Pakistan & The Karakoram Highway 7e 2008 (1741045428) .PDF (PDFDrive)
Pakistan & The Karakoram Highway 7e 2008 (1741045428) .PDF (PDFDrive)
Contents
Pakistan Highlights 4 Punjab 94
LAHORE 96
History 26 Drinking
Entertainment
115
116
Shopping 116
The Culture 41 Getting There & Away
Getting Around
117
119
AROUND LAHORE 120
Food & Drink 58 Wagah
Hiran Minar
120
120
Nankana 121
Environment 63 Sharakpur Sharif 121
Changa Manga
Wildlife Reserve 121
Islamabad SOUTHERN PUNJAB 121
& Rawalpindi 71 Bahawalpur 121
History 72 Lal Suhanra National Park 125
Orientation 72 Cholistan 125
Information 73 Bhong Mosque 126
Sights 77 Uch Sharif 127
Activities 80 Panjnad Head 128
Tours 80 Multan 128
Festivals & Events 80 Dera Ghazi Khan
(DG Khan) 133
Sleeping 80
Eating 83 Around Dera Ghazi Khan 134
Drinking 85 Harappa 134
Entertainment 85 Pakpattan 136
Shopping 85 Faisalabad 136
Getting There & Away 86 Lahore to Islamabad 137
Getting Around 87
AROUND ISLAMABAD
& RAWALPINDI 88 Balochistan 139
Margalla Pass 88 QUETTA 142
Taxila 88 History 142
Wah Gardens 90 Orientation 142
Hasan Abdal 90 Information 144
Murree & the Galis 90 Dangers & Annoyances 145
10 CONTENTS
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12
Destination Pakistan
Pakistan has been on the brink of being tourism’s ‘next big thing’ for more
years than we care to remember. It’s a destination that has so much to offer
visitors, from some of the highest and most spectacular mountain ranges
in the world to the architectural glories of the Mughal empire, and ancient
bazaars to soul-spinning musical mystics. But every time the country seems
to be gearing up to refresh the palates of travellers jaded with last year’s hip
destination, world media headlines send things off the rails – again.
No matter the attractions, tourism in Pakistan has always been some-
thing of a hard sell. A glance at the map shows the country living in
a pretty difficult region: always-unruly Afghanistan to one side, Iran
to another, and a border with India running through the 60-year-old
fault line of Kashmir. But since the events of 9/11, Western pundits
have increasingly been wondering if Pakistan isn’t just living in a tough
neighbourhood, it is the tough neighbourhood.
Pakistan and political stability have never been particularly happy bed-
fellows. President Pervez Musharraf, who seized power in a 1999 coup,
looked to have an unassailable position until relatively recently. Selling
himself as a bulwark against radical Islamism on one hand and the old cor-
rupt elites on the other, he turned himself into a key player in Washing-
ton’s ‘War on Terror’ and was rewarded with soft loans and military aid.
FAST FACTS In 2007, everything was thrown into disorder. An attempt to sack the
Population: 164,741,900 country’s chief justice resulted in a red-faced retreat in the face of mid-
(2007 estimate) dle-class protests. At the same time, domestic Islamists stepped up their
Population under 14: bloody campaigns in the wake of the deadly storming of Islamabad’s Red
36.9% Mosque. Pakistan’s army had already found itself fighting to a standstill
in the lawless Tribal Areas along the Afghan border, and later quelling
Adult literacy: 63% related violence in the Swat Valley. It signed the short-lived Waziristan
(men), 36% (women) Compact that negotiated a peace – of sorts – with Pakistani Taliban, but
Infant mortality rate: 68 ultimately showed that having once given official government sanction
per 1000 live births to such radicals, it was now holding a tiger by its tail.
Gross Domestic Product At publication time, it was anyone’s guess how Musharraf’s
per capita: US$2600 attempts to pull things together would play. The imposition of a state of
emergency curtailed the press and judiciary, and soon after being lifted,
External debt: 55%
the country was rocked by the assassination of Benazir Bhutto, recently
of GDP
returned from exile to take her place again in Pakistani politics. Such a high-
Unemployment rate: profile murder presaged a potentially very troubled future for Pakistan.
6.5% (plus substantial But against this background, there is another Pakistan, a world away
underemployment) from the headlines. Although conservative, Pakistanis are by nature a
Main exports: textiles welcoming and hospitable people to foreigners, trying to get by in the
(garments, cotton cloth, face of indifference from their government and occasional hostility from
yarn), rice, leather, sport- the outside world. High politics is of less interest than jobs and the cost
ing goods, carpets of cooking oil and flour. As such, travellers are usually met with genuine
interest and enthusiasm. The scams and hustle you might experience in
Main imports: petroleum
heavily travelled India are nowhere to be seen here. Instead, look forward
& petroleum products,
to spontaneously offered cups of tea and conversations about cricket.
machinery, chemicals,
You’ll feel like you have the country to yourself. Attractions that would
transportation equipment
have been splashed over the glossy pages of newspaper travel supple-
Ranking on UN Human ments are almost empty. While enthusiastic travel advice comes tinged
Development Index: 134 with official government travel advisories, you’ll need to keep one eye on
(out of 178) the news before booking your ticket – but once here, you’ll realise that
Pakistan really is one of the world’s best-kept travel secrets.
13
The Authors
SARINA SINGH Coordinating Author, Getting Started, Food & Drink,
Islamabad & Rawalpindi, Directory, Glossary
After finishing a business degree in Melbourne, Sarina bought a one-way
ticket to India where she completed a corporate traineeship with the Shera-
ton before working as a journalist. After four years in the subcontinent
she returned to Australia, pursued post-graduate journalism studies and
wrote/directed an award-nominated documentary that premiered at the
Melbourne International Film Festival. Sarina has worked on several dozen
Lonely Planet books and has written for many other publications including
National Geographic Traveler; further details at www.sarinasingh.com.
Getting Started
Apart from the usual challenges of subcontinental travel – the people-packed
public transport, tedious bureaucracy and crush of human and mechanical
traffic in urban hubs – Pakistan is a relatively straightforward country in
which to travel, although you should always keep informed about the latest
safety status – see p16.
Pakistani people are known for their hospitality towards visitors, although
solo women may feel more at ease travelling with a companion in the more
conservative regions (see p379). Unlike in neighbouring India, the tourism
industry here remains comparatively small. While this means many places
are less geared to foreign travellers, it also translates to exceedingly less
tourist hype. Indeed, compared with India, Pakistan has far fewer touts and
scams, less-rapacious taxi and autorickshaw drivers, and lacks the irksome
commercial hullabaloo found in many of India’s tourist centres.
In regards to pre-trip planning, make sure you give yourself a few weeks to
sort out immunisations, visas and other documents you may require. You will
derive greater benefit from your trip if you read up about Pakistan (especially
the religious and cultural framework) as much as possible beforehand. Doing
so will heighten your appreciation of the country’s extraordinary sights and
traditions, lower your chances of making a cultural faux pas, and better equip
you to hold more-informed conversations with locals.
WHEN TO GO
Climate is the key factor in deciding when and where to travel in Pakistan.
There are generally three seasons: cool (around October to February), hot
(around March to June) and wet/monsoon (around July to September).
IS IT SAFE?
At the time of writing Pakistan was in a state of political uncertainty, with
the country placed under a state of emergency – for further details read p34.
Given the thorny political climate, travellers are strongly urged to monitor
events in Pakistan and seek current advice about how safe it is to travel in
the country.
For political and tribal reasons there is restricted access to a number of
potentially volatile areas, which are either off limits altogether for foreign-
ers or require a permit, and possibly an armed guard, to visit them. Details
are provided in the regional chapters of this book; also see p369. If you are
unsure whether an area you intend visiting is a no-go zone, before setting
off always seek the most up-to-date advice from as many reliable sources as
you can, such as the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC)
and local authorities.
Always remember that safety issues are not static. Things can swiftly
change and it would be irresponsible of us to give prescriptive safety advice,
especially in an increasingly unpredictable world. The most judicious way
of making your journey through Pakistan as incident-free as possible is for
you to take the responsibility of keeping abreast of the latest safety status
of the region(s) you intend visiting. Apart from contacting the PTDC and
other relevant authorities, ways of doing this include regularly reading local
newspapers, garnering advice from locals and fellow travellers, and reading
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • C o s t s & M o n e y 17
TRAVEL LITERATURE
Three Cups of Tea, by Greg Mortenson and David Oliver Relin, relays a
courageous man’s odyssey to provide schooling, especially for girls, in
remote parts of Pakistan and Afghanistan, where fundamentalism often
feeds on poverty.
Kathleen Jamie’s Among Muslims is an engaging insight into the
Northern Areas, with a captivating window into facets of everyday life
usually off limits to male visitors.
18 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s lonelyplanet.com
INTERNET RESOURCES
Hi Pakistan (www.hipakistan.com) News and views, fashion, music, showbiz and more.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) As well as lots of handy links, there’s the popular Thorn
Tree forum, where you can exchange information with other travellers to Pakistan.
Online Newspapers (www.onlinenewspapers.com/pakistan.htm) Links to a wide range of
Pakistani newspapers including Dawn and Frontier Post.
Pakistan Railway (www.pakrail.com) National rail site: everything from train timings and seat
availability to freight rates and saloon rental.
Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC) (www.tourism.gov.pk) Official
government tourism site, with national travel-related fodder.
Pakistani Virtual Library (www.southasianist.info/pakistan) Has links to a variety of topics
including history, sport, trekking and even regional weather forecasts.
19
Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTES
UP THE KHYBER PASS & ALONG One to two weeks
THE GRAND TRUNK ROAD
This renowned mountain pass to Afghanistan conjures images of lawless,
gun-totin’ Pashtuns. The truth is that it’s perfectly safe – thanks to your
armed Afridi gunman – but it’s no less exciting for that.
Start in Pakistan’s cultural capital, Lahore (p96), with its Mughal archi-
tecture, tempting eateries and sights such as the Lahore Fort and Badshahi
Mosque. From Lahore join the rush along the Grand Trunk Rd through the
barren Salt Range (p138) to Islamabad and Rawalpindi (p71). Pause in Taxila
(p88) to see the wonders of Buddhist Gandhara on your way to pulse- It’s about 500km
quickening Peshawar (p190). A stroll through its Old City bazaars is an from Lahore to the
eye-opening essential. Organising a permit and armed guard is part of the
thrill of travelling up the Khyber Pass (p200). The official entrance to Khyber famed Khyber Pass,
Agency is at Jamrud Fort (p200). From here on houses are mini forts and via massive forts,
the road (and railway) climbs and winds into the Suleiman Range. The last Buddhist ruins,
main town before the border is Landi Kotal (p201), an erstwhile smugglers Pashtun bazaars
bazaar, still with a few gunshops. Here the working railway stops, though and the nation’s
the ruins of tracks, bridges and tunnels continue to the border. Your stop,
however, is just short of the border at Michni checkpoint (p201). capital.
NORTHERN
AREAS
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
Takht-i-Bahi
Michni Khyber
Checkpoint Pass
AZAD JAMMU
PESHAWAR & KASHMIR
Landi Kotal
Taxila ISLAMABAD
Ali Masjid Jamrud
Fort Rawalpindi
e
ang
tR
PUNJAB Sal
LAHORE
20 ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes
Kashgar
Kara
Kul
Lake
Tashkurgan
CHINA
Khunjerab
Chapursan Valley Pass
Sost (Afiyatabad)
Passu Shimshal
Valley
Karimabad
Gulmit
Shandur
Pass Minapin
Khunjerab
National Park
Gilgit
PAKISTAN
Indus
Kohistan Skardu
n
gha Con
trol
Ka alley Line
of
V
Mansehra
Abbottabad
Havelian
ISLAMABAD
Rawalpindi
ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes 21
NORTHERN
AREAS
NORTH-WEST
FRONTIER
PROVINCE
AZAD JAMMU
& KASHMIR
ISLAMABAD
PUNJAB
LAHORE
Wagah
Multan
QUETTA
Bahawalpur
Taftan Uch Sharif
BALOCHISTAN
SINDH
ARABIAN
SEA
22 I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d
G E
AN
R
H
S
U Ishkoman
K R A N G E
U R A J
D D U
N I N
I H Yasin
H Ri ver
iver
tuj
Teru Gh i zar R Gi
as
lgi
M
Khalti t R
Sor Laspur Barsat Phander Lake Punial ive
Chitral
r
Langar
Town Shandur Pass Valley
Kalasha (3810m) Gilgit
Ri ve r
Valleys
l
NORTHERN AREAS
itra
Ch
NORTH-WEST
FRONTIER
PROVINCE
AZAD JAMMU
& KASHMIR
I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d 23
NORTHERN
AREAS
Kalam
y
Valle
Madyan
Swat
Khwazakhela Besham
Shangla
Pass
Mingora KK
H
Saidu Sharif
NORTH-WEST
FRONTIER
PROVINCE
AZAD JAMMU
& KASHMIR
ISLAMABAD
PUNJAB
24 I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d
Chitral Gol
National Park
NORTHERN AREAS
Chitral Town
Kalasha
Valleys
Drosh
Naghar Fort
Lowari Pass
(3118m)
Dir Town
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
Chakdara
Malakand Pass
(1500m)
Tahkt-i-Bahi
Mardan
Pushkalavati Charsadda
Peshawar
AZAD JAMMU
& KASHMIR
ISLAMABAD
I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s 25
TAILORED TRIPS
WALKS ON THE WILD SIDE Three weeks/Gilgit to Karimabad
Pakistan’s Karakoram and Hindukush offer some of the most dramatic
trekking on earth. The treks in the Trekking chapter can be strung to-
gether in several combinations – see p332 for further itineraries. This
itinerary incorporates some of the best treks that are accessed from Gilgit
and Karimabad, popular hubs on the KKH.
Gilgit (p272) is a great base for launching into Baltistan, Diamir and
Nagyr, organising guides and for resting between treks. First head to
Skardu (p286) to tackle the easy, two-day trek out of Hushe (p293) to the
serene summer pastures of Humbrok (p362). Return to Skardu then Gilgit.
From Gilgit organise transport to Chirah
in the Bagrot Valley and from there start a Ultar
Diran
three-day return trek to the Diran Base Camp Rakaposhi Base Camp
Base Camp Humbrok
(p346). Again from Gilgit, head a short dis-
tance along the KKH to Minapin (p298), eas-
ily accessed from the KKH, and the start of
the magnificent trail to Rakaposhi Base Camp
(p351); a three-day return trek. North of
Minapin, Karimabad (p299) is another com-
fortable base for trekking. From the top of
Karimabad town you can take the short and
steep track up to the meadow below Ultar
(p353); here you can spend the night with a
grinding glacier before returning to espresso
coffee in Karimabad the following morning.
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restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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26
History
Both a nuclear power and important cricketing nation, Pakistan has existed
as an independent country for little more than 60 years, but has been play-
ing an important role in the historical epic of the Indian subcontinent for
millennia. It has been the birthplace of the world’s first urban civilisation,
home to one of the great flowerings of Buddhism, and cornerstone of the
Mughal empire. Born in 1947 as a homeland for Muslims, it has been a
frontline state in the Cold War and is currently a key location in the strug-
gle against violent Islamism. Understanding Pakistan’s past is essential to
Visit www.storyofpaki understanding its future trajectory.
stan.com for timelines
and short biographies of EARLY CIVILISATIONS
many of Pakistan’s key When the Europeans were dressed in animal skins and the USA was known
political figures. only to the native Indian tribes, the men and women who lived on the land
that is now Pakistan were part of one of the most sophisticated societies on
earth. The ancient Egyptians, who lived around the same time, may have
been better at building pyramids, but when it came to constructing cities,
the Indus people were well ahead.
Nothing was known of the Indus civilisation until the 1920s, when excava-
tions at Harappa and Moenjodaro revealed cities built of brick. Subsequent
research has shown that the Indus people flourished around 2500–1500 BC.
They had a population of roughly five million and a sophisticated bu-
reaucracy with standardised systems for weights and brick sizes. While the
evidence is sketchy, many scholars believe that a priestly elite governed the
There is an excellent Indus people.
introduction to the Indus The Indus civilisation probably declined due to the drying of the Indus
civilisation on www Valley. There followed centuries of economic decline and foreign conquest.
.harappa.com. Among The first to arrive were the Aryans, whose Vedic religion laid the basis for
other things, the site Hinduism as it is practised today. They were followed by Alexander the
has articles on the latest Great. When you travel in northern Pakistan and, in particular, places such
attempts by scholars to as the Kalasha valleys, you may notice people with relatively pale skin, fair
decode the Indus script. hair and blue eyes. According to popular theory these are the descendants
of Alexander the Great’s troops.
After Alexander, a series of imperial powers flexed their muscles in South
Asia. The Mauryas were notable for controlling virtually all the subcontinent
and promoting Buddhism. Taxila, one of Pakistan’s best-preserved Buddhist
sites, was founded by the Mauryans as a university. The Kushans followed
close on the Mauryans’ heels, entering from Afghanistan. They took the
Greek culture left behind by Alexander’s descendants and fused it with
the art of India to produce their sublime Gandharan art. For the first three
centuries AD, the Kushans held sway from Taxila to Kabul and left behind
a host of ruins, particularly in the Peshawar and Swat Valleys. Only one-third of Moen-
In AD 711 an Arab general, Mohammed bin Qasim, arrived in Sindh. He jodaro’s old city has been
and his 6000 cavalrymen were to have a major impact because they brought excavated. Exposure of
with them the religion of Islam. After the Arabs had made inroads from the the site to the elements
south, in the 11th century the Turkish rulers of Afghanistan, led by Mahmud has led to its severe
of Ghazni, brought the same message of Islam from the north. Muslims were deterioration.
then established as the ruling class, although it was not until the arrival of
the Mughal dynasty that there was a truly formidable Islamic government
able to leave a lasting architectural and cultural impression.
THE MUGHALS
The Mughals were the undisputed masters of the subcontinent through
the 16th and 17th centuries. Their empire was one of only three periods in
history during which the subcontinent has come under sustained, unified
rule. (The others to pull off this feat were the Mauryas and the British.) The
first Mughal emperor, Babur, used the traditional route to invade: from
Central Asia. Having taken Kabul he conquered Delhi in 1526. The dynasty
he founded endured for more than three centuries. The other great Mughal
emperors included Akbar (1556–1605), Shah Jahan (1627–58) and Aurangzeb
(1658–1707). Because they were Muslims, the Mughals remain a source of
great pride in Pakistan. Under Akbar and his son Jehangir, Lahore was the
capital of the empire, and remains home to some of the Muhgals’ greatest
architectural legacies, including the Badshahi Mosque, the Lahore Fort and
Jehangir’s Tomb. All combine the Mughals’ skill for working on a grand scale
and their great use of arches, domes, carvings and towers. Urdu was the court
While the Mughals are today most often celebrated for their artistic legacy, language of the Mughals.
they were also excellent administrators who managed to concentrate power Although the national
in the central government. Their sophisticated bureaucratic systems became language, it’s the mother
particularly highly developed under Akbar. He appointed officials on the tongue of less than
basis of merit rather than family rank. He also prevented the establishment 10% of the population.
of rival power bases by paying loyal officials in cash rather than land. While Pakistan’s courts work in
many of the Mughal rulers were hostile to their Hindu subjects, Akbar took English.
a different view. He saw that the number of Hindus in India was too great to
subjugate. Instead, he integrated them into his empire and allowed Hindus
to reach senior positions in the government and the military.
Like imperial powers before and after them, the Mughals became over-
stretched. By the time of Aurangzeb’s death, their empire had become so big
it was largely ungovernable. Slowly but steadily the Mughals’ power ebbed
away. Their administrative systems were weakened by debilitating and very
violent succession struggles and by the decadence of court life. Local power-
brokers in the provinces seized their opportunity and, complaining of Muslim
domination and too many taxes, mounted a series of armed rebellions. Faced
with these challenges, the Mughals increasingly became rulers only in name.
Technically, though, the Mughal empire existed right up until 1857, when the
British deposed the 19th and last Mughal ruler, Bahadur Shah II.
THE BRITISH
The first Britons to arrive in India were traders from the British East India
Company. They came by sea at the beginning of the 17th century and their
goal was not conquest but profit. Initially they restricted themselves to
business, doing deals with the Mughal emperors and local rulers. Gradually,
though, the relationship changed. In time British factories were established
For the latest news on and when faced with disputes they began to apply British rather than local
Pakistan take a look at law. As the profits grew, the traders became increasingly involved in local
www.dawn.com. Dawn, politics. Matters came to a head in 1757, when armed men fighting for
which is published in the British East India Company under Robert Clive clashed with the chief
Karachi, is the longest- (nawab) of Bengal, Siraj-ud-daula. That Clive won the encounter should
established English- have been of little surprise. Many of the nawab’s soldiers had been bribed
language newspaper in to throw away their weapons.
Pakistan. The British soon started behaving like imperialists, determined to take
territory. The first part of present-day Pakistan to come under British control
was Sindh in 1843. Next the British tackled the Sikh rulers from the rich and
fertile land of Punjab before moving on to the perennially ungovernable
North-West Frontier Province and Balochistan.
The first major challenge to British rule came in 1857, when much of north
and central India rose up against their imperial masters. The Indian Uprising
has variously been called the Sepoy Rebellion, the Great Mutiny and the
First War of Independence. The Indian troops rallied around the enfeebled
Mughal ruler Bahadur Shah, before finally being suppressed. The uprising
was a shocking, brutal affair and left deep scars on both sides.
A major consequence of the revolt was the abolition of the British East
India Company. The British crown imposed direct rule through its gov-
ernor general or viceroy, and Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India.
Significantly, the British made a compromise with the 565 princely rulers
who controlled 40% of the land on the subcontinent. Instead of demanding
that they surrender full sovereignty, the British allowed the princely rulers
to keep control of their internal affairs if they professed loyalty to the Crown
and surrendered all rights to conduct foreign or defence policy.
The British governed through an elite cadre of bureaucrats. Recruitment
to the Indian civil service was competitive and initially restricted to British
candidates. By 1910 a few Indians had been appointed to the civil service, a
development that reflected the gradual shift of power in India. At the start
of the 20th century, the demands for more self-governance were becoming
louder and the British started to make concessions. First, some Indian coun-
cillors were appointed to advise the viceroy. Indians were then given limited
Iqbal gave no name to his proposed nation. That was done by a student
at Cambridge University, Chaudhry Rahmat Ali, who suggested it be called
Pakistan. Taken as one word Pakistan means ‘Land of the Spiritually Clean
and Pure’. But it was also a sort of acronym standing for Punjab, Afghania
Shortly after Partition, (North-West Frontier Province), Kashmir, Sindh and Balochistan.
Mountbatten predicted By the late 1930s, Jinnah, who had previously argued for Hindu-Muslim
that East Pakistan would unity, was convinced of the case for Pakistan. At its annual session in Lahore
break away within a on 23 March 1940, the Muslim League formally demanded that the Muslim
quarter of a century. He majority areas in northwestern and northeastern India should be autonomous
was right, with one year and sovereign. With Congress strongly opposed, it was an issue only London
to spare. could resolve. The man given the task was Lord Louis Mountbatten, who was
appointed Viceroy of India in 1947. Shortly after arriving in Delhi he became
convinced that the demand for Pakistan would not go away and that, despite Freedom at Midnight
all its objections, Congress would accept it as the price for independence. describes how and
Creating two new independent nations out of one imperial possession was why the British left
not easy. Assets were divided, and a boundary commission appointed to de- the subcontinent. The
marcate frontiers. Cyril Radcliffe, a civil servant who had never visited India, authors, Larry Collins
bisected the complicated and deeply connected border areas in little over a and Dominique Lapierre,
month. British troops were evacuated and the military was restructured into examine the parts played
two forces. Civil servants were given the choice of joining either country. by Gandhi, Mountbatten,
As the moment of Independence approached, huge numbers of people Nehru and Jinnah. It
went on the move. Hindus, fearful of living in the new Pakistan, headed east. reads like a thriller.
So too did the Sikhs. In the period before the British extended their influence
to Punjab and Kashmir, the Sikhs had been the dominant power, controlling
territory right up to the Afghan border. By 1849 the British military had
defeated them and now, with Partition looming, they decided to move and
make their future in India. The Muslims, meanwhile, were also leaving their Sir Richard Attenbor-
villages and making for their new homeland. ough’s award-winning
It was the largest mass migration in modern times. Around eight million film Gandhi stars Ben
people gave up their jobs, homes and communities. Most travelled on foot Kingsley. It follows the
or by train and in doing so risked their lives. Many never made it, becoming life of the man who
victims of the frenzied violence triggered by Partition. The scale of the kill- advocated nonviolence as
ing was terrible: it’s estimated that up to a million people were butchered in the people of India tried
communal violence. Trains full of Muslims, fleeing westwards, were held up to rid themselves of their
and slaughtered by Hindu and Sikh mobs. Hindus and Sikhs fleeing to the British rulers.
east suffered the same fate. For those who crossed the rivers of blood that
separated the two new nations and survived, the feeling of relief was intense.
And on 14 August 1947, Pakistan and India achieved independence.
While the new leaders in India were able to pick up where the British left
off, their counterparts in Pakistan had to build state institutions from scratch.
The task was made all the more difficult because the one man in Pakistan
who could command unquestioning loyalty – Jinnah – died 13 months after
Independence. His successors were both incompetent and corrupt. It took
them nine years to pass Pakistan’s first constitution. When General Ayub The film Jinnah is
Khan took over in a coup in 1958, most Pakistanis were relieved that the Pakistan’s answer to
politicians were being kicked out of office. Gandhi. Many Pakistanis
grumbled when the
THE CREATION OF BANGLADESH role of Jinnah was given
At Independence, Pakistan was already a divided country, with Bengali East to the British actor
Pakistan cut off from the main body of West Pakistan by the great mass of Christopher Lee because
India. Tensions between the two parts were immediately significant. East he was better known for
Pakistan was more populous and ethnically homogenous as well as being playing Dracula.
poorer, having been cut off from the traditional Bengali capital of Calcutta
(now Kolkata). Even before Independence many Bengalis had argued that the
British should create two new Muslim countries. Pakistan’s new rulers, few of
whom were Bengalis, wanted a strong central government and just one na-
tional language – Urdu. The Bengalis insisted that Bengali should have equal
status and complained that the central government, the federal bureaucracy
and the main military establishments were all located in West Pakistan.
For General Niazi’s ver- The political party that best articulated the frustration and resentment felt
sion of why East Pakistan by many East Pakistanis was the Awami League, and in 1963 it elected a leader
split away, read The who would ultimately lead East Pakistan to independence. Sheikh Mujibur
Betrayal of East Pakistan. Rahman began by crystallising the Bengali’s demands into ‘Six Points’. He
Niazi admits no fault accepted that there should be one Pakistan but added that the federal govern-
and puts all the blame ment should be restricted to handling defence and foreign affairs and have no
on his military superiors. tax-raising powers. He said the two wings of Pakistan should have separate
Unconvincing history but currencies and East Pakistan should be allowed its own paramilitary force.
interesting detail. These demands were utterly unacceptable to West Pakistan, which be-
lieved that the Six Points would leave the centre with so little authority that a
united Pakistan could not survive. Despite long negotiations, a compromise
could not be found and by 1971 the tensions between East and West Pakistan
reached snapping point. On 25 March the military ruler in Islamabad, General
Yayha Khan, ordered his army to take military control of East Pakistan.
The Pakistani army was split in two. West Pakistani soldiers took to the
task of restoring order in East Pakistan with relish. But most of the East
Pakistani soldiers mutinied. Yayha believed that the civilian population in
East Pakistan would remain largely neutral. It didn’t. The Bengali population
stood behind Mujibur Rahman, who by this time had been arrested. The
West Pakistani troops responded by raping, murdering and even massacring
whole villages. Around half a million Bengalis were killed.
At first the West Pakistani army got the upper hand, not least because
the Bengali resistance fighters – the Mukti Bahini – suffered from a lack
of arms. A low-level struggle might have gone on for years had not India
decided to intervene. Initially, Delhi believed that the West Pakistani army
would be able to cow the East Pakistanis into submission. But as the resist-
ance continued, a consensus emerged in Delhi that an independent East
Many books on Kashmir Pakistan (Bangladesh) was not only in India’s interests but also achievable.
are hopelessly biased. For Half a million Indian troops were ordered into East Pakistan to support the
an objective account as to claim of Bengali nationalism.
why Kashmir has become India enjoyed complete air superiority, and on the ground could rely on the
a battleground between highly motivated Mukti Bahini (generally estimated at 100,000). Lieutenant
two nuclear rivals, read General Niazi, the Pakistani commander, never stood a chance. He was out-
Victoria Schofield’s numbered, outgunned and operating in territory with a hostile population.
Kashmir in Conflict. In December 1971 Niazi surrendered and Bangladesh was born.
MILITARY MISRULE
The two countries created from British India in 1947 went down quite
divergent routes. While India emerged as a robust democracy, Pakistan sat
Pakistan: Between Mosque under military rule for over half its existence. Pakistan was hampered by its
and Military by Husain comparatively weaker political and economic development at Independence,
Haqqani is a key work for and by the death of Jinnah the following year and his weak successors.
understanding the way The army has come to see itself as the defender of Pakistan’s honour, but
two key institutions have its record is far from glorious. If Pakistan is, as many Pakistanis believe, a
shaped modern Pakistani failed state, then the army must take a share of the blame. Consuming a dis-
politics. proportionate amount of government expenditure, and wielding significant
economic as well as political power, even in times of civilian rule the military
has interfered in foreign and domestic policy areas.
There have been four military rulers in Pakistan’s history. All were more
willing to grasp power than to give it up. The first was General Ayub Khan,
a Sandhurst-educated paternalist who believed the illiterate Pakistani masses
were not ready for Western-style democracy. After 11 years in power, he
Zulfi Bhutto of Pakistan by was forced out of office by mass protests in 1969. As a heavy drinker and
the American academic habitual womaniser, his successor, General Mohammed Yayha Khan, was
Professor Stanley hardly representative of the people he ruled. He offered hope to the nation by
Wolpert has become the organising Pakistan’s first-ever national elections. Widely accepted to have
standard work on the been the fairest that have ever occurred in the country, they asserted a Bengali
life of the country’s most political nationalism unacceptable to Yayha. His response was to send the
inspirational, complex tanks into East Pakistan in a bloody, yet unsuccessful war. India’s military
and, ultimately, flawed support for Bangladeshi independence led directly to Yayha’s downfall, and
political leader. a brief period of civilian government under Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto.
Bhutto was overthrown in 1977 (and later executed) by General Zia ul Haq.
If Yayha Khan was a bon vivant, Zia was a puritanical prude – and a disaster
for Pakistan. Propped up by American and Saudi largesse following the Soviet
invasion of Afghanistan, Zia grew the intelligence agency, Inter-Services
Intelligence (ISI), into one of the most powerful institutions in the country,
and an enabler of radical Islamism. On the domestic front, his most damaging
legacy was to impose his rigid, intolerant interpretation of Islam on Pakistan.
GLACIAL WARFARE
No assessment of the Pakistani armed forces’ military performance would be complete without
consideration of the most hostile of all its battlegrounds: the Siachen Glacier in Kashmir. Some
of the forward posts are located at a bone-chilling 6000m above sea level. Temperatures drop to
-50ºC and blizzards can exceed 160km/h. The air is so thin that the artillery shells that the two
sides lob at each other follow unpredictable trajectories in the violent winds. In some places the
opposing troops are just 300m away from each other but the extreme cold claims more lives
than any fighting.
However brave the men who fight on Siachen may be, there is no escaping the fact that
they are engaged in a futile and outrageously expensive battle. It is estimated that both sides
commit over half a million US dollars to the conflict each day. Demilitarisation of Siachen is one
of the key sticking points of negotiations over Kashmir, with Pakistan refusing to give up its
(literally) high ground.
DOMESTIC TENSIONS
Domestic politics has undergone many challenges since Pakistani
The Siachen Glacier is the
Independence, irrespective of whether the leader of the day arrived through
highest battlefield on
the ballot box or by a coup. Despite the unifying banner of Islam, many of
earth. Pakistan and India
the deepest problems have arisen from different ethnic groups competing
have fought amid the
for a slice of political and economic power.
crevasses and avalanches
Of the five major ethnic groups in Pakistan (Punjabis, Pashtuns, Sindhis,
since 1984.
Baloch and Mohajirs), the Punjabis have the upper hand. Theirs is the richest
and most populous province and provides most of the army’s officer corps.
All the other national groups routinely complain of Punjabi dominance.
Apart from the Bengalis, who achieved independence in 1971, the most
sustained campaign of ethnic violence has come from the most unlikely
source: the nine million Mohajirs. In 1947 they were among Pakistan’s
keenest advocates. Most headed for the capital, Karachi, to secure official
government posts. Their impact on the city was enormous. By 1951 the na-
tive Sindhi community had been completely outnumbered; just 14% of the
city’s population spoke Sindhi, as opposed to 58% who spoke the Mohajirs’
language, Urdu.
Gradually, Pakistan’s traditional inhabitants reasserted themselves and
many Mohajirs were forced out of their government jobs. By the 1980s
the Mohajirs’ dreams of forging a new Islamic nation had been replaced
by bitter disillusionment expressed in increasingly militant politics. The
Mohajirs’ political party, the Mohajir Quami Movement (MQM), has always
denied any involvement in bloodshed, but there is no doubt that the conflict
between the Mohajirs and the Sindhis did turn violent. At the height of the
troubles in the 1980s and early 1990s, Karachi became a byword for ethnic
violence. Pakistan’s central government did not make a serious attempt to
tackle the MQM until 1995, when the army launched a clampdown. It was
a brutal campaign with many extrajudicial killings. The MQM has been
forced into relative quiescence ever since, although violence again erupted
in 2007 with a murderous attack on a political demonstration, allegedly by
MQM supporters.
Preoccupied by their struggle with the Mohajirs, the Sindhis have always
been too weak to threaten the Pakistani state and make an effective demand
for independence. That is not to say they have entirely given up on the idea.
In 1983, for example, armed Sindhi nationalists took control of some small
towns and railway lines in Sindh, but the army, using helicopter gunships,
was soon able to disperse them.
Baloch nationalists have shown greater determination. Many Baloch never
wanted to join Pakistan in the first place. When the British departed, Kalat
(the largest of four princely states located in Balochistan) immediately de-
clared its independence. The new Pakistani government used troops to bring Afghanistan’s dispute
Kalat into line and on several occasions since then the army has used force to over the Durand Line
suppress armed revolts in Balochistan. The most significant began in 1973 meant it was the only
after Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto dismissed Balochistan’s provincial government. country to vote against
The fighting lasted four years and the army had to deploy no fewer than Pakistan’s accession to
80,000 troops. Coming so soon after the loss of Bangladesh, it was a battle the UN in 1947.
the Pakistan army had to win, which they did in bloody style. The recent ex-
ploitation of Balochistan’s gas reserves has prompted a resurgence of Baloch
attempts to gain political and economic autonomy, a movement that the
Pakistan government has again sought to solve by purely military means.
In the run-up to Independence, Pashtun nationalists opposed the creation
of Pakistan even more strongly than the Baloch. Their demand for their own
land called Pukhtoonkhwa (sometimes also referred to as Pashtunistan) is
not without historical justification. Before the British arrived the Pashtuns
lived as one nation. In 1893 the British divided the Pashtuns by drawing
the Durand Line, which today constitutes the border between Afghanistan
and Pakistan.
The strength of Pashtun nationalism has diminished in large part because
of the Pashtuns’ relatively strong representation in Pakistan’s central institu-
tions. While the Tribal Areas have been left to stagnate (and become a haven
for violent Islamism), the Pashtuns have been particularly active migrants
within Pakistan. The establishment of a large Pashtun community in Karachi,
for example, means many Pashtun families have a direct interest in the sta-
bility and continued existence of the Pakistani state. Despite having had the
strongest national movement in 1947, the Pashtuns have never presented a
THE BOMB
In May 1998 in Balochistan’s Chagai Hills, a series of nuclear tests confirmed Pakistan’s mem-
bership of the world’s most exclusive and dangerous club – countries with nuclear weapons.
It was an extraordinary achievement for a poverty-stricken country in which around half the
population is illiterate.
Pakistan had been obsessing about the bomb since the mid-1960s, when Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto
had declared: ‘If India builds the bomb, we will eat grass or leaves; even go hungry, but we will
get one of our own.’ Bhutto coined the phrase ‘Islamic Bomb’ to capture the idea, reflecting his
aspiration that his nuclear weaponry would be the pride of the Muslim world. India’s first nuclear
test in 1974 sparked the race in earnest, and there were national celebrations when Pakistan was
finally able to match its neighbour and rival: monuments in the shape of the Chagai Hills and
Shaheen-II missile are features of most major cities. International criticism was sharp, however,
and brought into even keener relief when the two countries stood on the brink of war over
Kashmir in 1999.
The father of Pakistan’s bomb is the nuclear scientist AQ Khan, operating from the Kahuta plant
near Islamabad with the aid of Chinese expertise. There was great alarm when it was revealed in
2004 that he had been the centre of a nuclear proliferation network, passing weapons technology
to Libya, North Korea and Iran, with tacit government agreement. Pakistan’s reaction to inter-
national concern was merely muted, placing AQ Khan under house arrest, but quietly lifting his
restrictions when the furore had died down. Despite international pressure, Pakistan has refused
the International Atomic Energy Agency access to Khan to question him on proliferation.
The Culture
The concept of Pakistani culture is a relatively new one, born with the creation
of the country in August 1947. But the culture itself dates back centuries,
through the ancient Indus Valley civilisation, the presence of Hindu empires,
the introduction of Islam and a series of Muslim empires (including the
Mughal empire), and the colonial period. Since Independence, Pakistan’s
ethnic diversity, the modernisation process, the re-emergence of Islamic
fundamentalism and the country’s gradual integration into global society
have combined to create a rich and diverse culture.
LIFESTYLE
The family is the central unit of daily life in Pakistan. Men are considered the
heads of the family unit, and in the vast majority of cases are the breadwin-
ners. With working life dominated by men, the public sphere is overwhelm-
ingly masculine. In contrast, private family life is often dominated by women,
who bring up the children and run the household. Traditionally, extended
families have been the norm with several generations living together, but
with the drift towards urbanisation in full swing in Pakistan, nuclear families
are becoming ever more common.
Marriages are typically arranged, and are seen as much as the joining of
two families as two individuals. Families meet and investigate a number of
42 T H E C U LT U R E • • P o p u l a t i o n lonelyplanet.com
prospective spouses for their children with a view to selecting the best and
most appropriate person. Love marriages, while increasingly acceptable
among middle classes, are often seen as scandalous among more traditional
families, where the ‘shame and honour’ nature of society seeks to maintain
the ‘purity’ of the family’s women.
Dowry is an important part of many Pakistani marriages. Parents of the
Arranged marriages
bride give her money or assets such as jewellery and household goods to take
have met the online
into the new family. The often high cost of dowries is a reason frequently cited
world with matrimonial
for delaying marriage, as it can easily become a debt trap for lower income
websites such as www
groups. The cost of dowry is also a key factor in the popularity of marriages
.shaadi.com serving
between first cousins, as it keeps wealth within the family.
Pakistan’s middle-class
Pakistan’s diverse Islamic traditions lead to different interpretations of
singles.
customs, which lead to variations in the way families live and operate. In the
more orthodox and conservative traditions (tribalised Pashtuns for example),
women may be forbidden from working outside the family home or even
being seen by men they are not related to. In public, a burka (a long gown
covering the face and shoulders) may be worn. Education is not seen as a
priority for such women, whose key responsibility is raising children.
At the other end of the spectrum are families that subscribe to a more
moderate, progressive interpretation of Islam. Women in such families do
not observe purdah (the custom among some Muslims of keeping women
in seclusion), and there is little or no emphasis on following the traditional
Islamic dress code. Once educated, they work in areas of their choice. These
families may, however, still hold some traditional views about women and
family life; having educated their daughter, they may still insist that she mar-
ries a person of the family’s choosing. Most Pakistani families fall somewhere
between these positions.
Beyond the family, society frequently operates on the level of clans (bi-
While primary education
radaris for Punjabis, or Pashtun khels). Clans are hierarchical structures
is free in Pakistan, the
consisting of chiefs and members; chiefs take care of the needs of their
cost of textbooks can put
group, including employment, and offer mediation and advice, receiving
school out of reach for
loyalty and subservience in return. During elections, tribal chiefs frequently
the poorest Pakistanis,
decide who to vote for and the members of the tribe do so en bloc for the
helping fuel the boom
selected candidate. When there are feuds between tribal chiefs, members of
in madrasahs (Islamic
each tribe are expected to side with their respective leader. Clans are either
colleges), most of which
a subset of a tribe or an extended blood lineage group that traces its history
offer financial support
to some common origin.
to pupils.
Unlike in India, there is not such a clearly defined caste system in Pakistan.
Castes are associated with professions. People are classified, for example, as
traders, barbers and shoemakers, but membership of a caste does not relegate
someone to a specific status for life.
These traditional structures are changing, with clan ties often weakening
as many families move away from their old rural homes towards the cities.
Further challenges face different parts of society. In the Pashtun Tribal Areas,
increased radicalisation by Islamists threatens traditional hierarchies by force
of arms, while in Punjab the biradaris have become more significant on the
political stage in lobbying for their communities.
POPULATION
Home to an estimated 164 million people, Pakistan is the sixth most populous
country in the world. It’s a rapidly growing and young nation, having more
than quintupled its population since Independence in 1947. Around half of
all Pakistanis live in fertile Punjab, while just 5% live in vast Balochistan (over
40% of the country’s area). Agriculture, still the backbone of the economy,
accounts for such an uneven spread, although as elsewhere in the world,
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • P o p u l a t i o n 43
Dress Matters
The way in which you dress is going to have a profound impact on how you are perceived by
locals. Revealing as little flesh as possible is the way to go for both women and men. Long,
loose, nonrevealing garments should be worn by both sexes. One recommended option for
both men and women is the shalwar kameez (traditional tunic-and-trouser combination), which
can be easily (and cheaply) tailormade or bought at local markets. Women should always have
a scarf handy to cover their head and chest when appropriate (for comprehensive information
about what women should wear see p381). Needless to say, public nudity is completely taboo,
and swimwear is only acceptable at public or hotel swimming pools. Women should seek advice
from relevant regional tourist offices about appropriate swimwear at beaches; this could range
from knee-length shorts and T-shirts to a shalwar kameez.
Religious Etiquette
Places of worship are of enormous spiritual significance and visitors should show respect by dress-
ing and acting appropriately. Some places may not permit foreigners or women to enter (if you’re
unsure, ask someone). Remove your shoes before entering (don’t forget to tip the shoeminder
Rs 3 to 5 when retrieving them) and, once on site, never step over any part of someone’s body
or walk right in front of someone praying.
Always make it a point to be respectfully dressed when visiting a place of worship – foreign
men have caused offence in the past by failing to do so. The key is for men to not wear reveal-
ing clothes such as shorts or singlet tops, or dirty or ripped clothing. Women must cover their
heads at all mosques and gurdwaras (Sikh temples); men usually have to only cover their heads
at gurdwaras.
Loud and intrusive behaviour is not on and neither are displays of affection or kidding around.
Don’t smoke – note that tobacco of any kind is prohibited at gurdwaras in Pakistan – and be
sure to observe any photography restrictions (ask somebody if you’re unsure).
urbanisation accounts for major population movement. Thirty years ago over
two-thirds of people lived in rural areas compared to the cities, a proportion
that has now completely reversed. Although all cities have grown, Karachi
in particular continues to suck in migrants in vast numbers, its population
of 14 million growing by nearly 5% a year.
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Owing to its position on old trade and invasion routes between India,
Central Asia and the Middle East, Pakistan is a kaleidoscope of peoples
and languages. The major groups are Punjabis, Pashtuns, Sindhis, Mohajirs
and Baloch. Other groups worth noting are the Brahui, Kashmiris, Kalasha
On current growth rates, and the small nationalities that make up the mountainous patchwork of
Pakistan’s population the Northern Areas, such as the Balti, Wakhi, Gujar and Burusho. Afghan
is expected to top 217 refugees make up a significant minority.
million by 2020. Melding such diverse groups into one people has proved a major chal-
lenge for independent Pakistan. The official national language of Urdu is the
mother tongue for less than one in 10 Pakistanis, and despite the unifying
banner of Islam, ethnic nationalism plays its role in contemporary politics.
Punjabis
The Punjabis are the biggest ethnic group in Pakistan, and have dominated
Pakistan’s bureaucracy and military since Independence. Punjabis have
historically identified themselves in terms of their qaum – a clan or tribal af-
filiation based on descent and occupation, like caste but without the religious
overtones – and still do, particularly in rural areas. Many tribes traditionally
followed a single occupation, which gave the qaum its name and its general
position in society. The concept of qaum is inextricably linked to the big
landowning families that hold great sway in Punjab.
According to the 1998 Punjabi tradition makes much of the idea of reciprocity, at least on the
census, 43.4% of the male side. A Punjabi’s brother is his friend, and his friend is his brother,
total population is below and in principle all share access to one another’s resources (eg money or
the age of 15 years, a connections), resulting in a strong sense of community based on kinship
picture similar to other and communal needs.
developing states with
high population growth. Pashtuns
Pakistan’s second-largest ethnic group are the Pashtuns, who live in North-
West Frontier Province (NWFP) and northern Balochistan, as well as most
of eastern and southern Afghanistan. Some Pashtuns claim descent from the
lost tribes of Israel. Traditionally conservative, with a strict tribal structure
and moral code of Pashtunwali (see p190), the Pashtuns are celebrated for
their martial heritage. The British Raj and Pakistani army alike have seen fit
to swell their ranks with Pashtun fighters.
Pashtuns in NWFP belong to around two dozen tribes and, within these,
to khel (clans). Clan membership is related to land ownership; one who
loses his land is no longer treated as a full member of the community.
Maliks (tribal chiefs) arise by virtue of age and wisdom, backed up by a jirga
(council) of elders.
The Tribal Areas are the Pashtuns’ heartland, and are the largest autono-
mous tribal area in the world. Underdeveloped and wary of government
Around 80% of Afghan
control, Pashtuns here look less towards Islamabad than their kin across
refugees in Pakistan are
the Afghan border. Repeated governments have sought to diffuse this eth-
Pashtun.
nic nationalism (and the concept of ‘Pashtunistan’ often touted by Afghan
Pashtuns) by encouraging Pashtun Islamism instead.
Baloch
The Baloch (or Baluch) of southeastern Pakistan are a mix of nomads and
settled farmers. Tribal structure is very important in Baloch society, with
a hakim (leader) of a family holding great sway over his ‘court’ of herders,
farmers and tenant farmers. Traditionally hakims offered booty or property
rights in return for support in battle; nowadays various favours are traded
for votes. The hard, isolated nature of Balochistan has meant that Balochis
have always been a proudly independent people – a fact that the government
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • P o p u l a t i o n 45
Sindhis
This group has perhaps the most thoroughly mixed ethnic origins of all
groups in Pakistan. Sindhis identify strongly with their culture, which sur-
vives mainly in rural areas of Sindh province and is characterised by original-
ity in sports (at melas – fairs – and malakhanas – wrestling festivals), the arts
(pottery and glazed tiles, silver jewellery, textiles and embroidery), music (at
births, marriages and seasonal celebrations) and folklore.
Most of Sindh’s educated middle class before Partition were Hindus, and
their mass departure in 1947 had a traumatic effect on Sindhis’ collective
self-image. Present-day Sindhis tend to see themselves as under-represented
in public life, although the frequently ruling Bhutto family are Sindhi. Sindhi
language has been used by the locals for administrative purposes for decades,
and has a rich literary tradition.
Mohajirs
After Partition about seven million Mohajirs – an ethnically diverse group The mammoth task of
of Muslim, Urdu-speaking immigrants (mohajir means refugee) – moved surveying Pakistan’s
to Pakistan, mostly to Sindh. Mohajirs now outnumber Sindhis in their population is next due in
own province, and make up two-thirds of Karachi’s population. For a long the 2008 census.
time they dominated Pakistan’s administrative structures, especially while
Karachi was the capital of the country. However, this changed with the build-
ing of Islamabad, leading to resentment and a cycle of anger and violence.
Mohajirs founded the Mohajir Quami Mahaz (MQM; Refugee People’s
Movement), which has become Sindh’s key political player, helped in part
by the sympathies of Pervez Musharraf (Pakistan’s fourth military ruler) –
himself a Mohajir.
Kalasha
The non-Muslim Kalasha live a peaceful but marginal existence in three val-
leys southwest of Chitral town in NWFP. Linguists think they’re descendants
of Indo-Aryans who overran the region in the 2nd millennium BC, although
Kalasha founding legends point to the troops of Alexander the Great as their
ancestors – a fact they claim is borne out by their European features and tra-
dition of wine-making. Muslims called them kafirs (nonbelievers) and their
46 T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n lonelyplanet.com
land Kafiristan. By the 19th century the Kalasha, perhaps 50,000 strong, had
been pushed into the higher valleys of the southern Hindukush.
British control came as a relief from the worst treatment by Chitralis, who
considered the Kalasha lowly and once sold many into slavery. But discrimi-
nation and Islamic pressure continue, and most prefer spartan agrarian lives
to development from outside. For more about the Kalasha see p228.
For more on the peoples
of the Karakoram High- Afghan Refugees
way, see p239. The Soviet invasion and occupation of Afghanistan in the 1980s re-
sulted in an influx into Pakistan of over three million Afghan refugees –
three quarters of them women and children. Two-thirds settled in NWFP,
and a quarter in Balochistan, either in refugee camps or in cities. Pakistanis
and their government initially responded with traditional Muslim hospi-
tality, but their collective generosity was soon worn thin by the resulting
inflation, competition for jobs and proliferation of weapons.
A new generation of Afghan refugees has now grown up in Pakistan.
Some of them have managed to get Pakistani identity cards and become
integrated into the mainstream, although most live in difficult conditions
and face regular discrimination and a precarious legal status. Since the fall
of the Taliban many have returned to Afghanistan with the assistance of
the UN High Commission for Refugees, but the continued instability in
that country, and the roots that many Afghans have put down over two
The term ‘Islam’ means decades, have meant that around two million remain in Pakistan – the
‘surrender’ and believers second largest refugee population in the world.
undertake to surrender
to the will of Allah RELIGION
(God). The will of Allah Islam is the main religion of Pakistan, and driving force behind its crea-
is revealed in the Holy tion during Partition in 1947. Less than 4% of Pakistanis follow other
Quran. faiths, split roughly evenly between Christianity and Hinduism, with a
small number of Sikhs and others.
Sufism
Existing parallel to mainstream Islam, Sufism (Islamic mysticism) adheres
to the main principles of the religion but emphasises a need to understand
the real essence of Islam and not be restricted to formal manifestations
of the religion. Sufism was the main avenue through which Islam spread Many Pakistani names
throughout the Indian subcontinent and although radical Islam tends to are taken from the
grab the headlines, the tolerance of Sufism remains far closer to the tradi- Quran and have biblical
tions of many Pakistanis. equivalents, such as
Sufism finds its expression in the continued belief in the role of pirs Suleiman (Solomon),
(religious teachers) and membership of tariqas (Sufi orders). Pirs are the Yusuf (Joseph), Musa
closest thing that Islam gets to the concept of a saint, something that more (Moses), Isa (Jesus), Daud
orthodox Muslims find suspiciously close to idolatry. Nevertheless, urs (the (David) and Adam.
death anniversaries of pirs) are widely attended by ordinary people. Attending
a Sufi shrine is a fascinating insight into Pakistani Islam. Prayers are offered
to the pir for intercession on a particular matter (the conception of a child
for example), often accompanied by the eating of a pinch of salt or earth
from the grave. Having made their prayers, attendees then turn away from
the grave to pray towards Mecca in the usual manner.
Sufi rituals are often accompanied by music, trancelike rhythms where
lines from the Holy Quran and the many names of Allah are recited, aiming
to induce an ecstatic feeling whereby the participant’s heart opens directly
to the divine. The Shrine of Baba Shah Jamal in Lahore (p104) is the best
place to see such amazing spiritual activity.
WOMEN IN PAKISTAN
The legal system of Pakistan formally acknowledges the equal rights that
women hold under Islam: women can vote, contest elections, own property
and make their own choices as citizens. But in reality, the position of many
women is that of second-class citizen. For most families, a boy baby is
preferable to a girl, and boys often receive preferential treatment. Access to
‘Pakistani education is limited for girls and women: women’s literacy is about half that
women of men’s, a number that plummets in the most traditional areas of NWFP or
have re- Punjab. Government attempts to improve things are slow, although women
now account for around one-third of all university graduates.
sponded to The legal marriage age is 16, but marriages following puberty are not un-
discrimina- common in rural areas. The practice of watta satta (where siblings of one fam-
tion by ily are married off to the siblings of another family) sees women exchanged as
wives between two families. Once married, women are expected to follow the
claiming wishes of the husband and his family (notably her mother-in-law). Domestic
their rights violence (both physical and psychological) is common; Human Rights Watch
as human estimated in 1999 that the domestic violence rate was as high as 90%.
Women are largely looked upon as property and symbols of a family’s
beings, honour, while men are the custodians of this honour. This belief has led
citing both to the practice of honour killings, where a man kills a woman in the family
Islamic because he feels that his honour has been compromised – the cause could be
anything from her smiling at another man to having an illicit relationship.
law and in- Women may be given as brides to restore a family’s honour. In the most
ternational extreme cases, local families have ordered the public raping of a woman
protocols’ as punishment against a family. While very rare, such events have brought
widespread public and political condemnation, although convictions against
perpetrators are often slow to follow.
Against this backdrop, it would be wrong to see women as passive players.
Pakistani women have responded to discrimination by claiming their rights
as human beings, citing both Islamic law and international protocols such as
the UN Convention for Elimination of Discrimination against Women.
The Women’s Action Forum (WAF) in Pakistan played a major role in
campaigning against the Hudood Ordinance passed by General Zia ul Haq
in 1984, which saw women accused and jailed for years on mere accusation
of adultery by a former husband or a suspicious relative. Women who be-
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • E c o n o m y 49
came pregnant as a result of rape were meted out the same treatment on the
grounds that their pregnancy was evidence of them exceeding the religious
limits of modesty. The WAF continues to work for women’s rights.
Islamic feminists refer to Islamic practices and the rights of women en-
shrined in the Quran and Prophetic practices as a way of forcing progress,
noting both the instruction to equally educate both sexes, and that the
Prophet Mohammed’s wife was a notable businesswoman of her day. Between
these two extremes are a number of women’s groups that combine secular
and Islamic ideas to target discrimination.
The Pakistani government has an ambivalent attitude towards women’s
rights. In 1988 Benazir Bhutto notably became the first Muslim female prime
minister in the world, providing a great beacon of inspiration. Even she,
however, shrunk from repealing Zia’s Hudood Ordinance, despite pressure
from women’s groups. Attempts to bring in legislation against honour kill-
ings has similarly foundered on indifference (or worse) from parliament,
despite President Musharraf announcing his support, and at the same time
reserving more seats for women in parliament.
The position of women in Pakistan often relies very much on where
you’re standing – whether that’s looking in vain for women on the streets
in the small towns of NWFP, or passing the fashionable women of Karachi
and Lahore.
ECONOMY
Compared to the Indian economic powerhouse across the border, Pakistan’s
economy appears sluggish, although the economic outlook is slowly im-
proving. When Musharraf seized power, the nation was in a truly parlous
financial state and on the verge of defaulting on loans to international
creditors. Stabilising Pakistan’s economy could be said to be one of the
key achievements of Musharraf’s military regime. The process hasn’t been
without controversy. Musharraf’s reliance on huge amounts of aid and loans
50 T H E C U LT U R E • • E c o n o m y lonelyplanet.com
from the USA for being a public partner in the ‘War on Terror’ have laid
him open to great unpopularity at home, especially as the price of staples
like flour, oil and rice have crept ever upwards.
New direct trade links
With Pakistan’s rapidly growing population, the economy would have to
with India began in late
perform miracles just to stand still in terms of job creation. Although official
2007, with the hope of
unemployment stands at around 6.5%, the figure masks the large numbers
providing a spur to the
who are casually or underemployed. The rate of unemployment is higher in
Pakistani economy.
urban areas than in rural regions. Half of Pakistan’s population exists below
the poverty line, while half the country’s wealth is concentrated in the richest
15% of households. The poorest fifth of the nation share around 5%. These
extreme inequalities directly impact upon daily life. The rich live a life of lux-
ury in large houses with servants, and their children go to expensive private
schools. The poor – who rely disproportionately on informal sector employ-
ment – have little access to educational and health facilities. The government
initiated poverty-reduction plans, but the situation has not improved.
Poverty particularly impacts on children, and Pakistan’s Federal Bureau
of Statistics puts the number of child workers at over three million, a quarter
of whom are girls. Nearly two-thirds of these children are employed in the
agriculture sector, although they are often found in intricate manufacturing
jobs like stitching footballs and weaving carpets. Children often work long,
unpaid hours, or in exchange for food and shelter. In many cases, parents
borrow money and the children work to repay the loan in kind. These chil-
dren are usually unable to gain access to education, a fact that keeps them
locked into poverty as they enter adulthood. Child prostitution (although
illegal) is not uncommon.
At the other end of the scale, the military has ruled the roost economically
as well as politically. As well as sucking up 25% of Pakistan’s national budget,
the armed forces are big players in business, owning companies operating in
fields as diverse as construction and banking to making bread and breakfast
cereals. It’s estimated that the military has private assets worth around US$10
billion, although many of the business are actually poorly run – and receive
regular million-dollar bail-outs from the government. On retirement, senior
officers are frequently given generous land grants, further entrenching the
military’s economic power.
Corruption
Pakistan’s endemic corruption consistently scores high marks in Tran-
sparency International’s reports on global corruption. Historically, giving
gifts to those in positions of authority was part of the subcontinental tradi-
tion; it continued after Independence in 1947. Bureaucrats accepted bribes to
approve projects that could assist certain business families. Military officials
siphoned off money while signing defence contracts with external suppli-
ers. Even ordinary public servants charged small sums to do the tasks they
were already paid to do. Members of the police force would levy a ‘charge’
on taxi and autorickshaw drivers in exchange for ignoring violations of
traffic laws.
BEGGARS
The poverty problem accounts for the rising number of beggars, especially in Pakistan’s urban
centres; however, beggars are not as prevalent as in neighbouring India. Whether you give some-
thing or not is up to you. The giving of alms (zakat) is one of the pillars of Islam, although you
may decide your money is of better use if donated to a charitable institution such as the Edhi
Foundation (see the boxed text, p161).
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • E c o n o m y 51
with the perception that it has been selective in its investigations, targeting
mainly retired military officials.
MEDIA
The press played a major role in mobilising support for Pakistan in the
1940s, but after Independence it came under heavy scrutiny and regula-
tion. The government controlled the press for many years, raising concerns
among audiences about bias; many people tuned into the BBC for reliable
Pakistan has over 26 news. The situation changed during the 1990s: a number of new magazines
TV stations. President and newspapers were given permission to operate by the governments of
Musharraf allowed the both Benazir Bhutto and Nawaz Sharif, and independent TV channels
licensing of so many in slowly started up. This has turned into a flood with the rise of cheap
1999, when he realised satellite stations and the internet. Pakistan now has a lively media, with a
Pakistanis were getting variety of competing voices all shouting to be heard, reflecting the diversity
their news via Indian and tensions of Pakistani society.
satellite TV. Two major media empires dominate the scene: the Jang group (publish-
ing Urdu Daily Jang, and English daily The News) and the Nawa-i-Waqt
group (publishing Urdu daily Nawa-i-Waqt and English daily The Nation).
They broadly represent two ends of the spectrum: the Jang group is more
progressive, the latter more conservative.
Pakistan TV (PTV) and Radio Pakistan (also known as Pakistan
Broadcasting Corporation – PBC) are still controlled by the government,
and PTV has also started a world service, PTV World. But the launch
of United Arab Emirates–based TV networks with strong Pakistani par-
ticipation, such as ARY Gold and Geo TV, has provided people with
new, prompt and varied coverage of domestic and international issues.
Given the satellite and cable networks operated by the private sector,
access to these news outlets extends to a large majority of the coun-
try’s population. Local stations like Khyber TV in NWFP broadcast in
regional languages.
The state of emergency of late 2007 showed a shadow of times past with
much independent media temporarily banned by the government, until
external and domestic pressure forced a backdown. For now, the genie
doesn’t show any inclination to get back in the bottle.
ARTS
Literature
As in much of the surrounding region, Pakistan’s rich literary tradition
elevates poetry over prose. Love is the eternal theme, celebrated most
The Peshawar Museum highly in the classical ghazal form of rhyming couplets. Here, an unat-
(p194) holds the largest tainable and often illicit love is most often written about, an allegorical
collection of Gandharan device dwelling on the heart’s separation from its divine creator. The Sufi
art in the world. influence on these poems is central to their identity, and goes far beyond
classical Urdu. The 18th-century poets Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai and Bulleh
Shah wrote on similar themes in Sindhi and Punjabi respectively and are
still revered, along with the Pashto poets from the 17th century, Khushal
Khan Khattak and Rahman Baba (claimed equally as national poets by the
Afghans). Rahman Baba’s tomb in Peshawar (p194) remains a good place
to hear recitals and Sufi music.
Poetry helped forge modern Pakistan’s identity. The poet Allama
Mohammed Iqbal (1877–1938) was one of the first to suggest that a sepa-
rate Muslim state be created from British India, and his tomb is a national
monument in front of the Badshahi Mosque in Lahore (p103). Later, Faiz
Ahmed Faiz (1911–84) used poetry to question the lack of democracy and
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 53
It’s Islam and the Mughals that left Pakistan its greatest architectural
heritage, in their grand fusion of Persian and Indian styles. Lahore, the
Mughal capital under Akbar and Jehangir, is a treasure house of Mughal
architecture, from the imposing Lahore Fort (p102) and Badshahi Mosque
(p103), to the formal open spaces of the Shalimar Gardens (p108) and
Jehangir’s Tomb (p108).
The British later fused Mughal ideas with high Victorian Gothic concepts
to create a unique subcontinental building style. This Mughal-Gothic or
British Raj style can be still be seen across the country, from the Mall in
Pashtun architecture is Lahore (p106) with the Punjab University and Lahore Museum (Kipling’s
defined by the qala, a ‘Wonder House’), to Peshawar’s Museum and Islamia College (p194 and
fortified house that’s p194 respectively) and the buildings of Saddar in Karachi (p166).
more like a castle – Since Independence, architecture in Pakistan has largely followed Western
essential in communities styles, although architects found plenty to play with in designing the new cap-
where clan loyalties and ital, Islamabad. Some new mosques have been particularly daring and mod-
blood feuds run deeply. ern, such as the Faisal Mosque in Islamabad (p77) and the Defence Housing
Authority Mosque in Karachi (p166). Elsewhere, town planning remains a
distant aspiration amid an awful lot of hastily thrown-up concrete.
Painting
Mughal emperors, especially Akbar (r 1556–1605) and Jehangir (r 1605–27),
were great champions of miniature painting. Under their patronage, mini-
atures evolved from the Persian style of painting purely historical or legendary
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 55
scenes to painting contemporary events and portraiture. Akbar had over 100
artists working for him at his court, assembling their works into painted
books, the most glorious of which was the Abkarnama, celebrating his
reign. The detailed and evocative portraits made of Akbar and (particularly)
Jehangir are among the most glorious examples of Islamic portraiture still
known. The Lahore Museum (p107) has a fine collection of miniatures.
Modern Pakistani painting is best represented by Abdur Rahman
Chughtai (1897–1975), renowned for his portraits, pencil sketches and
etchings. At the time of his death, many of his paintings were still in his
collection and are now exhibited in the private Chughtai Museum (p108),
run by his son.
The National College of Arts in Lahore takes the lead in training new
and promising artists in traditional and modern styles, while Karachi’s
emerging scene is dominated by abstract art.
Handicrafts
Pakistan has a kaleidoscope of rural handicrafts, some of which share roots
with the lavish decorative art of the Mughals. Most fill a practical need as
much as an aesthetic one. Important crafts still done by hand are described
in this section. Most of those with high export potential are easiest to find Gift of the Indus (http://
in Karachi. Prices are often higher and the selection smaller in Lahore. artsedge.kennedy
-center.org/pakistan
CARPETS /default.htm) is a great
The Mughals introduced carpet weaving to Pakistan, which continues to introduction to Pakistan’s
be a major hard-currency earner for the country. Designs are derived from rich artistic heritage.
Persian and Turkoman styles, with Lahore, Faisalabad and Muzaffarabad
being traditional centres of production. The industry received an unexpected
ART ON WHEELS
Pakistan’s buses and trucks are truly works of art: mirrored and sequinned; painted with poetry, jet
planes, birds, flowers and passages from the Quran; and equipped with tinted windows, musical
horns and jingling chains. Even the humblest autorickshaw may be lovingly adorned with vinyl
appliqué and painted with mountain landscapes or cinema heroes. One of the best places to see
vehicles being painted is in Peshawar, where local guides can arrange tours (p196).
56 T H E C U LT U R E • • S p o r t lonelyplanet.com
fillip in the 1980s with the influx of Afghan refugees leading to a boom in
the Peshawar area, which remains a key market for exports.
The Kashmir and Hazara regions are notable for their namda styles of
embroidered wool rugs, while Balochistan and southern Sindh are known
for woven or knotted rugs of wool or camel hair.
CERAMICS
Throughout the country you can find terracotta pots, figurines or toys that
look much like the 3000-year-old ones from Moenjodaro and Harappa.
Each region also has its own – often vivid – colours and designs in glazed
pottery. Outstanding examples are the blue-and-white pottery and tiles
of Multan and Hala (near Hyderabad in Sindh) and the paper-thin black
clayware of Bahawalpur.
JEWELLERY
Gold and silver jewellery is found all over the country. Regional specialities
from Sindh and Balochistan include silver, either enamelled or inlaid with
semiprecious stones, while in Karachi and Lahore you’ll find gold inlaid with
precious stones. Ander Shahar Bazaar in Peshawar is the place for heavy
tribal silver jewellery from Afghanistan, Chitral and the Northern Areas –
plus lots of imitations.
METALWORK
Hammered copper and brass vessels, trays and boxes, and elaborate items like
samovars – plain, engraved, embossed or filigreed – are found in Lahore and
across northern Punjab, and in Peshawar’s Qissa Khawani Bazaar. Karachi,
Hyderabad and Multan jewellers are known for enamelware.
TEXTILES
Sindh and the Multan area are known for hand-loomed cotton fabric, often
block-printed or tie-dyed. Karachi and Multan are also known for hand-
loomed silk. Rilli is a Sindhi art combining printing, appliqué and embroidery
to make patchwork quilts, shawls and even rugs; the best is said to be from
east of the Indus. Frequently seen in Sindh and Balochistan are caps and
clothes with tiny mirrors embroidered into the fabric.
Cotton blouses and shawls with dense geometrical embroidery called
pulkari are made in Swat and Hazara and around Chakwal in northern
Punjab. Soft woollen shawls and coverlets with fine silk embroidery are
trademarks of the Kaghan Valley and Kashmir. Patti, the sturdy hand-loomed
wool of Chitral, remains popular locally, particularly when made into the
‘pancake’ pakol hats (also found in Hunza).
SPORT
Pakistan has a good sporting heritage, from Olympic field hockey to the
mighty Jahangir Khan, probably the greatest player in the history of squash.
But for most Pakistanis, sport means just one thing: cricket. Arguably the
country’s second religion, it is a true national obsession, and its leading
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • S p o r t 57
KABBADI
A combination of wrestling, rugby and tag, kabbadi comes from Punjab. Two teams, each of
12 members, are separated by a line in the middle of a 12.5m-by-10m arena. One team sends
a ‘raider’ to the other side; he has to keep uttering the phrase ‘kabaddi kabaddi’ and touch as
many members of the opposing team as possible without taking a second breath, and must re-
turn to his part of the field in the same breath. The defending side must protect themselves and
attempt to force the invader to either touch the ground and/or take a second breath. Kabaddi
has been famous in the subcontinent for centuries with major ‘houses’ dominating the scene
and competing in national and international competitions.
with green chillies. ‘Masala’ means it has been prepared with mixed spices,
dopyaaza (‘double onions’) has onions added twice to the cooking process,
and makhani means cooked with butter. Tikka and boti kebab both refer to
meat grilled on a spit. ‘Broasted’ involves some steam cooking, with broasted
chicken taking characteristics of both fried and roasted chicken.
Kofta are lamb meatballs (or sometimes vegetable balls); nargasi kofta is
minced beef and egg. Qeema is minced mutton or beef in a spiced sauce.
Middle Eastern influence is evident in seek kebabs: mutton or chicken bits or
meatballs barbecued on a skewer. A scrumptious Pashtun variation is chapli
kebabs (spicy ‘mutton burgers’).
A protein-charged dish is braised chicken livers (karai kaleji), while the
more adventurous can tuck into gurda (kidneys), kapureh (testicles) and
magaz or bheja (brains).
Rice
Rice (chaval) can be ordered boiled (sadha chaval) or Central Asian–style
Spicy, meat-dominated
(pilau), cooked in stock and flavoured with spices, sometimes with vegetables
Mughlai cuisine traces its
or meat added. Qabli pilau is an Afghan version, made with sweet raisins and
roots back to the (Islamic)
served with a vegetable side dish. Then of course there’s biryani, a fragrant,
Mughal empire that once
lightly spiced steamed rice with vegetables or meat tossed through it – not
reigned supreme in the
to be missed!
subcontinent.
Snacks
Among the jumble of spicy Pakistani street snacks on offer are addictive
samosas (deep-fried pastry triangles filled with spiced vegetables and/or
minced meat), tasty tikkas (spiced and barbecued beef, mutton, fish or
chicken chunks) and pakoras (bite-sized vegetables dipped in chickpea-flour
batter and deep-fried). Kebabs doused in cool curd and wrapped in warm
bread are another favourite.
If you’re seeking something without chillies, try baked yams, popcorn,
roasted or boiled corn on the cob, or a little glass of peppery chicken soup
(murgh kai).
Sweets
Pakistan has a positively lip-smacking assortment of colourful mithai
(sweets). Some sweet shops produce their works of art right on the spot –
look for jalebis, the orange-coloured whorls of deep-fried batter dunked in
sticky sugar syrup. Also popular is barfi, a fudge-like milk-based confec-
tion, which comes in a variety of flavours. Gajar ka halwa is a delectable
soft, seasonal sweet made from carrots, while irresistible gulab jamuns are
deep-fried balls of dough soaked in rose-flavoured syrup – they’re especially
yummy when served warm.
Some of the most common restaurant desserts include kheer, which
resembles a creamy rice pudding (the finest contains rose-water, saffron
and pistachios), and kulfi, a firm-textured ice cream made with reduced
milk and flavoured with any number of nuts (often pistachio) or fruits.
Faluda comes in several varieties but is basically vermicelli (often with Salt may be sprinkled on
ice cream). fruit in Pakistan, so re-
quest its omission if you’d
Fruit prefer your fruit plain.
Fresh fruit includes mangoes, pomegranates, papayas, bananas and melons
in the southern plains; excellent dates (kajur) in Balochistan and Sindh;
and apricots, peaches, plums, apples, cherries, mulberries and grapes (and
wonderful dried apricots and mulberries) in Chitral and the Northern
Areas. Cheiku (also spelt chiku) is a small brown fruit that roughly looks
60 FOOD & DRINK •• Drinks lonelyplanet.com
like a small potato but is sweet. Fruit is seasonal and comes in waves as
summer and autumn progress.
DRINKS
Nonalcoholic Drinks
Pakistan is awash with tea (chai), usually ‘milky tea’ (a mixed chai called dood
chai or doodvali chai) of equal parts water, leaves, sugar and milk brought to
a raging boil and often poured from a great height. If you don’t want sugar
(cheeni) in your tea, make sure you request this before brewing begins. Many
places will serve an unmixed ‘set’, complete with warmed milk and sugar on
the side. In the north, tea is sometimes served salted. Outside deluxe hotels
and some big-city restaurants – which serve frothy cappuccinos and perky
espressos – the only coffee available is of the instant variety.
Chinese-style green tea is called sabz-chai. The Pashtuns have raised this
to a sweet and sublime art form called khawa, with cardamom or other
spices. The Kashmiris have several versions, including one with salt, coconut,
almond and cardamom.
Sweet and savoury lassi, a yogurt-based beverage, is much loved and
incredibly refreshing. Also miraculously rejuvenating is ‘fresh lime’, or
nimbu pani, comprised of crushed ice, salt, sugar, soda water and the juice
of fresh limes or lemons.
Bazaars throughout Pakistan are often lined with vendors selling freshly
squeezed fruit and sugar cane juice (ganay), although their barely rinsed
glasses can be a bit dubious. It’s best to go to stalls where you can watch the
juice being squeezed in front of you, not only to make sure it hasn’t been sit-
ting around in a jug, but also to ensure it’s not watered down. Be aware that
some places may add salt or sugar to juices – if you don’t want these, say so.
Always remember that ice can pose a health risk so it’s best to ask for it
to be omitted unless you are confident of the hygiene.
Tap water, unless appropriately filtered, is best avoided; see p398 for further
information. Bottled water and soft drinks (including imported brands) are
safe – but look for any evidence that the bottles may have been reused. Also
safe are the little boxes of fruit juice that you punch open with a straw.
Alcoholic Drinks
Pakistan is officially dry but non-Muslim foreigners can apply for a liquor
permit that allows them to purchase locally made alcohol and also consume
it in the bars of some top-end hotels. The permits are issued by Excise &
Travellers should be Taxation Department offices found in the larger cities (see regional chapters
aware that during for details). These offices can also tell you where to buy booze once you’ve
Ramazan (Ramadan), got a permit.
the Islamic month of In Hunza some people still brew mel, a coarse grape wine, and a powerful
sunrise-to-sunset fasting, mulberry brandy called arak. Kalasha and some other Chitralis make a quaf-
most restaurants are fable red wine. Other locally made alcohol includes Murree beer, as well as
closed during daylight several kinds of spirits such as vodka, gin, rum and whiskey.
hours (see the boxed
text, opposite). WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Pakistan has a range of eateries, from simple roadside stalls to fancy multi-
cuisine restaurants. Hotel restaurants outnumber independent ones in most
smaller towns, and tend to keep longer hours. For those on a tight budget,
all the cities and larger towns have quick-service eateries at markets and
transport stations, which usually stay open throughout the day. These places
tend to focus on ubiquitous Pakistani food.
More upmarket restaurants are found in the larger cities (Lahore and
Karachi are especially good), and these cook up a tantalising array of global
lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K • • Ve g e t a r i a n s & Ve g a n s 61
RAMAZAN (RAMADAN)
Ramazan (Ramadan) is the auspicious Islamic month of sunrise-to-sunset fasting (no eating, drink-
ing or smoking; those exempt – in addition to non-Muslims – include the very elderly, the ill,
young children and pregnant women). During this time, most eateries are closed during daylight
hours; a number, especially in smaller towns, may even close down for the entire month. Meals
are taken after sunset and just before sunrise.
The best places for travellers to find food and drink during fasting hours are at hotels, food
stalls at train and bus stations, and sometimes Chinese (and occasionally other) restaurants. A
fair few supermarkets, general stores and fruit-and-vegetable stalls remain open throughout the
day, enabling you to buy refreshments to eat in the privacy of your hotel room.
Travellers are often given leeway to eat, drink and smoke, but if you do so in public be aware
that some people may give you disapproving stares or, in some cases, even question you (just
politely say you’re not Muslim). Nonetheless, it’s kinder to eat, drink and smoke out of the public
domain – not only is this culturally respectful, it’s considerate not to indulge in front of those
who are abstaining.
For approximate dates of Ramazan, see p371.
fare served in smart interiors. Major cities also have a decent range of
mid-priced restaurants with menus usually flaunting a mix of Pakistani,
Chinese and possibly Continental dishes (the Pakistani choices are usually
best). The bigger cities also have a clutch of good bakeries, juice stalls and
sweet shops.
Operating hours for restaurants vary widely, but most are at least open for During Ramazan (Ram-
lunch and dinner; others (especially street eateries) remain open all day. adan), each day’s fast is
often broken with dates,
VEGETARIANS & VEGANS which are considered to
Vegetarians aren’t nearly as well catered for as carnivores. Most restaurants be auspicious.
have just a few (if any) uninspiring vegetarian items, many cruelly over-
cooked, rendering them nutritionally useless. Having said that, the more
upmarket restaurants in the larger cities offer a better range of veggie crea-
tions than their budget brothers. Vegetables are known as sabzi in Pakistan.
The universal vegetarian dish is curried lentils (dhal), with other common veg
accompaniments including spicy spinach (palak), potatoes (aloo), cauliflower
(gobi), okra (bhindi), chickpeas (channa) and peas (mattar).
There’s little understanding of veganism (in Pakistan, the term ‘pure
vegetarian’ means without eggs), and animal products such as milk, butter,
ghee and curd are included in most Pakistani dishes.
Menu Decoder
NONVEGETARIAN DISHES
aloo tikka mashed-potato patty
kebab barbecued meat cooked on iron rods
qormaa rich, thickened curry of chicken, mutton or vegetables (meat is tenderised by
marination in yogurt before cooking)
rogan josh red curry with a thin gravy, made from the leg of mutton
shaamee kebab cutlets of minced meat and lentils
seek kebab meat cooked on skewers
tandoori chicken spice-marinated chicken cooked in a clay oven (without gravy)
VEGETARIAN DISHES
aloo gobi curried potatoes and cauliflower
baigan bartaa eggplant mashed and cooked
bhindi okra, also known as ‘lady’s finger’
chola spiced chickpeas
dam aloo potatoes cooked in a pressure cooker and served with gravy
mattar paneer unfermented cheese and pea curry
palak paneer unfermented cheese chunks in a pureed spinach sauce
rajma curried kidney beans
SWEETS
gulab jamun deep-fried ball of dough soaked in rose-flavoured syrup
halwa soft sweetmeat made from lentils, semolina or wheat, with butter, sugar,
milk and sweet spices
ladoo sweetmeat ball made with gram flour and semolina
Food Glossary
aaboochaa plum
aam mango
aaroo peach
andaa/ande egg/s
baigan eggplant
dahi yogurt
dood milk
gobi cauliflower
kaddoo pumpkin
kelaa banana
kishmish sultanas
kubaanee apricot
makkan butter
mattar peas
meerch chilli
pal fruit
paneer cheese
pyaaz onion
seb apple
63
Environment
THE LAND
From the snowbound heights of the Hindukush and Karakoram ranges to the
almost tropical shores of the Arabian Sea, Pakistan occupies 796,096 sq km;
it’s a quarter of the size of India and more than three times as big as the UK.
A further 81,310 sq km is taken up by Azad Jammu & Kashmir (AJK) and the
Northern Areas, the parts of the old state of Jammu & Kashmir administered
by Pakistan under the terms of the 1949 UN ceasefire with India.
Pakistan rubs shoulders with Iran, Afghanistan, China and India,
and has 1046km of Arabian Sea coastline. The northern border is with
Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor, a strategic strip of land (in places no
more than 15km wide), beyond which is Tajikistan. From Gwadar Bay
in southwest Balochistan to the Khunjerab Pass on the China border is a
distance of over 1800km.
Topographically, Pakistan can be divided into six regions: north-
ern mountains, northern plateau, western mountains, Balochistan pla-
teau, southeast desert and the Indus plain. Coursing through it all like a
2500km artery is the Indus River – rising in Tibet, flowing northwest and
around Nanga Parbat, dropping south out of the mountains to water a
populous flood plain, and emptying through an immense delta into the
Arabian Sea.
The Karakoram boasts
the longest glaciers in
Northern Mountains
the world outside the
From Afghanistan the Hindukush range, crowned by 7706m Tirich Mir,
polar regions, including
reaches across Chitral and, under the name Hindu Raj, continues east to the
five glaciers of over
Indus. Northwards in Tajikistan the Pamir range begins. Along Pakistan’s
50km in length: Batura,
border with China and south into Ladakh stretches the Karakoram range,
Hispar, Baltoro, Biafo and
with the densest concentration of high peaks on earth (including 8611m
Siachen.
K2, second in stature only to Everest) and the longest glaciers outside the
polar regions. Poking into Pakistan, within the curve of the Indus, is the
Himalayan range, anchored here by 8125m Nanga Parbat.
Northern Plateau
The undulating lowlands at the foot of the mountains include the fertile
Peshawar Valley (ancient Gandhara, watered by the Kabul River) west of
the Indus and the sandy, eroded Potwar Plateau across northern Punjab to
Islamabad. At the southern edge of the Potwar, overlooking the plains, is
the dry Salt range. Northeast Punjab, around Jhelum and Sialkot, catches
a bit of the monsoon and is also fertile.
Western Mountains
From the Hindukush down through the tribal lands of North-West
Frontier Province (NWFP) and eastern Balochistan runs a range of dry,
scrubby, 1500m to 2500m mountains called the Suleiman in NWFP and
the Kirthar in Balochistan. The region’s most famous feature is the Khyber
Pass into Afghanistan.
Balochistan Plateau
This hilly, parched and inhospitable plateau across western Balochistan
averages about 300m in elevation and is the least populous part of the
country. Some of Pakistan’s earliest known inhabitants tended goats and
sheep here in the 4th millennium BC.
64 ENVIRONMENT •• The Land lonelyplanet.com
COLLIDING CONTINENTS
The tremendous vertical landscape of northern Pakistan draws adventurers from around the world;
it has shaped cultures and continues to challenge everyday life and travel. It is also a geological
showcase of the fascinating and awesome processes of mountain formation.
About 130 million years ago, when dinosaurs still roamed the earth, the ‘Indian Plate’ broke
away from the primordial supercontinent Gondwanaland (the ancestor of Africa, Australia and
Antarctica) and drifted north towards another landmass called Laurasia, the ‘Asian Plate’. Between
the converging continents lay a wide, shallow sea called Tethys, and off the shore of Laurasia
was a chain of volcanic islands, similar to present-day Indonesia or Japan.
Some 80 million years after breaking away from Gondwanaland, India collided with Asia. The
Indian Plate buried its edge under the Asian Plate, lifting it up. Both plates compressed and piled
up against each other. Trapped in the middle, the small oceanic plate supporting the offshore
island chain was tipped almost on end, and the Tethys Sea was swallowed up. The mountain
chain comprising the Himalaya, Karakoram and Hindukush ranges was born as a result of this
stupendous collision, which is still going on today. Continents are not easily slowed down – the
Indian Plate continues to plough northwards (at about 5cm per year) and the mountains are
still rising.
Southeast Desert
From east of the Indus and Sutlej Rivers in Sindh and southern Punjab,
barren desert reaches across into Rajasthan in India. In Punjab it’s called
the Cholistan Desert, in Sindh the Great Thar Desert, and near the sea it
becomes mangrove swamps.
Indus Plain
The alluvial plains of the Indus and its four main tributaries – from north
to south, the Jhelum, Chenab, Ravi and Sutlej Rivers – are Pakistan’s heart,
where most of its people live and most of its food is grown. The plains, all
within Sindh and Punjab (punjab means ‘five waters’), constitute about a third
of the country. Though they get little rain, the fertile grassland doabs (the
wedges of land between the rivers) are irrigated by a vast complex of canals.
WILDLIFE
Pakistan’s ocean-to-alpine geography, with its myriad habitats, supports an
amazing variety of animals and plants: 188 species of mammals, 666 species
of migratory and resident birds, 174 species of reptiles, 16 species of am-
phibians and 525 species of fish. Of the approximately 5000 wild plants, 372
species are endemic to Pakistan. Yet wildlife tourism (other than hunting) is
undeveloped, protected areas have very little infrastructure, and – apart from Stones of Silence: Journeys
trekking into remote areas – it is difficult to see most of Pakistan’s wildlife. in the Himalaya by Dr
George Schaller is a
Animals highly readable account
Hundreds of species of fish and shellfish live along Pakistan’s Arabian Sea of the author’s research
coastline, and two species of sea turtle (green and olive Ridley) nest here. into the creatures of the
The coastal and riverine wetlands, including the immense Indus River delta, Hindukush, Karakoram
are home to many animals including wild boar and marsh crocodile. The and Himalaya, includ-
wetlands also play host to numerous migratory bird species. The lower to ing the majestic snow
mid reaches of the Indus River are the only habitat of one of the world’s rarest leopard.
mammals, the Indus River dolphin (see the boxed text, p67).
Away from the rivers and the extensive irrigation system, the plains of
Punjab and Sindh are largely desert. Large mammals are rare and sparsely
distributed, and include leopard, black buck (reintroduced to Lal Suhanra
National Park), chinkara gazelle, urial (red sheep) and the Sindh ibex.
Pakistan’s only species of wild horse, the Indian wild ass, migrates from
India to a corner of the Rann of Kutch in southern Sindh near the mouth of
the Indus, while there have been unconfirmed sightings of the Tibetan wild
ass along the border with China.
Wild animal species in Pakistan’s lower mountain forests include black and
brown bear, wild cat, wild boar, jackal, fox, hare, rhesus monkey, porcupine,
snake, lizard and bat.
In the high Karakoram and Hindukush the variety of wild animals is
surprisingly rich, though you are unlikely to see much along the Karakoram
Hwy (KKH) or in the vicinity of settlements. Inhabitants include snow
66 E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe lonelyplanet.com
leopard, wolf, Himalayan ibex, Kashmir markhor (a wild goat that figures in
Twitchers should grab a the region’s oldest legends), Marco Polo sheep and bharal (blue sheep). On
copy of the up-to-date the Chinese side of the border, the sparsely populated regions of Xinjiang
paperback field guide provide a habitat for further elusive creatures including snow leopard, argali
Birds of Pakistan by sheep and wild yak.
Richard Grimmett, Tim One creature you’re likely to see if you cross the Khunjerab Pass, the Deosai
Inskipp and Tom Roberts. Plains or the Subash Plateau in Xinjiang in warmer weather is the golden
marmot, sunning itself near its burrow, whistling in alarm when you get close.
Others you might see while trekking are the Tibetan red fox, ermine, alpine
weasel, cape hare, mouse-hare (or pika), and the high mountain vole. Bigger,
shyer residents include black bear, brown bear and the Himalayan lynx.
ENDANGERED SPECIES
The Snow Leopard Con- The destruction and fragmentation of Pakistan’s natural habitats – with the
servancy (www.snow inevitable extinction and near-extinction of many species of wildlife – is
leopardconservancy due to human population pressure and subsequent land clearing. The most
.org) has info on the prominent animals threatened or endangered with extinction are the Indus
biology, mythology and River dolphin (see the boxed text, opposite), snow leopard, Marco Polo
conservation of snow sheep and Houbara bustard.
leopards including how The charismatic snow leopard has been a symbol for conservation for
you can help save this decades in Pakistan and bordering countries. The rugged Karakoram and
magnificent cat. Hindukush mountains are a significant habitat for this species and are the
focus of international research and conservation efforts.
BIRD-WATCHING IN PAKISTAN
Pakistan lies on a major migration route from Central Asia and Siberia. River valleys act as natural
channels and flight paths, and Pakistan’s greatest waterway has given its name to a major flight
path – the Indus Flyway. At least 10 species of duck and goose commonly migrate from as far
away as Siberia; hundreds of thousands move through the valleys from September to April, a
fact known to hunters for centuries. Haleji Lake in Sindh is a superb water-bird sanctuary that in
winter can feature dozens of species, including duck, goose, heron and egret, and even flamingo
and pelican. Pakistan is a signatory to the Ramsar Convention to ensure the conservation of
wetlands, and has designated nine wetlands, including Haleji Lake, as Ramsar sites.
The forests of the foothills feature birds common to western Asia and even Europe. Among
the stands of oak and chestnut may be found the woodpecker; the wryneck, a superbly cam-
ouflaged relative of the woodpecker; and the unmistakable hoopoe, with salmon-pink plumage
and a showy crest.
The higher regions are subject to extremes of temperature and precipitation, yet in spring,
when alpine meadows are in bloom, birds of many varieties ascend to higher elevations to court
and nest. Larger species include the majestic lammergeier (or bearded vulture), a huge bird of
prey with a wingspan of nearly 3m. Other raptors that may be encountered are the golden eagle
and peregrine falcon.
The jewels in the crown for many bird-watchers are the fabulous pheasants, of which Pakistan
has several species. The Himalayan monal is without doubt the most spectacular, and this beauti-
ful, iridescent pheasant is still common in many parts of its range. Other birds in the pheasant
family that may be encountered in the high country include the Himalayan snowcock, at higher
altitudes, and the more common rock partridge (or chukar).
Even the rugged deserts hold an assortment of birds. Largest is the bustard, of which the
Houbara is the most widespread. Sandgrouse are similar to pigeons, but superbly camouflage
themselves among desert rubble. The various species of sandgrouse are all seed-eaters, but are
dependent on water and will fly up to 40km a day to drink. They have also made a remarkable
adaptation to desert life: they can soak up water with their breast feathers and carry it to the
nest to refresh their young.
lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe 67
Plants
Pakistan has more than 5000 species of trees, shrubs, wildflowers and grasses
that are irregularly distributed from desert plains to verdant river valleys to
alpine meadows. If not for irrigation, the plains would be mostly desert. There
are some patches of forest along the Indus and its tributaries, but most of
the plant life you will see is cultivated. The forests of southern Chitral, Swat,
Hazara and northern AJK include oak and chestnut trees (and eucalyptus,
acacia and other plantation trees for fodder and flood control) in their lower
reaches. Higher up are pine, spruce, juniper, deodar (Indian cedar), birch
and willow, along with poppy, columbine, forget-me-not, mallow, geranium
and many other spring wildflowers. A notable tree in the Northern Areas,
especially around Karimabad, is the upright poplar that is planted along rivers
and irrigation canals, adding a golden glow to the landscape in autumn.
Trekkers who have been to Nepal may recognise the spiky buckthorn
growing around mountain villages (particularly animal enclosures) and along
trails. The bright-orange berries can be made into a vitamin C–packed drink.
One of the delights of the Karakoram is its unexpectedly lush, glacier-watered
68 E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s & P r o t e c t e d A re a s lonelyplanet.com
pastures, hidden in high valleys. Near and above the tree line in northern
Chitral, Swat Kohistan, the Gilgit basin and Hunza-Gojal, alpine wildflowers
abound in summer, carpeting the pastures. The few alpine trees there are
mainly dwarf juniper, and the delicate flowers include the magenta alpine
primrose, golden buttercup and the rare blue Himalayan poppy.
For years all this ‘protection’ remained fairly theoretical, with little money for
either surveys or management, and insufficient legal provision for the control
of land use. Where action was taken, such as in the Khunjerab National Park,
it failed to take account of the traditional interests and livelihoods of local
people and ran up against fierce opposition. In effect, it was counterproduc-
tive to the conservation aims of the park. The government has since engaged
the help of a number of conservation organisations, especially WWF and
World Conservation Union (IUCN), to assist with further surveys, public
input and management plans.
Pakistan now has 225 protected areas, including 14 national parks (see
table), 99 wildlife sanctuaries and 96 game reserves, equating to approxi-
mately 91,700 sq km or 10.5% of the country and representing most major
habitats. Don’t expect to find formal public offices, maps or other informa-
tion sources at parks except for at a few parks close to population centres
in Punjab or Sindh. The WWF, IUCN and Mountain Areas Conservancy
project (MACP) have information brochures explaining programmes in the
Northern Areas and NWFP.
are now only occasional visitors). Other wildlife includes the Siberian ibex
and Ladakh urial, black bears and wolves.
Renowned wildlife
DEOSAI PLAINS NATIONAL PARK biologist, author and
This park (p291) was declared in 1993 in response to the impact of increas- photographer Dr George
ing tourism on the fragile subalpine vegetation and a vulnerable population Schaller witnessed his
of Himalayan brown bears. first snow leopard in
Chitral Gol National Park.
KHUNJERAB NATIONAL PARK
This park (p317) was declared in 1975 at the urging of wildlife biologist Dr
George Schaller, to protect Marco Polo sheep. The government then prom-
ised, but never delivered, compensation to local people whose traditional
grazing rights had suddenly evaporated as a result of the declaration. Little
else was done until 1989, when an international workshop urged a strict
ban on grazing and hunting in a ‘core area’ of the park. Most local people,
whose livelihoods depend on grazing yaks and other animals in those
valleys, refused to cooperate, and a suit was filed to reverse the grazing
ban. The suit was eventually lost, and herders and hunters were ejected,
however, with the help of the government’s main consultant on the park
(the WWF), a process of community consultation was set in motion.
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Pakistan’s greatest challenges are intricately linked to the environment:
deforestation, desertification, salinity, pollution, and energy and water
shortages all play a significant role in the cycle of poverty and the limita-
tions to economic development.
Only 5% of Pakistan’s land is forested, and natural forests are declining
at an alarming rate. Especially vulnerable are the mountain and mangrove
forests. Trees are an essential resource for rural communities and as a
habitat for wildlife. Unregulated private logging in some of the Northern
© Lonely Planet Publications
70 E N V I R O N M E N T • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l I s s u e s lonelyplanet.com
Areas has led to severe slope instability, water pollution and land degrada-
tion, and few profits have accrued to local people.
Deforestation coupled with overgrazing can lead to desertification, and
to soil salinity – a problem that directly affects food production in this
primarily arid country. As much as one quarter of the country’s arable
land is affected by erosion and salinity, and it is claimed that as much as
two million hectares of once-productive agricultural land has been aban-
doned in the irrigation-canal areas as a result of salinity. But the news is
not all bad and solutions aimed at addressing these problems (including
wide-scale reafforestation) continue to be researched and implemented.
The cities have their own environmental problems. Air pollution is the
most obvious, and it isn’t surprising to learn that almost all samples col-
lected in Pakistan’s major cities exceed World Health Organization (WHO)
guideline values. Water shortage is perhaps the most politically explosive
issue in Pakistan’s south. Most people living in Karachi do not have ac-
cess to clean water, resulting in increasing levels of health problems and
occasional civil disturbances when local politicians agitate for this most
basic of life’s requirements.
Pakistan’s chronic shortage of energy is a serious limitation to economic
progress and while the government pursues thermal and hydropower
projects, it has been very slow to adopt newer sustainable technologies
such as solar and wind power. On the bright side, several hundred villages
in Balochistan and Punjab have been earmarked for solar energy projects,
and a small wind-powered plant operates in Rawalpindi.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
Islamabad &
Rawalpindi
The so-called twin cities of Islamabad and Rawalpindi are commonly viewed as one unit,
and indeed, one day the two will physically merge. However, these twins, with separate
ancestry and distinct personalities, are far from identical. Islamabad is a late-20th-century
capital laid out in straight lines and right angles: a proud metric showcase of government
and administration. Rawalpindi, on the other hand, grew from a ramshackle backwater vil-
lage to a sprawling hub on the Grand Trunk Rd during the 19th century.
The twins’ personalities are rather like chalk and cheese: Islamabad is patently more subdued
and suburban with broad avenues, grassy parkland, shiny restaurants and just a whiff of the
exasperating human and mechanical crush that epitomises most subcontinental cities. For those
with a penchant for the adrenaline-pumping hullabaloo that a typical South Asian metropolis
delivers, all that awaits in Rawalpindi – affectionately dubbed ‘Pindi’ – a mere 15km away.
Neither city is a major tourist drawcard in its own right – most foreign travellers only pause
here to arrange visas/permits or use it as a jumping-off point to other destinations – yet not
far away are the fascinating archaeological digs around the Gandharan city of Taxila. Here,
Buddhism and the sublime Graeco-Buddhist art evolved and flourished, and its glory can be
appreciated in Taxila’s splendid museum and at several major sites. And if the energy-zapping
heat of the plateau starts to take its toll during the warmer months, you can flee to the cool
mountain air of Murree, an erstwhile British Raj hill station. Even better, ramble around the less
developed, more serene hill stations strung out along the forested ridges known as the Galis, a
truly welcoming escape from the frazzling rat race and other vicissitudes of life on the road.
HIGHLIGHTS
Marvel at Islamabad’s Shah Faisal
Mosque (p77), a modern geometrical
interpretation of a desert tent with rocket-
like minarets, on a phenomenal scale
The
Ramble around the breezy Margalla Hills Galis
(p79) – a slice of natural beauty right on Murree
Islamabad’s doorstep
Delve into the glorious legacy of Gand-
haran civilisation at Taxila Museum (p88)
and the nearby archaeological sites (p89) Taxila
Fa
n ah
isa
2 Jin
largest cantonment south of the city (canton-
lA
ir Shakarparian &
hm
ve
as Pakistan Monument
Zero Point
ments were the tidy colonial enclaves built next -e-K
rah 5)
to ‘native’ towns). Rawalpindi ‘Cantt’ is still the ah 4–
Sh (p7
ap
headquarters of the Pakistan army. It didn’t M Rd
ad re
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ab ur
take long for the heat-sensitive British to de- am
e Isl M
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velop their cool hill retreat at nearby Murree.
As Karachi was too far from everything, To Peshawar
(165km)
a decision was made in the 1950s to build a Faizabad
Skyways Bus
new capital near Rawalpindi and the summer Survey of Station & Hotel
3 Pakistan
hill stations. To avoid urban chaos and decay,
Sh
Rawalpindi
ah
Cricket Stadium
architect-planner Konstantinos Doxiades’ idea
rah
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-i-
was to let Islamabad grow sector by sector
Isl
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across a grid, each sector having its own resi- Sir
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ad
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dences, shops and parks. Construction began a Satellite
Peshawar ay Town
(165km) Kh Chandni Chowk
in 1961, during which time Rawalpindi enjoyed Pir Wadhai
Bus Station
a brief period as Pakistan’s temporary capital. Asg Rawalpindi
har General Hospital
Today, Islamabad is a slowly expanding city, Ma
ll R
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4 Rajah
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ORIENTATION Gran
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M
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Islamabad
%051 To Chakwal (88km);
Jhelum (97km);
Islamabad has no real axis or centre. Each sec- Lahore (280km)
ISLAMABAD
A B C D
32
Marg
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30
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Faisal Ave
29 59
16 Gol
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Park Rd
8th Ave Shalimar 8
Kohistan Rd
9th Ave Shalimer 8
Ayub F-7 47
Market College Rd
Jinnah 60
F-8 8 Market 25
51
3 Kaghan Rd
38
49
To McDonald’s (1km);
Zone Bowls (2km); Nazim-ud-din Rd 76
Karachi Co (2.5km)
Jinnah Ave (Khyabani-e-Quaid-e-Azam) 39 Jinnah Ave (Khyabani-e-Quaid-e-Azam)
6 58 57 64 77 62
44 Fazal-ul-Haq Rd 68
8th Ave Ramna 7
9th Ave Ramna 8
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9th Ave Ramna 9
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G-7
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(CDA)
42
24 Minibus 120 70 Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy
Peshawar Minibus 1 & 6/Intercity Bus 48 27
Mor Zero
Shahrah-e-Kashmir Point Shahrah-e-Kashmir
To Karachi Co
(2.5km)
37
West Shakarparian
Lookout & Pakistan Rose &
Monument Jasmine
Minibus 1 & 6/Intercity Bus
Garden
East Lookout
H-8
6
Rd
en
G ard
To Shifa To Rawalpindi
International (15km)
(1km) 31
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
lonelyplanet.com I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • I s l a m a b a d 75
0 1 km
0 0.5 miles
E F G H
Saidpur
Village
35
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Khayaban-e-lqbal
Hill Rd
17 Kohsar
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14t h St
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Nurpur Shahan
Ataturk Ave Shalimar 5
65 20 56 Village
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Secretariat
Pak Telecom
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Central Telegraph
Market Rd
Lukman Hakeem Rd
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7
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4
4th Ave
Constitution Ave
Park
18 73
Ataturk Ave Ramna 5
33
Ataturk Ave Ramna 6
Garden Rd
Covered Supreme
Melody Court
Market Market
Saddar Rd 40 Isfahani Rd
Bazaar Rd
45
2 4
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4th St
9
1st St
13 Diplomatic
67 Enclave
72 14 11 3 (G-5)
28 5
2nd Rd
55 52
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Minibus 120
43 21 Embassy Rd
75
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54
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Murree Rd
Jinnah
Stadium To Murree (44km); 6
Patriata (64km);
Bhurban (59km);
d
Nathiagali (77km)
Murree R
19
Rawal
Lake Rãwal
Lake
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 76 I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • I n f o r m a t i o n lonelyplanet.com
time of research the airport moneychangers that change cash and travellers cheques, including one at
were only changing foreign currency (not Melody Market (%9204665) in Islamabad.
travellers cheques). Standard Chartered Bank (Map p78; %5527286;
Most banks in Saddar Bazaar in Rawalpindi cnr Haider & Canning Rds, Rawalpindi; h9am-5pm Mon-
exchange foreign currency. There are also Thu, 9am-1.30pm & 3-5pm Fri)
several moneychangers near the corner of
Kashmir Rd and the Mall – they keep longer Post
hours than the banks, offer slightly better International Mail Office (Map pp74-5;
rates (but not always) and will often change %111111117; Jinnah Market, F-7, Islamabad)
travellers cheques. Islamabad Main Post Office (Map pp74-5;
Citibank (%111333333; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am- %9201184; Melody Market, G-6, Islamabad; h9am-
12.30pm Fri, 9am-1.30pm Sat) Islamabad (Map pp74-5; 1pm & 1.30-8pm Mon-Sat, poste restante 9am-2pm
Jinnah Ave, Blue Area); Rawalpindi (Map p78; Adamjee Rd) Mon-Sat)
Changes major currencies and travellers cheques, and has Rawalpindi Main Post Office (Map p78; %9271506;
an ATM accepting most cards. Kashmir Rd, Rawalpindi; h9am-1pm & 1.30-9pm
JS Bank (Map pp74-5; %111777999; Ali Plaza, Jinnah Mon-Sat)
Ave, Blue Area, Islamabad; h9am-1.30pm & 2.30-5pm
Mon-Thu, 9am-12.30pm & 3-5pm Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat) Telephone
Has an Amex-only ATM. The best rates for interstate and international
National Bank Islamabad (Map pp74-5; %2826848; telephone calls are at the numerous public call
Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy, Aabpara, G-6; h9am-5pm offices (PCOs) in the sector markets, the Blue
Mon-Thu, 9am-1.30pm & 3-5pm Fri); Rawalpindi (Map Area and Aabpara in Islamabad, and scat-
p78; %9272676; Bank Rd; h9am-1.30pm Mon-Thu, tered throughout the bazaars of Rawalpindi.
9am-12.30pm Fri & Sat) The National has several branches For details about phonecards, see p377.
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
lonelyplanet.com I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • S i g h t s 77
CENTRAL RAWALPINDI 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
inibuses
To Pir Wadhai To Faizabad (3km);
(3km) aza a r Islamabad (8km)
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45 49
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10
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nn
Sa 5
Ca
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i
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To Islamabad
International
Azizbhati Rd
26 Airport (4km)
13
te
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rt Suzu
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Kucheri 3
Cantonment Chowk To Lahore
(295km)
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
lonelyplanet.com I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • S i g h t s 79
views over Islamabad and, on the rare clear Bus 120 leaves from Karachi Co (west of
day, south to the Salt Range. It’s a splendid Islamabad), via Sitara Market and Aabpara.
spot to get a sense of the city’s layout, with the
Shah Faisal Mosque a breathtaking sight. To MARGALLA HILLS NATIONAL PARK
get here, hop off intercity minibus 1 or 6 at 7th The Margalla Hills north of Islamabad are
Ave and catch a Suzuki at Khayaban-e-Iqbal, full of hiking trails that snake their way up
or walk up the steep path behind the small ridgetops and down through forested valleys.
Marghzar Zoo for about 30 minutes. Hiking Around Islamabad (Rs 150), available
Just east of the zoo, a road leads northeast in major bookshops, provides details of hikes
for 1km to Saidpur (Map pp74–5), a (for- ranging from short walks to three-day excur-
merly Hindu) village still famous for pottery. sions. It also provides a natural history back-
Scheduled to open in Saidpur in 2008 is a ground and handy hints for preparation. The
‘Model Village’ that will showcase Pakistani walks can be steep, and it’s usually hot and dry,
cultural traditions and handicrafts from various so take plenty of water and don’t walk alone.
regions, including Balochistan and Sindh.
Rawalpindi
NURPUR SHAHAN VILLAGE & BARI IMAM RAJAH BAZAAR
SHRINE This buzzing bazaar (Map p78; Fowara Chowk) is a ka-
About 4km northeast of the Diplomatic leidoscope of people and merchandise spread-
Enclave, Nurpur Shahan (Map pp74–5) village ing in every direction from chaotic Fowara
is a shrine to Shah Abdul Latif Kazmi. Also Chowk. You could spend hours exploring the
known as Bari Shah Latif or ‘Bari Imam’, colourful, crowded streets and buy anything
he was a 17th-century Sufi teacher and from batteries to a new set of teeth. Dotted
Islamabad’s unofficial patron saint. Thursday around are crumbling stone towers mark-
evening can be very festive, with pilgrims and ing old Hindu temples. Just beyond Rajah
trancelike qawwali (Islamic devotional sing- Bazaar on Railway Workshop Rd are rows of
ing). Foreigners are welcome but should al- truck workshops where you can sometimes see
ways dress conservatively. In the last week of trucks being decorated with the vibrant art
May the carnival-like urs (death-anniversary that typifies Pakistani road transport. To find
festival) of Bari Shah Latif is celebrated here. these trucks, take the Ganj Mandi Rd from
Minibus 3 heads to Nurpur Shahan from Fowara Chowk, and once you reach the tonga
Rajah Bazaar in Rawalpindi, via Aabpara. (two-wheeled horse or pony carriage) stand,
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 80 I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • A c t i v i t i e s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
turn left over the bridge. Continue along this FESTIVALS & EVENTS
road for about five minutes. In the last week of May, the urs of Bari Shah
Latif is celebrated at his shrine in the village
PAKISTAN ARMY MUSEUM of Nurpur Shahan (p79). The festival lasts
This armaments museum (Map p78; %56132608; several days as pilgrims sing and dance in
Iftikhar Rd; admission Rs 60; h9am-3pm Wed-Mon, 9am- an upbeat atmosphere; as the date changes
noon Tue) is next to the Army Library (behind the annually (according to the Islamic calendar)
Pearl Continental Hotel). It houses a handful consult the PTDC for details.
of well-kept galleries exhibiting a limited but The Rose & Jasmine Garden in Islamabad
interesting collection dating from prehistoric hosts several floral shows during the year,
times. Items include rifles, swords (including including the Rose Festival in March, the Spring
some Turkish ones), Stone Age hand-axes, a Flower Show in April, and the Chrysanthemum
former Russian missile system and, rather Show in November. Contact the PTDC for
oddly, an Australian harpoon. specific dates, as they vary each year.
AYUB NATIONAL PARK SLEEPING
Named after General Ayub Khan, the first It’s a good idea to book a room in advance
of Pakistan’s martial law administrators, as the most salubrious places can fill up fast.
this rather staid park (Map p78; Grand Trunk Rd) Most hotels have a noon checkout and many
south of the Cantonment has 900 hectares can arrange airport pick-ups with advance no-
of paths, gardens and lakes (with hire boats). tice. All rooms listed here have private bath-
To get here, take an airport-bound Suzuki rooms unless otherwise stated. Note that the
from Rawalpindi and get off at Kucheri showers in budget and midrange properties
Chowk, then take the right fork and travel may render a mere trickle, so double-check
for about 1km. before accepting the room.
Travellers have reported that some budget
ACTIVITIES and midrange lodgings in Rawalpindi have
Swimming refused accommodation to anyone who has
At the time of writing, only the Pearl Continental ‘Not Valid for Cantt Area’ stamped next to
Hotel (Map pp74-5; %5566011; The Mall, Rawalpindi; non- their visa – for further details see p378.
guests per day incl tax Rs 1000) allowed nonguests to
use its pool. Budget
In Islamabad you can stay cheaply at Sitara
Ten-Pin Bowling Market or Aabpara. Sitara Market has the
Zone Bowls (off Map pp74-5; %2251962; Megazone capital’s largest selection of economical hotels;
Complex, Fatima Jinnah Park, F-9, Islamabad; h10am-mid- to get here from Aabpara, take minibus 105 or
night) is a 10-lane, fully electronic bowling alley 120. In Rawalpindi, Saddar Bazaar has plenty
in a rather lifeless little shopping centre. The of cheap hotels and is convenient to the long-
cost for a game is Rs 140 (10am to 1pm), Rs distance bus and train stations.
190 (1pm to 5pm) or Rs 250 (5pm to mid- Establishments in this price bracket typi-
night). To get to Zone Bowls, enter the park cally have rooms that are small, sparsely
via the west entrance off 10th Ave. A taxi from furnished and in need of a facelift – expect
the Blue Area costs around Rs 60. functionality rather than luxury.
In the following listings, only the cheap-
TOURS est (without air-con) room tariffs have
The Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation been given.
(PTDC; Map pp74-5; % 9202766; Super Market, Aga
Khan Rd, F-6, Islamabad; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, closed ISLAMABAD
1-2pm Fri) can organise day tours of Taxila Tourist Campsite (Map pp74-5; no phone; Shahrah-e-
(p88) as well as other destinations – note Kashmir Rd; per person Rs 50) Opposite Aabpara, this
that tours may only run with minimum num- shady and secure foreigners-only camp site
bers, making it advisable to book at least a is popular with overlanders with their own
few days in advance. Prices are available on transport (car parking costs Rs 100). There’s
application. Many travel agencies also offer a kitchen but no cooking equipment, and
(tailor-made) tours. locked storage is available.
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • S l e e p i n g 81
Youth Hostel Islamabad (Map pp74-5; %2826899; and airy, although the singles are a bit box-
[email protected]; Garden Rd; dm HI & IYHF cardholders/ like. This sound budget choice also has a
annual members Rs 65/120, s/d Rs 700/900) This hos- decent restaurant.
tel has dozens of four-bed dorm rooms, Hotel Avanti (Map p78; %5580268, Adamjee Rd; s/d
communal toilets and cold showers – but Rs 250/450) The Avanti’s lacklustre rooms have
no cooking facilities, no restaurant and no certainly seen better days; however, renova-
camping. It has a rather institutional am- tions are planned so it may be more appealing
bience and the location is isolated. You by the time you read this.
must have youth hostel membership to stay New Kamran Hotel & Restaurant (Map p78;
(Rs 800 per year). %5566420; Kashmir Rd; s/d Rs 500/700) The com-
Simara Hotel (Map pp74-5; %2204555; Sitara Market, fortable, albeit threadbare, rooms in this
G-7; s/d Rs 400/600; a) This is the most popular older-style hotel have high ceilings and an
choice in Sitara. The carpeted rooms here are appealing sense of space. There’s a restaurant
quite small and uncharismatic, but comfort- on the premises.
able enough. Plainly furnished, they come
with a TV, little coffee tables and small tiled Rajah Bazaar, Committee Chowk &
bathroom. A plus point is the hotel’s quiet lo- Liaquat Chowk
cation, away from irksome traffic din. Simara Many cheap hotels around Rajah Bazaar are
is one of the most congenial places for solo reluctant to take foreigners; the following are
women travellers. some that do.
Hotel al-Hujurat (Map pp74-5; %2204403; Sitara Seven Brothers Hotel & Restaurant (Map p78;
Market, G-7; s/d Rs 500/700; a) This hotel scores %5551112; Liaquat Rd, Rajah Bazaar; s/d Rs 190/270)
points for its quiet location and although the The affable but noisy Seven Brothers Hotel
rooms (some with TV, most with squat toilet) has airy, spacious rooms that are good value
are rather dingy, they’re certainly inhabitable. when compared with others in the area.
Make sure you check a few rooms first as some Rooms are very plainly furnished but ade-
are superior to others. quately tidy and there’s a generous checkout
Hotel Friends Inn (Map pp74-5; %2272546; Block time of 4pm.
16, off Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy, Aabpara, G-6/1-4; s/d Al-Farooq Hotel (Map p78; %5960828; Dhok Khaba
Rs 700/1200; a) One of the best of Islamabad’s Rd, Committee Chowk; s/d Rs 230/400; a) The tired-
dreary budget bunch, this place is in an alley looking rooms are bare, with thinning sheets,
that links the bright lights of Khayaban- but passably clean and fair at this price.
e-Suhrawardy with the earthy curry restau- Al-Hateem International Hotel (Map p78 ;
rants in the street behind. The rooms are sim- %5502962; Murree Rd, Liaquat Chowk; s/d Rs 400/700;
ple and a little musty, but reasonably spacious a ) Although the singles are noticeably
and with a small TV. squeezy, the rooms here are in fair condition
New Islamabad Hotel (Map pp74-5; %2872250; 14 despite lacking character and being a tad on
I&T Centre, Aabpara Market, G-6; s/d Rs 1200/1400; a) One the stuffy side. The cleanliness is variable.
of the better budget choices, NI’s rooms are Park Hotel (Map p78; %5962397; Murree Rd, Liaquat
smallish but quite nicely kept, all with TV Chowk; s/d Rs 780/900; a) The Park is an older-
and many with floral-patterned carpet that style building with spacious, good-value
may bring back memories of grandma and rooms, each equipped with small tables and
grandpa’s place. There’s a restaurant on site chairs and many with TV. Some rooms are
and a clutch of inexpensive eateries nearby. a bit smoky and scruffy but are otherwise
comfortable. Meals are available.
RAWALPINDI
Saddar Bazaar Midrange
Al-Azam Hotel (Map p78; %5566404; Adamjee Rd; s/d Most midrange hotels have carpeted rooms,
Rs 180/280) A popular shoestring choice, Al- running hot water, cable TV and in-house
Azam has rudimentary rooms with confined restaurants and/or room service. The major-
bathrooms, but is not bad considering the ity of hotels in this category add 15% tax and
price. Inspect a few rooms first. occasionally also an 8% bed tax, therefore
Al-Falah Hotel (Map p78; %5580799; Adamjee adding 23% onto advertised room rates (taxes
Rd; s/d Rs 200/400) Al-Falah has competitively aren’t included in the following tariffs unless
priced rooms that are reasonably well kept otherwise stated).
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 82 I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • S l e e p i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Hotel Akbar International (Map p78; %5532001; swanky Marriott and Serena Hotels, but its
Liaquat Rd, Liaquat Chowk; s/d incl tax Rs 1250/1550; a) A rooms are still very upmarket and there are
popular choice in this locale, Akbar’s rooms several above-average restaurants on site.
are unexceptional but they’re comfortable
and fair for the price. All have small coffee EATING
tables, fridge and tiled bathroom. There’s also Islamabad
a restaurant. The capital city’s dining scene is no match to
that of Lahore or Karachi, but there are still
Top End some admirable choices, ranging from pasta
The capital has a limited number of five-star creations at plush restaurants in Islamabad, to
hotels, but what’s available is suitably sump- traditional biryanis dished up at Rawalpindi’s
tuous, all offering igloo-cold air-con and boisterous street eateries. Travellers craving
most with complimentary airport shuttles. familiar fast food will find a sprinkling of
It’s definitely worth asking for a discounted chains, such as KFC and Subway, predomi-
rate if the hotel isn’t full. Room rates are nantly around the sector markets and the
subject to additional taxes of up to 23% (not Blue Area.
included below). Mid- to upper-end restaurants impose
a tax of 15%, not included below unless
ISLAMABAD otherwise stated. In the following listings,
Holiday Inn (Map pp74-5; % 2827311; www telephone numbers have been provided
.holidayinnisbpk.com/Holiday_Inn.asp; Municipal Rd, Melody wherever reservations are advisable (espe-
Market, G-6; d Rs 15,000; ai) Although not in the cially on weekends).
same league as the Serena and Marriott, the
Holiday Inn is still impressive. It has well- RESTAURANTS
appointed rooms, professional service, a busi- Haleem Ghar (Map pp74-5; Golden Plaza, Jinnah Ave, Blue
ness centre and good restaurants. Area; mains Rs 40-190; h11.30am-midnight) This buzz-
Marriott Hotel (Map pp74-5; %2826121; www ing and unpretentious Pakistani restaurant
.marriott.com.pk; Aga Khan Rd, Shalimar 5; d US$265; cooks up food that’s pleasing to both the palate
ais) The five-star Marriott has all the and pocket. Possibilities include chicken tikka,
deluxe trappings you’d expect at this price: biryani or, for the more adventurous, brain
lavish rooms with internet connectivity, masala. Solo women and families can avail
plasma TVs and electronic safes, in addition themselves of the restaurant’s family section.
to an array of facilities that include a health Kabul Restaurant (Map pp74-5; College Rd, Jinnah
club, round-the-clock business centre and Market, F-7; mains Rs 70-190; hnoon-4pm & 7pm-mid-
fine restaurants, including popular Jason’s night) Carnivores can tuck into generous
Steakhouse (see p84). servings of succulent barbecued meat at this
o Serena Hotel (Map pp74-5; % 2874000; well-regarded Afghani restaurant. Salad, rice,
www.serenahotels.com; Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy Rd, G-5; yogurt and traditional-style bread beautifully
r Rs 30,000; ais) Set in beautifully land- accompany the tasty tikkas and kebabs.
scaped grounds, the sleek Serena has swish Usmania Restaurant (Map pp74-5; 13 Blue Area,
rooms, all immaculately decorated, with five- Jinnah Ave; mains Rs 110-595; h11am-11.30pm; a)
star goodies like flat-screen TVs, luxurious Part of a chain, this very popular dining
bathrooms and stuffed minibars. This elegant venue has a large, good-value Pakistani and
property incorporates traditional and con- Chinese menu. The mutton biryani and
temporary design styles that include oodles chicken jalfrezi get the thumbs up, as does
of marble-work, wooden panels and rich fab- the piping-hot naan.
rics. Amenities include terrific restaurants, a Pizzeria Pizza House (Map pp74-5; Jinnah Ave, Blue
health club, irresistible patisserie and modern Area; small/medium/large pizza from Rs 125/280/595;
business centre. hlunch & dinner) A pizza paradise, with pasta
dishes making a cameo appearance. There are
RAWALPINDI plenty of pizza toppings to choose from and
Pearl Continental Hotel (Map p78; %5566011; www a choice of crusts.
.pchotels.com; The Mall; s/d Rs 10,000/11,500; ais) Omar Khayam (Map pp74-5; %2825428; Jinnah
Looking a little frayed around the edges these Ave, Blue Area; mains Rs 150-360; hnoon-4pm & 7-11pm;
days, the PC lacks the charisma of Islamabad’s a) Recommendations at this very popular
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 84 I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • E a t i n g lonelyplanet.com
h11am-11pm) An acceptable option in Rajah the Marriott Hotel (Map pp74–5) on Aga
Bazaar, where the small menu has dependable Khan Rd in Islamabad or in the compound
Pakistani staples at good prices. of Flashman’s Hotel (Map p78) on the Mall
Anwar Café (Map p78; Adamjee Rd, Saddar Bazaar; in Rawalpindi.
mains Rs 55-130; h 6am-midnight) Opposite a In some of the restaurants and bars of
mosque, this bustling, basic street eatery has the Marriott, Serena and Pearl Continental
no English menu but the staff will help out. Hotels, guests can sign a form and buy liquor.
The chicken biryani, with chapatis and raita, Sometimes hotels will do this for nonguests.
is recommended.
Jahangir Balti Murg (Map p78; Kashmir Rd; mains ENTERTAINMENT
Rs 120-185; h11am-midnight) This no-frills street Ciros Cinema (Map p78; Saddar Bazaar, Rawalpindi; tick-
eatery has alfresco dining and is known ets Rs 50) Found off Haider Rd, Ciros screens
for its tasty meat-based dishes such as international films (consult newspapers for
chicken tikka. session times).
Usmania Restaurant (Map p78; Sher Pau Rd, Committee Gulistan Cinema (Map p78; Committee Chowk,
Chowk; mains Rs 120-450; h 9am-midnight; a ) Rawalpindi) One of Rawalpindi’s many cinemas,
Usmania is a welcome retreat from the tu- the Gulistan shows local films and a sprin-
multuous streets. The menu sports Pakistani kling of Hollywood blockbusters.
and Chinese fare with hot favourites including Rawalpindi Cricket Stadium (Map p72; Stadium Rd,
chicken masala (Rs 150) and mutton tikka Satellite Town) International cricket matches, in-
(Rs 210). cluding test matches, are played here. Consult
Larosh (Map p78; Hotel Blue Sky, Sher Pau Rd, Committee local newspapers or the PTDC (p77) for
Chowk; mains Rs 125-300; hnoon-midnight; a) This up-to-date details.
large, popular restaurant does reliable
Pakistani standards such as chicken jalfrezi SHOPPING
(Rs 175) and mutton pilau (Rs 95). Finish off In Islamabad’s sector shopping centres, the
with the cool mango ice cream (Rs 50). Blue Area and the arcades of top-end hotels,
Kim Fah (Map p78; The Mall; mains Rs 195-310; hnoon- tourist shops have pricey carpets, brasswork,
4pm & 6-11pm; a) Whether it’s chicken with jewellery, Kashmiri shawls, woodcarvings,
lime or a simple egg fried rice, this cosy antiques and assorted handicrafts. Especially
restaurant delights diners with delicious recommended are the numerous well-stocked
Chinese creations. handicraft stores in Super Market.
Cheap DVDs and CDs are found in music
QUICK EATS shops in virtually all of Islamabad’s shop-
Data Kabana (Map p78; Saddar Bazaar; h11am-11pm) ping centres and in the bazaars of Rawalpindi.
This earthy street eatery is the place to pig The quality is hit and miss; most cost around
out on inexpensive, freshly cooked kebabs. Rs 100 each.
It’s located off Haider Rd, just opposite the If you’re on the lookout for imported food-
Ciros Cinema. stuffs and toiletries, good places to begin in-
Scoop Ice Creams (Map p78; cnr Saddar & Haider Rds, clude Jinnah Market, Super Market or Kohsar
Saddar Bazaar; h8am-2pm) Sells various flavours Market in Islamabad.
of velvety ice cream including mango and Sunday Bazaar (Map pp74-5; G-6/4, Islamabad;
choc-chip (from Rs 30). h 7am-8pm Sun) On the block between
Safilo Milkshakes & Juices (Map p78; cnr Saddar & Municipal and Garden Rds in Islamabad’s
Haider Rds, Saddar Bazaar; h8am-2pm) The place to Aabpara, this lively bazaar springs to life most
come for lovely creamy milkshakes (Rs 65). Sundays as a huge handicrafts market with
carpets, leather, jewellery, clothing, Afghan
DRINKING curios and more.
Foreigners can obtain a long-term liquor If you prefer prowling for a bargain in
permit (one month costs Rs 600) from the the rambunctious, people-packed bazaars of
Excise & Tax Department (Map pp74-5; %9271903; Rawalpindi, you’ll find the following items in
Ayub Market, F-8, Islamabad). Bring photocopies some of Pindi’s prominent markets:
of your passport data pages and visa with Clothing & Tailors Rajah and Saddar Bazaars. Off-
entry stamps. You can then purchase alco- the-shelf shalwar kameez (traditional dresslike tunic and
hol from ‘shops’ hidden around the side of trouser combination) start at about Rs 400.
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 86 I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com
Abbreviations:
A = Economy C = Air-conditioned lower E = Air-conditioned sleeper
B = First-class sleeper D = Air-conditioned parlour
deluxe buses (Rs 700) and a 4pm, 7pm and KFC) in Saddar Bazaar, Tipu Rd and Fowara
8pm coaster (Rs 700). Chowk in Rajah Bazaar. They charge about
Another popular northbound operator Rs 10 and take under half an hour in normal
from Pir Wadhai is Silk Route Transport Company traffic. To catch one from the airport, simply
(%5479375), which runs several buses north go out the gate and turn right and you’ll find
to Gilgit (Rs 700) and Hunza (Rs 800). The Suzukis and taxis. A taxi to/from Rawalpindi
trip to Gilgit takes between 14 and 17 hours. is around Rs 150, and it’s Rs 200 to/from
Be aware that departure times and fares may Islamabad. Expect to pay about Rs 100 on
vary with the season. Sit on the right for the top of this at night (after 9pm).
overall best views but perhaps not if you’re
subject to vertigo! Car
Avis has cars for hire in Islamabad through
Train Travel Walji’s (Mappp74-5; %2870201; www.waljis.com;
There’s a Pakistan Railways reservation & in- 10 Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy, Aabpara, Islamabad). A small
formation office (Map p78; %9270895, for inquiries 117; car (with driver) costs Rs 2300 per day (exclud-
h8am-11pm) 300m south of the train station in ing petrol); a 4WD is Rs 1000 per day plus Rs
Saddar Bazaar in Rawalpindi. For a conces- 14 per km; and a van (seating up to 12 people)
sion, go first to the Commercial Department costs Rs 1800 per day plus Rs 9 per km. Note
opposite the main station. There’s a reserva- that some companies may require a minimum
tion & information office (Map pp74-5; %9207474; Civic hire time of one week. You’ll usually need a
Centre, Melody Market, G-6; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Sat-Thu, credit card as a deposit.
9am-1pm & 2.30-5pm Fri) in Islamabad, as well as Another reputable car-hire company is
another office (Map p78; %5542221; Committee Chowk) Safder Tours (%5563153) in Islamabad. For
in Rawalpindi. something cheaper you’ll need to shop around
For long-distance rail services see the table, but be sure to check the small print carefully
above. For a listing of other options, grab a and ensure you get in writing what you’ve
copy of Pakistan Railways’ Time & Fare Table been promised (to avoid potential misunder-
(Rs 25) from the station or click on Pakistan standings later on).
Railways (%117; www.pakrail.com). Note that sev-
eral daily trains go to Peshawar, and some stop
in Taxila en route. It’s also worth noting that
Intercity Transport
Numbered minibuses ply regular routes be-
long-distance trains from the east may arrive
tween the twin cities. They are numerous,
late in Rawalpindi.
cheap and quick, but there doesn’t appear
to be a maximum carrying capacity; no mat-
GETTING AROUND ter how full they may be, there always seems
To/From the Airport to be room to squeeze in one more person.
Suzukis running to the airport from They frantically hustle customers, with blaring
Rawalpindi depart from Adamjee Rd (next to horns and eager conductors, weaving through
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 88 A R O U N D I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • M a r g a l l a Pa s s lonelyplanet.com
Information
AROUND ISLAMABAD & PTDC information booth (%9314206; PTDC Motel;
RAWALPINDI h8am-6pm) Sells books related to the excavations.
There’s another small bookstall at the museum’s ticket
counter.
MARGALLA PASS
Around 27km west of Islamabad, the Grand Sights
Trunk Rd crosses the low-lying Margalla TAXILA MUSEUM
Pass. At the top is a large monument to John This rewarding museum (%9314270; admission
Nicholson, ‘Lion of Punjab’. Nicholson was Rs 200; h8am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm) is closed the
a British soldier-administrator who, at age first Monday of each month and closes early
25, led Pashtun tribesmen against the Sikhs (2pm) during Ramazan (Ramadan). It houses
here in 1848, and died a hero at the Siege of many of the significant finds from the Taxila
Delhi in 1857. Just across the pass is a small site, particularly from the Kushan era. These
segment of the original Kabul to Kolkata include exquisite Buddha sculptures with in-
(Calcutta) road, a forerunner of the Grand triguing Mediterranean faces, temple friezes,
Trunk Rd built by Sher Shah Suri in the silver and bronze artefacts and old coins.
16th century. Photography is prohibited.
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • Ta x i l a 89
To Havelian
(58km)
Sirkap
The Bactrian Greeks began their Taxila, an
To Mohra
1
5
Moradu (2km); orderly walled city, in the 2nd century BC. It
Jaulian (3km)
was later adapted by Scythians and Parthians;
in fact, most of what you can see is Parthian.
Bicycle Shop
Along 500m of the wide main street are foun-
dations of houses, stupas and a small Buddhist
8 temple; at the south end were bigger, wealthier
homes. South of the town are Kunala Stupa
Hindu
Shrine 6 (named for Ashoka’s son) and the remains of
7 two Kushan-era monasteries.
10
2 1
11 4
2
Jandial
3
Bazaar
Train
Station
Near the road north of Sirkap are the ruins
of a classical Greek temple, a place with Ionic
columns in front and the base of what may
To Giri Fortress
14 (3km) have been a Zoroastrian (Parsi) tower in
To Wah Gardens (15km); the rear.
Hasan Abdal (16km);
Peshawar (135km)
INFORMATION Dharmarajika
13
PTDC Information Booth....................1 A2
3 Gr
an
Cantonment Within the huge Dharmarajika stupa, on a hill
d SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
12
Tr
un
kR Bazaar................................................2 A2
several kilometres east of the museum, is an
d Bhir Mound........................................3 A2 original, smaller stupa constructed by Ashoka.
Dharmarajika......................................4 B2
To Islamabad Jandial................................................5 B1
It’s said that it may have been built to house
(27km) Kunala Stupa & Monastery.................6 B2 ashes of the Buddha. Around it are the bases
Monastery..........................................7 B2
Sirkap.................................................8 B2
of statues and small votive stupas, and the re-
Sirsukh................................................9 B1 mains of a monastery complex. In one alcove
Taxila Museum................................10 A2
are the stone feet of what must have been an
SLEEPING immense Buddha statue. Most of what you
PTDC Motel.....................................(see 1)
4 Youth Hostel....................................11 A2 see belongs to the Kushan era.
TRANSPORT
Buses to Peshawar............................12 A3 Sirsukh
Buses to Rawalpindi..........................13 A3 Little of this Kushan city, started in the 1st
Tonga Stand....................................14 A3
century AD, has been excavated, and frankly
there isn’t much to see.
TAXILA EXCAVATIONS
Most of the main sites are within 2km of the Mohra Moradu
museum. There’s a large map of the site out- The isolated Mohra Moradu monastery, dat-
side the museum and each site is signposted ing from the 3rd to the 5th centuries, is in a
from the road and has an information board hollow about 5km northeast of the museum
at its entrance. By car you can see most of and 1km off the road. There is a small, com-
the sites in a short half-day. Walking and/or plete stupa in one monk’s cell, somewhat
taking a sedate tonga will keep you busy for resembling a wedding cake with its multi-
six or seven hours. Entrance to all the sites level base, spire and ‘umbrellas’. This is, in
costs Rs 200. Pay once and retain the ticket, fact, a copy of the original (the original is in
which you need to show at each site to gain the museum).
entry.
Jaulian
Bhir Mound This site is on a hill east of Mohra Moradu. The
This Achaemenian site, inhabited from the 6th stupas are gone but the courtyard and founda-
to 2nd centuries BC, is a mostly unexcavated tions are in good condition. In a security enclo-
mound 300m south of the museum. What has sure near the entrance are the bases of several
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 90 A R O U N D I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • W a h G a r d e n s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
5th-century votive stupas, ornamented with Some buses and Suzukis go on up the road
bas-relief Buddhas, elephants and nymphlike past Sirsukh, Mohra Moradu and the Jaulian
figures. Other stupa bases have equally vivid turn-off. Alternatively, you can hire tongas
carvings. East of the courtyard is a monastery (around Rs 200) and taxis (around Rs 600)
with dozens of closet-sized meditation cells. that hang around the museum to take you
The site caretaker may show you around for a to the sites.
little baksheesh (donation).
WAH GARDENS
TAXILA TOWN About 15km west of Taxila is the site of a
There are several derelict Hindu temples in Mughal camp developed by Emperor Akbar
the bazaar; one near the train station is quite (1556–1605) into a pleasure ground of shim-
grand. Stonework abounds around town, mering pools and pretty gardens. It’s gone to
with many small workshops turning out seed but the rows of ancient cypress and plane
thousands of grinding stones for kitchens trees, the empty canals and the run-down
and garish modern sculptures. pavilions are still stately. It doesn’t really jus-
tify a day trip on its own but it’s a possible
Sleeping & Eating addition to Taxila.
Most people visit Taxila as a day trip from Get on any bus going west on the Grand
Islamabad/Rawalpindi. For those who wish Trunk Rd and ask for Wah Gardens (not
to stay overnight, accommodation is avail- Wah). Fifteen minutes beyond Taxila (10
able, but it’s unremarkable. minutes past the Wah Cantonment turn-off),
Youth Hostel (%9314278; dm members/nonmembers a ‘Mughal Garden Wah’ sign marks a road on
Rs 140/280) Near the museum, this dorm-only the south side of the highway. The gardens are
hostel is basic but adequate for a night or a 10-minute walk down this road.
two and, importantly, the only budget ac-
commodation currently available. HASAN ABDAL
PTDC Motel (%9314205; s/d incl tax Rs 745/994; Pilgrims have been coming to Hasan Abdal
a) Also near the museum. The rooms lack since at least the 7th century, when it was
oomph but are comfortable enough and a Buddhist holy place. On a hill east of the
there’s a restaurant on the premises. village is a shrine to Baba Wali Kandahari, a
15th-century Sufi preacher. Sikhs still come
Getting There & Away from India and beyond to Panja Sahib, a shrine
You can reach Taxila from Rawalpindi’s Pir to Guru Nanak (Baba Wali’s contemporary),
Wadhai by frequent bus or minibus (Rs 25, 40 who was the founder of Sikhism. Most arrive
minutes). The train ride (Rs 15, 50 minutes) in mid-April for the Baisakhi Festival. Legend
is far more pleasant and the train station is has it Baba Wali rolled a boulder aimed at
within walking distance of the museum. You Guru Nanak, who stopped it with one hand.
can also catch a Suzuki or tonga passing from A rock with a handprint at Panja Sahib is said
the bazaar to the train station en route to the to be the very one. There are also abandoned
museum. Several trains pass through on the Hindu temples and several Mughal tombs in
way to/from Havelian or Peshawar. Train the old walled town.
times will vary from the schedule because of From a roundabout on the Grand Trunk
delays elsewhere along the line. In other words, Rd, walk 150m to a fork, bearing right past
expect delays. a post office and a playing field, 500m to an-
Most local transport from Taxila heads other fork. Panja Sahib is left and around the
to Rawalpindi – ask whether your bus is corner; the Mughal tombs are to the right.
going to Saddar, Rajah or Pir Wadhai. Some Beyond the playing field a path climbs for an
Saddar-bound wagons start from Taxila hour to Baba Wali’s shrine.
Bazaar; otherwise, take a minibus or tonga Hasan Abdal is around 20 minutes west of
south to the Grand Trunk Rd and pick up Taxila on any bus that travels the Grand Trunk
transport there. Rd; the bus ticket costs Rs 10 from Taxila.
their summer retreats known as hill stations. south from the post office, is the place to stroll,
In summer the entire Punjab administration eat and shop.
moved up to Murree, and anyone who was
anyone had a villa at Nathiagali or one of the INFORMATION
other hamlets whose names mostly end in gali National Bank (Bank Rd; h9am-1pm & 2-4pm) At
(Hindko Punjabi for ‘pass’). the time of research this bank was changing major foreign
All still show the colonial imprint: neat currencies but not travellers cheques. It’s advisable to bring
bungalows and sprawling guesthouses, with along adequate rupees as backup, given that this is the
prim churches on the heights and raucous only bank in Murree that changes money.
bazaars down on the road. Nowadays, all TDCP Cart Rd (%3410729; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat sum-
summer and on winter weekends the villages mer, 9am-4pm Mon-Sat winter); The Mall (%3412450;
bulge with tourists, and the trees and gabled h8am-3pm Mon-Sat summer, 9am-4pm Mon-Sat winter)
architecture are gradually being engulfed by This is the best source of tourist information and it also sells
drab concrete boxes. The towns are now too a basic map of Murree (Rs 10). The office is located below the
developed for some tastes but the air is brac- Blue Pines Hotel. A small information centre is on the Mall.
ing and clear, and a welcome relief from the
scorching plains in summer. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
While Murree and a few other villages are Before setting off to explore the area, it’s a
in Punjab, many of the further Galis are actu- good idea to pick up a map from the TDCP,
ally just over the line in NWFP. Nevertheless, even though it’s not as detailed as it could be.
we include them because the Galis are geo- From Pindi Point, about 2km southwest of
graphically united and because nearly all their town, you can look out towards Punjab and
visitors come from Islamabad, Rawalpindi ride a chairlift (Rs 190) 3km down to Brewery Rd
and Punjab. and back. Kashmir Point (2260m), the highest
April is pleasant, May and June are hot, place in Murree, looks down a tributary of the
July and August are rainy but warm, and Jhelum River and out beyond the Pir Panjal
September is pleasant again. Summer sea- Range into Kashmir. To get here, take a mini-
son is May to September, peaking in July bus or walk the 3km along Bank Rd.
and August when accommodation prices From Bank Rd, opposite the Murree-Kahuta
spiral upwards due to the influx of tourists. Development Authority office, a walking trail
Snow falls from around December through descends for an hour through woods to the
to February but weekends can still be busy. In Kuldana to Jhikagali road. A branch goes left
winter, the Murree to Abbottabad road may to Kuldana Chowk. From Jhikagali another
be temporarily blocked by snow. forest trail climbs to Kashmir Point. You can
return on the trail or on any minibus to Sunny
Murree Bank (then catch a connection up Cart Rd to
%051 Murree) or Murree’s general bus stand.
Murree sits high above its surroundings, mak-
ing the views panoramic and the air fresh, SLEEPING
but there isn’t much to do apart from stroll Hotel tariffs fluctuate according to supply and
around or shop. A faded colonial aroma lin- demand; they’re higher on summer weekends,
gers, although many ugly concrete towers now lower on weekdays and during winter. Keep
dominate the town. Murree has gradually be- in mind that many places close for the winter
come more and more built-up and congested period. Prices noted here are approximate and
over recent years, which probably explains the hotels will basically charge whatever they can
dwindling number of foreign visitors. Still, get away with. If a hotel does not seem busy,
there are some pretty walks in the area. it’s worth trying to negotiate a better rate.
Following are a smattering of some of the
ORIENTATION better lodgings in Murree, but as new places
Climb up Cart Rd from the general bus stand. keep popping up, let us know if you stumble
Beyond the Blue Pines Hotel there’s a short across any newly opened gems.
cut up through a small bazaar to the Mall, the
town’s main street. British-era Murree rambled Budget
for over 4km along the ridgetop from Pindi Chambers (%3410135; r Rs 350) Although the sim-
Point to Kashmir Point. The Mall, running ple rooms are certainly nothing to write home
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 92 AROUND ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI •• Murree & the Galis Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
about, they aren’t bad at this price and some GETTING THERE & AWAY
have views over the Mall. The general bus stand is down on Cart Rd.
Chinnar Hotel (%3410244; The Mall; d from Rs 400) Minibuses shuttle between Murree and
This no-frills place has poky and nondescript Rawalpindi all day in summer (Rs 40, two
(but bearable) rooms, some with views over hours). Painfully slow buses go to Faizabad
the Mall. and Pir Wadhai for less but they’re not a prac-
Al-Nadeem (%3411879; Cart Rd; d from Rs 500) The tical option compared with the convenience
rooms are sparsely furnished and smallish, of the minibuses.
but this is still one of the better choices in In summer, Daewoo (%3412185; Cart Rd;
Murree’s mundane budget bunch. h8.30am-9.30pm), opposite the TDCP, runs
Numerous similarly priced budget options an air-con service between Murree and
include the following: Rawalpindi (Rs 120, two hours). Several
Grand Residence (%3411434; The Mall) buses a day depart the general bus stand for
Hotel Murree International (%3410173; Cart Rd) Abbottabad (Rs 70, five hours), via Nathiagali.
Marhaba Hotel (%3410185; The Mall) The best views are on the left side.
Tanveer Hotel (%3412082; Cart Rd)
Around Murree
Midrange PATRIATA
Hotel Dilkusha (%3410005; Imtiaz Shaheed Rd; d Rs 500; The TDCP has developed a somewhat kitsch
a) Spacious, comfortable rooms, the tranquil resort 20km southeast of Murree, with restau-
location and pleasant veranda overlooking the rants and a chairlift plus a cable car (Rs 200) from
small garden make this a relaxing midrange Gulehragali, 17km from Murree, to the top of
choice. the 2300m Patriata Peak. Many Suzuki-wallahs
Hotel Taj Mahal (%3411082; d Rs 1000; a) call the place ‘New Murree’ and charge Rs 30
Located off the Mall, this is one of the towers to get to Patriata from Murree’s general bus
that have changed the face of Murree. The stand.
TV-equipped rooms are good-sized and most
have nice views. BHURBAN
Lockwood Hotel (%3410112; Imtiaz Shaheed Rd; Offering less hype and more serenity than
d Rs 2000; a) Colonial Lockwood is a historic nearby Murree is charming Bhurban, a won-
hotel with some buildings dating from 1890. derful city escape. Apart from its picturesque
Although suitably comfortable, the rooms setting, Bhurban has a jolly good nine-hole golf
would benefit from a minor facelift. course and even an upmarket hotel, the Pearl
Brightlands Hotel (%3411170; Imtiaz Shaheed Rd; Continental (www.pchotels.com). There are Suzukis
d Rs 2000; a) One of the glowing highlights of to here from Murree’s general bus stand and
this old hotel are the spacious, airy rooms, all Jhikagali, a couple of kilometres northeast of
with TV – it’s just a shame they are somewhat Murree centre. Bhurban is 15km northeast of
neglected. Murree via Sunny Bank; a taxi from Murree
to Bhurban costs around Rs 280.
EATING
Most of Murree’s hotels have their own restau- The Galis – Murree to Nathiagali
rants, usually dishing up satiating Pakistani sta- Half an hour’s drive north of Murree is
ples, with midrange hotels also often offering Barian, with the biggest bazaar until you reach
a selection of Continental and Chinese dishes. Abbottabad. The Punjab–NWFP border is
The Mall has a number of good fast-food just south of here. Ten minutes on, just before
outlets, while Cart Rd has some cheap, hole- Khairagali, the road begins running along the
in-the-wall curry joints. Also lining the Mall west side of Ayubia National Park. An hour from
are chirpy, good-value restaurants offering al- Murree is Changlagali, at 2800m the highest
most identical Pakistani/Chinese/Continental of the Gali resorts. Ten minutes further, at
menus. The following restaurants (all on the Kuzagali, is the turning to Ayubia, named for
Mall) are especially popular: General Ayub Khan, Pakistan’s military ruler
Lintott’s (mains Rs 130-400) from 1958 to 1969. Along the road there are
Red Onion (mains Rs 195-595) large summer-resort hotels.
Sam’s Restaurant (mains Rs 140-450) At Ghora Dhaka, only five minutes’ drive off
Usmania Restaurant (mains Rs 110-595) the main road, there is a modest bazaar and
© Lonely Planet Publications
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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© Lonely Planet Publications
94
Punjab
Sprawled across the heart of Pakistan, the vibrant state of Punjab (Persian for ‘Five Waters’) is
named after the five rivers of the region – the Sutlej, Ravi, Beas, Jhelum and Chenab. Punjab is
Pakistan’s most verdant province and home to more than half of the nation’s population.
For the visitor Punjab is a treasure trove of experiences, and should be more than a stop
PUNJAB
on the road to or from India. Stepping off in Lahore you will encounter awesome Sufism
(Islamic mysticism) and qawwali (Islamic devotional singing), the Old City and the outlandish
border-closing ceremony. Beyond Lahore, there are sublime shrines and tombs in Multan
and Uch Sharif, ancient forts, the deserts of Cholistan and the Khewra salt mines.
And then, of course, there are the people. Punjabis are a life-loving lot with a long tradition
of warm hospitality that comes straight from the heart. Few travellers leave here without a
bundle of precious memories, an address book filled with new friends, and oodles of food
for thought.
HIGHLIGHTS
Soul tripping in Lahore to one of the most phenomenal
qawwali and Sufi expositions (p104) on the planet
Joining pumped-up patriots as they watch burly
Pakistani soldiers try to out-stomp, out-scowl and
out-salute their ‘rival’ Indian counterparts at the Khewra
fascinating closing-of-the-border ceremony
(p120) at Wagah
Lahore Wagah
Rambling through the tangle of twisting alley-
ways in Lahore’s Old City (p105) en route to the
historic Lahore Fort (p102) and the city’s stun-
ning 17th-century Badshahi Mosque (p103) Multan
Exploring the bevy of beautiful shrines and
tombs of Multan (p128) and Uch Sharif (p127) Uch Sharif
PUNJAB
border slicing between Punjab’s two major
cities – Amritsar (in present-day India) and Climate
Lahore (in Pakistan). It was clear that Punjab The ideal time to visit is between November
contained all the ingredients for an epic dis- and March, when the weather is delightful
PUNJAB 0
0
100 km
60 miles
Mardan Muzaffarabad
AZAD JAMMU
H
Attock
KK
Peshawar Hasan & K A S H M I R Srinagar
Attock Fort
Abdal Murree trol
AFGHANISTAN Con
Kohat Taxila ISLAMABAD INDIA
Rawalpindi
f
Line o
ay
Mandra
torw
Kalabagh
an
Dina
Mirpur
d
Talagang
Chakwal Rohtas Border
Fort Jhelum Crossing
Kallar Closed
Kahar Choa Saidan
Tr
Jammu
un
Ketas Shah
NORTH - WEST Mianwali Gujrat
k
FRONTIER Khewra
Khushab Wazirabad Sialkot
PROVINCE
er
Riv
Rd
Sargodha
River
M Gujranwala
oto
Dera Ismail Khan rw
ay
ab
en Sheikhupura
Jhelum
Ch Chiniot
LAHORE
Zhob
r
Amritsar
Rive
er
Wagah
Riv
Faisalabad
Jhang
Sharakpur
Changa Manga Sharif Border
Hwy
Nankana
Indus
vi
Firozpur
ge
Ra
BALOCHISTAN Shorkot
Harappa Okara
Ran
Harappa
Kot Village Hwy Sahiwal
Addu
r
l
ona
ve
To Loralai (5km);
Nati
Ri
Choti
Head
ima
Bahawalpur
Uch Lal Suhanra INDIA
Sule
Khanpur Derawar
Fort
Rahim Yar
d us Khan Cholistan
In Bhong (Desert)
Mosque
Sukkur
SINDH Bikaner The external boundaries of Pakistan & India
on this map have not been authenticated
and may not be correct
96 LAHORE •• History lonelyplanet.com
during the day (around 9°C to 26°C), ena- has some of the most defiantly serene archi-
bling you to do some serious stomping tecture and gardens on the subcontinent. It
around without working up too much of a takes more than just a couple of days to get
sweat. In December and January the nights to know this splendid city, so don’t regard it
can get surprisingly cold (a warm sleeping bag merely as a jumping-off point to nearby India.
can be a saviour for those staying in budget And whatever you do, make absolutely sure
hotels). October and March are still pleas- your stay in Lahore includes an afternoon on
ant enough, but the days can get quite warm. the outskirts in Wagah (p120) and at least one
Temperatures at other times of the year are Thursday – see the boxed text, p104.
hot, and at the height of summer often exceed
40°C. Humidity during the monsoon (around HISTORY
July to late September) can create a fatiguing, Lahore has been the capital of Punjab for most
steambath-like environment. of the last millennium. Lying on a strategic
trade route between the subcontinent and
Central Asia, but with little natural protection,
LAHORE its history is a repeating pattern of capture,
destruction and rebuilding. Its origins and
%042 / pop 8,896,000 most of its pre-Islamic history are shrouded in
Although Lahore may not be Pakistan’s capital legend. One story relates that it was founded
city, it wins hands down as its cultural, intel- by and named after Loh, son of Rama, hero
lectual and artistic hub. If history and archi- of the Hindu epic Ramayana. Another is that
tecture are your passion there’s an evocative the name comes from the ancient word loha
mix, from formidable Mughal monuments to (iron), which suggests that it may have been
faded legacies of the British Raj. Indeed, even strongly fortified.
a ramble around the Old City can unfold into The first reliable reference to Lahore is in
a mini-adventure. For those in search of spir- the writings of the Chinese traveller Xuan
itual sustenance, Lahore has qawwali (Islamic Zang, who passed through in AD 630. By
devotional singing) and Sufism (Islamic mys- the time Mahmud of Ghazni, its first Muslim
ticism) that will blow your mind. ruler, invaded in 1021, Lahore was under the
Pakistan is crazy about cricket and one way rule of a Brahmin king. Mahmud faced con-
of breaking the ice with Lahorites is to strike up siderable problems retaining the city, but he
a conversation about the game. Lahore – which, proved triumphant and it became a regional
incidentally, is home to former cricket great capital in 1036 and then the capital of the
turned politician Imran Khan – sometimes entire Ghaznavid empire until 1186.
serves as the venue for high-profile international For more than three centuries Lahore passed
matches. If there’s one on during your stay it’s through the hands of a succession of rival dy-
worth experiencing it as much for its wildly nasties and was under constant threat of attack
ecstatic spectators as for the game itself. by Mongols. Relative peace with the Mughals
Over the years Lahore has burgeoned into a came after Babur seized the city in 1524. Akbar,
bustling and increasingly polluted metropolis the third Mughal emperor, made his headquar-
with festering social undercurrents, but it also ters here from 1584 to 1598. The later Mughal
lonelyplanet.com LAHORE •• Orientation 97
emperors Jehangir and Shah Jahan also held essential detail. Superior maps can be found at
court here. Aurangzeb, the last great Mughal the major city bookshops (see below).
emperor, didn’t spend much time in Lahore and
the empire was already beginning to crumble INFORMATION
when he died in 1707. Lahore was then fought Bookshops
over by feuding Mughals and the Sikhs before Lahore has some fabulous bookshops,
eventually being captured in 1759 by an Afghan, with most stocking a selection of maps as
Ahmad Shah Durrani. The power shifted to well as international publications such as
the Sikhs, headed by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, Time, the Economist and the International
from 1799 to 1839. After Singh’s death in 1839 Herald Tribune.
the region plunged into a power vacuum, soon Classic (Map p100; 42 The Mall) A good collection,
filled by the British, who seized it in 1846. especially of magazines. International newspapers and
Since Partition, Lahore’s relative prosperity magazines ordered on request; these take up to 10 days
and stability have lured a proliferating (and to arrive.
PUNJAB
occasionally unmanageable) number of mi- Ferozson’s (Map p100; 60 The Mall) One of the biggest
grants. So far it has coped exceedingly better bookshops in Pakistan; an excellent range including novels,
with social and sectarian pressures than many glossy coffee-table books and a brilliant selection of maps
other parts of Pakistan. and magazines. Highly recommended.
Kim’s Bookshop (Map p100; Lahore Museum) Specifi-
ORIENTATION cally caters to tourists, which accounts for its commend-
One of Lahore’s major central streets is The able selection of novels and general-interest books about
Mall (renamed Shahrah-i-Quaid-i-Azam but Pakistan. It also sells good postcards (Rs 10 to Rs 20).
still commonly referred to as The Mall), cross- Mavra (Map p100; 60 The Mall) Stocks the usual selection
ing the city northwest to southeast. of books and magazines.
Central Lahore’s main crossroads, officially Vanguard Books (Map p100; 45 The Mall) You can get
nameless but often referred to as Charing maps and magazines here but the books are mainly of the
Cross, is at the intersection of The Mall and educational genre.
Fatima Jinnah Rd. North of here, the Old City
is a tangle of narrow streets and contains a Consulates
number of tourist attractions. Southeast Iranian Consulate (Map p98; %9283347-55; 55 Shad-
is the suburb of Gulberg, one of Lahore’s man-II, Jail Rd; hvisa deptartment 9am-5pm Mon-Thu)
smartest residential areas, with swish shops Will issue a visa if you have an invitation letter from an
and restaurants. Iranian citizen, resident in Iran. Without such a letter, you
Many of Lahore’s streets (primarily those need to apply in Islamabad, which will take a few days.
with Raj-era connotations) have been renamed
in recent years: two examples are Empress Rd, Cultural Centres
now named Shahrah-i-Bin Badis, and Queen’s British Council (Map p100; %111424424; www
Rd, renamed Fatima Jinnah Rd. Many locals .britishcouncil.org.pk; 65 Mozang Rd; h9.30am-5pm
still use the old names as a matter of habit. In Mon-Fri) Telephone, or click on its website for current
this chapter we’ve gone with the names most information about what this council does.
commonly used by Lahorites. The Gulberg
Main Blvd is sometimes shortened to Main Emergency
Gulberg or Main Blvd. If you’re in a sticky situation get to a phone
Allama Iqbal International Airport is about and dial the police emergency number (%15;
6km east of the city centre, while the main h24hr).
train station (Lahore City Railway Station)
is just a couple of kilometres north of The Foreigners’ Registration
Mall. For details on getting around Lahore, Foreigners’ Registration Office (FRO; Map p100;
see p119. %9202113; Capital City Police Headquarters Bldg,
Queen’s Rd) Only nationals of 16 countries are required to
Maps register – see p378.
Lahore’s Pakistan Tourism Development
Corporation (PTDC; see p101) office has give- Internet Access
away maps of Lahore and other destinations in The vast majority of internet outlets have closed
Pakistan, although some are outdated and lack in recent years due to minuscule margins and
98 LAHORE lonelyplanet.com
LAHORE 0
0 1 mile
2 km
A B C D
INFORMATION Ejaz Galleries......................(see 19) EATING
Shahdara Bagh Department of Tourist Fortress Stadium................(see 30) Café Aylanto.......................18 C5
Grand
2 Lachhman
Riv
Badami Bagh
Singh Railway Station
Ra
Iqbal
vi
Park Amritsar
Rd
Baghbanpura (50km)
See Central Lahore Map (p100)
Circ 13
vi
Rd
ular Faiz Bagh Trunk
Ra
Rd Grand
Sultanpura Rd
Old City
Lahore City Rd
Railway Trunk
Grand
Shalimar Link Rd
Station
Circu Naulakha
d
lar
dR
Rd
all
Rd
Bun
Anarkali
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Gowal Mandi
3
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(Sh Faisal Al Railway
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4
B
2
Tufail Rd
Samanabad 36 30
Zafar Ali Rd Gu 7
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ur R
Sir d
1 Market Cantonment
Maratab Gulberg
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21 Airport
Al
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32 20
Rd
Blv
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Gronanget Rd
29 33 16 22
Rd
Fa
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Gulshan-i- 26
Iqb
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Town New
l
Stadium Rd
lt
au
erg
Liberty
Mu
Garden 6 28
5
M
lb Market
d
3 Town 34 Gu P
Allama Punjab University ark R ENTERTAINMENT
Kalma d Hussain
Iqbal (New Campus) Chowk Chowk Cinema....................................(see 30)
Town National Hockey Stadium...........28 B5
t Rd
d
d
d
Wa
nR
iR
an
Upper Dari
lB
Tow
sm
na
Doab Canal
Fer
U
Ca
SHOPPING
ad
del
ozp
Walton
hm
Railway
ur R
rA
fe
nc
h
aS
d
lam
M Al Faisal Model Town Liberty Market.........................(see 16)
au Park Model
Rd
la
na Town Mini Market.............................(see 19)
10
on
6
Sh a
TRANSPORT
ukat
Airblue.......................................33 C5
Ali R
Daewoo.....................................34 B5
Minibus Route 43
Emirates.....................................35 C5
d
To Kasur
Kot Lakhpat (65km) Gulf Air......................................36 C4
lonelyplanet.com LAHORE •• Information 99
numerous operators transforming them into moneychangers are open. Moneychangers are
pornography dens coming to the attention of bunched around Cooper Rd, some just north-
the mullahs (Muslim religious leaders) and the west of Holiday Inn, and also scattered along
law. Outside top-end hotels, broadband access The Mall, but the rates are not always as good
is rare, with most outlets relying on relatively as the banks’ rates, so it pays to check.
slow dial-up connections. Due to a fraudulent travellers-cheque
Pak Telecom Building (Map p100; Central Telegraph & racket some years back, many banks and
Telephone Office, 1 McLeod Rd; per hr Rs 20, to print/scan private moneychangers refuse to change
a page Rs 10/25; h9am-10pm Sat-Thu, 9am-1pm & cheques without presentation of the original
2-10pm Fri) A spacious, good-value place. purchase receipt.
Regale Internet Inn (Map p100; Surriaya Mansion, Lahore has a burgeoning number of
Regal Lane, 65 The Mall; per hr Rs 20, to print/scan a page 24-hour ATMs accepting Cirrus, Maestro,
Rs 10; %8am-midnight) Another good-value option, this MasterCard and Visa (but not always all
guesthouse welcomes nonguests. cards); these can be found around The Mall
PUNJAB
and at Gulberg, among other areas.
Laundry Some reliable places to change money
Most upmarket hotels have an in-house laun- include:
dry, while midrange and budget places usually American Express (Map p100; %111786111; 112 Rafi
use the dhobi (washerperson) system. Dhobis Mansion, The Mall; h9am-noon Mon-Thu, 9-11am Fri
should charge between Rs 40 and Rs 70 to & Sat) You can only change American Express travellers
wash and press a shirt or pair of trousers. cheques (no currency or other travellers-cheque brands)
here. The staff are efficient and courteous.
Libraries Citibank (Map p100; %111444444; Charing Cross;
Jinnah Library (Map p100; %920337; Bagh-i-Jinnah; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-12.30pm Fri, 9am-1.30pm
h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) Situated in a restful garden, this Sat) Changes major currencies and travellers cheques,
is a calm retreat for those seeking solitude. This beautiful charging a 2% commission on non-Citicorp cheques. Secure
building squeezes in more than 110,000 books and also 24-hour ATM.
has a newspaper room with Pakistani and foreign titles Wall Street Exchange (Map p100; %6307770; 15-17
(including Time and the International Herald Tribune). Naqi Arcade, The Mall; %9.30am-6pm Mon-Thu, 1-3pm
Fri) A reputable moneychanger with longer opening hours.
Media Western Union (Map p100;%111786111; c/o Ameri-
You can buy the daily English-language news- can Express, 112 Rafi Mansion, The Mall; h9am-1pm &
papers Dawn, the News, the Nation and the 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Arranges speedy money
Daily Times from most city bookshops and transfers – ready for collection an hour after
newsstands. Apart from local and interna- your sender makes the deposit. To collect funds, first present
tional news, they contain useful listings of your passport and the transfer code (ask your sender for
current cultural events, cinema screenings and this). There are other Western Union branches in Lahore.
other happenings of interest to the visitor.
Jinnah Library (above) has a range of local Post
and international newspapers and magazines DHL (Map p98; %111500000; Mini Market, Gulberg;
but they can only be read on-site. h9am-1pm & 2-10.30pm) A reliable place for fast air
freight worldwide.
Medical Services Main post office (GPO; Map p100; %9211318; The
The most reputable ambulance service is run Mall; h9am-1pm & 1.30-9pm Mon-Sat) Has all the
by Edhi (%115; h24hr). The charge is Rs 50 for usual postal services, including poste restante. Men sitting
the first 10km and Rs 5 for each additional outside will sew up parcels in cheap linen on the spot (Rs
kilometre (Rs 8 if ex-Lahore). 50 to Rs 150 depending on the parcel’s size).
These hospitals have good reputations:
Mayo Hospital (Map p100; %9211101; Gowal Mandi) Telephone
Sheikh Zaid Hospital (Map p98; %5865731; Canal For cheap local, interstate and international
Bank Rd) Adjacent to Punjab University (New Campus). telephone calls go to one of the city’s numer-
ous staffed street booths. Prepaid mobile SIM
Money cards are cheap and plentiful across Lahore –
Beyond standard business hours, only the air- you will need your passport to activate
port banks and a handful of authorised private it once purchased. Another good-value
100 L A H O R E • • C e n t r a l L a h o re lonelyplanet.com
CENTRAL LAHORE 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
Iqbal Park
Qila
Ra
45
Singh Th 69
23 e 4
M
Hall R
Rd
all 54
Circlular Rd (S h
n
ah 58
da
74 rah
Be
-i - Q 68 Regal
25 uai 42
La
64 d-i- Chowk
Azadi 59 A zam
al
)
Reg
Chowk 51
Lahore Masti Mosque
Law Rd
Gate 63
Rd le
Fort Kashmiri
mp
ren
17 39 15
Gate
Te
ce
55
18 Sheranwala
Taksali Gate Cir
cu
Gate la
rR
Moti 67 Langay Yakki
d
Heera Bazaar 66 Bazaar Gate
Mandi
PUNJAB
Gumti Faiz
Gr
Bazaar 28 Bagh
an
24
d
Delhi
Tr
un
Old City Gate (G
k
20 T)
Rd
pura
tan
Sul Rd
d
nda R Shah
a Sa Alam Akbari
Puran 26 Bhatti
Gate Bazaar Gate 65
Lahore City
Lahore Rd Mochi Railway
Mori Lohari 72 Station
Gate Gate Gate
d
36 Brand y R 35
lar Rd reth R lwa 48
50 Shah Circu d Rai
Alam
Urdu Gate
Hos p i t a
Alla
kali Rd
Bazaar 75
d
ma
d R
Punjab University
(Old Campus) Naulakha
Rd
Iqb
lR
A n ar
ma
Anarkali
d
al
10 Gowal Mandi
am
d
Anarkali's Tomb & Bazaar
Leo
Rd
(Food Street)
New
Punjab Secretariat Ni
Mu
Shahrah-i-Bin B
Rd
Mc
sb
et son
hol
Dil
Ni c
Rd
43
Abd Punjab University 47
al i R (Old Campus) Bank 41 34
d Square
29
Anarkali's Tomb & Anarkali
adis (Empress Rd)
Punjab Secretariat
21 Lukshmi
Chowk 40 52 Qila Shah 77
46 Faisal
60 T 11 (Laxami)
Rd Ma
McLeod hm 33
he
9 56 ud
Hall Rd
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d Co 61 navi (
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M on
Krishan 70
id -
Rd
Nagar i-A
za m
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Provincial Shimla
Fan
1 Eger House
37
See Enlargement Charing 76 71
78
M
Cross
d
a
Dav
oz
e R
13 32
73 62
ng
Rd 7
is R
Lak
12
d
16
Mozang 57
Governor's
House
La
Lahore
w
Zoo
Rd
Mozang
re
nc
Bazaar
G ha
ple
2 r
Rd
da
Tem
zi I
8 Sun Rd
Chor The Das
lam
Burji
d
Ma
R
Di
ll
's)
n
Rd
een
d Bagh-i-Jinnah
nR
lta (Lawrence Gardens)
( Qu
Mu 49
n ah
Ba
h aw
alp
Jin
ur a
Rd im
Fat
d
eR
urs
Co
ce
Ra
PUNJAB
Tourism Development Corporation of Indus Hotel............................... 42 D1 TRANSPORT
Punjab (Main Office)............ 13 C5 Lahore Hotel............................. 43 C4 Air Canada.............................(see 70)
Vanguard Books....................... 14 C1 Leaders Inn Hotel..................... 44 C4 Air France...............................(see 78)
Wall Street Exchange................15 D1 Lords Hotel...............................45 C1 Ali Complex............................. 70 D4
Western Union.........................(see 1) National Hotel.......................... 46 C4 British Airways.......................... 71 C5
Orient Hotel............................. 47 C4 Bus & Minibus Stands............... 72 D3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Parkway................................... 48 D3 Cathay Pacific Airways............(see 70)
Alhamra Arts Centre................. 16 C5 Pearl Continental...................... 49 D6 Indian Airlines.........................(see 30)
Badshahi Mosque......................17 A1 Queen's Way Hotel..................50 B3 International Tours....................73 B5
Begum Shah Mosque................18 B2 Regale Internet Inn....................51 D1 KLM – Royal Dutch Airlines.....(see 78)
Cathedral Church of the United Hotel............................. 52 C4 Kenya Airways........................(see 70)
Resurrection..........................19 B4 Lufthansa Airlines...................(see 32)
Faqir Khana Museum................20 A2 EATING Main Bus Stand.........................74 B1
Lahore Museum....................... 21 A4 Bundu Khan..............................53 B4 Malaysian Airlines...................(see 76)
Lahore Polo Club...................... 22 D6 Chaman....................................54 B4 Minibus Stand.......................... 75 D3
Minar-i-Pakistan.......................23 A1 Cooco's Den & Café.................55 B2 PIA........................................... 76 C5
Mosque of Wazir Khan............. 24 C2 Cookers....................................56 B4 Railways Headquarters............. 77 D4
Samadhi of Maharaja Ranjit Singh & Dumpukht..............................(see 49) Shaheen Air International.......(see 70)
Gurdwara of Arjan Dev.........25 B1 Eat & Sip...................................57 C5 Singapore Airlines...................(see 70)
Shrine of Data Ganj Bakhsh Faluda Shop.............................. 58 D1 Thai Airways...........................(see 30)
Hajveri..................................26 A2 Fiesta......................................(see 54) Wapda House.......................... 78 C5
Summit Minar........................... 27 C5
option is Pak Telecom Building’s Central Lahore and other Pakistani destinations. It also sells some
Telegraph & Telephone Office (see p99 tourist-related books and videos.
for details), opposite the main post office. Tourism Development Corporation of Punjab
Midrange and top-end hotels usually crank (TDCP; Map p100; %9201189; http://tdcp.punjab.gov
up telephone charges. .pk, [email protected]; 4A Lawrence Rd; h8am-
3pm Mon-Sat) Deals with statewide tourism matters. It
Tourist Information has another (smaller) branch in the Old City, just inside
Department of Tourist Services (Government of Delhi Gate.
Pakistan, Ministry of Tourism; Map p98; %5757558;
24C Canal Park, Gulberg; h8am-1pm & 2-3pm Mon-Fri, Travel Agencies
8am-12.30pm Fri) If you experience any tourist-related Lahore has scores of agencies, especially on
problems anywhere in Punjab you can lodge a complaint at The Mall, at Wapda House and around Shimla
this office, which has the authority to investigate and take Hill. With this ever-multiplying number of
appropriate action. It also has a list of registered (reput- agencies (some with dubious reputations), it’s
able) hotels, travel agencies and tour operators. a good idea to select one that’s a member of
Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation an accredited association such as the Travel
(PTDC; Map p98; %5756737; www.tourism.gov.pk; 66- Agents Association of Pakistan (TAAP). Shop
D-1, Gulberg III; h9am-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon around to get the most competitive prices.
Fri) It’s hardly worth making the trip here as the staff’s You may also like to contact the Department
knowledge and enthusiasm is limited. However, the situa- of Tourist Services (see left), which main-
tion could well improve during the life of this book. On the tains an updated list of reliable, registered
plus side, this office can make reservations at PTDC hotels agencies. Many agencies have also become
throughout the country and it has a giveaway map of 24-hour operations.
102 L A H O R E • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s lonelyplanet.com
Iqbal
Park Rd SP
rcular
SP Ci Cir
PUNJAB
cu
lar
Rd
Entrance
24
Samadhi of 20 22
Maharaja Shah 13 Ravi R
Ranjit Singh 21 iver (D
Burj 16 ry)
& Gurdwara Gate 8
of Arjan Dev 10 15 23
14
4
12
Toilet
9 3
Alamgiri 18 17 19
Gate 5
11
6 1
Badshahi 7
Mosque 2
26 Roshanai
Gate
25 Masti
Gate
27
Begum
28 Shah
Mosque
Old
City
Heera
Mandi
swords, daggers, spears and arrows; the Sikh Badshahi Mosque (Map p100; hsunrise-sunset), op-
Gallery predominantly houses rare oil paint- posite the main gateway to the Lahore Fort,
ings; and the Mughal Gallery includes among its is one of the world’s largest mosques. Replete
exhibits old manuscripts, calligraphy, coins with huge gateways, four tapering minarets of
and miniature paintings, as well as an ivory red sandstone, three vast marble domes and
miniature model of India’s Taj Mahal. an open courtyard said to hold up to 100,000
To better understand the fort’s history people, it was damaged by the British and later
you can hire a guide for Rs 150. In addition, restored. The rooms (admission Rs 5) above the en-
Lahore Fort, Pakistan’s Glorious Heritage, a trance gate are said to house hairs of the Prophet
colour booklet by Muhammad Ilyas Bhatti, Mohammed and other relics. The mosque looks
sells here for Rs 150. lovely when it’s illuminated in the evening.
An autorickshaw/taxi from The Mall to In 1991 the mosque grabbed international
Lahore Fort should cost about Rs 80/200. headlines when hardline mullahs protested
at the visit of the late Princess of Wales; her
Badshahi Mosque skirt was considered too short and the direc-
Completed in 1674 under Aurangzeb as the tor of the mosque was criticised for present-
Mughals’ final architectural fling, the sublime ing (the then) HRH, a non-Muslim, with a
104 L A H O R E lonelyplanet.com
to pay the shoeminder Rs 3 to Rs 5 when you retrieve them (keep small change handy).
copy of the Quran and allowing her into the Old City
sacred precincts while immodestly dressed. Old Lahore sprawls at the foot of the fort. It
The case went to court and ended with the comprises narrow, snaking alleys surrounded
litigant mullahs being ordered to stop wasting by a 9m-high wall with 13 gates, with sections
the judge’s time. closely resembling the way they would have
In the courtyard stands the Tomb of Allama been back in Mughal times. It’s a brilliant
Mohammed Iqbal, a modest memorial in red place in which to get lost (as you probably
sandstone to the philosopher-poet who will); a good way to relocate yourself is to go
in the 1930s first postulated the idea of an back to one of the main gates. Delhi Gate in
independent Pakistan. the east leads past the 17th-century Royal Baths
An autorickshaw/taxi from The Mall is (now a small TDCP office) to the Mosque
Rs 80/200. of Wazir Khan and Sunehri Masjid (Golden
Mosque). Bhatti Gate in the southwest leads
Samadhi of Maharaja Ranjit Singh &
PUNJAB
to the Faqir Khana Museum and eventually to
Gurdwara of Arjan Dev Heera Mandi, the dancing girls’ quarter and red-
Located outside the Lahore Fort, this light district. (Many dancing girls are essen-
samadhi (shrine; Map p100) commemorates tially prostitutes, but as prostitution is illegal
the founder of the short-lived Sikh empire, they have assumed the title of ‘dancing girls’.
Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The ashes of the ma- They argue that this falls in the domain of
haraja lie in a lotus-shaped urn inside a small ‘performing artists’, which is perfectly legal!)
brick pavilion. Masti Gate in the north leads to the Begum
In the same compound is the Gurdwara of Shah Mosque (1614), named after Maryam
Arjan Dev, Sikhism’s fifth guru. Created by Zamani, the mother of Emperor Jehangir. If
Maharaja Ranjit Singh, this is Lahore’s largest you’re keen to visit Heera Mandi it’s advisable
gurdwara (Sikh temple) and is an important to go in a group as it can sometimes be a bit
pilgrimage site for Sikhs. Non-Sikhs are not seedy after dark.
permitted entry to certain areas. The Old City has been funded for restora-
Men and women must cover their heads tion of dilapidated areas under the Lahore
and remove their shoes. Tobacco is strictly Walled City Project, which will take place
prohibited. over the coming years. The following sights
An autorickshaw/taxi from The Mall costs are located on Map p100.
around Rs 80/200.
SUNEHRI MASJID (GOLDEN MOSQUE)
Minar-i-Pakistan & Iqbal Park The small Sunehri Masjid (Golden Mosque),
Soaring into the sky in Iqbal Park, the 60m- in the centre of the Old City, was built in 1753
high Minar-i-Pakistan was built in 1960. It by Bikhari Khan and is famous for its three
commemorates the signing of the Pakistan gilded domes and gold-plated minarets, still
Resolution on 23 March 1940 by the All India shining as brightly as ever.
Muslim League, which paved the way for the An autorickshaw/taxi from The Mall to
founding of Pakistan. Sunehri Masjid costs Rs 60/150.
Marble tablets around the base record the
text of the resolution, as well as the 99 at- MOSQUE OF WAZIR KHAN
tributes of Allah, passages from the Quran At the eastern end of the Old City, 250m
and works of Allama Iqbal and Mohammed inside Delhi Gate, is this deteriorating but
Ali Jinnah, the two most important figures of beautifully tiled mosque. It was founded in
the Pakistani independence movement. the 17th century by Sheikh Ilm-ud-Din Ansari
A lift and stairs once took visitors to the (also known as Wazir Khan), the royal phy-
top of the Minar for the spectacular views sician and later governor of Punjab during
of Lahore Fort, however, they were recently the reign of Shah Jahan. This was once an
closed due to the high rate of suicides. In the important centre for training Islamic callig-
late afternoon, Iqbal Park attracts a throng of raphers. The small, crumbling mosque has
people who gather here for a stroll or to play an evocative, deserted feel to it and is worth
cricket, fly kites or just hang out. visiting for this reason alone.
An autorickshaw/taxi from The Mall to An autorickshaw/taxi from The Mall to this
Iqbal Park costs about Rs 80/200. mosque should cost Rs 60/150.
106 L A H O R E • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com
Napier, it has a collection of grand buildings period, articles from Moenjodaro, Harappa
in the Mughal-Gothic style characteristic of and other Indus Valley civilisation sites and
the British Raj. Most are now institutes or its magnificent collection of coins from the
government offices. Achaemenian period onwards.
At its western end is the large cannon Kim’s Bookshop (in the museum compound)
called Zamzama, the Lahore Museum and stocks an interesting collection of novels and
the old campus of Punjab University. On general-interest books (see p97).
the Upper (eastern) Mall is the pleasant
Bagh-i-Jinnah and the Lahore Zoo. To give ZAMZAMA (KIM’S GUN)
you an idea of costs, an autorickshaw/taxi
from the Upper Mall to Delhi Gate is about He sat in defiance of municipal orders,
Rs 60/150; to the main train station it’s Rs astride the gun Zam-Zammah on her
70/150; to Bhatti Gate around Rs 70/150; brick platform opposite the old Ajaib-
and to Sherakot it’s Rs 120/300. Many trav- Gher – The Wonder House, as the Na-
PUNJAB
ellers stay on or near The Mall – for useful tives call the Lahore Museum. Who
local bus details see p119. hold Zam-Zammah hold the Punjab;
for the great green-bronze piece is
CHURCHES always first of the conqueror’s loot.
The (Anglican) Cathedral Church of the Resur- Rudyard Kipling, Kim
rection (Map p100; The Mall) has an English-language
Communion service at 8am and 5pm on This mighty cannon, made famous at the
Sunday. There are several other churches start of Rudyard Kipling’s classic 1901 novel,
in Lahore. was originally named Zamzama, meaning
‘Lion’s Roar’, and sits on the medium strip
SUMMIT MINAR in front of the Lahore Museum. It was used
In a park at Charing Cross, commemorat- in various battles by the Afghan Durranis
ing the Islamic Summit Conference held and then the Sikhs, before being brought
in Lahore in 1974, is Summit Minar (Map p100; to Lahore by Maharaja Ranjit Singh as a
admission free; h10am-1pm & 4-8pm Sat-Thu summer, symbol of his conquests. Kipling’s father
10am-1pm & 3-6pm Sat-Thu winter). Underneath the was the first curator of the Lahore Museum.
minar – a tall, slender marble column – is a Kipling himself worked at the now defunct
vaulted cellar housing gifts from the coun- Civil & Military Gazette in Lahore from 1882
tries that attended the conference. Twenty to 1887.
stone slabs at the base of the pillar bear in-
scriptions of the word Allah. Outside is a BAGH-I-JINNAH (LAWRENCE GARDENS)
pavilion with a glass case housing a Quran A central place to slow the pace and chat to
inscribed in gold leaf. locals is pleasant Bagh-i-Jinnah (Map p100; The Mall;
admission free; h8am-10pm). There’s an open-air
LAHORE MUSEUM theatre that has frequent nightly performances
Try to set aside a couple of hours to make the (in Urdu or Punjabi) and the attractive British
most of a visit to the superb Lahore Museum (Map building in the centre of the park now houses
p100; The Mall; admission Rs 100, plus camera/video/camera Jinnah Library (see p99).
stand Rs 10/50/15; h9am-5pm Sun-Thu, closed first Mon of
each month), which has exhibits spanning the re- LAHORE ZOO
corded history of the subcontinent. Part of the Near Bagh-i-Jinnah, behind a large gateway
collection was removed to India after Partition adorned with a colourful animal mural, Lahore
but this is still the biggest and perhaps most Zoo (Map p100; admission Rs 10; h8am-5pm) is one of
impressive museum in Pakistan. the oldest zoos on the subcontinent. It was
The museum has almost 20 galleries with founded in 1872 and includes a variety of bird
items dating from the Stone Age to the 20th species along with lions, elephants, monkeys,
century. It’s particularly famous for its display leopards, giraffes, tigers and more. The gar-
of Gandharan sculpture (especially the haunt- dens themselves are of almost as much interest
ing Fasting Buddha), manuscripts, Qurans, as the animals and contain a wide range of
its sensational array of miniature paintings, plants and trees, some believed to date back
carpets, various pieces of art from the Islamic to the 16th century.
108 L A H O R E • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com
Chughtai Museum Trust, Mian Salah Mimar Lane, 4 Garden sofas, that is a perfect place to cool your heels over a
Town, Lahore) in advance. It’s also probably a steaming cup of coffee (Rs 50).
good idea to phone just ahead of your visit to
make sure someone is there. Golf
Gymkhana Club (Map p98; %5756690, golf depart-
Prince Kamran Baradari Park ment 5750301; Upper Mall; nonmembers Rs 1000, caddie
The baradari (summer pavilion) of Prince Rs 200, equipment hire Rs 600; h5am-sunset) Tee off
Kamran, son of the first Mughal emperor with Lahore’s society set at this exclusive club’s private
Zahiruddin Babur, stands on a small island golf course.
in the Ravi River (the river is on the northern Lahore Garrison Golf Country Club (Map p98;
outskirts of town). When it was completed %6660016; cnr New Airport & Choudhary Amjad Rds;
in 1540 the Ravi was several hundred metres nonmembers 18 holes Rs 700, caddie 18 holes Rs 150,
away and the baradari was in a large garden equipment hire Rs 400; h5am-around 11pm) Located
adjacent to the town. Its two storeys still open
PUNJAB
near the airport, the greens here are also in
to a 12-columned vaulted veranda (baradari tip-top condition.
literally means 12 gates). These days a great
deal of its former romance has disappeared Polo & Horseriding Lessons
and few travellers make the trip here. Lahore Polo Club (Map p100; %6310285; www
If water levels are not too low, rowing boats .lahorepolo.com; Race Course Park; polo lessons Rs 3000
make the return trip from the Lahore side per month) This club offers polo lessons of one hour per
for Rs 25 per person (minimum 10 people). day; advance bookings essential. Horseriding and tent
Alternatively, you can negotiate a fare for pegging classes are also available.
smaller groups.
Swimming
ACTIVITIES The prices given below are on a per-day basis
Art Galleries & Performing Arts unless otherwise specified. Some hotels slap
Alhamra Art Gallery (Map p98; %9230791; Qaddafi on a 15% tax (not included here).
Stadium, Ferozpur Rd, Gulberg; h8am-1pm & 2-6pm Ambassador (Map p100; %6316820; 7 Davis Rd; Rs 500)
Mon-Sat) This gallery, not to be confused with the Alhamra Avari (Map p100; %6365366; 87 The Mall; Rs 500)
described below, houses Lahore’s largest permanent Holiday Inn (Map p100; %6310077; 25 Egerton Rd;
collection of artwork. There are two floors exhibiting fine Rs 1000) The fee includes use of the hotel’s Jacuzzi and
paintings by Pakistani artists. This gallery is part of the steambath.
Alhamra Cultural Complex, which sometimes has musical Lahore Garrison Golf Country Club ((Map p98;
and theatrical performances. %6660016; cnr New Airport & Choudhary Amjad Rds; Rs
Alhamra Arts Centre (Map p100; %9200953; The 200) This is one of the best-value places to take a cool dip.
Mall; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat, 8am-noon Fri) Less than Model Town Club (Map p98; Model Town; per hr Rs 100)
500m east of the Avari hotel, the Alhamra has three thea- Open only from March to September, it’s not as swanky as
tre halls and is Lahore’s main centre for musical, dramatic other pools but it’s still in good condition and long enough
and other performing arts. Tickets for a drama perform- to do decent laps. There are separate sex timings (men from
ance usually cost between Rs 120 and Rs 300. 6am to 8pm, women from 8pm to 10.30pm). An autorick-
Chitrkar Studio & Gallery (Map p98; %5758897; shaw from The Mall costs about Rs 100.
www.lahorechitrkar.com; 41-B3, Gulberg III; h11am- Pearl Continental (Map p100; %gym 6362760; The
7pm Sat-Thu) Apart from frequent art exhibitions, Chitrkar Mall; incl entrance to health club Rs 1150)
puts on an enjoyable classical music evening once a month.
Ejaz Galleries (Map p98; %5762784; ejazartgallery@ Tennis & Squash
yahoo.com, www.ejazartgallery.com; 79/B-1, MM Alam Avari (Map p100; %6365366; 87 The Mall; tennis courts
Rd, Gulberg III; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat) Just off MM Alam per 45min Rs 200, plus 15% tax)
Rd (turn at KFC) this classy gallery has an innovative col- Lahore Garrison Golf Country Club (Map p98;
lection of paintings by Pakistani artists. The paintings are %6660016; cnr New Airport & Choudhary Amjad Rds) Has
also for sale (expect to pay around Rs 6000 to Rs 100,000 two tennis courts and several air-con squash courts (each Rs
per piece). 200 per day; equipment extra). Not as centrally located as
Nairang Galleries (Map p98; %7586686; 101 Habitat the Avari and Pearl Continental hotels, but a lot cheaper.
Flat, Jail Rd; h11am-11pm) This small but high-quality Pearl Continental (Map p100; %6362760; The Mall;
gallery focuses on Pakistani art with items selling upwards tennis courts per hr Rs 230, plus 15% tax) Advance book-
of Rs 6000. There’s also a little café, replete with spongy ings essential.
110 L A H O R E • • C o u r s e s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
If you wish to stay in the heart of colourful & Sons) to its left. The inn is less than half a
Anarkali Bazaar, this small, no-frills hotel is minute’s walk down this lane in a nondescript
a good budget option. The rooms are undeni- building to your right with an orange sign,
ably basic but this place has more character at the top of a steep flight of stairs. If you get
than many other hotels and is relatively inex- lost, a well-known nearby landmark is the
pensive considering the location. Regal Cinema.
Clifton Hotel (Map p100; %6366740; Australia Chowk; Orient Hotel (Map p100; %7223906; 74 McLeod
s without bathroom Rs 200, s/d Rs 260/350, s/d with air-con Rd; s/d/tr Rs 435/621/807, s with air-con Rs 1800)
Rs 1000/1100) If you absolutely have to stay near The Orient’s cheapest rooms are drab
the train station, this hotel is the pick of the and dingy – you’re better off paying a bit
bunch. It has the best-value rooms, congenial more to get one of its more-comfortable
staff and a dining hall. (more-expensive) rooms.
oRegale Internet Inn (Map p100; %7311987, Garden Hotel (Map p100; %7322986; 10 New Anarkali
03334338588; www.regale.com.pk; Surriaya Mansion, Regal Rd; s/d Rs 500/800, s/d with air-con Rs 700/1100) At the
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Lane, 65 The Mall; r without bathroom Rs 180, r with air- Lahori Gate end of the Anarkali Bazaar, this
con Rs 700; i) Attracting a constant stream hotel is not only in a great location it is also
of travellers, this mellow little guesthouse good value. Cheap eats surround the hotel.
is the place in Lahore to meet fellow travel- Parkway (Map p100; %6315647; McLeod Rd; s/d
lers. Moreover, single females will not have Rs 600/700, s/d with air-con Rs 1000/1100) Although not
a problem here. as good as the Clifton, the nearby Parkway
The star attraction of this place is its happy- is still a lot better than many other hotels
go-lucky owner, Malik, and his son Faseeh. around here with fairly good, if somewhat
Malik is a former journalist; not only is he a musty, tired-looking rooms. It also has a
friendly fellow and a goldmine of information, dining hall.
he’ll also give you an astonishing insight into United Hotel (Map p100; %6374793; 1 Abbot Rd; s/d
local culture (see boxed text, p104). Going Rs 600/1200; a) Not sizzling-hot value, but the
beyond the call of duty, Malik will even lend rooms here are OK apart from being sterile.
a therapeutic hand if you’re feeling green – Lahore Hotel (Map p100; %7235961; Farooq Centre,
his ‘magic tea’ (Rs 5) has revitalised many a McLeod Rd; s/d Rs 1600/1800) Opposite the Orient
queasy traveller. Hotel and perched above numerous layers of
The inn is a warren of a place, but thank- motorcycle repair shops, this hotel is a little
fully there’s a sunny open-air rooftop that’s tired and at the pricey end of the McLeod
good for settling back with a drink and a good Rd options.
book. Although the inn’s rooms are nothing
fancy, you can’t argue with the price, which Midrange
includes free filtered drinking water, a map Many midrange properties are begging for a
of Lahore, use of the washing machine, access lick of fresh paint and general spring clean.
to the book collection and even a free shalwar On the bright side, rooms come with their
kameez for women. You’re also welcome to own bathroom, colour TV and in-house
use the kitchen, which has just enough room restaurant/room service. Some rooms are
to flip an egg. Rooms with private bathroom centrally air-conditioned, which can be
are being planned. ineffective, so try to get an in-room unit.
Malik compensates for Lahore’s lacklustre The majority of hotels in this price category
nightlife by frequently inviting musicians to whack a 24.2% tax onto room rates (taxes not
jam on the rooftop. They’re not just amateurs – included below).
you might have the privilege of hearing the Hotel Koh-e-Noor (Map p100; %6313851; 1 Abbot Rd;
mystical folk singer Sain Zahoor and drum- s/d Rs 600/1000, s/d with air-con Rs 800/1200) The pick
ming dynamos Gonga and Mithu Saeen. You of the cheap end of the midrange bunch, at
won’t be asked for a single rupee by the mu- Koh-e-Noor the rooms are clean and the staff
sicians but please ensure you contribute a helpful. The positives of this new hotel out-
little something. weigh the small rooms.
The Regale Internet Inn is hidden away Hotel Shah Taj International (Map p100; %6313821;
down Regal Lane. From The Mall, look for 13 Nicholson Rd; s/d Rs 750/1000, s/d with air-con Rs
the small lane that has a flower stall to its right 1000/1250) The sweeping views of the Lahore
and a large department store (H Karim Buksh skyline from the top floor are the highlight
112 L A H O R E • • S l e e p i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
of this hotel. The property would certainly Carlton Tower Hotel (Map p100; %6316700; carlton
benefit from a renovation blitz, but at least [email protected]; 14 Empress Rd; s/d Rs 3500/4500;
the prices aren’t over the top. ai) Formerly called Hotel Kashmir Palace,
Lords Hotel (Map p100; %6301517; 73 The Mall; s/d a new name and a renovation make for a
Rs 1200/1500) Although the rooms are basic, the good-value option with wi-fi and breakfast
location can not be beat. During research, included.
renovations were planned that will certainly Best Western Shalimar (Map p98; %5784411; bwslp@
push the reasonable prices up. brain.net.pk; 36 Liberty Market, Gulberg; s/d Rs 4500/5000;
Hotel Sanai (Map p100; %6316501; 1 Abbot Rd; s/d ai) Although some rooms are a wee bit
Rs 1200/1850; a) The Sanai has biggish rooms small, they’re certainly comfortable and well
and is probably the most salubrious midrange maintained. Courteous staff and free wi-fi
option if you wish to stay reasonably close to make this hotel one of the most appealing in
the main train station. the midrange bunch.
Bakhtawar (Map p100; %6302845; 11 Abbot Rd; s/d
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Continental and the Holiday Inn in terms of place takes on a festive buzz. To stave off the
overall quality. The staff is helpful, the rooms bad bugs make sure you stick to food that is
are generous in size and the hotel boasts ex- cooked in front of you.
tras such as five restaurants, a pool area and Also near The Mall, and similar to the
several tennis courts. Gowal Mandi set-up, is so-called Tourist Street
Pearl Continental (Map p100; %111505505; www (Map p100; Old Anarkali; mains Rs 30-200; hlunch & din-
.pchotels.com; The Mall; s/d Rs 10,000/12,000; ais) ner). It’s another terrific place to fill your belly
This is Lahore’s most upmarket hotel, replete without spending a fortune. The aroma of
with five restaurants and a shopping arcade, cooking oil and barbecued meat fills the air
bakery, gym, tennis court, beauty parlour (a and, like Gowal Mandi, Tourist St has a focus
men’s haircut by the ‘artistic director’ will set on Pakistani food and also springs to life after
you back Rs 2500) and more. The property has sunset, when traffic is denied entry.
two wings: the Mall (which was having a few Chaman (Map p100; Bedan Rd, The Mall; per 2 scoop serve
floors added to it at the time of research) and Rs 17; h24hr) For a cool cone or three you really
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the more opulent Atrium (an Atrium single/ can’t do much better than Chaman, which has
double costs Rs 15,000/17,000). For sheer carved a name for itself as one of Lahore’s
luxury go for the Presidential Suite (a cool Rs most-loved ice-cream parlours. If you have
70,000; Room 850 is nice). It’s a shame that room, try the fruit juices.
the marine creatures in the foyer’s big fish Fiesta (Map p100; Bedan Rd, The Mall; per 2 scoop
tank exhibit more joie de vivre than many of serve Rs 17; h24hr) Although not as legen-
the snooty staff. dary as Chaman next door, Fiesta is work-
ing hard to win the hearts of ice-cream
EATING aficionados with a tantalising melange of
The hungry traveller will be happy to know sweet-sounding scoops.
that Lahore is widely regarded as Pakistan’s Faluda Shop (Map p100; Bedan Rd, The Mall; per serve Rs
gourmet capital. Spice junkies will relish 30; h24hr) Opposite Fiesta, this is a good place
Lahore’s Pakistani fare – which usually has to sample your very first faluda (vermicelli
plenty of zing – but greenhorns should per- and ice cream).
haps request less chilli at first, as regular prep- Eat & Sip (Map p100; %6307739; 71 Naqi Arcade, The
arations can fry uninitiated taste buds. Mall; mains Rs 70-210; hlunch & dinner) If you have
Sampling the local cuisine is heartily en- to eat and run, this nondescript restaurant
couraged. However, travellers homesick for has a hotchpotch of takeaway or dine-in
familiar fast food will easily find an ever- fast food such as chicken burgers (Rs 110),
multiplying number of chains. For some- club sandwiches (Rs 110) and a satiating (if
thing more homegrown head for Gulberg, somewhat greasy) ‘lunchbox’ (quarter fried
which has the city’s most hip and innovative chicken, French fries and coleslaw; Rs 85). The
multicuisine restaurants. innocent-looking preparations in the salad
A tip is generally expected at most restau- bar can be deceptively chilli-hot (250g/1000g
rants (not street stalls) – locals tend to give serve for Rs 30/120).
around 5% of the bill. Midrange and upper- oCooco’s Den & Café (Map p100; %7635955;
range restaurants have a 15% tax added to 2168-9/A Roshnai Gate, Fort Rd, Old City; mains Rs 95-660;
menu prices (not included here). hlunch & dinner; a) Set in an eclectic family
haveli (traditional mansion), with glorious
The Mall and Old City views of the Badshahi Mosque and environs,
Near The Mall, and aptly dubbed ‘Food Street’ the vistas and ambience of this restaurant
by locals, the area called Gowal Mandi (Map p100; score slightly higher marks than the food
mains Rs 30-200; hlunch & dinner) is brilliant for a (which is still not at all bad).
cheap, hearty feed. The fierce competition The owner, artist Iqbal Hussain, primarily
between the many eateries along this street paints portraits of the nautch (dancing) girls
works to the customer’s benefit, with a va- of Heera Mandi (Lahore’s red-light district),
riety of tasty, good-value Pakistani cuisine. the area in which the haveli is located.
Although some places are open for lunch, The menu features Pakistani cuisine with
the action really begins after sunset when traditional favourites. Some more-unusual
the area is completely closed to traffic; chairs offerings include qeema wala naan (flat bread
and tables are set up on the street; and the stuffed with spiced minced lamb; Rs 90) and
114 L A H O R E • • E a t i n g lonelyplanet.com
for dessert, alamghiri laula (a seasonal carrot- than at ‘regular’ general stores, but the variety
based sweet; Rs 140). (and often quality) is superior. Very handy if
Dinner is the most atmospheric time to you are staying at Regale Internet Inn.
dine here – the top of the haveli is a great place
to watch the sunset and the Badshahi Mosque Gulberg
become illuminated. If you’re sick of eating out of a can, brown
Cookers (Map p100; %7229605; cnr The Mall & McLeod paper bag or hermetically sealed container,
Rd; mains Rs 150-350; hlunch & dinner) The outdoor Gulberg is just the place to shake off the
dining area on The Mall is a great place to tuck budget blues. Most eateries are bunched
into salt ’n’ pepper squid (Rs 220), Arabian along MM Alam Rd and Gulberg Main Blvd
sole in lemon-herb sauce (Rs 310) or coconut and these can fill up in a flash (particularly
chicken curry (Rs 290). Bookings for dinner on weekends) so it’s not a bad idea to book
are recommended. ahead. To ensure you’re well fed, make sure
Bundu Khan (Map p100; %7231994; 23 The Mall; mains your moneybelt is well fed first. From The
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Rs 150-350; hlunch & dinner) With other branches Mall to MM Alam Rd an autorickshaw/taxi
in Lahore, Bundu Khan cooks up piquant costs about Rs 250/400.
Pakistani cuisine with menu items including a Jammin’ Java (Map p98; 44-L MM Alam Rd; h8.30am-
tasty mutton tikka (Rs 2605) and, for the more midnight; a) Make a beeline for this hip café
adventurous, brain masala (Rs 235). There are if you’re suffering withdrawal symptoms
also non-Pakistani alternatives such as beef from lack of a real cup of coffee. There are
burgers (Rs 190) and chicken corn soup (Rs frothy cappuccinos (from Rs 105) and lattes,
280). During lunchtime this branch mainly espressos and flavoured coffees. If you’ve been
deals in takeaway, but in the evening diners dragged here by a coffee freak (but aren’t one
can use the tables and chairs set up outside. yourself) there are caffeine-free options such
Salt‘n’Pepper (Map p100; %7244009; 26 The Mall; mains as the Hunza High fresh fruit smoothie (Rs
Rs 160-340; hlunch & dinner; a) Recommended for 145), as well as light bites. JJ is below the Levis
its tasty Pakistani and Continental cuisine, store opposite Café Zouk.
this restaurant is a welcome retreat from the Gun Smoke (Map p98; %5875572; 11C MM Alam Rd;
frenetic streets. A top seller is the boneless mains Rs 119-609; hlunch & dinner; a) In this Wild
chicken handi (chicken dunked in a tomato- West steak house you won’t bump into any
based gravy; half/full serve Rs 260/480). Or cowboys, but you can enjoy MTV or the latest
perhaps a club sandwich (Rs 160) and slice of cricket match on your own in-booth screen.
apple pie (Rs 70) will suffice. Salt’n’Pepper has Brace yourself for some heat if ordering the
several branches in Lahore. Reservations are jalapeño chicken wings (Rs 309 for a dozen)
recommended on weekends. and if you are hungry try the Red Hot Sherrif’s
Dumpukht (Map p100; %6362760; Pearl Continental, Cut steak (Rs 609).
The Mall; mains Rs 350-750; hlunch & dinner; a) Named Café Zouk (Map p98; %5750272; 43-L Complex
after the cuisine championed by the nawabs Plaza, MM Alam Rd; mains Rs 149-599; hlunch & din-
(Muslim princes) of Avadh (Lucknow, India) ner; a) Funky Zouk whips up imaginative
some 300 years ago, this is one of the PC’s Continental and Thai creations including a
five fine restaurants. Try the delicious murgh divine Pattaya sweet and sour fish (Rs 549),
pukhraaj (chicken cooked in yogurt, saffron, Ethiopian chicken in red pepper sauce (Rs
Afghan spices and garnished with edible silver 329) and a superb New York cheesecake (Rs
paper) – one of the chef’s favourites. For a 179 per slice). Cocktail buffs can sip on a piña
midnight snack, takeaway cakes, croissants, colada (minus the kick) for Rs 149.
chocolate doughnuts and other sugary delights Pizzerio Uno Chicago Grill (Map p98; %5763743;
are available at the hotel’s Pastry Shop. 2-C-11 MM Alam Rd; mains Rs 186-516; hlunch & dinner;
For self-catering options, H Karim Buksh & a) Decked out in an Al Capone theme, this
Sons (Map p100; The Mall; h10.30am-10pm Mon-Sat, is perhaps Lahore’s best place to sink your
11.30am-9.30pm Sun) The supermarket (lower chompers into a 12oz fillet steak (Rs 336). Its
level) of this modern shopping complex has a tandoori chicken pizza (Rs 186) is also a treat,
tremendous range of local and imported gro- as is the Chicago cheesecake (Rs 170).
ceries. Soup mixes, spaghetti, cream biscuits, Tai Wah (Map p98; %5714988; 78-E-1 Gulberg Main
cheese, fruit yogurt, cereal – you name it, Blvd; mains Rs 230-520, buffet lunch/dinner Rs 350/430;
they’ve probably got it. Prices are a bit higher hlunch & dinner; a) Offers à la carte dining
lonelyplanet.com L A H O R E • • D r i n k i n g 115
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here are not nearly as in vogue as those of
mains Rs 265-765; hlunch & dinner; a) Features sub- Gulberg. This stadium also has a cinema,
continental specialities with especially good tenpin bowling alley, children’s fun park, a
Mughlai dishes such as nawabi salan (chicken collection of shops and several food chains.
in cashew-nut gravy with herbs and ginger; Rs Iceberg (Map p98; 1/2/3/4 scoops Rs 30/50/65/75; a)
330). There are also some Continental offer- If you’ve been shopping like a mad thing for
ings – the goat cheese and shrimp pasta (Rs CDs and DVDs and need a frosty pep-up,
520) and grilled tiger prawns in lemon butter this ice-cream parlour is a godsend replete
sauce (Rs 785) look promising. You can eat with icicles hanging from the ceiling. Its 20
indoors or out in the breezy courtyard. flavours include wild strawberry, praline and
Ziafat (Map p98; %5878746; 21-C-1 MM Alam Rd; chocolate fudge; toppings are an extra Rs 20.
buffet lunch/dinner Rs 275/450; hlunch & dinner; a) Mei Kong (Map p98; %6652069; mains Rs 175-670;
Ziafat predominantly attracts young families, hlunch & dinner; a) This large Chinese res-
some of whom unfortunately allow their little taurant has an extensive menu with vegetable
darlings to treat the place like a playground. chow mein (Rs 245) and prawn chop suey (Rs
Nonetheless, the buffet is good value. 320) among the usual Chinese fare.
Carpe Diem (Map p98; %5874554; 67-B-1 Gulberg Shezan (Map p98; %6651315; mains Rs 175-670;
III; mains Rs 395-2250; hlunch & dinner; a) Just off hlunch & dinner; a) This family restaurant
MM Alam Rd, Carpe Diem serves up organic serves up Pakistani and Continental favour-
Mediterranean fusion cuisine. It has a strict ites including mutton handi (Rs 330) and
‘no soft drink’ policy – however the fruit and cheese stuffed chicken breast (Rs 300). Also
vegetable detox concoction is invigorating does takeaway.
(Rs 145). Enjoy the walnut chicken (Rs 495)
or the seafood platter (Rs 1495) in the white- DRINKING
washed Med-inspired surroundings. There Pakistan is a ‘dry’ nation, so watering holes
are live music performances during dinner on aren’t found anywhere other than at a few hotels,
Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. and even at these you are legally required to
Café Aylanto (Map p98; %5751886; 12-C-1 MM Alam have a liquor permit.
Rd; mains Rs 485-2850; hlunch & dinner; a) With Excise & Taxation Department (Map p100;
seating inside and outdoors, this good-looking %9211619; Mozang Rd; h8am-3pm Mon-Thu, 8am-1pm
café tosses up a range of pastas (Rs 475 to Rs Fri) Near Farid Court House, this is the place
695) as well as other Continental tempters to get a liquor permit. Go to Room 33 on the
including New Zealand lamb chops (Rs 1450) 2nd floor with your passport, as well as one
and Norwegian salmon steaks (Rs 875). For photocopy of your visa, entry stamps and the
pure indulgence you can’t beat the lobster front pages. You may also need a few pass-
thermidor (Rs 285 per 100g). port photos. A permit lasting anything up to
Village Restaurant (Map p98; %5750735; 103-B-2 a month costs Rs 50; for two/three months
MM Alam Rd; Pakistani buffet only, lunch/dinner Rs 490/590; it costs Rs 90/130. There are off-licences or
hlunch & dinner; a) This restaurant gets the ‘permit rooms’ only at the Pearl Continental,
stamp of approval from travellers for its satiat- Holiday Inn, Ambassador and Avari hotels.
ing buffet. Recommended for those contem- These are open 8am to 1pm and 3pm to 6pm
plating a civilised feeding frenzy. Saturday to Thursday and you can use your
116 L A H O R E • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t lonelyplanet.com
liquor permit at any of them. Guests of these Qaddafi Stadium (Gaddafi Stadium; Map p98;
hotels can also get permits (for the same fee) %9230791; Ferozpur Rd, Gulberg) Lahore’s premier
on the spot, which involves less rigmarole venue for major domestic and international cricket
than getting them at the Excise & Taxation matches, surf up www.pcboa rd.com.pk.
Department. During research nonguests told
us that they’ve been able to buy liquor at some HOCKEY & SOCCER
of these hotels without a permit, by making National Hockey Stadium (Map p98; %5754727)
‘discreet inquiries’ (the hotel may ask you to Located opposite Qaddafi Stadium, this is
fill out a form on the spot). Murree beer costs the venue for field hockey matches and also
Rs 100/110 for a bottle of regular/classic. football (soccer).
ENTERTAINMENT POLO
Although Lahore doesn’t have a pub or night- Lahore Polo Club (Map p100; %6310285; [email protected]
club scene, it has cinemas where you can ex-
PUNJAB
than Fortress Stadium) is on Hall Rd (Map to sift through kitsch knick-knacks to find
p100), off The Mall, which has scores of music the quality stuff.
outlets. Rafi Plaza (Map p100) is a good place
to start. CDs and DVDs are at least Rs 10 to Musical Instruments
Rs 20 cheaper than those at Fortress Stadium, Close to the Lahore Fort, Langay Bazaar (Map
but only if you bargain hard, as foreigners are p100; Old City) is the area to find musical instru-
invariably quoted higher prices. ments. Competition between shops is high,
so it’s worth looking around and bargaining
Clothing & Footwear hard to bag the best deal. One well-stocked
Tailors in the Old City will stitch you a shal- shop is Millat Music Palace, which sells dhols
war kameez for around Rs 200 to Rs 250 (not (traditional large Punjabi drums; Rs 6000 to
including material). Other tailors in Lahore Rs 10,000) and dholkis (smaller drums crafted
will also make to order, but they’re usually a from wood and goatskin; Rs 1200 to Rs 2000),
little more expensive. tablas (twin drums; Rs 3000 to Rs 5000), har-
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Landa Bazaar (Map p100; Old City) Opposite Delhi moniums (Rs 6000 to Rs 25,000; the most ex-
Gate, this bazaar sells decent secondhand pensive are made in Germany) and sitars (Rs
clothing and shoes. Haggle hard. 8000 to Rs 20,000; the more-expensive ones
Panorama (Map p100; 48 The Mall) Worth visiting have fine bone inlay work), as well as some
if you’re in the market for a leather jacket. This violins (Rs 3000 to Rs 6500) and string guitars
arcade also has lots of men’s clothing shops. (Rs 2000 to Rs 12,000; the most expensive are
Inside Taksali Gate is Moti Bazaar (Map p100; Old Yamaha instruments).
City) that’s the best place to buy cheap, good-
quality chappals (sandals). Expect to pay Perfume
upwards of Rs 400 a pair. Almadina Perfume Center (Map p98; The Mall) Has a
gleaming display of gorgeous locally made
Electrical Goods & Repairs perfumes. Prices start at Rs 60. Whoever
If you need to repair or sell your laptop or coined the fragrance names was certainly
personal stereo, there are a number of repu- thinking outside the square – among the
table places on Hall Road (Map p100), located dreamy-sounding titles like ‘Secret Intention’
off The Mall, and at the Hafeez Centre (Map p98; and ‘Hypnotic Poison’ are the whacky ‘Cigar’,
Gulberg Main Blvd). Shop around and bargain hard ‘Madness’ and ‘Scarf’ labels…go figure.
to bag the best deal.
Hall Rd is worth visiting if you’re in the GETTING THERE & AWAY
market for any other electronic equipment – Lahore is Pakistan’s gateway to India – for
or even if you just want to see how many TVs, details see p382, and for border crossing
hi-fi systems, satellite dishes, mobile phones information see p387.
and iPods can be crammed into one street.
The best place in Lahore – indeed, one of Air
the best in Pakistan – to repair, sell or buy a Lahore’s well-kept Allama Iqbal International
camera (new or secondhand) is along Nisbet Airport (%9211604) contains both the domes-
Road (Map p100), about 1km north of The Mall tic and international terminals. Facilities at
and dubbed ‘Camera Street’ by locals. You’ll the airport include two tourist offices, a rail-
find a plethora of outlets, but be prepared to way reservation office and money-changing
shop around and haggle hard to nail a winning counters.
deal. It helps not to appear too eager. Check-in for domestic flights is one hour
prior to departure. It’s wise to book domes-
Handicrafts tic tickets at least three days in advance, as
Lahore isn’t as great a handicrafts centre as flights can unexpectedly fill up at the last
you’d expect it to be – not the ideal place to minute. The airport can be prone to fog in
stockpile birthday gifts for loved ones back December and January, sometimes disrupting
home. The upmarket hotels often have quality airline schedules.
(but rather expensive) pieces in their flashy For flight/air cargo inquiries call %114
shopping arcades. or %9220786.
Anarkali and the Old City are perhaps the PIA (Map p100; %111786786; PIA Bldg, Egerton Rd) has
best places to hunt for souvenirs. You’ll have domestic services from Lahore to Bahawalpur
118 L A H O R E • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com
(Rs 4250, one hour 20 minutes), Islamabad places where long-distance buses operated: the
(Rs 4725, 50 minutes), Karachi (Rs 6550, main bus stand (Lariadda) and the Sherakot
1¾ hours), Multan (Rs 4400, one hour 20 bus stands (Bund Rd). Although all services
minutes), Peshawar (Rs 4990, one hour 25 depart from the slightly more conveniently
minutes), Quetta (Rs 4775, one hour 25 min- located main bus stand, this place is chaotic,
utes), Rahim Yar Khan (Rs 5100, one hour dusty and swarming with people. You’ll en-
20 minutes) and Sukkur (Rs 6325, one hour counter far less hype if you catch one of the
20 minutes). buses that leave from the Sherakot terminals on
Shaheen Air International (Map p100; %111808080; Bund Rd (tickets cost the same at both places).
www.shaheenair.com; Ali Complex, Empress Rd) flies only An autorickshaw from The Mall to Sherakot
to Karachi; there’s a twice daily service costs about Rs 150, or you can catch bus 1 (Rs
(Rs 6045). 10/15 for standard/air-con) from The Mall (first
Airblue (Map p98; %111247258; www.airblue.com; ask the driver if the bus goes to Sherakot, as
Asad Centre 1-E, Main Blvd, Gulberg II) has three daily not all do).
PUNJAB
flights to Karachi only (Rs 7998). For long-haul trips a growing number of
private companies offer comfortable air-con
AIRLINE OFFICES buses; most take advance bookings, how-
International carriers servicing Lahore are ever, it is still worth going to the bus stand
prone to change – to get the latest details a few days before you want to travel to se-
consult your travel agent or surf the net. cure your ticket. Companies include New
International airline offices in Lahore include Khan Road Runners (%7728355), which services
the following: various destinations including Dera Ghazi
Air Canada (Map p100; %6305229; Ali Complex, Khan (Rs 300, seven hours), Karachi (Rs
Empress Rd) 920, 22 hours), Multan (Rs 180, five hours),
Air France (Map p100; %6360930; Wapda House, The Peshawar (Rs 380, six hours) and Rawalpindi
Mall) (Rs 320, five hours). Other reputable com-
British Airways (Map p100; %6300701; Transport panies include Skyways (%7470242) and Niazi
House, Egerton Rd) Express (%740188).
Cathay Pacific Airways (Map p100; %6369558; Ali The most luxurious buses are operated
Complex, Empress Rd) by Daewoo (Map p98; %111007008; 231 Ferozpur Rd)
Emirates (Map p98; %6676522; 1-2 Cantonment Com- near Kalma Chowk. Daewoo has state-of-
mercial Complex, Abid Majid Rd) the-art vehicles and the fare includes a light
Gulf Air (Map p98; %5716405; Eden Heights Plaza, meal (an autorickshaw from The Mall to the
Jail Rd) Daewoo terminal should cost Rs 100). To
Indian Airlines (Map p100; %6360014; Ambassador Rawalpindi, Daewoo offers two bus types:
Centre, Davis Rd) luxury (Rs 450, 4½ hours) and super-luxury
Kenya Airways (Map p100; %6312138; Ali Complex, (Rs 530, 4½ hours) – the latter has more leg
Empress Rd) space, a footrest and more comfortable seats.
KLM – Royal Dutch Airlines (Map p100; %6361510; Other destinations serviced by Daewoo in-
Wapda House, The Mall) clude Multan (Rs 400, 5¼ hours), Bahawalpur
Lufthansa Airlines (Map p100; %6315105; Avari (Rs 470, 6¾ hours) and Peshawar (Rs 570,
Hotel, The Mall) 6½ hours).
Malaysian Airlines (Map p100; %6305100; 2nd fl, PIA
Bldg, Egerton Rd) Train
PIA (Map p100; %111786786; PIA Bldg, Egerton Rd) All trains stop at the Lahore City Railway
Singapore Airlines (Map p100; %6307418; Ali Station, also known as Lahore Junction. Porters
Complex, Empress Rd) will lug your load for Rs 25 to Rs 50 (depend-
Thai Airways (Map p100; %6312724; Transport House, ing on how much baggage you have).
Egerton Rd) Next door to the Ambassador Hotel. Timetables and fares are subject to constant
alterations so there are likely to be changes
Bus during the life of this book. To double-check,
During research there were rumours that the call railway inquiries on %117, get a copy of
main bus stand was going to be renovated the twice-yearly updated Pakistan Railways
or shifted, so it’s worth double-checking its Time & Fare Table (Rs 25), which is usually
status. At the time of writing there were two available at major train stations as well as at
lonelyplanet.com L A H O R E • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 119
Ferozson’s bookshop (see p97), or log on to part). At Rs 18 per kilometre they are a tad
www.pakr ail.com. more expensive than regular taxis but cer-
It’s highly advisable to buy a ticket at least tainly a headache-free option.
a few days before your intended departure to Top-end hotels usually have a complimen-
improve your chances of securing a seat on tary shuttle bus for guests.
your preferred train. Tickets are sold at the
Railways Headquarters reservation office (Map p100; Bus & Minibus
Empress Rd; h8am-7.30pm Sun-Thu & Sat, 8am-12.30pm & Crowded buses and minibuses run almost
2.30-7.30pm Fri) about 1.5km south of the main everywhere every few minutes from stands
train station. opposite the Lahore City Railway Station. The
Don’t forget to avail yourself of the 25% usual fare is Rs 6 to Rs 10.
concession for foreign tourists and, if ap- Some useful routes are as follows: minibus
plicable, the generous 50% concession for 43 (marked on Map p98) runs from opposite
foreign students. If you intend travelling by the main train station to Charing Cross and
PUNJAB
train in other parts of Pakistan it’s wise to Gulberg. Bus 12 runs from the main train sta-
collect your concession letter in Lahore – it tion to Shalimar Gardens. Bus 3 travels from
can be a hassle getting it elsewhere. To get the main train station to The Mall and Krishan
this concession, take your passport and stu- Nagar. Bus 15 runs from the main train station
dent card (if applicable) to the commercial to the airport, while minibus 42 goes from the
department of Railways Headquarters (Map p100; main train station to Sherakot (from where
Empress Rd; h8am-3pm). This office can be tough you can catch private long-distance buses).
to find – if you get lost, ask someone to point Minibuses 37 and 86 ply the route from the
you in the direction of the ‘Chief Commercial main train station to the main bus stand and
Manager – Passenger’. Lahore Fort.
If you’re experiencing any difficulties book- From The Mall, bus 1 travels from Regal
ing a ticket or getting a concession letter, see Chowk to the airport and Sherakot. Bus 3 goes
the manager of the public relations office in to the main train station (from where other
the Railways Headquarters building. buses travel to the Wagah border).
AROUND LAHORE there take bus 4 (Rs 12, about one hour) to
the border – but before boarding bus 4 con-
firm with the driver that it goes to the Wagah
WAGAH border, as not all do.
The border between Pakistan and India is A taxi from The Mall to the border costs
located 30km east of Lahore at Wagah. For about Rs 800 (a return journey including one
important border-crossing information hour’s waiting time is around Rs 2000). The
see p386. TDCP conducts tours to the border-closing
Whether or not you’re going to India it’s ceremony (see p110).
worth making a special trip to the border to
watch the amazing closing-of-the-border HIRAN MINAR
(flag-lowering) ceremony that takes place each This secluded former Mughal hunting base,
day. If you’ve got time, see it from both sides of 48km northwest of Lahore, offers an escape
the fence, as the objective of each side’s soldiers from the city crowds as it did for the Mughal
PUNJAB
is to out-march, out-salute and out-shout each court over 350 years ago. For foreigners the
other (if you’re crossing the border you’ll only entrance fee is Rs 200.
get to see it from the Indian side). The complex consists of a large water tank
If you’ve got any questions once at the with a three-storey baradari in the mid-
Wagah border, don’t hesitate to ask Mr Latif, dle, from where Jehangir would view his
the friendly owner of the Latif Old Book hiran (deer).
Shop. For more information about facilities Nearby Sheikhupura has a Mughal fort with
at Wagah see p386. links to Sikh maharani (queen) Rani Nakayan.
The entrance fee has been cranked up for
Getting There & Away foreigners to Rs 200. From Lahore, catch a
To get to the Wagah border by bus from Regal bus to Sheikhupura (Rs 32, one hour). From
Chowk (The Mall) catch bus 3 (Rs 4, about 20 there, get a bus or minibus to Hiran Minar
minutes) to the main train station and from (Rs 8, 20 minutes).
PUNJAB
is strictly prohibited in the temple. There are
pilgrims’ lodgings (for a donation) on site. This state was headed by Nawab Bahawal
Daily direct buses travel from Lahore to Khan Abbasi I, of a dynasty claiming de-
Nankana (Rs 52, two hours). scent from the Prophet Mohammed’s uncle,
Abbas. The state was ruled by the Abbasi
SHARAKPUR SHARIF nawabs with little outside interference until
This little town, 35km from Lahore on the the 20th century and was only merged with
Jaranwala Rd, is en route to Nankana. Its old Pakistan by treaty in 1954, when it became
city oozes old-world charm, making it an at- Bahawalpur Division.
mospheric place to stretch your legs. The people of the region have had long as-
It’s a good spot to buy traditional hand- sociations with Sufism and pirs (holy men),
made shoes (around Rs 500) and taste the whose shrines are often maintained by their
town’s legendary gulab jamuns (deep-fried families in perpetuity.
dough balls soaked in sweet syrup). The Most people in this district speak Saraiki,
owner of the Regale Internet Inn has es- which is a variant of Punjabi.
tablished Malik Garden, consisting of two
rooms and two dorm rooms. Bamboo huts for Information
guests are being planned for the lush fruit or- MEDICAL SERVICES
chard. Bookings can be made through Regale Victoria Hospital (%9250411; Circular Rd) South of
Internet Inn (p111). Farid Gate, this hospital was built in 1906 and remains the
town’s main infirmary.
CHANGA MANGA WILDLIFE RESERVE
Established in 1860, covering about 5000 MONEY
hectares and said to be one of the oldest The following places change major cur-
hand-planted forests in the world, peaceful rency notes and travellers cheques. The
Changa Manga is 70km from Lahore on the times provided here are specifically for
road to Multan. Malik from Regale Internet foreign exchange.
Inn (p111) may be able to arrange bamboo- Habib Bank (Farid Gate; h9am-1.30pm Mon-Thu,
hut accommodation here, however, travel to 9am-12.30pm Fri & Sat) Also has a 24-hour ATM.
the area is sometimes difficult due to Pakistani Khan Moneychanger (1st fl, Pak Continental Hotel,
military exercises that take place en route to Bobby Plaza; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon
the reserve. There are daily buses from Lahore Fri) This private authorised moneychanger only deals with
to this reserve (Rs 40, 2½ to three hours). major international currencies (not travellers cheques).
National Bank (Farid Gate; h9am-1.30pm Mon-Thu,
9am-12.30pm Fri & Sat)
SOUTHERN PUNJAB Western Union (%9250318; main post office;
h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9-11am Fri) For
To the south of Lahore, the sublime shrines speedy international money transfer.
and tombs of Multan and Uch Sharif, ancient
forts and the deserts of Cholistan are some of POST
the experiences that await. Travellers should The main post office (GPO) is about half a
time their visit to coincide with one of the kilometre east of Farid Gate.
122 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • B a h a w a l p u r lonelyplanet.com
BAHAWALPUR 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
SHOPPING
Zoo Tulsi Das Pakistan Handicrafts...................25 C3
Entrance Gardens
Multan
Gate 14 TRANSPORT
Stad
To Train Station (400m); Coasters to Multan & Rahim Yar
ium R
Al-Kausar (400m) Bazaar Khan......................................26 B3
Area S
22 Mori E Main Bus Stand..........................27 B2
Co
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W 28 B3
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Fateh Khan Baza
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24 y Farid
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9 Mahal
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PUNJAB
BAHAWALPUR MUSEUM s/d with air-con Rs 1000/1200) Situated near Fowara
Displaying items ranging from calligraphy Chowk, the Abaseen has small, morose rooms.
to artefacts from Moenjodaro, Cholistan and On the plus side, the staff are more welcoming
Harappa, Bahawalpur Museum (%9250000; ad- than at many other cheap hotels.
mission Rs 10; h8am-4pm Sun-Thu, 8am-noon Fri), less
than 1km southeast of Farid Gate, is divided MIDRANGE
into a Pakistan Movement Gallery of pho- Midrange hotels are loads better than their
tos; an Islamic Arts Gallery of arms, textiles, budget brothers, however, some room rates
graphic arts and metalware; an Archaeological are a little steep for what you (don’t) get. All
Gallery; a Coins & Medals Gallery with items of the following places add a 23% tax (not
minted by the former state of Bahawalpur; included here).
an Ethnological Gallery with handicrafts Humera Hotel (%2884550; Multan Rd; s/d Rs 500/600,
from Cholistan and Bahawalpur; a Fabrics s/d with air-con Rs 1500/1600) An option if you have
Gallery with costumes from the region; and to stay in the main bus-stand area, the Humera
a Manuscripts & Calligraphy Gallery. has an institutional personality but is other-
wise OK. Located near Satluj Bridge.
CENTRAL LIBRARY Luxury Hotel (%2888401; s/d 800/1000, s/d with air-
Next door to the Bahawalpur Museum, this con 1200/1400) Overlooking Fowara Chowk, this
fine building houses a well-stocked library is by far the best midrange hotel in town. The
(%89250211; h8am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8am- rooms are well maintained, the staff is gra-
noon Fri). The foundation stone was laid by the cious (solo female travellers won’t be frowned
then viceroy, Sir Rufus Daniel Isaacs, in 1924. upon) and there’s a decent room-service
The garden is very restful. menu. On top of that, the tariff is lower than
at most other hotels.
Sleeping Welcome Guest House (%2887882; 29A Model Town
Bahawalpur isn’t starved of budget and mid- A; r Rs 1400) A recommended option if you’re
range hotels, however, there’s a lack of good- seeking a tranquil residential locale and don’t
value options. Solo women aren’t warmly mind staying away from the centre. This un-
welcomed by all places (especially budget), pretentious guesthouse offers comfortable
presumably because they’re an oddity here. rooms (V5 is a favourite) and meals are avail-
There are no top-end hotels, so if you’re seek- able with advance notice. Its ‘home away from
ing luxury go to Multan. home’ ambience makes it especially good
Noise pollution can be diabolical, even in for long-stayers.
what staff optimistically label ‘quiet’ rooms – Pak Continental Hotel (%2876792; Bobby Plaza,
keep earplugs by your bedside. Circular Rd; s/d incl breakfast Rs 2460/3070; a) This is an
upbeat place with pleasing rooms – if you scowl
BUDGET at the tariff, the obliging staff are likely to turn
Bahawalpur’s budget choices won’t exactly your frown upside down by slashing prices.
rock your world. Many have shoebox-like Internet access is available at Rs 30 an hour.
rooms, strange odours and brusque staff, but Bobby’s Restaurant, located in the complex,
on the bright side, they won’t suck your money- serves up Continental and Pakistani fare.
124 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • B a h a w a l p u r lonelyplanet.com
PTDC Motel (%9250170; Club Rd; s/d Rs 2484/3105; pottery). Items to look out for include shoes
a) Situated in a quiet pocket of Bahawalpur, known as khussas (woven with gold and
the PTDC has modern cottage-style accom- silver thread); handwoven village carpets;
modation set around a leafy garden. Although brocades; painted terracotta pottery; brass-
the rooms are pleasant enough, they should ware; and embroidered skirts and material.
really be more luxurious at this price. A 20% Tassled felt caps (similar to soft Turkish
discount may be possible so it pays to ask. fezzes) can usually be found at hat shops
in the bazaar.
Eating The otherwise disappointing Pakistan
Cheap eats can be found at the little stalls Handicrafts shop, opposite Farid Gate, some-
dotted around Farid and Ahmadpuri Gates. times has some standout handicrafts from
For a vitamin C top-up there are places just Cholistan at affordable prices. Cholistani
inside Farid Gate that squeeze fresh juice for handicrafts include chungirs (bread plates
made from date palm leaves), rillis (all-purpose
PUNJAB
around Rs 10.
Most of the following listings have a cotton patchwork blankets), falasis (weavings
15% tax tacked onto menu prices (not of camel hair and cotton used as carpets, wall
included here). hangings etc), embroidered dupattas (long
Disneyland Sweets (Fowara Chowk; per ice-cream cone scarves), kurtas (long shirts with either short
Rs 13-25; hearly morning-late night) The place for an or no collars) and khalatis (ladies’ embroi-
invigorating cool cone – the pistachio (Rs 18) dered purses).
goes down particularly well.
Tandoori Restaurant (%2881758; Circular Rd; mains Getting There & Away
Rs 60-240; hlunch & dinner) Next door to JB Palace AIR
Hotel, this reasonably good restaurant offers PIA (%9255012; Fowara Chowk; h8.30am-4pm) has
tandoor (clay oven) creations such as chicken five flights a week to Lahore (Rs 4700) and
shashlik (kebab; Rs 180) and fish tikka (spiced, Karachi (Rs 4550).
marinated fish chunks; Rs 240).
Panda Chinese Restaurant (%2880885; Railway Rd; BUS & MINIBUS
mains Rs 150-430; hlunch & dinner; a) Comfortably Long-distance services leave from the col-
appointed, this is the place for wok-tossed lective chaos known as the main bus stand at
favourites such as Sichuan beef (Rs 180). the northern edge of town. There are regular
However, like most Chinese restaurants on services to Islamabad (Rs 430, 8½ hours),
the subcontinent, the food here is more spice- Multan (Rs 110, 1½ hours), Sahiwal (Rs 200,
infused than usual, catering to local tastes. four hours) and elsewhere. Private companies
Zanzibar 4 Seasons Restaurant (Muhammad Bin such as New Khan Rd Runners (among other
Qasim Rd; mains Rs 170-760; hlunch & dinner; a) reputable outfits such as Skyways and Niazi
With an attractive interior and good food, Express) have more-comfortable services to
this is Bahawalpur’s finest restaurant. There Lahore (Rs 330, eight hours via Multan and
are Pakistani, Continental, Chinese and even Sahiwal). These companies have offices at the
a few Mexican dishes. Recommendations in- main bus stand. Coasters to Multan (Rs 80)
clude the roast beef burgers (Rs 170), jumbo and Rahim Yar Khan (Rs 1700) leave from
garlic prawns (Rs 570) and honey pepper Ahmadpuri Gate.
chicken (Rs 270). If your tummy is twisting, The more comfortable and reliable Daewoo
try a cup of soothing green tea (Rs 25). (%11007008) has established itself on the out-
Pan Pizza (%2877140; 75 Welcome Gate, Railway skirts of town (opposite Sadiq Public School,
Rd; small/medium/large pizza Rs 385/625/825; hlunch near NLC, Dera Nawab Sahib Rd) and runs
& dinner; a) Opposite Panda, Pan does tasty regularly to Lahore (Rs 470), Rawalpindi (Rs
pizzas as well as a limited variety of burgers 680) and Multan (Rs 130).
and Chinese fare. The delicious hot and spicy
pizza does, as the name suggests, leave your TRAIN
taste buds tingling. From Bahawalpur, travelling by bus is usually
quicker and entails less palaver than going
Shopping by train. For those still interested, almost
The Bahawalpur region is known for its all long-distance trains pass through town,
shoes and handicrafts (especially earthen however, the small station can only secure
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • L a l S u h a n r a N a t i o n a l Pa r k 125
PUNJAB
era. The remains of some 40 forts from the
phased out in 1994. early days of the caliphate cross the desert like
a string of pearls.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT In reference to the nomadic habits of its
To travel from the airport to the town people, the region’s name derives from cholna,
centre should cost around Rs 200/400 by meaning ‘moving’; to the locals, however,
autorickshaw/taxi. it’s known as Rohi. The population of over
100,000 spend their lives in constant search
LAL SUHANRA NATIONAL PARK for pasture and water. The dress and handi-
Located 35km east of Bahawalpur and cov- crafts of Cholistan – examples of which can be
ering a natural lake and a large man-made bought in Bahawalpur – are unique.
forest, this 51,588-hectare park (admission Rs 25; Except after the early autumn rains,
hsunrise-sunset) is a pleasant place to relax. when some vegetation blooms, Cholistan
Inside the main entrance, past the TDCP is a sandy wasteland with clumps of hardy
Motel and park office, is a children’s park with shrubs passing for oases. These give shelter
a small zoo containing local wildlife such as to many species of wildlife including rat-
imperial sandgrouse, partridge, pheasant, catcher, sparrowhawk, black buck, desert
rhesus monkeys, ciracal and civet cats, desert fox, Houbara bustard, imperial sandgrouse
fox and a pair of rhinos. Animal species and partridge.
found wild in the park include boar, hare, If you’d like to spend a night in the
jackal, mongoose, desert fox, porcupine, lark, desert you must first obtain a permit from
owl, hawk and nilgai (antelope). the Bahawalpur District Coordination
The PTDC (see p122) can arrange tours to Officer (DCO); apply through the PTDC in
this park (prices on application). Bahawalpur (see p122), which can also arrange
desert safaris.
Sleeping & Eating
TDCP Motel (%062-871144; r Rs 1100) Inside the Tours
gates, this motel has quiet gardens and a good Most safaris go between Channan Pir and
restaurant. If you’re on your own they may Derawar Fort. Dingarh Fort is accessible
take Rs 250 off the room rate. The TDCP also from Yazman but visits to Mojgarh, Marot
has a camping ground (camp sites Rs 300). and Mirgarh Forts require considerably
There are several government resthouses (r Rs more planning.
900) in the area but these are subject to avail- To explore much beyond Derawar Fort
ability – inquire at the PTDC office (see p122) you’ll need a 4WD or camel and a guide who
in Bahawalpur. knows the area intimately. Between October
and March the PTDC can organise camel
Getting There & Away tours, given at least three days’ notice. A
Catch one of the buses (Rs 25, 30 minutes) camel with ‘driver’ costs around Rs 750 per
from Bahawalpur’s main bus stand, which go day and an English-speaking guide is at least
as far as Lal Suhanra village. From there you’ll another Rs 750 per day. Local musicians and
have to take an autorickshaw to the park (Rs dancers can also be arranged. Bear in mind
50), or you could walk (about 3km). that a camel only covers about 12km to 15km
126 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • B h o n g M o s q u e lonelyplanet.com
a day and is only worth considering for the The fort remains the property of the Abbasi
novelty factor. family and you must apply to the Bahawalpur
To get further you’ll require a jeep, avail- PTDC (see p122) to request a permit from
able from the PTDC (booked at least a day Prince Salahuddin or Prince Falhouddin
ahead), costing Rs 4000 to Rs 6000 per day Abbasi on your behalf – allow at least a week
(depending on jeep quality). You’ll need for this (you’re charged for the phone calls to
adequate food and water supplies. Private arrange the permit).
companies like Travel Walji’s also run ex-
pensive but professionally run package tours, GETTING THERE & AWAY
however, these need to be prearranged in To get to Derawar Fort take a bus to Dera
Lahore or Islamabad. Nawab (Rs 35, one hour) and from there
hire a minivan (seating six) at Abbasi Chowk
Dera Nawab Sahib (Dera Nawab) (Rs 60, two hours). A taxi from Bahawalpur
PUNJAB
Seat of the Abbasi family, the tiny town costs about Rs 4000 for the day (including
of Dera Nawab is the usual gateway to waiting time).
Cholistan. There are three royal palaces The best time to visit is between November
here, but unfortunately they aren’t open to and February, or early morning or late after-
the public. You can take a distant peek at noon at other times of year, to avoid the noon
the late-19th-century Sadiq Garh, by far the heat. Take water and snacks with you.
grandest, from the gatehouse.
Channan Pir
GETTING THERE & AWAY The sleepy village of Channan Pir is about
Dera Nawab is the twin town of Ahmadpur 65km south of Bahawalpur, on the edge of
East (Ahmadpur). From Bahawalpur, there the desert. Every year around February/
are continuous minibus services (Rs 60, one March it swells with Cholistanis arriving by
hour). You’ll be set down at the turn-off to camel from surrounding settlements for the
Dera Nawab or Abbasi Chowk, Ahmadpur’s Channan Mela. This festival runs over seven
main square, from where there are minibuses consecutive Thursdays and Fridays (the fifth
to Dera Nawab (Rs 9, 15 minutes) and Uch and sixth days have special attractions such
Sharif (Rs 14, 25 minutes). as sporting events and theatrical perform-
ances), peaking during the full moon. Dates
Derawar Fort are variable – consult the PTDC (see p122)
The best-preserved and most accessible of in Bahawalpur.
Cholistan’s historic remains is the dramatic
fort at Derawar, 45km south of Dera Nawab. GETTING THERE & AWAY
This vast square structure was built in 1733 as Daily buses travel from Bahawalpur and
the headquarters of Sadiq Mohammed Khan Dera Nawab Sahib to Yazman, from where
I, the first nawab of Bahawalpur. you catch another bus to Channan Pir (Rs
Visible for many kilometres, the fort has 35, 45 minutes).
40 enormous bastions, most of them intact,
and it stands more than 30m high with a BHONG MOSQUE
circumference of 1.5km. Most of the interior This remarkable structure is located 50km
is in need of renovation and there isn’t actu- southwest of Rahim Yar Khan (a convenient
ally that much to see. The mosque outside jumping-off point to Bhong). The elaborate
the fort is in good repair, however. Made of Bhong Mosque was started by the late Sadar
marble, it was built on the exact lines of the Rais Ghazi Mohammad in the early 1930s
Moti Masjid in the Red Fort of Delhi (India). but took about half a century to complete. It
You may also be able to get a glimpse of the incorporates a stunning melange of Islamic
royal graveyard through a walled enclosure, design elements – the end result is unique
which is a five-minute walk to the east. Its and positively sublime. There are some strik-
tombs are adorned with exquisite blue tiles ing decorative embellishments such as gold
but it’s not open to visitors unless they are foil and exquisite calligraphy, among other
accompanied by a member of the Abbasi eye-catching features.
family. The exterior of the fort warrants a If you require accommodation, the best
visit in any case. options are found in Rahim Yar Khan.
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • U c h S h a r i f 127
Getting There & Away with, among other things, the conversion of
From Bahawalpur, take a bus to Rahim Yar Genghis Khan to Islam. The compound con-
Khan (Rs 250, four hours). From there it’s taining his flat-roofed shrine and mosque is
about 50km to Bhong Mosque (a minivan surrounded by a brick wall decorated with
costs Rs 35 and takes 1½ to two hours). A blue tiles. The shrine was built in the 14th
taxi from Bahawalpur to the Bhong Mosque century and is of interest for the original
will set you back around Rs 6000 for the woodcarvings on the pillars and the 40 beams,
return trip. some of which still have traces of early paint-
work. The saint’s urs is held on 19 Jamad Sani
UCH SHARIF (Islamic calendar).
With its name meaning ‘holy high place’, the
small town of Uch Sharif (or just Uch) is famous SHRINE OF JALALUDDIN BUKHARI
for its superb Sufi shrines, which are open and Hazrat Jalaluddin Bukhari (1303–1383),
the grandson of Jalaluddin Surkh Bukhari,
PUNJAB
free to all. It certainly warrants a visit.
Believed to date from around 500 BC or gained his nickname, Jehanian Jehangashat
earlier, Uch was under Hindu rule when (traveller of the world), because his search for
Alexander the Great invaded India. There enlightenment took him to Mecca, Medina,
are claims Alexander spent a fortnight here Mesopotamia, Syria, Egypt, Persia and Egypt
during which time he renamed it Alexandria. before he settled in Uch. He was a prominent
Mohammed bin Qasim entered Uch on his member of the Suhrawardiya Sufi branch and
march north; legend has it that the town’s was responsible for popularising it here.
numerous date palms are descended from The portal of the square shrine is supported
trees that grew from the stones of Arabian by wooden pillars in a poor state of repair,
dates brought by his soldiers. but the interior, with painted ceiling and two
After the arrival of Islam, Uch attracted re- tombs topped with turbans, is relatively well
ligious figures and many Islamic schools were preserved. The ancient carved door has sim-
founded here. By the 13th century it was one ple geometric and floral motifs. According to
of the subcontinent’s leading religious and legend, a gnarled tree outside the shrine was
cultural centres. Uch became an important planted by the saint himself. There is a tiny
base for the spread of two of the most impor- room, to the right of the door as you enter,
tant Sufi branches, the Sunni Qadiriya school said to house the footprint of Imam Ali.
of Syed Mohammed Ghous Jilani Hallabi and The saint’s urs is held on 10–12 Zilhaj.
the Shiite Suhrawardiya school, popularised Consult the Bahawalpur PTDC (see p122)
by Jalaluddin Bukhari. for exact dates, as they are variable.
is in a bad state of repair with no outer or- century. From then on until the early 16th
naments surviving. It’s worth a visit for its century it was repeatedly stormed by invad-
historical significance. ers from central and west Asia. It returned to
relative peace from 1528 to 1748 under the
Sleeping Mughals, when it became renowned for its
There’s no hotel here so the town is best vis- architecture, music, ceramics and artistry.
ited as a day trip from Bahawalpur (71km The city passed through various rival dy-
away), preferably arriving in the early morn- nasties into the hands of the Sikhs until the
ing before it gets too hot. British stormed the citadel in 1848–49 after
scoring a direct hit on the city ammunitions
Getting There & Away dump. The two-week ‘Siege of Mooltan’ later
Minibuses shuttle between Uch bazaar and became known as the Second Sikh War.
Ahmadpur East (Rs 22, 30 minutes), from Multan is located about 95km north of
where you can catch another to Bahawalpur’s Bahawalpur.
PUNJAB
MULTAN 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
PUNJAB
EATING TRANSPORT
Gun Emplacement & Lookout............9 C3 Bundu Khan...................................(see 33) Airport............................................. 39 A4
Institute of Blue Pottery Lasani Gardens.................................30 D3 Minibus to Bahawalpur.....................40 B4
Development............................... 10 D4 Mehfil Coffee Shop........................(see 21) PIA...................................................41 B4
Mausoleum of Baha-ud-Din Zakaria..11 C3 Shangrilla.........................................31 B4
Rd
Mausoleum of Shams-ud-Din To Multan Bypass
r Rd
Phase II (6km)
an
Sabzwari...................................... 12 D3
Bos
Nawabpu
Mausoleum of Sheikh Rukn-i-Alam..13 C3
Su
Rd LM Q R d
Tomb of Musa Pak Shahid............... 16 C4 30
i
LM Q
Tomb of Yusuf Gardezi.................... 17 C3 Rd
To Tasty Plus
Wali Muhammad Mosque............... 18 C4 Restaurant (1km);
Kutchery Daewoo (1.5km);
4 Chowk Jhang (162km);
Sahiwal (171km)
Ku Ghanta Garh
tch (Clocktower)
29 12
5 Nishtar er
Chowk y
Rd 1511 Aam Khas Rd
hah
LMQ
3 13 Garden
28 Masoom S
Rashid Rd
R Ghanta 34
d
ur Lange Khan Ha
Rd
Shahr Bohar 17 l
39 21 Chowk Rd Gate Rd
na
33 rwa Delhi
hahid R
Cantonment Abdali Rd 18
19 24 35 an Pa 16 Gate
ass Haram
Nusrat Rd
41 26 H Gate Ci
23 2 rcul To Main Bus Stand (500m);
d
6 a r R
1 d Pak Multan Cricket Stadium (1km);
Qasim Rd
Saddar 40 Dera 25 d Gate
38 r R Vehari (100km)
tan Rd
Bazaar Adda
A k ba City Ve
Tipu Sula 31 22 Chowk ha
Mu
Railway ri
zam Rd Aziz Rd
Quaid-i-A
mta
Hotel Station
20
z ab
7 Railway Station
Karachi (930km)
Rd
Rd Mulatan Cantonment
Shah
Sher Railway Station
To Bahawalpur
(95km)
h9am-4.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri) This well- arrange tours around Multan; an all-inclusive trip to Uch
stocked office has giveaway maps and sells postcards (Rs Sharif costs Rs 4000 (maximum four people).
5) and posters (Rs 25 to Rs 50). It can arrange tailor-made
tours in and around Multan (prices on application) – Sights & Activities
these include a visit to Multan’s Institute of Blue Pottery Multan has scores of shrines – too many to
Development and tours to local embroidery and camel-skin include here. If you’re interested in seeing
workshops. It can also arrange performances by traditional minor shrines consult the PTDC. As the urs
drummers, singers and puppeteers with at least two days’ dates (see each sight’s entry) vary from year
advance notice. Guides can be hired for Rs 500/1000 per to year, it’s best to get the exact dates from
half/full day (more if you travel out of Multan). the PTDC.
Tourism Development Corporation of Punjab
(TDCP; %9200955; 517-A Railway Rd; h8.30am-3pm QASIM BAGH FORT
Sun-Fri, 8.30am-noon Mon-Sat) Near the Hotel Silver Sand, Multan’s most prominent landmark, now
the TDCP operates a half-/full-day city tour for Rs 500/800 largely in ruins except for its gate and part
(maximum four people) that covers Multan’s major sights. of the outer walls and bastions, is Qasim Bagh
The half-day tour runs from 9am to 1pm and the full-day Fort (admission free; h24hr), near Hussain Agahi
tour from 9am to 1pm and 2pm to 6pm. TDCP can also and Chowk Bazaars.
130 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • M u l t a n lonelyplanet.com
Apart from the shrines, most of the fort was MAUSOLEUM OF BAHA-UD-DIN ZAKARIA
destroyed by the British in 1848–49 to avenge Just near the Mausoleum of Sheikh Rukn-i-
the death of Lieutenant Alexander vans Agnew, Alam, the Mausoleum of Baha-ud-Din Zakaria
killed in Multan by order of the Sikh governor. (1182–1262), father of Rukn-i-Alam, was built
Agnew’s memorial obelisk stands on a plinth at in 1263. A disciple of the Sufi mystic Hazrat
one of the highest points of the fort mound. Shahabuddin Umar Suhrawardy of Jerusalem,
Qasim Bagh, the small garden after which the he introduced the Suhrawardiya branch to
fort now takes its name, and the large Qasim the subcontinent and founded a university in
Bagh Stadium lie to the south. Although you can Multan. His tomb was badly damaged in 1848
still walk most of the way around the ruined but was later restored. The brick building has
ramparts, the most impressive remains are by a square base and an octagonal second storey
the main entrance from Kutchery Rd, a major supporting a dome, and is decorated with blue
hub of Multan. The British gun emplacement tiles and Arabic inscriptions.
at the south of the mound is the place for a Although the upper halves of this tomb
PUNJAB
PUNJAB
Tap into the traveller’s grapevine to find out
shrines, tombs and mosques in a fleeting visit. whether anyone has struck a newly opened or
Many are hidden in the old town; north of Pak renovated budget gem.
Gate (Circular Rd) is Wali Muhammad Mosque Hotel Taj (%4549319; Nawan Shaher Rd; s/d Rs 250/350)
(1758) and Phulhattan Mosque (1720), to the A good location, however, the rooms are bare
northwest is the beautifully tiled Tomb of Yusuf and very grotty. Should only be considered in
Gardezi and south of this is the Tomb of Musa Pak an emergency.
Shahid. There are also several ruined Hindu Hotel Shabroze (%4544224; Hassan Parwana Rd; s/d
temples in the area. Routes can be torturous – Rs 300/475, s/d wth air-con Rs 750/1100) Just off Dera
hire a guide or try your luck by asking locals to Adda Chowk, the Shabroze has small, bare
keep pointing you in the right direction. rooms but is OK for a night or two.
Hotel Shalimar (%4583245; Al-Sana Bldg, Hassan
BAZAARS Parwana Rd; s/d Rs 400/650, s/d with air-con Rs 800/1200;
At the base of the fort mound is the sprawling a) A standout in Multan’s lacklustre budget
bazaar and old town, connected to the rest of bundle, the rooms here are not too bad apart
the town by seven medieval gates. The main from being a smidgen gloomy.
markets are the Hussain Agahi & Chowk Bazaars,
flanked by antique wooden merchant houses MIDRANGE
and echoing Multan’s former importance as Many hotels in this category are centrally air-
a trade centre. conditioned, so before accepting a room, first
ensure it is adequately chilled. Most midrange
INSTITUTE OF BLUE POTTERY places mentioned here incur a 24.2% hotel tax
DEVELOPMENT (not included in the following reviews).
To see the production phases of blue pot- Hotel Firdos (%4572155; Karim Centre; s/d Rs 500/700,
tery, a traditional craft that is a Multan spe- s/d with air-con Rs 1400/2000) Just north of Dera Adda
ciality, visit this small but interesting institute Chowk, some rooms at Firdos are musty and
(%4548898; Mumtazabad Rd; h8am-3pm). The lovely rather unkempt – not great value. You’re bet-
items made here are sold in Pakistan and be- ter off opting for one of its considerably better,
yond and can also be purchased at the in- more expensive rooms.
stitute’s own showroom (prices range from Hotel Silver Sand (%4518061; 514 Railway Rd;
Rs 30 for a small vase to Rs 7000 for a large s/d Rs 700/1000; a) Located just off Aziz Hotel
one). For an informal tour meet the institute’s Chowk, Silver Sand is a sound choice apart
project director, Mr Shuaib Khan. from having some run-down rooms that are
An autorickshaw from the city centre is starved of natural light.
Rs 100 (one way). The PTDC and TDCP New Relax Hotel (%4511688; Kutchery Rd; s/d
can arrange tours to the institute (prices Rs 800/1000, s/d with air-con Rs 1100/1400; a) Neither
on application). new nor particularly relaxing, this hotel has
worn and weary rooms, making it the worst
SWIMMING of the best midrange batch.
Holiday Inn (Abdali Rd) If you’re all shrined out and Hotel Al-Sana (% 4547501; Sher Shah Rd; s/d
desperate for a cool dip, Holiday Inn allows Rs 1000/1500; a) The attraction of this hotel is
nonguests to use its pool for Rs 500 per day. that it’s quieter than many others, however,
132 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • M u l t a n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
the grassy central courtyard gets more points Chinese and Continental fare. Sweet tooths
than the rooms. will savour the ‘chocolate overload’ ice cream
Hotel Mangol (%4548231; LMQ Rd; s/d Rs 1000/1500; (Rs 60).
a) About 200m north of Dera Adda Chowk, Zanzibar (64A Abdali Rd; mains Rs 110-495; hnoon-
this is one of Multan’s most appealing midnight; a) Hip and happening, Zanzibar has
midrange offerings with good (albeit not attentive staff, a chic interior and a swanky cir-
luxurious) rooms. cular bar (all that’s missing is the alcohol!). The
Dream Huts (%4573882; Railway Rd; s/d Rs 1200/1500; ambitious menu here sports everything from
a) Quiet and set back from the road, the aver- seafood chowder (Rs 90) to hot dogs (Rs 140)
age rooms are somewhat offset by the garden to Mexican chicken fajitas (Rs 270). Zanzibar’s
courtyard. Opposite the TDCP office. dessert list even includes an Australian-
Continental Guesthouse (%4577939; 2507 New inspired ‘summer pavlova’ (Rs 125).
Abdali Colony; s/d Rs 1600/2000; a) The Continental Mehfil Coffee Shop (Holiday Inn, Abdali Rd; mains
is a little hard to find, so look for the sign Rs 125-310; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; a) Open to
PUNJAB
on LMQ Rd. Friendly staff and comfortable nonguests, this is good for a minor splurge.
rooms make it one of the better midrange Spaghetti carbonara followed by a banana
options. It’s located near the Multan Central split and cup of green tea will cost you Rs
Telephone Exchange, off LMQ Rd. 280/150/65 respectively.
Hotel Sindbad (%4512640; Nishtar Chowk; s/d Rs Shangrilla (mains Rs 140-690; hlunch & dinner; a)
1800/2600; a) Like Hotel Mangol, rooms at this In the Cantonment area, just off Quaid-i-
price should really have more attention to detail. Azam Rd, Shangrilla is a relaxing place to
Nonetheless, you’ll be adequately comfortable chow down on Multan’s finest Chinese cui-
here and if you’ve got any tourist-related que- sine. The menu includes golden oldies such as
ries, the PTDC office operates out of a converted sweet’n’sour chicken (Rs 270) and beef with
Sindbad room. The tariff includes breakfast in lemon sauce (Rs 250).
the recently renovated coffee shop. Bundu Khan (Abdali Rd; mains Rs 160-450; hnoon-
midnight; a) Next door to Zanzibar, although
TOP END not as funky, this restaurant still gets the
Holiday Inn is Multan’s only five-star hotel. thumbs up. The waiters are obliging and
The room rates here don’t include the there’s pleasant alfresco dining (indoor seating
24.2% tax. is also available). The Pakistani cuisine is tasty
Sheza Inn (%4782236; [email protected]; Kutchery but can be fiery, so request less chilli if your
Rd; s/d Rs 3000/3500; a) Sheza is no match for the taste buds aren’t up for the ride. Alternatively,
Holiday Inn, but the price won’t pack as much opt for the Chinese or fast-food offerings,
of a blow and you may even be able to cut it which include chicken honey wings (Rs 250)
further. Rooms are arranged around a central and chicken cheeseburgers (Rs 160).The ‘kids
garden – some are prone to noise when din- club’ will keep your little monsters occupied
ners are held here so choose carefully. Extra while you steal some quiet time.
money will get you a considerably more spa- Shangrilla Gardens & Barbecue Restaurant
cious and luxurious room. (Bahawalpur Rd; mains Rs 160-490; hdinner) You can
Holiday Inn (%4587777; 76 Abdali Rd; s/d Rs 7000/8000; opt for standard Pakistani or Continental food
ais) Although not as grand as most other here, eaten indoors or out in the garden. The
properties in this chain, you’ll still find all the jug of lassi (yogurt and iced-water beverage;
trimmings you’d expect of a Holiday Inn. The Rs 100) is sure to quench the most savage
affable receptionists may even shave a few summer thirst.
hundred rupees off the rate if you cry poor. Tasty Plus Restaurant (Khanewal Rd; mains Rs 210-410;
hlunch & dinner) The chefs here do a fairly good
Eating job of Pakistani, Chinese and Continental
Cheap meals are available around Dera cuisine. The succulent mutton leg steam roast
Adda Chowk, Ghanta Garh Chowk and (Rs 410 per 1kg serve) is enough for two.
the bazaars.
Midrange and upper-range restaurants Entertainment
have a 15% tax (not included here). CINEMA
Lasani Gardens (Rashidabad Chowk; mains Rs 80-250; Rex Cinema (Hassan Parwana Rd) Opposite the main
hlunch & dinner) Whips up the usual mix of post office, the Rex sometimes plays English-
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • D e r a G h a z i K h a n ( D G K h a n ) 133
language films (see newspapers for details). bus service is operated by Daewoo (%11007008;
Tickets cost Rs 30 to Rs 50. Khanewal Rd, Qaddafi Chowk), which has air-con
services (that include a light refreshment)
CRICKET to Faisalabad (Rs 270, four hours), Lahore
Multan, like most of Pakistan, loves cricket (Rs 400, 5¼ hours), Rawalpindi (Rs 580, 7½
and has spawned some of the nation’s finest hours), Bahawalpur (Rs 130, 1½ hours) and
players. To find out if there’s a worthwhile Sargodha (Rs 340, 4½ hours).
match coinciding with your visit, check
newspapers and ask the PTDC. TRAIN
Multan Cricket Stadium (Vehari Rd) The main venue All trains leave from the Multan Cantonment
for major cricket matches. Railway Station (Multan Cantt). There are
Qasim Bagh Stadium Located in the fort area, this daily services to Bahawalpur, Karachi, Lahore,
venue occasionally hosts cricket matches. Peshawar, Quetta and Rawalpindi. Check at
PUNJAB
the train station for fares and times at least a
Shopping few days before you intend to travel.
Many types of clothing are unique to Multan,
including embroidered kurtas for men, silk Getting Around
shirts and khussas (a pair of these handmade Buses 1 and 3 run from Dera Adda Chowk to
leather shoes will cost anywhere from Rs 500 Nawan Shahr Chowk (Rs 3), Nishtar Chowk
to Rs 2000). Multan is also known for camel- (Rs 3), Kutchery Chowk (Rs 3), Eidgah
skin lamps, blue pottery, carpets, lacquered Mosque (Rs 5) and finally the main bus stand
wooden objects, hand-embroidered work in (Rs 8). Others run from Ghanta Garh Chowk
silk, and earthenware vases, sometimes inlaid to Dera Adda Chowk. Fixed route tongas run
with tiny mirror tiles. from Aziz Hotel Chowk to Dera Adda Chowk
Hussain Agahi & Chowk Bazaars Sells, among other and then on to Bohar and Haram Gates for Rs
things, some good traditional handicrafts. Bargain hard. 7 to Rs 9 per ticket.
Karim Centre Has a number of shops selling good-value An autorickshaw from the main train station
music CDs (mainly Pakistani and Indian). Karim is situated costs around Rs 40 to Dera Adda Chowk and
below Hotel Firdos. Rs 65 to the fort. To hire an autorickshaw for
Nigar Khana Housed in a former ammunition store, this a half/full day costs about Rs 600/800, which
tourist-oriented shop sells a range of handicrafts. It’s near should include the waiting time (foreigners
Qasim Bagh Fort. are usually quoted much higher rates so don’t
Punjab Government Small Industries Corporation be shy to haggle). Autorickshaws are much
(Aziz Shahid Rd) In the Cantonment area, this is another quicker and more convenient than the buses.
reliable place to search for handicrafts.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Getting There & Away The airport is a couple of kilometres west of the
city centre. From the airport to the centre auto-
AIR rickshaws should charge Rs 100 (you’ll probably
There are flights are operated by PIA (%9200024; be asked for more – bargain hard). Taxis charge
65 Abdali Rd; h8am-8pm), including twice daily around Rs 300 from the airport to Dera Adda
services to Karachi (Rs 5150, one hour and 10 Chowk. There are free luggage trolleys at the
minutes) and Islamabad via Lahore (Rs 4550, airport or porters can be hired for Rs 50.
2½ hours; to Lahore Rs 3400, one hour).
CAR
BUS & MINIBUS If you’d like to hire a car with driver one op-
Minibuses to Bahawalpur leave frequently tion is the PTDC (%512640; Hotel Sindbad, Nishtar
from the stand just west of Dera Adda Chowk; h8am-8pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8am-noon & 2-8pm
Chowk. Fri), which charges about Rs 250 per hour for a
The chaotic main bus stand east of town standard small car; with air-con it’s Rs 350.
has larger air-con buses to Bahawalpur
(Rs 60, 1½ hours), Faisalabad (Rs 160, five DERA GHAZI KHAN (DG KHAN)
hours), Karachi (Rs 630, 12 to 13 hours), %0641
Lahore (Rs 250, six hours), Rawalpindi (Rs DG Khan is of little interest to travellers ex-
370, eight hours) and elsewhere. The best cept as a transit stop before Dera Ismail Khan
134 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • A r o u n d D e r a G h a z i K h a n lonelyplanet.com
It is best to check with locals and the PTDC BC and is the second most important Indus
(see p128) in Multan before travelling. Valley civilisation site, but it’s not nearly as
well preserved as Moenjodaro (see p176).
Getting There & Away This, combined with the difficulty in reach-
The main bus stand has services to multiple ing it, means that those without a specialist
destinations including Multan (Rs 70, two interest may be disappointed. On the flip side,
hours), Lahore (Rs 280, eight hours) and some travellers come here purely to soak up
Rawalpindi (Rs 380, 10 hours). the site’s tranquil setting.
Excavations have been carried out almost
AROUND DERA GHAZI KHAN every spring since 1986 by the universities of
Shrine of Sarkhi Sarwar California and Wisconsin, in conjunction with
Thirty kilometres along the road from DG the Pakistani Department of Archaeology. If
Khan to Balochistan is the shrine of Sarkhi you’re interested in learning more about this
Sarwar, a popular truck stop for drivers to ancient civilisation, the Harappa Museum
grab some food and say a prayer before enter- (see opposite) sells a booklet, The Glory
ing Balochistan. The shrine has an urs festival that Was Harappa, by Dr FA Khan, for Rs
on 30 Chet. 200. You should also be able to find spe-
cialist books about Harappa at Pakistan’s
Fort Munro major bookshops.
En route to Quetta, about 80km from DG
Khan, Fort Munro was built as a hill station Information
by the British and is still the only such resort There’s nowhere to change money in Harappa
in south Punjab. It’s named after a Colonel itself, but there is a bank and a handful of
Munro, at one time commissioner of DG authorised private moneychangers that deal
Khan. Many tribal chiefs of Balochistan and in foreign exchange at nearby Sahiwal. The
a few government officials have summer resi- private moneychangers usually give a better
dences here, but it’s more or less empty in rate – most can be found at Sahiwal’s Jinnah
winter. There is a small British cemetery at Chowk, some just opposite the Habib Bank
the top of the hill. Even if you don’t plan to (ask around). Several banks also change
stay here, the breathtaking drive up onto the money including Habib Bank (Jinnah Chowk, Sahiwal;
Balochistan plateau is its own reward. %9am-1pm Mon-Sat), but check around for the
You can stay at TDCP Motel (%0346-9931435; r Rs best rates.
500). Advance reservations are recommended
(especially from June to September). The Site
The settlement of Khar, 5km before Fort Harappa comprises a citadel mound, defen-
Munro, has an interesting fort built by the sive walls, a drainage system, a cemetery and a
British and now used as a levy station. Here huge granary. However, in the past it has been
the road forks; left to Fort Munro, right plundered so much by local villagers for bricks
towards Balochistan. The Rakhni Valley on to build their houses, and especially by the
the other side of the provincial border has British for material for the Lahore to Multan
verdant orchards. railway line, that there is relatively little to
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • H a r a p p a 135
see at the site itself. A path snakes around the but check a few rooms first, as some have a
compound with viewing platforms and a few stale, smoky odour. You should be able to get a
signs with English descriptions. 10% discount if you politely twist their arm.
At the site is the small but well-kept and City Inn Hotel (%4220509; Tufail Shaheed Rd; s/d Rs
interesting Harappa Museum (admission Rs 200; 500/700, s/d with air-con Rs 1000/1300) Located just off
h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm summer, 9am-4pm the Lahore to Multan road, this is another
winter). It exhibits items from the cemetery and worthy choice. The room quality is above aver-
other parts of the site, including etched carn- age and the hotel absorbs less noise pollution
elian beads, shell objects, stone tools, domestic than many other Sahiwal properties.
implements, pottery, toys, earthenware, seals Starlite Hotel (%4464114; Stadium Rd; r Rs 1200; a)
with the mysterious Moenjodaran script, ani- Another decent choice. Apart from having
mal and human figurines and stone weights, good rooms, it cops less traffic noise than
as well as articles from other Indus Valley many other hotels.
sites. Like the Moenjodarans, the Harappans Hotel Sea Rose (%226377; Grand Trunk Rd; r Rs 800,
PUNJAB
traded with Mesopotamia and other faraway r with air-con Rs 1250) Situated just outside town
lands. One fascinating display shows a recon- on the Lahore to Multan road, the Sea Rose is
structed Harappan burial. No photography is more than merely sweet sounding. Apart from
allowed in the Harappa Museum. having nice rooms, it’s a little set back from
the main road, making it reasonably quiet.
Sleeping & Eating There’s a good dining hall that includes some
HARAPPA SITE simple favourites like roast chicken (Rs 250)
Archaeological Department Resthouse (%4431099; and French fries (Rs 55).
per person Rs 200) Located near the museum, this is Dreamland Guest House (%4222283; Liaquat Rd; s/d
the only accommodation possibility at Harappa Rs 1180/1355; a) Dreamland’s rooms are not as
itself. It’s nothing flash, but it’s by far the most dreamy as the name suggests – on the con-
convenient (and peaceful) accommodation on trary, they’re rather gloomy – but it’s still a
offer; however, there are only two rooms. Meals passable possibility if other places are full.
can be prepared by the chowkidar (caretaker) Iris Hotel (%4226727; Railway Rd; s/d Rs 3000/5000;
with advance notice. a) Newly built, the Iris is Sahiwal’s most
To stay, you must book in advance either luxurious option. It is geared towards the
here or through the Department of Archaeology wedding market, which can pack the place
(%042-7662645, open from 8am to 3pm out, although on quieter nights you can enjoy
Monday to Thursday and Saturday, and 8am pretty good Pakistani, Continental and barbe-
to noon Friday), at Lahore Fort. cue fare in the restaurant.
complex is a children’s fun park and some here for Sialkot) before crossing the Chenab
moderately priced restaurants and shops. River, rising to the Potwar Plateau and cross-
ing the Jhelum River at Jhelum.
Getting There & Away
AIR Jhelum
Twice daily flights to Karachi are operated by %0544
PIA (%9200786; 26 New Civil Lines) for Rs 6050 (one There is little to attract the visitor in Jhelum,
hour and 40 minutes). though it is a transport hub, and you can
change money and organise 4WD tours (see
BUS Paradise Hotel, below) to the Salt Range and
The main bus stand is on Abdullahpur Rd in Rohtas Fort.
the northeast of the city. Reputable private
buses also operate from the main bus stand in- SLEEPING
cluding Kohistan (%783681), with daily services Faran Inn (%628671; s/d Rs 500/700, s/d with air-con
PUNJAB
to Multan (Rs 210, six hours), Lahore (Rs 150, 1200/1500; a) An OK choice near the bazaar,
2½ hours), Rawalpindi (Rs 220, five hours) with basic rooms. The dilapidated Zeelaf Hotel
and Sahiwal (Rs 190, two to three hours), nearby would be an emergency option.
among other destinations. Paradise Hotel (%614612; s/d Rs 700/900) Look
The most comfortable private bus company for the large Paradise Travels billboard in
is Daewoo (%111007008; Chowk Akbarabad Rd), located the cantonment and find the hotel beneath.
near the Allied Hospital. It plies the following Friendly, with clean, fan-cooled rooms (no
routes: Lahore (Rs 230, 2¼ hours), Multan (Rs musty carpets), this hotel is the best option.
270, four hours), Peshawar (Rs 530, 6½ hours) The associated travel business can organise
and Rawalpindi (Rs 350, 3½ hours). The price 4WD tours around the region.
includes a light refreshment.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
TRAIN There are numerous minibuses that head
Three express intercity trains run daily to from the Grand Trunk (GT) bus stand to
Lahore (two hours). The daily Chenab Express Rawalpindi (Rs 80), Lahore (Rs 1100) and
goes to Rawalpindi (11 hours), Multan (five Chatwal (Rs 65).
hours) and Bahawalpur (eight hours). The
Chenab Express also continues to Peshawar Rohtas Fort
(15 hours). The Faisalabad Express is the fastest Some 16km northwest of Jhelum, colossal
daily train to Karachi (16 hours). For fares and Rohtas Fort is an extraordinary example of
bookings check at the Faisalabad Train Station military architecture. It was started in 1543 by
at least a few days before you intend to travel. the Pashtun ruler Sher Shah Suri, to protect the
Passenger Suzukis (Rs 8) connect the bus strategic Peshawar to Calcutta (now Kolkata)
and train stations to Kuchery Bazaar. road from the Mughals and their allies. He
never lived to see its completion and work was
LAHORE TO ISLAMABAD carried on by succeeding rulers. However, it was
The Grand Trunk (GT) Rd and the Lahore– soon made redundant when Akbar moved his
Islamabad Motorway (M2) provide a choice of frontier to Attock and built a new fort there.
routes between the two cities and, if you have The vast fort is now in ruins except for the
time to jump off the bus, access to an ancient crenulated outer walls and most of its 12 gates
region boasting one of the world’s largest salt and 68 bastions. The best-preserved remains
mines, an awesome stone fort and Hindu and are to the west; walk through the town to the
Buddhist relics. The PTDC and TDCP run western Sohal Gate to start your explorations.
tours that include the Salt Range and Rohtas Built to an irregular plan on hilly ground, its
Fort – contact their offices in Lahore (p101) 12m-thick terraced ramparts have a perimeter
or Islamabad (p77). of more than 4km and vary in height from
Leaving Lahore and running almost due 10m to 18m. You can still walk along some of
north across the flat Punjab plain, the GT them but they are crumbling, so watch your
Rd runs past the industrial megabazaar of step. An internal wall separates the inner fort
Gujranwala (68km) and Wazirabad (turn off (or citadel for the elite) at the northwest from
© Lonely Planet Publications
138 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • L a h o re t o I s l a m a b a d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
the outer fort of soldiers and citizens, where record of the ancient sea that once flowed
the sleepy town still exists. over the Indus plain. The salt formed when
Little remains of the interior, but there are the sea stagnated and dried, and subsequent
two pavilions of the haveli of Man Singh (gov- geological movement formed these massive
ernor of Lahore and a general in the time of deposits into the 300km range.
his son-in-law Akbar the Great), which you Khewra, home to the second-largest salt
can climb for a view over the whole fort. To mine in the world, is accessed via Lilla or Kala
the west, at the pinnacle of the outer wall, a Kahar on the M2 motorway, or via Chakwal
high stone platform marks the burj (execu- (with both road and rail links to the GT Rd
tion tower); victims would be thrown from at Mandra). Salt has been mined here since
here into the ditch below. Two gates in the ancient times, and exploited commercially
northern wall lead down to freshwater wells at least since the Mughal era. The British
and the Kahan River. You could spend two expanded the operation in 1872, a couple
or three hours exploring the grounds. Bring of decades after wresting the territory from
PUNJAB
a hat, and although drinks can be bought in the Sikhs. Salt mine tours (%0458-211137; US$6
the town, it’s wise to carry your own. or Rs equivalent; h9am-6pm) take you through
the caverns gouged out of the salt; in places
SLEEPING the salt is crystal clear, in others pinkish-red.
To visit the fort at dawn or dusk (recom- There are pools of brine, salty stalactites and
mended) you should stay the night in Dina, even an underground mosque created out of
17km from Jhelum and a busy stop on the GT salt bricks. A Pakistan Mineral Development
Rd. Similar Iqbal Hotel (%0544-630624; GT Rd; s/d Rs Corporation (PMDC) Tourist Resort (%0544-
1000/1200; a) and Al-Kousar (%0544-630892; GT Rd; 211118 ext 251; s/d Rs 1100/1300; a) at Khewra can
r Rs 1500; a) are neighbours at the northwest be reserved if no officials are staying there.
(Islamabad) end of town. Both have clean, Collocated with the Tourist Resort, the
comfortable rooms with TV and phone, en PMDC also operates the Allergological Asthma
suites with hot water, and restaurants. Resort that claims to offer asthma suffers long-
term relief. The technique was developed in
GETTING THERE & AWAY the Soviet Union when salt miners found that
From Dina you can take a bus (Rs 15) or hire their respiratory conditions were cured after
a taxi (Rs 550 including waiting time and re- spending extended periods underground in
turn) to Rohtas. The turn-off to Rohtas is the salt mine. The program offered involves
southeast of town. The last bus back to Dina spending six hours a days for 24 days under-
officially leaves Rohtas at 3pm. Several trains ground in a special section of the salt mine.
a day stop in Dina bound for Rawalpindi or Five kilometres west of Choa Saidan Shah,
Lahore but times are not as convenient as site of a popular Sufi shrine, lies Ketas, a major
the numerous buses and minibuses plying Hindu pilgrimage site before Partition and still
the route. a rewarding place to visit. Several 8th- to 10th-
century temples, a ruined fort and a viewing
The Salt Range platform surround a translucent pool, which
Little known and seldom visited, the bar- legend says was formed from a teardrop shed
ren but interesting Salt Range is a geological by Shiva, in mourning for his dead wife.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
139
Balochistan
The southwestern province of Balochistan is a hard place to make a living in – or travel
through. It’s a place of contradictions, at once Pakistan’s largest and most sparsely inhabited
region, rich in natural resources but with an economically marginalised population. Mostly
stony desert and sharp mountains, its importance lies in its strategic location, sitting astride
the trade routes (both ancient and modern) to Iran, Afghanistan and the Arabian Sea.
Balochistan’s capital is Quetta, a low-slung city with a dusty frontier ambience. Turbaned
and thickly bearded Baloch and Pashtun tribesmen rub shoulders with Afghan refugees in
its bazaars, and women dressed in billowing burkas are a common sight. For many visitors,
Quetta is all they see of Balochistan, but there are several places worth exploring nearby,
from the comparative green of Hazarganji-Chiltan National Park to the cool surrounds of
Ziarat hill station, the beloved retreat of Pakistan’s founder Jinnah.
Further from Quetta and travel becomes tougher. The long distances and poor infrastruc-
BALOCHISTAN
ture put off many travellers, so few visitors make it to junction towns like Sibi near the Bolan
Pass, famed for its cattle fair, let alone to the truly wild Makran Coast. Security also plays a
part in keeping visitor numbers low, however. A low-level insurgency by Baloch nationalists
pushes some places out of reach, while trouble from restive southern Afghanistan occasionally
spills across the border. Taking trusted safety advice before planning a trip is essential. But
for those able to make it here, the hospitality and generosity of the people of this region
is a glowing feature of any visit.
HIGHLIGHTS
Gorge on the spiced roast lamb – and the
rough frontier ambience – of Quetta (p142),
the regional capital
Quetta Ziarat
Traverse the Bolan Pass (p153) through Bolan Pass
the mountains, the old nomad’s route to Sibi
Central Asia
Chill out amid the greenery and views at
Ziarat (p151), Jinnah’s hill station retreat
Get lost amid the camel races and cultural
performances at Sibi Mela (see the boxed
text, p152), Balochistan’s biggest festival
BALOCHISTAN 0
0
200 km
120 miles
NORTHWEST
Lake Bund To Qila Saifullah FRONTIER
Khushdil & Zhob AFGHANISTAN PROVINCE
Khan
Pishin
Kanai Sandeman Ziarat To
To Kach DI Khan
Chaman Tangi
(50km)
& Khojak Kuchlagh Chautair
Hanna Fern Mughal
Pass Tangi Kandahar
Lake Urak Prospect E Takht-i-
Tangi Point R RANG Suleiman
KAKA
SULEIMAN RANGE
Khost To Sibi (3374m)
QUETTA Zhob
Hazarganji- Harnai Pass BA
Chiltan NP TO ZHOB
Sharan Musa
Chaman Khel
0 40 km See Enlargement Qila Saifullah
Spezand Khojak Pass Bazar
0 20 miles Pishin
Kolpur Bolan Ziarat
PISHIN Mekhtar
Mastung Pass Mach QUETTA SIBI Sanjawi Loralai
LORALAI
Rakhni
Hazarganji- Spezand Harnai
Pir Gheib Bibi Nani Chiltan Gumbaz
National Park Pass Kohlu To DG
Mastung
Mawand Khan (50km);
Dadhar Multan (145km)
Nushki Sibi
Mehrgarh KOHLU
Zãhedãn HILLS Mithri
CHAGAI Chagai Padag DERA
Road KALAT KACHHI BUGTI
Dera Bugti
Kalat KACHHI Bellpat
Taftan Nokkundi Dalbandin Padag
Yakmach PLAIN
UH Nuttal
CHAGAI K
Hamun-i- S Dera Sui
Mashkel R A Kharan Surab Murad
KHUZDAR Jumali Jacobabad
Gwalishtap KHARAN
Ma Drug Shikarpur
shk
el
E
G
Khuzdar Sukkur
Washuk
N
IRAN
Rv
BALOCHISTAN
R
SINDH
y
Sahana Hw
r
GE
y
ve
N RAN Nag
w
Wad
KIRTHAR
Ri
SIAHA Mugalgori
lH
us
na
Ind
Rakh Gajar
shan tio
Na
INDIA
v
Porali
PANJGUR
Nal R
Panjgur
Shahbaz GE
Kalat RAN
CENTRA KRAN Awaran
River
L MA
Gish Rv r
Rive Bela
Rv
Mand Hingol
ng
Park Uthal
River MAK RAN
t THE
sh Liari
iver
T RANGE Kandracho
Da Sunstar MAKRAN COAS Hinglaj
b R
Pasni Ras
Gwadar Kalmat Gaddani
Jiwani Gwadar Ormara
Bay Bay Sonmiami
Bay Thatta
KARACHI
ARABIAN SEA
the British controlled courts of appeal and Islamabad fanned the flames of discontent
arbitrated in intertribal disputes. until insurgency broke out again in 2005.
At the time of Partition in 1947, military Widespread violence was only temporarily
coercion forced the tribal chiefs to give up halted by the army’s killing of the Baloch na-
their powers. However, with little invest- tionalist leader Nawab Akbar Khan Bugti a year
ment in infrastructure both before and since later, and the calamity of the huge floods that
Independence, central control over the province swept Balochistan in the summer of 2007.
has remained weak, with intertribal fighting and
instability a persistent theme of recent times. People
The 1952 discovery of natural gas at Sui Almost half Balochistan’s population lives
in east Balochistan only compounded mat- within 85km of Quetta. Many are semino-
ters. Balochis saw little dividend from their madic pastoralists and shepherds. There
natural wealth and political alienation led to are three main indigenous groups – ethnic
full-blown conflict in the 1970s that saw direct Baloch, Brahui and Pashtuns – along with set-
military rule imposed on the province. After tlers from other parts of Pakistan, and a still-
two decades of relative calm, increased gas significant population of Afghan refugees. The
exploitation and political backsliding from Brahui, found largely in central Balochistan,
142 Q U E T TA • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com
may be the last major descendants of the Indus in burkas, and honking rickshaws. Travelling
Valley civilisation, although little is known of in the other direction, Balochistan can seem
their origins. Pashtuns form the majority of a wild and dusty place after the humidity
the population in northern Balochistan, but and greenery of Punjab.
are also an important minority in the rest of At an altitude of almost 1700m, Quetta is
the province. cooler than most parts of Pakistan in summer
During the past decade, the region (es- but the road southwest to Taftan and Zahedan
pecially around Quetta) has seen an influx can still be hot and heavy going. In the thick
of Afghan refugees who have fled their war- of winter it’s bone-chillingly cold and it can
ravaged country in search of stability. snow in January.
Climate
Balochistan is outside the monsoon zone HISTORY
and experiences great extremes of climate. The town is believed to have taken its name
In winter the temperature can fall as low as from the ancient fort (kwatta in Pashto) that
-20°C in some areas. In summer it ranges protected the roads to Afghanistan, Persia
from around 18°C to 50°C, although the tem- and India. Quetta didn’t come into its own
perature has been known to edge over 50°C on until the British era and even then was lit-
the plains. The weather is at its most pleasant tle more than a small arsenal until the late
from around March to late April and from 19th century.
mid-September to November. The coastal In 1730 it came under the control of the
belt known as the Makran is mostly hot and Khan of Kalat, who made it his northern
humid throughout the year. capital. In 1876 the British administrator Sir
Robert Sandeman signed a treaty with the
BALOCHISTAN
QUETTA 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
BALOCHISTAN
on
Jail R
Tip
tt
Cantonment
(Ly
Du u
Rd
d
rra
Rd
ni
Na To Quetta Club (700m);
on
47 Museum (2km)
rg
Za
Ayub
Rd
31
Stadium 15
ah
37
n
Jin
Ha
li R 8
d Rd
Gy
m
e
kh
lleg
H
Racecourse an 29
ab
a 38
Co
ib
Rd
N
46
al
ff
12
Sta
a
42
48 34 6
11
Ashram Rd
4 7
Circular Rd 3
Liaquat 40
Sp Park
inn
Rd
y Su
Rd raj 35
36 Ga
lat
nj
a
Rd
Ad
30
Rd
5
Mannan Suraj Ganj
n
Missio
Chowk Bazaar
24 13 Iqba
l R Ali B
Rd
d aha
Rd
dur
White
Sar Rd
33
ah
(Togdar Isa
n
Mizan hi R Kha
Jin
17 Kandahari Chowk d) nR
2 Bazaar 39 d
Waf
43 a Rd 16
Al
)
Rd
am
da 18
Rd
r R
on
d
Joint
tt
Rd
(Ly
1
sjid
Liaquat
Rd
Ma
To Viewpoint Bazaar
Prin 14 10
on
Park (3.2km)
ce 28 45
ho
Rd
Rd
rg
Train
Za
at
Co
Station lvin
qu
41
Lia
Rd
27 32
Sadiq
9 Park
Rd
Ka n
Pa
ay
Rd 26 23 tel
nnah i
gh
Ji 22
s
Rd
au
20 25
Rd
19
on
To Sariab Rd Ste
wa
cC
(1km) 44 R d t r
M
21
To Main Bus Stand (1.5km);
Sadabahar Private Bus Company (1.5km);
Geological Survey of Pakistan Museum (1.5km)
144 Q U E T TA • • I n f o r m a t i o n lonelyplanet.com
8.5km north of the centre and can be reached Frontier Post is also printed in Quetta and
by taxis and autorickshaws (see p150). covers the region well.
For a good lookout over the city, go to
Viewpoint Park, which is reached by a track Medical Services
from Brewery Rd, to the west of the train There are plenty of pharmacies around
station. It’s particularly breathtaking just Sandeman Civil Hospital and the Maryton
before sunset. and Fabs’s hotels.
Christian Hospital (Mission Hospital; %2824906;
INFORMATION Mission Rd)
Bookshops Lady Dufferin Hospital (%2836537; McConaughay Rd)
Bookland (Jinnah Rd) Has a reasonably good stock of Sandeman Civil Hospital (%9203334; Jinnah Rd)
English-language novels and Pakistan-related books as Quetta’s main hospital.
well as stocking The Economist, Newsweek and Time.
Quetta Serena bookshop (Quetta Serena hotel; Money
Zarghoon Rd) Hotel bookshop with easily Quetta’s best Changing cash isn’t a problem in Quetta, but
selection of novels, maps and coffee-table books, as well as travellers cheques frequently draw blank looks
postcards and international news magazines. from bank staff. Authorised private money-
changers are often the quickest places, operat-
Consulates ing from around Jinnah and Iqbal Rds. The
Afghanistan consulate (%/fax 9202549; Prince Rd; hours included below indicate when you are
hvisa applications 10am-1pm & 2-3pm Tue & Thu) able to change foreign currency.
One-month single-entry visas cost US$30 and are usually Bank of Pakistan (Jinnah Rd; h9am-1.30pm Mon-
issued on the day. Southern Afghanistan’s safety situation Thu, 9am-12.30pm Fri & Sat) Main branch.
is extremely volatile and nonwork travel is strongly advised Habib Bank (Jinnah Rd; h9am-12.30pm Mon-Thu,
BALOCHISTAN
against. 9-11.30am Fri & Sat) The Habib’s main branch has a
Iranian consulate (%843527; 2-33 Hali Rd; hvisa 24-hour ATM.
applications 8.30am-noon & 3-4pm Sat-Wed) A one- Muslim Commercial Bank (MCB; Iqbal Rd; h9am-
month visa costs Rs 3000 with two passport photos 1.30pm Mon-Thu, 9am-12.30pm Fri & Sat) Has a 24-hour
(women must have their head covered). Travellers report ATM.
Quetta as being an unreliable place to get a visa; check in Standard Chartered Bank (Jinnah Rd; h9am-5pm
advance, and apply in Islamabad by preference. Mon-Thu, 9am-12.30pm & 3-5pm Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat)
The most consistent place to change travellers cheques,
Emergency although there’s a daily limit of US$300 on how much
Police emergency (%15; h24hr) you can change, and a Rs 500 commission. Has a 24-hour
ATM.
Foreigners’ Registration
Foreigners’ Registration Office (FRO; %9202979; Permits
Staff College Rd) Nationals of 16 countries are required to Home & Tribal Affairs Office (%9201036; Balo-
register – see p378. chistan Secretariat, Ground fl, New Block; h8.30am-2pm
Mon-Thu & Sat, 8.30am-noon Fri) Issues permits for travel
Internet Access in Balochistan (beyond Quetta).
Most internet cafés charge Rs 15 per hour, but
as in much of Pakistan, connection speeds are Post
slow and the computers old. Most places are DHL (%9201409; GPO, Zarghoon Rd; h9am-2pm
open from around 9am to midnight. There Mon-Thu & Sat, 9-11am Fri)
are two main clusters: Main post office (GPO; Zarghoon Rd; h9am-2pm &
Itanium Net (Jinnah Rd) One of three internet cafés here, 2.30-7pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9-11am & 3-7pm Fri) At the
in the arcade behind Coca Cola–fronted juice bars and shops. intersection with Iqbal Rd. If you’re sending a parcel, men
Friends Net (Jinnah Rd) On the side street behind the sitting outside the GPO will sew it up in cheap linen for
Dolphin bakery; Ocean Net and others are also here. around Rs 20 to Rs 100 depending on the size.
Reasonably new PCs.
Tourist Information
Media Culture & Tourism Cell (CTC; %9202933; Balochistan
The Balochistan Times is the province’s Secretariat, Room 4, 1st fl, Block 4; h8.30am-2pm Mon-
English-language newspaper, although the Thu & Sat, 8.30am-noon Fri) The CTC operates resthouses
lonelyplanet.com Q U E T TA • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 145
in Ziarat, Gaddani, Gwadar and Dalbandin, and you can bloodstains still visible – used in 1919 to kill
make reservations here. a British commander. Other galleries within
PTDC office (%825826; Azad Muslim Hotel, Jinnah Rd; the complex exhibit Qurans (one written in
h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Sat, to 6.30pm in summer) the hand of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb),
Come here to get the latest travel safety advice and pick manuscripts and calligraphy. Some dusty old
up a good, free Quetta city map, as well as postcards and photos give a fascinating glimpse of Quetta
a few tourist books. The PTDC can also arrange guides before the 1935 earthquake.
and make reservations for you at PTDC accommodation The museum can be tough to find – ask
anywhere in Pakistan, and has information on trains and locals to point you in the direction of the Mian
buses. Ismail Mosque; the museum is adjacent.
BALOCHISTAN
avoid walking the streets alone late at night. gems and fossils to astrogeology. It’s worth
Because Quetta is a conservative society, asking the staff for a guided tour, as not all
you’re going to receive a warmer reception if exhibits are brilliantly labelled.
you dress and behave respectfully.
Command & Staff College Museum
SIGHTS This museum (Staff College Rd; admission free; h9am-
While Quetta is an old town, the 1935 earth- 1pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri) has a small private
quake destroyed any historic sights, com- collection built up during the days when the
pletely levelling the place. Instead, Quetta’s then Indian Staff College was the Raj’s answer
attractions are its rough-around-the-edges to West Point. Field Marshal Montgomery,
frontier atmosphere, particularly in evidence the WWII hero of El Alamein, was an in-
in the bazaars (p148), and its people – sitting structor here. The museum has a small but
at a juice bar or teashop people-watching is interesting collection of militaria, paintings
a great way to spend an hour or two. Quetta and photos, but you need to be an army buff
does have a few interesting museums, how- to get the most from a visit.
ever, and there’s a small British memorial to Because this is a private collection you
the (Christian) dead on Jinnah Rd near the should arrange a visit through the PTDC of-
Standard Chartered Bank. fice (see left). Take some ID along with you.
is possibly the only swimming pool in Hotel Fabs’s (%2825762; Saleem Plaza, Jinnah
Balochistan where women are welcome. Rd; s/d Rs 350/450) This is a good-value choice,
but frequently full to bursting. Rooms and
SLEEPING bathrooms are slightly better than average,
Quetta has some of the cheapest accommoda- although front-of-house rooms overlook a
tion in Pakistan but there are also some more busy junction on Jinnah Rd. The attached
salubrious options for those with plumper restaurant has had good reports.
wallets. As always, earplugs are handy as lots Hotel Maryton (% 2825764; Jinnah Rd; s/d/tr
of hotels overlook busy roads. Rs 350/500/600) A fair enough option – rooms are
Winter nights are cold in Quetta, so make a bit worn (and have lots of traffic noise) but
sure you ask for an extra blanket. Hotels will are just about adequate. Good in a pinch, but
often provide gas heaters for an extra charge you can get more for your money elsewhere.
(around Rs 100), but it’s essential to turn these Zulfiqar Hotel (%2822720; Prince Rd; s/d Rs 350/500)
off before going to sleep because of the risk of This is another decent budget choice, with
carbon monoxide poisoning. rooms around a grassy courtyard that adds
a much-needed touch of green. Some of the
Budget rooms are a bit cramped but otherwise your
CAMPING money is well spent here, especially if you get
Hotel Bloom Star (%2833350; fax 2833353; 8 Stewart one of the quieter rooms at the back.
Rd; camp sites per person Rs 150, per vehicle Rs 120)
Overlanders have been pitching their tents Midrange
in the grassy courtyard of this hotel for years Qasr-e-Gul (%825192; Suraj Ganj Bazaar; s/d Rs 1050/1300;
now, and they always receive a good wel- a) A consistently good midrange hotel, set a
come. Added bonuses include secure parking block back from the bustle of the main road.
BALOCHISTAN
and helpful management who are a mine of Rooms and bathrooms are clean and well ap-
information for your onward route. pointed, and the management is helpful. Its
location near the sajji (roast lamb) restaurants
HOTELS make eating out a quick and easy option.
Azad Muslim Hotel (% 2824269; Jinnah Rd; s/d Hotel Qasr-e-Naz (% 2822821; Jinnah Rd; s/d
Rs 100/200) The cheapest of the cheap in Quetta, Rs 500/700, s/d with air-con Rs 1000/1200; a) One of the
the Azad Muslim is particularly popular with better midrange options in town. Rooms here
Japanese backpackers. Rooms are arranged are large and comfortable, so it’s often booked
around a central courtyard, and there’s a out with local businessmen. Centrally located
restaurant with a never-ending pot of dhal. with attached restaurant; cheaper rooms have
Rooms are a bit cell-like and the whole place fan only.
has a slightly grubby feel, but what did you Hotel Bloom Star (%2833350; fax 2833353; 8 Stewart
expect for the price? Rd; s/d Rs 500/600) The Bloom Star has clean and
Hotel Marina (%2847765; Jinnah Rd; s/d Rs 200/300) comfortable rooms but what’s drawn travel-
Opposite Hotel Deluxe (below). Rooms here lers here for years are the quiet location and
are basic, with a slightly stale air and the oc- leafy courtyard that’s perfect for your morn-
casionally dank bathroom. ing cuppa or chilling with a paperback – a
Hotel Deluxe (%2831537; Jinnah Rd; s/d Rs 250/500) real oasis in a dusty city. Staff are friendly
The wood-panelled lobby and bright painting and efficient, and there’s a decent restaurant
of Balochis give a good first impression here. to boot. Deservedly popular.
Rooms are fine and about what you would Hotel Islamabad (%2824006; Jinnah Rd; s/d Rs
expect for the price, but the doors and win- 550/650; a) Rooms here are reasonably good,
dows only open to a corridor along the road- and you’re well located in the middle of Jinnah
side – cosy for winter but potentially stuffy Rd (although the front rooms cop a lot of
in summer. street noise). There’s a good restaurant serv-
Hotel al-Naeem (%2830263; Jinnah Rd; s/d Rs 300/600) ing Pakistani standards that’s worth visiting
Rooms around a central courtyard are nicely even if you don’t stay here.
finished in local marble. Some could be larger, Hotel Shees (%2823015; Jinnah Rd; s/d Rs 600/850)
but all are kept clean and tidy. It’s spot-on for Another option opening straight onto Jinnah
the price, and always busy. There’s no restau- Rd. Rooms are average, and still a little gloomy,
rant, but the staff can run to room service. but the place seems to have improved slightly
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Q U E T TA • • E a t i n g 147
since our last visit. An acceptable choice if and Deluxe hotels. Kandahari Bazaar has
other midrange hotels are full. plenty of no-frills Afghan eateries.
BALOCHISTAN
Askari Park itself is popular with families at 24 hours.
weekends. A rickshaw from Jinnah Rd costs Xuelian (Quetta Serena hotel, Zarghoon Rd; mains
about Rs 40 (one way). Rs 130-300 plus 15% tax; hlunch & dinner; a) Pakistani
Lourdes Hotel (%829656; fax 841352; Staff College versions of Chinese food often don’t run to
Rd; s/d Rs 1800/2300; a) Faded around the edges much more than sweet-and-sour and chow
and overpriced, the rooms and service at mein, but the Serena’s more formal restaurant
Quetta’s oldest hotel are decidedly average. offers a much broader spectrum, in appropri-
Nonetheless, it’s a Quetta institution with ately swanky surroundings.
distinctive old-world charm and a lovely gar- Lehri Sajji House (%2821255) Prime among
den. Rooms are comfortable enough, if some- the cluster of sajji restaurants clustered in
times creaky, and some are lacking in natural this area, this place could hardly be more
light, so inspect a few if possible. There’s an basic, with plastic tables and chairs spilling
attached restaurant. out onto the road. But the sajji (Rs 340) is
fantastic – great hunks of lamb spit-roasted,
EATING with crackly skin and sticky fat. It’s better if
Dining out in Quetta is a meat-based experi- there’s more than one of you dining as you
ence, and aside from the usual kebabs, karai get a leg of lamb to yourself; there’s also whole
(braised meat cooked with vegetables served chicken cooked in the same delicious way. It’s
in a pan) and biryani options, there are a cou- just off Jinnah Rd.
ple of local specialities worth checking out. Gardenia Resort (%827543; Askari Park, Airport Rd;
First among these is sajji, a whole roasted leg mains Rs 60-300 plus 15% tax; hlunch & dinner; a) In
of lamb, lightly spiced and eaten with paper- a calm locale well away from the centre, this
thin traditional bread and goat’s milk yoghurt. resort’s restaurant serves Pakistani, Chinese
Slightly harder to find is landhi, whole lamb and some Continental food. You can choose
skinned and hung in the open (in shade) or from the whole spectrum – mutton karai
a cold room for 30 to 45 days during winter. (Rs 110), Mongolian beef (Rs 120) or a good
Quetta’s Afghan connections mean that qabli club sandwich with fries (Rs 85). The desserts
pilau (rice with meat and raisins) appears on are pretty good too.
plenty of menus. Café China (Staff College Rd; mains Rs 65-210;
There’s a slew of cheap Pakistani restau- hlunch & dinner) A good place for Chinese
rants on Jinnah Rd between the Azad Muslim food, where portions are generous. There are
148 Q U E T TA • • D r i n k i n g lonelyplanet.com
steaming bowls of noodle soup (Rs 50) and also buy nuts and dried fruit. The peaches,
plates piled high with everything from beef grapes, cherries, musk melons and mangoes
chop suey (Rs 170) to a broad selection of are especially delicious, sold by mobile ven-
vegetarian dishes. dors when in season, along with fat pome-
Sheraz Bar.B.Q (Fateh Muhammad Rd; mains Rs 45-220; granates from across the Afghan border.
hlunch & dinner) A busy eatery if you just need
to fill up and go. Sheraz is great for tradi- DRINKING
tional Pakistani cuisine, with a decent selec- Teashops are dotted around town if you need
tion on offer from tikka chicken (Rs 80) and a chai, along with a plentiful supply of thirst-
garlic naan (Rs 15) to huge plates of biryani quenching juice stalls. When in season, it’s a
(Rs 110). hard call as to which is better – the creamy
Azad Muslim Hotel (Jinnah Rd; mains Rs 15-45; mango smoothies or the sharp and invigorat-
hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Typical of the simple ing pomegranate juice (both around Rs 20).
restaurants along Jinnah Rd, this hotel restau- While Balochistan is literally Pakistan’s dri-
rant dishes up cheap, filling servings of dhal, est province, alcohol can be bought for private
beans and a variety of hard to classify but tasty consumption. There’s a liquor store on Jinnah
meat curries. Fuel up for less than Rs 80. Rd selling a selection of the Murree Brewery’s
finest. Although technically an alcohol permit
Quick Eats is required (the PTDC can help you out), in
In Quetta you’re never too far away from a practice a quick flash of a non-Pakistani pass-
stand selling samosas or other fried snacks. port was enough to secure a bottle when we
When it’s cold, look for stalls selling piping- visited. Always be discreet with alcohol – carry
hot murgh kai (peppery chicken soup; Rs 10 it in a bag and never consume it in public.
to Rs 15).
BALOCHISTAN
Baig Snack Bar (Jinnah Rd; mains Rs 30-70; hlunch & ENTERTAINMENT
dinner) A solid fast-food option where burgers Askari Park (Airport Rd; admission Rs 5) More a family
and sandwiches won’t set you back more than theme park, where you can get out of the city and enjoy
about Rs 40. There are big bowls of sticky ice some open space and clean air. There’s a jogging track and
cream, rose-water faluda (sweet vermicelli) children’s park along with the Gardenia Resort hotel and
and fruit juices for afters. restaurant (see p147).
Café Baldia (cnr Adalat & Iqbal Rds; mains Rs 35-80; Imdad Cinema (Jinnah Rd) This cinema sticks to trusted
hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) One of Quetta’s old- favourites – Bollywood singalongs, Pashtun gun movies
est eateries, the Baldia attracts an interesting and Hong Kong beat-’em-ups.
crowd who congregate here to chat, read the Quetta Club (%2822847; Club Rd, Cantonment) If
newspaper or just chill out. It’s an atmos- you can get someone to sign you into this members-only
pheric spot to sit back with a cup of tea or club (off limits to the public), you can use the golf course,
light bite (sandwiches from Rs 20) and simply squash club and eat at the restaurant.
engage in people-watching.
Broast (Saleem Heights; mains Rs 40-200; hlunch & SHOPPING
dinner) Away from the downtown action, the Balochistan is known for its marble and onyx.
Broast is a fast-food joint that whips up beef Most of this goes straight to Karachi’s bazaars,
burgers with cheese (Rs 35), full roast chickens and although Quetta is a good place to pick
(Rs 200), mango shakes (Rs 25) and more. it up – often carved into goblets or paper-
Dolphin (Jinnah Rd; sweets from Rs 5; h9am-11pm) weights – prices aren’t noticeably cheaper than
Quetta has plenty of bakeries but this is our elsewhere in the country.
favourite, with its mind-boggling array of Better deals can be had with textiles. The
crunchy cookies, sticky sweets and gooey bold geometric designs of Baloch carpets and
cakes. Just browsing is enough to give you woven kilims make superb souvenirs, while
toothache, but there are a few savoury sand- less bulky options include embroidered shirts,
wiches and pizzas that make good snacking. caps and cushion covers, often inlaid with tiny
mirrors. Traditional jewellery is also worth
Self-Catering looking out for. Afghan traders have a big
There’s a fruit and vegetable market by the slice of the handicrafts market.
main bus stand and a more convenient one Chiltan Government Handicrafts Centre (Jinnah Rd)
just south of Mizan Chowk, where you can A reputable (fixed-price) place to start your
lonelyplanet.com Q U E T TA • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 149
search for local handicrafts and get an idea of security situation can affect whether you are
quality and prices. allowed to travel by public transport – dur-
Baloch Handicraft & Carpet (Jinnah Rd) A wide ing research we were prevented from trav-
variety of stock, from carpets to Baloch wed- elling on the direct Quetta–Peshawar bus,
ding dresses. for instance.
Swiss Plaza (Hali Rd) Some good handicraft Minibuses leave every hour or so for
shops are on the arcade below the airline Ziarat (Rs 50, 2½ hours), less often in win-
offices. ter. There are also regular minibuses to Sibi,
Rug Market (Masjid Rd) If you’re specifically Nushki, Kalat, Khuzdar and Chaman, and
looking for carpets, head to the wholesale rug many direct buses to Loralai. There are di-
market on Masjid Rd. Apart from the wide rect buses to Gwadar, via Turbat.
variety, the prices are also pleasing – but you’ll There are several air-con private bus
still have to haggle. companies at the main bus stand, includ-
Other places worth a look include the ing Sadabahar Private Bus Company (%2452290),
streets northwest from Mizan Chowk to the which has services to Multan (Rs 675, 13
cloth markets of Kandahari Bazaar; southwest hours, daily), Karachi (Rs 380, 12 hours,
to the fruit and vegetable market; and north- six daily), Lahore (Rs 700, 20 hours,
west to Suraj Ganj Rd for Sindhi caps, shawls daily), Peshawar (Rs 810, 24 hours, daily),
and more. South of Mizan Chowk is Liaquat Rawalpindi (Rs 7800, 23 hours, two daily)
Bazaar, which is also worth a wander. and Taftan (Rs 350, 13 hours, four daily).
Kurdish Coach (no phone; Jinnah Rd) has a daily
GETTING THERE & AWAY service to Taftan (Rs 350, 13 hours). A hand-
Quetta is a substantial distance from any other ful of other bus companies also operates of-
major Pakistani city. The main highways spoke fices on the lower part of Jinnah Rd with
BALOCHISTAN
out from Quetta to Taftan, Karachi, Jacobabad services to Taftan. Note that most Taftan
and Dera Ghazi (DG) Khan. Off these roads buses travel overnight, arriving at the Iran
there are few services and travel is often re- border in the early morning. For more on
stricted without official permission (consult the Iranian border, see p387.
the PTDC office). For more information, see
Travelling Safely in Balochistan (p140). Taxi & 4WD
For taxis to Hanna Lake and Urak Valley
Air (Rs 1200 return trip, Rs 500 to Hanna Lake
Given the distances to other Pakistani cities, only) or Ziarat (Rs 2500), try the taxi stand
this may be one of those occasions when you on Adalat Rd or inquire at your hotel.
break the overland creed and fly. Competition Most midrange or better hotels can also
between the three airlines keeps prices com- organise 4WD transport if you’re head-
petitive, but flights can fill quickly. ing to the interior; alternatively, ask at the
Air Blue (%2830124; S5/S37, Swiss Plaza, Hali Rd) Has PTDC office (p145) when you’re finding out
a daily flight to Karachi. about permits.
PIA (%9203861; 17 Hali Rd) Has daily flights to
Islamabad (Rs 6250, 85 minutes) and Karachi (Rs 6250, Train
50 minutes), as well as flying four times a week to Lahore Quetta’s train station is very ordered com-
(Rs 4090, one hour) and twice weekly to Gwadar. A direct pared to others in Pakistan. Tickets are sold
Quetta–Peshawar service is planned. at the train station’s reservation and booking
Shaheen Air (%2832645; S3, Swiss Plaza, Hali Rd) Flies office, and foreigners and students are enti-
daily to Karachi and twice weekly to Lahore. tled to special concessions – see p391.
Major trains from Quetta are listed on
Bus & Minibus p150, but note that timetables and fares
Long-distance services operate from the are likely to change during the life of this
main bus stand, sometimes referred to as book. You can double-check at the station
the New Quetta Bus Stand, or Bus Adda. or direct with Pakistan Railways (%117; www
It’s about 1.5km south of the train station. .pakrail.com). The newspaper stand at the sta-
Buses (Rs 4) and autorickshaws (about tion sometimes sells copies of the book-
Rs 20) go there from Jinnah Rd and from let Time & Fare Table (Rs 25), which is
near the train station. Note that Balochistan’s updated twice yearly.
150 A R O U N D Q U E T TA • • H a n n a L a k e & U r a k Va l l e y lonelyplanet.com
Abbreviations:
A = Economy (seat) D = Air-conditioned lower (berth) G = First-class sleeper (seat)
B = Economy (berth) E = Air-conditioned parlour H = First-class sleeper (berth)
C = Air-conditioned lower (seat) F = Air-conditioned sleeper
Wolves, leopards and striped hyenas are Pilgrims come here to visit the ziarat
also present, along with smaller species like (shrine) of the famous Muslim saint Mian
porcupine. Abdul Hakim (also known as Kharwari Baba),
The park is a protected area watched over who fled here from Kandahar in Afghanistan.
by rangers who may be able to show you The shrine is 3km from the Quaid-i-Azam
around. It’s particularly attractive in the Residence.
spring when wildflowers abound. Permission
to visit must be obtained from the Divisional Activities
Forestry Office (%081-9211648; Sabzal Rd, Quetta), Ziarat and the surrounding valley offer sev-
where you can also book accommodation eral pretty and easy walks. The Chashma Walk
at the park’s resthouse (only for day use). leads 1.5km up from Ziarat to the spring that
There isn’t any public transport to or from provides water to the town. A longer walk
the park so you’ll need to hire a car. The from Ziarat town follows the road (or the
entrance is only a couple of kilometres from water channels on the hillsides) 6km south,
the main Quetta–Mastung road. The PTDC veering east to Prospect Point. It’s quicker to
office in Quetta (see p145) can provide start from the Quaid-i-Azam Residence, al-
more details. though you still have to tackle the steepest
part from here. At a height of 2700m, the
ZIARAT point offers glorious views over the whole
The old British hill station of Ziarat was valley. Further round are views of craggy
founded as a retreat from Quetta’s summer Mt Khalifat (3487m), which is still snow-clad
heat. It nestles in its eponymous valley, sur- in April.
round by ancient juniper forests at an altitude Other popular hiking destinations include
of 2600m, about 130km northeast of Quetta. the cascade at Sandeman Tangi, 4km northwest;
BALOCHISTAN
With a residency, offices and even a sanato- Chautair, 20km further east; and the waterfall
rium, it served as the administration’s sum- at Fern Tangi, 1.5km south of the main road
mer capital, and now carries a slightly worn to Quetta from a point 10km west of Ziarat.
(though attractive) ‘end of empire’ feel. There are plenty of other attractive trails to
Refreshingly cool in summer and almost explore if you plan on spending a few days
invariably snow-clad in winter, Ziarat is a in Ziarat.
relaxing destination and a handy base for
exploring the surrounding gorges and bald- Sleeping
ing hills of juniper. Don’t get your hopes up There are several good options, although
too high, though – this may be lush for stark they are heavily booked in summer. Ziarat’s
Balochistan, especially in spring, but northern hotels largely close down in the winter, but
Pakistan it isn’t. you can usually find something available. The
PTDC office (%081-825826; Azad Muslim Hotel, Jinnah
Rd; h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Sat, to 6.30pm in summer)
Information in Quetta can make reservations. Rooms
PTDC office (%0833-410356) Located at the PTDC at the CTC must be booked in advance at
Complex, this office is open throughout the tourist season the Quetta CTC office (%081-9202933; Balochistan
(April to October). Free sketch maps of the valley are Secretariat, Room 4, 1st fl, Block 4; h8.30am-2pm Mon-Thu
available. & Sat, 8.30am-noon Fri).
PTDC Complex (%0833-560356; s/d Rs 1550/1900)
Sights This 18-room complex is the pick of the
The British weren’t the only ones to appreciate bunch, offering the usual reliable but unfussy
Ziarat – so too did Mohammed Ali Jinnah, the PTDC service. There’s a restaurant, although
Quaid-i-Azam (Great Leader). Jinnah spent the breakfasts are a bit overpriced.
his last days here in 1948, suffering from CTC Tourist Rest House (s/d Rs 300/400) One
the cancer that killed him. The Quaid-i-Azam kilometre further along the Loralai road
Residence (h9am-4pm; Rs 50) is the former resi- from the PTDC Complex, this is not as
dency of the agent to the governor general, conveniently located nor as comfortable as
built in 1882. The furniture is left just as it the PTDC.
was when Jinnah stayed here before returning Shalimar (%0833-410353; s/d Rs 300/400-550) Near
to Karachi to die. the main bus stand, this is a good option for
152 A R O U N D T H E R E G I O N • • Q u e t t a t o S i b i lonelyplanet.com
the price, with clean rooms and a restaurant. The larger settlement of Mach, further
Open all year. along the road beside the railway line, is a
Shangrila (%0833-410311; s/d/tr Rs 300/400/600) typically dry and dusty collection of mud
Another decent choice for the price, similar huts. About 24km beyond Mach, after sev-
in style to the Shalimar. eral coalmines, a rough track running right
Several dreary cheap hotels huddle around off the main road leads to Pir Gheib. This
the bus station, along with various eating beautiful rockpool is fed by a cascade and is
BALOCHISTAN
options serving karai and the like. enclosed by cliffs and trees. There’s another
pool with calmer waters slightly downstream.
Near the pool is a small shrine to a saint.
Getting There & Away Foreigners need a special permit to come to
Numerous minibuses travel here daily from
both the shrine and Pir Gheib – for the latest
Quetta (Rs 50, 2½ hours), although their fre-
details ask at the PTDC office in Quetta (see
quency drops considerably out of season. A
p145). With your own vehicle, a day trip from
taxi will set you back around Rs 2500.
Quetta is just about feasible.
Five kilometres beyond the turning to Pir
Gheib is Bibi Nani, the site of a historic bridge
AROUND THE REGION washed away by heavy rains in 1986.
Just off the main road, 26km before Sibi,
Travel in Balochistan can be a tough prop- the tiny settlement of Sirajabad is set in a small
osition. Roads are often poor and facilities forest at the base of a hill. It has an attractive
lacking. On top of this, security concerns rockpool where you can swim, with both hot
mean that permits are required for almost and cold water. This is one of the most pleas-
all destinations outside the main transport ant retreats in Balochistan.
corridor from the Iran border through
Quetta to Jacobabad in Sindh (see Travelling
Safely in Balochistan, p140). That given, the
SIBI
Sibi can be very hot. ‘Oh Allah! When you
stark scenery can be dramatic, ranging from
created Sibi, why did you bother to conceive
stony moonscape deserts to rocky moun-
of hell!’ is the popular exhortation of the locals
tains and the occasional hidden oasis, mak-
who endure the region’s scalding summers,
ing travelling here never anything less than
when the mercury pushes towards 50°C.
an adventure.
Sibi owes its importance to its strategic po-
sition at the mouths of the Bolan and Harnai
QUETTA TO SIBI Passes on the old trade routes to Afghanistan,
The village of Kolpur, 24km south of Quetta, but it’s cut off from the rest of Balochistan by
lies at the entrance to the Bolan Pass. The formidable mountain ranges.
Bolan River rises near here, and Kolpur has Little is known of its early history, although
many fruit orchards and date palms. it has been a settlement of some importance
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A R O U N D T H E R E G I O N • • M e h r g a r h 153
and the main market town of the region for Rd. Hotels will almost certainly insist that
many centuries. There are references from the you register with the police before being al-
time of Alexander the Great to a place that lowed to check in.
may have been Sibi. Legend records that it was
the capital of Sewistan, one of the seven Hindu Getting There & Away
kingdoms that predate Islam. Mohammed All trains to/from Quetta stop at Sibi (five
bin Qasim, the Muslim Arab invader of the hours). There are also buses and mini-
subcontinent in the 8th century, captured it, buses to/from Quetta (three hours), Ziarat,
as did Mahmud of Ghazni in the 11th cen- Loralai, Khuzdar and Fort Munro, leaving
tury, after which it was coveted, besieged or from the bus station in the southern part
occupied by various rival dynasties. In 1487 of town.
it briefly became capital of a unified Baloch
kingdom under Mir Chakar. MEHRGARH
In 1878, after an earlier assault on the At the foot of the Bolan Pass, just south of
town in 1841, the British captured Sibi the Quetta–Sibi highway, Mehrgarh is the
and renamed it Sandemanabad, for Robert earliest archaeological site known on the
Sandeman. The most imposing of the extant subcontinent. It was first unearthed in the
buildings from the British era is the 1903 1970s by French archaeologists, a discovery
Queen Victoria Memorial Hall, now named that has significantly boosted knowledge of
Jirga Hall. It is so named because it was the the Neolithic precursors to the Indus Valley
assembly chamber for the British and the civilisation. However, there’s not much to see
leading tribal notables during the annual so it’s really only for those with a specialist
jirga (council of tribal elders) held during interest. It’s also rather difficult to reach.
the Sibi Mela. It now houses the small ar- Mehrgarh is the site of the first known farm-
BALOCHISTAN
chaeological and historical Sibi Museum (Masjid ing society in Pakistan, and predates not only
Rd; hclosed Wed). the Indus Valley civilisation but also the civi-
The 15th-century ruins of Mir Chakar’s Fort lisations of ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia.
lie on the outskirts of Sibi. There’s also an It’s believed to have been inhabited from the
old caravanserai (traditional accommodation first half of the 7th millennium BC (possibly
for camel caravans), the Sohbat Serai, con- even earlier) until about 2000 BC. Not only
structed by tribal chief Sadar Sohbat Khan. did its inhabitants raise domesticated cattle
and goats, cultivate cereal crops and make
Sleeping bone, flint and (much later) simple copper
There’s a paucity of accommodation in Sibi. tools, they were also the first known den-
Try the basic Saqi Hotel (Jinnah Rd), Al-Karam tists, with several skeletons with drilled teeth
Hotel (Jinnah Rd) or other cheapies along Jinnah discovered at the site. All such advances are
unknown anywhere else in the same period the Chaman Passenger train departs Quetta
outside west Asia. daily each morning.
Later it appears that there was an estab-
lished professional class of artisans, and that QUETTA TO KARACHI
ceramics were manufactured on a large scale Kalat
for export. Handicrafts include human and Seat of the once mighty Khans of Kalat who
animal figurines, beads of terracotta and hem- dominated Balochistan from the 15th cen-
atite, storage jars, copper pins, seals and ivory tury until the arrival of the British, Kalat is
work – many decorated in colour with styl- 143km south of Quetta. Despite being in
ised motifs. Through these and other finds, an important date-producing area, it’s one
there is evidence of trading links with Central of the coolest places in Balochistan, with
Asia, Afghanistan and Persia. The best items temperatures frequently below freezing
are on display at the National Museum of in winter.
Pakistan in Karachi (p164), including some The town was almost destroyed in the
prodigiously hipped and breasted female fig- 1935 earthquake that also rocked Quetta,
ures, as well as a few pieces at the museum and the imposing hilltop miri (citadel) of
in Sibi (p153). the Khans of Kalat, which once dominated
The site is spread over a large area but the town, is now in ruins. The rubble of an
the main excavation is concentrated on one ancient Hindu temple of Kali lies beneath
low constructed mound, where around 20 the fortress.
rooms have so far been discovered and about The modern town is of little interest, al-
100 skeletons have been dug up from the though the bazaar is worth a stroll through.
large necropolis. There are several equally unappealing sleeping
Your own transport is essential for reach- options in the bazaar.
BALOCHISTAN
the pilgrimage centre of Hinglaj, site of a mela The Makran has always been a wild and
(fair) in March/April. untamed place. Alexander the Great came
The park is beautiful but very remote, seriously unstuck here on his return from
and can only be reached by 4WD via the India, when his army became lost in the
town of Aghor. You’ll need to be totally desert with the loss of thousands of men
self-sufficient, as there are no tourist facili- to hunger and dehydration. The Arabs and
ties. Check with the PTDC in Quetta (p145) Persians made brief coastal contacts with the
before travelling. Makran soon after converting to Islam, but
the area was otherwise ignored by outsid-
QUETTA TO DERA GHAZI KHAN ers. In the mid-18th century it fell under the
The road from Quetta to DG Khan in Punjab control of the Khans of Kalat, who admin-
is little used and is a direct and adventurous istered it through a representative known
route. You’re likely to attract the attention as the nazim. The British exerted very little
of the police should you show up here – we direct control over it.
were advised against taking this route when Communications with the interior have
we researched this book. From Quetta buses always been tenuous. The massive distances
to Ziarat normally go via the crossroad towns and poor road conditions – and recent po-
of Kuchlagh, Kanai and Kach. In spring there litical sensitivities – make it difficult to get
are many nomad families camped on the side here (see Information, below).
of the road. About 63km east of Ziarat is the The coast is great for fishing, especially
transit town of Sanjawi, from where pick- for shellfish. Traditionally, Makranis have
ups depart for Loralai. For more information migrated for work, especially to Oman and
about DG Khan, see p133. the rest of Arabia, and traded by sea with
the ports of the Persian Gulf, Arabian Sea
BALOCHISTAN
Loralai and Indian Ocean. The development of the
This wild Pashtun bazaar town is a logical place new port at Gwadar is currently driving the
to break a journey. There’s not much to see, local economy.
but the bazaar is bursting with bushy beards Much of the region is mountainous. There
and huge turbans and should be a fascinating are three main ranges: the Makran Coast
place for a ramble, although there are plenty Range (up to about 1500m), Central Makran
of guns on display and several travellers have Range (2000m to 3000m) and Siahan Range
reported feeling less than welcome here. (1000m to 2000m). The cultivated areas of
Registering with the police is essential the Makran lie sheltered between these barren
for getting a room in Loralai. The CTC Tourist ranges. The coast is consistently hot; the Kech
Resthouse (r Rs 300) is the most comfortable op- Valley around Turbat is dry and temperate in
tion, although it’s inconveniently located in winter but oppressively hot in summer; and
the cantonment, north of town; you must the Panjgur region is bitterly cold in winter
make advance reservations at the CTC office and moderately hot in summer.
(%081-9202933; Balochistan Secretariat, Room 4, 1st fl, There are no permanent rivers of any con-
Block 4; h8.30am-2pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8.30am-noon Fri) sequence, so agriculture relies on springs
in Quetta. and underground watercourses. Dates, co-
Cheaper and grubbier options at less than conuts and bananas are important cash
Rs 100 a head include Al Habib Hotel and crops, along with grains and pulses for
Pakeeza Hotel. local consumption.
Several daily buses and minibuses run
to Quetta (five hours) and DG Khan (nine Information
hours). The authorities do their best to dissuade
foreigners from visiting the Makran. The
THE MAKRAN Baloch insurgency continues, with regular
The region bordering the Arabian Sea is bomb and rocket attacks against the govern-
known as the Makran, a harsh desert land- ment, gas pipelines and railway. The PTDC
scape bound by the coast on one side and low office in Quetta (see p145) is best placed
mountains on the other. Its name is thought to provide you with current details about
to be a corruption of the Persian mah khoran the security situation. If safe, travellers re-
(fish eaters), for its original inhabitants. quire a No Objection Certificate for travel
© Lonely Planet Publications
156 A R O U N D T H E R E G I O N • • T h e M a k r a n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
(see Travelling Safely in Balochistan, p140) – harvested, and the curiously eroded moun-
these weren’t being issued for the Makran tainsides along the road to Turbat.
during our research. Other possible destinations near Gwadar
BALOCHISTAN
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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157
Sindh
Sindh is named for the great Indus River that carves its way through the plains of the
province, bringing it to life. The Indus has bought favour and failure to Sindh throughout
its history, nurturing the Indian subcontinent’s first great civilisation at Moenjodaro and
Harappa six millennia ago, while shifting its course to push later dynasties out of the spot-
light and leave the region languishing without influence until it was claimed for the British
empire in the 19th century.
For the traveller to Sindh, the British legacy is everywhere to see. The damming of the
Indus at Sukkur in the 1930s transformed the dry plains into rich agricultural land, turning
the region into the country’s breadbasket. Its bakers – the big landowning farmers – still
hold great sway in national politics today. An equally big transformation was wrought away
from the river, turning a sleepy fishing town into the booming port of Karachi. In the 21st
century, the city is Pakistan’s economic powerhouse and a true mega-city, sucking in migrants
from across the country, all hoping to strike it rich. Those that have flaunt their wealth in
trendy restaurants and expensive property near the beach.
The rest of Sindh’s attractions are more modest, from the archaeological site of Moen-
jodaro to the Mughal mosques of Thatta. But wherever you go you’re unlikely to run into
many other travellers. Persistent political insecurity in Sindh means that taking trusted safety
advice before travel is essential before setting out, as is keeping an ear to the ground when
you get there.
HIGHLIGHTS
Be seen with the great, the good and the
SINDH
SINDH 0
0
100 km
60 miles
River
Kot Diji
Moenjodaro
R a n
s
du
In
y
s Hw
DADU
Jaisalmer
Indu
t h a r
Dadu
Khudabad
Moro INDIA
K i r
KHAIRPUR
NAWABSHAH
Na
Sehwan Sharif
tio
na
Nawabshah
Manchhar
l
Hw
Lake
y
Kotri Umarkot
Gaddani Gaddani Hyderabad
Beach
rH wy Tando
upe
River
S Muhammad
See Greater Karachi Map (p160) Khan
Keenjhar
Lake Great Thar
KARACHI
Haleji Makli Tando Bago Naukot Desert
Lake Hill
s
du
Mithi
Cape
In
Banbhore
Monze Thatta BADIN Badin
Gharo Gujjo
Sujawal
Nagar
Parkar
ARABIAN Jati
SEA THATTA
Mo
ut
hs
of
Th
e In GUJARAT
d us
SINDH
of the Mughal throne in Delhi allowed them the undisputed heart of the nation’s economy.
to grab the rest of Sindh. A true world mega-city, greater Karachi is
Sindh became a relative backwater, a state spread over an ever-expanding 3500 sq km,
that only changed when the British seized it in perpetually sucking in workers from across
1843 on the flimsiest of pretexts, as a military re- the country. If you want to make it any-
storative after their thrashing in the first Anglo- where, the saying goes, you have to head for
Afghan war – ‘like a bully who has been kicked Karachi.
in the street and goes home to beat his wife in As a result, Karachi is one of the most di-
revenge,’ wrote a contemporary critic. The small verse and cosmopolitan cities in Pakistan,
port of Karachi came into its own, expanding with ethnic Sindhis matched by large num-
rapidly and eventually becoming Pakistan’s bers of Punjabis, Pashtuns and other na-
capital upon Independence in 1947. tionalities. After Partition, Karachi received
Sindh’s big landowning families (including significant numbers of Mohajirs, who have
that of the late Benazir Bhutto) and Mohajirs since become the key players in Karachi poli-
(Urdu-speaking refugees from newly formed tics under the MQM party that dominates the
India) continue to play a strong role in Pakistani city. Karachi also has significant Christian
politics, in power and opposition, although the and Hindu communities, and is a centre
province frequently hits the headlines these days for Zoroastrianism.
for its increasing susceptibility to natural disas- This diverse mix doesn’t always rub along
ters, such as the calamitous floods of 2007.
SINDH
HISTORY ORIENTATION
Karachi’s importance as a natural harbour Karachi sprawls like no other city in Pakistan,
at the mouth of the Indus was not lost on which can sometimes make it hard for first-
the British, but being isolated by vast areas time visitors to grasp its layout.
of desert clearly stunted the imaginations of The centre, with its many hotels, busy shop-
earlier rulers. It was a neglected possession ping district and British-era buildings, is known
of the Khan of Kalat until 1789, when it was as Saddar (or Saddar Bazaar). On the skyline,
ceded to the Talpurs of Balochistan. high-rise hotels Sheraton and Avari Towers
The Talpurs erected a mud fort, yet Karachi act as landmarks. The Three Swords and Two
remained a small fishing village until 1839, Swords Roundabouts help visitors get their
when the British started showing an interest in bearings heading towards the southern seaside
Sindh. Sir Charles (later Lord) Napier sent HMS district of Clifton. This is one of Karachi’s most
Wellesley to Karachi. On its approach the Talpur exclusive areas and is next to the equally well-
rulers ordered a display of cannon fire for the to-do DHA (Defence Housing Authority).
visitors. This possibly misinterpreted welcome The airport is about 10km from central
brought about the capture of the town with- Karachi heading east from Saddar along
out bloodshed. Four years later, with Karachi Shahrah-e-Faisal Rd. The Cantonment
as their naval base, the British had annexed Railway Station is south of Dr Daud Pota
all of Sindh and shifted the capital here from Rd in Railway Colony district, while the
Hyderabad, with Napier as the first governor. City Railway Station is on the south side of
By 1847 Karachi’s population was 50,000 Chundrigar (formerly McLeod) Rd.
and construction took on a rapid pace. Streets
were laid, highways and railways constructed, Maps
port facilities improved and Gothic and Major bookshops sell maps of Sindh; those
Victorian buildings erected. Prominent exam- published by Lion Art Press are particularly
ples include Frere Hall, the Sindh High Court, good. The PTDC office (p164) has a useful
the Sindh Assembly Building, St Andrew’s free fold-out map of the city.
Church, St Patrick’s Cathedral and Empress
Market (see the boxed text, p166, for these INFORMATION
sights). From the mid-19th century, Karachi Bookshops
overshadowed Hyderabad as the commer- Karachi has a good selection of bookshops,
cial, educational and administrative centre offering everything from Sindh history to
of Sindh. Karachi was Pakistan’s capital from Harry Potter.
1947 until the new city of Islamabad was des- Ferozson’s (Map pp162-3; Clifton Rd; %5830467)
ignated capital in 1959. Liberty Books (Map pp162-3; %5374153; Block 5,
GREATER KARACHI 0
0
10 km
6 miles
SINDH
To Gaddani Hub
Beach (25km) Halkani
BALOCHISTAN
New To Hyderabad
Rangeji Manghopir (180km)
Gondbas Karachi
Metan Super H
Mochko wy
Hu
Mai Garhi
d
pir R
b
Gabopat
Rd Shah
Rd Karachi
Riv
r Chhatara Orangi
ive
gho
an
er R
bR st University
er
Township
ki
Man
Sh
Hu North Pa
d
Manora Clifton C
gi reek
izr eek
Ko
lonelyplanet.com K A R A C H I • • I n f o r m a t i o n 161
Com 5/1 Boat Basin) Near Bar.B.Q. Tonight. Also branches Internet Access
at Park Towers, and Sheraton and Marriott Hotels. Internet outlets open and close with reckless
Thomas & Thomas (Map p165; %5682220; Liaquat Rd, abandon, so ask your hotel which is the closest.
Saddar) Prices are around Rs 40 an hour, but don’t expect
broadband. Two convenient joints in Saddar:
Cultural Centres Cyberwaves (Map p165; Dr Daud Pota Rd) Next to Gulf
Karachi hosts plenty of cultural events, Hotel.
from art exhibitions to concerts and plays. Internet Centre (Map p165; Dr Daud Pota Rd) Next to
Local newspapers have listings of forthcom- Chandni Hotel.
ing attractions. Particularly active cultural
Medical Services
SINDH
centres include:
Alliance Française (Map pp162-3; %5862864; Block Aga Khan University Hospital (Map pp162-3;
8, Plot St-1, Kehkashan, Clifton) %4930056; Stadium Rd) One of the best hospitals in
Arts Council of Pakistan (Map p165; %2635108; Pakistan.
MR Kayani Rd) Probably the best place to see musical and Jinnah Hospital (Map pp162-3; %9201300; off
theatrical performances. Sharah-e-Faisal Rd)
British Council (Map pp162-3; %111424424; c/o Brit-
ish Deputy High Commission, Shahrah-e-Iran Rd, Clifton) Money
There are plenty of banks and private money-
Emergency changers in Saddar and along Chundrigar Rd;
Edhi Trust Ambulance (%115) ATMs are equally common. The airport banks
Police (%15) are open 24 hours. It’s easier to change cash
though – travellers cheques will probably find
Foreigners’ Registration you directed to the American Express office
Foreigners’ Registration Office (FRO; Map pp162-3; at the Shaheen Complex:
%9212611; Central Police Station, Chundrigar Rd) Only American Express (Map p165; %2630260; Shaheen
nationals of 16 countries are required to register; see Visas, Complex, Dr Ziauddin Ahmad Rd; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm
p378. Mon-Thu, 9am-12.30pm & 3-5pm Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Also
162 K A R A C H I lonelyplanet.com
KARACHI
To Manghopir
(25km)
Ma
e
Av
ngh
te r Rd
ta
opi
Es
Dhobi Ghat ta
(Great Laundry) sh
Ni
r R
.
d
er
ri Riv
Lya
d
nR
Kha Zoo
Rd
Jam
am
Ad
Chak
r Wara
ila S
Rd
Ma r z a
u Mi a
n
To Hawkes ripu Kh
t
iwara
Bay (19km) rR a
bha
d
r
Du
Ta
At
m
Rd
ad
nn
m
Ku
m
e
ar
ry
am
Liyari
am
N ew
Mauripur
Rd
oh
Railway
Pr
M
Station ir
it
am
q
See Central Karachi Map (p165)
Fa
da
s
Rd
A bd
Lea Rd
h
ulla
Market na
23 Jin
Rd
h
t
ir S A
Har
t ha M
ar
sh Jo Bazaar
Wazir Mansion Ni Rd
oon
uat
Na
Railway Station
Liaq
p ie
Rd
r R
Boulton
id Rd
d
Dr
Sarafa Market 11
Zia hah
ud rS
Bazaard din wa
p nR 5 Sar d
am ha 15 Ah rR
Jodia ma da
Sw R d Railway dR ad
K
ve Bazaar at 8 d -i-S
a
u n
ro q Stadium a
Ag
Memon Lia
Mosque d Aiw
g
ar f R d u n dr ig ar R
an
West W h Mereweather C h
M
Tower 4
KPT Railway City
Fishing Station Railway
Harbour Station
MTK
han R
d d
a nR
17 M T Kh
West
Wharf
Keamari
Harbour
Rd
East
le
Ch
r
pie
irm
Na
a
Cr
ee
Shipyard k
Bath
Island
nel
ChBaba
an
Khayaban
Keamari 20
i
aad
Boat
e-S
Basin
an-
Keamari
yab
Railway Rd
Station Ghalib Ghalib
Kha
Rd Clifton 3
Keamari 19
Boat Basin
-
Fird 22
ah
o us Rd
r
ah
ena de
16
To Evolution (2.5km);
Ferry to Purple Haze (2.5km);
Manora
Island Clifton Café Zouk (5km)
ARABIAN SEA Beach
lonelyplanet.com K A R A C H I 163
0 2 km
0 1.0 miles
Rd
1
ty
rsi
d
To Super Hwy (12km); Stadium R
ive
Hyderabad (170km)
Un
Rd
ngir
Bu
s in
Jeha
es
s Re
12
co
Rd
rde
n ah
rR
Jin
A
d
M
d
Garden gR
an
rJ
Rd
r Ya
du
ir
ha 14
shm
S ha Jinnah International
hid Airport (2.5km)
-i-M
i
lla
Rd
tR
iq
d
Q
Tar
ua
idi
n
Rd
d
nR
-Ira
h-e
h ra
S ha
Saddar
(Saddar
Bazaar)
Dr
Da ja Gh
9
ud
Ra
Abb
d
al R
Pot azanfa
e- F a i s
asi
rah-
aR
Sha
h
Sha
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hid
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Rd
li R
7
d aJ
inn
Cantonment
ah
Railway
Station
Rd
Railway 10
Colony
Khayaban
Race
Course
-i-Iqbal
SINDH
British Council..................................(see 3)
Rd
Clifton
Za
e-
has a Western Union counter for international money (also called the Quaid-i-Azam, or ‘Great
transfers. There’s also a branch of HSBC and a 24-hour ATM Leader’), who died here in 1948. There are
in the same complex. several sights linked to him, plus a variety of
museums and British-era buildings. You can
Post top things off – and get a blast of fresh air –
Main post office (GPO; Map pp162-3; Chundrigar Rd) with a trip to the beach.
Near the City Railway Station.
Saddar post office (Map p165; cnr Sarmand & Abdullah National Museum of Pakistan
Haroon Rds, Saddar) Opposite St Andrew’s Church. Pakistan’s history, from early man to
Independence, is well represented at this mu-
Telephone seum (Map p165; Dr Ziauddin Ahmad Rd; admission Rs 200;
If you need to make a call, you’re never h10am-1pm & 2-5pm Thu & Sat-Tue, 9am-noon Fri).
likely to be more than a minute away from The main galleries are upstairs. After a
a public call office (PCO) booth. To find quick survey of Stone Age axes from Sukkur
local numbers, call %17. The Karachi City and Rohri, the museum gets into its stride
Guide (Rs 250), sold at most bookshops, is with displays of some of the finest Indus
an excellent guide-cum-phone directory of Valley civilisation artefacts. The 6000-year-
business, updated twice annually. old pottery from Mehrgarh is quite lovely
and surprisingly delicate, and is followed
up by a room dedicated to Moenjodaro and
Tourist Information Harappa. The iconic ‘priest-king’ bust is just
Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation of- one of many highlights, alongside a large
fice (PTDC; Map p165; %9206381; Shafi Chambers, Club array of fertility goddess cult figures, jewel-
Rd; h8am-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8am-noon & 1-6pm Fri) lery and seals covered with the mysterious
Staff here are friendly and give good travel information Moenjodaran script.
about Karachi and surrounds, as well as free maps. The The next room shifts the focus forward
PTDC can also advise on travel in greater Sindh (including to Buddhist Pakistan, with displays of
security information), help arrange guides, vehicle hire Gandharan art and an array of carved schist
and trips to Moenjodaro. statues, mainly from Taxila and Takht-i-Bahi.
Sindh Tourism Development Corporation office The Islamic room next door has a small sec-
(STDC; Map pp162-3; %7788530; 1st fl, 114-115 Block tion on the early Arab settlements of Debal
C, Sea Breeze Plaza, Shahrah-e-Faisal Rd; h9am-1pm & and Mansura, but is poorly labelled and only
2-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri) The place to visit to the 13th-century pottery from Persia really
book accommodation at Haleji Lake (p175), Sehwan Sharif stands out.
(p176), Great Thar Desert (p176) and Larkana (see p179). The ‘Freedom Movement’ gallery has a col-
Can also help arrange guided tours in Sindh. lection of photos, paintings and newspaper
articles relating to the Independence move-
Travel Agencies
SINDH
CENTRAL KARACHI 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
41
To Quaid-i-Azam
Mausoleum (1km)
Cinemas
Dr
Da
Bazaar
Abd
Empress
Z ai
ud
36
Market
ulla
b un
Pot
8
Rd
aR
-N i
h 48
na
Har
Jin
sa
d
16
Rd Dar-i-Mehtar
o
A 15
St
Pr
on
M di nd
ee
St ma (Zoroastrian Place
Sar Bohri of Worship)
Rd
Bazaar
Mi
5
42 26 28 Saddar
Raj
rK
6 (Saddar Bazaar)
ar
25
aG
30 Rd
am
23 17 21
Iraq
h az
Rd 22
Sohtrak
uat
Ali
Ka d
Liaq
anf
rab
20
R
Tal
rAa
pu
rR
liRd
33 38
d
27
14 37
d
hid R 44
r Sha
Sindh Secretariat Sarwa
(Tughlaq House) 40 43
Zainab 32
d
Market
R
13 51
al
ai s
d 46
Strachen R
F
52
-e-
35
r ah
12 2 d 18
iR 11
ah
n Rd Sh
Dr ya d ar
Zia Ka Sad 50
u dd R
a n-i- 7
39
in M Aiw 24
Ah 1 9
d ma
Chundrigar R d
Rd Bagh-i- 3 45
Quaid- Metropole
To City Railway Hotel
Station (1km) i-Azam 4 49 19
Fat
Dr
ima
Da
ud
Jinn
Pot
To Cantonment
ah
Abdu
INFORMATION
Railway Station
aR
Rd
ATM..............................................(see 24)
h Har
Cyberwaves...................................(see 21) 10
Internet Centre...............................(see 20)
d
29 Railway
Liberty Books (Branch)...................(see
d 29) Colony
nR
Liberty Books (Branch)...................(see 34)
Kha
in Development
Pakistan Tourism dd Corporation
a m i zu
lv i
MouOfficeT (PTDC)................................4 C3 Hotel Karachi....................................23 B2
Saddar Post Office..............................5 B2 Hotel Mehran...................................24 C3
Thomas & Thomas.............................6 B2 Hotel Ocean.....................................25 B2
SINDH
on a square pyramidal platform in the middle from the politicians and lost every war it’s
of a spacious park. contested? The answer is just to focus on
the hardware. This impressive outdoor mu-
Flag Staff House & Wazir Mansion seum (off Map pp162-3; PAF Base Faisal; admission Rs 50;
Also known as Quaid-i-Azam House, this h8am-10pm) does just that. Over 30 aircraft
imposing British Raj mansion (Map p165; Fatima are on show, including an Indian Gnat that
Jinnah Rd) was once owned by Mohammed Ali was captured by Pakistani forces in 1965.
Jinnah. It was built over 100 years ago and has Guided tours are free, and it’s blissfully un-
extensive grounds. His sister, Fatima Jinnah, crowded on weekdays, making it a fine escape
lived in the house from 1948, and it’s now from the rat race.
home to the Jinnah House Museum (Quaid-i-Azam
House Museum; Map p165; h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Thu & Pakistan Maritime Museum
Sat-Tue, 9am-noon Fri). It’s beautifully maintained; Close to the PAF Museum, and just as well
you can see Jinnah and Fatima’s private apart- maintained, is the Pakistan Maritime Museum (off
ments, with period furniture and accessories – Map pp162-3; Habib Ibrahim Rehmatullah Rd; admission Rs 50;
well worth a visit. h9am-10pm). Galleries branch beyond the navy
A second Jinnah Museum is Wazir Mansion into general maritime history and sea life,
(Map pp162-3; Newnham Rd), where Jinnah was born and there are some good outdoor exhibits –
and brought up. The house contains a few we particularly liked the midget submarine
relics related to the revered leader. Advance and mine sweeper.
warning is needed to visit, and should be
arranged through the PTDC office (p164). Defence Housing Authority Mosque
(Masjid-i-Tuba)
Pakistan Air Force (PAF) Museum Surely Pakistan’s most eccentric mosque, this
Pakistan’s plentiful military museums always truly odd structure was built in the late 1960s.
pose a problem – how to celebrate an in- The low-slung mosque is contained under
stitution that has repeatedly seized power one vast dome with no supporting columns
Spiritual needs were also served, and provide some of Karachi’s finest remaining examples of
British Raj architecture. The Anglican Holy Trinity Cathedral (Map p165; Zaibun-Nisa St) has some
fascinating plaques inside erected to the memory of British soldiers who died in various cam-
paigns. The Anglican St Andrew’s Church (Map p165; cnr Sarmand & Abdullah Haroon Rds), and the
Roman Catholic St Patrick’s Cathedral (Map p165; off Iraq Rd) are also of note. All have services
at 9am every Sunday.
Many of the city’s most architecturally interesting British Raj buildings are now used as gov-
ernment offices and aren’t so easily accessible for sightseeing. This includes the palatial Karachi
Metropolitan Development Corporation Building (Map pp162-3; Napier Rd), which was built in 1935
to mark George V’s Silver Jubilee. It incorporates pointed Oriental cupolas at its four corners and
has a lofty clock tower that’s also domed in the same style. Other civic worthies are Frere Hall
(Map p165; Bagh-e Jinnah), the red sandstone Sindh High Court (Map p165; Court Rd) and the Sindh
Assembly Building (Map p165; Court Rd).
Don’t just look for the grand buildings, however. Saddar is packed with British-era office blocks
and shops with impressive frontages. Many are hidden behind signs and modern accretions, and
others yet are crumbling for lack of attention, but all pay tribute to Karachi’s role as one of the
British empire’s most important port cities.
lonelyplanet.com K A R A C H I • • A c t i v i t i e s 167
or vaults. With a diameter of 72m, the tent- The main reason to come to Manora Island
like dome claims to be the world’s largest. is to enjoy the sea breezes on the ferry trip
Constructed of white marble, it has thousands out here. Boats in the harbour will also run
of mirror tiles in its thermally proofed inte- longer trips for the right fee, but note that
rior, giving the impression of twinkling stars. photography is forbidden in the harbour
Visitors are welcome, although it’s recom- area. A taxi from Saddar to the harbour costs
mended to avoid prayer times and Fridays. around Rs 120.
Also known as the Defence Society Mosque,
it’s in DHA, about 1km southeast of the Other Beaches
Cantonment Railway Station. Beaches stretch almost continuously for hun-
dreds of kilometres from Karachi into the
Clifton Beach Makran in Balochistan, but much of the coast
This is Karachi’s busiest beach (Map pp162–3), is off limits to foreigners. Swimming away
although here you’ll want to take a stroll from recognised areas is unsafe due to strong
rather than a swim. The beach itself is nothing undercurrents and heavy pollution. Some
special, made of mud-grey sand, but it’s fun beaches also contain stinging jellyfish, espe-
for people-spotting. Clifton is one of Karachi’s cially during the monsoon, July to September.
posher neighbourhoods, but the beach attracts It’s also best to avoid walking on any beach
a complete cross section of society, so gives a alone after dark.
good picture of Karachi at play. It’s deserted Although not as busy as Clifton Beach,
before late afternoon, and at its most festive Sandspit (Map p160) is popular with fami-
on Sunday. Camel and horse rides on the lies on Sunday and on holidays. Sandspit is a
sands (Rs 40 and 50 respectively) are popu- natural breakwater that prevents the harbour
lar, while stands sell cold drinks, chai (tea) from silting up – a serious problem along
and grilled corn. A park and promenade was most of the coastline – and played a large
on the verge of completion when we visited, role in Karachi’s emergence as the main port
where you can stroll for Rs 10 entry. on this part of the Arabian Sea. A taxi from
On a hill above the beach is the Ziarat of central Karachi costs around Rs 250, with
Abdullah Shah Gazi, a green-domed shrine dedi- buses from Lea Market (Map pp162–3) cost-
cated to a 9th-century Sufi. Qawwali (Islamic ing Rs 20.
devotional singing) often takes place here on The scenery ever-improves further along
Thursday night. Beneath the shrine is a fresh- the coast. About 25km from central Karachi
water spring, which pilgrims have credited is Hawkes Bay (Map p160), and the beautiful
with mystical healing qualities. Also near the French Beach (Map p160) is a further 14km on.
shrine is the Mohatta Palace, another residence The latter is relatively private, and is pretty
of Jinnah’s sister Fatima. It’s a fine British Raj much the reserve of Karachi’s upper classes
building, under restoration to be turned into and expatriates. The last convenient beach is
SINDH
Budget
TURTLE SPOTTING Many of the cheapest hotels are dotted around
In the evening between September and Dr Daud Pota Rd in the Saddar area, south
November, you can spot giant Olive Ridley of Empress Market. Although this locale can
and green turtles along parts of the Karachi be noisy, it’s close to cheap eateries and has
shoreline. The best way see them is to go easy access to public transport. Most places
with a local naturalist or hire a boat from have seen better days, with worn bed linen,
Keamari with a knowledgeable captain for squat toilets, and soap or paper generally only
the specific purpose of watching them. provided on request.
Hawkes Bay and Sandspit are the prime Budget hotels here are noticeably male-
places to spot turtles. dominated and solo women may feel un-
A handy local contact is the green- comfortable staying at them. Ideally, women
turtle project officer at the Sindh Wildlife should try to check out a few places first to
Management Board (Map p165; %9204951; see which is most congenial, although many
Stachen Rd), who is responsible for their pro- solo female travellers opt for midrange ac-
tection. The PTDC office (p164) can also ad- commodation in Karachi.
vise on hiring boats and arrange tours with YMCA (Map p165; %/fax 5681238; Strachen Rd; s/d
enough notice. Rs 150/200) The YMCA only accepts men and
married couples (no single women), and meals
are not available. There’s a Rs 100 temporary
Swimming membership fee (valid for one month). Low
Sea swimming on Clifton Beach is advised on character, comfort and service, but very
against because of pollution and strong cur- cheap. Advance bookings are recommended
rents. Instead, cool off in the pools of the top- as it’s often full.
end hotels, which also have heath clubs (rates YWCA (Map p165; %/fax 7732738; MA Jinnah Rd; r per
below are for nonguests). person Rs 200) This women-only lodging is lo-
Avari Towers (Map p165; %5660100; Fatima Jinnah cated in a girls’ school compound. The rooms
Rd; per day Rs 550) are nothing flash, but the YWCA is probably
KDA Officers Club (Map pp162-3; Kashmir Rd; per day the safest and most welcoming budget choice
Rs 100) The Olympic-sized public pool at the Officers Club for single women. There’s a small kitchen for
is considerably cheaper than swimming at hotels, but is self-caterers. The gates are locked at 10pm.
effectively men-only. Advance reservations are recommended.
Marriott Hotel (Map p165; %5682011; 9 Abdullah Hotel de Paris (Map p165; %5677432; Dr Daud Pota Rd;
Haroon Rd; per day Rs 250) s/d Rs 200/275) More of a rock-bottom option –
Pearl Continental (Map p165; %5685021; Club Rd; per day you’re a long way from the city of romance
Rs 500) It costs Rs 660 to use both the pool and health club. with this selection of basic but occasionally
airy rooms. A Rs 50 premium will get you a
SINDH
Hotel Karachi (Map p165; %5685326; 236 Sohrab than at comparably priced hotels elsewhere
Katrak Rd; s/d Rs 300/400) The dark-wood lobby gives in the city.
a good first impression here, and rooms are Sarawan Hotel (Map p165; %5216001; www.hotel
kept clean and tidy. But the lack of windows sarawan.com; Raja Ghazanfar Ali Rd; s/d Rs 2800/4500; a)
makes it a bad choice for claustrophobes – The Sarawan has a good central location in
only air bricks let in any ventilation or light Saddar while managing to avoid the worst of
(and noise). its bustle. Rooms are generously sized, and the
Hotel United (Map p165; %5217125; Dr Daud Pota whole is solidly reliable if lacking glamour. A
Rd; s/d/tr Rs 500/600/750; a) Rooms here are fairly decent choice, all in all.
clean and verging on the comfortable. The Hotel Sky Towers (Map p165; %5675211; hotelsky
entrance is down a side alley rather than on [email protected]; Raja Ghazanfar Ali Rd; s/d Rs 3000/4326;
the main street, and the hotel sits above a bak- a) An acceptable midrange hotel, although
ery, making the whole place smell of dough a bit uninspiring and knocked around the
and sweets. edges. Rooms range in quality so see a few
Hotel Reliance (Map p165; %5211546; Dr Daud Pota before checking in. Decent enough to rest in
Rd; s/d from Rs 600/800; a) This hotel is trying to but unlikely to raise any passions.
reach into the midrange bracket and is better o Beach Luxury Hotel (Map pp162-3;
than initial impressions would imply. Good % 5611031; [email protected]; off Moulvi
value for the price, the few rooms with air-con Talamuddin Khan Rd; s/d Rs 3920/5200; as) If you
attract a Rs 600 premium. want to get slightly away from things, this
hotel in a quiet area is worth it for its large
Midrange grounds and proximity to the sea. All rooms
Karachi’s midrange hotels come in a broad look out past palm trees over the water and
spectrum of prices, with some good choices have recently seen a refit that has improved
and discounts often available. A combined standards considerably. Service is excellent,
government/service tax of 23.6% is levied on and there’s a charming ‘floating restaurant’
all bills, not included in the rates listed here, (see p171) for night-time dining.
although breakfast is usually thrown in. All Hotel Mehran (Map p165; %5660851; www.hotel
hotels listed have a restaurant and room serv- mehran.com; Shahrah-e-Faisal Rd; s/d from Rs 4500/7650; a)
ice, and fridges in rooms. Stuck halfway between midrange and top end,
Gulf Hotel (Map p165; %5661235; gulfhtl@hotmail the Hotel Mehran is a supremely comfortable
.com; Dr Daud Pota Rd; s/d Rs 1400/2200; a) Pretty sim- choice for the price. Having recently under-
ple as midrange options go, but reasonable gone a refit, rooms are clean and modern,
for the price. Nicer ‘executive’ rooms have a and there’s a good restaurant and some handy
Rs 400 premium and air-con, but whichever shops and a bank in the grounds. Discounts
you go for try to avoid the rooms looking are frequently there for the asking.
gloomily onto the concrete wall at the back
SINDH
Marriott Hotel (Map p165; %5682011; www.marriott the place to yourself. Dinner winds up around
.com; 9 Abdullah Haroon Rd; s/d Rs 25,000/35,000; ais) midnight. Mid- to upper-end restaurants at-
Located opposite the Sheraton Hotel (below), tract a tax of 15%, not included here unless
the Marriott has similarly tight security due to otherwise stated, but there’s often live music
the close proximity of the US consulate. This or other entertainment as compensation.
has scared travellers off in the past, but the Karachi’s top hotels offer further fine-dining
quality of the hotel at least is not in dispute, options to the listings here, but be prepared
with elegant rooms, good service and the ex- to bid adieu to a wad of cash.
pected complement of restaurants, business
and health facilities. Restaurants
Sheraton Hotel (Map p165; %5681021; www.sher Bar.B.Q Tonight (Map pp162-3; near Boat Basin, Clifton;
aton.com/karachi; Club Rd; s/d Rs 25,000/37,000; ais) mains Rs 80-210; hdinner) A restaurant with a great
The common areas of the Sheraton feel a little atmosphere that delivers exactly what its name
tired compared with the Pearl Continental’s promises. Grab a seat outdoors, or allow a
opulence, but an extensive renovation pro- waiter to find you a table inside (ask for the
gramme means that it’s catching up fast. As rooftop). The chicken tikka and Afghan ke-
a result, rooms vary according to price – from babs never disappoint, but we fell in love with
slightly old-fashioned to the glitzy Tower the roast mutton leg, with the meat falling off
Rooms, possibly the swankiest hotel rooms the bone (Rs 450).
currently on offer in the city. Elsewhere in Arizona Grill (Map pp162-3; %5830351; 20C 2nd
the hotel there are five restaurants, the usual Commercial Lane, Zamzama Blvd; mains Rs 135-425; hlunch
pool/health club combination and an excel- & dinner; a) Those seeking a change from
lent branch of Liberty Books. Pakistani fare will relish their choices here –
Avari Towers (Map p165; %5660100; www.avari.com; all juicy steaks, pasta and salads, pepped up
Fatima Jinnah Rd; s/d 27,100/29,000; ais) As befits with some great fruit cocktails. Pepper steak
its name, Avari Towers literally looms over the with fries and salad (Rs 310) hits the spot, but
competition as the tallest hotel in town. It is we also found the spinach ravioli well worth
a fine choice and doesn’t skimp on its guests, investigating for palates needing a break from
offering complimentary services like mini- meat-heavy menus.
bars where other hotels charge. Rooms are Village Garden Restaurant (Map p165; %5212880;
restrained (except for a surfeit of pillows), and Palace Cinema Bldg, Civil Lines; mains Rs 140-550; hdin-
there are three restaurants offering Japanese, ner) Karachi’s oldest restaurant, the Village
Chinese and barbecue, the latter on a rooftop Garden is a pleasant place to sit in the open
that has the best views in the city. Also tucked air and catch a breeze. The menu here is heavy
away is a bar serving alcohol. on barbecued meat, plus some tasty karais
Pearl Continental (Map p165; %5685021; www (food braised with vegetables, served bub-
.pchotels.com.pk; Club Rd; s/d Rs 28,000/46,000; ais) bling in its own pan) and the like. The TV in
SINDH
Karachi’s most sophisticated hotel by a head, the middle of the restaurant is permanently
the PC has stylish rooms, slick service, vari- tuned to the cricket.
ous amenities and a handful of top restau- Alpha (Map p165; %5214177; Sarwar Shahid Rd;
rants: Sakura serves the best Japanese food in mains from Rs 150; hlunch & dinner; a) Up some
town and the Royal Elephant serves excellent narrow stairs, the low ceiling, low lights and
Thai cuisine, and there’s a nice coffee shop wood-panelled walls give this place a hushed
in the lobby (wi-fi enabled). High standards ambience that makes it popular with couples.
mean that the PC is the one top-end hotel Food is Pakistani and Chinese, with a good
that has no trouble in filling its rooms, so is selection of vegetarian dishes served in big,
the one place where discounts are few and inexpensive portions.
far between. oPurple Haze (off Map pp162-3; %5860941;
66C-68C 25th St, Tauheed Commercial, DHA; mains Rs 150-750;
EATING hlunch & dinner; a) Purple Haze is a plush,
Karachi has one of the widest ranges of restau- dimly lit café-style eatery that attracts the
rants in Pakistan, so it’s worth dining out as young and hip side of Karachi life. There’s
much as you can. Places tend to open for din- wi-fi, and frequent live music at the weekends,
ner around 7.30pm but really get going after from traditional to Urdu hip-hop. The food’s
9pm – eating before then often means having not bad either, leaning towards Western and
lonelyplanet.com K A R A C H I • • D r i n k i n g 171
fusion styles, from fancy burgers and noodles Boat Basin Restaurants (Map pp162-3; Clifton;
to scrumptious cheesecake and great coffee. hdinner) Over 40 simple but good-value ea-
Café Zouk (off Map pp162-3; % 5856491; 27C teries are strung along this informal open-air
Khayaban-e-Shamsher, Phase 5, DHA; mains Rs 199-369; promenade on the edge of Clifton. It’s pretty
hlunch & dinner; a) Another popular choice quiet during the day, getting going after 9pm.
with Karachi’s middle and upper classes, but It’s perennially popular with Karachi soci-
attracting more families rather than bright ety as a place to eat and meet; alfresco din-
young things. The menu leans towards ing is particularly pleasant here during the
Continental and Thai food, with some great cooler months. Most menus sport ubiquitous
surprises like chilli-stuffed prawns. Pakistani and fast-food fare and you can fill
Evolution (off Map pp162-3; %5860941; 66C-68C 25th up for Rs 100 to Rs 200.
St, Tauheed Commercial, DHA; mains Rs 249-739; hlunch &
dinner; a) In the same building as Purple Haze, DRINKING
Evolution remains one of the cooler places to To buy alcohol in Karachi you have to get a
eat – and be seen – in Karachi. It’s popular with permit issued by the Excise Department (Map p165;
the sons and daughters of Karachi’s upper- %9203326; Block 11, Sindh Secretariat) You’ll need
crust families. Evolution only serves a buffet at your passport and a photocopy of its front
lunch (Rs 300) but has an ‘around-the-world’ à pages, Pakistani visa and entry stamp. The
la carte theme at dinner, with Pakistani, Italian, only decent alternative we found was the bar
Thai, Continental and Japanese dishes. You at Avari Towers hotel (opposite) – take your
name it, they’ve probably offered it. Good food passport and dress smartly.
in classy surroundings.
Thai Seafood (off Map pp162-3; %5805522; 3C Old ENTERTAINMENT
Sunset Blvd, Phase II DHA; mains Rs 290-950; hlunch & din- While Karachi doesn’t have any nightclubs,
ner; a) Stepping into the icy air of this modern it has some fantastic restaurants that really
restaurant is delicious, and the food almost spring to life after dark. Being a regional capi-
matches. The menu has a wide range of Thai tal, musical and theatrical performances often
and Chinese dishes, with an excellent-value take place; see local newspapers for current de-
three-course set menu for Rs 299. Service is tails. MA Jinnah Rd is the place to catch a film,
a bit fussy without actually being brilliant, with the Capri, Prince and Nishat cinemas (see
and waiters sometimes insist on bringing all Map p165) showing English-language films.
three courses at once. Steamed squid with
lemon grass and the fish cakes with chilli SHOPPING
are winners. The economic heart of Pakistan, Karachi is also
Beach Luxury Hotel (Map pp162-3; %5611031; off the country’s marketplace. The main shopping
Moulvi Talamuddin Khan Rd; buffet Rs 350; hdinner) A district is Saddar (Map p165), a conglomera-
‘floating restaurant’ in the grounds of this tion of historic bazaars, modern shopping
SINDH
hotel makes a great setting for dinner. The buf- centres and tourist shops selling everything
fet has a wide selection of Pakistani, Chinese from carpets and jewellery to clothing and
and Continental dishes, with seafood well assorted souvenirs. In every direction the foot-
represented and plenty of salad. Popular with paths are crowded with stalls flogging all man-
families, it also has live music most nights, ner of wares. It’s a great place for handicraft
giving the place a lively atmosphere. shopping, from Kashmiri embroidery to Swati
carved woodwork. Saddar’s main bazaar is the
Quick Eats jam-packed central Bohri Bazaar (Map p165).
For cheap eats, popular options include Another good place is Zainab Market (Map
buzzing Boat Basin, Saddar (Dr Daud Pota p165), further south. Cooperative handicraft
Rd is good for tighter budgets), around centres and the more expensive emporiums
Mereweather Tower and along Burnes Rd. are on Abdullah Haroon Rd, Zaibun-Nisa St
Krispy Broast Chicken (Map p165; Raja Ghazanfar Ali and Club Rd. For carpets try the shops along
Rd; mains from Rs 80; hlunch & dinner) A no-frills fast- Zaibun-Nisa St near Bohri Bazaar.
food eatery, popular with workers on lunch For modern shops squarely aimed at the
breaks and evening diners alike. The menu is city’s upper class, there are a number of up-
vast, from karai and kebabs to burgers and market department stores and various down-
biryani. Cheap and filling. town boutiques. One slick shopping mall is
172 K A R A C H I • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com
Clifton’s Park Towers (Map pp162–3), which Various international airlines have offices in
has plenty of designerware as well as an upbeat central Karachi, including the following:
food court. Air Arabia (Map p165; %5693817; Lotia Bldg, Abdullah
Most shops in Karachi are closed on Haroon Rd)
Sunday. Opening hours vary, but most tend British Airways (Map p165; %5686076; Marriott
to operate from around 10.30am to 8pm Hotel, 9 Abdullah Haroon Rd)
or 9pm. Cathay Pacific (Map p165; %5660406; Metropole
Hotel, Club Rd)
GETTING THERE & AWAY Emirates (Map p165; %5683377; 265A RA Lines Sarwar
Air Rd)
Karachi’s international and domestic air Gulf Air (Map p165; %5675231; Kashif Centre, Shah-
terminals are both located at the Jinnah rah-e-Faisal Rd)
International Airport (Map p160; %4572011, 9248792), Indian Airlines (Map p165; %2625023; 1st fl, Shaheen
about 10km east of the city centre. You can Complex, Dr Ziauddin Ahmad Rd)
buy onward domestic air tickets here 24 hours Iran Air (Map p165; %5216293; Hotel Mehran,
a day outside the arrival terminal. There are Shahrah-e-Faisal Rd)
money-exchange counters and ATMs in the KLM (Map p165; %5689071; Club Rd)
arrival hall and before you clear customs upon Singapore Airlines (Map p165; %5683078; 2-3
departure. The international departure ter- Services Club Bldg, Mereweather Rd)
minal (after customs) has some overpriced Thai Airways (Map p165; %5660160; Metropole Hotel,
handicraft shops, while the domestic terminal Club Rd)
has a good bookshop.
Pakistan International Airlines (PIA; www.piac.com Bus
.pk) operates the most comprehensive domestic There are plentiful long-distance bus com-
service. The busiest routes are to Islamabad panies, mostly clustered in and around the
(Rs 3680, 1¾ hours, five daily) and Lahore Blue Lines Bus Station (Map p165; Dr Daud Pota Rd)
(Rs 4280, 1¾ hours, seven daily), along with near Cantonment Railway Station. These
daily flights to Peshawar (Rs 7920, two hours), include Blue Lines (%5660821) and Green Lines
Quetta (Rs 6250, one hour), Faisalabad (Rs 3720, (%5652665). Buses run out at all times from
90 minutes), Multan (Rs 4280, 90 minutes) here to Lahore (Rs 900, 22 hours), Larkana
and Gwadar. All major cities are served, with (Rs 400, seven hours) and Multan (Rs 450,
other useful flights including to Moenjodaro 13 hours), among other destinations. For
(Rs 3300, four times weekly). Where there are Quetta (Rs 650, 13 hours) go to Lea Market,
multiple daily departures, the night services at from where you’ll also find cheaper buses to
unsociable hours are slightly cheaper. Check destinations across Sindh.
online for full timetables. The comfortable Daewoo service popular
Air Blue runs three times a day to Islamabad in the north was due to commence operat-
SINDH
and Lahore and daily to Quetta. Shaheen Air ing from Karachi with services to Punjab via
flies to Lahore (daily except Saturday) and Hyderabad as we went to press.
three times weekly to Quetta and Peshawar.
Aero Asia has services to Islamabad (up to five Train
daily), Lahore (three daily), and three times Karachi has two main train stations – City
weekly to Peshawar, Faisalabad and Multan. Railway Station and Cantonment Railway
Fares are all within touching distance of each Station. About the same number of trains origi-
other and PIA. nate from each, but all trains from City also stop
at Cantonment soon after. To be sure of a seat,
AIRLINE OFFICES get on at the departure terminus. Train seats fill
The four domestic airlines: up quickly so book as far in advance as possible
Aero Asia (Map p165; %2783033; IEP Bldg, Shahrah- (particularly important for fast trains and the
e-Faisal Rd) more expensive classes).
Air Blue (Map p165; %2247258; Strachen Rd) Reservations can be made at either the City
PIA office (Map p165; %9206721; Strachen Rd; booking office (%9213540, 9213537; h9am-2pm)
h9am-9pm) Has separate departments for international or the Cantonment booking office (%9213565;
and domestic flights. h9am-2pm) but the foreigner/student con-
Shaheen Air (Map p165; %5685590; Strachen Rd) cessions can only be given at the former
lonelyplanet.com K A R A C H I • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 173
Abbreviations:
A = Economy C = Air-conditioned lower E = Air-conditioned sleeper
B = First-class sleeper D = Air-conditioned parlour
(irrespective of which station the train de- at Rs 4 and never topping Rs 20. Potentially
parts from). Go to the superintendent’s office useful routes from Empress Market include
at the Commercial Branch on the 1st floor. Clifton Beach (bus 20), Keamari Harbour via
Major trains from Karachi are listed in the Mereweather Tower (buses 2K, W11, 6B and
boxed text (above), but timetables and fares 8A), and the Quaid-i-Azam Mausoleum (bus
are subject to change. You can double-check 2K). Karachi City Guide has a full listing of
at the station or direct with Pakistan Railways routes. The most salubrious local buses are
(%117; www.pakrail.com), or with the Time & run by the Metro Bus Service and the Green
Fare Table (Rs 25), which is updated twice Bus Service, which are a little more expensive
yearly and is often sold at stations. These than others but more comfortable and usu-
sources will also have additional train services ally less crowded. They cover a limited area,
not mentioned in the boxed text. predominantly between Saddar, Clifton and
the city centre. You can catch them at Saddar’s
GETTING AROUND Empress Market.
Traffic jams are a frustrating constant of
Karachi life, so bear this in mind if you’ve Car
got a connection or appointment to make. It’s easier to hire a care with driver than try
to navigate Karachi’s insane traffic yourself.
To/From the Airport Pearl Radio Cab (%4604465) charges Rs 1500 per
Several reliable 24-hour radio cab firms day including fuel, if you’re staying in the city
operate from outside the arrivals terminal limits and travel less than 100km. Travel Walji’s
at Jinnah International Airport, including (Map p165; %5660248; 13 Services Mess, Mereweather Rd)
is recommended for self-drive cars. Prices
SINDH
in Karachi – the bus drops you 3km from then to Hyderabad, and only three years later
Banbhore and you then walk to the ruins – Thatta was sacked by the Persian Nadir Shah.
or from Thatta via Gharo on the National Although it never regained its importance,
Hwy. many of the old buildings here and in the
nearby Makli Hill still stand as reminders of
Haleji Lake better days.
This lake is said to be one of the largest wa- The town is dominated by the beautiful
terfowl sanctuaries in Asia. Thousands of World Heritage–listed Shah Jahan Mosque,
birds from over 75 species migrate from as which was built between 1644 and 1647. Its
far as Siberia during winter. Visitors include 93 domes around a central courtyard give
flamingos, pelicans, pheasant-tailed jacana, it superb acoustics, while wind towers pro-
herons, partridges and egrets. The lake is 87km vide natural air-conditioning. The tilework –
from Karachi and 15km before Thatta, on a with wide-ranging shades of blue – and the
turning off the National Hwy just west of the calligraphy are equally impressive, and it is
village of Gujjo. Private transport is needed one of Pakistan’s loveliest mosques. It’s said
to get here. that Shah Jahan built the mosque to repay
STDC runs a small bungalow here. Contact the townspeople for their hospitality when he
its Karachi office (Map pp162-3; %021-7788530; 1st sought refuge here after revolting against his
fl, 114-115 Block C, Sea Breeze Plaza, Shahrah-e-Faisal Rd; father, the Mughal emperor Jehangir.
h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri) for Thatta is 98km east of Karachi, and you can
prices and (mandatory) reservations. catch a bus here from Karachi’s Lea Market
(Rs 75, three hours).
Makli Hill
A vast necropolis, a couple of kilometres be- HYDERABAD
fore Thatta on the road from Karachi, covers %0221 / pop 1.87 million
some 15 sq km of this hill and is said to con- The second-largest city in Sindh, Hyderabad
tain over one million graves. The graves con- is on the Indus about 180km northeast of
sist of mainly sandstone, exquisitely carved Karachi. It’s of little tourist interest and most
with geometric and floral designs like those foreigners who come here do so on specific
at Chaukundi. Among the more significant business, although its sprawling bazaars are
tombs is that of Turkhan ruler Mirza Jani Beg. It good for souvenir hunting.
was built in 1599 and is made of glazed bricks.
North of this is the imposing Mausoleum of Sights
Nawab Isa Khan, former Mughal governor of In 1768 the Kalhora rulers constructed the
Sindh. The Mausoleum of Diwan Shurfa Khan, Shah Makkai Fort here. Originally half a square
built in 1638, is slightly to the northwest, a kilometre in area, today little more than the
square structure with squat round towers at 15m-high wall, the entrance and one interior
SINDH
each corner. A couple of kilometres north, room still stand. On the north side of the hill
the Tomb of Jam Nizamuddin is a 16th-century on which Hyderabad is sited are tombs from
square stone building. the Talpur and Kalhora periods. Shahi Bazaar
There’s a PTDC office (%029-771319; h9am-5pm is a labyrinth of narrow alleys where artisans
Sat-Thu, 9am-noon Fri) at Makli Hill, near the site. produce items including Sindhi embroidery,
From Karachi’s Lea Market catch a bus to block prints, jewellery, pointy-toed shoes and
Makli Hill (Rs 50, three hours). dainty glass bangles.
Thatta Sleeping
Once a large and prosperous city, Thatta There are budget lodgings around Shahi Bazaar
declined after the Indus changed course in and in the Ghari Khatta area, near the train
the early 18th century. According to some station, although they’re frequently reluctant
accounts, Alexander the Great’s army rested to take foreigners. More upmarket options:
here before marching on into the Makran. New Hotel Ritz (%2728351; Cantonment; s/d
From the 14th century, Thatta was important Rs 500/1000; a) Decent cheaper option.
as Sindh’s capital under four Muslim dynas- Faran (%2780194; [email protected];
ties and as a centre for Islamic arts. However, Saddar Bazaar; s/d 1200/1500; a) Similar in price and
in 1739 the capital was moved to Khudabad, standard to the City Gate.
176 T H E I N T E R I O R • • A r o u n d H y d e r a b a d lonelyplanet.com
City Gate (%2611677; Jail Rd; s/d Rs 1230/1545; a) favourite hide-out for local dacoits (bandits) –
Good-value comfy rooms. as a consequence officials discourage tour-
ists from coming here, but if you still plan to
Getting There & Away do so, make sure you first seek advice from
Hyderabad is a road junction with highways Karachi’s PTDC office (see p164).
northwest to Manchhar Lake and Sehwan Ranikot is about 90km northwest of
Sharif, east to Mirpur Khas and the Great Hyderabad and not easy to get to. From Sann, a
Thar Desert, and north to Kot Diji, Sukkur village on the Indus Hwy, a rough track heads
and Punjab. west for 21km to the fort, with no human
Trains leave from Hyderabad Junction to settlements en route. A 4WD is advisable (see
Karachi, Multan, Lahore, Rawalpindi and p173 for details of car-hire companies).
Peshawar. Frequent daily buses leave to all
major destinations including Karachi (Rs 80, Sehwan Sharif
two hours). On the west bank of the Indus, the oasis town
of Sehwan Sharif is 140km northwest of Kotri.
AROUND HYDERABAD It’s one of the oldest towns in Sindh, and was a
Ziarat of Shah Abdul Latif district capital of succeeding Buddhist, Hindu
This important mausoleum and pilgrimage and early Muslim rulers. The prime draw is
site, located in the village of Bhit Shah, about the 14th-century Shrine of Lal Shah Baz Qalandar,
40km north of Hyderabad, honours popular dedicated to an important Sufi saint who came
Sindhi poet and Sufi saint Abdul Latif (1689– here in about 1260.
1752). The mausoleum is covered with beauti- The mausoleum is covered with beauti-
ful blue-and-white tilework, the speciality of ful tiles. Every year on the saint’s urs, 18–19
the neighbouring town of Hala. It’s also the Sha’aban, it’s visited by throngs of pilgrims
focus for huge gatherings of pilgrims during the for a three-day festival, usually in September
saint’s urs (death anniversary festival), gener- or October but ask Karachi’s PTDC office
ally held around April. Ask at the PTDC office (p164) for exact dates as they vary each year.
in Karachi (see p164) as dates vary annually. Year-round, most evenings at around 6pm,
pilgrims gather in the courtyard and dance
GREAT THAR DESERT themselves into hypnotic trances. Near the
Sixty-five kilometres east of Hyderabad, Mirpur present town lies the remains of a vast fort,
Khas boasts a striking 15m-high Buddhist stupa used by Alexander the Great, that was of great
with terracotta figures. However, Mirpur Khas strategic importance for many centuries.
is otherwise of little interest except as a base for
exploring the Great Thar Desert (also called the Manchhar Lake
Tharparkar Desert), which was, at the time of A short drive west of Sehwan Sharif is a
research, strictly off limits to foreigners. The game reserve noted for its wide variety of
SINDH
Great Thar Desert measures about 28,000 sq km birdlife. It’s also of ethnological interest for
and is an extension of India’s vast Rajasthan the Mohana fisherfolk living by its shore, who
plain. It has a number of Jain and Hindu temples, are believed to be the direct descendants of
especially around Nagar Parkar and Mithi. the Indus Valley (and probably pre-Indus
To visit the Great Thar Desert, you really Valley) civilisation of Sindh. There are sev-
need to be self-sufficient with your own ve- eral islands in the lake, accessible by hired
hicle, and to ascertain the current safety situ- boat from the shore.
ation with the PTDC office in Karachi (see To stay at the STDC Lal Shah Baz Resthouse (s/d
p164). Alternatively, it’s easier to visit the Rs 200/400), advance reservations at the Karachi
desert from Punjab in the north, from where STDC office (Map pp162-3; %021-7788530; 1st fl, 114-115
camel safaris can be arranged (see p125). Block C, Sea Breeze Plaza, Shahrah-e-Faisal Rd; h9am-1pm &
2-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri) are essential.
HYDERABAD TO SUKKUR
Ranikot Fort MOENJODARO
With outer walls measuring 24km, this mas- Over 165 sites related to the Indus Valley civi-
sive fort’s history and purpose are unknown, lisation have been described by archaeologists,
although part of it appears to date from the but World Heritage–listed Moenjodaro is the
Talpurian era. More recently it has been a undisputed jewel in the crown. The largest
lonelyplanet.com T H E I N T E R I O R • • M o e n j o d a r o 177
of the ancient cities of Pakistan, its ruins are was destroyed by Aryan invaders in the mid-
spread over 250 hectares. 2nd millennium BC.
History Information
About 4000 BC, when the Mesopotamian Before visiting, it’s advisable to consult
civilisation flourished on the Euphrates, Karachi’s PTDC office (p164) to ensure the
Moenjodaro began to develop as one of the security situation is deemed safe at the time
great cities of the Indus Valley civilisation. The of your intended trip. At times, armed guards
quality of the architecture and town planning have been assigned to visitors on arrival
was exceptional. due to local insecurity (there’s no charge).
Moenjodaro (meaning ‘Mound of the Moenjodaro’s PTDC office (%0741-480082) is by
Dead’) thrived roughly from 2500–1500 BC the site entrance, and has informative staff.
with a population believed to have reached
at least 50,000. However, the population de- Sights
clined abruptly for reasons that are still un- The most exposed parts of the city (site & museum
clear. Long after its demise, Buddhist monks admission Rs 500; h8.30am-5pm Sun-Thu & Sat, 8.30am-
of the Kushan era erected a stupa over 70m 12.30pm & 2.30-5pm Fri Apr-Nov, 9am-4pm Sun-Thu & Sat,
high here. That too is now in ruins, but still 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-4pm Fri Dec-Mar) are open to visi-
rises 11m above the surrounding area and was tors, representing just one-third of the area yet
for a long time the only visible monument. to be excavated. Archaeology buffs will get
The Indus Valley civilisation extended more the most out of it; those with a casual interest
than 1500km along the Indus and its tributaries. may be disappointed given the relative effort
Its main cities were Harappa and Moenjodaro, needed to get here.
but this is the better-preserved site. It appears
that secular law was reinforced by the power of THE REMAINS
a priest caste, although the exact political struc- Except for the stupa, all of the present layer of
tures remain a mystery. Figurines found here excavation is from the same period (around
suggest that the religion incorporated belief in a 2500 BC). There are two parts to the site, a
mother-goddess combined with tree and animal mound to the west and a larger lower settlement
worship, especially of the bull. to the east. The total circumference is about
Originally Moenjodaro was surrounded 5km. The artificial hill symbolically overlooked
by fertile land with a climate far cooler and the rest of the town and housed the elite.
rainier than the present wasteland suggests.
The Indus now flows around 5km to the west, Upper Site
although at the time it was beside the town. Next to the stupa are the remains of a large
There are three clear levels of occupation, building known as the granary, which origi-
the top two built on top of an earlier, de- nally measured 45m by 23m and was later
SINDH
stroyed layer. There are several theories about enlarged. The 27 surviving brickwork piers
how Moenjodaro came to an end. One is that formed part of a ventilation system for the
it collapsed in an earthquake, another that it granary itself, a wooden structure that has
was destroyed by a flood. Rising water levels at long since disintegrated.
several times in the city’s history certainly did The great bath measures 7m by 12m with
require much of it to be rebuilt or abandoned. a depth of 2.5m, and has steps leading down
Building standards also declined over the years from ground level at both ends. The bath was
as one new level was built over another. The city skilfully lined with fired bricks and sealed
became more crowded as the rising Indus re- with watertight materials, and had a brick-
duced the habitable area. Since the 1990s much lined drain. On three sides are the remains of
archaeological work has gone into preserving buildings, some of which may have housed a
the ruins from further water and salt damage. priests’ college. The bath may have had some
The discovery of several skeletons of inhab- ritualistic significance.
itants who had obviously met a violent end, The assembly hall, south of the mound, is
and had never been properly buried, has led less well preserved. The rest of the citadel is
many scholars to claim that Moenjodaro was largely unexcavated. The remains of some
sacked by unknown invaders. Some archae- buttresses southeast of the hill suggest that
ologists purport the Indus Valley civilisation the upper site, or citadel, was once surrounded
178 T H E I N T E R I O R • • M o e n j o d a r o lonelyplanet.com
MOENJODARO 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
To Larkana
(28km) To Airport
(200m)
PTDC Office;
PTDC Motel
Archaeology Museum
ack
Resthouse
king Tr
al
Main W
Bazaar Area
(according to Sir
Mortimer Wheeler)
Wealthy
Residential
Area Trench
Priest’s
College
Great
Bath Buddhist
Granary Stupa
Stairs
Stupa
Mound
Trench
Assembly
Hall
Tower
Defensive Wall
Fortifications
SINDH
Sixteen Small
Cottages
by a defensive wall. From the citadel you can wide. The main streets were also met at right
clearly see the neatly laid-out block pattern angles by lanes, mostly 1.5m to 3m wide. The
of the lower site. houses were entered from these lanes.
What is known as the wealthy residential
Lower Site area in the north is the largest part so far un-
What little has been excavated of the lower site covered. To the south, the poor residential area
shows it was planned on a grid system, with contains smaller structures that were probably
main streets at right angles and about 10m the dwellings of working-class Moenjodarans.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T H E I N T E R I O R • • S u k k u r 179
Of this smaller group of residences, only two Getting There & Away
rows – each with eight two-roomed, single- The airport is about 1km north of the PTDC
storey buildings – have been uncovered. It’s office. PIA flies from Karachi on Thursday,
also possible that these were artisans’ shops. Friday, Saturday and Sunday (Rs 3300/5900
Although the lower town was overlooked single/return, 30 minutes) in the afternoons.
from the citadel and built to a regular plan, the A shuttle bus drops you at the site.
houses were obviously designed with privacy A taxi from Larkana, 28km from Moen-
in mind. Pipes from the houses led into brick jodaro, costs about Rs 600 (one way). A bus
gutters along the main streets, an extraordi- will cost Rs 35 (40 minutes). There are two
nary innovation for the time. There were pub- trains to Moenjodaro from Karachi, the Bolan
lic wells in the streets, some of which survive in Mail and Khushal Khan Khattak Express, both
good condition, and in some houses there were Quetta-bound, both taking around nine hours.
private wells and even baths and latrines. See boxed text, p173,for more information.
It’s believed most houses in the wealthy
residential area had two storeys. Some dwell- SUKKUR
ings have staircases leading up to nowhere, The town of Sukkur is home to the Sukkur
and a few have holes at ceiling level suggesting Barrage, a 1400m-long series of sluice gates
wooden beams. There were few windows and that control the flooding of the Indus. It feeds
the houses were cut off from the lanes by high seven irrigation canals that ultimately water
walls. Some buildings have thicker walls, which nearly three million hectares of Sindh. An
may have been artisans’ shops or factories. impressive piece of British engineering, it’s
Some smaller structures at intervals along the also a sensitive installation so don’t flash your
main roads appear to have been sentry boxes. camera.
The town has an older historic area, as it was
MUSEUM a key stop on the trade route to the Bolan Pass.
The good museum contains relics from the The most interesting historic building is the
site, including engraved seals, terracotta toys, needle-shaped Minaret of Mir Masum Shah, com-
kitchen utensils, weapons, sculpture, jewellery pleted in 1614. It’s 84ft (25.6m) tall, 84ft in di-
and other ornaments. If you’re coming to ameter, with 84 steps and a lofty view of Sukkur.
the site from Karachi, it’s worth visiting the The lively bazaar is also worth a look. Near
National Museum (p164) first, as it contains Lansdowne Bridge is the island of Sadhubella,
some of Moenjodaro’s best-known finds, such where there is an active Hindu complex with
as the iconic ‘priest-king’ sculpture, and a temples to Ganesh, Shiva and Hanuman.
bronze statuette of a dancing girl. Accommodation options:
Mehran (%071-613792; fax 071-613892; Station Rd;
Sleeping & Eating s/d from Rs 170/275)
The new on-site PTDC Motel (%0741-459266; s/d Forum Inn (%071-5613011; United Nations Rd; s/d
SINDH
to the public every 2 March; double-check days in a great conflagration, possibly at the
with Karachi’s PTDC office (p164). hands of the Moenjodarans, who appear to
have adopted many features of its layout and
KOT DIJI architecture. Little of visual interest remains
This is the site of a pre-Indus Valley civili- of the original settlement, and Kot Diji’s main
sation town dating from around 3500–2500 tourist attraction is its fort.
BC. Little is known of its history or inhabit- Kot Diji is 35km south of Rohri, on the
ants. Some archaeologists claim it ended its main Karachi–Sukkur bus route.
SINDH
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
181
Azad Jammu
& Kashmir
Azad Jammu & Kashmir (AJ&K) – azad means ‘free’ – is pre-Partition Kashmir’s western third,
administered by Pakistan under the terms of the 1949 UN ceasefire. Jammu, the southern
end of the Jammu & Kashmir state that Britain assembled from former Sikh territories in
1846, is mostly on the Indian-held side. Most Pakistanis feel the Indians wrongly and unfairly
took possession of the majority of the territory at Partition and that it has been occupied
illegally ever since. This all-consuming and divisive issue remains the dominant feature of
Pakistan-India relations.
Beautiful and tragic, AJ&K’s best feature is its natural splendour, exemplified by the forested
valleys of the Lesser Himalaya and the Pir Panjal Range, which forms the southwest rim of
the Vale of Kashmir. But beneath the beauty lie the destructive mountain-building forces
that have recently brought so much misfortune to this already troubled region.
Pakistan’s 16km security zone along the Line of Control puts the most scenic parts of AJ&K –
the Neelam Valley, the upper Jhelum Valley above Muzaffarabad, plus mountainous areas to
the south – off limits to would-be travellers. How easy it is to visit the remaining regions –
Muzaffarabad and the Nanga Parbat region, and the nonborder districts of Bagh, Poonch,
Kotli and Mirpur – depends on the current military climate along the Line of Control, the
whim of bureaucracy, whom you ask, and perhaps even what road you take to get there.
Secretariat, Islamabad). You may also be asked to provide an additional letter from your embassy or
high commission in Islamabad reaffirming that you are indeed the person stated in your passport
(your embassy may charge a fee for this service) and forward this to the Ministry of Foreign
Affairs (%051-9207917; Constitution Ave G-5/1, Islamabad). Apply as far in advance as possible as it’s
a long and convoluted procedure and at the end they may just say no.
The entry and permit situation is constantly subject to change; for the latest information
check with the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC) in any major Pakistani city,
and Muzaffarabad’s AJ&K Tourism (%058810-34623; fax 32625; Bank Sq, Chattar).
182 A Z A D J A M M U & K A S H M I R lonelyplanet.com
Naran NORTHERN
AREAS
r
y
ve
Rati Gali
lle
Kel
Ri
Neelam
Va
(4140m) Sharda
an
nh
Neelam
Rati Gali Sar
gh
Ku
River
Ka
Halmat
Dowarian
Line of Control
Nala
Neelam
Jagran
Kutton
Kundal Shahi
Machiara
Balakot National Salkhala
Park
Garhi Nee Kashmir
Habibullah lam
(Indian-Administered)
Ri
Patikha
ver
Mansehra
Muzaffarabad Chananian ep
Le
Village a
KKH
Subri Lake
Ri
Reshian
Jh
ve
Garhi
elu
er PI
Dhani Hatian District
Baqalan R
Naili
Chikar Jhe PA Baramula
lum Chinari NJ
Loonbagla Va AL
Kohala Dungian lley Chakothi Uri Srinagar
RA
Sudhangali NG
Dhirkot E
Arja Bagh District
Bagh
Aliabad
Murree
Dhalkot l
tro
Rawalakot on
Poonch fC
eo
Azad Pattan Banjosa District Lin
Punch
Tararkhel
Palandri
Tattapani
ISLAMABAD Karote
Rawalpindi
Sensa r
Kotli
ve
Ri
Mandra
Poo n c h
Kotli
District
The external boundaries of Pakistan and
Grand Trunk
Mangla
Rd
Mangla Mirpur
Dina Mirpur Samani
Naushahra
District
Jhelum Baghsar
PUNJAB Bhimber
To Gujrat
(20km) Jammu
lonelyplanet.com A Z A D J A M M U & K A S H M I R • • M u z a f f a r a b a d 183
The death and destruction stretched to Islamabad and Indian-held Kashmir, but Azad Kashmir
and nearby towns in the North-West Frontier Province fared the worst. At the time of writing,
the Pakistani and international aid efforts and the resilience of the people were very much in
evidence, but the magnitude of the devastation was still shocking and the ongoing needs of
the relief effort remained obvious. Numerous organisations, international and local, are provid-
ing aid and assistance and welcome donations. It is important to examine the legitimacy of
the agency when making a donation, being mindful of allegations of corruption and links to
terrorist organisations.
184 A Z A D J A M M U & K A S H M I R • • M u z a f f a r a b a d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Sights BUS
RED FORT From the general bus stand, regular buses and
Also called Muzaffarabad Fort (admission free; minibuses go to Mansehra (Rs 60, 1½ hours),
h9am-6pm), this stronghold at a kink in with dramatic views into the Jhelum and
the Neelam River was completed by Sultan Kunhar Valleys; Murree (Rs 100, 2½ hours);
Muzaffar Khan in 1646. The Mughals built and Rawalpindi’s Pir Wadhai (Rs 160, four
their own fort and its importance waned, but hours) via Murree. For the Kaghan Valley, take
the Dogra rulers of Jammu & Kashmir state a Mansehra bus and change at Garhi Habibullah
rebuilt and enlarged this one. It’s been tidied (Rs 30, 40 minutes). Other buses connect with
up for tourists, though significantly damaged Bagh, Rawalakot and southern AJ&K.
by the quake, with an eclectic small museum
AZAD JAMMU & KASHMIR
up the Neelam at Salkhala, 8km up the Jagran Jhelum was dammed into a lake by a landslide
Nala at Kutton and currently occupied by the in 1975. The rustic angler’s hut was destroyed
army, and further on at Jagran village. There by the 2005 earthquake; for new developments
are trout hatcheries at Salkhala and Kutton. inquire at Muzaffarabad’s AJ&K Tourism office
(%058810-34623; fax 32625; Bank Sq, Chattar).
Athmaqam & Neelam
Ten kilometres past Kundal Shahi is Hill Stations
Athmaqam, the regional headquarters, with At Dhani Baqalan, about 30km from
a district forestry office and tourist, forestry Muzaffarabad, a road branches south into
© Lonely Planet Publications
186 A Z A D J A M M U & K A S H M I R • • B a g h , P o o n c h , K o t l i & M i r p u r D i s t r i c t s lonelyplanet.com
the hills past several small hill stations. Sitting visit to Jhelum and Rohtas Fort (p137), and
between 1800m and 2100m, these former co- a Mughal fort at Baghsar (close to the Line of
lonial ‘resorts’, like the Galis just to the west in Control and probably off limits).
North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), offer
bracing weather, good walks and views. Sleeping
Chikar, 15km from the turning, has local Book tourist and forestry resthouses with dis-
inns. A tourist resthouse and a PWD rest- trict forestry officers in Bagh, Rawalakot, Kotli
house were both destroyed by the 2005 earth- or Mirpur. Book Bagh and Poonch District
quake. Ten kilometres on is Loonbagla, then PWD resthouses with the executive engineer
Dungian and Sudhangali; each used to boast in Rawalakot.
a tourist resthouse or PWD resthouse but
all were inoperable at the time of research. BAGH
From Sudhangali you can day-hike up the Bagh town has a few budget hotels. In Dhirkot
3000m Ganga Choti peak. Southwards the there are three tourist huts and a forestry
road descends towards Bagh. resthouse.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
187
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
North-West Frontier
Province
North-West Frontier Province (NWFP) seems a region named purely for the romance of travel.
A quick look at the map tells you why, with the Khyber Pass to Afghanistan, the peaks of
the Hindukush, the towns of Peshawar and Chitral all speaking of rugged mountains, proud
tribesmen and Kipling-style adventure.
In the valleys of Peshawar and Swat, the ancient, influential region of Gandhara blossomed,
its Buddhist art and doctrines spreading into Asia. It left behind a parade of archaeological
sites, many yet to be fully explored by travellers. Later inhabitants left a less tangible but
equally famous legacy. The Pashtun tribes gave bloody noses to some of history’s most
famous conquerors, even earning themselves the respect of the British soldiers who they
frequently fought to a standstill. The autonomous Tribal Areas were born of those conflicts,
and their inhabitants hold the Pakistani government at arm’s length to this day.
More peaceful inhabitants are the Kalasha, pagans clinging onto their old rituals in isolated
valleys near Chitral against the odds. The Kalasha region is one of the most stunning parts
of the Hindukush range, but the whole of northern NWFP is ideal trekking country, from
Chitral to the green slopes of the Swat Valley.
For all the tradition, NWFP remains closely tied to the present. Modern politics makes strong
headlines, with the Tribal Areas and radical Islam regularly impacting on the national stage.
While local insecurities tend to happen in areas away from travellers’ interests, visitors should
be aware of underlying tensions, and take advice on the current situation before travelling.
HIGHLIGHTS
Get lost in the atmosphere of Peshawar’s Old City
(p193), where the traditional and modern collide in a
maze of bazaars Kalasha Chitral
Valleys
Venture up to the Khyber Pass (p200) on the Afghan
border, the age-old invasion route to the
Swat
subcontinent
Khyber
Explore the traditional pagan culture of the Kalasha Pass
Peshawar
(p228), in their ancient valleys high in the
Hindukush
Take in the mountain views (and rugged moun-
tain roads) in the old kingdom of Chitral (p220)
Chill out in Swat (p207), the lush valley that’s
played host to everyone from Alexander the
Great and great Buddhist empires to modern
Pakistani honeymooners
A B C D
See Chitral District Map (p221) CHINA
Boroghil Pass
TAJIKISTAN (3777m)
1 Lasht
U SH Darkot
UK Pass
ND
Tribal Areas HI NORTHERN AREAS
Buni Mastuj Karimabad
The external boundaries of Pakistan Gilgit
& India on this map have not been Dorah
Pass Chitral Rive
authenticated and may not be correct. r
Hunza
Chitral Shandur Pass
Gol NP Chitral (3810m)
Gilgit
Ri
See Dir & Swat Districts Map (p208)
ve
AFGHANISTAN
r
Drosh
2 Indus
Kalam Kohistan
35
Chilas
lley
Lowari Pass KKH
(3118m)
Va
Swat Babusar Nanga
er
us
Madyan Ind Parbat
Riv
Dir Pass
Nameh
Pass
Besham In
dus
Dir Khwazakhela
Naran
Timargarha Shangla Pass KK
BAJAUR H of Control
Mingora (2134m) Batagram Line
KABUL Kabul Malakand
Malakand Pass Mansehra
Riv MOHMAND Muzaffarabad
Jalalabad
er See Around
Mardan
3 Charsadda Mardan Map Abbottabad
Khyber Pass Swabi (p205)
Peiwar Peshawar Pla
in Nowshera AZAD JAMMU
Pass Tarbela Havelian & KASHMIR
PESHAWAR Reservoir
Parachinar Darra Adam Murree
KHYBER Khel
KURRAM Taxila ISLAMABAD
ORAKZAI Attock
Rawalpindi
Kohat
See Around Peshawar Map (p201) Mandra
Thal
INDIA
Tru
Mianwali
nk
PUNJAB
SOUTH
Rd
WAZIRISTAN Khushab
Tank
r
ive
R
Gomal
us
Pass
Ind
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
thought evolved and spread deeper into Asia. from the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan
PROVINCE
When the Kushans eventually declined, so (it’s thought that around half that number
did Buddhism, although it clung on in parts still remain in Pakistan). Since 9/11, NWFP
of Swat until the 15th century. has been sucked back into regional events.
Islam first appeared in the region in the As the Tribal Areas become increasingly
8th century, with Arab armies even clashing radicalised by Islamist groups, the Pakistani
with the Chinese near Chitral. However, Islam military attempts to bring the region under
didn’t get a firm foothold until the Afghans governmental control.
started empire-building again through
Mahmud of Ghazni in the 11th century, and People
the Ghorid dynasty a century later. Not that NWFP, along with northern Balochistan
there was long to enjoy the fruits of conquest – and southern Afghanistan, is the land of the
Genghis Khan stormed through Peshawar in Pashtuns. A diverse, proud and martial people,
1221, with Tamerlane (Timur) repeating the they constitute one of the world’s largest tribal
same trick at the end of the 14th century. groups. The British could barely conceal their
The Mughals eventually brought stabil- admiration for the fighting abilities of the
ity, taking the Peshawar and Swat Valleys Pashtuns, even when lined up against them.
under their rule, with Peshawar a favourite One thing that appeals to many foreigners is the
retreat for Mughal rulers. But the Pashtuns Pashtuns’ ironclad, if sometimes bloody, moral
were unruly subjects, and in 1680 the Pashtun code, known as Pashtunwali or Pukhtunwali
warrior-poet Khushal Khan Khattak returned (see the boxed text, p190). Pashtuns dominate
Peshawar to the Afghans. NWFP to the southern tip of Chitral, the mid-
Somewhat foolishly, the subsequent Afghan dle of Swat and from Besham across the Indus
Durrani dynasty granted governorship of to Batagram and Mansehra.
Lahore to the Sikh maharaja Ranjit Singh,
who proceeded to expand his domain into a Climate
small empire. In 1818 the Sikhs occupied the Central NWFP, featuring the verdant valleys
Peshawar Valley and ransacked Peshawar. of the Swat and Indus Rivers, receives the
The British picked up the pieces after the edge of the monsoon rains in summer. The
collapse of Sikh rule, and the Afghans never saw lower reaches of the valleys are hot and humid
Peshawar again. British policy was all about sub- from June to mid-September. The upper val-
duing the tribes on their ‘northwest frontier’. leys and mountainous north are pleasantly
They’d failed to bring the Afghans to heel in two mild and usually dry at this time, but heavy
disastrous wars (1838–42 and 1878–80), so in rain can fall at any time in the mountains.
1893 imposed a common border, the so-called Winter is bitterly cold and long in the moun-
Durand Line. In 1901 NWFP was made a sepa- tains with the passes blocked by snow for
rate province, and the Pashtuns bought off by months at a time.
granting them the autonomous Tribal Areas. Around Peshawar and the south, the plains
The province has remained key in Pakistan’s and low rocky mountains are usually dry and
post-Independence politics. In the 1980s it hot (extremely so in summer) with pleasantly
swelled with almost four million refugees warm days and cold nights in winter.
Swat is shared by Pashtuns with Kohistanis over the local Pashtun population. Recent elec-
(who spread to the Karakoram Highway) tions have returned a provincial government
and the Gujars, nomadic herders who sympathetic to the Taliban. West and south of
spend winter in the foothills and then drive the city, highways lead into the autonomous
their animals up the roads to high pastures Tribal Areas where government writ vanishes
in summer. the second you step off the main road: visitors
Chitral is a real ethnic patchwork. Indigenous to the Khyber Pass must be accompanied by an
Chitralis are descended from the ancient Kho, armed tribal escort.
and while most are Sunni Muslims, many Atmosphere is all in Peshawar. The old
northerners are Ismailis, followers of the Aga city is a warren of bazaars, where samovars
Khan, including the seminomadic Wakhi in dispense green tea into tiny enamelled pots,
the far northeast, where the mountains blend which are raced by eager boys to reclining
into Afghanistan and Tajikistan. merchants through an air thick with the smell
Chitral’s best-known minority is the non- of kebabs, rickshaws fumes and the cacoph-
Muslim Kalasha, remnants of a much wider ony of an endless parade of (mostly male)
community that once stretched across south- humanity. Modernity abruptly collides with
ern Chitral and Nuristan in Afghanistan. tradition – there are more autorickshaws than
They now live a peaceful but poverty-line camels and mobile phones are everywhere,
existence in three valleys southwest of but Peshawar’s past remains persuasive,
Chitral town. tangible, visible.
Away from the throng of the old city, the
PESHAWAR British cantonment has shady boulevards,
churches, army quarters and lavish high-
%091 / pop 1.24 million walled homes. The city’s post-Partition face
Peshawar (pronounced pu-shah-wur) conjures includes well-to-do University Town and the
images of romance, intrigue and danger – the sprawling administrative-residential township
archetypal frontier town. Sat at the foot of the of Hayatabad.
Khyber Pass, it has been an important trading Peshawar’s close relationship with
town and staging post for invasions for cen- Afghanistan continues. Waves of refugees
turies, its fortunes often more closely linked swelled the population in the 1980s, making
to affairs in Kabul than the flat lands of the up a sizable minority. Many still live in the
Indus and Punjab. Even today, the Pakistani refugee camps outside the city limits. Much
government maintains an often tenuous hold of the city’s exotic character is derived from
lonelyplanet.com P E S HA W A R • • H i s t o r y 191
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
PESHAWAR 0
0 1 mile
2 km
To Charsadda (27km);
A B C Mardan (60km); D
Mingora (165km);
INFORMATION EATING Chitral (355km)
Alliance Française...............................1 A2 Shiraz Restaurant...............................6 A2
British Council Library.........................2 A3
d
dda R
1 Iranian Consulate...............................3 A3 TRANSPORT
Mission Hospital.................................4 C2 Sadabaha Bus Stand - Minibuses to Darra
Charsa
Adam Khel, Kohat, Bannu & Dera Ismail
SLEEPING Khan..............................................7 C3
Hotel Grand.......................................5 A2
Peshawar
Mic
City Train
See Peshawar Old City Map (p195)
hn
Station
iR
d
Grand Trunk Rd
Khyber Rd
Bala Hisar To General
Bus Stand (1km);
Jheel Rd
Gunner Rd
Rd Fort
Tariq Rd
Michni Rd
Babar Rd
Daewoo Terminal (1km);
ar
Rd
(Jamrud Rd) dd Islamabad (162km)
To Islamia College (500m); Sa y R d
er
2 Hayatabad (3km); 5 Kh
yb il wa Old City
Smugglers' Bazaar (14km); Ho
Ra
Khyber Pass (50km) 6 Cantonment
Rd d sp
y lR
ali
ita
Peshawar t
rsi J all
lR
University ive 4
Rd
Kh
Un e M Rd
d
jid
ad
Th r as
im
d da M Peshawar
Sh
Sa i
hr Cantonment
ah
1 3 ne
ee
Bhanamari
Rd
2 Chinar Rd Chowk
Airport
ber
7
Khy
Koha
t Rd
this Afghan connection, as is its reputation for Like the Kushans, the Afghan kings fa-
intrigue (and occasional instability). voured Peshawar as a winter residence, and
Modern Peshawar almost chokes on its were aggrieved when the upstart Sikh kingdom
popularity. Amid tough competition, it snatched it in 1818 and levelled its buildings.
makes a strong bid for the most polluted city This coincided with the start of the Great Game,
in Pakistan. Everyone seems to be in busi- and Afghan desire to regain Peshawar helped
ness, and politics and religion are often on draw Britain into the first Anglo-Afghan war.
the street. A conservative city, but one buzz- When the Sikh kingdom faded into history,
ing with life, Peshawar remains a fascinating the British made Peshawar their frontier head-
place to get lost in. quarters until Partition. From the Soviet inva-
sion of Afghanistan to the post-9/11 landscape,
HISTORY Peshawar’s strategic significance continues.
The early city, known as Pushapur (the City
of Flowers), first came to prominence as the ORIENTATION
winter capital of the Buddhist Kushans, con- The main landmark on the Grand Trunk Rd
temporaries of Rome and Han China, and (GT Rd) from Rawalpindi is Bala Hisar Fort,
was a centre of both Gandharan art and pil- with the Old City south and east of it. West
grimage. It became Muslim under the Afghan from the Cantonment train station stretches the
Ghaznavids in the 11th century, later fall- Cantonment (Cantt), within which is Saddar
ing under the sway of the Mughal empire, Bazaar (often referred to simply as Saddar).
who like earlier rulers recognised its strategic On Jamrud Rd, 4km west of the
importance at the foot of the Khyber Pass. Cantonment, is University Town. Further
The Mughals filled Peshawar with gardens, out, two roads turn south to Hayatabad. Still
mosques and monuments rivalling those of further is the Kachagari refugee camp and
Lahore and Delhi, until the Afghans wrested Smugglers’ Bazaar; beyond this, the road
it back from their control in the 1680s. heads to the Khyber Pass.
192 P E S HA W A R • • I n f o r m a t i o n lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
Rd
British
Jheel Rd
Fort Rd
sim
Cemetery
Qa
Jam Edwardes
r ud R College
d
To University
Town (2km) 12 1
li d Rd
Ho
Khalid-
sp
The Mall 7
ita
bin-Walid
a
lR
Kh
Bagh
d
Cantonment 16
8
27 25
State Bank
State 17 Peshawar
Building
Bank Cantonment
Rd
il Building Train Station
J al 26 23 Rd
all Dean's 24
Ko
Rd M jid Rd
e as
ha
er Th Trade ay
yb
t
Centre ri M ilw
Kh
Sir
Rd
6 h Ra
19 ne
Sy
13
5 Su
ed
9 3
Rd
2 Rd
Ar
ar
b
10
Sahi dd Fowara
ab
bzad
a Sa Chowk
Rd
Gul
Rd 21 Saddar 11
Kh
Mosque
ad
20 Sunehri
im
22 14 Mosque
Sh
15
ah
18
ee
d
Rd
SLEEPING
l
Mal
Green's Hotel...................................13 C2
New Mehran Hotel...........................14 C2
The
National Bank.....................................6 C2
Pak Telecom Central Telegraph & TRANSPORT
Telephone Office...........................7 D1 Aero Asia..........................................22 B2
Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation Air Arabia.........................................23 C2
(PTDC) Office................................8 D1 Air Blue............................................24 C2
PIA.....................................................9 B2 Emirates............................................25 C1
Saeed Book Bank..............................10 B2 Gulf Air..........................................(see 25)
Speedex Net Café............................11 C2 Qatar Airways................................(see 13)
Rd
The general bus stand and the Daewoo ter- stocked with titles on NWFP and Afghanistan, novels and
minal are on the GT Rd, about 3km east of international magazines.
the fort. Peshawar Cantonment Train Station
is between Saddar and the Old City and the Consulates
airport is west of the Cantonment. Afghan consulate (Map p192; %5285962; The Mall,
Saddar; h9am-1pm Tue & Thu) Issues one-month visas
Maps for US$30, issued on the same day. Bring one photo and
A reasonable 1:26,000 Peshawar Guide Map is a passport photocopy, and expect an interview with the
available for free from the Pakistan Tourism consul if you’re applying as a tourist. The visa fee is paid
Development Corporation (PTDC) office upstairs at the Standard Chartered Bank around the corner
(opposite) in Saddar Rd. on Islamia Rd.
Iranian consulate (Map p191; %9285962; Park Ave,
INFORMATION University Town) A one-month visa with two passport
Bookshops photos costs Rs 3000 (women must have their head
Saeed Book Bank (Map p192; Arbab Rd, Saddar) Far covered). Travellers report mixed success applying in
and away Peshawar’s leading bookshop, comprehensively Peshawar; Islamabad may be more reliable.
lonelyplanet.com P E S HA W A R • • S i g h t s 193
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
Post
PROVINCE
US consulate (Map p192; %5279801; 11 Hospital Rd,
Cantonment) Main post office (Map p192; Saddar Rd) Come here to
send parcels and for poste restante.
Cultural Centres
Alliance Française (Map p191; 1 Park Rd, University Tourist Information
Town) PTDC office (Map p192; %5286829; Benevolent Fund
British Council Library (Map p191; %5842633; Bldg, Saddar Rd; h9am-1pm & 2-4.30pm Mon-Thu &
British Council Bldg, 17C Chinar Rd, University Town; Sat, 9am-noon Fri) Extremely helpful and organised tourist
hnoon-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat) office, with free maps and excellent information on local
sites, hotels and transport timetables. Can also advise on
Emergency guides and arrange tours, from the Old City to as far as the
Police station (Map p195; %15; Qissa Khawani) The Kalasha valleys.
police emergency number is available to call 24 hours
a day. SIGHTS
The Old City
Foreigners’ Registration The best reason to visit Peshawar, the Old
Foreigners’ Registration Office (FRO; Map p192; City is a crowded maze, raucous with the
Sahibzada Gul Rd) Only nationals of 16 countries shouts of vendors and mule drivers, clogged
are required to register – see p378. To get here, with horse-drawn carts, rickshaws, motorcy-
grab a rickshaw and ask for Police Chowk cles and a fascinating parade of Pashtun and
No 2. Afghan men – and a few women, anonymous
in their burkas or bright in their shalwar
Internet Access kameez (traditional dress-like tunic and
There are numerous internet cafés, though trouser combination). The meandering
they are not always obvious from the street streets lure you into dark passages full of
and you may have to ask around. Expect to tiny shops bulging with goods piled high.
pay around Rs 20 per hour. In this ancient city of trade, everything is for
Speedex Net Café (Map p192; off Fowara Chowk, sale. See map p195 for the following sights.
Saddar) Rather incongruously stuck behind a car spare- From the Cantonment you approach the
parts shop, but it has good connections. Old City along Railway Rd and through
Khyber Internet (Map p195; Khyber Bazaar) Khyber Bazaar, consisting mostly of cheap
hotels, kebab stands and carpet merchants
Medical Services (stand around in the bazaar for a few min-
Dabgari Rd in the Old City is good for phar- utes and one will sidle up to you). The city
macies, as well as two hospitals. wall and its 16 gates were knocked down in
Khyber Medical Centre (Map p195; %2211241; the 1950s but many gates remain in name.
Dabgari Rd, Old City) Kabuli Gate is where Khyber Bazaar becomes
Mission Hospital (Map p191; %9217140; Dabgari Rd, Qissa Khawani, the old ‘Street of Storytellers’.
Old City) It is Peshawar’s most famous bazaar, but
Lady Reading Hospital (%9211430; Hospital Rd, there’s little memory left of the traders and
Old City) travellers that would gather here to swap
tales; most of its teashops have given way
Money to clothes and electrical shops. To the left
The moneychangers around Chowk Yadgar round the corner, brass and copperware are for
in the Old City are open all day for quick sale in what used to be the old bird market.
and convenient cash changing; there are also Soon the aroma of tea and spice hints of a
several private moneychangers on Saddar Rd pocket of traders carrying on another ancient
near Green’s Hotel. The following banks do enterprise. To the east of this are cloth and
foreign exchange: shoe shops, and deeper in, you’ll find the
Habib Bank (Map p192; Saddar Rd) nut and grain market of Pipal Mandi. To the
National Bank Bajori Rd (Map p195); near Rampur Gate south is All Saints Church (Church Rd), adapted
(Map p195); Saddar Rd (Map p192) from a former mosque in 1883 and still cor-
Standard Chartered Bank (Map p192; Islamia Rd) Will rectly oriented towards Mecca. A bird market
cash travellers cheques. is located nearby.
194 P E S HA W A R • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
INFORMATION EATING
Home & Tribal Affairs Department Food Stalls...............................24 C3
(Civil Secretariat)....................1 A3 Habibi Restaurant....................25 C3
lonelyplanet.com
Ku
Khyber Medical Centre.............. 2 D4 Khan Klub..............................(see 18)
tch
Moneychangers..........................3 E3 20
ery
National Bank............................4 C4 SHOPPING
Rd
National Bank.............................5 E2 Carpet Shops.........................(see 23)
Police Station............................. 6 D3 Carpet Trunk(OldRd Kamran
GrandShops
Fidaus Hotel)..................................26 C3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Chowk
Khyber Rd To General Bus
All Saints Church....................... 7 D4 Stand (3km) TRANSPORT
Ander Shahar (Jewellers' Bazaar)..8 E3 Chitral Mayoon.......................27 D3
Bala Hisar Fort........................... 9 D2 SLEEPING Chitral Union.........................(see 17)
Cunningham Clocktower..........10 E3 Hotel Al-Haq.........................(see 21)
Ghor Khatri..............................11 F3 Hotel Spogmay........................17 C4
Mahabat Khan Mosque............12 E3 Khan Klub.................................18 F2
Meena Bazaar..........................13 E3 Park Inn Hotel..........................19 C3 9 18
5
Rd
Mochi Lara (Leather Bazaar).....14 E3 Pearl Continental Hotel............20 C1
ar
Rampur
dd
Peshawar Museum.................. 15 A4 Relax Inn.................................21 C4 Gate
Sa
Sabzi Mandi (Vegetable Rose Hotel...............................22 C3
Market)................................16 E3 Shan Hotel...............................23 C3
Sahibzada Abd
Po 12
l ic ra
e Pu
Rd
Rd rim
al 3 10 Ka
pit
24 8 Chowk
ul Qayyum Rd
Hos
Yadgar
14 16
23 Main
K hy Bazaar 13 Sikh
ber Haveli
19 26 Baza Kabuli 11
ar Gate
Kabuli
1 25
22 Gate 6 al Mandi
Shoba Qis 27 Pip
Chowk sa
Kha
ema Rd wa
ni
Cin
Fo 15
rt 21
Rd
Ba
jor
Rd
i R
d
ar
dd Old
Sa Rd City
ty 4 Rd
Ci 7 t ut
Rd h Yak
To Saddar
ut
ay So 17
Bazaar
ilw
Rd
(1km)
Ra
h
gari Rd urc
ab
Ch
D
2
P E S HA W A R • • Pe s h a w a r O l d C i t y 195
PROVINCE
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
196 P E S HA W A R • • T o u r s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
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DARK TOURISM?
The Smugglers’ Bazaar and Darra Adam Khel (p201) have long been part of the Peshawar tourist
experience, and feature on most local guides’ itineraries. After all, what other holiday destination
offers the chance to see blocks of opium and to fire a Kalashnikov? But while guns have long
been a part of Pashtun culture (drugs too, although to a much lesser extent), if you’re planning
a visit it’s worth spending a moment considering where the backhanders your guide pays to
the dealers are going.
There’s plenty of cannabis on offer in the bazaar, but the big money comes from opiates. The
heroin sold in Peshawar comes from Afghanistan, part of the trade that threatens the Afghan
state through institutional narco-corruption as well as funding the Taliban insurgency. The trade
provides 90% of Europe’s heroin, although the Smugglers’ Bazaar mainly serves Pakistan’s rapidly
growing population of heroin addicts. When we visited, one shopkeeper showed us bags of heroin
while ignoring the addicts squalidly smoking the drug on the carpets behind him. As we left we
pictured Pakistani tourists paying dealers to show them around the crack houses of London or
New York and wondered how different that would be.
The drug-funded insurgency is also bringing boom times for the gun shops. One dealer was
thrilled that the price of AK47s was going through the roof due in large part, he told us, by
radicals wanting to ‘do jihad’ in Afghanistan and Waziristan. Tourism doesn’t come much darker
than in Pakistan’s Tribal Areas.
music after evening prayers and into the referrals from travellers. Typical itineraries
night, a low-key but intimate version of the include Old City tours, the Smugglers’ Bazaar,
Sufi music of Lahore (p104). painting workshops for the brightly decorated
trucks and buses, and the Khyber Pass.
Smugglers’ Bazaar Unofficial guides often approach tourists
On the fringes of Peshawar as you head to- and offer trips to the Tribal Areas and even
wards the Khyber Pass is the Smugglers’ Bazaar cross-border trips into eastern Afghanistan
(Map p191), otherwise known as Karkhanai (including Tora Bora, the scene of a pitched
Bazaar. It thrives openly on the sale of goods battle in 2001 between the US army and Al-
imported through Pakistan for Afghanistan, Qaeda). Given the current security situation
then smuggled back through the Tribal Areas in that part of the country, such propositions
to avoid paying duty. Everything is available are foolish in the extreme.
here, from cut-price electronics to clothes and
stationery. It’s an enormous trade that costs SLEEPING
Pakistan millions of dollars annually in lost Budget
revenue – enough money to generate the bribes There are two main areas of interest to travel-
that allow the market to flourish. lers: Saddar Bazaar, convenient for shops and
Foreigners are banned from entering the far offices, and Khyber Bazaar, noisier but close to
end of the bazaar where guns and drugs are the fascinating Old City. Always check a cou-
openly on sale – a barrier prevents accidental ple of rooms, as this bracket has a lot of small,
entry (see the boxed text, above). An official gloomy and often grotty boxes on offer.
crackdown on the trade saw this part of the Sindbad Hotel (Map p192; %216961; Bajori Rd; s/
bazaar bulldozed in early 2007, but it was d Rs 120/220, with air-con Rs 120/220; a) A decent
quickly rebuilt – with the police officer lead- Saddar hotel that keeps you close to the ac-
ing the raid murdered a fortnight later. tion. Rooms are good for the price, although
It’s a 20-minute ride from Saddar on one of those at the back are lacking in natural light.
the colourful city buses; ask for ‘Karkhanai’. No restaurant, but you can send out for good
Don’t come here when it’s getting dark. room-service breakfasts. Hopefully they’ll
have replaced the missing hotel sign on the
TOURS front door by the time you’re there.
The PTDC office can advise on hiring official New Mehran Hotel (Map p192; %216961; Sunehri
guides. Several guides operate out of the Rose Masjid Rd; s/d/tr Rs 150/250/300) Firmly occupying the
Hotel (opposite) and get consistently good simple and male-orientated part of the budget
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels P E S HA W A R • • E a t i n g 197
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
spectrum, rooms here open onto a multilevel TV), and there’s a pleasant covered atrium
PROVINCE
courtyard that improves the airiness of the with easy chairs to relax in, as well as a good
place and keeps the street noise down. restaurant. Prices include breakfast.
Shan Hotel (Map p195; %216961; Sunehri Masjid Rd; Hotel Grand (Map p191; %5844357; University Rd;
s/d/tr Rs 150/250/300) Peshawar’s budget hotels s/d Rs 1200/1400) If you fancy neither the hustle
often offer you clean and gloomy, or grimy of Saddar nor the Old City, this hotel, closer
with lots of natural light. The small rooms at to the fancy shops (and a few restaurants) of
the Shan lean towards the former. University Rd, might be for you. The Grand’s
Hotel Al-Haq (Map p195; %2590949; Cinema Rd; s/d rooms are spacious and comfortable, with
Rs 150/250) Friendly management makes up for good fixtures and fittings.
the rooms in this hotel, on a noisy bazaar road
lined with car workshops. Rooms are fine but Top End
nothing special, which goes for most of the Pearl Continental Hotel (Map p195; %5276361; www
cluster of cheapies also along this road. .pchotels.com; Khyber Rd; s/d Rs 21,000/23,000; ais)
Relax Inn (Map p195; %2220241; Cinema Rd; s/d Peshawar’s big international hotel, flush with
Rs 150/250) The single rooms here are poky but businessmen on expense accounts. The rooms
the doubles are bearable. Rooms are pretty are comfortable and fully appointed at this
clean but check the bathrooms to be sure. level, while you’re further served by three
Hotel Spogmay (Map p195; % 2213255; Bajori restaurants, pool and a handful of shops.
Rd; s/d Rs 200/300, s/d with air-con Rs 550/800; a) A Discounts are worth asking for, but prices
lively budget choice, with a mixed bag of don’t include 23.6% tax.
rooms. See a few before checking in as some Khan Klub (Map p195; %2214802; khanklub@yahoo
rooms are very cramped while others have .com; New Rampur Gate; r Rs 30,000-50,000;a) A boutique
spluttering plumbing. hotel in the Old City, the Khan Klub is a lovely
Tourists Inn Motel (Map p192; %5279156; Saddar Rd; converted 18th-century haveli on four levels and
dm/d Rs 150/300) Once a backpackers’ institution, is something of a hidden jewel. Each of the eight
but listless management means this open-plan rooms is individually decorated to a high speci-
hotel has left its glory days far behind. Over- fication in traditional style with carved wood,
priced and grubby dorm beds are cramped carpets and embroideries, and themed towards
uncomfortably together, but seem spotless in a different precious stone (the Turquoise Room
comparison with the shared bathrooms and etc). Attentive staff can organise tours and the
kitchen. Very depressing. like. The ground-floor restaurant is well worth
Rose Hotel (Map p195; %250755; Shoba Chowk, Khyber a visit even if you’re not a guest.
Bazaar; d with/without TV from Rs 400/300; a) Deservedly
popular Old City option, this corner hotel has EATING
rooms in a variety of shapes and sizes, some Hong Kong Restaurant (Map p192; The Mall; mains
with air-con. Staff are helpful and can arrange Rs 80-445; hlunch & dinner) Peshawar’s first Chinese
guides and the restaurant has reasonable food. restaurant, Hong Kong has been serving up
Rooms on the side and back are cooler, as the noodles for several decades now. The menu
front of the hotel bakes in the sun. is a blockbuster read in itself, and the dishes
come quick and hot. The soups are good, while
Midrange the plates of chow mein are mountainous.
Park Inn Hotel (Map p195; %2560049; Shoba Chowk, Habibi Restaurant (Map p195; %2212223; Khyber
Khyber Bazaar; s/d Rs 700/1000; a) The exterior Bazaar; mains Rs 80-400; hlunch & dinner) A cut above
and lobby of this hotel are slightly glitzier most places you’ll find in the Old City, the
than the rooms here, but they’re still not bad rooftop restaurant at Habibi’s is made for
for the price. They are certainly spacious summer-evening dining. The menu is meat-
enough, though – many have their own heavy, with the smells of the barbecue wafting
lobby/sitting room, while bathrooms come through the air to work up your appetite.
with bathtubs. Shiraz Restaurant (Map p192; Saddar Rd; mains
Green’s Hotel (Map p192; %5270182; greensh@uni Rs 85-320; hlunch & dinner) There’s something of
com.net.pk; Saddar Rd; s/d Rs from 1150/1610; a) An a canteen atmosphere to this place, but you
old Peshawar favourite, Green’s is a reliably can fill up on a host of Pakistani dishes and its
comfortable place to lay your head. Rooms are specialty – barbecued chicken. Always busy,
clean and modern (with fridge and satellite with a quick turnover of tasty food. It’s an
198 P E S HA W A R • • S h o p p i n g lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
three times a week to Dubai, with twice-weekly (Rs 680, seven hours, two daily), and Mingora
PROVINCE
Aero Asia and Shaheen Air International con- (Rs 240, four hours, four daily).
nections. Budget airline Air Arabia flies twice a The chaotic general bus stand on the north
week to Sharjah, while Gulf Air, Emirates and side of GT Rd has colourful, uncomforta-
Qatar Airways are good for connections. ble, slow old buses to Rawalpindi (Rs 65),
as well as minibuses and Coasters heading
AIRLINE OFFICES in all directions. Leaving when full, plenti-
Aero Asia (Map p192; %5277289; Javaid Plaza, ful minibuses head for Rawalpindi (Rs 140,
Saddar Rd) 2½ hours), Mardan (Rs 40, one hour) and
Air Arabia (Map p192; %5250090; Dean’s Trade Centre, Mingora (Rs 75), Timargarha (Rs 130, four
Islamia Rd, Saddar) hours), Dir (Rs 180, six hours) and Chitral
Air Blue (Map p192; %5261602; Dean’s Trade Centre, (Rs 400, 12 hours).
Islamia Rd, Saddar) Chitral options from the Old City include
Emirates (Map p192; %5260777; Islamia Rd) Chitral Union (Map p195; %2210503; Spogmay Hotel,
Gulf Air (Map p192; %5213171; Arbab Rd) Bajorie Rd), which has an 8pm departure for
Qatar Airways (Map p192; %5275240; Saddar Rd) Rs 400. Chitral Mayoon (Map p195; %2215545; Sultan
Shaheen Air International (Map p192; %5278456; Hotel, Qissa Khawani) buses depart at 6.30pm and
Cantonment Plaza) 8.30pm for the same fare. This is an exhaust-
ing 12- to 14-hour trip that could be broken
Bus at Timargarha or Dir (the latter has better
Air-con buses have their own orderly stand, sleeping options – see p218).
opposite the general bus stand, on the south- Minibuses to Darra Adam Khel (Rs 25),
ern side of GT Rd about 2km east of the Old Kohat (Rs 35), Bannu and Dera Ismail Khan
City. Several bus companies here launch go from Sadabaha bus stand (Map p191), awk-
comfortable coaches to Lahore (Rs 310), wardly located south of the Old City.
Karachi (from Rs 750), Quetta (Rs 650) and
Dera Ismail Khan (Rs 160). Note that the Train
Quetta bus travels via Waziristan in the Tribal The train to Rawalpindi is as cheap as a mini-
Areas so foreigners may be forbidden from bus, and one way of avoiding the hair-raising
catching this. GT Rd. There are several trains departing each
Daewoo (%2651591; GT Rd) runs the most day, the most convenient are detailed in the
comfortable easterly services from its effi- Major Trains from Peshawar table, below. To
cient terminal, opposite the general bus stand: get a foreign student/tourist concession, take
Rawalpindi (Rs 200, 2½ hours, 12 daily), your passport to the Commercial Department
Lahore (Rs 570, 6½ hours, 13 daily), Multan at Cantonment train station.
Abbreviations:
A = Economy (seat) C = Air-conditioned lower (seat) E = Air-conditioned parlour
B = Economy (berth) D = Air-conditioned lower (berth)
200 A R O U N D P E S HA W A R • • T h e K h y b e r Pa s s lonelyplanet.com
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PROVINCE
AROUND PESHAWAR 0
0
20 km
12 miles
Takht-i-Bahi
Takht-i-Bahi Bazaar
Shabqadar Mardan
Kabul
To Rive
Kabul r
(140km) Charsadda
Torkham
Landi Kotal
Michni
Checkpoint
Khyber Pass
Kh
Zarai
ybe
Bazaar
Nowshera
Ali Masjid
way
Peshawar
Shahgai Fort Grand Trunk Rd
Jamrud
Fort To Islamabad
KHYBER AGENCY (112km)
Hayatabad PESHAWAR DIVISION
Kachagari
Refugee
Camp
Kohat
Frontier
Region
ORAKZAI AGENCY
Kohat Pass
Gauge
row Rai
Nar lwa
y
Kohat
KOHAT DIVISION
To Thal (60km);
Parachinar (150km) To Bannu (105km); To Rawalpindi
Dera Ismail Khan (130km)
(245km)
badly damaged in flash floods in June 2007 here you can see (depending on the level of
that also washed away several bridges. haze) the Durand Line, marked by large num-
A further 7km on is Landi Kotal, at 1200m. bers, as it snakes across the ridge marking
With the growth of the Smugglers’ Bazaar near the border, and the border-crossing town of
Peshawar, Landi Kotal has lost some of its sta- Torkham, 58km from Peshawar. While you’re
tus as ‘contraband city’, but the labyrinthine admiring the view, no doubt you will be as-
bazaar, to the left and downstairs of the road, sailed by young boys selling Afghani bank-
still houses several gun shops – surrounded by notes – a great souvenir (even if the exchange
shops selling more mundane vegetables, toys rate is outrageous).
or plastic buckets. Your armed escort, if he’s
worth his eventual tip, should let you wander Getting There & Away
around and have a cup of chai (tea). This is Foreigners aren’t allowed to take public trans-
also the home of the Khyber Rifles Officers’ port through the Khyber, so hiring a taxi is the
Mess, with a small museum chronicling the best option. As you’re travelling through the
Rifles’ history and its many famous visitors. Tribal Areas, you’ll need a permit from the
The last point for foreigners without an Home & Tribal Affairs Deptartment (Map p195; Civil
Afghanistan visa is Michni checkpoint. From Secretariat, 2nd fl, Saddar Rd, h9am-2pm, Mon-Sat) in
202 A R O U N D P E S HA W A R • • D a r r a A d a m K h e l lonelyplanet.com
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PROVINCE
Peshawar. You need your passport, one photo has thrived on its gun factories, turning out
and a photocopy of your passport’s ID page well-made replicas of everything from mus-
and Pakistan visa. There’s no fee, and the whole kets to Kalashnikovs.
process shouldn’t take more than 30 minutes. The simple adobe buildings hide miniature
Apply up to two days before travelling. Once factories, with smithies and lathes converting
you have the permit, take three photocopies to blocks of steel into pistols and automatic ri-
give up at the checkpoints through the pass. fles. The best smiths claim to be able to make
On the day of travel, take your permit with a working replica of a new gun in 10 days. The
your driver to the Khyber Political Agent’s Office rat-tat-tat of shoppers testing their purchases
(Map p192; Stadium Rd, h9am-2.30pm), where you’ll is commonplace. All men, of course – women
be issued with your armed escort. There’s no are nowhere to be seen – and you’re more
fee here either, but your escort will expect a likely to see a child carrying a box of bullets
tip of around Rs 200 at the end. than a schoolbook.
Any Peshawar guide can organise the half- Darra is officially out of bounds to foreign-
day trip. The PTDC office (p193) charges ers and the Home & Tribal Affairs office was
Rs 1800 (for up to four people), although you refusing to issue permits. However, Darra
still have to sort your own permits. If you ar- is on the main road to Kohat and for years
range everything yourself, you’ll haggle hard backpackers have made a game of jumping on
to find a return taxi for Rs 1500. a Kohat-bound bus and hopping off at Darra.
If you’re carrying on into Afghanistan, The khussadar (tribal guards) in Darra have
you’ll also need a photocopy of your Afghan instructions to send foreigners back on the
visa when getting your permit (which next bus. They are protecting you from the
should be for the border at Torkham rather obvious dangers of touring this lawless, drug-
than Michni). and gun-saturated region, where kidnapping
is a real risk and DVDs of jihadi beheadings
DARRA ADAM KHEL are sold openly in the bazaars. In reality, what
An otherwise unremarkable Pashtun village in happens is that you pay out several hundred
the Kohat Frontier Region of the Tribal Areas, rupees as a ‘fine’ and get to inspect the primi-
Darra Adam Khel (‘Darra’ for short) is famous tive workshops and (for a further payment)
for one thing: guns. For over a century, Darra fire off a few rounds, before being put on the
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A R O U N D P E S HA W A R • • K o h a t 203
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
next bus to Peshawar. In the current fractious of the Old City. Kohat’s general bus stand is
PROVINCE
climate on the frontier, however, we advise 5km south on the Bannu Rd. Coming from
against travelling under your own steam – al- Peshawar, many buses will drop you at Hangu
though guides in Peshawar use their contacts Chowk on the western fringe of town. Suzukis
to operate day tours to the town. For more on shuttle between here and the centre and the
the darker side of Peshawar’s tourist scene, see train station. Kohat is also linked by rail
the boxed text, p196. to Rawalpindi.
Avoid the temptation to buy anything,
especially the tiny pen guns. Outside tribal BANNU
lands there are stiff penalties for possession %0928 / pop 46,896
of unlicensed weapons. Like Kohat, Bannu is mainly an administrative
headquarters, army garrison and junction on
KOHAT the Peshawar to Quetta road. In the 1840s the
%0922 / pop 125,271 Sikhs, unable to conquer the feisty Bannuchis
This army town and divisional headquar- outright, periodically plundered the country-
ters south of Peshawar has a cantonment, a side. Sir Herbert Edwardes, then a 29-year-old
huge British-era fort (off limits), the mazar British ‘adviser’ to the Sikhs, so successfully
(shrine) of Sufi teacher Haji Bahadar Ali won the Bannuchis’ trust that he persuaded
Abdullah Shah (located east of Tehsil Gate), them to submit to the Sikhs, and later to join
and a noisy Pashtun bazaar. It’s terribly hot in defeating them. For some time the town
in summer and not especially interesting, was called Edwardesabad.
although men can cool off in a pool east of There are lots of guns in evidence, and
the fort. sometimes gunfire. The police will insist you
register with them if you stay the night – or
Sleeping & Eating just put you on the next bus out of town. They
There are only a few basic options, and it’s are located in the kucheri (law courts) area.
disputable whether they’ll accept foreigners in
the current climate. Green Hill Hotel (Thal Rd) has Sleeping & Eating
basic rooms and a restaurant. Hotel Nadria, In the Chai Bazaar, the rooms at the Hotel
south of the Green Hill on the edge of the ba- Sajjad are a step up from the spartan Farid
zaar, has similar rooms and air-con doubles. Hotel. At Lakki Gate there are more options:
There are also several cheap hotels facing the New Jan’s Hotel has a restaurant, and nearby
local bus yard. is the Three Star Hotel.
MARDAN 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
A B C D
To Takht-i-Bahi (15km);
Mingora (104km)
To Charsadda (32km);
1 Peshawar (68km)
12 11 To Shahbaz
Garhi (12km);
Swabi (39km)
13 14
Cantonment
3
Police La
Ka
lpa
5
ni
8
R
ive
ll
Katchery Ma
r
Chowk The
Stadium
ath
2
Footp
4 15 9
College 7
Chowk 6 10 Mosque 1
Ho
ti
Ba
Sh
za
INFORMATION am
ra
shi
Moneychangers.................................1 C2 Rd
National Bank of Pakistan...................2 B2
Net Café.............................................3 B1
To Nowshera (28km);
Police Station......................................4 B2 Grand Trunk Rd (28km)
Post Office.........................................5 B2
3 Telephone Exchange..........................6 B2 SLEEPING
Al-Idrees Hotel...................................9 B2 TRANSPORT
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Zaman Hotel....................................10 B2 Coasters to Peshawar.......................12 A1
Lutheran Church..............................(see 8) General Bus Stand............................13 A1
Mardan Museum...............................7 A2 EATING Minibus Stand..................................14 A1
Memorial Arch...................................8 C2 Cheap Restaurants............................11 A1 Tonga Stand.....................................15 B2
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
hour), Mingora (Rs 80, three hours) and
PROVINCE
(The Mall; admission free; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-
5.30pm Thu-Tue) has exhibits on Gandhara and Rawalpindi (Rs 90, three hours). Bigger buses
local ethnography. run to Peshawar and Rawalpindi for about
two-thirds of the price, while slightly more
Sleeping & Eating expensive Coasters go to Peshawar from a
Choices are limited; don’t come with too high stand west of the train line.
expectations. Tongas in Mardan cost around Rs 15. Day
Al-Idrees Hotel (%663339; Bank Rd; s/d Rs 150/250) hire for a taxi if you want to explore sites
Fairly decent rooms although a little on the further out is around Rs 2500 according to
gloomy side, with attached restaurant. your haggling skills.
Zaman Hotel (%663109; Bank Rd; s/d Rs 150/300)
The best accommodation option, with AROUND MARDAN
reasonably clean and airy rooms and an The Mardan Plain is rich in Buddhist and
attached restaurant. pre-Buddhist ruins, which, along with those
The general bus stand has plenty of even of Taxila and Lower Swat, provide a glimpse
drearier and cheaper options. You’ll also find of Gandhara’s prosperous and powerful old
lots of cheap restaurants and snack stalls in kingdoms. Many sites are simply unexcavated
the vicinity. mounds, while some are buried under later
development. Although all their treasures
Getting There & Around have gone to the museums, the best sites still
The general bus stand is the hub of all long- offer a feast for the imagination.
and short-distance transport. Minibuses go Most intact and impressive are the Buddhist
throughout the day to Takht-i-Bahi (Rs 10, monastery at Takht-i-Bahi; the Ashokan inscrip-
15 minutes), Shahbaz Garhi (Rs 10, 15 min- tions and stupa complexes of Shahbaz Garhi;
utes) and Charsadda (Rs 20, 30 minutes). and the monastery and stupas at Jamal Garhi –
Minibuses also go to Peshawar (R40s, one all within 15km of Mardan. The countryside
AROUND MARDAN 0
0
10 km
6 miles
A B C D
To Mingora (80km) 6
Babuzai
via Malakand Pass
Pirsai
1
Rustam
Jamal
Garhi
5
9
Takht-i-Bahi
Bazaar
2
7
Sahri Bahlol
(Monastery) Shahbaz
2 Garhi 8
Mardan Shewada
3 1
Yar Hussain
Swabi To Tarbela
Dam (10km)
To Nowshera;
To Charsadda (20km); Grand Trunk
Peshawar (55km) Road (10km)
is rugged in places and very hot in summer so path leads steeply from here to the monastery
bring sturdy shoes, sun protection and water. entrance. There’s no shelter at Takht-i-Bahi
The sites are accessible by public bus (and and summer days are scorching, so an early
the occasional long walk) from Mardan. If you start is recommended.
want to use Peshawar as a base, then Takht-i-
Bahi, Shahbaz Garhi and Jamal Garhi can be Shahbaz Garhi
covered in a long day-trip by hired car or taxi. This village, 13km east of Mardan, and once
Takht-i-Bahi is accessible as a long day-trip by a major trade crossroads, is best known for
public bus from Peshawar. its rock-cut Edicts of Ashoka. These inscriptions
in the Gandharan script were left all over the
Takht-i-Bahi Mauryan empire from India to Afghanistan in
This Buddhist monastery (admission Rs 50) on a com- the 3rd century BC, following Ashoka’s con-
manding rocky hill 15km northwest of Mardan version to Buddhism, urging his people to live
is by far NWFP’s stand-out Gandharan site, lives of piety and moderation. The edicts are
and compares more than favourably with under a small shelter on a hill a few hundred
Taxila near Islamabad. It thrived between the metres south of the village centre.
1st and 7th centuries AD before being aban- Shahbaz Garhi is also associated with the
doned, finally giving up its secrets to British Buddha himself, in his previous incarnation
archaeologists from 1907 to 1913, who also of Prince Visvantara. For giving away his
reconstructed parts of the site. kingdom’s magic elephant to a rival ruler, he
You enter through a courtyard that at one was banished and became a hermit in the sur-
time held at least 35 stupas and 30 little chap- rounding hills. Embracing the ascetic life, he
els with Buddha statues. A few statues have even gave his own children away, eventually
been left in situ, the rest are in the Peshawar being recognised for his piety and welcomed
Museum (p194). The walls would have been back into society.
plastered, but now reveal the amazing dry The cave where he lived is on Mekha Sanda,
stone walling techniques that constructed the about 1km north of Shahbaz Garhi on the
complex. Up the stairs to the south is the base road to Rustam. Past the ruins of a stupa and
of a huge stupa (the monastery’s most impor- monastery (worth visiting in themselves), a
tant stupa) and more chapels; to the north is thorny track to the right climbs for half an
a cloister surrounded by monks’ cells and a hour to the summit, with good views of the
refectory, kitchen and water tank. Beyond the plains. Visvantara’s cave is on the far side of a
central courtyard is a double row of sunken rise just north of here, although you may have
chambers, possibly for meditation. to enlist local help to find it.
The helpful chowkidar (caretaker), who has The ruins of Chanaka Dehri (White Elephant)
been here for over 30 years, speaks English well stupa and monastery are in a field a 1km-
and will happily guide you around for a gener- walk from Mekha Sanda out on a dirt track,
ous tip (around Rs 100), as well as sell copies of beneath some power lines.
a useful pamphlet (Rs 40) on the site. A minibus to Shahbaz Garhi from Mardan
Uphill from the monastery are the ruins takes 20 minutes and costs Rs 10.
of a sizable village. The views across the
plain, southwest to Peshawar and north into Jamal Garhi
Swat, are wonderful in the morning or late- The ruins of a monastery and a beautiful
afternoon light. courtyard of stupas are on a hilltop over-
Two or 3km from Takht-i-Bahi Bazaar, looking this village, 15km north of Mardan.
back towards Mardan, is Sahri Bahlol village, The view, including that of Takht-i-Bahi and
built on the ruins of another monastery. All Shahbaz Garhi, is especially grand at sunrise
that’s left are a few walls and water channels, or sunset.
five minutes’ walk off the road. To get here, catch a Katlang-bound bus
from Mardan and get off early; the summit is
GETTING THERE & AWAY a 45-minute walk from the village.
Minibuses run from Mardan to Takht-i-Bahi
Bazaar (Rs 10, 15 minutes). From a sign read- Kashmir Smats
ing ‘Archaeological Ruins’, drive, walk or This is a holy site to Hindus and Buddhists
catch a tonga east for 3km to a parking bay. A (its name means Kashmir Cave), though its
lonelyplanet.com S W AT D I S T R I C T 207
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
monastery, ritual bath and stupas have been isn’t much to see now. Best known is the
PROVINCE
decimated by treasure-hunters. The hike here 20m-high mound of Bala Hisar, said to be
takes a long day and is only for the fit and the citadel besieged by Alexander the Great
very adventurous. It’s also advisable to take in 327 BC, and the centre of the ancient
a guide. city. In the 2nd century BC the Bactrians
Take a bus north from Mardan past Jamal built their own city in a Greek-style grid at
Garhi to Katlang, and a pick-up on to Babuzai Shaikhan Dheri (Mound of the Sheikhs),
village. From Babuzai a rocky eastward road 1km to the northeast, also just a weedy
becomes a path that enters a narrow valley after hill now. Other ruins have all been built
1½ hours’ walking. A further steep 1½ hours’ over.
walking with fine views brings you to a concrete To get to the ruins from Charsadda town,
building; the complex is about half an hour on, go west across a tributary of the Swat River;
at about 2100m high. To reach the cave, head on the far side of the bridge, turn right up a
away from the monastery to the other side of track for about 1km to Bala Hisar. Shaikhan
the pass and double back – steps lead into the Dehri is just visible across the river.
cave (mind the bats). Legend says there’s a tun- Mardan-bound buses from Peshawar
nel from here all the way to Kashmir. (and most traffic to/from Swat) pass through
Charsadda.
Lukkay Gutte (Asota)
Off the road to Swabi, 40km east of Mardan,
is a collection of stone monoliths, possibly
an Aryan religious site from the 6th century
SWAT DISTRICT
BC. Of 30 original stone slabs, 21 remain in In a region full of dramatic scenery, Swat
various states of verticality. From Mardan stands out as a particularly beautiful corner
take a Swabi-bound bus to Shewada, and of northern Pakistan. A broad fertile valley
from there a Suzuki or tonga to Asota village. just touched by the monsoon, it stretches
The site is opposite a mosque, 200m past the nearly 200km from the Malakand Pass to the
Asota turn-off. high reaches of Swat Kohistan. A magnet for
hippies in the 1970s (‘the Switzerland of the
Hund East’), it’s often overlooked by today’s travel-
This is where Alexander the Great, Xuan lers, although not by domestic tourists who
Zang, Genghis Khan and Tamerlane most flock here every summer for the clean air and
probably crossed the Indus en route to fine landscapes.
India. It was the Hindu Shahi capital of Rich farmland fans out along the wide
Gandhara in the 9th and 10th centuries, and Swat River basin, centred on the twin towns
a Mughal stronghold against the Pashtuns. of Mingora and Saidu Sharif that together
The emperor Akbar ordered the construc- form Swat’s urban hub. It’s hardly the first
tion of the town’s impressive walls that still big town in Swat, as the valley was the site
mark out what is an otherwise anonymous of many previous civilisations, including the
village. Part of the ancient road remains, and Kushan kingdom of Gandhara and the Hindu
the river setting is as pretty as anywhere in Shahis, each of whom left behind a multitude
the area.
Take a bus from Mardan to Swabi and a
bus or minibus on to Amber. From there SWAT VALLEY: WARNING
Hund is a 4km walk or Suzuki ride. In November 2007, serious fighting broke
out in Swat between Islamist followers of
Charsadda the radical cleric Maulana Fazlullah and
Midway between Peshawar and Mardan on the Pakistan army. Over 20,000 troops
the road to Swat are the ruins of Pushkalavati were mobilised, and at least 200 militants
(Lotus City). It was capital of Gandhara killed. Although the valley was reportedly
from the Achaemenids to the Kushans, until cleared of violence as we went to press,
it was abandoned in favour of Peshawar in violent aftershocks are liable to continue
the 2nd century AD. for the foreseeable future, putting Swat out
The site has yielded a rich trove of pottery, of bounds to travellers.
jewellery and Greek-influenced art but there
Swat District
208 S W AT D I S T R I C T • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
To Chitral
Town (20km) Falaksair
Lake (5918m)
Mahodand Sumi
Drosh
Ushu Valley
Kumra
River
Chitral Matiltan Gabrial
District
y
Ushu
lle
t Valley
u
Va
h
r
Us
ive
tR
rot
Thal
Kalam
ro
Karang
Ut
Ut
Ziarat
Utrot
Gabral Richa
Lowari Pishmal
Pass Badwai
(3118m) Pass
Mankial
Sheringal (5726m)
Dir R
Kulalai
r
Rive
iver
Dir Kohistan
Chowa Da
District
er
ra
ko
Riv
j
P an
Dubair
at
Sw
Bahrain
Bar
r a Va l l
Dubair
Madya
Madyan n Valle
Va l l e y
y
Panjk
Pan
ey
Dir
District Swat
District
jkor
ora V
KKH
a River
alley
Dubair
Fatehpur Miandam Jijal
Khwazakhela
Alpurai Besham
Shangla Karora
Timargarha Nimogram Pass (2134m)
Ghaligai
Buddha Yakhtangai
Andan Jehanabad
Dehri Shankardara Pir Sar
Uch Stupa (2160m)
Manglaur Thakot
Katkala Malam Jabba Chakesar River
Mingora
Chungai
us
Saidu Sharif
KKH
Ind
Chakdara Barikot
Marghazar
Malakand Fort
Landakai Udegram
To Dargai Fort (8km); Karakar
Mardan (45km) Malakand Pass Pass
of historical sites to be discovered. North of mostly fine and hot with some rain in July
here, the mountains start to close in past and August.
Madyan, squeezing the river into a leaping
torrent, and forcing villages down to the banks HISTORY
or up the valley walls. The deodar-forested, Alexander the Great crossed the Swat River
snowcapped northern peaks are dominated with part of his army and, before turning
by 5918m Falaksair. The Pashtuns of the valley south, subdued the locals at what are now
floor become replaced by Kohistanis (liter- Barikot and Udegram. His successors ceded
ally ‘people of the mountains’) and nomadic Swat to the Mauryan dynasty. Under them
Gujars who tend flocks on the high pastures. and the later Kushan empire, Buddhism
It’s a popular area for hiking, and its streams thrived here and it was probably the birthplace
are thickly stocked with trout. of Vajrayana (Tantric Buddhism), which in the
Swat is accessible year-round, although it 7th century took root directly in Ladakh and
is snowbound from Bahrain northwards be- Tibet. Even as Buddhism was declining in the
tween the months of November and March rest of Gandhara it remained Swat’s prevailing
(even then transportation is occasionally pos- religion until the 15th century despite Hindu,
sible and some hotels are open). Summer is and then Muslim, arrivals.
lonelyplanet.com S W AT D I S T R I C T • • M i n g o r a & S a i d u S h a r i f 209
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
By the 16th century the Yusufzai Pashtuns, for the Malakand Division that also covers
PROVINCE
driven before the advancing Mughal army of Dir and Chitral.
Babur, were the valley’s dominant tribe. With This area is the base from which to see
them came missionaries, forcefully converting Lower Swat’s wealth of Buddhist and other
Kohistanis to Islam. historical sites (there’s a good museum
Swat remained stiffly independent and too), and to change buses for Upper Swat.
chafed against British control from the 19th Mingora’s noise, traffic and frenetic atmos-
century. Hostilities erupted into open war in phere may come as a shock if you’ve arrived
1897 with the Malakand Uprising, in which from the north.
a young Winston Churchill served as both
soldier and cub reporter. In 1926 Swat was Orientation
granted independent status under a Wali Mingora sits on the south bank of the Swat
(ruler), and kept Pakistan at partial arm’s River, straddling the main highway up the val-
length following Partition. The Wali’s sov- ley. The general bus stand is on the GT Rd west
ereignty was finally abolished in 1969 when of Sohrab Chowk, the main centre for accom-
Swat formally became part of NWFP. modation. The airport is about 8km northwest
of the bazaar. The main bazaar runs along GT
MINGORA & SAIDU SHARIF Rd and is permanently choked with traffic,
%0936 fumes and noise – shopping is more fun in the
In recent decades the two towns of Mingora narrow side lanes. The most interesting of these
and Saidu Sharif have merged into one an- are between New Rd and Bank Sq.
other to form a sprawling unit. Mingora is Saidu Sharif is south of Mingora, up the
the older market town with a heaving bazaar, cul-de-sac Marghazar Valley beside the Saidu
long-distance transport and most of the ho- River. The towns meet across the tributary
tels. Saidu Sharif is the traditional seat of Swat Jambil Khwar, though Saidu’s centre is 3km
power and the administrative headquarters south at the old royal compound.
MINGORA BAZAAR 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
To Airport To Upper
A (8km) B Swat C D
12
People
Chowk
Ne
1
wR
14 Rd
n
d
ya
ad
M
w INFORMATION
Ne Cinema
Friends Internet Club..........................1 B3
n Rd
Habib Bank......................................(see 4)
Green Internet Club......................................2 B2
Madya
Chowk
Main Post Office................................3 B2
Taj National Bank.....................................4 B2
3 Chowk UBL Bank.........................................(see 4)
New Rd
5
SLEEPING
8 Green Tower Hotel.............................5 B2
4
2 Hotel al-Hamra...................................6 B3
Bank Hotel D Papa......................................7 B3
2 Square
Hotel Rainbow....................................8 B2
17 Bazaar Main Swat Continental Hotel.......................9 B3
Bazaar Swat View Hotel...............................10 B3
EATING
To Peshawar Punjabi Saltish Restaurant.................11 B3
10 Nishat
(160km) Swat Garden Restaurant..................(see 9)
Chowk
Vegetable Market.............................12 B1
Sohrab 6 Gra
15
Chowk nd 7 Rd
Ha
T r u nk 13 SHOPPING
ji B
16
1 11 Suvastu Gallery.................................13 B3
ab
18
a
r
Saidu Sharif Rd
Rd
3 K hwa TRANSPORT
il
Jamb City Bus Stand...................................14 B1
Daewoo Bus Station.........................15 A3
r
wa
PIA ...................................................17 B2
To Saidu 9 Suzuki Yard (to Saidu Sharif).............18 B3
idu
Sharif (2km)
Sa
210 S W AT D I S T R I C T • • M i n g o r a & S a i d u S h a r i f lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
Ja
Post Office (Map p210; Marghazar Rd, Saidu Sharif;
mb
8 9
3
h9am-4pm Mon-Sat)
il
To Dir 4
(65km);
Khw
Peshawar Playing 13
(162km) Field
ar
u Sharif Rd
TELEPHONE
There are numerous public call offices (PCOs) 3 Khwar
12 10
u
Said
5 EATING
r
za
Sights
gh
2 7
Aq
ar
M
ba
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
BUTKARA NO 3 have the place bursting to capacity in sum-
PROVINCE
Further along the Jambil Valley is a partly mer. There are a couple of VIP, four-bedroom
reconstructed courtyard of enclosed stupas. suites with air-con for Rs 1000.
To get here, continue 500m past the turn-off Swat View Hotel (Map p209; %700889; Shah Rawan
to Butkara No 1 until you reach a culvert. Plaza, New Rd; s/d Rs 400/500; a) You get a mixed
Then climb five minutes up a gully to the bag at this hotel. Rooms are generously sized
right. It can be difficult to find, but there’s a and of fair quality, but although the staff
village on the way and someone from there are friendly they could do with putting the
can probably show you. broom about a bit more than they currently
do. Rooms at the back are the quietest, those
OTHER JAMBIL VALLEY SITES with air-con are overpriced at Rs 900.
At Panr (pronounced ‘pahn’) on the other Green Tower Hotel (Map p209; %762725; New Rd;
(east) side of Jambil Khwar are a stupa and s/d Rs 400/500) Fronted in green glass and sat on
monastery from the 1st to 5th centuries AD. a busy road, but with rooms far enough back
You’ll find a path and bridge about 1.5km from the traffic to cut down on noise. Rooms
beyond Butkara No 3, or you can head 3km are generously sized, with fairly new fixtures
out along Haji Baba Rd from Mingora Bazaar. and fittings.
Further out at Loebanr, on the west side, are an Hotel Al-Hamra (Map p209; %710966; GT Rd; s/d
Aryan graveyard from the 2nd to 1st millennia Rs 400/700) For the price, this hotel’s reach is
BC and a 3rd-to-4th-century-AD stupa. slightly beyond its grasp, but rooms are nev-
ertheless comfy and clean. The side street lo-
SAIDU STUPA (KANCHAI KANDA) cation cuts down on noise while still keeping
The remains of this impressive stupa and you near the heart of the action.
monastery are just up a track from the paved
road behind Central Hospital. MIDRANGE
PTDC Motel (Map p210; %727775; fax 724774; Aqba
SAIDU BABA Rd; s/d Rs 900/1500, s/d with air-con Rs 1500/2000; a)
This is the honorific nickname of the colour- Modern, spacious and comfortable, although
ful shrine to the Akhund of Swat, behind the destined to be unfavourably compared to the
Saidu Sharif police station and near the old Swat Serena almost opposite. In fact, it’s one
Wali’s residence. of the PTDC’s better outfits, with the added
bonus of a pleasant garden. The PTDC office
Sleeping is located here.
Many of the cheap hotels in Mingora Bazaar Swat Continental Hotel (Map p209; Saidu Sharif Rd;
are reluctant to take foreigners; you’ll find %711399; [email protected]; s/d Rs 1300/1600;
the places listed here are more welcoming. a) A good midrange option, with well-
Midrange hotels are often heavily booked in appointed and decent-sized rooms. The de-
the summer. cent hotel restaurant makes this a comfortable
option for the money.
BUDGET
In addition to hotels here, there is a host of TOP END
cheapies lurking around the main bus stand Swat Serena Hotel (Map p210; %711637; swat@serena
for those with tight budgets and relaxed .com.pk; Saidu Sharif Rd; s/d from Rs 5500/6300; ais)
attitudes to grubbiness. It should be no surprise that this is Swat’s
Hotel Rainbow (Map p209; %720573; New Rd; s/d plushest hotel, with immaculate modern
Rs 100/200) The simplest of the hotels that accept rooms decorated with a hint of Swati tradition.
foreigners; in fact, you get a very warm recep- The gardens and neatly tended lawns are fine
tion here. Rooms are simple, but good enough for relaxing, and there’s a nightly barbecue by
for the price (you get a toilet, but cold showers the pool and the swish Suvastu Restaurant
are shared). Down a quiet alley. (p212) for dining. Prices exclude tax.
Hotel D Papa (Map p209; %725362; GT Rd; s/d
Rs 300/450; a) There are big doubles here, well Eating
matched to the price. There’s also a slightly Punjabi Saltish Restaurant (Map p209; Said Sharif Rd;
musty atmosphere, although it doesn’t seem mains Rs 60-210) A clean, popular and inexpensive
to bother the staff or the guests, who usually restaurant just off the GT Rd. It serves the
212 S W AT D I S T R I C T • • M i n g o r a & S a i d u S h a r i f lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
RUINS & RELICS AROUND MINGORA
You could easily spend a week exploring Swat’s more obscure historical sites. Around 20 Buddhist
sites have been excavated, with others lost to treasure-hunters or the farmers’ plough, or yet to
be surveyed. Most can be reached from Mingora by public transport. For more information, ask
at the PTDC (p210) or the Swat Museum (p210).
Udegram
Around 6km southwest of Mingora, Udegram hosts the remains of the Buddhist town of Ora
(subdued by Alexander the Great), the mountainside citadel of the last Shahi raja, and a mosque
from the time of Mahmud of Ghazni.
Ora’s excavations are unremarkable in themselves, but climb from here for 30 minutes to the
ruins of the 11th-century Ghaznavid mosque, with its hall, washing pool and mihrab. A further
20 minutes brings you to the remarkable ruins of Raja Gira’s massive castle. The path leads up
a grand entry staircase to passages and battlements, where you can let your imagination go.
Scattered up the hill are more buildings. The valley view is regal, too.
On the way back down, in a grove surrounded by a vast graveyard, is a shrine to Pir Khushal
Baba, Mahmud of Ghazni’s general who died wresting the fort from Raja Gira.
Local Suzukis for Udegram leave from Sohrab Chowk in Mingora Bazaar.
Ghaligai Buddha
Seven kilometres southwest of Udegram is a meditating Buddha carved on a rock right by the
road. Once obviously very beautiful, it has been irreparably vandalised. Beside it is a stairway to
a shallow cave where other reliefs have been defaced beyond recognition.
Barikot
A straightforward minibus ride from Mingora, Barikot has several sights. A steep one-hour climb
from the village is Shahi Fort (visible from the road north of the village) with fantastic 360-degree
views over the local farmland. The stone walls on top are new; the strong, tight Shahi walls are
just below the summit on the north side.
Also within sight of the main road, 2km northeast of Barikot, is Shankardara (or Shingerdar)
Stupa, a huge and partially-restored 2nd-century stupa with shrubs growing from it like a toupee.
Just south of Barikot are the Italian excavations of what was once the fortified town of Bazira,
conquered by Alexander the Great in 327 BC.
Nimogram
This is a quite enchanting but hard-to-access site for which you really need your own vehicle.
Three large and numerous small stupas and an unexcavated monastery stand on a remote, windy
ridge west of the Swat River with tremendous views. From Barikot head northwest to Chungai
village, from where a jeep track winds for about 15km into the hills. The final steep stretch must
be done on foot. The stupas are excellently preserved and have tremendous views.
Jehanabad Buddha
A serene 4m sitting Buddha was carved in the 7th century on a rockface north of Mingora, on
the road to Malam Jabba. Take a Malam Jabba–bound pick-up from Mingora. Four kilometres
past Manglaur, a few hundred metres before the turning to Jehanabad village, is a footbridge
and a clear path up the other side of the valley, a 20-minute climb into the wooded hills. The
outcrop with the Buddha is visible from the road.
AROUND MINGORA & SAIDU SHARIF deluxe Rs 4500), with chairlift, and beginners and
Malam Jabba advanced slopes. At over 3000m, the views are
At the head of this valley, 45km northeast of spectacular up the Swat Valley and across to the
Mingora, is a ski resort and PTDC Motel (%0936- Karakorams. The PTDC in Saidu Sharif (p210)
755588; s/d chalet Rs 1350/1800, standard Rs 2000/2500, can advise on skiing in season (including
214 S W AT D I S T R I C T • • K h w a z a k h e l a & S h a n g l a Pa s s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
equipment hire), while minibuses go directly In the town’s bazaar you might find the
to Malam Jabba (ma-lam ja-ba) from the gen- luminous shawls embroidered in village work-
eral bus stand in Mingora. shops up the Madyan Khwar (Madyan Valley)
to the east.
Marghazar Valley & Mt Ilam
At Marghazar, a half-hour drive south of Saidu ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
Sharif, is a luxury hotel that was once the Wali’s The bazaar and bus yard are downstream
summer residence. From here a footpath climbs (but uphill) from the Swat River bridge. A
beside the Saidu Khwar through villages and police station is behind the bus yard. Spectrum
farmland to the top of Mt Ilam, said to be sa- Computer Club (Main Bazaar, Rs 20 per hr) has a dodgy
cred to ancient Greeks, Buddhists, Hindus and internet connection, while for souvenir shop-
even early Muslims. It’s at least a four-hour ping try the handicraft shops near Hotel Zarin
climb, and the PTDC advise going in a group Palace – there are several cheap eats also on
or with a local guide. Pick-ups go to Marghazar this stretch.
from near Nishat Chowk in Mingora.
ACTIVITIES
KHWAZAKHELA & SHANGLA PASS If you’re in the mood, climb to Kalagai village
The jeep track to the Shangla Pass through and the ridges on the east side of the valley.
the market town of Khwazakhela was once a A track begins near the Swat Holiday Hotel.
major transport route, until the construction There are great views one to two hours up.
of the Karakoram Highway diverted traffic A longer, flatter walk is up the south side
elsewhere. Today the town is a hub just for of Madyan Khwar, past the fish hatchery to
local transport. the roadhead at Shankur (1½ hours). From
The 2134m Shangla Pass has great views here cross the river on one of the two bridges
west to Lower Swat and east to the Pir Panjal and carry on until the valley splits; the left
Range bordering Kashmir. It’s about 3½ trail goes up to Vershigram, 2½ hours from
hours’ drive between Mingora and Besham, Madyan – here you’ll find fine views of Mt
and the pass is open year-round, except dur- Piazo Bandeh (the ‘Uninhabited Onion’). The
ing occasional heavy snows. Foreigners will route is clear, but take a guide if you plan
have to sign in at several police checkpoints, to go any further – it’s quite likely some of
so keep your passports accessible. the town youths will approach you out of
Although the road is poor, it’s incredibly curiosity anyway.
picturesque as it hugs the bottom of a narrow Just upstream from where Madyan Khwar
valley from Alpurai to Besham. Every turn joins the Swat River is a popular place to take
seems to present a new and ruggedly beautiful the air, with kids playing in the river and fami-
environment, with the river endlessly diverted lies walking in the early evening.
to irrigation channels and wooden mills in
between narrow green fields. SLEEPING & EATING
Madyan Guesthouse (%781866; murad@madyanguest
UPPER SWAT house.com; dm Rs 80; i) This simple budget op-
Madyan tion has a couple of cushion-littered dorms
%0946 facing onto a courtyard. It’s fairly basic (par-
Ascending the Swat Valley, the mountains ticularly the bathroom) but the friendly man-
slowly begin to close in until the town of agement makes up for this, with decent food
Madyan is forced to climb their slopes. on request.
Madyan is the point where the Pashtun Valley Caravan’s Guesthouse (%780090; caravansguest
gives way to Swat Kohistan, and it could hardly [email protected]; s/d Rs 200/400) Caravan’s has
be a nicer transition point. The surroundings three immaculately clean, nicely decorated
are wonderful – green wooded slopes, cool rooms with shared hot shower, a relaxing sit-
mountain breezes and the sound of the icy ting area, a book exchange and good food, all
tumbling river. It’s easy to see why Swat has of which conspire to make you want to stay
been a perennial tourist favourite. There’s lit- longer than you planned. The guesthouse is
tle to do but drink in the scenery and maybe poorly signed – ask at Fida’s shop in the ba-
rouse yourself to hike up above the town for zaar (well signed) from where the co-owner
the tremendous views. will direct you.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S W AT D I S T R I C T • • U p p e r S w a t 215
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
tained bungalows, complete with lounge and
PROVINCE
MADYAN 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
balconies over the river. Old-fashioned but
To Bahrain
A (8km); Kalam B not entirely without its charms.
(43km)
To Kalagai
Swat Holiday Hotel (%780165; s/d Rs 500/600) This
8
bright, modern hotel has a great location over-
1
looking the river, with each floor opening out
onto a wide terrace to catch the views and the
9 breeze. Rooms aren’t elaborate but decent
10 6
and well sized.
12 Kabul Afghan Restaurant (mains Rs 60) Near the
v er Zarin Palace, this place is typical of the non-
Ri
5
at hotel restaurants, offering tikka, kebabs and
Sw
Mad
ya
pilau in simple surroundings.
n Khw
ar
2
2 GETTING THERE & AWAY
1 To Chail;
Minibuses fill up and leave for Mingora
14 Shankur;
3 Vershigram
throughout the day (Rs 40, 90 minutes) from
11 the bus yard and main bazaar. In the op-
4
posite direction, pick-ups (Rs 10) and cars
7
13 Bazaar
(Rs 20) depart continuously to Bahrain, and
less frequently to Kalam (Rs 50).
INFORMATION
PCO...................................................1 B2
Post Office.........................................2 B2
Bahrain
3 Spectrum Computer Club...................3 B2 %0946
SLEEPING
A short drive from Madyan, the road squeezes
To Khwazakhela Caravan's Guesthouse........................4 B2 up to Bahrain as the valley walls become ever
(25km); Mingora Foreign Hotel.....................................5 A2
(55km)
Hotel Zarin Palace..............................6 B1
narrower and steeper. Bahrain is a village
Madyan Guesthouse...........................7 B3 that has burst into a tourist town, with hotels
Madyan Hotel....................................8 A1
Swat Holiday Hotel.............................9 B1
squeezed along the river and then stacked up
the hillside. There are plenty of handicraft
EATING
Kabul Afghan Restaurant..................10 B1 shops selling Swati woodwork.
SHOPPING
4 Fida's Shop.......................................11 B2 SLEEPING & EATING
Handicraft Shops...............................12 B1 As with everywhere in the Swat Valley, prices
TRANSPORT are seasonal. The high season is June through
Bus Yard, Pick-ups to Khwazakhela..13 A3 to August, with prices tumbling at other times
Transport to Mingora & Kalam.........14 B2
(although many hotels close for winter).
There’s little in the way of budget accom-
Hotel Zarin Palace (%780319; s/d Rs 350/500) The modation. The hotels below have restaurants,
large Zarin Palace has clean, pleasant doubles but in the main bazaar there are plenty of
at the quieter end of the bazaar. It’s one of places serving Pakistani standards and fresh
several similarly appointed and priced hotels local trout.
within a minutes’ walk. Rock Valley Hotel (%781115; s/d Rs 500/700) The
Foreign Hotel (% 780712; caravansguesthouse1 first hotel on the road from Madyan, this very
@yahoo.com; s/d Rs 500/800) A new hotel with a breezy hotel has lovely fresh rooms. Some
distinct red-tiled front, and the name sug- rooms have balconies, all the better to enjoy
gests that it gives foreigners what they want – views across the fields to the river.
apparently a surfeit of elaborately swagged Hotel Swiss Palace (%781503; s/d Rs 600/800) One
curtains and faux gilded ceilings. Get past of a cluster of identikit hotels at the top end
this and the rooms are fair value for the price, of the bazaar in a row along the river. Large,
clean and modern. decent and slightly bland rooms come with a
Madyan Hotel (%780031; s/d Rs 500/600, ste reasonable restaurant. For similar fare try the
Rs 1000/1200) An older hotel with a touch of the Hotels Marina, Swat Valley or Dimsum; on
British hill station about it. Standard rooms the opposite side of the street are the slightly
are fair, while the suites are almost self-con- cheaper Parbat and Deodar Hotels.
216 S W AT D I S T R I C T • • U p p e r S w a t Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
KB5 Motel (%780078; r Rs 600-900) The friendly (even the PTDC is closed) and food is limited
KB5 is on the main road at the southern end to the cheap restaurants in the bazaar.
of town, and decorated with a surfeit of wood
panelling. The rooms are small but verging ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
on plush. Some top-end hotels and most government
Deluxe Hotel (%780115; r Rs 1200) Overlooking offices are up on the western bluff, to which
the frothing junction of the Swat and Darel there are link roads from north and south
Rivers, so the sound of the water here is al- and a shorter footpath from 200m south of
ternately soothing and deafening. Rooms are the footbridge. Also topside are the police,
clean and pleasant, with discounts for rooms where you can get information on the local
on the road side of the hotel. The restaurant security situation, and the fisheries office,
is a good choice. where you can get a fishing licence. The bluff
also has good views up the Ushu Valley to
GETTING THERE & AWAY Falaksair (5918m).
Bahrain is 8km from Madyan. Pick-ups The PTDC office (%830014; PTDC Motel) can
(Rs 10) continually run between the bazaars. organise jeep hire and trekking guides.
Pick-ups and minibuses heading to/from
Kalam (34km) cost Rs 40. ACTIVITIES
Walks
Bahrain to Kalam Kalam has little intrinsic interest in itself, but
Half an hour north of Bahrain the great gap the area across the footbridge is worth explor-
in the eastern valley wall is Mankial Khwar, with ing. The grand mosque here has great wooden
a trail crossing to the Kandia Valley in Indus beams and pillars carved with scrollwork and
Kohistan. The trek is through fairly lawless quasi-Gandharan motifs – typical of hundreds
country, so a guide is essential. At Kulalai is a that were once everywhere in Swat but are now
riverside forestry resthouse. being replaced with modern concrete affairs.
After Kulalai the road gradually disinte- A half-day walk leads south from town,
grates (often impassable in winter). Twenty past the top-end hotels and then right (west)
minutes’ drive on, in the village of Pishmal, is up a jeep track into dense forest. The road
a mosque with a beautiful wooden minaret. curves to the right and continues up to a ridge
The snowy peak occasionally visible to the known as Hill Top, giving views of Mankial’s
east is the 5726m Mankial. peak. From the ridge, descend northwards to
cross the Desan Khwar next to a fine wooden
Kalam mosque and then meander northeast through
%0936 the pretty village of Jalban until you reach the
Kalam was an independent kingdom before PTDC Motel (a total of three hours).
it fell under the sway of Chitral in the 19th Another good walk follows a jeep track
century. It was given to Swat at Partition and 1km east of the bazaar up to Buyun Village
now sells itself as the ‘Switzerland of Pakistan’ (Green Top), atop the bluff on the opposite
to domestic tourists. At 2070m with stunning side of the Swat River (three hours). From
mountain scenery it’s certainly a competitor. here you could continue another hour up to
Tourism dominates the village and unfet- the meadows at Jag Banal.
tered development has crept away from the Check with the police or the PTDC
Swat River and onto the slopes. But its not too as to whether it is safe to do these walks
hard to escape the concrete and head into the unescorted.
wild and beautiful landscape that is Kalam’s
real draw. Bear in mind that Swat Kohistan is SLEEPING & EATING
a traditionally conservative and feudal place, Although hotels pack the main bazaar, capac-
and there are occasional hostilities towards ity is often tight in July and August, when
both foreigners and the hordes of Punjabi you’ll be lucky to find a room for less than
tourists that come here. The PTDC advises Rs 800. Prices outside these months can tum-
taking a guide if you want to go hiking, and ble by up to 50%, while between October and
can help organise this. June most places shut up shop altogether.
Outside summer, Kalam shuts down. Kalam’s hotels are uniformly midrange in
There’s then only a handful of hotels open style, service and rooms, most offering valley
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels D I R D I S T R I C T & T H E L O W A R I PA S S • • C h a k d a r a 217
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
views and all aimed squarely at Pakistani holi- we visited. There are forestry resthouses in
PROVINCE
daymakers, so you just pick one you like the Matiltan, Ushu, Utrot and Gabral; all can be
look of (and that has space). The Thames booked through the conservator of forests
Hotel, Pameer Hotel and Khyber Hotel are in Saidu Sharif with help from the PTDC in
fairly representative at around Rs 1200 for Kalam and Saidu Sharif.
a room, all at the south end of the bazaar.
The nearby Peshawar Hotel is a decent
cheaper option.
PTDC Motel (%830014; s/d standard Rs 1900/2300, huts
DIR DISTRICT & THE
Rs 3200/3650) Set in large grounds, with a main
block and some nice huts. A few overlanders
LOWARI PASS
have reported being able to camp here, making Wedged between the districts of Swat and
it a rare budget choice – if you have a tent. southern Chitral is Dir, little more than the
Hotel restaurants serve identikit watershed of the Panjkora River (a tributary
meals, with Pakistani, Chinese and a few of the Swat River). Once an independent state,
Continental dishes. Cheap eats can be found it is now part of Malakand Division. For to-
in the bazaar. day’s travellers, as for the British in the 19th
century, Dir is mostly a place to get through
GETTING THERE & AWAY on the way to Chitral.
Minibuses go from the northern end of the Dir’s people have been mostly Yusufzai
bazaar to Bahrain (Rs 30), Madyan (Rs 40) Pashtuns since the 16th century. In 1895 the
and Mingora (Rs 70, 2½ hours). Jeep drivers British forced their way through Dir and over
set fares between them, sample fares include the Lowari Pass to relieve the siege of Chitral,
Hill Top (Rs 400), Green Top (Rs 700), Lake but otherwise left the region to its own devices
Mahodand (Rs 1500) and Gabral (Rs 1200). until Partition. Dir and its nawab (prince)
remained largely autonomous until the 1960s,
Beyond Kalam when it was formally absorbed into Pakistan
Just north of Kalam the Utrot and Ushu Rivers as Dir district.
join to form the Swat River in a scenic region In 1950 a seasonal road was completed over
of steep forested mountains. The trekking the Lowari Pass into Chitral. A much-delayed
is said to be the best in Swat, but it’s unsafe tunnel through the pass is nearing completion
without a guide. Utrot Valley turns west and to offer year-round access to Chitral, almost
southwest. Near Utrot village, at 2220m and inevitably to Dir’s economic detriment.
16km from Kalam, Gabral Khwar enters from
the west. A road suitable for jeep runs to Utrot CHAKDARA
and 8km on to Gabral village. This is an old trading junction on the northern
Northeast up the friendlier Ushu Valley side of the Malakand Pass, where Alexander the
is Ushu village, 2290m high and 8km from Great forded the Swat River en route to India.
Kalam. The road is paved to Ushu and on Its strategic location has long been known – at
to Matiltan village. From here a jeep track nearby Damkot Hill archaeologists have found
leads to Lake Mahodand, about 25km from evidence of Gandharan Buddhist occupation
Kalam, with unobstructed views of Swat’s as well as a Hindu Shahi fort. Mughal emperor
highest peak, 5918m Falaksair. The road is Akbar garrisoned Chakdara in 1587 during
usually open from July to November. an unsuccessful attempt to subdue Swat. The
Check with the Kalam PTDC or police as attempt was repeated three centuries later
to the safety of trekking on the roads to Utrot by another great leader, the young Winston
and Ushu, and from Ushu to Lake Mahodand, Churchill. Nervous after the Chitral siege, in
and camping at the lake. If you go anywhere 1897 the British built the present bridge, fort
off the road you will probably require an and hilltop picket (named for Churchill). The
armed guide (possible to arrange through Pakistan army occupies the fort so Damkot
the Kalam PTDC). Hill is off limits to visitors.
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
Dir Hotel (%880048; [email protected]; s/d ‘budget’
PROVINCE
DIR TOWN 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
wing Rs 300/500, ‘standard’ wing Rs 600/800, ‘VIP’ wing
A B Rs 1200/1500) This former guesthouse of the
Nawab of Dir has three annexes enclosing
INFORMATION a small garden, with something to suit most
Moneychanger...................................1 A5
1 National Bank.....................................2 B5 budgets. The cheaper rooms sit over the shops,
Police Station......................................3 B5 face the road and have cold showers, with the
SLEEPING standard rooms larger, quieter and with hot
Abshar Hotel......................................4 A2
Dir Hotel.............................................5 B5
water. The VIP suites see you accommodated
Hotel Al-Manzer.................................6 B5 in grand colonial style, with high-ceilinged
Hotel Green Hills................................7 A2
PIA Hotel...........................................8 A4
rooms with deep chairs, fireplaces and even
a dressing room. The garden is shared by a
TRANSPORT
General Bus Stand..............................9 B4 couple of stately Siberian cranes.
Pick-ups to Timargarha....................10 B5 Hotel Green Hills (%881234; s/d Rs 600/1000) A
2 welcome recent addition to Dir’s sleeping
To PTDC Motel Panakot (2km);
Lowari Pass (28km) options, Green Hills has fairly simple but
comfy rooms and bathrooms with gallons of
4
hot water. Rooms at the back have balconies
7
with lovely views over the Dir River. The ex-
cellent attached River Breeze Restaurant is
aptly named.
D
ir
AROUND DIR
The Dir Hotel can arrange jeep trips up
5 the Panjkora Valley to the meadows of the
10
Kumrat Valley in Dir Kohistan, around a
5
3 five-hour drive. The walking here is lovely,
2
To Timargarha (71km); but you’ll need a tent, food, a local Kohistani
Mingora (140km);
Peshawar (240km) 6 guide and permission from the assist-
ant commissioner of Dir, all of which will
at the bottom are cheapest, eventual as- be arranged for about Rs 2000 per person
cending to Rs 500 rooms with carpet and per day, including transport. The region is
hot shower tribal and lawless and shouldn’t be visited
Abshar Hotel (%880735; s/d Rs 250/400) A good alone.
budget option in the north of town, the
friendly Abshar has an excellent riverside loca- LOWARI PASS
tion (abshar means riverside). Rooms are good The weather-beaten road climbs slowly from
value for the price, many with balconies. Dir to the forested Lowari Pass (3118m), from
220 C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
where it descends in a series of dizzyingly tight isolated region, connected to the rest of the
switchbacks towards Drosh on the Chitral country by just two roads over the 3118m
side. The road is highly sensitive to the sea- Lowari Pass from Dir and the 3810m Shandur
sons and is normally only open between June from Gilgit. Both roads are closed by snow
and October, although snow often persists in the winter, leaving just a highly weather-
quite late into the summer. Trucks crawl along dependent air service or a rough road that
the road in snail-like convoys, holding up briefly skirts into Afghan territory (which
impatient minibus drivers who are anxious to foreigners are forbidden from using) to stop
overtake on as many blind corners as they can. Chitral becoming totally cut off. The Lowari
In early and late summer you can sometimes Pass tunnel, if it’s ever completed, will im-
see nomadic Gujar families on the road with prove Chitral’s connections considerably.
their herds and belongings. Its isolated location means that Chitral (the
A tunnel is under construction at the foot name refers equally to the town and valley)
of the pass to improve year-round access to sees comparatively few tourists, which is a
Chitral. Progress has been on-off for years, great shame as it’s an area of amazing beauty.
but workers seemed hard at it when we passed The massif of Tirich Mir (7760m) dominates
them and we were repeatedly assured that the the entire lower valley, while the mountain
tunnel would be opening ‘soon’. We live in slopes are softened by orchards and terraced
hope, but still anticipate enjoying the moun- fields of wheat and barley as they descend
tain ride for a while longer yet. to the wide valley floor and the banks of the
Thirteen kilometres from the top of the pass grand Chitral River (known further upstream
is the village and checkpoint at Ziarat, where as the Mastuj River).
foreigners need to show their passports. One Hospitable people and the valley’s grandeur
kilometre beyond this is a popular truck stop – make Chitral tailor-made for trekking, while
a group of chaikhanas (teahouses) and stalls the Kalasha valleys offer a wholly unique view
where the food is cheap and the reception of Pakistan, in the remnants of an ancient
cheerful. There’s another checkpoint demand- pagan culture that welcomes sensitive visitors
ing a signature 7km on, and 9km further is the with open arms.
guesthouse Naghar Fort (Map p221; %0943-482007; s/d
Rs 1000/1400), overlooking a bend on the Chitral HISTORY
River and run by descendants of the former The Chitral Valley is the historic home to
rulers of Chitral. We doubt if many guest- two main ethnic groups, Ancient Chitralis
houses in the country have so grand a setting. and the Kalasha.
There are just four rooms with river views, all Ancient Chitralis, called Kho, prob-
meticulously clean and with bucket hot water ably came from what is now northeastern
on request. Breakfast (Rs 100) and lunch and Afghanistan. Local legends recall a golden age
dinner (Rs 250 each) are served in a large around the 8th century under a semimythical
dining room and there’s a comfortable lounge Buddhist king called Bahman, at around the
where you can browse the visitors books, same time a Chinese army temporarily oc-
which date back to 1936. Ask to be dropped cupied the valley. Smaller numbers of Kalasha
off at the junction, from where there’s a bridge have simultaneously occupied several small
and a stiff walk up to the fort. The surround- valleys, stretching into Afghanistan, where
ing countryside has heavenly walking through they followed their own religion and claimed
neighbouring villages and fields. to be descendants of Alexander the Great’s
Twelve kilometres from Naghar Fort is armies. Although Tamerlane subdued Chitral
Drosh (p222), midway point between the en route to Punjab in 1398, even he took a
Lowari Pass and Chitral town. beating from the tough Kalasha.
The end of the 19th century was the time
of biggest change for Chitral, as the region
CHITRAL DISTRICT was swept up in the Great Game (see p30).
The Afghan Kalasha were converted to Islam
The 350km-long Chitral Valley sits up in by swordpoint in 1893, and their homeland’s
Pakistan’s northwest corner, hemmed in by name changed from Kafiristan (‘Land of
the Hindukush mountains and sharing a the Infidels’) to Nuristan (‘Land of Light’).
long border with Afghanistan. It’s a relatively Simultaneously, the death of Chitral’s first
lonelyplanet.com C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • H i s t o r y 221
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
CHITRAL DISTRICT 0
0
50 km
30 miles
TAJIKISTAN r
ido Boroghil Pass
rr (3777m)
Co
an
kh
Wa
Lasht
USH Yashkist
DUK Go
l Darkot Pass
HIN
Rua
Sholkuch
AFGHANISTAN ol Sor Rich n
G hu Thui An
rk
h
Saraghrar Ric
Ya
Noshaq (7349m) Bang
(7492m) ol Shagram
h G Brep
Istor-o-nal Zani Pass iric
l
Rain
ho Go
(3840m) T
(7403m) Warijun Warkup Yasin
H Chapali
US Tu ri k Istaru
K Shagrom Parwak
Mastuj
N DU Uthul
Miragram Gilgit
Rive
r
HI Tirich Mir Koragh
Buni Gosht Gupis Gakuch
Arka ri ol
Borsat Teru
l
(7760m)
Go
G
Buni Zom
l
(6550m) Harchin
Go
Laspur
d
Dorah Pass
Go aba
Reshun Phander
rim
Murdon Lake
l
Gol t kho
Ka
Garam Chashma Lu
Muroi Sor Laspur Shandur Pass
j
stu
Chitral
l
Go
Izghor
Ma
Lasht
ol
G
Gol
Bir
(p229)
Sh
Drosh Kalam
Naghar Fort
Mirkhani a
k or NORTH-WEST
nj
Pa
l
FRONTIER
Go
H
Lowari Pass (3118m) PROVINCE KK
Swat
Arandu District
r
na
Dir
Ku
Dir District
The external boundaries of Pakistan
& India on this map have not been
authenticated and may not be correct.
To Peshawar Madyan
(185km)
mehtar (prince) sparked a particularly bloody Now in a tight spot, the garrison was eventu-
fight for succession that eventually drew in ally relieved after seven weeks when a relief
the expanding British empire. Afzal ul-Mulk force from Gilgit hauled cannons over the
(son of the first mehtar) seized the throne Shandur Pass in shoulder-high snow. This
and set about picking off his siblings in an epic trek allowed the British to draw atten-
age-old tradition of consolidating power. As tion away from their badly handled inter-
various brothers either fled to Gilgit or sent ference and celebrate a heroic campaign of
rival forces from exile in Afghanistan, the empire instead, with medals and knighthoods
British manoeuvred Afzal’s brother Nizam for all.
into power, only to see him bumped off by Following this debacle, Chitral was left
yet another relative. Deciding enough was largely to its own devices, although it was
enough, a detachment of 400 British soldiers transferred in the early 20th century from
was sent to occupy Chitral fort (the mehtar’s Gilgit to the newly formed NWFP. Princely
ancestral home), put a 12-year-old ul-Mulk on privileges continued well past Pakistan’s in-
the throne and attempt to take charge. dependence, until being formally abolished in
This at least unified the Chitralis, who im- 1972, although the ul-Mulk family still hold
mediately laid siege to the interfering British. much sway politically. The local passes were
222 C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
CHITRAL FESTIVALS
For Chitralis, the year’s big event is the Shandur Polo Festival (7–9 July) – four days of polo and
merrymaking at the top of the Shandur Pass, culminating in the celebrated match against Gilgit
(see the boxed text, p276). With many jeeps going to and fro, this is also the best time to cross
the pass. In the run-up to the festival there is polo almost every other day in Chitral.
The Chitral Festival (15–21 September) is a week-long celebration of local culture, with folk
music, poetry and competitions of all sorts ranging from archery and river-swimming to wrestling.
Ismailis in the north enjoy the spring festival of Nauroz on 21 March, while the Kalasha have
many of their own festivities (see the boxed text, p231).
In the far north near the Kurambar Pass on the Afghan border is the recently inaugurated
Jashan-i-Boroghil (15–17 July) centred on the local nomadic Wakhi culture. Although hard to
access – you need your own vehicle and camping equipment – it’s a fantastic occasion, with
music, crafts, buzkashi (a variant of polo) and even yak polo.
For more information on all Chitral’s festivals, visit the Chitral Association for Mountain Area
Tourism office (CAMAT; p224).
favoured smuggling routes for mujaheddin came from Badakhshan in Afghanistan a cen-
fighting the Soviets during the war in the tury ago to manufacture matchlock rifles for
1980s, and the sensitive Afghan border means the mehtar.
that the central government still keeps a fairly Sleeping options are thin in Drosh, so bas-
close eye on Chitral. ing yourself in Chitral or Naghar is prefer-
able. If you need to, you might end up at the
ACCOMMODATION basic Javed Palace (%80388; d Rs 200) by the bus
Aside from the hotels in the towns of the station. There are C&W resthouses in Drosh
Chitral Valley, the NWFP Construction & and Gahiret (20 minutes north of Drosh on
Works (C&W) resthouses are a viable and the main road), booked through the C&W
attractive option as they’re often in remote, assistant engineer (p224) in Chitral town.
peaceful settings. They usually consist of two
or four basic double rooms with bedding, Getting There & Away
with a chowkidar (caretaker) who’ll do at-cost Minibuses to Dir (Rs 160, four hours) depart
meals from what’s available (it’s better to bring Drosh in the mornings. Regular minibuses to
a few supplies of your own). If officials aren’t Chitral town are Rs 20, along with pick-ups
using them, you can stay at the visitors’ rate where you bump along in the back. Passenger
of Rs 400 a double. At the office of the assist- jeeps to Madaglasht cost Rs 60. You can also
ant engineer (p224) in Chitral town you can hire a pick-up or jeep here.
book C&W resthouses at Chitral town, Garam
Chashma, Birir Valley, Bumboret Valley, Buni, CHITRAL TOWN
Mastuj, Reshun and Drosh. You can also try %0943
the assistant engineer in Buni or Drosh. The administrative centre of Chitral Valley and
the old seat of the ruling mehtars, Chitral is a
DROSH & THE SHISHI VALLEY small, relaxed town. It’s possible to get stuck
Midway between the Lowari Pass and Chitral here for more than a few days taking in the
town is Drosh, headquarters of the Chitral scenery and the mountain air. It can feel like a
Scouts. First levied by the British in 1903, they long way from anywhere else in Pakistan, due
now guard the many passes into Afghanistan. in part to the effort involved in getting here
There’s nothing to see in Drosh itself, but over the high passes. Most people stop here to
it’s the starting point for visiting Shishi recharge their batteries before using it as a base
Gol, the side valley that yawns just north of to visit the Kalasha valleys, or to push on to the
Drosh. There’s a good jeep road and remote Shandur Pass or south to Peshawar.
treks over to other Chitral valleys. A guide Chitral’s attractions are modest yet still at-
is essential. tractive. The main focus is on the old fort on
Shishi Gol’s main village, Madaglasht, is the river that sheltered the besieged British
populated by Persian-speaking Tajiks who garrison in 1895, and the intricate Grand
lonelyplanet.com C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • C h i t r a l T o w n 223
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
CHITRAL TOWN 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
C
Public Bathhouses.........................13 B4 To Lower Chitral;
Na
34
h
Superintendent of Police..............14 C4 Kalasha Valleys;
Telephone Exchange....................15 C3 Lowari Pass (96km);
i
Dir (124km)
United Bank Limited (UBL)...........16 B3
t
r
a
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 25 l
Chitral Fort (Mehtars’ Palace).......17 C3
Naya Ba
21
PIA Chowk
Rd
7
13 14
rt
Fo
Shahi Bazaar
Fisheries Office
4 1 3
9
11 8
12
SLEEPING
Agha Jan Hotel & Restaurant.......21 B4
Chitral Gol Al-Farooq Hotel...........................22 B3
Chinar Inn....................................23 B5
36 Chitral City Tower........................24 B3
Hotel Dreamland..........................25 B3
23
Hotel Mountain View...................26 B3
Ataliq Bridge
Hotel Savana................................27 B3
zaar
5 Jang Ba 10 Hotel Tourist Lodge......................28 B3
29
Mountain Inn...............................29 B5
5
37 Pamir Riverside Inn......................30 D3
PTDC Chitral Motel......................31 B2
Tirich Mir View Hotel...................32 C3
To Protected Areas
Management Project r EATING
Chitral Gol National aa
az Pamir Riverside Inn Restaurant...(see 30)
Park Office (500m) qB
ali
At PTDC Chitral Motel Restaurant..(see 31)
18 Samosa, Pakora & Tikka stalls.......33 B3
Tirich Mir View Hotel-ea............(see 32)
19
TRANSPORT
Minibuses to Garam Chasma, Dir,
35
6 Timargarha, Peshawar, Gilgit....34 B2
Natco Office..............................(see 23)
PIA Booking Office.......................35 B6
Transport to Buni,Mastuj, Upper Chitral
and Gilgit.................................36 B5
Transport to Kalasha Valleys.........37 B5
224 C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • C h i t r a l T o w n lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
Mosque nearby. But the local life is even more TOURIST INFORMATION
interesting. The bazaar is a lively mix of tradi- Chitral Association for Mountain Area Tourism
tional and modern, although the conservative (CAMAT; %413540; [email protected]) Very
nature of society means that it’s possible to go helpful local tourist association providing framework for
from day to day without seeing a woman on sustainable and community-led tourism in Chitral, and
the streets (Chitralis are welcoming of foreign organising body for Chitral festivals. Can advise on guides,
women, however). In summer there are polo trips to the Kalasha valleys and trekking, and sells maps
matches several times a week, building up to and postcards.
the classic match with Gilgit for the Shandur C&W Assistant Engineer (%413406; off Fort Rd;
Cup in July. h9am-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri) For booking
Chitralis are mostly Kho-speaking, al- C&W resthouses throughout Chitral.
though there is a sizable Pashtun population. Divisional Forestry Office – Wildlife (DFO;
In addition, Afghans make up a significant %412101) Inquire here about resthouses in Chitral Gol
minority and operate many businesses, National Park. You’ll find this office on the east bank of the
from bakeries to transport. Given the prox- Chitral River.
imity of the border, vehicle smuggling is Protected Areas Management Project Chitral Gol
common here. National Park (Jang Bazaar Rd) The place to come to
organise a park-game watcher for trekking in Chitral Gol
Orientation National Park (see Gokshal An & Doni An, p342). Look for a
Chitral is virtually a one-street town. South of large white building 20 minutes’ walk uphill from Moun-
Ataliq Bridge the main road is called Ataliq tain Inn, 100m off the road.
Bazaar, where you’ll find the polo ground and PTDC office (%412683; Naya Bazaar) Located in the
the road to the Lowari Pass and Kalasha val- PTDC Chitral Motel.
leys. From the bridge to the junction of PIA
Chowk the road is called Shahi Bazaar. Shahi TRAVEL AGENCIES
Masjid Rd leads off this towards the Grand Chitral Travel Bureau (CTB; %412461; Jamia Masjid
Mosque. North of PIA Chowk is called Naya Rd) A good source of local information. It can arrange
Bazaar, which runs all the way to Chew Bridge treks, horseriding and jeep hire, plus has some camping
over the Chitral River. equipment for hire.
Transport leaves from several small yards Hindu Kush Heights (%413151; hotels@hindukush
on the main road according to the destina- .isb.sdnpk.org; Hotel Hindukush Heights) Out-of-town
tion – Ataliq Bazaar for the Kalasha valleys, location, but reliable operator good for trekking and climb-
Shahi Bazaar for Mastuj, and Naya Bazaar ing expeditions, as well as horseriding and jeep hire.
for all transport heading towards Peshawar. Hindukush Trails (%412581; info@hindukushtrails
The airport is 2km north of Chew Bridge, on .com; Mountain Inn) Organises jeep safaris and trekking,
the west bank. and manages the royal forts at Mastuj, Ayun and Naghar.
Information Sights
INTERNET ACCESS CHITRAL FORT & SHAHI MASJID
Don’t expect fast connections. The mehtars’ fort (Fort Rd) has a commanding
Aafaq Computer Centre (Shahi Bazaar; per hr Rs 40; position on the river. It remains the seat of
h8am-8pm) the mehtar’s descendents so you can’t enter it
Microworld Internet (Naya Bazaar; per hr Rs 40; without an invitation, although if you knock
h9am-8pm) on the main gate one of the chowkidars may let
you stick your head around the door to see the
MONEY old cannons in the courtyard. The entrance on
National Bank (Ataliq Bridge) Cashes travellers cheques. the southeast end is to the residential quarters,
Habib Bank (Fort Rd) while the one facing Shahi Bazaar was for the
royal guard. The most interesting side faces
POST the river and is best viewed from the far end
Post Office (Fort Rd) Poste restante is in the back room. of Naya Bazaar or from across the river. The
ornate building up the road southwest towards
TELEPHONE the police station was the royal courthouse. The
There are plentiful public call offices (PCOs) walls were once plastered, but its loss reveals
in Chitral’s bazaar. the sturdy stone-and-wood structure beneath.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • C h i t r a l T o w n 225
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
It has a few local ethnographic exhibits, but
PROVINCE
REGISTRATION & KALASHA VALLEYS is a little disappointing and keeps irregular
PERMITS hours (you may have to find someone to open
Because Chitral is a sensitive region near the it for you). It compares poorly with the excel-
Afghan border, you’re expected to register lent Kalasha museum (Kal’as’a Dur; p232)
on arrival with Chitral town’s superintend- in Bumboret.
ent of police (Map p223; Fort Rd; h 8am-
3pm) to obtain a Temporary Registration Sleeping
Form, irrespective of the usual foreigner- All midrange options, but only some budget
registration regulations or whether you’ve hotels, have hot running water. Even then,
registered elsewhere. Entering the main hot water is often restricted to certain times
building, the Foreigners’ Registration office of the morning or evening. Other places will
is about halfway down the corridor on your heat buckets of water for you, but if you’re in a
left. Registration takes around 10 minutes. cheapie you might prefer to use the hammams
You’ll need to show your Temporary (public bathhouses) near PIA Chowk.
Registration Form when you visit the
Kalasha valleys, and if you plan to spend BUDGET
more than a week there. You’ll also need Hotel Savana (%412294; off Jamia Masjid Rd; s/d/tr
a permit from the deputy commissioner’s Rs 100/200/300) The no-frills Savana is perfectly
office (Map p223), west of Ataliq Bridge in fine for the price, but isn’t going to win any
Chitral town. There’s no charge for these prizes. The courtyard is used as a car park,
forms and permits. which can make things noisy.
Al-Farooq Hotel (%412726; Naya Bazaar; dm/s/d
Rs 100/150/300) A popular budget choice, where
The fort’s water supply lies outside the walls, a rooms are packed in pretty tightly, but are
fact that caused considerable problems for the decent enough. Friendly management and a
British soldiers besieged here in 1895. travellers’ hints book are bonuses, alongside
To the west of the fort is the Shahi Masjid (Grand the terrace with views to Tirich Mir (although
Mosque), built by the ul-Mulks near the end of new building work opposite is doing its best
the 19th century. Its pinkish walls and white to spoil it).
onion dome make it one of north Pakistan’s Chitral City Tower (%412912; Jamia Masjid Rd; s/d
most distinctive mosques, particularly as its Rs 200/300) The rooms here are better than aver-
minarets frame Tirich Mir in the far distance. age for the price tag, with decent fixtures and
It’s usually fine to visit, but ask permission fittings. You might get tired of all the stairs,
before entering and avoid Friday prayers. but the reward is the roof terrace – with views
over Chitral in every direction, it’s ideal for
POLO chilling.
At the south end of town is one of Pakistan’s Agha Jan Hotel & Restaurant (%0300-9363268;
best polo grounds (Ataliq Bazaar; free), where practice PIA Chowk; s/d Rs 200/300) There are just five rooms
matches are held every few days from mid- at this place overlooking the busy junction,
March to early November, and real matches all new and clean with carpets and adequate
on weekends, always in the afternoon. On one bathrooms. The restaurant is good, but road
side is a covered VIP stand, where tourists noise might be an issue for some.
may sometimes sit (if there are no dignitaries Hotel Tourist Lodge (%412452; Jamia Masjid Rd;
in town). The best players are often drawn s/d/tr Rs 200/350/450) The friendly Tourist Lodge
from the Chitral Scouts and the police. The has simple rooms with cold showers in slightly
best times for polo are from late May onwards, dingy bathrooms. Reasonable, but probably
and in the run-up to the Shandur and Chitral not top of the list if you’re comparing with
festivals. The PTDC office or CAMAT will be others hotels nearby.
able to advise on upcoming matches. Hotel Dreamland (%412806; Naya Bazaar; s/d
Rs 250/350) The distinctively decorated foyer
CHITRAL MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY & leads to simple, characterless rooms with
ETHNOLOGY cold showers, though you can pay an extra
This small new museum (Ataliq Bazaar; free) is hundred a head for carpets and hot water to
poorly signed but next to the polo ground. cushion your stay a little more.
226 C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • C h i t r a l T o w n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
Chinar Inn (%412582; s/d Rs 300/400) An ex- Around 10km north of town, this hotel
cellent option, with a handful of rooms sets itself apart by more than just location.
looking onto a delightfully peaceful Owned by the former mehtar’s family, it’s
honeysuckle-ringed garden. Rooms are something of a boutique offering. Spacious
tidy and spacious, with warm showers and rooms are beautifully decorated in Chitrali
sit-down toilets. Located near Ataliq Bridge. style, complementing the tremendous moun-
The PTDC Chitral Motel and Pamir tain views around every corner. Service is
Riverside Inn sometimes allow overlanders immaculate, and the restaurant worth the ef-
to camp in their grounds. fort of getting here (call in advance). Popular
with tour groups, so reservations in summer
MIDRANGE are recommended. A jeep hire from town
Mountain Inn (%412581; fax 412668; Jang Bazaar; s/d/ste is Rs 500.
Rs 1200/1600/2000) A long time favourite with
tour groups, who enjoy the large shady gar- Eating
dens that the hotel encloses, along with the Nearly all the hotels have their own restau-
excellent service. Rooms are spacious and rant: basic curry and naan at the budget ho-
fronted by a wide veranda, with the wooden tels, and Chinese and Continental alongside
style faintly echoing Kalasha architecture. The Pakistani dishes at the midrange hotels. If
hotel also contains the offices of CAMAT and you’re not staying at a midrange hotel it’s
the Hindu Kush Trails tour operator. worth calling ahead to see if they’re open –
Tirich Mir View Hotel (%412911; terichmirview some restaurants close if there is no tour
@hotmail.com; Shahi Masjid Rd; s/d Rs 1550/1950) This group booked in. Recommended are the res-
hotel could be anywhere in Pakistan, with taurants at the Tirich Mir View Hotel (%412911;
modern but slightly characterless rooms. mains Rs 80-250; hdinner), the Pamir Riverside Inn
Until you step outside, that is. It’s the set- (%412525; buffet Rs 450; hdinner) and the PTDC
ting that clinches it – all rooms look out Chitral Motel (%412683; mains Rs 100-250; hlunch
over a wide terrace towards the river and & dinner). If you have your own transport,
(as the name suggests) the mountains be- the Hotel Hindukush Heights (%413151) has set
yond. The hotel restaurant is worth checking lunches (Rs 250) and dinners (Rs 450), but
out for nonguests, but doesn’t serve dinner is awkward to get to.
until 8pm. In various chaikhanas (teahouses) and
PTDC Chitral Motel (%412683; Naya Bazaar; s/d Afghan restaurants around PIA Chowk,
Rs 1500/2000) The rooms are rather soulless Ataliq Bridge and Naya Bazaar, you can sit
but clean and comfortable and there’s an cross-legged and eat qabli pilau (rice with
OK restaurant. meat and raisins), mutton curry or dhal for
Pamir Riverside Inn (%412525; fax 413365; pamirriver under Rs 60 a head. Street stalls sell freshly
[email protected]; Noghor Gardens; s/d Rs 2000/2500, cot- cooked samosas and pakoras (deep-fried veg-
tage Rs 1300-1500) This inn used to be the mehtars’ etables) for about Rs 2 an item, and there are
guesthouse and enjoys a peaceful, breezy riv- plenty of seasonal fruit stalls and bakeries
erside location below the fort. There are some (ask for tiki, pastries, sometimes stuffed with
quaint cottages and rooms in the larger new cheese or walnuts). Note that everything shuts
block, all comfortably appointed. There’s a in Chitral by around 9pm.
reasonable restaurant serving a Pakistani,
Chinese and Continental buffet in the eve- Shopping
nings (Rs 450). Prices exclude 5% tax. There are plenty of shops strung along Shahi
At the time of research a new midrange Bazaar selling Chitrali clothing, which makes
hotel, Hotel Tirich Mir View (Jami Masjid Rd), was a good souvenir. A local speciality is patti, a
under construction. Also, the well-regarded fine woollen cloth that’s made up into chogha
Chitral Guesthouse, 1.5km north of Chew robes, embroidered waistcoats or the clas-
Bridge on its east side, was undergoing sic pancake-shaped pakol cap (which should
extensive renovation. cost less than Rs 200). Afghan-run handi-
craft shops in the bazaar offer a selection
TOP END of rugs, jewellery and carved wood from
Hotel Hindukush Heights (%413151; hotels@hindu Nuristan. A few places also sell secondhand
kush.isb.sdnpk.org.pk; Gankorini; s/d Rs 4000/6000; a) trekking gear.
lonelyplanet.com C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • A r o u n d C h i t r a l T o w n 227
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Getting There & Away The road is paved from Chitral town to
PROVINCE
AIR Buni, wide and graded to Sor Laspur, nar-
The PIA booking office (%412963; Ataliq Bazaar; row and jeep-only from there over the pass
h9am-1pm & 2-4.30pm) is south of the polo to Phander, with ongoing construction work
ground. Two flights depart for Peshawar each likely to cause delays. From Phander the road
morning, one at 7.45am and one at 11am is mostly paved, apart from sections under
(Rs 3750, 45 minutes), plus there’s a daily repair. The Shandur is normally open from
early morning flight to Islamabad (Rs 4000, June to October. Foreigners must sign in at
80 minutes). Departures are weather-depend- several police posts. By bike, Chitral to Gilgit
ent as the plane flies through the Lowari Pass, takes about eight days, with the Chitral side
with groundings rare in summer but frequent being the steepest.
in winter. Reconfirm at the PIA office the For details of what to see and where to stay
morning before departure. If the flight is can- along the way, see Upper Chitral (p233) and
celled, you must return to the office to get the Karakoram Highway’s Punial, Ishkoman,
listed on the next flight. Yasin & Ghizar (p282).
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
KALASHA VALLEYS 0
0
4 km
2 miles
Chitral Gol To Lutkho
National Park Valley To Mastuj
(105km)
Chimirsan Ghari
Uc
hu
sh
Ro Gol Uchusht
t
di Gol
Ju
Urghuch Dok gh
or
Baltum (3510 m) Gol
Jaja
hG
Ch
ol
itra
C hi m
l River
Shekhanandeh
i r sa
Ur
Rum
bur Gol
gh
Palario
nG
uc
Gol Urghuch
h
ol
Rawelik
(Revalik) Sundargah
Traghdhur Sajigor Balanguru
Naharjeo Batet
(Narajau) Grom
Kundyak An Kalashgrum
(2855 m)
Rum
bur
Lachorsin
Gomenah Va
lle
Nala y Police Checkpoint
l gah Shigala
Acho Passuwala
Gogalog
Ay
Gorasin
un
Gol Ayun
Donson Pass Ghariet
(2970 m)
ley
Brun
Val
Anish
Batrik t
ore
mb
Bu
Don
son
ol
Nala Krakal
tG
ie
Maskor Pass
ar
Gh
m
Bu
Bachay Madir Birir Police Post Nojhbiu
Va
Chitra
Pish
l Riv
er
excellent place to learn more about all aspects disrespecting Kalasha holy sites and burial
of Kalasha society. grounds, and the theft of cultural artefacts.
The valleys, wooded with deodar and holly Kalasha women who go proudly unveiled
oak, are small, rugged and beautiful. Rumbur have been hassled by domestic visitors who
and Birir are especially narrow, and the solid consider them ‘loose’.
houses of wood, stone and mud climb the
hillsides, the roof of each serving as the ve- Getting There & Around
randa of the next. The ground floors serve There are no villages called Rumbur,
as stables and storerooms; quarters upstairs Bumboret or Birir. Rather, passenger jeeps
typically include a windowless, sooty kitchen- drive to a particular valley, dropping pas-
cum-living room with a hearth and smoke sengers off at successive villages (or hotels).
hole in the middle and a door onto a veranda. Jeeps from Chitral to Bumboret depart at
Bumboret has the most spectacular views of least twice a day, and daily to Rumbur (both
these valleys, with great walks. Rs 50, 2½ hours), travelling via the (Muslim)
The Kalasha cultivate wheat, millet, maize gateway village of Ayun on the Chitral River.
and lentils, or herd goats. Sweet grapes, For more information see p227. About 8km
from gnarled vines growing up into the from Ayun, the valley forks, left to Bumboret
trees, are made into a sticky, fiery wine. and right to Rumbur. There’s a police check-
Mulberries, apricots, apples and plums are post here, where you’ll need to show your
plentiful, as are walnuts (a major protein Chitral registration (see the boxed text, p225)
source). There’s little meat beyond the rare and pay the Rs 200 toll levied on all visitors.
slaughtered goat. This permits you to visit all three valleys. The
Pakistanis seem to have an ambivalent approach roads are rough but very scenic,
attitude towards the Kalasha. While tour- with the Bumboret road often looking over
ist posters proudly picture Kalasha girls in fields and streams, while the Rumbur road
traditional costume as proof of Pakistan’s di- appears hewn straight from the sheer walls
versity, the valleys are under continual threat of the valley.
of cultural erosion. Mosques are increasingly Transport to Birir is less frequent. The
present in every valley and most businesses mouth of Birir Valley is at Gahiret, about
are run by incoming Muslims or recent 7km south of Ayun. Catch any Drosh-bound
converts (only in Rumbur are Kalasha still vehicle from Chitral and get off at the Gahiret
in the majority). Even the influx of tourism bridge over the Chitral River. Passenger jeeps
has proved a mixed bag, with many tourists sometimes leave from here (or Ayun itself),
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
KALASHA FESTIVALS
The Kalasha take their festivals seriously, which invariably involve intricate religious ceremo-
nies, feasts and dancing. There may be adua-naat (day dancing) or raadt-naat (night dancing),
and some may be closed to outsiders. Each valley has its own style, though usually the older
men stand in the centre, taking turns chanting old legends – or just chatting. Accompanied by
drums, the women dance round them, their arms around one another’s waists and shoulders
in spinning twos and threes or trance-like encircling lines. The dates alter between the valleys
and may not be fixed until the last minute, often depending on harvest or other work, so ask
locally for the exact dates.
Uchal
The summer festival, celebrating the wheat and barley harvests, is a big tourist draw. It may
include night dancing every few days in successive villages in Bumboret and Rumbur, from
mid-June to mid-August.
Phool
This is held only in Birir, for three or four days in late September or early October. Night danc-
ing is held in various villages, and day dancing on the last day. It marks the walnut and grape
harvests and the end of winemaking, though its origins concern the return of shepherds from
the high pastures.
Chaumos
This solstice festival is probably the biggest for the Kalasha, with visiting, feasting and night
dancing for around 10 days starting in mid-December. During this time the demi-god Balomain
is believed to pass through the valley collecting prayers to take back to the creator, Dezau. In
Bumboret it’s closed to Muslims. Foreigners expecting to take part must arrive early to be ritu-
ally purified (menstruating women are forbidden from participating) and may need to buy their
own goat for sacrifice.
otherwise it’s a 2½-hour walk into the val- architecture. There are innumerable pretty
ley. The Birir police post is at Guru village; day walks to be done in Rumbur, from fol-
beyond here the road peters out. lowing the river up to Sajigor, an onjesta
When leaving the Kalasha valleys, it’s wise site to flocks and shepherds that is also used
to let your guesthouse know the day before for ritual sacrifices (only men can visit), to
travel, as they will be able to advise on what exploring the irrigation canals through the
time the passenger jeeps will pass by your fields and the many small side valleys.
front door so you can be ready to flag them
down. Jeeps tend to leave for Chitral in the SLEEPING & EATING
early morning. Accommodation is available in the villages
One-way jeep hire from Chitral costs of Grom and Balanguru, where you’ll find
Rs 1800 (Bumboret) and Rs 1600 (Rumbur the two best Kalasha guesthouses in all the
or Birir). A jeep from Bumboret to Rumbur valleys. The hotels listed here are in the order
costs around Rs 1400 return. they appear when you arrive in town.
Kalash Home Guest House ([email protected];
Rumbur Valley Grom; r full board Rs 300, r without bathroom Rs 250) The
The most traditional of the valleys, Rumbur first guesthouse on the road into Grom, where
is around 70% Kalasha. The two main vil- a warm welcome is guaranteed. Kalasha en-
lages of Grom and Balanguru sit either side of gineer Khan has added several bright and
a pretty river; the latter has the most local clean guestrooms onto his house and is a
232 C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • K a l a s h a Va l l e y s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
great source of information on local culture. most interest to visitors is the complete re-
Kalasha food is served and you often eat construction of a traditional house from Brun
with the family. The views from the terrace village and the life-sized wooden Gandau
are fantastic. funerary statues. These were once erected
Kalash Grom Guesthouse (Grom; s/d Rs 100/200) On to celebrate the life of important figures, a
a right turn off the main road before Grom practice that has died out due to expense. Few
proper is a Kalasha house with two simple remain in situ, as antique dealers have stolen
rooms and traditional food on offer. many in the last 30 years. There is also a scale
Kalash Indigenous Guest House (Grom; s/d/tr model of a jestakhana (temple) that Kalasha
Rs 150/300/450) A nice garden, but rooms are staff guiding you around may use to explain
a little dreary. It’s aimed largely towards the ins and outs of onjesta and pragata.
Pakistani tourists.
Saifullah Jan’s Guest House (Balanguru; s with full SLEEPING
board Rs 300) Just over the bridge in Balanguru Hotels and guesthouses are listed in the order
and excellently run by Kalasha spokesman in which they appear when arriving in the
Saifullah Jan. There is a selection of good valley from Chitral, starting in Anish village.
rooms (those in the newer ‘block’ have bath- The further up you go, the better the views.
rooms), a pleasant garden and tasty local Kalasha-owned places tend to be slightly off
food. As with the Kalash Home Guest House the main road.
(above), a stay here easily slips into several PTDC Motel (% 0943-412683; Anish; s/d from
days more than originally intended. Rs 800/1000) Standard off-the-peg PTDC fare,
There are small shops in Grom where you with comfy rooms and adequate service.
can buy biscuits and a few basic supplies. Hotel Alexander Post (%0943-412806; Brun; s/d Rs
600/1000) A good midrange option – a twee mix
Bumboret Valley of Swiss cottage and traditional Kalasha archi-
Bumboret is the grandest and most developed tecture. Rates tumble upon further enquiries
of the three valleys. It has numerous hotels and there’s a pleasant garden.
and attracts the most tourists, although the Jinnah Kalash (Anish; s/d Rs 100/200) This Kalasha-
valley’s community is now about two-thirds owned hotel has fine rooms and a veranda
Muslim. Major villages with accommodation with superb views. Good value, and camping
are Anish, Brun, Batrik and Krakal. At the is possible.
upper end of the valley is the Nuristani set- Kalash House (Brun; r Rs 150) Uphill near the
tlement of Sheikhanandeh, where there is a Kal’as’a Dur, this sits near the similarly priced
mosque with a lovely wooden minaret. The Kalash View and Kalash Galaxy Guesthouses,
walks here, along the river and up to the pas- all simple Kalasha-run places in traditional
tures, are fantastic. From Anish to Krakal is style. Basic but fun, with local food on offer.
about an hour’s walk. Foreigners Tourist Inn (Brun; s/d Rs 500/600) Once
a forestry resthouse, this place is a favourite
SIGHTS with tour groups and has a large restaurant.
Kal’as’a Dur Rooms are spacious and clean and hot water
This cultural Centre (Brun; admission Rs 100, camera Rs can be arranged.
100; h9am-5pm, closed Wed) is an essential stop Frontier Hotel & Restaurant (Brun; s/d Rs 150/200)
for any visitor to the Kalasha valleys. Co- The Frontier’s rooms come with cold show-
funded by the Greek government and built as ers and are poky, though there’s a nice sitting
a showpiece of Kalasha architecture, it holds a area and staff will heat up a bucket of hot
museum and library, as well as a school, meet- water for you.
ing hall and clinic. Profits go towards health Ishpata Inn (Brun; dm/s/d Rs 150/200/400) On a rise
and education projects, as well as promoting above the road, the inn’s rooms are good but
Kalasha culture. need airing. Popular, with a nice garden and
The museum is full of cultural artefacts terrace balcony looking over the valley.
from clothes and jewellery to weapons and Peace Hotel (Batrik; s/d Rs 150/200) A friendly
kitchenware. One exhibit even invites you to Muslim-owned hotel with clean, comfort-
learn the Kalasha alphabet of 37 letters, de- able rooms with great views. Kalasha food is
rived by linguists to help record the Kalasha’s on offer, and hot water is provided in buckets.
fast-disappearing oral culture. Perhaps of Good value but lacking a garden.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • U p p e r C h i t r a l 233
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
Kalash Hotel (Krakal; camp sites Rs 25, dm/s/d Shandur Pass, offers any range of accommo-
PROVINCE
Rs 30/500/200) Kalasha-owned hotel with tradi- dation (and shops), although larger villages
tional food and shop. Rooms are simple but such as Koragh and Buni have cheap inns,
the welcome is very warm. and there are a few government resthouses.
Alexandra Hotel (Krakal; s/d 200/400) A handful A sleeping bag can also prove useful, as can
of decent rooms with a large and shady gar- candles and extra food to supplement thin
den for lounging. There’s a small shop and offerings along the road.
good food. North of Chitral town the river changes
Sissoyak Kalasha Hotel, Camping & Restaurant name to the Mastuj River and, beyond Mastuj
(Krakal; d Rs 200) The last decent sleeping option village, to the Yarkhun River. Turikho Gol
in the valley, but worth waiting for. Kalasha- is called Rich (pronounced ‘reech’) in its
owned, with basic rooms and a lovely orchard upper reaches.
garden. Helpful management.
Chitral Town to Buni
Birir Valley A 30-minute drive north of Chitral town, Golen
The least visited of the three valleys, Birir has Gol yawns to the east. Jeep-wallahs often stop in
the lowest proportion of traditional Kalasha Muroi at the Shandur Hotel, a small restaurant
and its Kalasha culture is under threat from with charpoys (simple beds made of ropes
conversion. The valley has good trekking and a wooden frame). Thirty minutes on at
potential, but there’s little public transport Reshun, a town seemingly made of red mud,
here. Major villages are Guru, Aspar, Bishala is a two-room C&W resthouse, booked with
and Biyo. the assistant engineer (p224) in Chitral. Here,
in a side action to the 1895 Siege of Chitral, a
SLEEPING & EATING Chitrali ambush near the mouth of Turikho
All the valley’s accommodation is in Guru. Gol wiped out about 100 Kashmiri and Sikh
As with the other valleys, you eat where troops and their British officers. The village of
you stay. Kalash Guest House (full board per person Koragh, 10 minutes past Reshun, has two basic
Rs 250) is one of the first houses after crossing inns, the Koragh Golden Inn Hotel and the
the footbridge into the village, and the only Kohistan Inn, at the east end of the bazaar.
Kalasha-owned option. The rooms and sepa- Buni, half an hour further north and across
rate cold shower are kept clean and the family the river by bridge, has a few cheap hotels and
here can organise local cultural and trekking an excellent C&W resthouse with a meadow
guides. Other choices are the Insaf Hotel (d outside for camping. Turn right at the top
with shared bathroom Rs 200) or the Paradise Hotel of the bazaar to find the C&W office. Out of
(s/d/tr Rs 100/200/300), on the south bank of the sight to the southeast is 6550m Buni Zom,
river after the bridge. Both are pretty basic. the highest peak in the Hindu Raj, Chitral’s
There’s also a C&W resthouse in Guru, and eastern mountains. Locals recommend the
another out on the Chitral road by Gahiret strenuous walk up Buni Gol, behind the town,
footbridge, bookable through the assistant to meadows at Shupishun.
engineer (p224) in Chitral town.
Turikho Gol
UPPER CHITRAL This is the ancient heartland of the Kho people
As you head north from Chitral town the and their language, Khowar. Mind-bending
mountains become increasingly spectacu- views of the highest giants of the Hindukush
lar, easily rivalling anything you might find and Hindu Raj are gained from the 3840m
along the Karakoram Highway. The valley is Zani Pass dividing the lower Turikho Gol
initially carpeted in fields and orchards, with from Tirich Gol, the route to the base of Tirich
each village clinging to the slopes that grow Mir. The crossing can be done in a day and
ever-more grand. The northern valleys form you could even go up for a day trip (three
a gnarled Y, forking left into Turikho Gol and hours, 8km) if the weather is clear. The trek
right to Yarkhun Gol. The welcome is warm starts from Uthul (Uthool; 2640m), north and
in the mainly Ismaili villages and women lead off the main valley road from Warijun, the
more public lives. local transport hub.
Travel is rough, mostly by passenger Occasional jeeps follow the separate road
jeep. Only Mastuj, a key stop en route to the up the right (east) side of Turikho Gol to
234 C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • U p p e r C h i t r a l Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
Istaru, Warkup, Rain (ra-een) and Shagram Tourist Guesthouse, this offers similar fare.
villages. There are no formal places to stay It’s reasonably basic, but clean and friendly.
in Uthul or Tirich Gol. Shagram, in Turikho Hotel Hindu Kush Heights (%0943-413151; fax
Gol 6km past the mouth of Tirich Gol, has a 413153; s/d Rs 3400/4200) Next to Mastuj fort on
two-room C&W resthouse. the outskirts of the village, this is Chitral dis-
trict’s plushest hotel. Half a dozen chalets are
Mastuj set among shady grounds, nicely done out in
From Buni the paved road degenerates into wood, with verandas, real tubs in the bath-
a jeep track and continues eastwards up the rooms and old colonial photos on the walls –
Mastuj Valley, revealing awesome views of lovely. Food on request.
Buni Zom. Parwak could serve as a base to PTDC Motel Mastuj (% 0943-486034; s/d
explore the glacial valleys spilling down from Rs 1200/1500) This comfortable hotel with char-
the Buni massif. acterless though functional rooms has a de-
The village of Mastuj (2400m) is three cent restaurant. It’s set just outside the village
hours (110km) from Chitral town along a and has gorgeous vistas, but don’t believe the
very rough 4km side road. It’s a good base signs saying ‘PTDC ½km’ at the bottom of the
to break the journey between Chitral and bazaar – it’s more than twice that distance.
Gilgit, and you could easily lose time doing Mastuj also has a comfortable two-room
some lovely day walks in the fields and C&W resthouse, bookable in Chitral. At
side valleys here, always under the snowy Brook Laspur there is the basic Shandur Hotel
gaze of Tirich Mir. You must sign in with (dm/d Rs 50/200) and ultra-basic Qraqrum Hotel &
the police (at the bottom of the bazaar) if Restaurant (dm Rs 40) if you need to stay to catch
staying overnight. transport to Shandur. At Sor Laspur is the
Until 1880 (when the mehtar of Chitral took Shandoor Hotel (dm/d Rs 50/200).
it) Mastuj was the ‘capital’ of the Kushwaqt
state stretching eastwards into Ghizar. A GETTING THERE & AWAY
British garrison confined here during the 1895 There are a couple of jeeps every morning
siege was rescued by the column that crossed between Chitral town and Mastuj (Rs 130, five
the Shandur Pass. The old royal fort stands hours), as well as daily rides to Buni (Rs 45,
next to the Hindu Kush Heights Hotel. 2½ hours). Transport is less frequent to Sor
From the south, Laspur Gol enters Yarkhun Laspur and the Yarkhun Valley. To get over
Gol. Up this canyon are the villages of Gosht the Shandur Pass, Brook Laspur has the best
(6km from the Mastuj turn-off), Harchin transport links (Rs 60 from the petrol pumps
(14km from Gosht), Brook Laspur (2km from at the Mastuj turn-off), or arrange transport
Gosht) and Sor Laspur (sometimes called just from Chitral.
Laspur, 6km from Brook Laspur), and the
road to Shandur Pass, two to three hours by Yarkhun Gol
jeep (42km) from Mastuj. From Mastuj, the Yarkhun Gol stretches
100km northeast, almost to the tip of Chitral.
SLEEPING Along this grand valley lay an important
Mastuj Tourist Guesthouse (%0943-486151; s/d/tr branch of the ancient Silk Road, between
Rs 100/200/300; i) A comfy and welcoming place Kashgar and Afghanistan via the Wakhan
wrapped around a small walled garden, with a corridor and the 3777m Broghil (or Boroghil)
handful of carpeted rooms and cold showers. Pass. The Broghil was also one of several
Food is cooked to order. Hard to miss as it’s passes that stoked British fears of a Russian
the first guesthouse as you drive into Mastuj. invasion in the late 19th century.
The hotel also owns a couple of jeeps that run You’ll need to be self-sufficient to get by in
daily to Chitral. this remote but inspiring landscape. The best
Foreigner Tourist Paradise (%0933-486008; dm/ time to come here is for the Jashan-i-Boroghil
s/d Rs 70/100/200) Signed opposite the Mastuj festival in July (see p222).
© Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com 235
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
235
Karakoram Highway
A thin ribbon of asphalt strikes north from near Islamabad and leaves the modern capital and
the dusty Punjab plains far behind. As it weaves through sparse green hills, the first wrinkles
of mountain-building in this geological ‘collision zone’, this unassuming road gives little hint
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
as to what lies ahead. This is the high road to China, the Karakoram Highway (KKH), which
was blasted and bulldozed through an intractable landscape of raging rivers, deep ravines and
precipitous peaks in the 1960s and ’70s. It is a 1200km marvel of engineering and a symbolic
collaboration between Pakistan and China. It is also a magnet for adventure-seekers.
The KKH unites the plains of Pakistan with erstwhile independent mountain kingdoms and
connects South Asia with West and Central Asia. It follows a branch of that ancient network of
trade routes known as the Silk Road, and one of its tricks is time travel. The KKH takes you to
where Buddhism spread to China and Tibet, to the colourful bazaar of Kashgar that remains more
than just a memory of a Silk Road oasis, and to the intrigues of the 19th-century Great Game.
It has also brought the 21st century to the fabled valley of Hunza, and fume-belching trucks
and minibuses have now mostly displaced donkeys and camels as the caravans of trade.
As it traverses northern Pakistan and enters western China, via the 4730m Khunjerab Pass,
the KKH navigates the highest concentration of soaring peaks and long glaciers in the world.
Intrepid travellers are delivered to some of the most awe-inspiring and challenging trekking
they are ever likely to encounter. And for some, this is where the real adventure starts.
HIGHLIGHTS
Unwinding in Karimabad (p299), the heart of
the fabled valley of Hunza and home to the
Kashgar
700-year-old mountain-top Baltit Fort (p300)
Testing your courage and sense of balance on
the Two Bridges walk near the peaceful village
of Passu (p311)
CHINA
Marvelling at the mallet-wielding mayhem
and horsemanship at a polo tournament in
Gilgit (p275) Khunjerab
Pass
Bartering in the colourful bazaars of
Kashgar (p324), former Silk Road oasis Passu
Baltit Fort
and legendary market town Karimabad
Gilgit
Exploring the trails of Baltistan (p284) and
PAKISTAN
beyond, where the Karakoram ruptures Baltistan
from the earth’s crust in an unequalled
display of high peaks and twisting glaciers
Crossing the Khunjerab Pass (p317), a
geographical and cultural watershed, in
a modern replay of an ancient passage
between empires past
236 K A R A K O R A M H I G H W AY lonelyplanet.com
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY 0
0
100 km
60 miles
P
The external boundaries of Pakistan
am
& India on this map have not been Yengisar
authenticated and may not be correct. Ghez
ir
KKH
Bulunkul CHINA
Kongur
(7719m)
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Kara
314 Kul
Muztagh Ata
(7546m)
TAJIKISTAN
Tashkurgan
XINJIANG
AUTONOMOUS
REGION
Davdar
AFGHANISTAN
Boroghil Pass Pirali
(3777m)
Lasht Zood Khun Dih KKH
Khunjerab
HINDUKUSH Kampir Dior Pass
(7168m)
See Gilgit Region Map (p264) Dakrot Pass Afiyatabad (Sost) Qarun Koh
(7164m)
Ultar II
(7388m) Passu Shimshal
Gulmit Khunjerab
Yasin Karimabad
Buni Mastuj National
Gupis Aliabad Ganish Park See Gojal & Khunjerab
Tirich Mir Teru Chalt Minapin
(7760m) Sor Borsat Sherqila Ghulmet
Pass Map (p308)
K
Phander ar G K2
A
Shandur Rakaposhi l
Central A (8611m)
R
Pass (7788m)
za
NORTHERN Ri Karakoram K
O
Bi
Sassi Park AM
Gl
Gl
See Indus Kohistan Baltoro
Map (p257) Bunji
Askole Masherbrum
Drosh Paiju (7821m)
Kalam Shatial Indus r RA
ve NG
Sazin Ri Kachura Shigar E
Lowari Pass H Lake Hushe
Chilas KK Astor Skardu Baltistan
Dir Dasu Satpara Khaplu
Madyan Nanga Gol
Komila Parbat
Lake
Babusar
Pass (8125m) See Baltistan Map (p285)
Shangla 35 Pattan
Khwazakhela Pass Burzil
Timargarha (2134m) Besham Naran Pass Deosai
Mingora Banna Plains
trol
Saidu Thakot Kaghan Line Con
Sharif of
Balakot In
Malakand N O R T H - W E S T du
sR
KK
FRONTIER ive
H
ir Ra
Naoshera
an
d
Tru
P ge
Moto
nk HIMACHAL
an
n
ja
PRADESH
Rd
l
lonelyplanet.com K A R A K O R A M H I G H W AY • • H i s t o r y 237
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
THE SILK ROAD & THE FLOWERING OF
BUDDHISM Buddhism left an extraordinary record
Buddhism spread throughout the northern in western China and northern Pakistan
subcontinent under the charismatic (and that can be seen while travelling along the
last) Mauryan king, Ashoka (272–232 BC), KKH: the cave frescoes of San Xian outside
whose excesses in war led to his conversion Kashgar; the petroglyphs at Shatial, Chilas
and active patronage of the new philoso- and Ganish; and the bas-relief Buddhas near
phy. Soon after Ashoka’s death, however, the Gilgit and Skardu.
region descended into chaos with several
invasions from Central Asia and a recur- THE ADVENT OF ISLAM & THE DECLINE OF
ring Hindu backlash. Meanwhile, the Han THE SILK ROAD
dynasty in China was pushing its frontiers Although an Arab expedition reached Kashgar
west and south over a growing network of in the 8th century, the earliest conversions to
trade routes that later came to be called the Islam in the Tarim Basin were by rulers of the
Silk Road. Qarakhan dynasty in the 12th century. Today
From the early Han capital of Chang’an most non-Chinese there are Sunni Muslims.
(now Xian), a line of oases skirted north Almost simultaneously with the 8th-century
and south around the Taklamakan Desert to Central Asia explorations, an Arab naval
Kashgar. From there, tracks ran west across force arrived at the mouth of the Indus, but
the Pamir and Turkestan (Central Asia) to likewise left little religious imprint. It wasn’t
Persia (Iran), Iraq and the Mediterranean, until the 11th century that Islam began to
and south across the Karakoram to Kashmir. establish itself in this region. Muslim Turkic
Caravans went west with porcelain, silk, tea, raiders from Afghanistan, led by the warlord
spices and seeds of peach and orange, and Mahmud of Ghazni, battered the Indus Valley
brought back wool, gold, ivory, jewels and in the early 11th century. Conversion to Islam
European delicacies such as figs and walnuts – was widespread, for pragmatic as much as
as well as new ideas. spiritual reasons.
Bandits from Mongolia, Tibet and the little In the early 13th century the Mongol ar-
Karakoram state of Hunza made these expedi- mies of Genghis Khan had subdued Central
tions dangerous, and Han emperors spent vast Asia and had began raiding south into the
subcontinent. With the largest contiguous over Russia’s presence in the region. The
land empire in history, cleared of bandits new political agent was Captain Algernon
and boundaries by the Mongols, the Silk Durand, who believed that to counter foreign
Road enjoyed a last burst of activity into the influence in India all its frontier tribes would
14th century. Europeans, now forced to take eventually have to be subjugated or bought
note of Asian power, also took an interest in off. He carried on his own foreign policy in
Asia; Marco Polo made (or made up) his epic the area, invading Hunza in 1891 and trying
journeys during this time. The subsequent unsuccessfully to subdue Chilas in 1892–93.
eclipse of the Silk Road has been variously In 1935 Britain leased back the entire Agency
attributed to the arrival of Islam, the col- from Kashmir and raised a local militia, the
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
ished. Now they’re all governed by the 24- the Khunjerab Pass was opened to official
member Northern Areas Council, headed by traffic and cross-border trade. On 1 May 1986
a federally appointed chief executive. The gov- the Khunjerab Pass and the road to Kashgar
ernment is generous with development money were opened to tourism.
and levies no direct taxes, but Northerners The workforce in Pakistan at any one time
cannot, for example, vote in national elec- was about 15,000 Pakistani soldiers and be-
tions. Having fought to join Pakistan, many tween 9000 and 20,000 Chinese, working
now feel excluded. separately. Landslides, savage summer and
Nevertheless, the region has acquired many winter conditions, and accidents claimed 400
of the political features of a province. Northern to 500 lives on the Pakistani side of the bor-
Areas Council members are all locally elected der, roughly one for every 1.5km of roadway
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
and can now campaign on the basis of political (though some claim the Chinese took away
party affiliation. They in turn elect the deputy many more dead than they admitted). The
chief executive, with the rank of a minister of highest toll was in Indus Kohistan.
state in Pakistan. On his/her advice, the chief Few statistics are available about work on
executive appoints four advisers with the rank the Chinese side. Crews there were a mixture
of provincial ministers. of soldiers, convicts and paid volunteers with
nothing but picks and shovels, hauling rocks
THE KARAKORAM HIGHWAY and dirt on shoulder-poles.
Following its invasion of Tibet in 1950, China Maintenance is a huge and endless job. The
occupied parts of Ladakh, Baltistan and the mountains continually try to reclaim the road,
upper Shimshal Valley in the mid-1950s. All assisted by earthquakes, encroaching glaciers
traffic across the border stopped. While the and the Karakoram’s typical crumbling slopes.
Chinese border with Indian-held Kashmir Rockfalls and floods are routine, and travel is
is still in dispute today, a thaw in China– inherently unpredictable.
Pakistan relations in 1964 led to a border
agreement, China’s return of 2000 sq km of People
territory, and talk of linking the two countries The KKH region’s invaders and traders have
by road. left behind a kaleidoscopic array of peoples
In 1966 the two countries embarked on one that have evolved distinct languages, cus-
of the biggest engineering projects since the toms and gene pools in their largely isolated
Pyramids: a two-lane, 1200km road across valleys. This variety is one of the things that
some of the highest mountains in the world, makes KKH travel so absorbing. Nearly
the Pamir and the Karakoram, from Kashgar everybody is Muslim, but in an equally di-
in China to Havelian in Pakistan. Much of the verse patchwork of Sunni, Shiite, Ismaili and
KKH would traverse terrain that until then Nurbakhshi variants.
had barely allowed a donkey track. It was to Pashto-speaking Pashtuns inhabit the KKH
be 20 years before it was fully open. well down into Hazara, along with speakers of
Pakistan had already started a road of its Hindko and other Punjabi dialects. Kohistanis
own in 1960, the 400km Indus Valley Rd are thought to be Shins, descendants of in-
between Swat and Gilgit. This and a road vaders from the lower Indus Valley at least
north from Havelian were completed in 1968 1000 years ago, who were converted to Islam
and linked by a bridge at Thakot. Between by Pashtun crusaders from the 14th century
then and 1973, Pakistani crews worked north onwards. Kohistani speech is a mixture of
from the Indus, while the Chinese cut a road Shina, Pashto, Urdu and Persian.
over the Khunjerab Pass to Gulmit, as well Gilgit, the region’s historical trading hub,
as north from the Khunjerab to Kashgar. is a melting pot of peoples from all over
All of the nearly 100 bridges encoun- Central and South Asia that sometimes boils
tered from the Khunjerab to Thakot were over with ethnic and religious tensions. Its
originally Chinese-built. dominant language is Shina, also spoken
Chinese workers departed in early 1979, around Nanga Parbat and down the Indus
and later that year the KKH was declared to Chilas and beyond. Up the catchments of
complete in Pakistan. In August 1982 the the Gilgit and Ghizar Rivers is a mixture of
Highway was formally inaugurated, the NA Burusho, Shina speakers and Pashtuns. Some
were opened to tourism as far as Passu, and Chitralis are here too, speaking Khowar, an
240 K A R A K O R A M H I G H W AY • • C l i m a t e lonelyplanet.com
THE GUJARS
Gujars (pronounced gu-jr), descended from the landless poor of lowland Pakistan and India, eke
out an existence as nomadic herders. In May and June they drive their cows, yaks, sheep or goats
into the high meadows of the lower NA (roughly as far north as Gilgit) and southern North-West
Frontier Province (NWFP). They sell a few animals when they need to buy supplies and then de-
scend in September and October. They are a common sight on and off the KKH at these times,
moving beside the road in long files of animals and people, or camped outside towns. They winter
on marginal land, often on the dry riverbeds, seldom associating with local people.
Though Sunni Muslims, they are considered low-caste by many, even in nominally caste-free
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Pakistan. They rarely marry non-Gujars. Gujar women do not observe purdah (the wearing of a veil),
and on the KKH south of Gilgit they may be the only women whose faces you ever glimpse. Gujars
near Gilgit speak Shina, while those closer to the Shandur Pass and in Chitral speak Khowar.
Indic language. In the other direction from extremely arid all year long, with a trace of
Gilgit is Baltistan, whose mainly Tibetan peo- rain in summer.
ple speak a classical form of Tibetan. From Gilgit to Kashgar, winter is long and
The people of Gojal are mainly Tajiks, origi- cold (often well below freezing), especially in
nally from Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor January and February, and snow closes many
and speaking Wakhi, a form of Persian. high passes, including the Khunjerab.
The Burusho of southern Gojal, the Hunza
Valley and Upper Nagyr speak Burushaski, a National Parks
language whose origins continue to mystify The KKH runs through the Khunjerab
scholars. The people of Lower Nagyr have National Park and you will have to pay a
similar roots but speak mostly Shina, the lan- US$4 fee (or the equivalent in rupees) for the
guage of Gilgit. privilege. For details on this park’s founding
Uyghurs are predominant from the and conservation credentials, as well as back-
Khunjerab Pass to Kashgar, plus there are ground to other parks in the region, see p68.
large rural populations of Tajiks, Kyrgyz and
Kazakhs, each sharing ancestry, language and Language
customs with communities in Central Asia, Travelling along the KKH is like passing
Iran and (in the case of Tajiks) Pakistan. In through half a dozen tiny countries. In ad-
Kashgar you will see the occasional descend- dition to the two national languages of Urdu
ant of White Russians. And, of course, Han and Mandarin Chinese, there are at least seven
Chinese entrepreneurs and administrators are other common tongues, from three different
everywhere on the China side. linguistic families. Persian is also understood
to some extent throughout the region.
Climate Prominent local languages are Khowar or
The most pleasant temperatures for KKH Chitrali (Ishkoman, Yasin and Ghizar), Pashto
travel are in May, June, September and (Besham and northern Hazara), Kohistani
October. July and August get uncomfortably (Indus Kohistan), Shina (spoken around
hot along most of the KKH, except in high- Gilgit and in the Indus Valley from Chilas to
altitude trekking zones. Lower Nagyr), Burushaski (spoken in Yasin,
In northern Pakistan the wettest months Hunza and Upper Nagyr), Wakhi (Gojal and
are during the monsoon, from late July Tashkurgan) and Uyghur (Kashgar). See p239
to early September, with random sum- for more about the ethnic mix along the KKH,
mer storms from Hunza southwards, and and the Language chapter for a list of useful
steady rain and high humidity from Indus words and phrases.
Kohistan and the Kaghan Valley southwards.
These monsoonal regions are also sporadi- Dangers & Annoyances
cally drizzly from December to March. TRAVEL IN INDUS KOHISTAN
The driest months are May and June and Indus Kohistan, off the Highway, is a pretty
mid-September to November, with the lawless place. You should seek advice from
clearest skies in autumn. Xinjiang remains the police at Dasu, Komila, Pattan or Besham
lonelyplanet.com K A R A K O R A M H I G H W AY • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A r o u n d 241
before heading up any of Kohistan’s side val- Moral of the story: don’t cross a rockfall hop-
leys. See the boxed text, p237. ing to find transport on the other side; the
whole road is probably littered with rocks,
SECTARIAN VIOLENCE AROUND GILGIT with more to come. Go back and wait for
The NA is one of the safest parts of Pakistan, the mountainsides to settle and the roads to
but in 1988 Sunni–Shiite tension erupted in be cleared.
gun battles in the valleys around Gilgit, leaving
at least 100 dead. There were smaller incidents UNREST IN XINJIANG
in the following years, but electoral reforms In early 1997 somewhere between 10 and 100
in 1994 pacified the religious rabble-rousers people died in riots in Yining, about 400km
(who were elected to comfortable positions), at west of Ürümqi (the capital of Xinjiang),
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
which point the violence abruptly subsided. while more bombs exploded in Ürümqi, in
No foreigners were ever injured, but the Qorla (east of Kashgar) and on a Beijing bus.
KKH has sprouted police checkpoints where The Chinese government’s response was swift
foreigners must sign a register. Many sign false and ruthless, with Uyghur sources claiming
names for the fun of it, though the logbooks thousands of executions. As a result there has
have apparently been used to help embassies hardly been a dent in regional tourism, and
find their nationals in emergencies. there appears to be no danger for visitors.
In August 2003 there were violent protests Since 2001 it appears that China has taken
in Skardu triggered by disagreements between advantage of the West’s ‘war on terrorism’
local Shiite leaders over the syllabus taught at to continue to exert its will over Xinjiang’s
schools. And in January 2005, 11 people died Islamic populace.
in violent clashes following a shooting attack
on a Shiite leader. If you are ever caught in Getting There & Around
such circumstances, the advice is to retreat to The nominal southern end of the KKH is at
your hotel and stay out of sight of the mob. Havelian in Pakistan’s NWFP, but in practice
it’s at Islamabad or Rawalpindi. Islamabad has
ROCKFALL a limited number of direct international air
Rockfall hazard on the KKH, side roads in- connections, including Kashgar, plus others
cluding the Gilgit to Skardu road, and on all via Lahore and Karachi (see p86).
valley footpaths rises sharply during rainy You can reach the KKH by train from
weather. Walkers and cyclists should simply all over Pakistan. Most trains to the capital
find something else to do. Rockfall on the area go to Rawalpindi’s Saddar Bazaar sta-
Highway may ruin your plans, but it can do tion (p87), and a spur of the Rawalpindi to
far worse. During the research for this book Peshawar line runs to Havelian. The best bet
we were caught in a downpour while on the from Lahore is to take one of the air-con bus
Chapursan Valley road and witnessed rocks services to Rawalpindi.
larger than our jeep come hurtling down into The northern end of the KKH is at Kashgar
the river beside the road; thankfully we were in China’s Xinjiang Autonomous Region.
on the opposite side of the river. A letter from Kashgar is linked by air to Islamabad and
one traveller describes a harrowing day on the via the provincial capital, Ürümqi, to major
KKH between Karimabad and Gulmit. Chinese cities and other international points.
Overland, Kashgar is linked by bus and train
A local driver said it was just a matter to Ürümqi, from where railway lines run to
of scrambling across the rockfall and Chinese cities and to Almaty in Kazakhstan.
boarding transport on the other side. Warm-weather roads cross the Torugart Pass
But there wasn’t any, so he and his between Kashgar and Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan,
companions decided to continue on and across the Irkeshtam Pass to Osh, also in
foot. Soon rocks were falling around Kyrgyzstan, and an all-weather road runs be-
them, and they spent six hours liter- tween Ürümqi and Almaty.
ally cheating death, sometimes hug- Domestic transport in Pakistan to/from
ging the wall, sometimes being forced Islamabad, and to/from Kashgar in China, is
down to the rising river. At one point covered in detail in the Transport chapter and
a 5m rock smashed to the road just a within the Getting There & Away sections of
metre from one of them. the respective cities.
242 K A R A K O R A M H I G H W AY lonelyplanet.com
scarce on the Kashgar plain, and between Kara Kul and the Khunjerab Pass. Checkpoints make
good overnight stops, and it’s possible to stay in private homes.
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
HUNZA TO GILGIT
Ganish to Pisan (Minapin turn-off ), about 25km
From the bridge over the Hunza River it’s an unpaved 3km to the recommended Diran Hotel at
Minapin, with a steep down-and-up at Minapin Nala (nala is Urdu for tributary canyon).
GILGIT REGION
Gilgit is 10km off the KKH. Most people cycling the KKH start or finish here, avoiding the head-
aches of Indus Kohistan.
Gilgit to Shatial has no long climbs in either direction, but lots of lung-busters under
4km long. There is a significant risk of dehydration and heatstroke between Raikot Bridge
and Shatial.
INDUS KOHISTAN
Cyclists, with expensive gear and skintight clothing that may offend orthodox Muslims, are espe-
cially vulnerable in Indus Kohistan. There are unverified stories of assaults, though cyclists mostly
report petty theft and stone-throwing kids, mainly south of Dasu. Camping near police or army
installations is comforting and pleasant.
HAZARA
The KKH is wide and paved, but from Mansehra south, traffic is heavy and drivers are reckless.
River Mandu
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Guch
Hari Singh, after whom it’s named. In
ihar R
KKH
Sharkul
1853 the British moved all its administra-
ive
Batagram
tive functions to Abbottabad, and Haripur’s
r
To Naran
Chattar Plain (80km); importance waned.
Babusar Pass
Batal (132km);
Chilas
Half an hour north of Haripur is Havelian,
Dadar
tains
NORTH-WEST Shifa
FRONTIER
PROVINCE
Mansehra Getting There & Away
There are two busy routes north to Haripur
from the Grand Trunk Rd (GT Rd). At Hasan
Thandiani Abdal (p90) there’s a sign welcoming you to
KKH
ABBOTTABAD 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
To Mandian (2km);
A B C Pearl Continental (3km); D
Ayub Teaching Hospital (5km);
13 Youth Hostel (5km);
INFORMATION Mansehra (26km)
Abbottabad Online..................1 C4 Circula
KKH
r (Sab
City Money Exchange..........(see 17) ir Shar
if) Rd
1 Conservator of Forests.............2 A3
Muslim Commercial Bank.........3 B4
National Bank...........................4 B5
National Bank...........................5 B4
Pak Telecom Exchange............6 A3 Parade
Ground
Post Office...............................7 B2
PTDC Office............................8 C2
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Iqb
Rd
UBL Bank...............................10 B3 at
d
h
Cantonment
qu
na
Variety Book Stall...................11 B3
Rd
Lia
Jin
Mansehra
d
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
bR
Katchery Rd
Public
Catholic Church.....................12 D3 Library
Clu
2 Commissioner's
Christian Cemetery.................13 B1
Office
Old Sikh Temple....................14 B4 8
Presbyterian Church..............15 D3 Cantonment
24 Public
St Luke's Church....................16 C2 Park
7 16
To Shimla
Peak (3km)
Centr
al Rd
34 Pin
eV
6 iew
Rd 15
11
17 College (Waqaru ll a h) Rd
9
3 10
21
To Thandiani (27km);
To Shimla Peak (3km) 26 Murree (70km)
25
2
27
Mosque 12
Sara
Baza fa
ar
Gum
Meat & Vegetable ani R
d
Market
3 5
Id Ga
h Rd
1 To District Headquarters
Meat & Vegetable 20
ar
w
Baza
4 r
Rd
Thandiani (27km);
Masj
Main
Murree (70km)
h
23
Jinna
14 35
Jail
City Id Gah Rd
Hall
Rd
District City
Courts Park
SLEEPING
Al Faiz Hotel...................................17 B3
4 Al-Zahra Hotel............................... 18 C6
d)
Bolan Hotel....................................19 C6
ra R
Pineview Hotel...............................21 C3
(Ma
Ramlina Hotel................................22 C6
Sarban Hotel..................................23 C4
Mall
EATING
The
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Orientation Fri Sep-May) Across from Cantonment Public Park, this is
North of the general bus stand is a round- one of the more friendly and useful PTDC offices. PTDC can
about, Fowara Chowk. Down the right fork help book transportation and tours (eg Kaghan Valley or
is the Mall (Mansehra Rd). The left fork Swat), government resthouses and private accommodation
is Jinnah Rd, running by the bazaar and options in the region.
Cantonment before rejoining the Mall.
Sights & Activities
Information ABBOTTABAD TOWN
BOOKSHOPS
With its orderly tree-lined streets, European
Variety Book Stall (Club Rd) Limited number of English architecture and grand parade ground, the
titles plus stationery.
Cantonment is the town’s historical heart. St
Luke’s Church (cnr Central & Jinnah Rds), near the PTDC,
is as old as the town. A melancholy Christian
INTERNET ACCESS cemetery is 500m up Circular Rd.
There are several internet cafés in town, usually Abbottabad’s other persona is the bazaar, a
open daily from around 9am to midnight. congested quarter of crumbling colonial archi-
Abbottabad Online (AOL; Id Gah Rd; per hr Rs 20) tecture, full of noise, traffic and the smells of
Robz Internet Cafe (Pine View Rd; per hr Rs 20) cooking oil and barbecued meat. In Gurdwara
Sarban Internet Cafe (Jinnah Rd; per hr Rs 20) In a Bazaar (off Jinnah Rd), beneath the arch, is a
relatively quiet location. former gurdwara built in 1943, abandoned at
Partition and now used as municipal offices.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Ayub Teaching Hospital (Mansehra Rd, Mandian) It’s SHIMLA PEAK
5km north of the Mall. The hills cradling Abbottabad are Shimla Peak
District Headquarters Teaching Hospital (Id Gah to the northwest and Sarban Peak to the south.
Rd) East of the Mall. Shimla’s cool, pine-clad summit is woven with
trails and features fine panoramas of the town
MONEY and its surroundings. You can walk up (three
Change money here if you’re heading for steep kilometres) or take a passenger Suzuki
the Kaghan Valley, as no banks in the valley (Rs 5) from upper Pine View Rd; ask for
will do it. Shimla pahari (pa-ree).
City Money Exchange (Pine View Rd, h9am-5pm
Mon-Sat) Will change cash US dollars, euros and ILYASI MOSQUE
UK pounds. This striking mosque, with a complex of spring-
Muslim Commercial Bank (cnr Jinnah & Id Gah Rds) fed bathhouses and pools, is 5km east on the
Cashes travellers cheques and changes cash. Murree road, near Nawan Sheher village. A
National Bank (Jail Rd) Cashes travellers cheques and small bazaar nearby has basic teashops. Catch
changes cash. The main branch is near the courts and a Suzuki (Rs 10 to Rs 20) to Nawan Sheher from
there’s another on Id Gah Rd. the Suzuki stand on Id Gah Rd.
UBL Bank (Pine View Rd) Changes cash (US dollars, euros,
UK pounds) only. Sleeping
BUDGET
POST North of Abbottabad at Mandian, the Pakistan
Post office (cnr Club & Central Rds) Youth Hostel Association (PYHA) hostel is
248 HA Z A R A • • A b b o t t a b a d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Bolan Hotel (% 334395; Fowara Chowk; s/d Rs a small selection of mutton and chicken dishes,
210/300) The worn and rather grubby Bolan such as the ubiquitous mutton karai (mutton
near the general bus stand offers the cheap- braised with vegetables and served bubbling in
est acceptable rooms with hot showers. its own pan; Rs 70). Vegetarians will hopefully
Pineview Hotel (%335555; Jinnah Rd; d Rs 300) The find dhal (Rs 25), but not much else.
Pineview is a fine chaikhana (teahouse) with Rainbow Café (Jinnah Rd) Close to the New
a lively location but it’s a barely satisfactory Friends Cafe and serving up similar food.
hotel. The poky rooms surprisingly boast Mona Lisa Restaurant (%334131; Jinnah Rd; mains
cable TV. Mind your head as you enter. Rs 60-250; h10am-11.30pm) Adjacent to the PTDC
Ramlina Hotel (%334431; Fowara Chowk; s/d/tr in the Cantonment, this bright roadside eatery
Rs 200/350/600) The Ramlina has grotty singles boasts a huge menu of Pakistani, Chinese and
though the bigger rooms get more care. Continental mains plus snacks and barbecue
There’s running hot water and a bare-bones fare. But first ask what is available and fresh.
restaurant, but its best feature is that it is Most of the hotels have restaurants attached
convenient for onward transport. and these range in quality and price from the
New Faisal Hotel (% 334406; The Mall; s/d Rs chaikhana at Pineview Hotel (Jinnah Rd; mains Rs 30-
250/350) The tiny rooms are well kept but 50), with a great balcony to watch life down on
resonate with traffic noise. You’ll find that the street, to the upmarket Nadia (Pearl Continental
other options in the vicinity are not inter- Hotel, Mansehra Rd, Mandian; mains Rs 185-350; h7am-
ested in foreigners. 11pm), with an extensive Chinese, Continental
and Pakistani menu.
MIDRANGE & TOP END West of the bazaar, there are a couple
Al Faiz Hotel (%340896; Pine View Rd; d/tr Rs 1000/1200) of streets dedicated to meat and vegetable
You can be sure of a friendly welcome at Al stalls.
Faiz; however, since our last visit the rooms
have deteriorated, the prices have sky-rocketed
and the restaurant has closed. Shopping
Sarban Hotel (% 331508; fax 334436; The Mall; Hazara embroidery is a local speciality. Small
d Rs 1000-2300; a) The best place to stay in shops in the bazaar have good deals on shawls
town, the Sarban is between the bazaar and and other items.
the Cantonment and close to transport op-
tions. There’s a multicuisine restaurant and Getting There & Away
a travel desk, and the standard rooms are The general bus stand is south of Fowara
clean with TV, fan, bathtubs and limitless Chowk, and nearby are some smaller yards
hot water. dedicated to the numerous minibuses or larger
Pearl Continental (% 334717; fax 334707; KKH/ and more-comfortable Coasters travelling to
Mansehra Rd, Mandian; s/d Rs 3450/4025; a) This is a Thandiani, Rawalpindi and Swat/Peshawar,
poorer cousin of the big bold PCs elsewhere, which leave when full. For Kohistan or the
but it has very comfortable, well-appointed Kaghan Valley, change at Mansehra. You may
rooms and the high-quality Nadia restaurant need to do the same for destinations north
(see Eating right). Breakfast and tax are in- on the KKH. Destinations from Abbottabad
cluded in the tariff. It’s located a couple include the following:
of kilometres north of central Abbottabad Aliabad (Hunza; Rs 750) Silk Route buses and Coasters
in Mandian. Check out the funky bat-cave pass through the general bus stand after originating in
nightclub, Rasalus Café. Rawalpindi, but are often full.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels HA Z A R A • • T h a n d i a n i 249
Gilgit (Rs 750) As for Aliabad. through terraced fields and pine and deodar
Lahore (Rs 200/300 non air-con/air-con, eight hours) forest. Minibuses (Rs 50) leave when full from
Bus to Grand Trunk Rd bus stand. Air-con bus goes to the Fowara Chowk or you could negotiate a spe-
motorway. cial hire of a Suzuki or taxi (Rs 400).
Mansehra (Rs 20, one hour) Minibus.
Mardan (Rs 100, two hours) Most of the Peshawar- and MANSEHRA
Mingora-bound transport stops here en route. %0978 / pop 52,095
Mingora (Swat district; Rs 240, six hours) Bus. Tourists don’t pay much attention to
Murree (Rs 70, five hours) Minibus. Mansehra except to get out and squint at three
Peshawar (Rs 100, three hours) Minibus. Air-con Coasters rocks on the northern outskirts, on which
King Ashoka inscribed a set of edicts over
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
(Rs 120) are worth the small extra expense.
Rawalpindi/Islamabad (Rs 75, 2½ hours) Minibuses 2200 years ago. The bazaar is lively, bearing
leave all day from the general bus stand and next to the traces of the town’s history as a Sikh garri-
Al-Zahra Hotel. More comfortable air-con Coasters (Rs 85) son town in the early 19th century. If you
also go to Rawalpindi from the general bus stand. can tolerate the gridlocked traffic, it’s a great
Thandiani (Rs 50, one hour) Minibus. place for people-watching, with a rich mix
of Pashtuns, Punjabis and Kashmiris. The
Getting Around most common language is Pashto, with some
The yard for passenger Suzukis is down an Hindko Punjabi.
alley east of the Mount View Hotel on Id Gah Mansehra is a major transportation junc-
Rd. They usually clog Id Gah Rd and run up tion for Rawalpindi, Azad Jammu & Kashmir
and down the Mall all day for Rs 5. Taxis will (AJK), the Kaghan and Swat Valleys, and
use the meter if it is demanded, though it is the KKH.
easier to fix a price – about Rs 50 from one
end of town to the other. Orientation
The KKH skirts Mansehra, but local roads,
THANDIANI named for their old destinations – Abbottabad,
%0992 Shinkiari village and Kashmir – converge on
Thandiani (taan-dee-aa-nee), a series of 2700m the bridge in the middle of town. Most buses
forested ridges northeast of Abbottabad, is the use the general bus stand 1.5km north of town,
northernmost of the hill-station retreats called though some local minibuses arrive at the old
the Galis (p90). The air is cool and clean, de- GTS stand south of the bridge. Through buses
velopment is minimal and there are views east may drop you on the KKH near the Ashoka
across the Pir Panjal Range, and north even Rocks; from there it’s a 1km walk into town
to Nanga Parbat in clear weather. Thandiani along Shinkiari Rd.
means ‘cool place’, so bring extra layers. Long
day trips from Abbottabad are possible, or- Information
ganised by the PTDC (see p247). The telephone exchange and post office are
above the bazaar out on Kashmir Rd. The po-
Sleeping & Eating lice can be found in the Sikh Fort nearby. The
Far Pavilions Hotel (tents/d Rs 300/400) This little hotel National Bank, above and behind Kashmir
at the bus terminus has two doubles as well as Bazaar, changes cash and travellers cheques.
tents in summer. It may also offer cheaper char- Internet cafés, such as Hazara Internet Café (per
poys (rope beds) or camping sites. Bookings hr Rs 20), are not very reliable.
can be made through the PTDC (p247) or
the travel desk at the Sarban Hotel (p248) in Sights
Abbottabad. A café and pakora (deep-fried ASHOKA ROCKS
vegetable) shops are open in summer. On the north side of town is Mansehra’s
A Communications & Works (C&W) rest- tourist attraction, three granite boulders on
house and forestry resthouse here are rarely which 14 edicts were engraved by order of
available, but inquire at Abbottabad PTDC. the Mauryan king Ashoka in the 3rd century
BC. Appalled by the destruction wreaked by
Getting There & Away his military campaigns, Ashoka converted to
Thandiani is an hour’s ride from Abbottabad Buddhism and tried to dictate a new moral-
on a winding road beside the Kalapani River, ity based on piety, moderation, tolerance and
250 HA Z A R A • • M a n s e h r a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
wy
Besham (122km);
H
the road. Gilgit (444km)
ram
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Ashoka Rocks.......................... 5 A2
ako
Ashoka Rocks.......................... 6 A2
Kar
FORMER SIKH TEMPLE (LIBRARY) Former Sikh Temple (Library)....7 B3
Sikh Fort...................................8 B3
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
BAZAARS 15 7
ir Rd
kia Bazaar
with Kashmir Bazaar sprawled across the top, riRd
Ka
bo
rR
tta
older Neelam (or Jerah) Bazaar. 4 ba
Jaffa
10 dR
d
Neelam 13
Mosque
(or Jerah)
Sleeping Bazaar
To KKH (400m);
Zam Zam Hotel (%305127; off Shinkiari Rd; s/d Rs Karakuram Hotel (1km);
Abbottabad (26km);
100/130, s/d with toilet Rs 150/180) Small, passably Rawalpindi (128km)
Karakuram Hotel (mains Rs 100-350) with Chinese, land slippage and subsequent savage winters
Continental and Pakistani fare. have hindered roadworks, which were fre-
quent enough even before the earthquake,
Getting There & Away and restoration of phone and power lines.
The local minibus stand (Abbottabad Rd) has de- Rebuilding was very much in evidence at the
partures for Abbottabad (Rs 20) and irregu- time of writing but it will be many years be-
lar trips to Haripur (Rs 50) and Rawalpindi fore this region returns to normal in terms of
(Liaquat Chowk) only. access and accommodation.
For other destinations or modes of trans- At the valley head is the 4175m Babusar
port, take a Suzuki (Rs 5) from Shinkiari Rd Pass into the Indus Valley at Chilas. In 1892
the British established a supply line across
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
to the general bus stand, 1.5km north of town
on the KKH. It’s a large and hectic yard, but this pass, one of only two to Gilgit from
help is never far away. Just ask one of the the outside world. The other, the Burzil
many spruikers. Pass from Kashmir, was closed by the 1949
For the Kaghan Valley, there are minibuses ceasefire, leaving just the Babusar to link
to Balakot and sometimes Naran, as well as the NA with the rest of Pakistan until the
slower buses. For destinations north, go to KKH was built. It’s open for several weeks
Northern Areas Transport Company (Natco; %301471) each summer, a challenging alternative to
near the general bus stand beside the KKH. the KKH between Mansehra and Chilas.
You may be able to guarantee a seat by ring- Work has commenced on improving the
ing Natco’s Rawalpindi office (%051-9278441, 051- road, particularly on the Chilas side, but it
5462181). Buses and Coasters such as Natco’s is expected to take several years before this
run to a timetable, but the minibuses mostly becomes a viable short cut to Chilas for
leave when uncomfortably full. general transport.
Balakot (Rs 30) Minibuses, some heading on to Naran, The valley population consists of a string
leaving all day. of villages along the river, plus a biannual
Batagram (Rs 60) Minibus. migration of Gujars, who fan out with their
Besham (Rs 120) Minibuses leaving all day. animals into the high pastures of Hazara
Gilgit (Rs 800) Various Coasters and buses originating (and Swat and Chitral) in May and June,
from Rawalpindi. Natco has five departures a day. returning in September and October.
Islamabad (Rs 90, 3½ hours) Minibuses leaving all day. Several treks out of the valley are de-
Karachi (Rs 1000) Air-con buses each day. scribed in Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the
Lahore (Rs 300) Air-con buses each day. Karakoram & Hindukush.
Muzaffarabad (Rs 60) Minibuses leaving all day.
Naran (Rs 100) Minibuses leaving all day when road open. ORIENTATION
Rawalpindi (Rs 90 to Rs 100, 3½ hours) Buses leaving The valley’s gateway, Balakot, is 39km from
all day. Mansehra. The valley road is more or less
Skardu (Rs 700/850 minibus/bus) Natco has two depar- paved up to Naran, though there are numer-
tures originating from Rawalpindi in the afternoon (3pm ous interruptions due to land slippage, much
and 6pm). of it associated with the 2005 earthquake.
From Naran to Babusar Pass it’s 70km of
KAGHAN VALLEY gradually deteriorating jeep track. Four-
Embraced by the cool forested peaks of the wheel drives and other vehicles can be hired
Lesser Himalaya, this 160km-long valley in Balakot or Naran, with rates dropping in
drained by the burbling Kunhar River is one the off season.
of Pakistan’s most popular summer holiday
spots. The verdant valley is not without its WHEN TO GO
problems of crowding, litter and gouging By May, Shogran and Naran are usually ac-
hoteliers during the brief holiday season, but cessible by 4WD. Hotel prices and occupancy
outside the summer peak, you will find the rates are low at this time, but many of the
promised tranquillity though many of the scenic attractions are still under snow. High
hotels will have closed their doors. season begins in earnest in June. The mon-
The 2005 Kashmir earthquake devastated soon brings rain and numerous temporary
the town of Balakot and destroyed many roads roadblocks in July and August, but upvalley
in the steep-sided Kaghan Valley. On-going travel is possible. August is the best time for
252 HA Z A R A • • K a g h a n Va l l e y lonelyplanet.com
KAGHAN VALLEY 0
0
20 km
12 miles
To Besham
(185km)
us River
Ind
er
Riv
KKH
Indus
Chilas To Gilgit
NORTHERN (110km)
Barsin AREAS Dasar
The external boundaries of Pakistan
& India on this map have not been
authenticated and may not be correct.
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
ah
Komila
kG
Dasu
Tha
H
KK
Babusar
Babusar Pass
(4175m)
Ka Riv
ba er
lba
Gittidas
sh
Lake
i
Lulusar
NORTH-WEST Besal Pur Lake
bi R Dudipat
FRONTIER iver
PROVINCE Jalk
han
dR
ive
r
Sukai Peak
(4689m)
Battakundi
Burawai
Lal
Jo
Naran aza
ra
r
Ri
r Pla
ve tea
ve
Ri u
r
Lake
ar
K unh Saiful Mulk
Malika Parbat
(5290m)
Kaghan
Danna
Meadows
Khanian
Mandu Mahandri
Guch
Jared
er
Sharan Shinu
Riv
Siran
To KKH Paras
(10km) Kawai
Shogran
Dadar Plateau
n AZAD JAMMU
To Besham (100km);
Shogra
& KASHMIR
Chilas (300km); Sri Paya
Gilgit (422km) Balakot Meadows Koh-i-Makra
l
(3900m)
tro
on
fC
eo
Lin
Shinkiari
Bassain
H Garhi
KK Habibullah
Altar INDIA
Shifa
Muzaffarabad
Mansehra
To Abbottabad (26km);
Rawalpindi (128km) To Murree
(80km)
lonelyplanet.com HA Z A R A • • K a g h a n Va l l e y 253
a jeep crossing of the Babusar Pass, at least impressive cracks. The spacious, clean and
until the road is completely upgraded. quiet rooms have morning and evening hot
Fine weather returns in September and water. Air-con is only available in the ex-
October, with the nights getting colder and pensive triple. The hotel has a multicuisine
the chance of snow in late October. From restaurant (mains Rs 50 to Rs 200) which
late November to early April snow routinely specialises in Chinese meals.
blocks the road beyond Kaghan, and the
upper villages are mostly deserted. GETTING THERE & AWAY
The general bus stand and jeep lot are north of
ACCOMMODATION Hotel Serenity, down the hill. Buses and mini-
Hotels overflow in the tourist season, but buses go to Mansehra (Rs 30) all day, depart-
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
prices collapse in May and September/ ing when full. For Muzaffarabad, take a bus or
October, when you can negotiate bargains Suzuki to Garhi Habibullah (Rs 20), and catch
with the handful of hotels that remain open. a Mansehra–Muzaffarabad bus (Rs 40).
Don’t count on any hotels in the smaller Depending on road conditions, buses, pick-
towns being open after the peak season. Few ups and minibuses go to Naran (Rs 100) all
hotels will offer single-room rates in season. day in June and July; out of season you may
There are several run-down PYHA hostels, have to take a jeep to Naran or transfer to
packed with Pakistani students in summer one in Kaghan.
and closed the rest of the year.
Some government resthouses are available Kawai & Shogran
on the rare occasions when officials aren’t %0987
using them. Make inquiries about the avail- At Kawai, 21km north of Balakot, a jeep track
ability of hotels and government resthouses climbs steeply for 8km up to the resort of
in the valley at the PTDC in Abbottabad Shogran. With views down to a carpet of forest
(see p247). and up to majestic peaks – including 5290m
Malika Parbat (Queen of Mountains), tallest in
Balakot the Kaghan Valley, and the brooding, 3900m
%0987 Koh-i-Makra (Spider Mountain). A day hike
Tragic Balakot (982m) was virtually de- is to the small lake and beautiful meadows of
stroyed in the 2005 earthquake and many Sri Paya, 9km beyond Shogran up a rough jeep
lives were lost. At the time of research one track. Afternoon views are best and reliable
hotel remained standing amid the tangle of local guides are available at the hotels.
tents and temporary shelters. The bazaar was Kawai has a small number of very basic
bustling beneath its makeshift shelter of cor- hotels with no reason other than road closures
rugated-iron sheets and blue plastic tarps. to stay there. At Shogran, the friendly Tourist
There is a great deal of energetic rebuilding Inn (%432236; d Rs 2000) has clean, rudimentary
and obvious resistance to government plans rooms, some with excellent balcony views,
to resite the town 30km towards Mansehra and a restaurant. Other budget options with
at Bakrial. fine views include Hotel Serenity (%432282; d
The PTDC operates a restaurant, at the Rs 400-1000), and the Punjab and the Marshee
southern end of town, but at the time of Breeze, which were being rebuilt at the time
research there was no tourist information, of research.
no vehicle hire and little accommodation At the top end the enormous Pine Park
here. The police, post office, telephone (%410333; s/d from Rs 1500/3000, cottages Rs 6000)
exchange and hospital were operating in largely survived the quake and is almost worth
temporary buildings in their old locations, the price, more so when you negotiate a low-
all a short walk south of the PTDC office. season discount. There are various rooms and
Banks here don’t do foreign exchange, and cottages, a restaurant, and local guides and
you can’t change money elsewhere in the jeep transport for hire.
Kaghan Valley. A minibus or pick-up is about Rs 50 from
The Hotel Serenity (%501182; d/tr Rs 600/2500; Balakot to Kawai. From there a special jeep
a) can be found at the back of a shopping can be hired for Rs 350 up to Shogran. A
arcade – apparently the only large building special jeep from Shogran to Sri Paya is Rs
to remain standing, and displaying some 800 one way.
254 HA Z A R A • • K a g h a n Va l l e y Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
resthouse that can be booked with help from It’s a hot two- to three-hour uphill walk
the PTDC in Abbottabad (see p247). from Naran to the lake; the path starts just
above the bazaar. Alternatively, you can hire
Khanian & Kaghan a jeep for Rs 700 from Naran, which can take
The undeveloped village of Khanian, at an up to six passengers. The driver will stay at the
attractive turn of the Kunhar River, offers lake for about an hour, allowing you to go for
a quiet place to stay if the tourist hordes are a horse ride before returning.
getting to you. As well as a few budget hotels The best way to have it all to yourself is to
there’s a Pine Park cottage that can be booked camp. A forestry resthouse at the lake can be
through the Pine Park Hotel in Naran. From booked at the Conservator of Forests (%0992-
Khanian, a 10km jeep track winds up the hill- 9310232; Jail Rd) in Abbottabad, or you could even
side to picturesque Danna Meadows. sleep on the porch with a sleeping bag.
About the only thing going for the next vil- A day’s further walking takes you east to
lage of Kaghan is that the road is usually open the edge of the Lalazar Plateau (though this
year-round, so if you can organise accommo- is more easily reached from Battakundi). A
dation it could make a base for winter trips. jeep to Lalazar Plateau costs around Rs 1000
Any other time, move on to Naran. There are from Naran.
several budget hotels with basic rooms that are
acceptable but overpriced in summer. From SLEEPING & EATING
Balakot, buses, pick-ups and minibuses pass The 2005 earthquake damage and subsequent
through on their way to Naran in summer; out access problems severely disrupted the holi-
of season you may have to hire a jeep. day seasons in 2006 and 2007. When the situ-
ation returns to normal, hotels in Naran will
Naran resume charging according to demand. In
%0985 the peak of summer, if you are lucky enough
At 2400m, Naran is the summertime base for to find a free room, you will be quoted more
exploring the valley and for the multitude than Rs 2000 for a rudimentary double with
of tourists escaping the heat of the plains. a tiny bathroom. Most hotels have a res-
It’s a beehive in the tourist season, choked taurant with Pakistani, Chinese and some
with jeeps and minibuses, and the hotels are Continental mains.
packed (Naran visitors sometimes have to There are numerous hotels in the budget
stay in Kaghan). By October the few hotels category that will charge Rs 300 to Rs 500
that remain open may ask less than a fifth of for a room either side of the summer season
the summer price. From November to April, but will happily treble these prices in sum-
Naran completely shuts down. mer. Most have very basic rooms with less
than basic bathrooms and only occasional
INFORMATION hot water. Hotels in this category include the
Following the 2005 earthquake and subse- Sarhad, Shalimar, Paradise Inn, Kohitoor,
quent access problems, Naran is yet to return Pakistan, Zam Zam and Zero Point at the
to normal. Phone numbers listed here are north end of town; Snow View in the centre;
likely to change when phone lines are restored and the Balakot, Frontier, Naran and Kunhar
and road access is likely to remain highly sea- View in the south.
sonal and tenuous. The PTDC (%430002; PTDC By the road, 3km south of town, is a PYHA
Motel) is your best bet for assistance in hiring hostel, in a state of disrepair. Some midrange
guides and jeeps. Fishing licences are available places may let you pitch a tent and use their
lonelyplanet.com HA Z A R A • • T o t h e B a b u s a r Pa s s 255
water and toilets for a small fee (though mountain bike, pony or on foot. Although
PTDC won’t). there are efforts to upgrade the road, most
Better-quality lodgings with room tariffs progress has been made on the Chilas side.
starting at Rs 800 for a single room and Rs You should definitely get local advice be-
1000 for a double can be found in the larger fore crossing the Babusar Pass. The PTDC in
hotels such as the Green Park, Pine Park, Naran (opposite) is a good source; in Chilas,
Lalazar, Troutlands and the PTDC Motel. try field officers at the Northern Areas Public
To stay at the PTDC in summer you will need Works Department (NAPWD) executive en-
to book well in advance through the PTDC in gineer office, or Natco drivers on the Babusar
Islamabad (see p77). village run.
At Battakundi, 16km up the valley, you can
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
GETTING THERE & AWAY detour 5km up to summer pastures on Lalazar
Minibuses to/from Balakot are Rs 100 and leave Plateau. There are resthouses in Battakundi
from the northern end of the main road when and 15km up the valley at Burawai. There is
full. Outside of July to September you may have occasional basic (charpoy) accommodation
to take a passenger jeep to Kaghan and change, at Battakundi and Besal, though you may find
or hire a jeep. The Naran PTDC has no jeeps the latter deserted.
for hire, but will help you bargain with local The road degenerates to a barely jeepable
drivers. In season, the PTDC runs a daily bus track 20km beyond Burawai, at Besal. From
service from Flashman’s Hotel in Rawalpindi, there you can detour about 15km east to
changing to a Coaster at Balakot. beautiful green Lake Dudipat, or stay on the
main track for about 3km to Lake Lulusar, the
TO THE BABUSAR PASS biggest natural lake in Hazara and the source
The Kaghan Valley’s most dramatic scenery of the Kunhar River. Here you may see Gujar
is beyond Naran. Travel here is by 4WD, encampments in the summer.
Gittidas, about 6km north of Lake Lulusar, to pine-scented Dadar. You can walk over the
is the southernmost Kohistani village in the mountains into the Kaghan Valley in a few
region, and not a particularly friendly place to days – from Shinkiari to Balakot, or from
stay the night without a local guide. Cyclists re- Dadar to Balakot or Sharan via Mandu Guch.
port stone-throwing kids, too. From Gittidas, The hills are said to harbour bears, wild cats
it’s about 8km to Babusar ‘top’. If the weather and outlaws, so a local guide is a very good
is clear, you can walk about 1km east from the idea. The PTDC (see p247) in Abbottabad is
pass for views of the Kaghan Valley behind a good source of information.
you and Nanga Parbat to the northeast. From Shinkiari the KKH climbs through
Babusar village is 13km north of the pass on pine plantations into a picturesque bowl called
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
the track, or about half that far on a short-cut Chattar Plain (named for Chattar Singh, an-
footpath. In summer there are a few shops and other Sikh general), 1¼ hours from Mansehra.
serais open, and a spartan resthouse, which The flat plain stills bears shattered buildings
you can only book at the Chilas NAPWD (see from the earthquake and the many brick-
p265). Camping is not recommended. making kilns here are working overtime. An
It’s 39km from Babusar village to Chilas on alternative route is by back road from Dadar
a jeep track that is being rapidly improved to Batal village, just south of Chattar Plain.
along Thak Nala. The new road meets the From Chattar Plain the KKH rises at the
KKH 3km east of Chilas. Natco makes this small settlement of Sharkul, about 14km from
trip daily in summer. Batal, then drops to Batagram, crossing into
the Nandihar River basin before dropping
Getting There & Away towards the Indus River.
Until the road improvements have finished,
only a small 4WD jeep can manage the nar- Sleeping & Eating
row, rocky track over the pass in July and Chattar Motel & Restaurant (%0987-333191; d Rs
August, though even then monsoon rains 1000) On Chattar Plain, 10km from Batal, the
make it problematic. A one-way jeep rental bright Chattar Motel sits in a neatly clipped
from Naran to Babusar village/Chilas costs lawn, and the good restaurant (mains Rs 40
about Rs 3500/5000. The pass is also feas- to Rs 250) is a popular lunch stop for tour
ible as a day trip from Naran, for about Rs groups. The comfortable doubles are elabo-
3000. Cargo jeeps sometimes go up as far rately wood-lined and the bathrooms, all with
as Besal. hot water, are spacious.
On foot, give yourself at least a week from PTDC Chattar (%0997-333455; s/d Rs 1200/1500) At
Naran to Babusar village, which allows for Sharkul, in the woods above Chattar Plain,
some side trips. Trekking may be possible the recently constructed PTDC Chattar has
as early as mid-June (though you’ll still find four spotless doubles and a small restaurant
snow) into October (though most villagers (mains Rs 60 to Rs 90).
will be gone for the winter by then). Snow Affaq Hotel (%0997-333106; d Rs 2000) Next door
normally begins in November. A local guide to the PTDC Chattar, the friendly (though
might be helpful from Gittidas to Babusar not much English) Affaq has similar rooms
village, as not everyone is friendly en route. but with cable TV in the lounge. Mains here
Naran to Chilas is about 130km. cost Rs 50 to Rs 150.
For information on cycling the Babusar
Pass, see the boxed text, p255. BATAGRAM
%0987 / pop 183,508
MANSEHRA TO BATAGRAM The Pashtun village of Batagram, straddling
The KKH leaves Mansehra and crosses the sur- the Nandihar River 25km from the Indus, has
rounding Pakhli Plain before rising through little to offer visitors other than some hard-to-
terraces of wheat and cornfields. About 35 find Buddhist ruins in the hills near Pishora.
minutes and 24km north of Mansehra is the Little English is spoken.
village of Shinkiari, where the National Tea
Research Institute is selecting varieties for Sights & Activities
Pakistan’s (largely unsuitable) climate. A few Across the Nandihar River, about 12km
minibuses from Mansehra continue from north of the bazaar on the KKH, watch for
here up the picturesque Siran River Valley the cable cars (some of them just rickety seats
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels I N D U S K O H I S TA N 257
suspended from a single cable) that connect only a few hours of sunlight a day, and
villages on the west side of the river to the are so inhospitable that even the caravan
KKH. For a cheap (make an offer) thrill, try routes bypassed it. The Highway traveller
one yourself. is surrounded by this fractured, crumbling
Archaeological researchers say there are landscape with barely a blade of grass vis-
Buddhist ruins near Pishora village, 8km north ible – magnificent and ominous. It’s a land-
of Batagram, though you would need good scape in motion; the sheer rock walls are
local help to find them. In the same area, Kala being ripped apart by powerful waterfalls
Tassa, there are petroglyphs depicting hunters, carving out yawning canyons, and rocks lie
animals and a Buddhist stupa beneath a rock scattered across the road.
overhang. The writing refers to a monastery Kohistan (Land of Mountains) refers to
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
in the time of a Kushan king of the 1st and the sub-6000m peaks enclosing this canyon
2nd centuries AD. as well as upper Swat and Dir. The desolate,
crumbling terrain made it one of the most har-
Sleeping & Eating rowing passages in Asia. The intrepid Chinese
Batagram View Hotel (%310194; s/d Rs 800/1000) The Buddhist pilgrim Fa Hsien, having already
best accommodation is here on the KKH, 2km crossed most of China and the Karakoram
south of the bazaar. Geared towards Japanese on foot, was awestruck. In 403 AD he wrote
tour groups, the hotel features a Japanese about Indus Kohistan:
bathhouse downstairs. Unfortunately, the
baths were seriously damaged in the 2005 The road is difficult and broken, with
earthquake and were still awaiting repair steep crags and precipices in the way.
when we visited. Oddly, the restaurant (mains The mountainside is like a stone wall
Rs 60 to Rs 100) does not feature Japanese 10,000 feet high. Looking down, the
cuisine; instead Pakistani, Chinese and a few sight is confused and there is no sure
Continental dishes are available. foothold.
Accommodation in town is decidedly
more downmarket, and there is little to dis- INDUS
tinguish the hotels from one another. Shangri- KOHISTAN 0 20 km
0 12 miles
La Hotel (d Rs 200), by the bus stop north of Sumi
the bridge, and Spogmay Hotel (s/d Rs 100/200), Falaksair
(5918m)
in the main bazaar, have small rooms with To Gilgit
Gabrial (200km)
squat toilets. Sazin
Na
the area. The bright Thai Hotel & Food Mella Richa Ka nd i a V
er
al la
le
Indus Riv
y
(%310194; s/d Rs 800/1000; h8am-11pm) restaurant
features a Thai Airways colour scheme but Indus Kohistan
no Thai dishes – just Pakistani curries. Chowa
BarsIn
K o h i s t a n Dara Village
District
Kaya l Va l l ey
Komila Dasu
C
a Dara Va l l ey
Kayal
bridge, from where minibuses go all day to Dubair (3090m)
Va l l ey
Gid
Pattan Va
r
Dubair Va
s
l ley Bar
to three hours), while Karachi-bound buses To
Palas
Shangla Pass
stop west of the bridge. (20km) Sukai Peak
Besham (4689m)
Al Choar
ai
Vall Meadows
KKH
Kaghan
Abbottabad (86km);
cuts a gorge so deep that some parts see Rawalpindi (190km)
258 I N D U S K O H I S TA N • • T h a k o t t o B e s h a m lonelyplanet.com
The roadside bazaars are gloomy even on a the scenic Shangla Pass, and Besham is the
sunny day, and on the Highway – sometimes junction for buses to/from that direction.
hundreds of metres above the thrashing Indus –
you can empathise with Fa Hsien. Orientation & Information
Another name for the region was Yaghistan Nearly everything is located on the KKH.
(Land of the Ungoverned). Outlaws could Transport up and down the KKH and towards
hide here without fear of capture; tribal war- Swat starts from near the road fork to Swat.
fare and blood feuds were commonplace. For current information on road condi-
Stone watchtowers and fortified houses can tions and the surrounding valleys, ask at the
still be seen in the older villages. Even today PTDC Motel, south of town. Jan Net Café (per
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
outsiders are not very warmly welcomed and hr Rs 20) is near the budget hotels in the bazaar.
travelling off the KKH is not recommended South of the bazaar are a post office, phone
without first seeking police advice. exchange, banks and, further down, a po-
In the 1960s the KKH cut through the lice post. The district hospital is 250m east
Indus gorge and in 1976 Pakistan created down a side road near the Swat junction. The
an administrative district out of these semi- Habib Bank adjacent to the Hotel Continental
autonomous areas. The district government Besham was installing an ATM (apparently
relies heavily on police and the NWFP Frontier
Constabulary, whose forts dot the valley. BESHAM 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
To Swat- To Chilas
A B
THAKOT TO BESHAM Khwazakhela (65km);
Mingora (94km) 11
(200km)
m Hwy
via Shangla Pass
Twenty-seven kilometres north of Batagram
the road drops down to cross the Indus River 6
Karakora
over an elegant, Chinese-constructed suspen- 1 10
Kha
sion bridge at Thakot. In 1976 a lively party was 17 13
n
Kh
held here, with Pakistani and Chinese music Local & Regional
Transport Area
wa
r
15
and dance, to open the bridge and celebrate
the completion of the Indus Valley Rd. In 16
many respects this is the real southern end of 14
Abasin Hotel.............................6 B1
tween Rawalpindi and Gilgit, with several ho-
rak
tels, cheap serais, gun shops and a main road Hotel International...................8 B2
4 Hotel Paris & Restaurant..........9 B2
choked with trucks and buses. This is your Hotel Taj Mahal......................10 B1
base for visiting the Alai Valley, and pleasant Palace Mid Way Hotel............11 B1
Prince Hotel...........................12 B2
Dubair Valley is not far away. Rock City Hotel & Restaurant..13 B1
Besham is in an eastward bulge of Swat dis- TRANSPORT
trict, and is a mostly Pashtun town. The com- 4
Mashabrum Tours..................14 B2
Minibuses to Chilas & Gilgit....15 B1
mon speech is Pashto, and Pashtuns call the Minibuses to Mansehra &
Indus ‘Abaseen’ (Father of Rivers). The fore- To PTDC Motel (2km);
KDB Road Marker (11km);
Batagram...........................16 B2
Minibuses to Swat..................17 B1
runner of the KKH was meant to link the NA, Batagram (51km);
Mansehra (122km) Natco Ticket Office................18 B2
not south to Mansehra but west to Swat over
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels I N D U S K O H I S TA N • • A l a i Va l l e y 259
with international credit capability) at the a new 110 megawatt hydro power station as
time of research. a neighbour, and yet it is still one of the best
riverside hotels along the KKH. The rooms
Sleeping facing the river are spacious, fan-cooled and
BUDGET spotless, and a short hop from the garden
Prince Hotel (%400318; s/d Rs 150/300) The Prince where you can have a drink and watch the
is a rather miserable choice, for the financially fish jumping in the Indus.
embarrassed only. The basic rooms are grotty,
as is the small restaurant, but the management Eating
is friendly and apparently oblivious to the PTDC Motel (KKH; mains Rs 80-125) The PTDC Motel
restaurant has the usual small selection of
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
mould and decay.
Hotel International (%400415; s/d Rs 250/300) The mild curries that all the PTDCs serve.
International has worn-out but passably clean Hotel Continental Besham (KKH; mains Rs 110-170;
rooms with squat toilets and cold shower. This a) The upmarket Continental has gener-
hotel also boasts a crude restaurant. ous set menus, comfortable air-con and a few
Abasin Hotel (%400338; s/d Rs 200/400) Just north Italian dishes in addition to the ubiquitous
of the Swat junction and next to the boisterous Pakistani and Chinese cuisine.
minibus yard, the Abasin has very ordinary Budget hotel restaurants such as the Hotel
rooms with toilet and cold shower. Paris (mains Rs 65-170) and Hotel International (mains
Hotel Taj Mahal (%400432; s/d Rs 280/450) Next Rs 60-100) churn out Pakistani basics like sabzi
door to the Abasin, Taj Mahal is even gloomier (curried vegetables), dhal and mutton curry.
and most of the rooms are poky. The better Bazaar serais have inexpensive chapli ke-
rooms are on the top floor, with sit-down babs, vegetables and omelettes. Fresh supplies
toilets and hot water. here are the best in Kohistan. In the morning,
Hotel Paris & Restaurant (%400310; s/d/tr Rs try puri (deep-fried bread) with halwa (made
350/450/550) The Hotel Paris is possibly the best from lentils, semolina or wheat with butter,
of the bazaar cheapies. The rooms are tired sugar, milk and sweet spices).
but clean with reliable running hot water and
some have sit-down toilets and a bathtub. Getting There & Away
Rock City Hotel & Restaurant (%400553; d Rs 600) Natco and Mashabrum Tours run several
Rock City has adequate though rather pricey buses to Rawalpindi (Rs 280, seven hours)
rooms overlooking a raging torrent. Back and Gilgit (Rs 450, nine hours) daily. Natco
rooms have the river views (and noise). The buses stop every few hours outside the gloomy
clean-looking restaurant (mains Rs 80 to Rs Karachi (Al Mubarak) Hotel, but they don’t
160) has a small selection of Pakistani curries. always have empty seats. Organise tickets
from the office inside the hotel. Mashabrum
MIDRANGE Tours buses stop outside the Swat Hotel and
Palace Mid Way Hotel (%400505; KKH; s/d/tr Rs tickets need to be purchased from the driver.
700/1000/1200) Just north of town, this welcom- There’s also a minibus stand for unsched-
ing hotel is another very comfortable option uled minibuses to Gilgit (Rs 400) via Chilas
with clean rooms arranged around a spacious (Rs 270) and other stops north. Unscheduled
communal area. Bathrooms are supplied with minibuses leave for Batagram (Rs 60) and
toiletries and evaporative air coolers are avail- Mansehra (Rs 120) when they are full.
able on request. The restaurant has Pakistani For Swat, minibuses head to Mingora (Rs
and Chinese cuisine. 100) from next to the Abasin Hotel. Change
Hotel Continental Besham (%400475; KKH; s/d at Khwazakhela (Rs 100) for Madyan and
Rs 1100/1400, s/d with air-con Rs 1600/2000; a) Large upper Swat.
(40 rooms) and central with a loquacious and Suzukis, pick-ups and minibuses leave,
friendly manager. It’s the only place in Besham when they’re full, for Pattan (Rs 55) and Dasu
that can boast reliable air-con, and the spacious (Rs 90) from the Swat junction.
rooms have cable TV and clean bathrooms.
The restaurant (right) is also very good. ALAI VALLEY
PTDC Motel (%400301; KKH; s/d Rs 1900/2450) This The people of the beautiful Alai Valley are
motel 2.5km south of town suffered some seri- Pashtuns, probably driven out of Swat in the
ous damage in the 2005 earthquake and has 16th century. They had their own nawab
260 I N D U S K O H I S TA N • • A l a i Va l l e y lonelyplanet.com
To Chilas
(180km)
Jeep Track to Besham
Frontier
Constabulary
Fort
Restaurant-
District teashops
Ala Council
To Karg i
& Thakot
Kh Resthouse To Battila
wa
r
Hospital
r
wa
Koshgram Meadows
Kh
Besham Battila i
Khwar
a
Kund an
Bridge pk Ganthar
Derkad Pashto Ru
Sakarga Palang
Sherai
Pazang
Panjul
Alai Khwa
PTDC r Tandol
Motel Rupkanai
Khan Khwar
Power Station Bandai
Talus Sherai Rashang Gangwal
Indu
KKH s Riv Banna
Nogram
er Kasai
m Khwar
Pass Karg See Enlargement Nogra
Bela Biarai
Pokal Barai Khwa
Dandai
Kanai
r
(Muslim ruler), and were left alone until the the bus line at Karg, walk 500m back for good
late 1970s, when the area came under NWFP views of the Indus. At the east end of Karg,
control and the nawab was demoted to parlia- fork left to the main village of Banna, lo-
mentary delegate. Alai Valley is actually in the cated across the Alai River, with a red-roofed
Mansehra district, not Indus Kohistan, but its district council resthouse, a C&W resthouse
only road access is from the Indus. and a small hospital. Turning left past the
Though surprised to see foreigners, peo- police post (where they like you to register
ple are instinctively hospitable. If you respect if you’re staying the night) and the Frontier
their Sunni orthodoxy – especially by dressing Constabulary fort, you’ll find a jeep track
modestly – you may enjoy some legendary that runs 30km downvalley, leading directly
Pashtun hospitality. Try out your Pashto, as to Besham.
there is little English spoken.
You get to Alai from Thakot on a road so Sights & Activities
lofty and exposed that near the top you can see The road from Banna up Sherai Khwar
about 20km of the Indus River in one sweep – (Sherai Valley) offers the best valley views.
reason enough to go. The valley is a bonus, The right fork at Karg eventually takes you
lush with cornfields, terraces and orchards, and into Rupkanai Khwar, at the head of which
rising to pine-forested mountains. The optimal is Sukai Peak (4689m). At the first bridge,
visit is probably a long day trip from Besham. about 4km from Karg, look up towards
Alai is cool even in summer, so take an Biarai, which locals consider the valley’s
extra layer. From November to April it’s very prettiest village.
cold, with snow by December. Choar is a vast alpine meadow area, as big
as Alai itself, a long day’s walk (one way) up
Orientation & Information either the Rupkanai or Nogram Khwars. It’s
The 29km Thakot to Alai road rises more accessible only from May to August, when
than one vertical kilometre. From the end of herds are driven up to it. You can camp there,
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels I N D U S K O H I S TA N • • D u b a i r Va l l e y 261
even trek across to the Kaghan Valley, but a Pattan has some of the region’s few remain-
local guide is essential – talk to locals. ing carved wooden grave markers, once com-
mon throughout Swat and Kohistan.
Sleeping & Eating
There are two resthouses and basic teashops Orientation & Information
but no hotels. The C&W resthouse is under The village is well below the Highway. A link
the jurisdiction of the executive engineer in road descends from near a KKH memorial,
Mansehra, but you might be able to get help but buses drop you almost 1km south, on a
from the Besham PTDC (%0996-400301). Arrange bluff above the village, from where you can
meals with the chowkidar (caretaker) or bring short cut straight down like everyone else.
your own food. The manager at the Kohistan Tourist Inn is
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
a helpful source of information on roads, vil-
Getting There & Away lages and people in the upper valleys.
Occasional cargo jeeps go directly up the
Alai Valley from Kund Bridge, 1.5km south Sleeping & Eating
of Besham, but the regular passenger service Kohistan Tourist Inn (%405142; KKH; s/d Rs 1000/1200)
is via Thakot, 28km south of Besham (pick- The best and biggest option for travellers in
up to Thakot Rs 30). Regular pick-ups and these parts is set on a bend of the KKH, 2km
minibuses go from Thakot to Karg every hour south of Pattan. The hotel has bright, clean
or so (Rs 60, three hours). rooms with wire-screened windows and the
friendly manager is a great source of local info.
DUBAIR VALLEY There’s a (proposed) tea garden beside the
Forty minutes and 17km north of Besham, churning Chowa Dara Khwar, which will be
a plume of bright blue liquid in the river is great for weary travellers. The hotel restaurant
actually the clear Dubair River entering the (mains Rs 50 to Rs 120) has a small vegetarian
silt-laden Indus. South of the bridge a jeep and Continental (chicken gruel!) selection
track climbs beside the stream, past terraces along with curries and Chinese favourites.
of corn guarded by scarecrows in Chitrali hats. You can get uninspiring meat and dhal
Occasional passenger pick-ups go 15km up from serais in Pattan bazaar. Shops have bis-
the canyon to Bar (Upper) Dubair village. A cuits, staples and, occasionally, fruit.
mule track reaches 20km further to the valley
head, though you should definitely get local Getting There & Away
advice before going up there. On the KKH, passenger Suzukis and pick-ups
Overlooking the Dubair River in the cen- go to Dubair or Kayal Valleys for Rs 40 and to
tre of the traffic-clogged bazaar, the Dubair Komila and Besham for Rs 55.
Rest Point Hotel (s/d Rs 200/250) is a very basic
restaurant with a few dirty rooms. The rag- PATTAN 0 200 m
0 0.1 miles
ged Dubair Bazaar has snacks, fruit and
Memorial Plaque
cold drinks.
At Jajial, 5km east of Dubair Valley, the KKH To Chowa
Dara Valley
To Kayal
Village (15km);
leaves the Indian subcontinent, geologically Hotel Dasu (31km);
Chilas (155km)
speaking. White-grey rocks south of Jajial be- Frontier
Constabulary Footbridge
long to the subcontinent, while greenish mate-
H
(Broken)
KK
ow
Indian landmass (see the boxed text, p64). a Pattan Assistant
Commissioner
s Je
Da
ra
Indu
Bazaar
Old
To
r
Gidar
Pattan (pa-taan) sits in a fertile bowl at about C&W ve
r (15km);
Resthouse Ri Bar Palas
900m where the Indus is joined by the Chowa Indus
Dara and Palas Rivers. It was the epicentre of
Palas
Palas
a massive earthquake in 1974, in which entire
sections of valley wall collapsed, burying whole To Sharakot (10km);
To Dubair Bazaar (15km);
Riv
villages and killing more than 7000 people. Besham (35km) Kuz Palas
er
262 I N D U S K O H I S TA N • • A r o u n d Pa t t a n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
The Chowa Dara (cho-wa da-rah) Valley Komila has a post office. In Dasu, 300m north
makes a good day hike, with channels, ter- of the bridge, are the police, district com-
raced fields and hamlets every few kilometres. missioner, Frontier Constabulary and C&W
A jeep road leaves the KKH north of the bus executive engineer; you can book resthouses
stop, and will eventually cover the 15km (and here and at Pattan and Besham. The district
climb 1400m) to Chowa Dara village at the forestry office, where you can book regional
head of the valley. forestry resthouses, is also in Dasu.
of road took a full year to carve out and Getting There & Away
cost more lives per kilometre to build than Minibuses go upriver to Chilas (about Rs 70,
any other part of the KKH. It was originally 1½ hours), and downriver to Besham (Rs
planned for the broad slopes across the river, 125, five to six hours), all day. This is also
but ferocious local resistance to the loss of the transfer point for the Darel and Tangir
arable land led to the road’s realignment. Valleys (below).
It’s a rocky cauldron of unforgiving heat in
summer. What’s most extraordinary is the
number of logs lying beside the road. These
logs are sold on the Highway and are sourced
GILGIT REGION
from unseen forests high above the Indus and This section begins in the southernmost unit
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
the KKH. of the NA, Diamir district. It’s best known for
At Barsin, 12km north of Dasu, a very lonely the 8125m massif of Nanga Parbat, the eighth-
four-room PTDC Motel (s/d Rs 1800/2200) is like a highest mountain in the world (Diamir is its
fort in the frontier. And that is exactly what local name). It also includes the remote Astor
it is – a refuge for travellers caught by a sink- Valley, running along the east side of Nanga
ing sun. Travel in these parts after sundown Parbat to the Indus, and 100km of the Indus
is not recommended. The rooms are recently Valley from there to the NWFP line, taking in
repainted and clean, and simple meals can be some of Pakistan’s harshest terrain and most
provided in the restaurant. A phone is com- ungovernable peoples.
ing (apparently), but for now, management Gilgit Town is the administrative headquar-
suggest booking through the Khyber Lodge ters for the NA and a major hub of the KKH.
Hotel (%0987-407102) in Dasu. This bustling town offers information, trans-
A further 10km north is the confluence port, friendly hotels and good restaurants. The
with the 80km-long Kandia Valley, a major town is an interesting melting pot of northern
Indus tributary and, until the 19th century, peoples, and there are historical spots and
an independent ministate. Ten minutes on, good walks within day-trip distance.
the Indus turns east, its dark gorge abruptly Surrounding Gilgit are some beautiful
opens out and soon the NA reaches down to valleys: Haramosh on the Indus, Bagrot just
the northern riverbank – though the Highway downriver, Naltar to the north, and the upper
remains in NWFP for a further 40km or so. Gilgit River system – comprising Punial and
At Sumer Nala, about 23km north of the the tributaries of Ishkoman, Yasin and Ghizar,
Kandia Valley bridge, you can find basic char- the last stretching west to the Shandur Pass
poy hotels at a popular truck stop, though nei- into Chitral. The lower reaches of these valleys
ther Sumer Nala or Shatial are recommended are austere and brown, though poplars and or-
places to stop. chards brighten them in spring and autumn.
But the higher you go the better it looks; many
SHATIAL glacier-fed nalas (Urdu for tributary canyons)
From the road, Shatial is an ad hoc collection above 2000m harbour pine and juniper forests
of serais, minibuses and swarms of idle men and luxuriant meadows.
(looking for casual work). Check out the petro-
glyphs below the bazaar, near the Indus bridge DAREL & TANGIR
(to Darel). They include a detailed Buddhist Two of the old unruly valley states that have
tableau and many inscriptions and travellers’ stayed unruly are Darel (da-rel) and Tangir
names, pecked into the rocks from the 1st (taan-geer), which meet the Indus across from
century AD onwards. (There is more of this Shatial. They voluntarily joined Pakistan only
extraordinary ancient graffiti along the road in 1952, and even today have the NA’s worst
from here to Chilas.) reputation for lawlessness. ‘Administration’
from Chilas mostly means police garrisons
Sleeping to keep the customary blood feuds from
Shatial Bazaar has an ultra-basic serai with boiling over.
charpoys. For cyclists, Dasu to Chilas is Reports of gun battles between locals and
the longest stretch (about 125km) of the police are common, as are travellers’ stories of
KKH without reliable or recommended theft and even rape. It’s hard to separate fact
accommodation. from fiction, but this clearly isn’t a very safe
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
0 40 km
GILGIT REGION 0 20 miles
er
See Hunza & Nagyr Map (p295) Passu
Imit
Riv
Ultar II Gulmit
sin
Nialthi (7388m)
Phakor
er
Ya
Yasin
Riv
The external boundaries of Pakistan
Chatorkhand
264 G I L G I T R E G I O N
an
za
authenticated and may not be correct.
un
KKH
kom
Aliabad
H
Mastuj River
Punial
Ish
Mastuj er Chalt
Riv Minapin
Na
Central
l
Teru Gakuch Ghulmet
ta
Ghizar
To Chitral Borsat
r
Dahimal Gupis Karakoram
Gi
Valley (50km)
Ri
Shandur National
lg
Gulagmuli Phander
ve
Diran
it
Chashi
r
Pass River Park
Ghizar Rakaposhi (7270m)
Buni Zom Sor Sherqila (7788m) KA
(6550m) Laspur Langar Singhal Nomal Miar R AK
Valley (6824m) Malubiting OR
(7458m) A M
rot
aj RA
uR Gilgit Dobani Laila
Bag
nd (6134m) (6986m)
NG
Hi E
Haramosh
See Naltar Valley & Punial Map (p281) Haramosh
Sassi (7409m)
Tangir
NORTH-WEST See Haramosh & Bagrot Jaglot
Falaksair Gumari Valleys Map (p271)
FRONTIER (5918m) Tangir
el
PROVINCE Bunji
Sumi See Indus Kohistan Map (p257) Thowar
NORTHERN
Dar
AREAS Talechi Mendi
Sh
i
Raikot
ga
Indu
Sazin s
As
Bridge
rR
a Shatial Basho
iv
tor
Kandi
er
In
er
Gonar Farm d
KKH
Chilas KKH us
Ri
Astor ver
Swat Kohistan
Skardu
Komila Nanga Tarashing Burji
Dasu Satpara
Parbat Pass
(8125m) Lake
Madyan Babusar Rupal Gudai Alampi
See Astor Valley &
Pass Dari Pass
Babusar Nanga Parbat Map (p269)
iver
Pattan
Pass
at R
Sw
Deosai
Plains
Khwazakhela Chhachor Pass
(4300m)
Karora Besham
Shangla Banna
Naran
Pass
Mingora (2134m) Thakot
lonelyplanet.com
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G I L G I T R E G I O N • • S h a t i a l t o C h i l a s 265
place to visit, and outsiders aren’t warmly wel- one in almost every side valley, each loosely
comed. It’s a pity, because the valleys are said guided by a jirga (council of tribal elders) but
to be rich in natural beauty and archaeological effectively leaderless, all at war with one another
remains. Darel was the site of some important and feuding internally. Though administratively
Buddhist monasteries. lumped with Gilgit, Chilas and its neighbours
You can hire a pick-up at Shatial or a jeep are temperamentally more like Indus Kohistan,
at Chilas, though your first stop should be probably owing to a similarly hostile environ-
the assistant commissioner or the chief of ment and the same Sunni Muslim orthodoxy
police at Tangir or Gumari. Both are about (their ancestors were forcibly converted centu-
20km from Shatial. ries ago by Pashtun crusaders, whereas hardly
anyone north of Gilgit is Sunni).
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
SHATIAL TO CHILAS The large Chilas Fort was first garrisoned to
protect British supply lines over the Babusar
Along the road, look for cave-dwelling shep- Pass, and beefed up after local tribes nearly
herds who move down to the river for the overran it in 1893. Now a police post, it has
vital water. Foreigners will need to register put a lid on Chilas, though not on the Darel
at the Chilas district boundary, 43km before and Tangir Valleys to the west.
Chilas, near where work has begun on Basha Chilasis are Shina speakers, with some
Dam. This controversial dam will submerge Pashtun settlers speaking Pashto. Urdu and
many petroglyphs that Unesco has identi- some English are also spoken.
fied as having great artistic and historical
value. Ten minutes onwards the Highway Orientation
crosses from NWFP into the NA, passing a The recommended hotels geared to travellers
line drawn on a map by Sir Cyril Radcliffe are on the KKH and the less-than-welcoming
in the feverish fortnight before Partition in town is on a plateau above. You can flag a
1947. This was the intended border between pick-up for the 3km ride up to the bazaar from
Pakistan and India, disarranged by an upris- the police checkpoint, or walk up the Buto
ing in Gilgit (see the boxed text, p275). Gah road. The bazaar huddles by the fort, with
Just 17km from the previous checkpoint, a bus yard to one side. South of the bazaar, a
foreigners need to register again at another left fork drops to district offices, while the
checkpoint. Eight kilometres further is Thor right fork climbs towards Babusar Pass.
(pronounced ‘tore’), a green oasis in the arid
valley. Below the bridge over Thor Gah are Information
some rock inscriptions. Twenty minutes on, On the road to the bazaar is the NAPWD
across the river, the remains of a 1000-year- executive engineer, where district resthouses
old fort are on a ridge to the right of a ra- can be booked. The post office is opposite the
vine called Hodur Gah. The rocks below the fort, which houses the police post. A district
fort are covered with old inscriptions. hospital is at the bottom of Hospital Rd.
West of Chilas the Indus is flat and me-
andering. On the south side, the Lesser Sights & Activities
Himalaya stretches 80km towards Punjab. Local police are usually happy to show guests
On the north side are the Hindu Raj, the around the fort, where they are stationed. Your
eastern arm of the Hindukush. From Hodur, hotel manager may be able to help organise
20 minutes west of Chilas, take your first this. The interesting stone-filled wooden bat-
look at Nanga Parbat. tlements with gun sights are crumbling away
and the blackened kitchen looks as if it’s been
CHILAS in use since 1893.
%05812 Chilas is surrounded by wonderful petro-
Most visitors are here to look at the petro- glyphs, which are easy to access, though be pre-
glyphs or to cross the Babusar Pass (see p255). pared for high temperatures and take plenty
There are few other reasons to stop. Foreign of water (see the boxed text, p267).
women especially may feel unwelcome.
Even after Kashmiri-British rule was imposed Sleeping & Eating
a century ago, the Indus Valley west of Chilas On the KKH (and nearest the petroglyphs)
was a hornet’s nest of tiny republics; there was are several midrange tourist hotels with hot
266 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • C h i l a s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
CHILAS 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
A B C D
7
Indu INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
s R District Hospital............................1 A2 Chilas Fort....................................5 B2
iver
NAPWD Executive Engineer.........2 B2 Chilas I Petroglyph Site................6 D2
1 National Bank...............................3 B2 Chilas II Petroglyph Site................7 A1
Police
Checkpoint 15 Police Post.................................(see 5) Petroglyphs..................................8 D2
Post Office...................................4 B2
SLEEPING
To Besham 12 Diamond Peak..............................9 B2
14
(200km) 10 Grace Continental Hotel &
11
Restaurant..............................10 B1
Hotel Chilas Inn..........................11 B1
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Ka
Karakurum Inn............................12 B1
Airstrip
rak NAPWD Resthouse....................13 A2
ora
m
Hw
Panorama Hotel & Restaurant.....14 B1
y Shangrila Indus View..................15 B1
1
TRANSPORT
2 Bus Yard.....................................16 B2
2 Rocks
5 6
Ra
no 16 9
iR 8
13 d 4
3
Ba
h
zaa
Ga
r
to
To Thalpan
Bu
Village (1km)
showers (a moot point in this cauldron of are clean and spacious, and the restaurant
rocks where summer temperatures often ex- (breakfast Rs 120, lunch Rs 225 and dinner
ceed 40ºC) and good restaurants. The evapo- Rs 280) has generous set meals of local and
rative air coolers common to these Highway Continental dishes.
hotels are effective in the dry heat and don’t Grace Continental Hotel & Restaurant (%50516;
overly draw on the limited electricity. The ho- KKH; s/d Rs 800/1000) The Grace Continental has
tels up in the bazaar can be foreigner-friendly small air-cooled rooms with squat toilets and
but the same can’t necessarily be said for their cold shower. The rooms are poorly ventilated
regular clientele. In these cheap local inns, the and rather smelly and overpriced. The res-
rooms are basic and the bedding dirty. taurant (mains Rs 45 to Rs 60) produces in-
Diamond Peak (s/d Rs 150/200) Probably the best expensive dhal, chicken and mutton curries
of the very basic hotels in the bazaar. and chapatis.
The NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300) is good, but Hotel Chilas Inn (%50510; KKH; d standard/deluxe
very popular in summer. Other NAPWD rest- Rs 800/1200) The staff here is very helpful and
houses are east of Chilas at Jalipur, Gonar informative and there’s a gift shop in the foyer.
Farm and Gini (off the Highway), and there’s The rooms of this recommended hotel are air-
a primitive resthouse at Babusar village on the cooled and there’s a nice surprise in the bath-
Kaghan Valley road, the only one that closes rooms – a bathtub. There’s a good restaurant
in winter. All can be booked in Chilas with (mains Rs 120 to Rs 200) with Pakistani and
the executive engineer. Chinese dishes, and a pleasant rose garden in
Karakurum Inn (%50511; KKH; dm/s/d Rs 100/600/700) which to relax once the sun has retreated.
The friendly staff here are happy to help for- Shangrila Indus View (% 50539; KKH; s/d Rs
eigners visit the petroglyph sites and Chilas 1095/1195, s/d deluxe Rs 2500/2700, s/d VIP Rs 3000/3495)
village. While local assistance or advice may The budget rooms are overpriced as they lack
not be necessary, it is certainly recommended. a view and show wear and tear. The deluxe
The air-cooled rooms at the Karakurum Inn rooms are rather similar but do have wire-
lonelyplanet.com G I L G I T R E G I O N • • C h i l a s t o G i l g i t 267
screened verandas and a river view. The VIP to hire one in Gilgit. For information about
rooms have attractive mock-traditional décor the Babusar Pass, see p255.
of mud walls, double beds and a tub in the
bathroom, and are definitely the best rooms in CHILAS TO GILGIT
Chilas. All rooms are air-cooled. The recom- About 12km beyond Chilas a cavalcade of
mended restaurant (mains from Rs 150) has liveried trucks and rambling teashops signals
Pakistani, Chinese and Continental cuisine. the popular truck stop of Gini. A further 13km
Panorama Hotel & Restaurant (%50664; KKH; s/d and the Highway passes through Bunar Das, an
Rs 1600/1800, s/d deluxe Rs 1500/2000) The Panorama’s oasis of green fields and fruit trees hemmed
aspect over the valley is very pleasing and the in by stone walls. The village is situated on
wide, wire-screened verandas are comfort-
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
a plateau below the Bunar Gah, the main
able vantage points. All rooms are air-cooled, access to Nanga Parbat’s western (Diamir)
and the 10 deluxe rooms have tubs in the face. After Bunar Das the Highway bisects the
bathroom. There is a good restaurant (mains small settlements of Gonar Farm and Jalipur
Rs 70 to Rs 125) with numerous fried rice before reaching the notorious ‘sliding area’ of
dishes such as the tasty beef chilli fried rice Tatta Pani, 6km before Raikot Bridge.
for Rs 70. The Highway crosses the Indus on Raikot
Bridge, just over an hour (55km) east of
Getting There & Away Chilas. From the south side of the bridge a
Minibuses (Rs 130) run every few hours be- private road has been driven up the moun-
tween the bus yard and Gilgit’s general bus tainside towards the pristine alpine plateau
stand. A minibus to Shatial is Rs 70. Local called Fairy Meadow, with heart-stopping
pick-ups will take you from the Chilas bus views up Nanga Parbat’s north side, and
yard to the KKH for a few rupees, or on north to Rakaposhi peak.
to Hodur, Thor or Shatial. Through buses The road was built with logging in mind,
to Rawalpindi pass about four hours after but subsequent plans for a resort at the mead-
departing Gilgit. ows (the Shangrila Motel by the bridge was to
be a ‘holding pen’ for resort guests) got some
BABUSAR PASS & KAGHAN VALLEY backs up. Local people, through whose land
A Natco vehicle leaves from near the post the road runs, offer jeep transport to Fairy
office early each morning (in summer only) Point (one way/return Rs 1500/3000) – the
and goes up to Babusar village along the up- end of the road. For more on trekking in this
graded road through Thak Nala. You might area, see p348.
be able to hire a jeep to Naran (in the Kaghan Five minutes north of the bridge, the
Valley) from the bus yard, but a surer way is small Liachar Nala enters the Indus. In 1841
an earthquake caused an entire valley wall to The India-Pakistan Line of Control has closed
collapse into the Indus here, damming it up. the Burzil, but Astor is still the best way to get
When the dam broke, a wall of water roared up close to the mountain. Four-wheel drives
down the canyon, washing away scores of vil- regularly fell off the track until it was im-
lages and drowning thousands, including an proved. It’s now wider and safer, but probably
entire Sikh army battalion camped at Attock, no more comfortable.
almost 500km downstream. Astor Valley is about 75% Sunni and 25%
Midway between Chilas and Gilgit (1½ hours Shiite, the latter mainly in the upper tributar-
from each) and 2km south of the village of Talechi ies. Everyone speaks Shina and almost no-
(ta-li-chee), is the turn-off to Astor Valley. The body speaks English. Some food is available in
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
area around Talechi has the best views of the Astor, but if you’re going further or camping
largest number of snowy peaks anywhere on it’s a good idea to bring some supplies.
the KKH. From the north, the prominent ones
are Rakaposhi (7788m; a sharp point above Talechi to Astor Village
a broad white base), Dobani (6134m; a blunt The road from Talechi near the mouth of
pyramid), Haramosh (7409m; a series of glaci- the valley starts off impressively but is soon
ated ridges) and Nanga Parbat (8125m). squeezed onto the crumbling sides of the bar-
Thirteen kilometres north of Talechi is the ren, slide-prone gorge. It’s an oven in sum-
old bridge and road to Astor Valley via Bunji, mer, but grows lovelier as you climb. There’s a
once the Maharaja of Kashmir’s local garri- foreigner registration point 13km in at Doian,
son, now headquarters of the Northern Light not long after which the road traverses a dan-
Infantry (NLI). A further 4km brings you to gerous slipping area.
Jaglot (juh-glote) bazaar and after another 5km At 2450m Astor village is perched like an
there is a whitewashed monument signalling eagle’s nest on both sides of Rama Gah (ra-
the junction of the Indus and Hunza Rivers, vine). The bazaar is up a steep track on the
and so the meeting point of the Karakoram, north side of the ravine, and the valley road
Hindukush and Himalayan Ranges. Another continues on the south side. The police ask
4km further on (an hour south of Gilgit), the foreigners to register on arrival; the station is
Skardu road leaves the KKH. in the bazaar. Above the bazaar is the NAPWD
executive engineer, where you can book valley
Sleeping & Eating resthouses. A post office is across the ravine,
At Raikot Bridge is the Shangrila Motel (s/d near the polo ground.
Rs 1500/1800), an expensive option that is
theoretically open from June through to SLEEPING & EATING
mid-October. Do not rely on it being open, Dreamland Tourist Inn (s/d Rs 200/300) At the top of
though; ring the Shangrila Indus View (%05812- the main bazaar, this place has a decent local
50539) in Chilas. An alternative is 15km north restaurant and bathrooms with cold shower.
at the beautifully sited NAPWD resthouse (d Rs There’s also a small garden.
300) in Talechi. It can be booked through Kamran Hotel (%05817-51111; s/d Rs 400/600) A
the executive engineer in Chilas or the chief few metres down the hill from Dreamland,
engineer (%05811-50307) in Gilgit. There are the Kamran is slightly more upmarket with
several shabby inns at Jaglot. small though comfortable rooms with morn-
ing hot water. The Kamran is your best bet
ASTOR VALLEY & NANGA PARBAT for finding a room either side of the peak
The Nanga Parbat massif is the western anchor summer season. The restaurant (mains Rs 40
of the Great Himalaya. Its south (Rupal) face is to Rs 80) does well with the limited supplies
a sheer 4500m wall, too steep for snow to stick – available up here.
hence its name, Urdu for ‘Naked Mountain’. On the south side of Rama Gah is an NAPWD
The north (Raikot) face steps down 7000m to resthouse (d Rs 300), which can be booked with
the Indus. A large number of climbers have the executive engineer here or the chief engi-
been killed trying to scale this mountain. neer (%05811-50307) in Gilgit.
The hair-raising track beside it, up the
Astor Valley and over the Burzil Pass, was Rama Lake
the only link between British India and Gilgit Above Astor village is the steep and very beau-
until the Babusar Pass was opened in 1892. tiful Rama Gah, with scattered hamlets and
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G I L G I T R E G I O N • • A s t o r Va l l e y & N a n g a Pa r b a t 269
Site of
Raikot 1841
Bridge Landslide
KKH
Mushkin
Lia
ch
ar
ver Na
Indus Ri Bu la
ld
ar
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Raiko
River
t Gah
Jalipur
ge
Harcho
Muthat
id
To Chilas
Tato
Asto
Jalipur
(20km)
H
r
KK
pu
r
Jhel
Bul
li
Ga
Ja
g e
Bunar Das Gonar
dar
High
h
Va
Fairy Camp (4965m)
Ri d
Rid
Meadow
lle
Go
Patro
y
Nth Jalipur
na
ge
Lotang
r
(5215m)
Bunar Ga h
Beyal Kent
Glacier Rama Rama Gah
R a i k ho t G
Shaichi Buldar
ra
Glacier Astor
High Khutsu Pass ge
Buldar Rid
Gah
ng
Camp (4837m)
Ga
(5602m) Chongra ma
Ra
h
h o
Base (6830m) c ie
r
Gutum
l
Gla Rama
ac
C
i
Nanga Parbat
aci
Chorit
Pass
Ba zhi n
Gah
hi G
Ratu
al
Rup
e
Mazeno e
dg
hic
Base Camp
Ri
Shaigiri
id
Ch
Gah
R
al
hi
up
i er R
ic
Gl a c
hh
Tos ha i n ( Ru p a l)
C
To Deosai Plains;
Line of Control
(60km)
thick pine and birch forest. A steep track starts here is a large and incongruous PTDC Motel
from Astor bazaar. In a big meadow two to 2½ (s/d Rs 1200/1500) with the expected comfortable
hours up, take the left-hand track and walk for rooms and hot water. Check with the PTDC
an hour past the treeline to Rama Lake. It’s (%05811-54262; c/o PTDC Chinar Inn, Babar Rd) in Gilgit
about 1km higher than Astor village, and is to confirm when it is open.
considerably cooler in all seasons. From here
you can see Rama Ridge, a minor shoulder of Upper Astor Valley
Nanga Parbat, and the Sachen Glacier (not to The upper valley is a worthy destination in
be confused with the Siachen Glacier in the its own right and also works well as a side
High Karakoram). trip to Deosai Plains jeep safaris. Good walks
start from upvalley villages including Gurikot
SLEEPING & EATING (9km beyond Astor), Rampur and Tarashing.
There is excellent camping at the meadow and A track towards the Deosai Plains (p291) goes
at the lake. At the meadow there’s a modest up Chilim Gah, just above Gurikot.
NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300), which can be booked The track to Britain’s old Burzil Pass
through the executive engineer in Astor or route to Kashmir branches south up Ratu
the chief engineer (%05811-50307) in Gilgit. Also Gah, about 15km from Gurikot (Ratu Gah
270 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • A s t o r Va l l e y & N a n g a Pa r b a t Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
NANGA PARBAT
An unmistakable feature of the region is massive Nanga Parbat, 8125m high and rising by
7mm every year, faster than almost any other part of the Himalaya chain. The sharpest eleva-
tion differences found anywhere on earth are here: almost seven vertical kilometres from the
summit into the adjacent Indus gorge, and the mountain’s sheer, unbroken 4000m south wall
(the Rupal face).
Nanga Parbat sits atop a mass of ancient Indian Plate rocks, sticking oddly northwards
into the volcanic-island material of the Kohistan Complex. Its unusual position and growth
are still matters of active research; explanations involve the dynamics of the entire Himalayan
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
system.
At Liachar Valley, about 4km upstream from the Raikot Bridge over the Indus (between Gilgit
and Chilas), across from the KKH, you can see the grey pre-Cambrian granite of the Indian Plate,
hundreds of millions of years old, pushed over on top of river sediments less than 100,000 years
old. This reversal is part of the continuing disruption as Nanga Parbat rises.
approaches the Line of Control and is there- idyllic summer pasture with an awesome
fore off limits). view of Nanga Parbat’s south face. It is also
Tarashing is about 40km from Astor and the starting point for a longer, technical trek
2911m high, beneath Nanga Parbat’s naked across Mazeno La.
Rupal face (though it’s not in full view). The Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Karakoram
village sits in a spectacular piece of real estate & Hindukush has further details on these and
amid massive glaciers flowing from the moun- other treks around Nanga Parbat.
tain massif. From here you can day-hike up
the moraine (glacial rubble) for a good look at SLEEPING & EATING
the Rupal face, the Tarashing Glacier, across Tarashing is the only village in the valley with
the glacier and on up Rupal Gah, or across accommodation, although new hotels are
Rupal Gah to Zaipur village, at the top of which planned for Rupal village and the road’s end.
are water channels on huge wooden towers said Hotel Nanga Parbat (Tarashing; camping Rs 100,
to be 400 to 500 years old. It is important to r downstairs/upstairs Rs 400/500) Has a big gar-
note that local police regulations currently do den and rooms with shared bathroom and
not allow unaccompanied foreigners to venture cold shower.
beyond Tarashing (for their own safety). Rupal Hotel (Tarashing; camping Rs 100, r downstairs/
Beyond Tarashing the Rupal Valley is domi- upstairs Rs 400/500) The similar Rupal has a walled
nated by Nanga Parbat’s Rupal face that compound in which to pitch a tent.
sweeps 4572m upwards in the world’s great-
est vertical rise from a base camp to a summit. Getting There & Away
Staggeringly close-up views of Nanga Parbat Natco has a daily bus to Astor (Rs 130), de-
are possible from several vantage points in parting from Gilgit’s general bus stand. A
the valley. A recently constructed road ex- Natco bus also leaves Astor for Rawalpindi
tends beyond Tarashing and Rupal village to (Rs 700, 16 hours) at 11am. Other minibuses
within less than an hour’s easy walk of its bound for Astor (Rs 130) infrequently leave
base camp, Herrligkoffer Base Camp (3550m), a from near the Diamir Hotel in Gilgit. Astor
beautiful meadow with a large spring along is four to five hours from Gilgit.
the Bazhin Glacier. It’s named for Dr Karl You can hire a jeep in Astor for the round
M Herrligkoffer, the leader of eight German trip to Rama Lake for about Rs 1200. Cargo
expeditions to Nanga Parbat, including the and passenger jeeps run daily from Astor
first successful expedition in 1953. to Tarashing (Rs 60, 1½ hours), departing
From the base camp, you can go on a sporadically from no particular place in the
half-day walk across the Bazhin Glacier to bazaar – ask around and you will be shown.
Latobah (3530m), the broad, level meadow Tarashing–Astor vehicles depart daily between
frequented by Rupal shepherds directly be- 6.30am and 7am. The road is only metalled
neath the main summit. An overnight trek halfway from Astor to the junction with the
goes further upvalley to Shaigiri (3655m), an road across the Deosai Plains.
lonelyplanet.com G I L G I T R E G I O N • • H a r a m o s h Va l l e y 271
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
ing, but alpine meadows and the glaciers at speaking, Shiite Bagrotis see few foreigners
the feet of Haramosh and other giants await other than passing trekkers.
trekkers; see Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Oshikandas is a mainly Ismaili village on the
Karakoram & Hindukush for details on these road from Gilgit. Across the river is Jalalabad.
and other treks. Bagrot’s main village is Sinakkar, two hours
There is no recommended accommodation from Gilgit. At the end of the jeep road, 1½
beyond the Highway. Sassi has several seedy hours on, is the last year-round village, Chirah,
Rakaposhi
(7788m) Diran
(7270m)
Hinarche
Glacier
To Karimabad
(65km)
Miar
Gah Burche Glacier (6824m)
Darchan Bulche Dar
Chirah Gargoh
Farphu Rakhan Gali
(4548m) Malubiting
Datuche
(7458m)
lley
Hu
KK
Va
H
n
za
Sultanabad
rot
Sinakkar
Bag
Dobani
Ri
(6134m) Basha
ve
r
Glacier
Dainyor
Oshikandas Barche
Gure
Gilgit
Iskere
Dassu
Valley
Jalalabad mosh
Hara Mani
Nala Glacier
ti al
Ju
Haramosh
(7409m)
Gi Sassi
lgi
tR
ive Rd
er
r Riv
du
s
ar
du
Sk
In
Parthab
Bridge To Skardu
(85km)
KK
H
Jaglot
To Astor (45km);
Chilas (80km) To Bunji (5km)
272 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • G i l g i t T o w n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
with a view of Hinarche Glacier and a series tles erupted around Gilgit during 1992 to 1994
of ridges culminating in Diran Peak (7270m). and, after a long period of relative calm, again
Nagyr is on the other side. The prominent in 2005. Since then, the overwhelming pres-
peak to the southeast is 6134m Dobani. ence of heavily armed police and army has
From Chirah there’s a spectacular trek up become everyday normality, though it can be
to Diran Base Camp (see p346). In another di- quite a shock for visitors.
rection, four to five hours’ walking will bring Gilgit is becoming a city, its headlong
you to Dar, and the same distance on again is growth owing more to its position on modern
Gargoh. These are seasonal villages where a trade routes to China and Central Asia than
large part of the valley’s population migrates to tourism. There is always talk (but little ac-
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
with their goats and sheep each summer. tion) of extending the airport runway to allow
Hikers (some trekkers, but day hikers too) jets to land, but basic public services such as
go as far as Gargoh (ie a day east of Chirah) electricity and water haven’t kept pace with
but not across Rakhan Gali. Lonely Planet’s the town’s growth.
Trekking in the Karakoram & Hindukush has
further details on this and other treks. Orientation
The town is beside the Gilgit River, 10km west
Sleeping of the KKH. A back road also comes from the
Perched on a ledge up above Chirah, with post- KKH at Dainyor via bridges over the Hunza
card-perfect views of Diran and the Hinarche and Gilgit Rivers, saving 10km for those com-
Glacier, the basic Bagrote Sarai (camping Rs 100, r Rs ing from the north.
500) is literally at the end of the road. There’s The bazaar is essentially a 2km street full of
a panoramic dining hall in which to unwind, shops. Shopkeepers from nearby areas clus-
and above it the simple rooms are arranged on ter together; eg in Khazana (Bank) Rd for
terraces (you can lie in bed and look out at the Nagyr and in Jamaat Khana Bazaar for Hunza.
mountains). The bathrooms are in a separate Southwest up Khazana Rd are government
building and there are more terraces above the offices; further up are several villages, the big-
rooms where you can pitch a tent. gest of which is Barmas. The airport is east
of the main bazaar. Southeast is the military
Getting There & Away cantonment of Jutial.
From Garhi Bagh in Gilgit, cargo jeeps go in Some roads have two names, one common
the early morning to Chirah via Dainyor in and one official: eg Jamaat Khana Bazaar (Sir
under an hour. A better bet is to go by Suzuki Aga Khan Rd), Bank Rd (Khazana Rd) and
to Dainyor, where you can pick up a ‘special’ Hospital Rd (Allama Iqbal Rd) – official
taxi to Chirah (Rs 70). Avoid jeeps to Sinakkar, names are in parentheses.
which isn’t far enough. Travel Walji’s (%05811-
52665; www.waljis.com; Airport Rd) in Gilgit organises Information
overnight trips and local hikes. Expect to pay BOOKSHOPS
Rs 2500 for the jeep and driver. Gilgit Serena Hotel (%55894; Jutial) With GM Baig
& Son closed, the best place to buy books on the NA is the
GILGIT TOWN shop in the lobby of this top-end hotel.
%05811 / elevation 1500m North News Agency (Madina Market) Modest collection
Gilgit’s dusty bazaar is not particularly colour- of NA books in English.
ful but it’s lively and eclectic, filled with peo-
ple drawn from Karachi to Kashgar. It’s not EMERGENCY
unusual to hear Uyghur, Wakhi, Burushaski, Police Headquarters (%53356) The Senior Super-
Khowar and Pashto; Urdu and English are intendent of Police (SSP) is across the Gilgit River by the
also widely spoken. Jinnah Bridges.
The town wakes early to muezzins in
scores of mosques calling the faithful to dawn FOREIGNERS’ REGISTRATION
prayers. The major Muslim branches – Shiite, Foreigners’ Registration Office (FRO; Yadgar Chowk;
Sunni and Ismaili – overlap here, with sectar- h8am-3pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8am-noon Fri Apr-Sep,
ian tensions just under the surface. In 1988 9am-3.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri Oct-Mar)
Sunni–Shiite hostility exploded into virtual Authorities in Gilgit are still requesting registration for
warfare at Jalalabad in Bagrot. Sectarian bat- travellers staying for more than 15 days in the NA – despite
0 400 m
GILGIT TOWN 0 0.2 miles
Rd
A B C College D E F
To Dainyor &
Riv KKH (10km)
To Gakuch (70km); Gupis er View
(110km); Ishkoman (120km); Rd
Yasin (120km); Chitral (366km) Sabzi
Mandi River
lonelyplanet.com
23 46 Gilgit
1 56 Polo River View Rd
Punial
Rd Ground Kashmiri
24
Pul Rd
Bazaar Garhi Bagh Northern Areas 15
Rd
To Kargah Kakakhel Council
Nala (5km) General Store Raja B
azaar Sad 25 48 Abdul Ra
b Nishta
Army Public r Rd Town
21
Bazadar
ar 26
a (Bank)
58 29 NLI 22 School Hall
45 18 Market 34 Chinar Jinnah
55 30
16 59 41 47 Bagh Park 28 Bridges
Khazan
Ch
Hunza 10
Rd
2 13 33 ina
To Vision
Chowk
k
Cinema rG
in
To Kargah Nala 11 14 ard 27 International
12
lL
1 49 Bazaar e n Rd 38
a
(5km) Eye Hospital
7 Madina
aar a
Khazana (500m)
my
Market 53
aat
(Bank) Rd 57 Ba
Do
Baz Khan
Colonel NLI 35 ba
Chowk
Jam
Hassan 42 r R
d
4 JSR
Market 32
Aga Khan Rural
d
2 Plaza
Makka Support Programme
kR
5 Market (AKRSP)
51
Lin
17 Hospital Rd Air
54 po
gh
rt R
a
Nasseem 40 d
rB
Old Polo Chowk 9
Ground Airport
ina
44 Terminal
Ch
20 50 52
To Barmas To Jutial (500m); Askari Bakery (700m);
Village (500m) Airport Rd Bank Alfalah (1km); Horizon Guest House
43 37 (1.2km); Travel Plus; General Bus
19 Stand (3km)
INFORMATION Public Call Office (PCO)...............17 A2 New Tourist Cottage.........................35 E2 am
31 Airport e -Az
Alam & Co Money Exchange.......1 C2 Soneri Bank...................................18 B1 North Inn..........................................36 F3 Chowk Shahrah-e- aid-
Quaid-e-Azam Qu 39
Comsats.......................................2 A2 Travel Walji’s............................... 19 D3 Park Hotel........................................37 D3 h-e-
a
Khomer hahr 8
Deputy Commissioner's Office.....3 F4 Women’s Hospital.......................20 A2 PTDC Chinar Inn...............................38 E2 Chowk S
3 Deputy Director Fisheries Northern Rupal Inn..........................................39 F3 To Jutial (500m);
Gilgit Serena
Areas.......................................4 A2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Top Moon Hotel.............................. 40 D2 36
Ri
az Hotel (1km)
District Hospital............................5 A2 British Cemetery............................21 B1 Yadgar
Chowk
Rd
Fairy Meadow Tours................(see 31) Gohar Aman's Tower...................22 C1 EATING 6 Inset same scale as main map
Foreigners’ Registration Office Imamia Mosque............................23 A1 Askari Bakery....................................41 C1
(FRO).......................................6 E3 Jama Mosque...............................24 B1 Baig's Restaurant..............................42 C2 Trekking Equipment & Gift Shop....(see 33)
Gilgit Municipal Library................7 A2 Moti Mosque................................25 B1 Green Dragon................................(see 31) Xama Stores.....................................52 D2
Golden Peak Tours.......................8 F3 Uprising Memorial........................26 D1 Marshal Bakery & General Store....... 43 D3 Sh
ah
rah
Ideal Net Café..............................9 D2 Walk & Ride Pakistan.................(see 57) North Pole Traders...........................44 D2 TRANSPORT -e-
Qu
Ladies Public Toilets...................10 C2 Salar Restaurant................................45 B1 K-2 Tours.......................................(see 13) aid
-e- 3
Madina Guides........................(see 33) SLEEPING Yoghurt Shops..................................46 B1 Mashabrum Tours............................53 C2 Aza
m
Men's public Toilets.................(see 47) Canopy Nexus..............................27 F2 Minibuses to Astor...........................54 C2
NAPWD Chief Engineer..............11 B2 Gilgit Continental Hotel................28 E1 SHOPPING Minibuses to Chalt, Thol & Minapin..55 B1
4 National Bank............................12 A2 Golden Peak Hotel & Restaurant...29 B1 Hunza Computers.............................47 C1 Natco Bus Yard for Punial &
National Bank............................13 C2 Hotel Riveria.................................30 E1 Javed Digital Color Lab.....................48 B1 Westwards...................................56 A1
North News Agency...................14 C2 Jamal Hotel.................................. 31 D3 JJ Color Lab Kodak Express.............. 49 C2 PIA Booking Office...........................57 C2 See
Inset
Police Headquarters....................15 E1 JSR Hotel.....................................32 C2 Karakoram Mountaineering Private Buses for Punial &
Post Office..................................16 B1 Madina Hotel & Guest House......33 C2 Equipment................................... 50 D2 Westwards...................................58 A1
PTDC Office............................(see 38) Mir's Lodge..................................34 D1 Longlife Mountaineering Equipment..51 C2 Shehnaz Cycle Co.............................59 B1
G I L G I T R E G I O N • • G i l g i t T o w n 273
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
274 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • G i l g i t T o w n lonelyplanet.com
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Hassan. On 1 November Babar Khan arrested Governor Ghansar Singh and the rebels asked to
join Pakistan.
Within a few days the Scouts, with Muslim soldiers of the Kashmiri army, joined the war
with India. In the following months the Scouts took Baltistan, and Hassan got to the outskirts
of Srinagar.
The fledgling Indian air force at one point bombed Gilgit, no easy task in the narrow valleys.
Gilgitis like to tell the story of the Scouts’ pipe band, which mocked the Indian pilots by defiantly
tootling up and down the airfield the whole time.
Memories of the ‘Uprising’ are still alive in Gilgit. Hassan, Babar and another leader of the
Gilgit Scouts, Maj Safiullah Beg, are buried in the town’s shady municipal park, Chinar Bagh, and
many of their offspring are local politicians and entrepreneurs. Of course, it’s not 14 August but 1
November that Gilgit celebrates as Independence Day, with spontaneous music and dancing and
a week-long polo tournament. One of the best polo teams every year is from the Gilgit garrison
of the Northern Light Infantry (NLI), successor to the Gilgit Scouts.
game by taking a ball and stick in one hand and galloping up the field towards the other
team like a man possessed. At the halfway line he throws the ball up and, with a bit of skill,
hits it far towards the opposition’s goal. Horses foam at the bit, sticks clash together and
players hang off their mounts to get into the best position to smack the ball. Whenever play
nears the sidelines, spectators flee for their lives as balls and mallets fly through the air. The
aim is of course to score a goal, whereupon a band of drummers and pipers goes mad, and
the teams change ends.
Traditionally the game continues until one team has scored nine goals, but nowadays an hour’s
play with a 10- or 15-minute halftime break is the norm. If a horse or player is injured and forced
to retire, his opposite number must also leave the game.
Northern polo ponies are beautiful animals with astonishing stamina (there are no horse
changes), but mountain polo can be a cruel game. Horses are routinely hit or cut by balls mov-
ing at blinding speed, or by mallets. Apparently several horses drop dead of heart failure every
season, in the middle of games.
Following is a list of the best places and times to catch a game:
Gilgit, from April to early May and in October and November, especially the Uprising Day
tournament in the first week of November.
Skardu, especially the Pakistan Independence Day tournament in the second week of August.
Chitral, in late May or during the district tournament in mid-September.
Shandur Pass, the world’s highest polo ground, during the Chitral versus Gilgit tournament
each July. This dates from 1936, and has been an annual, heavily touristed event since 1989.
Most sizable travel agencies in Gilgit and Chitral and a number of national agencies now have
package tours, and their own Shandur encampments, for the event.
Golden Peak occupies the garden and old with basic and bearably grungy rooms and a
summer house of the mir (traditional ruler) smile at reception. But that’s about as much
of Nagyr. Unfortunately, the rooms in the old as can be said for it.
wing are too dark, damp and dingy to offer Madina Hotel & Guest House (%53536; www
a historically interesting nap. The bare ‘new’ .madinaguides.com; NLI Chowk; dm/d without bathroom
rooms are only marginally better. Rs 130/240, d Rs 340;i) With the perennially
New Tourist Cottage (%54255; Chinar Bagh Link Rd; obliging Yaqoob managing it, the Madina re-
camping Rs 50, dm/s/d Rs 100/170/250) As well as the mains the international travellers’ favourite.
cheap rates, one of the best aspects of this place Rooms vary but all are kept spotless. There’s
is the tranquil overgrown garden. The rooms a basic restaurant dishing up a few travel-
here are basic affairs with huge bathrooms ler favourites, and invaluable assistance with
with reliable hot water. All are kept clean. No onward transport, tours, trekking, visa exten-
longer Japanese run, the new manager, Israr, sions etc is generously provided. This is the
plans to keep the Japanese menu and library, home of the Madina Guides trekking and tour
and has promised to replace the very steep operation (see p274).
stairs that some guests find challenging. North Inn (%55545; Khomer Chowk; s/d Rs 250/350)
JSR Hotel (%52308; JSR Plaza; s/d Rs 200/300) The Travellers once gave high marks to the North
unadorned JSR is not the worst budget choice, Inn, but lack of patronage has seen standards
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G I L G I T R E G I O N • • G i l g i t T o w n 277
slip. The once pleasant garden is a shambles private and peaceful compound. There’s a
and overall there is a feeling of neglect here. standard PTDC restaurant, of course, and a
Cheaper rooms are available downstairs – basic information and travel desk.
make an offer. Rupal Inn (%55471; Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam Rd; s/d
Jamal Hotel (%53788; Airport Rd; s/d Rs 450/550) The Rs 1400/2000, deluxe Rs 1800/2550) This large 48-room
tidy doubles here are pretty good value and hotel is clearly designed for tour groups and
the attached Green Dragon Chinese restaurant makes for an exceptionally comfortable stay –
(see p278) does acceptable Chinese dishes. all the better if you negotiate a discount.
There’s a pleasant garden for barbecues as
MIDRANGE well as a multicuisine restaurant and coffee
shop. The carpeted, very spacious rooms
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Park Hotel (%53379; Airport Rd; s/d Rs 400/650, s/d deluxe
Rs 550/850) These rates make the standard rooms come with TVs and bathtubs and are the
good value but rooms in the old wing can be a roomiest in Gilgit.
bit gloomy, so inspect a few. Most rooms have Canopy Nexus (%51011; www.canopynexus.com; River
TVs and are well kept. The restaurant is also View Rd; d Rs 2000-5000; s) The ‘resort over the river’
gloomy but manages a few local dishes on top has funky cabins right on the riverbank. The
of the usual Chinese and Pakistani dishes. cabins are lavishly decorated and almost luxu-
Mir’s Lodge (%52875; Domyal Link Rd; s/d without TV rious but don’t quite hit the mark. The bath-
Rs 600/750, s/d with TV Rs 750/800) The TV-equipped rooms are tiny but adequate and the restaurant
rooms are downstairs and so are considerably is above average for Gilgit. Unfortunately, the
cooler in summer; in addition, some down- peculiar fish-shaped swimming pool was not
stairs rooms have double beds. All rooms functioning at the time of research.
have a telephone. There’s a decent restaurant
churning out Pakistani and Chinese meals. TOP END
oHorizon Guest House (%55288; www Gilgit Serena Hotel (%55894; fax 55900; Jutial; s/d
.losthorizontreks.com; Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam Rd; s/d/tr Rs 5500/6500; ai) Gilgit Serena is the best
Rs 900/1200/1400; i) This excellent guesthouse hotel in town, superbly sited above town and
with five spick-and-span rooms is run by trek- giving views across the valley to Rakaposhi
king guides Abdul Bari Rana and Ty Gordon, peak. The cosy, plush rooms have TV, phone
who also run Lost Horizon Treks & Tours and balcony views. The service is excellent,
(see p274) from here. It’s in a quiet area of breakfast is included in the tariff, and there
Jutial, about 400m east of Heli Chowk, set is a free shuttle bus for guests visiting the
well back from the road. Look for the large bazaar or catching a flight from the airport.
Family Health Hospital and then the sign to There’s an excellent restaurant (Dumani) and
the guesthouse. nightly barbecues in the garden are of interest
Hotel Riveria (%54184; River View Rd; s/d Rs to nonguests (see below).
1000/1300) This welcoming hotel is agree-
ably located down by the river in its own Eating
compound. The high-ceilinged older-style RESTAURANTS
rooms have been renovated and are great The most reliable (in terms of hygiene) res-
value. The downstairs rooms remain cool in taurants are in the popular hotels, where you
summer and the orchard/garden is a perfect may soon tire of seeing the usual suspects
peaceful retreat. on the menu. There is absolutely no alcohol
Gilgit Continental Hotel (%58231; River View Rd; s/d available in Gilgit, even in top-end hotels, so
Rs 1200/1600) The rooms here are spacious, cool don’t bother asking.
and clean, and some boast river views. There Salar Restaurant (Saddar Bazaar; mains Rs 30-160;
is a restaurant and occasional rooftop barbe- h9am-10pm) Has Pakistani standards and
cues with entertainment by local musicians in interesting ‘Chinese’ items – eg mantou
summer. Children under 12 years are free and (steamed buns) and strange but tasty fried
there are big discounts for long-term guests. noodles – in clean, low-key surroundings.
PTDC Chinar Inn (%54262; Chinar Garden Rd; s/d Rs Baig’s Restaurant (Airport Rd; mains Rs 35-160; h9am-
1300/1650, s/d deluxe Rs 1700/2000) The hospitable 10pm) Opposite JSR Plaza, Baig’s is gloomy
Chinar Inn has a range of older-style, large, but relatively clean, with good oily Pakistani
comfy fan-cooled rooms with TVs set in a dishes for those with strong constitutions.
278 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • G i l g i t T o w n lonelyplanet.com
New Tourist Cottage (%54255; Chinar Bagh Link Askari Snacks (Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam Rd; h8am-
Rd; mains Rs 50-80) Although the Japanese owner 2pm & 4-10pm) You can grab a coffee (Rs 15) or
has left, the new manager is trying to keep the tea here and sit in the garden with limited
Japanese flavour flowing by reintroducing the shade and enjoy your bakery items. It is
Japanese set dinner (not operating at the time adjacent to Askari Bakery.
of research) and a selection of Japanese dishes.
Nonguests should make prior inquiries about SELF-CATERING
reserving a spot at the table. Stands on Airport Rd and on the approach
Horizon Guest House (%55288; Shahrah-e-Quaid-e- to the footbridge on Pul Rd sell fruit and
Azam Rd; mains Rs 80-200) If food is your thing, we vegetables, especially in the evening. A sabzi
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
recommend this guesthouse restaurant where mandi (vegetable market) is along the west
the Pakistani, Chinese and Continental dishes side of Jama Mosque. Apricots usually appear
are matched with several delicious Astori in June; apples, pomegranates, walnuts and
specialities such as chapsum (vegetable with Gilgit’s own peaches can be found in early
cheese, chicken or beef rolled into a chapati autumn. Fresh naan (flat bread) is sold right
and fried). It also serves environmentally from the tandoor (clay oven) in the sabzi
friendly filtered water. mandi and elsewhere, but it’s gone soon after
Green Dragon (Airport Rd; mains Rs 95-120) Jamal 9am and is available again in the evenings.
Hotel’s Chinese-decorated restaurant pro- Scattered along Gilgit’s main thorough-
duces OK Chinese dishes such as hot and sour fares are numerous dry fruit and nut trad-
chicken (Rs 120), sliced beef and ginger (Rs ers. Almonds from Gilgit, walnuts from
110) and laghman (noodles in broth; Rs 110), Dainyor, apricots from Hunza and grapes
but covers its bases by churning out Pakistani from Kashgar all make great staples for long
standards such as chicken karai (Rs 135). road trips and treks. Try Khan Bahadur’s
Dumani (% 55894; Gilgit Serena Hotel, Jutial; North Pole Traders (Airport Rd).
mains Rs 200-400) Based at Gilgit’s top hotel, Numerous bakeries and general stores have
Dumani has a wonderful vista and a good- biscuits, sweets, jam, cornflakes, soup mixes,
value menu with tasty Pakistani, Chinese long-life milk and juices, tinned cheese and
and Continental cuisine. If you have been pickles to spice up bland curries. Marshal Bakery
scrimping or trekking, this is the place to & General Store (Airport Rd) is particularly good, as
have a splurge – particularly at the all- are the Askari Bakeries. There’s a CSD super-
you-can-eat buffet lunch (Rs 500). Credit market behind Askari Bakery in Jutial.
cards are accepted. Popular barbecue nights You can buy dahi (yogurt) at general stores,
(Monday to Saturday) commence after 15 or one of the yogurt shops at the back of the
May, with locals and nonguests alike enjoy- sabzi mandi; say pita for drink here and jata
ing the first-rate food and garden ambience. for takeaway (Rs 12).
Also good value is the high tea buffet (Rs
220) on Sunday (3pm to 6pm) with a great Shopping
range of salads, hot dishes and desserts. CAMPING EQUIPMENT SALES & RENTAL
Other recommended hotel restaurants Karakoram Mountaineering Equipment (Airport
include those at Canopy Nexus (%51011; River Rd) Formerly known as Gown House (and maybe still
View Rd; mains Rs 100-250), where riverside seat- sporting the old sign).
ing makes up for the long wait; and Hotel Longlife Mountaineering Equipment (%53513;
Riveria (% 54184; River View Rd; mains Rs 80-195) Airport Rd) Sales and rental. The secondhand gear is
with its recommended alfresco barbecue shipped from Europe via Karachi and can be a good buy.
in summer. The new stuff is from China but is not ‘export quality’ so be
careful. Sleeping-bag hire is Rs 50 per day. Sold items may
CAFÉS & QUICK EATS be bought back at half price. Reasonable selection of down
Askari Bakery (Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam Rd; h8am-2pm jackets, stoves etc.
& 4-10pm) Catch a Suzuki (Rs 5) out to Askari Trekking Equipment & Gift Shop (%52457; c/o
Bakery beyond Jutial for good-value cakes, Madina Hotel & Guest House, NLI Chowk)
biscuits and bread as well as a range of gro-
ceries. There’s also a new branch at NLI HANDICRAFTS
Market. The 250g fruit/plain butter cakes for There’s a clutch of similar shops around
Rs 17/15 make ideal travel companions. Hunza Chowk that sell gemstones and old
lonelyplanet.com G I L G I T R E G I O N • • G i l g i t T o w n 279
musical instruments, as well as woollen hats at Madina Hotel & Guest House (see p275).
(Rs 60 to Rs 300) and waistcoats (Rs 250 to Rs Natco buses and Land Cruisers leave from
1000) that vary greatly in quality. An NA bar- the Natco bus yard (Punial Rd), which is hidden
gain is the durable, hand-woven wool (patti down the first laneway immediately behind
or pattu) of Hunza and Nagyr – coarse, thick the Kakakhel General Store. Natco fares for
and tight, with an uneven grain. Chitral and destinations west of Gilgit in-
Xama Stores (%54271; Airport Rd) By the Park clude the following:
Hotel, Xama has a dusty collection of old jew- Chitral (Rs 650, 16 hours) Ten-seat Land Cruiser at least
ellery, handicrafts, carpets and flintlocks. once a week in summer, usually Sunday. Alternative is a
daily minibus to Mastuj (Rs 360) where you can board a
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
PHOTOGRAPHY minibus to Chitral (Rs 130).
Hunza Computers (NLI Chowk) For ultra cheap memory Gakuch (Rs 60) On the Yasin or Gupis bus.
cards for cameras, burning to CD (Rs 100) etc. Gupis (Rs 90) Departure 9.30am.
Javed Digital Color Lab (Saddar Bazaar) Ishkoman (Rs 90) Departure 11am.
JJ Color Lab Kodak Express (NLI Chowk) Yasin (bus Rs 90) Departure 9.30am.
Rd for the upper Gilgit River basin. There are or hire a Suzuki for a three-hour return trip
minibuses (Rs 50) to Chalt/Minapin leaving (Rs 400). A 10-minute walk up the left-hand
from near the corner of Shaheed-e-Millat and side of Kargah Nala is Shuko Gah (Gah is
Khazana Rds after noon. Natco has a daily Shina for ‘stream’), and the Buddha is high
minibus (Rs 130) to Astor village leaving from above this gully. Local kids may ‘guide’ you
the general bus stand. there, but be careful – their short cuts can
Though it would mean passing through and include difficult scrambles.
missing the best that northern Pakistan has to Further up Shuko Gah is Napur village, the
offer, Natco’s daily bus to Kashgar (US$14 or ruins of a monastery and stupa, and a cave
rupee equivalent, 15 hours) leaves the general where Buddhist birch-bark texts (now called
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
bus stand at 6am. You need to book your the Gilgit Manuscripts) were found in the
ticket the day before. Note that the service 1930s. Cave is kor in Shina. A return option
operates from 1 May to the end of December with good valley views is to continue on this
(snow levels permitting); that is, beyond the high path to Barmas village, and then back
dates that non-Pakistani/Chinese foreigners down into Gilgit.
may cross the Khunjerab Pass (1 May to 15
November). At the time of writing Natco and Jutial Nala & Taj Mughal’s Monument
the Chinese had agreed to allow returning A fairly easy hike from Jutial along a high
buses to carry passengers and so every alter- water channel gives a fine panorama of the
nate day the bus is a Chinese bus not a Natco valley, plus Rakaposhi and other peaks. Take
bus. If you can organise it, the Natco bus (and a Jutial Suzuki from Saddar Bazaar to the end
drivers) is the better (safer) option. of the line, below Gilgit Serena Hotel. Half a
kilometre uphill past Gilgit Serena, turn right
FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE RENTAL and then left up the nala. Climb till you see a
For jeep or minibus rental, ask the travel agen- stream going off to the right – the headworks
cies (see p274), or your hotel-wallah. At the of the water channel.
time of research, you could hire a 4WD to Several kilometres along the channel, you
Skardu or Sost for about Rs 6000. can scramble 100m up to Taj Mughal’s monu-
ment. At Barmas village, near some water
Getting Around tanks, descend Hospital Rd into Gilgit. The
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT hike from Gilgit Serena Hotel to the bazaar
The cheapest means is a passenger Suzuki to takes under two hours. A variation is to climb
Airport Chowk (Rs 8), plus a 10-minute walk into Jutial Nala, then two hours up to pine for-
to the airport from there. A hired Suzuki is Rs ests and excellent Rakaposhi views. Another
60. Several hotels have free airport transfers. is to continue on the channel to Napur and
the Kargah Buddha.
BICYCLE These walks are extremely hot in July and
Mountain bikes are rented out at Shehnaz Cycle August. If there have been more than a few
Co (%50913; Hunza Chowk) for Rs 300 per day. hours of rain in recent days, stay away: the
hillsides are very prone to rockslides.
PASSENGER SUZUKIS
Passenger Suzukis go to Jutial and the general Dainyor
bus stand (Rs 8) from in front of the post of- A virtual ‘suburb’ of Gilgit and perhaps
fice at Saddar Bazaar, and to Dainyor from the Pakistan’s southernmost Ismaili village,
east end of Garhi Bagh. They can be flagged Dainyor makes a relaxing day trip. From
down anywhere, but not beyond 9pm. Suzukis Saddar Bazaar, Suzukis go to Dainyor Bazaar
also run west from Punial Rd. on the KKH via suspension bridges.
Overlooking the Hunza River is a shrine
AROUND GILGIT to a 17th- or 18th-century Shiite preacher
Kargah Buddha & Kargah Nala named Sultan Alib. Get off the Suzuki when
A Buddhist survivor, the large standing it tops the climb on the east side of the Hunza
Buddha carved on a cliff face in Kargah Nala, River, doubling back by foot on a path above
west of Gilgit, may date from the 7th century. the road.
From Punial Rd, it’s a 5km hike. Alternatively, From Dainyor Bazaar it’s 1.5km south on
you can jump off a minibus to Baseen (Rs 12) the KKH to a melancholy cemetery (on the left
lonelyplanet.com G I L G I T R E G I O N • • N a l t a r Va l l e y 281
behind a large gate) with the graves of Chinese Gilgit call this one the loveliest. Its postcard
KKH workers. alpine scenery is accessible for overnight trips,
There is a rock in Dainyor village with or even a fast day trip by jeep from Gilgit, and
Sanskrit inscriptions about 7th- and 8th- it gets crowded in summer.
century Tibetan rulers. It’s located on private The valley meets the Hunza River at
property and you may be asked for a few Nomal, 25km north of Gilgit, where a bridge
rupees to see it. From the bazaar, go 1km makes a short cut to the KKH. Soon a jeep
north on the KKH to a jeep road on the right. road strikes left and climbs a rocky canyon,
Up the road, after just less than a kilometre, passing a relaxed police checkpoint and a
start to ask for ‘old writing stone’ – likitu hydro power scheme beside the Naltar River.
giri in Shina. After 6km to 7km you pass Lower Naltar
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
village (kilini Naltar in Shina, the local
NALTAR VALLEY speech), and a further 5km to 6km brings
Naltar was the Gilgit Agency’s hill station, you to ajini Naltar (Upper Naltar) at about
where the British administrators retreated 3000m. Here the valley opens out and begins
when the summer heat grew oppressive. Most to look alpine. Across the river is a Pakistan
of the guides who know the valleys around Air Force winter survival school.
To Imit
(25km)
i er
Garamasai N
Ba j G a
Bar
Pakora Pass
Chatorkhand (4710m)
Upper Daintar
Shani Daintar Pass
Dain
ala
y
(4800m) tar Na
lle
la
Va
North ha Lower
(5798m) S ni Gl a Shani
Snow Dome
ci
Ba
an
Twin (5029m) Ch
r
apr
Na
kom
er
Peaks ot
Va
Chaprot
lta South Shani Peak Lath
lle
Pass Valle
r
Ish
(5700m) (5887m) y
y
Gupa Merhbani
(5639m) Chalt
(5235m) M Shing KKH
ou Naltar
nt Lake To Karimabad
River
(5234m) ai
(4954m) (30km)
ns
Na
Bangla
lta
r
Gakuch Beshgiri
a
Va
Khaltar
nz
PUNIAL Upper
lle
To Yasin (5454m)
Hu
Bubar Naltar
Na
(80km); (Jagot)
lta
Ghizar (100km);
r
Chitral (290km)
Lower
Gi Sasal Khand Ri Naltar
lgi ve
t (5001m) r
Singhal Japukay
River Naltar Rahimabad
Sherqila (4678m)
Nomal
Bridge
Golapur Bargo
KK
H
Sultanabad
Hanzal
Baseen
la
Dainyor
Na
Kargah
uko Gah
Gilgit
Sh
To Jaglot
(37km)
282 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • Pu n i a l , I s h k o m a n , Ya s i n & G h i z a r Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
From Upper Naltar it’s a beautiful 12km women are Ismailis, who dress in bright
hike on a bad jeep road up to Naltar Lake colours and pillbox caps, and are unveiled
and dense pine forests. No guide is necessary. in public.
Beyond this are more pastures and summer The old valley kingdoms are Punial (poon-
settlements. See p350 for a description of yaal), above Gilgit; Ishkoman (eesh-ko-man),
a five-day walk over the Pakora Pass from entering from the north about 80km up the
Upper Naltar. Gilgit River; Yasin (ya-seen), which enters at
about 110km; and Ghizar (ghuh-zr), stretch-
Sleeping & Eating ing west to the Shandur Pass into Chitral.
There’s no accommodation at Lower Naltar, They now comprise Ghizar district, hived off
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
while Upper Naltar has several seasonal op- from Gilgit district in 1989, with its headquar-
tions. The most reliable (in terms of being ters at Gakuch.
open in the shoulder seasons) and friendly is The mountains are the Hindu Raj, an
the modest Hilltop Hotel (%05811-57011; camping/ arm of the Hindukush (to geographers,
tent d Rs 50/100, d Rs 250) with three, very unpreten- the Karakoram Range only begins east of
tious double rooms, a permanent tent and a Ishkoman). The lower reaches are hot in
garden where you can pitch your own tent. summer and unexceptional to look at, but
There’s no running water but a bucket of hot the upper valleys are grandly beautiful. The
water is available in the morning. Other ho- route is dotted with ancient petroglyphs of
tels nearby include the 4 View and ‘three-star ibex and other animals.
deluxe’ Palace Hotel, which were not open at Most overlanders who pass through are
the time of research. on their way to/from Chitral – one of the
On the west side of the valley is a very best cheap adventures in the NA is to drive
popular NAPWD resthouse (d standard/VIP Rs 300/500). this scenic road. Though there’s still plenty
Gujar kids with sticky fingers mean the hotel of rough gravel, and there are some long hills
gardens are the safest place for camping. Only between villages, a few intrepid cyclists have
basic meals, which taste pretty good at this ridden it. You need to carry food and a tent.
elevation, will be available.
During the summer (usually from June to Getting There & Away
September) a couple of camp sites with kitch- Buses and minibuses leave daily (usually in
ens open at Naltar Lake. the morning) from Natco’s Punial Rd bus
yard in Gilgit for Gupis (Rs 90, six hours),
Getting There & Around Ishkoman (Pakora; Rs 80, six to seven hours)
At least two or three passenger jeeps leave and Yasin (Rs 90, six to seven hours). For
Gilgit’s general bus stand each afternoon Gakuch (Rs 60, four hours) catch either the
for Naltar (Rs 60), but be sure yours goes to Yasin or Gupis buses.
Upper Naltar or be prepared to hike up from Less predictable are cargo and passenger
Lower Naltar. Gilgit to Upper Naltar takes jeeps leaving from shops along Punial Rd in
two to 2½ hours by jeep. A special hire was Gilgit. Ask at Kakakhel General Store about
Rs 2500 return at the time of research. Most Gupis, Phander and Teru. For Ishkoman, you
Gilgit travel agencies have Naltar packages. can ask in Gakuch (at the auto-parts shop
At Upper Naltar you may be able to hire a opposite the Snowdrop Inn) about jeeps to
horse for a day trip or overnight trip to Naltar Chatorkhand and Imit. On most days, cargo
Lake; ask your hotel-wallah. jeeps go from Gupis to Phander and/or Teru.
To get to the Shandur Pass or to continue
PUNIAL, ISHKOMAN, YASIN & GHIZAR on to Chitral, Natco runs a 10-seat Land
The Gilgit River basin upstream of Gilgit is a Cruiser at least once a week (Rs 650 to Chitral,
paradise for trekkers and anglers. Once a nest 16 hours) in summer from Gilgit (Punial
of small feuding kingdoms, it’s still a surpris- Rd). Alternatively, there’s a daily minibus to
ing patchwork of people and languages, with Mastuj (Rs 360), from where you can board a
hardly any settlement big enough to be called minibus to Chitral (Rs 130). Readers continu-
a town. The population is 80% to 85% Ismaili ally praise the Gilgit–Chitral service offered
(it was through here that Ismailism arrived by ‘Driver Yaqub’ from Gupis who can be
from Afghanistan). Most others are Sunni, contacted at Madina Hotel & Guest House
with some Shiites in Yasin. The only visible (%05811-53536). The cost is about Rs 10,000
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G I L G I T R E G I O N • • Pu n i a l , I s h k o m a n , Ya s i n & G h i z a r 283
for four people and all their gear. If you can in the grounds with permission from the chief
afford it, the most reliable option is to hire a engineer (%05811-50307) in Gilgit.
jeep and driver in Gilgit from a travel agency
such as Travel Walji’s (see p274). The Shandur Ishkoman
Pass is usually open from June to late October, Chatorkhand, 25km from Gakuch, is the tra-
and it is not unknown for travellers to resort ditional seat of the pir of Chatorkhand, head
to several hours’ walking through snow in of a line of hereditary religious leaders who
May to ‘get to the other side’. came from Bukhara in Central Asia in the
early 19th century.
Punial Ishkoman is best known for treks; see p350.
The road hugs the Gilgit River, a swift opal-
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Other treks go west to Yasin; for details see
blue stream in autumn and a silty torrent fed Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Karakoram
by melting glaciers in summer. At Sherqila, & Hindukush.
about 40km from Gilgit, there’s a police
checkpoint on the road, though the village SLEEPING
is across the river. Singhal, 53km from Gilgit, At Chatorkhand, you’ll find the basic Zuhaib
has an Aga Khan Health Services Pakistan Guesthouse (%05814-58100; d Rs 300). Chatorkhand
(AKHSP) hospital. Singhal Gah is a well- and Imit (which is about 30km beyond
known trout reach. Chatorkhand) both have NAPWD resthouses (d
The valley broadens at the district head- Rs 300), booked via the chief engineer (%05811-
quarters of Gakuch (also with good trout fish- 50307) in Gilgit.
ing), where, 12km beyond Singhal, there’s
a suspension bridge across the Gilgit River Yasin
servicing the road up the Ishkoman Valley. The Yasin and Ghizar Rivers join near Gupis
Gakuch itself is a further 5km beyond the to form the Gilgit River. Across a Chinese-
turn-off. There’s little reason to stop except to built bridge and 25km north of Gupis is Yasin
catch onwards transport. Just beyond Gakuch village. From here it’s about 40km to the val-
yawns the impressive mouth of the Ishkoman ley’s highest village, Darkot, beyond which is
Valley. As you continue up beside the Gilgit the Darkot Pass (a restricted trekking zone)
River, keep an eye open for ancient petro- into Chitral’s upper Yarkhun Valley.
glyphs chipped into the dark shiny rocks. The By the time he died in 1857, Yasini ruler
villages are resplendent in autumn colours Gohar Aman held everything down to Astor,
in October. but six years later Kashmiri soldiers retook
it all, and massacred some 1200 people at
SLEEPING & EATING Yasin village.
Ghizar Tourist Cottage (%05814-58032; d Rs 600) At
Singhal, the welcoming Ghizar Tourist Cottage SLEEPING
has plans to expand to 12 rooms. It has a very Yasin village has an NAPWD resthouse (d Rs
pleasant garden shaded by fruit trees, and an 300), and a few kilometres north at Taus is a
unusually plush dining hall (mains Rs 80 to small serai.
Rs 90).
Hotel Green Palace ( % 05814-51121; s/d Rs Ghizar
1000/1500) The best accommodation in Gakuch This ruggedly beautiful valley meets the Yasin
can be found west of the bazaar at the Green Valley at Gupis, 40km up the Gilgit River from
Palace, with its comfortable stone cottages Gakuch (the valley is sometimes called Gupis
(divided into two private rooms) and fishy- too). Ghizar is the best place between Gilgit
sounding Trout Restaurant (mains Rs 85 to and Chitral to put up your feet. Gupis has a
Rs 170). post office and digital phone exchange.
Other options in Gakuch are rather scruffy Just beyond Gupis (about 9km) is Khalti Lake
and include the Hill Haven (%05814-51110; s/d (a natural dam on the Ghizar River) and the
Rs 200/250), east of the bazaar, and the central small village of Jhandrot. About a three-hour
Karim Guesthouse and Three Star Hotel drive beyond Gupis, the road crosses the river
& Restaurant. at the village of Chashi and rises through a vast
Golapur and Singhal have heavily used graveyard. About 60km from Gupis, where
NAPWD resthouses (d Rs 300), where you can camp the valley opens wide, is Phander (fun-dr), a
284 B A LT I S TA N Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
picture-postcard place to break the journey. the west end of Phander bazaar is the small
Flour milled locally from wheat grown in the seasonal Tourist Inn (d Rs 200) with cheaper beds
low-terraced fields here has a reputation for in tents, and charpoys.
producing excellent chapatis. Horses can be Teru has only a sublimely primitive NAPWD
hired at Phander for local trips. If you want to resthouse (d Rs 300), while at Barsat there is Hotel
linger, the places to do it are Phander and Teru Barsat (thin mattress on wooden platform Rs 100) with
(3100m high, 22km from Phander). rustic dorm accommodation and prices inclu-
An hour on from Phander at Gulagmuli vil- sive of dinner and breakfast. There are plenty
lage, Hundrup Gol (gol meaning ‘canyon’), of blankets – and you will need them in spring
with its world-class trout stream, gapes to or autumn – but not much food. Bring your
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
the south. With the Shandur Pass area, this own provisions or enjoy the potatoes!
canyon forms Shandur-Hundrup National
Park (see right). Shandur Pass
A short distance (about 5km) beyond Teru The 3810m Shandur Pass, 50km from Phander
is the small village of Barsat, the last village and 108km back to Gupis, is actually broad
before the Shandur Pass. Beyond Barsat is the enough to have several lakes and a polo
broad, picturesque Langar Valley where yaks ground where the best players from Gilgit
graze and people cut peat for winter fuel. and Chitral meet every July, part of a three-
or four-day festival of polo and merrymaking
SLEEPING & EATING (see the boxed text, p276).
In Gupis, Kakakhel Hotel (tr Rs 300), with two With Hundrup Gol, the Shandur Pass area
basic triple rooms, is at the west end of the vil- forms the 518-sq-km Shandur-Hundrup National
lage. Central Snow Leopard Inn (%05815-55070; s/d Park (see p68). It was declared a national park
Rs 150/250) is a good restaurant with some very in 1993, partly in the hope of keeping an envi-
basic rooms in a separate building, behind and ronmental lid on the polo tournament and the
underneath the bazaar shops. Gupis also has mess left by its 12,000-plus spectators. Visitors
an NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300). will find nothing to indicate its boundaries.
With great views upvalley to Khalti Lake For details of the road and towns on the
as well as downvalley, the PTDC Motel Gupis Chitral side of the Shandur, see p233.
(%05813-58071; s/d Rs 1200/1500) is strikingly situ-
ated about 8km beyond Gupis. The spacious,
comfortable rooms, decent restaurant and
friendly manager combine with the views to
BALTISTAN
make this a memorable place to stay. Down Rising in Tibet, as one of the four sacred
by the lake is Lake View Hotel (%05813-58050; dm/d rivers, the Indus flows northwest almost to
Rs 50/350), apparently a favourite with anglers. Gilgit, in a deep trough dividing the Himalaya
It has OK doubles with hot water but an at- from the Karakoram, and the Indian sub-
mosphere of neglect. The dorm has an outside continent from Asia. Before turning south it
bathroom and no hot water. At the nearby drains Baltistan, or ‘Little Tibet’, an arid land
small bazaar of Jhandrot you can purchase inhabited by people who today speak classi-
seasonal fruit and vegetables. cal Tibetan and in the 17th century were the
About 2km east of Phander bazaar, over- masters of Chitral, the NA and Ladakh.
looking Phander Lake, is a wonderfully sited Buddhism probably came to Baltistan in
NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300). Across the road, the 3rd century with Gandharan missionar-
Over the Lake Hotel & Restaurant (d in tent Rs 150, d Rs ies, and again when it was part of the Tibetan
300) has one tent and three comfortable and empire in the 8th and 9th centuries. Islam
clean double rooms, which share a toilet and arrived in the 15th century, probably via
a cold-water tap. The owner, who is one of Kashmir. Baltistan then consisted of several
the chowkidars for the resthouse, can provide small kingdoms; the most important were
basic, inexpensive meals or cook your provi- Rondu and Skardu on the Indus, Khaplu,
sions. The PTDC Motel Phander (%05813-58071; s/d Shigar and Astor. Skardu’s Maqpon dynasty
Rs 1200/1500) is nicely situated by the lake and gradually absorbed the others.
shares management with PTDC Motel Gupis. Near the Balti capital of Skardu the Indus is
The usual spacious rooms, clean bedding and joined by the Shigar and Shyok Rivers, flowing
workable restaurant make it a good choice. At down from the Baltoro Muztagh, a segment
0 10 km
BALTISTAN 0 6 miles
Dassu To Chuk Biafo Baltoro
Chakpo Foljo Glacier Glacier
Ba
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lonelyplanet.com
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Astor
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s
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River of Control
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(Ladakh)
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To Deosai Plains;
Katichu La
Ali Malik (4588m) To Line of Control (50km)
Gudai; Astor (95km) Mar (Ladakh) (30km)
B A LT I S TA N 285
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
286 B A LT I S TA N • • T h e G i l g i t t o S k a r d u R o a d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
of the Karakoram backbone containing the there’s a brief view ahead to Rakaposhi’s south
densest mass of glaciers and high mountains face. Fifteen minutes later the Indus is at its
on earth, including 8611m K2, second only to northernmost point. Another 15 minutes on
Mt Everest. Naturally, there are unparalleled (27km from the KKH) is the fuel stop of Sassi,
opportunities for trekking and mountaineer- a green island in a sea of crumbling rocks.
ing, and it is the escalating impacts of these With its size, desolation and the nonstop
activities that led to the establishment in 1993 foaming fury of the Indus, the gorge from here
of the 9738-sq-km Central Karakoram National south is simply awesome. Where there are no
Park (p68). This is by far Pakistan’s biggest bridges, people still cross by pulling themselves
protected area, stretching north into Gojal, hand over hand in a sphincter-puckering
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
west to Haramosh and Rakaposhi, south al- contraption consisting of a platform hung
most to Skardu and Khaplu, and east to the from a pulley on a single cable, often hundreds
crest of the High Karakoram. of metres above the river. At the truck stop
Until an air route was opened from of Thangus, 53km from the KKH, look across
Islamabad in the 1960s, Baltistan remained the river for miners scraping out a living by
almost medieval in its isolation. From 1972 to burrowing into the mountain’s quartz veins
1985, simultaneous with construction of the for crystals.
KKH, Pakistan Army Engineers cut a road up Another 7km further on is a popular trav-
the Indus that is more formidable than most ellers’ stop at the basic Midway Hotel and,
of the KKH. across the road, PTDC Astak, about 89km
The poorly defined northern end of the from Skardu. About 3½ hours from the KKH
Line of Control tempted India in 1982 to (2½ hours from Skardu) is the regional centre
send troops onto the Siachen Glacier in Thowar. Across the river is Mendi, capital of
Baltistan’s eastern corner, which Pakistan the ancient Rondu kingdom. Below Basho the
regards as part of the NA. The two coun- canyon opens into the vast Skardu Valley, and
tries have militarised the area, skirmishing an hour later you’re in Skardu bazaar.
repeatedly in what has come to be called ‘the In good weather the 170km trip takes six
highest war on earth’. to seven hours, with at least two police check-
But away from this off-limits zone, amid points. In rainy weather (eg summer storms
awesome scenery, are world-class treks, two and winter drizzle) multiple slides may block
national parks and villages that seem hardly it completely.
touched by the 21st century. Nearly everyone
is Shiite Muslim and not a woman is visible Sleeping & Eating
in Skardu. Men and women visitors alike PTDC Motel Astak (s/d Rs 1200/1500) If you need a
should dress conservatively; shorts are out, room there are four very comfortable dou-
and even bare arms put orthodox backs up. bles here. Breakfast is served from 6.30am to
Many people of Shigar and Khaplu belong 9.30am, lunch from 11am to 3pm and dinner
to the Nurbakhshi branch of Islam, whose from 6pm to 10pm. Mains cost Rs 90 to Rs
women are unveiled and as open and brightly 120, and a buffet lunch is Rs 350.
dressed as the Ismailis of Hunza. Midway Hotel & Restaurant (snacks Rs 20-50)
The tourist season is April to October. Minibuses tend to stop for a toilet break here,
Midsummer is hot in Skardu; it’s also prime where you can have a cup of tea, stretch your
mountaineering season, so jeeps and hotel legs and have a look at a couple of rock shops.
space may be hard to find. You can fly in from It’s a good idea to bring your own snacks and
Islamabad even in winter, though schedules water rather than rely on the offerings here.
are very unpredictable and only a few hotels Thowar has an NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300).
still operate then.
SKARDU
THE GILGIT TO SKARDU ROAD %05831
Thirty-eight kilometres south of Gilgit, the The Indus barely seems to move across the
road to Skardu (170km) leaves the KKH and immense, flat Skardu Valley, 40km long,
crosses a bridge and a spit of rock into the 10km wide and carpeted with silvery grey
upper Indus Valley. Ten minutes from the sand dunes. In between dust storms the land
bridge is a perfect panorama of the entire seems cleansed and freeze-dried, and the light
Nanga Parbat massif, and shortly afterwards is intense. The brown mountains give no hint
lonelyplanet.com B A LT I S TA N • • S k a r d u 287
of the white giants beyond. Skardu, at 2290m, uprising against the Maharaja of Kashmir,
is on a ledge at the foot of Karpochu, a rock and Hussaini Chowk, near the 17th-century
sticking 300m out of the plain. aqueduct. The cheaper hotels are near Yadgar.
The town has been a mountaineers’ haunt Government offices are well east or south of
for over 150 years, and a military headquar- the bazaar. The airport is 12km west on the
ters since Partition, but it’s also the base for road to Gilgit.
many classic Karakoram treks (introduced in
the Trekking in Northern Pakistan chapter; Information
see p331), and even some good day trips. There is a PTDC (%50291; PTDC K2 Motel), but
Midsummer is prime mountaineering sea- you’ll probably get as much information
son, when jeeps and hotel space may be hard from your hotel. The National Bank (Naya
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
to find. Walking and trekking can be pleas- Bazaar) near Yadgar Chowk will change cash
ant even in October, when prices start to and travellers cheques, but you can also
fall and the weather is clear and cold. From change cash with moneychangers and other
November to March, temperatures drop banks. There is no ATM in Skardu. Beside
to freezing. the government telephone exchange (Kazmi Bazaar;
Hotels get booked out in the second week h7am-12.30am) is a police post. The post of-
of August, when Skardu hosts a big tourna- fice, PIA and Pakistan army base are well
ment of Baltistan’s polo teams to celebrate east of the bazaar.
Pakistan’s Independence Day. Theoretically, Baltistan’s NAPWD rest-
houses can be booked via the Skardu and
Orientation Ghanche district chief engineers in Skardu,
Along the main road is Naya (New) Bazaar but you’d probably have better luck with the
and in the back streets the more interest- chief engineer (%05811-50307) in Gilgit. Or try
ing Purana (Old) Bazaar. Reference points your luck without a booking, but be ready to
are Yadgar Chowk, with a monument to the camp in the gardens if necessary.
SKARDU 0
0
800 m
0.5 miles
A B To Fort C D
To Airport (12km); Karpochu
Kachura Lake (30km);
KKH (130km); Gilgit (160km)
19
1 Colle 27
11
ge Rd Graveyard
23 29
21 22
25 Hussaini Polo
20 30 Yadgar 15 2 7 Chowk
3 Naya Ground
Chowk Baz Mosque
aar
28
31
Purana
Bazaar 18 Chashma
Bazaar
Kaz
Old Aqueduct
Link Rd
Mosque
mi
24 Hamid 16
8 10 Bazaar 6 Ghar
26 Ha
INFORMATION 32 mid
2 Comsats.............................................1 C2
12 17
5 9
Mosque 4
Gh 13
1 ar
NAPWD Chief Engineer......................2 B1 Rd
14 Hospita
National Bank.....................................3 B1 l Rd
Nazir Sabir Expeditions office.............4 D2
Satpara Rd
To Shigar (25km);
Police.................................................5 C2 Khaplu (90km)
Post Office.........................................6 C2
To NAPWD Baltoro
PTDC Office...................................(see 24) Resthouse (2.5km);
Soneri Bank.........................................7 B1 SLEEPING Satpara Lake (9km)
Telephone Exchange..........................8 C2 Baltistan Tourist Cottage...................15 B1
Concordia Motel..............................16 D2 EATING
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Dewan-e-Khas.................................17 C2 Askari Bakery...................................26 C2
Adventure Travel...........................(see 23) Hilton International Hotel & United Bakery...................................27 A1
Ali Haider Sadpara.........................(see 15) Restaurant....................................18 B2 Vegetable Market.............................28 B1
Italian K2 Museum.........................(see 24) Hotel Sadpara International..............19 A1
3 Khurpa Care.......................................9 C2 Hunza Inn 5 Brothers........................20 A1 TRANSPORT
Longlife Mountaineering Equipment..10 C2 Indus Motel......................................21 A1 K-2 Tours.......................................(see 18)
Qatal Gah.........................................11 B1 Karakoram Inn..................................22 B1 Mashabrum Tours.............................29 B1
Raja’s Palace.....................................12 B2 Mashabrum Hotel.............................23 A1 Natco...............................................30 A1
Skardu DC’s Office.......................... 13 D2 PTDC K2 Motel................................24 D2 Passenger Jeeps to Shigar..................31 B1
Travel Walji's................................... 14 D2 Skardu Inn........................................25 A1 PIA Booking Office...........................32 C2
288 B A LT I S TA N • • S k a r d u Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
There is one internet café, Comsats (Kazmi Ali Haider Sadpara (%53046; alihaider_mountain
Bazaar; per hr Rs 60) and numerous PCOs scat- [email protected]) A small operation for budget travellers
tered throughout the town. with gear available for hire. Make inquiries at the Baltistan
Tourist Cottage.
Sights & Activities Khurpa Care (%55140; [email protected]; 1st
KARPOCHU fl, Abbas Market, Kazmi Bazaar) Trekkers and climbers
Ali Sher Khan probably built the fort (admis- should avail themselves of the organisation dedicated to
sion Rs 50) on the east end of this rock in the the welfare of the Balti porters, known as khurpas (Balti for
17th century, but the Dogras trashed and re- carrier). Pick up tips on how to hire khurpas responsibly,
built it. It’s a half-hour climb to the partly or ensure your trekking company does likewise, as well as
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
VIP room out the back with TV, carpet and featuring a small selection of Balti dishes in
good views for Rs 700. The restaurant here is addition to the extensive Pakistani, Chinese
very good and the staff are very experienced and Continental offerings. Try the excellent
with travel and trekking information. They local soup of barley, black bean and lentil in
also do money exchange. mutton broth, and the whole fried trout if it’s
Skardu Inn (%54086; College Rd; s/d Rs 450/650) This available. There are also barbecue and several
skinny, high-rise hotel was being renovated at vegetarian dishes.
the time of research and the rooms with TVs Mashabrum Hotel (%50395; hotelmashabrum@yahoo
should be worth inspecting. .com; College Rd; mains Rs 120-350; h7am-10pm) This
Concordia Motel (%52582; fax 52547; Hospital Rd; s/d large hotel has Skardu’s most extensive
Rs 1000/1200, s/d deluxe Rs 1800/2000; i) A little fur- Pakistani, Chinese and Continental menu,
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
ther from the bazaar and with a similar view featuring speciality dishes such as the mouth-
of the Indus River to the PTDC, Concordia watering, slow-cooked beef nahari, mutton
has good-value standard rooms, though check leg roast and chicken handi (in gravy).
the mattress for comfort. The deluxe rooms Other decent hotel restaurants include the
in the new wing are fabulous, with excellent budget Baltistan Tourist Cottage (mains Rs 50-80)
views. The management here are very helpful with good chips, omelettes and mutton karai,
and can organise jeep safaris, day trips and and the midrange Indus Motel (mains Rs 60-100)
overnight jaunts. with a tasty chicken rice pilau (Rs 75), as well
oDewan-e-Khas (%55494; www.dewanekhas as Pakistani and Chinese standards.
.com.pk; Raja Rd; s/d Rs 1000/1500) This friendly hotel Skardu is hard work for vegetarians, but
is one of the few in Skardu to remain open there’s fruit in summer, and many general
year-round. The plush, carpeted rooms are stores and bakeries. United Bakery (Yadgar Chowk)
warm and comforting with satellite TV and has baked goods, but also plenty of packaged
bathrooms featuring bathtubs and showers. groceries, drinks etc. Head to Askari Bakery
There are only four double rooms at present (Chashma Bazaar) for fresher bread, cakes and
but there are plans for expansion. A major biscuits.
advantage of staying here is the excellent res-
taurant (see below), which is probably the Getting There & Away
best in Skardu. AIR
PTDC K2 Motel (%50291; fax 50293; s/d Rs 1350/1800, PIA (%50284, airport 58150; Chasma Bazaar) flies
s/d deluxe Rs 1960/2350) Most of the rooms are huge Boeing 737s to Islamabad (Rs 2700) daily at
and comfortable, though the plumbing is dia- 11.20am (weather permitting), with views
bolical so check the shower before you settle right across the Karakoram. The Islamabad
in. The location is remarkable, off Hamid to Skardu flight departs at 9.30am and arrives
Ghar Rd and with uninterrupted views of at 10.30am. Head out to the airport at least
the Indus River, though it’s a long walk from two hours before departure.
the bazaar. There is an OK restaurant, a very
interesting mountaineering museum, and a BUS
tourist information desk. In good weather the 170km trip to/from Gilgit
Mashabrum Hotel (%50395; hotelmashabrum@yahoo takes six to seven hours. For the best views,
.com; College Rd; s/d Rs 1650/1850) The Mashabrum sit on the left-hand side heading for Gilgit. In
makes quite a statement in Skardu, especially rainy weather, multiple rockfalls may block
the impressive lobby with adjoining restau- the road for days. Rawalpindi-bound buses
rant and gift shop. The numerous rooms are will take at least 20 hours and probably stop in
functional and comfortable with TVs and a Islamabad, but you should confirm this.
balcony but already looking a little tired in K-2 Tours (%55582; Hussaini Chowk) has mini-
this relatively new hotel. buses for Gilgit (Rs 240) departing at 9am,
11am and 1pm. For Khaplu (Rs 100, three
Eating hours) a 16-seat Land Cruiser departs at
The hotels have the best restaurants in town 10am. For Rawalpindi (Rs 850), at least one
and most do an adequate job. bus departs daily at 11am.
oDewan-e-Khas (%55494; www.dewane Mashabrum Tours (%55195; Yadgar Chowk) has
khas.com.pk; Raja Rd; mains Rs 50-200; h8am-10pm) This minibuses to Gilgit (Rs 200) departing at 8am,
recommended hotel has a great restaurant 10am and noon. To Rawalpindi, a Coaster
290 B A LT I S TA N • • A r o u n d S k a r d u Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
(Rs 850) departs at 11am and a bus (Rs 800) to the Buddha. There and back is a detour
departs at 4pm. For Khaplu (Rs 100) there’s of about an hour.
a 9am departure. A road, parts of it already paved, runs
Natco (%52188; College Rd) is the best choice past the lake and 6km to 8km on to Satpara
for the long-haul trip to Pindi because of the village. Roughly 25km beyond the village, the
better buses and because they take two drivers. track crosses the Ali Malik Mar pass onto
For Pindi, the VIP Coaster (Rs 1100) departs the Deosai Plains. The most popular trek-
at noon and the VIP deluxe (Rs 850) departs at king route goes from Skardu up Burji Nala,
3pm. To Gilgit (Rs 125 to Rs 190) departures to the west of Hargisar; see Lonely Planet’s
start at 9am. For Khaplu (Rs 100) there is at Trekking in the Karakoram & Hindukush for
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
least one departure at 8am. further details on these and other treks.
GETTING THERE & AWAY ited grassy plateau, which borders Indian-
Other than the walk described previously administered Kashmir. Nowhere are the
(p290), you can hire a taxi from Skardu for plains lower than about 4000m; they’re only
about Rs 400 for the round trip. Be sure to accessible for about four months each year,
ask for a look at the Buddha on the way and and are snowbound for the rest.
negotiate a small fee for waiting around at the A track across the plains has become a
lake. A jeep will cost about Rs 600. popular jeep trek route between Skardu
and the Astor Valley (see p268), and in
Kachura Lake 1993 some 3630 sq km were declared the
Thirty kilometres west of Skardu, off the road Deosai Plains National Park (see p69) out of
concern for its subalpine vegetation, alpine
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
to Gilgit, this small lake is known mostly for the
expensive Shangri-La Tourist Resort (%05831-58501; meadows and Himalayan brown bears. The
s/d from Rs 5000/7500) with its ersatz Chinese archi- region also supports the endangered snow
tecture and a DC-3 fuselage converted into a leopard and Indian wolf, plus Himalayan
café (not operating at the time of research). This ibex and golden marmots.
resort purports to be luxury, and though it has From July to September, you can trek
a wonderful setting and the cabins are comfort- from the Astor Valley to Skardu in as little as
able, overall it falls short of expectations. The a week. Intrepid mountain bikers have done
Rs 200 entry pass deters day visitors and those Astor to Skardu in five days. Go prepared
who haven’t made a prior booking. for mosquitoes, cold weather and sudden
A smaller and more intimate resort over- storms. A jeep can make the journey from
looking the picturesque lake is Tourist Camping Gilgit to Skardu via Astor, Chilim Gah and
Resort (% 03469558819; [email protected] Deosai in 16 to 18 hours, with an overnight
.pk), with a dorm, tents and funky outdoor stop in Astor village.
bathroom. This is the base for Adventure Routes across Deosai are detailed in
Travel’s (www.adventure-touroperator.com) trekking Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Karakoram
in the region. & Hindukush.
There are petroglyphs along the streamside
trail up Shigarthang Lungma (lungma is Balti SHIGAR
for a tributary valley), above the lake. This is One of two routes from Skardu into the
an alternative to Satpara Lake for trekking High Karakoram (the other is the Shyok
the Deosai Plains (Kachura to Astor in four Valley), the lush and yawning Shigar Valley
to six days). was once a separate kingdom. Shigar’s
original settlers may have come over the
Basho Valley Karakoram from Yarkand, in Xinjiang.
About 45km kilometres west of Skardu, off the Shady Shigar village, where the Bauma
road to Gilgit, is a small mountain commu- Lungma empties into the Shigar River, is as
nity of several villages strung along a secluded far as most nontrekkers go. The main land-
valley that rises to the Deosai Plains. ‘Basho’ is mark here is Fong Khar, the former Raja of
said to mean ‘grape’ and refers to the valley’s Shigar’s fort-palace, now a luxury hotel (see
productive fruit growing. This area is quite p292) and museum (admission Rs 300, free for hotel
remote and it is recommended you contact guests) showcasing the impressive rustic ar-
Mr Younus Shehzad (shehzad_basho@hotmail chitecture and fascinating lifestyle of Shigar’s
.com) of the Basho Development Organisation rich and famous. The timber-and-stone pal-
for information on the several treks available ace has natural rock foundations and merges
and village visits. Treks, such as the Naqpo almost seamlessly into the mountainside, on
Namsul La, go at least as high as the Deosai top of which are the ruins of an earlier fort,
plateau and should only be attempted with Sinigma Khar. It’s a five-minute walk from the
adequate planning and equipment and, most road, up the left side of the stream, and has
importantly, local advice and assistance. The a lovely restaurant worth investigating even
season is July to September. if you’re not staying the night.
Visitors should find the time to stroll
DEOSAI PLAINS around the peaceful and attractive village
The Deosai Plains, about 50km southwest to meet the locals and view the beautiful
of Skardu, comprise an immense, uninhab- wooden mosques: Khilingrong beside Fong
292 B A LT I S TA N • • K h a p l u Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Khar, the larger Khanqa-e-Moallah and (pronounced as one syllable, roughly ‘shok’).
14th-century Amburiq. Along the Shigar The Shyok is the axis of Khaplu, the biggest
Valley wall, downriver of Bauma Lungma, are and richest of Baltistan’s ancient kingdoms,
recently excavated Buddhist ruins, including and the scenery is superb.
monastery foundations and rock inscriptions The Shyok and Indus basins above their
from as early as the 5th century. junction (embracing ancient Khaplu, some-
For views of the Shigar Valley, walk up times spelled Khapalu, and the four smaller
Bauma Lungma for 20 minutes and dou- principalities of Keris, Parkutta, Tolti and
ble back up to the thumb of rock above Kharmang) comprise Ghanche district, with
the village. Khaplu village as headquarters.
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
the other side of the valley. It’s hard to imag- Naya Bazaar, cargo jeeps depart from about
ine a more majestic setting. 11am (Rs 70 to Rs 100). The 103km trip takes
A stony track climbs to the lower bazaar about three hours by cargo jeep.
(with PCO, shops and a National Bank); a
five-minute walk. Half an hour beyond, at a HUSHE & MASHERBRUM VIEWS
fork in the road, is an elegant but run-down Those who would like to see the gorgeous
traditional-style house, where royal descend- 7821m massif of Masherbrum without trekking
ants live. Twenty minutes up the left fork is the to it could try and walk up the Shyok Valley
polo ground, and uphill from that is the Khaplu road past the police checkpoint and the turn-
Palace, currently under restoration by the Aga off to Hushe Valley towards Surmo. Although
Khan Trust for Culture. If you get lost, the local at the time of writing the police at Khaplu were
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
word for it is khar, or try ‘Raja palace’. The res- not allowing this little excursion, it is worth
toration plan includes the provision of quality attempting with a local guide. As the Hushe
accommodation and a museum, similar to Valley opens up, Masherbrum looms into view
Shigar’s former fort-palace (see opposite). at its head, an unforgettable sight. It’s a flat, hot
Twenty minutes further up is Chakhchun 6km walk past Brok Lungma and Yuchung vil-
village, with a carved wooden mosque whose lage to the best viewpoint, at a turn in the road.
foundations were supposedly laid in the 16th Surmo, 3km on, is usually as far as foreigners
century when the people embraced Islam. can go towards the Siachen Glacier.
Non-Muslims may not enter this or other See p362 for details, and Lonely Planet’s
mosques here. There are several more villages Trekking in the Karakoram & Hindukush
in Ganse Lungma above Chakhchun. for further options in and around the
Hushe Valley.
SLEEPING & EATING
Khapalu Inn (%50148; s/d Rs 200/400) In the lower Hushe Valley
bazaar, with basic rooms with squat toilets Hushe (hu-shay) is the trekkers’ route to
and bucket hot water. It has a basic curry and Masherbrum, and an alternative to Shigar
chapati restaurant. for mountaineers heading towards Concordia.
K-7 Hotel & Restaurant (s/d Rs 400/600) On the For a close look at Masherbrum you can take
track up to Chakhchun, an aching hour’s walk a four-day (three-night) walk on a moderate
from the road, this hotel is open from June to grade from Khaplu to Hushe and back, with
September with clean and comfortable rooms, stops at Kande, Hushe and Kande again.
basic food and good views.
Karakoram Lodge (%51132; www.baltistantours.com; HUMBROK
s/d Rs 800/1000) This large hotel boasts magnifi- These beautiful, spring-fed pastures west of,
cent views in addition to its spacious rooms and high above, Hushe are easy to reach on a
and better-than-average restaurant (mains day hike (about four hours up and two hours
Rs 80 to Rs 150). It’s a 10-minute walk uphill back). From Hushe, cross to the west side of the
from the bazaar. river on the lower of two bridges and walk for
PTDC Khapalu Motel (%50146; s/d Rs 1550/1850) half an hour up Humbrok Nala. Cross it on a
This comfortable motel overlooks the river wooden bridge and follow the north bank all the
just beyond the turn-off to the village. The way to the pastures. For details on an overnight
rooms are clean and spacious, and there’s a alternative, including a side trip, see p362.
reliable if boring restaurant (mains Rs 80 to
Rs 150). You may get permission to camp in SLEEPING
the grounds and use a hot shower. Camping sites abound. Machulu has an NAPWD
Just before you reach the PTDC Khapalu resthouse (d Rs 300). At Kande you can stay at the
Motel there is an NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300). ultra-basic K6 Hotel & Restaurant above the
jeep road to the west.
GETTING THERE & AWAY In Hushe there’s basic accommodation at
Natco buses depart Skardu at 8am and cost Rs the Mashabrum Inn, and several camp sites
100. Mashabrum Tours has one bus departing where you can purchase hot food, includ-
Skardu at 9am (also Rs 100). K-2 Tours leaves ing Lela Peak Camping, the small K6 & K7
Skardu at 10am (Rs 100). Buses depart Khaplu Camping Place, Ghandoghoro La Camping
bazaar between 8am and 9am. From Skardu’s Place and Ghandughoro Camping Place.
294 H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • G i l g i t t o C h a l t lonelyplanet.com
may be able to find a jeep going to Hushe. refers to the villages on the north bank from
In midsummer you might get a lift with a Khizerabad to Ghareghat (or sometimes as far
climbing party. But always be prepared to as Nazimabad). Gojal is sometimes described
walk the gently climbing 40km from Khaplu as part of Hunza too.
to Hushe village – about four hours up the Smaller but more populous Nagyr occu-
west side of the valley via Saling to Machulu, pies the entire south side of the valley and
3½ hours more to Kande, then 3½ hours on the north side around Chalt, and includes
to Hushe village. Rakaposhi and the lower Hispar Glacier.
Although it enjoys less media fame, Nagyr
is home to some of the best treks in the
HUNZA & NAGYR Karakoram (many of them described in
Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Karakoram
The Hunza Valley is the centrepiece of & Hindukush).
the KKH. The continuous sweep from the Most people here still think of them-
Hunza River through mighty, grey-brown selves as subjects of their respective mirs,
scree slopes and up to snowy peaks, includ- rather than as Pakistanis. And though they
ing 7788m Rakaposhi, is a reminder of the are very hospitable to foreigners, even in re-
river’s deep slice across the Karakoram. In mote areas, they are not always so fond of the
spring the famous fruit trees erupt in white down-land Pakistanis.
blossom, and autumn is a riot of yellow pop- The two kingdoms also have a common
lars, reddening orchards and golden maize language, Burushaski, but nobody is sure
drying on rooftops. where it came from. Wakhi is spoken in upper
Snaking across the slopes is Hunza’s hall- Hunza (Gojal); in Lower Nagyr (in common
mark, the precision-made stone channels with Gilgit), Shina is also used. Many people
on which the valley’s life depends. Carrying speak Urdu and English.
glacier meltwater to tiny stone-walled fields Hunza and Nagyr also once shared the
8km away, they have transformed a ‘moun- Shiite faith, but Hunza is now almost entirely
tain desert’ with few horizontal surfaces into Ismaili (except for Murtazaabad, Ganish and
a breadbasket. Their paths on the high rock a few other pockets).
faces are revealed by thin lines of vegetation,
and patches of green are visible on the most GILGIT TO CHALT
improbable walls and ledges. Irrigation sus- As you enter the Hunza Valley the view is
tains orchards of Hunza’s famous apricots, dominated by the 7168m Kampire Dior,
as well as peaches, plums, apples, grapes, located 70km north on the crest of the
cherries and walnuts (for more information Karakoram. About 35 minutes (on the bus)
on Hunza cuisine see the boxed text, p304). from Gilgit is a monument to KKH workers.
Irrigation also waters the fields of maize In Urdu on the base are the words of the
and wheat, and the ever-present poplars, philosopher-poet Allama Mohammed Iqbal:
a fast-growing source of fodder, firewood ‘God has given humans integrity, faith, and
and timber. a strong mind, and if they set themselves
Added to the beauty is a kind of mythology to it they can kick a mountain to powder
about Hunza’s isolation and purity, spawned or stop a river in its tracks.’ Unfortunately,
by James Hilton’s 1933 novel Lost Horizon, the immediate area surrounding the monu-
nourished in films about the lost kingdom of ment is an eyesore. Across the river is the
Shangri-la, and fostered in the 1970s by media Naltar Valley.
lonelyplanet.com H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • C h a l t 295
Hachindar Ayeenabad
ry
Bo yr-H
Aliabad KKH
(4270m) Sumayar
g
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Na
Nagyr Monument
Hussainabad Shayar Ri
Murtazaabad Nagyr ve
Chaprot z a Khizerabad Nasirabad r
un
River Miachar
Pisan Minapin His
Ghulmet par
Nilt Thol
Ri
Na Sikanderabad ver
g Jaffarabad Pisan Silkiang Hoper
Bo yr-Gi Glacier
und lgi Glacier
ary t Jaglot
Gah Haraj Minapin Rush
(4730m) Ghulmet Glacier Phari
Gwach Glacier Bualtar
Jaglot Glacier Barpu Rush Peak
NAGYR Glacier (5098m)
GILGIT Jaglot
Glacier Miar
Hunza
Na Rakaposhi
l (7788m) Glacier
Lower Rahimabad
tar
Diran
(7270m)
Rive
Upper Rahimabad
r
KKH Monument
Miar
Nomal (6824m)
Malubiting
KKH
(7458m)
Riv
er
To Gilgit
(15km)
Turkestan republic in Xinjiang in the 1860s, put a temporary end to the raids. This economic blow
led Hunza and Nagyr to declare allegiance to the British-aligned Maharaja of Kashmir.
In 1886 Safdar Ali became mir of Hunza in accordance with the valley’s age-old custom – by
murdering his father and three brothers. Within two years he resumed the caravan raids and
played host at Baltit Fort (see p300) to a party of Russian ‘explorers’. British India, spreading
north from Kashmir, had grown aware of Russia expanding into Central Asia, and Hunza now
began to look like a loose cannon on deck.
Britain decided to improve supply lines from Kashmir and reopen its Agency at Gilgit, and
inevitably became entangled in Hunza and Nagyr’s bloody politics. Within five years a British-
Kashmiri force had occupied the valley and installed its own mir, Nazim Khan, in Hunza. A British
garrison remained at Aliabad until 1897. Nazim Khan ruled until his death in 1938, and his son
Ghazan Khan until 1945.
Within weeks of the formal partition of India and Pakistan in August 1947, an uprising in
Gilgit against the Maharaja of Kashmir, who had opted to join India, brought Hunza and Nagyr
into Pakistan. They remained semiautonomous until 1974 when they were merged with Pakistan,
reducing their rulers to district officials.
Many older Hunzakuts still fondly recall their last mir, Muhammad Jamal Khan, who died two
years after the formal dissolution of the old princely states. His son Ghazanfar Ali still occupies
the royal house in Karimabad.
Valley). After 3km a path continues up information about walks in the area. Across
the west side of the valley while the jeep the bridge is the very basic Kepal Inn (r Rs 100)
road crosses a bridge to Budalas. On the with one room and the mere possibility of a
east side, 3km upstream from the bridge, cold shower. In a walled apricot orchard, an
the road crosses Shutinbar Nala. It’s a steep NAPWD resthouse (camp sites Rs 50, d standard/VIP Rs
8km to 10km up Shutinbar to a glacier at 300/500) has a couple of rooms.
its head. There are abandoned ruby mines
in the canyon. Getting There & Away
Further up Bar Valley is Torbuto Das, Chalt-bound minibuses depart in the early
about 13km from Chalt at the confluence morning from lower Khazana (Bank) Rd in
of the Daintar and Garamasai (or Tutu Uns) Gilgit for about Rs 50, returning the next
Nalas. West past Daintar village and about morning between 6am and 9am.
9km from Torbuto Das, in a meadow called
Taloybari, local herders have set up a simple CHALT TO GHULMET
camping area, with food available. This is a Near Chalt, the KKH runs along the edge
long day’s walk from Chalt; jeeps to Daintar of the ‘Asian Plate’, into which the Indian
can also be hired in Chalt. subcontinent ploughed 50 million years ago,
creating the Himalayan chain. There’s no sim-
Sleeping & Eating ple line, but roughly speaking Asia is to the
Chalt Tourist Inn (%05821-59192; Chowk Bazaar; d Rs north and the remnants of a chain of volcanic
400) is located in Chalt Chowk Bazaar and islands trapped between Asia and India are to
is easily the best option in Chalt, with clean the south (see the boxed text, p64).
rooms, a reliable restaurant (mains Rs 60 to Rs Eastwards the KKH arches around fertile
100) and a friendly manager who can provide Sikanderabad. Scratched into the walls hun-
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • C h a l t t o G h u l m e t 297
dreds of metres high on the north side of the from Peshawar. Up the nala is a base camp for
valley is the ‘road’ that was once Hunza’s link a 1979 Japanese assault on Rakaposhi. The
to the outside. views are outstanding, but it’s a long slog with
At Nilt are the ravine and the site of the no water and poor camping. The trail begins
fort where the 1891 British invasion nearly behind the hamlet of Yal, east of the nala.
stalled. East of Nilt in Thol (pronounced tole)
is a green-roofed shrine to Shah Wali, a Shiite Sleeping & Eating
preacher from Afghanistan who settled here In Ghulmet there are several bright and tacky
in the late 18th century. places crowded around the KKH bridge
At several points on the road there are over Ghulmet Nala offering refreshments
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
splendid views of Rakaposhi, culminating and accommodation.
in Ghulmet (not to be confused with Gulmit Rakaposhi View Point (%05821-59163; camping Rs
village in Gojal). At the east end of Ghulmet 50-100) Offers a few camp sites next to the busy
is touristy Ghulmet Nala, above which restaurant (mains Rs 100 to Rs 200) with col-
Rakaposhi rises in an unobscured sweep. Take ourful umbrellas, picnic tables and gift shop.
tea, take in the view and peruse the shops sell- Rakaposhi View Café & Camping Side (%05821-
ing crystals and 9/11 commemorative carpets 59122; camping Rs 50-100) Choose from dusty camp
Chapro
Bazaar
Sh
op
s
Hamman
t
Bar
River
Garamasai Nal
NAPWD
Resthouse
0 100 m
0 0.1 miles
a
Daintar
Taloybari
Dain
tar
Nala
Torbuto Das
Ba
r
Va
lle
y
Snow Dome
(5029m)
Na
la
r
ba
n
uti
Chaprot Sh
Chaprot Glacier
Pass
Ch Bola
apr Das Budalas
ot Old
Hot
Spring Trac
Val k to
ley
Merhbani
Hu
(5639m) Chaprot
nz
Rahbat
a
Kacheli
Glacier
Chalt
See Enlargement
KKH
Ghashumaling
er
Hun za Riv
To Ganish
(50km)
Nasirabad
To Karimabad
Minibuses depart Minapin (behind the
KK
H (25km) NAPWD resthouse) for Gilgit after about 6am,
River and come to Minapin from lower Khazana
2 1 (Bank) Rd in Gilgit around 1pm to 2pm (Rs 70,
To Gilgit Pisan 2 Minapin
Rs 10 for baggage). Minibuses depart Aliabad
Miniver
4 3 Hunza
H
R
5 Yal
Ghulmet return to Aliabad (Rs 30) from in front of
Nala
alk
Ghulm
Hapakun Glacier
Trac
Track
k
ALIABAD
ing
3 %05821
lk
Pisan
Wa
sites up top or better secluded sites under the Orientation & Information
trees below. Provides a night security guard A small telephone exchange is in the centre.
for campers. The post office is at the east end, 200m past
Rakaposhi Paradise Hotel (%05821-58146; d Rs the petrol station. A link road to Karimabad
400-700) Has two good doubles, plus a couple joins the KKH 2km west of the bazaar.
of dark and dingy cheaper rooms.
Sleeping & Eating
MINAPIN There are three foreigner-friendly hotels
From Pisan, just 2km east of Ghulmet, there’s bunched together near the ‘Gilgit 100km’ road
a turn-off to Minapin, 5km further east. marker. The best is the Hunza Continental Hotel
Sleepy Minapin is a popular place for travel- (%0355401086; s/d Rs 400/500) with rooms equipped
lers to ditch their packs and contemplate the with TVs and clean bathrooms. Hunza Gateway
mountains. It is also the base for numerous Hotel (%55202; s/d Rs 200/300) is a more basic op-
day walks and the start of an excellent trek tion and, up the nearby laneway, the Dumani
to another Rakaposhi base camp and longer Hotel (%55202; d Rs 250) is barely adequate.
treks towards Diran Peak (see p351).
The best accommodation is provided by Getting There & Away
Diran Hotel (%05821-58149; [email protected]; Get here from Gilgit on any Karimabad-
camp sites/dm Rs 100, s/d Rs 300-1200; s), in a walled bound transport. Minibuses leave Aliabad
orchard east of a large mosque. Rooms vary for Gilgit (Rs 90) and Sost (Rs 90) all day,
in comfort and size, and prices vary with the starting as early as 5am and leaving when
seasons, but you are sure to find something full. Suzukis go all day to/from Ganish (Rs 5)
that suits. The excellent restaurant (mains and Karimabad (Rs 10). To catch northbound
Rs 50 to Rs 350) has several tasty local spe- transport, Aliabad is a better choice than
cialities, such as chicken gorkon, cooked in Ganish as minibuses tend to leave Aliabad
a traditional stone pot. Trekking guides and when full.
lonelyplanet.com H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • K a r i m a b a d ( B a l t i t ) 299
Natco (%50111), with an office and depot at in what came to be called Karimabad. The
the north end of the bazaar, has minibuses to name is now also used for Baltit and the com-
Gilgit (Rs 100) departing at 8am, 1pm and plex of ancient tribal hamlets around it.
6pm; the service to Sost (Rs 100) via Gulmit Since the arrival of KKH tourism and
(Rs 30) and Passu (Rs 35) leaves at 11am. If overseas aid, Karimabad has prospered and
there are seats available, you could hop on the the bazaar has filled with hotels, restaurants,
bus to Kashgar (Rs 2700) at about 8am, which travel agencies and handicraft shops. The su-
originated in Gilgit. perb setting, grand fort, good food, friendly
locals and opportunity to swap tales with
KARIMABAD (BALTIT) other highway travellers make Karimabad
an ideal stopover.
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
%05821 / elevation 2438m
Baltit is Hunza’s ancient capital. Its magnifi-
cent fort, on a throne-like ridge with Ultar Orientation
Nala yawning behind it, has always been the Karimabad is perched high above the KKH.
kingdom’s focal point. The fort served as the Vehicle access from the KKH includes New
royal palace for over 750 years until last cen- Ganish Rd to the lower end of the bazaar
tury, when sounder quarters were built below from just west of Ganish, and a road to the
KARIMABAD (BALTIT) 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
To Queen To Ultar
A Victoria B Nala C D
Monument
To Post Office (200m); 9
Aliabad (9km) Jamaat Khana
Bazaa
Polo To Duikar
(7km)
r
Ground
Rd
Hunarmand 21
Market 25
39
INFORMATION 37 13 Barber's shop
Adventure Hunza................(see 39) 29
Alam Money Changer..............1 B2 35 28
Ali Book Stall.......................(see 30) 23
27
Baltit Book Centre....................2 C2 Dala To Altit Fort
Ch 38 (1.5km)
Concordia Expeditions.............3 C2 ann
Ul
el 2
ta
Hospital....................................4 B3 SLEEPING
r
Ri
hR
ni
d Baltit Bakery...........................28 B1
sh
4 Rd
Baltit Café & View Point.........29 B1
Café de Hunza I.................... 30 C2
Café de Hunza II....................31 B3
Hidden Paradise.....................32 C2
To KKH (2km); 8 Saghin Departmental MOMINABAD
Store....33 C2
Aliabad (7km);
Gilgit (85km) To Mominabad
SHOPPING
20 Hayat Silversmith....................34 B1
4 Hunza Art Museum................35 B1
Hunza Carpet........................36 C2
New Ganis Hunzo-e-Hayan......................37 B1
h Rd
Kado Gems Cutting & Polishing
Centre................................38 B2
KK
top of the bazaar from just west of Aliabad. Travel Walji’s (%57203; www.waljis.com; Zero Point)
Old Ganish Rd, the original access road from Tours and jeep hire with good drivers.
Ganish, is now a footpath.
Sights & Activities
Information BALTIT FORT
BOOKSHOPS The oldest parts of Baltit Fort (%57110; admission
Ali Book Stall (%57112; Café de Hunza, Hilltop Bazaar) Rs 300, plus camera Rs 150; h9am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Apr-Oct,
Stocks books and maps of the NA, plus carpets. 9.30am-4pm Nov-Mar) date from the 13th century.
Baltit Book Centre (Bazaar) A respectable collection of Over the years more houses and towers were
NA and Central Asia books in English. added, and it was fortified. To cement an al-
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Mohummond Book Store (%57040; Bazaar) Plenty liance with Baltistan’s Maqpon dynasty in the
of books on the local area plus a range of Lonely Planet 17th century, Mir Ayesho II (great-grandson
guides. of the legendary Girkis) married a daughter
of the Balti ruler, who sent artisans to build a
EMERGENCY fort at nearby Altit. The princess then came
If you need to make an emergency phone call to live in Hunza, bringing her own artisans
anywhere in the world, Café de Hunza has a to improve Baltit Fort. Balti-style renovation
satellite telephone available. continued under the reign of Ayesho II’s
Hospital (Old Ganish Rd) son. The name Baltit probably dates from
Police There is usually a police presence at Zero Point, this time.
below Darbar Hunza Hotel. The fort took on its present appear-
ance only in the last century or so. Mir
INTERNET ACCESS Nazim Khan added outer walls and fixed
Both branches of Café de Hunza (Zero Point up his own rooms with wallpaper, drapes,
and Hilltop Bazaar) should have connections fireplaces, balconies and tinted windows.
(per hour Rs 50) by the time you read this. He had the outer walls whitewashed, dra-
Kado Internet Services (Zero Point; per hr Rs 40; matically raising the fort’s visual impact
h10am-10pm) Plenty of monitors, CD burning (Rs 40) from all over the valley. Also added were
and scanning. a rooftop dais, where royal councils were
held in good weather, and the ‘lantern’
MONEY or skylight.
Alam Money Changer (Lower Bazaar; h8am-8pm) Nazim Khan’s grandson moved to mod-
Has better cash rates and accepts most currencies. ern quarters in Karimabad in 1945. By the
National Bank (New Ganish Rd; h9am-1pm Mon-Thu, time KKH travellers first saw the fort in the
9am-noon Fri & Sat) Accepts US dollars and UK pounds 1980s it was an abandoned shell, stripped of
cash or travellers cheques. anything of value and verging on collapse.
From 1990 to 1996 it was effectively taken
POST apart stone by stone and reassembled. This
Post office (h9am-4pm Mon-Thu, 9am-12.30pm Fri & was a painstaking effort using advanced
Sat) Located along the back road to Aliabad, about 700m preservation principles developed in Europe,
northwest of the bazaar’s centre. while retaining the unique construction and
earthquake-proofing techniques pioneered
TELEPHONE by the fort’s original builders.
Telephone Exchange (Old Ganish Rd; h24hr) The result is impressive and the renova-
tion work almost invisible. Several rooms
TRAVEL AGENCIES have exhibits of clothing and old photos,
Adventure Hunza (%57201; www.adventurehunza plus utensils and furnishings donated by
.com; Mountain Equipment, Baltit Fort Rd) The Karim local people. Visitors get a half-hour tour
brothers can help organise short and long treks and have with a knowledgeable local guide (you can-
equipment for sale and hire. not go in without one), and interested per-
Concordia Expeditions (%57182; www.concordia sons can use the library.
-expeditions.com) A well-known trekking and touring Tickets are sold at a small kiosk below
agency across the road from Hill Top Hotel. the fort and it is worth noting that the fort’s
Hunza Guides Pakistan (%57076; www.hgp.com.pk; administration is funded solely by these
Zero Point) Trekking and cultural tours. ticket sales.
lonelyplanet.com H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • B a l t i t F o r t 301
BALTIT FORT
9
First Floor
FIRST FLOOR
Storage (& Emergency
Stairs).............................1
Storage............................. 2
10 Rani's Bedroom.................3
Kitchen..............................4
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
1 4
Living Room (& Audio-
Visual Room).................5
3 6
Prison................................6
2 Lobby/Grain Storage.........7
Guards Gallery.................. 8
11 Toilet................................ 9
5 Library.............................10
Court Room (& Office).....11
7
Prison...............................12
Prison..............................13
12 13
8
SECOND FLOOR
Dressing Room.................14
35
27 Rani's Summer
Second Floor Courtyard.....................15
29 Toilet................................16
28
Bathroom.........................17
22
21 Rani's Room.....................18
16 17 30 Mir's Bedroom..................19
18 Living/Sun Room.............20
36
Male Guest Room............21
23 Male Guest Room............22
Open Courtyard.............. 23
31
Waiting Room................. 24
14 Drawing Room................ 25
15 19 Balcony............................26
24 32 Toilet...............................27
33 Dressing Room................ 28
Bathroom........................ 29
37 Bedroom for Newly
25
Married Couples..........30
20 38 Living Room.....................31
34
39 Musician's Place...............32
Armoury..........................33
26 Royal Dais........................34
Toilet...............................35
Terrace............................ 36
Courtiers' Terrace............ 37
Guard Room....................38
Roof Level Wazir's Dais.....................39
45
40
42
41
ROOF LEVEL
Fruit Storage....................40
Fruit Storage....................41
Terrace............................ 42
46 Mosque...........................43
Terrace............................ 44
44
Baltit-Style Terrace............................ 45
Skylight Terrace............................ 46
43
Reproduced with the Permission of the Aga Khan Trust for Culture
302 H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • K a r i m a b a d ( B a l t i t ) Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
soon drop to a lower channel that goes all and comfortable with bathrooms with hot
the way back. You can go right on around water. There’s a congenial host and the whole-
Karimabad, past Mominabad to the head- some and cheap communal dinners (see op-
works behind Baltit Fort, although the chan- posite) are open to nonguests and are a great
nel goes underground for part of the way. way to gather information.
Both these channels and the newer, higher Haider Inn (%57758; Zero Point; dm/s/d Rs 75/200/250)
channels distribute water from Ultar. There This is one of the original hotels in Hunza and
are seven channels running to the west and the friendly owner is happy to show you the
five to the east from Ultar Nala. The velvety one-room original Hunza Inn and the original
appearance of Ultar water is the result of travellers’ menu. There was plenty of renova-
minute flakes of mica. tion under way at the time of research to add
a restaurant. The rooms vary but overall are
QUEEN VICTORIA MONUMENT good value.
There is a ‘monument’ to Queen Victoria at Lucky Star Hotel (d Rs 300) Housed in the old
the top of the rock face behind Karimabad, post office, the spartan rooms have bathrooms
probably erected by Nazim Khan, and it can with hot water. It’s centrally located with a
be reached in an hour from Baltit. Take the restaurant upstairs and a good hot-snack
channel path above the polo ground. Five café downstairs.
minutes out, cross the channel and climb Rainbow Hotel (%57114; d Rs 300-400) The
stone steps beside an old watchtower. At the Rainbow is not welcoming, with glum rooms
top of the village, scramble over to a shal- with bathrooms upstairs and even gloomier
low cleft with some very large boulders. Go rooms downstairs that share a bathroom.
straight up to the base of the cliff before cross- Garden Lodge (%57168; dm/d Rs 100/400) The best
ing over to the monument; avoid a diagonal feature here is the quiet garden where you
crossing of the face because the top Ultar may be able to negotiate a camp site, as well
water channel spills down it. In Burushaski, as a few basic rooms that are adequately clean
the monument is called Malikamu Shikari and habitable.
(ma-li-ka-mu shi-ka-ri). Hotel Blue Moon (%57325; d without/with view
Rs 400/600) The small rooms have new bedding
MOMINABAD which makes them better than the average,
In the NA there are traces of an ancient caste but the precarious stairways don’t impress,
system, in which musicians and artisans and neither do the tiny bathrooms. There
ranked low. In the past they were often seg- are great views from the pleasant rear garden,
regated in their own separate villages. Though however, revealing the hotel’s, and for that
it’s quite ordinary looking, Mominabad (old matter Karimabad’s, precarious position.
name Berishal), near a turn on the Ganish– Karim Hotel (%57091; s/d Rs 250/450) Rooms are
Karimabad road, was such a village. Its people reasonable and the food OK. The best fea-
even speak their own dialect, Berishki. ture is the sunny patio with fine views of the
mountains above and the street life below.
Sleeping Mulberry Inn (%57178; camping Rs 80, dm/s/d
BUDGET Rs 100/400/600) The friendly staff at Mulberry
Tourist Cottage (Zero Point; d Rs 200) This basic op- Inn keep the basic, fan-cooled rooms very
tion is owned by the brother of the owner of clean and campers can enjoy a hot shower.
Haider Inn and you should inspect the room There’s an OK restaurant and a rooftop bar-
and the plumbing before settling in. becue in summer. If you are in luck the man-
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • K a r i m a b a d ( B a l t i t ) 303
ager’s mother will cook up some homemade TV, phone and bathrooms, but unfortunately
Hunza dishes. are not in brilliant condition. There’s a hugely
overpriced bar for foreigners (US$10 for a
MIDRANGE & TOP END Corona imported from Europe!), and when
Tourist Park Hotel (%57087; s/d Rs 300/600) Has a we were there, the restaurant and service com-
warren of rooms, some better than others, pared well only to Fawlty Towers.
around a quiet courtyard garden. It’s worth
inspecting a few and making an offer. The Eating
restaurant can be good, with Hunza speciali- RESTAURANTS
ties made by arrangement. Nearly all hotels have restaurants roughly in
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
World Roof Hotel (%57153; r Rs 300, s/d with balcony line with room quality; even the most basic of
Rs 600/800; i) The comfortable double rooms them can produce chicken curry, dhal, rice and
with balcony have great views and satellite TV; boiled potatoes. Relatively cheap Chinese beer
the budget rooms are not as appealing. There’s finds its way to a couple of general stores and
a decent multicuisine restaurant and a rooftop hotel restaurants and is worth asking for.
with views and occasional barbecues. Hunza Inn (%57186; 3-course veg/nonveg dinner
Hill Top Hotel (%57129; s/d Rs 800/1000) Hill Top, Rs 70/90) Simple and generous local and inter-
with its wide verandas and manicured gar- national-style dinners are held in a friendly
den, has a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. communal atmosphere. If you’re not staying
The rooms with views are good value and so here, book dinner in the morning.
is the restaurant. The early- and late-season Hidden Paradise (%57464; mains Rs 80-180; h9am-
discounts make this an even better choice. 9pm) This quaint restaurant has a big menu
Hunza View Hotel (%57141; [email protected] of inexpensive and delicious Hunza dishes;
.pk; s/d standard Rs 1000/1200, s/d deluxe Rs 1400/1600) eg haneetze doudo (apricot soup; Rs 60) and
Situated below the telephone exchange, Hunza chapshuro (Hunza pizza; Rs 150). The cuisine
View has rooms with satellite TV and valley is definitely not haute, but this is a great way
views and, with its souvenir shop, is geared for to sample local food with friends and enjoy
groups. It has a good restaurant, but presents views of Altit and Duikar.
a long uphill walk to the bazaar. Baltit Café & View Point (%03355401620; mains
Hotel Hunza Embassy (%57001; www.hunzaem Rs 80-220) The main selling point here is the
bassy.com; Zero Point; s/d standard Rs 1500/2000, s/d deluxe pleasant garden dining area with excellent
Rs 2000/3000) This hotel was recently refurbished views. Find a sunny or shady seat and sip a cold
and is looking splendid with lots of carved drink or tuck into the soups, burgers, snacks
wood softening the concrete construction. and several Pakistani and Chinese dishes.
Both standard and deluxe rooms are spacious, Hunza Baltit Inn (%57012; Zero Point; mains
clean and comfortable. The deluxe rooms have Rs 80-300) The premier hotel restaurant in
a bathtub and the excellent restaurant serves Karimabad has tasty renditions of Pakistani,
several delicious Hunza dishes in addition to Chinese and Continental cuisine, but in par-
the usual multicuisine. ticular we recommend the Pakistani dishes
Hunza Baltit Inn (%57012; Zero Point; s/d Rs 2500/3000) such as the delicious chicken and ginger handi
The attractive and low-key Hunza Baltit Inn (Rs 290).
is managed by the very professional Serena Hotel Hunza Embassy (%57001; www.hunzaem
Hotels group. The spotless rooms are surpris- bassy.com; Zero Point; mains Rs 90-200) This is a another
ingly tiny but do have TV and first-rate bath- good place to seek out Hunza cuisine: try hoilo
rooms and share a sunny balcony from which garma (spinach pasta) and burutz berikutz
to take in the view across to Baltit Fort. The (chapati stuffed with fresh cheese, carrot tops,
rooms have either double or twin beds. There’s spring onions, coriander and mint). There’s
a large and popular restaurant here, as well as a also an extensive multicuisine menu.
Hunza-decorated room for traditional dining.
Breakfast is included in the tariff. CAFÉS & QUICK EATS
Darbar Hunza Hotel (%57105; www.hunzadarbar Lucky Star Hotel (mains Rs 25-35) Most appealing for
.com.pk; Zero Point; s/d Rs 3000/4000) This conspicuous its Rs 10 snacks (Hunza doughnuts, pakoras
hotel has wonderful views from the lobby, and samosas) and tea, Lucky Star neverthe-
restaurant and roof down the valley. The 40 less serves inexpensive curries including dhal,
spacious rooms, some with double beds, have chapati and veg curry (Rs 35).
304 H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • K a r i m a b a d ( B a l t i t ) lonelyplanet.com
HUNZA CUISINE
Meals in Hunza include the likes of potatoes, rice, wholemeal bread and noodle soup, with oil
and spices used sparingly. But there’s more to Hunza cooking than that, as you’ll see if you’re
lucky enough to be invited home for dinner.
Milk products include milk (mamu), yogurt and diltar, a cultured buttermilk. A soft cheese
called burus is soothing for upset stomachs. Yogurt and burus are available by request at some
hotels. Kurut is a sour, hard cheese; you’re most likely to get this from shepherds in exchange
for things like tea, salt or sugar.
Pitti is thick whole-wheat bread baked in coals. Chapshuro is ‘Hunza pizza’: meat, tomatoes
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
and onions traditionally cooked into a thick chapati but sometimes just sandwiched between two
chapatis and fried. Burushapik (‘cheese-chapati’) is burus cooked into a whole-wheat chapati, the
outside covered in apricot-kernel oil, and served cold – good and very filling. Burutze berikutz is
similar but with herbs (coriander and mint) added and served in small pieces.
Doudo is a noodle soup with vegetables, thickened with egg and whole-wheat flour. It comes
in many varieties, eg kurutze doudo, with kurut; and delicious haneetze doudo, with nuts or crushed
apricot kernels, garlic and onion. Apricot soup is made from dried apricots, flour and water.
Most of the Northern Areas’ dried fruit comes from Hunza, and dried Hunza apricots are
found in bazaars all over Asia. Apricots and mulberries usually ripen by June. Peaches, plums,
apples, grapes, cherries and walnuts appear in early autumn. Dried mulberries make a marvel-
lous travel snack.
Among drinks is a tea brewed from tumuro (or chumuru), a wild alpine herb similar to sage
that is said to cool and clear the head, especially at high elevation. Despite Islamic prohibition
and disapproval from the Aga Khan, some Hunzakuts carry on pre-Muslim traditions by brewing
a rough grape wine called mel, and a potent mulberry firewater called arak. Arak (‘Hunza water’)
may be offered to you by friends, though your stomach may not be up for the ride. Some shops
also sell nonalcoholic Pakistani beer.
Café de Hunza I (%57112; Hilltop Bazaar; breakfast Rs events – you will probably be more than
55-90, cakes Rs 25-50, coffee Rs 40-75; h7.30am-late; i) welcome to bolster the audience and you
The KKH has delivered espresso coffee (Rs might even get an offering of local wine.
75) to sip while munching on Hunza walnut Hunza’s drum and surnai (a kind of oboe)
cake (Rs 50) and reading the newspaper (albeit music is called hareep: there are different
two days old). Not surprisingly, this venture, versions for weddings, festivals, polo matches
which also does muesli and omelette break- and other events.
fasts and sells books and souvenirs, has hit the
spot with travellers and there’s now another Shopping
branch at Zero Point. The bazaar is lined with art and handicraft
shops, such as Hunza Carpet, many selling
SELF-CATERING the woollen wares made by local women
Self-caterers will find fresh fruit and vegeta- trained by the Threadnet Hunza programme.
bles less plentiful here than in Gilgit. Hunza-Nagyr wool is renowned for its dura-
Saghin Departmental Store has a reasonable bility, though it’s being displaced by factory
selection of canned and packaged food, batter- imitations. Hunza Art Museum is another
ies, film and toiletries. Baltit Bakery will often reliable store, and can provide guarantee cer-
have pitti (whole-wheat bread). General stores tificates for semiprecious stones and gems.
and bakeries are also good places to search for Kado Gems Cutting & Polishing Centre (www.rc
dried fruit, snacks and trekking supplies. hunza.org) The follow-up project to Threadnet
Hunza is designed to empower local women,
Entertainment in this case by training them in gem cutting,
Traditional dances are occasionally per- polishing and selling. At the time of research
formed for tour groups at the midrange the finishing touches were being put on the
hotels by local musicians and artists. It is shop which will eventually sparkle with rubies,
worthwhile seeking an invitation to these sapphire, topaz and quartz.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • A r o u n d K a r i m a b a d 305
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
from Adventure Hunza have also opened a Altit village; or look across to Rakaposhi and
CD shop here, Kiran Audio Video Centre. Golden Peak (Diran Peak is hidden from
view); and up to Bubulimating. Sunrise and
Getting There & Around sunset are magnificent. There are even better
Minibuses to Gilgit (Rs 100) scout Karimabad views from Khosht, a promontory leaning out
bazaar between 6.30am and 7am in search over Ultar Meadow and the glacier, and a five-
of passengers. After 7am, you may need to hour round trip from Duikar.
head down to Aliabad to easily catch one of
the many minibuses (Rs 90) heading south. Sleeping & Eating
The most convenient transport to Sost For many years Altit’s popular Kisar Inn pro-
(Rs 90) is also found at Aliabad. You could vided everything that KKH travellers needed,
also try Ganish, but buses tend to fill up at but with the recent decline in tourism this
Aliabad first. hotel has, at least temporarily, closed its doors.
Passenger Suzukis drive through the bazaar Inquiries about if/when it will reopen should
and then do an Aliabad–Karimabad–Ganish be directed to the Eagle’s Nest Hotel.
loop all day for Rs 10. Sky Camping Site & Restaurant (%05821-58420;
camping Rs 50, dm Rs 200) This option has beds in
AROUND KARIMABAD tents set up in a potato field. There are two
Ultar Meadow cold-water bathrooms and room to pitch
A climb to the beautiful Ultar icefall with its your own tent. The restaurant (mains Rs 100
amphitheatre of peaks including the 6000m to Rs 220) is a couple of tables under an
pinnacle, Bubulimating, or Lady Finger, will umbrella! The view, of course, is sublime.
give you an appreciation for the vertical lie of Eagle’s Nest Hotel (%05821-58274; www.eagles
the land. This can be a strenuous day trip or nesthotel.com; s/d from Rs 800/2000, ste Rs 2500-3500)
an easier overnight one; see p353 for details Nearby, Duikar’s Eagle Nest has stupen-
of the walk. dous views from all its comfortable rooms
Remember to carry water! Some people plus first-rate Hunza food. It’s open from
hire a local guide for around Rs 500 per day: March to the end of October and can organ-
useful but not essential. But going alone is not ise transfers from Karimabad. It’s popular,
recommended; several solo hikers have disap- so ring to see if there’s room. The restau-
peared and others have been injured. rant (mains Rs 100 to Rs 220) has Hunza,
Pakistani and Chinese dishes and generous
Altit Fort & Village buffets. Breakfast is included in the tariff.
This picturesque fort overlooking the vil-
lage of Altit (admission Rs 100) beside the Hunza Getting There & Away
River was undergoing extensive renovation Tracks run to Altit from Karimabad bazaar
at the time of research and was closed to the and from New Ganish Rd. The turn for
public. The 1000-year-old village has been Duikar is just before Altit, a 20-minute walk
renovated and rehabilitated and you can be from Karimabad bazaar. Eagle’s Nest Hotel
walked around the charming village with the has a booking office in Karimabad, opposite
aid of a local guide. The fort is about 1.5km Hidden Paradise restaurant, where accom-
from Karimabad. Turn right after the jamaat modation and transfers can be organised.
khana (Ismaili community hall) and pass the A hired jeep from Karimabad to Duikar is
old village pool to the fort gate. Fort is gela Rs 1000. Morning Suzukis run between Altit
(geh-lah) in Burushaski. and Ganish/Aliabad.
306 H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • G a n i s h Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
with hospitality and rewarded with a rich derful views. There’s a good restaurant, gar-
cultural experience. den and information service.
Sumayar Nala, with views of 7270m Diran and spine of the Karakoram. It does so in Gojal
the Silkiang Glacier. A footpath leaves the jeep (the still-used historical name for the region
track near a powerhouse, initially following commonly described as ‘upper Hunza’),
the channel. In the afternoon after freezing which extends from the pass to where the river
nights there is a rockfall hazard in the nala. turns west into ‘Hunza proper’. The High
Nagyr village was the capital of the old state Karakoram is consequently more accessible
of Nagyr, and descendants of the mir still here than anywhere else on the KKH. The
live here. It has a hospital, a friendly police Hunza River picks its way among great fans
post (where you will need to register) and a of alluvium carried down by smaller streams,
few basic shops and restaurants, as well as an and most villages are built on these fertile
NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300). deposits. At Passu and Gulmit, several major
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
glaciers reach nearly to the Highway.
Hoper ‘The scenery is stern and impressive, but too
The area from Nagyr village to Hoper looks gloomy and harsh to be really sublime’, wrote
fertile and lovely in spring. Hoper (or Hopar) the British explorer Reginald Schomberg in
is a cluster of villages around a natural bowl 1935. Mountains with razor-edge summits
at a bend of the Bualtar Glacier, 19km from and bare walls drop sheer to the river, and
the KKH. Opposite Hoper, the Bualtar, also the wind drives up the valley even on bril-
known as Hoper Glacier, is joined by the white liant days. The clearest and most storm-free
Barpu Glacier. From here, you can hike beside weather is in early autumn, and if you’re fit,
the Bualtar or cross it and climb to summer this is the place to trek and get a feeling for
villages along both glaciers. This is also a base the mountains and its inhabitants.
for treks into the high, glacier-draped peaks Most Gojalis are Wakhi Tajik (one of seven
called the Hispar Muztagh (see p352). Tajik tribes in Central Asia), descendants of
At the end of the road are a couple of basic nomadic herders from Afghanistan, and
hotels. Hoper Hilton Inn (%05821-58083; camping Ismaili Muslims. Traditionally they have de-
Rs 60, s/d Rs 300/600) is probably the pick with six pended on the raising of sheep and yaks, and to
rooms with hot water and a restaurant (set a lesser extent on cropping. They’re certainly
dinner Rs 300) with a communal table and a the most warm-hearted people on the KKH,
TV. Hoper Hilton (camping Rs 30, r Rs 300) is even more with easy greetings and hospitality for both
basic. Either of these hotels can help find por- male and female visitors.
ters or guides for day walks and longer treks. Depending on whom you ask, khun jerab is
Wakhi for either Valley of Blood or Valley of
Getting There & Away the Khan. The broad Khunjerab Pass was for
A daily minibus runs between Hoper and centuries used by Kyrgyz and Tajik herders,
Gilgit (Rs 150) and Aliabad (Rs 50), departing until Hunza raiders hounded them out in the
at 7am. The return bus departs Gilgit at noon. late 18th century, after which Hunza’s rulers
A hired jeep is about Rs 1500 for the return declared the area to be ‘royal’ pasturelands –
trip from Karimabad, and Rs 4000 from Gilgit. so either version fits.
Cargo jeeps occasionally go in via Hassanabad A steady trickle of horseback commerce
to Sumayar and via Ganish to Nagyr village, crossed the Khunjerab (Chinese: Hongqilapu)
heading back early the next morning. until the 1950s, when China–Pakistan hostili-
On foot from Karimabad via Ganish, Nagyr ties closed the border. By the mid-1960s, the
village is about three hours and Hoper five two countries had made amends and set to
to six hours. From Hassanabad via Shayar, work on a road over the pass. ‘Khunjerab Top’
Hoper is a very long day’s walk. (4730m) was opened to official traffic and
trade in 1982, and to tourists in 1986, though
intrepid travellers had already discovered it.
GOJAL & THE The crossing is not only between countries
and between watersheds (rivers flow north
KHUNJERAB PASS into the Tarim Basin and south to the Arabian
Sea), but also between two of the world’s
The Khunjerab and Ghujerab Rivers merge major mountain ranges, the Pamir and the
below the Khunjerab Pass to form the Hunza Karakoram. In the 2½ hours from Sost to
River, the only stream to cut across the high Pirali, the transition is evident from the deep,
308 G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • G u l m i t lonelyplanet.com
Khunjerab Pass
NORTHERN
AREAS
Koksil Camp
Kilik River
Dih
(KNP, KSF (Abandoned) Chinese
Security The external boundaries of Pakistan
Checkpoints) KSF & India on this map have not been
Checkpoint Post authenticated and may not be correct.
Chapurs Khu
an njer
ab Khunjerab
Kermin Misgar
KKH Pass
Ri
nz a Rive Gh
ve
Hu r uje Riv
r
rab K er CHINA
KVO Checkpoint A
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Ri R
Afiyatabad ve A
Nala r K
Khudabad Sost O
Sost Qarùn Koh
Gircha
Avgarch (7164m)
R
Khunjerab
Boibar
A
Jamalabad National
M
Ghalapan Morkhun Qarun Pir Pass Park
Khyber (Khaiber) Jurjurkhona Sar (5790m)
R
Yashpirt Tupopdan (6106m)
A
Batu
Patundas ra Gla
N
c Dut
Mungalig Sar
ier
G
(4570m) Sh (5931m)
Passu Glacier Passu im er
E
Avdegar Ziarat sha Riv
Borit Sar l Shimshal Pass
Ultar II (5640m) Hussaini
(7388m) Shimshal
Ghulkin See Around Passu &
Glacier Gulmit Gulmit Map (p311)
Adver Sar
Karimabad ut
Nazimabad h k (6400m)
Ganish s Mulungutti Sar
Shi ala (7025m) Destaghil Sar Central Karakoram
N
Hunza River KKH Kitchener (7885m) Yazghil Sar National Park
Monument Gojal (5964m)
To Gilgit
(105km) Nagyr
Hispar
angular gorge of the Khunjerab River to the stuffed snow leopard, gems and firearms,
rounded Pamir valleys. including the matchlock gun said to have in-
jured the British commander at the Battle of
GULMIT Nilt in 1891. If it isn’t open, ask at the nearby
%05822 / elevation 2700m Hunza Marco Polo Inn (see opposite).
With a library, a museum and the mir’s tra-
ditional second home, Gulmit (gool-mit) is OLD GULMIT
the closest thing to a town in Gojal, and is The mir’s palace (under restoration) is at the
its unofficial capital. It’s very picturesque northern end of the polo ground. Until the
in spring and early summer when the fruit early ’70s the mir of Hunza lived here for three
trees bloom, and again in autumn when the months of the year, presiding over local dur-
orchards glow red, orange and yellow. There bars (councils). A cluster of houses to the left
are many great treks here, including a number of the palace is the original village. The tallest
of fine day walks. of these is said to be Gulmit’s oldest, possibly
The village is centred on its old polo 200 years old; before the palace was built the
ground, 700m off the KKH, though several mir stayed in it on his Gulmit sojourns. To
hotels and the National Bank are down on its left are the carved lintels of an old Shiite
the Highway. The telephone exchange and mosque from the early 19th century, before
police station are 3km south of the village Gojalis converted to Ismailism. You can also
chowk (marketplace) on the KKH. see local women dyeing and weaving tradi-
tional cloth in the old building next to the
Sights & Activities palace. The Threadnet Hunza programme
CULTURAL MUSEUM has finished now that the ladies have a viable
A unique collection of Hunza history is industry. You may be able to purchase items
packed into the dusty Cultural Museum (admis- here, but most of the handiwork goes to shops
sion Rs 30): utensils, musical instruments, a in Karimabad (see p304).
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • G u l m i t 309
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
northeast from Kamaris brings you to the the Tupopdan Restaurant (mains Rs 50 to Rs
ruins of Andra Fort, built about 200 years 105), where a few Gojali dishes feature among
ago to defend Gulmit in Hunza’s struggles the usual multicuisine fare.
with neighbouring Nagyr. Ask local people Village Guesthouse (camping Rs 50, s/d Rs 400/600)
for Andra Gelah (geh-la). By the polo ground, with a large walled gar-
The track continues past Kamaris for den, this place can be good value, though
another hour, northwest to the base of the some doubles have shared toilet and iffy hot
Gulmit Glacier. A long day or overnight op- shower and all can be a bit stuffy. It may be
tion is to continue on the footpath along the hard to find the caretaker initially but you
south side of the glacier, an area known locally eventually will.
as Zherav, where there are some shepherds’ Hunza Marco Polo Inn (%50227; www.marco
huts. Stay away on windy or rainy days, when poloinngulmit.com; old wing s/d Rs 1400/1500, new wing s/d
rockfall hazard is high. Rs 2500/3000) This hotel boasts an attractive gar-
den and a knowledgeable and helpful host. The
Ghulkin Village rooms in the old wing are quite comfortable
From Kamaris, a footpath crosses the stream
below Gulmit Glacier, then becomes a jeep
track up to Ghulkin village, and returns to GULMIT 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
NAPWD Resthouse..................8 A2
m
but those in the new wing (under construc- through at about 10am. Flag down minibuses
tion at the time of research) will have central anywhere along the Highway. It’s a four- to
heating, bathtubs, telephones and ‘eventually’ five-hour walk to Passu – about 15km via Borit
satellite TV and internet connectivity. The Lake.
new wing also houses the grand restaurant
(mains Rs 120 to Rs 300), which can be rec- PASSU
ommended for its spring water and other liq- %05822 / elevation 2770m
uid refreshments. There are interconnected Sitting between the black Batura Glacier
rooms for families and a discount can usually and the white Passu Glacier, this is another
be negotiated. place to stop if you like to hike. At 2400m,
Passu is the base for some dramatic hikes and
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
ISMAILI ISLAM
An 8th-century split among Shiites, who disagreed on which son of the sixth imam (Muslim
religious leader) should succeed him, gave rise to the Ismaili (Maulai) branch of Islam. For Ismaili
Shiites, the line of imams continues into the present. Ismailis today number several million in
pockets of Pakistan (namely Hunza and Gojal), India, East Africa, Iran and Syria, and their present
leader (since 1957), Prince Karim Aga Khan, is considered to be imam No 49. Doctrines are more
esoteric and practices less regimented than those of Ithnashari Shiites or Sunnis. The style of
prayer is a personal matter (eg there is no prostration), the mosque is replaced by a community
hall called a jamaat khana and women are less secluded. The present Aga Khan has considerably
modernised Ismaili life and set up trusts and institutions to bring social and political security to
the scattered Ismaili communities.
lonelyplanet.com G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • Pa s s u 311
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Va
Passu Yashvandan
a path (marked by cairns) to the riverbed,
y
Glacier
Passu Lake Breeze
Shepherds' Glacier
Huts
Restaurant then up another path on the bank to the first
Passu Kharamabad bridge, about 1km from Yashvandan. It’s just
Ghar
KK
H River To a cluster of cables with planks and branches
Hunza Avdegar
To Borit Sar
Borit
Lake
(3km) woven in. On a windy day it will make you
Zarabad
Hussaini feel like Indiana Jones.
On the far side a trail branches left at an-
Ghulkin other cairn, but you should continue straight
Glacier
on. Climb towards the canyon walls and cross
the erosion gully as high as possible – don’t
Gulmit
Glacier
Ghulkin attempt to short cut across the unstable
Andra gully. The trail then leads gently down to the
Kamaris Fort
small village of Zarabad. A dramatic narrow
track then descends a sheer rock face to the
Gulmit
second bridge.
To Ganish (30km) Hussaini, back on the other side, is in a hol-
low below the KKH. It has a warm spring by
frequently get into trouble here. For help find- the river’s edge, used by Hussaini women for
ing a guide, ask any of Passu’s hotel-wallahs, washing (so tourists are probably not welcome
and see p337. At the time of research Hunza to bathe). At the north end of the village is a
Valley Experience (%50004 ext 42) was setting white shrine to Shah Talib, a Muslim mission-
up an office opposite the Glacier Breeze ary active in the 17th or 18th century. A path
Restaurant to provide trekking and cultural climbs to the Highway near the shrine.
tours with guides and jeeps for hire. For a
two-day excursion across the Hunza River Yunz Valley
see the Avdegar trek on p355. For the de- The massive caramel-coloured rock behind
scription of a five-day trek along the giant Passu is Zard Sar (Yellow Top). A vigorous
Batura Glacier from Passu, see p356. Further six- to seven-hour loop climbs to the glacial
treks in the region are described in detail in Yunz Valley behind it, offering excellent views
Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Karakoram of both the Batura and Passu Glaciers. This
& Hindukush. And remember never to walk is a hot, strenuous walk with no water along
alone. the trail.
Skirt around the lake below Passu Glacier
Glacier Views and follow cairns west up gravel and then
An easy trail goes to the lake below Passu scree to the top of a rock formation half an
Glacier from the stone barns 500m south hour from the lake. From here the trail over
of Passu Inn. Better views of this beautiful the glacier’s lateral moraine, west up a small
glacier are from the Yunz Valley and Passu parallel valley and north up to Yunz Valley
Ghar trails. itself, is fairly clear. From a pair of huts an
In the other direction, the toe of the Batura hour up Yunz Valley, a steep 1½- to two-hour
Glacier is 4km north of Batura Inn. The views detour climbs to Zard Sar, with views over the
improve as you climb the moraine along its Hunza Valley (stick to the track: a tourist is
south side. said to have fallen to his death from here).
312 G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • Pa s s u Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
At the end of Yunz Valley, keep right and congruous location. Signature dishes include
descend steeply past more huts to the valley chicken cooked in local herbs, purziyh sahar
and moraine beside the enormous 56km-long (paneer with spicy fried spinach) and Hunza
Batura Glacier. From here, it’s still two or apricot chicken. There’s even a kids’ menu.
three hours down and across the low plateau The apricot cake (Rs 45 per slice) is divine, and
to the right, back to Passu. chocoholics will have their prayers answered.
And there’s real coffee! The tented accom-
Passu Ghar modation is set up in summer and includes
This hike climbs about 700m in elevation mattresses, sleeping bags and hot showers.
to shepherds’ huts along the south side of Entrepreneurial chef Ahmed Ali Khan can
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
the Passu Glacier and back, in six to seven provide dried and vacuum-packed meals for
hours. The trail leaves the KKH at a Highway trekkers, and runs cooking classes (Rs 300, at
sign 500m beyond Shisper View Hotel, where least an hour). Inquire about the full-moon
power lines cross the road. The huts are about dinner where a filling set meal (Rs 500) is
two hours beyond the bottom of the glacier. followed by a hike onto the eerily luminous
Passu Glacier.
Borit Lake Batura Inn (%50003 ext 22; camping free, dm/s/d
A walk from Passu to Borit Lake and back Rs 75/150/200) Friendly Batura Inn, 800m north
takes four to five hours. From the Passu of the village on the KKH, has some very tired,
Ghar trail, branch left near the bottom of threadbare rooms. There’s no running hot
the glacier. water but you can request it by the bucketful.
Over the years this once-big lake has be- The restaurant (set dinner Rs 90) is also basic
come swampy and brackish (borit is Wakhi but has access to mountain spring water. The
for ‘salty’), possibly because the underground owner keeps a rumour book for travellers to
seepage that feeds it has decreased as the gla- gain and impart knowledge about the area.
ciers recede. Villagers of nearby Ghulkin have Shisper View Hotel (%50003, ext 9; camping Rs 80,
organised themselves to keep hunters from dm/d shared bathroom/d Rs 80/300/500) This hotel is
threatening migratory waterfowl, mainly 1.5km south on the KKH and although some
tufted ducks, which rest here in April and rooms have great mountain and glacier views,
May and again in October and November. their gloominess and the dark restaurant (set
For information on seasonal accommoda- dinner Rs 90) let this place down.
tion at the lake and walks beyond, see p309. A Passu Peak Inn (www.passupeakinn.cjb.net; dm/s
return option from the lake is simply to walk Rs 70/200, d Rs 350-500) The rooms at this small
half an hour down the bouldery jeep road to hotel, 1.5km north of the village, are spartan
the KKH and hitch back to Passu. The lake but spotless with cold showers. Hot water
also makes a good overnight stop on a walk plumbing is planned!
between Passu and Gulmit. Passu Tourist Lodge (%50004, ext 37; s/d Rs 1200/1400)
This comfortable, well-run lodge, 2.5km north
Sleeping & Eating of Passu on the KKH, is under the same man-
Passu Inn (%50003 ext 38; dm/s/d with cold-water bath- agement as the Silk Route Lodge in Gulmit and
room Rs 100/150/200, s/d with hot shower Rs 350/500) This is aimed at tour groups. Rooms are in spacious
friendly inn is right by the KKH bus stand and private cottages and the restaurant (mains Rs
close to the small village shops. The rooms 80 to Rs 170) has a multicuisine menu.
are comfortable, spacious and clean, with Passu Ambassador Hotel (%50004, ext 36; s/d
the more-expensive rooms upstairs (worth Rs 1200/1600) Another comfortable option aimed
bargaining for). The good restaurant (mains at groups, with carpeted rooms and reliable
Rs 60 to Rs 90) has simple but delicious set hot water, plus satellite TV in the lounge. The
meals (dinner Rs 275), and access to fresh lodge is 2km north of the village on the KKH,
mountain spring water. and the restaurant (mains Rs 150 to Rs 230)
oGlacier Breeze Restaurant (%50003 ext is very good.
17; camping/tent Rs 70/250) High above the Highway, Hotel Sarai Silk Route (% 50003, ext 9; s/d
with a stairway to taste-bud heaven, this excel- Rs 1800/2000) This small, six-room hotel, 1.5km
lent restaurant (mains Rs 80 to Rs 240, open south of the village, has delightful carpeted
7am to late) continues to astound travellers rooms with bathtubs in the bathrooms. The
with its quality Hunza-inspired fare and in- front-facing rooms have views of Tupopdan.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • S h i m s h a l Va l l e y 313
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Southbound minibuses pass through after
6am, and the first northbound minibus passes Sleeping & Eating
through at around 10am; put your bags beside Sifat Guesthouse (dm/r Rs 100/400) This guesthouse
the road and the buses will stop. After midday, is designed on traditional Shimshali themes
buses are far from frequent. You can travel offering a carpeted dining room/dorm and a
from Passu to Gulmit (Rs 20, 25 minutes), few basic rooms with bucket hot water.
Aliabad (Rs 60, two hours) and Sost (Rs 50, Mountain Palace Tourist Lodge (r Rs 400) Next
one hour). door and under the same management as
Shimshal Tourist Lodge, the rooms here are
SHIMSHAL VALLEY more basic with bucket hot water.
Shimshal is a large Wakhi-speaking village Shimshal Tourist Lodge (camping Rs 100, r Rs 600)
supported by vast herds of sheep, goats and This hotel was undergoing a major expan-
yaks that are moved up and down the valley sion at the time of research. New rooms
with the seasons. These traditional migrations under construction boast tiled bathrooms
provide the basis for some of Gojal’s most ex- and potentially running hot water. A set
quisite trekking (see p357). Remote Shimshal dinner here costs Rs 200.
was closed to visitors until 1986, after which
increasing numbers of adventurers braved the Getting There & Away
mountain trail through the narrow Shimshal The road to Shimshal is one of the more ex-
gorge. It was from upper Shimshal, even as citing mountain roads in northern Pakistan.
late as the 1890s, that raiders harried caravans There are passenger jeeps from Passu to
heading to Kashmir. In 2003 a jeep road was Shimshal that cost Rs 100 per person and
inaugurated that finally linked Shimshal vil- take 2½ to three hours to cover the 55km.
lage to the KKH. Rockslides frequently cause delays. A special
The road to Shimshal leaves the KKH at hire will cost Rs 3500.
the snout of the Batura Glacier, 6km north
of Passu. It crosses the Hunza River on a PASSU TO SOST
suspension bridge and then enters the nar- North of Passu the KKH crosses a bridge
row gorge of the lower Shimshal River; a over the stream from the Batura Glacier, one
more ominous gateway would be hard to of the Karakoram’s biggest, reaching 56km
imagine. After about an hour of negotiating back into the Batura Muztagh. The dirty
a shifting, cliff-hugging jeep track and cross- grey ice comes almost to the road. East of
ing a couple of daunting bridges you arrive the bridge is the narrow entrance to the
at Dut, a reafforested oasis with no perman- Shimshal Valley. A further 12km brings you
ent settlement but a few huts for shepherds to the village of Khyber and another 10km to
and road workers. Soon after Dut the valley Morkhun, both with basic accommodation.
opens out, closes in again, and glaciers ap- The Boibar Valley above Morkhun is prob-
proach the road. It’s hard to picture more ably the most historically interesting part of
awe-inspiring and stark scenery. Flowing off Gojal. Tajiks arrived here from what is now
the lofty white mass of Destaghil Sar (7885m), Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor in per-
Mulungutti Glacier descends right to the road. haps the 16th century, founding the village
Shimshal is made up of three villages: of Avgarch (3200m). An old wood-carved
Aminabad, Shimshal and Khizarabad. mosque and two forts still stand, reminders
Aminabad is announced by vast fields of of the battles with Kyrgyz people. After Gojal
314 G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • S o s t & A f i y a t a b a d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
A B C D
INFORMATION Post Office..............................8 D2 Hotel Riveria..........................14 C2
Checkpoint..............................1 A2 Telephone Exchange................9 A2 Park Hotel..............................15 C2
Customs...................................2 B2 PTDC Motel Sost...................16 A2
Immigration.............................3 A2 SLEEPING Sky Bridge Inn........................17 C2
1
Moneychanger.........................4 B2 Asia Star Hotel.......................10 C2
Moneychanger.........................5 B2 Badakhshan Hotel..................11 A2 TRANSPORT
Moneychanger.........................6 B2 Four Brothers Hotel & Natco Ticket Office................18 B2 To Dry Port
(500m)
National Bank..........................7 A2 Restaurant..........................12 B2 Nellum Transport...................19 B2
Pharmacy.............................(see 12) Hotel Al-Mahmood................13 B1 PTDC Transport.....................20 A2
13
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
To Khunjerab
Pass (84km) To Sost (2km);
3 9 Gilgit (192km)
1 12
19 Karakoram Hwy
20 4 5 15 8
18
7 17
16
2 11
2 6
10 14
came under the control of the mirs of Hunza, Old Sost is a quiet backwater and most trav-
they settled at Gircha, Jamalabad, Morkhun ellers will never see the original village of Sost
and Ghalapan. If you’re fit, you can climb up (also spelled Sust), or Upper Sost, at 3100m on
the rugged, boulder-strewn Boibar Valley to a ledge above the Highway. But if you have the
Avgarch, 450m above Morkhun, and return time you can strike north through fields from
in about six hours (but stay away on rainy old Sost to Upper Sost and follow the trails
or windy days, when rocks hurtle down the to Sost Nala. The walled fields, the poplars
scree fields). See Lonely Planet’s Trekking in and fruit orchards, and the dramatic canyon
the Karakoram & Hindukush for details on make for a very different scene from the one
going further than this. along the road.
Across the river from Afiyatabad, about an
Sleeping & Eating hour’s walk away, is Khudabad village and
The following places all do basic food. Khudabad Nala.
Khyber Inn (r Rs 400) Also in Khyber, this
gloomy hotel has spartan triples. Orientation & Information
Greenland Hotel (r Rs 500) At Morkhun, the The post office, Natco, PTDC and all long-
Greenland has serviceable doubles with hot distance transport options are in Afiyatabad.
shower for a highly negotiable price. The National Bank here accepts cash in US
Khyber Village Guesthouse (s/d Rs 800/1200) At dollars only, and buys rupees. Moneychangers,
Khyber, the best option is this cosy, tidy also in Afiyatabad, exchange Chinese money
brown house at the top of the town, right on for rupees and US dollars; cash rates are a
the Highway. bit better than the bank’s rates. The police
(%51223) are based at old Sost.
SOST & AFIYATABAD Sleeping & Eating
%05823 / elevation 2700m Four Brothers Hotel & Restaurant (%51204; s/d
In 1996 Pakistani customs and immigration Rs 150/250) The rooms at Four Brothers are
shifted several kilometres upstream to what overpriced even with these modest rates.
is officially called Afiyatabad, sometimes Rooms and beds are very bottom end, as are
called New Sost but most frequently just the bathrooms, though some have running
called Sost. Afiyatabad/Sost is a frontierlike hot water.
strip of shoddy hotels and dank teashops, Asia Star Hotel (%51115; s/d/tr Rs 200/300/400)
frequented by Chinese traders, frenetic bus Asia Star’s rooms are probably the pick of
drivers, moneychangers, jeep-wallahs and the cheapies in terms of cleanliness and com-
their passengers. fort. There’s running hot water, friendly man-
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • C h a p u r s a n Va l l e y 315
agement and a good inexpensive restaurant tin booth) arranges minibuses to Gilgit (Rs 180,
(mains Rs 45 to Rs 180). five hours) via Passu (Rs 40, one hour), Gulmit
Hotel Al-Mahmood (%50166; s/d/tr Rs 200/300/400) (Rs 50, 1½ hours) and Ganish/Aliabad (Rs 90,
Has tolerably grimy rooms with running hot three hours).
water in the bathrooms.
Park Hotel (%51035; s/d Rs 250/350) The Park has TO/FROM KASHGAR
clean carpeted rooms, all of which are inexpli- Travellers must have a visa to cross the border
cably crammed with three single beds, making into China. For more details, see p378.
it hard to get to the bathrooms. Definitely The Khunjerab Pass is officially open to
good value, however. foreigners from 1 May to 15 November, un-
Badakhshan Hotel (%51039; s/d/tr Rs 300/400/500) less snow closes it sooner. Landslides can
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
The scruffy carpeted rooms could do with a cancel these trips even in summer. It’s a
clean, though there were nice smells ema- good idea to carry a day’s water and snacks.
nating from the restaurant (mains Rs 50 to You will need to have US$4 (or the exact
Rs 150). equivalent in rupees) to pay the Khunjerab
Sky Bridge Inn (%51006; s/d Rs 400/500) The Sky National Park fee at Dih. Natco and PTDC do
Bridge is pretty good value though you have the five- to six-hour trip to Tashkurgan, and
to pay an extra Rs 200 for the rooms with a Chinese bus takes you on to Kashgar next
TV and sit-down flush toilet. All rooms are morning. Recent developments have allowed
carpeted and have running hot water in the the returning Chinese and Natco buses from
morning. This is a place where you can organ- the Gilgit–Kashgar run to take passengers on
ise trekking in the Chapursan Valley. their return journeys, but this hadn’t been
Khunjarab Hotel (%51006; dm/s/d Rs 150/600/800) extended to the Sost–Tashkurgan run at the
The Khunjarab has a lovely rural setting amid time of research.
orchards at old Sost. However, when we visited Organise your Tashkurgan ticket the day
all the rooms with hot showers were occupied before departure. Natco (%50209; h7am-7pm)
on a semipermanent basis by government of- runs vehicles to suit the size of the crowd –
ficials, leaving just gloomy rooms with no hot Land Cruiser, minibus or bus. The per person
water and the offer of free camping. fare is Rs 1500 in any vehicle. A ‘special’ hire
PTDC Motel Sost (%51030; s/d Rs 1350/1550) costs Rs 9000. The PTDC can also organ-
Rooms here are large and comfortable, though ise your transport, and may offer a discount
this is one of the very few PTDC motels where to the Natco for a special hire – though you
you may find dirty bed linen, unswept carpet might also find yourself with a ‘guest’ accom-
and a hot water-wallah who sleeps in. The panying your special hire.
restaurant (mains Rs 100 to Rs 150) has filling Departure awaits customs and immigration
if bland set meals. This place closes at the end formalities, which are usually straightforward
of November and opens 1 May. Ask for a 20% and begin with customs rifling through your
discount towards the end of the season. bag at about 8.30am. They are pretty thor-
Hotel Riveria (%51081; s/d Rs 1500/1800) This ough as there has been quite a bit of drug
is easily the best hotel in town, and though trafficking in recent years. After customs you
clearly targeted at tour groups the manage- proceed to Immigration to fill out a form
ment welcomes all-comers. The rooms are and get an exit stamp in your passport. For
spacious, spotless and well presented with information on Chinese customs regulations,
TVs and telephone. The restaurant (mains see p368.
Rs 85 to Rs 110) has Chinese, Pakistani and
Continental cuisine and organises lavish buf- Getting Around
fets when a group is in. There’s no regular transport between
Afiyatabad and old Sost. A Suzuki for hire
Getting There & Away is around about Rs 60. The walk takes about
Most southbound transport leaves early in 15 to 20 minutes, though you may pick up a
the morning, with the first minibuses full and tractor ride along the way.
ready to leave by 6am. Buses leave when full,
and as the day progresses there may be one CHAPURSAN VALLEY
or two hours between departures. Nellum Stretching northwest of Afiyatabad for approx-
Transport (operating out of a tiny unsigned imately 80km towards the Wakhan Corridor
316 G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • M i s g a r Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
of Afghanistan, the remote Chapursan Valley Guesthouse (per person Rs 300) in Sher-e-Sabz,
sees very few visitors though it offers splen- which has a traditional Wakhi dining and/or
did trekking opportunities (see p359) and the sleeping room as well as a bedroom with three
chance to experience the renowned Wakhi single beds. Mains here will cost you from
hospitality and culture. Rs 50 to Rs 100.
Just beyond the northern limit of Afiyatabad In Zood Khun, Pamir Serai (%03465226623;
the winding link road to Chapursan inter- www.pamirtrails.com; bed Rs 150) offers traditional
sects with the KKH. After travelling through accommodation in the house of Alam Jan
crumbling mountains and sliding scree slopes Dario. This means you eat (meals Rs 50) and
that make the trip adventurous at any time sleep with the family in the traditional house
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
but exceedingly dangerous during rain, the on floor mattresses. Pamir Serai also has a
simple but colourful Panja Shah Ziarat, a shrine hut with a basic kitchen and mattresses and
to a Sufi saint, is reached after about 40 min- blankets at Baba Ghundi that can be used
utes. Soon after, the first village of the valley, by guests.
Yazrich is signalled by a rare splash of green
vegetation and low stone-and-mud dwellings Getting There & Away
typical of the valley. Fifteen minutes further Regular cargo jeeps to Zood Khun (Rs 100)
is the large village of Raminj, mostly hidden leave Afiyatabad’s bazaar (usually around
above the road. The next three villages – 2pm), from near the Four Brothers Hotel.
Aminabad, Rahimabad and Nurabad – Because Chapursan is beyond the Pakistani
are clustered where the valley broadens into Immigration checkpoint at Afiyatabad, you
a bowl and are collectively known as Kirmin. will need to sign in and out at the checkpoint
Ten minutes on, massive slopes of grey scree at Afiyatabad. The jeep leaves Zood Khun at
are separated from the green wheat terraces around 5.30am. A special hire will cost around
and irrigation canals of Kil, a village that Rs 1800. A special hire from Zood Khun to
spans the river and is linked by a tenuous Baba Ghundi is about Rs 1500 for the return
suspension bridge. The next villages along trip. Access depends on the river level. Many
the valley road are Reshit and nearby Sher-e- choose to hike to Baba Ghundi from Zood
Sabz, each with a guesthouse, then Ispanj and Khun and spend the night there before return-
Shuthmarg, before the final village of Zood Khun, ing the next day.
at about 3500m.
At Zood Khun, accommodation, trek- MISGAR
king information, yak and jeep transport Misgar is the last village in the greater Hunza
and more can be found at the Pamir Serai valley and the base for an easy and fascinat-
guesthouse run by the redoubtable Alam Jan ing trek to Kilik and Mintaka Passes (see
Dario, horseman, musician and ambassador p360). These ancient Silk Route gateways
of Wakhi Tajik culture. As the operator of to Central Asia and China also staged Great
Pamir Trails (www.pamirtrails.com), Alam Jan Dario Game intrigue during the reign of the British
runs cultural and adventurous treks on foot or Raj. The Mintaka Pass was the usual route to
horseback into the valleys and over the passes Tashkurgan before the opening of the KKH
of his spectacular homeland. over the Khunjerab Pass.
Beyond Zood Khun is the mystical and Because Misgar is beyond the Pakistani
holy Baba Ghundi Ziarat, a shrine to a Sufi Immigration checkpoint at Afiyatabad you
saint said to have miraculous powers, and will need to sign in and out at the checkpoint
a popular pilgrimage site. The shrine is sur- at Afiyatabad. Approximately 7km north of
rounded by meadows that host herds of sheep Sost the Misgar link road intersects with the
in summer and, sporadically from June to KKH. The good road travels for 16km through
September, Kyrgyz traders from Afghanistan a desolate landscape of orange canyon walls
who traditionally cross the Irshad Pass with with black lifeless mountains above and the
horses, yaks and sheep to trade with the clear, green Kilik River below. At Misgar village
Chapursan villagers. there is no hotel accommodation but you can
arrange a room with one of the villagers or
Sleeping & Eating camp in the grounds of the post office. The
There is a village guesthouse at the village tiny Qurban General Store has noodles, milk,
of Reshit and nearby is the Chupurson Village biscuits etc.
lonelyplanet.com T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R 317
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
at Dih. You must have US$4 cash (or exact the Ghez River canyon and 80km to Kashgar
equivalent in rupees) to pay the Khunjerab across the flats at the edge of Xinjiang’s
National Park fee here. Much of the Pakistan Taklamakan Desert. This is a region of sub-
side of the pass is within the 2270-sq-km lime scenery and weather extremes, a 2000-
Khunjerab National Park (KNP; see p68), which year-old passage for trade, plunder and
was established in 1975. The pass is one of religious ideas.
the few known habitats of the big, curly-
horned Marco Polo sheep, of which there are KHUNJERAB PASS
now only a few hundred in the world. It’s also TO KASHGAR 0
0
30 km
20 miles
home to Himalayan ibex, golden marmots, To Torugart To Aksu (400km);
wolves and snow leopards. To Osh
Pass (75km) Ürümqi (1000km)
From Dih to the pass it’s about 50km. (San Xian) Caves
Kashgar
Scattered along the KKH are deserted con- S Shule
A Shufu
crete buildings – hostels for Chinese KKH R Upal
Tassutan
Y
Basin
r
O
Rive
KKH
PA
Ghez
ji Yengisar
‘black, crumbling rock’ (this is how the r
Ri
ve Ghez
Turki words kara koram translate) and the Bulunkul
River
river cuts through deep beds of gravel, the Bulunkul
Bulunkul Dobey
residue of repeated mud and rock slides.
Ken
Basin
Rawalpindi. Something besides the time Tashkurgan River
zone changes at the top, namely the side of Tashkurgan
the road on which you drive (China is right- CHINA
Tas
STAN
hku
rga
KH
Autonomous
border, at the Chinese security post, you fill
r
Davdar Region
Kashgar
318 T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • T h e K h u n j e r a b Pa s s t o Ta s h k u r g a n lonelyplanet.com
waqt?; Chinese: Beijing shijian?). Note that expansion has brought wide avenues, Han
airline schedules and government office businesses and traffic lights but Tajiks still
hours are always given in Beijing time. gather to play pool on outside tables and en-
gage in earnest street-corner discussion in the
afternoon before the ubiquitous kebab stands
See p315 for information on transport from start to smoulder and smoke.
Pakistan to Kashgar. This is the site of the Chinese customs and
immigration post. It’s also the administra-
THE KHUNJERAB PASS TO tive centre of Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous
TASHKURGAN County, stretching from Muztagh Ata to the
From the pass to Pirali you may see herds of border, and is home to most of China’s Tajiks.
yaks or a domesticated cross between yak and Tashkurgan is about 290km from Kashgar.
cow called dzu, and in warmer weather you’ll
see golden marmots as they scuttle for their Orientation & Information
burrows. Pirali, the former Chinese customs Tashkurgan Rd, Tashkurgan’s straight and
post, is four hours from Sost at about 4100m. wide main thoroughfare, has been designated
The level stretch along the Tashkurgan River a ‘Cultural Street for Travelling and Shopping’,
from Pirali to Tashkurgan is grand and pictur- or so the sign says. Buses, northbound and
esque in fine weather, with muscular-looking southbound, stop in the compound of the
peaks along the west side of the valley and Jiaotong Binguan (Traffic Hotel; Tashkurgan Rd).
sporadic horse and camel traffic. Travelling (or shopping) in a northeasterly
The road passes the mouth of an enor- direction along Tashkurgan Rd takes you past
mous opening westwards into the Pamir – hotels, restaurants, gift shops and schools,
the Mintaka Valley, once a major Silk Road and finally the Pamir Hotel and the entrance
branch and historically one of the main to the fort.
routes to Hunza and on to Kashmir. About Customs and immigration are about 1km
75km up the Mintaka Valley, a jeep track south of town on the KKH. Your bus (if you’re
enters Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor. southbound or northbound) will take you
Settlements from Gojal over the Khunjerab from/to the bus station – though you could
Pass to Tashkurgan are Wakhi Tajik. About catch a taxi or even walk in the time it usually
1½ hours from Pirali is Davdar, the largest per- takes for the bus to set off.
manent Tajik settlement along the Highway. You can change cash, preferably US dollars,
Two hours later you’re in Tashkurgan. at Jiaotong Binguan.
The Public Security Bureau (PSB; hBeijing time
TASHKURGAN 10am-2pm & 5-8pm) is south of the bus station.
%0998 / elevation 3200m Reception for the foreign affairs section is
In the Uyghur language, tash kurgan means inside the right-hand entrance. There’s an
‘stone fortress’. The ruins of a huge mud- internet café (per hour Y5) and a PCO with
brick fort still stand on the edge of town, and an IDD telephone office on the road behind
although estimated to be about 600 years the Jiaotong Binguan.
old, local lore says Tashkurgan has been a
citadel for over 2300 years. The Greek phi- Sights
losopher-scientist Ptolemy (AD 90–168) FORT
mentioned Tashkurgan in his Guide to Tashkurgan’s one attraction is the massive,
Geography as a stop on the road to China. crumbling fort (admission Y20) northeast of town,
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • Ta s h k u r g a n 319
A B C D
7
1 Old
Town
To Kashgar
(290km)
Steps
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Vegetable 12
Pool Market
Tables Schoolyard
School
2 10
2
INFORMATION
Rd 16 China Customs & Immigration.....1 A4
9 urgan 19 14
Tashk Hospital.......................................2 C2
Baza
15 Post Office...................................5 B3
Public Security Bureau (PSB).........6 A3
Karak
18
3 4
6
oram
3
(Chin
SLEEPING
q
lapu
Gong de Hotel...........................10 A2
Rd
Jiatong Binguan.........................11 A2
ndsh
Pamir Hotel................................12 C2
ip Rd
EATING
Bakery........................................14 B2
Ben Lei Xin Supermarket.............15 B3
Ben Lei Xin Supermarket.............16 B2
Local Restaurants.......................17 B2
Local Restaurants.......................18 B3
4 DRINKING
Bar.............................................19 A2
1 TRANSPORT
To Pakistan Bus Station.................................20 A2
(140km)
on the only hill in the Tashkurgan River’s usually noisy and dirty and the shared bath-
flood plain. Most of its multilayered walls and room can be diabolical. The doubles with
battlements are still intact and yurts dot the bathrooms are much better, though it is wise
flood plain. Don’t miss sunset. The entrance to inspect a few rooms before settling in.
is up an incongruous flight of steps at the east The VIP rooms have a small lounge but are
end of town. overpriced. The hotel’s Traffic Café (mains
Y8 to Y20) has an English menu and cold
Sleeping & Eating beer, though the meals delivered may not
Gong de Hotel (%3423396; Tashkurgan Rd; d Y60) This always match the menu description. Unless
hotel is amazingly filthy and the rooms will you have honed your Chinese or Tajik lan-
only disappoint, even at this price. guage skills, breakfast is a bit of a lottery and
Jiaotong Binguan (Traffic Hotel; % 3421192; certainly an experience.
Tashkurgan Rd; dm/d Y15/120, d VIP Y300) You’ll prob- Ben Lei Xin Hotel (%3423488; China Friendship Rd;
ably be dropped at this hotel if travelling by d/ste Y120/150) The Ben Lei has probably the
bus. The management speak English and best beds in Tashkurgan and the suite is very
run an informal information service and comfy. However, the restaurant will only
can change money. The four-bed dorms are open when a tour group is booked in.
320 T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • Ta s h k u r g a n t o K a r a K u l Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Stone City Hotel (%3422600; Hangqlapu Rd; d Y140) formalities. If you have booked your ticket
The Stone City is often the choice for tour from Kashgar to Sost (Y270), you will be al-
groups, with OK rooms with bathrooms ready on the manifest and you can hop on
though all suffer from hard beds and many the bus at the Bus Station/Jiaotong Binguan
from cigarette odour. Little English is spoken for the short ride to customs. Some cyclists
but staff are friendly. The restaurant (mains have been charged a ‘loading’ fee when
Y18 to Y45) has a partially English menu. putting their bikes on the roof, but this is
Pamir Hotel (%3421085; Tashkurgan Rd; dm/d/ste highly negotiable.
Y80/200/320) The Pamir is convenient to the fort
but little else. Dorm beds share a common TASHKURGAN TO KARA KUL
About 1½ hours from Tashkurgan, across
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
prepared for the worst kind of weather, no mat- were ready to return or move on. You can
ter what it looks like when you start. catch the bus to Kashgar (Y43) or Tashkurgan
The lake is at 3700m and the nights are (Y25) if they stop to let tourists take photos
below freezing even in the summer. Be aware of the lake. Seats are usually available to Kara
also of summer sandstorms, which can rise Kul on the bus from Kashgar to Pakistan, on
in a minute. Between late October and early a stand-by basis (Y43).
May the place may be deserted. Tour and travel agencies in Kashgar
A large wind turbine interrupts the other- (p323) can organise day trips to the lake
wise wonderfully desolate view and heralds for about Y500, with a guide and lunch.
the presence of the Karakol Lake Resort. Even An overnight stay adds at least Y200 per
if you are not staying at the Karakol Lake person for bed, dinner and vehicle charges.
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Resort – a tourist trap – you can be stung Y50 More-interesting trips, such as an overnight
just for entering the resort grounds (ie the car stay at Subash with local walks, a night or
park). At either of the accommodation options two at Muztagh Ata base camp or five- to
at the lake you will be surrounded by Kyrgyz seven-day treks on the mountain, can also
trying to sell you everything from stones to a be arranged.
bed in their yurt. Horse and camel rides start at
Y30 per half-hour but are highly negotiable. KARA KUL TO KASHGAR
An hour from the lake, at the foot of Mt
Sleeping & Eating Kongur, is the settlement of Bulunkul Dobey,
Karakol Lake Resort (yurts per person Y50, dm/d Y40/100) an outpost of the larger Kyrgyz settlement of
This Chinese development has mock-up yurts Bulunkul. Most settlements from Kara Kul
and a few quads and double rooms. Don’t be to the Ghez River canyon are Kyrgyz; those
fooled by the bathrooms – there’s no plumb- on the Kashgar plain are Uyghur.
ing and you will have to brave the disgust- The corridor northwest to Muji and
ing outside ‘amenities’. Yurts sleep eight and south to the Pakistan border is a Pamir val-
management will fill up one yurt before start- ley flanked by a rampart of snowy peaks,
ing on the next. Campers and cyclists who the Sarykol Pamir. The word pamir refers to
opt to pitch their own tents should move 15 pasturage, the valleys’ main historical use.
minutes off around the lake to avoid hassles The terrain is typical of the Pamirs: high,
with the resort management. The restaurant broad, treeless valleys strung between gla-
(mains Y20 to Y80) here is decent, if not great cier-rounded mountains, with rivers often
value, with an English menu. pooling into shallow lakes.
Yurts (per person Y20) South of the resort are real Just before you enter the canyon of the
yurts where you can stay and be fed in Kyrgyz Ghez River (Uyghur: Ghez Darya), the Ghez
fashion (meals Y10). The yurt is surprisingly seems to lose its way in a vast wet plain
warm, the cleanliness of the blankets and mat- ringed with grey-white sand dunes, a strangely
tresses highly questionable, and the food basic beautiful spot that locals call Kumtagh (Sand
but generous. Mountain). A few hardy individuals brave the
Sawut Fast Food Restaurant (yurts per person Y40) fierce dry winds to sell garnets, crystals and
This cluster of yurts beside the lake, about oddments to travellers. A hot spring is inside
3km beyond the resort (heading towards a plain brick building by the river, near the
Kashgar), is a much better option. The friendly top of the canyon.
Kyrgyz-owned operation has a colourful yurt As you enter the canyon the landscape
restaurant (mains Y25) where you can sip changes abruptly. The 70-odd kilometres
bottomless green tea and enjoy fresh vegetable of road are cut into sheer walls, or woven
and meat dishes. Accommodation is in yurts across huge tilted boulder fields; the can-
with clean bedding and if there is room there yon walls are immense, steep and lifeless,
is no need to share with strangers. The outside forbidding even on a sunny day. Ghez it-
toilets are, of course, rudimentary. self is a lonely military checkpoint with a
few shops and teashops. Photographing
Getting There & Away soldiers or buildings here may result in a
Local Kashgar to Tashkurgan buses will stop confiscated camera.
at Kara Kul, though some travellers have had After Ghez you soon exit the canyon’s
trouble flagging one down again when they wine-red sandstone walls at its northern
322 T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a s h g a r lonelyplanet.com
end and head across 80km of flats towards tre are Renmin Donglu and Renmin Xilu
Kashgar. The main attraction is the lumi- (East and West People’s Rds), and Jiefang
nous rampart of the Pamirs rising from the Beilu and Jiefang Nanlu (North and South
plain to the west. At Upal (Chinese: Wupa’er) Liberation Rds). The perimeter road on the
is a food stop (a pretty silly place for one, northwest is Yunmulakexia Lu.
whichever direction you’re headed). It’s only The heart of Kashgar is Id Kah Mosque
an hour from Kashgar, but the buses always with its surrounding bazaar and the re-
seem to stop here. Three kilometres off the stored Old Town to the east. Uyghurs live
road is the small tomb of Mahmud Kashgari, mainly north of the centre and the Chinese
an 11th-century scholar famous for writing in brick compounds to the south. The
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
the first dictionary of Turkic languages. As budget travellers’ enclave is on the west
you approach Kashgar, the villages, poplars side, with midrange hotels, travel help and
and dusty roadworks multiply. good food. The market is east of town, and
the livestock market is several kilometres
KASHGAR to the south.
%0998 / elevation 1354m
Far-flung Kashgar (Kashi) is modern China’s Information
westernmost city. For two millennia this ex- INTERNET ACCESS
otic desert oasis has been a Silk Road trading Thanks to an addiction to Warcraft games etc
hub; a Central Asian bazaar with an intoxicat- internet cafés abound in Kashgar.
ing cocktail of peoples. Even today it remains Former British Consulate Café (144 Seman Lu; per hr
just a big market town, with impromptu Y10) A small operation inside the Chini Bagh’s rear building
street-corner negotiations, perpetual bazaars foyer. Cheaper rate if you buy a beer or a coffee.
and a renowned weekly market. Some things Internet Café (Seman Lu; per hr Y3) Unsigned café just
haven’t changed for centuries – blacksmiths, northeast of Chini Bagh Hotel with plenty of monitors.
carpenters and cobblers work by hand in the Internet Café (Seman Lu; per hr Y3) Huge gaming café
old quarter, barbers wield cut-throats, and just southeast of Seman Hotel.
from surrounding fields come wheat, maize, Seman Travel (per hr Y5) Another small operation in the
beans and rice loaded on donkey drays. Seman Hotel foyer.
But in many ways the past is decidedly
gone – symbolically confirmed by the huge MEDICAL SERVICES
statue of Mao Zedong. Wherever you turn, Health Clinic (CITS Bldg, Chini Bagh Hotel Compound,
high-rises sprout and department stores Seman Lu) Basic first aid.
multiply. Lime green taxis, noise and fumes Hospital of Traditional Uyghur Medicine (Seman
and city regulations have pushed out most Lu) East of Seman Hotel; travellers say it’s pretty dire.
of the donkey carts and put Kashgar in a People’s Hospital (Renmin Yiyuan; Jiefang Beilu) The
league with most other Chinese cities. Id main Chinese hospital, north of the river.
Kah Mosque still stands tall, as it has since
1442, and the chaos of the Sunday market MONEY
still defies the obvious attempts to contain You may be able to change cash at tourist
and compartmentalise. hotels, but at the time of research they were
Peak tourist season (and peak demand not cashing travellers cheques. Uyghur money-
for rooms and transport) is from late June changers loiter outside Chini Bagh Hotel and
to September, with saturation at weekends in the bazaar. There’s little to be gained from
as tourists arrive for the Sunday market. dealing with them as their rates are so similar
If you’ve come from Pakistan, Chinese to the banks, and plenty to be lost because
brusqueness will come as a shock, though some are accomplished cheats.
you’ll find an echo of Pakistani cheer in Bank of China (Main Branch; Renmin Donglu; hBei-
Uyghur men. It’s also nice to see the fe- jing time 9.30am-1.30pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm
male half of the human race out in the Sat, winter times are slightly different) Changes travellers
open again. cheques and cash in major currencies and gives cash
advances on major credit cards at counter No 1. A foreign-
Orientation exchange ATM is outside facing Renmin Donglu.
Official (Chinese) street names are given Bank of China ATM (Jiefang Beilu)
here. The main streets out from the cen- Bank of China ATM (Renmin Xilu) West of the main branch.
lonelyplanet.com T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a s h g a r 323
KASHGAR 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
A B C D
INFORMATION Old Town Admission Gate...............17 C3 EATING
Bank of China (ATM).........................1 A4 Old Town Walls...............................18 A3 Akeda Supermarket..........................31 B3
Bank of China (Main Branch)..............2 B4 Old Town Walls...............................19 C3 Arman Supermarket.........................32 B3
Bank of China ATM............................3 B3 Tomb of Ali Arslan Khan.................. 20 D4 En Te Zar..........................................33 A3
1
Caravan Café......................................4 B3 Tomb of Yusuf Has Hajib.................21 B4 Eversun............................................34 A4
China International Travel Service Han Can Ting...................................35 B3
(CITS).............................................5 B3 SLEEPING Indy's Café.......................................36 B4
Former British Consulate Café........(see 22) Chini Bagh Hotel..............................22 B3 John's Café....................................(see 22)
Health Clinic.....................................(see 5) Middle & West Asia International Johns' Café....................................(see 28)
Hospital of Traditional Uyghur Hotel............................................23 B4 Old City Restaurant.......................(see 24)
Medicine........................................6 A3 Overseas Chinese Hotel...................24 A3 Ostangboy Old Teahouse &
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Internet Café......................................7 B3 Qian Hai Hotel.................................25 B4 Dumpling.....................................37 B3
Internet Café......................................8 A3 Renmin Hotel...................................26 B4 Outdoor Food Stalls.........................38 A3
Post Office.........................................9 B3 Sahar Hotel......................................27 A3 Produce Market...............................39 A3
PSB Exit & Entry Administration Seman Hotel....................................28 A3 Tian Tian Supermarket.....................(see 4)
Service.........................................10 A3 Taxinan Barony Hotel.......................29 A3
Public Security Bureau (PSB).............11 C3 Tian Nan Hotel................................ 30 C4 SHOPPING
2 Seman Travel.................................(see 28) Musical Instrument Shops.................40 B3
Telephone Office.............................12 B4 To People's Hospital (500m);
Airport (12km);
Three-Immortals Caves (20km); TRANSPORT
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ürümqi (1480km) CAAC Office....................................41 B4
Ak Mazar Tomb............................... 13 C4 43 China Southern Airlines....................42 B3
Ferris Wheel.....................................14 C3 International Bus Station...................43 B2
Id Kah Mosque.................................15 B3 45 Long-Distance Bus Station................44 C4
Mao Statue.......................................16 B3 Minibuses to Artush..........................45 B2
Regional Bus Stand...........................46 A4
7
35 22 To Abakh Hoja
Taw
4 Lu Tomb (1km);
Seman Ha Noi Ruins
5
ugu
29 3 Lu (35km)
42 Noorb Aiz ilaiti Sunday
zi L
ish R 32
3 6 d Market
Lu
24
u
Old 15
ia
18
Jiefang Beilu
Town Bazaar
kex
Seman Lu 10 17
Tu
27
ula
37 Old
Khask
ma
39
nm
Produce 40
Baza
28 Town
n
8 Market
Yu
River
han
ar
Kumdarazza Rd 14 To Livestock
33 38 9 31 16 11 19 Market
Renmin Xilu Renmin Donglu (700m);
25 26 2 Train Station
34 1 23 30 44 (10km)
12
Square
Aiersilanhan Lu
y 46
Pahti Ba
Hw
Awati Lu
36 13
m Rénmín
Kez
ra
Jiefang
Tian Nanlu
ra (People's Park)
ige
(Dõng Hú)
Ka
zaa Lu
du
4 41
w
r
ei
Nanlu
20
To Tashkurgan (290km);
Pakistani Border (430km)
To Yarkand (220km); Lu
yu
Hotan (530km) Ti
21
PERMITS TELEPHONE
PSB Exit & Entry Administration Service (111 Telephone office (Renmin Xilu; hBeijing time
Yunmulakexia Lu; hBeijing time 10am-1pm & 4-8pm 9.30am-8pm) Upstairs is for international calls and down-
Mon-Fri) This branch is located just in front of and to the stairs for domestic calls. IDD calls here are much cheaper
left of the boom gates. Chinese visas can be extended here than from tourist hotels and private agencies.
(one month Y160). Alien Travel Permits (waibin tongxing
zheng) for areas not freely open to foreigners (around Y50 TOURIST INFORMATION & TRAVEL
depending on nationality) are issued here. Some English. AGENCIES
An enterprising English-speaking Uyghur by
POLICE the name of Ablimit Ghopor, but better known
PSB (67 Renmin Donglu) The city police station. as Elvis (%13899136195; [email protected]), runs
an information and guiding service that has
POST received many good reviews from travellers.
Post office (40 Renmin Xilu; hBeijing time 9.30am- Elvis can guide you around the old town and
8pm) Buy stamps downstairs, but hand overseas letters to introduce you to traditional life in Kashgar,
the international desk upstairs. There’s a small charge for visiting private houses, traditional teahouses
each letter you pick up from poste restante. and, of course, the Sunday market. Excursions
324 T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a s h g a r lonelyplanet.com
A TURBULENT PAST
Kashgaria, the historical name for the western end of the Tarim Basin, has always had more in
common with Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan than with China. But over the centuries
imperial China has come again and again to police its borders or the Silk Road.
At the end of WWII, Xinjiang declared independence as the Republic of East Turkestan, aided
by Mao Zedong in exchange for Uyghur resistance to the Nationalists. But after Mao’s founding
of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, the fledgling state collapsed when most of its leaders
died in a mysterious plane crash, en route to Beijing to negotiate with the new regime.
Xinjiang was subsequently declared an ‘autonomous region’, an Orwellian sleight of hand
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
that has failed to deliver much in the way of autonomy. Although China has invested substantial
funds developing Xinjiang’s infrastructure, Uyghurs frequently argue that all the good jobs and
business opportunities are dominated by Han Chinese. Any time spent in Kashgar shows that
integration is not seamless and an underlying tension is ever present.
further afield can also be arranged. Elvis can old quarter, sipping green tea or munching
usually be found at Old City Restaurant, op- on a smoky kebab while being constantly as-
posite Seman Hotel. sailed by carpet merchants, lamp makers and
The following Kashgar cafés are good purveyors of ‘antiques’. See the boxed text,
sources of information and can organ- opposite and go for a stroll.
ise tours to Kara Kul, Taklamakan Desert,
Shipton’s Arch, Yarkand and Hotan plus SUNDAY MARKET
onward travel. Once a week Kashgar’s population swells as
Caravan Café (%2982196; 120 Seman Lu) This people stream into the Sunday market (east of
café/information service was closed at the time of writing the city centre off Aiziliati Lu), one of Asia’s
but may re-open under new management. most mind-boggling bazaars. By sunrise
China International Travel Service (CITS; the roads east of town are a sea of pedestri-
%2983156; www.kscits.com.cn; 144 Seman Lu) Up two ans, horses, donkey carts, bikes, trucks, cars
flights of stairs in a building inside the Chini Bagh Hotel and buses, everyone shouting ‘Boish-boish!’
gate, CITS can arrange tickets, travel permits and hire cars. (‘Coming through!’). Sellers spruik their wares:
John’s Café (%2581186; www.johncafe.net) John Hu rugs, blankets, hats, caps and boots; there are
and his sister Jenny organise bookings, tickets, permits, tools, wedding invitations and wonderful
transport and excursions at competitive rates from these dried fruit. And then there are the medicine
cafés at the Chini Bagh and Seman hotels. The cafés are shops with buckets of live scorpions, jars of
among the best places in town to meet travellers and swap preserved toads, desiccated snakes hanging
information. Bike hire from John’s is Y20 per day. from hooks and tubs of horns from who knows
Former British Consulate Café (%2817312; Chini what animal promising cures for who knows
Bagh Hotel) Secreted behind the lifts in the ‘old’ wing of what ailment.
the Chini Bagh. A one-man operation providing informa- The grounds are a 30- or 40-minute walk
tion, tours and internet. Unfortunately, if the manager is from the Seman Hotel. A pavilion east of the
on tour the place is closed. bridge was conceived as a meeting place for
Central Asian and Russian traders and is now
Dangers & Annoyances a huge carpet showroom.
Travellers have lost money or passports Taxis (Y5) lurk outside tourist hotels on
to pickpockets at the market, in the ticket market day, though traffic may prevent them
scrum at the bus station and even on local from taking you right into the heart of the
buses, so keep yours tucked away. Foreign market. Ask for Yekshenba Bazaar (Sunday
women may encounter harassment, espe- market). John’s Café (left) offers a free one-
cially if they haven’t covered their arms and way minibus shuttle after breakfast (10am)
legs sufficiently. from both its branches.
No visit to Kashgar is complete without
Sights experiencing the flying dust and fur and
The best of Kashgar is experienced by just unfamiliar odours of the animated livestock
wandering the laneways and bazaars of the market. Seemingly crazy men test-ride seem-
lonelyplanet.com T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a s h g a r 325
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Renmin Donglu. Catch bus 16 on Renmin Muhatum Ajam’s grandson, Abakh Hoja, a
Donglu or hop in a taxi for Y10 (Y5 from the Uyghur aristocrat and spiritual leader who
Sunday market). ruled southern Xinjiang for 16 years in the
17th century and is sometimes called the pa-
ID KAH MOSQUE tron saint of Kashgar. Another grave is that
This big yellow-tiled mosque (admission Y10) is one of Abakh Hoja’s granddaughter, known to
of the largest in China, with a peaceful court- the Chinese as Xiang Fei (Fragrant Consort).
yard and gardens for 20,000 worshippers. It Behind the mausoleum is a vast graveyard.
was built in 1442 as a smaller mosque on The mausoleum is a half-hour bike ride,
what was then the outskirts of town. During a two-hour walk or Y15 taxi ride northeast
the Cultural Revolution, China’s decade of of town.
political anarchy from 1966 to 1976, Id Kah
suffered heavy damage, but has since been TOMB OF YUSUF HAS HAJIB
restored. Its central veranda has a carved and The striking, blue-and-white tiled, purple-
finely painted ceiling. domed mausoleum (Tiyu Lu; admission Y15; hBei-
It’s acceptable for non-Muslims to go in. jing time 9am-8.30pm) is a 1993 restoration of
Local women are rarely seen inside, but for- a building enlarged many times over the
eign women are usually ignored if they’re centuries and then smashed up during the
modestly dressed (arms and legs covered and Cultural Revolution. It’s Xinjiang’s most im-
a scarf on your head). Take your shoes off if portant Uyghur monument, though there’s
you enter covered, carpeted prayer areas, and little to see besides the huge, elaborate
be discreet with photography. gravestone inside.
Strangely, there is no trace of the original, consulate’s garden and front gate used to
only very old copies in libraries in Vienna, be. Reception is found in the ‘new’ build-
Cairo and Namangan (Uzbekistan). ing, which is on your right as you enter the
gate (it used to be the International Hotel).
TOMB OF ALI ARSLAN KHAN The budget rooms are in an annexe behind
Another historical site is this tomb and small John’s Café. These are adequate; however,
mosque, fairly modest considering they mark the spacious doubles within the ‘old’ build-
the grave of a Qarakhan ruler, Ali Arslan Khan ing are better value, especially when you
(r 970–98). At the end of Renmin Donglu, (easily) negotiate a discount. Finally, the best
go almost a kilometre south. The tomb is rooms are found in the ‘new’ building along
in a weedy graveyard of disinterred adobe with the restaurants, bar and a coffee shop.
graves squeezed between advancing armies of At the rear of the ‘old’ building is the origi-
Chinese apartments and the road. You may nal consular house, featuring a lack-lustre
be asked for a few mao donation. Uyghur restaurant. The tariff includes a
voucher for the unappealing buffet breakfast
PEOPLE’S PARK served in the Chinese restaurant, but you’ll
South of the Mao statue is People’s Park (Renmin soon be heading down to John’s Café (oppo-
gongyuan; admission Y2), a weedy arboretum with site) for eggs, muesli and coffee. The Chini
avenues of tall poplars, a horrible little zoo, Bagh accepts major credit cards.
and Uyghurs playing billiards, chess and Seman Hotel (%2582129; www.semanhotel.com;
shiang chi (Chinese chess). East of the park, 337 Seman Lu; dm Y20-30, d Y120-380, ste Y800; i) The
200m down a back lane, is a decaying old rambling complex that encompasses all that
tomb, which, according to local people, may remains of the old Russian consulate and
have been for a 19th-century imam. its compound has a variety of dorms (some
with outside bathroom) of two to six beds,
OLD TOWN WALLS some with old Russian bathtubs. Hot water
At the east end of Seman Lu stands a 10m- is unpredictable and room security is dubi-
high section of the old town walls, at least ous. Standard doubles with bathroom are
500 years old. Another row of them is visible overpriced at Y280. There are better doubles
from Yunmulakexia Lu. Construction around, (Y380) with vibrant Uyghur-inspired décor.
on and in them makes access impossible, and The old consulate has seven individual and
there’s clearly no interest in preserving them. rather eccentric doubles and you would need
Another small section can be seen on the way to be a committed Great Game buff to pay
to East Lake. for this atmosphere.
Renmin Hotel (%2823373; cnr Renmin Donglu &
EAST LAKE Jiefang Nanlu; s Y128, d Y168-388) The very central
Heading east out along Renmin Donglu is ‘Peoples Hotel’ has small, dreary doubles
a willow-lined artificial lake, a popular spot with telephone, TV and bathroom for Y168,
for migratory birds and a good spot for a and only marginally better doubles for Y218
picnic or a peaceful walk among the weeds. to Y388. Not the friendliest place in town.
In the summer you can rent little boats. Take Tian Nan Hotel (%2824023; 272 Renmin Donglu; d/
a ride on the enormous ferris wheel (Y5) for ste Y180/220) Although the address is Renmin
a bird’s-eye view of Kashgar – a sobering Donglu (that building was being demolished
image of modern development engulfing the at the time of writing) the operating hotel
traditional city. is opposite the long-distance bus station
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a s h g a r 327
on Tian Nanlu. The Tian Nan is not a bad can devour kebabs with cold beer. There’s an
budget choice, especially if you have just English menu thanks to Elvis (see p323).
alighted from a long overland bus trip. En Te Zar (Kezigeduwei Lu; mains Y5-10; h11am-
Overseas Chinese Hotel (%2588588; Seman Lu; d 9pm) This busy Uyghur fast-food restaurant
Y198) The rooms here are barely acceptable, doesn’t have an English menu and no English
with cigarette-scalded carpets and accom- is spoken, but you can get by pointing at other
panying odours. Though they have TV and customers’ dishes or sticking to the delicious
bathroom, you should negotiate a much bet- barbecued meat and noodles. Monitor the
ter price or move on. bill though!
Eversun (Renmin Xilu; mains Y10-50; h9am-late)
This bright, modern Chinese/Western res-
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
MIDRANGE
Chini Bagh Hotel and Seman Hotel, listed taurant boasts about its coffee, which is
under Budget, also have midrange options. rather expensive. However, its Chinese lunch
Qian Hai Hotel (%2824655; 199 Renmin Xilu; d boxes, soups and excellent pizzas are worth
Y360-380) Modern Qian Hai is set back from the splurge. We enjoyed the pizzas and
the busy street, and the comfortable dou- pasta that feature a Xinjiang twist. Finish
bles are equipped with telephone, TV and off with first-rate iced coffee, green tea or
bathroom. Customers seem to be largely ice cream.
Chinese business travellers, and very little John’s Café (mains Y12-45; h8am-late) Both
English is spoken. branches of John’s Café serve unadorned
Taxinan Barony Hotel (%2586888; www.barony travellers’ fare in comfortable relaxed set-
hotels.com; 242 Seman Lu; d Y580-2680; ai) This tings. There’s a hefty range of Continental
plush hotel is one of the best in Kashgar, and Chinese dishes from omelettes, chips
though the best rooms at the Chini Bagh and and pizza to Sichuan chicken. Coffee, juices
the discounted rooms at the MWIH repre- and smoothies can be followed by beer
sent better value. The Taxinan Barony has and spirits.
very comfortable, spotless doubles with tel- Han Can Ting (Chinese Dining Hall; 144 Seman Lu; mains
ephone, TV minibar and bathroom. Facilities Y16-48; h8am-late) This boisterous Chinese res-
include an upmarket Chinese restaurant, cof- taurant is situated in the Chini Bagh Hotel
fee shop, bar and, perhaps its best asset, large compound. It has indoor seating but out-
barbecue-and-beer garden. doors is the place to be. Enjoy cold beer and
Middle & West Asia International Hotel (MWIH; good Chinese meals brought by the attentive
%2801111; 8 Renmin Donglu; d Y680-880) This cen- staff who can arrange nonmenu items such as
tral high-rise hotel was offering significant kebabs from the nearest Uyghur barbecue.
(>50%) discounts at the time of research but
this may have been because the building was CAFÉS & QUICK EATS
so new. Many rooms looked like they hadn’t The pavements of Yunmulakexia Lu north
even been slept in when we visited and the of Renmin Xilu and the Old Town lanes west
restaurant was yet to serve a meal. The largish of Id Kah Mosque overflow in the evening
beds were still ‘Chinese firm’ but each room with Uyghur barbecues and stalls offering
had a big TV, lavish furnishings and a bathtub good food at minuscule prices. Hygiene is
to luxuriate in. sometimes dubious, but you can’t go wrong
dipping your own spoon into hot laghman, or
Eating & Drinking jiaozi (dumplings in boiling broth).
Opening times for restaurants and cafés use Ostangboy Old Teahouse & Dumpling (Khaskhan
local (Xinjiang) time. Bazaar; h9am-late) The name (meaning river-
side) gives an idea of how old this joint is. This
RESTAURANTS is the place to taste the history of Kashgar.
Old City Restaurant (Seman Lu; mains Y4-8) Head to Sit on the balcony and sip dara darmin chai,
the Old City, next to the Overseas Chinese sticky-sweet tea with saffron and cardamom.
Hotel, for authentic Uyghur cuisine at local As a tourist you will be fleeced at Y10 a pot –
prices. Try Uyghur standards like laghman or but worth every kuai.
fentang (a savoury soup of meat, vegetables, Indy’s Café (Pahti Bazaar Lu; h10am-midnight) Hard
rice noodles and garlic). Vegetarians can ask to find but worth the effort, Indy’s Café is also
for fried vegetables and rice; the rest of us not cheap but it’s worth the expense. Indy
328 T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a s h g a r lonelyplanet.com
does the best espresso in town and you can Regionally, the best carpets are said to be
wash it down with generous helpings of black in Hotan but to recognise what’s good and
walnut cake, hot snacks or follow up with a what’s not seek local advice from an experi-
cleansing ale. enced dealer such as Ablimit Ghopor aka Elvis
Caravan Café (120 Seman Lu) Just outside Chini (%13899136195; [email protected]).
Bagh’s gate, this long-standing travellers’ oasis
with espresso coffee, apple pie and Western Getting There & Away
breakfasts was closed and undergoing man- AIR
agement/ownership changes. Hopefully it has At least five flights a day go to/from Ürümqi
reopened by the time you are reading this. for Y1230. Try to book at least a week ahead
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
clothes, as nights can be cold in any season. Chinese section in a minibus plus US$60 for
Unplanned stops and flat tyres are not un- the Kyrgyzstan connection to Osh.
heard of. Landslides in the Ghez Valley can
cancel departures at any time of year but espe- Tibet
cially in July and August. Customs inspections The road trip to Lhasa via Ali requires per-
take place in Tashkurgan. mits, a hefty wallet and unusual stamina for
Die-hards can hop onto the air-con the long, lonely roads – but it can be done. All
Natco bus for a nonstop 14-plus-hour trip the necessary paperwork (including a permit
to Gilgit (Y350), departing at 7.30am local from the army) and transport can be organ-
time Monday to Saturday; at the time of re- ised by CITS or John’s Café (see p323).
search, passengers could take this bus only
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
as far as Sost or Passu. This rule is expected HITCHING
to change. You might hitch a lift between Kashgar and
An alternative is to hire a minibus to Sost – Tashkurgan, but expect waits of anything from
still a two-day trip with sightseeing at Kara Kul hours to days. You won’t save much money as
and Tashkurgan. All the travel agencies listed drivers expect something equivalent to the bus
on p323 can arrange it; eg CITS charges Y3000 fare. From Tashkurgan to Pakistan, you’ll have
for up to nine passengers in a minibus. to wait for an empty seat on a bus.
Seats as far as Tashkurgan on the Kashgar to
Sost bus are sold on a stand-by basis for Y63, TRAIN
but you run a small risk of finding no seat on The train station is several kilometres east of
a later bus to Sost. town though you can buy tickets at counters
4 and 5 at the long-distance bus station (Tian Nanlu;
Ürümqi h9.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm). A taxi costs about
You can make the 1480km, 24-hour trip to Y10, or catch local bus 28 from the Mao statue
Ürümqi in a nonstop ‘sleeper’ bus (Uyghur: on Renmin Donglu.
qarvatlik mashina; Chinese: wopoche) for There is a hard sleeper train to Ürümqi
Y210/196 in an upper/lower berth. (Y180, 28 hours) but the air-con sleeper is
These buses depart every hour from the faster (Y350, 22 hours). Departures are daily;
international bus station (Jeifang Beilu). Buy tickets the fast train leaves at 4.50pm (Beijing time)
one to two hours before departure, though it is and the slow train leaves at 9.30am.
also possible to barter directly with the drivers
for cheaper fares. Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Kyrgyzstan A bus (costing Y5) leaves from the Civil Aviation
You must already have a Kygyzstan visa. Administration of China Office (CAAC; %2822113; 95
There are two road passes into Kyrgyzstan: Jeifang Nanlu) 2½ hours before each flight de-
the Irkeshtam, which leads to Osh, and the parture, and one meets each incoming flight.
Torugart, which leads to Bishkek. Getting to A taxi is about Y15. ‘Airport’ is aydrum in
Osh is straightforward, with a bus (US$50, Uyghur, feijichang in Chinese.
two days) leaving the international bus station
on Mondays at 10am. BICYCLE RENTAL
There is also a bus to Bishkek (US$50) John’s Café (%/fax 2581186; Seman Lu) rents bikes
but because the Torugart Pass is designated for Y20 per day.
‘secondary’ it’s not possible for independent
foreigners to travel on the bus all the way to BUS
Bishkek. To get to Bishkek it’s best to use Useful routes include bus 2 (Jeifang Lu to the
one of the Kashgar travel agencies (see p323) airport), 9 (international bus station to the
which can organise the necessary permits and Chini Bagh Hotel and Seman Hotel) and 28
transport. CITS charges US$150, which in- (Renmin Donglu to the train station). The
cludes a ‘guide’, permit and transport for up to fare is Y1.
three passengers to Naryn. Onward transport
to Bishkek costs roughly US$160. TAXI
Via the Irkeshtam Pass no permit is needed. The usually friendly drivers of the lime green
CITS charges US$200 to cover the 260km taxis disregard their meters and charge Y5
© Lonely Planet Publications
330 T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • A r o u n d K a s h g a r Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
around the town and the Sunday market, Y10 national bus station. The official foreigners’
to the livestock market and train station, and hotel in Artush is Kejou Binguan.
Y15 to the airport.
Yarkand & Hotan
These and other towns southeast of Kashgar
AROUND KASHGAR were stops on a Silk Road branch along the
Three-Immortals Caves south side of the Taklamakan Desert, and
Twenty kilometres north of Kashgar is one from time to time were also mini kingdoms.
of the area’s few traces of the flowering of Yarkand, four hours from Kashgar, has a small
Buddhism, the Three-Immortals (San Xian) indoor Sunday bazaar.
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Caves. These are three grottoes high on a sand- The craftspeople of Hotan were celebrated
stone cliff, in one of which you can make out throughout Asia for their rugs, silk and carved
some peeling frescoes. The cliff is too sheer to jade, and to some extent they still are. The
climb, so it’s a bit of a disappointment. 4th-century Chinese pilgrim Fa Hsien de-
scribed Hotan as a highly developed centre
Ha Noi & Mor Pagoda of Buddhism, with no fewer than 14 large
At the end of a jarring 35km drive northeast of monasteries. Hotan, 12 hours from Kashgar
town are the ruins of Ha Noi, a Tang-dynasty by bus, has a Sunday market to rival Kashgar’s;
town built in the 7th century and abandoned smaller but without the tourists.
in the 12th. Little remains except for a great,
solid, pyramid-like structure and the huge SLEEPING
Mor ‘Pagoda’ (stupa). Hotels are pretty spartan. In Yarkand foreign-
ers end up at the Shache Binguan (Hotel Yarkand;
Artush %8512365; s/d Y120/280).
Artush, or Artux (Chinese: Atushi), an hour’s Hetian Yingbinguan (Hotel Hotan; %2022824; dm/d
drive northeast of Kashgar, is a Kyrgyz mar- Y20/190) The official tourist hotel in Hotan pro-
ket town and the centre of Kyzylsu Kyrgyz vides hot showers and reliable accommoda-
Autonomous County. It has a large bazaar, tion for foreigners.
heavy on cloth and clothing. It’s famous lo-
cally for figs, best in late summer or early GETTING THERE & AWAY
autumn. Also here is the 10th-century tomb of From Kashgar’s long-distance bus station (Tian
Sultan Sutuq Bughra Khan of the Qarakhan Nanlu; h9.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm), buses go fre-
dynasty, the first local ruler to convert quently to Yarkand (Y37, three hours). Buses
to Islam. to Hotan (sleepers/nonsleepers Y85/65, eight
Minibuses to Artush (Y26) congregate in a to 10 hours) are less frequent. When buying
field southeast of the Jeifang Beili bridge over tickets, use the Chinese names: Shache for
the Tuman River in Kashgar, near the inter- Yarkand, and Hetian for Hotan.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
331
Trekking in Northern
Pakistan
Northern Pakistan is heaven for mountain-lovers. Around every bend in the road or from any
hotel window you see colossal mountain after mountain. But step off the road, head out of
town and into the mountains, and you discover a new world of adventure. Walk along the
rivers, through the valleys, over the passes. Admire the glaciers up close. Travel on foot with
the gracious and hospitable people who live here. Experiencing these mountains first-hand
is incomparable and unforgettable.
Northern Pakistan is an uncrowded gem where you can walk for days on even the most
popular routes without seeing another trekker. Treks typically start at the highest elevation
villages, almost all of which are accessible by road. They then follow trails to summer graz-
ing pastures. Some of the more popular trekking routes are also the approach routes for
mountaineering expeditions.
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
Occasionally, a route may scramble over talus (large boulders) or loose scree. Paths can
be faint and hard to follow, with no signposts or trail markers along trekking routes. Gen-
PAKISTAN
eral route-finding and map-reading skills are highly desirable. For most trekkers, hiring a
guide or porter to see you across challenging sections and show the way eliminates the
guesswork. Although trekking through rugged terrain requires a high level of physical fit-
ness, anyone who is in good health and reasonably fit with a little experience in mountain
travel can go trekking here.
Equally important is cultivating self-reliance, sound judgment and good planning. Trekkers
need to know the limits of their own abilities and how to integrate knowledge and experi-
ence to make sound decisions. Most of all, trekking in northern Pakistan calls for an open
spirit of adventure and a sense of humour.
HIGHLIGHTS
Marvel at the glaciers, icefalls and summits of the Nanga Parbat massif from idyllic Fairy
Meadow (p348)
Trek to Rakaposhi Base Camp (p351) for
close-up views of two 7000m peaks
Batura
Savour a hard-to-get glimpse of K2’s sum- Ultar Glacier
Karakoram standards and take no longer peak takes weeks in other Himalayan regions,
than three hours. Hiring a guide or porter yet you can visit the base camps of Nanga
is recommended the first time you step on Parbat (8125m) and Rakaposhi (7788m)
PAKISTAN
a glacier. Slippery surfaces, jagged seracs in as little as two to five days on the Fairy
(pinnacles of glacial ice), groaning ice and Meadow and Rakaposhi Base Camp treks,
yawning crevasses can seem like formidable and of Kampir Dior (7168m) and Pamiri Sar
obstacles, yet glaciers are an integral part of (7016m) in three days on the Pamir trek.
trekking in the Karakoram and Hindukush.
With many glaciers descending to within Treks with Glacier Travel
inches of roads and valley floors, you have Crossing a glacier can be invigorating or in-
a unique opportunity to get out there and timidating depending on your perspective.
try glacier travel. The glacier travel on treks in this chapter is
Crossing a mountain pass is always ex- all nontechnical and does not require moun-
hilarating and gives a special sense of ac- taineering equipment or prior experience;
complishment. Some of the most unique, the Pakora Pass trek involves easy glacier
spectacular vistas are at the top of passes. travel, and the Thui An, Diran Base Camp,
This chapter features six treks that go to Rush Phari and Batura Glacier treks have
or cross a pass: Gokhshal An & Doni An, as short yet comparatively more laborious
Donson Pass & Kundyak An, Thui An, glacier travel.
Pakora Pass, Shimshal Pamir, and Kilik &
Mintaka Passes. More Challenging Treks
All of the treks start and finish at the Cross a pass or traverse an impressive glacier
same trailheads, except for four of the six in as few as three or five days on the Thui An,
treks mentioned previously that cross a Diran Base Camp, Pakora Pass, and Batura
pass. These treks – Gokhshal An & Doni Glacier treks.
An, Donson Pass & Kundyak An, Thui An,
and Pakora Pass – start in one valley and Multiple Treks
finish in an adjacent valley, so you need to Getting off the road and on the trail for short
consider the transport logistics when plan- treks can make any trip along the KKH truly
ning. This chapter includes only open-zone memorable. For a series of easy treks, try the
treks, which means no government per- Fairy Meadow, Ultar, and Kilik & Mintaka
mits, fees or other formalities are required. Passes treks. A more challenging sequence
Just go! could be Rakaposhi Base Camp and Batura
0 100 km
TREKKING IN NORTHERN PAKISTAN 0 60 miles
TAJIKISTAN See Kilik & The external boundaries of Pakistan & India
Kilik Mintaka Passes Pirali on this map have not been authenticated
AFGHANISTAN Pass Map (p361) and may not be correct.
Mintaka
See Pamiri Map (p360) Pass
Boroghil KKH
lonelyplanet.com
j
(6550m) Ghizar Riv Gupis r Naltar
Chitral Gol Phander Central K
stu
Gakuch Upper Hoper Hunza
National Park Sor Laspur Shandur Rakaposhi 4 River Karakoram A R
Ma
Pass Shergila Nomal (7788m) National A
See Gokhshal An & Diran K
Doni An Map (p343) Park
5 K2
O
Chitral (7270m)
R
Hispar La (8611m)
1: See Avdegar Map (p355)
A
Askole Masherbrum
See Donson Pass & Drosh 5: See Diran Base Camp Map (p347) Bunji (7821m) Gasherbrum I
NORTHERN
NG
(5726m) River
Indus
i
er
Kalam Shatial In See Humbrok
Ch
Sazin KK Kachura Hushe
Riv tral
Lowari Pass H Chilas
du
s Shigar Map (p362)
Lake
Fairy
Dasu Point Astor
Nanga Parbat Skardu
Dir Komila
Madyan (8125m) Satpara Gol
Nameh Pattan Babusar Pass Lake
See Fairy Ri Khaplu
Pass Meadow ve Doghani
r
Map (p348)
Khwazakhela Shangla Naran Deosai
Pass Plains
Thakot
HI
AZAD JAMMU
A
Balakot
A
Y
Malakand
A
Malakand N Line of
Pass Con
NORTH-WEST R trol
FRONTIER PROVINCE Mansehra Muzaffarabad A
H
NG
KK
E
Mardan
T R E K K I N G I N N O R T H E R N PA K I S TA N 333
PAKISTAN
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
334 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • W h e n t o T re k lonelyplanet.com
Glacier, or an overnight trek to Avdegar and ing and cooking equipment, food and fuel for
the Shimshal Pamir. their entire trip. Basically you can follow one of
For those intrepid trekkers travelling two approaches to organising your trek – do it
throughout northern Pakistan, try the yourself, or hire someone to do it for you.
Humbrok trek, drive across the Deosai Plains Organising things yourself offers the great-
to reach the Fairy Meadow trek, and then head est flexibility and is the least expensive style.
north on the KKH for the Rakaposhi Base However, it requires time and initiative to
Camp trek. Or, if you’re travelling between shop, pack and organise transport to the
Gilgit and Chitral, try the Thui An trek fol- trailhead, and basic language skills to com-
lowed by the Gokhshal An & Doni An trek. municate with everyone from shopkeepers
and drivers to porters.
GETTING STARTED Most trekkers hire someone to help them.
This can mean anything from hiring one or
Your choice of a trek depends upon the sea- two porters to carry loads and show the way,
son, the length of time you want to trek and to hiring a trekking company to take care
the level of difficulty. As you plan your trek, of everything. The two key criteria in decid-
keep in mind that the process is more than just ing whether or not to hire someone are your
devising lists of places to visit and things to physical ability to deal with the terrain and
take. Take time to also think about what kind your ability to communicate. Anyone lacking
of trekking experience you want. basic route-finding and wilderness-survival
skills or the language skills necessary to ask
WHEN TO TREK permission to travel in a valley and explain
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
The trekking season starts in late April and themselves should hire someone.
finishes by late October. Until mid-June, Whatever arrangements you organise, no-
much snow remains on passes and north-fac- one should trek alone. It’s always a good idea
PAKISTAN
ing slopes, keeping passes higher than 3000m to trek with a partner, and if you haven’t done
closed. This is a pleasant time to trek in lower- this kind of trekking before, go with someone
elevation valleys where fields turn bright green who has. You can travel with friends or look
with new wheat, and fruit blossoms decorate to find other like-minded trekkers to share the
the trees. Mid-June to mid-September is the work and provide support. Although there is
peak trekking season, and the optimal time no organised system to hook up independ-
to traverse glaciers and cross passes higher ent trekkers, you can meet potential trekking
than 4000m. During late spring and sum- companions at hotels or by asking around
mer, the snow line recedes at about 10m per town. Be sure prospective trekkers have the
day, reaching 5500m by late summer. Alpine same objectives and style as you.
meadows above 4000m are in full bloom and Each trek has a relative grading based on
shepherds tend their livestock during the long its level of difficulty in relation to all treks in
summer days. Below 2500m, valleys become northern Pakistan. Two gradings are used in
intensely hot and dry, and narrow canyon this chapter: easy and moderate.
walls reflect the extreme midday heat. The Easy treks are suitable for most trekkers and
rivers are brown and swollen from the glacial follow trails below 3500m for typically two
melt. By mid-August, the crevasses on glaciers or three days. Easy treks have modest daily
are exposed and any remaining snow is soft. elevation changes and may cross gentle passes
Mid-September to late October brings cooler or involve one or two hours of nontechnical
yet pleasant daytime temperatures and crisp glacier travel.
nights that suit lower-elevation treks. Snowfall Moderate treks are suitable for reasonably
also starts to accumulate, closing passes higher fit trekkers and follow more rugged trails for
than 4000m. The glacial melt ceases and rivers less than one week. Moderate treks typically
recede, returning to blue. cross a pass below 4500m with significant el-
evation changes on one day of the trek, and/or
WHAT KIND OF TREK involve less than three hours of nontechnical
Careful planning and preparation are the glacier travel.
keys to the success of any trek. On most treks, Anyone trekking for the first time here will
trekkers need to take shelter, bedding, camp- probably find all of these treks to be quite
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • W h a t K i n d o f T re k 335
strenuous and challenging. If you are at all helpers, porters, food and equipment) to
unsure about your abilities, start with an match most styles and budgets. They can also
easy trek and hire someone to accompany book hotels and organise transport.
you. Working with a trekking company increases
the likelihood of your trekking with a reliable
Backpacking trek crew. Shop around and get quotes from
You may be inclined to heft everything your- three or four companies. This process is easier
self, but backpacking is the most physically when you know where you want to trek and
and mentally taxing way to trek. Backpacking what services you want them to provide, so
suits the patient and outgoing individual with be specific before you start spending money.
a high degree of self-reliance, and enough A list of some popular, well-known trekking
strength and endurance to carry a full load companies follows.
and still do all the camp chores. You also need Fairy Meadow Tours (Map p273; %05811-54310;
good trail sense and good maps. Of course, if www.fairymtours.com; Jamal Hotel, Airport Rd, Gilgit)
you can do all this, backpacking can be the Rehmat Nabi’s family takes pride in operating treks in the
most rewarding way of going. It offers you Raikot Valley, their backyard and home to the Raikot Sarai
the greatest freedom to have a flexible itiner- (p349).
ary and go at your own pace, and the most Golden Peak Tours (Map p273; %05811-55726;
potential for discovery and interaction with www.goldenpeaktours.com.pk; Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam,
people and their culture. Khomer Chowk; PO Box 531, Gilgit) Shafi Ahmad, who
is from Nagyr village, brings a personal touch and warm
Trekking with Porters smile to every trek.
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
You can reduce the sheer physical effort of Hindukush Trails (www.hindukushtrails.com) Chitral
trekking, extend your range and still run your (Map p223; %0943-412581; Mountain Inn, Chitral);
own show by hiring a porter to carry the bulk Islamabad (%051-2275031; House 37, Street 28, F-6/1;
PAKISTAN
of your food and equipment. Some porters PO Box 2059, Islamabad) Chitral’s only trekking company is
may also cook and do camp chores. For com- run by a member of Chitral’s royal family, bringing Chitrali
fort’s sake, it makes sense to allow one porter hospitality to every aspect of a trek.
per trekker. You need to manage porters’ loads Hunza Guides Pakistan (www.hunzaguidespakistan
and wages and be able to adequately discuss .com) Altit (%05821-57076; HGP Guest House, Fort Rd,
all this with whomever you hire. If you want Altit); Islamabad (%051-2106891; House 128A,
to hire a separate cook, be sure he knows how Street 42, F-10/4; PO Box 468, G-9 Markaz, Islamabad);
to cook your food and operate your stove. Karimabad (Map p299; Zero Point, Karimabad) Amirullah
Any porter can help you buy supplies and Khan offers great service and excellent value for your
organise transport. money.
Trekking with savvy porters can offer the Madina Guides (Map p273; %05811-53536; www
best of both worlds; you carry less and enjoy .madinaguides.com; Madina Hotel & Guest House, NLI
the trail more, have more time to do as you Chowk, Gilgit) Hidayat Hussain and Yaqoob offer popular
like, and still keep expenses low enough not treks easily accessible from Gilgit for budget-conscious
to break the bank. Moreover, trekking with trekkers.
a knowledgeable porter can open a world of Nazir Sabir Expeditions (www.nazirsabir.com) Aliabad
experience not possible on your own. A porter (%05821-55120); Islamabad (%051-2252553; House
can invite you into his home and introduce 434, Street 2, G-9/3; PO Box 1442, Islamabad 44000);
you to fellow villagers in pastoral settlements. Skardu (Map p287; %05831-50429; near K2 Motel,
He can help you across difficult sections, he Skardu) Renowned mountaineer Nazir Sabir offers the
will know about every rock and tree, and all highest level of trek services in northern Pakistan.
the stories and lore about the places you visit. Pamir Trails (%0346-5226623; www.pamirtrails.com;
For many trekkers, their warmest memories Zood Khun village, Chapursan Valley; PO Box 363, Gilgit)
are of the energetic and helpful porter who Alam Jan Dario is an enthusiastic mountaineer and musi-
made their trip possible. cian who welcomes trekkers to Chapursan.
Travel Plus (Map p273; %05811-52622; www
Organised Treks .travelplus.com.pk; Kashmir Plaza, Airport Rd; PO Box 590,
Trekking companies provide a range of trek Gilgit) This company specialises in treks from Saeed Jan’s
services (ie a guide, cook, kitchen and camp village of Misgar.
336 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • W h a t t o Ta k e lonelyplanet.com
altimeter, compass
Footwear binoculars
waterproof leather boots
PAKISTAN
The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research’s Exchange all the money you need before
two-sheet 1:250,000 Karakoram series (US$30 departing for the trailhead, since you pay
per set) of orographical sketch maps gives the for expenses on trek in cash. Carry plenty
most accurate rendering of the major mountain of Rs 50 and Rs 100 notes, because guides
ranges and valleys it covers: Sheet 1 – Nagyr, and porters seldom have change.
Hunza, Gojal (except Misgar), Baltistan north of Keep your money in the backpack you
Indus River; and Sheet 2 – Eastern Baltistan. carry on trek and always ensure it’s in your
Leomann Map’s 1:200,000 orographic line of sight. Put all your money in a water-
Karakoram Maps include Sheet 1: Gilgit, proof bag and store it in an interior zippered
Hunza, Rakaposhi, Batura area; Sheet 2: pocket. Don’t let a guide or porter carry the
Skardu, Hispar, Biafo area; and Sheet 3: K2, backpack or duffel bag with your money.
Baltoro, Gasherbrum, Masherbrum, Saltoro
Groups. These maps (US$16 per map), pub- PERMITS
lished by West Col Productions, give impre- The Ministry of Tourism regulates trekking,
cise details with vague trek descriptions on the defined as any walking below 6500m, and
back, yet can be found in Pakistan. designates three zones: open, restricted and
Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV) publishes closed. All the treks in this chapter are in
two 1:50,000 topographic maps (US$18 per open zones, where no guide, permits or fees
map): Minapin (Rakaposhi Range) shows are required.
Rakaposhi’s north slopes; and Nanga Parbat – Regardless of what zone you trek in, the
Gruppe shows the Nanga Parbat massif. These Trekking Rules and Regulations brochure is a
three-colour maps have 50m contour intervals useful reference. You can write in advance of
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
and are the best and only readily available your trek to (or pick it up from) the Ministry
maps of these peaks. DAV also publishes the of Tourism (Map pp74-5; %051-9204550; www.pakistan
1:100,000 Hunza-Karakorum map (US$13) of .gov.pk; 10th fl, Green Trust Tower or PEMRA Bldg, Jinnah
PAKISTAN
the Hunza Valley. Ave, Blue Area, Islamabad; h8am-3pm Mon-Thu & Sat,
The US Army Map Service (AMS) topo- 8am-noon Fri). Look inside for a sign saying
graphic series for this area – the 1:250,000 ‘Operation Section’.
U502 India and Pakistan (US$15 per colour
reprint); and the 1:253,440 Afghanistan – NW
Frontier Province, found only at university
libraries – were last revised and printed in
ON THE TREK
1962. These maps are highly accurate for DAILY ROUTINE
much topographic detail and are still useful When backpacking, you can get up, trek and
in areas not covered by the Swiss maps, such eat whenever you like. But when trekking with
as Chitral, Ghizar and Diamir. Useful sheets porters, you need to consider their routine.
include: NI 43-2 Gilgit (Diamir); NJ 43-13 Porters arise at first light (about 4am), make
Mastuj (Chitral, Ghizar); and I 42-F Chitral tea and eat bread. Then they’re ready to go. If
(Kalasha valleys). These maps have been su- you’d rather not follow this routine, let them
perseded by the Joint Operations Graphic know. Porters usually stop mid-morning for
(JOG) 1:250,000 series (US$44 per map). more tea and bread, when you can eat lunch.
With organised treks, the cook usually serves
COSTS & MONEY lunch whenever you choose. Stops, however,
Per person daily trekking costs vary sig- are often dictated by where water is available,
nificantly with the style of trekking. rather than by the clock or by your stomach.
Backpacking ranges from US$15 to US$20 Carry some water and food with you on the
when you carry your own backpack or hire trail to help you between meals. Most trekking
one porter, buy food locally, provide your parties stop for the day by mid-afternoon, and
own equipment and use public transport. eat dinner whenever food is ready, ideally be-
When you organise a special vehicle and hire fore it gets dark. A typical trekking day lasts
a guide, cook and/or porters on your own, six to eight hours.
costs range from US$30 to US$50. Trekking
companies charge from US$45 to US$120 GUIDES & PORTERS
per day, depending upon the services you Most trekkers hire at least one person to
request. Tipping is optional. help them navigate through these rugged
338 O N T H E T R E K • • G u i d e s & P o r t e r s lonelyplanet.com
mountains. Guides and porters are always (letter of recommendation) from any foreign-
men; women don’t do this type of work for ers for whom they have previously worked.
social and cultural reasons. When hiring a freelance guide, try to find
one who is associated with (and somewhat ac-
Guides countable to) a trekking company and hence
Competent guides are good-natured; know has more of an incentive to do a good job.
the route, where to locate water and where Some villages have a porters’ union that
to camp; have basic mountaineering skills; assigns porters on a rotational basis. Be thor-
and speak some English. Guides also hire and ough when hiring: make your requirements
supervise porters, buy supplies and organ- clear, set any limitations, and agree on loads,
ise transport. Guides carry only their own wages, food, clothing and equipment.
personal gear, expect you to equip them
fully, and generally don’t help with cooking. Stages
Guides are less useful for parties of four or The distance covered on most treks is divided
fewer trekkers, unless you hire enough porters into parao (stages), loosely defined as a tra-
to justify having someone to manage them. ditional day’s walk for the people who live in
Guides should make your trek easier – that is an area, although it’s rarely clear to outsid-
why you pay them. ers what a stage really is. Stage lengths vary
The Ministry of Tourism licenses moun- widely, often depend upon the difficulty of
tain guides, but a licence doesn’t mean the the terrain, and may be as short as a one-hour
guide has any specific skills. Ask any pro- walk or as long as a full day.
spective guide what training and experience The number of stages on many treks isn’t
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
he has, and if he has done the route before. fixed, can vary according to whom you ask
Most guides are employed by trekking com- and can change from year to year. The govern-
panies, some run their own companies and ment has no authoritative list of stages and the
PAKISTAN
Wapasi equals half of the wage for one stage You may be expected to dispense medicine for
and is paid in addition to the porter’s wage headaches and bandage minor wounds.
per stage. It’s intended to cover expenses to
walk with their personal belongings back to SLEEPING & EATING
the point where they were hired. When a trek You won’t find developed camping grounds
starts and finishes at the same place, you don’t on most treks. You’re snoozing on the
pay wapasi. When you and your porters travel ground in your tent unless you prefer sleep-
together in a vehicle to and from trailheads, ing under the stars. A few treks have camping
you pay for the costs of their transport and grounds that rent gear and charge a per-tent
do not pay wapasi. camping fee.
Technically, the government requires Plan your meals in advance and organise
trekkers to provide porters with clothing and food that is easy to prepare, tastes good and
equipment itemised in the Trekking Rules and provides enough calories without being too
Regulations. Alternatively, you can pay each heavy, bulky or expensive. When you hire
porter an allowance of Rs 250, which costs a trekking company, it provides food and
less than buying everything on the list. It’s a cook.
unlikely that porters will buy new gear, but Down-country speciality stores have im-
the money helps to cover the wear and tear ported food that can supplement grain-based
on their clothes and shoes. It’s not necessary meals and local food. Many of these same
to pay on short treks. items can be found by scouring the bazaars
Porters earn one rest day after every seven of Chitral, Gilgit, Karimabad and Skardu.
days (not stages). Porters are paid half of the Once you set off, you can’t expect to purchase
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
wage for one stage for a rest day, whether much, if anything, from villagers. Check any
you take it or not. When you take a rest day, food you buy in Pakistan for spoilage and bugs
you also pay food rations. When day walks or before reaching the trailhead.
PAKISTAN
side trips do not require shifting camp sites, You need to purify water for drinking on
porters earn a rest day. trek. The most desirable water, of course,
If you halt due to bad weather, you are to comes from springs. More often than not,
pay one full-stage wage per day plus food though, you get water from rivers. Bring tea,
rations. Porters, however, often accept a rest instant coffee, milk powder, hot chocolate and
day (or half a stage) wage. flavoured drink mixes for variety.
uncertain of your ability to cope, hire a guide. There are no rubbish-disposal systems along
trekking routes. Separate all rubbish into or-
RESPONSIBLE TREKKING ganic, burnable and nonburnable. Dispose
PAKISTAN
Codes of conduct aren’t readily available and of organic waste (food scraps) by feeding it
little is done to implement eco-trekking prin- to domestic livestock. Above 4000m, organic
ciples. Hence, much depends upon you as waste takes decades to decay, so carry it to
an individual adopting an activist approach. lower elevations for disposal. Collect burn-
The most important single action you can able rubbish and burn it. Remove as much
take to minimise your overall impact is to packaging as possible from foods before the
reduce the size of your trekking party. The trek and store food in reusable containers.
following suggestions make a difference in Pack out nonburnable rubbish (ie tins, bot-
protecting the environment for visitors’ tles, aluminium foil, plastics) for disposal in a
enjoyment and preserving communities’ town. Don’t bury nonburnable rubbish as wild
resources. animals may dig it up and scatter it.
or engage in it. And don’t harass or feed eyes need protection that filters a minimum
wildlife, or eat wild game. of 90% UV-A and UV-B radiation when
trekking on snow or higher than 3500m.
Environmental Organisations Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is a
All these organisations welcome volunteers concern on high-altitude treks. Although
and support: all treks in this chapter stay below 5000m,
Alpine Club of Pakistan (%051-9208963; www acclimatisation is important. Everyone accli-
.alpineclub.org.pk; Room 8, Ground fl, Jinnah Stadium, matises at varying rates, so familiarise your-
Pakistan Sports Complex, Kashmir Highway, near Aabpara, self with the symptoms of AMS (see p400).
Islamabad) Represents Pakistan in the International Moun-
taineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) and works to Helicopter Rescue & Evacuation
preserve and protect Pakistan’s mountain environment. Sometimes things go wrong, and rescue or
World Conservation Union (IUCN-Pakistan; %021- evacuation may become necessary. Rapid
5861540/3; www.iucn.pk/iucn-in-pakistan.htm; 1 Bath search-and-rescue organisations are una-
Island Rd, Clifton, Karachi) Works to conserve the integrity vailable, so be prepared to rescue yourself
and diversity of nature. Its Mountain Areas Conservancy or a fellow trekker. Assess your situation and
Project (MACP) supports community-based conservation in don’t panic. Evacuation can mean shorten-
Pakistan’s mountains. ing a trek because of illness or injury or re-
World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF-Pakistan; sponding immediately to a serious situation.
%042-111993725; www.wwfpak.org; PO Box 5180, For minor illness or injury, a victim may be
Ferozepur Rd, Lahore) Works to save wildlife and their able to walk with assistance. When a victim
habitats through extending support to communities. can’t walk, they may be carried on a por-
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
ter’s back or on a pack animal. Helicopter
HEALTH rescue cannot be guaranteed and is only for
See the Health chapter (p395) for de- life-threatening emergencies.
PAKISTAN
tailed information. Make sure you are in Helicopter rescue, more frequently re-
good health before starting your trek. The quested for mountaineers rather than
most important thing you can do to stay trekkers, usually takes more than 48 hours
healthy and avoid most stomach upsets is to organise and is likely beyond the budget
to purify your drinking water. Wash your of independent trekkers. Askari Aviation (%051-
hands with soap regularly to avoid colds or 5505760/2, 0300-8502701; www.askariaviation.com; House 21,
upper-respiratory tract infections, and bring Chaklala 1, Rawalpindi) operates rescue services. It
medicines to treat any symptoms. Ankle and requires a US$6000 up-front, refundable cash
knee sprains are common trekking injuries, deposit before flying (understanding that you
especially when carrying your own backpack. are liable for costs above US$6000), and a
Wear good boots with ankle support and pre-trek briefing at its office. If you’re carry-
pay attention on the trail. The old maxim ing insurance that covers helicopter rescue, a
of ‘walk when you walk, and look when you trekking company or your embassy may agree
look’ makes the essential point. to put up the cash bond in an emergency.
Daytime temperatures often soar. Drink
plenty of noncaffeinated liquids and treat
heat with respect. Dehydration occurs in
both cold and hot conditions. Always carry
CHITRAL & GHIZAR
water while trekking, drink a minimum of Tucked into Pakistan’s northwest corner,
3L per day and trek early in the morning to Chitral’s alpine country, old-growth forests
avoid midday heat. Don’t wait until you feel and hospitable inhabitants impart a unique
thirsty to drink. and charming character. Above its cultivated
Protect both your skin and eyes from the valleys tower innumerable snowcapped peaks
effects of all-day sun. At high altitude you including Tirich Mir (7706m), the highest
can get sunburnt quickly, even on cloudy peak in the Hindukush Range.
or snowy days. Use a high-quality sunscreen The beautiful, easily accessible, but rarely
and lip moisturiser with a Sun Protection visited Chitral Gol National Park is Chitral’s
Factor (SPF) of 50 or above, and reapply it best-kept secret, home to magnificent markhor
throughout the day. Wear protective cloth- (large wild goats) and snow leopards. In the
ing for your face, ears, neck and arms. Your nearby Kalasha valleys, few tourists go beyond
342 C H I T R A L & G H I Z A R • • G o k h s h a l A n & D o n i A n lonelyplanet.com
the roadside hotels. Trekking from the park Getting To/From the Trek
to the Kalasha valleys or between the valleys For accommodation and transport infor-
themselves offers the opportunity to travel mation, see p228 for Chaghbini, and p231
with the Kalasha, and to get to know, respect (accommodation) and p230 (transport)
and appreciate them and their land. for Balanguru.
Visit Ghizar to discover isolated valleys,
traditional Kho and Burusho villages and glo- The Trek
rious passes through the western Karakoram In an almost 360-degree panorama from
and Hindu Raj Range where countless 6000m Chaghbini (2925m), Tirich Mir rises to the
summits fill the horizon. Less heavily glaciated north, Buni Zom (6550m) to the northeast and
than the central Karakoram or Hindukush, rocky Ghariet to the southeast. On Day 1 (five
Ghizar is a trekker’s paradise. to six hours, 5.8km), a well-constructed trail
heads west following a forest ridge, ascending
GOKHSHAL AN & DONI AN gradually towards the rocky Ishperudeh ridge.
The trail narrows to a track used by cows
and ascends a grassy slope leading towards
TREK FACTS the ridge, two hours from Chaghbini. Scenic
Duration three days Gokhshal An, a small notch south of a larger but
Distance 30km higher saddle, is the lowest point on the ridge,
Standard moderate reached in another hour.
Season July–September A steep 30-minute descent zigzagging on
scree leads to a more gentle trail that crosses
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
Start Chaghbini
Finish Balanguru several streams as it descends to the valley
Public Transport finish only floor. Continue along the Gokhshal stream to
Summary A classic traverse from Chitral Gol the game-watchers’ hut at Gokhshal (2650m),
PAKISTAN
National Park to the Kalasha valleys rewards two to 2½ hours from the pass. Camp near the
with excellent views of Tirich Mir and the hut, which sits in an amphitheatre-like gorge
likelihood of watching wildlife. adjacent to a pine-forested boulder field.
Cross the Gokhshal stream on Day 2
(seven to eight hours, 11km) and head west
The deservedly popular trek from Chitral Gol southwest to ascend the easternmost (first) of
National Park to Rumbur, the northernmost three forested spurs from the ridge separating
of the Kalasha valleys, crosses two scenic Gokhshal and Dundini Gols. The often faint
passes, Gokhshal An (3720m) and Doni An trail contours for one hour to the ridge top
(3713m). The rugged trails offer wildlife- (3049m), south of Gokhshal, visible below.
watching opportunities and superb views of It then contours west and south, descending
the Hindukush Range. Trekking days average to Dundini Gol (2772m) and a footbridge
six to seven hours with almost 1000m of eleva- across the stream, an hour from the ridge.
tion gain and loss per day. From the stream, ascend steeply and con-
tour south southwest along the Doni Gol’s
Planning true left (west) bank to meet the stream one
The US AMS 1:253,440 map I 42-F Chitral hour from the footbridge. Cross the stream
covers the park, but doesn’t show the route over a snow bridge, present even late in the
across Gokhshal An. The British Survey of season, and ascend along the true right (east)
India 1:63,360 maps 38 M/9, 38 M/13, and bank for 30 minutes to Doni Ghari (3550m),
38 M/10 (found at university libraries) show an alternative camp site.
more detail. Follow occasional cairns and ascend steep
Porters ask for a flat rate of Rs 2000 for the switchbacks well above the Doni Gol, passing
trip, which totals four stages. You can organ- 100m beneath a prominent isolated stand of
ise a game-watcher to go with you from the cedars. A gully south of these trees leads up
park’s office (see p228). to a grassy ridge from where distant, but
Trekking in the reverse direction with prominent, Tirich Mir comes into view.
Rumbur porters, who ask for Rs 400 per Numerous livestock tracks lead up the
day, is less expensive but has more uphill flower-covered slopes to converge in one
walking. hour at Doni An, the southern boundary of
lonelyplanet.com C H I T R A L & G H I Z A R • • G o k h s h a l A n & D o n i A n 343
CHITRAL GOL
la
NATIONAL PARK
Na
Gokhshal
Gol
dehru
DAY 2 Gokhshal START To Lutkho
Ishpe
(2650m)
Chaghbini
(2925m)
Chitral Birmogh
Dundini Go Kushunisuk Go Lasht
l Kasavir l
(2195m)
Merin
(1980m)
l
Go
Bironshal
ni
CHITRAL GOL
Do
To
NATIONAL PARK Booster Mastuj
Doni Ghari (107km)
(3350m)
Ch
itra
l G
Doni An/ Chitral
Uta
Chimirsan An
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
ol
Mulen
k
(3713m) Gol
Go
l
PAKISTAN
(3100m)
DAY 3
Uchusht
r
ve
Uchusht Ri
Gol
tral
C him
Rodi Gol
Chi
Baltum i
rsa
(2762m)
n
Jajok
Gol
Urghuch Dok
Go
(3510m)
l
Urghuch Go
l
Rumbur Gol Shekhanandeh
(2250m)
Urghuch
Revalik/
Rawelik
Sundargah
Kalashgrum
lley
bu
To Ayun
r Go
(3km);
Kundyak An To Ayun Drosh
(2855m) (22km)
l
(5km)
the Chitral Gol watershed. The impressive 1½ to two hours below the pass, are along
views extend beyond Tirich Mir to distant both sides of Utak Gol, which flows into the
Buni Zom. Above and to the west of the pass true right (west) side of the main Chimirsan
is the markhors’ summer habitat. Gol. Rumbur and Uchust shepherds, both
The descent from Doni An contours Kalasha and Muslim, tend goats here.
along the east (left) side of the bowl be- On Day 3 (five to 5½ hours, 12.5km), de-
neath the pass, heading towards the plain scend for 30 minutes to a crossing of Utak Gol
below. The huts of Chimirsan Ghari (3100m), then continue down through old-growth cedar
344 C H I T R A L & G H I Z A R • • D o n s o n Pa s s & K u n d y a k A n lonelyplanet.com
To Doni To Urghuch
west bank leads to the Nuristani-style houses An (5km) Dok (1km)
above the Jajok Gol. Descend amid cornfields to
cross Jajok Gol, then stay well above Chimirsan Shekhanandeh
(2070m) Not for Navigation
Gol’s true right bank for an hour before de- use listed maps
Ru
m
bu
scending the ridge separating Chimirsan Gol
r
Go
and Rumbur Gol to Shekhanandeh (2250m).
l
Rawelik
Sundargah
This village is home to Kati-speaking Bashgali
Sajigor Balanguru
people who have converted to Islam. From Traghdhur
(1860m) FINISH
Naharjao/Narajau
here, a wide track suitable for vehicles leads in (2225m)
Grom
Batet
Rum
Kundyak An
(2855m)
bur
Val
Lachorsin
Ru
TREK FACTS
ley
mb
ur
Duration two days
Gol
DAY 2
Distance 14km Gomenah
(1980m)
Standard easy
l
Go
To
Acholgah Gol Shigala Acholgah
Season mid-April–mid-October Ayun
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
Passuwala (5km)
Start Batrik Gogalog
D
on
so
Finish Balanguru n
Go Gorasin
l
Public Transport yes
PAKISTAN
Anish Go y
l
Brun et alle
b or
The trekking route across the Donson Pass Bum oret V
Batrik b
m
(2970m) and Kundyak An (2855m) con- (2040m) Bu
START
nects the Kalasha valleys of Bumboret and Krakal
are several Kalasha settlements, including The Thui An (4528m) is the perfect introduc-
Gomenah (1980m) where you can camp. tion to nontechnical glacier travel. The route
The trail ascends on Day 2 (four to five takes you across a surprisingly straightfor-
hours, 4.5km) through more impressive ce- ward and snow-free pass.
dars. Notches have been cut into the trees to Trekking days average only four hours with
encourage bees to build hives, so Kalasha can 700m of elevation change. The route involves
collect honey. The old-growth forest offers less than half a day traversing the glacier east of
morel mushrooms in spring, and later, wild the pass, which even first-timers can safely nav-
strawberries. The forested Kundyak An gives igate with the assistance of a porter. Splendid
sweeping views south towards the Donson alpine amphitheatres surrounded by dramatic
Pass. From the pass, an indistinct trail leads icefalls and snowy peaks provide superb camp
down to the first settlements, eventually cross- sites on both sides of the pass. The trek can be
ing a footbridge downstream from Naharjao done in either direction, depending on whether
(2225m). The trail crosses the stream several you’re coming from Gilgit or Chitral.
times over footbridges and soon reaches the
road along the Rumbur Gol. Walk on the road Planning
for 3.5km, or one hour, to Balanguru. The US AMS 1:250,000 map NJ 43-13 Mastuj
covers the trek. Yasin porters ask for Rs 400
THUI AN per stage for 5½ stages, whereas Yarkhun por-
ters ask for Rs 400 per day.
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
Duration five days Public transport Gilgit–Nialthi (Rs 160, five
Distance 51km to six hours) departs from Abbas Market on
Standard moderate Punial Rd, and Yasin–Nialthi vehicles (Rs 40,
PAKISTAN
Season mid-June–September two hours) depart from Center Yasin. Vehicles
Start Nialthi go as far as the bridge across the Thui Gol in
Finish Sholkuch Nialthi. A shady riverside camping ground run
Public Transport yes by Subedar Sher Rajab is before the bridge.
Summary An outstanding traverse through Passenger vehicles Sholkuch–Mastuj
the heart of the Hindu Raj Range links Yasin (Rs 120, three hours) depart early morning.
and Chitral and crosses a stunning pass sur-
rounded by tumbling glaciers and jagged The Trek
6000m peaks. The long but gentle trail on Day 1 (five to 5½
hours, 15.5km) takes you up the beautiful
THUI AN 0
0
8 km
4 miles
Barum Bar
Ke r
DAY 4
Go
(3210m) (4052m)
Shunup
la
(4528m)
Go
To Mastuj Lasht
(40km)
NORTHERN AREAS
Das
Thui
Go
Not for Navigation START l
use listed maps Nialthi
(2785m) To Taus
(20km)
346 G I L G I T & D I A M I R • • D i r a n B a s e C a m p lonelyplanet.com
l
Continue upvalley for 15 minutes along
l ac i
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
Unless you are previously acclimatised, most mature forest for 15 minutes to the head of
trekkers are advised to split the distance into the ablation valley and the first views of the
two days. It’s possible to wander one to two Hinarche Glacier’s mangled seracs. The trail
PAKISTAN
hours above base camp for enhanced views ascends steeply, following the moraine ridge
of the icefalls descending from Diran on the high above the glacier’s east margin for 30
basin’s east side. minutes more. Where the moraine ridge
and forest end, the trail starts to deteriorate
Planning until it disappears altogether. It will take you
The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research one hour to get through this difficult sec-
1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 1) covers tion and move away from the moraine onto
the trek. Porters ask for a flat rate of Rs 350 the glacier.
per stage. The trek totals four stages round The route from this unnamed point stays
trip. Hiring someone to show the route on on the glacier for 4km, taking between 2½
the glacier is helpful. and three hours to reach base camp. The in-
distinct route stays in a direct line up the
Getting To/From the Trek middle of the glacier because both margins
For Chirah accommodation and transport are heavily crevassed with mazes of seracs.
information, see p271. The views become more expansive the further
up the glacier you go with the ‘T’ confluence
The Trek of the Bagrot and Hinarche Glaciers coming
From Chirah (2700m), on Day 1 (two hours, into view about halfway. Diran Base Camp
5km) walk east on the dwindling road along is on the north side of the ‘T’ high above
the Bagrot River’s true left bank for 20 min- the glacier. The confluence resembles a big
utes to a junction. Stay to the left follow- mud sinkhole, so stay to the right of the mud
ing the level path near the river to reach when exiting.
a footbridge. When the river level is high, Once off the glacier, a dirt track leads
you follow a higher, alternative path to steeply up a crumbling cliff for 15 minutes
the footbridge. to the shepherds’ settlement of Hinarche Harai
Cross the footbridge to the true right (3500m). The grassy camping area is east of
(north) bank of the Burche Glacier’s outwash the clustered huts adjacent to a spring near a
stream and step onto the Hinarche Glacier’s willow-covered slope.
terminal moraine. Follow an indistinct trail Retrace your steps to Chirah (seven to eight
for 30 minutes across the glacier towards hours, 13km) on Day 3.
348 G I L G I T & D I A M I R • • Fa i r y M e a d o w Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
To Chilas (50km);
Gilgit (80km) Not for Navigation
TREK FACTS Tato use listed maps
ge
Fairy
Rid
Duration three days Bezar Gali Point (2666m)
(4062m)
Distance 21km START/FINISH
Bu l d a r
r
Standard easy ipu
Jal ah
ur
G DAY 2
h
l ip
Season May–November
ot Ga
Rid
Fairy
Ja
Meadow
Start/Finish Fairy Point
ge
(3306m)
Raik
Public Transport no Susuru Bush
(4000m)
Summary Fairy Meadow offers easy access
DAY 3
to an 8000m-peak base camp with one of North
Ra i k o t
Beyal
Jalipur
Peak (5215m) (3500m)
the western Himalaya’s finest mountain ur SIDE TRIP
Buldar Peak
ip (5602m)
panoramas. al eam
Khusto (Jalipur) J Str View Point
Buldar Cleft
Pass (4837m) (3667m)
(5150m)
ac
G
l
ie
r
The lofty summits of the Nanga Parbat massif r Drexel
Nanga Parbat Base Camp
ie
South Monument
l ac
(3967m)
form an impressive glacial amphitheatre at the Jalipur Peak
Gana l o G
Pa (5206m) Great Moraine
tr (4500m)
head of the Raikot Gah. Four major icefalls o G
l ac Middle Chongra
i er Camp 1 (6455m)
converge beneath Nanga Parbat’s north (or (4468m)
South Chongra
Raikot) face to form the 13km-long, ‘S’-shaped Ganalo Peak
(6606m)
(6448m)
Raikot Glacier. The river pouring from the
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
m
r
Nanga Parbat
Gla (8125m)
deepest gorges. o
zen
Alongside the glacier there are pine and Ma ak s Bazhin
Pe Glacier
fir forests, sparkling streams, and grasslands
that have enchanted visitors and prompted
the name of Fairy Meadow. A trip to Fairy lasting about two hours. This affords you
Meadow, with day walks or side trips, has a plenty of time to enjoy day walks, relax
bit of everything that Himalayan trekking can at camp, and also to stroll around nearby
offer: a hair-raising ride to get there, hot and shepherds’ settlements.
dusty trails, lush meadows and forests, amaz-
ing glaciers, and an 8000m summit. Nowhere Planning
else on earth can you drive for less than three The DAV 1:50,000 map Nanga Parbat – Gruppe
hours directly to one of the 10 highest peaks covers the trek. Porters ask for a flat rate of
on the planet. This spectacular, short trek Rs 325 per stage. Porters charge two stages
right to the base camp of an 8000m peak between Raikot Bridge and Fairy Meadow
is the easiest trek to any major Himalayan whether you walk or ride in a vehicle to Fairy
base camp. Point (previously called Jhel). Horses are avail-
Raikot Bridge, which spans the Indus River able to Fairy Meadow for Rs 1000/1200 (one
along the KKH a short distance south of Gilgit way/round trip) per stage. The trek totals six
and east of Chilas, is the jumping-off point for stages round trip.
the trek. A legendary 4WD road leaves the
KKH here and ascends 1320m to the trailhead. Sleeping & Eating
The ride can be so scary that some trekkers Fairy Meadow and Beyal offer accommoda-
prefer to walk rather than sit in a 4WD as it tion and food in welcoming settings. Each
inches its way along a dramatic cliff face with hotel has a fenced compound (to keep live-
heart-stopping drop-offs. stock out) with rustic two-bed wooden huts, a
Once you get to the trailhead, you can dining hall serving hot meals, grassy camping
take a deep breath and enjoy cold drinks grounds where you can hire a tent (with a
and snacks from shops located there be- sleeping bag and pad) or pitch your own for
fore setting off. The gentle, well-established a fee, and toilets. A few shops sell basic food
trail lends itself to short trekking days, each and supplies.
lonelyplanet.com N A G Y R & H U N Z A 349
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
views downvalley of the Indus Valley and the
BEYAL 7000m peaks of the Rakaposhi-Haramosh
As you walk into Beyal, the hotels are spread Range.
PAKISTAN
out from north to south along a stream. An easy trail continues 30 minutes beyond
Messner Lodge Hote (camping fee Rs 100, tent hire s/d Beyal through scattered juniper and birch to
Rs 350/450, hut s/d Rs 500/700) is nearest the shep- an obvious boulder at the lateral moraine’s
herds’ huts with a lumpy camping area. Raees edge, aptly called View Point (3667m). The
Darbar Hotle & Beal Camp (camping fee Rs 50, tent hire breathtaking close-up views to the southeast
Rs 500, hut s/d Rs 800/1000) is the only property with- include the four major icefalls coming from
out fencing and has the cheapest camping fee. the Chongra peaks (ranging from 6448m to
Jilper Inn Bayal Camp (camping fee Rs 120, tent hire s/d 6830m), Raikot (7070m), and Nanga Parbat’s
Rs 400/500, hut s/d Rs 900/1200) is the largest and north face that converge to form the incred-
most well-established area in Beyal with a few ibly serac-covered Raikot Glacier. If you only
trees for shade and the flattest camping area. go this far, you won’t be disappointed. Fit
Parbat Saria is occasionally open. day-walkers can continue on to Nanga Parbat
Base Camp (3967m) between the Ganalo and
Getting To/From the Trek Raikot Glaciers, a four- to five-hour side trip
Take any Gilgit–Chilas vehicle (see p267) from Beyal.
or any Gilgit–Rawalpindi bus (see p279) Retrace your steps to Fairy Point on Day
and get off at Raikot Bridge (1280m), by 3 (two to 2½ hours, 10.5km). It’s an 834m
KKH mile marker 471, 78km or 1½ hours descent, so go easy on your knees!
south of Gilgit and 55km or one hour east
of Chilas. Special hires Gilgit–Raikot Bridge
cost Rs 2000.
From Raikot Bridge, walk or organ-
NAGYR & HUNZA
ise a fixed-rate special hire to Fairy Point Above the carefully tended fields of Nagyr
(Rs 1500 one way, one hour, 15km) where and Hunza soar Rakaposhi (7788m), Diran
the road ends. A local union assigns drivers (7257m), Ultar (7388m) and Spantik
on a rotational basis. If you choose to walk, (7027m) in what the renowned mountaineer
the tiresome and hot 1386m climb to Fairy Eric Shipton called ‘the ultimate manifesta-
Point (2666m) takes four hours. tion of mountain grandeur’. Many travellers
Don’t organise special hires Gilgit–Fairy admire these snowcapped peaks from the
Point (Rs 3000) unless the driver is from KKH, but few venture beyond the highway
350 N A G Y R & H U N Z A • • Pa k o r a Pa s s lonelyplanet.com
to get a closer look at these impressive gi- When Gilgit is baking in midsummer heat,
ants. Some trails wend their way through the nearby Naltar Mountains offer a refresh-
the occasional forest, while other trails ing respite and quick access to great trekking.
snake their way alongside dramatic glaciers Blessed with an abundance of rainfall, unique
and icefalls. Within a few days, you can in the arid Karakoram, the richly forested
visit a mountaineer’s base camp, reach a Naltar Valley yields in its upper reaches to
viewpoint with aerial-like vistas overlook- alpine meadows carpeted with wildflowers.
ing the Hunza Valley, or even traverse a Dozens of impressive 5000m summits, though
mountain range. not high by Karakoram standards, attract
climbers from around the world.
A classic trek crosses the Pakora Pass
PAKORA PASS (4710m) between Naltar Valley and Pakora
village in the scenic Ishkoman Valley. Seasonal
TREK FACTS snowfields can lie east of the pass, and there’s a
Duration five days short glacier crossing on its west side. Crossing
Distance 47km these obstacles adds excitement and a bit of
Standard moderate challenge to the trek, yet no mountaineering
Season mid-June–September equipment or prior experience is necessary.
Start Upper Naltar The gentle and grandly scenic 1900m as-
Finish Pakora cent to the pass is split over 3½ days with
Public Transport yes fewer than four hours of trekking per day
Summary Alpine meadows, a glacier, a to facilitate acclimatisation. This affords
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
not-too-high pass, incredible scenery and ample time to relax and visit with shepherds.
easy access from Gilgit put this adventurous The steeper 2500m descent down the arid
route high on every trekker’s list. Pakora Gol in the rainshadow of the Naltar
PAKISTAN
PAKORA PASS 0
0
8 km
4 miles
Kuru An
(4700m)
Ba r Nala
Lal Patthar
(3690m) DAY 4 Taling Daintar
Chatorkhand Sentinel To
Pakora leba ri (2743m) Talamutz
an
(5260m)
High
Hayal Pass Nala Da Pass
kom
(5887m) ey
Na
Mehrbani la
r
Gupa
(5639m) Chalt
M
un
o
ta Shing
in
s Naltar Lake To
(3270m) Aliabad
R ive r
DAY 2 (40km)
Bangla Beshgiri
She
KK nz a
Na
r l ta
Khaltar Peak r Na
G
H
Hu
(5591m) lta
Ga
h rV
a
h
(R
ive al
r) ley
Upper Naltar/Jagot
h (2820m)
Ga
har START
ch
Bi
Lower Naltar To To
Nomal Gilgit
(10km) (38km)
lonelyplanet.com N A G Y R & H U N Z A • • R a k a p o s h i B a s e C a m p 351
The Trek
Starting from Upper Naltar (2820m) on Day The well-established, easy-to-follow trail
1 (three to 3½ hours, 11.2km), follow a track to Rakaposhi Base Camp, known locally
along the Naltar Gah through wonderfully as Tagaphari, starts at Minapin village,
lush forest of cedar, pine and birch passing which is easily accessible from the KKH.
shepherds’ huts. The track ends at exqui- This short trek has truly spectacular scen-
sitely clear Naltar Lake (3270m). On Day 2 ery. The Minapin Glacier tumbles dramati-
(3½ hours, 9.5km) a trail takes you past pic- cally from the 16km-long fluted snowy
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
turesque shepherds’ settlements and up the ridge connecting Rakaposhi and Diran.
verdant valley to the flower-filled meadows of Hachindar and Maiun, along with count-
Lower Shani (3690m) beneath formidable Shani less nameless peaks, sweep across the sky-
PAKISTAN
Peak (5887m). On Day 3 (two to three hours, line north of the Hunza River. The snowy
4.4km), rhubarb and juniper cover the hillside
as you ascend to the meadows of Upper Shani
(3797m) in the shelter of the Shani Glacier’s RAKAPOSHI BASE CAMP
0 4 km
0 2 miles
lateral moraine. A steep, grassy, flower-car-
To Aliabad
peted slope leads you to streamside Pakora High r
(15km) Not for Navigation
Rive KKH use listed maps
Camp (4230m). Hunza START/FINISH
Pisan
The way up and over the pass on Day 4 (six Minapin
Min a
(2012m)
to eight hours, 12.1km) ascends a steep, rocky To Gilgit
(88km)
Miachar
pin
Kacheli Lake
an
Gu
(3950m)
glacier, the trail goes downvalley to Lal Patthar Tagaphari
(3261m)
(3690m), named for the huge reddish boulder DAY 3
amid a few junipers. Continue downvalley Diran Base
through beautiful dense forest of birch, pine Camp (3650m)
Getting To/From the Trek The sparkling turquoise lake called Rush
For Minapin accommodation and transport Phari (4694m) sits high on a ridge between
information, see p298. Diran Hotel is the Upper Nagyr’s Hispar Valley and the Barpu
trek’s staging place. Glacier. The lake is a glorious destination
in its own right, but the side trip to the
The Trek
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
and then through a juniper forest. It emerges can see almost all the giant peaks of Hunza,
at Bang-i-das where a stream tumbles over a the 7500m peaks of the Hispar Muztagh and
cascade at the head of this pleasant valley, the 8000m giants of the Baltoro Muztagh,
before the final push to the grassy meadows at including K2 (8611m).
Hapakun (2804m), bordered by stands of firs. The two-day 1500m ascent to the lake is
On Day 2 (two to three hours, 3km), the strenuous and gains elevation rapidly, so do
trail crosses a verdant bowl where colourful this trek only when you’re previously accli-
songbirds thrive. Sweeping gently through matised (for more information on acclimati-
the meadow, the trail enters scattered juniper sation, see p400). You also make four short,
stands and emerges on a windy ridge top, nontechnical glacier crossings – twice each
where Diran and the summit ridge pop into
view. Cows and oxen graze on the nearby
pasture of Tagaphari (3261m), and grassy camp RUSH PHARI 0
0
4 km
2 miles
To Nagyr (2km);
sites line the meandering stream. The lateral Aliabad (15km)
Mulharai
Hapakun Chidin Harai
rp
mostly hidden from view behind the snow DAY 2 Gutens (4440m)
u
(3250m)
Bericho Kor
cier
Gl
DAY 4
dome of Rakaposhi East (7010m).
aci
(4694m) Peak
A strenuous eight-hour side trip goes to
r
(5098m)
alta
(3500m)
ma
yar Bar
across the Bualtar and Barpu Glaciers – with (7343m), Trivor (7728m), Mulungutti Sar
trekking days averaging five hours. (7025m) and mighty Destaghil Sar (7885m).
The final push upwards to Rush Phari on the
Planning morning of Day 3 (1½ hours, 2.1km) is an
The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research easy stroll compared with the ascent to Chidin
1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 1) covers Harai. From the sheltered camp sites along
the trek. Hiring a trekking company may help the southwest lakeshore, enjoy the four-hour
with route-finding and managing porters, side trip to Rush Peak. You make a trail-less but
who ask for a flat rate of Rs 400 per stage plus obvious ascent of a flower-covered slope to a
Rs 400 clothing and equipment allowance. hill top (4938m), where you catch your first
The trek totals eight stages round trip. glimpse of K2. A straightforward scramble
up talus takes you to the rocky summit of
Getting To/From the Trek Rush Peak. K2 is dramatically larger, Broad
For Hoper accommodation and transport Peak (8047m) and Gasherbrum IV (7925m)
information, see p307. are visible, and Baintha Brak (7285m) looms
above the Hispar La.
The Trek On Day 4 (two to three hours, 4.4km), a
Day 1 (four to five hours, 10.8km) starts at the steep 1244m descent on a somewhat faint
road’s end in Hoper (2790m), at the edge of trail takes you directly to Phahi Phari (3450m)
the Bualtar Glacier. You’ll want to hire someone along the Barpu Glacier’s edge. The aerial-
to assist you in crossing the Bualtar Glacier. like views of the Sumayar Bar Glacier, Miar
The route across the broken ice changes daily, Glacier, Malubiting and Phuparash are awe-
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
and though it’s a relatively short distance, it some. Return to Hoper on Day 5 (five to six
can take anywhere from 30 minutes to three hours, 14.9km) along the easy trail in the ab-
hours to reach the other side. lation valley and back across the Barpu and
PAKISTAN
A trail on the Bualtar Glacier’s opposite Bualtar Glaciers.
side leads to the Barpu Glacier. The 33km-long
Barpu Glacier draws its ice from the Sumayar ULTAR
Bar and Miar Glaciers that flow from the
snowy summits of Malubiting (7458m), Miar
(6824m) and Phuparash (6574m). The sheer TREK FACTS
granite peak soaring in the distance above Duration two days
the Sumayar Bar Glacier is called Ganesh Distance 6.2km
Chhish (Golden Peak) by the Burusho of Standard easy
Nagyr and Hunza, but is more well known Season May–October
by its Balti name Spantik (7027m). It takes Start/Finish Baltit
less than an hour to cross the stable rock- Public Transport yes
and-rubble trail over the Barpu Glacier and Summary A steep but short walk leads to a
reach the relatively level ablation valley on stunning glacial amphitheatre beneath the
the other side. snowy summit of Ultar.
Strolling along the Barpu Glacier’s margin
you pass the pasture settlements of Tagaphari,
Barpugram and Mulharai where clusters of On the lofty summit of Ultar (7388m), tower-
juniper, tamarisk and wild roses offer relief ing dramatically above Hunza, a fairy queen
(and shade) amid the rocky terrain. Stop at the once lived in a crystal palace. And from this
grassy camp site of Bericho Kor (3300m). legendary mountain flows Hunza’s life-
Day 2 (4½ to 5½ hours, 4.1km) is a steep, giving irrigation water. Baltit fort guards the
steady 1140m ascent up artemisia-dotted entrance to the steep, narrow canyon called
slopes to the grassy ridge top called Chidin Harai Ultar Nala, which opens in its upper reaches
(4440m). This camp site enjoys late-afternoon into a meadow surrounded by a cascade of
sunshine. Sunset and sunrise are even more glaciers and granite.
pleasurable as you watch the orange and pink The walk to the meadow and back can be
light wash across the Hispar Muztagh to the done as a day walk, but spending a night is an
northeast. This phenomenal wall of peaks unforgettable experience. On moonlit nights,
includes Lupgar Sar (7200m), Momhil Sar Ultar is sublime. Frequent avalanches off the
354 N A G Y R & H U N Z A • • U l t a r lonelyplanet.com
Hon Pass
(4257m) (left) onto the rocky moraine towards the base
Ul t a r G
START/FINISH Baltit
Karimabad Altit
Duikar a grassy area with a covered spring.
U l ta
only one trek and luckily for eager trekkers Meadow (3270m).
who find themselves here, it’s one of the A rock wall keeps the occasional livestock
region’s most outstanding overnight treks. out of the Lady Finger Camping Site (camping fee
PAKISTAN
GOJAL Planning
No maps exist that cover this trek, but the
Gojal lies in the heart of the Karakoram Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research
where glaciers course right to the KKH’s 1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 1) shows
edge. Outside Baltistan, Gojal is the the general area. Porters ask for a flat rate of
Karakoram’s most extensively glaciated re- Rs 370 per stage. The trek totals four stages
gion with eight of its 25 biggest glaciers. round trip.
Most treks in Gojal go to alpine pastures
along these glaciers. Gojal boasts Destaghil Getting To/From the Trek
Sar (7885m), the highest peak in the For Passu accommodation and transport
Karakoram west of K2, scores of 7000m information, see p310.
peaks, and vast stretches of territory ripe
for trekking. It’s some of the Karakoram’s The Trek
most dramatic scenery, and certainly its Starting from Passu (2400m) on Day 1 (five
most accessible. to seven hours, 6.7km), walk south on the
KKH, passing the Shisper View Hotel, to the
first hairpin bend (which comes up before
AVDEGAR KKH mile marker 681). Walk 50m further
(south of) past the ‘Yashfandan Waterpipe
TREK FACTS Project’ sign to an opening between two
guardrails.
Duration two days Follow the trail that descends east from the
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
Distance 13.4km KKH here, skirting the stone walls around
Standard moderate Yashbandan’s fields, and continue up the
Season May–October other side of this valley. The well-used trail
PAKISTAN
Start/Finish Passu dips through rocky gullies as it heads south
Public Transport yes and east towards the footbridge across the
Summary Lofty Avdegar gives the feeling Hunza River. The high-water trail to the foot-
of looking at immense glaciers and peaks bridge, which is used from June to August,
from a helicopter, with the KKH and Passu stays on the hillside above the river and takes
far below. 30 minutes from the KKH. Meanwhile, in
spring and autumn, the low-water trail de-
scends to cross the gravelly flood plain in a
Avdegar, Passu’s winter yak pasture, is more direct line to the footbridge and takes
east of and high above the Hunza River. 20 minutes.
Avdegar’s fantastic, almost aerial views It takes 10 minutes and more than 400
west of the Ghulkin, Passu and Batura careful steps on narrow boards spaced 75cm
Glaciers and the peaks above them are apart to cross the scary suspension footbridge,
the attraction. The trek to Avdegar is best which may not be possible for anyone who
undertaken as an overnight trip, but can be experiences vertigo. In high winds, especially
done as a very strenuous eight- to 10-hour common in the afternoon and in spring, the
day trip. Fitness and previous acclimati- footbridge tilts radically and is impossible
sation are necessary for this relentlessly to cross.
steep route. Across the footbridge where the trail
emerges onto the plain, it forks; the left-
AVDEGAR 0
0
3 km
2 miles
hand trail goes northeast to Kharamabad,
To Afiyatabad START/FINISH
and the right-hand trail goes southeast to
SIDE TRIP
(Sost) (39km) Passu (2400m)
Avdegar
Zarabad (see the Two Bridges day walk, p311).
Yashbandan
Passu
Glacier
Ridge Top
Avdegar
To go to Avdegar, bear northeast and fol-
H wy
ver
(3930m) low the path 2km and one hour to pleasant
am Ri DAY 2
Kharamabad (2610m).
or a
ak nz
Ka
r Hu Go along the paths between houses on
Kharamabad
Zarabad (2610m) the west (lower) edge of the cultivated area.
Hussaini
Not for Navigation From the furthest stone house, continue
use listed maps
To Gulmit over the open barren area, heading for the
356 G O J A L • • B a t u r a G l a c i e r lonelyplanet.com
niper trees (3360m). Continue up steeply pastures along the glacier’s margin, Wakhi
through scattered juniper, as the view grows shepherds tend their livestock.
more impressive. With almost no steep segments, the trek af-
PAKISTAN
Reach the more level pasture of Avdegar fords gradual acclimatisation, gaining less than
(3930m), marked by two cairns, in another 1½ 400m per day. The well-used, easy-to-follow
hours, or three to five hours from and 1340m trail mostly passes through ablation valleys
above Kharamabad. A three-sided stone shel- and along streams. The trek’s two crossings of
ter lies a short distance to the south, and level the Batura Glacier are fairly easy, yet a guide or
areas offer camp sites. Water comes from a porter is helpful for navigating the glacier.
stream in the gully to the south, which can be
hard to reach and dry in autumn. Planning
The view is spectacular, with Shīshpar The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research
dominating the horizon, and stretches from 1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 1) and
Ultar’s north side to Shīshpar and Passu peaks Deutschen Alpenverein (DAV) 1:100,000 map
at the Passu Glacier’s head, the tops of the Hunza-Karakorum cover the trek. It totals nine
Batura peaks behind Passu Sar, and the peaks stages round trip. Porters ask for Rs 370 per
at the Batura Glacier’s head in the distance, stage plus Rs 250 for clothing and equipment.
including Pamiri Sar (7016m). Morning sun
lights the glaciers and the peaks of the Batura Getting To/From the Trek
Muztagh nicely. For Passu accommodation and transport in-
A strenuous four- to six-hour side trip formation, see p310. Walk from any Passu
goes to the notch in the 4100m ridge above hotel or hop on any vehicle heading north for a
Avdegar, where a rock finger points up and 10-minute ride to China Camp between KKH
even more perspective can be gained. From mile markers 689 and 690. Look for the trail
the first large grassy area, head north (left) and amid overgrown vegetation at a signed canal.
cross the first large scree slope into a grassy
area. Then cross a smaller scree slope and The Trek
ascend the grassy area beyond, zigzagging The trail on Day 1 (five to six hours, 11.5km)
up the rock above the highest extent of grass. from China Camp (2430m), at the top of the
Passu yaks do this, which seems unlikely, but first rise just south of the bridge over the Batura
is true. Glacier’s outwash stream, leads you along lateral
Retrace your steps to Passu on Day 2 (five moraine to a high point above the chaotic glacial
to seven hours, 6.7km). rubble and on to the shepherds’ settlement at
lonelyplanet.com G O J A L • • S h i m s h a l Pa m i r 357
BATURA GLACIER 0
0
8 km
4 miles
Poop Lupdur
DAY 4
ier
KKH
Shikar Guchesham Base Camp r Riv e r
Gah (3630m) iba
Shireen Bo
SIDE TRIP Maidan
Shireen
Ma Jamalabad
e (3888m) ida
n Gl ac ier Morkhun
Flo
We
Shilmin
Ice
(3627m)
th
u
d
m
econ
Ghalapan
Na
Kukhil
Ba
la
(3501m)
a S
urt
a
t ur
Fatima'il Khaibar/
Gl
Sheet
ac
(3402m) Yashpirt
ie
Hu
(3302m)
r
nza
Piyakh Sheet Kush Jurjurkhona
Ba Sar (5790m)
tu (3345m) Bel DAY 2
ra Uzhokpirt
III Wudmull (3075m)
(7729m) Fl oe (3090m) River
Bat ura First Ice Maidùn Ba
Wa
II (3420m) tura
(7762m) Muchu Chhish
ll
(7453m) Gla
I cier China Camp START/FINISH
(7794m) Kirgus (2430m)
Washk
Pas (3000m) Mulungeen Janabad
su
Passu Sar M Patundas Yunzben
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
as (4570m) (2880m)
(7478m) si Yu
nz
Passu Dior ier
Glac Va
f
(7295m) su lle
Pas y Passu
Borit Sar
(5790m)
PAKISTAN
Shìshpar
(7611m) To
Gulmit
(8km) Hussaini
Yunzben (2880m). At Yunzben, you move onto upper Batura Glacier, Kampir Dior (7168m)
the Batura Glacier. It takes fewer than two hours and the Yukshgoz Glacier. The views from
to manoeuvre across the somewhat convoluted Lupdur are worth the whole trek.
2km route to the opposite side. Once along the Retrace your steps, camping at Yashpirt
glacier’s north margin, mature willows and ju- or Uzhokpirt on Day 4 and reaching China
nipers offer ample shade on the way to Uzhokpirt Camp on Day 5. On the return, ambitious
(3075m), a welcoming spot to camp. trekkers may want to try crossing the Batura
The easy trail to Yashpirt on Day 2 (two to Glacier on one of two longer and more diffi-
three hours, 5.1km) meanders through pretty cult routes along the glacier’s south margin.
ablation valleys, amid substantial willow, wild
rose, tamarisk and juniper. The first impressive SHIMSHAL PAMIR
views of the upper Batura Glacier and Batura
First Ice Floe draw you up to the pastures at
juniper-surrounded Yashpirt (3302m). TREK FACTS
Pass through a lovely series of ablation val- Duration five days
leys with abundant juniper, willow, birch and Distance 84km
poplar and a series of pasture settlements on Standard moderate
Day 3 (five to six hours, 15.7km) to the highest Season June–September
settlement at Guchesham (3630m). The views Start/Finish Shimshal village
of the Batura Wall from the moraine south of Public Transport yes
Guchesham are spectacular, and Destaghil Sar Summary Trekking to the Shimshal Pamir
rises to the east in the distance. takes you to Shimshalis’ favourite place,
The highly recommended six-hour side trip where lakes sparkle on the Central Asian
from Guchesham to the meadow at Lupdur watershed and shepherds call melodiously
(3870m) offers the best views of the Batura across the highlands.
Second Ice Floe, and excellent views of the
358 G O J A L • • S h i m s h a l Pa m i r lonelyplanet.com
SHIMSHAL PAMIR 0
0
10 km
6 miles
Gu
Khush use listed maps
nj -e- Du
Dur-e-Gush Chashkin-e-Sar
(4929m) Pamir Mai Dur
(5915m)
Shpodeen Pass
(5346m) (4348m)
r Rive
Pamir
M ai D Chashkin
Shpodeen Uween-e-Sar u
(4471m) (4650m) Purien-e-Sar
Shachmirk Pass DAY 3
r
r
Shuizherav
(4560m) (3916m) Arbab Purien
River
(4350m) Mungalig Sar
Zardgarben Targeen (3931m)
(4075m) (5931m)
To KKH Yarzeen
ive r
r
(3850m) Tang R Qerqazi Shuiz
ve
(54km) Michael
-e-
Ri
r Kheshk he r a v
Sh im Bridge m i Purien-e-Ben
shal Ri ve r DAY 5 (3596m) Abdullah
Pa
Khan DAY 4
Wuch Furzeen
Shimshal (3365m) Maidan Shimshal Pass
(3000m) Band-e-Sar (4735m)
Gar-e-Sar DAY 2 Shuwerth
START Chat Pirt
(3502m) Past Furzeen
FINISH (3517m) Zhit Badav
River
ldu
Qapachpund Pass
Chikor
Bra
(5270m)
ier
ac
Adver Sar
Gl
(6600m)
il
gh
Kh
z
Ya
Yazghil Sar ur
(5964m) do
G
ur
ha k
la
t i ya r D
B
ci
pin
er
extensive alpine grassland above 4500m. to eight hours, 12km) from Shimshal village
Shimshalis make traditional seasonal mi- (3000m) and fill water bottles at the spring
grations, called kuch, to their beloved before the footbridge, the only water for hours
PAKISTAN
Shimshal Pamir, and fortunate trekkers may along this trail. Cross the footbridge to the
be able to join them. In late May they leave river’s true right bank, veer right (avoiding the
Shimshal village for Shuizherav, and in June trail to Zardgarben that climbs immediately)
move to Shuwerth, the main summer set- and follow the wide river bed 1½ hours or
tlement. In early September, they move to 5km to the confluence of the Shimshal and
Shuizherav, and in October they return to Pamir-e-Tang Rivers.
Shimshal village. Ford the Pamir-e-Tang River to its true left
Two trails to the Shimshal Pamir join one bank, marvelling at the immense gorge. Ascend
another at Purien-e-Ben. The tang (gorge) the steep spur between the two rivers for 2km
route, which is described here, goes by the or 1½ hours, as you round a bend and enter a
Pamir-e-Tang River. The other route, the basin. The ascent continues steadily through
uween (pass) route, which crosses two ar- artemisia steppes, passing lots of igneous rock.
duous passes (Shachmirk and Uween-e- Just above the basin, the trail splits; take the
Sar, both are higher than 4500m), was the right fork to Gar-e-Sar. Several cairns mark
standard way until 1997 when the tang trail Gar-e-Sar (3502m), or ‘top of the rock’. Here
was improved. However, the uween route you have superb vistas of the Yazghil Glacier,
is still used by yaks going to and from the Adver Sar, and the hard-to-see 7000m peaks of
Shimshal Pamir. the Hispar Muztagh: Kunyang Chhīsh; Pumori
Chhīsh; and Yukshin Gardan.
Planning From Gar-e-Sar, follow level galleries pass-
The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research ing eroded cliffs on the canyon’s opposite side.
1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 1) covers Reach Shanj in 15 minutes, a scree-filled gully
the trek. Porters ask for a flat rate of Rs 300 where an unreliable trickle of water flows.
per stage plus Rs 500 clothing and equip- Traverse 450m above the river on an exposed
ment allowance. The trek totals 12 stages trail 1½ to two hours, then descend a steep
round trip. 130m scree slope to Past Furzeen (3517m). A
clear side stream provides generally reliable
Getting To/From the Trek water during summer, and has a few tent
For Shimshal accommodation and transport sites. You must be prepared to walk to Wuch
information, see p313. Furzeen if it’s dry.
lonelyplanet.com G O J A L • • Pa m i r i 359
On Day 2 (six hours, 13km) ascend along mood. Everyone must be happy and it’s best
the stream, soon leaving it to ascend a dif- to enter singing!
ficult section called Gulchin Purien. The Stroll two hours through meadows amid
route ascends steadily and traverses high be- herds of yaks, skirting the two lakes that lie
fore descending a scree gully to Wuch Furzeen on the watershed between South Asia and
(3365m) with a small spring, which if dry Central Asia, to the Shimshal Pass (4735m).
necessitates an awkward trip down to the river Pleasant camp sites (4700m) are in the level
for silty water. area just north of (below) Shimshal Pass, in
Descend to the Pamir-e-Tang River in 15 view of the lakes. Fifteen minutes beyond
minutes and cross a footbridge. Continue the almost unnoticeable Shimshal Pass is the
along the river’s true right bank for 30 main summer settlement of Shuwerth.
minutes, ascending a short scree slope to Retrace the tang route in two days
a flat area 60m above the river. Follow the (41.6km), camping at Wuch Furzeen on
trail ascending 150m along galleries, and de- Day 4. (The longer and more difficult
scend into Purien-e-Ben (3596m) in another uween trail offers a challenging three-day
45 minutes. alternative route.)
Cross the Pamir Mai Dur River via a
footbridge. Climb 320m on the 30-degree PAMIRI
trail up the canyon wall out of Purien-e-
Ben, through a doorway and up a juniper
staircase (purien) one hour to Purien-e-Sar TREK FACTS
(3916m), the plain above. Mungalig Sar Duration three days
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
(5931m) is the prominent peak to the east, Distance 22km
Adver Sar (6600m) to the west, and the Standard moderate
striking Chat Pirt massif to the south. Season mid-June–September
PAKISTAN
Beyond Purien-e-Sar, the walk becomes Start/Finish Zood Khun
easier. The trail traverses high above the Public Transport yes
river, crossing several tributary streams in Summary One of Chapursan’s few short
narrow gorges. Traverse gently to a rocky open-zone treks, Pamiri has dramatic views
rise and you’ll reach the first side stream, of 7000m peaks, glaciers and icefalls.
Kushk Yarzeen, in 1¼ hours. Arbab Purien
(3931m), the nicest of these side valleys
and a good place to camp with a spring, The snowy summits of Chapursan’s high-
is 30 minutes further beneath distinctive est peaks, Kampir Dior (7168m) and Pamiri
red rocks. Sar (7016m), rise above the convoluted ice
Start Day 3 (six to seven hours, 17km) of the imposing Yishkuk Glacier. A relent-
by passing above Miter Kheshk in one hour lessly rocky route along the glacier’s north-
and descending towards the river. Follow west margin, averaging four hours and 340m
the rocky trail along the river for 45 min- ascent per day upvalley, leads to Pamiri, a
utes to the confluence of the Gunj-e-Dur base camp for these 7000m giants.
and Shuizherav Rivers. Cross a footbridge to
the Gunj-e-Dur River’s true left bank. Pass Planning
the huts at Qerqazi Kheshk and follow the The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research
Shuizherav River two to 2½ hours to the set- 1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 1) cov-
tlement of Shuizherav (4350m), with many ers the trek. Porters ask for a flat rate of
shepherds’ huts along the river and an alter- Rs 320 per stage. The trek totals six stages
native camping area below. round trip.
Cross the footbridge to the Shuizherav’s
true left bank and ascend a side stream’s true Getting To/From the Trek
right bank. The easy ascent to Abdullah Khan For Zood Khun accommodation and trans-
Maidan (4600m) takes one hour. The pamir port information, see p316 and p316.
(glacially formed high-elevation valleys re-
nowned as summer grazing grounds) is the The Trek
precinct of women and children, who have Day 1 (four hours, 9km) starts by passing
a rule: you cannot enter the pastures in a sad through the gate (3368m) across the road at
360 G O J A L • • K i l i k & M i n t a k a Pa s s e s lonelyplanet.com
Zood Khun’s western end. Leave the road, KILIK & MINTAKA PASSES
heading west past Yishkuk Hilga on a trail that
crosses and recrosses the Chapursan River via
two footbridges. Stroll through the grassy, TREK FACTS
spring-fed areas of Zhui Sam and Korkut, Duration six days
reaching the shepherds’ settlement at Kuk Distance 88km
Chezham (3393m), near the Yishkuk Glacier’s Standard easy
mouth, in 1½ hours (4km). Season June–September
The prominent red rock called Sekr beck- Start/Finish Misgar
ons you steadily and gradually up along the Public Transport yes
glacier’s lateral moraine. Step over the stream Summary Wide, well-established trails lead
at Sekr, continue ascending to cross a shoul- up two broad valleys filled with wildflowers,
der and reach the reliable clear stream at dramatic cascades, petroglyphs and wild-
Shigard Yishkuk Zherav (3745m), 2½ hours or life to two historic passes on the Chinese
5km from Kuk Chezham. A level yet rocky border.
alluvial fan affords camp sites dramatic
glacier views.
The first 10km of Day 2 (four to five hours, For more than 1000 years, Kilik and Mintaka
13km) is a very rugged traverse along scree were important Silk Road passes and Misgar
and talus slopes. The welcome sight of a clear (3075m) was the jumping-off point. Following
stream draws you across the final rocky sec- Britain’s conquest of Hunza in 1891, Misgar
tion to a grassy, flower-filled ablation valley. became the British listening post on Central
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
A wide, level area with excellent mountain Asia. British sportsmen crossed Kilik Pass
views offers alternative camp sites to Pamiri. (4827m) to hunt Marco Polo sheep and spy on
Ten minutes further, a small lake called Qush Russian travellers. Hunza men carried weekly
PAKISTAN
Zhui (3985m) fills the ablation valley. dispatches from Gilgit to the British consulate
Pamiri (4048m) lies less than an hour above in Kashgar via Mintaka Pass (4726m). After
the lake, tucked into a narrow spot against the Pakistan’s Independence in 1947, these two
glacier’s moraine. You can climb onto the passes became off limits to foreigners until
moraine ridge for otherwise ‘hidden’ moun- 1999. Today trekkers can visit these passes
tain views, or you can go on an excursion where in 1894 Lord Curzon stood at the out-
up the side valley for better views of peaks ermost edge of Britain’s empire.
and icefalls. Kilik and Mintaka are rich in cultural and
Retrace your steps to Zood Khun on Day 3 natural history. You find ancient Kyrgyz
(six to seven hours, 22km). tombs, old polo grounds, prehistoric petro-
glyphs, abundant wildflowers, rare butter-
PAMIRI 0
0
8 km
4 miles
flies, and plenty of ibex and brown bear
To Baba Ghundi START/FINISH signs. Built by the military, the wide trails
Ziarat (12km) Kampir Ispenji To KKH
Zood Khun (3368m)
Chapursan ver
Ri
Dior Reshit (35km) to these gentle passes are easy to follow,
Sher-e-
Kuk Chezham Yishkuk Shutmerg Sabz Sumayar with less than 600m of ascent or descent
(3393m) (3450m)
DAY 2 Raud
per day. Trekking days average five hours,
Shigard Sekr (3600m) springs and trees are abundant, and camp
Yishkuk Not for Navigation
Zherav Kit-ke-zherav Wy use listed maps sites are grassy.
r
(3690m) e
cie
(3745m)
Gla
en
Pamiri (4048m)
(4530m) 14) covers the trek, except Kilik Pass. Porters
ask for a flat rate of Rs 350 per stage. The
Yishkuk
Pamiri Sar
Getting To/From the Trek
Kampir Dior
(7168m)
(7016m)
Glacier
For Misgar accommodation and transport
tura
Ba information, see p316.
lonelyplanet.com B A LT I S TA N 361
Ash (4726m)
Goresho Gamuural
k
Yatumgoz
Wodwashk Iletum Harai
e
Uween Glacier
ak
Put Hil
Rung Hil of ancient landslides that once dammed
k Bar
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
Kalam Darchi Attractive grassy terraces on the cliffs above
Kermin
To Khunjerab
Pass
START/FINISH Pass (50km) and the clear white central ice of the Gul
Misgar Khwaja Uween Glacier give this camp site a
PAKISTAN
(3075m)
Kil Rv dramatic appeal.
her H
ik
KK
av
Ri To Afiyatabad
ve (Sost)
r Flowers decorate the hillside on the
nz
(5km)
Khu
camps share in a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The trek is demanding, but is glacier travel at its
best. Far and away, it’s Pakistan’s most popular trek.
Glaciers are a compelling natural phenomenon, and trekking up one takes you into an other-
PAKISTAN
worldly realm; different, dangerous, beautiful and deceptive. It’s essential to prepare thoroughly
by learning about glacier travel, rope technique and crevasse rescue.
Humbrok Glacier;
Masherbrum (7821m), shimmering at the Humbrok & DAY 2
Cigarette
head of the Hushe Valley, beckons travel- Peaks Humbrok
(3680m) Hushe
lers north from Khaplu. Hushe (3050m),
Hushe
(3050m)
a
Humbrok Nal START/FINISH
the valley’s highest village, is the start-
Riv
is a splendid place to spend a day or two. rigated fields, but soon continues up through
The trail, although not hard to find, is steep, steep, rocky terrain dotted by artemisia.
ascending 630m. Attractive camp sites are in the meadow be-
yond the cluster of shepherds’ huts at Humbrok
Planning (3680m). At the head of the valley is the
The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research Humbrok Glacier, beneath the black pyra-
1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 2) covers mid of Humbrok Peak (6459m) and sharp,
the trek. Porters ask for a flat rate of Rs 360 snow-clad Cigarette Peak.
per stage plus Rs 250 clothing and equipment A side trip to the alpine meadow on the
allowance. The trek totals two stages round ridge line south of Humbrok offers spectacu-
trip, excluding the side trip. lar views of the surrounding peaks, including
distant K2. Unless you’re previously acclima-
Getting To/From the Trek tised, wait until the next morning to embark
For Hushe accommodation and transport on this five-hour side trip. The gruelling 500m
information, see p293. ascent to the ridge line follows livestock paths
for a short distance, but then becomes a cross-
The Trek country route. Ask a shepherd to show you
On Day 1 (2½ to three hours, 5.5km) follow the way to the spectacular viewpoint called
the Hushe River’s west bank to Humbrok Spang-e-Go (4180m).
Nala, then turn west and follow the stream’s Retrace your steps to Hushe on Day 2 (1½
north bank. At first the ascent is through ir- to two hours, 5.5km).
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
PAKISTAN
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TDHI RU EMCBT OT RA YB 364
Directory
Prices throughout this book are based on
CONTENTS a hotel’s cheapest single/double room (in al-
most all budget and some midrange places
Accommodation 364 this does not include air-con) and don’t in-
Activities 366 clude taxes unless otherwise stated. In towns
Business Hours 366 where we make no recommendations you’re
Children 367 most likely to find cheap lodgings around the
Climate Charts 367 train or bus stations.
Customs 367 All places listed in this book’s regional
Dangers & Annoyances 369 chapters have private attached bathroom un-
Discount Cards 369 less otherwise mentioned. If a hotel (budget
Embassies & Consulates 370 and midrange) advertises a hot shower you
Festivals & Events 370 should first check to see whether the shower
Food 371 works effectively (if at all) and if it does in-
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 371 deed deliver hot water. Some showers render
Holidays 372 a mere trickle of water, making the bucket a
Insurance 372 better bet. Squat toilets are only common in
Internet Access 372 the budget category, although some lower-
Legal Matters 372 priced hotels have a mix of squat and sit-
Maps 373 down flush toilets. Most budget places don’t
Money 373 supply toilet paper or soap (possibly no towel
Photography 375 either), and hot water may be irregular or
Post 375 only available during certain hours. Apart
Shopping 376 from top-end hotels, many places use wall-
Solo Travellers 376 mounted electric geysers (water heaters) that
Telephone 377 need to be switched on up to an hour before
Time 377 use. Almost all budget and midrange hotel
Toilets 377 bathroom sinks lack plugs.
Tourist Information 378 Accommodation prices aren’t always fixed.
Travellers With Disabilities 378 Popular domestic holiday destinations, such
Visas 378 as Upper Swat, the Kaghan Valley and the
Volunteering 379 Galis, can get extremely crowded in summer
Women Travellers 379 and prices skyrocket. Off-season, on the other
hand, you should be able to strike bargains
ACCOMMODATION with the handful of places that remain open.
Accommodation in Pakistan and Xinjiang Hotels in all price categories are usually open
ranges from ramshackle budget lodgings to to tariff negotiation in off-peak periods or if
five-star opulence but the entire range is not al- occupancy levels are low. The downturn in
ways on offer. Outside major cities and summer foreign tourism in recent years has largely led
resorts, you won’t find luxurious hotels; yet, the
budget accommodation can be surprisingly
more salubrious than that found in the cities. BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE
Foreigners may not be welcome at some For more accommodation reviews and rec-
budget places in Pakistan because these hotels ommendations by Lonely Planet authors,
don’t have the necessary government hotel- check out the online booking service at
register form. For those places that do accept www.lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find the true,
foreigners, check-out is typically late morning, insider lowdown on the best places to stay.
but may sometimes be in the afternoon or 24 Reviews are thorough and independent.
hours from check-in; in any case, it’s often Best of all, you can book online.
flexible if requested beforehand.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n 365
DIRECTORY
PRACTICALITIES
Pakistan and China use the metric system.
Electricity is 220/240V 50/60 Hz AC in Pakistan and 220V 50 Hz AC in China. Pakistani sockets
accept two round pins, although some accept a third (earth or ground) pin. Chinese sockets
accept two flat pins or three-pronged angle pins. Adaptors are widely available, but 120V to
220V converters are scarce.
Major English-language dailies in Pakistan include Dawn, The Nation, The News, Daily Times
and Frontier Post. Dawn, The Nation and The News are the pick of the bunch.
The China Daily is China’s official English-language newspaper.
In Pakistan read incisive current affairs in the monthly Newsline and Herald magazines.
State-run Pakistan Broadcasting Corporation (PBC) transmits largely government viewpoints
and Islamic values over the radio airwaves. There are a growing number of private FM broad-
casters.
Pakistan has satellite and cable TV available at all top-end, many midrange and a couple of
budget hotels. Channels include Discovery, BBC, CNN and Star Movies. The national broad-
caster is PTV.
Chinese Central TV (CCTV) has two sanitised English-language channels.
to supply exceeding demand, furthering the some hostels impose night curfews. In sum-
opportunity for bargaining. mer, hostels in the Northern Areas (NA) can
Breakdowns and blackouts (‘load shed- be especially popular with Pakistani students,
ding’) are fairly common in remote towns and if they’re busy you may only be permitted
and villages (less frequent in the larger cities), to stay for several days. See regional chapters
so it pays to carry a flashlight. Sound pollution for details.
can be diabolical, especially in urban centres,
so bring good-quality earplugs. Government Resthouses
Hotel tariffs are usually raised annually, Also called circuit houses, inspection bun-
so the prices quoted in this book are likely to galows or dak bungalows, most government
have risen by the time you read this. resthouses are two- or three-unit guesthouses
Note that some hotels in cantonment areas run by government agencies for staff on busi-
of a city may deny accommodation to anyone ness. Each has a chowkidar (caretaker) living
who has ‘Not Valid for Cantt Area’ stamped nearby who can, by arrangement, prepare
next to their visa – for more information meals. At some places you may need to bring
see p378. your own bedding.
In principle, government resthouses are
Camping & Youth Hostels available to tourists if nobody else is using them.
Overlanders with their own transport can In practice many of them must be booked with
park and camp cheaply at a few camp sites the relevant person (often a chief engineer) in
as well as at several hotel grounds (regional district capitals. You could take your chances
chapters have details). Vandalism and theft are without a booking, although it’s wise not to do
usually not a problem. In Xinjiang you can’t so if it’s the only accommodation available in the
pitch a tent with any security around larger area. Campers or cyclists may be able to pitch
towns, but you can camp at places like Kara a tent in the grounds (for a nominal charge),
Kul and below Muztagh Ata. which usually make great camping spots.
The Pakistan Youth Hostels Association The best resthouses and their booking
(PYHA), with headquarters at Youth Hostel offices are noted in the regional chapters.
Islamabad (see p81), runs a number of hostels
in Pakistan, with gender-segregated dormito- Railway Retiring Rooms
ries, gardens where you can often pitch a tent Pakistan Railways provides retiring rooms at
and (usually) cooking facilities. Guests may be most major city train stations. These are mostly
required to lend a hand with clean-up, and spartan singles/doubles that are only available
DIRECTORY 366 D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s lonelyplanet.com
to holders of air-con or 1st-class sleeper tickets for details) in larger towns and tourist areas,
(usually departing within 24 hours). They’re and sometimes from wardens on the spot.
really only useful if you arrive very late at night Some Fisheries offices rent tackle.
or depart very early in the morning, and even
then you may find them full. You may have Skiing
to supply your own bedding and checkout Simple downhill skiing facilities exist in the
is within 24 hours. Cleanliness is variable. Naltar Valley near Gilgit and at Kalabagh
Waiting rooms with sofas, toilets and showers near Murree. The country’s biggest ski re-
may also be available. sort is at Malam Jaba in the Swat Valley. The
season is from December through to March.
Village Guesthouses Experienced ski mountaineers can enjoy
In the Northern Areas, the Aga Khan Rural world-class mountain ski touring on the
Support Programme and Pakistan Tourism Deosai Plains and on the Batura, Hispar and
Development Corporation (PTDC) started a Biafo Glaciers in March and April.
Village Guest House programme under which
people converted parts of their homes into Whitewater Boating
guesthouses, with a few comfortable rooms Several rivers in the North-West Frontier
and home-cooked meals. Those that survived Province (NWFP) and NA have stretches
are now self-supporting. Most aren’t really of class IV or easier rapids; ie suitable for
‘homestays’, since guests tend to be left to commercial rafting and kayaking. These in-
themselves and fed separately, but they’re clude the Indus (Jaglot to Thakot in Indus
closer to grassroots level than a hotel. A few Kohistan), Kunhar (Naran to Kaghan in
that are especially good value are mentioned the Kaghan Valley), Swat (Madyan to Saidu
in this book’s regional chapters. Sharif), Gilgit (from Punial to the Indus
confluence), Lower Ishkoman, Shyok (from
ACTIVITIES Khapalu to Gol in Baltistan) and Hunza (Sost
By far the most popular activity for visitors to Passu and Aliabad to Gilgit). Parts of the
to Pakistan is trekking, which is covered in Chitral River are also open. The rafting season
the Trekking in Northern Pakistan chapter is approximately May to late June and late
(p331). Also popular are day hikes, which September through to November.
are presented in the relevant regional chap-
ters. Some Pakistani and overseas adventure- BUSINESS HOURS
travel agencies offer various group packages Pakistan
including mountain and desert 4WD safa- Government offices operate from around 8am
ris, horse treks, cross-country skiing, winter to 3pm Monday to Thursday and Saturday,
yak safaris, desert camel treks and assorted and 8am to noon on Friday. Private offices
special-interest trips. generally open from 9am to 5pm Monday
to Friday (some closing between noon and
Cycling 1pm for prayers) and some also operate on
The Karakoram Highway (KKH) could have Saturday (often only until 3pm).
been invented for cyclists, although it’s often State banks (foreign-exchange sections) are
a demanding trip; for more about the road, usually open from 9am to 1.30pm Monday
bringing a bike to China and Pakistan, and to Thursday and 9am to 12.30pm on Friday
overseas resources, see p385. Information on and Saturday. Some banks stay open longer.
risky areas is provided in each regional chapter. Post office timings vary regionally but they
Also take note of the rockfall warning, p369. generally open from around 9am to 4pm
Monday to Thursday and Saturday, and
Fishing 9am to 12.30pm on Friday, although some
Many of Pakistan’s mountain rivers and lakes stay open longer and some close for 30 min-
are stocked with trout. Popular reaches are utes between 1pm and 2pm. Most museums
in the Gilgit River basin, the Astor Valley, open from around 9am to 5pm in summer
Baltistan, the Kaghan Valley, Swat and Chitral. and to 4pm in winter (see regional chapters
Trout season is usually from 10 March to 9 for exact timings); many are closed on the
October. Information and licences are avail- first Wednesday of each month throughout
able at Fisheries offices (see regional chapters the year.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • C h i l d re n 367
DIRECTORY
Restaurant hours are variable. Breakfast is rated by the driving standards. For long trips,
usually available from approximately 7am and trains are usually the most comfortable mode
restaurants open for dinner around 6pm to of transport.
7pm. Some stay open throughout the day. For helpful hints, grab Lonely Planet’s
During Ramazan (Ramadan), opening Travel with Children, and peruse the Kids to
hours are shortened by most government Go branch of Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum
offices and many businesses, especially res- (http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com) where you can also
taurants (which are typically closed from pose questions to fellow travellers.
dawn to dusk); hours vary across the country,
with notices usually posted on the business’s CLIMATE CHARTS
entrance. Pakistan has three main seasons: cool (around
October to February), hot (around March
China to June) and wet/monsoon (around July to
Everything official runs on Beijing time, September). There are, however, big regional
opening at 8.30am and usually closing at 5pm variations – see p15 for more information,
Monday to Friday. However, in Kashgar and and p368 for climate chart diagrams.
Tashkurgan people operate on (unofficial)
‘Xinjiang time’, which is two hours earlier. A CUSTOMS
few businesses may add a half day on Saturday Pakistan
but Sunday is universally the day of rest. Alcohol cannot be brought into Pakistan. If
you have overlooked this fact, declare it to a
CHILDREN customs officer who should provide a receipt
Despite the friendly reception children receive so you can claim the booze back when you
in Pakistan, travelling with little ones can be depart. Tobacco attracts limits of 200 ciga-
hard work and requires constant vigilance, rettes and 50 cigars.
especially near chaotic city roads. It’s also There are no other significant entry re-
important to realise that health risks such as strictions, and no apparent limits on import/
diarrhoea pose a greater threat to children export of foreign cash. No special permit is
than adults (see p395) – consult your doctor currently needed to bring in your own bicycle,
for advice well before travelling. although you’re expected to have noted it on
Remember to pack plenty of high-factor your visa application.
sunscreen and a snug-fitting wide-brimmed On departure, baggage inspection is usually
hat. A washable changing mat will come in cursory for foreigners unless you have obvious
handy for covering dirty (germ-ridden) sur- items like furniture, in which case you may be
faces. If your child takes special medication, asked for sales receipts and bank encashment
it’s wise to bring along an adequate stock. receipts. Airport security staff may confiscate
Standard baby products such as nappies (dia- batteries from cameras and walkmans etc that
pers) are available in the larger Pakistani cities are carried in any hand luggage, so consider
but can be tough to find in smaller centres. putting these in your check-in baggage before
Always carry sufficient clean drinking water you get to the airport.
as children can dehydrate quickly, especially You’re not allowed to export antiquities; if
during the warmer months. in doubt, make sure you ask a museum cura-
Midrange hotels usually have ‘family tor or top-end hotel shopkeeper who deals
rooms’ or will readily provide an extra bed in antiquities. If you buy more than US$500
(sometimes at an additional cost). Restaurants worth of jewellery in Pakistan, there’s the
rarely have children’s menus, and although slight possibility you may be asked to pro-
they’re often happy to whip up something duce receipts and/or money-exchange (or
special in the cities, many country eateries credit-card) receipts to the value of the items
simply don’t have the resources. Numerous purchased. Indeed, if you’ve done a lot of
Pakistani restaurants have special family sec- shopping in Pakistan it’s probably a good idea
tions that separate women and family groups to have the money-exchange and/or credit-
from the majority male clientele. card receipts and shop receipts handy in
Most children will find the overcrowded case you’re asked to show them (the money-
public transport disconcerting, and, depend- exchange and credit-card receipts should total
ing on the child, will be terrified or exhila- the shop receipts).
climate charts (M)
DIRECTORY 368 D I R E C T O R Y • • C u s t o m s lonelyplanet.com
30 86 30 86
8 200 8 200
20 68 20 68
10 50 10 50
4 100 4 100
0 32 0 32
-10 14 0 0 -10 14 0 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
30 86 30 86
8 200 8 200
20 68 20 68
10 50 10 50
4 100 4 100
0 32 0 32
-10 14 0 0 -10 14 0 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
30 86 30 86
8 200 8 200
20 68 20 68
10 50 10 50
4 100 4 100
0 32 0 32
-10 14 0 0 -10 14 0 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
KARACHI 4m (13ft)
Average
Max/Min QUETTA 1654m (5429ft)
Average
Max/Min
30 86 30 86
8 200 8 200
20 68 20 68
10 50 10 50
4 100 4 100
0 32 0 32
-10 14 0 0 -10 14 0 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
Officials are very sharp-eyed about disguised You can import 400 cigarettes and four bottles
firearms, such as those from Darra Adam Khel, of wine or spirits. Cash amounts exceeding
and penalties are stiff. Drug trafficking incurs US$5000 (or its equivalent in another cur-
severe penalties so don’t even entertain the rency) should be declared.
thought of smuggling drugs out of Pakistan. Chinese authorities have occasionally
seized documents they deem pornographic,
China political or intended for religious purposes.
At entry customs, you fill out a form declaring Books, films, records or tapes might be tem-
money, cameras, radios and so on; you get a porarily seized in order to determine that they
copy, which you must present on departure. do not violate regulations.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 369
DIRECTORY
On departure, you turn in the declara- Be wary of absolutely anyone, local or tour-
tion you filled out when you entered, and ist, who approaches you with drugs for sale.
they may want to see the listed items again. Some dealers are in cahoots with the police,
You’re not allowed to take out antiquities; a and will set you up in exchange for a cut of
purchase receipt can save arguments over an the fine or bribe.
item’s status.
Police
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES If you’re approached by a plain-clothes officer
Sound and air pollution, irksome bureauc- and asked to open your bags (eg for a drugs
racy, exasperating traffic and crowded search on a long-distance train or as you are
public transport are the subcontinent’s nor- leaving the Tribal Areas), be polite but insist on
mal challenges, but daily hassles here are seeing his identification badge first. There are
generally low-key compared with those in con men, but there are also legitimate plain-
neighbouring India. clothes officers. In general, the authentic ones
Read local newspapers and talk to tourism will let you check out their badges for as long as
officials and other travellers to stay abreast of you feel is necessary. They’re also more likely to
the latest potential hazards and scams. Also search slowly and to let you repack one section
check out the Pakistan branch of Lonely of your bag before they move on to the next.
Planet’s Thorn Tree forum (http://thorntree.lonelyplanet
.com), where travellers may post warnings Rockfall
about problems they have encountered. The likelihood of a rockfall on valley footpaths
For important safety advice, see p16. and mountain roads rises sharply in rainy
Women should also read p379. weather. Walkers should simply accept this
and find something else to do. Don’t cross a
Demonstrations rockfall on a road hoping to find transport
Rallies, demonstrations and processions occur on the other side; the whole road is probably
from time to time throughout Pakistan, often littered with rocks, with more to come.
with very short notice, and occasionally have
an anti-Western (especially American) slant. Theft
You’re strongly advised to stay well away from Theft has not, so far, been a major problem for
these for your own safety. During major elec- travellers in Pakistan. However, exercise the
tion campaigns political expression can take same caution you would while travelling else-
a violent turn – if this occurs, steer clear of where; keep your money and passport with
public gatherings and retreat to your hotel you at all times, preferably in a well-concealed
until it’s safe to venture out. moneybelt, and never leave valuables in your
hotel room.
Dogs
Steer clear of guard dogs often kept by herders Violence
in remote areas; eg the Kalasha valleys, Upper In recent times the combination of sectarian
Chitral, Upper Swat, the Upper Kaghan Valley and ethnic tensions, corrupt or incompetent
and Baltistan. If you’re bitten you run the risk law enforcement and a thriving tribal arms
of contracting rabies so be cautious no matter industry has escalated violence in particular
where you are in Pakistan. parts of Pakistan. These hot spots and other
important safety tips are covered in warnings
Drugs at the start of individual regional chapters.
Charas (hashish) is available in many parts
of the country; however, before indulging DISCOUNT CARDS
be warned that drug possession is illegal in Showing your foreign-student ID card means
Pakistan. Apart from opening yourself up to you’re entitled to a sensational 50% discount
being taken advantage of, the penalties for on train travel (see p392) – so it certainly pays
possession, use or smuggling of drugs are to bring a student card if you intend travel-
strictly enforced, with the possibility of long ling by train.
jail sentences and hefty fines. Legislation PYHA hostels (see p365) are part of the
passed in 1994 makes drug smuggling pun- Hostelling International (HI) network; an HI
ishable by death. card entitles you to standard discount rates.
DIRECTORY 370 D I R E C T O R Y • • E m b a s s i e s & C o n s u l a t e s lonelyplanet.com
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October Ramazan (2 September 2008, 22 August 2009, 12 August
The Aga Khan’s first visit to Hunza in 1960 2010, 1 August 2011) The holy month of sunrise-to-sunset
Celebrated by Ismailis in Hunza on 23 October. fasting.
Eid-ul-Fitr (also called Chhoti Eid or Small Eid; 1 October
November 2008, 21 September 2009, 10 September 2010, 31 August
Jashan-i-Gilgit (Northern Areas Independence 2011) Two or three days of joyous celebrations at the end of
Day) Also known as the Gilgit Festival, commemorating Ramazan, with family visits, gifts, banquets, bonuses at work
the 1947 uprising against the Maharaja of Kashmir. The big and donations to society’s less privileged. A public holiday.
event is a week-long polo tournament in Gilgit, starting Eid-ul-Azha (Adha) (also called Bari Eid or Big Eid; 8
on 1 November. December 2008, 28 November 2009, 17 November 2010,
The Aga Khan’s first visit to Gojal in 1987 Cele- 7 November 2011) Feast of Sacrifice, commemorating
brated by Ismailis in Gojal on 18 November. the Prophet Ibrahim’s readiness to obey God even to the
point of sacrificing his son. During the weeks ahead of
December this celebration, markets throng with goats and sheep;
The Aga Khan’s Birthday Celebrated with gatherings those who can afford it slaughter one after early-morning
and speeches on 13 December in Ismaili areas. prayers, sharing the meat with relatives and with the less
privileged. This is also the season for haj (pilgrimage to
Islamic Holy Days Mecca). A public holiday.
The Islamic calendar is lunar, and shorter
than the Western solar calendar, beginning 10 For details of Pakistan’s major urs celebrations
to 11 days earlier in each solar year. Modern (the death anniversaries of certain saints), see
astronomy notwithstanding, religious officials regional chapters. It’s always best to confirm
have formal authority to declare the beginning urs dates with the PTDC, as exact dates of
of each lunar month, based on sightings of the most of these commemorations vary annually
moon’s first crescent. Future holy days can be according to sightings of the new moon.
estimated, but are in doubt by a few days until
the start of that month, so it’s very important FOOD
to note that the dates given here are only ap- Pakistan has a diverse array of places to eat,
proximate. They normally run from sunset from earthy street stalls that whip up home-
to the next sunset. We strongly recommend grown snacks, to fancy multicuisine restaurants
you consult tourist offices for exact dates at with mood music and swish service. For an
the time of your visit, as they may well have overview of what’s on offer, read the Food &
changed from the dates we were given at the Drink chapter (p58) as well as the Eating sec-
time of writing. tions of regional chapters. Some eateries are
As a result of differences in formal moon open throughout the day while others only open
sightings, holy days may be celebrated on dif- for lunch and/or dinner – details are provided
ferent days by different parts of the country in the regional chapters. Note that virtually all
and by Sunnis and Shiites, which has led to restaurants close from sunrise to sunset during
sectarian tension. Ramazan – see the boxed text, p61.
Ashura (19 January 2008, 7 January 2009, 27 December
2010, 16 December 2011) Ninth and 10th day of the month GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
of Muharram. Shiites begin 40 days of mourning the death Homosexuality is against the law in Pakistan,
of Hussain at Karbala, Iraq. In trance-like processions, and penalties are theoretically harsh, includ-
sometimes led by a riderless white horse, men and boys ing jail terms. Although the laws are appar-
pound their chests and chant the names of those killed at ently not strictly enforced, local gays and
Karbala. Some practise zuljinnah, flailing their backs with lesbians keep a very low profile. You may see
blade-tipped chains. Sectarian tension can be high, and Pakistani men holding hands in public but
visitors are not particularly welcome in Shiite villages. this is a common and accepted expression of
Chhelum (26 March 2008, 15 March 2009, 4 March 2010) nonsexual friendship.
Often has similar but smaller processions than those held Like heterosexual foreign couples visiting
during Ashura. Pakistan, gay and lesbian travellers should also
Eid-Milad-un-Nabi (20 March 2008, 9 March 2009, respect local sensibilities by refraining from
26 February 2010, 15 February 2011) Celebration of the public displays of affection.
Prophet’s birthday; some businesses may be closed, as it’s Greater tolerance exists in Chinese cities,
a public holiday. but the countryside remains conservative.
DIRECTORY 372 D I R E C T O R Y • • H o l i d a y s lonelyplanet.com
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Homosexuality is illegal in Pakistan (see Generically, Chinese money is called ren-
p371 for more information). minbi (RMB) or ‘people’s money’. The formal
unit is the yuan (Y), divided into 10 jiao or
MAPS 100 fen. But when talking prices, Chinese use
One of the most reputable country maps ‘counting words’: yuan is called kuai (Uyghurs
is Pakistan 1:1,500,000 published by Nelles say koi) and jiao is called mao (Uyghurs say
Verlag, which probably has the best coverage mo); fen is pronounced ‘fun’. Renminbi comes
of the KKH. It’s available at good city book- in paper notes of Y100, Y50, Y20, Y10, Y5, Y2
shops, including those in some top-end hotels. and Y1, and coins of Y1, five jiao, one jiao
The Survey of Pakistan sells regional and town and five fen.
maps from its office in Faizabad (see p73) or at The Pakistani rupee is a convertible cur-
bookshops in other cities. The information in rency and there’s little difference between offi-
some of these maps may be quite out of date cial and black-market rates. Kashgar’s Uyghur
and of limited practical use. black-marketeers buy Western banknotes at
Town and city maps from PTDC offices rates not much different from the banks.
are usually just overviews (sometimes not up There’s little to be gained if you use them and
to date), but can still be reasonably useful for always a risk of being short-changed.
general orientation. The rupee and renminbi fluctuate daily
Lion Art Press publishes decent maps of against major currencies; for exchange rates
various cities and regions including Lahore, see the inside front cover of this book.
Balochistan and Sindh (available at good
bookshops). Local maps and where to buy ATMs
them are mentioned in the regional chapters Automatic teller machines (ATMs; most 24
of this book. hours) can be found in hubs such as Lahore,
It’s imperative to possess good topo- Islamabad, Karachi and Quetta, and at a grow-
graphic maps for trekking and to know how ing number of smaller centres such as Multan
to use the maps. For advice on trekking maps and Bahawalpur. Major banks will accept
see p336. Cirrus, Maestro, MasterCard and Visa (but
not always all cards). However, you should
MONEY definitely not rely on ATMs as your sole
The unit of Pakistani money is the rupee (Rs), source of cash, especially if you plan to travel
divided into 100 paisa. Paper notes come in beyond the big cities. Another good reason
denominations of Rs 5000, Rs 1000, Rs 500, Rs to have a cash backup is in case ATMs are
100, Rs 50, Rs 20 and Rs 10, and there are Rs out of order or if you break or lose your card.
5, Rs 2 and Rs 1 coins. Very worn or tattered Note that some ATMs in smaller towns don’t
notes or those with pen scribbles on them accept foreign cards. Check with your bank
may sometimes be refused so it’s best not to before departing to confirm that your card
accept them in the first place. The Rs 5000, Rs can access international banking networks.
1000 and Rs 500 notes can be a headache (few Always keep the emergency lost-and-stolen
people seem to have change handy), so ask for numbers for your credit cards in a safe place,
smaller notes when you buy your rupees. separate from your plastic.
HAGGLING
Before any shopping spree it’s a good idea to casually browse through a few shops, just to get
a feel for prices and what’s on offer. Many shops (but not fixed-price emporiums and upmarket
stores) are open to bargaining. Don’t be afraid to haggle; as long as you don’t get obsessed with
driving a price into the ground, it’s taken in good spirit. Always remember how much a rupee is
worth in your home currency to put things in perspective. If you feel you are being unreasonably
overcharged, simply look elsewhere.
The key is to start with a bit of small talk – don’t show too much interest in the item you’re
dying to have. Casually ask the vendor’s price for various items, including your favourite. Roll
your eyes, shake your head and sigh deeply a few times before taking the plunge by offering
about half the asking price (this is usually completely unacceptable to the vendor but it works
as a good starting point to haggle for a happy compromise). The shopkeeper will probably look
frightfully aghast, insist that your offer is way below the cost price and then, with deliberate
reluctance, inevitably proceed to make you another offer. You’re now on the road to negotia-
tion. A tip: many ‘final prices’ tumble if you proceed to leave the shop, casually saying that you’ll
‘think about it’.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • P h o t o g r a p h y 375
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Travellers Cheques Film & Processing
Travellers cheques don’t seem to be as widely International-brand colour print film and
accepted as major foreign currency notes, processing are available in all cities and
especially beyond the larger cities. They most of the larger towns. Colour slide film
can even present a bit of a hassle at big city is usually available in larger cities, but only
banks, with branches often redirecting cus- a few outlets in major centres can actually
tomers to their head office. process it.
Banks mainly accept major brand trav- Always check use-by dates and ensure you
ellers cheques, with US cheques most are handed a sealed packet of film that has
widely accepted. Note that many banks not been sitting in a glass cabinet exposed to
demand to see original purchase receipts sunshine for the last few months: heat and
for your cheques before agreeing to change humidity can play havoc with film even if it
them, so keep these handy. Unless you’re isn’t past the use-by date. It’s best to only buy
cashing their brand of travellers cheques, film from reputable shops – and preferably
foreign banks usually nail you with film that has been refrigerated.
high commissions.
You will need to have your travel- Restrictions & Etiquette
lers cheque purchase receipts and the lost Prohibited subjects include military sites, air-
cheques’ serial numbers to replace lost or ports, train stations and bridges. Some places
stolen cheques – always carry the receipts, of worship may not allow photography – if
serial numbers and other important details you are unsure, ask. To some Muslims, es-
in a separate (safe) place from the cheques. pecially in rural areas, it’s an insult to photo-
Call directory inquiries on %17 to find graph a woman without permission, and if a
the Amex, Citibank or other relevant office male family member is nearby it can create a
nearest to you. tense situation. This may even apply if you’re
shooting a mountain and a woman happens to
be in a field in the foreground. It’s advisable to
CHINA
seek permission if you think there potentially
You can cash cheques at the larger banks; could be a problem. Women photographers
eg Bank of China or CITIC Industrial are often permitted more access than men if
Bank. Although most hotels in China will they’ve established some rapport.
cash cheques for guests, this cannot be People you take photos of in Pakistan may
counted on in Kashgar. The exchange rate request a copy and it’s kind to do so. If you
for cheques is generally higher (around 2%) don’t intend to send the photo, it’s better not
than cash. to promise that you will in the first place.
PHOTOGRAPHY POST
For top tips and techniques on travel pho- International post is generally reliable but has
tography, have a look at Lonely Planet’s occasionally been known to take up to one
travel photography guides, including Travel month to arrive at its destination, especially
Photography, Landscape Travel Photography when sent from remote places. To eliminate
and People Travel Photography. the risk of stamp theft, it’s best to have letters
franked in front of you.
Digital For packages (other than printed mat-
Memory cards for digital cameras are avail- ter) there’s usually a man sitting outside big
able from photographic shops in most large post offices who’ll sew up parcels in cheap
cities. Be aware that the quality of memory linen, on the spot, for a nominal fee. The
cards is variable – some do not carry the post office will have the necessary customs
advertised amount of data. It’s a good idea declaration forms.
to regularly back up your memory card to Books or printed matter can be sent by
CD (many internet cafés offer this service bookpost, which is cheaper than parcel post,
at a nominal charge). A number of photo- but don’t forget to write clearly ‘Printed
graphic stores will make prints from digital Material Only’ on the cover. In addition,
photographs for approximately the standard you have to ensure the package can be
print-and-processing charge. opened for inspection, or that it is wrapped
DIRECTORY 376 D I R E C T O R Y • • S h o p p i n g lonelyplanet.com
with the two ends exposed so the contents outskirts of Peshawar and at Landi Kotal on
are visible. the Khyber Pass, although you’re more likely
To give an idea of the cost of sending par- to find electronic items and cosmetics than
cels by air: to Australia is Rs 890 per kilogram fine traditional shawls or walnut furniture.
then Rs 535 for every additional kilo; to the Wherever you go in Pakistan you’ll almost
UK is Rs 1000 per kilogram then Rs 555 for always find dealers in Persian-style pile rugs
every additional kilo; and for France it’s Rs and kilims (flat-weave tribal carpets). As
1065 per kilogram then Rs 310 for each addi- well as the local products, many wonderful
tional kilogram. There’s also an urgent service old pieces can be found from Afghanistan,
that costs considerably more. Couriers in the Iran, China and Central Asia. Peshawar and
larger cities, such as DHL, are more expensive Quetta are some of the best places to buy
but delivery is quicker (around three days). good-value carpets in Pakistan. In Kashgar
For updates on postal information, click on you can find Central Asian and Chinese rugs
Pakistan Post (www.pakpost.gov.pk). in abundance.
Keep your eyes peeled for sublime textile
Poste Restante and embroidery work in a stunning range
International poste restante services are fairly of colours and designs that differ from re-
dependable. Ask senders to address letters gion to region. Some incorporate exquisite
to you with your surname in capital letters mirrorwork on caps, shawls and other attire.
and underlined, followed by Poste Restante, Bold block-print and tie-dye textiles are also
GPO, and the address of the city or town. available. Shawls are a particularly popular
Many ‘lost’ letters are simply misfiled under buy and make sensational gifts – they’re
given (first) names, so always check under reasonably light to carry (depending on
both your names. Ask senders to provide a the fabric) and can also be innovatively
return address, just in case you don’t col- used as wall hangings, curtains and throws
lect your mail. You’ll probably be asked to over furniture.
present your passport before claiming letters Other tempting items for sale include pot-
from post restante counters. tery, leatherware (including some gorgeous
If you’re getting a parcel posted to you traditional footwear and contemporary
from overseas, make sure you ask the sender jackets), woodwork and metalwork (the best
to clearly write ‘Gift Parcel’ on the package/ pieces are usually found in the bazaars of a
envelope or else you’ll have to pay tax before city’s or town’s old quarters).
claiming it. It’s best to have any parcels sent Bazaars are a great place to hunt down
to you by registered post. good-value shalwar kameez, the traditional
long-tunic-and-trouser combinations worn
SHOPPING by men and women. You can buy them off
Although Pakistan doesn’t match India on the shelf or have one tailor-made in just a
the handicraft front, you can still find some few days. Another popular buy is the chador
fascinating pieces in the country’s many vi- (a lightweight woollen blanket), which comes
brant bazaars and city emporiums. Read indi- in handy as a shawl, blanket, pillow or even
vidual chapters for regional shopping details. curtain. Resham (silk) can be a bargain in the
The top-end hotels often sell high-quality bazaars of the NA.
handicrafts, but they don’t come cheap. Jewellery is abundant in Pakistan and ranges
Particularly recommended bazaars in- from chunky tribal-influenced silver pieces to
clude those in Peshawar (Old City), Lahore intricately crafted gold items and enamelled
(Anarkali), Rawalpindi (Rajah), Karachi jewellery. In the more touristy areas, be careful
(Empress Market) and of course Kashgar’s of private dealers in gemstones and jewellery,
Sunday Market. In addition to the famous as well as artefacts such as coins; many are fake
Sunday Market, Kashgar has the atmospheric and/or ridiculously overpriced.
Khazkhan Bazaar where every day you can See p367 for information about exporting
buy Aladdin lamps, semiprecious stones, antiquities.
Central Asian carpets and much, much
more. Smaller bazaars, found throughout SOLO TRAVELLERS
the country, are also worth an unhurried Pakistan attracts a considerable number of
wander. There are smugglers’ bazaars on the solo visitors. If you’d like to occasionally break
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • Te l e p h o n e 377
DIRECTORY
the solo creed and hang out with other trav- range ones) incur a three-minute minimum
ellers, places such as along the KKH, in the for interstate and/or international calls.
Kalasha valleys, and Lahore and Peshawar For mobile phone users, competitively
are especially good. The popular traveller priced Pakistani prepaid SIM cards are widely
hotels can be useful spots to find people to available, with ‘starter pack’ offers from as
travel with, swap stories and gather handy little as Rs 200.
up-to-the-minute travel tips. Those keen To make a call out of Pakistan or China,
to hook up with others can also try adver- the international access code is 00. To call in
tising on Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum from abroad, dial your country’s international
(http://thorntree. lonelyplanet.com). access code, the country code for Pakistan (92)
Personal security worries (a predomi- or China (86), the area code (minus the first
nant concern of many first-time travellers to zero) and the local number.
Pakistan) will dissipate swiftly as you meet
and talk to the locals. Admittedly this is often Phonecards
easier for men in many areas, especially off the Phonecards are widely available, reliable and
beaten track. For more information specific easy to use, but not all PCO booths (or top-
to women travellers see p379. end hotels) will let you use them (or may
If you’re looking to cut costs, you’ll save charge a fee for doing so). You can buy phone-
money if you share taxis, tours and accommo- cards from most supermarkets, PCO booths
dation. In terms of accommodation, single- and general stores; they usually come in Rs
room rates are often not much lower than rates 150, Rs 250, Rs 500 and Rs 1000 denomina-
for a double; quite a few midrange and top-end tions. Many cards have an expiry date that
establishments don’t even have single tariffs, in- commences from the date of first use (most
stead charging a flat double rate (try to bargain are valid for three months thereafter).
this down by insisting that as you’re by your-
self, you should be charged accordingly). There TIME
is usually a discounted single price in budget Pakistan is covered by a single time zone
hotels, many of which also have dormitories (GMT plus five hours). All of China officially
where you pay on an economical per-bed basis. runs on Beijing time (GMT plus eight hours),
This can be a substantial saving but the state though out in Kashgar and Tashkurgan,
of the bedding and general cleanliness of some 3500km away, people set their clocks and
rock-bottom places can be challenging for all watches on (unofficial) ‘Xinjiang time’, two
but the most pecuniarily minded. Some lodg- hours earlier. But most Chinese bureaucrats
ings have books where guests can write down think in Beijing time, so you must keep track
their experiences, which can be informative and of both. Neither China nor Pakistan has
entertaining. But no matter how friendly and Daylight Savings Time (DST).
safe a place may appear on the surface, there See the world time zones map, p430–1.
may be locals or fellow tourists who view solo
travellers as an easy target for theft etc. There’s TOILETS
no need to be paranoid but, like anywhere else Decent public toilets are few and far between
in the world, it’s wise to never completely drop in Pakistan and Xinjiang – you’re most likely
your guard in unfamiliar surroundings. to find them at major tourist sites (museums
etc) and at mid- and upper-range restaurants.
TELEPHONE If you’re desperate, you can discreetly pop
STD (interstate) calls in Pakistan are half- into the sparkling-clean restrooms found in
price after 6pm and even cheaper (a quarter the foyer area of top-end hotels.
of the normal price) after 9.30pm. There are All top-end and most midrange hotels have
no cheap times for international calls. Most sit-down flush toilets with toilet paper sup-
of Pakistan has International Direct Dialling plied. Some midrange and many budget hotels
(IDD) so international calls are delightfully have a choice of squat or sit-down toilets.
quick and charges are usually by the minute. At the real rock-bottom places (especially in
Calls can be made from government exchanges remote villages) you often find bucket-flushed
or at one of the numerous privately run public squats. Toilet paper (and soap) is rarely pro-
call offices (PCOs). Many operate round-the- vided at budget places. Some budget hotels
clock. Some hotels (predominantly upper- have one or two rooms with sit-down toilets
DIRECTORY 378 D I R E C T O R Y • • T o u r i s t I n f o r m a t i o n lonelyplanet.com
but these are sometimes missing the actual stacles. In addition, hiring a private car with
seat. In this case it’s usually better to opt for driver will make moving around a great deal
a room with a squat toilet, as it’s a more com- easier. Always try to book ground-floor hotel
fortable and hygienic option. rooms, and if you use crutches, bring along
When it comes to toilet etiquette, it’s cus- spare rubber caps for the tips as they can
tomary to use your left hand and water, not wear down quickly.
toilet paper. Hence the strategically placed Recommended organisations that may
tap and small plastic jug available in most proffer further advice include the Royal
budget and midrange hotel and restaurant Association for Disability & Rehabilitation (RADAR;
bathrooms. If you can’t get used to the local %020-7250 3222; www.radar.org.uk; 12 City Forum, 250
method bring your own toilet paper, which is City Rd, London EC1V 8AF, UK) and Mobility International
widely available. USA (MIUSA; %541-3431284; www.miusa.org; Suite 343,
132 E, Broadway, Eugene, OR 97401, USA). There are
TOURIST INFORMATION also some commendable websites such as
Pakistan www.access-able.com.
Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC;
www.tourism.gov.pk) operates a string of hotels VISAS
and maintains tourist information centres You must obtain a visa before arriving in
in major cities and towns, many of which are either Pakistan or China.
very helpful with disseminating information, Be aware that in Pakistan, police jurisdic-
booking accommodation, arranging car hire tions in border areas and other sensitive spots –
and more. Others are of limited assistance. eg Cholistan, the Tribal Areas of the NWFP,
Details of PTDC offices are presented in the Chitral, Swat Kohistan and Azad Jammu &
Information sections of relevant regional Kashmir – all have additional registration and
chapters, along with any details of provincial permit regulations; see the regional chapters
tourist information departments. for details. No special permits are needed for
continuing along the KKH to Tashkurgan
China and Kashgar. For information about permit
China International Travel Service (CITS; Beijing %010- requirements for further travel in China see
66011122; 103 Fuxing Mennei; Kashgar %0998-2825390; 2nd Lonely Planet’s China guide.
fl, 93 Seman Lu, beside Chini Bagh Hotel), called CITS Registration (at a Foreigners’ Registration
lüxingshe in Chinese, is the original state Office, or FRO; see regional chapters for ad-
travel bureau for non-Chinese group tourists. dresses) in Pakistan currently only applies
In Kashgar it serves mainly as a travel agency to foreigners of Indian descent and nation-
for booking tours but some staff can be very als of 16 countries. These 16 countries are
helpful with general inquiries. Algeria, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Iraq,
Israel, Libya, Nigeria, Palestinian Territories,
TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES Serbia, Somalia, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Tanzania,
Travel in Pakistan can present some verita- Uganda and Yemen. If you stay in the NA for
ble challenges for a physically handicapped more than 10 days you’re supposed to register
person. The rigours of bus and train travel, at an FRO (locations are mentioned in the
the crush of humanity in urban centres and Karakoram Highway chapter). If you’re not
the lack of decent (where they exist) foot- staying at a hotel anywhere in the country (eg
paths in many places can pose real hazards. you’re staying at a private residence instead),
On top of that, there are only a sprinkling it’s not a bad idea to register so your wherea-
of wheelchair-accessible hotels (mostly bouts are on record.
top end), restaurants, buildings, transport
and other facilities. Many buildings have Pakistan
steep staircases and very few have ramps. Everybody needs a visa to enter Pakistan. The
However, travel in Pakistan is certainly pos- cost varies depending on your nationality, the
sible for those with an iron will, plenty of type of visa and possibly where you apply.
stamina and the willingness to constantly Nationals of most countries are issued a
adapt to whatever hurdle presents itself. single-entry tourist visa that enables entry up
Travelling with an able-bodied companion to six months from the date of issue, but you
can help immensely to overcome these ob- can only actually stay for a maximum of three
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • V o l u n t e e r i n g 379
DIRECTORY
months from the date of entry. This visa costs Visas are fairly easy to get from PRC em-
A$70 for Australians and UK£50 for British bassies or consulates including the embassy
citizens. Double and multiple-entry tourist in Pakistan. Fees depend on nationality and
visas may also be possible – inquire with the where you apply; pricier multiple-entry and
Pakistan mission in your home country. long-stay visas are available. In your applica-
Tourist visas in most countries should be tion you must identify entry/exit points, and
applied for about two (three to be safe) weeks advise of your itinerary and means of trans-
in advance of the intended travelling date, but port, although you can deviate from these as
it pays to double-check in case a longer time much as you like.
is recommended by your country’s Pakistani
embassy. Note that visas for journalists may VISA EXTENSIONS OR REPLACEMENTS
take more time to process. For details about With a China visa you can get at least one 15-
business visas and other possible visa op- day extension after arrival, at the Foreign Affairs
tions inquire at the Pakistan embassy in your section of any Public Security Bureau (PSB). In
home country. Kashgar, this office (called the Exit & Entry
A number of travellers have reported that Administration Service) is on Yunmulakexia
‘Not Valid for Cantt Area’ (or something Lu. Price depends on nationality.
similar) was stamped next to their Pakistani
visa, which resulted in them being denied ac- VOLUNTEERING
commodation in certain parts of some cities If you are keen to lend a hand as a volunteer,
(eg some hotels in Rawalpindi have refused the organisation Ethical Volunteering (www.ethical
to accept tourists if their passport had this volunteering.org) offers some excellent guidelines
stamp). We were told by a Pakistan mission for selecting an ethical agency. Keep in mind
that this stamp is supposed to appear next to that charities and NGOs usually prefer vol-
all tourist visas (though this doesn’t always unteers who apply in advance and are pre-
seem to be the case in reality) and if applicants pared to commit for more than just a couple
didn’t want the stamp they should request this of weeks.
on their visa application form (omission is not Surf the Web for current volunteering
guaranteed, however). possibilities in Pakistan – good places to
start include:
VISA EXTENSIONS Action Without Borders (www.idealist.org)
Three-month visa extensions are possible in Co-ordinating Committee for International
Pakistan itself and cost about the same as in Voluntary Service (CCIVS; www.unesco.org/ccivs)
your home country (usually payable in the Global Volunteers (www.globalvolunteers.org)
rupee equivalent). For details (including which Voluntary Service Overseas (VSO; www.vso.org.uk)
Pakistani cities can issue visa extensions) Working Abroad (www.workingabroad.com)
contact the Regional Passport Office (Map ppp74-5; World Volunteer Web (www.worldvolunteerweb.org)
%051-9260355; Peshawar Chowk G-8/1, Peshawar Mor, INT Worldwide Volunteering (www.worldwidevolunteering
Centre) in Islamabad. Passports are accepted .org.uk)
for processing from 2pm to 3pm Monday to World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF; www.wwfpak.org)
Thursday and Saturday, and 11am to 11.40am
on Friday. They’re available for collection WOMEN TRAVELLERS
from 9am to noon Monday to Thursday and Over recent years, Pakistan has been attract-
Saturday, and 9am to 11am on Friday. ing an escalating number of female travellers,
including those doing it solo. Generally speak-
China ing, the country is perfectly safe for women
Everyone needs a visa to enter the PRC; you and the only thing you’re likely to encounter
cannot get one at the border with Pakistan. A is incessant staring. If you don’t think you’re
normal tourist (‘L’) visa allows you to enter cut out for the constant scrutiny then you may
China up to three months from the date of feel more at ease travelling with company.
issue, and stay for 30 days from the date of It’s important to remember that in con-
entry. With it you can visit any open city or servative Muslim families the female members
region, and while in China you can extend usually stay out of sight of other men, and this
your visa and get travel permits for some is one reason why foreign women, especially
restricted areas. those on their own, are largely regarded as an
DIRECTORY 380 D I R E C T O R Y • • W o m e n T r a v e l l e r s lonelyplanet.com
oddity and may be viewed with a mixture of dentally’ bumped into or followed in crowded
curiosity, astonishment and disdain. areas. A woman travelling with a male partner
The more conservative Muslim men mini- is less likely to encounter these things but is
mise direct contact with women beyond their not immune from them. Respect for local
immediate family, especially out of the major culture, common sense and appropriate dress
cities. So if you’re travelling with a male com- (see opposite) play a paramount role in stay-
panion, any questions you ask may well be ing safe. General safety tips include making
answered to him – not out of contempt but as it a point to arrive in towns before dark and,
a mark of respect. On the flip side, you’ll prob- as elsewhere in the world, to avoid walking
ably also come across local men who are more alone in isolated areas or late at night. Remote
than happy to interact with a foreign woman, regions and some tribal areas of Pakistan are
with no other motive than to be helpful and best explored with a male companion, and
hospitable; some – especially in the tourist only if those areas are deemed safe by local
trade – do so as a matter of course. authorities. Women are advised against trek-
More-liberal attitudes abound in the larger king alone (see Women Trekkers, p339).
centres such as Karachi and Lahore, although Getting ogled at is something you’ll just
this doesn’t give you the green light to traipse have to get used to. It’s best to avoid returning
around in shorts and singlet tops. In the tradi- male stares as this may be considered a come-
tionally conservative rural, non-Ismaili areas, on; dark glasses can help. If you’re travelling
most women feel more comfortable travelling with a male partner, a number of locals will
with others. In these conservative regions, assume he is your husband and may be disap-
extra-careful attention should be paid to dress proving if you state otherwise. To avoid a sour
code – for instance, it may be offensive in reception, sometimes it’s more prudent not to
some areas not to cover your head. A good reveal that you’re not married.
way of ascertaining when exactly head cover is Some solo female travellers ward off un-
required is if you see few (if any) local women wanted male company by wearing a pseudo
in the public domain. The key is always to wedding ring and announcing early in the
have a scarf handy – no matter where you are – conversation that they are married or engaged
and to use it whenever in doubt. (regardless of whether they actually are or not).
Being a woman has some glowing ad- This can be an effective way of keeping conver-
vantages. Women can usually queue-jump sations ‘lust-free’. If you get the feeling that he’s
without consequence, avail of ladies-only com- still encroaching on your space, a firm request
partments on trains and sit in ‘family’ sections to stay away is usually enough to take control of
of restaurants. Unaccompanied women are the situation, particularly if it’s loud enough to
expected to sit at the front of a bus; men will catch the attention of passers-by. Alternatively,
normally vacate these seats for women and the silent treatment (not responding to ques-
you’re perfectly justified to kick up a fuss if tions at all) can be a remarkably good way of
they don’t. The bad news is that if these seats getting rid of unwanted male company.
are already full of women, the bus may pos- Women travellers should take heart that
sibly not even stop for you. If you’re travel- the risks of travelling in Pakistan are, so far,
ling with a man, he might be allowed up front less than in many other countries, including
too, provided he avoids sitting next to a local the West. Essentially, it’s a matter of striking
woman. When invited to a family home, male a balance in the way you interact with men
guests are generally restricted to a certain area so that your interest in his job, village, family
(such as the lounge) whereas women get to etc isn’t misinterpreted. Ways of achieving
join female family members and children in this include adhering to the local practice of
the vibrant ‘heart’ of the household. not shaking hands or making any other body
contact with a new male friend, and keeping
Staying Safe direct eye contact to a minimum. Similarly,
Harassment towards foreign female travellers getting involved in inane conversations can
in Pakistan is rare – partly attributable to the sometimes be misconstrued as a sign of
tenets of Islam regarding women and visitors – sexual interest.
but it does occasionally happen. There have Ultimately, you’re going to have to trust
been a few reports of groping, lewd comments, your own judgment and instincts, as there isn’t
provocative gestures, jeering and getting ‘acci- a blanket rule that applies to one and all.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • W o m e n T r a v e l l e r s 381
DIRECTORY
What to Wear when you need to cover your head and chest
You should always bear in mind that Pakistan (eg at a mosque, in a crowded bazaar or in
is, on the whole, a conservative society and conservative company). Not only is the shal-
you’re going to win much more respect (and war kameez considered as respectable attire,
deflect potential harassment) if you act and it’s also comfortable and practical and comes
dress appropriately. The less flesh you flash, in a glorious range of attractive fabrics and
the better. Steer clear of body-hugging cloth- designs to suit all budgets. A cotton shalwar
ing, sleeveless tops, shorts, miniskirts, see- kameez is surprisingly cool in hot weather and
through garments and, of course, the bra-less also offers excellent sun protection.
look. Baggy clothing is the way to go, as it Sunbaking in public view (apart from at
hides the shape of your body. If you’ve only hotel swimming pools) is not on and neither
got your hands, feet and head in view then is strutting around half-dressed on hotel bal-
you’re on the right track. conies or other areas in view of locals.
Wearing local dress, the shalwar kameez Although there are no sure-fire ways of
(traditional dresslike tunic and trouser combi- shielding yourself from sexual harassment,
nation) makes a very positive impression and hopefully the advice we have proffered here
is highly recommended. The dupatta (long will help make your journey through Pakistan
scarf) that is part of this outfit comes in handy memorable for all the right reasons.
382
Transport
AIR
CONTENTS Airports & Airlines
A number of major airlines serve Karachi,
Getting There & Away 382
Islamabad and Lahore. A few (from the
Entering the Countries 382
Middle East) fly to regional destinations such
Air 382
as Peshawar and Quetta.
Land 385
International airports:
Sea 388
TRANSPORT
China Southern Airlines (CZ/CSN; www.csair.com/en/) charged by the airlines. A few reliable agencies
Hub: Bayun International Airport, Guangzhou. are listed in this book’s regional chapters.
Emirates (EK/UAE; %021-5684500; www.emirates If you buy a non-PIA international ticket in
.com) Hub: Dubai International Airport. Pakistan, you can pay with credit card or cash.
Gulf Air (GF/GFA; %021-5682265; www.gulfairco.com) If you pay in cash rupees you must prove they
Hub: Bahrain International Airport. were bought with foreign currency by furnish-
Indian Airlines (IC/IAC; %042-6360014; www.indian ing foreign-exchange receipts totalling the
-airlines.nic.in) Hub: Indira Gandhi International Airport, ticket price. You don’t get the receipts back.
New Delhi. Domestic and PIA international tickets don’t
Iran Air (IR/IRA; %021-516293; www.iranair.com) Hub: require receipts.
Tehran International Airport. International tickets bought in Pakistan
Kuwait Airways (KU/KAC; %021-5685754; www attract a foreign-travel tax and an interna-
.kuwait-airways.com) Hub: Kuwait International Airport. tional departure tax, plus a few smaller taxes.
TRANSPORT
Malaysia Airlines (MH/MAS; %021-5682629; www Always ask if these are included in any fare
.malaysiaairlines.com) Hub: Kuala Lumpur Airport. you’re quoted.
Pakistan International Airlines (PK/PIA; %021- After you’ve bought your ticket, it doesn’t
45794769; www.piac.com.pk) Hub: Jinnah International hurt to call the airline yourself and confirm
Karachi. that you’re booked on the flight.
Qatar Airways (QR/QTR; %111-310310; www.qatar
airways.com) Hub: Doha International Airport. Australia & New Zealand
Saudi Arabian Airlines (SV/SVA; %021-568213; www Flights from Auckland, Brisbane, Melbourne
.saudiairlines.com) Hub: Ar-Riyadh International Airport. and Sydney connect with PIA, Singapore
Shaheen Air International (NL/SAI; %111-808080; Airlines, Thai Airways or Malaysian Airlines
www.shaheenair.aero) Hub: Karachi International Airport. in Bangkok, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.
Singapore Airlines (SQ/SIA; %042-6307418; www Return fares start at A$2300 to/from
.singaporeair.com) Hub: Changi International Airport, Islamabad/Lahore. Flying to Kashgar to start
Singapore. the Karakoram Highway (KKH) may involve
Thai Airways (TG/THA; %021-5660163; www.thaiair up to four connecting flights and add con-
.com) Hub: Bangkok Airport. siderably to the cost. For online bookings,
try www.travel.com.au in Australia and www
Tickets .goholidays.co.nz in New Zealand. Well-
Online ticket sales work well for trips with few known agencies for cheap fares with branches
or no connecting flights. However, travel agen- throughout Australia and New Zealand:
cies are a recommended resource for special Flight Centre Australia (%133 133; www.flightcentre
deals, sorting out tricky connections and or- .com.au); New Zealand (%0800 243 544; www.flight
ganising insurance and visas. Some of the more centre.co.nz)
reputable international online ticket sites: STA Travel Australia (%1300 733 035; www.statravel
Expedia (www.expedia.com) Cheap air fares and car hire. .com.au); New Zealand (%0508 782 872; www.statravel
Flight Centre International (www.flightcentre.com) .co.nz)
A discount agency with sites for Australia, Canada, New
Zealand, the UK and the US. Central Asia & China
Flights.com (www.tiss.com) An international site with PIA has weekly Almaty to Islamabad and
cheap fares and an easy-to-search database. Tashkent to Islamabad flights, and flies
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Use Travel regularly from Kabul to Karachi (Rs 17,290
Services to book multistop trips. one way), Islamabad (Rs 13,800), Lahore
STA Travel (www.statravel.com) The leader in student (Rs 13,800) and Peshawar (Rs 8000). Ariana
travel discounts (you don’t need to be a student), with Afghan Airlines may recommence weekly
links to worldwide STA sites. Kabul to Islamabad flights.
Travelocity (www.travelocity.com) This US site allows you From Hong Kong and Beijing, there
to search fares (in US dollars) to/from practically anywhere. are flights to Karachi and Islamabad (via
Bangkok) once a week with PIA and Air
BUYING TICKETS IN PAKISTAN China (US$1100 return). The only places you
Although Pakistani travel agencies don’t offer can fly to/from Kashgar are Islamabad and
exceptional international flight discounts, Ürümqi (Y1230), from where you can catch
prices are usually more competitive than those flights to several Chinese cities plus a few
384 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r lonelyplanet.com
Air International have regular connections East capitals. From Los Angeles, expect to pay
(mostly with Karachi) to/from Abu Dhabi, around US$2400 for a return to Islamabad/
Al Ain, Doha, Dubai, Muscat and Kuwait. Lahore. From New York, fares to Islamabad/
Recommended agencies: Lahore start from US$1600. From Vancouver,
Al-Rais Travels (www.alrais.com; Dubai) return fares to Islamabad/Lahore start from
Egypt Panorama Tours (%2-359 0200; www C$2700, and C$2300 from Toronto.
.eptours.com; Cairo) The Los Angeles Times, San Francisco
Orion-Tour (www.oriontour.com; Istanbul) Examiner, Chicago Tribune, New York Times
and Canada’s Globe & Mail and Vancouver
South Asia Sun have good weekly travel sections.
Flights to/from India have been abruptly San Francisco is the discount-ticket capital
halted in the past (when relations between of America, although some good deals can be
the two countries have deteriorated). Indian found with agencies in Los Angeles, New York
TRANSPORT
Airlines flies Delhi to Lahore once a week, and other big cities. Websites recommended
and PIA flies Delhi to Lahore (four times a for online bookings:
week) and Karachi (three times), and Mumbai www.cheaptickets.com
to Karachi once a week. PIA flies Colombo www.expedia.com
to Karachi, and PIA and Biman fly Dhaka www.itn.net
to Karachi at least five times a week between www.lowestfare.com
them. PIA flies Kathmandu to Karachi www.orbitz.com
twice a week. STIC Travels (www.stictravel.com; Delhi www.sta.com
% 11-23357468; Mumbai % 22-22181431) is a rec- www.travelocity.com
ommended agency with offices in dozens of
Indian cities. LAND
Bicycle
UK & Ireland At the time of research there was no problem
From the UK, the Middle East carriers such as with bringing a bicycle into or out of Pakistan,
Emirates and Gulf Air offer the most competi- although you’re expected to mention it on
tive fares. Return fares from London to either your visa application. It’s hard to get a de-
Karachi or Lahore start at around UK£600. finitive answer about bringing a bicycle into
PIA flies to Islamabad, Karachi and Lahore China. Chinese embassies often say foreign
several times a week and British Airways flies tourists are not allowed to bring bicycles into
to Islamabad three times a week. China and other sources say all you need is an
Discount air travel is big business in import permit. No cyclist has been prevented
London. Advertisements for travel agencies from bringing one in or out at Tashkurgan
appear in the travel pages of the weekend for years, and no permit is needed to cycle
broadsheet newspapers, in Time Out, the the Kashgar–Tashkurgan route. It’s wise
Evening Standard and in the free maga- to contact the embassies of both countries
zine TNT. A selection of recommended (see p370) to find out if any new rules have
travel agencies: been introduced.
Bridge the World (%0870-444 7474; www.b-t-w If you’re bringing your bike in by air, you
.co.uk) can dismantle it and put it in a bag or box,
Flightbookers (%0870-010 7000; www.ebookers.com) but you may also be able to wheel it to the
Flight Centre (%0870-499 0040; www.flightcentre check-in desk, where it should be treated as
.co.uk) baggage (you may have to remove the pedals
North-South Travel (%01245-608 291; www.north and turn the handlebars sideways). Always
southtravel.co.uk) Donates part of its profit to projects in check in advance with the specific airline in-
the developing world. volved (preferably before you buy a ticket)
STA Travel (%0871-2-300 040; www.statravel.co.uk) whether it will be treated as baggage or as
Trailfinders (%0845-058 5858; www.trailfinders.co.uk) (expensive) cargo.
Travel Bag (%0800-082 5000; www.travelbag.co.uk)
Border Crossings
USA & Canada The only legal overland crossing between
From the USA and Canada, most flights are India and Pakistan is at Wagah (Attari on
via London or Frankfurt and one of the Middle the India side), 30km east of Lahore. You can
386 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d lonelyplanet.com
cross by rail, road or foot. After the Grand the border you need to go to the office of the
Trunk Rd, the most famous road into Pakistan Khyber Political Agent to collect a gunman to
is the KKH, over the Khunjerab Pass from accompany you to the border. There is no cost
China. There is a busy road crossing to Kabul for this service, but the gunman will expect a
in Afghanistan beyond the Khyber Pass at tip (Rs 200). You have to organise your own
Torkham, and another at Chaman on the transport (about Rs 1800 for a 4WD to the
road to Kandahar. With an Afghan visa the border). On the Afghan side of the border,
crossing is pretty straightforward. Zahedan in turn right to go to Immigration (a large new
Iran is linked to Quetta via the border post at building – you can’t miss it). After this, taxi
Taftan (also called Kuh-i-Taftan; Mirjavé on drivers will assail you for business, but public
the Iran side). transport is another 500m walk from here.
Expect to pay around 300Afg (US$6) for a seat
Car & Motorcycle in a minibus to Kabul, double that for a seat
TRANSPORT
You can bring your own car, minibus or in a shared taxi. Get a copy of Lonely Planet’s
motorcycle into Pakistan duty-free, for up to Afghanistan and check the security situation
three months. You’ll need a carnet de passage – with your home country’s travel advisory serv-
essentially a passport for the vehicle – plus ice before entering the country.
registration papers, liability insurance and an
International Driving Permit (IDP). On entry, China
you may be required to sign a form stating The only overland route to/from China is the
that you won’t sell the vehicle while you’re in KKH, over the 4730m Khunjerab Pass. The
Pakistan. Spare parts and reliable mechanical pass is open to foreigners from 1 May to 15
expertise are best found in the major popula- November, unless snow closes it sooner.
tion centres. For more information on paper- Northern Areas Transportation Company
work, insurance and the availability of fuel and (Natco) and PTDC (Pakistan Tourism
spare parts, ask your automobile association Development Corporation) vehicles go to the
before leaving home. It’s also worth check- Chinese post at Tashkurgan (Rs 1500), with
ing the latest formalities with the relevant Chinese buses carrying on to Kashgar (Y62).
embassy in your home country. Bus travellers from China ride a Chinese bus
See p390 for more information about driv- from Kashgar (Y270) to the Pakistan cus-
ing in Pakistan. toms and immigration post at Afiyatabad
(New Sost). The trip takes two days, with an
Afghanistan overnight stop at Tashkurgan. You can also
At the time of research it was reasonably hire a minibus or 4WD from Afiyatabad to
straightforward to cross from Peshawar via Tashkurgan or from Kashgar to Afiyatabad.
the Khyber Pass to Jalalabad and Kabul. Also available is a 14-hour, nonstop bus
However, the crossing from Quetta via (Chinese and Natco) that runs between Gilgit
Chaman to Kandahar through haphazardly and Kashgar. This is of no interest to travellers
lawless countryside was considered highly wishing to see the best of Northern Pakistan,
dangerous and was positively discouraged by but it may be of use for the time-limited trav-
local authorities – a situation that was unlikely eller retracing their tracks.
to change in the foreseeable future. Customs and immigration at Afiyatabad is
Single-entry tourist visas (US$30) can be open daily from 8.30am to 11am for China-
obtained from the Afghanistan consulates in bound travellers and until 5pm for Pakistan-
Peshawar and Quetta and at the embassy in bound travellers. You must have a valid China
Islamabad (see p370 for further details). visa to enter China – they are not issued at the
In Peshawar, you need a permit to get to border. You must have a visa to enter Pakistan.
the border and you must also be accompanied For information about visas, see p378.
by an armed escort. For details about the fol-
lowing procedures see the Afghan consulate, India
p192. Go to the Home & Tribal Affairs Office The overland crossing between Pakistan and
at least 48 hours before departure, and present India is at Wagah (Attari on the India side),
your visa (plus photocopies of the data pages 30km east of Lahore. The border is open daily
of your passport and Pakistan and Afghanistan from 9.30am to 3.30pm (10am to 4pm India
visas) to get the free permit. On the way to time). Unfortunately the crossing remains
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d 387
hostage to Pakistan–India relations, so it’s and 1pm daily at the PTDC (%reservations 042-
not a bad idea to double-check that the bor- 5755940) office in Lahore (p101), but do check
der can still be easily crossed at the time of if it’s operating at the time of your visit, as
your visit. in the past it has been suspended whenever
Before crossing into India, you must clear India–Pakistan relations turned sour.
immigration and customs formalities at The bus departs from the PTDC office every
Wagah. At the immigration office your pass- Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday at
port will be checked for a valid Indian visa, 6am (but you must report an irksome two
and then you’ll be directed to the nearby cus- hours prior to departure). A ticket costs Rs
toms section where the contents of your bags 1500 and the journey to Delhi takes about 12
will be examined. Be warned that any drugs hours (you’re required to go through customs
found will be seized and you’ll face the pen- and immigration formalities at the border as
alties of illegal possession (p369). The entire described earlier in this chapter). The luggage
TRANSPORT
immigration and customs procedure usually limit is 20kg (each kilogram after that costs an
takes about 45 minutes, sometimes longer additional Rs 60).
if there’s a crowd. Once you clear customs There are local buses that travel to the bor-
you’re given the green light to walk across der (Wagah) from Lahore. To get to the bor-
100m of neutral territory into India. If you der from Lahore’s Regal Chowk (The Mall),
have a lot of baggage, there are porters to lug catch bus 3 (Rs 4) to the main train station and
your load (around Rs 50). from there take bus 4 (Rs 12) to the border (be
You can drive your own vehicle across with warned that not all number 4 buses take you
a valid carnet. If you’re catching the direct all the way to the border, so make sure you
Lahore to Delhi bus or the train, you’ll still ask the driver before hopping on).
have to go through the standard immigration,
customs and security procedures. TRAIN
It’s definitely worth coordinating your The Samjhota Express departs Lahore at
crossing with the theatrical closing-of-the- 8.35am twice a week (Tuesday and Friday)
border ceremony (Rs 10 to watch from the to India’s Attari (Rs 50) and then onwards to
Pakistani side) that takes place here before Delhi (economy/first class Rs 177/864, around
sunset each day – see p120. eight hours). Note that passengers have to go
There are a couple of small shops at Wagah through the same immigration and customs
selling cold drinks, tea and snacks. There’s formalities as anyone else crossing the border
also a little bookstall, Latif Old Book Shop (%042- (described earlier).
6582611), with a selection of (usually old) travel The alternative, and easier, journey is to
guides, novels and general-interest books. take a bus, taxi or train the 30km from Lahore
You may also be able to sell and exchange to Wagah, then to walk across the border to
books here. The amicable owner, Mr Latif, is Attari. If it’s the afternoon, check out the clos-
happy to answer any questions you may have ing-of-the-border ceremony on the India side
about Wagah. before making the 28km bus or taxi ride to
Few travellers stay overnight at Wagah, but if Amritsar, where there is a plethora of daily
you’re stranded here there’s a PTDC Motel (%042- train options to Delhi and beyond (see www
6583072; s/d Rs 600/800, s/d with air-con Rs 1000/1300; a), .indianrail.gov.in). This will allow travellers
which also allows camping on site (Rs 100 per to make the journey any day and avoid the
person including car parking and use of a bath- long delays on both sides of the border that
room). The hotel has a restaurant (mains Rs 65 the Samjhota Express experiences – at times
to Rs 350) that welcomes nonguests; it’s a con- more than three hours each side.
venient place to chill if you have time to kill –
a cup of tea is Rs 25. In the PTDC Motel is an Iran
information centre and a bank (open 11am to There is a fortnightly train service between
1pm) where you can change money. Zahedan and Quetta, via the border post at
Taftan (also called Kuh-i-Taftan; Mirjavé on
BUS the Iran side). At the time of writing, it de-
There’s a direct bus service (Rs 1500, 12 parted Zahedan on the 3rd and 17th of every
hours) between Lahore and Delhi. You can month at 10.30am, or Quetta on the 1st and
pre-book a ticket on this bus between 9am 15th of every month at 12.30pm. There is one
388 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r lonelyplanet.com
class and fare (Rs 650) and the trip takes 24 cost travellers as soon as they leave passport
to 27 hours. control. It can be tough changing travellers
Between Quetta and Taftan there are several cheques, so always have cash on hand; ex-
daily buses (Rs 350, 15 to 16 hours) – these change rates are generally better in Quetta.
are a considerably quicker (but somewhat less If you’re crossing from Pakistan to Iran late
comfortable) option than the train. Minibuses in the day or on Sunday, it’s probably best to
tend to leave early in the morning, travelling change money in Quetta.
in the heat of the day and requiring an over-
night stay in Taftan before crossing into Iran. SEA
Note that buses from Quetta to Taftan tend to At the time of writing there were no sched-
be overnight to avoid the heat of day, and by uled international passenger services to/from
arriving at the border in the morning there’s Pakistan apart from the haj ferries (for Muslim
plenty of time to get connections in Iran. pilgrims to Mecca).
TRANSPORT
At the check-in counter make sure you get and Citylinkers. Up north, Natco and sev-
tags for any hand luggage, as these need to eral private companies run buses between
be stamped by security later. Rawalpindi, Gilgit, Skardu and the China
Keep in mind that domestic carriers may border. Mashabrum, Silk Tours and K2 have
well add new routes, cancel existing routes more-comfortable coaches, at least as far
and/or change flight schedules and fares dur- as Aliabad (Hunza) and Skardu. Note that
ing the life of this book. Daewoo bus stations are separate from the
chaos of the local bus stands and are usually
BICYCLE easy to access. Although a little more expen-
The KKH from Islamabad to Kashgar via the sive, Daewoo buses are newer, safer, cleaner,
Khunjerab Pass is the Holy Grail for cycle and where possible, they use the quicker toll
tourers – a demanding and spectacular trip roads. Another bonus is that the ‘hostess’ on
for fit and well-prepared cyclists. See p392 and board provides a snack and drink.
TRANSPORT
the boxed text on p242 for further details. Then there are Pakistan’s rolling works of
Furious traffic and decidedly nutty drivers on art: chrome-sequinned vintage Bedford buses
the Grand Trunk Rd (Peshawar–Lahore) and and trucks, vividly painted with psychedelic
the National Hwy (Karachi–Lahore) make them designs, poetry, Quranic passages and/or
dangerous for cycling, but the gentle back roads technicolour landscapes, equipped with tinted
of the Potwar Plateau (Islamabad–Peshawar) windows, dangling chains and musical horns,
and the steeper roads through Murree and and decorated with mirrors, badges and flut-
the Margalla Hills (north of Islamabad) are ing. Though a photographer’s delight, they’re
more promising. For the adventurous, the perversely uncomfortable to ride in.
(extensively unsealed) road between Chitral Minibuses are another option, and Hi-
and Gilgit offers stunning views and friendly Ace and Coaster minibuses run on many
villages, though you’ll need to be self-sufficient regional and long-distance routes. They’re
on most nights. At the time of research, much faster and often a bit pricier than buses, al-
of the interior of Sindh and Balochistan was not though in a Hi-Ace your comfort is severely
deemed safe by local authorities for tourists on compromised by the cramped seating ar-
any form of transport. rangement (they squeeze four people into a
For information about equipment, see row of seats where there’s space for three)
p392. and the view of the scenery is limited – an
important factor in Chitral and the Northern
BUS & MINIBUS Areas. Minibuses wait in major bus stands or
Getting around Pakistan by bus isn’t always in specified areas in certain towns. Drivers
terribly comfortable but it’s undeniably cheap. will usually hang around until the bus is full
The road distances charts in this chapter (p390 before they depart.
and p393). show approximate road distances Common short-haul vehicles are small
between major cities; where there are rail Suzuki vans with two rows of seats and a
lines, the distances are roughly the same. The garish canopy slapped over the top, or larger
main corridor for both is Karachi to Peshawar, Toyota pick-ups – some with canopies that
via Multan, Lahore and Rawalpindi, with a double as a second level of seating! They’ll
branch from Sukkur to Quetta through the stop anywhere to pick you up or set you down,
Bolan Pass. and you pay only for the distance you go.
There are numerous bus companies and Views are nonexistent unless you’re on the
some towns have more than one bus depot, roof or hanging off the back! Don’t be put off
which can create a bit of confusion. Depots are paying a little extra for the privilege of a cab
inevitably chaotic and the best way to attract seat – it’s probably worth it.
help may just be to shout out your destina- Where mountain roads permit nothing
tion to one of the spruikers. You’ll be quickly else, passenger/cargo 4WDs (Jeeps and Land
ushered to an appropriate bus. The better Cruisers) serve remote villages. The smaller,
outfits, operating between the larger centres, made-in-Pakistan Jeeps have a monopoly on
will usually run to a timetable. the narrow mountain roads with active sliding
The most comfortable intercity trips areas and precipitous drop-offs. These vehi-
are in air-con buses with outfits including cles rarely run to set schedules and you can
Daewoo, New Khan Road Runners, Skyways hire them as a ‘special’ or by the seat.
390 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • C a r & M o t o r c y c l e lonelyplanet.com
Costs Self-Drive
Bus travel is very economical if not always Avis has cars for hire in Pakistan’s major cit-
comfortable. For example, the six-hour mini- ies, most often through Travel Walji’s. Details
TRANSPORT
bus trip from Gilgit to Skardu costs Rs 200; can be found in this book’s regional chapters.
the very nice air-con Daewoo express between Local companies may be a tad cheaper, but
Rawalpindi and Peshawar is only Rs 210. always check the small print carefully before
Whenever travelling by bus, it’s worth committing yourself.
flashing your student card – while you may You’ll need to show an IDP and leave a wad
get little more than a snarl, you could possibly of cash or a credit-card imprint as deposit.
score a discount on long-distance routes.
Car & Driver Hire
Reservations Private car hire gives you the flexibility to go
The plethora of private transport available where you want when you want. Try to get a
usually means you’ll have no trouble finding driver who speaks at least some English and is
a ride just by rocking up to the bus station. familiar with the places you intend visiting.
However, to ensure a seat on an early depar- There are numerous places that will rent a
ture, or a window seat for the best views, or car with driver and you should always shop
to secure a seat on one of the more salubri- around to bag the best deal. Regional chap-
ous air-con services that run to timetables, it ters contain details, but, as an example, in
pays to make a reservation. Usually there is Islamabad a Hi-Ace van with driver starts at
no booking fee. around Rs 1800 a day, plus Rs 9 per kilometre;
less for hires of more than seven days.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE In the north, 4WDs and Suzukis for hire nor-
Few foreign drivers bring their vehicles into mally have a separate stand; they are also found
Pakistan (for regulations, see p386), and self- around the bus station and filling stations.
Gilgit
Karachi
Khunjerab Pass
Lahore
Multan
Muzaffarabad
Peshawar
Quetta
Rawalpindi
Saidu Sharif
Skardu
Sukkur
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • H i t c h i n g 391
In touristed places like Hunza and Swat, 4WD comfortable) than taxis but be prepared to
drivers have formed cartels with fixed rates for cop a lungful of pollution from fume-belching
common routes. traffic. As with taxis, you should always fix a
Jeeps or Land Cruisers can be hired from fare before setting off. Motorcycle-rickshaws
the PTDC, and 4WDs are often available pri- are faster and brighter but are also uncom-
vately (ask at your hotel), although they may fortable. Two-wheeled, horse-drawn tongas
be difficult to find on short notice in summer. are slower and getting rarer, but are a more
At the time of writing, typical Land Cruiser scenic way to get around.
rates from the PTDC were about Rs 3000 per A bicycle can be a good way to explore
day including driver and diesel. Rates fluctu- smaller towns. For rental possibilities ask at
ate according to the price of fuel. your hotel or try bicycle-repair shops.
HITCHING TRAIN
TRANSPORT
Hitching is never entirely without risk in Pakistan has some 13,000km of tracks, and if
any country, and we don’t recommend it, you don’t like the thought of being wedged
especially for solo women. Travellers who into a careening minibus, you’ll enjoy the
hitch should be aware that they are taking a trains. On the downside, long-distance trains
small but potentially serious risk; it’s safer if are often crowded. If you’re catching one at
you travel with at least one other person and an intermediate point you can’t always be
inform someone of where you are planning to sure of a seat, even if you booked one. Long-
go. You should be aware that although some haul trains can run hours late to their later
drivers may take you on board purely for the destinations. For seat availability, e-ticketing,
company; others may do so in the belief that and further rail information, check out
they’ll receive some payment. www.pakr ail.com.
Trains are Express, Mail or Passenger – we
LOCAL TRANSPORT list the best options in the regional chapters of
Fixed-route, fixed-fare options in bigger cit- this book. The various classes that are avail-
ies include buses, minibuses and passenger able on different trains are also mentioned in
Suzukis. All are cheap and more often than the regional chapters.
not bursting with passengers. They’ll usu- Pakistan Railways publishes a handy Time
ally stop anywhere along the route for you. & Fare Table, for sale at most train stations and
Passenger Suzukis charge a token Rs 5 or Rs at some city bookshops, for Rs 25. Updated
8 for intracity routes. They may have a ‘con- twice a year, it’s good for route planning and
ductor’, but where they don’t, tap on the cab for current details about schedules and fares.
window or stomp on the floor to signal that Pakistan’s railway inquiries telephone number
you wish to stop. is %117.
City taxis may have meters but are invari- Food can usually be bought on the train
ably ‘broken’ so make sure you fix a price itself or from food stalls and roaming vendors
before you hop in. Some cities, such as Lahore at station stops. Bringing your own bottled
and Karachi, also have ‘City Radio Cabs’ or water is a good idea.
‘Metro Cabs’ (they’re usually based at the air- Railway officials advise against accepting
port). They’re a little more expensive than food or drink from strangers as there have
regular taxis but you’re assured of comfort been a few incidences of drugging (and subse-
and reliability. quent robberies) on trains. You’re also advised
Autorickshaws – snarling, three-wheeled, to padlock your bags to racks (especially if
two-stroke machines – are cheaper (but less you intend sleeping) and to keep your money
and important documents (eg passport) in a
well-concealed moneybelt.
SEGREGATED TRANSPORT
On most passenger transport, women (and Classes
often children) are seated separately from Long-distance runs have sleepers in 1st and
the men, usually near the driver. Foreign air-con class (which should ideally be booked
mixed couples may be asked to rearrange ahead, to a maximum of 14 and 30 days, re-
themselves accordingly. spectively). Some trains have economy seats
and berths. Women may book female-only
392 A L O N G T H E K K H • • B i c y c l e lonelyplanet.com
TRANSPORT
that kerosene is readily available (it should
be filtered before use) but not methylated Route Fare Duration
spirits (methyl alcohol). Rawalpindi–Gilgit Rs 650 15hr
Water supplies are vital, and each rider Afiyatabad–Tashkurgan Rs 1500 5hr
should be equipped to carry a minimum Tashkurgan–Kashgar Y63 8hr
of 3L.
For medium and short hops, the roads are
Safety & Security ruled by Hi-Ace minibuses. There are nu-
Stories of bike theft abound in China, so al- merous private operators who’ll stop almost
ways lock up and keep watch on your bike anywhere if waved down. Sample fares and
when it is on the roof rack of a bus. Pakistan estimated hours include the following:
is safer but bike thefts happen there too.
Rockfall hazard on the KKH and the Gilgit Route Fare Duration
to Skardu road rises sharply during rainy Gilgit–Skardu Rs 200 6hr
weather. Don’t ever cross a recent rockfall; Gilgit–Karimabad Rs 100 3hr
the road is probably littered with boulders, Karimabad–Passu Rs 35 1hr
with more to come. Go back and wait for the Karimabad–Afiyatabad Rs 90 2.5hr
mountainsides to settle. In Indus Kohistan
particularly, kids have been known to throw Schedules & Booking
stones and hurl rather large rocks from high Only long-distance buses, such as those from
vantage points at cyclists. This has become Rawalpindi to Gilgit, Gilgit to Skardu, and
so common, and the experience so nerve- Gilgit to Afiyatabad (New Sost), run on even
Rawalpindi ---
Abbottabad 110 ---
Besham 260 150 ---
Chilas 465 355 205 ---
Gilgit 573 446 340 135 ---
Karimabad 705 595 445 240 105 ---
Afiyatabad 795 685 535 330 195 90 ---
Khunjerab Pass 880 770 620 415 280 175 85 ---
Tashkurgan 1010 900 750 545 410 305 215 130 ---
Kashgar 1300 1190 1040 835 700 595 505 420 290 ---
Rawalpindi
Abbottabad
Besham
Chilas
Gilgit
Karimabad
Afiyatabad
Khunjerab Pass
Tashkurgan
Kashgar
394 A L O N G T H E K K H • • C a r & M o t o r c y c l e lonelyplanet.com
an approximation of a fixed timetable and hub in the region (see p329). From Ürümqi,
can be booked ahead, and then only by a few there are bus services to most cities in Xinjiang
days. Most other vehicles go when they’re and trains to Beijing (49 hours), Shanghai (51
full, so departures can be lengthy affairs, hours) and several other cities.
with drivers honking up and down in search
of passengers. KYRGYZSTAN
From at least June to September you can
CAR & MOTORCYCLE cross the 3752m Torugart Pass on a rough
Jeeps or Land Cruisers can be hired from road from Kashgar to Bishkek, and via the
the PTDC in Gilgit, the Kaghan Valley and Irkeshtam Pass from Kashgar to Osh. For
Rawalpindi; agencies in Kashgar; or privately details, see p329. Of course you must have
(ask at your hotel). They may be tough to find an onward visa (the closest place to get a
on short notice in summer. For information Kyrgyzstan visa is Delhi or Beijing). Chinese
TRANSPORT
on costs, see p390 and the Getting There & officials insist that tourists must also have
Away sections in regional chapters. a special Torugart permit (the Torugart
is formally a Class 2 or nontourist pass).
MOVING ON FROM KASHGAR Kashgar travel agencies or their Bishkek part-
There are many options for exploring the Silk ners can get these from Ürümqi with one or
Road province of Xinjiang and the rest of two weeks’ notice. No permit was necessary
China. These are comprehensively covered for crossing the Irkeshtam Pass at the time
in Lonely Planet’s China. of research.
Air TIBET
You can fly from Kashgar only to Ürümqi The road between Kashgar and Lhasa via
and Islamabad. Details can be found on p328. Ali requires a permit to travel and is heavily
Ürümqi has a few direct international connec- policed. China International Travel Service
tions including Almaty, Bishkek, Islamabad, (CITS) in Kashgar (see p324) can organise the
and Moscow via Novosibirsk, though these necessary permits and the vehicle to take you
services can be seasonal and it’s not uncom- to Ali as well as the vehicle (from Lhasa) that
mon for services to be suspended. will take you on to Lhasa. Between September
Ürümqi is linked with Beijing with sev- and June the cold is severe.
eral flights a day, and less frequently with An alternative route for more-independent
Hong Kong, Shanghai, Guangzhou (Canton), travel is via Golmud (Kashgar to Golmud
Chengdu and other Chinese cities. by bus or train and Golmud to Lhasa on a
CITS vehicle). For much more information
Land and advice, see the Karakoram Highway
There are road and rail links to Ürümqi, the chapter (p235) and Lonely Planet’s Tibet or
capital of Xinjiang and the major transport China guides.
395
Health
tions over the counter without a prescrip-
CONTENTS tion, but this is not recommended, as fake,
poorly stored or out-of-date drugs are com-
Before You Go 395 mon. It can also be difficult to find some
Insurance 395 newer drugs, particularly the latest antide-
Recommended Vaccinations 396 pressants, blood-pressure medication and
Medical Checklist 396 contraceptive pills.
Online Resources 397 Have your teeth checked before you travel,
Further Reading 397 and if you wear glasses take a spare pair and
In Transit 397 your prescription.
Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) 397
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 397 INSURANCE
In Pakistan 397 Even if you are healthy, don’t travel without
Availability of Health Care 397 health insurance, as accidents do happen.
Infectious Diseases 397 Declare any existing medical conditions you
Traveller’s Diarrhoea 400 have – the insurance company will check
Environmental Hazards 400 and will not cover you where a condition
Women’s Health 401 was undeclared. You may require extra
cover for adventure activities such as ski-
ing. If your health insurance doesn’t cover
Travellers tend to worry about contracting in-
HEALTH
you for medical expenses abroad, consider
fectious diseases in this part of the world, but getting extra insurance. If you’re uninsured,
infections are rarely a cause of serious illness keep in mind that emergency evacuation
or death in travellers. Pre-existing medical is expensive, with bills of over US$100,000
conditions such as heart disease, and acciden- being common.
tal injury (especially traffic accidents) account Find out in advance if your insurance plan
for most life-threatening problems. Becoming will make payments directly to providers or
ill in some way, however, is very common. reimburse you later for overseas health expen-
Fortunately, most travellers’ illnesses can ei- ditures. In Pakistan the doctors usually expect
ther be prevented with some common-sense payment in cash. You may prefer a policy
behaviour or treated easily with a well-stocked that pays doctors or hospitals directly rather
medical kit. than you having to pay on the spot and claim
The following advice is a general guide only later. If you have to claim, make sure you keep
and does not replace the advice of a doctor all documentation. Some policies ask you to
trained in travel medicine. call (reverse charges) a centre in your home
country, where an immediate assessment of headache are the most common side effects. An allergic
your problem is made. reaction comprising hives and swelling can occur up to 10
days after any of the three doses, but this reaction is rare.
RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS Meningitis Single injection. There are two types; the quad-
Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your rivalent vaccine gives two to three years’ protection, and the
best source of information; they stock all meningitis group C vaccine gives around 10 years’ protection.
available vaccines and can give specific rec- Recommended for long-term backpackers aged under 25.
ommendations for your trip. Doctors will take Rabies Three injections in all. A booster after one year will
into account factors like past vaccination his- then provide 10 years’ protection. Side effects are rare –
tory, the length of your trip, activities you may occasionally a headache and sore arm.
be undertaking and underlying conditions. Tuberculosis (TB) A complex issue. Adult long-term
Most vaccines don’t produce immunity travellers are usually recommended to have a TB skin test
until at least two weeks after they have been before and after travel, rather than vaccination. Only one
given, so visit a doctor four to eight weeks vaccine is given in a lifetime.
before departure. Ask your doctor for an
International Certificate of Vaccination Required Vaccinations
(known as the yellow booklet), which will The sole vaccine required by law is yellow
list all the vaccinations you’ve received. fever. Proof of vaccination will only be re-
The World Health Organization (WHO) quired if you’ve visited a country in the
recommends the following vaccinations for yellow-fever zone within six days prior to en-
travellers to the Indian subcontinent: tering Pakistan. If you’re travelling to Pakistan
Adult diphtheria and tetanus A single booster is from Africa or South America, check to see
recommended if you haven’t been vaccinated or boosted whether you require proof of vaccination
against these in the previous 10 years. Side effects include before leaving your home country.
a sore arm and fever.
MEDICAL CHECKLIST
HEALTH
Iodine tablets (unless you are pregnant or To prevent the development of DVT on
have a thyroid problem) to purify water long flights you should walk around the cabin,
Laxative, eg Coloxyl perform isometric compressions of the leg
Permethrin to impregnate clothing and muscles (ie contract the leg muscles while sit-
mosquito nets ting), drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol
Steroid cream for allergic/itchy rashes, eg and tobacco.
1% to 2% hydrocortisone
Sunscreen and hat JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS
Throat lozenges Common when crossing more than five time
Thrush (vaginal yeast infection) treat- zones, jet lag results in insomnia, fatigue, ma-
ment, eg Clotrimazole pessaries or Dif- laise or nausea. To avoid jet lag try drinking
lucan tablet plenty of fluids (nonalcoholic) and eating light
Ural or equivalent if prone to urinary meals. Upon arrival, seek exposure to natu-
tract infections ral sunlight and readjust your schedule (for
meals, sleep etc) as soon as possible.
ONLINE RESOURCES Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate
There’s a wealth of online travel-health ad- (Dramamine), promethazine (Phenergan)
vice. For further information, Lonely Planet and meclizine (Antivert, Bonine) are usually
(www|.lonelyplanet.com) is a good place to the first choice for treating motion sickness.
start. WHO (www.who.int/ith/) publishes a The main side effect is drowsiness. A herbal
superb book called International Travel & alternative is ginger, which may be eaten plain
Health, revised annually and available online or candied (a small piece will do) or taken in
at no cost. Another website of general interest tablet form (500 to 1000 milligrams).
is MD Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth
.com), which provides complete travel-health
IN PAKISTAN
HEALTH
recommendations for every country and is up-
dated daily. The Centers for Disease Control
and Prevention (www.cdc.gov) website also AVAILABILITY OF HEALTH CARE
has good general information. In general, medical facilities are not up to
international standards and serious cases are
FURTHER READING likely to be evacuated. Facilities are severely
Lonely Planet publishes Healthy Travel Asia limited outside the major cities and it can be
& India by Isabelle Young and Travelling with difficult to find reliable medical care in rural
Children by Cathy Lanigan, both of which areas. Your embassy and insurance company
contain useful health information. can be good contacts. Hospitals and clinics are
listed under Information in the major city sec-
tions of regional chapters in this book.
IN TRANSIT INFECTIOUS DISEASES
DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT) Dengue Fever
This condition occurs when blood clots form This mosquito-borne disease is becoming in-
in the legs during plane flights, chiefly be- creasingly problematic in the tropical world
cause of prolonged immobility. The longer (including southern parts of Pakistan), espe-
the flight, the greater the risk. Though most cially in cities. As there is no vaccine available
blood clots are reabsorbed uneventfully, some it can only be prevented by avoiding mosquito
may break off and travel through the blood bites. The mosquito that carries dengue bites
vessels to the lungs, where they may cause day and night, so use insect-avoidance meas-
life-threatening complications. ures at all times. Symptoms include high fever,
The chief symptom of DVT is swelling or severe headache and body ache (dengue was
pain in the foot, ankle, or calf, usually but not previously known as ‘breakbone fever’). Some
always on just one side. When a blood clot people develop a rash and experience diar-
travels to the lungs, it may cause chest pain rhoea. There is no specific treatment, just rest
and difficulty in breathing. Travellers with and paracetamol – do not take aspirin as it in-
any of these symptoms should immediately creases the likelihood of haemorrhaging. See a
seek medical attention. doctor to be diagnosed and monitored.
398 I N PA K I S TA N • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s lonelyplanet.com
Hepatitis A
A problem throughout the region, this food- DRINKING WATER
and water-borne virus infects the liver, caus- Never drink tap water
ing jaundice (yellow skin and eyes), nausea
and lethargy. There is no specific treatment Bottled water and soft drinks are gener-
for the disease; you just need to allow time ally safe – check the seal is intact at
for the liver to heal. It’s recommended that purchase
all travellers to Pakistan be vaccinated against Avoid ice
hepatitis A. Avoid fresh juices – they may have been
watered down
Hepatitis B
The only sexually transmitted disease that Boiling water is the most efficient
can be prevented by vaccination, hepatitis method of purifying it
B is spread by body fluids, including sexual The best chemical purifier is iodine. It
contact. In some parts of South Asia up to should not be used by pregnant women
20% of the population are carriers of hepatitis or those with thyroid problems.
B, and usually are unaware of this. The long- Water filters should also filter out
term consequences can include liver cancer viruses. Ensure your filter has a chemical
and cirrhosis. barrier such as iodine and a small pore
size, eg less than four microns.
Hepatitis E
Transmitted through contaminated food
and water, hepatitis E has similar symptoms Malaria
to hepatitis A but is far less common. It is For such a serious and potentially deadly dis-
a severe problem in pregnant women and ease, there is an enormous amount of mis-
HEALTH
can result in the death of both mother and information concerning malaria. For most
baby. There is currently no vaccine, and rural areas in Pakistan, the risk of contracting
prevention is by following safe eating and malaria far outweighs the risk of any tablet
drinking guidelines. side effects. Remember that malaria can be
fatal. Before you travel, you must seek medi-
HIV cal advice about the right medication and
This disease is spread via contaminated dosage for you.
body fluids. Avoid unsafe sex, unsterile nee- Malaria is caused by a parasite transmit-
dles (including in medical facilities) and tat- ted by the bite of an infected mosquito. The
toos. The prevalence of HIV in Pakistan is most important symptom of malaria is fever,
considered moderate. but general symptoms such as headache,
diarrhoea, cough or chills may also occur.
Japanese B Encephalitis Diagnosis can only be made by taking a
This viral disease is transmitted by mosqui- blood sample.
toes and is rare in travellers. Like most mos- Two strategies should be combined to
quito-borne diseases it is becoming a more prevent malaria – mosquito avoidance, and
common problem in affected countries. Most antimalarial medications. Most people who
cases occur in rural areas and vaccination is catch malaria are taking inadequate or no
recommended for travellers spending more antimalarial medication.
than one month outside of cities. There is no Travellers are advised to prevent mosquito
treatment, and a third of infected people will bites by taking these steps:
die while another third will suffer permanent Use a DEET-containing insect repel-
brain damage. lent on exposed skin. Wash it off at
night, as long as you are sleeping under
Leishmaniasis a mosquito net. Natural repellents like
This sandfly-borne parasite is very rare in citronella can be effective, but must be
travellers but common in the local population. applied more frequently than products
There are two forms of the disease – one that containing DEET.
only affects the skin (causing a chronic ulcer) Sleep under a mosquito net impregnated
and one that affects the internal organs. with permethrin
lonelyplanet.com I N PA K I S TA N • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s 399
HEALTH
heartburn, nausea and interference with the contracep- most parts of Pakistan.
tive pill. More serious side effects include ulceration of
the oesophagus – you can help prevent this by taking STDs
your daily tablet with a meal and a large glass of water, The most common sexually transmitted
and never lying down within half an hour of taking it. diseases in Pakistan include herpes, warts,
It must be taken for four weeks after leaving the risk syphilis, gonorrhoea and chlamydia. People
area. carrying these diseases often have no signs of
Malarone This new drug is a combination of Atovaquone infection. Condoms will prevent gonorrhoea
and Proguanil. Side effects are uncommon and mild, most and chlamydia but not warts or herpes. If
commonly nausea and headache. It is the best tablet for after a sexual encounter you develop any rash,
those on short trips to high-risk areas. It must be taken for lumps, discharge or pain when passing urine
one week after leaving the risk area. seek immediate medical attention. If you’ve
Artesunate Artesunate and its derivatives are not been sexually active while travelling have an
suitable as a preventive medication. They are useful treat- STD check on your return home.
ments under medical supervision.
Tuberculosis
A final option is to take no preventive medica- While TB is rare in travellers, those who have
tion but to have a supply of emergency medi- had significant contact with the population
cation should you develop the symptoms of (such as medical and aid workers and long-
malaria. This is less than ideal, and you’ll need term travellers) should take precautions.
to get to a good medical facility within 24 Vaccination is usually only given to children
hours of developing a fever. If you choose under the age of five, but adults at risk are
this option the most effective and safe treat- recommended to have pre- and post-travel TB
ment is Malarone (four tablets once daily for tests. Main symptoms are fever, cough, weight
three days). Other options include Mefloquine loss, night sweats and tiredness.
and Quinine but the side effects of these at
treatment doses make them less desirable. Typhoid
Fansidar is no longer recommended. Note This serious bacterial infection is spread
that malaria throughout South Asia is resist- via food and water. It gives headaches and a
ant to Chloroquine. high and slowly progressive fever, and may
400 I N PA K I S TA N • • T r a v e l l e r ’ s D i a r r h o e a lonelyplanet.com
helpful, eg if you have to go on a long bus is necessary; even 500m can help. Drug treat-
ride. Don’t take Loperamide if you have a ments should never be used to avoid descent
fever, or blood in your stools. Seek medical or to enable further ascent.
attention quickly if you do not respond to an The drugs acetazolamide and dexametha-
appropriate antibiotic. sone are recommended by some doctors for
the prevention of AMS; however, their use is
Giardiasis controversial. They can reduce the symptoms,
This parasite is relatively common in trav- but they may also mask warning signs; severe
ellers. Symptoms include nausea, bloating, and fatal AMS has occurred in people taking
excess gas, fatigue and intermittent diarrhoea. these drugs.
‘Eggy’ burps are often attributed solely to giar- Follow the following tips to prevent acute
dia, but they are not in fact specific to giardia. mountain sickness.
The parasite will eventually go away if left Ascend slowly – have frequent rest days,
untreated but this can take months. The treat- spending two to three nights at each rise
ment of choice is Tinidazole; Metronidazole of 1000m.
is a second-line option. It is always wise to sleep at a lower al-
titude than the greatest height reached
ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS during the day, if possible. Also, once
Air Pollution above 3000m, care should be taken not
If you are travelling in urban environments to increase the sleeping altitude by more
in Pakistan, air pollution is something you’ll than 300m per day.
become very aware of. Pollution causes minor Drink extra fluids. The mountain air is
respiratory problems such as sinusitis, dry dry and cold and moisture is lost as you
throat and irritated eyes, and can aggravate breathe.
coughs and colds. If you have severe respi- Eat light, high-carbohydrate meals.
ratory problems such as asthma speak with Avoid alcohol and sedatives.
your doctor before travelling to any heavily
polluted urban centres; you’re also advised to Food & Drink
bring appropriate medication in case it can’t Eating in restaurants is the biggest risk fac-
easily be found in Pakistan. tor for contracting traveller’s diarrhoea.
lonelyplanet.com I N PA K I S TA N • • W o m e n ’ s H e a l t h 401
Ways to avoid it include eating only freshly Lice inhabit various parts of your body but
cooked food, avoiding shellfish, and avoid- most commonly your head and pubic area.
ing food that has been sitting around in Transmission is via close contact with an in-
buffets. Peel all fruit, cook vegetables, and fected person. They can be difficult to treat
soak salads in iodine water for at least 20 and you may need numerous applications of
minutes. Eat in busy restaurants with high an anti-lice shampoo such as permethrin.
customer turnover. Ticks are contracted by walking in rural
areas. They are commonly found behind the
Heat ears, on the belly and in armpits. If you have
Parts of Pakistan are hot and humid through- had a tick bite and experience symptoms such
out the year. For most people it takes at as a rash at the site of the bite or elsewhere,
least two weeks to adapt to the hot climate. fever, or muscle aches you should see a doctor.
Swelling of the feet and ankles is common, Doxycycline prevents tick-borne diseases.
as are muscle cramps caused by excessive Scorpions are found throughout South
sweating. Prevent these problems by avoid- Asia. Although usually easily spotted and
ing dehydration and excessive activity in the avoided, they tend to turn up in articles of
heat. Don’t eat salt tablets (they aggravate clothing – especially shoes – if you’re camp-
the gut), but drinking rehydration solution ing. Treat a scorpion bite by flushing with cold
or eating salty food does help. Treat cramps water, applying an ice pack and bandaging the
by stopping activity, resting, rehydrating with area firmly. If severe pain or swelling occurs,
double-strength rehydration solution and seek medical attention immediately.
gently stretching.
Dehydration is the main contributor to WOMEN’S HEALTH
heat exhaustion. Symptoms of heat exhaus- Pregnant women should receive specialised
tion include feeling weak, headaches, irrita- advice before travelling. The ideal time to
HEALTH
bility, nausea or vomiting, sweaty skin, a fast, travel is in the second trimester (between
weak pulse and a normal or slightly elevated 16 and 28 weeks), when the risk of preg-
body temperature. Treatment involves getting nancy-related problems is at its lowest and
out of the heat and/or sun, fanning the victim pregnant women generally feel at their best.
and applying cool, wet cloths to the skin, lay- During the first trimester there is a risk of
ing the victim flat with their legs raised, and miscarriage and in the third trimester com-
rehydrating with water containing a quarter plications such as premature labour and
of a teaspoon of salt per litre. Recovery is usu- high blood pressure are possible. It’s wise
ally rapid but it’s common to feel weak for to travel with a companion. Always carry a
days afterwards. list of quality medical facilities available at
Heatstroke is a serious medical emergency. your destination and ensure you continue
Symptoms come on suddenly and include your standard antenatal care at these facili-
weakness, nausea, a hot, dry body with a body ties. Avoid rural travel in areas with poor
temperature of over 41ºC, dizziness, confu- transportation and medical facilities. Most
sion, loss of coordination, fits and eventual of all, ensure travel insurance covers all
collapse and loss of consciousness. Seek medi- pregnancy-related possibilities, including
cal help and commence cooling by getting the premature labour.
person out of the heat, removing their clothes, Malaria is a high-risk disease in pregnancy.
fanning them and applying cool, wet cloths WHO recommends that pregnant women do
or ice to their body, especially to the groin not travel to areas with Chloroquine-resist-
and armpits. ant malaria. None of the more effective anti-
Take sunscreen with you, as it can be hard malarial drugs are completely safe to take
to obtain outside big cities. during pregnancy.
Hepatitis E is a particular problem in preg-
Insect Bites & Stings nant women – if it is contracted in the third
Bedbugs don’t carry disease but their bites are trimester, 30% of women and their babies
very itchy. They live in the cracks of furniture will die.
and walls and then migrate to the bed at night Traveller’s diarrhoea can quickly lead to
to feed on you. You can treat the itch with dehydration and result in inadequate blood
an antihistamine. flow to the placenta. Many of the drugs used
402 I N PA K I S TA N • • W o m e n ’ s H e a l t h lonelyplanet.com
to treat various diarrhoea bugs are not rec- all contribute to thrush. Treatment is with
ommended in pregnancy. Azithromycin is antifungal creams and pessaries such as
considered safe. Clotrimazole, or a single tablet of Fluconazole
In the urban areas of Pakistan, sanitary (Diflucan). Urinary tract infections can be
products are readily available. Birth-control precipitated by dehydration or long bus
options may be limited so bring adequate journeys without toilet stops; bring suitable
supplies. Heat, humidity and antibiotics can antibiotics.
HEALTH
403
Language
(Ishkoman, Yasin, Ghizar and Chitral); and
Balti (Baltistan).
CONTENTS In this chapter we’ve included a list of
common words and phrases in these lan-
Urdu 403 guages, as well as Urdu and Chinese.
Balti 405 If you really want to make the most of
Burushaski 406 your trip, get a copy of Lonely Planet’s Cen-
Khowar 407 tral Asia Phrasebook, which includes all the
Kohistani 407 languages of the region, plus communica-
Mandarin 408 tion and cultural tips.
Pashto 409
Shina 410 What About English?
Uyghur 411 The entire top echelon of the Pakistani civil
Wakhi 412 service speaks English, so if you can’t make
yourself understood anywhere else, try a
government or police official. English is
WHO SPEAKS WHAT WHERE? rarely used in western Xinjiang, except by a
Urdu is the ‘national language’ of Pakistan, few educated officials. It’s common in
although fewer than 10% of Pakistanis larger towns of the Northern Areas and
speak it as a first language. This may be widespread in Rawalpindi and Islamabad.
explained by the fact that Pakistanis speak
over 300 dialects of some two dozen lan-
guages. Urdu sounds much like Hindi, the URDU
speech of north India, but it is written in a
Urdu is an acquisitive language, swallowing
modified Arabic script.
whole phrases verbatim from Persian, Ara-
Travelling down the Karakoram High-
bic, English, wherever. You’ll have no trouble
way (KKH) is like passing through half-a- with plet (plate), machiz (matches) and
dozen tiny countries. Every few hundred even the word for you, the foreigner – angrez
kilometres you find not just another dialect (‘English’, no matter where you’re from).
but a new language. In addition to the two For a more detailed guide to grammar,
‘national’ languages of Urdu and Mandarin pronunciation and phrases, pick up Lonely
Chinese, there are at least seven other com- Planet’s Hindi, Urdu & Bengali Phrasebook.
LANGUAGE
mon tongues, from three different linguis- The home-grown Teach Yourself Urdu in
tic families. Persian is also understood to Two Months (Noor Publishing House, Kara-
some extent throughout the region. chi) is available in Pakistani bookshops.
You can get by with Urdu and Chinese
basics, especially in official situations, but ACHAAH
neither is native to Xinjiang or the North- The word for ‘good’ (achaah) is Urdu’s all-
ern Areas, and both languages are often purpose expression. Depending on the con-
used with a degree of reluctance. Even the text and tone of voice it can also mean ‘as
most garbled attempts at local speech can you wish’, ‘I understand’, ‘I agree’, ‘right’,
reward you out of all proportion to what ‘really?’ and more.
you’re actually trying to say.
The predominant regional languages of ASALAAM ALEIKUM
the KKH are Uyghur (Kashgar, Tarim The nice thing about this general Muslim
Basin); Wakhi (Tashkurghan, Gojal); Buru- (Arabic) greeting, which means ‘Peace be
shaski (Hunza); Shina (lower Hunza, Gilgit, with you’ – and is sometimes used for de-
Punial, Astor, Chilas); Kohistani (Indus partures too – is that it can help break the
Kohistan); Pashto (Besham, Swat and ice in any situation. The reply to an older
northern Hazara); Khowar or Chitrali or respected person is to repeat the phrase;
404 L A N G UA G E • • U r d u lonelyplanet.com
to anyone else, it’s wa aleikum salaam (‘and How are you? aap kairiyat se hai?
with you too’). Everything’s fine/OK. sab teek hai.
Goodbye. kudaa haafiz
BAS See you again. pir milege
‘Enough’ (bas) is a useful multipurpose
word for when you’ve had enough tea, There is no word for ‘please’, but adding the
crowds, silly questions etc. Saying it twice – word jee to names and other words makes
bas bas! – gives it an edge. them extra polite, eg shukriyaa jee, assal-
aam aleikum jee.
PRONUNCIATION
Urdu is generally written in a modified Thank you. shukriyaa
form of the Persian-Arabic script. Repre- Special thanks. mehrbaanee
senting the language in the Roman alphabet Excuse me. maaf keejiye
is a difficult exercise, as there are many No problem. koee baat nahee
sounds in Urdu that don’t exist in English. Yes. jee haa
If the transliteration system is to be simple No. jee nahee
to use, some compromise is unavoidable. In Do you speak kyaa aapko angrezee aatee hai?
the following list of words and phrases we English?
have reduced the number of sounds repre- I don’t understand. mai nahee samjaa/samjee (m/f)
sented, but the meaning should still be clear I can’t read Urdu. urdu parnaa nahee aataa.
through context. The distinction between What’s your name? aapkaa naam kyaa hai?
short and long vowels has been retained, as My name is ... meraa naam ... hai
this is a particularly important part of the What’s the name of is jaga kaa naam kyaa hai?
Urdu language. this place?
Where are you going? aap kahaa jaa (rahe/rahee)
Vowels haee? (m/f)
a as in ‘sun’
Is there a bus to kyaa aaj (gilgit) ko bas
aa as in ‘father’
(Gilgit) today? jaayegee?
e as in ‘bet’
ai as the ‘a’ in ‘bad’ What time does it go? vo kitne baje jaayegee?
i as in ‘sit’ Where is (the GPO)? (GPO) kahaa hai?
ee as in ‘beet’ Where are you from? aap kahaa (ke/kee) hai? (m/f)
o as in ‘both’ I’m from ... mai ... (kaa/kee) hoo (m/f)
au as in ‘haul’ Do you serve food? kyaa yahaa kaanaa
u as in ‘put’ miltaa hai?
oo as in ‘food’ Do you have (time)? kyaa aapke paas (vaqt) hai?
Is there (hot water)? kyaa (garm paanee) hai?
I (don’t) want tea.
LANGUAGE
1 ek
BALTI
1½ der The Balti language is similar to classical
2 do Tibetan, which has four levels of speech:
2½ daaee to/between common people; to/between
3 teen honoured or revered people; colloquial; and
3½ saare teen literary. The colloquial is dominant in
4 chaar Baltistan. Stress is indicated in the follow-
4½ saare chaar ing words and phrases by capitals.
5 panch
6 chai CONVERSATION, WORDS & PHRASES
7 saat Hello. (polite) asalaam aleikum
8 aat Hello. (informal) ZHUleh
9 nau Hello. (in passing, or to shokhs/shakhsa
10 das person arriving)
LANGUAGE
50 gha fchu
60 ni shu sum FOOD & DRINKS
70 ni shu sum na fchu food SHIas
80 ni shu bji apple balt
90 ni shu bji na fchu apricot joo
100 bgya dried apricot bahTERing
1000 stong dry cheese kooroot
egg tiGAN
food, bread shapik
BURUSHASKI meat
noodle soup
chaap
daoodo
Burushaski is spoken in central Hunza, rice briw (Nagar)/bras (Hunza)
upper Nagar, Yasin, Ishkoman and north- white cheese booroos
ern Chitral. Its origins are obscure, but it wholewheat bread phitti
may be the KKH region’s oldest language. vegetable hoi
Its difficult structure makes it nearly im- yogurt dooMAnoo maMOO
possible for outsiders to master; there are
said to be 38 plural forms, and words buttermilk diltar
change form at both ends depending on grape wine mel
lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • K h o w a r 407
yesterday saBUR
now mu Good. suGA/mihta
Thank you. shukria
Yes/No. ah/ni
KHOWAR FOOD & DRINKS
Khowar (Chitrali) is the speech not only of bread gwel
Chitral proper, but of Ishkoman, Yasin and egg aNA
Ghizar on the Gilgit side of the Shandur meat maSU
Pass. milk chir
tea chai
How are you? tu keecha asoos? vegetable sabzi
Very well, thanks. bojam, shukria water vi/wi
Please. mehrbanni khori yogurt dudi
Yes/No. dee/no
Where is (Drosh)? (drosh) kura sher? NUMBERS
A little. kam 1 ek
bed jen 2 du
(very) good (bo) jam 3 cha
408 L A N G UA G E • • M a n d a r i n lonelyplanet.com
TIME QUESTIONS
today aaz A phrase becomes a question if you add ma
tomorrow okot to the end of it, eg ni dong (you understand),
now uskeh ni dong ma? (do you understand?). You can
(two) o’clock (du) masma also make a question by juxtaposing posi-
tive and negative forms, eg yao bu yao?
(‘want-not-want?’, meaning ‘do you want
MANDARIN it?’), you mei you? (‘have-not-have?’, mean-
ing ‘do you have it?’), hao bu hao? (‘good-
Mandarin (or putonghua, ‘people’s speech’) not-good?’, meaning ‘OK?’).
is China’s official language, the dialect of
Beijing and the speech of bureaucrats. Basic CONVERSATION, WORDS & PHRASES
spoken Mandarin is surprisingly easy: there In the following words and phrases, some
are no conjugations, no declensions, and pronunciation guidelines have been in-
the word order is like English – just string cluded (in brackets) after some the trickier
them together. The hard parts are pronun- Pinyin letters and combinations.
ciation and tones.
For a compact and comprehensive trav- Hello. (are you well?) ni hao
eller’s guide to Mandarin, pick up a copy of Goodbye. zaijian
Lonely Planet’s Mandarin Phrasebook. Please. qing
Thank you. xiexie
PRONUNCIATION Excuse me .... dui bu qi ... (dway-bu-chee)
Mainland China’s official Romanised ‘alpha- Yes. (correct) dui. (dway)
bet’ is called Pinyin. It’s very streamlined, No. (not correct/not so) bu dui/bu shi
but the sounds aren’t always self-evident. Do you speak English? ni hui shuo yingyü ma?
The letters representing consonants that A little bit.
LANGUAGE
later rusto 2 du
3 cheh
4
SHINA 5
char
poe (nasal e)
6 sha
Shina is spoken in lower Hunza and Nagar 7 saat
(below the KKH bridge near Minapin); 8 aash
Gilgit and its valleys (Naltar, Bagrot, Hara- 9 nau
mosh and the upper Gilgit River watershed); 10 dai
Chilas and northeast Indus Kohistan. Mean- 20 bi
ings are often dependent on tones, so only 30 bigaDAI
the simplest words are given here. Stress is 40 DUbyo
indicated in the following words and 50 DUbiga DAI
phrases by capitals. 60 SHAbyo
70 SHAbyoga DAI
CONVERSATION, WORDS & PHRASES 80 CHARbyo
Hello. aLA 90 CHARbyoga DAI
Goodbye. huDA haFIZ 100 shal
How are you? je kal han? 1000 saas
lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • U y g h u r 411
6 alTE
7 yeTE Do you speak English? torezh angrezi vizta?
8 seyKIZ I (don’t) understand. mazhe malum tei/(nahst)
9 toQUZ Where is ...? ... kumar?
10 ön I don’t know. dishma
20 yigirME How much (is it)? yem chizi tsumrer?
30 otTUZ I want (tea). uzesh (choiyeh) zokh-tsaram
40 QURuk I don’t eat meat. uzesh gusht nei yowem
50 elLIK I’m lost. mazhe hu fdek nost
60 atMISH Go away! trabarech!
70 yetMISH
80 sekSEN bed pipr
90 tokhSAN guesthouse mehmonkhona
100 yüz hotel hoteli
1000 mung room jayi
single/double room yi/bu khaalgeh pipr
TIME Wakhi-style khikwor-khun
What’s the time? sa’ET KANche BOLde? key weshik
It’s (six) o’clock. (ALte) BOLde guide fdek disuv nikuz
lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • W a k h i 413
Glossary
The glossary contains some of the words chappals – sandals or leather thong-like footwear
and terms you may come across during charas – resin of the marijuana plant; also referred to as
your time in Pakistan. For definitions of ‘hashish’
food and drink see p62. charbagh – formal Persian garden, divided into quarters
(literally ‘four gardens’)
ablation valley – small valley that runs parallel to the charpoy – simple bed made of ropes knotted together on
glacier at its margins a wooden frame
Allah – God chhish – mountain (Burushaski)
amir – chieftain, nobleman; also called emir chinkara – gazelle
an – mountain pass (Khowar) chital – spotted deer
Aryan – those who migrated to the northern subconti- chogha – embroidered, sometimes ceremonial, woollen
nent from Persia cloak with oversize sleeves common in the North-West
asalaam aleikum – Muslim greeting, literally ‘peace be Frontier Province (NWFP) and Northern Areas
with you’; the usual response is wa aleikum salaam, ‘and chowk – town square, roundabout, major intersection or
with you too’ marketplace
autorickshaw – noisy, three-wheeled, motorised chowkidar – caretaker; night watchman
contraption for transporting passengers, livestock, bags of crore – 10 million
grain etc for short distances; cheaper than taxis
Ayurveda – ancient and complex science of Indian herbal dacoit – bandit, outlaw
medicine and healing dak – staging post; government-run accommodation
azad – free (Urdu), as in Azad Jammu & Kashmir dargah – shrine or place of burial of a Muslim saint
azan – Muslim call to prayer dhaba – basic restaurant or snack bar
dhobi – person who washes clothes
badgir – traditional tower built beside houses in certain dhobi ghat – place where clothes are washed
semidesert regions, eg Thatta, to funnel in breezes dhol – traditional, large, two-sided Punjabi drum
bagh – garden dholki – a smaller version of the dhol
baksheesh – donation (alms), tip or bribe dhurrie – rug
bar – river, valley or stream (Burushaski) dum pukht – traditional steam-pressure cooking
begum – respectful title for a Muslim woman (usually technique that uses a clay pot
of high rank) dupatta – long scarf for women worn with the shal-
bhang – dried leaves and flowering shoots of the war kameez; used as head and chest cover in mosques,
marijuana plant conservative company, bazaars etc
bhangra – rhythmic Punjabi music/dance durbar – royal court; also a government
bidi – small, hand-rolled cigarette
biradari – clan emir – chieftain, nobleman; also called amir
brak – mountain or mountain pasture (Balti) Eve-teasing – sexual harassment
burka – one-piece garment used by conservative Muslim
women to cover themselves from head to toe fakir – member of any religious order of Islam; a Muslim
buzkashi – Afghan variant of horse polo, traditionally who has taken a vow of poverty
played with a goat’s head or carcass (or these days, often a
replica) instead of a ball gah – river, valley or stream (Shina); place (Persian)
gali – mountain pass (Shina)
cantonment – administrative and military area of a gang – glacier (Balti)
Raj-era town ganja – dried flowering tips of marijuana plant
GLOASSARY
caravanserai – basic accommodation traditionally for geyser – hot-water unit found in many bathrooms
camel caravans; also called serai ghat – steps or landing on a river, range of hills, or road
chador – lightweight woollen blanket often worn as up hills
a shawl by Pakistani men and sometimes doubling as a ghazal – Urdu song derived from poetry; poignant love
blanket, pillow, curtain etc theme
chaikhana – teahouse ghazi – warrior of Islam
G L O S S A R Y 415
gol – river, valley or stream (Khowar) Line of Control (LoC) – boundary dividing Pakistan-
gomukh – glacier (Shina) administered and India-administered Kashmir
gree – col or depression in a chain of mountains (Khowar) lungma – river, valley or stream (Balti)
gulli – lane or alleyway
gurdwara – Sikh temple mahal – house or palace
Guru Granth Sahib – Sikh holy book maharaja – literally ‘Great King’; Hindu or Sikh princely
ruler
haghost – mountain pass (Burushaski) maharani – wife of a princely ruler or a ruler in her own
haj – Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca right
hammam – public bathhouse and barbershop; Turkish bath malik – (title of ) a Pashtun tribal chief
haveli – traditional residence or mansion, often ornately masala – mix (often spices)
decorated masjid – mosque
Hejira – flight of the Prophet Mohammed from Mecca to maulana – see maulvi
Medina on 16 July AD 622; this is the reference for dates in maulvi – mullah, (title of ) an Islamic cleric of any rank;
the Islamic calendar, designated AH, ‘After Hejira’ also called maulana
hijab – headscarf mazar – Islamic grave
hijra – eunuch, transvestite Mehtar – princely ruler (Chitral)
hiran – deer mela – fair or festival
hujra – Pashtun village guesthouse mihrab – mosque ‘prayer niche’ that faces Mecca
mir – (title of ) traditional rulers of Hunza and Nagyr
iftar – breaking of the Ramazan fast at sunset miri – citadel
imam – Muslim religious leader Moghul – see Mughal
imam barga – special meeting hall used only for the Mohajir – one of the millions of Urdu-speaking Muslims
Shiite festivals of Ashura and Chhelum who fled from India at Partition (1947), settling mainly
in sha’ Allah – Arabic for ‘If God wills it’, almost a stand- around Karachi (Sindh)
ard part of the future tense in Islamic countries monsoon – rainy season
moraine – mass of rocks left by a glacier; along a
jamaat khana – Ismaili community hall, their closest glacier’s margins (a lateral moraine), in its centre (a medial
equivalent to a mosque moraine) and at its mouth (a terminal moraine)
jami masjid or jami mosque – generic name for muezzin – one who calls Muslims to prayer, traditionally
mosque used for Friday prayers from the minaret of a mosque
jenab – respectful title for a man, along the lines of ‘Sir’ Mughal – Muslim dynasty of subcontinental emperors
jihad – holy war from Babur to Aurangzeb
jirga – council of tribal elders Mughlai food – recipes influenced by the Mughals;
typical of North Indian cuisine
kafir – Islamic term for a heathen or nonbeliever mullah – Muslim scholar or religious leader
karez – old, subterranean water channels used for musafir khana – literally ‘traveller’s place’, cheap
irrigation travellers’ inn with charpoys and basic meals
Khan – Muslim honorific title Muslim – adherent of the Islamic faith
khana – food muztagh – literally ‘ice mountain’ in Turkic languages, a
khayaban – boulevard or avenue, eg Khayaban-i- cluster of the highest peaks of the Karakoram, from which
Suhrawardy means Suhrawardy Avenue the major glaciers descend
khel – clan
khizdi – tent nala – stream, river or valley
khussadar – tribal guard or levy namaz – Muslim prayers
khwar – tributary stream or valley (Pashto) nautch – dance
Koran – see Quran nautch girls – dancing girls; these days most nautch girls
kotal – pass (Pashto) are essentially prostitutes
kucheri – law courts (sometimes kutchery) nawab – Muslim prince or powerful landowner
GLOSSARY
kurta – long shirt with short collar or no collar nazim – a local government’s chief elected official
nilgai – antelope
la – mountain pass (Balti)
lakh – 100,000 pamir – glacially formed high-elevation valleys renowned
levies – rural police drawn by the local feudal chief from as summer grazing grounds
his own tribe or clan pani – water
© Lonely Planet Publications
416 G L O S S A R Y
parao – traditional stage or length of a day’s march, used serai – cheap travellers’ inn, often with charpoys and
to calculate porters’ wages basic meals; also called caravanserai
Parsi – adherent of the Zoroastrian faith; also spelt shahadah – Muslim declaration of faith (‘There is no God
Parsee but Allah; Mohammed is his prophet’)
Partition – formal division of British India into two shahrah – road, eg Shahrah-i-Iqbal means Iqbal Rd
separate countries, India and Pakistan, on 14 August 1947 shalwar kameez – traditional dresslike tunic and
Pashtun – member of one of the interrelated tribes on trouser combination with styles for both women and men;
both sides of the Pakistan–Afghanistan border; southern sometimes spelt/pronounced salwar qamiz
tribespeople usually call themselves Pukhtun sharia – Islamic law
Pathan – a corruption (probably from Urdu) of Pashtun sitar – Indian stringed musical instrument
or Pukhtun Sufi – Muslim mystic
PCO – Public Call Office; where you can make local, Sufism – Islamic mysticism
interstate and international telephone calls Suzuki – a tiny Suzuki utility with a flimsy canopy for
piala – small bowl in which chanaki is served cheap, cramped intra-city transport.
pietra dura – marble inlay work
pir – holy man; (title of ) a Sufi saint tabla – twin drums
pish – dwarf palm used for handicrafts tangi – gorge
PTDC – Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation technical – referring to climbing or mountaineering skills
Pukhtun – see Pashtun and techniques required to complete a route
purdah – custom among some conservative Muslims of tempo – noisy, three-wheeler public-transport vehicle;
keeping women in seclusion; veiled bigger than an autorickshaw
tiffin – snack or meal container, often made of stainless
qawwali – Islamic devotional singing steel; snack
qila – fort tonga – a two- or four-wheeled horse-drawn cart used
Quaid-i-Azam – ‘Great Leader’, Pakistanis’ honorific title for public transport
for Mohammed Ali Jinnah, the founder of Pakistan true left – the actual left bank of a river when facing
Quran – the holy book of Islam; also spelt Koran downstream
true right – the actual right bank of a river when facing
raj – rule or sovereignty downstream
Ramazan (Ramadan) – the Islamic holy month of
sunrise-to-sunset fasting (no eating, drinking or urs – death anniversary of a revered person
smoking); most commonly referred to as Ramazan in uween – mountain pass (Wakhi)
Pakistan
wallah – man; added onto anything, eg dhobi-wallah,
sahib – respectful title applied to a man taxi-wallah; not as widely used in Pakistan as in India
samadhi – shrine
sardar – hereditary title granted to certain tribal chiefs zakat – charitable donation, the third Pillar of Islam
and nobles in Muslim areas by the British zamindar – powerful landowner
sarhad – frontier; capitalised, it refers to the North-West zherav – river, valley or stream (Wakhi)
Frontier Province (NWFP) ziarat – shrine
GLOSSARY
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421
Index
A Saidu Sharif 209-12, 210 Barikot 213
Abakh Hoja Tomb 325 Taxila 88-90, 89 Barpu Glacier 353
Abbottabad 245-9, 246 architecture 53-4 Barsat 284
accommodation 364-6 area codes, see inside front cover Barsin 263
activities 366, see also individual army 34-6 Basant 110
activities arts 52-6, see also individual arts Basha Dam 265
acute mountain sickness (AMS) Artush 330 Basho 286
341, 400 Ashoka, Emperor 237, 249-50 Basho Valley 291-2
Afghan border 154 Ashoka Rocks 249-50 Batagram 256-7
INDEX
Afghan refugees 46 Askur Das 306 bathrooms 377-8
Afiyatabad (New Sost) 314-15, 314 Astor Valley 268-70, 269 Batrik 232, 344
AIDS 398 Astor village 268 Battakundi 255
air pollution 70 Athmaqam 185 Batura Glacier 356-7, 7
air travel 382-3 ATMs 373 bazaars 376, 6
airlines 382-3 Avdegar 355-6, 355 Bazira 213
airports 382-3 Avgarch 313-14 begging 50
tickets 383 Awami League 32 Begum Shah Mosque 105
to/from Pakistan 383-5 Ayub National Park 80 Besham 258-9, 258
to/from the KKH 394 Azad Jammu & Kashmir 181-6, 182 Beyal 349
within Pakistan 388-9 earthquake 183 Bhitai, Shah Abdul Latif 52, 176
Akbar 27 Bhong Mosque 126-7
Akbari Mosque 179 B Bhurban 92-3
Alai Valley 259-61, 260 Baba Ghundi Ziarat 316 Bhutto, Benazir 35, 39, 51
alcohol 60 Baba Wali Kandahari 90 Bhutto family 38-9
Alexander the Great 26 Babur 27 Bhutto, Zulfiqar Ali 38, 39
Ali Masjid 200 Babusar Pass 255-6, 267 bicycle travel, see cycling
Aliabad 298-9 Badshahi Mosque 103-5 bird-watching 66
All-India Muslim League 29-30 Bagh 186 Birir Valley 233
Allergological Asthma Resort Bagrot Valley 271-2, 271 Birmogh Lasht 227-8
138 Bahawalpur 121-5, 122 Biyabari 347
Altit Fort 305 Bahrain 215-16 boating 167, 366, 4
altitude sickness 400 baksheesh 373 Boibar Valley 313
Aminabad 313 Bala Hisar Fort 194 Bolan Pass 153
Anarkali 106 Balakot 253 books
Andra Fort 309 Balanguru 231-2 cooking 58
animals 65-7, see also individual Baloch people 37, 44-5 health 397
animals Balochistan 139-56, 141 history 32, 34, 38, 40
endangered species 66-7 Balti 405-6 literature 53
Anish 232 Baltistan 284-94, 361-3, 285 politics 31, 32, 34, 38, 40
Archaeological Museum of Balochistan Baltit, see Karimabad travel 17-18
(Quetta Museum) 145 Baltit Fort 300, 301 wildlife 66
archaeological sites Baltoro Glacier trek 362 border ceremony 120
Banbhore 174-5 Banbhore 174-5 border crossings 385-8
Ha Noi 330 Bangladesh 31-2 Borit Lake 309, 312
Harappa 134-5 Banjosa 186 Brahui people 45
Lower Swat 213 Bannu 203 British East India Company 28
Makli Hill 175 Bar Palas 262 British Raj buildings 166
Mardan Plain 205-6 Bar Valley 295-6 British rule 28-9
Mehrgarh 153-4 bargaining 374 Brun 232
Moenjodaro 176-9, 178 Bari Imam Shrine 79 Bualtar Glacier 353
422 Index (B-E)
Shigar 292 China Friendship Rd 317 Dera Ismail Khan (DI Khan) 203-4
Takht-i-Bahi 206 China–Pakistan Highway 317 Dera Nawab Sahib (Dera Nawab)
Taxila 88-9 Chirah 271 126
Three-Immortals Caves 330 Chitral district 220-34, 221 Derawar Fort 126
Udegram 213 people 190 diarrhoea 400
Zarai 200 trekking 341-6 digital photography 375
Bulunkul Dobey 321 Chitral Festival 370 Dih 317
Bumboret Valley 232-3 Chitral Gol National Park 68-9, 228 Dir district 217-20, 208
Bunar Das 267 Chitral Town 222-7, 223 Dir town 218-19, 219
Bundiwalum 346 Choar 260 Diran Peak 272
Buni 233 Cholistan 125-6 disabilities, travellers with 378
Burawai 255 Chowa Dara valley 262 Doni An 342-3
Burushaski 406-7 Chughtai, Abdur Rahman 108 Doni Ghari 342
bus travel Chughtai Museum 108-9 Donson Pass 344-5, 344
on the KKH 393-4 cinema 53 dress 43
to/from Pakistan 387 climate 15-16, 367, 368 drinks 60
within Pakistan 389-90 clothing 381 driving, see car travel
business hours 366-7, see also inside computer repairs 117 Drosh 222
front cover consulates 370 drugs 51, 196, 369
corruption 50-2 Dubair Valley 261
C costs 17 Duikar 305
camping 365 trekking 337 Durand Line 32, 37, 189
car travel credit cards 374 Dut 313
driver hire 390-1 cricket 56-7
on the KKH 394 culture 41-57 E
rental 390 customs regulations 367-9 earthquakes 64, 183
to/from Pakistan 386 cycling 366, 385, 389 economy 49-52
within Pakistan 390-1 Babusar Pass & Kaghan Valley 255 Edara 320
carpets 55-6 Kashgar to Islamabad 242-4 Edhi, Abdul Sattar 161
Central Karakoram National Park on the KKH 392-3 Edhi Foundation 161
68, 286 safety 393 Edicts of Ashoka 206
Chaghbin 228 Eidgah Mosque 131
Chakdara 217-18 D electrical repairs 117
Chakhchun 293 Dadar 256 electricity 365
Chalt 295-6, 297 Dainyor 280-2 email, see internet access
Chaman 154 Daman-e-Koh 77-9 embassies 370
Changa Manga Wildlife Reserve 121 dance 55 emergencies, see inside front cover
Dandai 258 energy shortage 70
000 Map pages dangers 16-17, 369 environmental issues 65, 69-70
000 Photograph pages Dar 272 erosion 70
Darel 263-5 etiquette 43
Index (E-H) 423
INDEX
Eid-Milad-un-Nabi 371 G Grom 231-2
Eid-ul-Azha (Adha) 371 Gaddani beach 174 Guchesham 357
Eid-ul-Fitr 371 Gakuch 283 guesthouses 366
Islamic 371 Galis, the 92-3 Gujars 240
Kalasha 231 Gandhara 26, 27, 88, 188, 191, Gulagmuli 284
Mela Chiraghan 110 205-6, 207 Gulmit 308-10, 309, 311
Nauroz (Navrus) 370 Ganish 306 Gulmit Glacier 309
Ramazan 371 Garam Chashma 228 guns 51, 196
Shandur Cup (Polo Festival) 370 Gargoh 272 Gupis 283
Shandur Pass 276 Gashuchi 346 gurdwaras
Sibi Mela 152 Gazin Glacier 346 Gurdwara Janamasthan Nankana
urs of Data Ganj Bakhsh Hajveri gay travellers 371-2 121
110 Genghis Khan 237 Gurdwara of Arjan Dev 105
film 53 geography 63-5 Guru 233
fishing 366 geology 64 Guru Nanak 90, 121
food 58-62, 371 Ghaligai Buddha 213 Gwadar 156
customs 61 Ghashumaling 295
etiquette 43 Ghazni, Mahmud of 237 H
glossary 62 Ghez 321 Ha Noi 330
Hunza 304 Ghizar 283-4 haggling 374
restaurants 60-1 Ghora Dhaka 92-3 Halal 61
vegetarian travellers 61 Ghowari 292 Haleji Lake 175
foreigner’s registration 378 Ghulkin Village 309 Halmat 185
Fort Munro 134 Ghulmet 297, 298 handicrafts 55
forts giardiasis 400 Hanna Lake 150
Altit Fort 305 Gilgit region 263-84, 264 Haramosh Valley 271, 271
Andra Fort 309 Gilgit town 272-80, 273 Harappa 134-6
Bala Hisar Fort 194 Gilgit Uprising 275 Haripur 245
Baltit Fort 300, 301 Gittidas 256 Hasan Abdal 90
Chilas Fort 265 glacial warfare 36 Havelian 245
Chitral Fort 224-5 glaciers Hazara 244-57, 245
Derawar Fort 126 Baltoro Glacier 362 Hazarganji-Chiltan National Park
Jamrud Fort 200 Barpu Glacier 353 150-1
Kalam Darchi 361 Batura Glacier 356-7, 7 health 395-402
Karpochu Fort 288 Bualtar Glacier 353 diseases 397-400
Katkala 218 Gazin Glacier 346 insurance 395-6
Khar 134 Gulmit Glacier 309 trekking 341
Kot Diji 180 Mulungutti Glacier 313 vaccinations 396
Lahore Fort (Shahi Qila) 102-3, Pakora Glacier 351 websites 397
103 Passu Glacier 311 hepatitis 398
Mir Chakar’s Fort 153 Raikot Glacier 348 heroin 51
424 Index (H-K)
INDEX
Kel 185 Lahore Fort (Shahi Qila) 102-3, 103 maps 373
Keris 292 Lake Dudipat 255 trekking 336-7
Ketas 138 Lake Lulusar 255 Marco Polo sheep 67
Khalti Lake 283 Lake Saiful Mulk 254 Mardan 204-5, 204
Khan, AQ 38 lakes Margalla Hills National Park 79
Khan, General Ayub 34 Borit Lake 309, 312 Margalla Pass 88
Khan, General Mohammed Yayha 34 Haleji Lake 175 Marghazar Valley 214
Khan, Nusrat Fateh Ali 54 Hanna Lake 150 Masherbrum Peak 293
Khanian 254 Kachura Lake 291 Mastuj 234
Khaplu 292-3 Kara Kul 320-1 Mausoleum of Bibi Jawindi 127
khattak 55 Khalti Lake 283 measles 399
Khewra 138 Lake Dudipat 255 medical services 397, see also health
Khowar 407 Lake Lulusar 255 Mehrgarh 153-4
Khunjerab National Park 69, 317 Lake Saiful Mulk 254 Mendi 286
Khunjerab Pass 307-17, 308, 317 Manchhar Lake 176 metric conversions, see inside front
Khuzdar 154 Naltar Lake 351 cover
Khwazakhela 214 Rama Lake 268-9 Michni checkpoint 201
Khyber Pass 200-2, 8 Rati Gali Sar 185 military rule 34-6
itineraries 19 Rush Phari 352-63 Minapin 298, 298
Khyber Railway 202 Satpara Lake 290-1 Minar-i-Pakistan 105
Khyber Village 313 Subri Lake 185 Mingora 209-12, 209
Kil 316 Lal Suhanra National Park 69, 125 Mintaka Pass 360-1
Kilik Pass 360-1 Landi Kota 201 Mintaka Valley 318
Kipling, Rudyard 29, 107 Langar Valley 284 Mir Chakar’s Fort 153
Kirmin 316 language 403-13 Mirpur 186
Kohat 203 food vocabulary 62 Misgar 316-17
Kohistani 407-8 Latobah 270 mobile phones 377
Koksil 317 Leepa Valley 186 Moenjodaran Script 180
Komila 262 legal matters 372-3 Moenjodaro 176-9, 178
Kot Diji 180 lesbian travellers 371-2 Mohajir Quami Movement (MQM)
Kotli 186 Liachar Nala 267 36-7
Krakal 232 literature 52-3, see also books Mohajirs 36, 45
Kulalai 216 travel 17-18 money 17, 369, 373-5, see also inside
Kundal Shahi 185 Loralai 155 front cover
Kundyak An 345, 344 Lowari Pass 219-20 monsoon 16
Lukkay Gutte (Asota) 207 Morkhun 313
L mosques
Lady Finger 305 M Akbari Mosque 179
Lahore 96-119, 98, 100, 8 Machiara National Park 185 Ali Masjid 200
accommodation 110-13 Madaglasht 222 Badshahi Mosque 103-5
activities 109 Madyan 214-15, 215 Begum Shah Mosque 105
426 Index (M-P)
Shahi Masjid (Grand Mosque) 225 Faqir Khana Museum 106 Nilt 297
Sunehri Masjid (Golden Mosque) Geological Survey of Pakistan Nimogram 213
105 Museum 145 North-West Frontier Province
Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque) 102 Gulmit Cultural Museum 308 187-234, 188
motorcycle travel Harappa 135 safety 189, 203
on the KKH 394 Kal’as’a Dur 232 Northern Areas 238-9
to/from Pakistan 386 Lahore Museum 107 nuclear weapons 38
within Pakistan 390-1 Lok Virsa Museum 77 Nur Jahan 108
Mt Ilam 214 Mardan 204-5 Nurpur Shahan 79
Mt Kongur 320 Moenjodaro 179
mountains National Museum of Pakistan 164 O
Bubulimating 305 Pakistan Air Force (PAF) Museum Oshikandas 271
Diran Peak 272 166
Dobani 268 Pakistan Army Museum 80 P
Haramosh 268, 271 Pakistan Maritime Museum 166 painting 54-5
Kampire Dior 294 Peshawar 194 Pakistan Army Museum 80
Lady Finger 305 Sibi Museum 153 Pakistan Monument 77
Masherbrum Peak 293 Swat 210 Pakistan Tourism Development
Miranjani Peak 93 Taxila 88-9 Corporation 378
Mt Khalifat 151 Musharraf, President Pervez 33-4, 35 Pakora Pass 350-1, 350
Mt Kongur 320 music 53 Pakpattan 136
Mukshpuri Peak 93 qawwali 104 Palas Valley 262
Muztagh Ata 320 Muzaffarabad 183-4 Pamiri 359-60
Nanga Parbat (Diamir) 268-70, Muzaffarabad Fort 184 Panjnad Head 128
346 Muztagh Ata 320 Paras 254
Rakaposhi 351, 352 Partition 29-31
Rush Peak 353 N KKH 238
Shani 351 Naghar Fort guesthouse 220 Pashto 409-10
Shimla Peak 247 Nagyr 294-307, 349-54 Pashtuns 37-8, 44, 190
Spantik (Ganesh Chhish) 353 Nagyr village 307 passes
Ultar 353-5 Naltar Valley 281-2, 281 Babusar Pass 251, 255-6
Tupopdan 310 Nanga Parbat (Diamir) 268-70, 346 Bolan Pass 153
Mountbatten, Lord Louis 30 Naran 254-5 Donson Pass 344-5, 344
Mughals 27 Nathiagali 93 Gojal 307-17
mujaheddin 40 National Museum of Pakistan 164 Hon Pass 354
Multan 128-33, 129 national parks 68-9 Irshad Pass 316
Murree 91-2 Ayub National Park 80 Khunjerab Pass 307-17, 308
Central Karakoram National Park Kilik Pass 360-1, 360
000 Map pages 68, 286 Lowari Pass 219-20
000 Photograph pages Chitral Gol National Park 68-9, 228 Malakand Pass 207
Deosai Plains National Park 69 Margalla Pass 88
Index (P-S) 427
INDEX
Kalasha valleys 225 shopping 148-9 cycling 393
trekking 337 tourist information 144-5 hitching 391
Peshawar 190-200, 191, 192, 195, travel to/from 149 KKH 237, 240-1
201 travel within 150 Lahore 102
accommodation 196-7 NWFP 189
attractions 193-6 R Punjab 96
food 197-8 rabies 399 Quetta 145
internet access 193 radio 365 Sindh 159
medical services 193 Rahim Yar Khan 126-7 trekking 339-40
Old City 193-4 Rahman Baba 194-6 women travellers 380
tourist information 193 Rahman, Sheik Mujibur 32, 35, 36 Sahiwal 135
travel to/from 198-9 Raikot Bridge 267 Saidpur village 79
travel within 200 Rajah Bazaar 79-80 Saidu Sharif 209-12, 210
Petroglyphs 267 Rama Lake 268-9 salinity 70
Phander 283-4 Ramazan (Ramadan) 61, 371 salt mines 138
phonecards 377 Raminj 316 Salt Range, the 138
photography 375 Rati Gali Sar 185 Sandeman, Robert 142, 153, 154
Pirali 318 Rawalpindi 71-93, 77, 78 Sarykol Pamir 321
Pishmal 216 accommodation 80-3 Sassi 286
planning 15-18, 369 activities 80 Satpara Lake 290-1
health 395-7 attractions 79-80 Schaller, Dr George 65, 67, 69
holidays 372 drinking 85 sea crossings 385-8
itineraries 19-25 entertainment 85 Sehwan Sharif 176
trekking 331 food 84-6 Shah, Bulleh 52
plants 67-8 history 72 Shah Faisal Mosque 77
poetry 52-3 internet access 73 Shah Jahan Mosque 175
politics 12, 26-40, 47-8 medical services 73 Shahbaz Garhi 206
pollution 69-70, 400 shopping 85-6 Shahgai Fort 200
polo 275, 276, 7 tourist information 77 Shahi Masjid (Grand Mosque) 225
Poonch district 186 travel to/from 86-7 Shaigiri 270
population 42-6 travel within 87-8 Shakarparian 77
postal services 375-6 Red Fort 184 Shandur Cup (Polo Festival) 222,
pottery 56 refugees 37, 44, 46 370
poverty 50 registration 378 Shandur-Hundrup National Park
protected areas 68-9, see also religion 46-8 284
national parks Buddhism 26, 188-9, 237 Shandur Pass 276, 284
public holidays 372 Islam 41, 46-8, 238 Shangla Pass 214
Punial 283 Ismailis 310 Shankardara 213
Punjab 94-138, 95 Shiites 46 Sharakpur Sharif 121
history 95 Sufism 47 Sharan 254
Punjabis 44 Sunnis 46 Sharda 185
428 I n d e x ( S -T )
Sharif family 38-9 Ziarat of Shah Abdul Latif 176 Thol 297
Sharif, Nawaf 39 Ziarat Rahman Baba 194-6 Thor 265
Shatial 263 Shuthmarg 316 Thowar 286
Shelakui 347 Shutinbar Nala 296 Threadnet Hunza programme 304
Sher-e-Sabz 316 Siachen Glacier 36, 293 Three-Immortals Caves 330
Sherqila 283 Sibi 152-3 Timargarha 218
Shigar 291-2 Sibi Mela 152 time 377
Shimshal Valley 313, 5 Sibi Museum 153 Xinjiang time 318
Shimshal village 313 Sikanderabad 296-7 tipping 373
Shina 410-11 Silk Road 237-8 toilets 377-8
Shinkiari 256 Sinakkar 271 tourist information 378
ship graveyard 174 Sindh 157-80, 158 tours 335
Shishi Valley 222 Sindhis 36, 37, 45 traditions 41-2
Shogran 253 Singhal 283 train travel
INDEX
INDEX
U Naltar Valley 281-2, 281 Xinjiang 324
Uch Sharif 127-8 Neelam Valley 185
Udegram 213 Palas Valley 262 Y
Ultar Meadow 305, 354 Rumbur Valley 231-2 Yarkand 330
Upal 322 Rupal Valley 270 Yarkhun Gol 234
Urak Tangi 150 Shimshal Valley 313, 5 Yasin 283
Urdu 403-5 Shishi Valley 222 Yazrich 316
Uyghur 411-12 Yunz Valley 311-12 Yunz Valley 311-12
vegetarian travellers 61 Yusuf Has Hajib 325-6
V visas 378-9
vacations 372 registration 378 Z
vaccinations 396 volunteering 379 Zamzama (Kim’s Gun) 107
valleys Zarabad 311
Alai Valley 259-61, 260 W Zia ul Haq, General 34-5
Astor Valley 268-70 Wagah 387 Ziarat 151-2
Bagrot Valley 271-2, 271 Wah Gardens 90 Ziarat of Shah Abdul Latif 176
Bar Valley 295-6 Wakhi 412-13 Zood Khun 316
Basho Valley 291-2 Wakhi Tajik people 307 zoos
Birir Valley 233 walking, see trekking Bahawalpur 123
Boibar Valley 313 water 398 Lahore Zoo 107
Bumboret Valley 232-3 water shortages 70 Lal Suhanra National Park 69
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