© Lonely Planet Publications

Contents
Pakistan Highlights 4 Punjab 94
LAHORE 96

Destination Pakistan 12 History

Orientation
96
97
Information 97
The Authors 13 Dangers & Annoyances
Sights
102
102
Activities 109
Getting Started 15 Courses 110
Tours 110
Festivals & Events 110
Itineraries 19 Sleeping 110
Eating 113

History 26 Drinking
Entertainment
115
116
Shopping 116
The Culture 41 Getting There & Away
Getting Around
117
119
AROUND LAHORE 120
Food & Drink 58 Wagah
Hiran Minar
120
120
Nankana 121
Environment 63 Sharakpur Sharif 121
Changa Manga
Wildlife Reserve 121
Islamabad SOUTHERN PUNJAB 121
& Rawalpindi 71 Bahawalpur 121
History 72 Lal Suhanra National Park 125
Orientation 72 Cholistan 125
Information 73 Bhong Mosque 126
Sights 77 Uch Sharif 127
Activities 80 Panjnad Head 128
Tours 80 Multan 128
Festivals & Events 80 Dera Ghazi Khan
(DG Khan) 133
Sleeping 80
Eating 83 Around Dera Ghazi Khan 134
Drinking 85 Harappa 134
Entertainment 85 Pakpattan 136
Shopping 85 Faisalabad 136
Getting There & Away 86 Lahore to Islamabad 137
Getting Around 87
AROUND ISLAMABAD
& RAWALPINDI 88 Balochistan 139
Margalla Pass 88 QUETTA 142
Taxila 88 History 142
Wah Gardens 90 Orientation 142
Hasan Abdal 90 Information 144
Murree & the Galis 90 Dangers & Annoyances 145
10 CONTENTS

Sights 145 Rohri 179 History 220

Activities 145 Kot Diji 180 Accommodation 222
Sleeping 146 Drosh & the Shishi Valley 222
Eating 147 Chitral Town 222
Azad Jammu
Drinking
Entertainment
148
148
& Kashmir 181 Around Chitral Town
Garam Chashma
227
228
Shopping 148 Muzaffarabad 183 Kalasha Valleys 228
Getting There & Away 149 Neelam Valley 185 Upper Chitral 233
Getting Around 150 Jhelum Valley 185
AROUND QUETTA 150 Bagh, Poonch, Kotli
& Mirpur Districts 186 Karakoram
Hanna Lake & Urak
Valley 150 Highway 235
Hazarganji-Chiltan North-West HAZARA 244
National Park
Ziarat
150
151
Frontier Province 187 Haripur & Havelian 245
PESHAWAR 190 Abbottabad 245
AROUND THE REGION 152
History 191 Thandiani 249
Quetta to Sibi 152
Orientation 191 Mansehra 249
Sibi 152
Information 192 Kaghan Valley 251
Mehrgarh 153
Sights 193 To the Babusar Pass 255
The Afghan Border 154
Tours 196 Mansehra to Batagram 256
Quetta to Karachi 154
Sleeping 196 Batagram 256
Quetta to Dera Ghazi
Khan 155 Eating 197 INDUS KOHISTAN 257
The Makran 155 Shopping 198 Thakot to Besham 258
Getting There & Away 198 Besham 258

Sindh 157 Getting Around

AROUND PESHAWAR
200
200
Alai Valley
Dubair Valley
259
261
KARACHI 159 The Khyber Pass 200 Pattan 261
History 160 Darra Adam Khel 202 Around Pattan 262
Orientation 160 Kohat 203 Kayal Valley 262
Information 160 Bannu 203 Dasu & Komila 262
Sights 164 Dera Ismail Khan Dasu to Shatial 262
Activities 167 (DI Khan) 203 Shatial 263
Sleeping 168 Mardan 204 GILGIT REGION 263
Eating 170 Around Mardan 205
Darel & Tangir 263
Drinking 171 SWAT DISTRICT 207
Shatial to Chilas 265
Entertainment 171 History 208
Chilas 265
Shopping 171 Mingora & Saidu Sharif 209
Chilas to Gilgit 267
Getting There & Away 172 Around Mingora
& Saidu Sharif 213 Astor Valley
Getting Around 173 & Nanga Parbat 268
Khwazakhela
AROUND KARACHI 174 & Shangla Pass 214 Haramosh Valley 271
Manghopir 174 Upper Swat 214 Bagrot Valley 271
Chaukundi 174 DIR DISTRICT Gilgit Town 272
THE INTERIOR 174 & THE LOWARI PASS 217 Around Gilgit 280
Karachi to Hyderabad 174 Chakdara 217 Naltar Valley 281
Hyderabad 175 Around Chakdara 218 Punial, Ishkoman, Yasin &
Around Hyderabad 176 Timargarha 218 Ghizar 282
Great Thar Desert 176 Dir Town 218 BALTISTAN 284
Hyderabad to Sukkur 176 Around Dir 219 The Gilgit to Skardu Road 286
Moenjodaro 176 Lowari Pass 219 Skardu 286
Sukkur 179 CHITRAL DISTRICT 220 Around Skardu 290
 CONTENTS 11

Deosai Plains 291 Safety on the Trek 339

Shigar 291 Responsible Trekking 340 Directory 364
Khaplu 292 Health 341
Hushe & Masherbrum
Views 293
CHITRAL & GHIZAR
Gokhshal An & Doni An
341
342
Transport 382
HUNZA & NAGYR 294
Donson Pass
Gilgit to Chalt
Chalt
294
295
& Kundyak An
Thui An
344
345
Health 395
Chalt to Ghulmet 296 GILGIT & DIAMIR 346
Minapin
Aliabad
298
298
Diran Base Camp 346 Language 403
Fairy Meadow 348
Karimabad (Baltit) 299 NAGYR & HUNZA 349
Around Karimabad 305 Pakora Pass 350 Glossary 414
Ganish 306 Rakaposhi Base Camp 351
Upper Nagyr 306
GOJAL & THE
Rush Phari
Ultar
352
353
Behind the Scenes 417
KHUNJERAB PASS 307
Gulmit 308 GOJAL 355
Passu 310 Avdegar
Batura Glacier
355
356
Index 421
Shimshal Valley 313
Passu to Sost 313 Shimshal Pamir 357
Sost & Afiyatabad 314 Pamiri 359 World Time Zones 430
Chapursan Valley 315 Kilik & Mintaka Passes 360
BALTISTAN 361
Misgar
The Khunjerab Pass
316
317 Humbrok 362 Map Legend 432
THE ROAD TO KASHGAR 317
The Khunjerab Pass to
Tashkurgan 318
Tashkurgan 318
Tashkurgan to Kara Kul
Kara Kul
320
320
Regional Map Contents
Kara Kul to Kashgar 321
Kashgar 322
Around Kashgar 330

Karakoram Hwy p236

Trekking in
Northern Pakistan 331 North-West
Trekking in
Northern
Pakistan
Suggested Itineraries 332 Frontier p333
Province
GETTING STARTED 334 p188 Azad Jammu
& Kashmir
When to Trek 334 Islamabad & p182
Rawalpindi
What Kind of Trek 334 p72

What to Take 336

Punjab
Maps 336 p95

Costs & Money 337

Balochistan
Permits 337 p141
ON THE TREK 337
Daily Routine 337 Sindh
p158
Guides & Porters 337
Sleeping & Eating 339
Women Trekkers 339
© Lonely Planet Publications
12 C O N T E N T S

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 © Lonely Planet Publications
12

Destination Pakistan
Pakistan has been on the brink of being tourism’s ‘next big thing’ for more
years than we care to remember. It’s a destination that has so much to offer
visitors, from some of the highest and most spectacular mountain ranges
in the world to the architectural glories of the Mughal empire, and ancient
bazaars to soul-spinning musical mystics. But every time the country seems
to be gearing up to refresh the palates of travellers jaded with last year’s hip
destination, world media headlines send things off the rails – again.
No matter the attractions, tourism in Pakistan has always been some-
thing of a hard sell. A glance at the map shows the country living in
a pretty difficult region: always-unruly Afghanistan to one side, Iran
to another, and a border with India running through the 60-year-old
fault line of Kashmir. But since the events of 9/11, Western pundits
have increasingly been wondering if Pakistan isn’t just living in a tough
neighbourhood, it is the tough neighbourhood.
Pakistan and political stability have never been particularly happy bed-
fellows. President Pervez Musharraf, who seized power in a 1999 coup,
looked to have an unassailable position until relatively recently. Selling
himself as a bulwark against radical Islamism on one hand and the old cor-
rupt elites on the other, he turned himself into a key player in Washing-
ton’s ‘War on Terror’ and was rewarded with soft loans and military aid.
FAST FACTS In 2007, everything was thrown into disorder. An attempt to sack the
Population: 164,741,900 country’s chief justice resulted in a red-faced retreat in the face of mid-
(2007 estimate) dle-class protests. At the same time, domestic Islamists stepped up their
Population under 14: bloody campaigns in the wake of the deadly storming of Islamabad’s Red
36.9% Mosque. Pakistan’s army had already found itself fighting to a standstill
in the lawless Tribal Areas along the Afghan border, and later quelling
Adult literacy: 63% related violence in the Swat Valley. It signed the short-lived Waziristan
(men), 36% (women) Compact that negotiated a peace – of sorts – with Pakistani Taliban, but
Infant mortality rate: 68 ultimately showed that having once given official government sanction
per 1000 live births to such radicals, it was now holding a tiger by its tail.
Gross Domestic Product At publication time, it was anyone’s guess how Musharraf’s
per capita: US$2600 attempts to pull things together would play. The imposition of a state of
emergency curtailed the press and judiciary, and soon after being lifted,
External debt: 55%
the country was rocked by the assassination of Benazir Bhutto, recently
of GDP
returned from exile to take her place again in Pakistani politics. Such a high-
Unemployment rate: profile murder presaged a potentially very troubled future for Pakistan.
6.5% (plus substantial But against this background, there is another Pakistan, a world away
underemployment) from the headlines. Although conservative, Pakistanis are by nature a
Main exports: textiles welcoming and hospitable people to foreigners, trying to get by in the
(garments, cotton cloth, face of indifference from their government and occasional hostility from
yarn), rice, leather, sport- the outside world. High politics is of less interest than jobs and the cost
ing goods, carpets of cooking oil and flour. As such, travellers are usually met with genuine
interest and enthusiasm. The scams and hustle you might experience in
Main imports: petroleum
heavily travelled India are nowhere to be seen here. Instead, look forward
& petroleum products,
to spontaneously offered cups of tea and conversations about cricket.
machinery, chemicals,
You’ll feel like you have the country to yourself. Attractions that would
transportation equipment
have been splashed over the glossy pages of newspaper travel supple-
Ranking on UN Human ments are almost empty. While enthusiastic travel advice comes tinged
Development Index: 134 with official government travel advisories, you’ll need to keep one eye on
(out of 178) the news before booking your ticket – but once here, you’ll realise that
Pakistan really is one of the world’s best-kept travel secrets.
 13

The Authors
SARINA SINGH Coordinating Author, Getting Started, Food & Drink,
Islamabad & Rawalpindi, Directory, Glossary
After finishing a business degree in Melbourne, Sarina bought a one-way
ticket to India where she completed a corporate traineeship with the Shera-
ton before working as a journalist. After four years in the subcontinent
she returned to Australia, pursued post-graduate journalism studies and
wrote/directed an award-nominated documentary that premiered at the
Melbourne International Film Festival. Sarina has worked on several dozen
Lonely Planet books and has written for many other publications including
National Geographic Traveler; further details at www.sarinasingh.com.

Life on the Road

Unforeseen deviations from planned paths have been the highlight of my subcontinental travels…
Many years ago, on arrival at an Islamabad hotel, an apologetic receptionist ushered me to the ‘bar’,
handed me a fizzless lemonade and assured me my room would soon be ready. As fate would have it,
I was sitting next to an arms dealer who had just sold a cache of weapons to a mujaheddin warlord up
north. The next day I found myself in Peshawar’s Khyber Bazaar, where a rendezvous had been arranged
with ‘Mr Billy’, a middle-aged Pashtun mechanic who would take me to the warlord’s hideout for an
interview. The hideout was a ramshackle warehouse near the Afghanistan border, and upon entering I
was greeted with frosty glares from several dozen armed-to-the-hilt freedom fighters, all sitting cross-
legged around their leader. The warlord was fidgeting with an AK47 for what seemed like an eternity
before abruptly flinging the gun aside, pointing directly at me and asking, ‘You want chicken and chips?’
Four hours and three drumsticks later we had talked about everything from herbal hair-loss remedies
to his plans for creating a ‘collective global nation’ called Islamistan, which he reckoned would be up
and running in three decades, give or take a decade.

LINDSAY BROWN Itineraries, Environment, Azad Jammu & Kashmir,

Karakoram Highway, Transport
A former conservation biologist and publishing manager of outdoor activity
guides at Lonely Planet, Lindsay has trekked, jeeped, ridden and stumbled
across many a mountain pass and contributed to Lonely Planet’s South India,
India, Nepal and Bhutan guides, among others.

LONELY PLANET AUTHORS

Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are independent,
dedicated travellers. They don’t research using just the internet or phone, and they don’t take
freebies in exchange for positive coverage. They travel widely, to all the popular spots and off
the beaten track. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafés, bars, galleries,
palaces, museums and more – and they take pride in getting all the details right, and telling it
how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.
14 T H E A U T H O R S lonelyplanet.com

PAUL CLAMMER Destination Pakistan, History, Culture, Sindh,

Balochistan, North-West Frontier Province
Paul grew up in Cambridge, and trained and worked as a molecular biolo-
gist before swapping test tubes for the vicarious thrills of tour leading and
travel writing. He’s spent several years kicking around the Muslim world
from Casablanca to Kashgar, including a stint with a jeep safari company
in northern Pakistan, and even finding time to skip over the Khyber Pass to
have dinner with two Taliban ministers a fortnight before the 9/11 attacks.
In the region, he’s worked on Lonely Planet’s India and Central Asia guides,
as well as writing the first edition of Afghanistan.

RODNEY COCKS Punjab

Rodney has recently been based in Kandahar, Afghanistan and northern Sri
Lanka. He has lived, worked and travelled through the Middle East, Central
Asia, Southeast Asia, North America and Europe. During his time as a UN
Military Observer in East Timor and as a member of the UN de-mining team
in Iraq, he narrowly survived two terrorist acts – the Bali bombings and the
attack on the UN headquarters in Baghdad – and assisted the injured and
dying in the horrific aftermaths. He was named the 2005 Victorian of the
Year for his humanitarian service. Rodney has written for Lonely Planet’s
Afghanistan guide and its website. He is the author of Bali to Baghdad and
Beyond.

JOHN MOCK & KIMBERLEY O’NEIL Trekking in Northern Pakistan

The intrepid husband-and-wife team of John and Kimberley have logged
more than 10,000km trekking in the Karakoram and Hindukush during the
past 25 years. They have crossed more than 60 major passes, traversed 50
glaciers, and reconnoitred several new trekking routes in Chapursan, Shim-
shal and neighbouring Wakhan. Northern Pakistan has been like a second
home to them, where they lived for many years working as consultants on
ecotourism, protected area management and wildlife conservation. John also
conducted his doctoral research in the Wakhi communities of Gojal. John
and Kimberley are the award-winning authors of Hiking in the Sierra Nevada
and their beloved Trekking in the Karakoram & Hindukush.
 15

Getting Started
Apart from the usual challenges of subcontinental travel – the people-packed
public transport, tedious bureaucracy and crush of human and mechanical
traffic in urban hubs – Pakistan is a relatively straightforward country in
which to travel, although you should always keep informed about the latest
safety status – see p16.
Pakistani people are known for their hospitality towards visitors, although
solo women may feel more at ease travelling with a companion in the more
conservative regions (see p379). Unlike in neighbouring India, the tourism
industry here remains comparatively small. While this means many places
are less geared to foreign travellers, it also translates to exceedingly less
tourist hype. Indeed, compared with India, Pakistan has far fewer touts and
scams, less-rapacious taxi and autorickshaw drivers, and lacks the irksome
commercial hullabaloo found in many of India’s tourist centres.
In regards to pre-trip planning, make sure you give yourself a few weeks to
sort out immunisations, visas and other documents you may require. You will
derive greater benefit from your trip if you read up about Pakistan (especially
the religious and cultural framework) as much as possible beforehand. Doing
so will heighten your appreciation of the country’s extraordinary sights and
traditions, lower your chances of making a cultural faux pas, and better equip
you to hold more-informed conversations with locals.

WHEN TO GO
Climate is the key factor in deciding when and where to travel in Pakistan.
There are generally three seasons: cool (around October to February), hot
(around March to June) and wet/monsoon (around July to September).

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…

Getting a visa (p378).
Seeking advice about vaccinations (p396); some must be administered over a period of time.
A travel insurance policy covering you for treks, cycling and other planned activities (p372).
Nonrevealing clothes (women and men – see the boxed text, p43). Dressing respectfully
wins a warmer reception in Islamic Pakistan – women need a headscarf for mosques and
elsewhere (p379).
A valid International Driving Permit (IDP), a carnet de passage and other necessary paper-
work (p386) for those travelling overland with their own vehicle.
Sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat for sun protection.
Quality earplugs – street din can drive you nuts, especially in the bigger cities.
Flip-flops (thongs) for communal/unsavoury bathrooms and a showercap (for budget
hotels).
A flashlight (torch) for unlit streets and if the electricity fails.
Tampons – sanitary pads are widely available but tampons are not.
Repellent to ward off bothersome little bloodsuckers (but mosquitoes aren’t a problem at
the height of summer and winter).
Appropriate clothes, footwear and equipment for trekking (p336).
A sense of adventure – Pakistan is well and truly off the tourist treadmill.
 16 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • I s I t S a fe ? lonelyplanet.com

There are, however, distinct regional variations, described further in some

of the regional chapters. The trekking season starts in late April and finishes
by late October, peaking from mid-June to mid-September – for further
details see p334.
In all seasons, the ‘continental’ climate can mean big day-to-night tempera-
ture differences. Roughly speaking, Sindh, Balochistan, Punjab and the south of
North-West Frontier Province (NWFP) are most pleasant to visit from around
November to February (it can get chilly at night, particularly in December
and January). Note that Balochistan gets bitterly cold at the height of winter
and may even see snow in January. Northern NWFP, the Northern Areas and
Azad Jammu & Kashmir (AJK) are generally at their best from around May
to October (although occasionally stormy), but are more or less snowbound
in winter, when accessibility can be difficult. The monsoon sweeps in from
around July through September, bringing bouts of heavy rain and oppressive,
sauna-like humidity. The tail end of the southwest monsoon dumps steady rain
across the central and eastern plains and as far north as Swat, Indus Kohistan,
the Kaghan Valley and AJK. But the monsoon does not reach much further
and, despite random thunderstorms, this is not a bad time to go north.
June, July and August are generally the peak months for domestic tourism,
when many locals flock to the resort towns in northern Pakistan to escape
the sweltering heat of the plains. Three especially popular areas – the Kaghan
Valley, Upper Swat and the Galis – can get exceptionally crowded during
See Climate Charts (p367) this time. For those travelling to or from China, be aware that the Khunjerab
for more information. Pass is officially closed to travellers from 15 November until 1 May. Heavy
snow may even close it sooner and for longer.
You may wish to incorporate a festival or three into your itinerary (see
p370); keep in mind that during Ramazan (Ramadan), business hours can
be affected and most eateries close during daylight hours – for further
information read the boxed text on p61.
Officials advise against travelling to Pakistan during the country’s major
national election campaigns, as travel routes may experience disruptions
and political expression can sometimes take a volatile turn.

IS IT SAFE?
At the time of writing Pakistan was in a state of political uncertainty, with
the country placed under a state of emergency – for further details read p34.
Given the thorny political climate, travellers are strongly urged to monitor
events in Pakistan and seek current advice about how safe it is to travel in
the country.
For political and tribal reasons there is restricted access to a number of
potentially volatile areas, which are either off limits altogether for foreign-
ers or require a permit, and possibly an armed guard, to visit them. Details
are provided in the regional chapters of this book; also see p369. If you are
unsure whether an area you intend visiting is a no-go zone, before setting
off always seek the most up-to-date advice from as many reliable sources as
you can, such as the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC)
and local authorities.
Always remember that safety issues are not static. Things can swiftly
change and it would be irresponsible of us to give prescriptive safety advice,
especially in an increasingly unpredictable world. The most judicious way
of making your journey through Pakistan as incident-free as possible is for
you to take the responsibility of keeping abreast of the latest safety status
of the region(s) you intend visiting. Apart from contacting the PTDC and
other relevant authorities, ways of doing this include regularly reading local
newspapers, garnering advice from locals and fellow travellers, and reading
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • C o s t s & M o n e y 17

your country’s government travel advisory (although these advisories can

often be overly cautious). And of course, you should exercise the same cau-
tion and common sense that you would when travelling anywhere in the
world – this includes not wandering alone (especially in isolated areas) after
dark, avoiding night travel, and keeping your valuables well concealed (eg
in a secure moneybelt worn under clothing). You’re also strongly advised
to steer clear of any public demonstrations and large gatherings (eg certain
religious events). In terms of personal presentation, you are going to be much
better received if you respect cultural sensibilities by dressing and behaving
appropriately – this applies to both women and men (see p43; women should
read the boxed text, p379).
For important dedicated regional safety information read the ‘Travelling
Safely in…’ boxed texts in the Sindh (p159), Balochistan (p140), Punjab (p96),
Azad Jammu & Kashmir (p181), North-West Frontier Province (p189) and
Karakoram Highway (p237) chapters.

COSTS & MONEY

Pakistan is an economical country in which to travel. In terms of accommo- HOW MUCH?
dation and restaurants there are options to fit all budgets, although greater Mars Bar Rs 30
variety is found in the larger cities. Transport, excluding domestic air travel, is Internet connection (per
relatively inexpensive and foreign tourists/students are even given a generous hour) Rs 20 to Rs 30
train-ticket concession of 25/50%. Conversely, foreigners are often charged a
higher admission fee than locals for sights such as museums (exact charges Toothpaste (small) Rs 25
are provided in the regional chapters). to Rs 35
So how low can you realistically go? If you opt for rock-bottom accom- Packet of chips (25g)
modation, eat a minimal amount at the cheaper restaurants, sightsee at Rs 25
places with no, or low, entry fees and travel by public bus, you’re roughly Music CD from Rs 90
looking at between Rs 400 and Rs 500 per day. It is important to remember
that costs vary nationwide (especially accommodation), so the best way of
ascertaining how much money you’ll require is to peruse the relevant regional
chapters of this book.
Due to the downward spiral in foreign tourism in recent times, some
midrange and many top-end hotels will give discounts if requested. Don’t
be shy to ask for one; top-end hotels have been known to slash room rates
by as much as half during lean business periods. Hotel rates, especially in
northern Pakistan, may be subject to seasonal fluctuations and regional
variations – for specific room rates, see the Sleeping sections throughout
this book. Many hotels raise their tariffs annually, so when devising your
budget it’s not a bad idea to factor in possible increments on the prices
provided in this book.
When it comes to filling your belly, shoestringers will be happy to know
that there are plenty of ultra-cheap street eateries, while the bigger cities
offer a decent selection of mid- and upper-priced choices as well. For further
information about Pakistan’s dining scene see p58.
For details about what currency to bring, and other money issues, read
p373, and for trekking costs see p337.

TRAVEL LITERATURE
Three Cups of Tea, by Greg Mortenson and David Oliver Relin, relays a
courageous man’s odyssey to provide schooling, especially for girls, in
remote parts of Pakistan and Afghanistan, where fundamentalism often
feeds on poverty.
Kathleen Jamie’s Among Muslims is an engaging insight into the
Northern Areas, with a captivating window into facets of everyday life
usually off limits to male visitors.
18 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s lonelyplanet.com

The Dancing Girls of Lahore: Selling Love and Saving Dreams in

Pakistan’s Ancient Pleasure District, by Louise Brown, takes the reader
into the family life of a dancing girl who works in Lahore’s red-light Heera
Mandi area.
Jonny Bealby’s For a Pagan Song recounts an intrepid search for the
Hindukush’s pre-Islamic culture, following in the footsteps of Kipling’s
The Man Who Would Be King, through Afghanistan and Pakistan to the
Kalasha Valleys of Chitral.
Magic Bus is Rory MacLean’s witty retracing of the old hippy trail from
Istanbul to Kabul, Kathmandu to Goa. It perceptively examines changes in
the countries en route (including Pakistan) and the metamorphosis from
spaced-out intrepids to modern backpackers.
Amritsar to Lahore by Stephen Alter is an insightful account of the
author’s journey across and beyond the border that divides (more than
just physically) Pakistan and India.
An old classic, To the Frontier by Geoffrey Moorhouse, is an enter-
taining and well-written account of travels through Sindh, Balochistan,
Punjab and NWFP.
Where the Indus Is Young by Dervla Murphy is the Irish author’s vivid
story of a winter she spent in Baltistan, travelling on foot and horseback
with her six-year-old daughter Rachel.

INTERNET RESOURCES
Hi Pakistan (www.hipakistan.com) News and views, fashion, music, showbiz and more.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) As well as lots of handy links, there’s the popular Thorn
Tree forum, where you can exchange information with other travellers to Pakistan.
Online Newspapers (www.onlinenewspapers.com/pakistan.htm) Links to a wide range of
Pakistani newspapers including Dawn and Frontier Post.
Pakistan Railway (www.pakrail.com) National rail site: everything from train timings and seat
availability to freight rates and saloon rental.
Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC) (www.tourism.gov.pk) Official
government tourism site, with national travel-related fodder.
Pakistani Virtual Library (www.southasianist.info/pakistan) Has links to a variety of topics
including history, sport, trekking and even regional weather forecasts.
 19

Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTES
UP THE KHYBER PASS & ALONG One to two weeks
THE GRAND TRUNK ROAD
This renowned mountain pass to Afghanistan conjures images of lawless,
gun-totin’ Pashtuns. The truth is that it’s perfectly safe – thanks to your
armed Afridi gunman – but it’s no less exciting for that.
Start in Pakistan’s cultural capital, Lahore (p96), with its Mughal archi-
tecture, tempting eateries and sights such as the Lahore Fort and Badshahi
Mosque. From Lahore join the rush along the Grand Trunk Rd through the
barren Salt Range (p138) to Islamabad and Rawalpindi (p71). Pause in Taxila
(p88) to see the wonders of Buddhist Gandhara on your way to pulse- It’s about 500km
quickening Peshawar (p190). A stroll through its Old City bazaars is an from Lahore to the
eye-opening essential. Organising a permit and armed guard is part of the
thrill of travelling up the Khyber Pass (p200). The official entrance to Khyber famed Khyber Pass,
Agency is at Jamrud Fort (p200). From here on houses are mini forts and via massive forts,
the road (and railway) climbs and winds into the Suleiman Range. The last Buddhist ruins,
main town before the border is Landi Kotal (p201), an erstwhile smugglers Pashtun bazaars
bazaar, still with a few gunshops. Here the working railway stops, though and the nation’s
the ruins of tracks, bridges and tunnels continue to the border. Your stop,
however, is just short of the border at Michni checkpoint (p201). capital.

NORTHERN
AREAS

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

Takht-i-Bahi
Michni Khyber
Checkpoint Pass
AZAD JAMMU
PESHAWAR & KASHMIR
Landi Kotal
Taxila ISLAMABAD
Ali Masjid Jamrud
Fort Rawalpindi

e
ang
tR
PUNJAB Sal

LAHORE
 20 ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY Two to four weeks/Islamabad to Kashgar

The Karakoram Highway (KKH) is a road of many moods that can be
biked, bused, jeeped or walked. Most people take the ubiquitous minibuses
that zoom up and down the highway for ridiculously cheap fares.
It’s a short hop from Islamabad (p71) to Havelian (p245), the official
though nondescript start of the KKH. Continue on to leafy Abbottabad
(p245), or Mansehra (p249), gateway to the gorgeous Kaghan Valley (p251).
Though the road spectacularly hugs the Indus River gorge, the initial
stretch to Gilgit is frequently done without a stop to avoid the occasionally
frosty reception of conservative Indus Kohistan (p257). From Gilgit (p272),
Travel 1300km the valley and the options open up. Detour to Skardu (p286) in Baltistan,
through stunning the base for the Karakoram’s best trekking; relax under soaring peaks in
scenery, beside the Minapin (p298), or head up the Gilgit River valley towards the Shandur Pass
Indus and Hunza (p284) and the road to Chitral. After catching a polo match in Gilgit head
Rivers and over north to Hunza headquarters at Karimabad (p299), the popular hang-out
for travellers, with trekking, sightseeing and good food. From Karimabad
a high mountain it’s only a short hop to Gulmit (p308) and Passu (p310); these friendly vil-
pass into Central lages, touched by glaciers and surrounded by good trekking, are not to be
Asia. Allow yourself missed. Adventurers should find time to explore the concealed valleys of
at least two weeks Shimshal (p313) and Chapursan (p315). Organise your cross-border transport
at Sost (Afiyatabad) (p314) and head to the high point of the journey –
to savour the
Khunjerab Pass (p317). Greet China in Tashkurgan (p318), before staying in a
sights and meet yurt at Kara Kul Lake (p320) on the way to Kashgar (p322) – one of Central
the locals. Asia’s most colourful bazaars.

Kashgar

Kara
Kul
Lake

Tashkurgan
CHINA

Khunjerab
Chapursan Valley Pass
Sost (Afiyatabad)
Passu Shimshal
Valley
Karimabad
Gulmit
Shandur
Pass Minapin
Khunjerab
National Park
Gilgit
PAKISTAN

Indus
Kohistan Skardu

n
gha Con
trol
Ka alley Line
of
V

Mansehra
Abbottabad
Havelian

ISLAMABAD
Rawalpindi
 ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes 21

BORDER TO BORDER, FROM One week to one month/

IRAN TO INDIA Taftan to Wagah
Moving from Mirjavé, on the Iranian side, to the dusty border post of Taftan
(p387) in Pakistan, you cross over from the mystic Middle East to the spir-
itual subcontinent. Once formalities have been completed, make a beeline
east for Quetta (p142), the first town of any size you’ll reach in Pakistan with
great shopping and eating. Kick back for a couple of days in this bazaar-busy
frontier town before making your way northeast to Pakistan’s cultural capital,
Lahore (p96). En route you could divert to Multan (p128) for a few days to
explore its many historic mausoleums. If you’ve got time on your side, make Take between a
the trip south of Multan to Bahawalpur (p121), jumping-off point to Uch Sharif
(p127) – site of some notable shrines – before setting off to Lahore. Once in week and a month
Lahore, allow yourself at least four or five days to appreciate this city’s fine to follow the
Mughal architecture and multitude of sights. From Lahore, journey north for classic overland
a few weeks to explore the unbeatable beauty of Pakistan’s Northern Areas. route for 1614km
Or, if you’re itching to get straight to India, catch a bus from Lahore to the
through the heart
Pakistan–India border at Wagah (p120), making sure you coordinate your
crossing into India with the captivating closing-of-the-border ceremony of the country from
(see p120). border to border.

NORTHERN
AREAS

NORTH-WEST
FRONTIER
PROVINCE

AZAD JAMMU
& KASHMIR

ISLAMABAD

PUNJAB
LAHORE
Wagah

Multan
QUETTA

Bahawalpur
Taftan Uch Sharif

BALOCHISTAN

SINDH

ARABIAN
SEA
 22 I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d

ROADS LESS TRAVELLED

GILGIT TO CHITRAL & THE KALASHA VALLEYS One week
VIA THE SHANDUR PASS
When it’s not hosting the famous polo tournament, the Shandur Pass is a
little-visited barren plain, but if you have a jeep at your disposal it’s a spec-
tacular way to link several of northern Pakistan’s premier destinations.
From the KKH hub of Gilgit (p272) head up the stunning valley of the
Gilgit (aka Ghizer) River – a swirling glacial-melt torrent in summer and a
brilliant blue cascade in autumn. There are plenty of reasons to linger and
take a detour, and the old valley kingdoms of Punial (p283), Yasin (p283) and
Ishkoman (p283) provide endless trekking opportunities. It’s best to break
the journey before the pass; choose Khalti Lake (p283), a natural dam on the
Ghizar River with excellent fishing, or serene Phander (p283), overlooking
Spend a week a patchwork of fields and the gently meandering river. From Phander the
travelling 340km road deteriorates, and the going gets tough. Accommodation options thin
out at Teru (p284), about 5km from Barsat (p284), the last village before the
through stunning pass. After Barsat enter the stunning Langar Valley (p284), complete with
mountains and grazing yaks, before crossing the 3810m Shandur Pass (p284). Over the pass,
hidden valley the road descends quickly through crumbling terrain to the village of Sor
kingdoms, and Laspur, before circling north around Buni Zom (6550m) to the Mastuj River
catch a polo match valley and, eventually Chitral town (p222). Chitral is the base for walks in the
Hindukush, particularly the isolated valley sanctuaries of Rumbur (p231),
if you can. Bumboret (p232) and Birir (p233), home to the Kalasha.

G E
AN
R
H
S
U Ishkoman
K R A N G E
U R A J
D D U
N I N
I H Yasin
H Ri ver
iver
tuj

Teru Gh i zar R Gi
as

lgi
M

Khalti t R
Sor Laspur Barsat Phander Lake Punial ive
Chitral
r
Langar
Town Shandur Pass Valley
Kalasha (3810m) Gilgit
Ri ve r

Valleys
l

NORTHERN AREAS
itra
Ch

NORTH-WEST
FRONTIER
PROVINCE

AZAD JAMMU
& KASHMIR
 I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d 23

THE KKH TO SWAT VIA THE One to two weeks/Besham to Khwazakhela

SHANGLA PASS
The little-traversed Shangla Pass links the historical Swat district
with the famous KKH and offers glimpses of everyday life in rugged
Indus Kohistan.
Although Besham (p258), on the KKH, and Khwazakhela (p214), in the Swat
Valley, have little to interest travellers, they are linked by a quiet mountain
road that was an earlier incarnation of the KKH, before the highway was
continued south from Besham to Mansehra. The road hugs the bottom of It’s only about
a narrow valley from Besham to the village of Alpurai, every twist and turn 65km between
revealing village life – water-powered mills, washing, fishing and playing – Besham and Khwa-
focused around the swift-flowing tributary of the Indus River. Shangla Pass zakhela and 98km
(p214) at 2134m is open year-round, except during occasional heavy snows. between Mingora
After an interrogation at the police checkpoint, take in the fine views to Swat
and back east to the Pir Panjal Range. and Kalam, but you
The busy bazaar of Khwazakhela is just over half an hour from Swat’s can spend a week
main hub, the twin towns of Mingora and Saidu Sharif (p209), with a museum or two exploring
and nearby ruins of its Buddhist past. After visiting the sites, head upstream villages and relax-
to spend a few relaxing days in the Upper Swat Valley – the erstwhile hippy
ing in resort towns
hangout of Madyan (p214) or the hotel resort of Kalam (p216) with its cool
mountain air, postcard scenery and fish-filled streams. Return to Mingora, in this historic and
where the onward options include Chitral, Peshawar and Islamabad. scenic district.

NORTHERN
AREAS

Kalam
y
Valle

Madyan
Swat

Khwazakhela Besham
Shangla
Pass
Mingora KK
H
Saidu Sharif

NORTH-WEST
FRONTIER
PROVINCE

AZAD JAMMU
& KASHMIR

ISLAMABAD

PUNJAB
 24 I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d

CHITRAL TO PESHAWAR VIA THE KALASHA One to two weeks/

VALLEYS & THE LOWARI & MALAKAND PASSES Chitral to Peshawar
Chitral town (p222) is connected to the rest of Pakistan by just two roads: one
to Gilgit over the Shandur Pass and one to Swat via the Lowari Pass. From
the Swat Valley you need to cross another high pass, the Malakand, to reach
the frontier city of Peshawar.
After exploring the Upper Chitral Valley and the splendid Chitral Gol
National Park (p228), head south to Rumbur (p231), Bumboret (p232) and
Birir (p233), stronghold of Pakistan’s Kalasha, who still practise their pre-
Islamic religion. You can even trek between the Kalasha valleys. The road
continues south through the army town of Drosh and the sublime Naghar
Fort (p220), overlooking a bend on the Chitral River. Just before the 3118m
Lowari Pass (p219; usually open from June to October) the road suddenly
From a beauti- zigzags up a steep mountainside in 48 switchbacks. The view from the top
is superb but the weather usually isn’t, so after signing the register, start
ful mountainous the sedate decline towards Dir town (p218), where there are comfortable
national park, past lodgings. The Swat Valley is reached at Chakdara (p217) and the road south
ancient Buddhist crosses the 1500m Malakand Pass (p207) towards Mardan (p204), the centre
ruins to a dynamic for exploring several Buddhist ruins, including Tahkt-i-Bahi (p206). From
Mardan take the road to Charsadda, and the ruins of Pushkalavati (p207),
frontier town, this
and then push on to the frenetic frontier city of Peshawar (p190) on the
route covers about Grand Trunk Rd. Peshawar has lively bazaars, a hint of danger, and it’s a
350km. base to visit the Khyber Pass and/or Afghanistan.

Chitral Gol
National Park
NORTHERN AREAS
Chitral Town
Kalasha
Valleys

Drosh
Naghar Fort
Lowari Pass
(3118m)
Dir Town

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
Chakdara
Malakand Pass
(1500m)
Tahkt-i-Bahi
Mardan
Pushkalavati Charsadda

Peshawar
AZAD JAMMU
& KASHMIR
ISLAMABAD
 I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s 25

TAILORED TRIPS
WALKS ON THE WILD SIDE Three weeks/Gilgit to Karimabad
Pakistan’s Karakoram and Hindukush offer some of the most dramatic
trekking on earth. The treks in the Trekking chapter can be strung to-
gether in several combinations – see p332 for further itineraries. This
itinerary incorporates some of the best treks that are accessed from Gilgit
and Karimabad, popular hubs on the KKH.
Gilgit (p272) is a great base for launching into Baltistan, Diamir and
Nagyr, organising guides and for resting between treks. First head to
Skardu (p286) to tackle the easy, two-day trek out of Hushe (p293) to the
serene summer pastures of Humbrok (p362). Return to Skardu then Gilgit.
From Gilgit organise transport to Chirah
in the Bagrot Valley and from there start a Ultar
Diran
three-day return trek to the Diran Base Camp Rakaposhi Base Camp
Base Camp Humbrok
(p346). Again from Gilgit, head a short dis-
tance along the KKH to Minapin (p298), eas-
ily accessed from the KKH, and the start of
the magnificent trail to Rakaposhi Base Camp
(p351); a three-day return trek. North of
Minapin, Karimabad (p299) is another com-
fortable base for trekking. From the top of
Karimabad town you can take the short and
steep track up to the meadow below Ultar
(p353); here you can spend the night with a
grinding glacier before returning to espresso
coffee in Karimabad the following morning.

DIVINE EXCURSION One to two weeks/Lahore to Uch Sharif

The whole of Pakistan is dotted with magnificent shrines and mosques, but
this itinerary visits those of Lahore and southern Punjab, home to some of
the country’s finest examples. In Lahore (p96), start your sacred ramble at
the phenomenal 17th-century Badshahi Mosque before checking out the
city’s other sacred legacies including Jehangir’s Tomb, Nur Jahan’s Tomb,
the Mosque of Wazir Khan, the Gurdwara of Arjan Dev and the Shrine of
Data Ganj Bakhsh Hajveri; the last has superb qawwali (Islamic devotional
singing) each Thursday (see boxed text, p104).
After taking in Lahore’s sacred sights, head
southwest to the historic city of Multan (p128).
Here you’ll find scores of intriguing shrines
including the mausoleums of Sheikh Rukn-i-
Alam, Baha-ud-Din Zakaria and Shams-ud-
Din Sabzwari. From Multan, catch a bus south
to Bahawalpur (p121), an easy-going town that Lahore
Multan
makes a convenient base to visit the shrines
of Uch Sharif (p127) – the Mausoleum of Bibi Uch Sharif Bahawalpur
Jawindi is particularly eye-catching. If you’ve Bhong
Mosque
got time (or are en route to Sindh) don’t miss
the extraordinary 20th-century Bhong Mosque
(p126), situated further south, not far from
the Sindh border.
© Lonely Planet Publications
26 lonelyplanet.com

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
26

History
Both a nuclear power and important cricketing nation, Pakistan has existed
as an independent country for little more than 60 years, but has been play-
ing an important role in the historical epic of the Indian subcontinent for
millennia. It has been the birthplace of the world’s first urban civilisation,
home to one of the great flowerings of Buddhism, and cornerstone of the
Mughal empire. Born in 1947 as a homeland for Muslims, it has been a
frontline state in the Cold War and is currently a key location in the strug-
gle against violent Islamism. Understanding Pakistan’s past is essential to
Visit www.storyofpaki understanding its future trajectory.
stan.com for timelines
and short biographies of EARLY CIVILISATIONS
many of Pakistan’s key When the Europeans were dressed in animal skins and the USA was known
political figures. only to the native Indian tribes, the men and women who lived on the land
that is now Pakistan were part of one of the most sophisticated societies on
earth. The ancient Egyptians, who lived around the same time, may have
been better at building pyramids, but when it came to constructing cities,
the Indus people were well ahead.
Nothing was known of the Indus civilisation until the 1920s, when excava-
tions at Harappa and Moenjodaro revealed cities built of brick. Subsequent
research has shown that the Indus people flourished around 2500–1500 BC.
They had a population of roughly five million and a sophisticated bu-
reaucracy with standardised systems for weights and brick sizes. While the
evidence is sketchy, many scholars believe that a priestly elite governed the
There is an excellent Indus people.
introduction to the Indus The Indus civilisation probably declined due to the drying of the Indus
civilisation on www Valley. There followed centuries of economic decline and foreign conquest.
.harappa.com. Among The first to arrive were the Aryans, whose Vedic religion laid the basis for
other things, the site Hinduism as it is practised today. They were followed by Alexander the
has articles on the latest Great. When you travel in northern Pakistan and, in particular, places such
attempts by scholars to as the Kalasha valleys, you may notice people with relatively pale skin, fair
decode the Indus script. hair and blue eyes. According to popular theory these are the descendants
of Alexander the Great’s troops.
After Alexander, a series of imperial powers flexed their muscles in South
Asia. The Mauryas were notable for controlling virtually all the subcontinent
and promoting Buddhism. Taxila, one of Pakistan’s best-preserved Buddhist
sites, was founded by the Mauryans as a university. The Kushans followed
close on the Mauryans’ heels, entering from Afghanistan. They took the
Greek culture left behind by Alexander’s descendants and fused it with
the art of India to produce their sublime Gandharan art. For the first three

5000 BC 2500–1500 BC 563–486 BC

Earliest evidence of village life The Indus Valley civilisation The life of Siddhartha Gautama
in Pakistan, in Mehrgarh in thrives in Moenjodaro and (Buddha), the founder of Bud-
Balochistan – one of the world’s Harappa, founding the sub- dhism. Born to royalty in what is
most important Neolithic sites. continent’s first urban cultures, now modern Nepal, he gave up
Its inhabitants had domes- with a sophisticated social privilege to live a life of asceti-
ticated crops and livestock, structure, agriculture, trading cism and meditation, receiving
simple pottery and mudbrick networks and writing system enlightenment under the Bodhi
houses. (yet to be fully deciphered). Tree in Bodhgaya (India).
lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• The Mughals 27

centuries AD, the Kushans held sway from Taxila to Kabul and left behind
a host of ruins, particularly in the Peshawar and Swat Valleys. Only one-third of Moen-
In AD 711 an Arab general, Mohammed bin Qasim, arrived in Sindh. He jodaro’s old city has been
and his 6000 cavalrymen were to have a major impact because they brought excavated. Exposure of
with them the religion of Islam. After the Arabs had made inroads from the the site to the elements
south, in the 11th century the Turkish rulers of Afghanistan, led by Mahmud has led to its severe
of Ghazni, brought the same message of Islam from the north. Muslims were deterioration.
then established as the ruling class, although it was not until the arrival of
the Mughal dynasty that there was a truly formidable Islamic government
able to leave a lasting architectural and cultural impression.

THE MUGHALS
The Mughals were the undisputed masters of the subcontinent through
the 16th and 17th centuries. Their empire was one of only three periods in
history during which the subcontinent has come under sustained, unified
rule. (The others to pull off this feat were the Mauryas and the British.) The
first Mughal emperor, Babur, used the traditional route to invade: from
Central Asia. Having taken Kabul he conquered Delhi in 1526. The dynasty
he founded endured for more than three centuries. The other great Mughal
emperors included Akbar (1556–1605), Shah Jahan (1627–58) and Aurangzeb
(1658–1707). Because they were Muslims, the Mughals remain a source of
great pride in Pakistan. Under Akbar and his son Jehangir, Lahore was the
capital of the empire, and remains home to some of the Muhgals’ greatest
architectural legacies, including the Badshahi Mosque, the Lahore Fort and
Jehangir’s Tomb. All combine the Mughals’ skill for working on a grand scale
and their great use of arches, domes, carvings and towers. Urdu was the court
While the Mughals are today most often celebrated for their artistic legacy, language of the Mughals.
they were also excellent administrators who managed to concentrate power Although the national
in the central government. Their sophisticated bureaucratic systems became language, it’s the mother
particularly highly developed under Akbar. He appointed officials on the tongue of less than
basis of merit rather than family rank. He also prevented the establishment 10% of the population.
of rival power bases by paying loyal officials in cash rather than land. While Pakistan’s courts work in
many of the Mughal rulers were hostile to their Hindu subjects, Akbar took English.
a different view. He saw that the number of Hindus in India was too great to
subjugate. Instead, he integrated them into his empire and allowed Hindus
to reach senior positions in the government and the military.
Like imperial powers before and after them, the Mughals became over-
stretched. By the time of Aurangzeb’s death, their empire had become so big
it was largely ungovernable. Slowly but steadily the Mughals’ power ebbed
away. Their administrative systems were weakened by debilitating and very
violent succession struggles and by the decadence of court life. Local power-
brokers in the provinces seized their opportunity and, complaining of Muslim
domination and too many taxes, mounted a series of armed rebellions. Faced

327–325 BC 273–232 BC AD 100–500

Alexander the Great invades, Ashoka founds the Mauryan Flourishing of Gandhara, the
marching over the Hindukush empire that stretches from Buddhist kingdom born from
towards the Indus on his way to Bengal to the borders of Persia. the ruins of the Mauryan
conquer India. Returning home, Filled with remorse for the vio- empire. Under King Kanishka’s
his army is almost wiped out in lence that won the empire, he rule (128–51) Gandharan culture
the desolation of Balochistan’s embraces Buddhism, dedicat- undergoes its golden age, trad-
Makran Desert. ing himself to its propagation ing with Rome and China from
across his realm. its capital in Peshawar.
 28 HISTORY •• The British lonelyplanet.com

with these challenges, the Mughals increasingly became rulers only in name.
Technically, though, the Mughal empire existed right up until 1857, when the
British deposed the 19th and last Mughal ruler, Bahadur Shah II.

THE BRITISH
The first Britons to arrive in India were traders from the British East India
Company. They came by sea at the beginning of the 17th century and their
goal was not conquest but profit. Initially they restricted themselves to
business, doing deals with the Mughal emperors and local rulers. Gradually,
though, the relationship changed. In time British factories were established
For the latest news on and when faced with disputes they began to apply British rather than local
Pakistan take a look at law. As the profits grew, the traders became increasingly involved in local
www.dawn.com. Dawn, politics. Matters came to a head in 1757, when armed men fighting for
which is published in the British East India Company under Robert Clive clashed with the chief
Karachi, is the longest- (nawab) of Bengal, Siraj-ud-daula. That Clive won the encounter should
established English- have been of little surprise. Many of the nawab’s soldiers had been bribed
language newspaper in to throw away their weapons.
Pakistan. The British soon started behaving like imperialists, determined to take
territory. The first part of present-day Pakistan to come under British control
was Sindh in 1843. Next the British tackled the Sikh rulers from the rich and
fertile land of Punjab before moving on to the perennially ungovernable
North-West Frontier Province and Balochistan.
The first major challenge to British rule came in 1857, when much of north
and central India rose up against their imperial masters. The Indian Uprising
has variously been called the Sepoy Rebellion, the Great Mutiny and the
First War of Independence. The Indian troops rallied around the enfeebled
Mughal ruler Bahadur Shah, before finally being suppressed. The uprising
was a shocking, brutal affair and left deep scars on both sides.
A major consequence of the revolt was the abolition of the British East
India Company. The British crown imposed direct rule through its gov-
ernor general or viceroy, and Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India.
Significantly, the British made a compromise with the 565 princely rulers
who controlled 40% of the land on the subcontinent. Instead of demanding
that they surrender full sovereignty, the British allowed the princely rulers
to keep control of their internal affairs if they professed loyalty to the Crown
and surrendered all rights to conduct foreign or defence policy.
The British governed through an elite cadre of bureaucrats. Recruitment
to the Indian civil service was competitive and initially restricted to British
candidates. By 1910 a few Indians had been appointed to the civil service, a
development that reflected the gradual shift of power in India. At the start
of the 20th century, the demands for more self-governance were becoming
louder and the British started to make concessions. First, some Indian coun-
cillors were appointed to advise the viceroy. Indians were then given limited

711 1008 c 1300–1400

In response to attack on Arab Sultan Mahmud of Ghazni The Central Asian steppes visit
traders by pirates, Arab general invades from Afghanistan, nearly 200 years of chaos on
Mohammed bin Qasim invades smashing Hindu power in northern Pakistan with the inva-
Sindh. In response to Arab con- Punjab. Mahmud launches a sions of Genghis Khan’s Mongol
quests, the mainly Hindu and total of 17 expeditions to north hordes (1221) and the armies
Buddhist population begins to India, expanding his empire of Tamerlane (1398). Both leave
convert to Islam. Muslim rule and permanently introducing devastation in their wake.
eventually extends to Multan. Islam to the region.
lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • T h e B i r t h o f Pa k i s t a n 29

roles in elected legislative councils (although the electorate was restricted to

a small group of upper-class Indians). Increasingly, well-educated Indians
made ever more strident demands for self-governance and found themselves
in conflict with the British. Rudyard Kipling’s classic
In Pakistan today there is still evidence of the British legacy. The law courts novel Kim follows the
in Lahore, for instance, blend architectural styles from East and West, and story of the orphan who
the Mall (also in Lahore) is another lasting reminder of the Raj (British gov- becomes involved in
ernment in India). The British imperialists also left behind their traditional spying for the British. It’s
legacies: a railway network and the English language. an evocative depiction
of both the Raj and the
THE BIRTH OF PAKISTAN Great Game.
Two men are generally credited with having secured the existence of Pakistan.
The first was Allama Mohammed Iqbal, a poet and philosopher from Lahore.
Iqbal proposed the creation of a separate Muslim state on those parts of the
subcontinent where there was a Muslim majority.
While Iqbal articulated the demand for a Muslim state, it took
Mohammed Ali Jinnah to put it into practice. The British were initially
reluctant to divide the subcontinent, but through a mixture of brilliant ad-
vocacy skills and sheer obstinacy Jinnah got his way. Jinnah is a universally
revered figure in Pakistan. You will see his image and his name depicted on
buildings all over the country. He is often referred to as Quaid-i-Azam or
the Quaid (Leader of the People or Great Leader).
At the turn of the century the Hindus and Muslims had been united in their
struggle against the British. The Indian National Congress, which was formed
in 1885 to put demands to the British, included members from both faiths.
Nevertheless, in 1906 the Muslims founded another political organisation,
the All-India Muslim League, ‘to protect and advance the political rights of
the Muslims of India and respectfully represent their needs and aspirations
to the Government’.
For a time the emphasis remained on unity. In 1916 Congress and the
Muslim League agreed to the Lucknow Pact, under which they were to
campaign for constitutional reform together. After the British massacred a
crowd of unarmed protestors at Amritsar in 1919, the demands for greater
self-governance turned into an insistence on full independence. The British
responded with limited concessions, increasing the number of Indians in
the administration and in self-governing institutions.
The Indian leaders could see that they were making progress. But as an
independent India became a realistic prospect, tensions between the Muslims
and Hindus grew. Mohammed Iqbal first raised the issue of a separate Muslim
homeland in 1930. He argued that India was so diverse that a unitary form of
government was inconceivable. Religion rather than territory, he said, should
be the foundation of national aspirations. It was the first coherent expression
of the ‘two-nation theory’ to which Pakistan still adheres.

1526 1556–1605 1615

Babur, a princely Muslim Lahore flourishes as the court British East India Company
descendant of both Genghis of Akbar the Great, under embassy to the Mughal court
Khan and Tamerlane, reaches whom the Mughal empire of Jehangir wins it a favoured
out from his capital in Kabul undergoes its most sustained trading status, and a perma-
to conquer India, founding the period of peace and greatest nent foothold on the subconti-
Mughal empire in the process. cultural flowering. The rebuilt nent, which it rapidly expands
Lahore Fort dates from this from its base in Bengal.
period.
 30 H I S T O R Y • • T h e B i r t h o f Pa k i s t a n lonelyplanet.com

THE GREAT GAME

The term ‘The Great Game’ was immortalised by Rudyard Kipling in his novel Kim. It refers to
the 19th-century imperial competition between Russia and Britain to win control of Central Asia.
Britain sought to secure India, knowing that most invaders historically had arrived from the north.
Russia, meanwhile, feared that if the British managed to establish themselves in Central Asia they
could threaten the motherland itself.
At the start of the 19th century much of Central Asia was unknown territory. On both sides a
motley bunch of explorers, emissaries and officers on ‘shooting leave’. These young imperialists
risked, and sometimes lost, their lives drawing secret maps of the region and trying to win the
confidence of local rulers. The first British contacts with Gilgit, Hunza and Chitral all arose out
of ‘the game’.
As Russia managed to get the upper hand in Central Asia, the Great Game increasingly fo-
cused on Afghanistan. In the late 1830s, Britain wooed Kabul’s amir (ruler), the charismatic Dost
Mohammed, who was obsessed with recapturing the Afghan city of Peshawar from the Sikhs.
Meeting with no adequate response, he then made overtures to Russia, so the British decided
to depose him by arms and installed Shah Shujah in his place. But Shujah’s puppet regime and
the British soldiers were never popular. In 1841 a mob stormed the British compound in Kabul
and sliced the British representative Alexander Burnes into small pieces. The British army made
a humiliating retreat at the loss of 15,000 lives, and Dost Mohammed returned to power.
The second Anglo-Afghan war occurred in 1878, when Afghanistan opened diplomatic channels
with Russia. Britain sent an army back to Afghanistan and occupied Kabul, but again, a massa-
cre of British and Indians officers occurred in the city. Ultimately realising that occupation was
impossible, the British withdrew again, placing Dost Mohammed’s grandson Abdur Rahman on
the throne. Britain and Russia finally agreed that Afghanistan would be a buffer between them
and settled its borders for their own convenience in 1893.
A century later, the ‘New Great Game’ was back in play. Russian troops finally made it to Kabul
only to suffer their own humiliating defeat, while the post-9/11 landscape has left Afghanistan
(and Pakistan’s Tribal Areas) as key playing fields in the latest round of imperial pretensions.

Iqbal gave no name to his proposed nation. That was done by a student
at Cambridge University, Chaudhry Rahmat Ali, who suggested it be called
Pakistan. Taken as one word Pakistan means ‘Land of the Spiritually Clean
and Pure’. But it was also a sort of acronym standing for Punjab, Afghania
Shortly after Partition, (North-West Frontier Province), Kashmir, Sindh and Balochistan.
Mountbatten predicted By the late 1930s, Jinnah, who had previously argued for Hindu-Muslim
that East Pakistan would unity, was convinced of the case for Pakistan. At its annual session in Lahore
break away within a on 23 March 1940, the Muslim League formally demanded that the Muslim
quarter of a century. He majority areas in northwestern and northeastern India should be autonomous
was right, with one year and sovereign. With Congress strongly opposed, it was an issue only London
to spare. could resolve. The man given the task was Lord Louis Mountbatten, who was
appointed Viceroy of India in 1947. Shortly after arriving in Delhi he became

1747 1757–1857 1801

Afghan king Ahmad Shah Dur- Following the Battle of Plassey, Ranjit Singh becomes maharaja
rani sweeps across northern the British East India Company of the newly united Sikhs and
Pakistan and India, capturing begins its military expan- forges a powerful new king-
Lahore and Kashmir, sacking sion across the subcontinent. dom from his capital in Lahore.
Delhi and dealing another Princely states are allowed to The Afghans are kicked out
blow to the rapidly contracting exist in semi-independence, of Punjab, eventually losing
Mughal empire. while the Mughal crown is control of Peshawar.
reduced to its court at Delhi.
lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • T h e C re a t i o n o f B a n g l a d e s h 31

convinced that the demand for Pakistan would not go away and that, despite Freedom at Midnight
all its objections, Congress would accept it as the price for independence. describes how and
Creating two new independent nations out of one imperial possession was why the British left
not easy. Assets were divided, and a boundary commission appointed to de- the subcontinent. The
marcate frontiers. Cyril Radcliffe, a civil servant who had never visited India, authors, Larry Collins
bisected the complicated and deeply connected border areas in little over a and Dominique Lapierre,
month. British troops were evacuated and the military was restructured into examine the parts played
two forces. Civil servants were given the choice of joining either country. by Gandhi, Mountbatten,
As the moment of Independence approached, huge numbers of people Nehru and Jinnah. It
went on the move. Hindus, fearful of living in the new Pakistan, headed east. reads like a thriller.
So too did the Sikhs. In the period before the British extended their influence
to Punjab and Kashmir, the Sikhs had been the dominant power, controlling
territory right up to the Afghan border. By 1849 the British military had
defeated them and now, with Partition looming, they decided to move and
make their future in India. The Muslims, meanwhile, were also leaving their Sir Richard Attenbor-
villages and making for their new homeland. ough’s award-winning
It was the largest mass migration in modern times. Around eight million film Gandhi stars Ben
people gave up their jobs, homes and communities. Most travelled on foot Kingsley. It follows the
or by train and in doing so risked their lives. Many never made it, becoming life of the man who
victims of the frenzied violence triggered by Partition. The scale of the kill- advocated nonviolence as
ing was terrible: it’s estimated that up to a million people were butchered in the people of India tried
communal violence. Trains full of Muslims, fleeing westwards, were held up to rid themselves of their
and slaughtered by Hindu and Sikh mobs. Hindus and Sikhs fleeing to the British rulers.
east suffered the same fate. For those who crossed the rivers of blood that
separated the two new nations and survived, the feeling of relief was intense.
And on 14 August 1947, Pakistan and India achieved independence.
While the new leaders in India were able to pick up where the British left
off, their counterparts in Pakistan had to build state institutions from scratch.
The task was made all the more difficult because the one man in Pakistan
who could command unquestioning loyalty – Jinnah – died 13 months after
Independence. His successors were both incompetent and corrupt. It took
them nine years to pass Pakistan’s first constitution. When General Ayub The film Jinnah is
Khan took over in a coup in 1958, most Pakistanis were relieved that the Pakistan’s answer to
politicians were being kicked out of office. Gandhi. Many Pakistanis
grumbled when the
THE CREATION OF BANGLADESH role of Jinnah was given
At Independence, Pakistan was already a divided country, with Bengali East to the British actor
Pakistan cut off from the main body of West Pakistan by the great mass of Christopher Lee because
India. Tensions between the two parts were immediately significant. East he was better known for
Pakistan was more populous and ethnically homogenous as well as being playing Dracula.
poorer, having been cut off from the traditional Bengali capital of Calcutta
(now Kolkata). Even before Independence many Bengalis had argued that the
British should create two new Muslim countries. Pakistan’s new rulers, few of

1843 1849 1857–58

General Charles Napier exceeds After the instability following An army revolt in Bengal sparks
his orders to annex Sindh and the death of Ranjit Singh, and the Indian Mutiny or First War
establish British rule. Recog- the fighting of two short wars, of Independence that rapidly
nising his zeal, he telegrams the East India Company adds engulfs British India. Brutal
London with a one-word Latin Punjab and North West Frontier massacres are perpetrated by
confession, ‘Peccavi’: ‘I have region to its territories. both sides before the British
sinned’ (Sindh). regain control.
 32 HISTORY •• The Kashmir Dispute lonelyplanet.com

whom were Bengalis, wanted a strong central government and just one na-
tional language – Urdu. The Bengalis insisted that Bengali should have equal
status and complained that the central government, the federal bureaucracy
and the main military establishments were all located in West Pakistan.
For General Niazi’s ver- The political party that best articulated the frustration and resentment felt
sion of why East Pakistan by many East Pakistanis was the Awami League, and in 1963 it elected a leader
split away, read The who would ultimately lead East Pakistan to independence. Sheikh Mujibur
Betrayal of East Pakistan. Rahman began by crystallising the Bengali’s demands into ‘Six Points’. He
Niazi admits no fault accepted that there should be one Pakistan but added that the federal govern-
and puts all the blame ment should be restricted to handling defence and foreign affairs and have no
on his military superiors. tax-raising powers. He said the two wings of Pakistan should have separate
Unconvincing history but currencies and East Pakistan should be allowed its own paramilitary force.
interesting detail. These demands were utterly unacceptable to West Pakistan, which be-
lieved that the Six Points would leave the centre with so little authority that a
united Pakistan could not survive. Despite long negotiations, a compromise
could not be found and by 1971 the tensions between East and West Pakistan
reached snapping point. On 25 March the military ruler in Islamabad, General
Yayha Khan, ordered his army to take military control of East Pakistan.
The Pakistani army was split in two. West Pakistani soldiers took to the
task of restoring order in East Pakistan with relish. But most of the East
Pakistani soldiers mutinied. Yayha believed that the civilian population in
East Pakistan would remain largely neutral. It didn’t. The Bengali population
stood behind Mujibur Rahman, who by this time had been arrested. The
West Pakistani troops responded by raping, murdering and even massacring
whole villages. Around half a million Bengalis were killed.
At first the West Pakistani army got the upper hand, not least because
the Bengali resistance fighters – the Mukti Bahini – suffered from a lack
of arms. A low-level struggle might have gone on for years had not India
decided to intervene. Initially, Delhi believed that the West Pakistani army
would be able to cow the East Pakistanis into submission. But as the resist-
ance continued, a consensus emerged in Delhi that an independent East
Many books on Kashmir Pakistan (Bangladesh) was not only in India’s interests but also achievable.
are hopelessly biased. For Half a million Indian troops were ordered into East Pakistan to support the
an objective account as to claim of Bengali nationalism.
why Kashmir has become India enjoyed complete air superiority, and on the ground could rely on the
a battleground between highly motivated Mukti Bahini (generally estimated at 100,000). Lieutenant
two nuclear rivals, read General Niazi, the Pakistani commander, never stood a chance. He was out-
Victoria Schofield’s numbered, outgunned and operating in territory with a hostile population.
Kashmir in Conflict. In December 1971 Niazi surrendered and Bangladesh was born.

THE KASHMIR DISPUTE

Throughout the British Raj the leaders of the 565 princely states kept nomi-
nal control of their territories. For decades this amounted to nothing more

1858 1889 1893

The British Raj is born, with The Gilgit Agency is formed, The Durand Line is drawn
India coming under direct rule bringing the Northern Areas by the British to establish its
of the British crown. Bahadur under nominal British control. borders with Afghanistan. With
Shah, the last Mughal emperor, Exploration of the high passes little notion of tribal geogra-
is tried for treason and exiled to is driven by the Great Game, phy, the Pashtun tribes are di-
Rangoon. and British fears of Russian vided in two. Repeated Afghan
expansion towards India. governments have refused to
formally accept the border.
lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• The Kashmir Dispute 33

than a constitutional nicety because in practice they were subservient to the

British. But in 1947 the princely rulers had the power to decide whether they
joined India or Pakistan.
The choice was especially difficult for Maharaja Hari Singh of Jammu and
Kashmir. His state bordered both India and Pakistan. And while he was a
Hindu, his population was predominantly Muslim.
The maharaja was uncertain what do to, but many Pakistanis were deter-
mined that the predominantly Muslim Kashmiris should join Pakistan. In
October 1947 Pashtun tribesmen from North-West Frontier Province tried
to force the issue by invading Kashmir, with the tacit consent of the new In 1947 Pakistan’s
Pakistani authorities. But the strategy backfired when the maharaja requested founder, Mohammed Ali
armed assistance from India. Jinnah, predicted that
India agreed to help but there was a price. The maharaja would have to ‘Kashmir will fall into
agree that Kashmir joined India, not Pakistan. The maharaja did opt for our lap like a ripe fruit.’
India but the timing of his decision has been highly controversial ever since. He could not have been
Pakistan argues that he signed the Instrument of Accession under duress more wrong.
after Indian troops had illegally entered Kashmir. The Indians maintain the
signature came before their troops were deployed.
As a result of the fighting in 1947, and the crushing defeat of the 1965
war, Pakistan currently occupies around one-third of Kashmir, which it
calls Azad (Free) Kashmir, and India occupies the other two-thirds. (The
situation is further complicated by the fact that, after 1947, China occupied
an area called Aksai Chin in Indian-occupied Kashmir. India’s objection
to this was one of the factors behind the 1962 Indo-Chinese War, in which
India was heavily defeated.)
Since 1988 there has been an insurgency in Kashmir that has resulted in
the loss of tens of thousands of lives. Kashmiri Muslims and Islamic mili-
tants from Pakistan, Afghanistan and further afield have tried to force the
Indian security forces out of Kashmir. The Indians have refused to budge
and have committed chronic human-rights abuses, while Pakistani proxies
have attempted to neutralise (by force or otherwise) the secular Kashmiri
nationalist movement. In recent years the insurgency has become dominated
by non-Kashmiri fighters based in Pakistan, and India frequently accuses
Pakistan of ‘cross-border terrorism’. The two countries have held sporadic
talks on the issue but have never come close to reaching a solution. President Musharraf was
In 1999 Pervez Musharraf (still just a soldier) ordered some of his troops born in the Indian capital
into Indian-occupied Kashmir. Unnoticed, they took several hundred square Delhi. When he was four
miles of territory. Tactically, the Kargil campaign, as it became known, was a years old, he moved to
brilliant operation. Strategically, it backfired. The international community, Pakistan with his parents
fearful that the dispute could escalate into a nuclear exchange, demanded during Partition.
a Pakistani withdrawal. Ultimately India poured in numerous men and
munitions to the Kargil area, forcing the Pakistanis to abandon the high
Himalayan peaks they had occupied.

1906 1940 1947

All-India Muslim League is Muslim League adopts its On 14 August, independent
founded at a conference in Lahore Resolution, demanding Pakistan is born. Punjab is
Dhaka. Partly a response to the creation of a separate na- partitioned in great bloodshed,
the Hindu-dominated Indian tion for Muslims called Paki- while Kashmir’s unresolved sta-
National Congress party, it aims stan. Campaigns throughout tus almost immediately sparks
to represent India’s Muslims, the 1940s for partition are led the first India-Pakistan War,
who comprise one-fifth of the by Mohammed Ali Jinnah. with Pakistan seizing one-third
population. of Kashmiri territory.
 34 HISTORY •• Military Misrule lonelyplanet.com

Kashmir remains a highly emotive issue for Pakistan. Prime Minister

Nawaz Sharif’s attempt to sack Musharraf as head of the army as a result of
A weighty volume, The the Kargil fiasco led to the coup that brought the general to power – a prime
India-Pakistan Conflict: example of the central role Kashmir has come to play in Pakistani politics.
An Enduring Rivalry by TV Each day the newspapers and state-controlled TV pour out propaganda on
Paul is nevertheless a key the issue. For more than 60 years the Kashmiri people have been caught
text for unravelling post- between India and Pakistan’s intense rivalry. By now most Kashmiris are
Partition tensions. sick of the fighting and given a choice would probably opt for independence.
But with both sides determined to hang on there is very little prospect they
will be given that choice.

MILITARY MISRULE
The two countries created from British India in 1947 went down quite
divergent routes. While India emerged as a robust democracy, Pakistan sat
Pakistan: Between Mosque under military rule for over half its existence. Pakistan was hampered by its
and Military by Husain comparatively weaker political and economic development at Independence,
Haqqani is a key work for and by the death of Jinnah the following year and his weak successors.
understanding the way The army has come to see itself as the defender of Pakistan’s honour, but
two key institutions have its record is far from glorious. If Pakistan is, as many Pakistanis believe, a
shaped modern Pakistani failed state, then the army must take a share of the blame. Consuming a dis-
politics. proportionate amount of government expenditure, and wielding significant
economic as well as political power, even in times of civilian rule the military
has interfered in foreign and domestic policy areas.
There have been four military rulers in Pakistan’s history. All were more
willing to grasp power than to give it up. The first was General Ayub Khan,
a Sandhurst-educated paternalist who believed the illiterate Pakistani masses
were not ready for Western-style democracy. After 11 years in power, he
Zulfi Bhutto of Pakistan by was forced out of office by mass protests in 1969. As a heavy drinker and
the American academic habitual womaniser, his successor, General Mohammed Yayha Khan, was
Professor Stanley hardly representative of the people he ruled. He offered hope to the nation by
Wolpert has become the organising Pakistan’s first-ever national elections. Widely accepted to have
standard work on the been the fairest that have ever occurred in the country, they asserted a Bengali
life of the country’s most political nationalism unacceptable to Yayha. His response was to send the
inspirational, complex tanks into East Pakistan in a bloody, yet unsuccessful war. India’s military
and, ultimately, flawed support for Bangladeshi independence led directly to Yayha’s downfall, and
political leader. a brief period of civilian government under Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto.
Bhutto was overthrown in 1977 (and later executed) by General Zia ul Haq.
If Yayha Khan was a bon vivant, Zia was a puritanical prude – and a disaster
for Pakistan. Propped up by American and Saudi largesse following the Soviet
invasion of Afghanistan, Zia grew the intelligence agency, Inter-Services
Intelligence (ISI), into one of the most powerful institutions in the country,
and an enabler of radical Islamism. On the domestic front, his most damaging
legacy was to impose his rigid, intolerant interpretation of Islam on Pakistan.

1948 1958 1959

Mohammed Ali Jinnah dies In response to an economic cri- Pakistan’s capital moves from
of cancer. Power effectively sis and associated social unrest, Karachi to the purpose-built
passes to his prime minister, General Ayub Khan declares city of Islamabad. The site
Liaquat Khan, who is himself as- martial law and takes over in is chosen for its central and
sassinated in 1951. Both events Pakistan’s first military coup. ethnically neutral location, and
jeopardise Pakistan’s early ‘Basic democracy’ is intro- to counter Karachi’s economi-
political development. duced, along with land reforms cally distorting effect on the
and economic liberalisation. national geography.
lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• Military Misrule 35

He introduced a series of hardline measures such as public floggings of thieves

and two-month prison sentences for people seen drinking, eating or smoking
during Ramazan (Ramadan). There is no reason to believe that General Zia
would ever have given up power voluntarily had he not been killed in 1988,
in an air crash that was almost certainly the work of saboteurs.
Pakistan’s fourth military (now civilian) ruler, President Pervez
Musharraf, is determined to undo Zia ul Haq’s legacy. He has publicly
The ‘mango theory’
opposed the Islamic militants, although he has taken mixed steps to chal-
of regime change in
lenge them, sending the army into the autonomous and radicalised Tribal
Pakistan is derived from
Areas along the Afghan border for the first time but then leaving the con-
the theory that Zia’s
troversial madrasah (Islamic college) system largely untouched for fear of
plane was blown up by a
provoking violent reactions. Having launched the Kargil war himself in
bomb hidden in a crate of
1999, he has continued to make an exception for Islamists fighting the
mangoes.
Indians in Kashmir.
Musharraf has faced a fundamental contradiction throughout his rule. A
man who assumed power illegally, and whose rule depends on military force,
Musharraf has argued that he alone can restore democracy and economic
stability. Yet military rule and democracy have never made good bedfellows
in Pakistan. Musharraf’s tolerance of press criticism and his progressive
ideas gave him early credibility at home. But Islamists and civil society
alike have pointed to the vast sums his government has received from the
USA as an ally in its ‘War on Terror’, and the contradictions in spreading
democracy by propping up army rule. The generals find it difficult to accept
that Pakistan’s military governments have been just as bad at economics as
the civilian ones.
While President Musharraf has consistently maintained that Pakistan’s
army is part of the solution to the country’s ills, only in 2007 did it become
apparent that the army might in fact be part of the problem. An attempt
to sack the Chief Justice, Iftikhar Chaudhry, led to a rare rebuke from the
courts, which was backed up by mass protests. The legality of Musharraf’s YesPakistan.com is
re-election as president months later was disputed, and although this led produced by Pakistani
to his final stepping down as army chief to wear civilian clothes, it was ac- expatriates in North
companied by the imposition of a state of emergency and crackdown on America. Its message
civil society, the media and the independent judiciary. Planned elections boards and articles cover
for January 2008 were thrown into further turmoil with the assassination many historical and
of former prime minister Benazir Bhutto, just months after her return topical issues.
from exile.
The army’s military record is about as bleak as its political one. From
the outset it has been unable to cope with the sheer size of its Indian rival.
Faced with an acute military imbalance, Pakistan’s first politicians made
defence expenditure their top priority. Yet even today Pakistan’s army is half
the size of India’s, with significantly fewer tanks and aircraft. Pakistan has
had four major military confrontations with India. The 1971 war resulted

1965 1966 1969

Skirmishes in Kashmir and East Pakistan’s fight for political General Yahya Khan takes
the disputed Rann of Kutch recognition steps up with Ben- over from General Ayub Khan.
in Gujarat (in India) erupt into gali leader Mujibur Rahman’s Martial law returns, but in an
the Second India-Pakistan War. publication of his Six Points, attempt to disentangle Paki-
Pakistan is heavily defeated fol- demanding economic, political stan’s complex constitutional
lowing the largest tank battles and military autonomy within and regional problems, national
since the WWII. the framework of Pakistani elections are swiftly promised.
federalism.
 36 H I S T O R Y • • D o m e s t i c Te n s i o n s lonelyplanet.com

GLACIAL WARFARE
No assessment of the Pakistani armed forces’ military performance would be complete without
consideration of the most hostile of all its battlegrounds: the Siachen Glacier in Kashmir. Some
of the forward posts are located at a bone-chilling 6000m above sea level. Temperatures drop to
-50ºC and blizzards can exceed 160km/h. The air is so thin that the artillery shells that the two
sides lob at each other follow unpredictable trajectories in the violent winds. In some places the
opposing troops are just 300m away from each other but the extreme cold claims more lives
than any fighting.
However brave the men who fight on Siachen may be, there is no escaping the fact that
they are engaged in a futile and outrageously expensive battle. It is estimated that both sides
commit over half a million US dollars to the conflict each day. Demilitarisation of Siachen is one
of the key sticking points of negotiations over Kashmir, with Pakistan refusing to give up its
(literally) high ground.

in Pakistan losing approximately one-fifth of its territory. The other three

clashes, in 1947, 1965 and 1999, all took place in Kashmir. On all three oc-
casions Pakistan started fights it was never in a position to win.

DOMESTIC TENSIONS
Domestic politics has undergone many challenges since Pakistani
The Siachen Glacier is the
Independence, irrespective of whether the leader of the day arrived through
highest battlefield on
the ballot box or by a coup. Despite the unifying banner of Islam, many of
earth. Pakistan and India
the deepest problems have arisen from different ethnic groups competing
have fought amid the
for a slice of political and economic power.
crevasses and avalanches
Of the five major ethnic groups in Pakistan (Punjabis, Pashtuns, Sindhis,
since 1984.
Baloch and Mohajirs), the Punjabis have the upper hand. Theirs is the richest
and most populous province and provides most of the army’s officer corps.
All the other national groups routinely complain of Punjabi dominance.
Apart from the Bengalis, who achieved independence in 1971, the most
sustained campaign of ethnic violence has come from the most unlikely
source: the nine million Mohajirs. In 1947 they were among Pakistan’s
keenest advocates. Most headed for the capital, Karachi, to secure official
government posts. Their impact on the city was enormous. By 1951 the na-
tive Sindhi community had been completely outnumbered; just 14% of the
city’s population spoke Sindhi, as opposed to 58% who spoke the Mohajirs’
language, Urdu.
Gradually, Pakistan’s traditional inhabitants reasserted themselves and
many Mohajirs were forced out of their government jobs. By the 1980s
the Mohajirs’ dreams of forging a new Islamic nation had been replaced
by bitter disillusionment expressed in increasingly militant politics. The
Mohajirs’ political party, the Mohajir Quami Movement (MQM), has always

1970 1971 1972

First-ever national elections are East Pakistan declares inde- Simla Agreement between
held in East and West Pakistan. pendence as Bangladesh in India and Pakistan attempts
Mujibur Rahman receives a response to continued political to normalise relations. The
huge mandate for eastern deadlock. Yahya Khan responds Kashmiri ceasefire line of the
autonomy, overwhelmingly by sending in the army and previous year is formalised as
rejected by Yahya Khan and the as India becomes embroiled, the ‘Line of Control’, and still
West Pakistan political elite. fighting spreads to Kashmir: the remains the de facto border
Third India-Pakistan War. between the two countries.
lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • D o m e s t i c Te n s i o n s 37

denied any involvement in bloodshed, but there is no doubt that the conflict
between the Mohajirs and the Sindhis did turn violent. At the height of the
troubles in the 1980s and early 1990s, Karachi became a byword for ethnic
violence. Pakistan’s central government did not make a serious attempt to
tackle the MQM until 1995, when the army launched a clampdown. It was
a brutal campaign with many extrajudicial killings. The MQM has been
forced into relative quiescence ever since, although violence again erupted
in 2007 with a murderous attack on a political demonstration, allegedly by
MQM supporters.
Preoccupied by their struggle with the Mohajirs, the Sindhis have always
been too weak to threaten the Pakistani state and make an effective demand
for independence. That is not to say they have entirely given up on the idea.
In 1983, for example, armed Sindhi nationalists took control of some small
towns and railway lines in Sindh, but the army, using helicopter gunships,
was soon able to disperse them.
Baloch nationalists have shown greater determination. Many Baloch never
wanted to join Pakistan in the first place. When the British departed, Kalat
(the largest of four princely states located in Balochistan) immediately de-
clared its independence. The new Pakistani government used troops to bring Afghanistan’s dispute
Kalat into line and on several occasions since then the army has used force to over the Durand Line
suppress armed revolts in Balochistan. The most significant began in 1973 meant it was the only
after Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto dismissed Balochistan’s provincial government. country to vote against
The fighting lasted four years and the army had to deploy no fewer than Pakistan’s accession to
80,000 troops. Coming so soon after the loss of Bangladesh, it was a battle the UN in 1947.
the Pakistan army had to win, which they did in bloody style. The recent ex-
ploitation of Balochistan’s gas reserves has prompted a resurgence of Baloch
attempts to gain political and economic autonomy, a movement that the
Pakistan government has again sought to solve by purely military means.
In the run-up to Independence, Pashtun nationalists opposed the creation
of Pakistan even more strongly than the Baloch. Their demand for their own
land called Pukhtoonkhwa (sometimes also referred to as Pashtunistan) is
not without historical justification. Before the British arrived the Pashtuns
lived as one nation. In 1893 the British divided the Pashtuns by drawing
the Durand Line, which today constitutes the border between Afghanistan
and Pakistan.
The strength of Pashtun nationalism has diminished in large part because
of the Pashtuns’ relatively strong representation in Pakistan’s central institu-
tions. While the Tribal Areas have been left to stagnate (and become a haven
for violent Islamism), the Pashtuns have been particularly active migrants
within Pakistan. The establishment of a large Pashtun community in Karachi,
for example, means many Pashtun families have a direct interest in the sta-
bility and continued existence of the Pakistani state. Despite having had the
strongest national movement in 1947, the Pashtuns have never presented a

1977 1979 1988

Following the re-election of Soviet army invades Afghani- General Zia is killed in a plane
Bhutto, General Zia ul Haq stan, heralding 10 years of crash. No cause has ever
overthrows the government in foreign largesse to Zia, which been revealed, ushering in
a coup, suspending the consti- he uses to turn Pakistan to- a proliferation of conspiracy
tution. A year later, Bhutto is wards radical Islamist politics. theories. New prime minister
tried for conspiracy to murder Throughout this time, Pakistan Benazir Bhutto becomes the
and, following a disputed becomes host to millions of first woman to lead a modern
verdict, is hanged. Afghan refugees. Muslim country.
 38 H I S T O R Y • • T h e B i g Fa m i l i e s lonelyplanet.com

THE BOMB
In May 1998 in Balochistan’s Chagai Hills, a series of nuclear tests confirmed Pakistan’s mem-
bership of the world’s most exclusive and dangerous club – countries with nuclear weapons.
It was an extraordinary achievement for a poverty-stricken country in which around half the
population is illiterate.
Pakistan had been obsessing about the bomb since the mid-1960s, when Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto
had declared: ‘If India builds the bomb, we will eat grass or leaves; even go hungry, but we will
get one of our own.’ Bhutto coined the phrase ‘Islamic Bomb’ to capture the idea, reflecting his
aspiration that his nuclear weaponry would be the pride of the Muslim world. India’s first nuclear
test in 1974 sparked the race in earnest, and there were national celebrations when Pakistan was
finally able to match its neighbour and rival: monuments in the shape of the Chagai Hills and
Shaheen-II missile are features of most major cities. International criticism was sharp, however,
and brought into even keener relief when the two countries stood on the brink of war over
Kashmir in 1999.
The father of Pakistan’s bomb is the nuclear scientist AQ Khan, operating from the Kahuta plant
near Islamabad with the aid of Chinese expertise. There was great alarm when it was revealed in
2004 that he had been the centre of a nuclear proliferation network, passing weapons technology
to Libya, North Korea and Iran, with tacit government agreement. Pakistan’s reaction to inter-
national concern was merely muted, placing AQ Khan under house arrest, but quietly lifting his
restrictions when the furore had died down. Despite international pressure, Pakistan has refused
the International Atomic Energy Agency access to Khan to question him on proliferation.

significant challenge to Pakistan’s central institutions. The reason is clear: to

a greater extent than the Sindhis, the Baloch and the Mohajirs, the Pashtuns
have been given a share in the country.
Pakistan: Eye of the Storm
by BBC journalist Owen THE BIG FAMILIES
Bennett Jones is an Power and wealth in Pakistan have always been highly concentrated. In
excellent way of bringing 1959, 222 individuals were making use of two-thirds of the total credit in
yourself up to speed on the Pakistani banking system. In the 1970s just 22 families owned 66% of the
the modern Pakistani country’s industrial assets, 70% of insurance and 80% of banking. Pakistan’s
political scene. financial and political dynasties are intertwined, comprising a political elite
that has run the country in tandem with (or alternating with) the military
since Independence.
In recent years two families have dominated Pakistani politics: the Bhuttos,
who lead the Pakistan People’s Party (PPP); and the Sharifs, who lead the
Muslim League (PML). The Bhuttos, who come from rural Sindh, represent
old money and feudalism. The Sharifs, by contrast, are industrialists who
have made new money – and are almost certainly now the richest family in
the country. At various stages of his meteoric career, Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto was
president, chief martial law administrator, and prime minister of Pakistan. A

1989 1996 1998

After Soviet withdrawal from The Pakistan-sponsored Taliban Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif’s
Afghanistan, Pakistan contin- militia capture Kabul. Follow- government carries out nuclear
ues to fund and support Islam- ing the Taliban conquest of test explosions in Balochistan
ist mujaheddin. In Kashmir, northern Afghanistan a year in response to India’s newly
support for secular Kashmiri later, Pakistan becomes the declared nuclear programme.
nationalist groups is dropped first of only four countries to The USA imposes limited eco-
in favour of Islamist resistance recognise them as forming a nomic sanctions on both sides
in Indian-occupied Kashmir. legitimate government. in response.
lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • T h e B i g Fa m i l i e s 39

charismatic populist with socialist leanings, he advocated state control of the

economy and made an enemy of the Sharifs by nationalising their factories.
Nawaz Sharif’s father, Mohammed Sharif, realised that to protect his
business interests he would need political as well as financial muscle. After
Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto was hanged by General Zia, he placed his youngest son
Nawaz in the Zia administration. In June 1979 the Sharifs were rewarded for
their services to the military regime by having their company denationalised.
From that moment the Sharif family fortunes soared.
But the Bhuttos made a comeback. After Zia’s death, Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto’s
daughter, Benazir, returned from exile and was elected prime minister. The
two families slugged it out for the next 10 years, with Nawaz and Benazir
both having two terms as prime minister.
The Sharifs and the Bhuttos have rock-solid political bases. The Sharifs
are based in Raiwind, just outside Lahore. You may be able to talk your way
into their sumptuous estate, complete with private zoo, which has been
unoccupied ever since President Musharraf forced the Sharifs into exile.
And you will certainly find that many people in the area express blind faith
in, and undying admiration for, Nawaz Sharif and all his relatives. Similarly
if you visit Larkana in Sindh (it is near Moenjodaro and also has a private
zoo), you will find people referring to Benazir Bhutto as if she had been a
queen. These unswervingly loyal political heartlands provided both politi-
cians with a springboard for their national ambitions. When over half the
electorate cannot read, it is a huge advantage to come from a family that
people have heard of.
Pakistan’s failure to break the power of the big families has held back
the country’s development. In many parts of Pakistan the local landowner
(often referred to as a ‘feudal’), tribal chief or religious leader always wins
any election. As a result, the National Assembly and Senate in Islamabad
are, for the most part, filled with people whose main interest is to hang on
to their wealth and privileges. The weakness of the state institutions means
many Pakistani citizens are forced to rely on their local leaders to provide
basic services. The courts are so slow and unreliable that many Pakistanis
expect their local leader to resolve legal disputes. Having heard both sides of
an argument the local bigwig will hand down summary justice on the spot.
Tribal chiefs often order that people they find guilty of some misdemeanour
be punished with a beating and some even have private prisons.
At the close of 2007, while the big families were as active as ever, their
political futures were muddy. Both Benazir Bhutto and Nawaf Sharif returned
from exile (despite both having outstanding corruption charges against them)
to re-establish their political primacy, a gamble that ended in disaster with
Benazir Bhutto’s assassination on 27 December in Rawalpindi days after the
Eid al-Adha holiday. Her son was quickly appointed her political successor,
but the repercussions her murder would produce remained unclear.

1999 2001 2002

General Pervez Mushar- After 9/11, Pakistan is forced to A widely boycotted referendum
raf launches the Kargil war drop its support of the Taliban gives Musharraf five more years
in Kashmir. With worries of and begins to receive vast in power. Elections produce po-
nuclear escalation, Pakistan is amounts of American aid as a litical deadlock, with Musharraf
forced to beat a retreat. When result. Having declared himself eventually gaining the support
Nawaz Sharif attempts to sack president, Musharraf further of Islamist parties, which retro-
Musharraf, the general over- consolidates his political power spectively legitimise his 1999
throws him in a coup. base. coup the following year.
 40 H I S T O R Y • • Pa k i s t a n o n t h e W o r l d S t a g e lonelyplanet.com

PAKISTAN ON THE WORLD STAGE

Pakistan has played a surprisingly important role on the world stage since
Independence. Its strategic location explains why, squeezed between the
powerhouse of India, and Afghanistan, long an arena for competing empires
to play out their rivalries. Foreign policy has been driven by these neighbours.
Knowing its relative weakness compared to Delhi, Islamabad has continually
pursued the idea of ‘strategic depth’ to bolster its position, seeking to tie down
the Indians in Kashmir while encouraging the formation of a pro-Pakistani
After 11 September government in Kabul to secure its restive Pashtun borderlands.
2001, The Taliban by When the Soviets invaded Afghanistan in 1979, the Durand Line became
Ahmed Rashid became an an active Cold War frontline. The Americans were determined to force
unlikely bestseller. It lifts the Soviets out and Pakistan became their base of operations. Billions of
the lid on radical Islam- American dollars were spent supporting the mujaheddin (Islamic fighters)
ism, oil pipeline politics who were prepared to enter Soviet-occupied Afghanistan and fight.
and Pakistan’s role in The Pakistani leader at the time, General Zia ul Haq, couldn’t believe
regional power games. his luck and proceeded to skim off vast amounts of the American money.
Mujaheddin who saw the anti-Soviet war as a largely nationalist struggle
were sidelined by Zia in favour of the most radical Islamist factions. These
continued to be supported following the Soviet withdrawal in 1989 in the
hope that they would form a new Afghan government. When this gambit
failed, the Pakistanis acted as midwives to the new Taliban militia, helping
them take eventual control of the country. At the same time, other radicals
were encouraged to take the fight to Kashmir.
Because it gave shelter to Osama bin Laden, the Taliban was removed
from power by the Americans after 11 September 2001. In the process, the
Pakistanis once again were in a position to benefit because the Americans
now wanted to pay Pakistan to help destroy the very forces they had together
created. Since then, relations between Islamabad and the newly democratic
Kabul government have been rocky to say the least, with Pakistan again voic-
ing support for negotiations with the regrouped (and rearmed) Taliban.
Pakistan is the third- Pakistan has found itself in a tricky position. On the one hand it wants to
biggest recipient of US encourage Islamic militancy so that there are enough young fighters to keep
military aid after Israel the Kashmiri struggle alive. On the other hand, it is trying to shut the militants
and Egypt. down so as to prevent the possibility of an Islamic revolution at home and also
to please the West and keep the aid dollars flowing in. Given the increased
international focus on Islamic extremism it is unclear how long Pakistan will
be able to sustain what has become a very difficult balancing act.

2006 2007 2007

Following army campaigns From July to October, Islamist In November, Musharraf de-
against Islamists in the tribal violence rocks Pakistan, with clares a state of emergency,
areas of Waziristan, the Paki- bloodshed ending the standoff and cracks down on civil soci-
stani army signs a controversial against the radical students ety and political opposition. He
peace deal that sees it cede of Islamabad’s Red Mosque. finally steps down as army chief
local control to pro-Taliban Bhutto’s return from exile is and elections are announced
militants. targeted by suicide bombers. for early 2008. Benazir Bhutto
is assassinated on 27 December.
 41

The Culture
The concept of Pakistani culture is a relatively new one, born with the creation
of the country in August 1947. But the culture itself dates back centuries,
through the ancient Indus Valley civilisation, the presence of Hindu empires,
the introduction of Islam and a series of Muslim empires (including the
Mughal empire), and the colonial period. Since Independence, Pakistan’s
ethnic diversity, the modernisation process, the re-emergence of Islamic
fundamentalism and the country’s gradual integration into global society
have combined to create a rich and diverse culture.

THE NATIONAL PSYCHE If you find yourself in

Around 96% of Pakistan’s population is Muslim, and Islam permeates the
a sticky situation, use
entire country, from the regular sound of the call to prayer to the open
the word ‘mehman’
hospitality shown to guests. The country works on short hours during the
(pronounced may-marn),
fasting month of Ramazan (Ramadan), when the iftar (breaking of the fast
which translates as
at sunset) becomes the day’s main social event. Religious festivals such as
‘guest’. It can have a
Eid-ul-Fitr and Eid-ul-Azha are celebrated as national holidays, and shops
very positive effect on
can remain closed for days afterwards. Pakistanis are known for their hos-
locals, especially if you’re
pitality. In line with Islamic teachings, guests are considered an expression
experiencing a communi-
of God’s blessing, and even those in the poorest strata of society go out of
cation barrier.
their way to greet and serve strangers. This openness to guests, and the
sense that Pakistanis are genuinely pleased to see you, sometimes comes as
something of a surprise to foreign visitors, who often arrive full of headlines
about Islamists and the ‘War on Terror’.
If Islam was the driving force behind Pakistan’s creation, it has also helped
forge its nationalist character. On Independence Day (14 August), Pakistan
Day (23 March) and Defence of Pakistan Day (6 September), newspapers,
TV and radio blare with references to Pakistan’s greatness, while national
flags are flown and buildings decorated. Such nationalism is in part defined
by Pakistan’s search for security amid its fraught relationship with India.
The founding belief of a secure homeland for Muslims finds repeated echoes
in the touchstone issue of Kashmir, as well as bloody involvements with
Afghanistan and Bangladesh.
The repeated involvement of the military in politics (often driven by
these same issues) has made Pakistanis both very politically aware as well as
being quite cynical about the ruling political classes. As the army has ruled
Pakistan for more than half the country’s existence, elections, when held, are
a cause for celebration. The downfall of a regime is similarly marked joyfully,
tinged with the bitter hope that next time things might be a little better for
the ordinary man and woman, in sha’ Allah (if God wills it).

LIFESTYLE
The family is the central unit of daily life in Pakistan. Men are considered the
heads of the family unit, and in the vast majority of cases are the breadwin-
ners. With working life dominated by men, the public sphere is overwhelm-
ingly masculine. In contrast, private family life is often dominated by women,
who bring up the children and run the household. Traditionally, extended
families have been the norm with several generations living together, but
with the drift towards urbanisation in full swing in Pakistan, nuclear families
are becoming ever more common.
Marriages are typically arranged, and are seen as much as the joining of
two families as two individuals. Families meet and investigate a number of
 42 T H E C U LT U R E • • P o p u l a t i o n lonelyplanet.com

prospective spouses for their children with a view to selecting the best and
most appropriate person. Love marriages, while increasingly acceptable
among middle classes, are often seen as scandalous among more traditional
families, where the ‘shame and honour’ nature of society seeks to maintain
the ‘purity’ of the family’s women.
Dowry is an important part of many Pakistani marriages. Parents of the
Arranged marriages
bride give her money or assets such as jewellery and household goods to take
have met the online
into the new family. The often high cost of dowries is a reason frequently cited
world with matrimonial
for delaying marriage, as it can easily become a debt trap for lower income
websites such as www
groups. The cost of dowry is also a key factor in the popularity of marriages
.shaadi.com serving
between first cousins, as it keeps wealth within the family.
Pakistan’s middle-class
Pakistan’s diverse Islamic traditions lead to different interpretations of
singles.
customs, which lead to variations in the way families live and operate. In the
more orthodox and conservative traditions (tribalised Pashtuns for example),
women may be forbidden from working outside the family home or even
being seen by men they are not related to. In public, a burka (a long gown
covering the face and shoulders) may be worn. Education is not seen as a
priority for such women, whose key responsibility is raising children.
At the other end of the spectrum are families that subscribe to a more
moderate, progressive interpretation of Islam. Women in such families do
not observe purdah (the custom among some Muslims of keeping women
in seclusion), and there is little or no emphasis on following the traditional
Islamic dress code. Once educated, they work in areas of their choice. These
families may, however, still hold some traditional views about women and
family life; having educated their daughter, they may still insist that she mar-
ries a person of the family’s choosing. Most Pakistani families fall somewhere
between these positions.
Beyond the family, society frequently operates on the level of clans (bi-
While primary education
radaris for Punjabis, or Pashtun khels). Clans are hierarchical structures
is free in Pakistan, the
consisting of chiefs and members; chiefs take care of the needs of their
cost of textbooks can put
group, including employment, and offer mediation and advice, receiving
school out of reach for
loyalty and subservience in return. During elections, tribal chiefs frequently
the poorest Pakistanis,
decide who to vote for and the members of the tribe do so en bloc for the
helping fuel the boom
selected candidate. When there are feuds between tribal chiefs, members of
in madrasahs (Islamic
each tribe are expected to side with their respective leader. Clans are either
colleges), most of which
a subset of a tribe or an extended blood lineage group that traces its history
offer financial support
to some common origin.
to pupils.
Unlike in India, there is not such a clearly defined caste system in Pakistan.
Castes are associated with professions. People are classified, for example, as
traders, barbers and shoemakers, but membership of a caste does not relegate
someone to a specific status for life.
These traditional structures are changing, with clan ties often weakening
as many families move away from their old rural homes towards the cities.
Further challenges face different parts of society. In the Pashtun Tribal Areas,
increased radicalisation by Islamists threatens traditional hierarchies by force
of arms, while in Punjab the biradaris have become more significant on the
political stage in lobbying for their communities.

POPULATION
Home to an estimated 164 million people, Pakistan is the sixth most populous
country in the world. It’s a rapidly growing and young nation, having more
than quintupled its population since Independence in 1947. Around half of
all Pakistanis live in fertile Punjab, while just 5% live in vast Balochistan (over
40% of the country’s area). Agriculture, still the backbone of the economy,
accounts for such an uneven spread, although as elsewhere in the world,
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • P o p u l a t i o n 43

DOS & DON’TS Sarina Singh

Pakistanis are known for their hospitality towards visitors, and your appreciation will be regis-
tered if you respect local customs and sensibilities. While you’re not expected to get everything
‘right’, common sense and courtesy will get you a long way. If you’re unsure of how to act in
certain settings (eg mosques), ask someone and/or watch what the locals do. Refrain from public
displays of affection as this is not condoned by society and is likely to cause offence. You may
see Pakistani men publicly holding hands with each other – this is an accepted expression of
nonsexual friendship.

Dress Matters
The way in which you dress is going to have a profound impact on how you are perceived by
locals. Revealing as little flesh as possible is the way to go for both women and men. Long,
loose, nonrevealing garments should be worn by both sexes. One recommended option for
both men and women is the shalwar kameez (traditional tunic-and-trouser combination), which
can be easily (and cheaply) tailormade or bought at local markets. Women should always have
a scarf handy to cover their head and chest when appropriate (for comprehensive information
about what women should wear see p381). Needless to say, public nudity is completely taboo,
and swimwear is only acceptable at public or hotel swimming pools. Women should seek advice
from relevant regional tourist offices about appropriate swimwear at beaches; this could range
from knee-length shorts and T-shirts to a shalwar kameez.

Religious Etiquette
Places of worship are of enormous spiritual significance and visitors should show respect by dress-
ing and acting appropriately. Some places may not permit foreigners or women to enter (if you’re
unsure, ask someone). Remove your shoes before entering (don’t forget to tip the shoeminder
Rs 3 to 5 when retrieving them) and, once on site, never step over any part of someone’s body
or walk right in front of someone praying.
Always make it a point to be respectfully dressed when visiting a place of worship – foreign
men have caused offence in the past by failing to do so. The key is for men to not wear reveal-
ing clothes such as shorts or singlet tops, or dirty or ripped clothing. Women must cover their
heads at all mosques and gurdwaras (Sikh temples); men usually have to only cover their heads
at gurdwaras.
Loud and intrusive behaviour is not on and neither are displays of affection or kidding around.
Don’t smoke – note that tobacco of any kind is prohibited at gurdwaras in Pakistan – and be
sure to observe any photography restrictions (ask somebody if you’re unsure).

Eating & Visiting Etiquette

It’s considered polite to offer and accept food and drink with the right hand, and to use this hand
for eating and other social acts such as shaking hands. This is because the left hand is used for
less appetising actions such as removing dirty shoes etc.
If you’re lucky enough to be invited to someone’s home, dress respectfully and consider tak-
ing a gift such as a bunch of flowers, box of sweets or, if possible, a souvenir from your home
country. Unless specifically asked not to, always remove your shoes when entering a private house,
and wait for your host to escort you inside. If you’re unsure of protocols such as how to address
household members, simply ask your host. Male visitors are usually restricted to a particular area
of the house (eg the lounge), but women may be taken to the ‘heart’ of the home to join female
family members, enabling them to see an aspect of daily life that few males are privy to.

urbanisation accounts for major population movement. Thirty years ago over
two-thirds of people lived in rural areas compared to the cities, a proportion
that has now completely reversed. Although all cities have grown, Karachi
in particular continues to suck in migrants in vast numbers, its population
of 14 million growing by nearly 5% a year.
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Owing to its position on old trade and invasion routes between India,
Central Asia and the Middle East, Pakistan is a kaleidoscope of peoples
and languages. The major groups are Punjabis, Pashtuns, Sindhis, Mohajirs
and Baloch. Other groups worth noting are the Brahui, Kashmiris, Kalasha
On current growth rates, and the small nationalities that make up the mountainous patchwork of
Pakistan’s population the Northern Areas, such as the Balti, Wakhi, Gujar and Burusho. Afghan
is expected to top 217 refugees make up a significant minority.
million by 2020. Melding such diverse groups into one people has proved a major chal-
lenge for independent Pakistan. The official national language of Urdu is the
mother tongue for less than one in 10 Pakistanis, and despite the unifying
banner of Islam, ethnic nationalism plays its role in contemporary politics.

Punjabis
The Punjabis are the biggest ethnic group in Pakistan, and have dominated
Pakistan’s bureaucracy and military since Independence. Punjabis have
historically identified themselves in terms of their qaum – a clan or tribal af-
filiation based on descent and occupation, like caste but without the religious
overtones – and still do, particularly in rural areas. Many tribes traditionally
followed a single occupation, which gave the qaum its name and its general
position in society. The concept of qaum is inextricably linked to the big
landowning families that hold great sway in Punjab.
According to the 1998 Punjabi tradition makes much of the idea of reciprocity, at least on the
census, 43.4% of the male side. A Punjabi’s brother is his friend, and his friend is his brother,
total population is below and in principle all share access to one another’s resources (eg money or
the age of 15 years, a connections), resulting in a strong sense of community based on kinship
picture similar to other and communal needs.
developing states with
high population growth. Pashtuns
Pakistan’s second-largest ethnic group are the Pashtuns, who live in North-
West Frontier Province (NWFP) and northern Balochistan, as well as most
of eastern and southern Afghanistan. Some Pashtuns claim descent from the
lost tribes of Israel. Traditionally conservative, with a strict tribal structure
and moral code of Pashtunwali (see p190), the Pashtuns are celebrated for
their martial heritage. The British Raj and Pakistani army alike have seen fit
to swell their ranks with Pashtun fighters.
Pashtuns in NWFP belong to around two dozen tribes and, within these,
to khel (clans). Clan membership is related to land ownership; one who
loses his land is no longer treated as a full member of the community.
Maliks (tribal chiefs) arise by virtue of age and wisdom, backed up by a jirga
(council) of elders.
The Tribal Areas are the Pashtuns’ heartland, and are the largest autono-
mous tribal area in the world. Underdeveloped and wary of government
Around 80% of Afghan
control, Pashtuns here look less towards Islamabad than their kin across
refugees in Pakistan are
the Afghan border. Repeated governments have sought to diffuse this eth-
Pashtun.
nic nationalism (and the concept of ‘Pashtunistan’ often touted by Afghan
Pashtuns) by encouraging Pashtun Islamism instead.

Baloch
The Baloch (or Baluch) of southeastern Pakistan are a mix of nomads and
settled farmers. Tribal structure is very important in Baloch society, with
a hakim (leader) of a family holding great sway over his ‘court’ of herders,
farmers and tenant farmers. Traditionally hakims offered booty or property
rights in return for support in battle; nowadays various favours are traded
for votes. The hard, isolated nature of Balochistan has meant that Balochis
have always been a proudly independent people – a fact that the government
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has addressed by keeping them largely marginalised from Pakistani society.

A Baloch nationalist uprising in the 1970s was brutally suppressed by the
army, and recent grievances over access to Balochistan’s gas wealth have
followed the same pattern.
Baloch subscribe to a very strong code of behaviour with emphasis on protec-
tion for the one seeking it, honour and hospitality. They are overwhelmingly
Sunni, although a tiny sect of Zikri Baloch believe in a Messiah whose teachings
supersede those of Prophet Mohammed. They are considered heretics by some
Sunni and Shiite Muslims and have suffered intermittent persecution.
The majority of British
Brahui Pakistanis trace their
Found largely in central Balochistan, the Brahui may be the last major com- families to the Mirpur
munity descended from the Indus Valley civilisation, and are one of the sub- region of Azad Kashmir.
continent’s most ancient peoples. Their language is believed to be a mixture
of Dravidian – the forerunner of Tamil, Malayalam and other languages of
South India and Sri Lanka – and an unknown new tongue.
They have traditionally been nomadic herders, with lands cultivated by
tenant farmers, although they have become more settled in recent years.
After decades of relative stagnation, Brahui language and culture are seeing
a revival.

Sindhis
This group has perhaps the most thoroughly mixed ethnic origins of all
groups in Pakistan. Sindhis identify strongly with their culture, which sur-
vives mainly in rural areas of Sindh province and is characterised by original-
ity in sports (at melas – fairs – and malakhanas – wrestling festivals), the arts
(pottery and glazed tiles, silver jewellery, textiles and embroidery), music (at
births, marriages and seasonal celebrations) and folklore.
Most of Sindh’s educated middle class before Partition were Hindus, and
their mass departure in 1947 had a traumatic effect on Sindhis’ collective
self-image. Present-day Sindhis tend to see themselves as under-represented
in public life, although the frequently ruling Bhutto family are Sindhi. Sindhi
language has been used by the locals for administrative purposes for decades,
and has a rich literary tradition.

Mohajirs
After Partition about seven million Mohajirs – an ethnically diverse group The mammoth task of
of Muslim, Urdu-speaking immigrants (mohajir means refugee) – moved surveying Pakistan’s
to Pakistan, mostly to Sindh. Mohajirs now outnumber Sindhis in their population is next due in
own province, and make up two-thirds of Karachi’s population. For a long the 2008 census.
time they dominated Pakistan’s administrative structures, especially while
Karachi was the capital of the country. However, this changed with the build-
ing of Islamabad, leading to resentment and a cycle of anger and violence.
Mohajirs founded the Mohajir Quami Mahaz (MQM; Refugee People’s
Movement), which has become Sindh’s key political player, helped in part
by the sympathies of Pervez Musharraf (Pakistan’s fourth military ruler) –
himself a Mohajir.

Kalasha
The non-Muslim Kalasha live a peaceful but marginal existence in three val-
leys southwest of Chitral town in NWFP. Linguists think they’re descendants
of Indo-Aryans who overran the region in the 2nd millennium BC, although
Kalasha founding legends point to the troops of Alexander the Great as their
ancestors – a fact they claim is borne out by their European features and tra-
dition of wine-making. Muslims called them kafirs (nonbelievers) and their
 46 T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n lonelyplanet.com

land Kafiristan. By the 19th century the Kalasha, perhaps 50,000 strong, had
been pushed into the higher valleys of the southern Hindukush.
British control came as a relief from the worst treatment by Chitralis, who
considered the Kalasha lowly and once sold many into slavery. But discrimi-
nation and Islamic pressure continue, and most prefer spartan agrarian lives
to development from outside. For more about the Kalasha see p228.
For more on the peoples
of the Karakoram High- Afghan Refugees
way, see p239. The Soviet invasion and occupation of Afghanistan in the 1980s re-
sulted in an influx into Pakistan of over three million Afghan refugees –
three quarters of them women and children. Two-thirds settled in NWFP,
and a quarter in Balochistan, either in refugee camps or in cities. Pakistanis
and their government initially responded with traditional Muslim hospi-
tality, but their collective generosity was soon worn thin by the resulting
inflation, competition for jobs and proliferation of weapons.
A new generation of Afghan refugees has now grown up in Pakistan.
Some of them have managed to get Pakistani identity cards and become
integrated into the mainstream, although most live in difficult conditions
and face regular discrimination and a precarious legal status. Since the fall
of the Taliban many have returned to Afghanistan with the assistance of
the UN High Commission for Refugees, but the continued instability in
that country, and the roots that many Afghans have put down over two
The term ‘Islam’ means decades, have meant that around two million remain in Pakistan – the
‘surrender’ and believers second largest refugee population in the world.
undertake to surrender
to the will of Allah RELIGION
(God). The will of Allah Islam is the main religion of Pakistan, and driving force behind its crea-
is revealed in the Holy tion during Partition in 1947. Less than 4% of Pakistanis follow other
Quran. faiths, split roughly evenly between Christianity and Hinduism, with a
small number of Sikhs and others.

Sunnis & Shiites

Both Islam’s major branches are reflected in Pakistan’s population, with
three-quarters following the Sunni path. Shiites make up the remaining
quarter, and include a significant minority who are also Ismaili (found
mainly in the mountainous north).
These two main branches of Islam developed out of a division over
the succession of rulers after Prophet Mohammed’s death in 632 AD.
They have evolved into two distinct branches with their own theo-
logical outlooks. Sunnis rely upon the Quran and Sunnah (practices of
Prophet Mohammed) as the main source of belief, whereas Shiites be-
lieve in the idea of the imam (religious leader) who continues to unfold
the true meaning of the Quran and provides guidance in daily affairs.
Pakistan’s Northern Areas Both branches are united in their following of the same Five Pillars of
are dominated by Ismaili Islam: shahadah, or declaration of faith (‘There is no God but Allah and
Muslims, who follow a Mohammed is his prophet’); salat (five times a day); zakat (making a
branch of Shiite Islam charitable donation); fasting during the holy month of Ramazan; and
that reveres the Aga the haj (pilgrimage to Mecca), which every Muslim aspires to do at least
Kahn as their spiritual once in their lifetime.
leader. Shiites and Sunnis coexisted peacefully in Pakistan until the 1980s, when
countries such as Iran and Saudi Arabia began to support local religious
groups. Religiously motivated violence increased and groups from the two
main sects began to identify the other as kafir (nonbeliever). There have
been attacks on each other’s mosques and killings of public figures, while
Sunni radicals have led frequent attacks on the Christian minority.
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Sufism
Existing parallel to mainstream Islam, Sufism (Islamic mysticism) adheres
to the main principles of the religion but emphasises a need to understand
the real essence of Islam and not be restricted to formal manifestations
of the religion. Sufism was the main avenue through which Islam spread Many Pakistani names
throughout the Indian subcontinent and although radical Islam tends to are taken from the
grab the headlines, the tolerance of Sufism remains far closer to the tradi- Quran and have biblical
tions of many Pakistanis. equivalents, such as
Sufism finds its expression in the continued belief in the role of pirs Suleiman (Solomon),
(religious teachers) and membership of tariqas (Sufi orders). Pirs are the Yusuf (Joseph), Musa
closest thing that Islam gets to the concept of a saint, something that more (Moses), Isa (Jesus), Daud
orthodox Muslims find suspiciously close to idolatry. Nevertheless, urs (the (David) and Adam.
death anniversaries of pirs) are widely attended by ordinary people. Attending
a Sufi shrine is a fascinating insight into Pakistani Islam. Prayers are offered
to the pir for intercession on a particular matter (the conception of a child
for example), often accompanied by the eating of a pinch of salt or earth
from the grave. Having made their prayers, attendees then turn away from
the grave to pray towards Mecca in the usual manner.
Sufi rituals are often accompanied by music, trancelike rhythms where
lines from the Holy Quran and the many names of Allah are recited, aiming
to induce an ecstatic feeling whereby the participant’s heart opens directly
to the divine. The Shrine of Baba Shah Jamal in Lahore (p104) is the best
place to see such amazing spiritual activity.

Pakistan & Radical Islam

Since Independence, when Pakistan was created out of British India as a
state for Muslims, there have been differences of opinion about the place
Islam should occupy in determining the nature of the state. Orthodox groups
have insisted the state be run along the lines of Islamic law (sharia), while
moderates have argued for a state where Muslims and non-Muslims can
live together in a society reflecting but not prescribing an Islamic ethos – an
ideal that Mohammed Ali Jinnah (a universally revered figure in Pakistan)
originally envisaged. For more than three decades after Independence, the
moderates were dominant in Pakistan.
When General Zia ul Haq seized power in a coup in 1977, Pakistan took a
lurch towards radicalism from which it is still suffering the aftereffects. For
Zia, the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan was a gift that enabled him to enact
his Islamist agenda. Hosting several million Afghan refugees, Pakistan had
money flooding in from the USA and Saudi Arabia to support the mujahed-
din, and Zia insisted on controlling the purse strings. His coffers bursting,
madrasahs (religious schools) boomed, invariably teaching only the most
radical and least tolerant interpretations of Islam, such as Wahhabism from
Saudi Arabia and its subcontinental relation, Deobandism. Domestic laws
were brought closer in line with sharia law, with the introduction of the
Hudood Ordinance of 1984 that introduced ‘traditional’ punishments for
crimes such as drinking, theft and adultery (typically enacted against women,
whose testimony was deemed worth a quarter that of man).
The Soviet withdrawal from Afghanistan in 1989 did not mark the end
of the madrasahs: Pakistan’s intelligence agencies continued for a decade
to sponsor and train some of the madrasah students as a means of raising
groups to aid in the fight for Kashmir, as well as enabling the rise of the
Taliban in Afghanistan. Such official policy of supporting jihad (holy war)
has had unpredictable consequences for successive governments, particularly
following the arrival of the USA in the region following 9/11. Radicals have
pushed for Pakistan to become a ‘pure’ Islamic state, and groups such as
 48 T H E C U LT U R E • • W o m e n i n Pa k i s t a n lonelyplanet.com

Lashkar-e-Toiba, Jaish Mohammed and Lashkar-e-Jhangvi, and Al-Qaeda

sympathisers, have moved to targeting government personnel, as well as
the minority Shiite population. The Tribal Areas along the Afghan border
have become increasingly radicalised and violent. Many clerics in such areas
argue vocally that true Muslims have a duty to wage jihad against the USA,
India and Israel, as well as the corrupt and ‘un-Islamic’ regime in Islamabad.
Moderate Muslims oppose such ideas and argue that struggle against one’s
self is a higher form of jihad that must take precedence over militant struggle.
They oppose violence in the name of Islam within or outside Pakistan.
President Musharraf has been outwardly active in promoting a moderate
understanding of Islam. He has used his stand, including dropping support
for the Taliban and sending the army into the Tribal Areas, to prove his
legitimacy on the world stage, all the while allowing madrasahs to flourish
and relying on Islamic parties in parliament for support. In the summer of
2007, the standoff at the Red Mosque that resulted in the deaths of dozens
of militants proved a further trigger to the unstable situation, unleashing a
wave of suicide bombers in the capital and NWFP. Pakistan’s relationship
with Islam looks set to continue along an unpredictable and increasingly
bloody path.

WOMEN IN PAKISTAN
The legal system of Pakistan formally acknowledges the equal rights that
women hold under Islam: women can vote, contest elections, own property
and make their own choices as citizens. But in reality, the position of many
women is that of second-class citizen. For most families, a boy baby is
preferable to a girl, and boys often receive preferential treatment. Access to
‘Pakistani education is limited for girls and women: women’s literacy is about half that
women of men’s, a number that plummets in the most traditional areas of NWFP or
have re- Punjab. Government attempts to improve things are slow, although women
now account for around one-third of all university graduates.
sponded to The legal marriage age is 16, but marriages following puberty are not un-
discrimina- common in rural areas. The practice of watta satta (where siblings of one fam-
tion by ily are married off to the siblings of another family) sees women exchanged as
wives between two families. Once married, women are expected to follow the
claiming wishes of the husband and his family (notably her mother-in-law). Domestic
their rights violence (both physical and psychological) is common; Human Rights Watch
as human estimated in 1999 that the domestic violence rate was as high as 90%.
Women are largely looked upon as property and symbols of a family’s
beings, honour, while men are the custodians of this honour. This belief has led
citing both to the practice of honour killings, where a man kills a woman in the family
Islamic because he feels that his honour has been compromised – the cause could be
anything from her smiling at another man to having an illicit relationship.
law and in- Women may be given as brides to restore a family’s honour. In the most
ternational extreme cases, local families have ordered the public raping of a woman
protocols’ as punishment against a family. While very rare, such events have brought
widespread public and political condemnation, although convictions against
perpetrators are often slow to follow.
Against this backdrop, it would be wrong to see women as passive players.
Pakistani women have responded to discrimination by claiming their rights
as human beings, citing both Islamic law and international protocols such as
the UN Convention for Elimination of Discrimination against Women.
The Women’s Action Forum (WAF) in Pakistan played a major role in
campaigning against the Hudood Ordinance passed by General Zia ul Haq
in 1984, which saw women accused and jailed for years on mere accusation
of adultery by a former husband or a suspicious relative. Women who be-
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • E c o n o m y 49

EXTRAORDINARY PAKISTANI WOMEN

Media reports of discrimination against women in Pakistan may create an image to the outside
world of Pakistani women always being the victims, but this is not necessarily the reality. A
strong tradition of activism exists in the subcontinent, where women like Nur Jahan and Razia
Sultana played a vital role in running empires, leading campaigns and encouraging architectural
innovations in the Islamic period.
The tradition has continued in Pakistan with women who question norms and make their mark
by changing trends; women such as Princess Abida Sultaan, the Princess of Bhopal (India). After
Independence she opted to live in Pakistan, and arrived with only one suitcase. She represented
Pakistan at the UN General Assembly in the early 1950s and was appointed as the Pakistani am-
bassador to Brazil. She entered politics in the 1960s and remained active for over two decades.
Besides this, she was an excellent sportswoman (with the dubious distinction of killing over 70
tigers) and a licensed pilot. At the same time she was very religious, and a committed mother.
Begum Sarfraz Iqbal (1939–2003) is a more recent example of an activist. Born into an elite
family, she wanted to be a doctor. Instead she married at an early age and brought up four
children, but she also played an active part in the wider society. She patronized art and culture
and her home became an ‘inn for Urdu literary personalities’. Challenging the norm that a woman
cannot have male friends outside her immediate family, she chronicled her close friendship with
Urdu poet Faiz Ahmed Faiz in her book Daman-e-Yusuf. Her newspaper columns questioned social
stagnation, political repression, Islamic fundamentalism and inequality. She actively promoted
the right to education for the poor, especially girls. She has been hailed as a model modern
Pakistani Muslim woman.

came pregnant as a result of rape were meted out the same treatment on the
grounds that their pregnancy was evidence of them exceeding the religious
limits of modesty. The WAF continues to work for women’s rights.
Islamic feminists refer to Islamic practices and the rights of women en-
shrined in the Quran and Prophetic practices as a way of forcing progress,
noting both the instruction to equally educate both sexes, and that the
Prophet Mohammed’s wife was a notable businesswoman of her day. Between
these two extremes are a number of women’s groups that combine secular
and Islamic ideas to target discrimination.
The Pakistani government has an ambivalent attitude towards women’s
rights. In 1988 Benazir Bhutto notably became the first Muslim female prime
minister in the world, providing a great beacon of inspiration. Even she,
however, shrunk from repealing Zia’s Hudood Ordinance, despite pressure
from women’s groups. Attempts to bring in legislation against honour kill-
ings has similarly foundered on indifference (or worse) from parliament,
despite President Musharraf announcing his support, and at the same time
reserving more seats for women in parliament.
The position of women in Pakistan often relies very much on where
you’re standing – whether that’s looking in vain for women on the streets
in the small towns of NWFP, or passing the fashionable women of Karachi
and Lahore.

ECONOMY
Compared to the Indian economic powerhouse across the border, Pakistan’s
economy appears sluggish, although the economic outlook is slowly im-
proving. When Musharraf seized power, the nation was in a truly parlous
financial state and on the verge of defaulting on loans to international
creditors. Stabilising Pakistan’s economy could be said to be one of the
key achievements of Musharraf’s military regime. The process hasn’t been
without controversy. Musharraf’s reliance on huge amounts of aid and loans
 50 T H E C U LT U R E • • E c o n o m y lonelyplanet.com

from the USA for being a public partner in the ‘War on Terror’ have laid
him open to great unpopularity at home, especially as the price of staples
like flour, oil and rice have crept ever upwards.
New direct trade links
With Pakistan’s rapidly growing population, the economy would have to
with India began in late
perform miracles just to stand still in terms of job creation. Although official
2007, with the hope of
unemployment stands at around 6.5%, the figure masks the large numbers
providing a spur to the
who are casually or underemployed. The rate of unemployment is higher in
Pakistani economy.
urban areas than in rural regions. Half of Pakistan’s population exists below
the poverty line, while half the country’s wealth is concentrated in the richest
15% of households. The poorest fifth of the nation share around 5%. These
extreme inequalities directly impact upon daily life. The rich live a life of lux-
ury in large houses with servants, and their children go to expensive private
schools. The poor – who rely disproportionately on informal sector employ-
ment – have little access to educational and health facilities. The government
initiated poverty-reduction plans, but the situation has not improved.
Poverty particularly impacts on children, and Pakistan’s Federal Bureau
of Statistics puts the number of child workers at over three million, a quarter
of whom are girls. Nearly two-thirds of these children are employed in the
agriculture sector, although they are often found in intricate manufacturing
jobs like stitching footballs and weaving carpets. Children often work long,
unpaid hours, or in exchange for food and shelter. In many cases, parents
borrow money and the children work to repay the loan in kind. These chil-
dren are usually unable to gain access to education, a fact that keeps them
locked into poverty as they enter adulthood. Child prostitution (although
illegal) is not uncommon.
At the other end of the scale, the military has ruled the roost economically
as well as politically. As well as sucking up 25% of Pakistan’s national budget,
the armed forces are big players in business, owning companies operating in
fields as diverse as construction and banking to making bread and breakfast
cereals. It’s estimated that the military has private assets worth around US$10
billion, although many of the business are actually poorly run – and receive
regular million-dollar bail-outs from the government. On retirement, senior
officers are frequently given generous land grants, further entrenching the
military’s economic power.

Corruption
Pakistan’s endemic corruption consistently scores high marks in Tran-
sparency International’s reports on global corruption. Historically, giving
gifts to those in positions of authority was part of the subcontinental tradi-
tion; it continued after Independence in 1947. Bureaucrats accepted bribes to
approve projects that could assist certain business families. Military officials
siphoned off money while signing defence contracts with external suppli-
ers. Even ordinary public servants charged small sums to do the tasks they
were already paid to do. Members of the police force would levy a ‘charge’
on taxi and autorickshaw drivers in exchange for ignoring violations of
traffic laws.

BEGGARS
The poverty problem accounts for the rising number of beggars, especially in Pakistan’s urban
centres; however, beggars are not as prevalent as in neighbouring India. Whether you give some-
thing or not is up to you. The giving of alms (zakat) is one of the pillars of Islam, although you
may decide your money is of better use if donated to a charitable institution such as the Edhi
Foundation (see the boxed text, p161).
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • E c o n o m y 51

DRUGS & GUNS

Drugs are a major social problem in Pakistan. Historically, Pakistanis in rural areas have used
charas (cannabis) but it is the increased incidence of heroin abuse that is of greater concern. Since
1979, when Pakistan joined the war to push the Soviets out of Afghanistan and heroin trafficking
through Pakistan was condoned as a means of partly funding it, the incidence of heroin abuse
in Pakistan increased from 20,000 in 1980 to an estimated 1.5 million in 1993, and two million
in 2000, according to the UN. There is, however, no agreement on the number of heroin users
in Pakistan – a 2000 survey claimed that of the total four million drug addicts in Pakistan, only
500,000 are chronic and regular users of heroin. Over the last decade there has been a shift
away from inhaling heroin to injecting, with ‘shooting galleries’ emerging in all the major cities;
a development that holds serious implications for the rising incidence of HIV/AIDS in Pakistan.
The government, with the help of the UN, has initiated programmes to increase awareness
about the problems associated with increased use of heroin and other drugs, and set up some
treatment facilities for addicts. However, some nongovernmental agencies have argued that
these do little to address the issues at the heart of drug addiction. The government has also
attempted to control the trafficking of narcotics through its territory, although the lawlessness
of the Pakistan–Afghanistan border makes such attempts difficult at best.
The Soviet invasion of Afghanistan has also had a profound effect on the availability of firearms.
Of the weapons brought into the country to arm the mujaheddin, huge quantities disappeared
onto the black market. Government and private support for the Taliban regime helped further
swell the numbers of weapons on the frontier, ranging from small arms up to rocket launch-
ers. Estimates vary, but there are somewhere in the region of 18 to 20 million unlicensed small
arms in Pakistan.
Such a profusion of weaponry, partly fuelled by drug money and tied to the large numbers
of militants originally trained to fight in Afghanistan and Kashmir, continues to provide a major
security problem for Pakistan. The confiscation and destruction of illicit arms is dwarfed by the
activities of violent Islamist groups that are increasingly targeting the symbols of power, from
bomb attacks near the army’s headquarters in Rawalpindi to the bloody standoff at Islamabad’s
Red Mosque in the summer of 2007. The gun and drug backwash of the Afghan conflict still has
the ability to challenge the country’s stability.

In today’s Pakistan the magnitude and extent of corruption has in-

creased. The current process started in the early 1980s when Pakistan
received billions of dollars as the frontline state in US-led moves to push
the Soviet Union out of Afghanistan. Half of this money was to be used
for defence purposes – a fact that enabled some military officials to obtain
commissions on certain deals. Once military rule ended with the death of
General Zia ul Haq in August 1988, politicians became actively involved
in the process. Afraid of losing power at the discretion of the president,
politicians focused on securing the support of other politicians by bribing
them. Those in power also used banks and bureaucracy to take loans and
then default on them. Benazir Bhutto’s vaunted return from exile in 2007
was only possible when it was agreed to drop long-standing corruption
charges against her.
Transparency International’s studies have shown that the middle- and
lower-level functionaries in public institutions facilitate corrupt practices.
While there were similarities between the South Asian states studied, the
incidence of corruption reported in Pakistan was higher than in other
states on a number of counts. Bribing functionaries in areas from health
and education to the justice system are all commonplace.
The National Accountability Bureau (NAB) launched by President
Musharraf in 1999 to carry out investigations into businesspeople, politi-
cians, bureaucrats and armed forces personnel has proved largely ineffective,
 52 T H E C U LT U R E • • M e d i a lonelyplanet.com

with the perception that it has been selective in its investigations, targeting
mainly retired military officials.

MEDIA
The press played a major role in mobilising support for Pakistan in the
1940s, but after Independence it came under heavy scrutiny and regula-
tion. The government controlled the press for many years, raising concerns
among audiences about bias; many people tuned into the BBC for reliable
Pakistan has over 26 news. The situation changed during the 1990s: a number of new magazines
TV stations. President and newspapers were given permission to operate by the governments of
Musharraf allowed the both Benazir Bhutto and Nawaz Sharif, and independent TV channels
licensing of so many in slowly started up. This has turned into a flood with the rise of cheap
1999, when he realised satellite stations and the internet. Pakistan now has a lively media, with a
Pakistanis were getting variety of competing voices all shouting to be heard, reflecting the diversity
their news via Indian and tensions of Pakistani society.
satellite TV. Two major media empires dominate the scene: the Jang group (publish-
ing Urdu Daily Jang, and English daily The News) and the Nawa-i-Waqt
group (publishing Urdu daily Nawa-i-Waqt and English daily The Nation).
They broadly represent two ends of the spectrum: the Jang group is more
progressive, the latter more conservative.
Pakistan TV (PTV) and Radio Pakistan (also known as Pakistan
Broadcasting Corporation – PBC) are still controlled by the government,
and PTV has also started a world service, PTV World. But the launch
of United Arab Emirates–based TV networks with strong Pakistani par-
ticipation, such as ARY Gold and Geo TV, has provided people with
new, prompt and varied coverage of domestic and international issues.
Given the satellite and cable networks operated by the private sector,
access to these news outlets extends to a large majority of the coun-
try’s population. Local stations like Khyber TV in NWFP broadcast in
regional languages.
The state of emergency of late 2007 showed a shadow of times past with
much independent media temporarily banned by the government, until
external and domestic pressure forced a backdown. For now, the genie
doesn’t show any inclination to get back in the bottle.

ARTS
Literature
As in much of the surrounding region, Pakistan’s rich literary tradition
elevates poetry over prose. Love is the eternal theme, celebrated most
The Peshawar Museum highly in the classical ghazal form of rhyming couplets. Here, an unat-
(p194) holds the largest tainable and often illicit love is most often written about, an allegorical
collection of Gandharan device dwelling on the heart’s separation from its divine creator. The Sufi
art in the world. influence on these poems is central to their identity, and goes far beyond
classical Urdu. The 18th-century poets Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai and Bulleh
Shah wrote on similar themes in Sindhi and Punjabi respectively and are
still revered, along with the Pashto poets from the 17th century, Khushal
Khan Khattak and Rahman Baba (claimed equally as national poets by the
Afghans). Rahman Baba’s tomb in Peshawar (p194) remains a good place
to hear recitals and Sufi music.
Poetry helped forge modern Pakistan’s identity. The poet Allama
Mohammed Iqbal (1877–1938) was one of the first to suggest that a sepa-
rate Muslim state be created from British India, and his tomb is a national
monument in front of the Badshahi Mosque in Lahore (p103). Later, Faiz
Ahmed Faiz (1911–84) used poetry to question the lack of democracy and
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 53

rights in Pakistan. Ahmed Faraz, a contemporary poet, has followed this

tradition but has made his mark predominantly in romantic poetry. Bapsi Sidhwa, author of
Poetry is recited in mushairas (gatherings of poets) that are heavily at- An American Brat and The
tended across the country, a testament to the continuing importance of Pakistani Bride, is one
poetry to Pakistani culture. of the most well-known
modern Pakistani writers
Cinema in English.
Pakistani cinema has always been seen as something of the poor cousin to
India’s huge film industry. Based in Lahore (thus the inevitable moniker
‘Lollywood’), Pakistan’s cinematic output is less than 100 films a year, pro-
duced in Urdu and Punjabi for a primarily domestic audience.
The nascent Lollywood was hit hard by Partition, when many directors
and producers fled for India leaving their assistants to pick up the reins. But
the cultural traffic wasn’t all one way, with actress and singer Noor Jehan,
the sweetheart of the subcontinent, choosing to settle in Lahore, where she
became Pakistan’s first female film director. As the film industry slowly grew,
the arrival of the Islamist Zia regime dealt it a serious blow. Strict censorship
took hold, established directors were forced out and romantic themes (and
staple scenes like singing heroines drenched in rain) were supplanted by guns
and lurid violence. In the 1990s, easy access to Indian movies via satellite
networks also saw a further decline in Pakistani-made films.
Attempts are being made to revive the film industry in Lahore and Released in 2007,
other major cities, with the focus shifting from theatre showings to DVD Zibakhana (Hell’s Ground)
distribution. is Pakistan’s first ‘slasher’
horror movie, where
Music trendy teenagers meet a
Pakistani music has classical, devotional, folk and popular traditions. Classical sticky end at the hands of
music is essentially the same raga (melody) as in the Indian classical music a serial killer – dressed
developed in the Hindu and Indo-Islamic courts. Devotional music has in burka.
mostly taken the form of qawwali, where Sufi poetry is sung in a group
against the background of harmonium, tabla (twin drums) and clapping. The
influence of the late Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan (see boxed text, p54) continues
to dominate qawwali.
Folk music deals with all aspects of life including romantic love. Heer
Ranjha (a legendary love story in poem form) or dohey (rhyming couplets),
for example, are sung by individuals to express their feelings. The tradition
had been eclipsed with the rise of popular songs from cinema, but it is being
revived by some younger modern singers: they combine folk with modern to
create an effect that can be magical. Abrar ul Haq pioneered this tradition but
you can also hear other singers like Hadiqa Kiani and Shazia Manzoor.
Pakistan has its own dedicated MTV channel, and although the influence
of Hindi pop and British-Punjabi bhangra dance music is inevitable, the
local pop scene is in rude health. Vital Signs was Pakistan’s first big pop/rock
group, flourishing in the post-Zia 1980s and ’90s, forging a path currently
being followed by outfits like Strings and Sufi-rockers Junoon. For ‘what’s on’ listings in
the cultural centre of
Architecture Lahore, from art exhibi-
The organised cities of Moenjodaro (p176) and Harappa (p134) provide the tions to concerts and
earliest examples of city planning and architecture on the subcontinent. More poetry recitals, check out
visually appealing to the casual visitor perhaps are the plentiful remains of Danka Lahore (www
Gandharan Buddhism, which include the monastery complexes of Taxila .danka.com.pk).
(p88) and Takht-i-Bahi (p206) with their domed stupas and intricate stone-
work. Elegant but derelict old Hindu stone temples in Rawalpindi, Lahore
and many smaller towns on the plains are reminders of another period of
Pakistan’s history.
 54 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet.com

NUSRAT FATEH ALI KHAN

Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan was a musical superstar whose singing transcended nationality and religion.
At the time of his death in 1997 at the age of 49 he was lauded in the West as a titan of world
music, while at home he was Shahen Shah-e Qawwali – the king of kings of qawwali singing.
Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan was born in Faisalabad in 1948 into the sixth generation of a distin-
guished family of singers of qawwali, used for centuries by Sufi missionaries to inspire and express
religious devotion, to preach and to instruct. He was understudy to his uncle and master to his
nephew. A landmark concert in 1979 made Nusrat the first qawwali singer ever to perform at the
Chistiyah Sufi shrine in Ajmer, India, and crowned him the undisputed heavyweight champion
of Pakistani music.
Qawwali concerts traditionally take the form of a mehfil, or gathering, with a lead singer,
second singer, harmonium and tabla players and a thunderous chorus of junior singers and
clappers, all sitting cross-legged on the floor. The singer whips up the audience with favourite
lines of poetry, dramatic hand gestures and religious phrases as the two voices weave in and
out, bouncing off each other to create an improvised, surging sound. On command the chorus
dives in with a hypnotic and rhythmic refrain.
It was Nusrat’s remarkable voice that made his brand of qawwali so accessible. He had an
amazing range, clarity and depth of voice. Staccato bursts of syncopated rhythm were flung out
in all directions during an improvisation, while at other times he curled his voice around a ghazal
(love song) with delicate finesse. Some of his most atmospheric music came from tirana vocal
exercises – using sounds rather than words, as evocatively as a call to prayer – or from musical
preludes in praise of the Prophet Mohammed or his successor, Ali.
Nusrat took the openness of Sufism as a musical creed, and was unafraid of mixing religious
and secular, ancient and modern, East and West. He first gained attention in the West with his
collaborations with Peter Gabriel, but later worked with talents as diverse as Massive Attack and
the Canadian producer Michael Brook, with whom he recorded his landmark albums Mustt Mustt
and Night Song (just two of over 120 albums he made in his career).
Continuing the tradition, his nephew and student Rahat Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan now leads the
family qawwali group.

It’s Islam and the Mughals that left Pakistan its greatest architectural
heritage, in their grand fusion of Persian and Indian styles. Lahore, the
Mughal capital under Akbar and Jehangir, is a treasure house of Mughal
architecture, from the imposing Lahore Fort (p102) and Badshahi Mosque
(p103), to the formal open spaces of the Shalimar Gardens (p108) and
Jehangir’s Tomb (p108).
The British later fused Mughal ideas with high Victorian Gothic concepts
to create a unique subcontinental building style. This Mughal-Gothic or
British Raj style can be still be seen across the country, from the Mall in
Pashtun architecture is Lahore (p106) with the Punjab University and Lahore Museum (Kipling’s
defined by the qala, a ‘Wonder House’), to Peshawar’s Museum and Islamia College (p194 and
fortified house that’s p194 respectively) and the buildings of Saddar in Karachi (p166).
more like a castle – Since Independence, architecture in Pakistan has largely followed Western
essential in communities styles, although architects found plenty to play with in designing the new cap-
where clan loyalties and ital, Islamabad. Some new mosques have been particularly daring and mod-
blood feuds run deeply. ern, such as the Faisal Mosque in Islamabad (p77) and the Defence Housing
Authority Mosque in Karachi (p166). Elsewhere, town planning remains a
distant aspiration amid an awful lot of hastily thrown-up concrete.

Painting
Mughal emperors, especially Akbar (r 1556–1605) and Jehangir (r 1605–27),
were great champions of miniature painting. Under their patronage, mini-
atures evolved from the Persian style of painting purely historical or legendary
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scenes to painting contemporary events and portraiture. Akbar had over 100
artists working for him at his court, assembling their works into painted
books, the most glorious of which was the Abkarnama, celebrating his
reign. The detailed and evocative portraits made of Akbar and (particularly)
Jehangir are among the most glorious examples of Islamic portraiture still
known. The Lahore Museum (p107) has a fine collection of miniatures.
Modern Pakistani painting is best represented by Abdur Rahman
Chughtai (1897–1975), renowned for his portraits, pencil sketches and
etchings. At the time of his death, many of his paintings were still in his
collection and are now exhibited in the private Chughtai Museum (p108),
run by his son.
The National College of Arts in Lahore takes the lead in training new
and promising artists in traditional and modern styles, while Karachi’s
emerging scene is dominated by abstract art.

Theatre & Dance

Theatre in Pakistan has a relatively short history, restricted to the urban
educated classes, although drawing on traditions of poetry recital that
date to the Mughal empire. The Alhamra Arts Council in Lahore domi-
nated the scene for a long time in the 1960s and 1970s, but declined in
the 1980s during Zia’s Islamist rule. Some artists persevered: Madeeha
Gauhar established the Ajoka theatre in 1983 to produce ‘socially meaning-
ful theatre’ about women’s issues and Sufi ideas. Its recent satirical musical
Burqavaganza, about the impact of the veil on private, public and political
levels, was banned after protests by Islamists.
The most popular dances are khattak in NWFP, and bhangra, sammi
and luddi in Punjab. Khattak is a frenetic sword dance that’s named after
the Khattak tribe (a Pashtun tribe near Peshawar), though every tribe has
its own version. Once exclusively martial, it is now part of any joyous
event. Bhangra is traditionally a harvest dance where participants move
in a circle around the drummer who gradually increases the tempo of the
music and dance. The melancholy sammi and vigorous luddi are women’s
dances performed in pairs or small groups.

Handicrafts
Pakistan has a kaleidoscope of rural handicrafts, some of which share roots
with the lavish decorative art of the Mughals. Most fill a practical need as
much as an aesthetic one. Important crafts still done by hand are described
in this section. Most of those with high export potential are easiest to find Gift of the Indus (http://
in Karachi. Prices are often higher and the selection smaller in Lahore. artsedge.kennedy
-center.org/pakistan
CARPETS /default.htm) is a great
The Mughals introduced carpet weaving to Pakistan, which continues to introduction to Pakistan’s
be a major hard-currency earner for the country. Designs are derived from rich artistic heritage.
Persian and Turkoman styles, with Lahore, Faisalabad and Muzaffarabad
being traditional centres of production. The industry received an unexpected

ART ON WHEELS
Pakistan’s buses and trucks are truly works of art: mirrored and sequinned; painted with poetry, jet
planes, birds, flowers and passages from the Quran; and equipped with tinted windows, musical
horns and jingling chains. Even the humblest autorickshaw may be lovingly adorned with vinyl
appliqué and painted with mountain landscapes or cinema heroes. One of the best places to see
vehicles being painted is in Peshawar, where local guides can arrange tours (p196).
 56 T H E C U LT U R E • • S p o r t lonelyplanet.com

fillip in the 1980s with the influx of Afghan refugees leading to a boom in
the Peshawar area, which remains a key market for exports.
The Kashmir and Hazara regions are notable for their namda styles of
embroidered wool rugs, while Balochistan and southern Sindh are known
for woven or knotted rugs of wool or camel hair.

CERAMICS
Throughout the country you can find terracotta pots, figurines or toys that
look much like the 3000-year-old ones from Moenjodaro and Harappa.
Each region also has its own – often vivid – colours and designs in glazed
pottery. Outstanding examples are the blue-and-white pottery and tiles
of Multan and Hala (near Hyderabad in Sindh) and the paper-thin black
clayware of Bahawalpur.

JEWELLERY
Gold and silver jewellery is found all over the country. Regional specialities
from Sindh and Balochistan include silver, either enamelled or inlaid with
semiprecious stones, while in Karachi and Lahore you’ll find gold inlaid with
precious stones. Ander Shahar Bazaar in Peshawar is the place for heavy
tribal silver jewellery from Afghanistan, Chitral and the Northern Areas –
plus lots of imitations.

METALWORK
Hammered copper and brass vessels, trays and boxes, and elaborate items like
samovars – plain, engraved, embossed or filigreed – are found in Lahore and
across northern Punjab, and in Peshawar’s Qissa Khawani Bazaar. Karachi,
Hyderabad and Multan jewellers are known for enamelware.

TEXTILES
Sindh and the Multan area are known for hand-loomed cotton fabric, often
block-printed or tie-dyed. Karachi and Multan are also known for hand-
loomed silk. Rilli is a Sindhi art combining printing, appliqué and embroidery
to make patchwork quilts, shawls and even rugs; the best is said to be from
east of the Indus. Frequently seen in Sindh and Balochistan are caps and
clothes with tiny mirrors embroidered into the fabric.
Cotton blouses and shawls with dense geometrical embroidery called
pulkari are made in Swat and Hazara and around Chakwal in northern
Punjab. Soft woollen shawls and coverlets with fine silk embroidery are
trademarks of the Kaghan Valley and Kashmir. Patti, the sturdy hand-loomed
wool of Chitral, remains popular locally, particularly when made into the
‘pancake’ pakol hats (also found in Hunza).

The most popular specta- WOODWORK

tor sport in the Northern Swat and Kashmir are best known for finely carved walnut furniture, chests,
Areas and Chitral is polo, trays and utensils – engraved or sometimes inlaid with bone or copper. Swat
and regular matches can was once known for the gorgeous carved screens, lintels and window frames
be seen throughout the of its houses and mosques, but these are more often seen in museums – or
summer. For more, see furniture clearing warehouses – these days. Brass or bone inlay and brightly
the boxed text, p276. lacquered woodwork are specialities in north-central Punjab.

SPORT
Pakistan has a good sporting heritage, from Olympic field hockey to the
mighty Jahangir Khan, probably the greatest player in the history of squash.
But for most Pakistanis, sport means just one thing: cricket. Arguably the
country’s second religion, it is a true national obsession, and its leading
lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • S p o r t 57

KABBADI
A combination of wrestling, rugby and tag, kabbadi comes from Punjab. Two teams, each of
12 members, are separated by a line in the middle of a 12.5m-by-10m arena. One team sends
a ‘raider’ to the other side; he has to keep uttering the phrase ‘kabaddi kabaddi’ and touch as
many members of the opposing team as possible without taking a second breath, and must re-
turn to his part of the field in the same breath. The defending side must protect themselves and
attempt to force the invader to either touch the ground and/or take a second breath. Kabaddi
has been famous in the subcontinent for centuries with major ‘houses’ dominating the scene
and competing in national and international competitions.

cricketers are everywhere on advertising hoardings endorsing everything

from mobile phones to soft drinks. If you’re visiting from a Commonwealth
country, be prepared to be regularly asked your views on everything
from the top spin bowlers of all time to the politics of the International
Cricket Council.
Internationally, Pakistan’s greatest triumph came with their winning the Keep up with the latest
World Cup in 1992, an event that turned captain Imran Khan into a national innings at the Pakistan
idol, and provided him with a base for his later entry into politics. The colli- cricket fan site www
sion of cricket and politics is a common occurrence in Pakistan, and relations .pakpassion.net.
with India are often measured by the willingness of the national teams to
play each other. At the same time, scandals on the pitch often reverberate
further afield, such as allegations of match fixing or ball-tampering, or the
frenzy over the mysterious death of Bob Woolmer, the national coach, at the
2007 World Cup, when the entire team was temporarily put under suspicion
until death by natural causes was established.
Current star players include reverse swing bowlers Waqar Younis and
Wasim Akram, and the batsman Younis Khan, sometime captain of the
national squad.
 58

Food & Drink

From robust curries and smoky kebabs to delicately spiced biryanis and
syrupy sweets, Pakistan treats travellers to a mouthwatering mix of regionally
diverse dishes. Pakistani food is similar to that of northern India – Mughlai,
cuisine of the Mughals – but with inventive Middle Eastern influences via
Afghanistan. Oil and spices are key ingredients of most dishes and, unlike
vegetarian-dominated India, meat reigns supreme in Pakistan. Visitors
certainly shouldn’t expect the immense variety (especially when it comes
to vegetarian food) found in neighbouring India, but will still be rewarded
with a lovingly prepared repertoire of time-honoured recipes.
There are eateries to please all pockets, with cities such as Lahore, Karachi
and Islamabad offering the entire gamut, from ramshackle street stalls frying
crunchy subcontinental snacks, to trendy multicuisine restaurants delight-
ing diners with everything from cheesy nachos and juicy T-bone steaks to
chicken chow mein and spinach ravioli. Travellers pining for familiar fast
food will also find chains such as KFC, Subway and Pizza Hut. While variety
abounds in the big cities, mutton or chicken curry, dhal (curried lentils),
rice and chapatis (unleavened bread) are usually all you’ll come across in
To cook up a Pakistani remote villages – although there are some brilliant regional exceptions, such
feast back home, grab as apricot soup (haneetze doudo) in Hunza.
a copy of From Zubeida Many midrange restaurants have dedicated ‘family sections’ for family
Tariq’s Kitchen by Zubeida groups with women (ideal for female travellers); there’s no such segregation
Tariq, which includes in upmarket places. Mid- and upper-range restaurants attract a 15% tax and
favourites such as Lahori the more upmarket establishments may also whack on a service charge.
fish.
STAPLES & SPECIALITIES
Bread
The generic term for traditional bread is ‘roti’, a name used interchangeably
with chapati to describe that most common variety, the unleavened round
bread cooked on a tawa (griddle). In Pakistan, rotis are usually bigger and
thicker than those in India and they’re often cooked in a tandoor (clay oven).
Paratha is similar but thicker (often flakier) and traditionally smothered with
ghee (clarified butter). It’s popular breakfast fare with an egg; sometimes it
has a vegetable filling. Puri is a deep-fried dough that puffs up when cooked,
while (thicker) naan is baked in a tandoor – garlic naan is especially divine.
Meanwhile, if you ask in Chitral, Hunza-Nagyr or Gojal you can find several
varieties of stout whole-wheat bread. Whatever the bread type, all have the
Blissfully cool dahi (plain same purpose: to scoop up food and soak up every last smidgen of flavour-
yogurt) or raita (curd packed curry sauces.
with cumin and select Nowadays you can find loaves (and often rolls) of freshly baked bread in
vegetables) is a great most city bakeries.
way of countering the
tastebud-tingling heat of Meat
spicy food. Meat (gosht) eaten in Pakistan is usually mutton or chicken (murgh), or
sometimes beef (gay ka gosht). Seafood and fish (machlee) are most com-
mon in Karachi, although some restaurants in Lahore and Islamabad offer
a commendable selection. Pork is taboo for Muslims.
Among popular ways to cook meat (especially chicken) are tandoori
(marinated and baked in a tandoor), biryani (cooked with spiced rice), tabak
(grilled) and chargh (steam roasted). Karai means braised with vegetables
and served bubbling in its own pan. A version of this is Balti, made famous
in Britain through the Balti houses of London. Jalfrezi means stir-fried
lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Staples & Specialities 59

with green chillies. ‘Masala’ means it has been prepared with mixed spices,
dopyaaza (‘double onions’) has onions added twice to the cooking process,
and makhani means cooked with butter. Tikka and boti kebab both refer to
meat grilled on a spit. ‘Broasted’ involves some steam cooking, with broasted
chicken taking characteristics of both fried and roasted chicken.
Kofta are lamb meatballs (or sometimes vegetable balls); nargasi kofta is
minced beef and egg. Qeema is minced mutton or beef in a spiced sauce.
Middle Eastern influence is evident in seek kebabs: mutton or chicken bits or
meatballs barbecued on a skewer. A scrumptious Pashtun variation is chapli
kebabs (spicy ‘mutton burgers’).
A protein-charged dish is braised chicken livers (karai kaleji), while the
more adventurous can tuck into gurda (kidneys), kapureh (testicles) and
magaz or bheja (brains).

Rice
Rice (chaval) can be ordered boiled (sadha chaval) or Central Asian–style
Spicy, meat-dominated
(pilau), cooked in stock and flavoured with spices, sometimes with vegetables
Mughlai cuisine traces its
or meat added. Qabli pilau is an Afghan version, made with sweet raisins and
roots back to the (Islamic)
served with a vegetable side dish. Then of course there’s biryani, a fragrant,
Mughal empire that once
lightly spiced steamed rice with vegetables or meat tossed through it – not
reigned supreme in the
to be missed!
subcontinent.
Snacks
Among the jumble of spicy Pakistani street snacks on offer are addictive
samosas (deep-fried pastry triangles filled with spiced vegetables and/or
minced meat), tasty tikkas (spiced and barbecued beef, mutton, fish or
chicken chunks) and pakoras (bite-sized vegetables dipped in chickpea-flour
batter and deep-fried). Kebabs doused in cool curd and wrapped in warm
bread are another favourite.
If you’re seeking something without chillies, try baked yams, popcorn,
roasted or boiled corn on the cob, or a little glass of peppery chicken soup
(murgh kai).

Sweets
Pakistan has a positively lip-smacking assortment of colourful mithai
(sweets). Some sweet shops produce their works of art right on the spot –
look for jalebis, the orange-coloured whorls of deep-fried batter dunked in
sticky sugar syrup. Also popular is barfi, a fudge-like milk-based confec-
tion, which comes in a variety of flavours. Gajar ka halwa is a delectable
soft, seasonal sweet made from carrots, while irresistible gulab jamuns are
deep-fried balls of dough soaked in rose-flavoured syrup – they’re especially
yummy when served warm.
Some of the most common restaurant desserts include kheer, which
resembles a creamy rice pudding (the finest contains rose-water, saffron
and pistachios), and kulfi, a firm-textured ice cream made with reduced
milk and flavoured with any number of nuts (often pistachio) or fruits.
Faluda comes in several varieties but is basically vermicelli (often with Salt may be sprinkled on
ice cream). fruit in Pakistan, so re-
quest its omission if you’d
Fruit prefer your fruit plain.
Fresh fruit includes mangoes, pomegranates, papayas, bananas and melons
in the southern plains; excellent dates (kajur) in Balochistan and Sindh;
and apricots, peaches, plums, apples, cherries, mulberries and grapes (and
wonderful dried apricots and mulberries) in Chitral and the Northern
Areas. Cheiku (also spelt chiku) is a small brown fruit that roughly looks
 60 FOOD & DRINK •• Drinks lonelyplanet.com

like a small potato but is sweet. Fruit is seasonal and comes in waves as
summer and autumn progress.

DRINKS
Nonalcoholic Drinks
Pakistan is awash with tea (chai), usually ‘milky tea’ (a mixed chai called dood
chai or doodvali chai) of equal parts water, leaves, sugar and milk brought to
a raging boil and often poured from a great height. If you don’t want sugar
(cheeni) in your tea, make sure you request this before brewing begins. Many
places will serve an unmixed ‘set’, complete with warmed milk and sugar on
the side. In the north, tea is sometimes served salted. Outside deluxe hotels
and some big-city restaurants – which serve frothy cappuccinos and perky
espressos – the only coffee available is of the instant variety.
Chinese-style green tea is called sabz-chai. The Pashtuns have raised this
to a sweet and sublime art form called khawa, with cardamom or other
spices. The Kashmiris have several versions, including one with salt, coconut,
almond and cardamom.
Sweet and savoury lassi, a yogurt-based beverage, is much loved and
incredibly refreshing. Also miraculously rejuvenating is ‘fresh lime’, or
nimbu pani, comprised of crushed ice, salt, sugar, soda water and the juice
of fresh limes or lemons.
Bazaars throughout Pakistan are often lined with vendors selling freshly
squeezed fruit and sugar cane juice (ganay), although their barely rinsed
glasses can be a bit dubious. It’s best to go to stalls where you can watch the
juice being squeezed in front of you, not only to make sure it hasn’t been sit-
ting around in a jug, but also to ensure it’s not watered down. Be aware that
some places may add salt or sugar to juices – if you don’t want these, say so.
Always remember that ice can pose a health risk so it’s best to ask for it
to be omitted unless you are confident of the hygiene.
Tap water, unless appropriately filtered, is best avoided; see p398 for further
information. Bottled water and soft drinks (including imported brands) are
safe – but look for any evidence that the bottles may have been reused. Also
safe are the little boxes of fruit juice that you punch open with a straw.

Alcoholic Drinks
Pakistan is officially dry but non-Muslim foreigners can apply for a liquor
permit that allows them to purchase locally made alcohol and also consume
it in the bars of some top-end hotels. The permits are issued by Excise &
Travellers should be Taxation Department offices found in the larger cities (see regional chapters
aware that during for details). These offices can also tell you where to buy booze once you’ve
Ramazan (Ramadan), got a permit.
the Islamic month of In Hunza some people still brew mel, a coarse grape wine, and a powerful
sunrise-to-sunset fasting, mulberry brandy called arak. Kalasha and some other Chitralis make a quaf-
most restaurants are fable red wine. Other locally made alcohol includes Murree beer, as well as
closed during daylight several kinds of spirits such as vodka, gin, rum and whiskey.
hours (see the boxed
text, opposite). WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Pakistan has a range of eateries, from simple roadside stalls to fancy multi-
cuisine restaurants. Hotel restaurants outnumber independent ones in most
smaller towns, and tend to keep longer hours. For those on a tight budget,
all the cities and larger towns have quick-service eateries at markets and
transport stations, which usually stay open throughout the day. These places
tend to focus on ubiquitous Pakistani food.
More upmarket restaurants are found in the larger cities (Lahore and
Karachi are especially good), and these cook up a tantalising array of global
lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K • • Ve g e t a r i a n s & Ve g a n s 61

RAMAZAN (RAMADAN)
Ramazan (Ramadan) is the auspicious Islamic month of sunrise-to-sunset fasting (no eating, drink-
ing or smoking; those exempt – in addition to non-Muslims – include the very elderly, the ill,
young children and pregnant women). During this time, most eateries are closed during daylight
hours; a number, especially in smaller towns, may even close down for the entire month. Meals
are taken after sunset and just before sunrise.
The best places for travellers to find food and drink during fasting hours are at hotels, food
stalls at train and bus stations, and sometimes Chinese (and occasionally other) restaurants. A
fair few supermarkets, general stores and fruit-and-vegetable stalls remain open throughout the
day, enabling you to buy refreshments to eat in the privacy of your hotel room.
Travellers are often given leeway to eat, drink and smoke, but if you do so in public be aware
that some people may give you disapproving stares or, in some cases, even question you (just
politely say you’re not Muslim). Nonetheless, it’s kinder to eat, drink and smoke out of the public
domain – not only is this culturally respectful, it’s considerate not to indulge in front of those
who are abstaining.
For approximate dates of Ramazan, see p371.

fare served in smart interiors. Major cities also have a decent range of
mid-priced restaurants with menus usually flaunting a mix of Pakistani,
Chinese and possibly Continental dishes (the Pakistani choices are usually
best). The bigger cities also have a clutch of good bakeries, juice stalls and
sweet shops.
Operating hours for restaurants vary widely, but most are at least open for During Ramazan (Ram-
lunch and dinner; others (especially street eateries) remain open all day. adan), each day’s fast is
often broken with dates,
VEGETARIANS & VEGANS which are considered to
Vegetarians aren’t nearly as well catered for as carnivores. Most restaurants be auspicious.
have just a few (if any) uninspiring vegetarian items, many cruelly over-
cooked, rendering them nutritionally useless. Having said that, the more
upmarket restaurants in the larger cities offer a better range of veggie crea-
tions than their budget brothers. Vegetables are known as sabzi in Pakistan.
The universal vegetarian dish is curried lentils (dhal), with other common veg
accompaniments including spicy spinach (palak), potatoes (aloo), cauliflower
(gobi), okra (bhindi), chickpeas (channa) and peas (mattar).
There’s little understanding of veganism (in Pakistan, the term ‘pure
vegetarian’ means without eggs), and animal products such as milk, butter,
ghee and curd are included in most Pakistani dishes.

HABITS & CUSTOMS

In Pakistan three main meals a day is the norm, with breakfast generally
fairly light and dinner the main meal, a family affair. Dinner is mostly
comprised of several dishes – usually with at least one meat dish, dhal (and
perhaps other veg options), chapatis and maybe rice. Dishes are served all
at once rather than as courses. Desserts are optional and most prevalent It’s customary to use your
during festivals or other special occasions. In many homes dinner can be right hand for eating, and
eaten quite late depending on personal preference and possibly the season polite to offer and accept
(eg late dinners during warmer months). Restaurants usually burst to life food with the right hand.
after 9pm.
Pork is taboo for Muslims, as are stimulants such as alcohol. ‘Halal’ is
the term for all permitted foods, and ‘haram’ for those prohibited. Fasting
is considered an opportunity to earn the approval of Allah, to wipe the
sin-slate clean and to understand the suffering of the poor.
For details about eating and visiting etiquette, see the boxed text, p43.
62 FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words lonelyplanet.com

EAT YOUR WORDS

Useful Phrases
I’m a vegetarian. mai sabzeekaur hoo
Do you have any vegetarian dishes? kyaa sabzee hee vaalaa kaanaa miltaa hai?
May we see the menu? menyoo kaard deejiye?
Please don’t make it hot. kam mirch daaliye
Please bring the bill. bil laaiye

Menu Decoder
NONVEGETARIAN DISHES
aloo tikka mashed-potato patty
kebab barbecued meat cooked on iron rods
qormaa rich, thickened curry of chicken, mutton or vegetables (meat is tenderised by
marination in yogurt before cooking)
rogan josh red curry with a thin gravy, made from the leg of mutton
shaamee kebab cutlets of minced meat and lentils
seek kebab meat cooked on skewers
tandoori chicken spice-marinated chicken cooked in a clay oven (without gravy)

VEGETARIAN DISHES
aloo gobi curried potatoes and cauliflower
baigan bartaa eggplant mashed and cooked
bhindi okra, also known as ‘lady’s finger’
chola spiced chickpeas
dam aloo potatoes cooked in a pressure cooker and served with gravy
mattar paneer unfermented cheese and pea curry
palak paneer unfermented cheese chunks in a pureed spinach sauce
rajma curried kidney beans

SWEETS
gulab jamun deep-fried ball of dough soaked in rose-flavoured syrup
halwa soft sweetmeat made from lentils, semolina or wheat, with butter, sugar,
milk and sweet spices
ladoo sweetmeat ball made with gram flour and semolina

Food Glossary
aaboochaa plum
aam mango
aaroo peach
andaa/ande egg/s
baigan eggplant
dahi yogurt
dood milk
gobi cauliflower
kaddoo pumpkin
kelaa banana
kishmish sultanas
kubaanee apricot
makkan butter
mattar peas
meerch chilli
pal fruit
paneer cheese
pyaaz onion
seb apple
 63

Environment
THE LAND
From the snowbound heights of the Hindukush and Karakoram ranges to the
almost tropical shores of the Arabian Sea, Pakistan occupies 796,096 sq km;
it’s a quarter of the size of India and more than three times as big as the UK.
A further 81,310 sq km is taken up by Azad Jammu & Kashmir (AJK) and the
Northern Areas, the parts of the old state of Jammu & Kashmir administered
by Pakistan under the terms of the 1949 UN ceasefire with India.
Pakistan rubs shoulders with Iran, Afghanistan, China and India,
and has 1046km of Arabian Sea coastline. The northern border is with
Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor, a strategic strip of land (in places no
more than 15km wide), beyond which is Tajikistan. From Gwadar Bay
in southwest Balochistan to the Khunjerab Pass on the China border is a
distance of over 1800km.
Topographically, Pakistan can be divided into six regions: north-
ern mountains, northern plateau, western mountains, Balochistan pla-
teau, southeast desert and the Indus plain. Coursing through it all like a
2500km artery is the Indus River – rising in Tibet, flowing northwest and
around Nanga Parbat, dropping south out of the mountains to water a
populous flood plain, and emptying through an immense delta into the
Arabian Sea.
The Karakoram boasts
the longest glaciers in
Northern Mountains
the world outside the
From Afghanistan the Hindukush range, crowned by 7706m Tirich Mir,
polar regions, including
reaches across Chitral and, under the name Hindu Raj, continues east to the
five glaciers of over
Indus. Northwards in Tajikistan the Pamir range begins. Along Pakistan’s
50km in length: Batura,
border with China and south into Ladakh stretches the Karakoram range,
Hispar, Baltoro, Biafo and
with the densest concentration of high peaks on earth (including 8611m
Siachen.
K2, second in stature only to Everest) and the longest glaciers outside the
polar regions. Poking into Pakistan, within the curve of the Indus, is the
Himalayan range, anchored here by 8125m Nanga Parbat.

Northern Plateau
The undulating lowlands at the foot of the mountains include the fertile
Peshawar Valley (ancient Gandhara, watered by the Kabul River) west of
the Indus and the sandy, eroded Potwar Plateau across northern Punjab to
Islamabad. At the southern edge of the Potwar, overlooking the plains, is
the dry Salt range. Northeast Punjab, around Jhelum and Sialkot, catches
a bit of the monsoon and is also fertile.

Western Mountains
From the Hindukush down through the tribal lands of North-West
Frontier Province (NWFP) and eastern Balochistan runs a range of dry,
scrubby, 1500m to 2500m mountains called the Suleiman in NWFP and
the Kirthar in Balochistan. The region’s most famous feature is the Khyber
Pass into Afghanistan.

Balochistan Plateau
This hilly, parched and inhospitable plateau across western Balochistan
averages about 300m in elevation and is the least populous part of the
country. Some of Pakistan’s earliest known inhabitants tended goats and
sheep here in the 4th millennium BC.
64 ENVIRONMENT •• The Land lonelyplanet.com

COLLIDING CONTINENTS
The tremendous vertical landscape of northern Pakistan draws adventurers from around the world;
it has shaped cultures and continues to challenge everyday life and travel. It is also a geological
showcase of the fascinating and awesome processes of mountain formation.
About 130 million years ago, when dinosaurs still roamed the earth, the ‘Indian Plate’ broke
away from the primordial supercontinent Gondwanaland (the ancestor of Africa, Australia and
Antarctica) and drifted north towards another landmass called Laurasia, the ‘Asian Plate’. Between
the converging continents lay a wide, shallow sea called Tethys, and off the shore of Laurasia
was a chain of volcanic islands, similar to present-day Indonesia or Japan.
Some 80 million years after breaking away from Gondwanaland, India collided with Asia. The
Indian Plate buried its edge under the Asian Plate, lifting it up. Both plates compressed and piled
up against each other. Trapped in the middle, the small oceanic plate supporting the offshore
island chain was tipped almost on end, and the Tethys Sea was swallowed up. The mountain
chain comprising the Himalaya, Karakoram and Hindukush ranges was born as a result of this
stupendous collision, which is still going on today. Continents are not easily slowed down – the
Indian Plate continues to plough northwards (at about 5cm per year) and the mountains are
still rising.

The Kashmir Earthquake

Insistent reminders of the strains of mountain-building are the earthquakes that constantly jar
these mountains. The earthquake that struck Kashmir (see p183) in October 2005 was the latest
and deadliest example of plate tectonic stress relief. As these magnificent mountains continue to
rise, one thing is certain – there will be more earthquakes. Alarmingly, scientists predict earth-
quakes 10 times the strength of the Kashmir earthquake are virtually inevitable because of the
enormous stresses still present in the earth’s crust.

The KKH Rocks

In many places as you travel along the Karakoram Hwy (KKH) there is nothing to see but bare
rocks; soaring cliffs and crumbling mountainsides. It seems very apparent that this is where rocks
rise from the earth, sharp-edged and raw.
From Islamabad to Kashgar, the KKH navigates this continental collision zone. Evidence of this
ongoing encounter is easy to see on a grand scale in the magnitude of the mountains, and up
close in the colours and patterns of the roadside rocks.
As it drove into and under Asia, the top of the Indian Plate was compressed and bulldozed
back, most severely along the leading edge, thrusting up escarpments (mountain fronts), such
as the steep terrain between Havelian and Abbottabad, and the Margalla and Murree hills near
Islamabad.
At Jajial, the KKH crosses the boundary from the Indian Plate to the volcanic island complex.
You can see evidence of this in the garnet-rich outcrops between Jajial and Pattan and the
black-banded pinkish rocks seen just east of Chilas.
The edge of the Asian Plate is exposed near Chalt, in Nagyr, in a multicoloured jumble of
sedimentary rocks, volcanic material, talc and greenish serpentine. From Chalt all the way to
Kashgar, the road crosses old Laurasia, with Laurasia’s former southern shore now heaved up
into the Karakoram range itself. There is a variety of metamorphic rocks in the Hunza Valley, with
large red garnets very common. White marble bands are conspicuous around Karimabad, and the
famous ruby mines of Hunza are in the hills between Karimabad and Hassanabad. From Karimabad
to Passu, the high spine of the Karakoram is composed mostly of 50-million- to 100-million-year-
old granite, part of a vast body extending eastwards for 2500km along the India–Asia boundary
to Lhasa and beyond. From Passu to the Khunjerab Pass the geology is dominated by dark- and
light-coloured shale and limestone, seen prominently in the sawtooth peaks around Passu.
The most dramatic geological ‘monuments’ on the Xinjiang side are the two mountain mas-
sifs of Kongur and Muztagh Ata, consisting of metamorphic rocks and granites that have been
squeezed up from deep in the earth’s crust, and then exposed in the last five million years.
lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe 65

GLOBAL WARMING & KARAKORAM GLACIERS

Several Karakoram glaciers have actually grown in recent years, while the majority of Greater
Himalayan glaciers have shrunk (about 20% reduction since 1962). Rather than refute the claims
of global warming, this appears to be an anomalous result, or an example of the exception prov-
ing the rule. Specifically, though there has been a rise in winter temperatures there has been a
slight drop in summer temperatures combined with a significant increase in snow and rainfall
in the Karakoram, which has led to glacial expansion and thickening.

Southeast Desert
From east of the Indus and Sutlej Rivers in Sindh and southern Punjab,
barren desert reaches across into Rajasthan in India. In Punjab it’s called
the Cholistan Desert, in Sindh the Great Thar Desert, and near the sea it
becomes mangrove swamps.

Indus Plain
The alluvial plains of the Indus and its four main tributaries – from north
to south, the Jhelum, Chenab, Ravi and Sutlej Rivers – are Pakistan’s heart,
where most of its people live and most of its food is grown. The plains, all
within Sindh and Punjab (punjab means ‘five waters’), constitute about a third
of the country. Though they get little rain, the fertile grassland doabs (the
wedges of land between the rivers) are irrigated by a vast complex of canals.

WILDLIFE
Pakistan’s ocean-to-alpine geography, with its myriad habitats, supports an
amazing variety of animals and plants: 188 species of mammals, 666 species
of migratory and resident birds, 174 species of reptiles, 16 species of am-
phibians and 525 species of fish. Of the approximately 5000 wild plants, 372
species are endemic to Pakistan. Yet wildlife tourism (other than hunting) is
undeveloped, protected areas have very little infrastructure, and – apart from Stones of Silence: Journeys
trekking into remote areas – it is difficult to see most of Pakistan’s wildlife. in the Himalaya by Dr
George Schaller is a
Animals highly readable account
Hundreds of species of fish and shellfish live along Pakistan’s Arabian Sea of the author’s research
coastline, and two species of sea turtle (green and olive Ridley) nest here. into the creatures of the
The coastal and riverine wetlands, including the immense Indus River delta, Hindukush, Karakoram
are home to many animals including wild boar and marsh crocodile. The and Himalaya, includ-
wetlands also play host to numerous migratory bird species. The lower to ing the majestic snow
mid reaches of the Indus River are the only habitat of one of the world’s rarest leopard.
mammals, the Indus River dolphin (see the boxed text, p67).
Away from the rivers and the extensive irrigation system, the plains of
Punjab and Sindh are largely desert. Large mammals are rare and sparsely
distributed, and include leopard, black buck (reintroduced to Lal Suhanra
National Park), chinkara gazelle, urial (red sheep) and the Sindh ibex.
Pakistan’s only species of wild horse, the Indian wild ass, migrates from
India to a corner of the Rann of Kutch in southern Sindh near the mouth of
the Indus, while there have been unconfirmed sightings of the Tibetan wild
ass along the border with China.
Wild animal species in Pakistan’s lower mountain forests include black and
brown bear, wild cat, wild boar, jackal, fox, hare, rhesus monkey, porcupine,
snake, lizard and bat.
In the high Karakoram and Hindukush the variety of wild animals is
surprisingly rich, though you are unlikely to see much along the Karakoram
Hwy (KKH) or in the vicinity of settlements. Inhabitants include snow
 66 E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe lonelyplanet.com

leopard, wolf, Himalayan ibex, Kashmir markhor (a wild goat that figures in
Twitchers should grab a the region’s oldest legends), Marco Polo sheep and bharal (blue sheep). On
copy of the up-to-date the Chinese side of the border, the sparsely populated regions of Xinjiang
paperback field guide provide a habitat for further elusive creatures including snow leopard, argali
Birds of Pakistan by sheep and wild yak.
Richard Grimmett, Tim One creature you’re likely to see if you cross the Khunjerab Pass, the Deosai
Inskipp and Tom Roberts. Plains or the Subash Plateau in Xinjiang in warmer weather is the golden
marmot, sunning itself near its burrow, whistling in alarm when you get close.
Others you might see while trekking are the Tibetan red fox, ermine, alpine
weasel, cape hare, mouse-hare (or pika), and the high mountain vole. Bigger,
shyer residents include black bear, brown bear and the Himalayan lynx.

ENDANGERED SPECIES
The Snow Leopard Con- The destruction and fragmentation of Pakistan’s natural habitats – with the
servancy (www.snow inevitable extinction and near-extinction of many species of wildlife – is
leopardconservancy due to human population pressure and subsequent land clearing. The most
.org) has info on the prominent animals threatened or endangered with extinction are the Indus
biology, mythology and River dolphin (see the boxed text, opposite), snow leopard, Marco Polo
conservation of snow sheep and Houbara bustard.
leopards including how The charismatic snow leopard has been a symbol for conservation for
you can help save this decades in Pakistan and bordering countries. The rugged Karakoram and
magnificent cat. Hindukush mountains are a significant habitat for this species and are the
focus of international research and conservation efforts.

BIRD-WATCHING IN PAKISTAN
Pakistan lies on a major migration route from Central Asia and Siberia. River valleys act as natural
channels and flight paths, and Pakistan’s greatest waterway has given its name to a major flight
path – the Indus Flyway. At least 10 species of duck and goose commonly migrate from as far
away as Siberia; hundreds of thousands move through the valleys from September to April, a
fact known to hunters for centuries. Haleji Lake in Sindh is a superb water-bird sanctuary that in
winter can feature dozens of species, including duck, goose, heron and egret, and even flamingo
and pelican. Pakistan is a signatory to the Ramsar Convention to ensure the conservation of
wetlands, and has designated nine wetlands, including Haleji Lake, as Ramsar sites.
The forests of the foothills feature birds common to western Asia and even Europe. Among
the stands of oak and chestnut may be found the woodpecker; the wryneck, a superbly cam-
ouflaged relative of the woodpecker; and the unmistakable hoopoe, with salmon-pink plumage
and a showy crest.
The higher regions are subject to extremes of temperature and precipitation, yet in spring,
when alpine meadows are in bloom, birds of many varieties ascend to higher elevations to court
and nest. Larger species include the majestic lammergeier (or bearded vulture), a huge bird of
prey with a wingspan of nearly 3m. Other raptors that may be encountered are the golden eagle
and peregrine falcon.
The jewels in the crown for many bird-watchers are the fabulous pheasants, of which Pakistan
has several species. The Himalayan monal is without doubt the most spectacular, and this beauti-
ful, iridescent pheasant is still common in many parts of its range. Other birds in the pheasant
family that may be encountered in the high country include the Himalayan snowcock, at higher
altitudes, and the more common rock partridge (or chukar).
Even the rugged deserts hold an assortment of birds. Largest is the bustard, of which the
Houbara is the most widespread. Sandgrouse are similar to pigeons, but superbly camouflage
themselves among desert rubble. The various species of sandgrouse are all seed-eaters, but are
dependent on water and will fly up to 40km a day to drink. They have also made a remarkable
adaptation to desert life: they can soak up water with their breast feathers and carry it to the
nest to refresh their young.
lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe 67

INDUS RIVER DOLPHIN

Endemic to the Indus River, the Indus River dolphin (Platanista gangetica minor) is regarded as
one of the most endangered dolphins in the world. This freshwater dolphin is effectively blind,
an adaptation to living in the silt-laden waters of the Indus, where it hunts crustaceans and fish
using echolocation.
Although surveys have not been vigorous or conclusive, it is unlikely that there are more than
1000 individual dolphins remaining in a 1200km stretch of the river, and these are separated into
smaller populations by impassable irrigation barrages. The largest population, of approximately
500, exists in the Indus River Dolphin Reserve between the Sukkur and Guddu barrages in Sindh.
Significant factors responsible for the declining dolphin population include the reduction and
degradation of their habitat since the construction of the Indus irrigation system, their being hunted
for meat and for traditional medicine purposes, and their accidental capture in fishing nets.
Other river dolphin populations occur in the Ganges, Brahmaputra and Meghna Rivers and
their major tributaries in India, Bangladesh and Nepal; separate species exist in the Yangtze River
in China, and the Amazon in South America.

The Marco Polo sheep, a muscular, pony-sized sheep with enormous

curly horns, was once common in the Khunjerab Pass area; however, the
construction of the KKH saw thousands of the sheep slaughtered for food and
trophies. The Khunjerab National Park was created to protect the remain-
ing population at the behest of famed megafauna conservationist George
Schaller. Dr Schaller is currently promoting an international park centred Wildlife of Pakistan
on the Wakhan Corridor with similar aims. (www.wildlifeofpakistan
The Houbara bustard is a winter migratory visitor from Central Asia that .com) is dedicated to
is efficiently hunted by wealthy Arabs using falcons in the plains of Sindh and increasing awareness of
Balochistan. It is such a popular quarry that it is illegally trapped and exported Pakistan’s wildlife. It has
to other countries to be hunted there. Another threatened bird is the elusive information on protected
western tragopan, a richly patterned ground-dwelling pheasant. Although it areas, endangered
was once common in the Western Himalayas, only a small population now animals and current
survives in the Kayal and Palas Valleys in Indus Kohistan, and in AJK. projects, as well as links
Other threatened species include the Balochistan black bear, Chiltan to conservation and
goat, Kashmir markhor, urial (a wild sheep with several subspecies from wildlife sites.
Balochistan to the northern mountains), woolly flying squirrel, great Indian
bustard, lesser florican, Siberian crane and two species of marine turtle
(green and olive Ridley).

Plants
Pakistan has more than 5000 species of trees, shrubs, wildflowers and grasses
that are irregularly distributed from desert plains to verdant river valleys to
alpine meadows. If not for irrigation, the plains would be mostly desert. There
are some patches of forest along the Indus and its tributaries, but most of
the plant life you will see is cultivated. The forests of southern Chitral, Swat,
Hazara and northern AJK include oak and chestnut trees (and eucalyptus,
acacia and other plantation trees for fodder and flood control) in their lower
reaches. Higher up are pine, spruce, juniper, deodar (Indian cedar), birch
and willow, along with poppy, columbine, forget-me-not, mallow, geranium
and many other spring wildflowers. A notable tree in the Northern Areas,
especially around Karimabad, is the upright poplar that is planted along rivers
and irrigation canals, adding a golden glow to the landscape in autumn.
Trekkers who have been to Nepal may recognise the spiky buckthorn
growing around mountain villages (particularly animal enclosures) and along
trails. The bright-orange berries can be made into a vitamin C–packed drink.
One of the delights of the Karakoram is its unexpectedly lush, glacier-watered
 68 E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s & P r o t e c t e d A re a s lonelyplanet.com

pastures, hidden in high valleys. Near and above the tree line in northern
Chitral, Swat Kohistan, the Gilgit basin and Hunza-Gojal, alpine wildflowers
abound in summer, carpeting the pastures. The few alpine trees there are
mainly dwarf juniper, and the delicate flowers include the magenta alpine
primrose, golden buttercup and the rare blue Himalayan poppy.

NATIONAL PARKS & PROTECTED AREAS

Setting aside land for wildlife protection was practised by the early rulers of
Pakistan to ensure the supply of game for hunting. Forest reserves set up by
the British administration also effectively protected habitat and wildlife. In
1966 to ’67, at the request of the government of Pakistan, the World Wide
Fund for Nature (WWF) performed a series of surveys that revealed a steady
decline in Pakistan’s populations of dozens of species, especially mammals.
IUCN (World Conservation
A high-profile government committee then recommended the establishment
Union) Pakistan (www
of three categories of protected areas:
.iucn.pk), founded in
National Park Accessible to the public, but with a total ban on hunting, trapping or capture of wild
1976, is the force behind
animals; disturbing or felling plants or trees; clearing land for cultivation or mining; pollution of water
national and provincial
flowing into or through the park; and on structures except those necessary for park operation.
conservation strategies
Wildlife Sanctuary Mostly former princely hunting grounds, now to be off limits to the public,
and projects. It has offices
with similar prohibitions as for a national park, plus a ban on the introduction of exotic species and
in Karachi, Islamabad,
domestic animals.
Peshawar, Quetta and
Game Reserve Also mostly former royal hunting grounds, similar to wildlife sanctuaries except
Gilgit.
that special hunting permits are available, for specific species, dates and areas.

For years all this ‘protection’ remained fairly theoretical, with little money for
either surveys or management, and insufficient legal provision for the control
of land use. Where action was taken, such as in the Khunjerab National Park,
it failed to take account of the traditional interests and livelihoods of local
people and ran up against fierce opposition. In effect, it was counterproduc-
tive to the conservation aims of the park. The government has since engaged
the help of a number of conservation organisations, especially WWF and
World Conservation Union (IUCN), to assist with further surveys, public
input and management plans.
Pakistan now has 225 protected areas, including 14 national parks (see
table), 99 wildlife sanctuaries and 96 game reserves, equating to approxi-
mately 91,700 sq km or 10.5% of the country and representing most major
habitats. Don’t expect to find formal public offices, maps or other informa-
tion sources at parks except for at a few parks close to population centres
in Punjab or Sindh. The WWF, IUCN and Mountain Areas Conservancy
project (MACP) have information brochures explaining programmes in the
Northern Areas and NWFP.

Pakistan’s Best National Parks

CENTRAL KARAKORAM NATIONAL PARK
At 9738 sq km, this is by far Pakistan’s largest national park, taking in
many of the world’s loftiest peaks (including K2) and longest glaciers
(Hispar, Biafo and Baltoro) in the highest reaches of the Karakoram. It’s
mostly in Baltistan, south of the Khunjerab National Park and east of the
KKH and the Gilgit–Skardu road. It was designated in 1993 in response
to severe ecological pressure on the Baltoro Glacier region as a result of
both trekking and military activities.

CHITRAL GOL NATIONAL PARK

This is a beautiful valley in the Hindukush (see p228) that’s famous for its
Kashmir markhor, magnificent mountain goats, and snow leopards (which
lonelyplanet.com ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues 69

National Park Province Size (sq km)

Ayubia NWFP 33
Central Karakoram Northern Areas 9738
Chinji Punjab 61
Chitral Gol NWFP 78
Deosai Plains Northern Areas 1400
Hazarganji-Chiltan Balochistan 156
Hingol Balochistan 6990
Khunjerab Northern Areas 2270
Kirthar Sindh 3087
Lal Suhanra Punjab 516
Machiara AJK 135
Margalla Hills Islamabad 174
Shandur-Hundrup Northern Areas 518
Sheikh Buddin NWFP 155

are now only occasional visitors). Other wildlife includes the Siberian ibex
and Ladakh urial, black bears and wolves.
Renowned wildlife
DEOSAI PLAINS NATIONAL PARK biologist, author and
This park (p291) was declared in 1993 in response to the impact of increas- photographer Dr George
ing tourism on the fragile subalpine vegetation and a vulnerable population Schaller witnessed his
of Himalayan brown bears. first snow leopard in
Chitral Gol National Park.
KHUNJERAB NATIONAL PARK
This park (p317) was declared in 1975 at the urging of wildlife biologist Dr
George Schaller, to protect Marco Polo sheep. The government then prom-
ised, but never delivered, compensation to local people whose traditional
grazing rights had suddenly evaporated as a result of the declaration. Little
else was done until 1989, when an international workshop urged a strict
ban on grazing and hunting in a ‘core area’ of the park. Most local people,
whose livelihoods depend on grazing yaks and other animals in those
valleys, refused to cooperate, and a suit was filed to reverse the grazing
ban. The suit was eventually lost, and herders and hunters were ejected,
however, with the help of the government’s main consultant on the park
(the WWF), a process of community consultation was set in motion.

LAL SUHANRA NATIONAL PARK

Lal Suhanra (p125) was declared Pakistan’s first national park in 1972.
Located in the Bahawalpur district of Punjab, it features a large lake that’s
ideal for bird-watching, and is home to a black buck breeding programme.
The black buck was virtually extinct in this part of its range but the pro-
gramme now boasts well over 500 antelope. The park also hosts hog deer,
chinkara gazelle and nilgai antelope.

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Pakistan’s greatest challenges are intricately linked to the environment:
deforestation, desertification, salinity, pollution, and energy and water
shortages all play a significant role in the cycle of poverty and the limita-
tions to economic development.
Only 5% of Pakistan’s land is forested, and natural forests are declining
at an alarming rate. Especially vulnerable are the mountain and mangrove
forests. Trees are an essential resource for rural communities and as a
habitat for wildlife. Unregulated private logging in some of the Northern
© Lonely Planet Publications
70 E N V I R O N M E N T • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l I s s u e s lonelyplanet.com

Areas has led to severe slope instability, water pollution and land degrada-
tion, and few profits have accrued to local people.
Deforestation coupled with overgrazing can lead to desertification, and
to soil salinity – a problem that directly affects food production in this
primarily arid country. As much as one quarter of the country’s arable
land is affected by erosion and salinity, and it is claimed that as much as
two million hectares of once-productive agricultural land has been aban-
doned in the irrigation-canal areas as a result of salinity. But the news is
not all bad and solutions aimed at addressing these problems (including
wide-scale reafforestation) continue to be researched and implemented.
The cities have their own environmental problems. Air pollution is the
most obvious, and it isn’t surprising to learn that almost all samples col-
lected in Pakistan’s major cities exceed World Health Organization (WHO)
guideline values. Water shortage is perhaps the most politically explosive
issue in Pakistan’s south. Most people living in Karachi do not have ac-
cess to clean water, resulting in increasing levels of health problems and
occasional civil disturbances when local politicians agitate for this most
basic of life’s requirements.
Pakistan’s chronic shortage of energy is a serious limitation to economic
progress and while the government pursues thermal and hydropower
projects, it has been very slow to adopt newer sustainable technologies
such as solar and wind power. On the bright side, several hundred villages
in Balochistan and Punjab have been earmarked for solar energy projects,
and a small wind-powered plant operates in Rawalpindi.

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications

ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI

71

Islamabad &
Rawalpindi
The so-called twin cities of Islamabad and Rawalpindi are commonly viewed as one unit,
and indeed, one day the two will physically merge. However, these twins, with separate
ancestry and distinct personalities, are far from identical. Islamabad is a late-20th-century
capital laid out in straight lines and right angles: a proud metric showcase of government
and administration. Rawalpindi, on the other hand, grew from a ramshackle backwater vil-
lage to a sprawling hub on the Grand Trunk Rd during the 19th century.

The twins’ personalities are rather like chalk and cheese: Islamabad is patently more subdued
and suburban with broad avenues, grassy parkland, shiny restaurants and just a whiff of the
exasperating human and mechanical crush that epitomises most subcontinental cities. For those
with a penchant for the adrenaline-pumping hullabaloo that a typical South Asian metropolis
delivers, all that awaits in Rawalpindi – affectionately dubbed ‘Pindi’ – a mere 15km away.

Neither city is a major tourist drawcard in its own right – most foreign travellers only pause
here to arrange visas/permits or use it as a jumping-off point to other destinations – yet not
far away are the fascinating archaeological digs around the Gandharan city of Taxila. Here,
Buddhism and the sublime Graeco-Buddhist art evolved and flourished, and its glory can be
appreciated in Taxila’s splendid museum and at several major sites. And if the energy-zapping
heat of the plateau starts to take its toll during the warmer months, you can flee to the cool
mountain air of Murree, an erstwhile British Raj hill station. Even better, ramble around the less
developed, more serene hill stations strung out along the forested ridges known as the Galis, a
truly welcoming escape from the frazzling rat race and other vicissitudes of life on the road.

HIGHLIGHTS
Marvel at Islamabad’s Shah Faisal
Mosque (p77), a modern geometrical
interpretation of a desert tent with rocket-
like minarets, on a phenomenal scale
The
Ramble around the breezy Margalla Hills Galis
(p79) – a slice of natural beauty right on Murree

Islamabad’s doorstep
Delve into the glorious legacy of Gand-
haran civilisation at Taxila Museum (p88)
and the nearby archaeological sites (p89) Taxila

Inhale cool, pine-scented mountain air on Margalla Hills

Islamabad
one of the blood-pumping hiking trails Rawalpindi
around Murree and the Galis (p90)
Feast on spicy kebabs at an earthy street
stall in Rawalpindi (p85), or twirl spa-
ghetti at one of the trendy multicuisine
restaurants in Islamabad (p83)

ISLAMABAD: 1,018,000 RAWALPINDI: 3,039,550

ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 72 I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com

HISTORY ISLAMABAD & 0

0
2 km
1 mile
The plateau setting of Islamabad and RAWALPINDI Approx Scale

Rawalpindi has revealed evidence of a pre-

Nurpur
historic culture flourishing in the region, and A Saidpur
B Shahan
Village Village
it is known that a Buddhist town once existed
on the site of Rawalpindi. 1 Margalla
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The city of Rawalpindi had a turbulent al
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development, its strategic location attracting Faisal Mosque
an
-e-
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the attention of successive invading forces. a ya To Murree
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Protected as a Sikh garrison town and astride a m)
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(120km)
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ua
portance as a trading centre, before coming to i- e-Q
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the attention of the British, who seized the city h ya Kashmir
(K Chowk
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from the Sikhs in 1849. The British built Asia’s A

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largest cantonment south of the city (canton-

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as Pakistan Monument
Zero Point
ments were the tidy colonial enclaves built next -e-K
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take long for the heat-sensitive British to de- am
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velop their cool hill retreat at nearby Murree.
As Karachi was too far from everything, To Peshawar
(165km)
a decision was made in the 1950s to build a Faizabad
Skyways Bus
new capital near Rawalpindi and the summer Survey of Station & Hotel
3 Pakistan
hill stations. To avoid urban chaos and decay,

Sh
Rawalpindi

ah
Cricket Stadium
architect-planner Konstantinos Doxiades’ idea

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dences, shops and parks. Construction began a Satellite
Peshawar ay Town
(165km) Kh Chandni Chowk
in 1961, during which time Rawalpindi enjoyed Pir Wadhai
Bus Station
a brief period as Pakistan’s temporary capital. Asg Rawalpindi
har General Hospital
Today, Islamabad is a slowly expanding city, Ma
ll R
d
with the ongoing construction of broad new
4 Rajah
Leh

roads and modern commercial buildings. Committee

Bazaar Chowk
Islamabad
Fowara Chowk
RAWALPINDI International
Airport Rd
River

ORIENTATION Gran
Liaquat
Chowk
Ai
rp
or
t

d Tru
The two cities, 15km apart, are effectively a nk R
d Saddar
To Pir Wadhai
Rd

single mega-town with bazaars at one end and Chowk (2km);

Bazaar
ee

Th
urr

Taxila (29km); eM
bureaucrats at the other. Transport between
M

Hasan Abdal (45km); all

KKH (90km);
them is straightforward and relatively fast. The Peshawar (165km)
Cantonment
airport is about 5km northeast of Rawalpindi’s See Central
Rawalpindi
Saddar Bazaar and can be reached by Suzukis Ayub
Gr

Map (p78) National

a

5
nd

and taxis (see p87). Park

Trun
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Intercity Buses/Minibuses Rd
Islamabad
%051 To Chakwal (88km);
Jhelum (97km);
Islamabad has no real axis or centre. Each sec- Lahore (280km)

tor of the city, built around a markaz (commer-

cial centre), has a letter-number designation (eg along the bus line, are Aabpara (ah-pa-ra,
F-7), with quarters numbered clockwise. For southwest G-6), Melody Market (or Civic
example, F-7/1 is in the southwest corner, F-7/2 Centre; G-6), Sitara Market (G-7), Super
in the northwest. These Orwellian coordinates Market (F-6), Jinnah Market (or Jinnah Super;
also have names; F and G are Shalimar and F-7) and Ayub Market (F-8).
Ramna, so, F-7 is Shalimar-7, and so on. Other useful landmarks are Karachi Co
But as a practical matter, sectors are called (G-9) and Peshawar Mor (G-8/1) in the west
by their markets. The main ones, in sequence of the city. Between the Fs and Gs is a com-
 ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
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mercial belt called the Blue Area, which has Emergency

some of the capital’s more upmarket shops Police (%15; h24hr)
and restaurants.
Foreigners’ Registration
Rawalpindi Foreigners’ Registration Office (FRO) Islamabad
%051 (Map pp74-5; %9261082; City Court, Ayub Market, F-8;
The city’s centre is bordered by Murree Rd h9am-3pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri); Rawalpindi
and the Mall (also called Shahrah-e-Quaid- (Map p78; %9270611; Civil Courts) Only nationals of
e-Azam). The cheaper hotels are in Saddar 16 countries are required to register – see p378. The
and Rajah Bazaars and along Murree Rd at Rawalpindi office is beside the senior superintendent of
Liaquat (lyah-kut) Chowk and Committee police (SSP), southeast of Saddar Bazaar; telephone for
Chowk. The train station is in Saddar, the Pir operating hours.
Wadhai bus station is northwest of town and
the airport is to the east. Internet Access
South of Saddar, the Cantonment has mid- Internet cafés in Islamabad are scattered
range and top-end hotels and traces remaining around the various sector markets and along
from the colonial years. At Rajah, the biggest the strip at Aabpara (north of the Rose &
bazaar, Fowara Chowk has six ‘spoke’ roads Jasmine Garden). In Rawalpindi, the great-
to Saddar, Pir Wadhai and Murree Rd. The est concentration is in Saddar Bazaar. Ask
city’s growing end is Satellite Town, meet- your hotel which is the nearest. The busi-
ing Islamabad at the local transport junction ness centres of five-star hotels have by far the
of Faizabad. most comfortable internet facilities but you
pay through the nose. Two good independ-
Maps ent operators:
The Pakistan Tourism Development Dandy’s (Map pp74-5; Super Market, F-6, Islamabad; per
Corporation (see p77) has a free Islamabad hr Rs 25; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 3-9pm Sun)
& Rawalpindi map, although the extra Web@ge Net Café (Map p78; Murree Rd, Committee
Rawalpindi section is of limited use. Good Chowk, Rawalpindi; per hr Rs 20; h10am-midnight)
bookshops sell several fairly detailed maps
including the Islamabad Street Map (Rs 100). Libraries
The Survey of Pakistan (Map p72; %9290230; Murree National Library (Map pp74-5; %9202544; Isfahani
Rd, Faizabad; h8am-3pm Mon-Thu, 8am-noon Fri) stocks Rd, Islamabad; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Near the Diplomatic
maps covering all regions and major cities, Enclave, the library has a large reference collection (many
including a detailed Islamabad & Rawalpindi in English) and newspapers.
Guide Map (Rs 100) and an Islamabad Street
Map (Rs 100). Medical Services
Cantonment General Hospital (Map p78;
INFORMATION %9270907; Saddar Rd, Saddar Bazaar,
Bookshops Rawalpindi)
London Book Company (Map pp74-5; %2823852; Federal Government Services Hospital (Poly Clinic;
3 Kohsar Market, F-6/3, Islamabad; h9am-9.30pm Mon- Map pp74-5; %9218300; Hospital Rd, G-6/2, Islamabad)
Sat) Small café upstairs. Near the Blue Area.
Mr Books (Map pp74-5; %2278843; Super Market, F-6, Pakistan Institute of Medical Science (PIMS; Map
Islamabad; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-10pm Sun) pp74-5; %9261182; Faisal Ave, G-8/3, Islamabad)
Old Book Bank (Map p78; %5519644; 53/1 Kashmir Rawalpindi General Hospital (Map p72; %9290309;
Rd, Rawalpindi; h9am-10pm) Good for secondhand cnr Murree & Asghar Mall Rds, Rawalpindi)
books, as is the big book market that fills the streets of Shifa International (off Map pp74-5; %4446801;
Saddar on Sunday. Pitras Bukhari Rd, H-8/4, Islamabad) Regarded as the
Saeed Book Bank (Map pp74-5; %2651656; www best.
.saeedbookbank.com; Jinnah Market, F-7, Islamabad;
h9.45am-11pm) The biggest bookshop in Pakistan, Money
with a massive and diverse collection, from guidebooks to Private moneychangers are grouped in the
gardening. Highly recommended. Blue Area in Islamabad – there’s a bunch be-
Variety Books (Map p78; %5583397; Bank Rd, hind the Usmania Restaurant. It’s worth com-
Rawalpindi; h10am-10pm) paring rates, as competition is high. At the
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 74 I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • I s l a m a b a d lonelyplanet.com

ISLAMABAD
A B C D

32
Marg
1 K hy alla H
aba
n-e- ills
Ma rgal
a 36

30

B a h a r i y a Rd
Siac
E-8 hin
Rd
Marghzar
Zoo

8th Ave Shalimar 7

E-7
2 Minibus 1 & 6
Khayaban-e-lqbal Khayaban-e-lqbal

Kohsar Rd
Faisal Ave

29 59
16 Gol
Market
Park Rd
8th Ave Shalimar 8
Kohistan Rd
9th Ave Shalimer 8

Ayub F-7 47
Market College Rd
Jinnah 60
F-8 8 Market 25

7th Ave Shalimar 7

7th Ave Shalimar 6

63
12 61
26 Minibus 1 & 6 Bhitai Rd
Johar Rd

51
3 Kaghan Rd

38
49

To McDonald’s (1km);
Zone Bowls (2km); Nazim-ud-din Rd 76
Karachi Co (2.5km)
Jinnah Ave (Khyabani-e-Quaid-e-Azam) 39 Jinnah Ave (Khyabani-e-Quaid-e-Azam)
6 58 57 64 77 62
44 Fazal-ul-Haq Rd 68
8th Ave Ramna 7
9th Ave Ramna 8

4
a 6

22
v e Ramn
Faisal Ave
9th Ave Ramna 9

7th A

Amir
8th Ave Ramna 8

7th Ave Ramna 7

an Rd Hanna Rd Plaza
am Minibus 120
41
Ch
G-8 53
Sitara
Market
G-7

Capital
5 Development
Authority Aabpara
(CDA)
42
24 Minibus 120 70 Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy
Peshawar Minibus 1 & 6/Intercity Bus 48 27
Mor Zero
Shahrah-e-Kashmir Point Shahrah-e-Kashmir
To Karachi Co
(2.5km)
37
West Shakarparian
Lookout & Pakistan Rose &
Monument Jasmine
Minibus 1 & 6/Intercity Bus

Garden
East Lookout
H-8

6
Rd
en

G ard

To Shifa To Rawalpindi
International (15km)
(1km) 31
 ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
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0 1 km
0 0.5 miles

E F G H

Saidpur
Village
35

2
Khayaban-e-lqbal
Hill Rd

17 Kohsar
10th St Market
14t h St

50
F-6
School Rd
Nurpur Shahan
Ataturk Ave Shalimar 5

65 20 56 Village
Super
Ataturk Ave Shalimar 6

23 Market Aga Kha (Bari Imam

nR Shrine)
d Intercity Bus 3
34
47
Rd

ur
Secretariat
Pak Telecom

rp
Nu
Central Telegraph
Market Rd

& Telephone Office

0
Nazim-ud-din Rd 12
Blue Area 15 69 us
ib
National
Presidency in
Assembly M
74 66
Minibus 1 & 6/

Lukman Hakeem Rd
Intercity Bus

7
Argentina 1
4
4th Ave
Constitution Ave

Park
18 73
Ataturk Ave Ramna 5

33
Ataturk Ave Ramna 6
Garden Rd

Covered Supreme
Melody Court
Market Market
Saddar Rd 40 Isfahani Rd
Bazaar Rd
45
2 4
G-6 10
4th St

9
1st St

13 Diplomatic
67 Enclave
72 14 11 3 (G-5)

28 5
2nd Rd

55 52
Aabpara 71
Market 5
Minibus 120
43 21 Embassy Rd
75
Shahrah-e-Kashmir

54

Kashmir
Chowk
Murree Rd
Jinnah
Stadium To Murree (44km); 6
Patriata (64km);
Bhurban (59km);
d

Nathiagali (77km)
Murree R

19

Rawal
Lake Rãwal
Lake
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 76 I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • I n f o r m a t i o n lonelyplanet.com

INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hot Spot, The........................... 59 D2

Afghan Embassy.........................1 F4 Daman-e-Koh...........................30 D1 Jason's Steakhouse.................(see 47)
Australian High Commission.......2 F4 Lok Virsa Museum.................... 31 C6 Kabul Restaurant...................... 60 C3
British High Commission............. 3 G5 Margalla Hills National Park......32 D1 KC Grill.....................................61 C3
Canadian High Commission....... 4 G4 National Library........................ 33 G4 KFC........................................(see 65)
Chinese Embassy........................ 5 H5 Nurpur Shahan Village (Bari Imam Omar Khayam.......................... 62 D4
Citibank...................................... 6 C4 Shrine).................................. 34 H3 Pappasalli's Italian Restaurant...63 C3
Dandy's..................................(see 56) Saidpur Village...........................35 E1 Pizzeria Pizza House................. 64 D4
Excise & Tax Department..........(see 8) Shah Faisal Mosque...................36 B1 Rakaposhi...............................(see 52)
Federal Government Services Hospital Shakarparian & Pakistan Red Onion..............................(see 64)
(Poly Clinic).............................7 E4 Monument........................... 37 D6 United Bakery............................65 E3
Foreigners' Registration Office....8 B3 Usmania....................................66 E4
French Embassy...........................9 F5 SLEEPING Wang Fu................................(see 39)
German Embassy...................... 10 G5 Chateau Royal..........................38 B3 Zamana..................................(see 52)
Indian High Commission........... 11 G5 Envoy Continental Hotel........... 39 C4
International Mail Office...........12 C3 Holiday Inn...............................40 E4 SHOPPING
Iranian Embassy........................ 13 G5 Hotel al-Hujurat........................ 41 C4 Sunday Bazaar...........................67 E5
Japanese Embassy.....................14 F5 Hotel Ambassador.................... 42 D5
JS Bank.....................................15 F4 Hotel Friends Inn.......................43 E5 TRANSPORT
Kazakhstan Embassy.................16 A2 Hotel Marina International........ 44 C4 Aero Asia................................. 68 D4
London Book Company.............17 E2 Hotel Ornate.............................45 E4 Air France..................................69 F4
Main Post Office.......................18 E4 Jacaranda................................. 46 C3 Avis........................................(see 27)
Ministry of Tourism...................19 E6 Marriott Hotel...........................47 F3 British Airways........................(see 52)
Mr Books..................................20 E3 New Islamabad Hotel............... 48 D5 Bus Stop................................... 70 C5
National Bank............................21 E5 Peninsula..................................49 C3 Emirates..................................(see 69)
Pakistan Institute of Medical Science Poet, The...................................50 E3 Gulf Air...................................(see 69)
(PIMS)..................................22 B4 Residence, The......................... 51 D3 Minibuses to Diplomatic
Pakistan Tourism Development Serena Hotel.............................52 F5 Enclave..................................71 E5
Corporation (PTDC)..............23 E3 Simara Hotel............................. 53 C5 Minibuses to Sitara and Peshawar
Regional Passport Office...........24 A5 Tourist Campsite.......................54 E5 Mor.......................................72 E5
Saeed Book Bank...................... 25 D3 Youth Hostel Islamabad............55 E5 Pakistan Railways Reservation &
Senior Superintendent of Police Information Office................73 E4
(SSP).....................................26 A3 EATING PIA............................................74 E4
Travel Walji's............................ 27 D5 Afghan Bakery........................(see 60) Police Buses to Embassies..........75 F5
United States Embassy.............. 28 H5 Al-Maghreb............................(see 52) Shaheen Air International......... 76 D3
Uzbekistan Embassy..................29 B2 American Steak House..............56 E3 Singapore Airlines...................(see 40)
Dragon City.............................. 57 C4 Thai Airways...........................(see 40)
Haleem Ghar............................ 58 C4 Xinjiang Airways....................... 77 D4

time of research the airport moneychangers that change cash and travellers cheques, including one at
were only changing foreign currency (not Melody Market (%9204665) in Islamabad.
travellers cheques). Standard Chartered Bank (Map p78; %5527286;
Most banks in Saddar Bazaar in Rawalpindi cnr Haider & Canning Rds, Rawalpindi; h9am-5pm Mon-
exchange foreign currency. There are also Thu, 9am-1.30pm & 3-5pm Fri)
several moneychangers near the corner of
Kashmir Rd and the Mall – they keep longer Post
hours than the banks, offer slightly better International Mail Office (Map pp74-5;
rates (but not always) and will often change %111111117; Jinnah Market, F-7, Islamabad)
travellers cheques. Islamabad Main Post Office (Map pp74-5;
Citibank (%111333333; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am- %9201184; Melody Market, G-6, Islamabad; h9am-
12.30pm Fri, 9am-1.30pm Sat) Islamabad (Map pp74-5; 1pm & 1.30-8pm Mon-Sat, poste restante 9am-2pm
Jinnah Ave, Blue Area); Rawalpindi (Map p78; Adamjee Rd) Mon-Sat)
Changes major currencies and travellers cheques, and has Rawalpindi Main Post Office (Map p78; %9271506;
an ATM accepting most cards. Kashmir Rd, Rawalpindi; h9am-1pm & 1.30-9pm
JS Bank (Map pp74-5; %111777999; Ali Plaza, Jinnah Mon-Sat)
Ave, Blue Area, Islamabad; h9am-1.30pm & 2.30-5pm
Mon-Thu, 9am-12.30pm & 3-5pm Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat) Telephone
Has an Amex-only ATM. The best rates for interstate and international
National Bank Islamabad (Map pp74-5; %2826848; telephone calls are at the numerous public call
Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy, Aabpara, G-6; h9am-5pm offices (PCOs) in the sector markets, the Blue
Mon-Thu, 9am-1.30pm & 3-5pm Fri); Rawalpindi (Map Area and Aabpara in Islamabad, and scat-
p78; %9272676; Bank Rd; h9am-1.30pm Mon-Thu, tered throughout the bazaars of Rawalpindi.
9am-12.30pm Fri & Sat) The National has several branches For details about phonecards, see p377.
 ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
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Tourist Information array of traditional handicrafts including em-

Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation broidered costumes, old jewellery and intricate
(PTDC; Map pp74-5; %9202766; Super Market, Aga woodcarvings – it is well worth a visit. The refer-
Khan Rd, F-6, Islamabad; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, closed ence library has resources on history, art, crafts,
1-2pm Fri) This office (next to a Caltex petrol station) has traditional music and ethnography. Books and
a free map of Islamabad and Rawalpindi as well as maps other media of folk and classical music can
and brochures to other Pakistani destinations. The staff be purchased at the bookshop. Photography
can make reservations at PTDC hotels throughout the inside the museum is prohibited.
country and help organise onward transport. To get to the hill lookouts, get off the bus at
Tourism Development Corporation of Punjab the Zero Point stop, cross the road and follow
(TDCP; Map p78; %9272128; www.tdcp.punjab.gov a path for 20 minutes up the hill. For Lok Virsa
.pk; 44 Mall Plaza, The Mall, Rawalpindi; h8am-1pm Museum, you can continue walking over the
& 1.30-8pm Mon-Sat) Has a few brochures and arranges hill; or from the bus stop cross the road, bear
tailor-made trips to various Pakistani destinations (prices right and enter the woods on a path where
on application). an approach road joins the Rawalpindi road
(the continuation of 8th Ave), a 15-minute
Travel Agencies walk. A taxi from Aabpara to the museum
Before parting with your cash, it’s wise to costs about Rs 60.
get what you’ve been promised in writing, to
avoid potential misunderstandings later. Two SHAH FAISAL MOSQUE
reputable travel agencies: This eye-popping mosque (Map pp74-5; Faisal Ave),
Pakistan Tours Limited (PTL; Map p78; %9272017; nestled at the foot of the Margalla Hills, is
Flashman’s Hotel, The Mall, Rawalpindi) A subsidiary of one of Asia’s largest and reflects an eclectic
the PTDC. blend of ultramodern and traditional architec-
Travel Walji’s (Map pp74-5; %2870201; www.waljis tural design styles. Topped by sloping roofs (a
.com; 10 Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy, Aabpara, Islamabad) stark contrast to the traditional domes found
on most mosques), the main prayer hall and
SIGHTS courtyard are said to hold around 100,000
Islamabad people. Most of its cost (pegged at about
SHAKARPARIAN, PAKISTAN MONUMENT & US$120 million today) was a gift from King
LOK VIRSA MUSEUM Faisal of Saudi Arabia.
Known as Shakarparian, the urban wilderness Designed by a Turkish architect, Vedat
south of Islamabad has an arboretum with Dalokay, and built between 1976 and 1986,
trees planted by dozens of foreign heads of the mosque’s geometric design (modelled on a
state, as well as sculpted gardens, and pano- desert tent) and clean lines make the impressive
ramas of Islamabad and Rawalpindi from the scale hard to discern until you are up close. The
east lookout. Downhill to the east is the 20- four 88m minarets (an old urban myth is that
hectare Rose & Jasmine Garden, site of several the ever-paranoid CIA demanded to inspect
annual flower shows. them, fearing they were missiles in disguise!)
Shakarparian is also the site of the impres- tower over the prayer hall. Inside, the ceiling
sive reddish-brown granite Pakistan Monument soars to 40m and the air hums with muffled
(National Monument; Map pp74-5; h9am-10pm), con- recitations. The mausoleum of the late presi-
ceived to represent Pakistan’s diverse culture dent, Zia ul-Haq, is adjacent to the mosque.
and national unity. Flanked by well-tended Visitors are welcome, but non-Muslims are
gardens and shaped like an unfurling flower, requested to avoid prayer times and Fridays.
the four main ‘petals’ represent the prov- Leave your shoes at a counter before enter-
inces of Punjab, Sindh, Balochistan and the ing the courtyard and remember to dress
North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), conservatively (women should bring a head
with the three smaller ‘petals’ depicting scarf). To get here, jump off an intercity bus
other regions, including Kashmir. A museum, at 8th Ave or catch a taxi (around Rs 80 from
scheduled to open in 2008, will showcase the Blue Area).
post-independence memorabilia.
Lok Virsa Museum (National Institute of Folk & Traditional DAMAN-E-KOH & SAIDPUR VILLAGE
Heritage; Map pp74-5; %9201651; Garden Rd; admission A picnic spot and lookout in the Margalla Hills,
Rs 300; h9am-2pm & 3-7.30pm) houses a fascinating Daman-e-Koh (Map pp74–5) has panoramic
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 78 I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • C e n t r a l R a w a l p i n d i lonelyplanet.com

CENTRAL RAWALPINDI 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles

inibuses
To Pir Wadhai To Faizabad (3km);
(3km) aza a r Islamabad (8km)
fa B
S a ra

Buses/M
Ga

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M

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Intercity
di Sabzi
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Moti 12

B a zaar
Rajah Bazaar 18
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52 Iqbal Rd 54 Dhok
Committee Khab

d
Fowara 47 16 a Rd

u R
14 Chowk

a
55 Chowk Sh e
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iri 50
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Mosque

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29
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Train 53
Station
L eh To Islamabad
Ri International
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45 49
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M

23
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at

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25 ha
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Rd

Iftikhar Rd
To Islamabad
International
Azizbhati Rd

26 Airport (4km)
13
te
ki Rou
rt Suzu
Airpo
Tufail Rd
Kucheri 3
Cantonment Chowk To Lahore
(295km)
 ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
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INFORMATION Al-Hateem International Hotel.. 19 D3 ENTERTAINMENT

Cantonment General Hospital.... 1 A4 Flashman's Hotel.......................20 B5 Ciros Cinema............................ 38 A4
Citibank...................................... 2 C5 Green Palace Hotel...................21 D1 Gulistan Cinema....................... 39 D2
Foreigners' Registration Office... 3 D6 Hotel Akbar International..........22 C2
Main Post Office........................ 4 A5 Hotel Avanti..............................23 B4 TRANSPORT
Moneychangers.......................... 5 A5 Hotel Blue Sky.......................... 24 D2 British Airways........................(see 30)
National Bank............................. 6 A4 Hotel De Mall...........................25 B6 Bus to Taxila, Wah & Hasan
Old Book Bank........................... 7 A4 Hotel Holiday Crown Palace......26 B6 Abdal................................... 40 A4
Pak Telecom Central Telegraph & New Kamran Hotel & Intercity Buses & Minibuses....(see 53)
Telephone Office.................... 8 A5 Restaurant............................27 B4 Intercity Buses & Minibuses.......41 D1
Pakistan Tours Limited (PTL)...(see 20) Paradise Inn..............................28 B4 Minibus 1 & 6 to Islamabad...... 42 A4
Standard Chartered Bank............9 B5 Park Hotel................................ 29 D3 Minibus to Islamabad................43 B2
Tourism Development Corporation of Pearl Continental Hotel.............30 B6 Minibuses to Murree & Taxila...44 B3
Punjab (TDCP)...................... 10 A5 Seven Brothers Hotel & Pakistan Railways Commercial
Variety Books........................... 11 A4 Restaurant.............................31 B2 Department..........................45 A3
Web@ge Net Café.................... 12 D1 Pakistan Railways Reservation &
EATING Information Office................46 A3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Anwar Café.............................. 32 B4 Pakistan Railways Reservation &
Pakistan Army Museum............13 B6 Data Kabana............................. 33 A4 Information Office................47 D1
Pearl Continental Hotel...........(see 30) Jahangir Balti Murg...................34 B4 PIA........................................... 48 A4
Rajah Bazaar..............................14 B1 Kim Fah.................................... 35 A4 Suzukis to Airport..................... 49 D3
Larosh.....................................(see 24) Suzukis to Airport......................50 B2
SLEEPING Safilo Milkshakes & Juices.......(see 36) Suzukis to Airport......................51 B5
Al-Azam Hotel..........................15 B4 Scoop Ice Creams..................... 36 A4 Suzukis to Pir Wadhai................52 B1
Al-Baddar Hotel........................ 16 D1 Seven Brothers Hotel & Suzukis to Rajah Bazaar............ 53 D3
Al-Falah Hotel...........................17 B4 Restaurant..........................(see 31) Tonga Stand............................. 54 D1
Al-Farooq Hotel........................ 18 D1 Usmania Restaurant.................. 37 D2 Tonga Stand..............................55 B1

views over Islamabad and, on the rare clear Bus 120 leaves from Karachi Co (west of
day, south to the Salt Range. It’s a splendid Islamabad), via Sitara Market and Aabpara.
spot to get a sense of the city’s layout, with the
Shah Faisal Mosque a breathtaking sight. To MARGALLA HILLS NATIONAL PARK
get here, hop off intercity minibus 1 or 6 at 7th The Margalla Hills north of Islamabad are
Ave and catch a Suzuki at Khayaban-e-Iqbal, full of hiking trails that snake their way up
or walk up the steep path behind the small ridgetops and down through forested valleys.
Marghzar Zoo for about 30 minutes. Hiking Around Islamabad (Rs 150), available
Just east of the zoo, a road leads northeast in major bookshops, provides details of hikes
for 1km to Saidpur (Map pp74–5), a (for- ranging from short walks to three-day excur-
merly Hindu) village still famous for pottery. sions. It also provides a natural history back-
Scheduled to open in Saidpur in 2008 is a ground and handy hints for preparation. The
‘Model Village’ that will showcase Pakistani walks can be steep, and it’s usually hot and dry,
cultural traditions and handicrafts from various so take plenty of water and don’t walk alone.
regions, including Balochistan and Sindh.
Rawalpindi
NURPUR SHAHAN VILLAGE & BARI IMAM RAJAH BAZAAR
SHRINE This buzzing bazaar (Map p78; Fowara Chowk) is a ka-
About 4km northeast of the Diplomatic leidoscope of people and merchandise spread-
Enclave, Nurpur Shahan (Map pp74–5) village ing in every direction from chaotic Fowara
is a shrine to Shah Abdul Latif Kazmi. Also Chowk. You could spend hours exploring the
known as Bari Shah Latif or ‘Bari Imam’, colourful, crowded streets and buy anything
he was a 17th-century Sufi teacher and from batteries to a new set of teeth. Dotted
Islamabad’s unofficial patron saint. Thursday around are crumbling stone towers mark-
evening can be very festive, with pilgrims and ing old Hindu temples. Just beyond Rajah
trancelike qawwali (Islamic devotional sing- Bazaar on Railway Workshop Rd are rows of
ing). Foreigners are welcome but should al- truck workshops where you can sometimes see
ways dress conservatively. In the last week of trucks being decorated with the vibrant art
May the carnival-like urs (death-anniversary that typifies Pakistani road transport. To find
festival) of Bari Shah Latif is celebrated here. these trucks, take the Ganj Mandi Rd from
Minibus 3 heads to Nurpur Shahan from Fowara Chowk, and once you reach the tonga
Rajah Bazaar in Rawalpindi, via Aabpara. (two-wheeled horse or pony carriage) stand,
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 80 I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • A c t i v i t i e s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

turn left over the bridge. Continue along this FESTIVALS & EVENTS
road for about five minutes. In the last week of May, the urs of Bari Shah
Latif is celebrated at his shrine in the village
PAKISTAN ARMY MUSEUM of Nurpur Shahan (p79). The festival lasts
This armaments museum (Map p78; %56132608; several days as pilgrims sing and dance in
Iftikhar Rd; admission Rs 60; h9am-3pm Wed-Mon, 9am- an upbeat atmosphere; as the date changes
noon Tue) is next to the Army Library (behind the annually (according to the Islamic calendar)
Pearl Continental Hotel). It houses a handful consult the PTDC for details.
of well-kept galleries exhibiting a limited but The Rose & Jasmine Garden in Islamabad
interesting collection dating from prehistoric hosts several floral shows during the year,
times. Items include rifles, swords (including including the Rose Festival in March, the Spring
some Turkish ones), Stone Age hand-axes, a Flower Show in April, and the Chrysanthemum
former Russian missile system and, rather Show in November. Contact the PTDC for
oddly, an Australian harpoon. specific dates, as they vary each year.
AYUB NATIONAL PARK SLEEPING
Named after General Ayub Khan, the first It’s a good idea to book a room in advance
of Pakistan’s martial law administrators, as the most salubrious places can fill up fast.
this rather staid park (Map p78; Grand Trunk Rd) Most hotels have a noon checkout and many
south of the Cantonment has 900 hectares can arrange airport pick-ups with advance no-
of paths, gardens and lakes (with hire boats). tice. All rooms listed here have private bath-
To get here, take an airport-bound Suzuki rooms unless otherwise stated. Note that the
from Rawalpindi and get off at Kucheri showers in budget and midrange properties
Chowk, then take the right fork and travel may render a mere trickle, so double-check
for about 1km. before accepting the room.
Travellers have reported that some budget
ACTIVITIES and midrange lodgings in Rawalpindi have
Swimming refused accommodation to anyone who has
At the time of writing, only the Pearl Continental ‘Not Valid for Cantt Area’ stamped next to
Hotel (Map pp74-5; %5566011; The Mall, Rawalpindi; non- their visa – for further details see p378.
guests per day incl tax Rs 1000) allowed nonguests to
use its pool. Budget
In Islamabad you can stay cheaply at Sitara
Ten-Pin Bowling Market or Aabpara. Sitara Market has the
Zone Bowls (off Map pp74-5; %2251962; Megazone capital’s largest selection of economical hotels;
Complex, Fatima Jinnah Park, F-9, Islamabad; h10am-mid- to get here from Aabpara, take minibus 105 or
night) is a 10-lane, fully electronic bowling alley 120. In Rawalpindi, Saddar Bazaar has plenty
in a rather lifeless little shopping centre. The of cheap hotels and is convenient to the long-
cost for a game is Rs 140 (10am to 1pm), Rs distance bus and train stations.
190 (1pm to 5pm) or Rs 250 (5pm to mid- Establishments in this price bracket typi-
night). To get to Zone Bowls, enter the park cally have rooms that are small, sparsely
via the west entrance off 10th Ave. A taxi from furnished and in need of a facelift – expect
the Blue Area costs around Rs 60. functionality rather than luxury.
In the following listings, only the cheap-
TOURS est (without air-con) room tariffs have
The Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation been given.
(PTDC; Map pp74-5; % 9202766; Super Market, Aga
Khan Rd, F-6, Islamabad; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, closed ISLAMABAD
1-2pm Fri) can organise day tours of Taxila Tourist Campsite (Map pp74-5; no phone; Shahrah-e-
(p88) as well as other destinations – note Kashmir Rd; per person Rs 50) Opposite Aabpara, this
that tours may only run with minimum num- shady and secure foreigners-only camp site
bers, making it advisable to book at least a is popular with overlanders with their own
few days in advance. Prices are available on transport (car parking costs Rs 100). There’s
application. Many travel agencies also offer a kitchen but no cooking equipment, and
(tailor-made) tours. locked storage is available.
 ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
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Youth Hostel Islamabad (Map pp74-5; %2826899; and airy, although the singles are a bit box-
[email protected]; Garden Rd; dm HI & IYHF cardholders/ like. This sound budget choice also has a
annual members Rs 65/120, s/d Rs 700/900) This hos- decent restaurant.
tel has dozens of four-bed dorm rooms, Hotel Avanti (Map p78; %5580268, Adamjee Rd; s/d
communal toilets and cold showers – but Rs 250/450) The Avanti’s lacklustre rooms have
no cooking facilities, no restaurant and no certainly seen better days; however, renova-
camping. It has a rather institutional am- tions are planned so it may be more appealing
bience and the location is isolated. You by the time you read this.
must have youth hostel membership to stay New Kamran Hotel & Restaurant (Map p78;
(Rs 800 per year). %5566420; Kashmir Rd; s/d Rs 500/700) The com-
Simara Hotel (Map pp74-5; %2204555; Sitara Market, fortable, albeit threadbare, rooms in this
G-7; s/d Rs 400/600; a) This is the most popular older-style hotel have high ceilings and an
choice in Sitara. The carpeted rooms here are appealing sense of space. There’s a restaurant
quite small and uncharismatic, but comfort- on the premises.
able enough. Plainly furnished, they come
with a TV, little coffee tables and small tiled Rajah Bazaar, Committee Chowk &
bathroom. A plus point is the hotel’s quiet lo- Liaquat Chowk
cation, away from irksome traffic din. Simara Many cheap hotels around Rajah Bazaar are
is one of the most congenial places for solo reluctant to take foreigners; the following are
women travellers. some that do.
Hotel al-Hujurat (Map pp74-5; %2204403; Sitara Seven Brothers Hotel & Restaurant (Map p78;
Market, G-7; s/d Rs 500/700; a) This hotel scores %5551112; Liaquat Rd, Rajah Bazaar; s/d Rs 190/270)
points for its quiet location and although the The affable but noisy Seven Brothers Hotel
rooms (some with TV, most with squat toilet) has airy, spacious rooms that are good value
are rather dingy, they’re certainly inhabitable. when compared with others in the area.
Make sure you check a few rooms first as some Rooms are very plainly furnished but ade-
are superior to others. quately tidy and there’s a generous checkout
Hotel Friends Inn (Map pp74-5; %2272546; Block time of 4pm.
16, off Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy, Aabpara, G-6/1-4; s/d Al-Farooq Hotel (Map p78; %5960828; Dhok Khaba
Rs 700/1200; a) One of the best of Islamabad’s Rd, Committee Chowk; s/d Rs 230/400; a) The tired-
dreary budget bunch, this place is in an alley looking rooms are bare, with thinning sheets,
that links the bright lights of Khayaban- but passably clean and fair at this price.
e-Suhrawardy with the earthy curry restau- Al-Hateem International Hotel (Map p78 ;
rants in the street behind. The rooms are sim- %5502962; Murree Rd, Liaquat Chowk; s/d Rs 400/700;
ple and a little musty, but reasonably spacious a ) Although the singles are noticeably
and with a small TV. squeezy, the rooms here are in fair condition
New Islamabad Hotel (Map pp74-5; %2872250; 14 despite lacking character and being a tad on
I&T Centre, Aabpara Market, G-6; s/d Rs 1200/1400; a) One the stuffy side. The cleanliness is variable.
of the better budget choices, NI’s rooms are Park Hotel (Map p78; %5962397; Murree Rd, Liaquat
smallish but quite nicely kept, all with TV Chowk; s/d Rs 780/900; a) The Park is an older-
and many with floral-patterned carpet that style building with spacious, good-value
may bring back memories of grandma and rooms, each equipped with small tables and
grandpa’s place. There’s a restaurant on site chairs and many with TV. Some rooms are
and a clutch of inexpensive eateries nearby. a bit smoky and scruffy but are otherwise
comfortable. Meals are available.
RAWALPINDI
Saddar Bazaar Midrange
Al-Azam Hotel (Map p78; %5566404; Adamjee Rd; s/d Most midrange hotels have carpeted rooms,
Rs 180/280) A popular shoestring choice, Al- running hot water, cable TV and in-house
Azam has rudimentary rooms with confined restaurants and/or room service. The major-
bathrooms, but is not bad considering the ity of hotels in this category add 15% tax and
price. Inspect a few rooms first. occasionally also an 8% bed tax, therefore
Al-Falah Hotel (Map p78; %5580799; Adamjee adding 23% onto advertised room rates (taxes
Rd; s/d Rs 200/400) Al-Falah has competitively aren’t included in the following tariffs unless
priced rooms that are reasonably well kept otherwise stated).
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 82 I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • S l e e p i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

ISLAMABAD Poet (Map pp74-5; %2273476; [email protected]

Hotel Ornate (Map pp74-5; %2820702; hotelornate .pk; 31 St 11, F-6/3; s/d Rs 4200/4500; ai) Between
@hotmail.com; 5 Civic Centre, Melody Market, G-6; s/d Super Market and Kohsar Market.
Rs 1800/2200; a) The Ornate has pleasant rooms Residence (Map pp74-5; %2873218; rizullah26@hot
that are smallish but well maintained and mail.com; 2 St 30, F-6/1; s/d Rs 1800/2200; ai)
come with dressing tables, wardrobes, fridges,
TVs and tiled bathrooms. There’s a restaurant RAWALPINDI
on site or else you can pop over to the nearby Saddar Bazaar & Cantonment
food park in Melody Market. Paradise Inn (Map p78; %5512311; visitparadiseinn
Hotel Ambassador (Map pp74-5; %2824011; am @yahoo.com; 109 Adamjee Rd, Saddar Bazaar; s/d Rs 1000/1200;
[email protected]; Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy, ia) This reasonably well-kept property has
G-6/1; s/d incl tax Rs 3500/4500; ai) The good- several restaurants, a rooftop terrace and a
sized carpeted rooms are nicely furnished generous late checkout of 3pm. The rooms are
and come with small fridges, TVs, sofas and somewhat dowdy but admirably spacious and
tiled bathrooms. Rooms set around the central comfortable, all with TV and fridge.
garden are quieter than those facing the street Flashman’s Hotel (Map p78; %/fax 9272014; 17/22
and are worth booking ahead. There’s a res- The Mall, Saddar Bazaar; r Rs 3000; a) Recently re-
taurant and complimentary airport transfers furbished, unfussy Flashman’s still retains
(on request). On the downside, the air-con a rather sterile ambience but the rooms are
can be unreliable, especially during the hot comfy – many with separate living areas and
summer months when you need it most. all with TV, fridge and good bathroom.
Hotel Marina International (Map pp74-5; Hotel De Mall (Map p78; %5586100; fax 5586102;
%2271309; www.marina.com.pk; 109 Blue Area, Jinnah Azizbhati Rd, Cantonment; s/d incl breakfast Rs 4000/5000;
Ave; s/d Rs 4000/5000; ai) The TV-equipped a) A good choice, this is one of a clutch of
rooms are a bit dated and overpriced for what midrange hotels just off the Mall. It has clean,
you get, but are certainly comfortable enough well-furnished rooms, each with warm interi-
(you are essentially paying for the location). ors, writing tables, TV and fridge.
It’s worth trying to negotiate a discount. Hotel Holiday Crown Palace (Map p78; %5568068;
Envoy Continental Hotel (Map pp74-5; %2273971; fax 5583960; 232 Iftikhar Rd, Cantonment; ai) At
[email protected]; 111 Blue Area, Fazal-ul-Haq Rd; s/d the time of research this hotel was being
incl breakfast Rs 7000/8000; ai) A dependable renovated; it’s scheduled to reopen in early
choice for those wishing to stay in the Blue 2008, with doubles expected to cost around
Area, the Envoy’s rooms are a little cramped Rs 5000.
but clean and appealingly furnished. Each
room has a TV, fridge and writing desk. Committee Chowk & Liaquat Chowk
There’s an on-site restaurant. Al-Baddar Hotel (Map p78; %5502380; fax 5502330; Hotel
Good value for long-term stays, or simply Sq, Committee Chowk; s/d Rs 700/800; a) Although in
for anyone allergic to conventional hotels, are need of a minor revamp, Al-Baddar’s hum-
the many private guesthouses tucked away in drum rooms are good-sized and still rate better
the residential backstreets. They offer com- than many other places at this price.
fortable rooms and cable TV; breakfast and/or Green Palace Hotel (Map p78; %5953111; fax
airport pick-ups are usually included in the 5953000; Sher Pau Rd, Committee Chowk; s/d Rs 1000/1300;
tariff. Room rates are fixed but you should be a) This fairy-tale castle-esque building, com-
able to negotiate a discount depending on how plete with turrets and crenulated façade, is
busy the place is and how long you’re staying. seemingly designed for wedding parties – in-
The following is a reliable selection of what’s sist on a quiet room. The reasonably spacious
available (prices include tax): rooms are in fair condition, each with fridge
Chateau Royal (Map pp74-5; %2260845; chateaur@ and TV, but some are decidedly musty.
dsl.net.pk; 1 St 64, F-8/4; s/d Rs 2500/3000; ai) Hotel Blue Sky (Map p78; %5501436; fax 5501517;
Facing Faisal Ave. Sher Pau Rd, Committee Chowk; s/d Rs 1050/1250; a)
Jacaranda (Map pp74-5; %/fax 2651460; mail@ Probably the best of the so-so choices in this
jacaranda.com.pk; 17 College Rd, F-7/3; s/d area: clean, comfortable (if a little gaudily fur-
Rs 5100/5700; ai) nished), carpeted rooms with small dressing
Peninsula (Map pp74-5; %2653874; peninsula_5@ tables and TV, as well as the good Larosh
hotmail.com; H-14 St 47, F-7/1; ai) restaurant downstairs (see p85).
 ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
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Hotel Akbar International (Map p78; %5532001; swanky Marriott and Serena Hotels, but its
Liaquat Rd, Liaquat Chowk; s/d incl tax Rs 1250/1550; a) A rooms are still very upmarket and there are
popular choice in this locale, Akbar’s rooms several above-average restaurants on site.
are unexceptional but they’re comfortable
and fair for the price. All have small coffee EATING
tables, fridge and tiled bathroom. There’s also Islamabad
a restaurant. The capital city’s dining scene is no match to
that of Lahore or Karachi, but there are still
Top End some admirable choices, ranging from pasta
The capital has a limited number of five-star creations at plush restaurants in Islamabad, to
hotels, but what’s available is suitably sump- traditional biryanis dished up at Rawalpindi’s
tuous, all offering igloo-cold air-con and boisterous street eateries. Travellers craving
most with complimentary airport shuttles. familiar fast food will find a sprinkling of
It’s definitely worth asking for a discounted chains, such as KFC and Subway, predomi-
rate if the hotel isn’t full. Room rates are nantly around the sector markets and the
subject to additional taxes of up to 23% (not Blue Area.
included below). Mid- to upper-end restaurants impose
a tax of 15%, not included below unless
ISLAMABAD otherwise stated. In the following listings,
Holiday Inn (Map pp74-5; % 2827311; www telephone numbers have been provided
.holidayinnisbpk.com/Holiday_Inn.asp; Municipal Rd, Melody wherever reservations are advisable (espe-
Market, G-6; d Rs 15,000; ai) Although not in the cially on weekends).
same league as the Serena and Marriott, the
Holiday Inn is still impressive. It has well- RESTAURANTS
appointed rooms, professional service, a busi- Haleem Ghar (Map pp74-5; Golden Plaza, Jinnah Ave, Blue
ness centre and good restaurants. Area; mains Rs 40-190; h11.30am-midnight) This buzz-
Marriott Hotel (Map pp74-5; %2826121; www ing and unpretentious Pakistani restaurant
.marriott.com.pk; Aga Khan Rd, Shalimar 5; d US$265; cooks up food that’s pleasing to both the palate
ais) The five-star Marriott has all the and pocket. Possibilities include chicken tikka,
deluxe trappings you’d expect at this price: biryani or, for the more adventurous, brain
lavish rooms with internet connectivity, masala. Solo women and families can avail
plasma TVs and electronic safes, in addition themselves of the restaurant’s family section.
to an array of facilities that include a health Kabul Restaurant (Map pp74-5; College Rd, Jinnah
club, round-the-clock business centre and Market, F-7; mains Rs 70-190; hnoon-4pm & 7pm-mid-
fine restaurants, including popular Jason’s night) Carnivores can tuck into generous
Steakhouse (see p84). servings of succulent barbecued meat at this
o Serena Hotel (Map pp74-5; % 2874000; well-regarded Afghani restaurant. Salad, rice,
www.serenahotels.com; Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy Rd, G-5; yogurt and traditional-style bread beautifully
r Rs 30,000; ais) Set in beautifully land- accompany the tasty tikkas and kebabs.
scaped grounds, the sleek Serena has swish Usmania Restaurant (Map pp74-5; 13 Blue Area,
rooms, all immaculately decorated, with five- Jinnah Ave; mains Rs 110-595; h11am-11.30pm; a)
star goodies like flat-screen TVs, luxurious Part of a chain, this very popular dining
bathrooms and stuffed minibars. This elegant venue has a large, good-value Pakistani and
property incorporates traditional and con- Chinese menu. The mutton biryani and
temporary design styles that include oodles chicken jalfrezi get the thumbs up, as does
of marble-work, wooden panels and rich fab- the piping-hot naan.
rics. Amenities include terrific restaurants, a Pizzeria Pizza House (Map pp74-5; Jinnah Ave, Blue
health club, irresistible patisserie and modern Area; small/medium/large pizza from Rs 125/280/595;
business centre. hlunch & dinner) A pizza paradise, with pasta
dishes making a cameo appearance. There are
RAWALPINDI plenty of pizza toppings to choose from and
Pearl Continental Hotel (Map p78; %5566011; www a choice of crusts.
.pchotels.com; The Mall; s/d Rs 10,000/11,500; ais) Omar Khayam (Map pp74-5; %2825428; Jinnah
Looking a little frayed around the edges these Ave, Blue Area; mains Rs 150-360; hnoon-4pm & 7-11pm;
days, the PC lacks the charisma of Islamabad’s a) Recommendations at this very popular
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 84 I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • E a t i n g lonelyplanet.com

Iranian restaurant (bookings advisable) as ample other choices such as minestrone

include the chelo kebab kobideh (barbecue soup (Rs 120) and steak Tuscany (Rs 405).
mutton kebab) and the kohresht-e-bademjan For dessert there is a divine tiramisu (Rs 130)
(lamb and eggplant). as well as some glorious ice creams including
Wang Fu (Map pp74-5; 112 Blue Area; mains Rs 180-430; praline (Rs 125).
hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm; a) A reliable Chinese op- Dragon City (Map pp74-5; 108 West Blue Area, Jinnah
tion with a yum selection of dishes, from podgy Ave; mains Rs 300-645; hnoon-midnight; a) This
dumplings to squiggly noodles. There’s plenty welcoming Chinese restaurant has lots of
to choose from, including sesame prawns, commendable Cantonese and Sichuan dishes,
chicken with almonds, garlic fish, shrimp fried with favourites including the belly-warming
rice, spicy honey wings and Sichuan beef. soups, Mongolian chicken and garlic prawns.
American Steak House (Map pp74-5; 1st fl, Super The vegetarian selection is limited.
Market, F-6; mains Rs 195-510; hnoon-midnight; a) A Al-Maghreb (Map pp74-5; % 2874000; Serena
meat-lovers haven, with plenty of ‘Wild West Hotel, Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy Rd, G-5; mains Rs 350-900;
Steaks’ on offer: filet mignon, T-bone, green hnoon-3.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm; a) For a well-
pepper and Hawaiian, just to name a few. deserved splurge consider this atmospheric
There are also nonsteak options such as burg- and beautifully decorated restaurant, which
ers, tandoori fish, grilled prawn skewers and specialises in quality Arabian, Moroccan and
a small selection of pastas, pizzas, soups and Lebanese cuisine.
salads. The interior is chilled-out, with some Jason’s Steakhouse (Map pp74-5; % 2826121;
comfy booth-style seating, and the mocktails/ Marriott Hotel, Aga Khan Rd, Shalimar 5; mains Rs 400-
smoothies are guaranteed to quench the most 900; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm; a) If you’ve been
savage summer thirst. Beware, however, of flat hankering for steak, top-quality imported
whites masquerading as cappuccinos. Australian and US beef graces Jason’s tables.
Red Onion (Map pp74-5; Jinnah Ave, Blue Area; mains Diners are rarely disappointed.
Rs 200-675; hnoon-midnight; a) Just the spot to
cool your heels, this relaxing retreat has a QUICK EATS
Continental focus with a splash of Chinese Hot Spot (Map pp74-5; Gol Market, St 3, F-7/3; h11am-
and Pakistani dishes. There’s everything from 11pm; a) A top spot to satiate sugar cravings,
burgers and pizzas to mutton masala and this trendy little nook has mouthwatering
chicken with green olives. Cheese aficionados sweet treats that include homemade ice
should not miss the ‘Just Say Cheese’ pizza. cream (Rs 85 per scoop), gorgeous cakes
Zamana (Map pp74-5; Serena Hotel, Khayaban-e- (Rs 185 per slice), crepes and waffles. It also
Suhrawardy Rd, G-5; mains Rs 250-400; a) For light does fab smoothies and coffee.
bites or more substantial meals (including Rakaposhi (Map pp74-5; Serena Hotel, Khayaban-e-
buffets), the splendid Zamana offers a great se- Suhrawardy Rd, G-5; h9am-11pm; a) This wonder-
lection of Pakistani, Chinese and Continental ful patisserie bakes some of the best cakes in
fare. Open 24 hours. town that are well worth the calorie blowout.
KC Grill (Map pp74-5; %2872721; Jinnah Market, It also does a sterling job of ice cream.
F-7; mains Rs 280-410; hnoon-11pm; a) Hobnob Afghan Bakery (Map pp74-5; College Rd, Jinnah Market,
with Islamabad’s upper crust at this stylish F-7; h7am-10pm) This unpretentious little bak-
restaurant, which offers pleasant indoor and ery, right by Kabul Restaurant, sells a small
outdoor seating. Menu items include chicken selection of cookies, sweet pies (eg apricot)
filled with blue cheese, mushroom lasagne, and fresh bread rolls.
tempura prawns, salmon-and-cheese quiche, United Bakery (Map pp74-5; Super Market, F-6; h7am-
chicken teriyaki, fat steaks and an assortment 11.30pm; a) Bakes excellent cakes, cookies,
of chargrilled burgers. There’s also a selection savoury snacks and fresh bread (loaves and
of Pakistani dishes. rolls). A chocolate donut/éclair is Rs 15/12
Pappasalli’s Italian Restaurant (Map pp74-5; and sandwiches are Rs 60. Birthday cakes can
%2650552; Block 13-E Jinnah Market, F-7; mains Rs 295- be ordered here.
420; h11am-midnight; a) With an attractive in-
terior, delicious food and courteous service, Rawalpindi
Pappasalli’s is deservedly popular. There are RESTAURANTS
plenty of tempting pasta dishes, including a Seven Brothers Hotel & Restaurant (Map p78;
hearty spaghetti bolognaise (Rs 295), as well %5551112; Liaquat Rd, Rajah Bazaar; mains Rs 40-270;
 ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
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h11am-11pm) An acceptable option in Rajah the Marriott Hotel (Map pp74–5) on Aga
Bazaar, where the small menu has dependable Khan Rd in Islamabad or in the compound
Pakistani staples at good prices. of Flashman’s Hotel (Map p78) on the Mall
Anwar Café (Map p78; Adamjee Rd, Saddar Bazaar; in Rawalpindi.
mains Rs 55-130; h 6am-midnight) Opposite a In some of the restaurants and bars of
mosque, this bustling, basic street eatery has the Marriott, Serena and Pearl Continental
no English menu but the staff will help out. Hotels, guests can sign a form and buy liquor.
The chicken biryani, with chapatis and raita, Sometimes hotels will do this for nonguests.
is recommended.
Jahangir Balti Murg (Map p78; Kashmir Rd; mains ENTERTAINMENT
Rs 120-185; h11am-midnight) This no-frills street Ciros Cinema (Map p78; Saddar Bazaar, Rawalpindi; tick-
eatery has alfresco dining and is known ets Rs 50) Found off Haider Rd, Ciros screens
for its tasty meat-based dishes such as international films (consult newspapers for
chicken tikka. session times).
Usmania Restaurant (Map p78; Sher Pau Rd, Committee Gulistan Cinema (Map p78; Committee Chowk,
Chowk; mains Rs 120-450; h 9am-midnight; a ) Rawalpindi) One of Rawalpindi’s many cinemas,
Usmania is a welcome retreat from the tu- the Gulistan shows local films and a sprin-
multuous streets. The menu sports Pakistani kling of Hollywood blockbusters.
and Chinese fare with hot favourites including Rawalpindi Cricket Stadium (Map p72; Stadium Rd,
chicken masala (Rs 150) and mutton tikka Satellite Town) International cricket matches, in-
(Rs 210). cluding test matches, are played here. Consult
Larosh (Map p78; Hotel Blue Sky, Sher Pau Rd, Committee local newspapers or the PTDC (p77) for
Chowk; mains Rs 125-300; hnoon-midnight; a) This up-to-date details.
large, popular restaurant does reliable
Pakistani standards such as chicken jalfrezi SHOPPING
(Rs 175) and mutton pilau (Rs 95). Finish off In Islamabad’s sector shopping centres, the
with the cool mango ice cream (Rs 50). Blue Area and the arcades of top-end hotels,
Kim Fah (Map p78; The Mall; mains Rs 195-310; hnoon- tourist shops have pricey carpets, brasswork,
4pm & 6-11pm; a) Whether it’s chicken with jewellery, Kashmiri shawls, woodcarvings,
lime or a simple egg fried rice, this cosy antiques and assorted handicrafts. Especially
restaurant delights diners with delicious recommended are the numerous well-stocked
Chinese creations. handicraft stores in Super Market.
Cheap DVDs and CDs are found in music
QUICK EATS shops in virtually all of Islamabad’s shop-
Data Kabana (Map p78; Saddar Bazaar; h11am-11pm) ping centres and in the bazaars of Rawalpindi.
This earthy street eatery is the place to pig The quality is hit and miss; most cost around
out on inexpensive, freshly cooked kebabs. Rs 100 each.
It’s located off Haider Rd, just opposite the If you’re on the lookout for imported food-
Ciros Cinema. stuffs and toiletries, good places to begin in-
Scoop Ice Creams (Map p78; cnr Saddar & Haider Rds, clude Jinnah Market, Super Market or Kohsar
Saddar Bazaar; h8am-2pm) Sells various flavours Market in Islamabad.
of velvety ice cream including mango and Sunday Bazaar (Map pp74-5; G-6/4, Islamabad;
choc-chip (from Rs 30). h 7am-8pm Sun) On the block between
Safilo Milkshakes & Juices (Map p78; cnr Saddar & Municipal and Garden Rds in Islamabad’s
Haider Rds, Saddar Bazaar; h8am-2pm) The place to Aabpara, this lively bazaar springs to life most
come for lovely creamy milkshakes (Rs 65). Sundays as a huge handicrafts market with
carpets, leather, jewellery, clothing, Afghan
DRINKING curios and more.
Foreigners can obtain a long-term liquor If you prefer prowling for a bargain in
permit (one month costs Rs 600) from the the rambunctious, people-packed bazaars of
Excise & Tax Department (Map pp74-5; %9271903; Rawalpindi, you’ll find the following items in
Ayub Market, F-8, Islamabad). Bring photocopies some of Pindi’s prominent markets:
of your passport data pages and visa with Clothing & Tailors Rajah and Saddar Bazaars. Off-
entry stamps. You can then purchase alco- the-shelf shalwar kameez (traditional dresslike tunic and
hol from ‘shops’ hidden around the side of trouser combination) start at about Rs 400.
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 86 I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com

Fruit & Vegetables Go to the Sabzi Mandi (Vegetable Bus

Market) in Rajah Bazaar or the stalls at the western end of Islamabad doesn’t have a long-distance bus
Haider Rd, Saddar Bazaar. station, and although there are buses to
Jewellery & Brasswork Check out Sarafa Bazaar, Rajah Taxila and Peshawar, the best deals and the
Bazaar or Murree Rd near Ashgar Mall Rd. best buses are found in Rawalpindi. Long-
Pottery Explore Bara Bazaar (near Fowara Chowk), Rajah distance buses leave from and arrive at the
Bazaar, Faizabad Bazaar at the north end of Rawalpindi, or chaotic Pir Wadhai bus station (Map p72) or
Saidpur village (p77), north of Islamabad. near Pir Wadhai Chowk. Both are northwest
of Saddar Bazaar. To reach Pir Wadhai bus
GETTING THERE & AWAY station from Saddar, catch a passenger Suzuki
Air to Fowara Chowk in Rajah Bazaar and catch
Islamabad International Airport (%9280300) has another Suzuki or motorcycle rickshaw to the
domestic and international terminals. Airport bus station (Rs 10). The cheapest way to Pir
facilities include moneychangers and a res- Wadhai from Islamabad is by minibus 121, or
taurant, tourist information centre (%9280563), by bus with a change at Faizabad. Pir Wadhai
duty-free shop and post office. Check-in for Chowk is on the Grand Trunk Rd, and is
domestic flights is one hour prior to depar- Rs 10 by Suzuki from Saddar or Rs 200 by taxi
ture (three hours for international flights) and from Saddar/Islamabad.
many of the domestic carriers offer discounted For short-haul trips there are numerous
night-coach services between major centres. private companies (book through travel agen-
Aero Asia (Map pp74-5; %111515151; Block 12-D, SNC cies or the PTDC) running a variety of buses
Centre, Fazal-ul-Haq Rd, Blue Area, Islamabad) Flies only to and minibuses from Pir Wadhai bus station
Karachi (Rs 4850, one hour and 55 minutes). to Taxila (Rs 25, 40 minutes), Murree (Rs 100,
Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) Airport two hours), Mansehra (Rs 150, three hours),
(%9024000); Islamabad (Map pp74-5; %9209911; PIA Chakwal (Salt Range; Rs 60, 1½ hours),
Bldg, Blue Area; h8am-8pm); Rawalpindi (Map p78; Jhelum (for Rotas Fort; Rs 150, two hours)
%9272211; The Mall; h8am-8pm) Has domestic and Peshawar (Rs 100, 3½ hours).
services from Islamabad to Gilgit (Rs 3920, one hour and Reputable companies offering comfortable
10 minutes), Karachi (Rs 7380, one hour and 55 minutes), air-con buses on long-haul trips usually run
Lahore (Rs 4460, 50 minutes), Multan (Rs 4460, 2½ hours), to a timetable and take reservations. Skyways
Peshawar (Rs 2530, 45 minutes), Quetta (Rs 6880, one hour (Map p72; %4455242; Skyways Hotel, Murree Rd, Faizabad)
and 25 minutes), Skardu (Rs 4550, one hour) and Sukkur has buses leaving for Lahore (from Rs 170, 4½
(Rs 6400, two hours and 50 minutes). hours, half-hourly) from behind the hotel.
Shaheen Air International Airport (%9281001); The best long-haul service is that provided
Islamabad (Map pp74-5; %111808080; 52 Beverly Centre, by Daewoo (off Map p72; %111007008; Grand Trunk
Blue Area) Flies only to Karachi (Rs 8400, one hour and 55 Rd, Pir Wadhai Chowk, Rawalpindi), which has mod-
minutes). ern vehicles and a light meal included in the
fare. To Lahore, there are daily departures
INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES every 30 minutes from 5am to around 10pm;
Some of the many international airline offices normal class is Rs 470 and VIP (with larger
found in the capital include the following: seats) is Rs 550. The journey takes 4½ hours.
Air France (Map pp74-5; %2824096; Rehmat Plaza, Other destinations include Peshawar (Rs 210,
Blue Area, Islamabad) 2½ hours), with the first bus at 6am and
British Airways (Map pp74-5; %2871026; Serena others leaving every hour until late; Multan
Hotel, Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy Rd, G-5, Islamabad) (Rs 600, nine hours), from 8.30am and every
Emirates (Map pp74-5; %2279999; 1-C Muhammadi hour until late; and also Murree (minibus,
Plaza, Blue Area, Islamabad) Rs 120, 1¾ hours),with the first bus at 7am
Gulf Air (Map pp74-5; %2810041; Rehmat Plaza, Blue and every hour until 7pm.
Area, Islamabad)
Singapore Airlines (Map pp74-5; %2827907; Holiday ALONG THE KARAKORAM HIGHWAY (KKH)
Inn, Municipal Rd, Melody Market G-6, Islamabad) Northern Areas Transport Company (Natco; %9278441;
Thai Airways (Map pp74-5; %2272140; Holiday Inn, Pir Wadhai bus station) has several Gilgit-bound
Municipal Rd, Melody Market G-6, Islamabad) services a day starting at 7am, including the
Xinjiang Airways (Map pp74-5; %2273447; Saeed VIP service (Rs 750). There are 5pm and 7pm
Plaza, Blue Area, Islamabad) air-con deluxe buses (Rs 750), 2pm and 10pm
 ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
lonelyplanet.com I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 87

MAJOR TRAINS FROM RAWALPINDI

Destination Train Departure Duration Fare
Karachi Tezgam Express 8am 25hr Rs 720/3175/2245 for A/E/C
Awam Express 1pm 28hr Rs 720/1545 for A/C
Lahore Margalla Express 7am 4hr Rs 150/400 for A/D
Lahore Express 6pm 4hr Rs 150/400 for A/D
Multan Tezgam Express 8am 12hr Rs 330/1250/1120 for A/E/C
Peshawar Awam Express 2.20pm 4hr Rs 110/95/295 for A/C/E
Quetta Quetta Express 10.25am 36hr Rs 680/1165/3100 for A/C/E
Jaffer Express 6am 28hr Rs 815/2095 for A/C

Abbreviations:
A = Economy C = Air-conditioned lower E = Air-conditioned sleeper
B = First-class sleeper D = Air-conditioned parlour

deluxe buses (Rs 700) and a 4pm, 7pm and KFC) in Saddar Bazaar, Tipu Rd and Fowara
8pm coaster (Rs 700). Chowk in Rajah Bazaar. They charge about
Another popular northbound operator Rs 10 and take under half an hour in normal
from Pir Wadhai is Silk Route Transport Company traffic. To catch one from the airport, simply
(%5479375), which runs several buses north go out the gate and turn right and you’ll find
to Gilgit (Rs 700) and Hunza (Rs 800). The Suzukis and taxis. A taxi to/from Rawalpindi
trip to Gilgit takes between 14 and 17 hours. is around Rs 150, and it’s Rs 200 to/from
Be aware that departure times and fares may Islamabad. Expect to pay about Rs 100 on
vary with the season. Sit on the right for the top of this at night (after 9pm).
overall best views but perhaps not if you’re
subject to vertigo! Car
Avis has cars for hire in Islamabad through
Train Travel Walji’s (Mappp74-5; %2870201; www.waljis.com;
There’s a Pakistan Railways reservation & in- 10 Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy, Aabpara, Islamabad). A small
formation office (Map p78; %9270895, for inquiries 117; car (with driver) costs Rs 2300 per day (exclud-
h8am-11pm) 300m south of the train station in ing petrol); a 4WD is Rs 1000 per day plus Rs
Saddar Bazaar in Rawalpindi. For a conces- 14 per km; and a van (seating up to 12 people)
sion, go first to the Commercial Department costs Rs 1800 per day plus Rs 9 per km. Note
opposite the main station. There’s a reserva- that some companies may require a minimum
tion & information office (Map pp74-5; %9207474; Civic hire time of one week. You’ll usually need a
Centre, Melody Market, G-6; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Sat-Thu, credit card as a deposit.
9am-1pm & 2.30-5pm Fri) in Islamabad, as well as Another reputable car-hire company is
another office (Map p78; %5542221; Committee Chowk) Safder Tours (%5563153) in Islamabad. For
in Rawalpindi. something cheaper you’ll need to shop around
For long-distance rail services see the table, but be sure to check the small print carefully
above. For a listing of other options, grab a and ensure you get in writing what you’ve
copy of Pakistan Railways’ Time & Fare Table been promised (to avoid potential misunder-
(Rs 25) from the station or click on Pakistan standings later on).
Railways (%117; www.pakrail.com). Note that sev-
eral daily trains go to Peshawar, and some stop
in Taxila en route. It’s also worth noting that
Intercity Transport
Numbered minibuses ply regular routes be-
long-distance trains from the east may arrive
tween the twin cities. They are numerous,
late in Rawalpindi.
cheap and quick, but there doesn’t appear
to be a maximum carrying capacity; no mat-
GETTING AROUND ter how full they may be, there always seems
To/From the Airport to be room to squeeze in one more person.
Suzukis running to the airport from They frantically hustle customers, with blaring
Rawalpindi depart from Adamjee Rd (next to horns and eager conductors, weaving through
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 88 A R O U N D I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • M a r g a l l a Pa s s lonelyplanet.com

traffic with little care. Minibuses 1 and 6 from TAXILA

Haider Rd in Rawalpindi’s Saddar Bazaar go %051
via Islamabad’s Aabpara to Super Market, then One of South Asia’s richest archaeological
east to the Secretariat (Rs 8). Larger Varan sites, Taxila is a must-see trip from Islamabad,
buses run between the cities but they’re much particularly if you have an interest in
slower and less frequent. Buddhism and the art of Gandhara. The city
Taxis usually have ‘broken’ meters (or none excavations, most of which are found around
at all), so make sure you fix a price before you the museum, are open to the public, along
zoom away; Rawalpindi to Aabpara is Rs 150 with dozens of smaller sites over a 25-sq-
and to the Blue Area it’s Rs 200. km area.
Gandhara is the historical name for the
Intracity Transport Peshawar Plain, and Taxila has always been
In Islamabad, minibus 105 links Karachi one of Gandhara’s more important cities. In
Co (G-9), the Regional Passport Office, the 6th century BC, the Achaemenians made
Sitara Market, Melody Market and Aabpara. Takshasila (Taxila) the Gandharan capital,
Minibus 120 follows the same route and con- at a site now called Bhir Mound. In 326 BC
tinues to Bari Imam Shrine via the French Alexander the Great paused here en route
and Canadian embassies. Coasters run up to India. The Mauryan emperor Ashoka, a
and down the Blue Area along Fazal-ul- patron of Buddhism, built a university here,
Haq Rd. to which pilgrims and scholars came from all
In Rawalpindi, fixed-route passenger over Asia. In about 180 BC, Bactrian Greeks
Suzukis are inexpensive, such as Rs 5 from developed a ‘new’ Taxila, at the site called
Fowara Chowk to Saddar Bazaar. Suzukis Sirkap.
and motorcycle trishaws to Pir Wadhai from In the 1st century AD came the Kushans,
Fowara Chowk are Rs 10. Autorickshaws and building their own city at the Sirsukh site.
motorcycle trishaws are not much cheaper Until the 3rd century Taxila was the cul-
than a taxi and are a lot less comfortable. tured capital of an empire stretching across
Tongas can be painstakingly slow and are the subcontinent and into Central Asia. It
not necessarily a relaxing way to/from Rajah was the birthplace of a striking fusion of
Bazaar among the crazy road traffic. Greek and Indian art, and also the place
Autorickshaws are only found in from which Buddhism spread into China.
Rawalpindi (they’re not permitted to enter The city fell into obscurity after it was de-
Islamabad). As with taxis, always negoti- stroyed by White Huns in the 5th century.
ate a fare before jumping in; expect to pay The modern-era excavation of the site was
anywhere between Rs 25 and Rs 50 to travel led by Sir John Marshall between the years
within Rawalpindi. of 1913 and 1934.

Information
AROUND ISLAMABAD & PTDC information booth (%9314206; PTDC Motel;
RAWALPINDI h8am-6pm) Sells books related to the excavations.
There’s another small bookstall at the museum’s ticket
counter.
MARGALLA PASS
Around 27km west of Islamabad, the Grand Sights
Trunk Rd crosses the low-lying Margalla TAXILA MUSEUM
Pass. At the top is a large monument to John This rewarding museum (%9314270; admission
Nicholson, ‘Lion of Punjab’. Nicholson was Rs 200; h8am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm) is closed the
a British soldier-administrator who, at age first Monday of each month and closes early
25, led Pashtun tribesmen against the Sikhs (2pm) during Ramazan (Ramadan). It houses
here in 1848, and died a hero at the Siege of many of the significant finds from the Taxila
Delhi in 1857. Just across the pass is a small site, particularly from the Kushan era. These
segment of the original Kabul to Kolkata include exquisite Buddha sculptures with in-
(Calcutta) road, a forerunner of the Grand triguing Mediterranean faces, temple friezes,
Trunk Rd built by Sher Shah Suri in the silver and bronze artefacts and old coins.
16th century. Photography is prohibited.
 ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • Ta x i l a 89

been excavated reveals twisting streets and

TAXILA 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
tiny stone houses or shops.
A B 9

To Havelian
(58km)
Sirkap
The Bactrian Greeks began their Taxila, an
To Mohra
1
5
Moradu (2km); orderly walled city, in the 2nd century BC. It
Jaulian (3km)
was later adapted by Scythians and Parthians;
in fact, most of what you can see is Parthian.
Bicycle Shop
Along 500m of the wide main street are foun-
dations of houses, stupas and a small Buddhist
8 temple; at the south end were bigger, wealthier
homes. South of the town are Kunala Stupa
Hindu
Shrine 6 (named for Ashoka’s son) and the remains of
7 two Kushan-era monasteries.
10
2 1
11 4
2
Jandial
3
Bazaar
Train
Station
Near the road north of Sirkap are the ruins
of a classical Greek temple, a place with Ionic
columns in front and the base of what may
To Giri Fortress
14 (3km) have been a Zoroastrian (Parsi) tower in
To Wah Gardens (15km); the rear.
Hasan Abdal (16km);
Peshawar (135km)
INFORMATION Dharmarajika
13
PTDC Information Booth....................1 A2
3 Gr
an
Cantonment Within the huge Dharmarajika stupa, on a hill
d SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
12
Tr
un
kR Bazaar................................................2 A2
several kilometres east of the museum, is an
d Bhir Mound........................................3 A2 original, smaller stupa constructed by Ashoka.
Dharmarajika......................................4 B2
To Islamabad Jandial................................................5 B1
It’s said that it may have been built to house
(27km) Kunala Stupa & Monastery.................6 B2 ashes of the Buddha. Around it are the bases
Monastery..........................................7 B2
Sirkap.................................................8 B2
of statues and small votive stupas, and the re-
Sirsukh................................................9 B1 mains of a monastery complex. In one alcove
Taxila Museum................................10 A2
are the stone feet of what must have been an
SLEEPING immense Buddha statue. Most of what you
PTDC Motel.....................................(see 1)
4 Youth Hostel....................................11 A2 see belongs to the Kushan era.
TRANSPORT
Buses to Peshawar............................12 A3 Sirsukh
Buses to Rawalpindi..........................13 A3 Little of this Kushan city, started in the 1st
Tonga Stand....................................14 A3
century AD, has been excavated, and frankly
there isn’t much to see.
TAXILA EXCAVATIONS
Most of the main sites are within 2km of the Mohra Moradu
museum. There’s a large map of the site out- The isolated Mohra Moradu monastery, dat-
side the museum and each site is signposted ing from the 3rd to the 5th centuries, is in a
from the road and has an information board hollow about 5km northeast of the museum
at its entrance. By car you can see most of and 1km off the road. There is a small, com-
the sites in a short half-day. Walking and/or plete stupa in one monk’s cell, somewhat
taking a sedate tonga will keep you busy for resembling a wedding cake with its multi-
six or seven hours. Entrance to all the sites level base, spire and ‘umbrellas’. This is, in
costs Rs 200. Pay once and retain the ticket, fact, a copy of the original (the original is in
which you need to show at each site to gain the museum).
entry.
Jaulian
Bhir Mound This site is on a hill east of Mohra Moradu. The
This Achaemenian site, inhabited from the 6th stupas are gone but the courtyard and founda-
to 2nd centuries BC, is a mostly unexcavated tions are in good condition. In a security enclo-
mound 300m south of the museum. What has sure near the entrance are the bases of several
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 90 A R O U N D I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • W a h G a r d e n s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

5th-century votive stupas, ornamented with Some buses and Suzukis go on up the road
bas-relief Buddhas, elephants and nymphlike past Sirsukh, Mohra Moradu and the Jaulian
figures. Other stupa bases have equally vivid turn-off. Alternatively, you can hire tongas
carvings. East of the courtyard is a monastery (around Rs 200) and taxis (around Rs 600)
with dozens of closet-sized meditation cells. that hang around the museum to take you
The site caretaker may show you around for a to the sites.
little baksheesh (donation).
WAH GARDENS
TAXILA TOWN About 15km west of Taxila is the site of a
There are several derelict Hindu temples in Mughal camp developed by Emperor Akbar
the bazaar; one near the train station is quite (1556–1605) into a pleasure ground of shim-
grand. Stonework abounds around town, mering pools and pretty gardens. It’s gone to
with many small workshops turning out seed but the rows of ancient cypress and plane
thousands of grinding stones for kitchens trees, the empty canals and the run-down
and garish modern sculptures. pavilions are still stately. It doesn’t really jus-
tify a day trip on its own but it’s a possible
Sleeping & Eating addition to Taxila.
Most people visit Taxila as a day trip from Get on any bus going west on the Grand
Islamabad/Rawalpindi. For those who wish Trunk Rd and ask for Wah Gardens (not
to stay overnight, accommodation is avail- Wah). Fifteen minutes beyond Taxila (10
able, but it’s unremarkable. minutes past the Wah Cantonment turn-off),
Youth Hostel (%9314278; dm members/nonmembers a ‘Mughal Garden Wah’ sign marks a road on
Rs 140/280) Near the museum, this dorm-only the south side of the highway. The gardens are
hostel is basic but adequate for a night or a 10-minute walk down this road.
two and, importantly, the only budget ac-
commodation currently available. HASAN ABDAL
PTDC Motel (%9314205; s/d incl tax Rs 745/994; Pilgrims have been coming to Hasan Abdal
a) Also near the museum. The rooms lack since at least the 7th century, when it was
oomph but are comfortable enough and a Buddhist holy place. On a hill east of the
there’s a restaurant on the premises. village is a shrine to Baba Wali Kandahari, a
15th-century Sufi preacher. Sikhs still come
Getting There & Away from India and beyond to Panja Sahib, a shrine
You can reach Taxila from Rawalpindi’s Pir to Guru Nanak (Baba Wali’s contemporary),
Wadhai by frequent bus or minibus (Rs 25, 40 who was the founder of Sikhism. Most arrive
minutes). The train ride (Rs 15, 50 minutes) in mid-April for the Baisakhi Festival. Legend
is far more pleasant and the train station is has it Baba Wali rolled a boulder aimed at
within walking distance of the museum. You Guru Nanak, who stopped it with one hand.
can also catch a Suzuki or tonga passing from A rock with a handprint at Panja Sahib is said
the bazaar to the train station en route to the to be the very one. There are also abandoned
museum. Several trains pass through on the Hindu temples and several Mughal tombs in
way to/from Havelian or Peshawar. Train the old walled town.
times will vary from the schedule because of From a roundabout on the Grand Trunk
delays elsewhere along the line. In other words, Rd, walk 150m to a fork, bearing right past
expect delays. a post office and a playing field, 500m to an-
Most local transport from Taxila heads other fork. Panja Sahib is left and around the
to Rawalpindi – ask whether your bus is corner; the Mughal tombs are to the right.
going to Saddar, Rajah or Pir Wadhai. Some Beyond the playing field a path climbs for an
Saddar-bound wagons start from Taxila hour to Baba Wali’s shrine.
Bazaar; otherwise, take a minibus or tonga Hasan Abdal is around 20 minutes west of
south to the Grand Trunk Rd and pick up Taxila on any bus that travels the Grand Trunk
transport there. Rd; the bus ticket costs Rs 10 from Taxila.

Getting Around MURREE & THE GALIS

If it’s not too hot, you can walk around the Around 1½ hours northeast of Islamabad, on a
sites close to the museum and each other. maze of forested ridges, the British developed
 ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A R O U N D I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • M u r re e & t h e G a l i s 91

their summer retreats known as hill stations. south from the post office, is the place to stroll,
In summer the entire Punjab administration eat and shop.
moved up to Murree, and anyone who was
anyone had a villa at Nathiagali or one of the INFORMATION
other hamlets whose names mostly end in gali National Bank (Bank Rd; h9am-1pm & 2-4pm) At
(Hindko Punjabi for ‘pass’). the time of research this bank was changing major foreign
All still show the colonial imprint: neat currencies but not travellers cheques. It’s advisable to bring
bungalows and sprawling guesthouses, with along adequate rupees as backup, given that this is the
prim churches on the heights and raucous only bank in Murree that changes money.
bazaars down on the road. Nowadays, all TDCP Cart Rd (%3410729; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat sum-
summer and on winter weekends the villages mer, 9am-4pm Mon-Sat winter); The Mall (%3412450;
bulge with tourists, and the trees and gabled h8am-3pm Mon-Sat summer, 9am-4pm Mon-Sat winter)
architecture are gradually being engulfed by This is the best source of tourist information and it also sells
drab concrete boxes. The towns are now too a basic map of Murree (Rs 10). The office is located below the
developed for some tastes but the air is brac- Blue Pines Hotel. A small information centre is on the Mall.
ing and clear, and a welcome relief from the
scorching plains in summer. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
While Murree and a few other villages are Before setting off to explore the area, it’s a
in Punjab, many of the further Galis are actu- good idea to pick up a map from the TDCP,
ally just over the line in NWFP. Nevertheless, even though it’s not as detailed as it could be.
we include them because the Galis are geo- From Pindi Point, about 2km southwest of
graphically united and because nearly all their town, you can look out towards Punjab and
visitors come from Islamabad, Rawalpindi ride a chairlift (Rs 190) 3km down to Brewery Rd
and Punjab. and back. Kashmir Point (2260m), the highest
April is pleasant, May and June are hot, place in Murree, looks down a tributary of the
July and August are rainy but warm, and Jhelum River and out beyond the Pir Panjal
September is pleasant again. Summer sea- Range into Kashmir. To get here, take a mini-
son is May to September, peaking in July bus or walk the 3km along Bank Rd.
and August when accommodation prices From Bank Rd, opposite the Murree-Kahuta
spiral upwards due to the influx of tourists. Development Authority office, a walking trail
Snow falls from around December through descends for an hour through woods to the
to February but weekends can still be busy. In Kuldana to Jhikagali road. A branch goes left
winter, the Murree to Abbottabad road may to Kuldana Chowk. From Jhikagali another
be temporarily blocked by snow. forest trail climbs to Kashmir Point. You can
return on the trail or on any minibus to Sunny
Murree Bank (then catch a connection up Cart Rd to
%051 Murree) or Murree’s general bus stand.
Murree sits high above its surroundings, mak-
ing the views panoramic and the air fresh, SLEEPING
but there isn’t much to do apart from stroll Hotel tariffs fluctuate according to supply and
around or shop. A faded colonial aroma lin- demand; they’re higher on summer weekends,
gers, although many ugly concrete towers now lower on weekdays and during winter. Keep
dominate the town. Murree has gradually be- in mind that many places close for the winter
come more and more built-up and congested period. Prices noted here are approximate and
over recent years, which probably explains the hotels will basically charge whatever they can
dwindling number of foreign visitors. Still, get away with. If a hotel does not seem busy,
there are some pretty walks in the area. it’s worth trying to negotiate a better rate.
Following are a smattering of some of the
ORIENTATION better lodgings in Murree, but as new places
Climb up Cart Rd from the general bus stand. keep popping up, let us know if you stumble
Beyond the Blue Pines Hotel there’s a short across any newly opened gems.
cut up through a small bazaar to the Mall, the
town’s main street. British-era Murree rambled Budget
for over 4km along the ridgetop from Pindi Chambers (%3410135; r Rs 350) Although the sim-
Point to Kashmir Point. The Mall, running ple rooms are certainly nothing to write home
ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI 92 AROUND ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI •• Murree & the Galis Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

about, they aren’t bad at this price and some GETTING THERE & AWAY
have views over the Mall. The general bus stand is down on Cart Rd.
Chinnar Hotel (%3410244; The Mall; d from Rs 400) Minibuses shuttle between Murree and
This no-frills place has poky and nondescript Rawalpindi all day in summer (Rs 40, two
(but bearable) rooms, some with views over hours). Painfully slow buses go to Faizabad
the Mall. and Pir Wadhai for less but they’re not a prac-
Al-Nadeem (%3411879; Cart Rd; d from Rs 500) The tical option compared with the convenience
rooms are sparsely furnished and smallish, of the minibuses.
but this is still one of the better choices in In summer, Daewoo (%3412185; Cart Rd;
Murree’s mundane budget bunch. h8.30am-9.30pm), opposite the TDCP, runs
Numerous similarly priced budget options an air-con service between Murree and
include the following: Rawalpindi (Rs 120, two hours). Several
Grand Residence (%3411434; The Mall) buses a day depart the general bus stand for
Hotel Murree International (%3410173; Cart Rd) Abbottabad (Rs 70, five hours), via Nathiagali.
Marhaba Hotel (%3410185; The Mall) The best views are on the left side.
Tanveer Hotel (%3412082; Cart Rd)
Around Murree
Midrange PATRIATA
Hotel Dilkusha (%3410005; Imtiaz Shaheed Rd; d Rs 500; The TDCP has developed a somewhat kitsch
a) Spacious, comfortable rooms, the tranquil resort 20km southeast of Murree, with restau-
location and pleasant veranda overlooking the rants and a chairlift plus a cable car (Rs 200) from
small garden make this a relaxing midrange Gulehragali, 17km from Murree, to the top of
choice. the 2300m Patriata Peak. Many Suzuki-wallahs
Hotel Taj Mahal (%3411082; d Rs 1000; a) call the place ‘New Murree’ and charge Rs 30
Located off the Mall, this is one of the towers to get to Patriata from Murree’s general bus
that have changed the face of Murree. The stand.
TV-equipped rooms are good-sized and most
have nice views. BHURBAN
Lockwood Hotel (%3410112; Imtiaz Shaheed Rd; Offering less hype and more serenity than
d Rs 2000; a) Colonial Lockwood is a historic nearby Murree is charming Bhurban, a won-
hotel with some buildings dating from 1890. derful city escape. Apart from its picturesque
Although suitably comfortable, the rooms setting, Bhurban has a jolly good nine-hole golf
would benefit from a minor facelift. course and even an upmarket hotel, the Pearl
Brightlands Hotel (%3411170; Imtiaz Shaheed Rd; Continental (www.pchotels.com). There are Suzukis
d Rs 2000; a) One of the glowing highlights of to here from Murree’s general bus stand and
this old hotel are the spacious, airy rooms, all Jhikagali, a couple of kilometres northeast of
with TV – it’s just a shame they are somewhat Murree centre. Bhurban is 15km northeast of
neglected. Murree via Sunny Bank; a taxi from Murree
to Bhurban costs around Rs 280.
EATING
Most of Murree’s hotels have their own restau- The Galis – Murree to Nathiagali
rants, usually dishing up satiating Pakistani sta- Half an hour’s drive north of Murree is
ples, with midrange hotels also often offering Barian, with the biggest bazaar until you reach
a selection of Continental and Chinese dishes. Abbottabad. The Punjab–NWFP border is
The Mall has a number of good fast-food just south of here. Ten minutes on, just before
outlets, while Cart Rd has some cheap, hole- Khairagali, the road begins running along the
in-the-wall curry joints. Also lining the Mall west side of Ayubia National Park. An hour from
are chirpy, good-value restaurants offering al- Murree is Changlagali, at 2800m the highest
most identical Pakistani/Chinese/Continental of the Gali resorts. Ten minutes further, at
menus. The following restaurants (all on the Kuzagali, is the turning to Ayubia, named for
Mall) are especially popular: General Ayub Khan, Pakistan’s military ruler
Lintott’s (mains Rs 130-400) from 1958 to 1969. Along the road there are
Red Onion (mains Rs 195-595) large summer-resort hotels.
Sam’s Restaurant (mains Rs 140-450) At Ghora Dhaka, only five minutes’ drive off
Usmania Restaurant (mains Rs 110-595) the main road, there is a modest bazaar and
 © Lonely Planet Publications

ISLAMABAD & RAWALPINDI

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A R O U N D I S L A MA B A D & R A W A L P I N D I • • M u r re e & t h e G a l i s 93

several midrange hotels including PTDC’s SLEEPING & EATING

Ayubia Motel (%0992-359004; s/d Rs 1449/1932). The high season is from around 15 June to
Khanspur has several budget lodgings. There 15 August; the rates below are for the high
are minibuses direct to Ghora Dhaka from season although you may be able to bargain
Murree’s general bus stand, and some them down if the hotel isn’t full. Most hotels
Murree to Abbottabad buses detour out to have on-site restaurants.
Ghora Dhaka. Hotel Kamran International (%355231; d Rs 2500)
The rooms are clean and come with TV and
Nathiagali hot shower. Some rooms are more spacious
%0992 than others and some have better views.
At a lofty 2500m and thickly forested with There’s a good restaurant where a chicken
pine, walnut, oak and maple, Nathiagali (naat- jalfrezi will cost you Rs 260.
ya-ga-li) is the prettiest and most popular Hotel Elites (%355045; d Rs 3000) A popular
of the Galis. Dungagali, a small settlement, choice – and deservedly so – Hotel Elites is
is about an hour’s walk down the road or around 1km from the bazaar. It has taste-
the ridge. There’s a small ski resort at nearby fully furnished, TV-equipped rooms, some
Kalabagh. Some hotels may change major with magnificent views. There is a laudable
currencies but it’s highly advisable to change restaurant.
money in Islamabad beforehand. Other options down on the lower road are
not too desirable and are ridiculously over-
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES priced in summer. There are more upmarket
The best way to appreciate the stunning guesthouses and hotels up on the ridge, in-
natural beauty of this area is to hike into cluding the recommended Green Retreat Hotel
the hills. These are steep and the walks are (%355261; d incl tax Rs 4800; i) with spacious,
strenuous, but altitude is not an issue. For comfortable rooms, sprawling grounds and a
short walks, you can get by with runners restaurant. Other midrange options open in
(training shoes). summer include Hotel Holiday Resort (%352213;
Climb the ridge, a 10-minute walk up a link d Rs 1800), which has a decent restaurant but the
road from near the Skyways Hotel, to the old rooms are unremarkable at this price (some
wooden St Matthew’s Church. From here it with squat toilets); request a room with a view.
is three hours one way, northeast up 2980m Hotel Summer Retreat (%355201; fax 355360; d Rs
Miranjani Peak, with views across the Jhelum 5500) has clean and comfy rooms with TV,
River and Pir Panjal Range into Kashmir but is overpriced.
(and if it’s not too murky you may see Nanga
Parbat to the northeast). From the church, GETTING THERE & AWAY
follow signs towards the Governor’s House, Nathiagali is midway between Murree and
drop down from the road and cross a saddle Abbottabad (Rs 30, 1½ to two hours). A few
towards the peak. buses and minibuses go from Nathiagali
A similar climb is up 2800m Mukshpuri to Murree (Rs 30, 20 minutes) early in the
Peak behind Dungagali. It’s a day’s walk from morning; otherwise you must change at
Nathiagali to Ghora Dhaka (Ayubia). Ayubia (Rs 15, 20 minutes).

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
94

Punjab
Sprawled across the heart of Pakistan, the vibrant state of Punjab (Persian for ‘Five Waters’) is
named after the five rivers of the region – the Sutlej, Ravi, Beas, Jhelum and Chenab. Punjab is
Pakistan’s most verdant province and home to more than half of the nation’s population.

For the visitor Punjab is a treasure trove of experiences, and should be more than a stop
PUNJAB

on the road to or from India. Stepping off in Lahore you will encounter awesome Sufism
(Islamic mysticism) and qawwali (Islamic devotional singing), the Old City and the outlandish
border-closing ceremony. Beyond Lahore, there are sublime shrines and tombs in Multan
and Uch Sharif, ancient forts, the deserts of Cholistan and the Khewra salt mines.

And then, of course, there are the people. Punjabis are a life-loving lot with a long tradition
of warm hospitality that comes straight from the heart. Few travellers leave here without a
bundle of precious memories, an address book filled with new friends, and oodles of food
for thought.

HIGHLIGHTS
Soul tripping in Lahore to one of the most phenomenal
qawwali and Sufi expositions (p104) on the planet
Joining pumped-up patriots as they watch burly
Pakistani soldiers try to out-stomp, out-scowl and
out-salute their ‘rival’ Indian counterparts at the Khewra
fascinating closing-of-the-border ceremony
(p120) at Wagah
Lahore Wagah
Rambling through the tangle of twisting alley-
ways in Lahore’s Old City (p105) en route to the
historic Lahore Fort (p102) and the city’s stun-
ning 17th-century Badshahi Mosque (p103) Multan
Exploring the bevy of beautiful shrines and
tombs of Multan (p128) and Uch Sharif (p127) Uch Sharif

Taking a leisurely stroll back in time at the

impressive Lahore Museum (p107)
Travelling deep underground into the world’s
second-largest salt mine in Khewra (p138)

POPULATION: 79,429,701 AREA: 205,345 SQ KM

lonelyplanet.com PUNJAB •• History 95

History aster, but the resulting bloodshed was far

Traditional routes to the Indian subcontinent worse than anticipated. Massive exchanges
from Central Asia have all crossed the Punjab of population took place. Trains crammed
region. Strung along the old Mughal highway, with Muslims fleeing westward were inter-
named the Grand Trunk Rd (GT Rd) by the cepted and passengers were killed by Hindu
British, are a number of historically significant and Sikh mobs. Hindus and Sikhs rushing to
centres, including Lahore. This region has long the east suffered the same gruesome fate at
been a focus for great kingdoms. The Mughals the hands of Muslims. By the time the Punjab
even made Lahore their capital for some years chaos had run its course, more than 10 million
and played a significant part in making it the people had changed sides and even the most
cultural and intellectual centre of the region. conservative estimates calculate that 250,000
In 1947 Partition ripped through the heart people had been slaughtered. The true figure
of the original Indian Punjab, with the new may well be more than half a million.

PUNJAB
border slicing between Punjab’s two major
cities – Amritsar (in present-day India) and Climate
Lahore (in Pakistan). It was clear that Punjab The ideal time to visit is between November
contained all the ingredients for an epic dis- and March, when the weather is delightful

PUNJAB 0
0
100 km
60 miles
Mardan Muzaffarabad
AZAD JAMMU

H
Attock
KK
Peshawar Hasan & K A S H M I R Srinagar
Attock Fort
Abdal Murree trol
AFGHANISTAN Con
Kohat Taxila ISLAMABAD INDIA
Rawalpindi

f
Line o
ay

Mandra
torw

Khaur Mangla Dam

Bannu
Gr
Mo

Kalabagh
an

Dina
Mirpur
d

Talagang
Chakwal Rohtas Border
Fort Jhelum Crossing
Kallar Closed
Kahar Choa Saidan
Tr

Jammu
un

Ketas Shah
NORTH - WEST Mianwali Gujrat
k

FRONTIER Khewra
Khushab Wazirabad Sialkot
PROVINCE
er
Riv
Rd

Sargodha
River

M Gujranwala
oto
Dera Ismail Khan rw
ay
ab
en Sheikhupura
Jhelum

Ch Chiniot
LAHORE
Zhob
r

Amritsar
Rive

er

Wagah
Riv

Faisalabad
Jhang
Sharakpur
Changa Manga Sharif Border
Hwy

Wildlife Reserve Crossing

Kasur Closed
Indus

Nankana
Indus

vi

Firozpur
ge

Ra

BALOCHISTAN Shorkot
Harappa Okara
Ran

Harappa
Kot Village Hwy Sahiwal
Addu
r

l
ona
ve

To Loralai (5km);
Nati
Ri

Quetta (115km) Sarkhi Pakpattan

Rakhni Khanewal
r
Rive
Sarwar Multan
Fort Khar
tlej
Dera Vehari
Muzaffargarh
Munro Ghazi Su
Khan Bahawalnagar
Ravi

Choti

Panjnad Lodhran Chistian

n

Head
ima

Bahawalpur
Uch Lal Suhanra INDIA
Sule

Sharif National Park

Ahmadpur East
Fort Abbas
Mithankot Dera
Chachran Nawab Yazman Dingarh Fort
Sui Sahib
Ri ver Channan Pir

Khanpur Derawar
Fort
Rahim Yar
d us Khan Cholistan
In Bhong (Desert)
Mosque
Sukkur
SINDH Bikaner The external boundaries of Pakistan & India
on this map have not been authenticated
and may not be correct
 96 LAHORE •• History lonelyplanet.com

TRAVELLING SAFELY IN PUNJAB

Punjab is Pakistan’s most consistently stable province, attracting a constant stream of happy
travellers. When it comes to staying safe always exercise common sense and heed any current
warnings proffered by locals. As with elsewhere in the world, it’s wise to avoid walking alone in
isolated areas after dark – especially near the borders with Sindh and Balochistan. In the event
of there being domestic tensions during your stay, keep abreast of the situation – consult news-
papers and locals – and steer clear of any potential hot spots. Night-time curfews are a good
indicator of such areas. Demonstrations do take place (predominantly in the larger cities) and
although foreigners have not been injured, always keep in mind that politics is a volatile and
sometimes violent business in Pakistan, and for your own safety you’re advised to keep away
from demonstrations and large political gatherings.
PUNJAB

during the day (around 9°C to 26°C), ena- has some of the most defiantly serene archi-
bling you to do some serious stomping tecture and gardens on the subcontinent. It
around without working up too much of a takes more than just a couple of days to get
sweat. In December and January the nights to know this splendid city, so don’t regard it
can get surprisingly cold (a warm sleeping bag merely as a jumping-off point to nearby India.
can be a saviour for those staying in budget And whatever you do, make absolutely sure
hotels). October and March are still pleas- your stay in Lahore includes an afternoon on
ant enough, but the days can get quite warm. the outskirts in Wagah (p120) and at least one
Temperatures at other times of the year are Thursday – see the boxed text, p104.
hot, and at the height of summer often exceed
40°C. Humidity during the monsoon (around HISTORY
July to late September) can create a fatiguing, Lahore has been the capital of Punjab for most
steambath-like environment. of the last millennium. Lying on a strategic
trade route between the subcontinent and
Central Asia, but with little natural protection,
LAHORE its history is a repeating pattern of capture,
destruction and rebuilding. Its origins and
%042 / pop 8,896,000 most of its pre-Islamic history are shrouded in
Although Lahore may not be Pakistan’s capital legend. One story relates that it was founded
city, it wins hands down as its cultural, intel- by and named after Loh, son of Rama, hero
lectual and artistic hub. If history and archi- of the Hindu epic Ramayana. Another is that
tecture are your passion there’s an evocative the name comes from the ancient word loha
mix, from formidable Mughal monuments to (iron), which suggests that it may have been
faded legacies of the British Raj. Indeed, even strongly fortified.
a ramble around the Old City can unfold into The first reliable reference to Lahore is in
a mini-adventure. For those in search of spir- the writings of the Chinese traveller Xuan
itual sustenance, Lahore has qawwali (Islamic Zang, who passed through in AD 630. By
devotional singing) and Sufism (Islamic mys- the time Mahmud of Ghazni, its first Muslim
ticism) that will blow your mind. ruler, invaded in 1021, Lahore was under the
Pakistan is crazy about cricket and one way rule of a Brahmin king. Mahmud faced con-
of breaking the ice with Lahorites is to strike up siderable problems retaining the city, but he
a conversation about the game. Lahore – which, proved triumphant and it became a regional
incidentally, is home to former cricket great capital in 1036 and then the capital of the
turned politician Imran Khan – sometimes entire Ghaznavid empire until 1186.
serves as the venue for high-profile international For more than three centuries Lahore passed
matches. If there’s one on during your stay it’s through the hands of a succession of rival dy-
worth experiencing it as much for its wildly nasties and was under constant threat of attack
ecstatic spectators as for the game itself. by Mongols. Relative peace with the Mughals
Over the years Lahore has burgeoned into a came after Babur seized the city in 1524. Akbar,
bustling and increasingly polluted metropolis the third Mughal emperor, made his headquar-
with festering social undercurrents, but it also ters here from 1584 to 1598. The later Mughal
lonelyplanet.com LAHORE •• Orientation 97

emperors Jehangir and Shah Jahan also held essential detail. Superior maps can be found at
court here. Aurangzeb, the last great Mughal the major city bookshops (see below).
emperor, didn’t spend much time in Lahore and
the empire was already beginning to crumble INFORMATION
when he died in 1707. Lahore was then fought Bookshops
over by feuding Mughals and the Sikhs before Lahore has some fabulous bookshops,
eventually being captured in 1759 by an Afghan, with most stocking a selection of maps as
Ahmad Shah Durrani. The power shifted to well as international publications such as
the Sikhs, headed by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, Time, the Economist and the International
from 1799 to 1839. After Singh’s death in 1839 Herald Tribune.
the region plunged into a power vacuum, soon Classic (Map p100; 42 The Mall) A good collection,
filled by the British, who seized it in 1846. especially of magazines. International newspapers and
Since Partition, Lahore’s relative prosperity magazines ordered on request; these take up to 10 days
and stability have lured a proliferating (and to arrive.

PUNJAB
occasionally unmanageable) number of mi- Ferozson’s (Map p100; 60 The Mall) One of the biggest
grants. So far it has coped exceedingly better bookshops in Pakistan; an excellent range including novels,
with social and sectarian pressures than many glossy coffee-table books and a brilliant selection of maps
other parts of Pakistan. and magazines. Highly recommended.
Kim’s Bookshop (Map p100; Lahore Museum) Specifi-
ORIENTATION cally caters to tourists, which accounts for its commend-
One of Lahore’s major central streets is The able selection of novels and general-interest books about
Mall (renamed Shahrah-i-Quaid-i-Azam but Pakistan. It also sells good postcards (Rs 10 to Rs 20).
still commonly referred to as The Mall), cross- Mavra (Map p100; 60 The Mall) Stocks the usual selection
ing the city northwest to southeast. of books and magazines.
Central Lahore’s main crossroads, officially Vanguard Books (Map p100; 45 The Mall) You can get
nameless but often referred to as Charing maps and magazines here but the books are mainly of the
Cross, is at the intersection of The Mall and educational genre.
Fatima Jinnah Rd. North of here, the Old City
is a tangle of narrow streets and contains a Consulates
number of tourist attractions. Southeast Iranian Consulate (Map p98; %9283347-55; 55 Shad-
is the suburb of Gulberg, one of Lahore’s man-II, Jail Rd; hvisa deptartment 9am-5pm Mon-Thu)
smartest residential areas, with swish shops Will issue a visa if you have an invitation letter from an
and restaurants. Iranian citizen, resident in Iran. Without such a letter, you
Many of Lahore’s streets (primarily those need to apply in Islamabad, which will take a few days.
with Raj-era connotations) have been renamed
in recent years: two examples are Empress Rd, Cultural Centres
now named Shahrah-i-Bin Badis, and Queen’s British Council (Map p100; %111424424; www
Rd, renamed Fatima Jinnah Rd. Many locals .britishcouncil.org.pk; 65 Mozang Rd; h9.30am-5pm
still use the old names as a matter of habit. In Mon-Fri) Telephone, or click on its website for current
this chapter we’ve gone with the names most information about what this council does.
commonly used by Lahorites. The Gulberg
Main Blvd is sometimes shortened to Main Emergency
Gulberg or Main Blvd. If you’re in a sticky situation get to a phone
Allama Iqbal International Airport is about and dial the police emergency number (%15;
6km east of the city centre, while the main h24hr).
train station (Lahore City Railway Station)
is just a couple of kilometres north of The Foreigners’ Registration
Mall. For details on getting around Lahore, Foreigners’ Registration Office (FRO; Map p100;
see p119. %9202113; Capital City Police Headquarters Bldg,
Queen’s Rd) Only nationals of 16 countries are required to
Maps register – see p378.
Lahore’s Pakistan Tourism Development
Corporation (PTDC; see p101) office has give- Internet Access
away maps of Lahore and other destinations in The vast majority of internet outlets have closed
Pakistan, although some are outdated and lack in recent years due to minuscule margins and
 98 LAHORE lonelyplanet.com

LAHORE 0
0 1 mile
2 km

A B C D
INFORMATION Ejaz Galleries......................(see 19) EATING
Shahdara Bagh Department of Tourist Fortress Stadium................(see 30) Café Aylanto.......................18 C5
Grand

Railway Station Services.............................1 C4 Gymkhana Club....................7 C4 Café Zouk........................... 19 C4

1 DHL...................................(see 19) Gymkhana Golf Course.........8 C4 Carpe Diem.........................20 C5
Trunk

Iranian Consulate...................2 B4 Jehangir’s Tomb.....................9 A1 Dhaba.................................21 C5

15 9 Pace Internet Café.............(see 32) Model Town Club................10 B6 Freddy’s Café......................22 C5
Jehangir's PTDC.................................(see 16)
(GT)

Nairang Galleries.................11 C4 Gun Smoke........................(see 22)

12 Park
Sheikh Zaid Hospital...............3 B5 Nur Jahan's Tomb................12 A1 Iceberg..............................(see 30)
Rd

Shalimar Gardens................ 13 D2 Jammin' Java....................... 23 C5

To Hiran Minar (48km); SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Shrine of Baba Shah Jamal...14 B4 Mei Kong..........................(see 30)
Faisalabad (100km) Aitchison College...................4 C4 Tomb of Asif Khan...............15 A1 Pace Supermarket..............(see 32)
Akbar's Caravanserai...........(see 9) Pizzerio Uno Chicago Grill...24 C5
Alhamra Art Gallery...........(see 29) SLEEPING Shezan...............................(see 30)
Chitrkar Studio & Gallery.......5 C4 Bund Rd
Best Western Shalimar......... 16 C5 Tai Wah.............................. 25 C5
Prince Kamran Chughtai Museum.................6 B5 Hotel Elites..........................17 C5 Village Restaurant............... 26 C5
Baradari Park
PUNJAB

Hotel Sun Fort...................(see 16) Ziafat...................................27 C5

Qila
er

2 Lachhman
Riv

Badami Bagh
Singh Railway Station
Ra

Iqbal
vi

Park Amritsar
Rd

Baghbanpura (50km)
See Central Lahore Map (p100)
Circ 13
vi

Rd
ular Faiz Bagh Trunk
Ra

Rd Grand
Sultanpura Rd
Old City
Lahore City Rd
Railway Trunk
Grand

Shalimar Link Rd
Station
Circu Naulakha
d

lar
dR

Rd
all

Rd
Bun

Anarkali
er M

Gowal Mandi
3
ar

Work
Low

(Food Street)
lim

Th shops k Rd
e Rd l Ban
Cana
Sha

Krishan M
Nagar all Qila Shah Muslimpura
(Sh Faisal Al Railway
ah lam Station
rah a
-i-Q Iq
ua ba Mughalpura
d

id-
e R

Mozang lR Railway
i-A d Station
Lahore Zoo zam
Lak

)
ah Bagh-i-Jinnah Ghazi Rd
4
B

aw (Lawrence Gardens) Mian Mir

R d a lp u r Railway Saddar Bazaar
Gh Th Station
au e
Sarfaraz Rafiqi Rd

To Sherakot Bus Islamia su M

Terminals (0.5km); l azam all
Allama Iqbal Rd

Park Rd Mian Mir

Skyways (0.5km); (Ja Bridge
Sarwar Rd

2
Tufail Rd

New Khan Road il R 11

4 Runners (1km); Shadman d) 5
Niazi Express (1km) Colony 8
Fero

Samanabad 36 30
Zafar Ali Rd Gu 7
lbe
zp

Bun Ichhra 14 rg R
d Rd Mini Aziz Bhatti Rd
ur R

Sir d
1 Market Cantonment
Maratab Gulberg
d

Iqbal Town Railway Station

Ali Rd Sher Pao
31 Cantonment
19 Bridge
Gulberg Abid Majid Rd
Main 18 23 35
Market 25 17 Allama Iqbal
27 International
Rd

21 Airport
Al
q

24
Ha

lam
d

32 20
Rd
Blv

a
l
za

Gronanget Rd

29 33 16 22
Rd

Fa

MM Alam
in

Gulshan-i- 26
Iqb

Ma
a

Muslim
an

an

Iqbal
al R

Town New
l

Stadium Rd
lt

au

erg

Liberty
Mu

Garden 6 28
5
M

lb Market
d

3 Town 34 Gu P
Allama Punjab University ark R ENTERTAINMENT
Kalma d Hussain
Iqbal (New Campus) Chowk Chowk Cinema....................................(see 30)
Town National Hockey Stadium...........28 B5
t Rd
d

hda Qaddafi Stadium........................29 B5

kR

d
d

Wa
nR
iR

Sozo World Fortress Stadium...(see 30)

an

an

Upper Dari
lB

Tow
sm
na

Doab Canal
Fer
U
Ca

SHOPPING
ad

del

ozp

Walton
hm

CD & DVD Shops......................30 C4

De
Mo

Railway
ur R
rA

fe

a Station Gulberg Main Market................31 C4

bi

nc

h
aS
d

Hafeez Centre..........................(see 32)

Rd

lam
M Al Faisal Model Town Liberty Market.........................(see 16)
au Park Model
Rd

la
na Town Mini Market.............................(see 19)
10
on

Town Pace Shopping Complex............32 C5

alt

6
Sh a

TRANSPORT
ukat

Airblue.......................................33 C5
Ali R

Daewoo.....................................34 B5
Minibus Route 43
Emirates.....................................35 C5
d

To Kasur
Kot Lakhpat (65km) Gulf Air......................................36 C4
lonelyplanet.com LAHORE •• Information 99

numerous operators transforming them into moneychangers are open. Moneychangers are
pornography dens coming to the attention of bunched around Cooper Rd, some just north-
the mullahs (Muslim religious leaders) and the west of Holiday Inn, and also scattered along
law. Outside top-end hotels, broadband access The Mall, but the rates are not always as good
is rare, with most outlets relying on relatively as the banks’ rates, so it pays to check.
slow dial-up connections. Due to a fraudulent travellers-cheque
Pak Telecom Building (Map p100; Central Telegraph & racket some years back, many banks and
Telephone Office, 1 McLeod Rd; per hr Rs 20, to print/scan private moneychangers refuse to change
a page Rs 10/25; h9am-10pm Sat-Thu, 9am-1pm & cheques without presentation of the original
2-10pm Fri) A spacious, good-value place. purchase receipt.
Regale Internet Inn (Map p100; Surriaya Mansion, Lahore has a burgeoning number of
Regal Lane, 65 The Mall; per hr Rs 20, to print/scan a page 24-hour ATMs accepting Cirrus, Maestro,
Rs 10; %8am-midnight) Another good-value option, this MasterCard and Visa (but not always all
guesthouse welcomes nonguests. cards); these can be found around The Mall

PUNJAB
and at Gulberg, among other areas.
Laundry Some reliable places to change money
Most upmarket hotels have an in-house laun- include:
dry, while midrange and budget places usually American Express (Map p100; %111786111; 112 Rafi
use the dhobi (washerperson) system. Dhobis Mansion, The Mall; h9am-noon Mon-Thu, 9-11am Fri
should charge between Rs 40 and Rs 70 to & Sat) You can only change American Express travellers
wash and press a shirt or pair of trousers. cheques (no currency or other travellers-cheque brands)
here. The staff are efficient and courteous.
Libraries Citibank (Map p100; %111444444; Charing Cross;
Jinnah Library (Map p100; %920337; Bagh-i-Jinnah; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-12.30pm Fri, 9am-1.30pm
h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) Situated in a restful garden, this Sat) Changes major currencies and travellers cheques,
is a calm retreat for those seeking solitude. This beautiful charging a 2% commission on non-Citicorp cheques. Secure
building squeezes in more than 110,000 books and also 24-hour ATM.
has a newspaper room with Pakistani and foreign titles Wall Street Exchange (Map p100; %6307770; 15-17
(including Time and the International Herald Tribune). Naqi Arcade, The Mall; %9.30am-6pm Mon-Thu, 1-3pm
Fri) A reputable moneychanger with longer opening hours.
Media Western Union (Map p100;%111786111; c/o Ameri-
You can buy the daily English-language news- can Express, 112 Rafi Mansion, The Mall; h9am-1pm &
papers Dawn, the News, the Nation and the 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Arranges speedy money
Daily Times from most city bookshops and transfers – ready for collection an hour after
newsstands. Apart from local and interna- your sender makes the deposit. To collect funds, first present
tional news, they contain useful listings of your passport and the transfer code (ask your sender for
current cultural events, cinema screenings and this). There are other Western Union branches in Lahore.
other happenings of interest to the visitor.
Jinnah Library (above) has a range of local Post
and international newspapers and magazines DHL (Map p98; %111500000; Mini Market, Gulberg;
but they can only be read on-site. h9am-1pm & 2-10.30pm) A reliable place for fast air
freight worldwide.
Medical Services Main post office (GPO; Map p100; %9211318; The
The most reputable ambulance service is run Mall; h9am-1pm & 1.30-9pm Mon-Sat) Has all the
by Edhi (%115; h24hr). The charge is Rs 50 for usual postal services, including poste restante. Men sitting
the first 10km and Rs 5 for each additional outside will sew up parcels in cheap linen on the spot (Rs
kilometre (Rs 8 if ex-Lahore). 50 to Rs 150 depending on the parcel’s size).
These hospitals have good reputations:
Mayo Hospital (Map p100; %9211101; Gowal Mandi) Telephone
Sheikh Zaid Hospital (Map p98; %5865731; Canal For cheap local, interstate and international
Bank Rd) Adjacent to Punjab University (New Campus). telephone calls go to one of the city’s numer-
ous staffed street booths. Prepaid mobile SIM
Money cards are cheap and plentiful across Lahore –
Beyond standard business hours, only the air- you will need your passport to activate
port banks and a handful of authorised private it once purchased. Another good-value
 100 L A H O R E • • C e n t r a l L a h o re lonelyplanet.com

CENTRAL LAHORE 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles

Iqbal Park
Qila
Ra

See Lahore Fort (Shahi Quila) Map (p103) 14

Rd Lachhman
vi

45
Singh Th 69
23 e 4
M

Hall R

Rd
all 54
Circlular Rd (S h

n
ah 58

da
74 rah

Be
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25 uai 42

La
64 d-i- Chowk
Azadi 59 A zam

al
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Reg
Chowk 51
Lahore Masti Mosque

Law Rd
Gate 63

Rd le
Fort Kashmiri

mp

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17 39 15
Gate

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ce
55
18 Sheranwala
Taksali Gate Cir
cu
Gate la

rR
Moti 67 Langay Yakki

d
Heera Bazaar 66 Bazaar Gate
Mandi
PUNJAB

Gumti Faiz

Gr
Bazaar 28 Bagh

an
24

d
Delhi

Tr
un
Old City Gate (G

k
20 T)
Rd
pura
tan
Sul Rd
d
nda R Shah
a Sa Alam Akbari
Puran 26 Bhatti
Gate Bazaar Gate 65
Lahore City
Lahore Rd Mochi Railway
Mori Lohari 72 Station
Gate Gate Gate
d
36 Brand y R 35
lar Rd reth R lwa 48
50 Shah Circu d Rai
Alam
Urdu Gate
Hos p i t a

Alla
kali Rd

Bazaar 75
d

ma
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Punjab University
(Old Campus) Naulakha

Rd

Iqb
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A n ar

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Anarkali
d

al
10 Gowal Mandi
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Punjab Secretariat Ni
Mu

Shahrah-i-Bin B
Rd
Mc
sb
et son
hol
Dil

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Rd

43
Abd Punjab University 47
al i R (Old Campus) Bank 41 34
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29
Anarkali's Tomb & Anarkali
adis (Empress Rd)

Punjab Secretariat
21 Lukshmi
Chowk 40 52 Qila Shah 77
46 Faisal
60 T 11 (Laxami)
Rd Ma
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Chowk Hall Dura
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78
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Islamia Race Course

Park Park
22
lonelyplanet.com L A H O R E • • I n f o r m a t i o n 101

INFORMATION Sunehri Masjid.......................... 28 C2 Karim Buksh & Sons..................59 D1

American Express....................... 1 C5 Zamzama (Kim's Gun).............. 29 A4 Salt 'n' Pepper........................(see 53)
British Council.............................2 C5 Tourist Street............................ 60 A4
Citibank...................................... 3 C5 SLEEPING
Classic.........................................4 C1 Ambassador............................. 30 D5 ENTERTAINMENT
Excise & Taxation Department.... 5 A4 Amer Hotel............................... 31 A4 Gulistan Cinema....................... 61 C4
Ferozson's.................................. 6 C5 Avari........................................ 32 C5 Plaza Cinema............................ 62 C5
Foreigners' Registration Office.... 7 C5 Bakhtawar................................ 33 C4 Regal Cinema............................63 D1
Jinnah Library............................. 8 D5 Carlton Tower Hotel................. 34 D4
Kim's Bookshop......................(see 21) Clifton Hotel............................. 35 D3 SHOPPING
Main Post Office (GPO)..............9 B4 Garden Hotel............................36 B3 Flower Stall...............................64 D1
Mavra.......................................(see 6) Grand Hotel............................. 37 D5 Landa Bazaar............................ 65 D3
Mayo Hospital..........................10 B3 Holiday Inn............................... 38 C5 Langay Bazaar...........................66 B2
Pak Telecom Building (Central Hotel Fort View.........................39 B2 Moti Bazaar..............................67 B2
Telegraph & Telephone Hotel Koh-e-Noor..................... 40 C4 Panorama.................................68 D1
Office)..................................11 B4 Hotel Sanai.............................(see 52) Rafi Plaza..................................69 D1
Police Station............................ 12 C5 Hotel Shah Taj International..... 41 D3

PUNJAB
Tourism Development Corporation of Indus Hotel............................... 42 D1 TRANSPORT
Punjab (Main Office)............ 13 C5 Lahore Hotel............................. 43 C4 Air Canada.............................(see 70)
Vanguard Books....................... 14 C1 Leaders Inn Hotel..................... 44 C4 Air France...............................(see 78)
Wall Street Exchange................15 D1 Lords Hotel...............................45 C1 Ali Complex............................. 70 D4
Western Union.........................(see 1) National Hotel.......................... 46 C4 British Airways.......................... 71 C5
Orient Hotel............................. 47 C4 Bus & Minibus Stands............... 72 D3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Parkway................................... 48 D3 Cathay Pacific Airways............(see 70)
Alhamra Arts Centre................. 16 C5 Pearl Continental...................... 49 D6 Indian Airlines.........................(see 30)
Badshahi Mosque......................17 A1 Queen's Way Hotel..................50 B3 International Tours....................73 B5
Begum Shah Mosque................18 B2 Regale Internet Inn....................51 D1 KLM – Royal Dutch Airlines.....(see 78)
Cathedral Church of the United Hotel............................. 52 C4 Kenya Airways........................(see 70)
Resurrection..........................19 B4 Lufthansa Airlines...................(see 32)
Faqir Khana Museum................20 A2 EATING Main Bus Stand.........................74 B1
Lahore Museum....................... 21 A4 Bundu Khan..............................53 B4 Malaysian Airlines...................(see 76)
Lahore Polo Club...................... 22 D6 Chaman....................................54 B4 Minibus Stand.......................... 75 D3
Minar-i-Pakistan.......................23 A1 Cooco's Den & Café.................55 B2 PIA........................................... 76 C5
Mosque of Wazir Khan............. 24 C2 Cookers....................................56 B4 Railways Headquarters............. 77 D4
Samadhi of Maharaja Ranjit Singh & Dumpukht..............................(see 49) Shaheen Air International.......(see 70)
Gurdwara of Arjan Dev.........25 B1 Eat & Sip...................................57 C5 Singapore Airlines...................(see 70)
Shrine of Data Ganj Bakhsh Faluda Shop.............................. 58 D1 Thai Airways...........................(see 30)
Hajveri..................................26 A2 Fiesta......................................(see 54) Wapda House.......................... 78 C5
Summit Minar........................... 27 C5

option is Pak Telecom Building’s Central Lahore and other Pakistani destinations. It also sells some
Telegraph & Telephone Office (see p99 tourist-related books and videos.
for details), opposite the main post office. Tourism Development Corporation of Punjab
Midrange and top-end hotels usually crank (TDCP; Map p100; %9201189; http://tdcp.punjab.gov
up telephone charges. .pk, [email protected]; 4A Lawrence Rd; h8am-
3pm Mon-Sat) Deals with statewide tourism matters. It
Tourist Information has another (smaller) branch in the Old City, just inside
Department of Tourist Services (Government of Delhi Gate.
Pakistan, Ministry of Tourism; Map p98; %5757558;
24C Canal Park, Gulberg; h8am-1pm & 2-3pm Mon-Fri, Travel Agencies
8am-12.30pm Fri) If you experience any tourist-related Lahore has scores of agencies, especially on
problems anywhere in Punjab you can lodge a complaint at The Mall, at Wapda House and around Shimla
this office, which has the authority to investigate and take Hill. With this ever-multiplying number of
appropriate action. It also has a list of registered (reput- agencies (some with dubious reputations), it’s
able) hotels, travel agencies and tour operators. a good idea to select one that’s a member of
Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation an accredited association such as the Travel
(PTDC; Map p98; %5756737; www.tourism.gov.pk; 66- Agents Association of Pakistan (TAAP). Shop
D-1, Gulberg III; h9am-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon around to get the most competitive prices.
Fri) It’s hardly worth making the trip here as the staff’s You may also like to contact the Department
knowledge and enthusiasm is limited. However, the situa- of Tourist Services (see left), which main-
tion could well improve during the life of this book. On the tains an updated list of reliable, registered
plus side, this office can make reservations at PTDC hotels agencies. Many agencies have also become
throughout the country and it has a giveaway map of 24-hour operations.
 102 L A H O R E • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s lonelyplanet.com

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES The fort is entered on its western side

Scams through the colossal Alamgiri Gate, built by
Most travellers have nothing but praise for Aurangzeb in 1674 as a private entrance to
Lahorites. Indeed, it’s most likely that you’ll the royal quarters. It was large enough to allow
receive many invitations to chat over a hot several elephants carrying members of the
cuppa. Unfortunately there are some less hon- royal household to enter at one time. The
ourable souls who view travellers as an easy small Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque) was built by
way of earning a quick buck. To avoid a prickly Shah Jahan in 1644 for the private use of the
predicament make a mental note of the follow- ladies of the royal household and was restored
ing scams encountered by fellow travellers. to its original delicacy in 1904.
A handful of crooked cops continue to tar- The Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of Public Audience)
nish the reputation of Lahore’s police force. was built by Shah Jahan in 1631, with an upper
Travellers have been approached, generally balcony built by Akbar. It’s where the emperor
would make a daily public appearance, receive
PUNJAB

after dark, by policemen making all manner

of allegations to intimidate them into paying a official visitors and review parades.
bribe. Stay cool, stand your ground, and insist Khawabgarh-i-Jehangir (Jehangir’s Sleeping
that they take you to the Chief of City Police Quarters), a pavilion on the north side of his
and contact your embassy. quadrangle, now houses a small museum
By wary of deals offered by the cheap ho- of Mughal antiquities. One charming story
tels around the main train station, especially about Jehangir is that he had a chain sus-
on McLeod, Railway and Brandreth Rds. If a pended outside the fort, which anyone unable
hotel offers you a deal that’s too good to be to obtain justice through the usual channels
true, it’s probably precisely that. It may cost could pull. A bell would ring in his private
you a lot more in the long run if you end up chambers and the petition would receive his
having your gear stolen. personal attention.
If you do encounter problems, immediately Moving west, another graceful pavilion, the
report the hotel to the Department of Tourist Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience), was
Services (see p101). built by Shah Jahan for receiving guests.
The Shish Mahal (Palace of Mirrors), built by
SIGHTS Shah Jahan in 1631, was closed for renovation
Lahore Fort (Shahi Qila) at the time of research, but should be open
Built, damaged, demolished, rebuilt and re- by the time you read this. Decorated with
stored several times before being given its cur- glass mirrors set into the stucco interior, it
rent form by Emperor Akbar in 1566 (when was built for the empress and her court and
he made Lahore his capital), the Lahore Fort installed with screens to conceal them from
(Shahi Qila; Map p103; admission Rs 200; h7.30am-30min prying eyes. The walls were rebuilt in the Sikh
before sunset May-Oct, 8.30am-30min before sunset Oct-May) period, but the original marble tracery screens
is the star attraction of the Old City. Note that and pietra dura (inlay work) are in remarkable
the museums here may close an hour or so condition. The view from here over the rest of
before sunset. the fort and Badshahi Mosque is rewarding.
The fort was modified by Jehangir in 1618 Naulakha is the marble pavilion on the west
and later damaged by the Sikhs and the British, side of the quadrangle, lavishly decorated with
although it has now been partially restored. pietra dura – studded with tiny jewels in in-
Within it is a succession of stately palaces, tricate floral motifs. It was erected in 1631
halls and gardens built by Mughal emperors and its name, meaning nine lakh (900,000),
Akbar, Jehangir, Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb, refers either to the cost of building it or
comparable to and contemporary with the the number of semiprecious stones used in
other great Mughal forts at Delhi and Agra in its construction.
India. It’s believed that the site conceals some You can exit the fort from here, down the
of Lahore’s most ancient remains. Hathi Paer (Elephant Path) and through Shah
The fort has an appealing ‘abandoned’ Burj Gate; if you do, look behind to see the fine
atmosphere (unless it’s packed with visi- painted tilework of the outer wall.
tors) and although not as elaborate as most There are three small museums on-site
of India’s premier forts, it’s still a fabulous (photography prohibited): the Armoury Gallery
place to simply wander around. exhibits various arms including pistols,
lonelyplanet.com L A H O R E • • S i g h t s 103

LAHORE FORT (SHAHI QUILA) 0

0
200 m
0.1 miles

INFORMATION Hamman (Bathhouse)......................9 C3 Paien Bagh (Women's Gardens).....21 C2

Archaeological Offices.....................1 C3 Hathi Paer (Elephant Path)..............10 B3 Ruined Arzgah...............................22 C2
Royal Kitchens & Archaeology Hazuri Bagh Baradari......................11 B3 Shah Jahan's Quadrangle...............23 C3
Department..................................2 B3 Jehangir's Quadrangle...................12 C3 Shish Mahal....................................24 B2
Kala Burj (Black Tower)..................13 C2 Stables............................................25 B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Khawabgarh-i-Jehangir..................14 C3 Tomb of Allama Mohammed Iqbal..26 B3
Akbar's Court.................................. 3 D3 Khilwat Khana (Ladies' Court)........15 C3
Baths................................................4 C3 Lal Burj (Red Tower).......................16 C2 SLEEPING
Clerk's House (Maktab Khana).........5 C3 Moti Masjid...................................17 C3 Hotel Fort View..............................27 B4
Daulat Khana (Throne Room)...........6 C3 Musamman Burj Gate.....................18 B3
Diwan-i-Aam...................................7 C3 Museums.......................................19 C3 EATING
Diwan-i-Khas...................................8 C2 Naulakha........................................20 B2 Cooco's Den & Café.......................28 B4

Iqbal
Park Rd SP
rcular
SP Ci Cir

PUNJAB
cu
lar
Rd

Entrance

24
Samadhi of 20 22
Maharaja Shah 13 Ravi R
Ranjit Singh 21 iver (D
Burj 16 ry)
& Gurdwara Gate 8
of Arjan Dev 10 15 23
14
4
12

Toilet
9 3
Alamgiri 18 17 19
Gate 5
11
6 1
Badshahi 7
Mosque 2
26 Roshanai
Gate

25 Masti
Gate

27
Begum
28 Shah
Mosque

Old
City
Heera
Mandi

swords, daggers, spears and arrows; the Sikh Badshahi Mosque (Map p100; hsunrise-sunset), op-
Gallery predominantly houses rare oil paint- posite the main gateway to the Lahore Fort,
ings; and the Mughal Gallery includes among its is one of the world’s largest mosques. Replete
exhibits old manuscripts, calligraphy, coins with huge gateways, four tapering minarets of
and miniature paintings, as well as an ivory red sandstone, three vast marble domes and
miniature model of India’s Taj Mahal. an open courtyard said to hold up to 100,000
To better understand the fort’s history people, it was damaged by the British and later
you can hire a guide for Rs 150. In addition, restored. The rooms (admission Rs 5) above the en-
Lahore Fort, Pakistan’s Glorious Heritage, a trance gate are said to house hairs of the Prophet
colour booklet by Muhammad Ilyas Bhatti, Mohammed and other relics. The mosque looks
sells here for Rs 150. lovely when it’s illuminated in the evening.
An autorickshaw/taxi from The Mall to In 1991 the mosque grabbed international
Lahore Fort should cost about Rs 80/200. headlines when hardline mullahs protested
at the visit of the late Princess of Wales; her
Badshahi Mosque skirt was considered too short and the direc-
Completed in 1674 under Aurangzeb as the tor of the mosque was criticised for present-
Mughals’ final architectural fling, the sublime ing (the then) HRH, a non-Muslim, with a
 104 L A H O R E lonelyplanet.com

SOUL-STIRRING THURSDAYS Sarina Singh

For a mind-blowing peek into an extraordinary wedge of Pakistani culture that’s sure to ex-
hilarate even the most jaded traveller, ensure your stay in Lahore includes a Thursday. It’s
a day of cultural events that are best accessed through Malik of Regale Internet Inn (p111),
who has an excellent rapport with the venues involved (even women are allowed into these
traditionally male domains). If you’re not staying at the Inn, telephone Malik to make advance-
meeting arrangements. Malik (generously) charges absolutely zilch for his services – all you
pay for is your transport.
You’ll be visiting sacred sites so dress and act respectfully. Men shouldn’t wear shorts or
sleeveless tops. Women must cover their heads and reveal as little flesh as possible; a shalwar
kameez (traditional dresslike tunic and trouser combination) is recommended. Loud and intrusive
behaviour isn’t appreciated, and neither are displays of affection. Remove your shoes and be sure
PUNJAB

to pay the shoeminder Rs 3 to Rs 5 when you retrieve them (keep small change handy).

Catching the Qawwali Vibe

Thursdays kick off with some of the best qawwali (Islamic devotional singing) you’ll ever
hear. This takes place at the Shrine of Data Ganj Bakhsh Hajveri (see p106 ) from noon to
4pm, but Malik takes guests for around the last two hours (sitting cross-legged for longer
can be numbing).
Throughout the afternoon numerous qawwali groups perform. Many have travelled long dis-
tances, as playing at this shrine is deemed a great honour – the late Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan (see
the boxed text, p54) even performed here.
During performances donations are collected (a set rate of Rs 10 per qawwali group). Please
contribute this nominal amount at least once. Not only will it boost the musicians’ morale, it will
also register your gratitude for being given the prime sitting area (let alone access).
Audience members who are particularly impressed with a qawwali group may strew the mu-
sicians with money as they perform. Friends may shower rupees over each other – a token of
goodwill. Meanwhile, sweet-smelling rosewater is sprayed above the audience, adding to the
ever-growing ethereal ambience.
The last hour is reserved for the finest qawwali groups (definitely worth staying for). The
audience can really fire up when these musicians play, creating an atmosphere so electric it
leaves you tingling.
For more about qawwali, see p53.

Spinning Out With Sufis

Sufism (Islamic mysticism) is an ancient practice and Sufis (mystics) are on a quest for spiritual
emancipation.
On Thursday nights (9pm to midnight) Malik escorts guests to what he has fondly dubbed
‘Sufi Night’. This surreal phenomenon takes you to dizzy heights and is likely to be one of the
wildest trips you’ve ever been on. Taking place in two quadrangles of the Shrine of Baba Shah
Jamal (Map p98; Shadman Colony), Sufi Night attracts a crush of people. Coming alone can be down-
right daunting.
Hypnotic drumbeats coax Sufis into a frenzied state of intense bliss – swaying, whirling and
vigorously shaking their heads – as they relinquish themselves to a higher force. You’ll hear
some of Pakistan’s most esteemed dhol (traditional drum) players including Pappu Saeen and
the legendary brothers, Gonga and Mithu Saeen. The charismatic Saeen brothers demonstrate
remarkable synchronicity when playing together, especially considering the elder of the two,
Gonga, was born deaf. As a little boy, Gonga’s father taught his son rhythm by tapping beats onto
his back. Today, Gonga (who harnesses sound vibrations largely via his abdomen) and Mithu are
dhol supremos on the world arena. On Sufi Night Gonga intermittently spins at breakneck speed
while simultaneously drumming in sync with Mithu – truly jaw-dropping stuff.
Once the Sufis in the upper quadrangle call it quits you can always hang back with those
downstairs who spin on well beyond midnight.
lonelyplanet.com L A H O R E • • S i g h t s 105

copy of the Quran and allowing her into the Old City
sacred precincts while immodestly dressed. Old Lahore sprawls at the foot of the fort. It
The case went to court and ended with the comprises narrow, snaking alleys surrounded
litigant mullahs being ordered to stop wasting by a 9m-high wall with 13 gates, with sections
the judge’s time. closely resembling the way they would have
In the courtyard stands the Tomb of Allama been back in Mughal times. It’s a brilliant
Mohammed Iqbal, a modest memorial in red place in which to get lost (as you probably
sandstone to the philosopher-poet who will); a good way to relocate yourself is to go
in the 1930s first postulated the idea of an back to one of the main gates. Delhi Gate in
independent Pakistan. the east leads past the 17th-century Royal Baths
An autorickshaw/taxi from The Mall is (now a small TDCP office) to the Mosque
Rs 80/200. of Wazir Khan and Sunehri Masjid (Golden
Mosque). Bhatti Gate in the southwest leads
Samadhi of Maharaja Ranjit Singh &

PUNJAB
to the Faqir Khana Museum and eventually to
Gurdwara of Arjan Dev Heera Mandi, the dancing girls’ quarter and red-
Located outside the Lahore Fort, this light district. (Many dancing girls are essen-
samadhi (shrine; Map p100) commemorates tially prostitutes, but as prostitution is illegal
the founder of the short-lived Sikh empire, they have assumed the title of ‘dancing girls’.
Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The ashes of the ma- They argue that this falls in the domain of
haraja lie in a lotus-shaped urn inside a small ‘performing artists’, which is perfectly legal!)
brick pavilion. Masti Gate in the north leads to the Begum
In the same compound is the Gurdwara of Shah Mosque (1614), named after Maryam
Arjan Dev, Sikhism’s fifth guru. Created by Zamani, the mother of Emperor Jehangir. If
Maharaja Ranjit Singh, this is Lahore’s largest you’re keen to visit Heera Mandi it’s advisable
gurdwara (Sikh temple) and is an important to go in a group as it can sometimes be a bit
pilgrimage site for Sikhs. Non-Sikhs are not seedy after dark.
permitted entry to certain areas. The Old City has been funded for restora-
Men and women must cover their heads tion of dilapidated areas under the Lahore
and remove their shoes. Tobacco is strictly Walled City Project, which will take place
prohibited. over the coming years. The following sights
An autorickshaw/taxi from The Mall costs are located on Map p100.
around Rs 80/200.
SUNEHRI MASJID (GOLDEN MOSQUE)
Minar-i-Pakistan & Iqbal Park The small Sunehri Masjid (Golden Mosque),
Soaring into the sky in Iqbal Park, the 60m- in the centre of the Old City, was built in 1753
high Minar-i-Pakistan was built in 1960. It by Bikhari Khan and is famous for its three
commemorates the signing of the Pakistan gilded domes and gold-plated minarets, still
Resolution on 23 March 1940 by the All India shining as brightly as ever.
Muslim League, which paved the way for the An autorickshaw/taxi from The Mall to
founding of Pakistan. Sunehri Masjid costs Rs 60/150.
Marble tablets around the base record the
text of the resolution, as well as the 99 at- MOSQUE OF WAZIR KHAN
tributes of Allah, passages from the Quran At the eastern end of the Old City, 250m
and works of Allama Iqbal and Mohammed inside Delhi Gate, is this deteriorating but
Ali Jinnah, the two most important figures of beautifully tiled mosque. It was founded in
the Pakistani independence movement. the 17th century by Sheikh Ilm-ud-Din Ansari
A lift and stairs once took visitors to the (also known as Wazir Khan), the royal phy-
top of the Minar for the spectacular views sician and later governor of Punjab during
of Lahore Fort, however, they were recently the reign of Shah Jahan. This was once an
closed due to the high rate of suicides. In the important centre for training Islamic callig-
late afternoon, Iqbal Park attracts a throng of raphers. The small, crumbling mosque has
people who gather here for a stroll or to play an evocative, deserted feel to it and is worth
cricket, fly kites or just hang out. visiting for this reason alone.
An autorickshaw/taxi from The Mall to An autorickshaw/taxi from The Mall to this
Iqbal Park costs about Rs 80/200. mosque should cost Rs 60/150.
 106 L A H O R E • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com

FAQIR KHANA MUSEUM Born Abdul Hasan Ali, he was known as

About 500m inside Bhatti Gate on the right- Data Ganj Bakhsh (the Bestower of Treasures)
hand side, this small mansion houses treas- because of his generosity towards the less
ures of the Faqir family, who have lived in privileged. A hospital and several institutions
Lahore since the 18th century. It is said to be for the needy have been added near the shrine
the largest private collection in south Asia, over the years.
with over 13,000 pieces of art. Hordes of devotees gather here on Thursday
The head of the Lahore branch of the fam- afternoons to listen to the excellent qawwali
ily was a fakir (Muslim ascetic) from Bukhara (see boxed text, p104).
whose three sons achieved prominence in the The urs (death anniversary) of Data Ganj
court of Sikh ruler Ranjit Singh, despite being Bakhsh Hajveri is held at this shrine on 18–20
Muslims. One son was royal physician, another Safar (March/April) and is attended by tens (if
a foreign minister and the third a finance min- not hundreds) of thousands of pilgrims.
ister. Largely as a result of their ties with Ranjit
PUNJAB

Singh, they amassed many valuable antiquities, Anarkali

as direct or hand-me-down gifts. Later genera- Leading south from Bhatti Gate, Anarkali
tions preserved these pieces and collected more (Pomegranate Blossom) is named after the
objets d’art during travels abroad. royal-court dancing girl who, according to
Items include relics of the Prophet legend, Akbar ordered buried alive in a wall
Mohammed (on public display for one day as punishment for her alleged advances to-
during the Islamic month of Muharram), wards his son Jehangir. Built in 1615, her
early Qurans and other illuminated manu- tomb was at one time used as a house by
scripts, miniature paintings, porcelain pieces, Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s son and later as
old coins, Islamic artwork, carvings, clothes a church, but it’s now part of the Punjab
worn by the Mughal emperors, a small ar- Secretariat compound. There’s no longer
moury of Sikh weapons and carpets from the much to see inside. Nowadays, the name
royal courts. Anarkali is commemorated by the thriv-
As this is a private collection, you must ing bazaar in the same district as the tomb
phone the curator (%7660645) in advance. with a variety of shops selling clothes (lots
Admission is free, photography is not per- of shalwar kameez; a traditional dresslike
mitted and it’s appreciated if you take off tunic and trouser combination), shoes, jew-
your shoes and refrain from touching any ellery and leatherware, and several second-
of the items. hand bookstalls. With plenty of old-world
charm and character, it’s perfect for an
SHRINE OF DATA GANJ BAKHSH HAJVERI unhurried wander.
Author of a famous book on mysticism, the An autorickshaw/taxi from The Mall to
11th-century Data Ganj Bakhsh, originally Anarkali costs around Rs 50/100.
from Ghazni in Afghanistan, was one of the
most successful Sufi preachers on the subcon- The Mall (Shahrah-i-Quaid-i-Azam)
tinent and is today one of the most notable The Mall is a central area that you’ll prob-
Sufi saints in Pakistan. The shrine is located ably keep returning to. First laid out in 1851
west of Bhatti Gate, just outside the Old City. under the supervision of Lieutenant Colonel

BANISHING BAD BUGS

Lahore’s air pollution may insidiously inflict you with flu-like symptoms such as a raw throat
and stuffy nose – a real party pooper. One quick fix that gets the thumbs up from locals and
travellers alike is a natural herbal product called joshanda (Rs 5 per sachet). You simply dissolve
the contents in a cup of hot water or tea and sip away (the taste is negligible). Make sure you
first read the ingredients (including an array of herbs), just in case you’re allergic to any of them.
Joshanda is available at most general stores and pharmacies but if you can’t find it, grandma’s
sure-fire remedy of gargling salt dissolved in warm water may work wonders.
Those who suffer serious respiratory ailments are advised to bring appropriate medication in
case it can’t easily be found in Pakistan.
lonelyplanet.com L A H O R E • • S i g h t s 107

Napier, it has a collection of grand buildings period, articles from Moenjodaro, Harappa
in the Mughal-Gothic style characteristic of and other Indus Valley civilisation sites and
the British Raj. Most are now institutes or its magnificent collection of coins from the
government offices. Achaemenian period onwards.
At its western end is the large cannon Kim’s Bookshop (in the museum compound)
called Zamzama, the Lahore Museum and stocks an interesting collection of novels and
the old campus of Punjab University. On general-interest books (see p97).
the Upper (eastern) Mall is the pleasant
Bagh-i-Jinnah and the Lahore Zoo. To give ZAMZAMA (KIM’S GUN)
you an idea of costs, an autorickshaw/taxi
from the Upper Mall to Delhi Gate is about He sat in defiance of municipal orders,
Rs 60/150; to the main train station it’s Rs astride the gun Zam-Zammah on her
70/150; to Bhatti Gate around Rs 70/150; brick platform opposite the old Ajaib-
and to Sherakot it’s Rs 120/300. Many trav- Gher – The Wonder House, as the Na-

PUNJAB
ellers stay on or near The Mall – for useful tives call the Lahore Museum. Who
local bus details see p119. hold Zam-Zammah hold the Punjab;
for the great green-bronze piece is
CHURCHES always first of the conqueror’s loot.
The (Anglican) Cathedral Church of the Resur- Rudyard Kipling, Kim
rection (Map p100; The Mall) has an English-language
Communion service at 8am and 5pm on This mighty cannon, made famous at the
Sunday. There are several other churches start of Rudyard Kipling’s classic 1901 novel,
in Lahore. was originally named Zamzama, meaning
‘Lion’s Roar’, and sits on the medium strip
SUMMIT MINAR in front of the Lahore Museum. It was used
In a park at Charing Cross, commemorat- in various battles by the Afghan Durranis
ing the Islamic Summit Conference held and then the Sikhs, before being brought
in Lahore in 1974, is Summit Minar (Map p100; to Lahore by Maharaja Ranjit Singh as a
admission free; h10am-1pm & 4-8pm Sat-Thu summer, symbol of his conquests. Kipling’s father
10am-1pm & 3-6pm Sat-Thu winter). Underneath the was the first curator of the Lahore Museum.
minar – a tall, slender marble column – is a Kipling himself worked at the now defunct
vaulted cellar housing gifts from the coun- Civil & Military Gazette in Lahore from 1882
tries that attended the conference. Twenty to 1887.
stone slabs at the base of the pillar bear in-
scriptions of the word Allah. Outside is a BAGH-I-JINNAH (LAWRENCE GARDENS)
pavilion with a glass case housing a Quran A central place to slow the pace and chat to
inscribed in gold leaf. locals is pleasant Bagh-i-Jinnah (Map p100; The Mall;
admission free; h8am-10pm). There’s an open-air
LAHORE MUSEUM theatre that has frequent nightly performances
Try to set aside a couple of hours to make the (in Urdu or Punjabi) and the attractive British
most of a visit to the superb Lahore Museum (Map building in the centre of the park now houses
p100; The Mall; admission Rs 100, plus camera/video/camera Jinnah Library (see p99).
stand Rs 10/50/15; h9am-5pm Sun-Thu, closed first Mon of
each month), which has exhibits spanning the re- LAHORE ZOO
corded history of the subcontinent. Part of the Near Bagh-i-Jinnah, behind a large gateway
collection was removed to India after Partition adorned with a colourful animal mural, Lahore
but this is still the biggest and perhaps most Zoo (Map p100; admission Rs 10; h8am-5pm) is one of
impressive museum in Pakistan. the oldest zoos on the subcontinent. It was
The museum has almost 20 galleries with founded in 1872 and includes a variety of bird
items dating from the Stone Age to the 20th species along with lions, elephants, monkeys,
century. It’s particularly famous for its display leopards, giraffes, tigers and more. The gar-
of Gandharan sculpture (especially the haunt- dens themselves are of almost as much interest
ing Fasting Buddha), manuscripts, Qurans, as the animals and contain a wide range of
its sensational array of miniature paintings, plants and trees, some believed to date back
carpets, various pieces of art from the Islamic to the 16th century.
 108 L A H O R E • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com

AITCHISON COLLEGE of Allah in Arabic calligraphy. These are

At the eastern end of The Mall, Aitchison inside a vaulted chamber, decorated with
College (Map p98), the ‘Eton of Pakistan’, is the marble tracery and cornered with four min-
most prestigious school in the country. Run arets. Outside is a sunken passageway with
on the lines of an English public school, the one tunnel supposedly leading to Shalimar
Mughal-Gothic–style building is surrounded Gardens and another to Hiran Minar (see
by manicured sporting fields. p120) – both tunnels are now bricked up.
The entrance to the tomb courtyard lies
Race Course Park on the right-hand side of Akbar’s Caravanserai,
Southeast of Bagh-i-Jinnah on Race Course a 180-room resting place for pilgrims, travel-
Rd, this cool, green park (Map p100) is the lers and their animals, built by Shah Jahan at
place to catch a polo game (see p116). It’s also the same time as Jehangir’s Tomb. The west-
good for a stroll or jog – there’s less human ern gateway leads to the Tomb of Asif Khan.
traffic on weekdays (late afternoons can get The brother-in-law of Jehangir and father to
PUNJAB

busy, though). Mumtaz Mahal (the lady for whom India’s

Taj Mahal was created), Khan died in 1641.
Shalimar Gardens An autorickshaw/taxi from The Mall to
To the northeast of town, about 4km from Jehangir’s Tomb (or Nur Jahan’s Tomb,
the main train station, this was one of three described below) costs about Rs 350/700.
gardens named Shalimar Gardens created by
Shah Jahan in the 17th century. It’s also the Nur Jahan’s Tomb
only surviving Mughal garden of several built Just over the railway line from Jehangir’s
in Lahore. The gardens (Map p98; Grand Trunk Rd; Tomb but not as well preserved is the tomb
admission Rs 200; h7am-30min before sunset 1 Apr-30 Sep, of Nur Jahan (Map p98; admission Rs 200, incl entry to
8am-30min before sunset 1 Oct-31 Mar) are now rather Jehangir’s Tomb; h8am-5pm). After the death of
run-down and a far cry from their former her first husband, an Afghan prince, Nur
glory, but they’re still popular with locals. Jahan was carted off to Delhi, destined for
Many of the fountains were under renovation captivity. However, Emperor Jehangir fell
at the time of research and operate at particu- in love with her and they married in 1611.
lar times (10am to 11am and 4pm to 5pm 1 He gave her the name Nur Jahan, mean-
April to 30 September; 11am to noon and 3pm ing ‘Light of the World’, and allowed her
to 4pm 1 October to 31 March). to rule alongside him. She died aged 72
The walled gardens were laid out in a in 1645, 18 years after Jehangir, and her
central tier with two smaller and lower ones tomb was completed in the same year. One
to either side, with a pool of correspond- story is that, pining for her dead husband,
ing size, in keeping with the mathemati- she planned the tomb herself and wrote its
cal principles of Mughal design. Visitors mournful epitaph.
originally entered at the lowest level and
walked up through successive gardens illu- Chughtai Museum
minated by hundreds of candles housed in Originally intended to be temporary but
chini khanas (niches). open since 1975, the year Muhammad
To get to the gardens, catch bus 4 from Abdur Rahman Chughtai died, the Chughtai
the train station. An autorickshaw from The Museum (Map p98; admission free; h 2pm-sunset
Mall costs about Rs 250. Mon-Sat) is just northwest of the intersection
of Ferozpur Rd and Gulberg Main Blvd.
Jehangir’s Tomb Recognised as Pakistan’s greatest painter and
Standing in a garden on the northern out- credited with a single-handed renaissance in
skirts of Lahore, this elaborately decorated Islamic art here, Chughtai (1897–1975) pro-
sandstone tomb (Map p98; admission Rs 200, incl entry duced almost 2000 watercolours, thousands
to Nur Jahan’s Tomb; h8am-5pm) is that of Emperor of pencil sketches and nearly 300 etchings and
Jehangir. Built in 1637 by Jehangir’s son, aquatints. He also designed many of Pakistan’s
Shah Jahan, it’s believed to have been de- stamps and coins.
signed by Jehangir’s widow, Nur Jahan. The It’s possible to see works of Chughtai that
tomb is made of marble with trellis decora- are not in the exhibition if you contact the
tions of pietra dura bearing the 99 attributes director, Mr Arif Rahman Chughtai (%5850733;
lonelyplanet.com L A H O R E • • A c t i v i t i e s 109

Chughtai Museum Trust, Mian Salah Mimar Lane, 4 Garden sofas, that is a perfect place to cool your heels over a
Town, Lahore) in advance. It’s also probably a steaming cup of coffee (Rs 50).
good idea to phone just ahead of your visit to
make sure someone is there. Golf
Gymkhana Club (Map p98; %5756690, golf depart-
Prince Kamran Baradari Park ment 5750301; Upper Mall; nonmembers Rs 1000, caddie
The baradari (summer pavilion) of Prince Rs 200, equipment hire Rs 600; h5am-sunset) Tee off
Kamran, son of the first Mughal emperor with Lahore’s society set at this exclusive club’s private
Zahiruddin Babur, stands on a small island golf course.
in the Ravi River (the river is on the northern Lahore Garrison Golf Country Club (Map p98;
outskirts of town). When it was completed %6660016; cnr New Airport & Choudhary Amjad Rds;
in 1540 the Ravi was several hundred metres nonmembers 18 holes Rs 700, caddie 18 holes Rs 150,
away and the baradari was in a large garden equipment hire Rs 400; h5am-around 11pm) Located
adjacent to the town. Its two storeys still open

PUNJAB
near the airport, the greens here are also in
to a 12-columned vaulted veranda (baradari tip-top condition.
literally means 12 gates). These days a great
deal of its former romance has disappeared Polo & Horseriding Lessons
and few travellers make the trip here. Lahore Polo Club (Map p100; %6310285; www
If water levels are not too low, rowing boats .lahorepolo.com; Race Course Park; polo lessons Rs 3000
make the return trip from the Lahore side per month) This club offers polo lessons of one hour per
for Rs 25 per person (minimum 10 people). day; advance bookings essential. Horseriding and tent
Alternatively, you can negotiate a fare for pegging classes are also available.
smaller groups.
Swimming
ACTIVITIES The prices given below are on a per-day basis
Art Galleries & Performing Arts unless otherwise specified. Some hotels slap
Alhamra Art Gallery (Map p98; %9230791; Qaddafi on a 15% tax (not included here).
Stadium, Ferozpur Rd, Gulberg; h8am-1pm & 2-6pm Ambassador (Map p100; %6316820; 7 Davis Rd; Rs 500)
Mon-Sat) This gallery, not to be confused with the Alhamra Avari (Map p100; %6365366; 87 The Mall; Rs 500)
described below, houses Lahore’s largest permanent Holiday Inn (Map p100; %6310077; 25 Egerton Rd;
collection of artwork. There are two floors exhibiting fine Rs 1000) The fee includes use of the hotel’s Jacuzzi and
paintings by Pakistani artists. This gallery is part of the steambath.
Alhamra Cultural Complex, which sometimes has musical Lahore Garrison Golf Country Club ((Map p98;
and theatrical performances. %6660016; cnr New Airport & Choudhary Amjad Rds; Rs
Alhamra Arts Centre (Map p100; %9200953; The 200) This is one of the best-value places to take a cool dip.
Mall; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat, 8am-noon Fri) Less than Model Town Club (Map p98; Model Town; per hr Rs 100)
500m east of the Avari hotel, the Alhamra has three thea- Open only from March to September, it’s not as swanky as
tre halls and is Lahore’s main centre for musical, dramatic other pools but it’s still in good condition and long enough
and other performing arts. Tickets for a drama perform- to do decent laps. There are separate sex timings (men from
ance usually cost between Rs 120 and Rs 300. 6am to 8pm, women from 8pm to 10.30pm). An autorick-
Chitrkar Studio & Gallery (Map p98; %5758897; shaw from The Mall costs about Rs 100.
www.lahorechitrkar.com; 41-B3, Gulberg III; h11am- Pearl Continental (Map p100; %gym 6362760; The
7pm Sat-Thu) Apart from frequent art exhibitions, Chitrkar Mall; incl entrance to health club Rs 1150)
puts on an enjoyable classical music evening once a month.
Ejaz Galleries (Map p98; %5762784; ejazartgallery@ Tennis & Squash
yahoo.com, www.ejazartgallery.com; 79/B-1, MM Alam Avari (Map p100; %6365366; 87 The Mall; tennis courts
Rd, Gulberg III; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat) Just off MM Alam per 45min Rs 200, plus 15% tax)
Rd (turn at KFC) this classy gallery has an innovative col- Lahore Garrison Golf Country Club (Map p98;
lection of paintings by Pakistani artists. The paintings are %6660016; cnr New Airport & Choudhary Amjad Rds) Has
also for sale (expect to pay around Rs 6000 to Rs 100,000 two tennis courts and several air-con squash courts (each Rs
per piece). 200 per day; equipment extra). Not as centrally located as
Nairang Galleries (Map p98; %7586686; 101 Habitat the Avari and Pearl Continental hotels, but a lot cheaper.
Flat, Jail Rd; h11am-11pm) This small but high-quality Pearl Continental (Map p100; %6362760; The Mall;
gallery focuses on Pakistani art with items selling upwards tennis courts per hr Rs 230, plus 15% tax) Advance book-
of Rs 6000. There’s also a little café, replete with spongy ings essential.
 110 L A H O R E • • C o u r s e s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

COURSES from the date it was celebrated in the previous

Alhamra Arts Centre (Map p100; %9200953; The year. For nationwide festivals see p370.
Mall; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat, 8am-noon Fri) Has short Lahore celebrates the onset of spring
courses (around three months; advance bookings essential) (February/March) with Basant, a popular one-
in painting, tabla (drums), sitar, harmonium, guitar, violin day kite-flying festival (you can even see kites
and singing. Telephone for fee details. zigzagging across the night sky on the evening
Chitrkar Studio & Gallery (Map p98; %5758897; before). On this high-spirited day, Lahorites
www.lahorechitrkar.com; 259 Upper Mall) In a serene scramble onto rooftops to merrily fly their
residential locale, this nonprofit organisation offers lessons kites, or simply watch others do so. At the
in painting or classical music (sitar, tabla, flute and vocal). time of research there were rumours that this
The milieu here is chilled out yet creatively energetic, festival may be cancelled due to injuries and
providing the perfect vibe to get artistic juices flowing. deaths that had occurred when kite strings
Courses can be tailor-made to suit individual needs and tangled up motorcycle riders.
In late October/early November the National
PUNJAB

are run on a donation basis (don’t neglect to contribute).

Chitrkar is run by respected local artists, providing an Horse & Cattle Show, combined with a military
opportunity to break into Lahore’s artistic circle. tattoo, is held at the Fortress Stadium for a
week. This is your chance to watch camel
TOURS and folk dancing, tent pegging, feats of
Film Studio Tour (%7311987, 03334338588; Regale equestrianism and parades of Pakistan’s
Internet Inn) The owner of the Regale Internet Inn (op- champion livestock.
posite) sometimes takes guests (nonguests welcome) to Other annual events include Mela Chiraghan
see the live shooting of a Pakistani film. With plenty of (Festival of Lights) on the last weekend of
conniving villains, damsels in distress, moustached heroes March beside Shalimar Gardens. Devotees
and guns galore, this is Lahore’s (Lollywood’s) answer to from throughout the province light lamps on
Bollywood. There is generously no charge for this tour – all the Saturday in memory of the 16th-century
you pay for is your conveyance. Sufi poet Shah Hussain, and enjoy a convivial
Tourism Development Corporation of Punjab fair on the Sunday. City streets overflow with
(TDCP; Map p100; %9201189; 4A Lawrence Rd; h8am- stalls frying up such goodies as katalama –
3pm Mon-Sat) Operates two daily city tours (per person Rs huge pizza-like discs of fried bread.
450, 3½ hours). The fee does not include applicable The urs of Data Ganj Bakhsh Hajveri is held at
admission fees to the sights. An air-con minibus picks up his shrine in March/April with one day of
passengers at the TDCP office on Lawrence Rd, as well as at formal ceremonies followed by two days of
the Holiday Inn, Ambassador, Pearl Continental and Avari less-sombre celebrations.
hotels. The morning tour leaves the TDCP at 8.30am and
takes in Badshahi Mosque, Lahore Fort, Jehangir’s Tomb SLEEPING
and the Lahore Museum. The afternoon tour leaves the Budget
TDCP at 2.30pm (3.30pm summer) and covers Shalimar At the time of research, virtually all budget
Gardens, Old City, the Mosque of Wazir Khan, Sunehri Mas- travellers stayed at one place – the Regale
jid and the Royal Baths. The TDCP can also arrange tours Internet Inn. Budget alternatives are scarce,
beyond Lahore (prices on application) as well as to the small and on the gloomy side – also many
border-closing ceremony at Wagah (Rs 750 per person, Rs places visited would not accept foreigners as
550 per person if there’s more than two people). Advance guests. During summer air-con is a luxury
bookings are essential. For a description of the border- that will cost you dearly.
closing ceremony see the boxed text on p120. Retiring Rooms (Map p100; %9201110; Platform 2,
Lahore City Railway Station; d Rs 150) Only open to tran-
FESTIVALS & EVENTS sit air-con or 1st-class sleeper ticketholders
Festival dates usually vary from year to year (departing within 24 hours), the train station
and may only be fixed a few months prior has just five rooms so is often booked out.
to the event. To ascertain exact dates you’ll Although rather insipid, rooms are cheap and
need to ask locals (Malik, owner of the Regale only recommended if your train departs at a
Internet Inn, keeps abreast of all events in- silly hour. If you’re having trouble finding the
cluding the plethora of Sufi festivals, so it’s best rooms, go to the Platform Inspector & Tourist
to email or call him when planning your trip – Adviser Office (Platform 4).
see p111) or the PTDC (see p101). Some festi- Queen’s Way Hotel (Map p100; %7229734; 42 New
val days can be ascertained by subtracting 13 Anarkali Rd; s/d Rs 200/400, s/d with air-con Rs 800/1000)
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels L A H O R E • • S l e e p i n g 111

If you wish to stay in the heart of colourful & Sons) to its left. The inn is less than half a
Anarkali Bazaar, this small, no-frills hotel is minute’s walk down this lane in a nondescript
a good budget option. The rooms are undeni- building to your right with an orange sign,
ably basic but this place has more character at the top of a steep flight of stairs. If you get
than many other hotels and is relatively inex- lost, a well-known nearby landmark is the
pensive considering the location. Regal Cinema.
Clifton Hotel (Map p100; %6366740; Australia Chowk; Orient Hotel (Map p100; %7223906; 74 McLeod
s without bathroom Rs 200, s/d Rs 260/350, s/d with air-con Rd; s/d/tr Rs 435/621/807, s with air-con Rs 1800)
Rs 1000/1100) If you absolutely have to stay near The Orient’s cheapest rooms are drab
the train station, this hotel is the pick of the and dingy – you’re better off paying a bit
bunch. It has the best-value rooms, congenial more to get one of its more-comfortable
staff and a dining hall. (more-expensive) rooms.
oRegale Internet Inn (Map p100; %7311987, Garden Hotel (Map p100; %7322986; 10 New Anarkali
03334338588; www.regale.com.pk; Surriaya Mansion, Regal Rd; s/d Rs 500/800, s/d with air-con Rs 700/1100) At the

PUNJAB
Lane, 65 The Mall; r without bathroom Rs 180, r with air- Lahori Gate end of the Anarkali Bazaar, this
con Rs 700; i) Attracting a constant stream hotel is not only in a great location it is also
of travellers, this mellow little guesthouse good value. Cheap eats surround the hotel.
is the place in Lahore to meet fellow travel- Parkway (Map p100; %6315647; McLeod Rd; s/d
lers. Moreover, single females will not have Rs 600/700, s/d with air-con Rs 1000/1100) Although not
a problem here. as good as the Clifton, the nearby Parkway
The star attraction of this place is its happy- is still a lot better than many other hotels
go-lucky owner, Malik, and his son Faseeh. around here with fairly good, if somewhat
Malik is a former journalist; not only is he a musty, tired-looking rooms. It also has a
friendly fellow and a goldmine of information, dining hall.
he’ll also give you an astonishing insight into United Hotel (Map p100; %6374793; 1 Abbot Rd; s/d
local culture (see boxed text, p104). Going Rs 600/1200; a) Not sizzling-hot value, but the
beyond the call of duty, Malik will even lend rooms here are OK apart from being sterile.
a therapeutic hand if you’re feeling green – Lahore Hotel (Map p100; %7235961; Farooq Centre,
his ‘magic tea’ (Rs 5) has revitalised many a McLeod Rd; s/d Rs 1600/1800) Opposite the Orient
queasy traveller. Hotel and perched above numerous layers of
The inn is a warren of a place, but thank- motorcycle repair shops, this hotel is a little
fully there’s a sunny open-air rooftop that’s tired and at the pricey end of the McLeod
good for settling back with a drink and a good Rd options.
book. Although the inn’s rooms are nothing
fancy, you can’t argue with the price, which Midrange
includes free filtered drinking water, a map Many midrange properties are begging for a
of Lahore, use of the washing machine, access lick of fresh paint and general spring clean.
to the book collection and even a free shalwar On the bright side, rooms come with their
kameez for women. You’re also welcome to own bathroom, colour TV and in-house
use the kitchen, which has just enough room restaurant/room service. Some rooms are
to flip an egg. Rooms with private bathroom centrally air-conditioned, which can be
are being planned. ineffective, so try to get an in-room unit.
Malik compensates for Lahore’s lacklustre The majority of hotels in this price category
nightlife by frequently inviting musicians to whack a 24.2% tax onto room rates (taxes not
jam on the rooftop. They’re not just amateurs – included below).
you might have the privilege of hearing the Hotel Koh-e-Noor (Map p100; %6313851; 1 Abbot Rd;
mystical folk singer Sain Zahoor and drum- s/d Rs 600/1000, s/d with air-con Rs 800/1200) The pick
ming dynamos Gonga and Mithu Saeen. You of the cheap end of the midrange bunch, at
won’t be asked for a single rupee by the mu- Koh-e-Noor the rooms are clean and the staff
sicians but please ensure you contribute a helpful. The positives of this new hotel out-
little something. weigh the small rooms.
The Regale Internet Inn is hidden away Hotel Shah Taj International (Map p100; %6313821;
down Regal Lane. From The Mall, look for 13 Nicholson Rd; s/d Rs 750/1000, s/d with air-con Rs
the small lane that has a flower stall to its right 1000/1250) The sweeping views of the Lahore
and a large department store (H Karim Buksh skyline from the top floor are the highlight
 112 L A H O R E • • S l e e p i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

of this hotel. The property would certainly Carlton Tower Hotel (Map p100; %6316700; carlton
benefit from a renovation blitz, but at least [email protected]; 14 Empress Rd; s/d Rs 3500/4500;
the prices aren’t over the top. ai) Formerly called Hotel Kashmir Palace,
Lords Hotel (Map p100; %6301517; 73 The Mall; s/d a new name and a renovation make for a
Rs 1200/1500) Although the rooms are basic, the good-value option with wi-fi and breakfast
location can not be beat. During research, included.
renovations were planned that will certainly Best Western Shalimar (Map p98; %5784411; bwslp@
push the reasonable prices up. brain.net.pk; 36 Liberty Market, Gulberg; s/d Rs 4500/5000;
Hotel Sanai (Map p100; %6316501; 1 Abbot Rd; s/d ai) Although some rooms are a wee bit
Rs 1200/1850; a) The Sanai has biggish rooms small, they’re certainly comfortable and well
and is probably the most salubrious midrange maintained. Courteous staff and free wi-fi
option if you wish to stay reasonably close to make this hotel one of the most appealing in
the main train station. the midrange bunch.
Bakhtawar (Map p100; %6302845; 11 Abbot Rd; s/d
PUNJAB

Ambassador (Map p100; %6316820; hotelambassador

Rs 1600/1800; a) Although the only star factor @pol.com.pk; 7 Davis Rd; s/d Rs 5500/6000; ais) The
about this hotel is its spacious (albeit tatty) setting of the Ambassador is so-so and the staff
rooms, the Bakhtawar still scores more marks seems a bit sullen, but the rooms are kept in
than some other properties near the train fairly good shape – as they should be at this
station. A facelift was planned at the time price. The included breakfast is very average.
of research. Hotel Sun Fort (Map p98; %5763810; sunfort@brain
Hotel Elites (Map p98; %5760064; fayyazelites@hotmail .net.pk; 72-D/1, Liberty Commercial Zone, Gulberg III; s/d Rs
.com; 104-B/1, MM Alam Rd, Gulberg III; s/d Rs 1800/2400; 6000/7000) Another Gulberg option, however,
a) An excellent option if you need to stay it’s pricey for what is on offer.
in Gulberg; friendly staff, comfortable rooms
and a good-value tariff. The culinary delights Top End
of MM Alam Rd surround the hotel. If you like your creature comforts there are
Amer Hotel (Map p100; %7115015; info@amerhotel several luxurious possibilities. Rooms have an
.com.pk; 46 Lower Mall; s/d Rs 2000/2500; a) A fairly en suite and come with all the trappings you’d
sound choice in the Lower Mall area – given expect at these prices. Most have a compli-
Lahore’s paucity of midrange offerings – but mentary buffet breakfast and airport shuttle,
like most places, it lacks pizzazz. so don’t forget to provide your arrival details
National Hotel (Map p100; %6363011; nhl@brain when making a reservation. All top-end hotels
.net.pk; 1 Abbot Rd; s/d Rs 2000/2500; a) Although are subject to 24.2% tax (not included in the
overpriced, the National is still a passable pos- prices below).
sibility in the train station area. Check out a Holiday Inn (Map p100; %6310077; www.holiday
few rooms first as they are a mixed bag in innlahore.com; 25 Egerton Rd; s/d Rs 8000/9000; ais)
terms of cleanliness. Although not quite as elegant as Pearl
Indus Hotel (Map p100; %6302856; 56 The Mall; s/d Continental, the staff here extend a warmer
Rs 2500/3000; a) Apart from being a bit musty welcome and the price won’t pack as much
and mundane the rooms are not to be sneered of a punch. There are all the usual five-star
at, considering the tariff for this midrange and amenities including smart rooms, three good
its central location. restaurants, free internet and an efficient busi-
Grand Hotel (Map p100; %6303402; [email protected] ness centre. If you’ve had a killer of a day, a
.pk; 11 Davis Rd; s/d Rs 3000/3500; ai) Next door to rejuvenating massage (Rs 1200, one hour)
the Ambassador, this new hotel is staffed by should bring you back to life.
friendly Lahorites and is great value among Leaders Inn Hotel (Map p100; %6300741; www
the other midranges. .leadersinnhotel.com; 6 Montgomery Rd; s/d Rs 8000/9000;
Hotel Fort View (Map p100; %7671754; www.hotel ais) Leaders Inn is a recent addition
fortview.com; Roshnai Gate, Old City; s/d Rs 3000/3500, d with to the top-end line-up, with parts still under
views Rs 4000; a) The views from the 3rd floor construction at the time of research. Try the
above Badshahi Mosque and Lahore Fort are rooftop restaurant and pool area for great
breathtaking, particularly at night. It’s worth city views.
spending the extra to stay in a view room, even Avari (Map p100; %6365366; www.avari.com; 87 The
if the gaudy décor is not your thing. Located Mall; s/d Rs 10,000/11,000; ais) With a recent
opposite Roshnai Gate of Badshahi Mosque. renovation the Avari sits between the Pearl
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels L A H O R E • • E a t i n g 113

Continental and the Holiday Inn in terms of place takes on a festive buzz. To stave off the
overall quality. The staff is helpful, the rooms bad bugs make sure you stick to food that is
are generous in size and the hotel boasts ex- cooked in front of you.
tras such as five restaurants, a pool area and Also near The Mall, and similar to the
several tennis courts. Gowal Mandi set-up, is so-called Tourist Street
Pearl Continental (Map p100; %111505505; www (Map p100; Old Anarkali; mains Rs 30-200; hlunch & din-
.pchotels.com; The Mall; s/d Rs 10,000/12,000; ais) ner). It’s another terrific place to fill your belly
This is Lahore’s most upmarket hotel, replete without spending a fortune. The aroma of
with five restaurants and a shopping arcade, cooking oil and barbecued meat fills the air
bakery, gym, tennis court, beauty parlour (a and, like Gowal Mandi, Tourist St has a focus
men’s haircut by the ‘artistic director’ will set on Pakistani food and also springs to life after
you back Rs 2500) and more. The property has sunset, when traffic is denied entry.
two wings: the Mall (which was having a few Chaman (Map p100; Bedan Rd, The Mall; per 2 scoop serve
floors added to it at the time of research) and Rs 17; h24hr) For a cool cone or three you really

PUNJAB
the more opulent Atrium (an Atrium single/ can’t do much better than Chaman, which has
double costs Rs 15,000/17,000). For sheer carved a name for itself as one of Lahore’s
luxury go for the Presidential Suite (a cool Rs most-loved ice-cream parlours. If you have
70,000; Room 850 is nice). It’s a shame that room, try the fruit juices.
the marine creatures in the foyer’s big fish Fiesta (Map p100; Bedan Rd, The Mall; per 2 scoop
tank exhibit more joie de vivre than many of serve Rs 17; h24hr) Although not as legen-
the snooty staff. dary as Chaman next door, Fiesta is work-
ing hard to win the hearts of ice-cream
EATING aficionados with a tantalising melange of
The hungry traveller will be happy to know sweet-sounding scoops.
that Lahore is widely regarded as Pakistan’s Faluda Shop (Map p100; Bedan Rd, The Mall; per serve Rs
gourmet capital. Spice junkies will relish 30; h24hr) Opposite Fiesta, this is a good place
Lahore’s Pakistani fare – which usually has to sample your very first faluda (vermicelli
plenty of zing – but greenhorns should per- and ice cream).
haps request less chilli at first, as regular prep- Eat & Sip (Map p100; %6307739; 71 Naqi Arcade, The
arations can fry uninitiated taste buds. Mall; mains Rs 70-210; hlunch & dinner) If you have
Sampling the local cuisine is heartily en- to eat and run, this nondescript restaurant
couraged. However, travellers homesick for has a hotchpotch of takeaway or dine-in
familiar fast food will easily find an ever- fast food such as chicken burgers (Rs 110),
multiplying number of chains. For some- club sandwiches (Rs 110) and a satiating (if
thing more homegrown head for Gulberg, somewhat greasy) ‘lunchbox’ (quarter fried
which has the city’s most hip and innovative chicken, French fries and coleslaw; Rs 85). The
multicuisine restaurants. innocent-looking preparations in the salad
A tip is generally expected at most restau- bar can be deceptively chilli-hot (250g/1000g
rants (not street stalls) – locals tend to give serve for Rs 30/120).
around 5% of the bill. Midrange and upper- oCooco’s Den & Café (Map p100; %7635955;
range restaurants have a 15% tax added to 2168-9/A Roshnai Gate, Fort Rd, Old City; mains Rs 95-660;
menu prices (not included here). hlunch & dinner; a) Set in an eclectic family
haveli (traditional mansion), with glorious
The Mall and Old City views of the Badshahi Mosque and environs,
Near The Mall, and aptly dubbed ‘Food Street’ the vistas and ambience of this restaurant
by locals, the area called Gowal Mandi (Map p100; score slightly higher marks than the food
mains Rs 30-200; hlunch & dinner) is brilliant for a (which is still not at all bad).
cheap, hearty feed. The fierce competition The owner, artist Iqbal Hussain, primarily
between the many eateries along this street paints portraits of the nautch (dancing) girls
works to the customer’s benefit, with a va- of Heera Mandi (Lahore’s red-light district),
riety of tasty, good-value Pakistani cuisine. the area in which the haveli is located.
Although some places are open for lunch, The menu features Pakistani cuisine with
the action really begins after sunset when traditional favourites. Some more-unusual
the area is completely closed to traffic; chairs offerings include qeema wala naan (flat bread
and tables are set up on the street; and the stuffed with spiced minced lamb; Rs 90) and
 114 L A H O R E • • E a t i n g lonelyplanet.com

for dessert, alamghiri laula (a seasonal carrot- than at ‘regular’ general stores, but the variety
based sweet; Rs 140). (and often quality) is superior. Very handy if
Dinner is the most atmospheric time to you are staying at Regale Internet Inn.
dine here – the top of the haveli is a great place
to watch the sunset and the Badshahi Mosque Gulberg
become illuminated. If you’re sick of eating out of a can, brown
Cookers (Map p100; %7229605; cnr The Mall & McLeod paper bag or hermetically sealed container,
Rd; mains Rs 150-350; hlunch & dinner) The outdoor Gulberg is just the place to shake off the
dining area on The Mall is a great place to tuck budget blues. Most eateries are bunched
into salt ’n’ pepper squid (Rs 220), Arabian along MM Alam Rd and Gulberg Main Blvd
sole in lemon-herb sauce (Rs 310) or coconut and these can fill up in a flash (particularly
chicken curry (Rs 290). Bookings for dinner on weekends) so it’s not a bad idea to book
are recommended. ahead. To ensure you’re well fed, make sure
Bundu Khan (Map p100; %7231994; 23 The Mall; mains your moneybelt is well fed first. From The
PUNJAB

Rs 150-350; hlunch & dinner) With other branches Mall to MM Alam Rd an autorickshaw/taxi
in Lahore, Bundu Khan cooks up piquant costs about Rs 250/400.
Pakistani cuisine with menu items including a Jammin’ Java (Map p98; 44-L MM Alam Rd; h8.30am-
tasty mutton tikka (Rs 2605) and, for the more midnight; a) Make a beeline for this hip café
adventurous, brain masala (Rs 235). There are if you’re suffering withdrawal symptoms
also non-Pakistani alternatives such as beef from lack of a real cup of coffee. There are
burgers (Rs 190) and chicken corn soup (Rs frothy cappuccinos (from Rs 105) and lattes,
280). During lunchtime this branch mainly espressos and flavoured coffees. If you’ve been
deals in takeaway, but in the evening diners dragged here by a coffee freak (but aren’t one
can use the tables and chairs set up outside. yourself) there are caffeine-free options such
Salt‘n’Pepper (Map p100; %7244009; 26 The Mall; mains as the Hunza High fresh fruit smoothie (Rs
Rs 160-340; hlunch & dinner; a) Recommended for 145), as well as light bites. JJ is below the Levis
its tasty Pakistani and Continental cuisine, store opposite Café Zouk.
this restaurant is a welcome retreat from the Gun Smoke (Map p98; %5875572; 11C MM Alam Rd;
frenetic streets. A top seller is the boneless mains Rs 119-609; hlunch & dinner; a) In this Wild
chicken handi (chicken dunked in a tomato- West steak house you won’t bump into any
based gravy; half/full serve Rs 260/480). Or cowboys, but you can enjoy MTV or the latest
perhaps a club sandwich (Rs 160) and slice of cricket match on your own in-booth screen.
apple pie (Rs 70) will suffice. Salt’n’Pepper has Brace yourself for some heat if ordering the
several branches in Lahore. Reservations are jalapeño chicken wings (Rs 309 for a dozen)
recommended on weekends. and if you are hungry try the Red Hot Sherrif’s
Dumpukht (Map p100; %6362760; Pearl Continental, Cut steak (Rs 609).
The Mall; mains Rs 350-750; hlunch & dinner; a) Named Café Zouk (Map p98; %5750272; 43-L Complex
after the cuisine championed by the nawabs Plaza, MM Alam Rd; mains Rs 149-599; hlunch & din-
(Muslim princes) of Avadh (Lucknow, India) ner; a) Funky Zouk whips up imaginative
some 300 years ago, this is one of the PC’s Continental and Thai creations including a
five fine restaurants. Try the delicious murgh divine Pattaya sweet and sour fish (Rs 549),
pukhraaj (chicken cooked in yogurt, saffron, Ethiopian chicken in red pepper sauce (Rs
Afghan spices and garnished with edible silver 329) and a superb New York cheesecake (Rs
paper) – one of the chef’s favourites. For a 179 per slice). Cocktail buffs can sip on a piña
midnight snack, takeaway cakes, croissants, colada (minus the kick) for Rs 149.
chocolate doughnuts and other sugary delights Pizzerio Uno Chicago Grill (Map p98; %5763743;
are available at the hotel’s Pastry Shop. 2-C-11 MM Alam Rd; mains Rs 186-516; hlunch & dinner;
For self-catering options, H Karim Buksh & a) Decked out in an Al Capone theme, this
Sons (Map p100; The Mall; h10.30am-10pm Mon-Sat, is perhaps Lahore’s best place to sink your
11.30am-9.30pm Sun) The supermarket (lower chompers into a 12oz fillet steak (Rs 336). Its
level) of this modern shopping complex has a tandoori chicken pizza (Rs 186) is also a treat,
tremendous range of local and imported gro- as is the Chicago cheesecake (Rs 170).
ceries. Soup mixes, spaghetti, cream biscuits, Tai Wah (Map p98; %5714988; 78-E-1 Gulberg Main
cheese, fruit yogurt, cereal – you name it, Blvd; mains Rs 230-520, buffet lunch/dinner Rs 350/430;
they’ve probably got it. Prices are a bit higher hlunch & dinner; a) Offers à la carte dining
lonelyplanet.com L A H O R E • • D r i n k i n g 115

in addition to a yummy-looking buffet. The If you’re self-catering, the well-stocked and

buffet is better value. modern Pace Supermarket (Map p98; Pace shopping
Freddy’s Café (Map p98; %5754416; 12C MM Alam complex, 124 Gulberg Main Blvd; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat)
Rd; mains Rs 245-995; hlunch & dinner; a) Convivial has a similar range to H Karim Buksh & Sons
yet with attitude, Freddy’s flaunts a ‘politi- (see opposite).
cally correct menu’ that includes Continental
dishes ‘flavoured to local preferences’. There’s Fortress Stadium
everything from Dijon steak (Rs 475) to Located at the corner of The Mall and Allama
Afghan ‘Tora Bora’ chicken (Rs 465). The des- Iqbal Rd in the Cantonment, Fortress Stadium
sert menu is deliciously insane – who could has a handful of restaurants catering to
possibly resist the ‘Limited Democracy’ ice Lahore’s upper-crust families and military
cream (Rs 110) and ‘Day & Night’ chocolate officers. It’s at its most animated during the
mousse (Rs 105)? evening. Although upmarket, the restaurants
Dhaba (Map p98; %5753516; 93-B-1 MM Alam Rd;

PUNJAB
here are not nearly as in vogue as those of
mains Rs 265-765; hlunch & dinner; a) Features sub- Gulberg. This stadium also has a cinema,
continental specialities with especially good tenpin bowling alley, children’s fun park, a
Mughlai dishes such as nawabi salan (chicken collection of shops and several food chains.
in cashew-nut gravy with herbs and ginger; Rs Iceberg (Map p98; 1/2/3/4 scoops Rs 30/50/65/75; a)
330). There are also some Continental offer- If you’ve been shopping like a mad thing for
ings – the goat cheese and shrimp pasta (Rs CDs and DVDs and need a frosty pep-up,
520) and grilled tiger prawns in lemon butter this ice-cream parlour is a godsend replete
sauce (Rs 785) look promising. You can eat with icicles hanging from the ceiling. Its 20
indoors or out in the breezy courtyard. flavours include wild strawberry, praline and
Ziafat (Map p98; %5878746; 21-C-1 MM Alam Rd; chocolate fudge; toppings are an extra Rs 20.
buffet lunch/dinner Rs 275/450; hlunch & dinner; a) Mei Kong (Map p98; %6652069; mains Rs 175-670;
Ziafat predominantly attracts young families, hlunch & dinner; a) This large Chinese res-
some of whom unfortunately allow their little taurant has an extensive menu with vegetable
darlings to treat the place like a playground. chow mein (Rs 245) and prawn chop suey (Rs
Nonetheless, the buffet is good value. 320) among the usual Chinese fare.
Carpe Diem (Map p98; %5874554; 67-B-1 Gulberg Shezan (Map p98; %6651315; mains Rs 175-670;
III; mains Rs 395-2250; hlunch & dinner; a) Just off hlunch & dinner; a) This family restaurant
MM Alam Rd, Carpe Diem serves up organic serves up Pakistani and Continental favour-
Mediterranean fusion cuisine. It has a strict ites including mutton handi (Rs 330) and
‘no soft drink’ policy – however the fruit and cheese stuffed chicken breast (Rs 300). Also
vegetable detox concoction is invigorating does takeaway.
(Rs 145). Enjoy the walnut chicken (Rs 495)
or the seafood platter (Rs 1495) in the white- DRINKING
washed Med-inspired surroundings. There Pakistan is a ‘dry’ nation, so watering holes
are live music performances during dinner on aren’t found anywhere other than at a few hotels,
Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. and even at these you are legally required to
Café Aylanto (Map p98; %5751886; 12-C-1 MM Alam have a liquor permit.
Rd; mains Rs 485-2850; hlunch & dinner; a) With Excise & Taxation Department (Map p100;
seating inside and outdoors, this good-looking %9211619; Mozang Rd; h8am-3pm Mon-Thu, 8am-1pm
café tosses up a range of pastas (Rs 475 to Rs Fri) Near Farid Court House, this is the place
695) as well as other Continental tempters to get a liquor permit. Go to Room 33 on the
including New Zealand lamb chops (Rs 1450) 2nd floor with your passport, as well as one
and Norwegian salmon steaks (Rs 875). For photocopy of your visa, entry stamps and the
pure indulgence you can’t beat the lobster front pages. You may also need a few pass-
thermidor (Rs 285 per 100g). port photos. A permit lasting anything up to
Village Restaurant (Map p98; %5750735; 103-B-2 a month costs Rs 50; for two/three months
MM Alam Rd; Pakistani buffet only, lunch/dinner Rs 490/590; it costs Rs 90/130. There are off-licences or
hlunch & dinner; a) This restaurant gets the ‘permit rooms’ only at the Pearl Continental,
stamp of approval from travellers for its satiat- Holiday Inn, Ambassador and Avari hotels.
ing buffet. Recommended for those contem- These are open 8am to 1pm and 3pm to 6pm
plating a civilised feeding frenzy. Saturday to Thursday and you can use your
 116 L A H O R E • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t lonelyplanet.com

liquor permit at any of them. Guests of these Qaddafi Stadium (Gaddafi Stadium; Map p98;
hotels can also get permits (for the same fee) %9230791; Ferozpur Rd, Gulberg) Lahore’s premier
on the spot, which involves less rigmarole venue for major domestic and international cricket
than getting them at the Excise & Taxation matches, surf up www.pcboa rd.com.pk.
Department. During research nonguests told
us that they’ve been able to buy liquor at some HOCKEY & SOCCER
of these hotels without a permit, by making National Hockey Stadium (Map p98; %5754727)
‘discreet inquiries’ (the hotel may ask you to Located opposite Qaddafi Stadium, this is
fill out a form on the spot). Murree beer costs the venue for field hockey matches and also
Rs 100/110 for a bottle of regular/classic. football (soccer).

ENTERTAINMENT POLO
Although Lahore doesn’t have a pub or night- Lahore Polo Club (Map p100; %6310285; [email protected]
club scene, it has cinemas where you can ex-
PUNJAB

.pk; Race Course Park) Flanked by well-tended green

perience your first Pakistani blockbuster or grounds, this calm and genteel club (which is
watch an English-language flick. Lahore is almost 120 years old) is a world away from
Pakistan’s cultural capital, so you’ve got a the traffic snarls of downtown Lahore. Most
good chance of catching musical or theatrical matches seem to be free of charge for tourists,
performances at various venues during your making this an economical way of hobnob-
stay. The Regale Internet Inn often has im- bing with the local elite either during a match
promptu musical performances and everyone or over a pot of tea at the country-clubesque
is welcome – for more details, see p111. polo lounge, which is open for both lunch and
dinner. The polo season runs from around
Cinemas late October to late April – telephone for
The highest concentration of cinemas is match details.
on Abbott and McLeod Rds. Tickets range
from Rs 40 to Rs 65. Your best chances SHOPPING
of seeing an English-language film are at Most shops in Lahore are closed on Sunday
the following places (see newspapers for and some also shut their doors between
screening details): 1pm and 2pm on Friday. The big depart-
Gulistan Cinema (Map p100; Abbott Rd) Sometimes ment stores and upmarket shops generally
screens English-language films. have fixed prices. Elsewhere, you should don
Plaza Cinema (Map p100; Charing Cross, The Mall) Has your haggling hat – but remember, bargain-
the highest frequency of English-language movies. ing should never turn ugly. Always keep in
Regal Cinema (Map p100; The Mall) Another good place mind exactly how much a rupee is worth
to catch a Hollywood blockbuster. in your home currency so you don’t lose
Sozo World Fortress Stadium (Map p98; Fortress perspective.
Stadium, cnr The Mall & Allama Iqbal Rd, Cantonment)
This complex contains a good cinema that often shows CDs & DVDs
English-language films. If you’re looking for Pakistani-inspired fusion
music, some recommended CDs include Night
Spectator Sports Songs (volume 13; Rs 120) featuring the great
Lahore is a prime place to catch a sporting (late) Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan. For something
event – to ascertain what’s on where and when, different, some stores also have copies of his
check out local newspapers and contact the work remixed by Massive Attack.
organisations listed below. Fortress Stadium (Map p98; cnr The Mall & Allama Iqbal
Rd, Cantonment) Has some excellent music shops
CRICKET selling cheap (by Western standards) CDs and
Fortress Stadium (Map p98; %9220681; cnr The Mall DVDs. Here you’ll find Lahore’s widest range
& Allama Iqbal Rd, Cantonment) The city’s second-most of English-language music and movies, as well
popular cricket venue. as a healthy collection of Pakistani and Indian
Gymkhana Club (Map p98; %5756690; Upper Mall) titles. CDs/DVDs cost about Rs 100/120 each
This club sometimes hosts minor domestic cricket matches. (no bargaining here).
Iqbal Park (Map p100) Domestic cricket matches are Another top spot to find CDs and DVDs
occasionally played here. (although with fewer English-language choices
lonelyplanet.com L A H O R E • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 117

than Fortress Stadium) is on Hall Rd (Map to sift through kitsch knick-knacks to find
p100), off The Mall, which has scores of music the quality stuff.
outlets. Rafi Plaza (Map p100) is a good place
to start. CDs and DVDs are at least Rs 10 to Musical Instruments
Rs 20 cheaper than those at Fortress Stadium, Close to the Lahore Fort, Langay Bazaar (Map
but only if you bargain hard, as foreigners are p100; Old City) is the area to find musical instru-
invariably quoted higher prices. ments. Competition between shops is high,
so it’s worth looking around and bargaining
Clothing & Footwear hard to bag the best deal. One well-stocked
Tailors in the Old City will stitch you a shal- shop is Millat Music Palace, which sells dhols
war kameez for around Rs 200 to Rs 250 (not (traditional large Punjabi drums; Rs 6000 to
including material). Other tailors in Lahore Rs 10,000) and dholkis (smaller drums crafted
will also make to order, but they’re usually a from wood and goatskin; Rs 1200 to Rs 2000),
little more expensive. tablas (twin drums; Rs 3000 to Rs 5000), har-

PUNJAB
Landa Bazaar (Map p100; Old City) Opposite Delhi moniums (Rs 6000 to Rs 25,000; the most ex-
Gate, this bazaar sells decent secondhand pensive are made in Germany) and sitars (Rs
clothing and shoes. Haggle hard. 8000 to Rs 20,000; the more-expensive ones
Panorama (Map p100; 48 The Mall) Worth visiting have fine bone inlay work), as well as some
if you’re in the market for a leather jacket. This violins (Rs 3000 to Rs 6500) and string guitars
arcade also has lots of men’s clothing shops. (Rs 2000 to Rs 12,000; the most expensive are
Inside Taksali Gate is Moti Bazaar (Map p100; Old Yamaha instruments).
City) that’s the best place to buy cheap, good-
quality chappals (sandals). Expect to pay Perfume
upwards of Rs 400 a pair. Almadina Perfume Center (Map p98; The Mall) Has a
gleaming display of gorgeous locally made
Electrical Goods & Repairs perfumes. Prices start at Rs 60. Whoever
If you need to repair or sell your laptop or coined the fragrance names was certainly
personal stereo, there are a number of repu- thinking outside the square – among the
table places on Hall Road (Map p100), located dreamy-sounding titles like ‘Secret Intention’
off The Mall, and at the Hafeez Centre (Map p98; and ‘Hypnotic Poison’ are the whacky ‘Cigar’,
Gulberg Main Blvd). Shop around and bargain hard ‘Madness’ and ‘Scarf’ labels…go figure.
to bag the best deal.
Hall Rd is worth visiting if you’re in the GETTING THERE & AWAY
market for any other electronic equipment – Lahore is Pakistan’s gateway to India – for
or even if you just want to see how many TVs, details see p382, and for border crossing
hi-fi systems, satellite dishes, mobile phones information see p387.
and iPods can be crammed into one street.
The best place in Lahore – indeed, one of Air
the best in Pakistan – to repair, sell or buy a Lahore’s well-kept Allama Iqbal International
camera (new or secondhand) is along Nisbet Airport (%9211604) contains both the domes-
Road (Map p100), about 1km north of The Mall tic and international terminals. Facilities at
and dubbed ‘Camera Street’ by locals. You’ll the airport include two tourist offices, a rail-
find a plethora of outlets, but be prepared to way reservation office and money-changing
shop around and haggle hard to nail a winning counters.
deal. It helps not to appear too eager. Check-in for domestic flights is one hour
prior to departure. It’s wise to book domes-
Handicrafts tic tickets at least three days in advance, as
Lahore isn’t as great a handicrafts centre as flights can unexpectedly fill up at the last
you’d expect it to be – not the ideal place to minute. The airport can be prone to fog in
stockpile birthday gifts for loved ones back December and January, sometimes disrupting
home. The upmarket hotels often have quality airline schedules.
(but rather expensive) pieces in their flashy For flight/air cargo inquiries call %114
shopping arcades. or %9220786.
Anarkali and the Old City are perhaps the PIA (Map p100; %111786786; PIA Bldg, Egerton Rd) has
best places to hunt for souvenirs. You’ll have domestic services from Lahore to Bahawalpur
 118 L A H O R E • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com

(Rs 4250, one hour 20 minutes), Islamabad places where long-distance buses operated: the
(Rs 4725, 50 minutes), Karachi (Rs 6550, main bus stand (Lariadda) and the Sherakot
1¾ hours), Multan (Rs 4400, one hour 20 bus stands (Bund Rd). Although all services
minutes), Peshawar (Rs 4990, one hour 25 depart from the slightly more conveniently
minutes), Quetta (Rs 4775, one hour 25 min- located main bus stand, this place is chaotic,
utes), Rahim Yar Khan (Rs 5100, one hour dusty and swarming with people. You’ll en-
20 minutes) and Sukkur (Rs 6325, one hour counter far less hype if you catch one of the
20 minutes). buses that leave from the Sherakot terminals on
Shaheen Air International (Map p100; %111808080; Bund Rd (tickets cost the same at both places).
www.shaheenair.com; Ali Complex, Empress Rd) flies only An autorickshaw from The Mall to Sherakot
to Karachi; there’s a twice daily service costs about Rs 150, or you can catch bus 1 (Rs
(Rs 6045). 10/15 for standard/air-con) from The Mall (first
Airblue (Map p98; %111247258; www.airblue.com; ask the driver if the bus goes to Sherakot, as
Asad Centre 1-E, Main Blvd, Gulberg II) has three daily not all do).
PUNJAB

flights to Karachi only (Rs 7998). For long-haul trips a growing number of
private companies offer comfortable air-con
AIRLINE OFFICES buses; most take advance bookings, how-
International carriers servicing Lahore are ever, it is still worth going to the bus stand
prone to change – to get the latest details a few days before you want to travel to se-
consult your travel agent or surf the net. cure your ticket. Companies include New
International airline offices in Lahore include Khan Road Runners (%7728355), which services
the following: various destinations including Dera Ghazi
Air Canada (Map p100; %6305229; Ali Complex, Khan (Rs 300, seven hours), Karachi (Rs
Empress Rd) 920, 22 hours), Multan (Rs 180, five hours),
Air France (Map p100; %6360930; Wapda House, The Peshawar (Rs 380, six hours) and Rawalpindi
Mall) (Rs 320, five hours). Other reputable com-
British Airways (Map p100; %6300701; Transport panies include Skyways (%7470242) and Niazi
House, Egerton Rd) Express (%740188).
Cathay Pacific Airways (Map p100; %6369558; Ali The most luxurious buses are operated
Complex, Empress Rd) by Daewoo (Map p98; %111007008; 231 Ferozpur Rd)
Emirates (Map p98; %6676522; 1-2 Cantonment Com- near Kalma Chowk. Daewoo has state-of-
mercial Complex, Abid Majid Rd) the-art vehicles and the fare includes a light
Gulf Air (Map p98; %5716405; Eden Heights Plaza, meal (an autorickshaw from The Mall to the
Jail Rd) Daewoo terminal should cost Rs 100). To
Indian Airlines (Map p100; %6360014; Ambassador Rawalpindi, Daewoo offers two bus types:
Centre, Davis Rd) luxury (Rs 450, 4½ hours) and super-luxury
Kenya Airways (Map p100; %6312138; Ali Complex, (Rs 530, 4½ hours) – the latter has more leg
Empress Rd) space, a footrest and more comfortable seats.
KLM – Royal Dutch Airlines (Map p100; %6361510; Other destinations serviced by Daewoo in-
Wapda House, The Mall) clude Multan (Rs 400, 5¼ hours), Bahawalpur
Lufthansa Airlines (Map p100; %6315105; Avari (Rs 470, 6¾ hours) and Peshawar (Rs 570,
Hotel, The Mall) 6½ hours).
Malaysian Airlines (Map p100; %6305100; 2nd fl, PIA
Bldg, Egerton Rd) Train
PIA (Map p100; %111786786; PIA Bldg, Egerton Rd) All trains stop at the Lahore City Railway
Singapore Airlines (Map p100; %6307418; Ali Station, also known as Lahore Junction. Porters
Complex, Empress Rd) will lug your load for Rs 25 to Rs 50 (depend-
Thai Airways (Map p100; %6312724; Transport House, ing on how much baggage you have).
Egerton Rd) Next door to the Ambassador Hotel. Timetables and fares are subject to constant
alterations so there are likely to be changes
Bus during the life of this book. To double-check,
During research there were rumours that the call railway inquiries on %117, get a copy of
main bus stand was going to be renovated the twice-yearly updated Pakistan Railways
or shifted, so it’s worth double-checking its Time & Fare Table (Rs 25), which is usually
status. At the time of writing there were two available at major train stations as well as at
lonelyplanet.com L A H O R E • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 119

Ferozson’s bookshop (see p97), or log on to part). At Rs 18 per kilometre they are a tad
www.pakr ail.com. more expensive than regular taxis but cer-
It’s highly advisable to buy a ticket at least tainly a headache-free option.
a few days before your intended departure to Top-end hotels usually have a complimen-
improve your chances of securing a seat on tary shuttle bus for guests.
your preferred train. Tickets are sold at the
Railways Headquarters reservation office (Map p100; Bus & Minibus
Empress Rd; h8am-7.30pm Sun-Thu & Sat, 8am-12.30pm & Crowded buses and minibuses run almost
2.30-7.30pm Fri) about 1.5km south of the main everywhere every few minutes from stands
train station. opposite the Lahore City Railway Station. The
Don’t forget to avail yourself of the 25% usual fare is Rs 6 to Rs 10.
concession for foreign tourists and, if ap- Some useful routes are as follows: minibus
plicable, the generous 50% concession for 43 (marked on Map p98) runs from opposite
foreign students. If you intend travelling by the main train station to Charing Cross and

PUNJAB
train in other parts of Pakistan it’s wise to Gulberg. Bus 12 runs from the main train sta-
collect your concession letter in Lahore – it tion to Shalimar Gardens. Bus 3 travels from
can be a hassle getting it elsewhere. To get the main train station to The Mall and Krishan
this concession, take your passport and stu- Nagar. Bus 15 runs from the main train station
dent card (if applicable) to the commercial to the airport, while minibus 42 goes from the
department of Railways Headquarters (Map p100; main train station to Sherakot (from where
Empress Rd; h8am-3pm). This office can be tough you can catch private long-distance buses).
to find – if you get lost, ask someone to point Minibuses 37 and 86 ply the route from the
you in the direction of the ‘Chief Commercial main train station to the main bus stand and
Manager – Passenger’. Lahore Fort.
If you’re experiencing any difficulties book- From The Mall, bus 1 travels from Regal
ing a ticket or getting a concession letter, see Chowk to the airport and Sherakot. Bus 3 goes
the manager of the public relations office in to the main train station (from where other
the Railways Headquarters building. buses travel to the Wagah border).

FREIGHTING A VEHICLE Car

If you’ve got your own wheels and are en route You should be able to wangle a cheaper deal if
to Iran via Quetta (but don’t wish to drive to you hire a car for at least several days.
Quetta) it’s possible to freight your vehicle. International Tours (Map p100; %6301185; rent
The cost is Rs 920/12,020 per motorcycle/car. [email protected]; 17-A Lawrence Rd) rents out a car
This may be a judicious option if authorities with driver for Rs 4000 per day or Rs 18 per
deem private vehicle travel unsafe (eg if there kilometre.
are tribal tensions in Balochistan) at the time If you’re brave enough to self-drive, all the
of your visit. top-end hotels have rental car counters includ-
ing Avis (%111669669) and Hertz (%111365247).
GETTING AROUND Rates start at Rs 100 per hour plus Rs 10 per
To/From the Airport kilometre and there’s a minimum charge of
The cheapest way to travel between The Mall two hours.
and airport is by Eastbound bus 1 (which
runs frequently each day until about 9pm). Taxi & Autorickshaw
The fare is Rs 18. Taxis and autorickshaws congregate at vari-
A taxi between The Mall and the airport ous places including the main train station
will set you back about Rs 600; an autorick- and next to Regal Cinema (The Mall). They
shaw is half that price. can also be hailed from the street. Motorcycle
If you are completely frazzled after a long rickshaws work the route between the
international flight and don’t have the stamina main train station and Iqbal Park along
to haggle over taxi fares, go to the airport Circular Rd.
counter of City Radio Cabs (%111111129), a 24- To hire a taxi by the hour is around Rs 300.
hour private company that uses comfortable, The standard rate for a five-minute autorick-
air-con cars and reliable drivers (your details shaw journey is about Rs 40. Always negotiate
are logged onto a computer before you de- a fare before zooming off.
 120 A R O U N D L A H O R E • • W a g a h lonelyplanet.com

AROUND LAHORE there take bus 4 (Rs 12, about one hour) to
the border – but before boarding bus 4 con-
firm with the driver that it goes to the Wagah
WAGAH border, as not all do.
The border between Pakistan and India is A taxi from The Mall to the border costs
located 30km east of Lahore at Wagah. For about Rs 800 (a return journey including one
important border-crossing information hour’s waiting time is around Rs 2000). The
see p386. TDCP conducts tours to the border-closing
Whether or not you’re going to India it’s ceremony (see p110).
worth making a special trip to the border to
watch the amazing closing-of-the-border HIRAN MINAR
(flag-lowering) ceremony that takes place each This secluded former Mughal hunting base,
day. If you’ve got time, see it from both sides of 48km northwest of Lahore, offers an escape
the fence, as the objective of each side’s soldiers from the city crowds as it did for the Mughal
PUNJAB

is to out-march, out-salute and out-shout each court over 350 years ago. For foreigners the
other (if you’re crossing the border you’ll only entrance fee is Rs 200.
get to see it from the Indian side). The complex consists of a large water tank
If you’ve got any questions once at the with a three-storey baradari in the mid-
Wagah border, don’t hesitate to ask Mr Latif, dle, from where Jehangir would view his
the friendly owner of the Latif Old Book hiran (deer).
Shop. For more information about facilities Nearby Sheikhupura has a Mughal fort with
at Wagah see p386. links to Sikh maharani (queen) Rani Nakayan.
The entrance fee has been cranked up for
Getting There & Away foreigners to Rs 200. From Lahore, catch a
To get to the Wagah border by bus from Regal bus to Sheikhupura (Rs 32, one hour). From
Chowk (The Mall) catch bus 3 (Rs 4, about 20 there, get a bus or minibus to Hiran Minar
minutes) to the main train station and from (Rs 8, 20 minutes).

BRAVADO AT THE BORDER

The wonderfully outlandish closing-of-the-border ceremony has been performed daily since it
was first enacted (and presumably choreographed) in 1948, not too long after Partition. This
flag-lowering, gate-closing spectacle is a curious fusion of orderly colonial-style pomp, comical
Monty Pythonesque moves and dead serious national rivalry. There’s copious goose-stepping,
snorting, stomping and killer glares that rouses thunderous applause from the audience, who
zealously egg on their soldiers by repeatedly chanting ‘Pakistan zindabad!’ (Long live Pakistan!).
So popular is this event that grandstands have been specially constructed to accommodate the
patriotic throngs that flock here.
After abundant displays of machismo from the brawny Pakistani soldiers – who are, inciden-
tally, stunningly attired in jet-black uniforms that include turbans topped with striking fantails –
the military theatre rolls on, as stony-faced commanding officers of both countries shake hands
and salute (blink and you’ll miss it). The flags are simultaneously lowered and folded and the
gates slammed shut. Meanwhile, the crowd exuberantly cheers on; tape-recorded national
anthems are sometimes played by both countries; and members of the departing audience
lavish praise on the soldiers who have done them proud.
The border-closing ceremony takes place around an hour before sunset. In winter it’s at
about 4pm to 4.30pm and in summer between 6pm and 6.30pm (for exact timings phone
%6582611). The ceremony lasts between 20 and 30 minutes. There are no fixed times, so to
make sure you don’t turn up halfway through – or worse still, miss it altogether – ensure you
arrive at least 30 minutes before the ceremony begins. This will also give you the opportunity
to watch the crowds getting pumped up for the event. On the Pakistani side there is separate-
sex seating and tourists are usually ushered to the front seats. There’s an Rs 10 admission fee
and soldiers are happy to pose for photos.
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • B a h a w a l p u r 121

NANKANA numerous festivals in the area – and try to

In this small town, about 75km southwest of avoid the oppressive summer heat.
Lahore, is the Gurdwara Janamasthan Nankana
Sahib, revered by Sikhs as one of their holiest BAHAWALPUR
sites. This is where Sikhism’s founder, Guru %062 / pop 403,408
Nanak, was born in 1469. Modest in size and a world away from the rat
Each November Sikhs from around the race, Bahawalpur has limited tourist sights
world gather for a three-day festival, Nanak but is a good jumping-off point to nearby
Jayanthi (Guru Nanak’s birthday), which attractions such as Uch Sharif.
includes prayer readings and processions. Located about 95km south of Multan, there
Before entering the gurdwara, men and has been a settlement here for thousands of
women are both required to cover their heads years, but the present town traces its name
and remove their shoes. Be aware that tobacco and origins to 1748 when it was made capital
of the newly founded state of Bahawalpur.

PUNJAB
is strictly prohibited in the temple. There are
pilgrims’ lodgings (for a donation) on site. This state was headed by Nawab Bahawal
Daily direct buses travel from Lahore to Khan Abbasi I, of a dynasty claiming de-
Nankana (Rs 52, two hours). scent from the Prophet Mohammed’s uncle,
Abbas. The state was ruled by the Abbasi
SHARAKPUR SHARIF nawabs with little outside interference until
This little town, 35km from Lahore on the the 20th century and was only merged with
Jaranwala Rd, is en route to Nankana. Its old Pakistan by treaty in 1954, when it became
city oozes old-world charm, making it an at- Bahawalpur Division.
mospheric place to stretch your legs. The people of the region have had long as-
It’s a good spot to buy traditional hand- sociations with Sufism and pirs (holy men),
made shoes (around Rs 500) and taste the whose shrines are often maintained by their
town’s legendary gulab jamuns (deep-fried families in perpetuity.
dough balls soaked in sweet syrup). The Most people in this district speak Saraiki,
owner of the Regale Internet Inn has es- which is a variant of Punjabi.
tablished Malik Garden, consisting of two
rooms and two dorm rooms. Bamboo huts for Information
guests are being planned for the lush fruit or- MEDICAL SERVICES
chard. Bookings can be made through Regale Victoria Hospital (%9250411; Circular Rd) South of
Internet Inn (p111). Farid Gate, this hospital was built in 1906 and remains the
town’s main infirmary.
CHANGA MANGA WILDLIFE RESERVE
Established in 1860, covering about 5000 MONEY
hectares and said to be one of the oldest The following places change major cur-
hand-planted forests in the world, peaceful rency notes and travellers cheques. The
Changa Manga is 70km from Lahore on the times provided here are specifically for
road to Multan. Malik from Regale Internet foreign exchange.
Inn (p111) may be able to arrange bamboo- Habib Bank (Farid Gate; h9am-1.30pm Mon-Thu,
hut accommodation here, however, travel to 9am-12.30pm Fri & Sat) Also has a 24-hour ATM.
the area is sometimes difficult due to Pakistani Khan Moneychanger (1st fl, Pak Continental Hotel,
military exercises that take place en route to Bobby Plaza; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon
the reserve. There are daily buses from Lahore Fri) This private authorised moneychanger only deals with
to this reserve (Rs 40, 2½ to three hours). major international currencies (not travellers cheques).
National Bank (Farid Gate; h9am-1.30pm Mon-Thu,
9am-12.30pm Fri & Sat)
SOUTHERN PUNJAB Western Union (%9250318; main post office;
h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9-11am Fri) For
To the south of Lahore, the sublime shrines speedy international money transfer.
and tombs of Multan and Uch Sharif, ancient
forts and the deserts of Cholistan are some of POST
the experiences that await. Travellers should The main post office (GPO) is about half a
time their visit to coincide with one of the kilometre east of Farid Gate.
 122 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • B a h a w a l p u r lonelyplanet.com

BAHAWALPUR 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles

INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING

Habib Bank........................................1 C3 Bahawalpur Museum..........................7 C3 Hotel Abaseen............................15 B3
Khan Moneychanger......................(see 19) Bobby Plaza...................................(see 19) JB Palace Hotel...........................16 B3
Main Post Office (GPO).....................2 C3 Central Library...................................8 C3 Luxury Hotel..............................17 B3
National Bank.....................................3 C3 Dubai Palace......................................9 A4 New Bahawalpur Hotel...............18 B3
Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation Durbar Hall......................................10 D3 PTDC Motel...............................(see 4)
(PTDC)...........................................4 D3 Gulzar Mahal...................................11 D3 Pak Continental Hotel................19 C3
UBL....................................................5 C3 Jami Masjid al Sadiq.........................12 B3 Welcome Guest House.............. 20 A4
Victoria Hospital.................................6 C3 Nur Mahal........................................13 B4
Western Union.................................(see 2) Zoo..................................................14 C2 EATING
To Humera Hotel (500m);
Disneyland Sweets......................21 B3
New Holiday Inn & 27
Pan Pizza...................................22 A2
Restaurant (500m); Roshandas Panda Chinese Restaurant..........23 A3
Multan (95km) R iv
er Gardens Tandoori Restaurant................(see 16)
Rd
Zanzibar 4 Seasons Restaurant...24 A3
PUNJAB

SHOPPING
Zoo Tulsi Das Pakistan Handicrafts...................25 C3
Entrance Gardens
Multan
Gate 14 TRANSPORT

Stad
To Train Station (400m); Coasters to Multan & Rahim Yar

ium R
Al-Kausar (400m) Bazaar Khan......................................26 B3
Area S
22 Mori E Main Bus Stand..........................27 B2
Co

Rd
ali
d
Gate l le PIA.............................................
W 28 B3
ge
Rd Wagons to Ahmadpur East (for Dera

gi
Bohar

an
23 Ra Gate 5
Nawab Sahib & Uch Sharif)....29 B3
Fateh Khan Baza

Jh
ilw
a
a n Rd

24 y Farid
Rd

gi
Rd
Gate 3
ali

an
12

Jh
r
Bazaa W
ult

Shikarpuri
S hah i hool Rd University
Girls' Sc
M

Suraiki Gate 1 Chowk 11

Club Rd
25 2
e

Chowk Giri Ganj Bazaar

Rd
r i Ga t

Rd

Eidgah Mosque 29 19 10
ar

18
Circular
dpu

16 Bagh
26 dad To Lal Suhanra
ma

15 Rai
21 17 8 lwa National Park
Muh

Ah

yR (35km)

Rd
Gulzar- Derawari 7 4 d
Ahmadpuri Gate Kucheri
amm

I-Sadiq Fowara
ar
Chowk Gate Chowk Canal
6 rb
Colony
28
Da
ad B

Yazman
Model Chowk
CMH
in

Town 20 Chowk
Qas

Officers'
im

Colony Medical
Rd

Colony
Maluk Shah Rd

Nur
9 Mahal
Gate

Rd Mohammadiya
Yazm

w ab Sadiq Colony
Na
an R

ra Colony
De Military
d

To Ahmadpur East (40km) Area To Airport (6km);

(for Dera Nawab Sahib
& Uch Sharif) Nur Mahal 13 Yazman (40km);
Gardens Channan Pir (65km)

TOURIST INFORMATION Built in 1885 in Italian style, Nur Mahal (Nur

Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation Mahal Rd) was the grandest of the Abbasis’ resi-
(PTDC; %9250168; PTDC Motel compound, Club Rd; dences and now houses some of their antiqui-
h9am-1pm & 2-4.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri) ties. Another palace is the 1902 Gulzar Mahal,
Apart from answering tourists’ queries, this groovy bullet- which is off Darbar Rd. Next door is Durbar
shaped office sells a collection of books and postcards Hall, once used as the royal court of audience.
and also has free brochures and maps of Bahawalpur and Also off limits to the public, Dubai Palace
beyond. It can arrange excursions to see traditional clay (Dera Nawab Rd) belongs to the Amir of Dubai,
potters ply their ancient craft. who sometimes uses it as his base for winter
falconry sorties into Cholistan. Rumour has
Sights it that the amir has thrown lavish parties here
PALACES for 500 guests at one time.
The palaces of the former rulers are now ‘rented’
out to the army by the Abbasis, and military JAMI MASJID AL SADIQ
permission is required to visit them. However, This beautiful mosque, built just before
even Abbasi princes are refused admission – Partition, is in the central main bazaar area
you’d be extremely lucky to gain entry. and is Bahawalpur’s major Friday mosque.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • B a h a w a l p u r 123

ZOO belt dry. Most can be a bit creepy for single

Established in 1942, this zoo (%9255334; Stadium women who are perhaps better off opting for
Rd; admission Rs 6; h8am-30 min before sunset) would a midrange hotel in this town.
have to be one of the best kept in Pakistan. New Bahawalpur Hotel (%2876191; Khan Complex,
It houses more than 700 different animal Shehzadi Chowk, Ahmadpuri Gate Rd; s/d Rs 200/300, s/d with
species including leopard, lion, tiger, spotted air-con Rs 900/1100) The rooms here are decidedly
deer, monkey, Siberian crane, golden pheas- dull but still score higher marks than many
ant, bear, python and crocodile. There’s also other cheapies.
a museum on-site with pinboards of dead JB Palace Hotel (% 2887120; Circular Rd; s/d
butterflies, some dusty stuffed birds, a fright- Rs 400/600, s/d with air-con Rs 1000/1200) Near Fowara
ened-looking baby deer and more. Other Chowk, this is also one of Bahawalpur’s bet-
attractions include a fish aquarium, gift shop ter choices despite having simple, somewhat
and kiosk. dank rooms.
Hotel Abaseen (%2877592; Circular Rd; s/d Rs 500/700,

PUNJAB
BAHAWALPUR MUSEUM s/d with air-con Rs 1000/1200) Situated near Fowara
Displaying items ranging from calligraphy Chowk, the Abaseen has small, morose rooms.
to artefacts from Moenjodaro, Cholistan and On the plus side, the staff are more welcoming
Harappa, Bahawalpur Museum (%9250000; ad- than at many other cheap hotels.
mission Rs 10; h8am-4pm Sun-Thu, 8am-noon Fri), less
than 1km southeast of Farid Gate, is divided MIDRANGE
into a Pakistan Movement Gallery of pho- Midrange hotels are loads better than their
tos; an Islamic Arts Gallery of arms, textiles, budget brothers, however, some room rates
graphic arts and metalware; an Archaeological are a little steep for what you (don’t) get. All
Gallery; a Coins & Medals Gallery with items of the following places add a 23% tax (not
minted by the former state of Bahawalpur; included here).
an Ethnological Gallery with handicrafts Humera Hotel (%2884550; Multan Rd; s/d Rs 500/600,
from Cholistan and Bahawalpur; a Fabrics s/d with air-con Rs 1500/1600) An option if you have
Gallery with costumes from the region; and to stay in the main bus-stand area, the Humera
a Manuscripts & Calligraphy Gallery. has an institutional personality but is other-
wise OK. Located near Satluj Bridge.
CENTRAL LIBRARY Luxury Hotel (%2888401; s/d 800/1000, s/d with air-
Next door to the Bahawalpur Museum, this con 1200/1400) Overlooking Fowara Chowk, this
fine building houses a well-stocked library is by far the best midrange hotel in town. The
(%89250211; h8am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8am- rooms are well maintained, the staff is gra-
noon Fri). The foundation stone was laid by the cious (solo female travellers won’t be frowned
then viceroy, Sir Rufus Daniel Isaacs, in 1924. upon) and there’s a decent room-service
The garden is very restful. menu. On top of that, the tariff is lower than
at most other hotels.
Sleeping Welcome Guest House (%2887882; 29A Model Town
Bahawalpur isn’t starved of budget and mid- A; r Rs 1400) A recommended option if you’re
range hotels, however, there’s a lack of good- seeking a tranquil residential locale and don’t
value options. Solo women aren’t warmly mind staying away from the centre. This un-
welcomed by all places (especially budget), pretentious guesthouse offers comfortable
presumably because they’re an oddity here. rooms (V5 is a favourite) and meals are avail-
There are no top-end hotels, so if you’re seek- able with advance notice. Its ‘home away from
ing luxury go to Multan. home’ ambience makes it especially good
Noise pollution can be diabolical, even in for long-stayers.
what staff optimistically label ‘quiet’ rooms – Pak Continental Hotel (%2876792; Bobby Plaza,
keep earplugs by your bedside. Circular Rd; s/d incl breakfast Rs 2460/3070; a) This is an
upbeat place with pleasing rooms – if you scowl
BUDGET at the tariff, the obliging staff are likely to turn
Bahawalpur’s budget choices won’t exactly your frown upside down by slashing prices.
rock your world. Many have shoebox-like Internet access is available at Rs 30 an hour.
rooms, strange odours and brusque staff, but Bobby’s Restaurant, located in the complex,
on the bright side, they won’t suck your money- serves up Continental and Pakistani fare.
 124 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • B a h a w a l p u r lonelyplanet.com

PTDC Motel (%9250170; Club Rd; s/d Rs 2484/3105; pottery). Items to look out for include shoes
a) Situated in a quiet pocket of Bahawalpur, known as khussas (woven with gold and
the PTDC has modern cottage-style accom- silver thread); handwoven village carpets;
modation set around a leafy garden. Although brocades; painted terracotta pottery; brass-
the rooms are pleasant enough, they should ware; and embroidered skirts and material.
really be more luxurious at this price. A 20% Tassled felt caps (similar to soft Turkish
discount may be possible so it pays to ask. fezzes) can usually be found at hat shops
in the bazaar.
Eating The otherwise disappointing Pakistan
Cheap eats can be found at the little stalls Handicrafts shop, opposite Farid Gate, some-
dotted around Farid and Ahmadpuri Gates. times has some standout handicrafts from
For a vitamin C top-up there are places just Cholistan at affordable prices. Cholistani
inside Farid Gate that squeeze fresh juice for handicrafts include chungirs (bread plates
made from date palm leaves), rillis (all-purpose
PUNJAB

around Rs 10.
Most of the following listings have a cotton patchwork blankets), falasis (weavings
15% tax tacked onto menu prices (not of camel hair and cotton used as carpets, wall
included here). hangings etc), embroidered dupattas (long
Disneyland Sweets (Fowara Chowk; per ice-cream cone scarves), kurtas (long shirts with either short
Rs 13-25; hearly morning-late night) The place for an or no collars) and khalatis (ladies’ embroi-
invigorating cool cone – the pistachio (Rs 18) dered purses).
goes down particularly well.
Tandoori Restaurant (%2881758; Circular Rd; mains Getting There & Away
Rs 60-240; hlunch & dinner) Next door to JB Palace AIR
Hotel, this reasonably good restaurant offers PIA (%9255012; Fowara Chowk; h8.30am-4pm) has
tandoor (clay oven) creations such as chicken five flights a week to Lahore (Rs 4700) and
shashlik (kebab; Rs 180) and fish tikka (spiced, Karachi (Rs 4550).
marinated fish chunks; Rs 240).
Panda Chinese Restaurant (%2880885; Railway Rd; BUS & MINIBUS
mains Rs 150-430; hlunch & dinner; a) Comfortably Long-distance services leave from the col-
appointed, this is the place for wok-tossed lective chaos known as the main bus stand at
favourites such as Sichuan beef (Rs 180). the northern edge of town. There are regular
However, like most Chinese restaurants on services to Islamabad (Rs 430, 8½ hours),
the subcontinent, the food here is more spice- Multan (Rs 110, 1½ hours), Sahiwal (Rs 200,
infused than usual, catering to local tastes. four hours) and elsewhere. Private companies
Zanzibar 4 Seasons Restaurant (Muhammad Bin such as New Khan Rd Runners (among other
Qasim Rd; mains Rs 170-760; hlunch & dinner; a) reputable outfits such as Skyways and Niazi
With an attractive interior and good food, Express) have more-comfortable services to
this is Bahawalpur’s finest restaurant. There Lahore (Rs 330, eight hours via Multan and
are Pakistani, Continental, Chinese and even Sahiwal). These companies have offices at the
a few Mexican dishes. Recommendations in- main bus stand. Coasters to Multan (Rs 80)
clude the roast beef burgers (Rs 170), jumbo and Rahim Yar Khan (Rs 1700) leave from
garlic prawns (Rs 570) and honey pepper Ahmadpuri Gate.
chicken (Rs 270). If your tummy is twisting, The more comfortable and reliable Daewoo
try a cup of soothing green tea (Rs 25). (%11007008) has established itself on the out-
Pan Pizza (%2877140; 75 Welcome Gate, Railway skirts of town (opposite Sadiq Public School,
Rd; small/medium/large pizza Rs 385/625/825; hlunch near NLC, Dera Nawab Sahib Rd) and runs
& dinner; a) Opposite Panda, Pan does tasty regularly to Lahore (Rs 470), Rawalpindi (Rs
pizzas as well as a limited variety of burgers 680) and Multan (Rs 130).
and Chinese fare. The delicious hot and spicy
pizza does, as the name suggests, leave your TRAIN
taste buds tingling. From Bahawalpur, travelling by bus is usually
quicker and entails less palaver than going
Shopping by train. For those still interested, almost
The Bahawalpur region is known for its all long-distance trains pass through town,
shoes and handicrafts (especially earthen however, the small station can only secure
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • L a l S u h a n r a N a t i o n a l Pa r k 125

reservations on a few services (so you may CHOLISTAN

not get your preferred train). It is highly An extension of Rajasthan’s Thar Desert, the
recommended to go to the Bahawalpur train largest desert on the Indian subcontinent,
station several days in advance to book. Cholistan covers over 20,000 sq km of south-
east Pakistani Punjab and at its nearest point
Getting Around is some 30km from Bahawalpur. At one time
Passenger Suzukis and qinjis (passenger au- it was a fertile area watered by the Hakra
torickshaws) loop around Circular Rd, con- River – long since dry – which flowed to the
necting the bus and train stations for a few Arabian Sea.
rupees. An autorickshaw from the train sta- At least 400 settlements along its banks
tion to the centre costs around Rs 60. To hire were continuously inhabited from the 4th
an autorickshaw for a half/full day should millennium BC, long before the Indus Valley
cost about Rs 600/1000. Bahawalpur was once civilisation, to the beginning of the Islamic
famous for its bicycle rickshaws but these were

PUNJAB
era. The remains of some 40 forts from the
phased out in 1994. early days of the caliphate cross the desert like
a string of pearls.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT In reference to the nomadic habits of its
To travel from the airport to the town people, the region’s name derives from cholna,
centre should cost around Rs 200/400 by meaning ‘moving’; to the locals, however,
autorickshaw/taxi. it’s known as Rohi. The population of over
100,000 spend their lives in constant search
LAL SUHANRA NATIONAL PARK for pasture and water. The dress and handi-
Located 35km east of Bahawalpur and cov- crafts of Cholistan – examples of which can be
ering a natural lake and a large man-made bought in Bahawalpur – are unique.
forest, this 51,588-hectare park (admission Rs 25; Except after the early autumn rains,
hsunrise-sunset) is a pleasant place to relax. when some vegetation blooms, Cholistan
Inside the main entrance, past the TDCP is a sandy wasteland with clumps of hardy
Motel and park office, is a children’s park with shrubs passing for oases. These give shelter
a small zoo containing local wildlife such as to many species of wildlife including rat-
imperial sandgrouse, partridge, pheasant, catcher, sparrowhawk, black buck, desert
rhesus monkeys, ciracal and civet cats, desert fox, Houbara bustard, imperial sandgrouse
fox and a pair of rhinos. Animal species and partridge.
found wild in the park include boar, hare, If you’d like to spend a night in the
jackal, mongoose, desert fox, porcupine, lark, desert you must first obtain a permit from
owl, hawk and nilgai (antelope). the Bahawalpur District Coordination
The PTDC (see p122) can arrange tours to Officer (DCO); apply through the PTDC in
this park (prices on application). Bahawalpur (see p122), which can also arrange
desert safaris.
Sleeping & Eating
TDCP Motel (%062-871144; r Rs 1100) Inside the Tours
gates, this motel has quiet gardens and a good Most safaris go between Channan Pir and
restaurant. If you’re on your own they may Derawar Fort. Dingarh Fort is accessible
take Rs 250 off the room rate. The TDCP also from Yazman but visits to Mojgarh, Marot
has a camping ground (camp sites Rs 300). and Mirgarh Forts require considerably
There are several government resthouses (r Rs more planning.
900) in the area but these are subject to avail- To explore much beyond Derawar Fort
ability – inquire at the PTDC office (see p122) you’ll need a 4WD or camel and a guide who
in Bahawalpur. knows the area intimately. Between October
and March the PTDC can organise camel
Getting There & Away tours, given at least three days’ notice. A
Catch one of the buses (Rs 25, 30 minutes) camel with ‘driver’ costs around Rs 750 per
from Bahawalpur’s main bus stand, which go day and an English-speaking guide is at least
as far as Lal Suhanra village. From there you’ll another Rs 750 per day. Local musicians and
have to take an autorickshaw to the park (Rs dancers can also be arranged. Bear in mind
50), or you could walk (about 3km). that a camel only covers about 12km to 15km
 126 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • B h o n g M o s q u e lonelyplanet.com

a day and is only worth considering for the The fort remains the property of the Abbasi
novelty factor. family and you must apply to the Bahawalpur
To get further you’ll require a jeep, avail- PTDC (see p122) to request a permit from
able from the PTDC (booked at least a day Prince Salahuddin or Prince Falhouddin
ahead), costing Rs 4000 to Rs 6000 per day Abbasi on your behalf – allow at least a week
(depending on jeep quality). You’ll need for this (you’re charged for the phone calls to
adequate food and water supplies. Private arrange the permit).
companies like Travel Walji’s also run ex-
pensive but professionally run package tours, GETTING THERE & AWAY
however, these need to be prearranged in To get to Derawar Fort take a bus to Dera
Lahore or Islamabad. Nawab (Rs 35, one hour) and from there
hire a minivan (seating six) at Abbasi Chowk
Dera Nawab Sahib (Dera Nawab) (Rs 60, two hours). A taxi from Bahawalpur
PUNJAB

Seat of the Abbasi family, the tiny town costs about Rs 4000 for the day (including
of Dera Nawab is the usual gateway to waiting time).
Cholistan. There are three royal palaces The best time to visit is between November
here, but unfortunately they aren’t open to and February, or early morning or late after-
the public. You can take a distant peek at noon at other times of year, to avoid the noon
the late-19th-century Sadiq Garh, by far the heat. Take water and snacks with you.
grandest, from the gatehouse.
Channan Pir
GETTING THERE & AWAY The sleepy village of Channan Pir is about
Dera Nawab is the twin town of Ahmadpur 65km south of Bahawalpur, on the edge of
East (Ahmadpur). From Bahawalpur, there the desert. Every year around February/
are continuous minibus services (Rs 60, one March it swells with Cholistanis arriving by
hour). You’ll be set down at the turn-off to camel from surrounding settlements for the
Dera Nawab or Abbasi Chowk, Ahmadpur’s Channan Mela. This festival runs over seven
main square, from where there are minibuses consecutive Thursdays and Fridays (the fifth
to Dera Nawab (Rs 9, 15 minutes) and Uch and sixth days have special attractions such
Sharif (Rs 14, 25 minutes). as sporting events and theatrical perform-
ances), peaking during the full moon. Dates
Derawar Fort are variable – consult the PTDC (see p122)
The best-preserved and most accessible of in Bahawalpur.
Cholistan’s historic remains is the dramatic
fort at Derawar, 45km south of Dera Nawab. GETTING THERE & AWAY
This vast square structure was built in 1733 as Daily buses travel from Bahawalpur and
the headquarters of Sadiq Mohammed Khan Dera Nawab Sahib to Yazman, from where
I, the first nawab of Bahawalpur. you catch another bus to Channan Pir (Rs
Visible for many kilometres, the fort has 35, 45 minutes).
40 enormous bastions, most of them intact,
and it stands more than 30m high with a BHONG MOSQUE
circumference of 1.5km. Most of the interior This remarkable structure is located 50km
is in need of renovation and there isn’t actu- southwest of Rahim Yar Khan (a convenient
ally that much to see. The mosque outside jumping-off point to Bhong). The elaborate
the fort is in good repair, however. Made of Bhong Mosque was started by the late Sadar
marble, it was built on the exact lines of the Rais Ghazi Mohammad in the early 1930s
Moti Masjid in the Red Fort of Delhi (India). but took about half a century to complete. It
You may also be able to get a glimpse of the incorporates a stunning melange of Islamic
royal graveyard through a walled enclosure, design elements – the end result is unique
which is a five-minute walk to the east. Its and positively sublime. There are some strik-
tombs are adorned with exquisite blue tiles ing decorative embellishments such as gold
but it’s not open to visitors unless they are foil and exquisite calligraphy, among other
accompanied by a member of the Abbasi eye-catching features.
family. The exterior of the fort warrants a If you require accommodation, the best
visit in any case. options are found in Rahim Yar Khan.
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • U c h S h a r i f 127

Getting There & Away with, among other things, the conversion of
From Bahawalpur, take a bus to Rahim Yar Genghis Khan to Islam. The compound con-
Khan (Rs 250, four hours). From there it’s taining his flat-roofed shrine and mosque is
about 50km to Bhong Mosque (a minivan surrounded by a brick wall decorated with
costs Rs 35 and takes 1½ to two hours). A blue tiles. The shrine was built in the 14th
taxi from Bahawalpur to the Bhong Mosque century and is of interest for the original
will set you back around Rs 6000 for the woodcarvings on the pillars and the 40 beams,
return trip. some of which still have traces of early paint-
work. The saint’s urs is held on 19 Jamad Sani
UCH SHARIF (Islamic calendar).
With its name meaning ‘holy high place’, the
small town of Uch Sharif (or just Uch) is famous SHRINE OF JALALUDDIN BUKHARI
for its superb Sufi shrines, which are open and Hazrat Jalaluddin Bukhari (1303–1383),
the grandson of Jalaluddin Surkh Bukhari,

PUNJAB
free to all. It certainly warrants a visit.
Believed to date from around 500 BC or gained his nickname, Jehanian Jehangashat
earlier, Uch was under Hindu rule when (traveller of the world), because his search for
Alexander the Great invaded India. There enlightenment took him to Mecca, Medina,
are claims Alexander spent a fortnight here Mesopotamia, Syria, Egypt, Persia and Egypt
during which time he renamed it Alexandria. before he settled in Uch. He was a prominent
Mohammed bin Qasim entered Uch on his member of the Suhrawardiya Sufi branch and
march north; legend has it that the town’s was responsible for popularising it here.
numerous date palms are descended from The portal of the square shrine is supported
trees that grew from the stones of Arabian by wooden pillars in a poor state of repair,
dates brought by his soldiers. but the interior, with painted ceiling and two
After the arrival of Islam, Uch attracted re- tombs topped with turbans, is relatively well
ligious figures and many Islamic schools were preserved. The ancient carved door has sim-
founded here. By the 13th century it was one ple geometric and floral motifs. According to
of the subcontinent’s leading religious and legend, a gnarled tree outside the shrine was
cultural centres. Uch became an important planted by the saint himself. There is a tiny
base for the spread of two of the most impor- room, to the right of the door as you enter,
tant Sufi branches, the Sunni Qadiriya school said to house the footprint of Imam Ali.
of Syed Mohammed Ghous Jilani Hallabi and The saint’s urs is held on 10–12 Zilhaj.
the Shiite Suhrawardiya school, popularised Consult the Bahawalpur PTDC (see p122)
by Jalaluddin Bukhari. for exact dates, as they are variable.

Orientation & Information MAUSOLEUM OF BIBI JAWINDI

Minibuses from Bahawalpur and Ahmadpur The highly impressive tomb of Jehanian
East (Rs 45, 1½ hours) are quicker than buses. Jehangashat’s wife, Gholam Fatima, nick-
These depart from opposite Eidgah Mosque named Bibi Jawindi, stands next to the shrine
in Bahawalpur and the main bus stand re- of Jalaluddin Surkh Bukhari. Overlooking the
spectively. They drop passengers at the en- confluence of the Sutlej and Chenab Rivers
trance to the bazaar. To get to the shrines, and near a graveyard, the tomb has fine views
head west through the bazaar for about 1.5km of date groves almost as far as the eye can see.
until you exit near the tomb of Jalaluddin Only half of the building remains (the other
Surkh Bukhari. Although the shrines and half having apparently been partially destroyed
tombs are within walking distance of each by a flood in 1817) and although not in good
other, they aren’t easy to find without a guide. condition, it’s still an incredibly impressive
Alternatively, follow a bunch of pilgrims as sight. The octagonal tomb was built at the
they do a circuit of up to 10 tombs. end of the 15th century and still has some
beautiful tilework.
Sights
SHRINE & MOSQUE OF JALALUDDIN SHRINE OF SHEIKH SAIF-UD-DIN
SURKH BUKHARI GHAZROONI
Jalaluddin Surkh Bukhari (1177–1272), also This, the oldest shrine in Uch, and said to be
known as Jalaluddin Munir Shah, is credited the oldest Islamic tomb on the subcontinent,
 128 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • Pa n j n a d H e a d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

is in a bad state of repair with no outer or- century. From then on until the early 16th
naments surviving. It’s worth a visit for its century it was repeatedly stormed by invad-
historical significance. ers from central and west Asia. It returned to
relative peace from 1528 to 1748 under the
Sleeping Mughals, when it became renowned for its
There’s no hotel here so the town is best vis- architecture, music, ceramics and artistry.
ited as a day trip from Bahawalpur (71km The city passed through various rival dy-
away), preferably arriving in the early morn- nasties into the hands of the Sikhs until the
ing before it gets too hot. British stormed the citadel in 1848–49 after
scoring a direct hit on the city ammunitions
Getting There & Away dump. The two-week ‘Siege of Mooltan’ later
Minibuses shuttle between Uch bazaar and became known as the Second Sikh War.
Ahmadpur East (Rs 22, 30 minutes), from Multan is located about 95km north of
where you can catch another to Bahawalpur’s Bahawalpur.
PUNJAB

Eidgah Mosque (Rs 60, 1½ hours). Buses do

the same route but are much slower and de- Information
part from different bus stands so you’ll have BOOKSHOPS
to stick with the same mode of transport while There are some reasonably good bookshops
changing in Ahmadpur. A few services run in the Cantonment area (near Saddar Bazaar),
directly between Uch and Bahawalpur. including Caravan Books, Book Ocean and
Kitabnagar, the latter in Hassan Arcade
PANJNAD HEAD (Nusrat Rd).
About 12km from Uch Sharif, Panjnad Head
is where the five rivers of Punjab meet and it’s MEDICAL SERVICES
a popular site for picnickers. Remember that Nishtar Hospital (%9200231-37; Nishtar Rd) Off Baha-
photography of Pakistani bridges is illegal. walpur Rd, this is Multan’s most reputable medical facility.
A bus to Panjnad Head from Bahawalpur
costs Rs 12. MONEY
At the time of research no banks in Multan
MULTAN were dealing with foreign exchange, how-
%061 / pop 3,800,000 ever, many major banks (such as the Muslim
The largest town of lower Punjab and the cen- Commercial Bank opposite the Hotel Sindbad)
tre of Pakistan’s main cotton-growing area, offered 24-hour ATM services. The only place
Multan is noted for its remarkable shrines to change money was at authorised private
and mosques. moneychangers – these only change major for-
Little is known of Multan’s pre-Islamic his- eign currency notes, not travellers cheques –
tory, although it’s thought to date back some which are mostly found in Saddar Bazaar.
4000 years. Alexander the Great is believed to To be on the safe side, bring along adequate
have captured it around 324 BC. In AD 641 rupees/foreign-currency notes.
Chinese traveller Xuan Zang recorded a mag- Rahman Moneychangers (%572636; 2nd fl, Metro
nificent Hindu temple to Shiva, of which there Plaza; h9am-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-1pm Fri) A
is now no trace. This and other Hindu shrines reliable authorised private moneychanger that deals with
made Multan an important pilgrimage centre most major currencies (no travellers cheques).
even before the Islamic era. The Sanskrit Rig-
Veda is believed to have been written here. POST
Multan was the first town of Punjab to be Fedex (%111711111; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Next
captured by Mohammed bin Qasim (in 711). to Hotel Sinbad, Fedex is a reliable international courier
Ruled at the time by a Brahmin dynasty, it service.
eventually became a major Islamic centre. Main post office (GPO; Hassan Parwana Rd; hstamp
Since then it has attracted more mystics and sales 9am-3pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-12.30pm Fri) A man out
holy men than perhaps anywhere else on the front will stitch parcels on the spot (charges start at Rs 50).
subcontinent and today is dominated by their
shrines and tombs. TOURIST INFORMATION
It remained, at least nominally, under the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation
Baghdad caliphate until the end of the 12th (PTDC; %9201291; Hotel Sindbad, Nishtar Chowk;
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • M u l t a n 129

MULTAN 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles

INFORMATION SLEEPING Shangrilla Gardens & Barbecue

Book Ocean.....................................(see 6) Continental Guesthouse...................19 B4 Restaurant....................................32 B3
Caravan Books...............................(see 38) Dream Huts......................................20 B4 Zanzibar...........................................33 B4
Fedex...............................................(see 5) Holiday Inn.......................................21 B4
Kitabnagar..........................................1 B4 Hotel Al-Sana...................................22 B4 ENTERTAINMENT
Main Post Office (GPO).....................2 B4 Hotel Firdos......................................23 B4 Qasim Bagh Stadium........................34 C3
Muslim Commercial Bank (MCB)........3 B3 Hotel Mangol...................................24 B4 Rex Cinema......................................35 B4
Nishtar Hospital..................................4 B3 Hotel Shabroze.................................25 B4
Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation Hotel Shalimar..................................26 B4 SHOPPING
(PTDC)...........................................5 B3 Hotel Silver Sand..............................(see 7) Hussain Agahi Bazaar.......................36 D3
Rahman Moneychangers....................6 B4 Hotel Sindbad..................................(see 5) Karim Centre..................................(see 23)
Tourism Development Corporation of Hotel Taj...........................................27 B4 Nigar Khana.....................................37 C3
Punjab (TDCP)................................7 B4 New Relax Hotel..............................28 C3 Punjab Government Small Industries
Sheza Inn.........................................29 C3 Corporation..................................38 B4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Eidgah Mosque..................................8 D3

PUNJAB
EATING TRANSPORT
Gun Emplacement & Lookout............9 C3 Bundu Khan...................................(see 33) Airport............................................. 39 A4
Institute of Blue Pottery Lasani Gardens.................................30 D3 Minibus to Bahawalpur.....................40 B4
Development............................... 10 D4 Mehfil Coffee Shop........................(see 21) PIA...................................................41 B4
Mausoleum of Baha-ud-Din Zakaria..11 C3 Shangrilla.........................................31 B4

Rd
Mausoleum of Shams-ud-Din To Multan Bypass

r Rd
Phase II (6km)

an
Sabzwari...................................... 12 D3

Bos
Nawabpu
Mausoleum of Sheikh Rukn-i-Alam..13 C3
Su

Phulhattan Mosque..........................14 C3 Officers Rashidabad

raj

Qasim Bagh Fort..............................15 C3 Colony 8 Chowk

M
ian

Rd LM Q R d
Tomb of Musa Pak Shahid............... 16 C4 30
i

LM Q
Tomb of Yusuf Gardezi.................... 17 C3 Rd
To Tasty Plus
Wali Muhammad Mosque............... 18 C4 Restaurant (1km);
Kutchery Daewoo (1.5km);
4 Chowk Jhang (162km);
Sahiwal (171km)
Ku Ghanta Garh
tch (Clocktower)
29 12
5 Nishtar er
Chowk y
Rd 1511 Aam Khas Rd
hah
LMQ

3 13 Garden
28 Masoom S
Rashid Rd

R Ghanta 34
d

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Rd

32 alp Garden Garh 9 37 fi z

aw Chowk
B ah 27 Nawan 14 36 Ja
ma
Aziz S

Shahr Bohar 17 l
39 21 Chowk Rd Gate Rd
na
33 rwa Delhi
hahid R

Cantonment Abdali Rd 18
19 24 35 an Pa 16 Gate
ass Haram
Nusrat Rd

41 26 H Gate Ci
23 2 rcul To Main Bus Stand (500m);
d

6 a r R
1 d Pak Multan Cricket Stadium (1km);
Qasim Rd
Saddar 40 Dera 25 d Gate
38 r R Vehari (100km)
tan Rd
Bazaar Adda
A k ba City Ve
Tipu Sula 31 22 Chowk ha
Mu

Railway ri
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Quaid-i-A
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Hotel Station
20
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To Muzaffargah (36km); Chowk 10

DG Khan (100km); Mumtazabad
ad

7 Railway Station
Karachi (930km)
Rd

Rd Mulatan Cantonment
Shah
Sher Railway Station
To Bahawalpur
(95km)

h9am-4.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri) This well- arrange tours around Multan; an all-inclusive trip to Uch
stocked office has giveaway maps and sells postcards (Rs Sharif costs Rs 4000 (maximum four people).
5) and posters (Rs 25 to Rs 50). It can arrange tailor-made
tours in and around Multan (prices on application) – Sights & Activities
these include a visit to Multan’s Institute of Blue Pottery Multan has scores of shrines – too many to
Development and tours to local embroidery and camel-skin include here. If you’re interested in seeing
workshops. It can also arrange performances by traditional minor shrines consult the PTDC. As the urs
drummers, singers and puppeteers with at least two days’ dates (see each sight’s entry) vary from year
advance notice. Guides can be hired for Rs 500/1000 per to year, it’s best to get the exact dates from
half/full day (more if you travel out of Multan). the PTDC.
Tourism Development Corporation of Punjab
(TDCP; %9200955; 517-A Railway Rd; h8.30am-3pm QASIM BAGH FORT
Sun-Fri, 8.30am-noon Mon-Sat) Near the Hotel Silver Sand, Multan’s most prominent landmark, now
the TDCP operates a half-/full-day city tour for Rs 500/800 largely in ruins except for its gate and part
(maximum four people) that covers Multan’s major sights. of the outer walls and bastions, is Qasim Bagh
The half-day tour runs from 9am to 1pm and the full-day Fort (admission free; h24hr), near Hussain Agahi
tour from 9am to 1pm and 2pm to 6pm. TDCP can also and Chowk Bazaars.
 130 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • M u l t a n lonelyplanet.com

Apart from the shrines, most of the fort was MAUSOLEUM OF BAHA-UD-DIN ZAKARIA
destroyed by the British in 1848–49 to avenge Just near the Mausoleum of Sheikh Rukn-i-
the death of Lieutenant Alexander vans Agnew, Alam, the Mausoleum of Baha-ud-Din Zakaria
killed in Multan by order of the Sikh governor. (1182–1262), father of Rukn-i-Alam, was built
Agnew’s memorial obelisk stands on a plinth at in 1263. A disciple of the Sufi mystic Hazrat
one of the highest points of the fort mound. Shahabuddin Umar Suhrawardy of Jerusalem,
Qasim Bagh, the small garden after which the he introduced the Suhrawardiya branch to
fort now takes its name, and the large Qasim the subcontinent and founded a university in
Bagh Stadium lie to the south. Although you can Multan. His tomb was badly damaged in 1848
still walk most of the way around the ruined but was later restored. The brick building has
ramparts, the most impressive remains are by a square base and an octagonal second storey
the main entrance from Kutchery Rd, a major supporting a dome, and is decorated with blue
hub of Multan. The British gun emplacement tiles and Arabic inscriptions.
at the south of the mound is the place for a Although the upper halves of this tomb
PUNJAB

panoramic photograph of the town. and Rukn-i-Alam’s mausoleum have similar

At one time the fort had a circumference of designs from the outside, it’s interesting to
2000m and was protected by 46 towers, four compare the top-heavy and functional con-
main gates and the Ravi River, which used to struction of the interior of this tomb with the
flow between the fort and old town. lighter and more artistic design of the other,
built only about 50 years later, to appreciate
MAUSOLEUM OF SHEIKH RUKN-I-ALAM how innovative the latter is.
Lying just inside the main entrance to the fort, The urs of Baha-ud-Din (Ornament of the
this masterpiece of Mughal architecture is the Faith), also known as Baha-al-Haq, is held
most significant and attractive of Multan’s on 27 Safar.
shrines. A pious and widely loved scholar,
Rukn-ud-Din Abul Fatah (1251–1334), MAUSOLEUM OF SHAMS-UD-DIN
commonly known as Sheikh Rukn-i-Alam SABZWARI
(Pillar of the World), became head of the On the dry bed of the Ravi River, less than 1km
Suhrawardiya Sufi branch introduced to the northeast of the fort, the shrine of Shams-ud-
region by his father Baha-ud-Din Zakaria, and Din Sabzwari (Shams Tabrez), who is believed
is regarded as the patron saint of Multan. to have lived from 1165 to 1276, was founded
Built entirely of red brick and timber, the by his grandson in 1330 and rebuilt by more
structure is not only beautiful but is skil- distant descendants in about 1780.
fully executed, with a brilliant mastery of the One of the most enduring legends about
squinch (a small arch across the corner of the many miracles of Shams Tabrez is that he
a tower masking the transition from square moved the sun closer to himself, hence mak-
to dome). It is said that the Tughlaq king ing Multan the hot and dusty city it is today
Ghiyasud-Din originally built the mauso- (shams means sun in Arabic). Whether or not
leum for himself in 1320, but that his son the saint has been forgiven for this action, his
offered it as the saint’s resting place out of tomb attracts vast numbers of devotees on his
religious duty. urs, held on 14–16 Rabusani.
The building has two octagonal lower sto-
reys strengthened by buttresses, supporting a MAUSOLEUM OF SULTAN ALI AKBAR
massive spired dome almost 20m in diameter, This largely forgotten but impressive 16th-
and has a total height of over 30m. One of century tomb lies in the Suraj Miani suburb
the supporting towers was destroyed during to the north of the city centre. Akbar’s mother
the siege of 1849, but it was later restored. has her own tomb nearby.
The interior and exterior are decorated with To get here take a tonga (two-wheeled horse
garters of glazed tiles in blue and turquoise carriage) from the north side of Kutchery
laid in regular geometric bas reliefs. Inside Chowk to Suraj Miani in the northern out-
are dozens of chevron-shaped ridges laid out skirts, then walk 400m east and south through
on the ground like graves, but the tomb of the the backstreets. You’ll be able to see the huge
saint is draped in a cloth under a canopy. octagonal building from the tonga. A qinji
The saint’s urs is held on 3 Jamaldi costs about Rs 60 (Rs 10 per person if there are
ul Awal. six people) or it’s Rs 70 by autorickshaw.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • M u l t a n 131

EIDGAH MOSQUE Sleeping

The large Eidgah Mosque, covering an area of Most of the best places to stay are in or around
some 73m by 16m, was built in 1735 and was the city centre. Street clatter can drive you
later used by the Sikhs as a military garrison. loopy – request a quiet room and keep ear-
In turn, the British used it as a courthouse plugs within easy reach.
(it was here that Agnew was slain) but it was
restored to its original use in 1891 and today BUDGET
has some of the finest blue tilework in Multan. Many of Multan’s rock-bottom places have
The mosque is about 1km north of Qasim closed in recent years due to poor business,
Bagh Fort. and what’s left is not ultra cheap. There’s
also a limited choice as many simply can’t
OTHER MONUMENTS be recommended because they’re disgust-
Only the most enthusiastic fan of Islamic ar- ing fleapits, don’t accept foreigners, or both.
chitecture could fully appreciate all of Multan’s

PUNJAB
Tap into the traveller’s grapevine to find out
shrines, tombs and mosques in a fleeting visit. whether anyone has struck a newly opened or
Many are hidden in the old town; north of Pak renovated budget gem.
Gate (Circular Rd) is Wali Muhammad Mosque Hotel Taj (%4549319; Nawan Shaher Rd; s/d Rs 250/350)
(1758) and Phulhattan Mosque (1720), to the A good location, however, the rooms are bare
northwest is the beautifully tiled Tomb of Yusuf and very grotty. Should only be considered in
Gardezi and south of this is the Tomb of Musa Pak an emergency.
Shahid. There are also several ruined Hindu Hotel Shabroze (%4544224; Hassan Parwana Rd; s/d
temples in the area. Routes can be torturous – Rs 300/475, s/d wth air-con Rs 750/1100) Just off Dera
hire a guide or try your luck by asking locals to Adda Chowk, the Shabroze has small, bare
keep pointing you in the right direction. rooms but is OK for a night or two.
Hotel Shalimar (%4583245; Al-Sana Bldg, Hassan
BAZAARS Parwana Rd; s/d Rs 400/650, s/d with air-con Rs 800/1200;
At the base of the fort mound is the sprawling a) A standout in Multan’s lacklustre budget
bazaar and old town, connected to the rest of bundle, the rooms here are not too bad apart
the town by seven medieval gates. The main from being a smidgen gloomy.
markets are the Hussain Agahi & Chowk Bazaars,
flanked by antique wooden merchant houses MIDRANGE
and echoing Multan’s former importance as Many hotels in this category are centrally air-
a trade centre. conditioned, so before accepting a room, first
ensure it is adequately chilled. Most midrange
INSTITUTE OF BLUE POTTERY places mentioned here incur a 24.2% hotel tax
DEVELOPMENT (not included in the following reviews).
To see the production phases of blue pot- Hotel Firdos (%4572155; Karim Centre; s/d Rs 500/700,
tery, a traditional craft that is a Multan spe- s/d with air-con Rs 1400/2000) Just north of Dera Adda
ciality, visit this small but interesting institute Chowk, some rooms at Firdos are musty and
(%4548898; Mumtazabad Rd; h8am-3pm). The lovely rather unkempt – not great value. You’re bet-
items made here are sold in Pakistan and be- ter off opting for one of its considerably better,
yond and can also be purchased at the in- more expensive rooms.
stitute’s own showroom (prices range from Hotel Silver Sand (%4518061; 514 Railway Rd;
Rs 30 for a small vase to Rs 7000 for a large s/d Rs 700/1000; a) Located just off Aziz Hotel
one). For an informal tour meet the institute’s Chowk, Silver Sand is a sound choice apart
project director, Mr Shuaib Khan. from having some run-down rooms that are
An autorickshaw from the city centre is starved of natural light.
Rs 100 (one way). The PTDC and TDCP New Relax Hotel (%4511688; Kutchery Rd; s/d
can arrange tours to the institute (prices Rs 800/1000, s/d with air-con Rs 1100/1400; a) Neither
on application). new nor particularly relaxing, this hotel has
worn and weary rooms, making it the worst
SWIMMING of the best midrange batch.
Holiday Inn (Abdali Rd) If you’re all shrined out and Hotel Al-Sana (% 4547501; Sher Shah Rd; s/d
desperate for a cool dip, Holiday Inn allows Rs 1000/1500; a) The attraction of this hotel is
nonguests to use its pool for Rs 500 per day. that it’s quieter than many others, however,
 132 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • M u l t a n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

the grassy central courtyard gets more points Chinese and Continental fare. Sweet tooths
than the rooms. will savour the ‘chocolate overload’ ice cream
Hotel Mangol (%4548231; LMQ Rd; s/d Rs 1000/1500; (Rs 60).
a) About 200m north of Dera Adda Chowk, Zanzibar (64A Abdali Rd; mains Rs 110-495; hnoon-
this is one of Multan’s most appealing midnight; a) Hip and happening, Zanzibar has
midrange offerings with good (albeit not attentive staff, a chic interior and a swanky cir-
luxurious) rooms. cular bar (all that’s missing is the alcohol!). The
Dream Huts (%4573882; Railway Rd; s/d Rs 1200/1500; ambitious menu here sports everything from
a) Quiet and set back from the road, the aver- seafood chowder (Rs 90) to hot dogs (Rs 140)
age rooms are somewhat offset by the garden to Mexican chicken fajitas (Rs 270). Zanzibar’s
courtyard. Opposite the TDCP office. dessert list even includes an Australian-
Continental Guesthouse (%4577939; 2507 New inspired ‘summer pavlova’ (Rs 125).
Abdali Colony; s/d Rs 1600/2000; a) The Continental Mehfil Coffee Shop (Holiday Inn, Abdali Rd; mains
is a little hard to find, so look for the sign Rs 125-310; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; a) Open to
PUNJAB

on LMQ Rd. Friendly staff and comfortable nonguests, this is good for a minor splurge.
rooms make it one of the better midrange Spaghetti carbonara followed by a banana
options. It’s located near the Multan Central split and cup of green tea will cost you Rs
Telephone Exchange, off LMQ Rd. 280/150/65 respectively.
Hotel Sindbad (%4512640; Nishtar Chowk; s/d Rs Shangrilla (mains Rs 140-690; hlunch & dinner; a)
1800/2600; a) Like Hotel Mangol, rooms at this In the Cantonment area, just off Quaid-i-
price should really have more attention to detail. Azam Rd, Shangrilla is a relaxing place to
Nonetheless, you’ll be adequately comfortable chow down on Multan’s finest Chinese cui-
here and if you’ve got any tourist-related que- sine. The menu includes golden oldies such as
ries, the PTDC office operates out of a converted sweet’n’sour chicken (Rs 270) and beef with
Sindbad room. The tariff includes breakfast in lemon sauce (Rs 250).
the recently renovated coffee shop. Bundu Khan (Abdali Rd; mains Rs 160-450; hnoon-
midnight; a) Next door to Zanzibar, although
TOP END not as funky, this restaurant still gets the
Holiday Inn is Multan’s only five-star hotel. thumbs up. The waiters are obliging and
The room rates here don’t include the there’s pleasant alfresco dining (indoor seating
24.2% tax. is also available). The Pakistani cuisine is tasty
Sheza Inn (%4782236; [email protected]; Kutchery but can be fiery, so request less chilli if your
Rd; s/d Rs 3000/3500; a) Sheza is no match for the taste buds aren’t up for the ride. Alternatively,
Holiday Inn, but the price won’t pack as much opt for the Chinese or fast-food offerings,
of a blow and you may even be able to cut it which include chicken honey wings (Rs 250)
further. Rooms are arranged around a central and chicken cheeseburgers (Rs 160).The ‘kids
garden – some are prone to noise when din- club’ will keep your little monsters occupied
ners are held here so choose carefully. Extra while you steal some quiet time.
money will get you a considerably more spa- Shangrilla Gardens & Barbecue Restaurant
cious and luxurious room. (Bahawalpur Rd; mains Rs 160-490; hdinner) You can
Holiday Inn (%4587777; 76 Abdali Rd; s/d Rs 7000/8000; opt for standard Pakistani or Continental food
ais) Although not as grand as most other here, eaten indoors or out in the garden. The
properties in this chain, you’ll still find all the jug of lassi (yogurt and iced-water beverage;
trimmings you’d expect of a Holiday Inn. The Rs 100) is sure to quench the most savage
affable receptionists may even shave a few summer thirst.
hundred rupees off the rate if you cry poor. Tasty Plus Restaurant (Khanewal Rd; mains Rs 210-410;
hlunch & dinner) The chefs here do a fairly good
Eating job of Pakistani, Chinese and Continental
Cheap meals are available around Dera cuisine. The succulent mutton leg steam roast
Adda Chowk, Ghanta Garh Chowk and (Rs 410 per 1kg serve) is enough for two.
the bazaars.
Midrange and upper-range restaurants Entertainment
have a 15% tax (not included here). CINEMA
Lasani Gardens (Rashidabad Chowk; mains Rs 80-250; Rex Cinema (Hassan Parwana Rd) Opposite the main
hlunch & dinner) Whips up the usual mix of post office, the Rex sometimes plays English-
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • D e r a G h a z i K h a n ( D G K h a n ) 133

language films (see newspapers for details). bus service is operated by Daewoo (%11007008;
Tickets cost Rs 30 to Rs 50. Khanewal Rd, Qaddafi Chowk), which has air-con
services (that include a light refreshment)
CRICKET to Faisalabad (Rs 270, four hours), Lahore
Multan, like most of Pakistan, loves cricket (Rs 400, 5¼ hours), Rawalpindi (Rs 580, 7½
and has spawned some of the nation’s finest hours), Bahawalpur (Rs 130, 1½ hours) and
players. To find out if there’s a worthwhile Sargodha (Rs 340, 4½ hours).
match coinciding with your visit, check
newspapers and ask the PTDC. TRAIN
Multan Cricket Stadium (Vehari Rd) The main venue All trains leave from the Multan Cantonment
for major cricket matches. Railway Station (Multan Cantt). There are
Qasim Bagh Stadium Located in the fort area, this daily services to Bahawalpur, Karachi, Lahore,
venue occasionally hosts cricket matches. Peshawar, Quetta and Rawalpindi. Check at

PUNJAB
the train station for fares and times at least a
Shopping few days before you intend to travel.
Many types of clothing are unique to Multan,
including embroidered kurtas for men, silk Getting Around
shirts and khussas (a pair of these handmade Buses 1 and 3 run from Dera Adda Chowk to
leather shoes will cost anywhere from Rs 500 Nawan Shahr Chowk (Rs 3), Nishtar Chowk
to Rs 2000). Multan is also known for camel- (Rs 3), Kutchery Chowk (Rs 3), Eidgah
skin lamps, blue pottery, carpets, lacquered Mosque (Rs 5) and finally the main bus stand
wooden objects, hand-embroidered work in (Rs 8). Others run from Ghanta Garh Chowk
silk, and earthenware vases, sometimes inlaid to Dera Adda Chowk. Fixed route tongas run
with tiny mirror tiles. from Aziz Hotel Chowk to Dera Adda Chowk
Hussain Agahi & Chowk Bazaars Sells, among other and then on to Bohar and Haram Gates for Rs
things, some good traditional handicrafts. Bargain hard. 7 to Rs 9 per ticket.
Karim Centre Has a number of shops selling good-value An autorickshaw from the main train station
music CDs (mainly Pakistani and Indian). Karim is situated costs around Rs 40 to Dera Adda Chowk and
below Hotel Firdos. Rs 65 to the fort. To hire an autorickshaw for
Nigar Khana Housed in a former ammunition store, this a half/full day costs about Rs 600/800, which
tourist-oriented shop sells a range of handicrafts. It’s near should include the waiting time (foreigners
Qasim Bagh Fort. are usually quoted much higher rates so don’t
Punjab Government Small Industries Corporation be shy to haggle). Autorickshaws are much
(Aziz Shahid Rd) In the Cantonment area, this is another quicker and more convenient than the buses.
reliable place to search for handicrafts.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Getting There & Away The airport is a couple of kilometres west of the
city centre. From the airport to the centre auto-
AIR rickshaws should charge Rs 100 (you’ll probably
There are flights are operated by PIA (%9200024; be asked for more – bargain hard). Taxis charge
65 Abdali Rd; h8am-8pm), including twice daily around Rs 300 from the airport to Dera Adda
services to Karachi (Rs 5150, one hour and 10 Chowk. There are free luggage trolleys at the
minutes) and Islamabad via Lahore (Rs 4550, airport or porters can be hired for Rs 50.
2½ hours; to Lahore Rs 3400, one hour).
CAR
BUS & MINIBUS If you’d like to hire a car with driver one op-
Minibuses to Bahawalpur leave frequently tion is the PTDC (%512640; Hotel Sindbad, Nishtar
from the stand just west of Dera Adda Chowk; h8am-8pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8am-noon & 2-8pm
Chowk. Fri), which charges about Rs 250 per hour for a
The chaotic main bus stand east of town standard small car; with air-con it’s Rs 350.
has larger air-con buses to Bahawalpur
(Rs 60, 1½ hours), Faisalabad (Rs 160, five DERA GHAZI KHAN (DG KHAN)
hours), Karachi (Rs 630, 12 to 13 hours), %0641
Lahore (Rs 250, six hours), Rawalpindi (Rs DG Khan is of little interest to travellers ex-
370, eight hours) and elsewhere. The best cept as a transit stop before Dera Ismail Khan
 134 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • A r o u n d D e r a G h a z i K h a n lonelyplanet.com

or Balochistan. Originally on the bank of the GETTING THERE & AWAY

Indus, DG Khan was destroyed by flooding There are buses from DG Khan to Fort Munro,
in 1911 and rebuilt 15km away on the present but at other times the minibuses only go as far
site. If you’re stuck here for a few hours there as the fork before continuing on to Rakhni
are several interesting tombs on the outskirts in Balochistan. Before travelling onwards to
of town. Balochistan, first check in DG Khan whether
At the time of research, due to security it’s considered safe.
concerns, a curfew was in force for DG Khan There are also minibuses between DG Khan
and surrounding areas. Accordingly, foreign- and Rakhni every half hour before sunset (Rs
ers were not allowed to stay in DG without 110, three hours).
permission from the Interior Ministry in
Islamabad. We also heard from travellers HARAPPA
who had been given free rides by the local %0404
constabulary to move them on from the town. Harappa dates back to the 3rd millennium
PUNJAB

It is best to check with locals and the PTDC BC and is the second most important Indus
(see p128) in Multan before travelling. Valley civilisation site, but it’s not nearly as
well preserved as Moenjodaro (see p176).
Getting There & Away This, combined with the difficulty in reach-
The main bus stand has services to multiple ing it, means that those without a specialist
destinations including Multan (Rs 70, two interest may be disappointed. On the flip side,
hours), Lahore (Rs 280, eight hours) and some travellers come here purely to soak up
Rawalpindi (Rs 380, 10 hours). the site’s tranquil setting.
Excavations have been carried out almost
AROUND DERA GHAZI KHAN every spring since 1986 by the universities of
Shrine of Sarkhi Sarwar California and Wisconsin, in conjunction with
Thirty kilometres along the road from DG the Pakistani Department of Archaeology. If
Khan to Balochistan is the shrine of Sarkhi you’re interested in learning more about this
Sarwar, a popular truck stop for drivers to ancient civilisation, the Harappa Museum
grab some food and say a prayer before enter- (see opposite) sells a booklet, The Glory
ing Balochistan. The shrine has an urs festival that Was Harappa, by Dr FA Khan, for Rs
on 30 Chet. 200. You should also be able to find spe-
cialist books about Harappa at Pakistan’s
Fort Munro major bookshops.
En route to Quetta, about 80km from DG
Khan, Fort Munro was built as a hill station Information
by the British and is still the only such resort There’s nowhere to change money in Harappa
in south Punjab. It’s named after a Colonel itself, but there is a bank and a handful of
Munro, at one time commissioner of DG authorised private moneychangers that deal
Khan. Many tribal chiefs of Balochistan and in foreign exchange at nearby Sahiwal. The
a few government officials have summer resi- private moneychangers usually give a better
dences here, but it’s more or less empty in rate – most can be found at Sahiwal’s Jinnah
winter. There is a small British cemetery at Chowk, some just opposite the Habib Bank
the top of the hill. Even if you don’t plan to (ask around). Several banks also change
stay here, the breathtaking drive up onto the money including Habib Bank (Jinnah Chowk, Sahiwal;
Balochistan plateau is its own reward. %9am-1pm Mon-Sat), but check around for the
You can stay at TDCP Motel (%0346-9931435; r Rs best rates.
500). Advance reservations are recommended
(especially from June to September). The Site
The settlement of Khar, 5km before Fort Harappa comprises a citadel mound, defen-
Munro, has an interesting fort built by the sive walls, a drainage system, a cemetery and a
British and now used as a levy station. Here huge granary. However, in the past it has been
the road forks; left to Fort Munro, right plundered so much by local villagers for bricks
towards Balochistan. The Rakhni Valley on to build their houses, and especially by the
the other side of the provincial border has British for material for the Lahore to Multan
verdant orchards. railway line, that there is relatively little to
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • H a r a p p a 135

see at the site itself. A path snakes around the but check a few rooms first, as some have a
compound with viewing platforms and a few stale, smoky odour. You should be able to get a
signs with English descriptions. 10% discount if you politely twist their arm.
At the site is the small but well-kept and City Inn Hotel (%4220509; Tufail Shaheed Rd; s/d Rs
interesting Harappa Museum (admission Rs 200; 500/700, s/d with air-con Rs 1000/1300) Located just off
h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm summer, 9am-4pm the Lahore to Multan road, this is another
winter). It exhibits items from the cemetery and worthy choice. The room quality is above aver-
other parts of the site, including etched carn- age and the hotel absorbs less noise pollution
elian beads, shell objects, stone tools, domestic than many other Sahiwal properties.
implements, pottery, toys, earthenware, seals Starlite Hotel (%4464114; Stadium Rd; r Rs 1200; a)
with the mysterious Moenjodaran script, ani- Another decent choice. Apart from having
mal and human figurines and stone weights, good rooms, it cops less traffic noise than
as well as articles from other Indus Valley many other hotels.
sites. Like the Moenjodarans, the Harappans Hotel Sea Rose (%226377; Grand Trunk Rd; r Rs 800,

PUNJAB
traded with Mesopotamia and other faraway r with air-con Rs 1250) Situated just outside town
lands. One fascinating display shows a recon- on the Lahore to Multan road, the Sea Rose is
structed Harappan burial. No photography is more than merely sweet sounding. Apart from
allowed in the Harappa Museum. having nice rooms, it’s a little set back from
the main road, making it reasonably quiet.
Sleeping & Eating There’s a good dining hall that includes some
HARAPPA SITE simple favourites like roast chicken (Rs 250)
Archaeological Department Resthouse (%4431099; and French fries (Rs 55).
per person Rs 200) Located near the museum, this is Dreamland Guest House (%4222283; Liaquat Rd; s/d
the only accommodation possibility at Harappa Rs 1180/1355; a) Dreamland’s rooms are not as
itself. It’s nothing flash, but it’s by far the most dreamy as the name suggests – on the con-
convenient (and peaceful) accommodation on trary, they’re rather gloomy – but it’s still a
offer; however, there are only two rooms. Meals passable possibility if other places are full.
can be prepared by the chowkidar (caretaker) Iris Hotel (%4226727; Railway Rd; s/d Rs 3000/5000;
with advance notice. a) Newly built, the Iris is Sahiwal’s most
To stay, you must book in advance either luxurious option. It is geared towards the
here or through the Department of Archaeology wedding market, which can pack the place
(%042-7662645, open from 8am to 3pm out, although on quieter nights you can enjoy
Monday to Thursday and Saturday, and 8am pretty good Pakistani, Continental and barbe-
to noon Friday), at Lahore Fort. cue fare in the restaurant.

SAHIWAL Getting There & Away

%040 Harappa village is near the site. Harappa Rd
Most visitors stay at the nearby town of Sahiwal, (which is actually a town on the road junc-
which is about 45 minutes away from the tion) is on the National Hwy, 3km from the
Harappa site. Cheap eats can be found in the site. The nearest large town is Sahiwal, located
town centre and around major public-transport about 45 minutes from Harappa.
hubs. Some hotels have their own restaurant. Harappa Rd is a request stop on the main
Shoestring accommodation is limited here. Lahore to Multan road (3½ hours from
Be warned that incessant traffic noise is no- Lahore, three hours from Multan) and also
torious in Sahiwal – countless travellers have on the Bahawalpur to Sahiwal bus route.
complained of spending sleepless nights here. Alternatively, you can take a bus from Lahore
Ask for a quiet room and bring earplugs. to Sahiwal (Rs 120, three hours) and then a
The following hotels may impose a 23% tax local bus (Rs 15), car or autorickshaw on to
(not included here). Harappa Rd (about 45 minutes). From here,
Indus Hotel (%465205; 8 Railway Rd; s/d Rs 200/250, there is an erratic local bus service. There are
r with air-con Rs 800) This is one of the best-value buses every 30 minutes running from Sahiwal
budget choices, with some of the cheapest and to Harappa.
most salubrious rooms in this price bracket. To get from Harappa village bus stop to the
Hotel International (%4466394; 153 Railway Rd; s/d museum, walk west down a road between the
Rs 450/750, s/d with air-con Rs 950/1150) Not a bad choice, ruins of a police station and an archaeological
 136 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • Pa k p a t t a n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

mound. Buses (Rs 15) and minibuses (Rs 19) Information

go back to Sahiwal from Harappa village or Money can be changed at authorised private
Harappa Rd. moneychangers (these are largely found at
An autorickshaw from Sahiwal to the site Kuchery Chowk) or at several major banks,
at Harappa will cost about Rs 350 one way many of which have 24-hour ATMs. One op-
(Rs 500 return, which includes two hours tion is Habib Bank (Kuchery Chowk), which
waiting time). changes money and has a 24-hour ATM.
Destinations served by Sahiwal’s train sta-
tion include: Lahore (the quickest train to Activities
Lahore is the Shalimar Express, which takes Serena Hotel (Club Rd) Nonguests have to cough
2¼ hours while the others take around four up a hefty Rs 650 per day to use the pool here.
hours); Multan (about three hours); Quetta Use of the tennis or squash courts also costs a
(the fastest is the Jaffar Express, which takes ridiculous Rs 500 (each) per day.
about 19 hours); and Karachi (the quickest is
PUNJAB

the Shalimar Express, which takes about 15 Sleeping

hours). For fares and bookings check at the Receiving a paltry trickle of budget visi-
Sahiwal train station at least a few days before tors, Faisalabad does not really cater to the
you intend to travel. shoestring traveller. Many of its cheapies
have closed down in recent years. The few
PAKPATTAN places that remain are filthy flophouses with
Meaning Holy Ferry Crossing, Pakpattan is staff who look positively cheesed off. At the
a major pilgrimage site, 46km southeast of time of research, some midranges were also
Sahiwal at a strategic crossing of the Sutlej not accepting foreigners. Meanwhile, the
River. Pilgrims (including Tamerlane and the Serena Hotel (below) is Faisalabad’s only
Mughal emperor Akbar) have come here for top-end choice.
centuries to visit the tomb of Farid Shakar Ganj For cheap accommodation, it’s best to see
(1173–1265), a Sufi saint of the Chistian order. what’s actually open (and willing to accept
The saint’s urs starts on 5–9 Muharram and foreigners) at the time of your visit. The best
is one of the largest in Pakistan. place to find new (and potentially decent)
There are several daily buses and minibuses budget hotels is at the bazaars around the
between Pakpattan and Sahiwal (Rs 45, about clock tower – ask around as they’re unlikely
one hour). to have signs in English.
Retiring Rooms (%9200488; train station; s Rs 200)
FAISALABAD The basic rooms at the train station are a
%041 / pop 2,008,861 possibility for those holding ongoing tickets
A small market town before Partition, (departure within 24 hours).
Faisalabad is now Pakistan’s main agro- Prime Hotel (% 600329; Allama Iqbal Rd; s/d
industrial (it has the biggest agricultural uni- Rs 1800/2000, plus 23% tax; a) Opposite Iqbal Park,
versity in Asia) and textile centre, a bustling this hotel has been given the tick of approval
metropolis about 100km west of Lahore. by several travellers. The rooms are not out-
Faisalabad was built around a clock tower standing but certainly better than most other
by the British, who named it Lyallpur, with places in this price range.
eight bazaars leading out in the pattern of Serena Hotel (%600428; www.serenahotels.com; Club
the Union Jack flag, but the town has since Rd; r Rs 11,000, plus 23% tax; ais) Apart from
been swallowed by typical urban sprawl. its sumptuous rooms, Serena has three fine
Renamed after King Faisal of Saudi Arabia, restaurants. The coffee shop serves a particu-
it’s also dubbed the Manchester of Pakistan larly hearty buffet breakfast/lunch/dinner (Rs
(without the nightlife) and is the birthplace 410/450/575) and also has à la carte dining –
of the late Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan. the fish and chips (Rs 380) and honey and
Very few travellers come to Faisalabad, as walnut tart (Rs 165) looked delicious.
there’s not really anything of touristic in-
terest. Indeed, most foreigners who come Entertainment
here do so for a specific educational or Iqbal Stadium (%9200558) Sometimes hosts
work purpose. international cricket matches. In the same
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • L a h o re t o I s l a m a b a d 137

complex is a children’s fun park and some here for Sialkot) before crossing the Chenab
moderately priced restaurants and shops. River, rising to the Potwar Plateau and cross-
ing the Jhelum River at Jhelum.
Getting There & Away
AIR Jhelum
Twice daily flights to Karachi are operated by %0544
PIA (%9200786; 26 New Civil Lines) for Rs 6050 (one There is little to attract the visitor in Jhelum,
hour and 40 minutes). though it is a transport hub, and you can
change money and organise 4WD tours (see
BUS Paradise Hotel, below) to the Salt Range and
The main bus stand is on Abdullahpur Rd in Rohtas Fort.
the northeast of the city. Reputable private
buses also operate from the main bus stand in- SLEEPING
cluding Kohistan (%783681), with daily services Faran Inn (%628671; s/d Rs 500/700, s/d with air-con

PUNJAB
to Multan (Rs 210, six hours), Lahore (Rs 150, 1200/1500; a) An OK choice near the bazaar,
2½ hours), Rawalpindi (Rs 220, five hours) with basic rooms. The dilapidated Zeelaf Hotel
and Sahiwal (Rs 190, two to three hours), nearby would be an emergency option.
among other destinations. Paradise Hotel (%614612; s/d Rs 700/900) Look
The most comfortable private bus company for the large Paradise Travels billboard in
is Daewoo (%111007008; Chowk Akbarabad Rd), located the cantonment and find the hotel beneath.
near the Allied Hospital. It plies the following Friendly, with clean, fan-cooled rooms (no
routes: Lahore (Rs 230, 2¼ hours), Multan (Rs musty carpets), this hotel is the best option.
270, four hours), Peshawar (Rs 530, 6½ hours) The associated travel business can organise
and Rawalpindi (Rs 350, 3½ hours). The price 4WD tours around the region.
includes a light refreshment.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
TRAIN There are numerous minibuses that head
Three express intercity trains run daily to from the Grand Trunk (GT) bus stand to
Lahore (two hours). The daily Chenab Express Rawalpindi (Rs 80), Lahore (Rs 1100) and
goes to Rawalpindi (11 hours), Multan (five Chatwal (Rs 65).
hours) and Bahawalpur (eight hours). The
Chenab Express also continues to Peshawar Rohtas Fort
(15 hours). The Faisalabad Express is the fastest Some 16km northwest of Jhelum, colossal
daily train to Karachi (16 hours). For fares and Rohtas Fort is an extraordinary example of
bookings check at the Faisalabad Train Station military architecture. It was started in 1543 by
at least a few days before you intend to travel. the Pashtun ruler Sher Shah Suri, to protect the
Passenger Suzukis (Rs 8) connect the bus strategic Peshawar to Calcutta (now Kolkata)
and train stations to Kuchery Bazaar. road from the Mughals and their allies. He
never lived to see its completion and work was
LAHORE TO ISLAMABAD carried on by succeeding rulers. However, it was
The Grand Trunk (GT) Rd and the Lahore– soon made redundant when Akbar moved his
Islamabad Motorway (M2) provide a choice of frontier to Attock and built a new fort there.
routes between the two cities and, if you have The vast fort is now in ruins except for the
time to jump off the bus, access to an ancient crenulated outer walls and most of its 12 gates
region boasting one of the world’s largest salt and 68 bastions. The best-preserved remains
mines, an awesome stone fort and Hindu and are to the west; walk through the town to the
Buddhist relics. The PTDC and TDCP run western Sohal Gate to start your explorations.
tours that include the Salt Range and Rohtas Built to an irregular plan on hilly ground, its
Fort – contact their offices in Lahore (p101) 12m-thick terraced ramparts have a perimeter
or Islamabad (p77). of more than 4km and vary in height from
Leaving Lahore and running almost due 10m to 18m. You can still walk along some of
north across the flat Punjab plain, the GT them but they are crumbling, so watch your
Rd runs past the industrial megabazaar of step. An internal wall separates the inner fort
Gujranwala (68km) and Wazirabad (turn off (or citadel for the elite) at the northwest from
 © Lonely Planet Publications
138 S O U T H E R N P U N J A B • • L a h o re t o I s l a m a b a d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

the outer fort of soldiers and citizens, where record of the ancient sea that once flowed
the sleepy town still exists. over the Indus plain. The salt formed when
Little remains of the interior, but there are the sea stagnated and dried, and subsequent
two pavilions of the haveli of Man Singh (gov- geological movement formed these massive
ernor of Lahore and a general in the time of deposits into the 300km range.
his son-in-law Akbar the Great), which you Khewra, home to the second-largest salt
can climb for a view over the whole fort. To mine in the world, is accessed via Lilla or Kala
the west, at the pinnacle of the outer wall, a Kahar on the M2 motorway, or via Chakwal
high stone platform marks the burj (execu- (with both road and rail links to the GT Rd
tion tower); victims would be thrown from at Mandra). Salt has been mined here since
here into the ditch below. Two gates in the ancient times, and exploited commercially
northern wall lead down to freshwater wells at least since the Mughal era. The British
and the Kahan River. You could spend two expanded the operation in 1872, a couple
or three hours exploring the grounds. Bring of decades after wresting the territory from
PUNJAB

a hat, and although drinks can be bought in the Sikhs. Salt mine tours (%0458-211137; US$6
the town, it’s wise to carry your own. or Rs equivalent; h9am-6pm) take you through
the caverns gouged out of the salt; in places
SLEEPING the salt is crystal clear, in others pinkish-red.
To visit the fort at dawn or dusk (recom- There are pools of brine, salty stalactites and
mended) you should stay the night in Dina, even an underground mosque created out of
17km from Jhelum and a busy stop on the GT salt bricks. A Pakistan Mineral Development
Rd. Similar Iqbal Hotel (%0544-630624; GT Rd; s/d Rs Corporation (PMDC) Tourist Resort (%0544-
1000/1200; a) and Al-Kousar (%0544-630892; GT Rd; 211118 ext 251; s/d Rs 1100/1300; a) at Khewra can
r Rs 1500; a) are neighbours at the northwest be reserved if no officials are staying there.
(Islamabad) end of town. Both have clean, Collocated with the Tourist Resort, the
comfortable rooms with TV and phone, en PMDC also operates the Allergological Asthma
suites with hot water, and restaurants. Resort that claims to offer asthma suffers long-
term relief. The technique was developed in
GETTING THERE & AWAY the Soviet Union when salt miners found that
From Dina you can take a bus (Rs 15) or hire their respiratory conditions were cured after
a taxi (Rs 550 including waiting time and re- spending extended periods underground in
turn) to Rohtas. The turn-off to Rohtas is the salt mine. The program offered involves
southeast of town. The last bus back to Dina spending six hours a days for 24 days under-
officially leaves Rohtas at 3pm. Several trains ground in a special section of the salt mine.
a day stop in Dina bound for Rawalpindi or Five kilometres west of Choa Saidan Shah,
Lahore but times are not as convenient as site of a popular Sufi shrine, lies Ketas, a major
the numerous buses and minibuses plying Hindu pilgrimage site before Partition and still
the route. a rewarding place to visit. Several 8th- to 10th-
century temples, a ruined fort and a viewing
The Salt Range platform surround a translucent pool, which
Little known and seldom visited, the bar- legend says was formed from a teardrop shed
ren but interesting Salt Range is a geological by Shiva, in mourning for his dead wife.

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
139

Balochistan
The southwestern province of Balochistan is a hard place to make a living in – or travel
through. It’s a place of contradictions, at once Pakistan’s largest and most sparsely inhabited
region, rich in natural resources but with an economically marginalised population. Mostly
stony desert and sharp mountains, its importance lies in its strategic location, sitting astride
the trade routes (both ancient and modern) to Iran, Afghanistan and the Arabian Sea.

Balochistan’s capital is Quetta, a low-slung city with a dusty frontier ambience. Turbaned
and thickly bearded Baloch and Pashtun tribesmen rub shoulders with Afghan refugees in
its bazaars, and women dressed in billowing burkas are a common sight. For many visitors,
Quetta is all they see of Balochistan, but there are several places worth exploring nearby,
from the comparative green of Hazarganji-Chiltan National Park to the cool surrounds of
Ziarat hill station, the beloved retreat of Pakistan’s founder Jinnah.

Further from Quetta and travel becomes tougher. The long distances and poor infrastruc-

BALOCHISTAN
ture put off many travellers, so few visitors make it to junction towns like Sibi near the Bolan
Pass, famed for its cattle fair, let alone to the truly wild Makran Coast. Security also plays a
part in keeping visitor numbers low, however. A low-level insurgency by Baloch nationalists
pushes some places out of reach, while trouble from restive southern Afghanistan occasionally
spills across the border. Taking trusted safety advice before planning a trip is essential. But
for those able to make it here, the hospitality and generosity of the people of this region
is a glowing feature of any visit.

HIGHLIGHTS
Gorge on the spiced roast lamb – and the
rough frontier ambience – of Quetta (p142),
the regional capital
Quetta Ziarat
Traverse the Bolan Pass (p153) through Bolan Pass
the mountains, the old nomad’s route to Sibi
Central Asia
Chill out amid the greenery and views at
Ziarat (p151), Jinnah’s hill station retreat
Get lost amid the camel races and cultural
performances at Sibi Mela (see the boxed
text, p152), Balochistan’s biggest festival

POPULATION: 8,000,000 AREA: 347,190 SQ KM

 140 B A L O C H I S TA N • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com

History the Great tore through in 330 BC, although

Balochistan’s unforgiving landscape and even that great figure ran into trouble here,
fiercely independent peoples have made it beaten by the desert rather than the locals.
perilous to invade and – until the discovery In subsequent times the region encoun-
of natural gas – unrewarding to rule. Even tered numerous power shifts that included
today, the writ of the government is light at the Kushans, Arabs, Mongols, Persians and
best, and its inhabitants regard themselves Mughals. A unity of sorts coalesced around
as among the toughest and bravest people the Khans of Kalat in the 15th century,
on earth. These factors collide to make which prevailed until the British arrived in
Balochistan one of contemporary Pakistan’s the mid-1800s.
prime political flashpoints. Following a disastrous war in Afghanistan
Evidence from Mehrgarh – the oldest known in the 1840s, the British moved on
archaeological site on the subcontinent – Balochistan to protect their back door to
and elsewhere indicates that Balochistan was India, but didn’t formally declare the region
inhabited as early as the Stone Age and was British territory until 1887. Following this,
part of an ancient line of communication Balochistan was established as an agency
between the Indus Valley and Persia, and under the direct responsibility of the gov-
then Mesopotamia. ernor general of India, and was ruled with
Cyrus the Great conquered the inhospitable the lightest of touches. Balochi feudal chiefs
coastal belt known as the Makran in the 6th retained considerable control over the ad-
century BC. The Persians subsequently went ministration of tribal justice, collection of
on to rule all of Balochistan until Alexander revenue and levying of tribal armies, while
BALOCHISTAN

TRAVELLING SAFELY IN BALOCHISTAN

Government restrictions mean that many parts of Balochistan are either completely off limits to
foreigners or only accessible with a permit. While Quetta remains generally safe (see p145), the
ongoing Baloch insurgency, spill over from unstable southern Afghanistan and general tribal
tensions all combine to put swathes of the province out of reach of travellers.
The safety situation can change in the blink of an eye, with places that once required permits
no longer needing them and areas that were once considered safe now deemed risky. If you’re
contemplating travelling beyond Quetta, you’re strongly advised to first check the latest safety
situation with the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC; %081-825826; Azad Muslim
Hotel, Jinnah Rd, Quetta; h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Sat, to 6.30pm in summer). We’d also recommend
keeping an eye on the Balochistan Times and Frontier Post newspapers to keep abreast of the
current security climate.
Security concerns may require government-issued permits to visit certain parts of Balochistan.
Known as No Objection Certificates (NOCs), these are issued by the Home & Tribal Affairs Office
(%081-9201036; Balochistan Secretariat, Ground fl, New Block; h8.30am-2pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8.30am-noon Fri)
in Quetta. NOCs are only issued if the area you would like to visit has a current ‘low-risk’ climate.
The permits are usually required by local authorities because they can’t guarantee the safety of
travellers in these particular regions and don’t want to be solely accountable if things go wrong.
Permits should be applied for at least a few days in advance of your trip. There’s no charge, but
take along photocopies of your passport and Pakistan visa. In certain circumstances, an armed
guard from the Balochistan levies (rural police) may be insisted upon – he’ll expect tipping.
At the time of research, Quetta and its immediate environs (including Ziarat, Hanna Lake and
Urak Valley) were safe for travellers, as was travel on the road southwest to Taftan (on the Iran
border). Advice for road travel east to Punjab’s Dera Ghazi Khan (DG Khan) and Lahore changes
regularly, while the road to Dera Ismail Khan in the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP) was
regarded as dangerous to foreigners as it passes through volatile Waziristan. However, these ‘safe’
regions could change in the future, so always double-check with the PTDC. It’s often necessary
to get official permission if you intend venturing off the main highways or into the interior.
Self-drivers should stick to the main highways and avoid travelling after dark. The main train
lines are all considered safe.
lonelyplanet.com B A L O C H I S TA N • • Pe o p l e 141

BALOCHISTAN 0
0
200 km
120 miles

NORTHWEST
Lake Bund To Qila Saifullah FRONTIER
Khushdil & Zhob AFGHANISTAN PROVINCE
Khan
Pishin
Kanai Sandeman Ziarat To
To Kach DI Khan
Chaman Tangi
(50km)
& Khojak Kuchlagh Chautair
Hanna Fern Mughal
Pass Tangi Kandahar
Lake Urak Prospect E Takht-i-
Tangi Point R RANG Suleiman
KAKA

SULEIMAN RANGE
Khost To Sibi (3374m)
QUETTA Zhob
Hazarganji- Harnai Pass BA
Chiltan NP TO ZHOB
Sharan Musa
Chaman Khel
0 40 km See Enlargement Qila Saifullah
Spezand Khojak Pass Bazar
0 20 miles Pishin
Kolpur Bolan Ziarat
PISHIN Mekhtar
Mastung Pass Mach QUETTA SIBI Sanjawi Loralai
LORALAI
Rakhni
Hazarganji- Spezand Harnai
Pir Gheib Bibi Nani Chiltan Gumbaz
National Park Pass Kohlu To DG
Mastung
Mawand Khan (50km);
Dadhar Multan (145km)
Nushki Sibi
Mehrgarh KOHLU
Zãhedãn HILLS Mithri
CHAGAI Chagai Padag DERA
Road KALAT KACHHI BUGTI
Dera Bugti
Kalat KACHHI Bellpat
Taftan Nokkundi Dalbandin Padag
Yakmach PLAIN
UH Nuttal
CHAGAI K
Hamun-i- S Dera Sui
Mashkel R A Kharan Surab Murad
KHUZDAR Jumali Jacobabad
Gwalishtap KHARAN
Ma Drug Shikarpur
shk
el
E
G

Khuzdar Sukkur
Washuk
N

IRAN
Rv

BALOCHISTAN
R

SINDH
y
Sahana Hw
r

GE

y
ve

N RAN Nag

w
Wad
KIRTHAR
Ri

SIAHA Mugalgori

lH
us

na
Ind

Rakh Gajar
shan tio
Na

INDIA
v
Porali

PANJGUR
Nal R

Panjgur
Shahbaz GE
Kalat RAN
CENTRA KRAN Awaran
River

L MA
Gish Rv r
Rive Bela
Rv

Kech Rv Kil LAS

ol

Mand Hingol
ng

Turbat National BELA

Kech Valley Hoshab
Hi

Park Uthal
River MAK RAN
t THE
sh Liari
iver

T RANGE Kandracho
Da Sunstar MAKRAN COAS Hinglaj
b R

Jafri Aghor Sonmiani Hyderabad

Hu

Pasni Ras
Gwadar Kalmat Gaddani
Jiwani Gwadar Ormara
Bay Bay Sonmiami
Bay Thatta
KARACHI
ARABIAN SEA

the British controlled courts of appeal and Islamabad fanned the flames of discontent
arbitrated in intertribal disputes. until insurgency broke out again in 2005.
At the time of Partition in 1947, military Widespread violence was only temporarily
coercion forced the tribal chiefs to give up halted by the army’s killing of the Baloch na-
their powers. However, with little invest- tionalist leader Nawab Akbar Khan Bugti a year
ment in infrastructure both before and since later, and the calamity of the huge floods that
Independence, central control over the province swept Balochistan in the summer of 2007.
has remained weak, with intertribal fighting and
instability a persistent theme of recent times. People
The 1952 discovery of natural gas at Sui Almost half Balochistan’s population lives
in east Balochistan only compounded mat- within 85km of Quetta. Many are semino-
ters. Balochis saw little dividend from their madic pastoralists and shepherds. There
natural wealth and political alienation led to are three main indigenous groups – ethnic
full-blown conflict in the 1970s that saw direct Baloch, Brahui and Pashtuns – along with set-
military rule imposed on the province. After tlers from other parts of Pakistan, and a still-
two decades of relative calm, increased gas significant population of Afghan refugees. The
exploitation and political backsliding from Brahui, found largely in central Balochistan,
 142 Q U E T TA • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com

may be the last major descendants of the Indus in burkas, and honking rickshaws. Travelling
Valley civilisation, although little is known of in the other direction, Balochistan can seem
their origins. Pashtuns form the majority of a wild and dusty place after the humidity
the population in northern Balochistan, but and greenery of Punjab.
are also an important minority in the rest of At an altitude of almost 1700m, Quetta is
the province. cooler than most parts of Pakistan in summer
During the past decade, the region (es- but the road southwest to Taftan and Zahedan
pecially around Quetta) has seen an influx can still be hot and heavy going. In the thick
of Afghan refugees who have fled their war- of winter it’s bone-chillingly cold and it can
ravaged country in search of stability. snow in January.
Climate
Balochistan is outside the monsoon zone HISTORY
and experiences great extremes of climate. The town is believed to have taken its name
In winter the temperature can fall as low as from the ancient fort (kwatta in Pashto) that
-20°C in some areas. In summer it ranges protected the roads to Afghanistan, Persia
from around 18°C to 50°C, although the tem- and India. Quetta didn’t come into its own
perature has been known to edge over 50°C on until the British era and even then was lit-
the plains. The weather is at its most pleasant tle more than a small arsenal until the late
from around March to late April and from 19th century.
mid-September to November. The coastal In 1730 it came under the control of the
belt known as the Makran is mostly hot and Khan of Kalat, who made it his northern
humid throughout the year. capital. In 1876 the British administrator Sir
Robert Sandeman signed a treaty with the
BALOCHISTAN

QUETTA Khan of Kalat that handed over administration

of the strategic Quetta region to the British.
The town grew in importance, becoming the
%081 / pop 759,000 largest garrison in British India and the focus
The provincial capital of Balochistan, Quetta of British attempts to regulate the interior. But
has a quite different air from almost any- its position on a major and unstable seismic
where else in Pakistan. It’s an atmosphere fault almost reduced Quetta to rubble in 1935.
borne of its relative geographic isolation. The devastating earthquake of 31 May killed
Set in a mountainous amphitheatre and an estimated 20,000 people.
surrounded by stony deserts, the city seems Quetta’s historic ties to Afghanistan still
to have its face turned away from the rest resonate today. A host to Afghan refugees
of the country, appearing more interested since the 1980s, Quetta was a vital spring-
in nearby Afghanistan than the affairs of board to power for the Taliban, who were
faraway Islamabad. This is a frontier town, sponsored by the city’s powerful transport
pure and simple. mafias. Much of Quetta’s population (and rul-
As befits its location, Quetta’s inhabitants ers) remain highly sympathetic to the move-
are a diverse and fascinating mix. Around ment, with rumours persisting that several
70% are Pashtuns, with the balance made high-ranking Taliban leaders remain in hiding
up by ethnic Balochis and Brahuis. Mohajirs in the city.
and Punjabis are also surprisingly well rep-
resented, while since the 1980s the city has
hosted a sizable Afghan refugee population ORIENTATION
(most notably the Shiite Hazaras, with their Central Quetta is relatively easy to cover on
near-Mongolian features). foot. Most of the budget and midrange hotels
Quetta’s isolation means that it attracts are clustered around the train station in the
relatively few travellers, and the majority of southwest of town and a couple of kilome-
those use it as a staging post on the overland tres north along Jinnah Rd. The bazaar dis-
trail between Iran and India. Travelling in trict is to the east of the town centre, around
either direction, the city is an eye-opener. Mizan Chowk. The main bus stand is about
From relatively urbane Iran, Quetta abruptly 2km south of the train station. North of the
announces the arrival of the subcontinent, town centre is the cantonment, largely out
with its turbaned Pashtun tribesmen, women of bounds to civilians. The airport is about
lonelyplanet.com Q U E T TA 143

QUETTA 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles

INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Café China....................................... 37 D4

Afghanistan Consulate...................1 B5 Archaeological Museum of Balochistan Dolphin............................................38 C4
Balochistan Secretariat....................2 B5 (Quetta Museum)........................16 D5 Fruit & Vegetable Market.................39 C5
Bank of Pakistan............................3 C4 Balochistan Arts Council...................17 C5 Lehri Sajji House...............................40 C4
Bookland........................................4 C4 Mian Ismail Mosque........................ 18 D5 Sheraz Bar.B.Q.................................41 C6
Christian Hospital (Mission Usmania Tandoori Restaurant..........42 C4
Hospital)....................................5 D5 SLEEPING Xuelian...........................................(see 31)
Culture & Tourism Cell (CTC).......(see 2) Azad Muslim Hotel...........................19 B6 Ziarat Coffee Shop.........................(see 31)
DHL...........................................(see 11) Hotel al-Naeem................................20 B6
Foreigners' Registration Office.......6 D4 Hotel Bloom Star..............................21 B6 DRINKING
Friends Net................................(see 38) Hotel Deluxe....................................22 B6 Liquor Store.....................................43 C5
Habib Bank....................................7 C4 Hotel Fabs's......................................23 B6
Home & Tribal Affairs Office........(see 2) Hotel Islamabad...............................24 C5 ENTERTAINMENT
Iranian Consulate...........................8 C4 Hotel Marina....................................25 B6 Imdad Cinema.................................44 A6
Itanium Net....................................9 B6 Hotel Maryton..................................26 B6
Lady Dufferin Hospital................. 10 D6 Hotel Qasr-e-Naz.............................27 B6 SHOPPING
Library.......................................(see 17) Hotel Shees......................................28 B6 Baloch Handicraft & Carpet..............(see 4)
Main Post Office (GPO)...............11 B4 Lourdes Hotel.................................. 29 D4 Chiltan Government Handicrafts
Moneychangers...........................12 C4 Qasr-e-Gul.......................................30 C5 Centre........................................(see 17)
Muslim Commercial Bank............13 C5 Quetta Serena..................................31 C4 Rug Market......................................45 C6
Pakistan Tourism Development Zulfiqar Hotel...................................32 C6 Swiss Plaza.......................................46 C4
Corporation (PTDC)...............(see 19)
Quetta Serena Bookshop...........(see 31) EATING TRANSPORT
Sandeman Civil Hospital...............14 B6 Afghan Restaurants..........................33 C5 Air Blue..........................................(see 46)
Standard Chartered Bank............. 15 D4 Azad Muslim Hotel........................(see 19) Kurdish Coach................................(see 20)
Baig Snack Bar..................................34 C4 PIA Office........................................47 C3
To Askari Park (700m); Broast.............................................. 35 D4 Shaheen Air...................................(see 46)
Gardenia Resort (700m);
Airport (8.2km) Café Baldia.......................................36 C5 Taxi Stand........................................48 C4
)
Rd

BALOCHISTAN
on
Jail R

Tip
tt

Cantonment
(Ly

Du u
Rd
d

rra
Rd

ni
Na To Quetta Club (700m);
on

la Command & Staff College

ho

47 Museum (2km)
rg
Za

Ayub
Rd

31
Stadium 15
ah

37
n
Jin

Ha
li R 8
d Rd
Gy
m
e

kh
lleg
H

Racecourse an 29
ab

a 38
Co
ib

Rd
N

46
al

ff

12
Sta
a

42
48 34 6
11
Ashram Rd

4 7
Circular Rd 3
Liaquat 40
Sp Park
inn
Rd

y Su
Rd raj 35
36 Ga
lat

nj
a

Rd
Ad

30
Rd

5
Mannan Suraj Ganj
n
Missio

Chowk Bazaar
24 13 Iqba
l R Ali B
Rd

d aha
Rd

dur
White

Sar Rd
33
ah

(Togdar Isa
n

Mizan hi R Kha
Jin

17 Kandahari Chowk d) nR
2 Bazaar 39 d
Waf
43 a Rd 16
Al
)
Rd

am
da 18
Rd

r R
on

d
Joint

tt

Rd
(Ly

1
sjid

Liaquat
Rd

Ma

To Viewpoint Bazaar
Prin 14 10
on

Park (3.2km)
ce 28 45
ho

Rd
Rd
rg

Train
Za

at

Co
Station lvin
qu

41
Lia

Rd
27 32
Sadiq
9 Park
Rd

Ka n

Pa
ay

Rd 26 23 tel
nnah i
gh

Ji 22
s

Rd
au

20 25
Rd

19
on

To Sariab Rd Ste
wa
cC

(1km) 44 R d t r
M

21
To Main Bus Stand (1.5km);
Sadabahar Private Bus Company (1.5km);
Geological Survey of Pakistan Museum (1.5km)
 144 Q U E T TA • • I n f o r m a t i o n lonelyplanet.com

8.5km north of the centre and can be reached Frontier Post is also printed in Quetta and
by taxis and autorickshaws (see p150). covers the region well.
For a good lookout over the city, go to
Viewpoint Park, which is reached by a track Medical Services
from Brewery Rd, to the west of the train There are plenty of pharmacies around
station. It’s particularly breathtaking just Sandeman Civil Hospital and the Maryton
before sunset. and Fabs’s hotels.
Christian Hospital (Mission Hospital; %2824906;
INFORMATION Mission Rd)
Bookshops Lady Dufferin Hospital (%2836537; McConaughay Rd)
Bookland (Jinnah Rd) Has a reasonably good stock of Sandeman Civil Hospital (%9203334; Jinnah Rd)
English-language novels and Pakistan-related books as Quetta’s main hospital.
well as stocking The Economist, Newsweek and Time.
Quetta Serena bookshop (Quetta Serena hotel; Money
Zarghoon Rd) Hotel bookshop with easily Quetta’s best Changing cash isn’t a problem in Quetta, but
selection of novels, maps and coffee-table books, as well as travellers cheques frequently draw blank looks
postcards and international news magazines. from bank staff. Authorised private money-
changers are often the quickest places, operat-
Consulates ing from around Jinnah and Iqbal Rds. The
Afghanistan consulate (%/fax 9202549; Prince Rd; hours included below indicate when you are
hvisa applications 10am-1pm & 2-3pm Tue & Thu) able to change foreign currency.
One-month single-entry visas cost US$30 and are usually Bank of Pakistan (Jinnah Rd; h9am-1.30pm Mon-
issued on the day. Southern Afghanistan’s safety situation Thu, 9am-12.30pm Fri & Sat) Main branch.
is extremely volatile and nonwork travel is strongly advised Habib Bank (Jinnah Rd; h9am-12.30pm Mon-Thu,
BALOCHISTAN

against. 9-11.30am Fri & Sat) The Habib’s main branch has a
Iranian consulate (%843527; 2-33 Hali Rd; hvisa 24-hour ATM.
applications 8.30am-noon & 3-4pm Sat-Wed) A one- Muslim Commercial Bank (MCB; Iqbal Rd; h9am-
month visa costs Rs 3000 with two passport photos 1.30pm Mon-Thu, 9am-12.30pm Fri & Sat) Has a 24-hour
(women must have their head covered). Travellers report ATM.
Quetta as being an unreliable place to get a visa; check in Standard Chartered Bank (Jinnah Rd; h9am-5pm
advance, and apply in Islamabad by preference. Mon-Thu, 9am-12.30pm & 3-5pm Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat)
The most consistent place to change travellers cheques,
Emergency although there’s a daily limit of US$300 on how much
Police emergency (%15; h24hr) you can change, and a Rs 500 commission. Has a 24-hour
ATM.
Foreigners’ Registration
Foreigners’ Registration Office (FRO; %9202979; Permits
Staff College Rd) Nationals of 16 countries are required to Home & Tribal Affairs Office (%9201036; Balo-
register – see p378. chistan Secretariat, Ground fl, New Block; h8.30am-2pm
Mon-Thu & Sat, 8.30am-noon Fri) Issues permits for travel
Internet Access in Balochistan (beyond Quetta).
Most internet cafés charge Rs 15 per hour, but
as in much of Pakistan, connection speeds are Post
slow and the computers old. Most places are DHL (%9201409; GPO, Zarghoon Rd; h9am-2pm
open from around 9am to midnight. There Mon-Thu & Sat, 9-11am Fri)
are two main clusters: Main post office (GPO; Zarghoon Rd; h9am-2pm &
Itanium Net (Jinnah Rd) One of three internet cafés here, 2.30-7pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9-11am & 3-7pm Fri) At the
in the arcade behind Coca Cola–fronted juice bars and shops. intersection with Iqbal Rd. If you’re sending a parcel, men
Friends Net (Jinnah Rd) On the side street behind the sitting outside the GPO will sew it up in cheap linen for
Dolphin bakery; Ocean Net and others are also here. around Rs 20 to Rs 100 depending on the size.
Reasonably new PCs.
Tourist Information
Media Culture & Tourism Cell (CTC; %9202933; Balochistan
The Balochistan Times is the province’s Secretariat, Room 4, 1st fl, Block 4; h8.30am-2pm Mon-
English-language newspaper, although the Thu & Sat, 8.30am-noon Fri) The CTC operates resthouses
lonelyplanet.com Q U E T TA • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 145

in Ziarat, Gaddani, Gwadar and Dalbandin, and you can bloodstains still visible – used in 1919 to kill
make reservations here. a British commander. Other galleries within
PTDC office (%825826; Azad Muslim Hotel, Jinnah Rd; the complex exhibit Qurans (one written in
h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Sat, to 6.30pm in summer) the hand of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb),
Come here to get the latest travel safety advice and pick manuscripts and calligraphy. Some dusty old
up a good, free Quetta city map, as well as postcards and photos give a fascinating glimpse of Quetta
a few tourist books. The PTDC can also arrange guides before the 1935 earthquake.
and make reservations for you at PTDC accommodation The museum can be tough to find – ask
anywhere in Pakistan, and has information on trains and locals to point you in the direction of the Mian
buses. Ismail Mosque; the museum is adjacent.

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Geological Survey of Pakistan Museum

Quetta is a safe enough place to visit, by and Adjacent to Balochistan University is this
large, but you should constantly be aware surprisingly interesting museum (%9211381;
that Balochistan’s (and Afghanistan’s) po- www.gsp.gov.pk; Sariab Rd; Rs 50; h8am-3pm Mon-Thu &
litical tensions can occasionally spill onto the Sat, 8am-noon Fri). It houses a remarkable collec-
streets. Violence against police and govern- tion of geological and palaeontological items,
ment targets is not unknown, often sparked by with some particularly impressive fossil re-
Baloch rebels or as a reaction to government mains dating back as far as 500 million years.
action against Islamic militants elsewhere Prize exhibits include remnants of the giant
in Pakistan, or Western military actions in Baluchitherium (a large, 25-million-year-old
Afghanistan. We’d suggest avoiding public land mammal), a 47-million-year-old ‘walk-
demonstrations or large political gatherings. ing whale’ and a collection of meteorite frag-
While street crime is usually low, it’s best to ments. Seven galleries run the gamut from

BALOCHISTAN
avoid walking the streets alone late at night. gems and fossils to astrogeology. It’s worth
Because Quetta is a conservative society, asking the staff for a guided tour, as not all
you’re going to receive a warmer reception if exhibits are brilliantly labelled.
you dress and behave respectfully.
Command & Staff College Museum
SIGHTS This museum (Staff College Rd; admission free; h9am-
While Quetta is an old town, the 1935 earth- 1pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri) has a small private
quake destroyed any historic sights, com- collection built up during the days when the
pletely levelling the place. Instead, Quetta’s then Indian Staff College was the Raj’s answer
attractions are its rough-around-the-edges to West Point. Field Marshal Montgomery,
frontier atmosphere, particularly in evidence the WWII hero of El Alamein, was an in-
in the bazaars (p148), and its people – sitting structor here. The museum has a small but
at a juice bar or teashop people-watching is interesting collection of militaria, paintings
a great way to spend an hour or two. Quetta and photos, but you need to be an army buff
does have a few interesting museums, how- to get the most from a visit.
ever, and there’s a small British memorial to Because this is a private collection you
the (Christian) dead on Jinnah Rd near the should arrange a visit through the PTDC of-
Standard Chartered Bank. fice (see left). Take some ID along with you.

Archaeological Museum of Balochistan ACTIVITIES

This small but well-kept museum (%2833595; Art & Drama
Wafa Rd; admission Rs 50; h8.30am-2.30pm Sat-Thu, The Balochistan Arts Council (%824016; Jinnah
8.30am-12.30pm Fri), also known as Quetta Rd; h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
Museum, is tucked away just east of Mizan sometimes hosts cultural events such as art
Chowk. The galleries display figurines from exhibitions and theatrical or musical perform-
Moenjodaro in Sindh province, pottery ances – call to find out if anything is on during
pieces from sites in Balochistan, and Stone your stay.
Age implements from the Zhob, Quetta and
Kalat Valleys. Despite the name, the museum Swimming
isn’t just about archaeology. There’s also a The pool at Quetta Serena (%2820071; quetta@
stock of militaria, including a sword – with serena.com.pk; Zarghoon Rd; nonguests per day Rs 500)
 146 Q U E T TA • • S l e e p i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

is possibly the only swimming pool in Hotel Fabs’s (%2825762; Saleem Plaza, Jinnah
Balochistan where women are welcome. Rd; s/d Rs 350/450) This is a good-value choice,
but frequently full to bursting. Rooms and
SLEEPING bathrooms are slightly better than average,
Quetta has some of the cheapest accommoda- although front-of-house rooms overlook a
tion in Pakistan but there are also some more busy junction on Jinnah Rd. The attached
salubrious options for those with plumper restaurant has had good reports.
wallets. As always, earplugs are handy as lots Hotel Maryton (% 2825764; Jinnah Rd; s/d/tr
of hotels overlook busy roads. Rs 350/500/600) A fair enough option – rooms are
Winter nights are cold in Quetta, so make a bit worn (and have lots of traffic noise) but
sure you ask for an extra blanket. Hotels will are just about adequate. Good in a pinch, but
often provide gas heaters for an extra charge you can get more for your money elsewhere.
(around Rs 100), but it’s essential to turn these Zulfiqar Hotel (%2822720; Prince Rd; s/d Rs 350/500)
off before going to sleep because of the risk of This is another decent budget choice, with
carbon monoxide poisoning. rooms around a grassy courtyard that adds
a much-needed touch of green. Some of the
Budget rooms are a bit cramped but otherwise your
CAMPING money is well spent here, especially if you get
Hotel Bloom Star (%2833350; fax 2833353; 8 Stewart one of the quieter rooms at the back.
Rd; camp sites per person Rs 150, per vehicle Rs 120)
Overlanders have been pitching their tents Midrange
in the grassy courtyard of this hotel for years Qasr-e-Gul (%825192; Suraj Ganj Bazaar; s/d Rs 1050/1300;
now, and they always receive a good wel- a) A consistently good midrange hotel, set a
come. Added bonuses include secure parking block back from the bustle of the main road.
BALOCHISTAN

and helpful management who are a mine of Rooms and bathrooms are clean and well ap-
information for your onward route. pointed, and the management is helpful. Its
location near the sajji (roast lamb) restaurants
HOTELS make eating out a quick and easy option.
Azad Muslim Hotel (% 2824269; Jinnah Rd; s/d Hotel Qasr-e-Naz (% 2822821; Jinnah Rd; s/d
Rs 100/200) The cheapest of the cheap in Quetta, Rs 500/700, s/d with air-con Rs 1000/1200; a) One of the
the Azad Muslim is particularly popular with better midrange options in town. Rooms here
Japanese backpackers. Rooms are arranged are large and comfortable, so it’s often booked
around a central courtyard, and there’s a out with local businessmen. Centrally located
restaurant with a never-ending pot of dhal. with attached restaurant; cheaper rooms have
Rooms are a bit cell-like and the whole place fan only.
has a slightly grubby feel, but what did you Hotel Bloom Star (%2833350; fax 2833353; 8 Stewart
expect for the price? Rd; s/d Rs 500/600) The Bloom Star has clean and
Hotel Marina (%2847765; Jinnah Rd; s/d Rs 200/300) comfortable rooms but what’s drawn travel-
Opposite Hotel Deluxe (below). Rooms here lers here for years are the quiet location and
are basic, with a slightly stale air and the oc- leafy courtyard that’s perfect for your morn-
casionally dank bathroom. ing cuppa or chilling with a paperback – a
Hotel Deluxe (%2831537; Jinnah Rd; s/d Rs 250/500) real oasis in a dusty city. Staff are friendly
The wood-panelled lobby and bright painting and efficient, and there’s a decent restaurant
of Balochis give a good first impression here. to boot. Deservedly popular.
Rooms are fine and about what you would Hotel Islamabad (%2824006; Jinnah Rd; s/d Rs
expect for the price, but the doors and win- 550/650; a) Rooms here are reasonably good,
dows only open to a corridor along the road- and you’re well located in the middle of Jinnah
side – cosy for winter but potentially stuffy Rd (although the front rooms cop a lot of
in summer. street noise). There’s a good restaurant serv-
Hotel al-Naeem (%2830263; Jinnah Rd; s/d Rs 300/600) ing Pakistani standards that’s worth visiting
Rooms around a central courtyard are nicely even if you don’t stay here.
finished in local marble. Some could be larger, Hotel Shees (%2823015; Jinnah Rd; s/d Rs 600/850)
but all are kept clean and tidy. It’s spot-on for Another option opening straight onto Jinnah
the price, and always busy. There’s no restau- Rd. Rooms are average, and still a little gloomy,
rant, but the staff can run to room service. but the place seems to have improved slightly
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Q U E T TA • • E a t i n g 147

since our last visit. An acceptable choice if and Deluxe hotels. Kandahari Bazaar has
other midrange hotels are full. plenty of no-frills Afghan eateries.

Top End Restaurants

Quetta Serena (%2820071; [email protected]; Usmania Tandoori Restaurant (%2844127; Jinnah Rd;
Zarghoon Rd; s/d from Rs 15,000/16,000; ais) mains Rs 50-300; hlunch & dinner). One of Quetta’s
Quetta’s plushest hotel by a comfortable mar- plusher restaurants (with a hard-to-miss or-
gin, the Serena is unusual among top-end ange sign), Usmania has a wide selection of
hotels in that it looks like it actually belongs tasty dishes at reasonable prices. We particu-
to its surroundings – its design echoes local larly liked the mutton tandoori (Rs 375), a
architectural styles, with Baloch textiles, serving big enough for two with bread, salad
woodwork and local marble continuing the and raita, washed down with green Pashtun
decorative theme inside. The rooms (all tea. Service is good, and there’s a handful of
equipped with wi-fi) are suitably refined with Chinese and Continental dishes if you need
high-quality service from staff, plus there are a break from local tastes.
two good restaurants, a tennis court, pool and Ziarat Coffee Shop (Quetta Serena hotel, Zarghoon Rd;
a decent bookshop. mains Rs 120-400 plus 15% tax; a) More than just a
Gardenia Resort (%2827543; fax 2823148; Askari coffee shop, this is a proper restaurant and a
Park, Airport Rd; s/d Rs 1700/3000; a) If you want to good place for a splurge. Come for high tea
relax a little out of town, this secluded and (4pm to 6pm) and an array of sandwiches,
unpretentious retreat is worth considering. salads, cakes and pastries. If you visit after
Surrounded by towering, barren mountains, that the menu turns Italian, with everything
the Gardenia has a tranquil, homey personal- on offer from lasagne to tiramisu. Expect to
ity with pleasant rooms and courteous staff. pay around Rs 500 for the whole meal. Open

BALOCHISTAN
Askari Park itself is popular with families at 24 hours.
weekends. A rickshaw from Jinnah Rd costs Xuelian (Quetta Serena hotel, Zarghoon Rd; mains
about Rs 40 (one way). Rs 130-300 plus 15% tax; hlunch & dinner; a) Pakistani
Lourdes Hotel (%829656; fax 841352; Staff College versions of Chinese food often don’t run to
Rd; s/d Rs 1800/2300; a) Faded around the edges much more than sweet-and-sour and chow
and overpriced, the rooms and service at mein, but the Serena’s more formal restaurant
Quetta’s oldest hotel are decidedly average. offers a much broader spectrum, in appropri-
Nonetheless, it’s a Quetta institution with ately swanky surroundings.
distinctive old-world charm and a lovely gar- Lehri Sajji House (%2821255) Prime among
den. Rooms are comfortable enough, if some- the cluster of sajji restaurants clustered in
times creaky, and some are lacking in natural this area, this place could hardly be more
light, so inspect a few if possible. There’s an basic, with plastic tables and chairs spilling
attached restaurant. out onto the road. But the sajji (Rs 340) is
fantastic – great hunks of lamb spit-roasted,
EATING with crackly skin and sticky fat. It’s better if
Dining out in Quetta is a meat-based experi- there’s more than one of you dining as you
ence, and aside from the usual kebabs, karai get a leg of lamb to yourself; there’s also whole
(braised meat cooked with vegetables served chicken cooked in the same delicious way. It’s
in a pan) and biryani options, there are a cou- just off Jinnah Rd.
ple of local specialities worth checking out. Gardenia Resort (%827543; Askari Park, Airport Rd;
First among these is sajji, a whole roasted leg mains Rs 60-300 plus 15% tax; hlunch & dinner; a) In
of lamb, lightly spiced and eaten with paper- a calm locale well away from the centre, this
thin traditional bread and goat’s milk yoghurt. resort’s restaurant serves Pakistani, Chinese
Slightly harder to find is landhi, whole lamb and some Continental food. You can choose
skinned and hung in the open (in shade) or from the whole spectrum – mutton karai
a cold room for 30 to 45 days during winter. (Rs 110), Mongolian beef (Rs 120) or a good
Quetta’s Afghan connections mean that qabli club sandwich with fries (Rs 85). The desserts
pilau (rice with meat and raisins) appears on are pretty good too.
plenty of menus. Café China (Staff College Rd; mains Rs 65-210;
There’s a slew of cheap Pakistani restau- hlunch & dinner) A good place for Chinese
rants on Jinnah Rd between the Azad Muslim food, where portions are generous. There are
 148 Q U E T TA • • D r i n k i n g lonelyplanet.com

steaming bowls of noodle soup (Rs 50) and also buy nuts and dried fruit. The peaches,
plates piled high with everything from beef grapes, cherries, musk melons and mangoes
chop suey (Rs 170) to a broad selection of are especially delicious, sold by mobile ven-
vegetarian dishes. dors when in season, along with fat pome-
Sheraz Bar.B.Q (Fateh Muhammad Rd; mains Rs 45-220; granates from across the Afghan border.
hlunch & dinner) A busy eatery if you just need
to fill up and go. Sheraz is great for tradi- DRINKING
tional Pakistani cuisine, with a decent selec- Teashops are dotted around town if you need
tion on offer from tikka chicken (Rs 80) and a chai, along with a plentiful supply of thirst-
garlic naan (Rs 15) to huge plates of biryani quenching juice stalls. When in season, it’s a
(Rs 110). hard call as to which is better – the creamy
Azad Muslim Hotel (Jinnah Rd; mains Rs 15-45; mango smoothies or the sharp and invigorat-
hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Typical of the simple ing pomegranate juice (both around Rs 20).
restaurants along Jinnah Rd, this hotel restau- While Balochistan is literally Pakistan’s dri-
rant dishes up cheap, filling servings of dhal, est province, alcohol can be bought for private
beans and a variety of hard to classify but tasty consumption. There’s a liquor store on Jinnah
meat curries. Fuel up for less than Rs 80. Rd selling a selection of the Murree Brewery’s
finest. Although technically an alcohol permit
Quick Eats is required (the PTDC can help you out), in
In Quetta you’re never too far away from a practice a quick flash of a non-Pakistani pass-
stand selling samosas or other fried snacks. port was enough to secure a bottle when we
When it’s cold, look for stalls selling piping- visited. Always be discreet with alcohol – carry
hot murgh kai (peppery chicken soup; Rs 10 it in a bag and never consume it in public.
to Rs 15).
BALOCHISTAN

Baig Snack Bar (Jinnah Rd; mains Rs 30-70; hlunch & ENTERTAINMENT
dinner) A solid fast-food option where burgers Askari Park (Airport Rd; admission Rs 5) More a family
and sandwiches won’t set you back more than theme park, where you can get out of the city and enjoy
about Rs 40. There are big bowls of sticky ice some open space and clean air. There’s a jogging track and
cream, rose-water faluda (sweet vermicelli) children’s park along with the Gardenia Resort hotel and
and fruit juices for afters. restaurant (see p147).
Café Baldia (cnr Adalat & Iqbal Rds; mains Rs 35-80; Imdad Cinema (Jinnah Rd) This cinema sticks to trusted
hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) One of Quetta’s old- favourites – Bollywood singalongs, Pashtun gun movies
est eateries, the Baldia attracts an interesting and Hong Kong beat-’em-ups.
crowd who congregate here to chat, read the Quetta Club (%2822847; Club Rd, Cantonment) If
newspaper or just chill out. It’s an atmos- you can get someone to sign you into this members-only
pheric spot to sit back with a cup of tea or club (off limits to the public), you can use the golf course,
light bite (sandwiches from Rs 20) and simply squash club and eat at the restaurant.
engage in people-watching.
Broast (Saleem Heights; mains Rs 40-200; hlunch & SHOPPING
dinner) Away from the downtown action, the Balochistan is known for its marble and onyx.
Broast is a fast-food joint that whips up beef Most of this goes straight to Karachi’s bazaars,
burgers with cheese (Rs 35), full roast chickens and although Quetta is a good place to pick
(Rs 200), mango shakes (Rs 25) and more. it up – often carved into goblets or paper-
Dolphin (Jinnah Rd; sweets from Rs 5; h9am-11pm) weights – prices aren’t noticeably cheaper than
Quetta has plenty of bakeries but this is our elsewhere in the country.
favourite, with its mind-boggling array of Better deals can be had with textiles. The
crunchy cookies, sticky sweets and gooey bold geometric designs of Baloch carpets and
cakes. Just browsing is enough to give you woven kilims make superb souvenirs, while
toothache, but there are a few savoury sand- less bulky options include embroidered shirts,
wiches and pizzas that make good snacking. caps and cushion covers, often inlaid with tiny
mirrors. Traditional jewellery is also worth
Self-Catering looking out for. Afghan traders have a big
There’s a fruit and vegetable market by the slice of the handicrafts market.
main bus stand and a more convenient one Chiltan Government Handicrafts Centre (Jinnah Rd)
just south of Mizan Chowk, where you can A reputable (fixed-price) place to start your
lonelyplanet.com Q U E T TA • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 149

search for local handicrafts and get an idea of security situation can affect whether you are
quality and prices. allowed to travel by public transport – dur-
Baloch Handicraft & Carpet (Jinnah Rd) A wide ing research we were prevented from trav-
variety of stock, from carpets to Baloch wed- elling on the direct Quetta–Peshawar bus,
ding dresses. for instance.
Swiss Plaza (Hali Rd) Some good handicraft Minibuses leave every hour or so for
shops are on the arcade below the airline Ziarat (Rs 50, 2½ hours), less often in win-
offices. ter. There are also regular minibuses to Sibi,
Rug Market (Masjid Rd) If you’re specifically Nushki, Kalat, Khuzdar and Chaman, and
looking for carpets, head to the wholesale rug many direct buses to Loralai. There are di-
market on Masjid Rd. Apart from the wide rect buses to Gwadar, via Turbat.
variety, the prices are also pleasing – but you’ll There are several air-con private bus
still have to haggle. companies at the main bus stand, includ-
Other places worth a look include the ing Sadabahar Private Bus Company (%2452290),
streets northwest from Mizan Chowk to the which has services to Multan (Rs 675, 13
cloth markets of Kandahari Bazaar; southwest hours, daily), Karachi (Rs 380, 12 hours,
to the fruit and vegetable market; and north- six daily), Lahore (Rs 700, 20 hours,
west to Suraj Ganj Rd for Sindhi caps, shawls daily), Peshawar (Rs 810, 24 hours, daily),
and more. South of Mizan Chowk is Liaquat Rawalpindi (Rs 7800, 23 hours, two daily)
Bazaar, which is also worth a wander. and Taftan (Rs 350, 13 hours, four daily).
Kurdish Coach (no phone; Jinnah Rd) has a daily
GETTING THERE & AWAY service to Taftan (Rs 350, 13 hours). A hand-
Quetta is a substantial distance from any other ful of other bus companies also operates of-
major Pakistani city. The main highways spoke fices on the lower part of Jinnah Rd with

BALOCHISTAN
out from Quetta to Taftan, Karachi, Jacobabad services to Taftan. Note that most Taftan
and Dera Ghazi (DG) Khan. Off these roads buses travel overnight, arriving at the Iran
there are few services and travel is often re- border in the early morning. For more on
stricted without official permission (consult the Iranian border, see p387.
the PTDC office). For more information, see
Travelling Safely in Balochistan (p140). Taxi & 4WD
For taxis to Hanna Lake and Urak Valley
Air (Rs 1200 return trip, Rs 500 to Hanna Lake
Given the distances to other Pakistani cities, only) or Ziarat (Rs 2500), try the taxi stand
this may be one of those occasions when you on Adalat Rd or inquire at your hotel.
break the overland creed and fly. Competition Most midrange or better hotels can also
between the three airlines keeps prices com- organise 4WD transport if you’re head-
petitive, but flights can fill quickly. ing to the interior; alternatively, ask at the
Air Blue (%2830124; S5/S37, Swiss Plaza, Hali Rd) Has PTDC office (p145) when you’re finding out
a daily flight to Karachi. about permits.
PIA (%9203861; 17 Hali Rd) Has daily flights to
Islamabad (Rs 6250, 85 minutes) and Karachi (Rs 6250, Train
50 minutes), as well as flying four times a week to Lahore Quetta’s train station is very ordered com-
(Rs 4090, one hour) and twice weekly to Gwadar. A direct pared to others in Pakistan. Tickets are sold
Quetta–Peshawar service is planned. at the train station’s reservation and booking
Shaheen Air (%2832645; S3, Swiss Plaza, Hali Rd) Flies office, and foreigners and students are enti-
daily to Karachi and twice weekly to Lahore. tled to special concessions – see p391.
Major trains from Quetta are listed on
Bus & Minibus p150, but note that timetables and fares
Long-distance services operate from the are likely to change during the life of this
main bus stand, sometimes referred to as book. You can double-check at the station
the New Quetta Bus Stand, or Bus Adda. or direct with Pakistan Railways (%117; www
It’s about 1.5km south of the train station. .pakrail.com). The newspaper stand at the sta-
Buses (Rs 4) and autorickshaws (about tion sometimes sells copies of the book-
Rs 20) go there from Jinnah Rd and from let Time & Fare Table (Rs 25), which is
near the train station. Note that Balochistan’s updated twice yearly.
 150 A R O U N D Q U E T TA • • H a n n a L a k e & U r a k Va l l e y lonelyplanet.com

MAJOR TRAINS FROM QUETTA

Destination Train Departure Duration Fare
Chaman Chaman Passenger 7am 4½hr Rs 50 for A
Karachi Bolan Mail 4.15pm 20hr Rs 350/743 for A/G
Lahore Quetta Express 10.30am 24hr Rs 520/911/2284 for A/G/F
Jaffar Express 3.30pm 20hr Rs 630/1510 for A/C
Chiltan Express 1.45pm 26-27hr Rs 520/911 for A/G
Multan Quetta Express 10.30am 18hr Rs 325/400/720/1789 for A/B/G/F
Peshawar Quetta Express 10.30am 35hr Rs 575/650/1181/2293 for A/B/G/F
Rawalpindi Quetta Express 10.30am 29hr Rs 525/600/1080/2723 for A/B/G/F
Jaffar Express 3.30pm 29hr Rs 715/1760 for A/C
Taftan Taftan Express 12.30pm 24hr Rs 500/956 for B/G

Abbreviations:
A = Economy (seat) D = Air-conditioned lower (berth) G = First-class sleeper (seat)
B = Economy (berth) E = Air-conditioned parlour H = First-class sleeper (berth)
C = Air-conditioned lower (seat) F = Air-conditioned sleeper

GETTING AROUND be reached by pedal boat. There are several

Quetta’s centre is relatively easy to cover on cafés and drink stands for refreshments.
foot. Buses run from the main bus stand to the Water levels fluctuate according to winter
train station and then up Zarghoon Rd. They rainfall, but the lake had largely recovered
from the drought of several years ago when
BALOCHISTAN

then proceed south down Jinnah Rd before

returning to the bus stand. Away from these we visited.
roads the most expedient way to get around From the lake it’s an 11km drive up the
is by autorickshaw. Agree a fare before jump- Urak Valley to the more picturesque picnic
ing in – you shouldn’t pay more than about site of Urak Tangi. The countryside is beautiful
Rs 25 for autorickshaw travel anywhere in the in spring and autumn, with apple orchards,
immediate town area. roses and fruit gardens in full bloom. It
There’s no airport bus. A taxi from the often snows between December and March,
airport to Jinnah Rd costs around Rs 250 (15 and from July to September most vegeta-
minutes), or Rs 100 by rickshaw. tion takes a rest. At the head of the valley is
There are taxi stands on Circular Rd and a waterfall.
at Liaquat Park. Hiring a taxi for a half/full There are cheap minibuses direct to Hanna
day should cost about Rs 600/1200, including Lake from Quetta, particularly between Friday
waiting time. and Sunday when families head there for pic-
nics. Alternatively, a return taxi to Hanna
Lake and Urak Tangi costs about Rs 1200
AROUND QUETTA (Rs 500 return to Hanna Lake only).
There are several sights close to Quetta worth
checking out that give the lie to Balochistan’s HAZARGANJI-CHILTAN NATIONAL
reputation as a flat, dry and featureless PARK
province. This 15,555-hectare national park in the
mountains, about 20km southwest of
HANNA LAKE & URAK VALLEY Quetta, is a showcase of the sort of ecosys-
Ten kilometres east of Quetta, Hanna Lake is a tems that were once far more widespread in
popular weekend destination with locals. On Balochistan. Amid juniper, pistachio, almond
a road skirting foothills and scrubland, this and ash trees, a huge variety of bird life is
small natural lake is surrounded by khaki present, from tiny warblers to vultures and
hills (khaki literally means ‘dust’ in Pashto), eagles. Harder to spot is the impressive array
in stark contrast to its glassy blue-green of large mammal species. The most nota-
waters. A lookout has been built on a cliff, ble is the Chiltan markhor, a wild goat that
and the tiny artificial island in the lake can now only persists in the park boundaries.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A R O U N D Q U E T TA • • Z i a r a t 151

Wolves, leopards and striped hyenas are Pilgrims come here to visit the ziarat
also present, along with smaller species like (shrine) of the famous Muslim saint Mian
porcupine. Abdul Hakim (also known as Kharwari Baba),
The park is a protected area watched over who fled here from Kandahar in Afghanistan.
by rangers who may be able to show you The shrine is 3km from the Quaid-i-Azam
around. It’s particularly attractive in the Residence.
spring when wildflowers abound. Permission
to visit must be obtained from the Divisional Activities
Forestry Office (%081-9211648; Sabzal Rd, Quetta), Ziarat and the surrounding valley offer sev-
where you can also book accommodation eral pretty and easy walks. The Chashma Walk
at the park’s resthouse (only for day use). leads 1.5km up from Ziarat to the spring that
There isn’t any public transport to or from provides water to the town. A longer walk
the park so you’ll need to hire a car. The from Ziarat town follows the road (or the
entrance is only a couple of kilometres from water channels on the hillsides) 6km south,
the main Quetta–Mastung road. The PTDC veering east to Prospect Point. It’s quicker to
office in Quetta (see p145) can provide start from the Quaid-i-Azam Residence, al-
more details. though you still have to tackle the steepest
part from here. At a height of 2700m, the
ZIARAT point offers glorious views over the whole
The old British hill station of Ziarat was valley. Further round are views of craggy
founded as a retreat from Quetta’s summer Mt Khalifat (3487m), which is still snow-clad
heat. It nestles in its eponymous valley, sur- in April.
round by ancient juniper forests at an altitude Other popular hiking destinations include
of 2600m, about 130km northeast of Quetta. the cascade at Sandeman Tangi, 4km northwest;

BALOCHISTAN
With a residency, offices and even a sanato- Chautair, 20km further east; and the waterfall
rium, it served as the administration’s sum- at Fern Tangi, 1.5km south of the main road
mer capital, and now carries a slightly worn to Quetta from a point 10km west of Ziarat.
(though attractive) ‘end of empire’ feel. There are plenty of other attractive trails to
Refreshingly cool in summer and almost explore if you plan on spending a few days
invariably snow-clad in winter, Ziarat is a in Ziarat.
relaxing destination and a handy base for
exploring the surrounding gorges and bald- Sleeping
ing hills of juniper. Don’t get your hopes up There are several good options, although
too high, though – this may be lush for stark they are heavily booked in summer. Ziarat’s
Balochistan, especially in spring, but northern hotels largely close down in the winter, but
Pakistan it isn’t. you can usually find something available. The
PTDC office (%081-825826; Azad Muslim Hotel, Jinnah
Rd; h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Sat, to 6.30pm in summer)
Information in Quetta can make reservations. Rooms
PTDC office (%0833-410356) Located at the PTDC at the CTC must be booked in advance at
Complex, this office is open throughout the tourist season the Quetta CTC office (%081-9202933; Balochistan
(April to October). Free sketch maps of the valley are Secretariat, Room 4, 1st fl, Block 4; h8.30am-2pm Mon-Thu
available. & Sat, 8.30am-noon Fri).
PTDC Complex (%0833-560356; s/d Rs 1550/1900)
Sights This 18-room complex is the pick of the
The British weren’t the only ones to appreciate bunch, offering the usual reliable but unfussy
Ziarat – so too did Mohammed Ali Jinnah, the PTDC service. There’s a restaurant, although
Quaid-i-Azam (Great Leader). Jinnah spent the breakfasts are a bit overpriced.
his last days here in 1948, suffering from CTC Tourist Rest House (s/d Rs 300/400) One
the cancer that killed him. The Quaid-i-Azam kilometre further along the Loralai road
Residence (h9am-4pm; Rs 50) is the former resi- from the PTDC Complex, this is not as
dency of the agent to the governor general, conveniently located nor as comfortable as
built in 1882. The furniture is left just as it the PTDC.
was when Jinnah stayed here before returning Shalimar (%0833-410353; s/d Rs 300/400-550) Near
to Karachi to die. the main bus stand, this is a good option for
 152 A R O U N D T H E R E G I O N • • Q u e t t a t o S i b i lonelyplanet.com

BALOCHISTAN’S BIG DAY OUT

Sibi is famed for its annual fair, the Sibi Mela or Shahi Durbar (Royal Meeting). The tradition is
said to date back to around the 15th century, when tribal chiefs held occasional assemblies here.
It still serves the same purpose today, but over the years it has expanded to become a fixed an-
nual event attracting participants from throughout Balochistan and beyond. The British revived
the durbar in 1882 as a means of publicly ‘rewarding’ those feudal chiefs who had demonstrated
their loyalty to their new masters.
The festival centres on the horse and cattle fair but is accompanied by cultural shows, camel
and horse races, and music. It’s a great place to search for tribal handicrafts such as silk and
cotton embroidery, ceramics, leatherware and articles woven out of the fibres of the hardy pish
(dwarf palm) that flourishes even in the harsh Balochistan desert.
The festival is usually held in the first half of February and lasts for a week, although prepara-
tions get under way early and people often start trickling in from January. It can be difficult to
find accommodation – seek assistance from the PTDC office in Quetta (see p145).

the price, with clean rooms and a restaurant. The larger settlement of Mach, further
Open all year. along the road beside the railway line, is a
Shangrila (%0833-410311; s/d/tr Rs 300/400/600) typically dry and dusty collection of mud
Another decent choice for the price, similar huts. About 24km beyond Mach, after sev-
in style to the Shalimar. eral coalmines, a rough track running right
Several dreary cheap hotels huddle around off the main road leads to Pir Gheib. This
the bus station, along with various eating beautiful rockpool is fed by a cascade and is
BALOCHISTAN

options serving karai and the like. enclosed by cliffs and trees. There’s another
pool with calmer waters slightly downstream.
Near the pool is a small shrine to a saint.
Getting There & Away Foreigners need a special permit to come to
Numerous minibuses travel here daily from
both the shrine and Pir Gheib – for the latest
Quetta (Rs 50, 2½ hours), although their fre-
details ask at the PTDC office in Quetta (see
quency drops considerably out of season. A
p145). With your own vehicle, a day trip from
taxi will set you back around Rs 2500.
Quetta is just about feasible.
Five kilometres beyond the turning to Pir
Gheib is Bibi Nani, the site of a historic bridge
AROUND THE REGION washed away by heavy rains in 1986.
Just off the main road, 26km before Sibi,
Travel in Balochistan can be a tough prop- the tiny settlement of Sirajabad is set in a small
osition. Roads are often poor and facilities forest at the base of a hill. It has an attractive
lacking. On top of this, security concerns rockpool where you can swim, with both hot
mean that permits are required for almost and cold water. This is one of the most pleas-
all destinations outside the main transport ant retreats in Balochistan.
corridor from the Iran border through
Quetta to Jacobabad in Sindh (see Travelling
Safely in Balochistan, p140). That given, the
SIBI
Sibi can be very hot. ‘Oh Allah! When you
stark scenery can be dramatic, ranging from
created Sibi, why did you bother to conceive
stony moonscape deserts to rocky moun-
of hell!’ is the popular exhortation of the locals
tains and the occasional hidden oasis, mak-
who endure the region’s scalding summers,
ing travelling here never anything less than
when the mercury pushes towards 50°C.
an adventure.
Sibi owes its importance to its strategic po-
sition at the mouths of the Bolan and Harnai
QUETTA TO SIBI Passes on the old trade routes to Afghanistan,
The village of Kolpur, 24km south of Quetta, but it’s cut off from the rest of Balochistan by
lies at the entrance to the Bolan Pass. The formidable mountain ranges.
Bolan River rises near here, and Kolpur has Little is known of its early history, although
many fruit orchards and date palms. it has been a settlement of some importance
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A R O U N D T H E R E G I O N • • M e h r g a r h 153

and the main market town of the region for Rd. Hotels will almost certainly insist that
many centuries. There are references from the you register with the police before being al-
time of Alexander the Great to a place that lowed to check in.
may have been Sibi. Legend records that it was
the capital of Sewistan, one of the seven Hindu Getting There & Away
kingdoms that predate Islam. Mohammed All trains to/from Quetta stop at Sibi (five
bin Qasim, the Muslim Arab invader of the hours). There are also buses and mini-
subcontinent in the 8th century, captured it, buses to/from Quetta (three hours), Ziarat,
as did Mahmud of Ghazni in the 11th cen- Loralai, Khuzdar and Fort Munro, leaving
tury, after which it was coveted, besieged or from the bus station in the southern part
occupied by various rival dynasties. In 1487 of town.
it briefly became capital of a unified Baloch
kingdom under Mir Chakar. MEHRGARH
In 1878, after an earlier assault on the At the foot of the Bolan Pass, just south of
town in 1841, the British captured Sibi the Quetta–Sibi highway, Mehrgarh is the
and renamed it Sandemanabad, for Robert earliest archaeological site known on the
Sandeman. The most imposing of the extant subcontinent. It was first unearthed in the
buildings from the British era is the 1903 1970s by French archaeologists, a discovery
Queen Victoria Memorial Hall, now named that has significantly boosted knowledge of
Jirga Hall. It is so named because it was the the Neolithic precursors to the Indus Valley
assembly chamber for the British and the civilisation. However, there’s not much to see
leading tribal notables during the annual so it’s really only for those with a specialist
jirga (council of tribal elders) held during interest. It’s also rather difficult to reach.
the Sibi Mela. It now houses the small ar- Mehrgarh is the site of the first known farm-

BALOCHISTAN
chaeological and historical Sibi Museum (Masjid ing society in Pakistan, and predates not only
Rd; hclosed Wed). the Indus Valley civilisation but also the civi-
The 15th-century ruins of Mir Chakar’s Fort lisations of ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia.
lie on the outskirts of Sibi. There’s also an It’s believed to have been inhabited from the
old caravanserai (traditional accommodation first half of the 7th millennium BC (possibly
for camel caravans), the Sohbat Serai, con- even earlier) until about 2000 BC. Not only
structed by tribal chief Sadar Sohbat Khan. did its inhabitants raise domesticated cattle
and goats, cultivate cereal crops and make
Sleeping bone, flint and (much later) simple copper
There’s a paucity of accommodation in Sibi. tools, they were also the first known den-
Try the basic Saqi Hotel (Jinnah Rd), Al-Karam tists, with several skeletons with drilled teeth
Hotel (Jinnah Rd) or other cheapies along Jinnah discovered at the site. All such advances are

THE BOLAN PASS

The famous Bolan Pass is a vital link in the main route between Afghanistan and Sindh, and
both the railway and the road through the pass make for very dramatic travel. In spring long
processions of nomads and camel caravans wind through the pass, bringing livestock and wares
to sell in Quetta.
The pass stretches for 87km from Kolpur to Rindli, rising from 230m to about 1800m. For many
centuries it has been the route taken by invaders, soldiers, traders and nomad caravans between
Central Asia and India, and inevitably it has been the site of many battles.
On their way to fight in the two Anglo-Afghan wars of 1839 and 1878, British troops crossed
the pass from Sindh but at the expense of immense physical hardship and casualties. With persist-
ent fears of Russian expansion into India, the demand for a secure line of communication with
the sensitive borders of Persia and Afghanistan became acute. When the British first occupied
Balochistan, the pass was nominally under the control of the Khan of Kalat but in practice several
tribal chiefs also had interests in it and shared a right to the tolls imposed on people travelling
through it. In 1883 the British obtained jurisdiction over the pass in return for paying annual
subsidies to the Khan and the various sardars (tribal chiefs and nobles).
 154 A R O U N D T H E R E G I O N • • T h e A fg h a n B o r d e r lonelyplanet.com

unknown anywhere else in the same period the Chaman Passenger train departs Quetta
outside west Asia. daily each morning.
Later it appears that there was an estab-
lished professional class of artisans, and that QUETTA TO KARACHI
ceramics were manufactured on a large scale Kalat
for export. Handicrafts include human and Seat of the once mighty Khans of Kalat who
animal figurines, beads of terracotta and hem- dominated Balochistan from the 15th cen-
atite, storage jars, copper pins, seals and ivory tury until the arrival of the British, Kalat is
work – many decorated in colour with styl- 143km south of Quetta. Despite being in
ised motifs. Through these and other finds, an important date-producing area, it’s one
there is evidence of trading links with Central of the coolest places in Balochistan, with
Asia, Afghanistan and Persia. The best items temperatures frequently below freezing
are on display at the National Museum of in winter.
Pakistan in Karachi (p164), including some The town was almost destroyed in the
prodigiously hipped and breasted female fig- 1935 earthquake that also rocked Quetta,
ures, as well as a few pieces at the museum and the imposing hilltop miri (citadel) of
in Sibi (p153). the Khans of Kalat, which once dominated
The site is spread over a large area but the town, is now in ruins. The rubble of an
the main excavation is concentrated on one ancient Hindu temple of Kali lies beneath
low constructed mound, where around 20 the fortress.
rooms have so far been discovered and about The modern town is of little interest, al-
100 skeletons have been dug up from the though the bazaar is worth a stroll through.
large necropolis. There are several equally unappealing sleeping
Your own transport is essential for reach- options in the bazaar.
BALOCHISTAN

ing Mehrgarh. Tribal insecurities mean that

the Balochistan Secretariat in Quetta often Kalat to Karachi
advises travellers to take armed levies (rural Southwards, the paved road continues for
police) and to report to the Sibi Deputy around 160km from Kalat on to Khuzdar,
Commissioner’s office (between Railway which is a better place to break a trip than
Rd and Jinnah Rd). Consult the PTDC of- Kalat. Accommodation options here include
fice in Quetta (p145) for current information (in order of quality) the PTDC Motel (%Quetta
and advice. PTDC office for reservations 081-825826; s/d Rs 600/800),
Saarc Hotel (%0871-412421; s/d Rs 250/500) and the
THE AFGHAN BORDER yet more basic Faisal Hotel (%0871-413792; s/d
Like the Bolan Pass further east, the Khojak Rs 100/200).
Pass has been crossed by a procession of in- From Khuzdar it’s about 220km south to
vaders and traders. The top of the pass gives Bela – the burial place of Sir Robert Sandeman,
views down into Afghanistan. Victorian Balochistan’s most renowned ad-
From Quetta the railway stretches 110km ministrator – in the district of Las Bela. From
before reaching its peak (2370m) about 6km Bela the paved road continues to Uthal and
after Shelabagh, and then descending into the Gaddani before reaching Karachi.
4km-long Khojak Tunnel.
Chaman, the Afghanistan border post, has Hingol National Park
traditionally been a major conduit for smug- About 100km southwest of Bela (although
gling, dominated by the Achakzai Pashtuns best accessed from Sindh via the Makran
whose lands straddle the border. Coastal Hwy) is the 619,043-hectare Hingol
At the time of research, Chaman was National Park. The park is on the Hingol
deemed unsafe for foreigners. A permit is River along the Sindh–Balochistan border
needed to travel here, and is unlikely to be and is home to marsh crocodiles, Olive Ridley
issued unless you have a good reason, such turtles, leopards, Persian wild goats, hyenas,
as crossing the border on business. For cur- spot-billed pelicans and the Houbara bustard.
rent details ask at the PTDC office in Quetta Hingol has been identified as an area of global
(p145). In the unlikely event the security significance for its diverse ecosystems, en-
situation is deemed safe enough, a taxi to dangered wildlife and importance as a winter
Chaman costs about Rs 300 per person, while habitat for migratory birds. Next to the park is
lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D T H E R E G I O N • • Q u e t t a t o D e r a G h a z i K h a n 155

the pilgrimage centre of Hinglaj, site of a mela The Makran has always been a wild and
(fair) in March/April. untamed place. Alexander the Great came
The park is beautiful but very remote, seriously unstuck here on his return from
and can only be reached by 4WD via the India, when his army became lost in the
town of Aghor. You’ll need to be totally desert with the loss of thousands of men
self-sufficient, as there are no tourist facili- to hunger and dehydration. The Arabs and
ties. Check with the PTDC in Quetta (p145) Persians made brief coastal contacts with the
before travelling. Makran soon after converting to Islam, but
the area was otherwise ignored by outsid-
QUETTA TO DERA GHAZI KHAN ers. In the mid-18th century it fell under the
The road from Quetta to DG Khan in Punjab control of the Khans of Kalat, who admin-
is little used and is a direct and adventurous istered it through a representative known
route. You’re likely to attract the attention as the nazim. The British exerted very little
of the police should you show up here – we direct control over it.
were advised against taking this route when Communications with the interior have
we researched this book. From Quetta buses always been tenuous. The massive distances
to Ziarat normally go via the crossroad towns and poor road conditions – and recent po-
of Kuchlagh, Kanai and Kach. In spring there litical sensitivities – make it difficult to get
are many nomad families camped on the side here (see Information, below).
of the road. About 63km east of Ziarat is the The coast is great for fishing, especially
transit town of Sanjawi, from where pick- for shellfish. Traditionally, Makranis have
ups depart for Loralai. For more information migrated for work, especially to Oman and
about DG Khan, see p133. the rest of Arabia, and traded by sea with
the ports of the Persian Gulf, Arabian Sea

BALOCHISTAN
Loralai and Indian Ocean. The development of the
This wild Pashtun bazaar town is a logical place new port at Gwadar is currently driving the
to break a journey. There’s not much to see, local economy.
but the bazaar is bursting with bushy beards Much of the region is mountainous. There
and huge turbans and should be a fascinating are three main ranges: the Makran Coast
place for a ramble, although there are plenty Range (up to about 1500m), Central Makran
of guns on display and several travellers have Range (2000m to 3000m) and Siahan Range
reported feeling less than welcome here. (1000m to 2000m). The cultivated areas of
Registering with the police is essential the Makran lie sheltered between these barren
for getting a room in Loralai. The CTC Tourist ranges. The coast is consistently hot; the Kech
Resthouse (r Rs 300) is the most comfortable op- Valley around Turbat is dry and temperate in
tion, although it’s inconveniently located in winter but oppressively hot in summer; and
the cantonment, north of town; you must the Panjgur region is bitterly cold in winter
make advance reservations at the CTC office and moderately hot in summer.
(%081-9202933; Balochistan Secretariat, Room 4, 1st fl, There are no permanent rivers of any con-
Block 4; h8.30am-2pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8.30am-noon Fri) sequence, so agriculture relies on springs
in Quetta. and underground watercourses. Dates, co-
Cheaper and grubbier options at less than conuts and bananas are important cash
Rs 100 a head include Al Habib Hotel and crops, along with grains and pulses for
Pakeeza Hotel. local consumption.
Several daily buses and minibuses run
to Quetta (five hours) and DG Khan (nine Information
hours). The authorities do their best to dissuade
foreigners from visiting the Makran. The
THE MAKRAN Baloch insurgency continues, with regular
The region bordering the Arabian Sea is bomb and rocket attacks against the govern-
known as the Makran, a harsh desert land- ment, gas pipelines and railway. The PTDC
scape bound by the coast on one side and low office in Quetta (see p145) is best placed
mountains on the other. Its name is thought to provide you with current details about
to be a corruption of the Persian mah khoran the security situation. If safe, travellers re-
(fish eaters), for its original inhabitants. quire a No Objection Certificate for travel
 © Lonely Planet Publications
156 A R O U N D T H E R E G I O N • • T h e M a k r a n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

BOOM TIMES FOR THE MAKRAN?

Just a few years ago Gwadar was a sleepy fishing town, never likely to trouble the nation’s atten-
tions for more than a minute. Today business is booming and a new port is promising to improve
Pakistan’s connection to world trade routes. The difference? A big pile of Chinese cash.
Just as the Karakoram Highway helped cement relations between the two countries in the
1960s, Gwadar holds the same promise today. The rapidly expanding Chinese economy has driven
it to seek out ever-new trade routes for its products and energy supplies. It’s estimated that
Beijing has already poured around US$250 million into Gwadar – a port that’s closer to China’s
resource-rich western provinces than they are to Shanghai.
Not everyone is happy with the new arrangement. Balochis point to the fact that eight out
of 10 families in the province lack clean water. Their sense of alienation has helped fuel attacks
on an infrastructure they claim is doing nothing to help them, with Islamabad simply mining
the region for profits yet again. Further afield, some Western observers fear Chinese plans are
a security threat, claiming the port could be used by the Chinese navy, and that China is trying
to muscle in on Central Asia’s energy supplies – much in the same way that the Soviet Union’s
invasion of Afghanistan was once seen as an attempt to gain a foothold in the warm waters of
the Arabian Sea. Once neglected, this obscure corner of Pakistan has suddenly become some-
thing of a player.

(see Travelling Safely in Balochistan, p140) – harvested, and the curiously eroded moun-
these weren’t being issued for the Makran tainsides along the road to Turbat.
during our research. Other possible destinations near Gwadar
BALOCHISTAN

include the coastal fishing towns of Pasni

Sights & Activities and Jiwani.
There are few actual sights in the Makran. The
main reason to come here is simply because Sleeping
no-one else does. New developments are constantly being
Gwadar is the most developed town along announced in Gwadar, with several hotel
the coast. The Portuguese briefly occupied it complexes planned on the West Bay side,
during the 16th century, then a century later including a Pearl Continental Hotel. While
the Khan of Kalat gave it as a gift to the rulers many of these were still on the drawing board
of Muscat. Together with about 800 sq km of at the time of our research, there should be
the surrounding country, it remained under several half-decent hotels available should
the rule of Muscat through a resident gover- you get there.
nor until 1957, when the Sultan of Oman sold
it to Pakistan. In the last few years Gwadar has Getting There & Away
boomed, with massive Chinese investment in PIA (%081-9203861) operates a direct Quetta–
its port (see the boxed text Boom Times for Gwadar flight every Monday and Friday.
the Makran? above). The old bazaar and fish There are also flights from Gwadar to Karachi
market are on Gwadar’s East Bay side. on Monday and Friday.
Nearby are long stretches of deserted The recently completed Makran Coastal
beaches, a few of which have even been surfed Hwy connects Gwadar to towns along the
by a few hardy Western wave-catchers. Other coast all the way to Karachi. A paved road also
nearby attractions include the intriguing connects Gwadar to Turbat, and is currently
mud volcano of Koh-e Mehdi, where salt is being extended to Quetta.

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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 © Lonely Planet Publications
157

Sindh
Sindh is named for the great Indus River that carves its way through the plains of the
province, bringing it to life. The Indus has bought favour and failure to Sindh throughout
its history, nurturing the Indian subcontinent’s first great civilisation at Moenjodaro and
Harappa six millennia ago, while shifting its course to push later dynasties out of the spot-
light and leave the region languishing without influence until it was claimed for the British
empire in the 19th century.

For the traveller to Sindh, the British legacy is everywhere to see. The damming of the
Indus at Sukkur in the 1930s transformed the dry plains into rich agricultural land, turning
the region into the country’s breadbasket. Its bakers – the big landowning farmers – still
hold great sway in national politics today. An equally big transformation was wrought away
from the river, turning a sleepy fishing town into the booming port of Karachi. In the 21st
century, the city is Pakistan’s economic powerhouse and a true mega-city, sucking in migrants
from across the country, all hoping to strike it rich. Those that have flaunt their wealth in
trendy restaurants and expensive property near the beach.

The rest of Sindh’s attractions are more modest, from the archaeological site of Moen-
jodaro to the Mughal mosques of Thatta. But wherever you go you’re unlikely to run into
many other travellers. Persistent political insecurity in Sindh means that taking trusted safety
advice before travel is essential before setting out, as is keeping an ear to the ground when
you get there.

HIGHLIGHTS
Be seen with the great, the good and the
SINDH

beautiful at one of Karachi’s trendy

restaurants (p170)
Moenjodaro
Contrast old empires with modern commerce
through Karachi’s British-era architecture
(p166) and modern bazaars (p171)
Take a boat trip along the coast to the
islands (p167) and beaches (p167 and p167)
within an easy hop from Karachi
Explore the ruins of Moenjodaro (p176),
greatest city of the ancient Indus Valley Karachi
civilisation Thatta

Admire the cool blue tiling of the Mughal

mosque of Thatta (p175), built for Shah
Jahan of Taj Mahal-fame

POPULATION: 34,231,000 AREA: 140,914 SQ KM

 158 S I N D H • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com

SINDH 0
0
100 km
60 miles

To Quetta To Dera Ghazi Khan

Rahim
Jacobabad Yar Khan
Kandhkot PUNJAB
BALOCHISTAN
JACOBABAD Hwy
al
Shikarpur N ation
SHIKARPUR
Shahdadkot
Sukkur
SUKKUR
Kambar Rohri
Larkana Khairpur
LARKANA
g e

River
Kot Diji
Moenjodaro
R a n

s
du
In
y
s Hw

DADU
Jaisalmer
Indu
t h a r

Dadu
Khudabad
Moro INDIA
K i r

KHAIRPUR
NAWABSHAH
Na

Sehwan Sharif
tio
na

Nawabshah
Manchhar
l
Hw

Lake
y

Sann Shahdadpur Sanghar RAJASTHAN

SANGHAR
Ranikot
Fort
Hala Khipro Barmer
Khokhropar
Bhit Shah Sindhri
Kirthar
Liari National Mirpur Khas
Park

Kotri Umarkot
Gaddani Gaddani Hyderabad
Beach
rH wy Tando
upe
River

S Muhammad
See Greater Karachi Map (p160) Khan
Keenjhar
Lake Great Thar
KARACHI
Haleji Makli Tando Bago Naukot Desert
Lake Hill
s
du

Mithi
Cape
In

Banbhore
Monze Thatta BADIN Badin
Gharo Gujjo
Sujawal
Nagar
Parkar
ARABIAN Jati
SEA THATTA
Mo
ut
hs

of
Th
e In GUJARAT
d us
SINDH

History short-lived with the arrival of the Abbasid Arabs

The Indus River has acted as the cradle of civi- from Baghdad under Mohammed bin Qasim in
lisation on the Indian subcontinent, particu- 711, marching under the newly green banner
larly where it passes through Sindh. Around of Islam. Sindh remained under the Abbasid
6000 years ago, some of the world’s first urban caliphate until 874 and under Arab domination
cultures sprang up in the region, reaching until the indigenous Muslim dynasty of the
their zenith in the great city of Moenjodaro. Sumras seized power in about 1058.
Some millennia later, Sindh was annexed Dynasties came and went for several
by the Persian empire, to be subsequently hundred years until 1520, when Sindh was
invaded as Alexander the Great tore through brought into the Mughal empire by Akbar,
the region in 326 BC. When the Greeks pulled himself born in Umarkot in Sindh. Mughal
out, the Buddhist Mauryan dynasty stepped in rule from their provincial capital of Thatta
and ruled the whole of Sindh until the early was to last in lower Sindh until the early 18th
2nd century BC. century. Upper Sindh was a different picture,
Sindh’s history is little recorded from here however, with the indigenous Kalhoras hold-
until Hindu Brahmins briefly took control in ing power, consolidating their rule until the
the 7th century AD, although their reign was mid-18th century, when the Persian sacking
lonelyplanet.com K A R A C H I 159

TRAVELLING SAFELY IN SINDH

Karachi carries a heavy reputation in terms of safety, as a result of the perennial communal violence
that characterised it in the 1980s and ’90s. As a general rule, this is largely a thing of the past,
although the killing of unarmed demonstrators at a rally in May 2007 and subsequent tensions
means that the potential for trouble – in the context of wider Pakistani politics – is never too far
from the surface. Steer clear of any street demonstrations. In addition, Western targets, such as
consulates, have been subject to attack from Sunni Islamist groups and these present a potential
risk to visitors. On the whole, however, Karachi remains a calm city to visit, although it’s essential
for travellers to keep abreast of current events prior to and during travel. Local newspapers and
your country’s embassy are useful ways of gauging the current security concerns.
In wider Sindh, the situation is relatively calm, although we suggest obtaining advice from
Karachi’s Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation office (PTDC; p164) before heading off on
a trip. Dacoity (banditry) is not unknown in parts of rural Sindh, and on occasion armed guards
may be advised for some areas. In the recent past this has included Moenjodaro, a major site
for visitors to Sindh. We would caution against all travel by night.

of the Mughal throne in Delhi allowed them the undisputed heart of the nation’s economy.
to grab the rest of Sindh. A true world mega-city, greater Karachi is
Sindh became a relative backwater, a state spread over an ever-expanding 3500 sq km,
that only changed when the British seized it in perpetually sucking in workers from across
1843 on the flimsiest of pretexts, as a military re- the country. If you want to make it any-
storative after their thrashing in the first Anglo- where, the saying goes, you have to head for
Afghan war – ‘like a bully who has been kicked Karachi.
in the street and goes home to beat his wife in As a result, Karachi is one of the most di-
revenge,’ wrote a contemporary critic. The small verse and cosmopolitan cities in Pakistan,
port of Karachi came into its own, expanding with ethnic Sindhis matched by large num-
rapidly and eventually becoming Pakistan’s bers of Punjabis, Pashtuns and other na-
capital upon Independence in 1947. tionalities. After Partition, Karachi received
Sindh’s big landowning families (including significant numbers of Mohajirs, who have
that of the late Benazir Bhutto) and Mohajirs since become the key players in Karachi poli-
(Urdu-speaking refugees from newly formed tics under the MQM party that dominates the
India) continue to play a strong role in Pakistani city. Karachi also has significant Christian
politics, in power and opposition, although the and Hindu communities, and is a centre
province frequently hits the headlines these days for Zoroastrianism.
for its increasing susceptibility to natural disas- This diverse mix doesn’t always rub along
ters, such as the calamitous floods of 2007.
SINDH

well, and has given Karachi an unenviable

reputation for civil unrest and communal
Climate violence. The 1980s and ’90s were punctu-
The most pleasant time to visit this province is ated by regular outbreaks of rioting, and al-
from late November to mid-February. Sindh’s though these are now largely a thing of the
summer temperatures range from about 27°C past, real tensions still exist. The shadow of
to 50°C. The coast can reach humidity levels of 9/11 has also fallen on Karachi, with attacks
over 65% during the summer monsoon (July on Western targets and minority Shiites from
through September), but temperatures do ease Al-Qaeda–inspired extremists.
off slightly at night. In winter the nights can be Few travellers choose to visit Karachi these
surprisingly cool, so you’ll need warm clothes. days, and the insane traffic and frequent power
cuts from an overstretched infrastructure can
KARACHI make any stay a challenge, particularly in the
stifling heat of summer. But there’s a defi-
%021 / pop 14 million nite buzz here, and a few days in Karachi can
Although Karachi lost its crown as Pakistan’s tell you more about life in modern Pakistan
capital to upstart Islamabad and the country’s than any number of historic mosques or
cultural elite look towards Lahore, Karachi is mountain treks.
 160 K A R A C H I • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com

HISTORY ORIENTATION
Karachi’s importance as a natural harbour Karachi sprawls like no other city in Pakistan,
at the mouth of the Indus was not lost on which can sometimes make it hard for first-
the British, but being isolated by vast areas time visitors to grasp its layout.
of desert clearly stunted the imaginations of The centre, with its many hotels, busy shop-
earlier rulers. It was a neglected possession ping district and British-era buildings, is known
of the Khan of Kalat until 1789, when it was as Saddar (or Saddar Bazaar). On the skyline,
ceded to the Talpurs of Balochistan. high-rise hotels Sheraton and Avari Towers
The Talpurs erected a mud fort, yet Karachi act as landmarks. The Three Swords and Two
remained a small fishing village until 1839, Swords Roundabouts help visitors get their
when the British started showing an interest in bearings heading towards the southern seaside
Sindh. Sir Charles (later Lord) Napier sent HMS district of Clifton. This is one of Karachi’s most
Wellesley to Karachi. On its approach the Talpur exclusive areas and is next to the equally well-
rulers ordered a display of cannon fire for the to-do DHA (Defence Housing Authority).
visitors. This possibly misinterpreted welcome The airport is about 10km from central
brought about the capture of the town with- Karachi heading east from Saddar along
out bloodshed. Four years later, with Karachi Shahrah-e-Faisal Rd. The Cantonment
as their naval base, the British had annexed Railway Station is south of Dr Daud Pota
all of Sindh and shifted the capital here from Rd in Railway Colony district, while the
Hyderabad, with Napier as the first governor. City Railway Station is on the south side of
By 1847 Karachi’s population was 50,000 Chundrigar (formerly McLeod) Rd.
and construction took on a rapid pace. Streets
were laid, highways and railways constructed, Maps
port facilities improved and Gothic and Major bookshops sell maps of Sindh; those
Victorian buildings erected. Prominent exam- published by Lion Art Press are particularly
ples include Frere Hall, the Sindh High Court, good. The PTDC office (p164) has a useful
the Sindh Assembly Building, St Andrew’s free fold-out map of the city.
Church, St Patrick’s Cathedral and Empress
Market (see the boxed text, p166, for these INFORMATION
sights). From the mid-19th century, Karachi Bookshops
overshadowed Hyderabad as the commer- Karachi has a good selection of bookshops,
cial, educational and administrative centre offering everything from Sindh history to
of Sindh. Karachi was Pakistan’s capital from Harry Potter.
1947 until the new city of Islamabad was des- Ferozson’s (Map pp162-3; Clifton Rd; %5830467)
ignated capital in 1959. Liberty Books (Map pp162-3; %5374153; Block 5,

GREATER KARACHI 0
0
10 km
6 miles
SINDH

To Gaddani Hub
Beach (25km) Halkani
BALOCHISTAN

New To Hyderabad
Rangeji Manghopir (180km)
Gondbas Karachi
Metan Super H
Mochko wy
Hu

Mai Garhi
d
pir R
b

Gabopat
Rd Shah

Rd Karachi
Riv

r Chhatara Orangi
ive
gho

an
er R

bR st University
er

Township
ki
Man

Sh

Hu North Pa
d

Moach SITE Jinnah

Mendiari Baldia Nazimabad Rd International
Azizabad
Colony lar y Airport
i rcuway Nazimabad ersit
Mauripur C ail iv
Village R Liaquatabad Un
Allah Bano Lal Bakhar Mauripur
Rd Chaukundi
Mann Baleji Salt
Bay Rd Pan Malir Hwy
w kes Channel River N ational
Ha Hawkes S Baba To Banbhore (37km);
French Baleji an Korangi
Bay ds Thatta (61km)
Paradise Beach Beach pi
Cape Point t See Karachi
Monze Keamari
Baba Map (pp162–3)
Island Bhit
Island Clifton
Gh Cr

Manora Clifton C
gi reek
izr eek

ARABIAN SEA Island Ferry Beach ran

i

Ko
lonelyplanet.com K A R A C H I • • I n f o r m a t i o n 161

THE EDHI FOUNDATION

In a country whose population is frequently left to provide for themselves, the Edhi Foundation
(Map pp162-3; %2421920, 2424125; www.edhifoundation.com; Rangila St, Boulton Market, Sarafa Bazaar) has
been filling many of the holes left in the state health-care system for the last 50 years.
Its founder, Abdul Sattar Edhi, was born in Gujarat, India but came to Karachi after the upheav-
als of Partition. Something of a philanthropist, he opened a free dispensary from the proceeds
of the shop he was running, buying an ambulance to collect unclaimed dead bodies soon after
a flu epidemic swept the city in 1957. His actions brought him local acclaim, and a flood of
donations allowed him to found the Edhi Foundation, dedicated to helping the poorest sections
of the population on a nondenominational basis. With the help of his wife Bilquis, a nurse, the
foundation expanded into maternity care and adoption services for abandoned babies. Today
Edhi virtually runs a parallel health-care network to that of the government.
The foundation has 250 centres of varying size across the country, including eight hospitals
in Karachi alone. It has a fleet of over 400 ambulances (including air ambulances), operates
humanitarian services for refugees and has played an important role in relief work in the
Kashmir earthquake in 2005 and the floods in Sindh and Balochistan in 2007. There are nearly
20 homes for abandoned babies, along with blood banks, dispensaries and even shelters for
rescued animals. The foundation plans to expand into drug rehabilitation and has announced
an ambitious plan to build trauma centres every 100km on the national highways to reduce
road deaths.
The Edhi Foundation is funded entirely by private donations, around 90% of which comes
from within Pakistan. Donations from the government and religious organisations are politely
declined. Along with its services, this independence makes it one of the most highly regarded
institutions in the country.

Com 5/1 Boat Basin) Near Bar.B.Q. Tonight. Also branches Internet Access
at Park Towers, and Sheraton and Marriott Hotels. Internet outlets open and close with reckless
Thomas & Thomas (Map p165; %5682220; Liaquat Rd, abandon, so ask your hotel which is the closest.
Saddar) Prices are around Rs 40 an hour, but don’t expect
broadband. Two convenient joints in Saddar:
Cultural Centres Cyberwaves (Map p165; Dr Daud Pota Rd) Next to Gulf
Karachi hosts plenty of cultural events, Hotel.
from art exhibitions to concerts and plays. Internet Centre (Map p165; Dr Daud Pota Rd) Next to
Local newspapers have listings of forthcom- Chandni Hotel.
ing attractions. Particularly active cultural
Medical Services
SINDH

centres include:
Alliance Française (Map pp162-3; %5862864; Block Aga Khan University Hospital (Map pp162-3;
8, Plot St-1, Kehkashan, Clifton) %4930056; Stadium Rd) One of the best hospitals in
Arts Council of Pakistan (Map p165; %2635108; Pakistan.
MR Kayani Rd) Probably the best place to see musical and Jinnah Hospital (Map pp162-3; %9201300; off
theatrical performances. Sharah-e-Faisal Rd)
British Council (Map pp162-3; %111424424; c/o Brit-
ish Deputy High Commission, Shahrah-e-Iran Rd, Clifton) Money
There are plenty of banks and private money-
Emergency changers in Saddar and along Chundrigar Rd;
Edhi Trust Ambulance (%115) ATMs are equally common. The airport banks
Police (%15) are open 24 hours. It’s easier to change cash
though – travellers cheques will probably find
Foreigners’ Registration you directed to the American Express office
Foreigners’ Registration Office (FRO; Map pp162-3; at the Shaheen Complex:
%9212611; Central Police Station, Chundrigar Rd) Only American Express (Map p165; %2630260; Shaheen
nationals of 16 countries are required to register; see Visas, Complex, Dr Ziauddin Ahmad Rd; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm
p378. Mon-Thu, 9am-12.30pm & 3-5pm Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Also
 162 K A R A C H I lonelyplanet.com

KARACHI
To Manghopir
(25km)

Ma
e
Av

ngh
te r Rd
ta

opi
Es
Dhobi Ghat ta
(Great Laundry) sh
Ni

r R
.

d
er
ri Riv
Lya

d
nR
Kha Zoo

Rd
Jam
am
Ad

Chak

r Wara

ila S

Rd
Ma r z a
u Mi a

n
To Hawkes ripu Kh

t
iwara
Bay (19km) rR a

bha
d

r
Du
Ta
At

m
Rd

ad
nn
m

Ku

m
e
ar

ry

am
Liyari
am

N ew
Mauripur
Rd

oh
Railway
Pr

M
Station ir
it
am

q
See Central Karachi Map (p165)

Fa
da
s
Rd

A bd
Lea Rd
h

ulla
Market na
23 Jin
Rd

h
t
ir S A

Har
t ha M
ar

sh Jo Bazaar
Wazir Mansion Ni Rd

oon
uat
Na

Railway Station
Liaq
p ie

Rd
r R

Boulton
id Rd
d

Dr
Sarafa Market 11
Zia hah
ud rS
Bazaard din wa
p nR 5 Sar d
am ha 15 Ah rR
Jodia ma da
Sw R d Railway dR ad
K

ve Bazaar at 8 d -i-S
a

u n
ro q Stadium a
Ag

Memon Lia
Mosque d Aiw
g

ar f R d u n dr ig ar R
an

West W h Mereweather C h
M

Tower 4
KPT Railway City
Fishing Station Railway
Harbour Station
MTK
han R
d d
a nR
17 M T Kh
West
Wharf

Keamari
Harbour
Rd

East
le

Wharf Mangrove Swamp

Mo
SINDH

Ch
r
pie

irm
Na

a
Cr
ee
Shipyard k
Bath
Island
nel
ChBaba
an

Khayaban

Keamari 20
i
aad

Boat
e-S

Basin
an-

Keamari
yab

Railway Rd
Station Ghalib Ghalib
Kha

Rd Clifton 3
Keamari 19
Boat Basin
-

Fird 22
ah

o us Rd
r
ah

Marine Prom Kehkashan

Sh

ena de

16

To Evolution (2.5km);
Ferry to Purple Haze (2.5km);
Manora
Island Clifton Café Zouk (5km)
ARABIAN SEA Beach
lonelyplanet.com K A R A C H I 163

0 2 km
0 1.0 miles

Rd
1

ty
rsi
d
To Super Hwy (12km); Stadium R

ive
Hyderabad (170km)

Un
Rd
ngir
Bu
s in

Jeha
es
s Re

12
co

Rd
rde

n ah
rR

Jin
A
d

M
d
Garden gR
an
rJ
Rd

r Ya
du
ir

ha 14
shm

To Pakistan Air Force Base & Museum (1km);

Ba Pechs Pakistan Maritime Museum (1.5km);
Ka

S ha Jinnah International
hid Airport (2.5km)
-i-M
i

lla
Rd

tR
iq

d
Q
Tar

ua
idi
n
Rd

d
nR
-Ira
h-e
h ra
S ha
Saddar
(Saddar
Bazaar)
Dr
Da ja Gh

9
ud
Ra

Abb

d
al R
Pot azanfa

e- F a i s
asi

rah-
aR

Sha
h
Sha
d

hid
r A Fatim

Rd
li R

7
d aJ
inn

Cantonment
ah

Railway
Station
Rd

Railway 10
Colony
Khayaban

Race
Course
-i-Iqbal

SINDH

Three Swords 21 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Roundabout
Defence Housing Authority Mosque
(Masjid-i-Tuba).............................10 F4
t Blvd Karachi Metropolitan Development
Sunse Corporation Building....................11 C3
Khayaban-i-Jami KDA Officers Club.............................12 F1
-i-Rumi Mohatta Palace................................13 E6
6
Quaid-i-Azam Mausoleum................14 E2
DHA Wazir Mansion.................................15 B3
Ziarat of Abdullah Shah Ghazi......... 16 D6
INFORMATION
Aga Khan University Hospital.............1 G1 SLEEPING
Two Swords
Roundabout Alliance Française...............................2 E6 Beach Luxury Hotel..........................17 B4
Rd

British Council..................................(see 3)
Rd
Clifton

British Deputy High Commission.........3 E6 EATING

n

Central Police Station.........................4 C4 Arizona Grill.....................................18 E6

Ira

Za
e-

mz Edhi (Head Office)..............................5 C3 Bar B Q Tonight...............................19 D6

lvi am Ferozson's...........................................6 E5 Beach Luxury Hotel........................(see 17)
m A a
Hati Bl
vd Foreigners' Registration Office Boat Basin Restaurants.....................20 D5
Rd 13 18 (FRO)...........................................(see
Kh 4) Thai Seafood.................................... 21 G5
ay
Jinnah Hospital................................... 7 F3
2 ab
an
Liberty Books.................................(see 19) SHOPPING
-i-
Ha
Liberty Books (Branch)...................(see 22) Park Towers..................................... 22 D6
fiz
Main Post Office (GPO)..................... 8 C3
Sindh Tourism Development Corporation TRANSPORT
(STDC) Office.................................9 E3 Lea Market Bus Stand......................23 C3
 164 K A R A C H I • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com

has a Western Union counter for international money (also called the Quaid-i-Azam, or ‘Great
transfers. There’s also a branch of HSBC and a 24-hour ATM Leader’), who died here in 1948. There are
in the same complex. several sights linked to him, plus a variety of
museums and British-era buildings. You can
Post top things off – and get a blast of fresh air –
Main post office (GPO; Map pp162-3; Chundrigar Rd) with a trip to the beach.
Near the City Railway Station.
Saddar post office (Map p165; cnr Sarmand & Abdullah National Museum of Pakistan
Haroon Rds, Saddar) Opposite St Andrew’s Church. Pakistan’s history, from early man to
Independence, is well represented at this mu-
Telephone seum (Map p165; Dr Ziauddin Ahmad Rd; admission Rs 200;
If you need to make a call, you’re never h10am-1pm & 2-5pm Thu & Sat-Tue, 9am-noon Fri).
likely to be more than a minute away from The main galleries are upstairs. After a
a public call office (PCO) booth. To find quick survey of Stone Age axes from Sukkur
local numbers, call %17. The Karachi City and Rohri, the museum gets into its stride
Guide (Rs 250), sold at most bookshops, is with displays of some of the finest Indus
an excellent guide-cum-phone directory of Valley civilisation artefacts. The 6000-year-
business, updated twice annually. old pottery from Mehrgarh is quite lovely
and surprisingly delicate, and is followed
up by a room dedicated to Moenjodaro and
Tourist Information Harappa. The iconic ‘priest-king’ bust is just
Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation of- one of many highlights, alongside a large
fice (PTDC; Map p165; %9206381; Shafi Chambers, Club array of fertility goddess cult figures, jewel-
Rd; h8am-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8am-noon & 1-6pm Fri) lery and seals covered with the mysterious
Staff here are friendly and give good travel information Moenjodaran script.
about Karachi and surrounds, as well as free maps. The The next room shifts the focus forward
PTDC can also advise on travel in greater Sindh (including to Buddhist Pakistan, with displays of
security information), help arrange guides, vehicle hire Gandharan art and an array of carved schist
and trips to Moenjodaro. statues, mainly from Taxila and Takht-i-Bahi.
Sindh Tourism Development Corporation office The Islamic room next door has a small sec-
(STDC; Map pp162-3; %7788530; 1st fl, 114-115 Block tion on the early Arab settlements of Debal
C, Sea Breeze Plaza, Shahrah-e-Faisal Rd; h9am-1pm & and Mansura, but is poorly labelled and only
2-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri) The place to visit to the 13th-century pottery from Persia really
book accommodation at Haleji Lake (p175), Sehwan Sharif stands out.
(p176), Great Thar Desert (p176) and Larkana (see p179). The ‘Freedom Movement’ gallery has a col-
Can also help arrange guided tours in Sindh. lection of photos, paintings and newspaper
articles relating to the Independence move-
Travel Agencies
SINDH

ment, frustratingly labelled mostly in Urdu.

Travel agencies are 10 a penny in Karachi, Other rooms have items of ethnological inter-
although few are geared to domestic tour- est, including regional costumes from across
ism. For flights, there’s a good cluster of Pakistan, traditional jewellery, militaria and
agencies around Abdullah Haroon and wooden burial totems from the Kalasha val-
Club Rds in Saddar, where many airlines leys in North-West Frontier Province.
also have offices.
Aero Travels (Map p165; %5223211; Abdullah Haroon Rd) Quaid-i-Azam Mausoleum
Bukhari Travels (Map p165; %5685111; Club Rd) This elegant mausoleum (Map pp162-3; MA Jinnah
Travel Walji’s (Map p165; %5660248; 13 Services Rd; admission Rs 100; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm Thu & Sat-Tue,
Mess, Mereweather Rd) Can organise tours in Sindh, as 9am-noon Fri) is both a monument and tomb
well as flights. to Jinnah. It’s a starkly modernist building
Zeb Travels (Map pp162-3; %2411204; Hasrat pointing both to Pakistan’s past and future.
Mohani Rd) An unadorned white marble cube is pierced
on each side by a high and narrow arch, and
SIGHTS then topped with a semicircular dome raised
Karachi is known as the ‘City of the Quaid’, 31m high. Built between 1958 and 1968, the
for Pakistan’s founder, Mohammed Ali Jinnah simple design works surprisingly well, and sits
lonelyplanet.com K A R A C H I • • C e n t r a l K a r a c h i 165

CENTRAL KARACHI 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles

41
To Quaid-i-Azam
Mausoleum (1km)
Cinemas

Dr
Da
Bazaar

Abd
Empress

Z ai

ud
36
Market

ulla

b un

Pot
8
Rd

aR
-N i
h 48
na

Har
Jin

sa

d
16
Rd Dar-i-Mehtar

o
A 15

St
Pr

on
M di nd
ee

St ma (Zoroastrian Place
Sar Bohri of Worship)

Rd
Bazaar

Mi
5
42 26 28 Saddar

Raj

rK
6 (Saddar Bazaar)

ar
25

aG
30 Rd

am
23 17 21
Iraq

h az
Rd 22
Sohtrak

uat

Ali
Ka d

Liaq

anf
rab

20
R

Tal
rAa

pu
rR
liRd
33 38

d
27
14 37
d
hid R 44
r Sha
Sindh Secretariat Sarwa
(Tughlaq House) 40 43

Zainab 32
d
Market

R
13 51

al
ai s
d 46
Strachen R

F
52

-e-
35

r ah
12 2 d 18
iR 11

ah
n Rd Sh
Dr ya d ar
Zia Ka Sad 50
u dd R
a n-i- 7
39
in M Aiw 24
Ah 1 9
d ma
Chundrigar R d
Rd Bagh-i- 3 45
Quaid- Metropole
To City Railway Hotel
Station (1km) i-Azam 4 49 19
Fat

Dr
ima

Da
ud
Jinn

Pot

To Cantonment
ah
Abdu

INFORMATION
Railway Station
aR
Rd

American Express...............................1 A3 31 (250m)

d
lla

ATM..............................................(see 24)
h Har

Arts Council of Pakistan.....................2 A3 M T 34 Bagh-i-Jinnah

ha n (Gardens)
Bukhari Travels...................................3 C3 K Rd 47
oon R

Cyberwaves...................................(see 21) 10
Internet Centre...............................(see 20)
d

29 Railway
Liberty Books (Branch)...................(see
d 29) Colony
nR
Liberty Books (Branch)...................(see 34)
Kha
in Development
Pakistan Tourism dd Corporation
a m i zu
lv i
MouOfficeT (PTDC)................................4 C3 Hotel Karachi....................................23 B2
Saddar Post Office..............................5 B2 Hotel Mehran...................................24 C3
Thomas & Thomas.............................6 B2 Hotel Ocean.....................................25 B2
SINDH

Travel Walji's.....................................7 C3 Hotel Reliance..................................26 C2 To Clifton

Western Union.................................(see 1) Hotel Sky Towers.............................27 C2 (1km)
Hotel United....................................28 C2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Marriott Hotel..................................29 C4
Avari Tours....................................(see 18) Paradise Hotel..................................30 B2 SHOPPING
Empress Market..................................8 C1 Pearl Continental..............................31 B4 Bohri Bazaar.....................................42 C2
Flag Staff House.................................9 C3 Regent Plaza Hotel...........................32 D3 Zainab Market.................................43 C2
Frere Hall (Jinnah Hall & Library)......10 C4 Sarawan Hotel..................................33 C2
Kh

Holy Trinity Cathedral......................11 C3 Sheraton Hotel.................................34 B4 TRANSPORT

ay
ab

Jinnah House Museum.....................(see 9) YMCA..............................................35 B3 Aero Asia......................................... 44 D2

an
Khayaban-i-

Marriott Hotel................................(see 29) YWCA..............................................36 A1 Aero Travels.....................................45 C3

-i-
Ha

National Museum of Pakistan...........12 A3 Air Arabia.......................................(see Race

49)
fiz

Pearl Continental............................(see 31) EATING Air Blue............................................46Course

B3
Sindh Assembly Building...................13 A3 Alpha...............................................37 C2 Blue Lines Bus Station...................... 47 D4
Iqbal

Sindh High Court..............................14 B2 Krispy Broast Chicken.......................38 C2 British Airways................................(see 29)

Sindh Wildlife Management Board..(see 35) Royal Elephant...............................(see 31) Buses & Minibuses............................48 C1
St Andrew's Church..........................15 B1 Sakura............................................(see 31) Cathay Pacific Airways.....................49 C3
St Patrick's Cathedral........................16 D1 Village Garden Restaurant................39 C3 Gulf Air............................................50 D3
Indian Airlines..................................(see 1)
SLEEPING DRINKING Iran Air...........................................(see 24)
Bath
Al-Bilal Hotel....................................17 B2 Excise Department............................ 40 A2 KLM.................................................(see 4)
Island
Avari Towers....................................18 C3 PIA Office.........................................51 B3
Bloom Luxury Hotel.........................19 D3 ENTERTAINMENT Shaheen Air......................................52 B3
Chandni Hotel..................................20 C2 Capri Cinema....................................41 B1 Singapore Airlines............................(see 7)
Gulf Hotel........................................21 C2 Nishat Cinema................................(see 41) Thai Airways..................................(see 49)
Hotel de Paris...................................22 C2 Prince Cinema................................(see 41) Travel Walji's...................................(see 7)
See Karachi Map (pp162–3)
 166 K A R A C H I • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com

on a square pyramidal platform in the middle from the politicians and lost every war it’s
of a spacious park. contested? The answer is just to focus on
the hardware. This impressive outdoor mu-
Flag Staff House & Wazir Mansion seum (off Map pp162-3; PAF Base Faisal; admission Rs 50;
Also known as Quaid-i-Azam House, this h8am-10pm) does just that. Over 30 aircraft
imposing British Raj mansion (Map p165; Fatima are on show, including an Indian Gnat that
Jinnah Rd) was once owned by Mohammed Ali was captured by Pakistani forces in 1965.
Jinnah. It was built over 100 years ago and has Guided tours are free, and it’s blissfully un-
extensive grounds. His sister, Fatima Jinnah, crowded on weekdays, making it a fine escape
lived in the house from 1948, and it’s now from the rat race.
home to the Jinnah House Museum (Quaid-i-Azam
House Museum; Map p165; h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Thu & Pakistan Maritime Museum
Sat-Tue, 9am-noon Fri). It’s beautifully maintained; Close to the PAF Museum, and just as well
you can see Jinnah and Fatima’s private apart- maintained, is the Pakistan Maritime Museum (off
ments, with period furniture and accessories – Map pp162-3; Habib Ibrahim Rehmatullah Rd; admission Rs 50;
well worth a visit. h9am-10pm). Galleries branch beyond the navy
A second Jinnah Museum is Wazir Mansion into general maritime history and sea life,
(Map pp162-3; Newnham Rd), where Jinnah was born and there are some good outdoor exhibits –
and brought up. The house contains a few we particularly liked the midget submarine
relics related to the revered leader. Advance and mine sweeper.
warning is needed to visit, and should be
arranged through the PTDC office (p164). Defence Housing Authority Mosque
(Masjid-i-Tuba)
Pakistan Air Force (PAF) Museum Surely Pakistan’s most eccentric mosque, this
Pakistan’s plentiful military museums always truly odd structure was built in the late 1960s.
pose a problem – how to celebrate an in- The low-slung mosque is contained under
stitution that has repeatedly seized power one vast dome with no supporting columns

KARACHI’S BRITISH RAJ BUILDINGS

Karachi has a fine stock of British-era buildings, mostly concentrated in the Saddar area. Their
style is frequently called Mughal-Gothic, blending subcontinental themes and the traditional
architecture of Victorian Britain to create something quite unique.
One of the most splendid examples is Empress Market (Map p165), named for Queen Victoria
and built in 1889. It’s one of Saddar’s main landmarks and dominates its surroundings with its
grand 50m clock tower. It still serves as a market, and the labyrinthine covered bazaar inside is
a rude contrast to the mighty exterior.
SINDH

Spiritual needs were also served, and provide some of Karachi’s finest remaining examples of
British Raj architecture. The Anglican Holy Trinity Cathedral (Map p165; Zaibun-Nisa St) has some
fascinating plaques inside erected to the memory of British soldiers who died in various cam-
paigns. The Anglican St Andrew’s Church (Map p165; cnr Sarmand & Abdullah Haroon Rds), and the
Roman Catholic St Patrick’s Cathedral (Map p165; off Iraq Rd) are also of note. All have services
at 9am every Sunday.
Many of the city’s most architecturally interesting British Raj buildings are now used as gov-
ernment offices and aren’t so easily accessible for sightseeing. This includes the palatial Karachi
Metropolitan Development Corporation Building (Map pp162-3; Napier Rd), which was built in 1935
to mark George V’s Silver Jubilee. It incorporates pointed Oriental cupolas at its four corners and
has a lofty clock tower that’s also domed in the same style. Other civic worthies are Frere Hall
(Map p165; Bagh-e Jinnah), the red sandstone Sindh High Court (Map p165; Court Rd) and the Sindh
Assembly Building (Map p165; Court Rd).
Don’t just look for the grand buildings, however. Saddar is packed with British-era office blocks
and shops with impressive frontages. Many are hidden behind signs and modern accretions, and
others yet are crumbling for lack of attention, but all pay tribute to Karachi’s role as one of the
British empire’s most important port cities.
lonelyplanet.com K A R A C H I • • A c t i v i t i e s 167

or vaults. With a diameter of 72m, the tent- The main reason to come to Manora Island
like dome claims to be the world’s largest. is to enjoy the sea breezes on the ferry trip
Constructed of white marble, it has thousands out here. Boats in the harbour will also run
of mirror tiles in its thermally proofed inte- longer trips for the right fee, but note that
rior, giving the impression of twinkling stars. photography is forbidden in the harbour
Visitors are welcome, although it’s recom- area. A taxi from Saddar to the harbour costs
mended to avoid prayer times and Fridays. around Rs 120.
Also known as the Defence Society Mosque,
it’s in DHA, about 1km southeast of the Other Beaches
Cantonment Railway Station. Beaches stretch almost continuously for hun-
dreds of kilometres from Karachi into the
Clifton Beach Makran in Balochistan, but much of the coast
This is Karachi’s busiest beach (Map pp162–3), is off limits to foreigners. Swimming away
although here you’ll want to take a stroll from recognised areas is unsafe due to strong
rather than a swim. The beach itself is nothing undercurrents and heavy pollution. Some
special, made of mud-grey sand, but it’s fun beaches also contain stinging jellyfish, espe-
for people-spotting. Clifton is one of Karachi’s cially during the monsoon, July to September.
posher neighbourhoods, but the beach attracts It’s also best to avoid walking on any beach
a complete cross section of society, so gives a alone after dark.
good picture of Karachi at play. It’s deserted Although not as busy as Clifton Beach,
before late afternoon, and at its most festive Sandspit (Map p160) is popular with fami-
on Sunday. Camel and horse rides on the lies on Sunday and on holidays. Sandspit is a
sands (Rs 40 and 50 respectively) are popu- natural breakwater that prevents the harbour
lar, while stands sell cold drinks, chai (tea) from silting up – a serious problem along
and grilled corn. A park and promenade was most of the coastline – and played a large
on the verge of completion when we visited, role in Karachi’s emergence as the main port
where you can stroll for Rs 10 entry. on this part of the Arabian Sea. A taxi from
On a hill above the beach is the Ziarat of central Karachi costs around Rs 250, with
Abdullah Shah Gazi, a green-domed shrine dedi- buses from Lea Market (Map pp162–3) cost-
cated to a 9th-century Sufi. Qawwali (Islamic ing Rs 20.
devotional singing) often takes place here on The scenery ever-improves further along
Thursday night. Beneath the shrine is a fresh- the coast. About 25km from central Karachi
water spring, which pilgrims have credited is Hawkes Bay (Map p160), and the beautiful
with mystical healing qualities. Also near the French Beach (Map p160) is a further 14km on.
shrine is the Mohatta Palace, another residence The latter is relatively private, and is pretty
of Jinnah’s sister Fatima. It’s a fine British Raj much the reserve of Karachi’s upper classes
building, under restoration to be turned into and expatriates. The last convenient beach is
SINDH

a museum. Paradise Point (Map p160), about 45 minutes

The main roundabout near the beach has from Karachi.
plenty of buses, autorickshaws and taxis,
many heading for Saddar (a taxi will set you ACTIVITIES
back Rs 100). In addition to the activities mentioned here,
check out listings in local papers, which usu-
Manora Island ally include courses and sports clubs.
This island (Map p160) sits a short ferry ride
(Rs 40) from Keamari Harbour, the entrance Boating
to Karachi’s busy port. The island was the At Keamari Harbour you can hire a boat
site of the fort where Karachi’s Talpur rulers to take you to Manora Island (left). Aside
surrendered to the British, who later erected a from the ferry, boats can be hired for around
(still-intact) lighthouse in its place. The island Rs 300 per hour according to size, up to
has a small beach overlooked by the remains around Rs 2000 for the whole day. Some
of a 19th-century Hindu temple. Swimming captains can offer sea fishing, or even just
isn’t recommended due to strong currents and crabbing within the harbour, both outside the
pollution. There are food stalls around the monsoon season. The PTDC office can advise
beach, some selling fresh fish in batter. on more nautical options.
 168 K A R A C H I • • S l e e p i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Budget
TURTLE SPOTTING Many of the cheapest hotels are dotted around
In the evening between September and Dr Daud Pota Rd in the Saddar area, south
November, you can spot giant Olive Ridley of Empress Market. Although this locale can
and green turtles along parts of the Karachi be noisy, it’s close to cheap eateries and has
shoreline. The best way see them is to go easy access to public transport. Most places
with a local naturalist or hire a boat from have seen better days, with worn bed linen,
Keamari with a knowledgeable captain for squat toilets, and soap or paper generally only
the specific purpose of watching them. provided on request.
Hawkes Bay and Sandspit are the prime Budget hotels here are noticeably male-
places to spot turtles. dominated and solo women may feel un-
A handy local contact is the green- comfortable staying at them. Ideally, women
turtle project officer at the Sindh Wildlife should try to check out a few places first to
Management Board (Map p165; %9204951; see which is most congenial, although many
Stachen Rd), who is responsible for their pro- solo female travellers opt for midrange ac-
tection. The PTDC office (p164) can also ad- commodation in Karachi.
vise on hiring boats and arrange tours with YMCA (Map p165; %/fax 5681238; Strachen Rd; s/d
enough notice. Rs 150/200) The YMCA only accepts men and
married couples (no single women), and meals
are not available. There’s a Rs 100 temporary
Swimming membership fee (valid for one month). Low
Sea swimming on Clifton Beach is advised on character, comfort and service, but very
against because of pollution and strong cur- cheap. Advance bookings are recommended
rents. Instead, cool off in the pools of the top- as it’s often full.
end hotels, which also have heath clubs (rates YWCA (Map p165; %/fax 7732738; MA Jinnah Rd; r per
below are for nonguests). person Rs 200) This women-only lodging is lo-
Avari Towers (Map p165; %5660100; Fatima Jinnah cated in a girls’ school compound. The rooms
Rd; per day Rs 550) are nothing flash, but the YWCA is probably
KDA Officers Club (Map pp162-3; Kashmir Rd; per day the safest and most welcoming budget choice
Rs 100) The Olympic-sized public pool at the Officers Club for single women. There’s a small kitchen for
is considerably cheaper than swimming at hotels, but is self-caterers. The gates are locked at 10pm.
effectively men-only. Advance reservations are recommended.
Marriott Hotel (Map p165; %5682011; 9 Abdullah Hotel de Paris (Map p165; %5677432; Dr Daud Pota Rd;
Haroon Rd; per day Rs 250) s/d Rs 200/275) More of a rock-bottom option –
Pearl Continental (Map p165; %5685021; Club Rd; per day you’re a long way from the city of romance
Rs 500) It costs Rs 660 to use both the pool and health club. with this selection of basic but occasionally
airy rooms. A Rs 50 premium will get you a
SINDH

SLEEPING TV with as many Urdu soap operas as you

Compared with other cities, Karachi has a can handle.
glut of hotel rooms, particularly at the higher Chandni Hotel (Map p165; %5674474; B-2-1 10/1 Dr
end of the scale. As a result, you shouldn’t be Daud Pota Rd; s/d Rs 200/280) Mediocre but certainly
afraid of asking for a discount from the rack cheap, the Chandni offers thinning sheets and
rates, as prices can often tumble considerably slightly grubby bathrooms. Staff are friendly
if the hotel isn’t full. though, and for an extra Rs 20 will give you a
At the cheaper end of the range, beware room with a carpet.
Karachi’s daily power cuts. No electricity means Al-Bilal Hotel (Map p165; %5681176; 233 Sohrab
no fan and many budget hotels don’t have their Katrak Rd; s/d Rs 200/300) One of several cheapies
own generators (or won’t run them during on this busy street, this is one of the better
the day). This can make summers especially a budget choices, with small but reasonably
trying time to visit. The usual rule of big cities good rooms, and fairly basic facilities.
meaning big noise also applies – ask for a quiet Hotel Ocean (Map p165; %5681922; 241 Sohrab
room and come armed with earplugs. Katrak Rd; s/d Rs 300/350) More of the same as the
Most hotels have different room categories – Al-Bilal. Rooms are accordingly simple, but
the more you pay, the better the room. Here staff roll out a friendly Pashtun welcome
we provide only the cheapest rates. to guests.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels K A R A C H I • • S l e e p i n g 169

Hotel Karachi (Map p165; %5685326; 236 Sohrab than at comparably priced hotels elsewhere
Katrak Rd; s/d Rs 300/400) The dark-wood lobby gives in the city.
a good first impression here, and rooms are Sarawan Hotel (Map p165; %5216001; www.hotel
kept clean and tidy. But the lack of windows sarawan.com; Raja Ghazanfar Ali Rd; s/d Rs 2800/4500; a)
makes it a bad choice for claustrophobes – The Sarawan has a good central location in
only air bricks let in any ventilation or light Saddar while managing to avoid the worst of
(and noise). its bustle. Rooms are generously sized, and the
Hotel United (Map p165; %5217125; Dr Daud Pota whole is solidly reliable if lacking glamour. A
Rd; s/d/tr Rs 500/600/750; a) Rooms here are fairly decent choice, all in all.
clean and verging on the comfortable. The Hotel Sky Towers (Map p165; %5675211; hotelsky
entrance is down a side alley rather than on [email protected]; Raja Ghazanfar Ali Rd; s/d Rs 3000/4326;
the main street, and the hotel sits above a bak- a) An acceptable midrange hotel, although
ery, making the whole place smell of dough a bit uninspiring and knocked around the
and sweets. edges. Rooms range in quality so see a few
Hotel Reliance (Map p165; %5211546; Dr Daud Pota before checking in. Decent enough to rest in
Rd; s/d from Rs 600/800; a) This hotel is trying to but unlikely to raise any passions.
reach into the midrange bracket and is better o Beach Luxury Hotel (Map pp162-3;
than initial impressions would imply. Good % 5611031; [email protected]; off Moulvi
value for the price, the few rooms with air-con Talamuddin Khan Rd; s/d Rs 3920/5200; as) If you
attract a Rs 600 premium. want to get slightly away from things, this
hotel in a quiet area is worth it for its large
Midrange grounds and proximity to the sea. All rooms
Karachi’s midrange hotels come in a broad look out past palm trees over the water and
spectrum of prices, with some good choices have recently seen a refit that has improved
and discounts often available. A combined standards considerably. Service is excellent,
government/service tax of 23.6% is levied on and there’s a charming ‘floating restaurant’
all bills, not included in the rates listed here, (see p171) for night-time dining.
although breakfast is usually thrown in. All Hotel Mehran (Map p165; %5660851; www.hotel
hotels listed have a restaurant and room serv- mehran.com; Shahrah-e-Faisal Rd; s/d from Rs 4500/7650; a)
ice, and fridges in rooms. Stuck halfway between midrange and top end,
Gulf Hotel (Map p165; %5661235; gulfhtl@hotmail the Hotel Mehran is a supremely comfortable
.com; Dr Daud Pota Rd; s/d Rs 1400/2200; a) Pretty sim- choice for the price. Having recently under-
ple as midrange options go, but reasonable gone a refit, rooms are clean and modern,
for the price. Nicer ‘executive’ rooms have a and there’s a good restaurant and some handy
Rs 400 premium and air-con, but whichever shops and a bank in the grounds. Discounts
you go for try to avoid the rooms looking are frequently there for the asking.
gloomily onto the concrete wall at the back
SINDH

of the hotel. Top End

Paradise Hotel (Map p165; % 5680011; hotel Karachi has the best selection of top-end ho-
[email protected]; 2nd fl, 271 Abdullah Haroon Rd; tels in the country. Security tends to be strict,
Rs s/d 2000/3000; a) This tall hotel has rooms so expect metal detectors and bag searches on
with views looking over Saddar while rising entry. Prices listed here exclude the 23.6% tax.
above the worst of the street noise. Rooms Breakfasts are usually included, along with
are larger than average and fairly comfort- complimentary airport transfers. Always ask
able – they’re good value for the price. The for a discount – prices can frequently drop by
hotel entrance is a little confusing initially; over 50%, particularly in summer.
take the lift from the ground-floor entrance Regent Plaza Hotel (Map p165; %5660611; www
to get to reception. .rphcc.com; Shahrah-e-Faisal Rd; s/d Rs 12,000/15,000;
Bloom Luxury Hotel (Map p165; %5675261; baz ais) This hotel tries hard to offer top-
[email protected]; Golf Club Rd; s/d Rs 2100/3950; a) In a end facilities at the bottom end of the price
quieter area off Dr Daud Pota Rd, this hotel range. Mostly it does an excellent job, although
is a nice choice, sitting cleanly at the top end an excess of ostentatious furniture can cut
of the midrange hotels in terms of quality. your room to manoeuvre. Good marks other-
Rooms are well appointed (some have balco- wise, and with a bonus point for the ludi-
nies), and your rupees seem to go further here crous ziggurat-like chandelier in reception.
 170 K A R A C H I • • E a t i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Marriott Hotel (Map p165; %5682011; www.marriott the place to yourself. Dinner winds up around
.com; 9 Abdullah Haroon Rd; s/d Rs 25,000/35,000; ais) midnight. Mid- to upper-end restaurants at-
Located opposite the Sheraton Hotel (below), tract a tax of 15%, not included here unless
the Marriott has similarly tight security due to otherwise stated, but there’s often live music
the close proximity of the US consulate. This or other entertainment as compensation.
has scared travellers off in the past, but the Karachi’s top hotels offer further fine-dining
quality of the hotel at least is not in dispute, options to the listings here, but be prepared
with elegant rooms, good service and the ex- to bid adieu to a wad of cash.
pected complement of restaurants, business
and health facilities. Restaurants
Sheraton Hotel (Map p165; %5681021; www.sher Bar.B.Q Tonight (Map pp162-3; near Boat Basin, Clifton;
aton.com/karachi; Club Rd; s/d Rs 25,000/37,000; ais) mains Rs 80-210; hdinner) A restaurant with a great
The common areas of the Sheraton feel a little atmosphere that delivers exactly what its name
tired compared with the Pearl Continental’s promises. Grab a seat outdoors, or allow a
opulence, but an extensive renovation pro- waiter to find you a table inside (ask for the
gramme means that it’s catching up fast. As rooftop). The chicken tikka and Afghan ke-
a result, rooms vary according to price – from babs never disappoint, but we fell in love with
slightly old-fashioned to the glitzy Tower the roast mutton leg, with the meat falling off
Rooms, possibly the swankiest hotel rooms the bone (Rs 450).
currently on offer in the city. Elsewhere in Arizona Grill (Map pp162-3; %5830351; 20C 2nd
the hotel there are five restaurants, the usual Commercial Lane, Zamzama Blvd; mains Rs 135-425; hlunch
pool/health club combination and an excel- & dinner; a) Those seeking a change from
lent branch of Liberty Books. Pakistani fare will relish their choices here –
Avari Towers (Map p165; %5660100; www.avari.com; all juicy steaks, pasta and salads, pepped up
Fatima Jinnah Rd; s/d 27,100/29,000; ais) As befits with some great fruit cocktails. Pepper steak
its name, Avari Towers literally looms over the with fries and salad (Rs 310) hits the spot, but
competition as the tallest hotel in town. It is we also found the spinach ravioli well worth
a fine choice and doesn’t skimp on its guests, investigating for palates needing a break from
offering complimentary services like mini- meat-heavy menus.
bars where other hotels charge. Rooms are Village Garden Restaurant (Map p165; %5212880;
restrained (except for a surfeit of pillows), and Palace Cinema Bldg, Civil Lines; mains Rs 140-550; hdin-
there are three restaurants offering Japanese, ner) Karachi’s oldest restaurant, the Village
Chinese and barbecue, the latter on a rooftop Garden is a pleasant place to sit in the open
that has the best views in the city. Also tucked air and catch a breeze. The menu here is heavy
away is a bar serving alcohol. on barbecued meat, plus some tasty karais
Pearl Continental (Map p165; %5685021; www (food braised with vegetables, served bub-
.pchotels.com.pk; Club Rd; s/d Rs 28,000/46,000; ais) bling in its own pan) and the like. The TV in
SINDH

Karachi’s most sophisticated hotel by a head, the middle of the restaurant is permanently
the PC has stylish rooms, slick service, vari- tuned to the cricket.
ous amenities and a handful of top restau- Alpha (Map p165; %5214177; Sarwar Shahid Rd;
rants: Sakura serves the best Japanese food in mains from Rs 150; hlunch & dinner; a) Up some
town and the Royal Elephant serves excellent narrow stairs, the low ceiling, low lights and
Thai cuisine, and there’s a nice coffee shop wood-panelled walls give this place a hushed
in the lobby (wi-fi enabled). High standards ambience that makes it popular with couples.
mean that the PC is the one top-end hotel Food is Pakistani and Chinese, with a good
that has no trouble in filling its rooms, so is selection of vegetarian dishes served in big,
the one place where discounts are few and inexpensive portions.
far between. oPurple Haze (off Map pp162-3; %5860941;
66C-68C 25th St, Tauheed Commercial, DHA; mains Rs 150-750;
EATING hlunch & dinner; a) Purple Haze is a plush,
Karachi has one of the widest ranges of restau- dimly lit café-style eatery that attracts the
rants in Pakistan, so it’s worth dining out as young and hip side of Karachi life. There’s
much as you can. Places tend to open for din- wi-fi, and frequent live music at the weekends,
ner around 7.30pm but really get going after from traditional to Urdu hip-hop. The food’s
9pm – eating before then often means having not bad either, leaning towards Western and
lonelyplanet.com K A R A C H I • • D r i n k i n g 171

fusion styles, from fancy burgers and noodles Boat Basin Restaurants (Map pp162-3; Clifton;
to scrumptious cheesecake and great coffee. hdinner) Over 40 simple but good-value ea-
Café Zouk (off Map pp162-3; % 5856491; 27C teries are strung along this informal open-air
Khayaban-e-Shamsher, Phase 5, DHA; mains Rs 199-369; promenade on the edge of Clifton. It’s pretty
hlunch & dinner; a) Another popular choice quiet during the day, getting going after 9pm.
with Karachi’s middle and upper classes, but It’s perennially popular with Karachi soci-
attracting more families rather than bright ety as a place to eat and meet; alfresco din-
young things. The menu leans towards ing is particularly pleasant here during the
Continental and Thai food, with some great cooler months. Most menus sport ubiquitous
surprises like chilli-stuffed prawns. Pakistani and fast-food fare and you can fill
Evolution (off Map pp162-3; %5860941; 66C-68C 25th up for Rs 100 to Rs 200.
St, Tauheed Commercial, DHA; mains Rs 249-739; hlunch &
dinner; a) In the same building as Purple Haze, DRINKING
Evolution remains one of the cooler places to To buy alcohol in Karachi you have to get a
eat – and be seen – in Karachi. It’s popular with permit issued by the Excise Department (Map p165;
the sons and daughters of Karachi’s upper- %9203326; Block 11, Sindh Secretariat) You’ll need
crust families. Evolution only serves a buffet at your passport and a photocopy of its front
lunch (Rs 300) but has an ‘around-the-world’ à pages, Pakistani visa and entry stamp. The
la carte theme at dinner, with Pakistani, Italian, only decent alternative we found was the bar
Thai, Continental and Japanese dishes. You at Avari Towers hotel (opposite) – take your
name it, they’ve probably offered it. Good food passport and dress smartly.
in classy surroundings.
Thai Seafood (off Map pp162-3; %5805522; 3C Old ENTERTAINMENT
Sunset Blvd, Phase II DHA; mains Rs 290-950; hlunch & din- While Karachi doesn’t have any nightclubs,
ner; a) Stepping into the icy air of this modern it has some fantastic restaurants that really
restaurant is delicious, and the food almost spring to life after dark. Being a regional capi-
matches. The menu has a wide range of Thai tal, musical and theatrical performances often
and Chinese dishes, with an excellent-value take place; see local newspapers for current de-
three-course set menu for Rs 299. Service is tails. MA Jinnah Rd is the place to catch a film,
a bit fussy without actually being brilliant, with the Capri, Prince and Nishat cinemas (see
and waiters sometimes insist on bringing all Map p165) showing English-language films.
three courses at once. Steamed squid with
lemon grass and the fish cakes with chilli SHOPPING
are winners. The economic heart of Pakistan, Karachi is also
Beach Luxury Hotel (Map pp162-3; %5611031; off the country’s marketplace. The main shopping
Moulvi Talamuddin Khan Rd; buffet Rs 350; hdinner) A district is Saddar (Map p165), a conglomera-
‘floating restaurant’ in the grounds of this tion of historic bazaars, modern shopping
SINDH

hotel makes a great setting for dinner. The buf- centres and tourist shops selling everything
fet has a wide selection of Pakistani, Chinese from carpets and jewellery to clothing and
and Continental dishes, with seafood well assorted souvenirs. In every direction the foot-
represented and plenty of salad. Popular with paths are crowded with stalls flogging all man-
families, it also has live music most nights, ner of wares. It’s a great place for handicraft
giving the place a lively atmosphere. shopping, from Kashmiri embroidery to Swati
carved woodwork. Saddar’s main bazaar is the
Quick Eats jam-packed central Bohri Bazaar (Map p165).
For cheap eats, popular options include Another good place is Zainab Market (Map
buzzing Boat Basin, Saddar (Dr Daud Pota p165), further south. Cooperative handicraft
Rd is good for tighter budgets), around centres and the more expensive emporiums
Mereweather Tower and along Burnes Rd. are on Abdullah Haroon Rd, Zaibun-Nisa St
Krispy Broast Chicken (Map p165; Raja Ghazanfar Ali and Club Rd. For carpets try the shops along
Rd; mains from Rs 80; hlunch & dinner) A no-frills fast- Zaibun-Nisa St near Bohri Bazaar.
food eatery, popular with workers on lunch For modern shops squarely aimed at the
breaks and evening diners alike. The menu is city’s upper class, there are a number of up-
vast, from karai and kebabs to burgers and market department stores and various down-
biryani. Cheap and filling. town boutiques. One slick shopping mall is
 172 K A R A C H I • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com

Clifton’s Park Towers (Map pp162–3), which Various international airlines have offices in
has plenty of designerware as well as an upbeat central Karachi, including the following:
food court. Air Arabia (Map p165; %5693817; Lotia Bldg, Abdullah
Most shops in Karachi are closed on Haroon Rd)
Sunday. Opening hours vary, but most tend British Airways (Map p165; %5686076; Marriott
to operate from around 10.30am to 8pm Hotel, 9 Abdullah Haroon Rd)
or 9pm. Cathay Pacific (Map p165; %5660406; Metropole
Hotel, Club Rd)
GETTING THERE & AWAY Emirates (Map p165; %5683377; 265A RA Lines Sarwar
Air Rd)
Karachi’s international and domestic air Gulf Air (Map p165; %5675231; Kashif Centre, Shah-
terminals are both located at the Jinnah rah-e-Faisal Rd)
International Airport (Map p160; %4572011, 9248792), Indian Airlines (Map p165; %2625023; 1st fl, Shaheen
about 10km east of the city centre. You can Complex, Dr Ziauddin Ahmad Rd)
buy onward domestic air tickets here 24 hours Iran Air (Map p165; %5216293; Hotel Mehran,
a day outside the arrival terminal. There are Shahrah-e-Faisal Rd)
money-exchange counters and ATMs in the KLM (Map p165; %5689071; Club Rd)
arrival hall and before you clear customs upon Singapore Airlines (Map p165; %5683078; 2-3
departure. The international departure ter- Services Club Bldg, Mereweather Rd)
minal (after customs) has some overpriced Thai Airways (Map p165; %5660160; Metropole Hotel,
handicraft shops, while the domestic terminal Club Rd)
has a good bookshop.
Pakistan International Airlines (PIA; www.piac.com Bus
.pk) operates the most comprehensive domestic There are plentiful long-distance bus com-
service. The busiest routes are to Islamabad panies, mostly clustered in and around the
(Rs 3680, 1¾ hours, five daily) and Lahore Blue Lines Bus Station (Map p165; Dr Daud Pota Rd)
(Rs 4280, 1¾ hours, seven daily), along with near Cantonment Railway Station. These
daily flights to Peshawar (Rs 7920, two hours), include Blue Lines (%5660821) and Green Lines
Quetta (Rs 6250, one hour), Faisalabad (Rs 3720, (%5652665). Buses run out at all times from
90 minutes), Multan (Rs 4280, 90 minutes) here to Lahore (Rs 900, 22 hours), Larkana
and Gwadar. All major cities are served, with (Rs 400, seven hours) and Multan (Rs 450,
other useful flights including to Moenjodaro 13 hours), among other destinations. For
(Rs 3300, four times weekly). Where there are Quetta (Rs 650, 13 hours) go to Lea Market,
multiple daily departures, the night services at from where you’ll also find cheaper buses to
unsociable hours are slightly cheaper. Check destinations across Sindh.
online for full timetables. The comfortable Daewoo service popular
Air Blue runs three times a day to Islamabad in the north was due to commence operat-
SINDH

and Lahore and daily to Quetta. Shaheen Air ing from Karachi with services to Punjab via
flies to Lahore (daily except Saturday) and Hyderabad as we went to press.
three times weekly to Quetta and Peshawar.
Aero Asia has services to Islamabad (up to five Train
daily), Lahore (three daily), and three times Karachi has two main train stations – City
weekly to Peshawar, Faisalabad and Multan. Railway Station and Cantonment Railway
Fares are all within touching distance of each Station. About the same number of trains origi-
other and PIA. nate from each, but all trains from City also stop
at Cantonment soon after. To be sure of a seat,
AIRLINE OFFICES get on at the departure terminus. Train seats fill
The four domestic airlines: up quickly so book as far in advance as possible
Aero Asia (Map p165; %2783033; IEP Bldg, Shahrah- (particularly important for fast trains and the
e-Faisal Rd) more expensive classes).
Air Blue (Map p165; %2247258; Strachen Rd) Reservations can be made at either the City
PIA office (Map p165; %9206721; Strachen Rd; booking office (%9213540, 9213537; h9am-2pm)
h9am-9pm) Has separate departments for international or the Cantonment booking office (%9213565;
and domestic flights. h9am-2pm) but the foreigner/student con-
Shaheen Air (Map p165; %5685590; Strachen Rd) cessions can only be given at the former
lonelyplanet.com K A R A C H I • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 173

MAJOR TRAINS FROM KARACHI

Destination Train Departure Duration Fare
Lahore Karakoram Express 4pm 16-18hr A/B/C/E Rs 580/660/1300/1710
Larkana Bolan Mail noon 9½hr A/B/F Rs 180/325/743
Multan Tezgam Express 4.45pm 13¼hr A/B/F Rs 355/430/1300
Peshawar Awam Express 8am 31¾hr A/B/C Rs 615/690/1430
Quetta Balochistan Express 5.30pm 16hr A/B/C/F Rs 415/490/930/2070
Rawalpindi Tezgam Express 4.45pm 25-26hr A/B/C/F Rs 630/1125/1880/2880

Abbreviations:
A = Economy C = Air-conditioned lower E = Air-conditioned sleeper
B = First-class sleeper D = Air-conditioned parlour

(irrespective of which station the train de- at Rs 4 and never topping Rs 20. Potentially
parts from). Go to the superintendent’s office useful routes from Empress Market include
at the Commercial Branch on the 1st floor. Clifton Beach (bus 20), Keamari Harbour via
Major trains from Karachi are listed in the Mereweather Tower (buses 2K, W11, 6B and
boxed text (above), but timetables and fares 8A), and the Quaid-i-Azam Mausoleum (bus
are subject to change. You can double-check 2K). Karachi City Guide has a full listing of
at the station or direct with Pakistan Railways routes. The most salubrious local buses are
(%117; www.pakrail.com), or with the Time & run by the Metro Bus Service and the Green
Fare Table (Rs 25), which is updated twice Bus Service, which are a little more expensive
yearly and is often sold at stations. These than others but more comfortable and usu-
sources will also have additional train services ally less crowded. They cover a limited area,
not mentioned in the boxed text. predominantly between Saddar, Clifton and
the city centre. You can catch them at Saddar’s
GETTING AROUND Empress Market.
Traffic jams are a frustrating constant of
Karachi life, so bear this in mind if you’ve Car
got a connection or appointment to make. It’s easier to hire a care with driver than try
to navigate Karachi’s insane traffic yourself.
To/From the Airport Pearl Radio Cab (%4604465) charges Rs 1500 per
Several reliable 24-hour radio cab firms day including fuel, if you’re staying in the city
operate from outside the arrivals terminal limits and travel less than 100km. Travel Walji’s
at Jinnah International Airport, including (Map p165; %5660248; 13 Services Mess, Mereweather Rd)
is recommended for self-drive cars. Prices
SINDH

Metro Radio Cabs (%45791129) and Pearl Radio

Cab (%4604465). Charges are set at Rs 15 per are around Rs 2400 per day (without fuel;
kilometre (minimum fare Rs 160) with airport unlimited mileage).
transfers capped at Rs 310.
A cheaper (and slower) option to Saddar Taxi & Autorickshaw
is the minibus D3 (Rs 15) from outside the Yellow taxis or autorickshaws are the quick-
terminal to Empress Market in Saddar Bazaar. est ways to get around Karachi, although
Top-end (and many midrange) hotels offer the latter leave you prone to an overdose of
complimentary airport transfers when given exhaust fumes. Except in the unlikely event
advance notice. of the taxi driver having a working meter,
you’ll need to set your fare before driving
Bus & Minibus off. From Saddar a taxi should take you to
City bus and minibus routes crisscross Clifton for Rs 100 to Rs120, and about Rs 70
Karachi but they’re a confusing bet for the to the City or Cantonment Railway Stations.
short-term visitor, with numbers, destina- Autorickshaws are around half the price, and
tions and stops poorly marked, and vehicles the drivers never have change.
crowded to bursting. But they can be fun too The radio taxi firms (see left) can also be
if you’re that way inclined, with fares starting hired as regular cabs for the charges listed.
 174 A R O U N D K A R A C H I • • M a n g h o p i r lonelyplanet.com

THE SHIP-BREAKERS OF GADDANI

What happens to a ship when it’s reached the end of its natural life? If it’s an oil tanker, there’s
a good chance it’ll wind up on Gaddani beach, 48km along the coast from Karachi.
As graveyards go, it’s an almost unbelievable place – a wrecker’s yard re-imagined through
the lens of Dante’s Inferno. Rather than the mechanised docks of the developed world, at
Gaddani everything is done by hand. Ships are literally hauled onto the beach and set upon
by an army of workers, stripping away the superstructure so it can be beached higher and
higher on the sands until the last broken remnants can be hauled away by a fleet of trucks.
The most valuable commodity is ship plate – steel that can be sold or sent to mills to be
rolled into new products.
Environmentalists consider the industry to be one of the most dangerous in the world. Ship-
breaking generates large volumes of hazardous waste, from toxic paints and leaking petroleum
to asbestos. Gaddani beach itself is black with years of oil slicks. Health problems among workers
abound, and accidental deaths from physical injuries are not uncommon.
Ironically, the tide may be going out for Gaddani. High import duties on scrap and competi-
tion from India and Bangladesh have reduced the beach to a shadow of its 1980s boom period.
Visitors aren’t encouraged – while there is no official ban, we’ve heard of travellers being arrested
for taking photos at such a ‘sensitive’ area.

AROUND KARACHI THE INTERIOR

MANGHOPIR The interior of Sindh is a seldom-visited part
of Pakistan, although not without interest.
About 25km north of Karachi is Manghopir,
The main highway north roughly follows
with its shrine to the Muslim saint Pir Mangho.
the Indus, veering off to reveal the extent
The shrine is guarded by snub-nosed croco-
to which mass irrigation has turned a bar-
diles. Mangho arrived from Arabia in the 13th
ren region into a green breadbasket. Wilder
century and, according to legend, brought the
country is to the north and west in the Great
crocodiles with him in his hair in the form of
Thar Desert.
head lice. A sulphur thermal spring here is said
Travel in Sindh’s interior is subject to
to be therapeutic for skin diseases and other
security concerns, particularly off the main
afflictions. Take a bus here from the Empress
roads, so you’re advised to contact the Karachi
Market in Karachi (Rs 18, one hour).
PTDC (p164) before planning a trip.
CHAUKUNDI KARACHI TO HYDERABAD
SINDH

Graveyards stretch for many kilometres west Banbhore

along the coast, but the largest and most Despite being some way inland, Banbhore
impressive tombs and mausoleums are con- is believed to be the ancient port of Debal
centrated at Chaukundi. The buildings are (or Daibul), where the Arab conqueror
constructed of slabs of rock, stacked into ob- Mohammed bin Qasim landed in the 8th
long pyramids of cubical stone and carved century in his attempt to bring Islam to the
with exquisite designs. region. Silt deposits from the Indus have long
Their history is unrecorded, but most are consigned it to history.
believed to date from the 13th to 16th cen- Banbhore is interesting to visit for the ex-
turies. One metre to 3m high, the 100 or so tensive ruins of the different historical periods
tombs in the main site are carved with reliefs so far uncovered: Scythian-Parthian, Buddhist,
so smooth that they have the appearance of Hindu and Islamic – there’s an 8th-century
woodcarvings or sand sculptures. mosque here, possibly the oldest on the sub-
Chaukundi is 27km east of Karachi signed continent. A small museum (admission Rs 5; h10am-
off the National Hwy. You can take a return 5pm Thu-Tue) has various finds from the site.
taxi from Karachi (Rs 700) or take the Thatta Banbhore is about 64km east of Karachi
bus (Rs 65, 30 minutes) from Lea Market in and 5km south of the National Hwy to Thatta.
the hope of hitching a lift back to Karachi. It can be reached by bus from Lea Market
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T H E I N T E R I O R • • H y d e r a b a d 175

in Karachi – the bus drops you 3km from then to Hyderabad, and only three years later
Banbhore and you then walk to the ruins – Thatta was sacked by the Persian Nadir Shah.
or from Thatta via Gharo on the National Although it never regained its importance,
Hwy. many of the old buildings here and in the
nearby Makli Hill still stand as reminders of
Haleji Lake better days.
This lake is said to be one of the largest wa- The town is dominated by the beautiful
terfowl sanctuaries in Asia. Thousands of World Heritage–listed Shah Jahan Mosque,
birds from over 75 species migrate from as which was built between 1644 and 1647. Its
far as Siberia during winter. Visitors include 93 domes around a central courtyard give
flamingos, pelicans, pheasant-tailed jacana, it superb acoustics, while wind towers pro-
herons, partridges and egrets. The lake is 87km vide natural air-conditioning. The tilework –
from Karachi and 15km before Thatta, on a with wide-ranging shades of blue – and the
turning off the National Hwy just west of the calligraphy are equally impressive, and it is
village of Gujjo. Private transport is needed one of Pakistan’s loveliest mosques. It’s said
to get here. that Shah Jahan built the mosque to repay
STDC runs a small bungalow here. Contact the townspeople for their hospitality when he
its Karachi office (Map pp162-3; %021-7788530; 1st sought refuge here after revolting against his
fl, 114-115 Block C, Sea Breeze Plaza, Shahrah-e-Faisal Rd; father, the Mughal emperor Jehangir.
h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri) for Thatta is 98km east of Karachi, and you can
prices and (mandatory) reservations. catch a bus here from Karachi’s Lea Market
(Rs 75, three hours).
Makli Hill
A vast necropolis, a couple of kilometres be- HYDERABAD
fore Thatta on the road from Karachi, covers %0221 / pop 1.87 million
some 15 sq km of this hill and is said to con- The second-largest city in Sindh, Hyderabad
tain over one million graves. The graves con- is on the Indus about 180km northeast of
sist of mainly sandstone, exquisitely carved Karachi. It’s of little tourist interest and most
with geometric and floral designs like those foreigners who come here do so on specific
at Chaukundi. Among the more significant business, although its sprawling bazaars are
tombs is that of Turkhan ruler Mirza Jani Beg. It good for souvenir hunting.
was built in 1599 and is made of glazed bricks.
North of this is the imposing Mausoleum of Sights
Nawab Isa Khan, former Mughal governor of In 1768 the Kalhora rulers constructed the
Sindh. The Mausoleum of Diwan Shurfa Khan, Shah Makkai Fort here. Originally half a square
built in 1638, is slightly to the northwest, a kilometre in area, today little more than the
square structure with squat round towers at 15m-high wall, the entrance and one interior
SINDH

each corner. A couple of kilometres north, room still stand. On the north side of the hill
the Tomb of Jam Nizamuddin is a 16th-century on which Hyderabad is sited are tombs from
square stone building. the Talpur and Kalhora periods. Shahi Bazaar
There’s a PTDC office (%029-771319; h9am-5pm is a labyrinth of narrow alleys where artisans
Sat-Thu, 9am-noon Fri) at Makli Hill, near the site. produce items including Sindhi embroidery,
From Karachi’s Lea Market catch a bus to block prints, jewellery, pointy-toed shoes and
Makli Hill (Rs 50, three hours). dainty glass bangles.

Thatta Sleeping
Once a large and prosperous city, Thatta There are budget lodgings around Shahi Bazaar
declined after the Indus changed course in and in the Ghari Khatta area, near the train
the early 18th century. According to some station, although they’re frequently reluctant
accounts, Alexander the Great’s army rested to take foreigners. More upmarket options:
here before marching on into the Makran. New Hotel Ritz (%2728351; Cantonment; s/d
From the 14th century, Thatta was important Rs 500/1000; a) Decent cheaper option.
as Sindh’s capital under four Muslim dynas- Faran (%2780194; [email protected];
ties and as a centre for Islamic arts. However, Saddar Bazaar; s/d 1200/1500; a) Similar in price and
in 1739 the capital was moved to Khudabad, standard to the City Gate.
 176 T H E I N T E R I O R • • A r o u n d H y d e r a b a d lonelyplanet.com

City Gate (%2611677; Jail Rd; s/d Rs 1230/1545; a) favourite hide-out for local dacoits (bandits) –
Good-value comfy rooms. as a consequence officials discourage tour-
ists from coming here, but if you still plan to
Getting There & Away do so, make sure you first seek advice from
Hyderabad is a road junction with highways Karachi’s PTDC office (see p164).
northwest to Manchhar Lake and Sehwan Ranikot is about 90km northwest of
Sharif, east to Mirpur Khas and the Great Hyderabad and not easy to get to. From Sann, a
Thar Desert, and north to Kot Diji, Sukkur village on the Indus Hwy, a rough track heads
and Punjab. west for 21km to the fort, with no human
Trains leave from Hyderabad Junction to settlements en route. A 4WD is advisable (see
Karachi, Multan, Lahore, Rawalpindi and p173 for details of car-hire companies).
Peshawar. Frequent daily buses leave to all
major destinations including Karachi (Rs 80, Sehwan Sharif
two hours). On the west bank of the Indus, the oasis town
of Sehwan Sharif is 140km northwest of Kotri.
AROUND HYDERABAD It’s one of the oldest towns in Sindh, and was a
Ziarat of Shah Abdul Latif district capital of succeeding Buddhist, Hindu
This important mausoleum and pilgrimage and early Muslim rulers. The prime draw is
site, located in the village of Bhit Shah, about the 14th-century Shrine of Lal Shah Baz Qalandar,
40km north of Hyderabad, honours popular dedicated to an important Sufi saint who came
Sindhi poet and Sufi saint Abdul Latif (1689– here in about 1260.
1752). The mausoleum is covered with beauti- The mausoleum is covered with beauti-
ful blue-and-white tilework, the speciality of ful tiles. Every year on the saint’s urs, 18–19
the neighbouring town of Hala. It’s also the Sha’aban, it’s visited by throngs of pilgrims
focus for huge gatherings of pilgrims during the for a three-day festival, usually in September
saint’s urs (death anniversary festival), gener- or October but ask Karachi’s PTDC office
ally held around April. Ask at the PTDC office (p164) for exact dates as they vary each year.
in Karachi (see p164) as dates vary annually. Year-round, most evenings at around 6pm,
pilgrims gather in the courtyard and dance
GREAT THAR DESERT themselves into hypnotic trances. Near the
Sixty-five kilometres east of Hyderabad, Mirpur present town lies the remains of a vast fort,
Khas boasts a striking 15m-high Buddhist stupa used by Alexander the Great, that was of great
with terracotta figures. However, Mirpur Khas strategic importance for many centuries.
is otherwise of little interest except as a base for
exploring the Great Thar Desert (also called the Manchhar Lake
Tharparkar Desert), which was, at the time of A short drive west of Sehwan Sharif is a
research, strictly off limits to foreigners. The game reserve noted for its wide variety of
SINDH

Great Thar Desert measures about 28,000 sq km birdlife. It’s also of ethnological interest for
and is an extension of India’s vast Rajasthan the Mohana fisherfolk living by its shore, who
plain. It has a number of Jain and Hindu temples, are believed to be the direct descendants of
especially around Nagar Parkar and Mithi. the Indus Valley (and probably pre-Indus
To visit the Great Thar Desert, you really Valley) civilisation of Sindh. There are sev-
need to be self-sufficient with your own ve- eral islands in the lake, accessible by hired
hicle, and to ascertain the current safety situ- boat from the shore.
ation with the PTDC office in Karachi (see To stay at the STDC Lal Shah Baz Resthouse (s/d
p164). Alternatively, it’s easier to visit the Rs 200/400), advance reservations at the Karachi
desert from Punjab in the north, from where STDC office (Map pp162-3; %021-7788530; 1st fl, 114-115
camel safaris can be arranged (see p125). Block C, Sea Breeze Plaza, Shahrah-e-Faisal Rd; h9am-1pm &
2-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri) are essential.
HYDERABAD TO SUKKUR
Ranikot Fort MOENJODARO
With outer walls measuring 24km, this mas- Over 165 sites related to the Indus Valley civi-
sive fort’s history and purpose are unknown, lisation have been described by archaeologists,
although part of it appears to date from the but World Heritage–listed Moenjodaro is the
Talpurian era. More recently it has been a undisputed jewel in the crown. The largest
lonelyplanet.com T H E I N T E R I O R • • M o e n j o d a r o 177

of the ancient cities of Pakistan, its ruins are was destroyed by Aryan invaders in the mid-
spread over 250 hectares. 2nd millennium BC.

History Information
About 4000 BC, when the Mesopotamian Before visiting, it’s advisable to consult
civilisation flourished on the Euphrates, Karachi’s PTDC office (p164) to ensure the
Moenjodaro began to develop as one of the security situation is deemed safe at the time
great cities of the Indus Valley civilisation. The of your intended trip. At times, armed guards
quality of the architecture and town planning have been assigned to visitors on arrival
was exceptional. due to local insecurity (there’s no charge).
Moenjodaro (meaning ‘Mound of the Moenjodaro’s PTDC office (%0741-480082) is by
Dead’) thrived roughly from 2500–1500 BC the site entrance, and has informative staff.
with a population believed to have reached
at least 50,000. However, the population de- Sights
clined abruptly for reasons that are still un- The most exposed parts of the city (site & museum
clear. Long after its demise, Buddhist monks admission Rs 500; h8.30am-5pm Sun-Thu & Sat, 8.30am-
of the Kushan era erected a stupa over 70m 12.30pm & 2.30-5pm Fri Apr-Nov, 9am-4pm Sun-Thu & Sat,
high here. That too is now in ruins, but still 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-4pm Fri Dec-Mar) are open to visi-
rises 11m above the surrounding area and was tors, representing just one-third of the area yet
for a long time the only visible monument. to be excavated. Archaeology buffs will get
The Indus Valley civilisation extended more the most out of it; those with a casual interest
than 1500km along the Indus and its tributaries. may be disappointed given the relative effort
Its main cities were Harappa and Moenjodaro, needed to get here.
but this is the better-preserved site. It appears
that secular law was reinforced by the power of THE REMAINS
a priest caste, although the exact political struc- Except for the stupa, all of the present layer of
tures remain a mystery. Figurines found here excavation is from the same period (around
suggest that the religion incorporated belief in a 2500 BC). There are two parts to the site, a
mother-goddess combined with tree and animal mound to the west and a larger lower settlement
worship, especially of the bull. to the east. The total circumference is about
Originally Moenjodaro was surrounded 5km. The artificial hill symbolically overlooked
by fertile land with a climate far cooler and the rest of the town and housed the elite.
rainier than the present wasteland suggests.
The Indus now flows around 5km to the west, Upper Site
although at the time it was beside the town. Next to the stupa are the remains of a large
There are three clear levels of occupation, building known as the granary, which origi-
the top two built on top of an earlier, de- nally measured 45m by 23m and was later
SINDH

stroyed layer. There are several theories about enlarged. The 27 surviving brickwork piers
how Moenjodaro came to an end. One is that formed part of a ventilation system for the
it collapsed in an earthquake, another that it granary itself, a wooden structure that has
was destroyed by a flood. Rising water levels at long since disintegrated.
several times in the city’s history certainly did The great bath measures 7m by 12m with
require much of it to be rebuilt or abandoned. a depth of 2.5m, and has steps leading down
Building standards also declined over the years from ground level at both ends. The bath was
as one new level was built over another. The city skilfully lined with fired bricks and sealed
became more crowded as the rising Indus re- with watertight materials, and had a brick-
duced the habitable area. Since the 1990s much lined drain. On three sides are the remains of
archaeological work has gone into preserving buildings, some of which may have housed a
the ruins from further water and salt damage. priests’ college. The bath may have had some
The discovery of several skeletons of inhab- ritualistic significance.
itants who had obviously met a violent end, The assembly hall, south of the mound, is
and had never been properly buried, has led less well preserved. The rest of the citadel is
many scholars to claim that Moenjodaro was largely unexcavated. The remains of some
sacked by unknown invaders. Some archae- buttresses southeast of the hill suggest that
ologists purport the Indus Valley civilisation the upper site, or citadel, was once surrounded
 178 T H E I N T E R I O R • • M o e n j o d a r o lonelyplanet.com

MOENJODARO 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles

To Larkana
(28km) To Airport
(200m)

PTDC Office;
PTDC Motel
Archaeology Museum

ack
Resthouse

king Tr
al
Main W
Bazaar Area
(according to Sir
Mortimer Wheeler)
Wealthy
Residential
Area Trench

Priest’s
College

Great
Bath Buddhist
Granary Stupa
Stairs

Stupa
Mound
Trench

Assembly
Hall
Tower

Defensive Wall
Fortifications
SINDH

Sixteen Small
Cottages

Poor Residential Area

Trench (Workers’ Houses)

by a defensive wall. From the citadel you can wide. The main streets were also met at right
clearly see the neatly laid-out block pattern angles by lanes, mostly 1.5m to 3m wide. The
of the lower site. houses were entered from these lanes.
What is known as the wealthy residential
Lower Site area in the north is the largest part so far un-
What little has been excavated of the lower site covered. To the south, the poor residential area
shows it was planned on a grid system, with contains smaller structures that were probably
main streets at right angles and about 10m the dwellings of working-class Moenjodarans.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T H E I N T E R I O R • • S u k k u r 179

Of this smaller group of residences, only two Getting There & Away
rows – each with eight two-roomed, single- The airport is about 1km north of the PTDC
storey buildings – have been uncovered. It’s office. PIA flies from Karachi on Thursday,
also possible that these were artisans’ shops. Friday, Saturday and Sunday (Rs 3300/5900
Although the lower town was overlooked single/return, 30 minutes) in the afternoons.
from the citadel and built to a regular plan, the A shuttle bus drops you at the site.
houses were obviously designed with privacy A taxi from Larkana, 28km from Moen-
in mind. Pipes from the houses led into brick jodaro, costs about Rs 600 (one way). A bus
gutters along the main streets, an extraordi- will cost Rs 35 (40 minutes). There are two
nary innovation for the time. There were pub- trains to Moenjodaro from Karachi, the Bolan
lic wells in the streets, some of which survive in Mail and Khushal Khan Khattak Express, both
good condition, and in some houses there were Quetta-bound, both taking around nine hours.
private wells and even baths and latrines. See boxed text, p173,for more information.
It’s believed most houses in the wealthy
residential area had two storeys. Some dwell- SUKKUR
ings have staircases leading up to nowhere, The town of Sukkur is home to the Sukkur
and a few have holes at ceiling level suggesting Barrage, a 1400m-long series of sluice gates
wooden beams. There were few windows and that control the flooding of the Indus. It feeds
the houses were cut off from the lanes by high seven irrigation canals that ultimately water
walls. Some buildings have thicker walls, which nearly three million hectares of Sindh. An
may have been artisans’ shops or factories. impressive piece of British engineering, it’s
Some smaller structures at intervals along the also a sensitive installation so don’t flash your
main roads appear to have been sentry boxes. camera.
The town has an older historic area, as it was
MUSEUM a key stop on the trade route to the Bolan Pass.
The good museum contains relics from the The most interesting historic building is the
site, including engraved seals, terracotta toys, needle-shaped Minaret of Mir Masum Shah, com-
kitchen utensils, weapons, sculpture, jewellery pleted in 1614. It’s 84ft (25.6m) tall, 84ft in di-
and other ornaments. If you’re coming to ameter, with 84 steps and a lofty view of Sukkur.
the site from Karachi, it’s worth visiting the The lively bazaar is also worth a look. Near
National Museum (p164) first, as it contains Lansdowne Bridge is the island of Sadhubella,
some of Moenjodaro’s best-known finds, such where there is an active Hindu complex with
as the iconic ‘priest-king’ sculpture, and a temples to Ganesh, Shiva and Hanuman.
bronze statuette of a dancing girl. Accommodation options:
Mehran (%071-613792; fax 071-613892; Station Rd;
Sleeping & Eating s/d from Rs 170/275)
The new on-site PTDC Motel (%0741-459266; s/d Forum Inn (%071-5613011; United Nations Rd; s/d
SINDH

Rs 1000/1300; a) has improved sleeping op- 1852/2064; a)

tions at the site considerably. Rooms are Inter-Pak Inn (%071-613617; Lab-e-Mehran; s/d
good enough, although the price reflects Rs 2000/2450; a)
Moenjodaro’s isolation rather than the mo-
tel’s quality. There’s a restaurant attached. You can catch a bus from Sukkur to
Alternatively, there’s the considerably sim- Hyderabad (Rs 280, five hours) and Karachi
pler Archaeology Resthouse (d ground/1st fl Rs 200/350), (air-con/standard Rs 480/360, seven hours).
which can be booked through the Directorate- PIA flies to Karachi daily.
General of Archaeology (%021-4521670, 021-4520638;
27-A Al-Asif Bldg, Shaheed-i-Millat Rd, Karachi). Karachi’s ROHRI
PTDC office can also help book it for you. Directly across the Indus River from Sukkur,
A separate choice is to bed down in nearby Rohri is an important rail and road junction.
Larkana, seat of the Bhutto family. The best The prime attraction is the brightly tiled
options here are the Green Palace (%0741-446924; Akbari Mosque, built by the Mughal emperor
[email protected]; Muhammad Bin Qasim Rd; s/d Akbar in 1583. The 1545 Shrine of Mau Mubarak,
Rs 500/700; a) or the Sapna Inn (%0741-444446; on the southern outskirts of Rohri, houses
Station Rd; s/d Rs 600/800; a). The Sapna can ar- what is claimed to be a hair of the Prophet
range transport and tours to Moenjodaro. Mohammed’s beard, in a casket. It is displayed
 © Lonely Planet Publications
180 T H E I N T E R I O R • • K o t D i j i lonelyplanet.com

CRACKING THE CODE

As well as founding the subcontinent’s earliest city-states, the people of the Indus Valley civilisa-
tion left behind one of the earliest known written records, written on everything from seals to
ceramics, offering an incredible insight into their culture. But to the chagrin of archaeologists, it
has proved immune to decipherment, frustrating both linguists and computer algorithms alike.
No two experts can agree on the subject. One academic has linked some of the characters to
astronomical and zodiacal symbols used in later Dravidian languages, and there are some sugges-
tions that it was a forerunner of Brahui, still spoken in Balochistan, and other languages surviving
in South India. Others claim that it was a forerunner of Sanskrit with a traditional alphabet of
letters (or possibly syllables) – an interpretation completely at odds with the third suggestion,
that they are actually pictograms in the manner of Egyptian hieroglyphics.
About 400 characters have been recognised, but they rarely appear in any recognisable com-
bination and are often qualified by strokes with no obvious meaning. All the examples found so
far are very short, no more than 17 characters in length, presenting a challenge knottier than the
toughest Sudoku puzzle. What’s really needed is a local equivalent of the Rosetta Stone – the
trilingual inscription that unlocked the key to the ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics. Until that ap-
pears, the language of the Moenjodarans is likely to remain shrouded in mystery.

to the public every 2 March; double-check days in a great conflagration, possibly at the
with Karachi’s PTDC office (p164). hands of the Moenjodarans, who appear to
have adopted many features of its layout and
KOT DIJI architecture. Little of visual interest remains
This is the site of a pre-Indus Valley civili- of the original settlement, and Kot Diji’s main
sation town dating from around 3500–2500 tourist attraction is its fort.
BC. Little is known of its history or inhabit- Kot Diji is 35km south of Rohri, on the
ants. Some archaeologists claim it ended its main Karachi–Sukkur bus route.
SINDH

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
181

Azad Jammu
& Kashmir
Azad Jammu & Kashmir (AJ&K) – azad means ‘free’ – is pre-Partition Kashmir’s western third,
administered by Pakistan under the terms of the 1949 UN ceasefire. Jammu, the southern
end of the Jammu & Kashmir state that Britain assembled from former Sikh territories in
1846, is mostly on the Indian-held side. Most Pakistanis feel the Indians wrongly and unfairly
took possession of the majority of the territory at Partition and that it has been occupied
illegally ever since. This all-consuming and divisive issue remains the dominant feature of
Pakistan-India relations.

Beautiful and tragic, AJ&K’s best feature is its natural splendour, exemplified by the forested
valleys of the Lesser Himalaya and the Pir Panjal Range, which forms the southwest rim of
the Vale of Kashmir. But beneath the beauty lie the destructive mountain-building forces
that have recently brought so much misfortune to this already troubled region.

Pakistan’s 16km security zone along the Line of Control puts the most scenic parts of AJ&K –
the Neelam Valley, the upper Jhelum Valley above Muzaffarabad, plus mountainous areas to
the south – off limits to would-be travellers. How easy it is to visit the remaining regions –
Muzaffarabad and the Nanga Parbat region, and the nonborder districts of Bagh, Poonch,
Kotli and Mirpur – depends on the current military climate along the Line of Control, the
whim of bureaucracy, whom you ask, and perhaps even what road you take to get there.

TRAVELLING IN AZAD JAMMU & KASHMIR

At the time of research, road border checkpoints were asking foreigners to produce a No Objection
Certificate (NOC) from the Ministry for Kashmir Affairs & Northern Areas in Islamabad.
To obtain a NOC, the easiest thing to do is to get a Pakistan-based travel agent to organise
your ‘tour’ and NOC. Independently, you will need to provide a letter explaining the areas you
wish to visit and the dates of the visits, together with two photocopies of your passport data
pages and visa, to the Ministry of Kashmir Affairs & Northern Areas (%051-9206580; Block S/R
AZAD JAMMU & KASHMIR

Secretariat, Islamabad). You may also be asked to provide an additional letter from your embassy or
high commission in Islamabad reaffirming that you are indeed the person stated in your passport
(your embassy may charge a fee for this service) and forward this to the Ministry of Foreign
Affairs (%051-9207917; Constitution Ave G-5/1, Islamabad). Apply as far in advance as possible as it’s
a long and convoluted procedure and at the end they may just say no.
The entry and permit situation is constantly subject to change; for the latest information
check with the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC) in any major Pakistani city,
and Muzaffarabad’s AJ&K Tourism (%058810-34623; fax 32625; Bank Sq, Chattar).
 182 A Z A D J A M M U & K A S H M I R lonelyplanet.com

AZAD JAMMU & KASHMIR 0

0
50 km
30 miles

NORTH-WEST Nanga Parbat Shuntar Gali

FRONTIER Region (4420m)
PROVINCE

Naran NORTHERN
AREAS
r
y

ve

Rati Gali
lle

Kel
Ri

Neelam
Va

(Rati Pass) Valley

ar

(4140m) Sharda
an

nh

Neelam
Rati Gali Sar
gh

Ku

River
Ka

Halmat
Dowarian
Line of Control
Nala

Neelam
Jagran

Shogran Jagran Athmaqam

Kutton
Kundal Shahi
Machiara
Balakot National Salkhala
Park
Garhi Nee Kashmir
Habibullah lam
(Indian-Administered)
Ri

Patikha
ver

Mansehra
Muzaffarabad Chananian ep
Le

Village a
KKH

Subri Lake
Ri

Reshian
Jh

ve

Garhi
elu

Dopata Riv Muzaffarabad

m

er PI
Dhani Hatian District
Baqalan R
Naili
Chikar Jhe PA Baramula
lum Chinari NJ
Loonbagla Va AL
Kohala Dungian lley Chakothi Uri Srinagar
RA
Sudhangali NG
Dhirkot E
Arja Bagh District
Bagh
Aliabad

Murree
Dhalkot l
tro
Rawalakot on
Poonch fC
eo
Azad Pattan Banjosa District Lin
Punch
Tararkhel
Palandri
Tattapani
ISLAMABAD Karote

Rawalpindi
Sensa r
Kotli
ve
Ri

Mandra
Poo n c h

Kotli
District
The external boundaries of Pakistan and
Grand Trunk

India on this map have not been

authenticated and may not be correct.

Mangla
Rd

Reservoir 16 km Security Zone

Mangla (Restricted Area)
Dam
AZAD JAMMU & KASHMIR

Mangla Mirpur
Dina Mirpur Samani
Naushahra
District

Jhelum Baghsar

PUNJAB Bhimber

To Gujrat
(20km) Jammu
lonelyplanet.com A Z A D J A M M U & K A S H M I R • • M u z a f f a r a b a d 183

History Department’s forestry resthouses and Public

Pakistan and India’s first act after Works Department (PWD) resthouses, or at
Independence was to go to war over Kashmir, least help with contacting the relevant district
and after two wars in 1947–48 and 1965, a forestry officers or PWD executive engineers
major clash in 1999 (the Kargil conflict) and in district capitals.
intermittent artillery exchanges, neither they
nor the UN has resolved the question of own- Getting There & Away
ership. Each country has thousands of troops See the boxed text (p181) for details on
in the region, and a separatist campaign has the bureaucratic hurdles that foreigners
simmered with occasional bloody flare-ups need to navigate to enter AJ&K. Entry to
on the Indian-held side, with India accused Muzaffarabad district is from Mansehra
of routine atrocities and Pakistan of training (crossing at Gahri Habibullah) or Murree
Kashmiri guerrillas. In the last six decades (crossing at Kohala). At times of high
there have been ceasefires, agreements, talks Kashmir fever you’re probably less likely
and positive bilateral moves, yet fundamental to be turned away coming from Murree.
differences remain and the potential for esca- Direct routes from Rawalpindi to Poonch
lating conflict is never far away. For details, district via Dhalkot and Azad Pattan are
see p32. off limits to foreigners as they run close to
the Pakistan Institute of Nuclear Science &
Climate Technology (Pinstech); the same may be true
Muzaffarabad city and the southern districts of the Karote crossing to Kotli district. Other
can be visited year-round, and the south is roads enter Mirpur district from Jhelum over
most comfortable in winter. The mountainous Mangla Dam, and from Gujrat to Bhimber.
Neelam and upper Jhelum Valleys and eastern At the time of research, Pakistan
Bagh and Poonch districts are accessible from International Airlines (PIA) had suspended
at least May to October, although July to early flights from Islamabad to Muzaffarabad and
September brings monsoon rains. Rawalakot, though it’s worth checking to see
if they have been reinstated.
Accommodation
There are midrange and budget hotels in MUZAFFARABAD
the towns of Muzaffarabad, Bagh, Kotli, %058810 / pop 90,000
Rawalakot and Mirpur. In more remote AJ&K’s capital was just 25km from the epi-
areas, the only option may be a government centre of the devastating 2005 earthquake and
resthouse. AJ&K Tourism’s resthouses are the city is still recovering, with reconstruction
good value and tourists receive priority. and temporary shelter still much in evidence.
Prior booking is essential in tourist seasons, Muzaffarabad used to be just another stop
though most chowkidars (caretakers) will on the road to Srinagar – but a strategic one,
accommodate you even without a booking at the confluence of the Neelam and Jhelum
if there’s a vacancy. AJ&K Tourism should Rivers. Its sole tourist attraction is a 17th-
also be able to help with booking the Forestry century fort built by the town’s founder,

THE EARTHQUAKE OF 2005

At 8.50am on 8 October 2005, a massive earthquake struck Kashmir (see also boxed text, p64).
The epicentre was around 20km from the capital, Muzaffarabad. The damage was massive and
extensive: over 80,000 lives lost, countless injuries, and cities and towns reduced to rubble.
AZAD JAMMU & KASHMIR

The death and destruction stretched to Islamabad and Indian-held Kashmir, but Azad Kashmir
and nearby towns in the North-West Frontier Province fared the worst. At the time of writing,
the Pakistani and international aid efforts and the resilience of the people were very much in
evidence, but the magnitude of the devastation was still shocking and the ongoing needs of
the relief effort remained obvious. Numerous organisations, international and local, are provid-
ing aid and assistance and welcome donations. It is important to examine the legitimacy of
the agency when making a donation, being mindful of allegations of corruption and links to
terrorist organisations.
 184 A Z A D J A M M U & K A S H M I R • • M u z a f f a r a b a d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

a chief of the Chak tribe named Muzaffar BLACK FORT

Khan, to ward off the Mughal armies of The Mughals built this fort (also called Gojra
Emperor Akbar. Fort) above the river junction but it’s used by
the army and is off limits to visitors.
Orientation
The city is strung for 4km along the Neelam Sleeping & Eating
River, above its junction with the Jhelum While earthquake relief efforts continue, ac-
River. South of the junction in an area called commodation options will remain limited
Chattar are AJ&K government offices. Long- though ever-increasing. AJ&K Tourism has
distance buses use the general bus stand across a clean, quiet resthouse by the Red Fort, with
the Neelam from the bazaar, but passengers doubles with hot shower and air-con. In sum-
arriving from Murree may be dropped in mer it’s wise to book ahead. Other budget
Bank Rd. options are available at the general bus stand,
near Bank Rd, and at Domel, the junction of
Information the Jhelum and Neelum Rivers.
The AJ&K Tourism office (%34623/4/5; fax 32625; Midrange options with air-con rooms
Bank Sq, Chattar) will give you reliable informa- equipped with phone, TV and good restau-
tion on open areas, sights and transport, and rants are very scarce but the situation is im-
help with accommodation. To get there take proving. At the time of research the Sangam
a Suzuki from Bank Rd and ask for Bank Hotel (%44194), by the junction of the Jhelum
Sq. Across the road is the AJ&K Secretariat, and Neelam Rivers, had been rebuilt and was
with government offices including the fully operational; whereas the Hotel Neelum
Home Department. The undersecretary View, by the Red Fort, was still under re-
or additional secretary there may issue No construction and not yet offering rooms. A
Objection Certificates (see the boxed text, new Pearl Continental Hotel (www.pchotels.com) was
p181) to travellers who have entered AJ&K under construction between Chattar and the
without a permit. junction of the rivers.
Post offices are in the bazaar and at Chattar,
and there is a telephone exchange on Bank Getting There & Away
Rd. The superintendent of police is located AIR
at Narol, near the Old Secretariat between The PIA booking office (%6299) is beside AJ&K
Chattar and the bazaar. For changing money Tourism in Chattar, though no airline was
there is a National Bank in Bank Rd and pri- operating flights to/from Muzaffarabad at the
vate moneychangers in the bazaar. time of research.

Sights BUS
RED FORT From the general bus stand, regular buses and
Also called Muzaffarabad Fort (admission free; minibuses go to Mansehra (Rs 60, 1½ hours),
h9am-6pm), this stronghold at a kink in with dramatic views into the Jhelum and
the Neelam River was completed by Sultan Kunhar Valleys; Murree (Rs 100, 2½ hours);
Muzaffar Khan in 1646. The Mughals built and Rawalpindi’s Pir Wadhai (Rs 160, four
their own fort and its importance waned, but hours) via Murree. For the Kaghan Valley, take
the Dogra rulers of Jammu & Kashmir state a Mansehra bus and change at Garhi Habibullah
rebuilt and enlarged this one. It’s been tidied (Rs 30, 40 minutes). Other buses connect with
up for tourists, though significantly damaged Bagh, Rawalakot and southern AJ&K.
by the quake, with an eclectic small museum
AZAD JAMMU & KASHMIR

inside and a tourist resthouse next door. By Getting Around

Suzuki it’s five minutes from the bazaar; ask Suzukis go from Bank Rd to both ends of the
for the qila (fort). city, north out on Neelam Rd from the Bank
Rd Suzuki stand, and south to Chattar from
BAZAAR the switchbacks leading up to the bazaar. The
You’ll find some of Kashmir’s best-known cost is about Rs 20 from one end of town to
handicrafts, including brightly coloured wool- the other. Motorised rickshaws go everywhere
len shawls and walnut woodcarvings, in the and cost about Rs 100 from Chattar to the
mazelike bazaar above Bank Rd. Red Fort.
lonelyplanet.com A Z A D J A M M U & K A S H M I R • • N e e l a m Va l l e y 185

NEELAM VALLEY and PWD resthouses. Nine kilometres on at

Running through the Lesser Himalaya, Neelam village (also called Karan) is a tour-
the 200km Neelam River valley (called the ist resthouse. Along here the Line of Control
Kishanganga before Partition) is AJ&K’s comes almost to the river.
main attraction – or would be if there was no
Line of Control, which in places is just a few Dowarian
kilometres away. Like the Kaghan Valley that From Dowarian, 22km above Athmaqam,
runs parallel to it, it’s famous for trekking, a track leads 30km up to 4140m Rati Gali
fishing and enjoying nature. The river and a (Rati Pass) and on towards the Lalazar
side valley, the Jagran Nala, are stocked with Plateau in the Kaghan Valley. Near the pass
trout. Trails cross several 4000m passes into is Rati Gali Sar, an alpine lake. Dowarian has a
the Kaghan Valley. forestry resthouse.
A paved road runs halfway up the valley,
and a 4WD track continues for much of the Sharda
rest. Buses go from Muzaffarabad at least to This opening in the valley, 30km beyond
Athmaqam, and passenger 4WDs go as far as Dowarian, is said to be Neelam Valley’s most
Kel. In the past the valley has been open up beautiful spot. Nearby are ruins of a Buddhist
to Kel, but at the time of research foreigners monastery or school, and there are options for
could go no further than Patikha (Pataka), treks into the far north of Kaghan Valley. In
17km northeast of Muzaffarabad. The follow- Sharda (or Shardi) town is a tourist resthouse
ing information may be useful when/if travel and a youth hostel.
restrictions for foreigners ease.
Kel & Halmat
Machiara National Park From Kel, 19km past Sharda and at 2100m,
The forested Ganga Mountains, a branch of a long trek goes towards Nanga Parbat over
the Himalayan foothills, separate the Neelam the 4420m Shuntar Gali. You would have to
and Kaghan Valleys and provide a fragile hire a 4WD or horse for the 38km from here
home to brown bear, ibex, Himalayan griffon to Halmat, beyond which the valley goes into
vulture, western tragopan, lammergeier and, Indian-held territory.
allegedly, snow leopard. In 1996 the southern Kel has a tourist resthouse (currently
slopes were brought within a new protected occupied by the army) and Halmat has a
area management plan, and a small game re- tourist hut.
serve there grew into the 135-sq-km Machiara
National Park. JHELUM VALLEY
The park is reached via Patikha. Treks run Once this steep-walled valley was the axis of
from the park over high passes to Shogran on travel and trade with the Vale of Kashmir. The
the Kaghan side (at least two nights out) and road runs 60km through the Pir Panjal Range
to the Bichla-Manur Valley. Check with the to Chakothi village at the Line of Control. At
AJ&K Tourism office (%058810-34623; fax 32625; Bank the time of research foreigners could go as far
Sq, Chattar) in Muzaffarabad before considering as Hatian, about 40km from Muzaffarabad.
this trip. Most worth visiting are the hill stations
on the road to Bagh. Regular buses go from
Kundal Shahi & Jagran Nala Muzaffarabad up the valley and to Bagh.
At Kundal Shahi, 75km from Muzaffarabad, is
the pretty side valley of Jagran Nala. Spartan Subri Lake
forestry resthouses and tourist huts are 3km Eight kilometres from Muzaffarabad, the
AZAD JAMMU & KASHMIR

up the Neelam at Salkhala, 8km up the Jagran Jhelum was dammed into a lake by a landslide
Nala at Kutton and currently occupied by the in 1975. The rustic angler’s hut was destroyed
army, and further on at Jagran village. There by the 2005 earthquake; for new developments
are trout hatcheries at Salkhala and Kutton. inquire at Muzaffarabad’s AJ&K Tourism office
(%058810-34623; fax 32625; Bank Sq, Chattar).
Athmaqam & Neelam
Ten kilometres past Kundal Shahi is Hill Stations
Athmaqam, the regional headquarters, with At Dhani Baqalan, about 30km from
a district forestry office and tourist, forestry Muzaffarabad, a road branches south into
 © Lonely Planet Publications
186 A Z A D J A M M U & K A S H M I R • • B a g h , P o o n c h , K o t l i & M i r p u r D i s t r i c t s lonelyplanet.com

the hills past several small hill stations. Sitting visit to Jhelum and Rohtas Fort (p137), and
between 1800m and 2100m, these former co- a Mughal fort at Baghsar (close to the Line of
lonial ‘resorts’, like the Galis just to the west in Control and probably off limits).
North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), offer
bracing weather, good walks and views. Sleeping
Chikar, 15km from the turning, has local Book tourist and forestry resthouses with dis-
inns. A tourist resthouse and a PWD rest- trict forestry officers in Bagh, Rawalakot, Kotli
house were both destroyed by the 2005 earth- or Mirpur. Book Bagh and Poonch District
quake. Ten kilometres on is Loonbagla, then PWD resthouses with the executive engineer
Dungian and Sudhangali; each used to boast in Rawalakot.
a tourist resthouse or PWD resthouse but
all were inoperable at the time of research. BAGH
From Sudhangali you can day-hike up the Bagh town has a few budget hotels. In Dhirkot
3000m Ganga Choti peak. Southwards the there are three tourist huts and a forestry
road descends towards Bagh. resthouse.

Leepa Valley POONCH

The Leepa River is actually a tributary of the In Rawalakot there are two tourist resthouses
Neelam but the road runs from the Jhelum and budget and midrange hotels; Banjosa has
River at Naili, 45km from Muzaffarabad, then a tourist resthouse and a PWD resthouse;
over the 3200m Reshian Gali. Locals say it’s and Tararkhel and Palandri have forestry and
AJ&K’s loveliest valley but unfortunately it’s PWD resthouses. Tattapani’s tourist hotel has
presently off limits to foreigners. Apparently hot-spring baths.
only passenger 4WDs go beyond Reshian.
KOTLI
BAGH, POONCH, KOTLI & MIRPUR Kotli town has a PWD resthouse and there are
DISTRICTS cheap hotels opposite the bus stand and in the
The forested highlands of Bagh and Poonch bazaar. There is a forestry resthouse at Sensa.
Districts are picturesque but no match for
northern AJ&K, or Hazara in NWFP. Of most MIRPUR
interest are the modest hill resorts of Dhirkot, Also known as ‘little England’, Mirpur is
Banjosa and Tararkhel and the hot springs the ‘old country’ to many UK residents of
at Tattapani on the Poonch River, though South Asian descent. Old Mirpur town went
they’re all packed with local holidaymakers under the waters of Mangla Dam and the bus-
in summer. tling new Mirpur town has a good selection
Hilly Kotli District and mostly flat, hot of budget and midrange hotels as well as a
Mirpur District haven’t much to offer other forestry resthouse and a PWD resthouse. In
than Mangla Reservoir, best seen as part of a Bhimber there is a forestry resthouse.
AZAD JAMMU & KASHMIR

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
187

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
North-West Frontier
Province
North-West Frontier Province (NWFP) seems a region named purely for the romance of travel.
A quick look at the map tells you why, with the Khyber Pass to Afghanistan, the peaks of
the Hindukush, the towns of Peshawar and Chitral all speaking of rugged mountains, proud
tribesmen and Kipling-style adventure.

In the valleys of Peshawar and Swat, the ancient, influential region of Gandhara blossomed,
its Buddhist art and doctrines spreading into Asia. It left behind a parade of archaeological
sites, many yet to be fully explored by travellers. Later inhabitants left a less tangible but
equally famous legacy. The Pashtun tribes gave bloody noses to some of history’s most
famous conquerors, even earning themselves the respect of the British soldiers who they
frequently fought to a standstill. The autonomous Tribal Areas were born of those conflicts,
and their inhabitants hold the Pakistani government at arm’s length to this day.

More peaceful inhabitants are the Kalasha, pagans clinging onto their old rituals in isolated
valleys near Chitral against the odds. The Kalasha region is one of the most stunning parts
of the Hindukush range, but the whole of northern NWFP is ideal trekking country, from
Chitral to the green slopes of the Swat Valley.

For all the tradition, NWFP remains closely tied to the present. Modern politics makes strong
headlines, with the Tribal Areas and radical Islam regularly impacting on the national stage.
While local insecurities tend to happen in areas away from travellers’ interests, visitors should
be aware of underlying tensions, and take advice on the current situation before travelling.

HIGHLIGHTS
Get lost in the atmosphere of Peshawar’s Old City
(p193), where the traditional and modern collide in a
maze of bazaars Kalasha Chitral
Valleys
Venture up to the Khyber Pass (p200) on the Afghan
border, the age-old invasion route to the
Swat
subcontinent
Khyber
Explore the traditional pagan culture of the Kalasha Pass
Peshawar
(p228), in their ancient valleys high in the
Hindukush
Take in the mountain views (and rugged moun-
tain roads) in the old kingdom of Chitral (p220)
Chill out in Swat (p207), the lush valley that’s
played host to everyone from Alexander the
Great and great Buddhist empires to modern
Pakistani honeymooners

POPULATION: 19,630,000 AREA: 74,521 SQ KM

 188 N O R T H - W E S T F R O N T I E R P R O V I N C E • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER PROVINCE 0

0
150 km
90 miles

A B C D
See Chitral District Map (p221) CHINA
Boroghil Pass
TAJIKISTAN (3777m)

1 Lasht

U SH Darkot
UK Pass
ND
Tribal Areas HI NORTHERN AREAS
Buni Mastuj Karimabad
The external boundaries of Pakistan Gilgit
& India on this map have not been Dorah
Pass Chitral Rive
authenticated and may not be correct. r

Hunza
Chitral Shandur Pass
Gol NP Chitral (3810m)
Gilgit

Ri
See Dir & Swat Districts Map (p208)

ve
AFGHANISTAN

r
Drosh
2 Indus
Kalam Kohistan
35
Chilas

lley
Lowari Pass KKH
(3118m)

Va
Swat Babusar Nanga

er
us
Madyan Ind Parbat

Riv
Dir Pass
Nameh
Pass
Besham In
dus
Dir Khwazakhela
Naran
Timargarha Shangla Pass KK
BAJAUR H of Control
Mingora (2134m) Batagram Line
KABUL Kabul Malakand
Malakand Pass Mansehra
Riv MOHMAND Muzaffarabad
Jalalabad
er See Around
Mardan
3 Charsadda Mardan Map Abbottabad
Khyber Pass Swabi (p205)
Peiwar Peshawar Pla
in Nowshera AZAD JAMMU
Pass Tarbela Havelian & KASHMIR
PESHAWAR Reservoir
Parachinar Darra Adam Murree
KHYBER Khel
KURRAM Taxila ISLAMABAD
ORAKZAI Attock
Rawalpindi
Kohat
See Around Peshawar Map (p201) Mandra
Thal

Tochi Bannu Kalabagh

4 Pass
Jhelum 5
NORTH Chakwal
WAZIRISTAN G
ra
nd
Indus Hwy

INDIA
Tru

Mianwali
nk

PUNJAB
SOUTH
Rd

WAZIRISTAN Khushab
Tank
r
ive
R

Gomal
us

Pass
Ind

Mughai Dera Ismail

Khan
Takht-i-Suleiman LAHORE
(3374m)
5
Faisalabad
Nationa
l Hwy
To Quetta
(250km) Zhob
To Multan
To DG Khan (140km)
BALOCHISTAN (96km)

History flourished. Ashoka of the Mauryan empire

The Peshawar plain – the broad Kabul River opened Gandhara to Buddhism in the 3rd
Valley from the Khyber Pass to the Indus – century BC, succeeded by the Kushans from
was called Gandhara by its early Hindu in- Afghanistan in the 1st to 3rd centuries AD.
habitants. It was a far province of both the The Kushans bore traces of Alexander’s
Persian Achaemenid empire and Alexander Hellenistic culture and produced the sublime
the Great’s dominion, but it was through Graeco-Buddhist art for which Gandhara
Buddhism, however, that the region really is famous. It was from here that Buddhist
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H - W E S T F R O N T I E R P R O V I N C E • • Pe o p l e 189

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
thought evolved and spread deeper into Asia. from the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan

PROVINCE
When the Kushans eventually declined, so (it’s thought that around half that number
did Buddhism, although it clung on in parts still remain in Pakistan). Since 9/11, NWFP
of Swat until the 15th century. has been sucked back into regional events.
Islam first appeared in the region in the As the Tribal Areas become increasingly
8th century, with Arab armies even clashing radicalised by Islamist groups, the Pakistani
with the Chinese near Chitral. However, Islam military attempts to bring the region under
didn’t get a firm foothold until the Afghans governmental control.
started empire-building again through
Mahmud of Ghazni in the 11th century, and People
the Ghorid dynasty a century later. Not that NWFP, along with northern Balochistan
there was long to enjoy the fruits of conquest – and southern Afghanistan, is the land of the
Genghis Khan stormed through Peshawar in Pashtuns. A diverse, proud and martial people,
1221, with Tamerlane (Timur) repeating the they constitute one of the world’s largest tribal
same trick at the end of the 14th century. groups. The British could barely conceal their
The Mughals eventually brought stabil- admiration for the fighting abilities of the
ity, taking the Peshawar and Swat Valleys Pashtuns, even when lined up against them.
under their rule, with Peshawar a favourite One thing that appeals to many foreigners is the
retreat for Mughal rulers. But the Pashtuns Pashtuns’ ironclad, if sometimes bloody, moral
were unruly subjects, and in 1680 the Pashtun code, known as Pashtunwali or Pukhtunwali
warrior-poet Khushal Khan Khattak returned (see the boxed text, p190). Pashtuns dominate
Peshawar to the Afghans. NWFP to the southern tip of Chitral, the mid-
Somewhat foolishly, the subsequent Afghan dle of Swat and from Besham across the Indus
Durrani dynasty granted governorship of to Batagram and Mansehra.
Lahore to the Sikh maharaja Ranjit Singh,
who proceeded to expand his domain into a Climate
small empire. In 1818 the Sikhs occupied the Central NWFP, featuring the verdant valleys
Peshawar Valley and ransacked Peshawar. of the Swat and Indus Rivers, receives the
The British picked up the pieces after the edge of the monsoon rains in summer. The
collapse of Sikh rule, and the Afghans never saw lower reaches of the valleys are hot and humid
Peshawar again. British policy was all about sub- from June to mid-September. The upper val-
duing the tribes on their ‘northwest frontier’. leys and mountainous north are pleasantly
They’d failed to bring the Afghans to heel in two mild and usually dry at this time, but heavy
disastrous wars (1838–42 and 1878–80), so in rain can fall at any time in the mountains.
1893 imposed a common border, the so-called Winter is bitterly cold and long in the moun-
Durand Line. In 1901 NWFP was made a sepa- tains with the passes blocked by snow for
rate province, and the Pashtuns bought off by months at a time.
granting them the autonomous Tribal Areas. Around Peshawar and the south, the plains
The province has remained key in Pakistan’s and low rocky mountains are usually dry and
post-Independence politics. In the 1980s it hot (extremely so in summer) with pleasantly
swelled with almost four million refugees warm days and cold nights in winter.

TRAVELLING SAFELY IN NWFP

Tribal feuds are a risk to travellers who go off the main roads in the Tribal Areas, where Pakistani
law has no force and the authorities are almost powerless to help you. In any case, these areas
are closed to foreigners. In late 2007, the Swat Valley was the scene of an Islamist uprising against
the central government, and was turned briefly into an active military zone. Anti-government
(and anti-Western) sentiment is likely to persist in the area for the foreseeable future, putting
this beautiful region out of bounds. Anti-government violence has also been reported in Dir
district, making stops here unadvisable. Across the province, avoid travel at night, whether by
bus or private transport, particularly in remote mountainous or tribal areas. If you are unsure,
ask the police or the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC) in the nearest town
about personal safety issues for your intended journey.
 190 P E S HA W A R lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

THE WAY OF THE PASHTUN

Pashtunwali, the Pashtun moral code, has traditionally taken precedence over any external laws,
acting as a constitution for Pashtun society. Although often interpreted by the West as shorthand
for tribal extremism, it provides a surprisingly open and democratic code for managing tribal
affairs within the conservative and feudal nature of Pashtun society. Its key concepts are siali
(individual equality), nang (honour) and melmastia (hospitality). Group decisions are a matter for
a council of elders, or jirga.
Nang is central to Pashtun identity, most importantly that of the family (and women in particu-
lar). Melmastia is the showing of hospitality to all visitors without expectation of reward. This can
even go as far as offering sanctuary to a criminal, and laying down one’s life for a guest. From
these two pillars flows the concept of badal – the obligation to avenge an insult of injustice to
the individual, family or clan. Injustices can be those committed on the day or a century ago – a
practice which readily leads to blood feuds, and is a major reason why Pashtun villages can often
resemble collections of small forts. The vanquished in a fight may go to the victor in absolute
submission for forgiveness. The winner is expected to show magnanimity to restore the balance
of honour, a practice called nanawatai.
The post-9/11 radicalisation of the Afghan-Pakistan border areas has caused Pashtunwali to
be both threatened and reinterpreted, with tribal power in many cases shifting from the elders
to the young men with guns.

Swat is shared by Pashtuns with Kohistanis over the local Pashtun population. Recent elec-
(who spread to the Karakoram Highway) tions have returned a provincial government
and the Gujars, nomadic herders who sympathetic to the Taliban. West and south of
spend winter in the foothills and then drive the city, highways lead into the autonomous
their animals up the roads to high pastures Tribal Areas where government writ vanishes
in summer. the second you step off the main road: visitors
Chitral is a real ethnic patchwork. Indigenous to the Khyber Pass must be accompanied by an
Chitralis are descended from the ancient Kho, armed tribal escort.
and while most are Sunni Muslims, many Atmosphere is all in Peshawar. The old
northerners are Ismailis, followers of the Aga city is a warren of bazaars, where samovars
Khan, including the seminomadic Wakhi in dispense green tea into tiny enamelled pots,
the far northeast, where the mountains blend which are raced by eager boys to reclining
into Afghanistan and Tajikistan. merchants through an air thick with the smell
Chitral’s best-known minority is the non- of kebabs, rickshaws fumes and the cacoph-
Muslim Kalasha, remnants of a much wider ony of an endless parade of (mostly male)
community that once stretched across south- humanity. Modernity abruptly collides with
ern Chitral and Nuristan in Afghanistan. tradition – there are more autorickshaws than
They now live a peaceful but poverty-line camels and mobile phones are everywhere,
existence in three valleys southwest of but Peshawar’s past remains persuasive,
Chitral town. tangible, visible.
Away from the throng of the old city, the
PESHAWAR British cantonment has shady boulevards,
churches, army quarters and lavish high-
%091 / pop 1.24 million walled homes. The city’s post-Partition face
Peshawar (pronounced pu-shah-wur) conjures includes well-to-do University Town and the
images of romance, intrigue and danger – the sprawling administrative-residential township
archetypal frontier town. Sat at the foot of the of Hayatabad.
Khyber Pass, it has been an important trading Peshawar’s close relationship with
town and staging post for invasions for cen- Afghanistan continues. Waves of refugees
turies, its fortunes often more closely linked swelled the population in the 1980s, making
to affairs in Kabul than the flat lands of the up a sizable minority. Many still live in the
Indus and Punjab. Even today, the Pakistani refugee camps outside the city limits. Much
government maintains an often tenuous hold of the city’s exotic character is derived from
lonelyplanet.com P E S HA W A R • • H i s t o r y 191

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
PESHAWAR 0
0 1 mile
2 km

To Charsadda (27km);
A B C Mardan (60km); D
Mingora (165km);
INFORMATION EATING Chitral (355km)
Alliance Française...............................1 A2 Shiraz Restaurant...............................6 A2
British Council Library.........................2 A3

d
dda R
1 Iranian Consulate...............................3 A3 TRANSPORT
Mission Hospital.................................4 C2 Sadabaha Bus Stand - Minibuses to Darra

Charsa
Adam Khel, Kohat, Bannu & Dera Ismail
SLEEPING Khan..............................................7 C3
Hotel Grand.......................................5 A2
Peshawar

Mic
City Train
See Peshawar Old City Map (p195)

hn
Station

iR
d
Grand Trunk Rd
Khyber Rd
Bala Hisar To General
Bus Stand (1km);

Jheel Rd
Gunner Rd
Rd Fort

Tariq Rd
Michni Rd
Babar Rd
Daewoo Terminal (1km);
ar

Rd
(Jamrud Rd) dd Islamabad (162km)
To Islamia College (500m); Sa y R d
er
2 Hayatabad (3km); 5 Kh
yb il wa Old City
Smugglers' Bazaar (14km); Ho

Ra
Khyber Pass (50km) 6 Cantonment
Rd d sp
y lR
ali
ita
Peshawar t
rsi J all
lR
University ive 4
Rd
Kh

Un e M Rd
d
jid
ad

Th r as
im

d da M Peshawar
Sh

Sa i
hr Cantonment
ah

1 3 ne
ee

Park Rd Su Train Station

dR

Bhanamari
Rd

2 Chinar Rd Chowk
Airport
ber

7
Khy

Koha
t Rd

3 University Town See Peshawar Cantonment &

Saddar Bazaar Map (p192)
Rd

To Ziarat Rahman Baba (3km);

ra
Ba

Darra Adam Khel (20km);

Kohat (90km); Bannu (210km);
Dera Ismail Khan (350km)

this Afghan connection, as is its reputation for Like the Kushans, the Afghan kings fa-
intrigue (and occasional instability). voured Peshawar as a winter residence, and
Modern Peshawar almost chokes on its were aggrieved when the upstart Sikh kingdom
popularity. Amid tough competition, it snatched it in 1818 and levelled its buildings.
makes a strong bid for the most polluted city This coincided with the start of the Great Game,
in Pakistan. Everyone seems to be in busi- and Afghan desire to regain Peshawar helped
ness, and politics and religion are often on draw Britain into the first Anglo-Afghan war.
the street. A conservative city, but one buzz- When the Sikh kingdom faded into history,
ing with life, Peshawar remains a fascinating the British made Peshawar their frontier head-
place to get lost in. quarters until Partition. From the Soviet inva-
sion of Afghanistan to the post-9/11 landscape,
HISTORY Peshawar’s strategic significance continues.
The early city, known as Pushapur (the City
of Flowers), first came to prominence as the ORIENTATION
winter capital of the Buddhist Kushans, con- The main landmark on the Grand Trunk Rd
temporaries of Rome and Han China, and (GT Rd) from Rawalpindi is Bala Hisar Fort,
was a centre of both Gandharan art and pil- with the Old City south and east of it. West
grimage. It became Muslim under the Afghan from the Cantonment train station stretches the
Ghaznavids in the 11th century, later fall- Cantonment (Cantt), within which is Saddar
ing under the sway of the Mughal empire, Bazaar (often referred to simply as Saddar).
who like earlier rulers recognised its strategic On Jamrud Rd, 4km west of the
importance at the foot of the Khyber Pass. Cantonment, is University Town. Further
The Mughals filled Peshawar with gardens, out, two roads turn south to Hayatabad. Still
mosques and monuments rivalling those of further is the Kachagari refugee camp and
Lahore and Delhi, until the Afghans wrested Smugglers’ Bazaar; beyond this, the road
it back from their control in the 1680s. heads to the Khyber Pass.
 192 P E S HA W A R • • I n f o r m a t i o n lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

PESHAWAR CANTONMENT & SADDAR BAZAAR 0

0
400 m
0.2 miles

Rd
British

Jheel Rd
Fort Rd

sim
Cemetery

Qa
Jam Edwardes
r ud R College
d
To University
Town (2km) 12 1

li d Rd
Ho
Khalid-

sp
The Mall 7

ita
bin-Walid

a
lR

Kh
Bagh

d
Cantonment 16
8
27 25
State Bank
State 17 Peshawar
Building
Bank Cantonment
Rd
il Building Train Station
J al 26 23 Rd
all Dean's 24

Ko
Rd M jid Rd
e as

ha
er Th Trade ay
yb

t
Centre ri M ilw
Kh
Sir

Rd
6 h Ra
19 ne
Sy

13
5 Su
ed

9 3
Rd

2 Rd
Ar

ar
b

10
Sahi dd Fowara
ab

bzad
a Sa Chowk
Rd

Gul
Rd 21 Saddar 11
Kh

Mosque
ad

20 Sunehri
im

22 14 Mosque
Sh

15
ah

18
ee
d
Rd

SLEEPING
l
Mal

Green's Hotel...................................13 C2
New Mehran Hotel...........................14 C2
The

Qayyum Sindbad Hotel...................................15 B3

Rafi Stadium Tourists Inn Motel............................16 C1
q ue
Rd
EATING
INFORMATION Abdullah Jans Super Store................17 C2
Mu Afghan Consulate..............................1 D1 Fruit & Vegetable Stands..................18 B3
ne er R Foreigners' Registration Office...........2 A2 Hong Kong Restaurant.....................19 B2
d 4
Habib Bank........................................3 C2 Lala's Grill......................................(see 13)
Rd

Khyber Political Agent's Office...........4 B3 Shiraz Restaurant..............................20 B2

ium

Main Post Office................................5 C2 Silver Star Cafe.................................21 B2

Stad

National Bank.....................................6 C2
Pak Telecom Central Telegraph & TRANSPORT
Telephone Office...........................7 D1 Aero Asia..........................................22 B2
Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation Air Arabia.........................................23 C2
(PTDC) Office................................8 D1 Air Blue............................................24 C2
PIA.....................................................9 B2 Emirates............................................25 C1
Saeed Book Bank..............................10 B2 Gulf Air..........................................(see 25)
Speedex Net Café............................11 C2 Qatar Airways................................(see 13)
Rd

Standard Chartered Bank...............(see 25) Sehrai Travels...................................26 C2

US Consulate....................................12 B1 Shaheen Air International.................27 C1
ra
Ba

The general bus stand and the Daewoo ter- stocked with titles on NWFP and Afghanistan, novels and
minal are on the GT Rd, about 3km east of international magazines.
the fort. Peshawar Cantonment Train Station
is between Saddar and the Old City and the Consulates
airport is west of the Cantonment. Afghan consulate (Map p192; %5285962; The Mall,
Saddar; h9am-1pm Tue & Thu) Issues one-month visas
Maps for US$30, issued on the same day. Bring one photo and
A reasonable 1:26,000 Peshawar Guide Map is a passport photocopy, and expect an interview with the
available for free from the Pakistan Tourism consul if you’re applying as a tourist. The visa fee is paid
Development Corporation (PTDC) office upstairs at the Standard Chartered Bank around the corner
(opposite) in Saddar Rd. on Islamia Rd.
Iranian consulate (Map p191; %9285962; Park Ave,
INFORMATION University Town) A one-month visa with two passport
Bookshops photos costs Rs 3000 (women must have their head
Saeed Book Bank (Map p192; Arbab Rd, Saddar) Far covered). Travellers report mixed success applying in
and away Peshawar’s leading bookshop, comprehensively Peshawar; Islamabad may be more reliable.
lonelyplanet.com P E S HA W A R • • S i g h t s 193

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
Post

PROVINCE
US consulate (Map p192; %5279801; 11 Hospital Rd,
Cantonment) Main post office (Map p192; Saddar Rd) Come here to
send parcels and for poste restante.
Cultural Centres
Alliance Française (Map p191; 1 Park Rd, University Tourist Information
Town) PTDC office (Map p192; %5286829; Benevolent Fund
British Council Library (Map p191; %5842633; Bldg, Saddar Rd; h9am-1pm & 2-4.30pm Mon-Thu &
British Council Bldg, 17C Chinar Rd, University Town; Sat, 9am-noon Fri) Extremely helpful and organised tourist
hnoon-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat) office, with free maps and excellent information on local
sites, hotels and transport timetables. Can also advise on
Emergency guides and arrange tours, from the Old City to as far as the
Police station (Map p195; %15; Qissa Khawani) The Kalasha valleys.
police emergency number is available to call 24 hours
a day. SIGHTS
The Old City
Foreigners’ Registration The best reason to visit Peshawar, the Old
Foreigners’ Registration Office (FRO; Map p192; City is a crowded maze, raucous with the
Sahibzada Gul Rd) Only nationals of 16 countries shouts of vendors and mule drivers, clogged
are required to register – see p378. To get here, with horse-drawn carts, rickshaws, motorcy-
grab a rickshaw and ask for Police Chowk cles and a fascinating parade of Pashtun and
No 2. Afghan men – and a few women, anonymous
in their burkas or bright in their shalwar
Internet Access kameez (traditional dress-like tunic and
There are numerous internet cafés, though trouser combination). The meandering
they are not always obvious from the street streets lure you into dark passages full of
and you may have to ask around. Expect to tiny shops bulging with goods piled high.
pay around Rs 20 per hour. In this ancient city of trade, everything is for
Speedex Net Café (Map p192; off Fowara Chowk, sale. See map p195 for the following sights.
Saddar) Rather incongruously stuck behind a car spare- From the Cantonment you approach the
parts shop, but it has good connections. Old City along Railway Rd and through
Khyber Internet (Map p195; Khyber Bazaar) Khyber Bazaar, consisting mostly of cheap
hotels, kebab stands and carpet merchants
Medical Services (stand around in the bazaar for a few min-
Dabgari Rd in the Old City is good for phar- utes and one will sidle up to you). The city
macies, as well as two hospitals. wall and its 16 gates were knocked down in
Khyber Medical Centre (Map p195; %2211241; the 1950s but many gates remain in name.
Dabgari Rd, Old City) Kabuli Gate is where Khyber Bazaar becomes
Mission Hospital (Map p191; %9217140; Dabgari Rd, Qissa Khawani, the old ‘Street of Storytellers’.
Old City) It is Peshawar’s most famous bazaar, but
Lady Reading Hospital (%9211430; Hospital Rd, there’s little memory left of the traders and
Old City) travellers that would gather here to swap
tales; most of its teashops have given way
Money to clothes and electrical shops. To the left
The moneychangers around Chowk Yadgar round the corner, brass and copperware are for
in the Old City are open all day for quick sale in what used to be the old bird market.
and convenient cash changing; there are also Soon the aroma of tea and spice hints of a
several private moneychangers on Saddar Rd pocket of traders carrying on another ancient
near Green’s Hotel. The following banks do enterprise. To the east of this are cloth and
foreign exchange: shoe shops, and deeper in, you’ll find the
Habib Bank (Map p192; Saddar Rd) nut and grain market of Pipal Mandi. To the
National Bank Bajori Rd (Map p195); near Rampur Gate south is All Saints Church (Church Rd), adapted
(Map p195); Saddar Rd (Map p192) from a former mosque in 1883 and still cor-
Standard Chartered Bank (Map p192; Islamia Rd) Will rectly oriented towards Mecca. A bird market
cash travellers cheques. is located nearby.
 194 P E S HA W A R • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

Northwards is the heart of the old city, Peshawar Museum

Chowk Yadgar, now a redeveloped plaza dedi- Housed in a glorious Victorian Mughal-
cated to the heroes of the 1965 war with India. Gothic hall across the tracks from the Old
Moneychangers display their currencies along City, this museum (Map p195; Saddar Rd; admission
the west side. Running west from the plaza is Rs 100; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm Thu-Tue Apr-Sep;
Ander Shahar, the jewellers’ bazaar – a dim lane 9am-4pm Thu-Tue Oct-Mar) has the largest collection
lined with glittering gold shops where you’ll of Gandharan art in the world, ranging from
run the gauntlet of invitations. Here also is statues and friezes depicting the Buddha’s
Mahabat Khan Mosque, the city’s finest mosque, life to winged cupids and Herculean heroes.
built in 1630 by the governor of Peshawar It’s a dizzying stylebook of Graeco-Bactrian
under Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, and reno- art, if often let down by poor labelling (also
vated in 1898. You can enter the mosque and check out the Graeco-Bactrian coinage hidden
look around at the lavish tiled interior and also upstairs). There’s a small Islamic collection
get a good view of the plaza and minarets from with some delightful illustrated books, and
an ancient caravanserai to the east. Freelance an ethnographic section with wooden effigies
guides that hover around Ander Shahar are taken from a Kalasha cemetery, including an
good value for visiting the mosque and cara- ancestor figure riding a two-headed horse.
vanserai, though they’ll want you to visit their
shop afterwards. In the alleys southeast of Bala Hisar Fort
Chowk Yadgar are Mochi Lara, the leather bazaar, Looming large, the imposing Bala Hisar (Map
and Sabzi Mandi, the busy vegetable market. p195; GT Rd; admission Rs 100; h3-7pm Sat, 10am-7pm
East from Chowk Yadgar the road forks Sun) and its bleak ramparts still appear to
beneath the four-tiered Cunningham Clocktower, monitor movement along the Grand Trunk
built at the turn of the 20th century for Queen Rd. Babur first built a fort here in 1526 after
Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee. Bearing right at capturing Peshawar. It was a royal residence
the tower, the main road has many two- and for the Afghan Durrani dynasty before being
three-storey old houses with carved balconies, captured, trashed, and in 1834, rebuilt in mud
once the homes of rich merchants. Off to the by the Sikhs (replaced by brick by the British).
right is Meena Bazaar, a labyrinth of shops for It’s now the headquarters of the Frontier
women. Further up the street on the left is Corps. Access inside is limited, but there’s a
a collection of old Sikh havelis (traditional small museum and great views over the city
mansions), with carved wooden windows and from the ramparts.
screens. Half a kilometre up at the end of the
main road is a great gate into a run-down Islamia College
compound called Ghor Khatri. A caravanserai This prestigious college (off Map p191),
in Mughal times and the governor’s mansion founded in 1913, is well worth a look for its
under the Sikhs, it also contains a neglected grand Victorian façade and clocktower, which
Hindu temple. Archaeological excavations in features on the country’s Rs 1000 note. It faces
its gardens show the many strata of Peshawar’s Jamrud Rd and anyone can enter the gates
history, reaching nearly 15m below ground and stroll around the manicured gardens. The
level, to well before the Greeks and Kushans. green surroundings and contemplative atmos-
phere make it a real oasis. Any bus heading
west from Khyber Bazaar or the Cantonment
LOST IN THE OLD CITY will drop you here; a taxi from Saddar should
To get the best out of the old city, duck down cost around Rs 80.
side alleys and passages, away from the noise
and clatter of the rickshaws and crowds. This Ziarat Rahman Baba
is where you’ll find the city at its most tra- This tomb (Map p191; off Hazar Khwani Rd) in green
ditional, with gates to family compounds, surroundings on the southern outskirts of
tiny shops, and kids playing in unexpect- Peshawar is a shrine to the 17th-century poet
edly leafy squares. Don’t forget to look up Rahman Baba, one of the masters of Pashto
either at the array of Peshwari architecture, poetry. It is a quiet and contemplative place
from crumbling caravanserais to houses with and a popular centre for Peshawar’s Sufis,
intricately carved wooden balconies. who welcome respectful visitors. On Thursday
night there is Sufi devotional singing and
 0 500 m
PESHAWAR OLD CITY 0 0.3 miles

INFORMATION EATING
Home & Tribal Affairs Department Food Stalls...............................24 C3
(Civil Secretariat)....................1 A3 Habibi Restaurant....................25 C3
lonelyplanet.com

Ku
Khyber Medical Centre.............. 2 D4 Khan Klub..............................(see 18)

tch
Moneychangers..........................3 E3 20

ery
National Bank............................4 C4 SHOPPING

Rd
National Bank.............................5 E2 Carpet Shops.........................(see 23)
Police Station............................. 6 D3 Carpet Trunk(OldRd Kamran
GrandShops
Fidaus Hotel)..................................26 C3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Chowk
Khyber Rd To General Bus
All Saints Church....................... 7 D4 Stand (3km) TRANSPORT
Ander Shahar (Jewellers' Bazaar)..8 E3 Chitral Mayoon.......................27 D3
Bala Hisar Fort........................... 9 D2 SLEEPING Chitral Union.........................(see 17)
Cunningham Clocktower..........10 E3 Hotel Al-Haq.........................(see 21)
Ghor Khatri..............................11 F3 Hotel Spogmay........................17 C4
Mahabat Khan Mosque............12 E3 Khan Klub.................................18 F2
Meena Bazaar..........................13 E3 Park Inn Hotel..........................19 C3 9 18
5

Rd
Mochi Lara (Leather Bazaar).....14 E3 Pearl Continental Hotel............20 C1

ar
Rampur

dd
Peshawar Museum.................. 15 A4 Relax Inn.................................21 C4 Gate

Sa
Sabzi Mandi (Vegetable Rose Hotel...............................22 C3
Market)................................16 E3 Shan Hotel...............................23 C3

Sahibzada Abd
Po 12
l ic ra
e Pu
Rd
Rd rim
al 3 10 Ka

pit
24 8 Chowk

ul Qayyum Rd
Hos
Yadgar
14 16
23 Main
K hy Bazaar 13 Sikh
ber Haveli
19 26 Baza Kabuli 11
ar Gate
Kabuli
1 25
22 Gate 6 al Mandi
Shoba Qis 27 Pip
Chowk sa
Kha
ema Rd wa
ni
Cin
Fo 15
rt 21
Rd

Ba
jor
Rd

i R
d
ar
dd Old
Sa Rd City
ty 4 Rd
Ci 7 t ut
Rd h Yak
To Saddar
ut
ay So 17
Bazaar

ilw
Rd
(1km)

Ra
h
gari Rd urc
ab

Ch
D

2
P E S HA W A R • • Pe s h a w a r O l d C i t y 195

PROVINCE
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
 196 P E S HA W A R • • T o u r s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

DARK TOURISM?
The Smugglers’ Bazaar and Darra Adam Khel (p201) have long been part of the Peshawar tourist
experience, and feature on most local guides’ itineraries. After all, what other holiday destination
offers the chance to see blocks of opium and to fire a Kalashnikov? But while guns have long
been a part of Pashtun culture (drugs too, although to a much lesser extent), if you’re planning
a visit it’s worth spending a moment considering where the backhanders your guide pays to
the dealers are going.
There’s plenty of cannabis on offer in the bazaar, but the big money comes from opiates. The
heroin sold in Peshawar comes from Afghanistan, part of the trade that threatens the Afghan
state through institutional narco-corruption as well as funding the Taliban insurgency. The trade
provides 90% of Europe’s heroin, although the Smugglers’ Bazaar mainly serves Pakistan’s rapidly
growing population of heroin addicts. When we visited, one shopkeeper showed us bags of heroin
while ignoring the addicts squalidly smoking the drug on the carpets behind him. As we left we
pictured Pakistani tourists paying dealers to show them around the crack houses of London or
New York and wondered how different that would be.
The drug-funded insurgency is also bringing boom times for the gun shops. One dealer was
thrilled that the price of AK47s was going through the roof due in large part, he told us, by
radicals wanting to ‘do jihad’ in Afghanistan and Waziristan. Tourism doesn’t come much darker
than in Pakistan’s Tribal Areas.

music after evening prayers and into the referrals from travellers. Typical itineraries
night, a low-key but intimate version of the include Old City tours, the Smugglers’ Bazaar,
Sufi music of Lahore (p104). painting workshops for the brightly decorated
trucks and buses, and the Khyber Pass.
Smugglers’ Bazaar Unofficial guides often approach tourists
On the fringes of Peshawar as you head to- and offer trips to the Tribal Areas and even
wards the Khyber Pass is the Smugglers’ Bazaar cross-border trips into eastern Afghanistan
(Map p191), otherwise known as Karkhanai (including Tora Bora, the scene of a pitched
Bazaar. It thrives openly on the sale of goods battle in 2001 between the US army and Al-
imported through Pakistan for Afghanistan, Qaeda). Given the current security situation
then smuggled back through the Tribal Areas in that part of the country, such propositions
to avoid paying duty. Everything is available are foolish in the extreme.
here, from cut-price electronics to clothes and
stationery. It’s an enormous trade that costs SLEEPING
Pakistan millions of dollars annually in lost Budget
revenue – enough money to generate the bribes There are two main areas of interest to travel-
that allow the market to flourish. lers: Saddar Bazaar, convenient for shops and
Foreigners are banned from entering the far offices, and Khyber Bazaar, noisier but close to
end of the bazaar where guns and drugs are the fascinating Old City. Always check a cou-
openly on sale – a barrier prevents accidental ple of rooms, as this bracket has a lot of small,
entry (see the boxed text, above). An official gloomy and often grotty boxes on offer.
crackdown on the trade saw this part of the Sindbad Hotel (Map p192; %216961; Bajori Rd; s/
bazaar bulldozed in early 2007, but it was d Rs 120/220, with air-con Rs 120/220; a) A decent
quickly rebuilt – with the police officer lead- Saddar hotel that keeps you close to the ac-
ing the raid murdered a fortnight later. tion. Rooms are good for the price, although
It’s a 20-minute ride from Saddar on one of those at the back are lacking in natural light.
the colourful city buses; ask for ‘Karkhanai’. No restaurant, but you can send out for good
Don’t come here when it’s getting dark. room-service breakfasts. Hopefully they’ll
have replaced the missing hotel sign on the
TOURS front door by the time you’re there.
The PTDC office can advise on hiring official New Mehran Hotel (Map p192; %216961; Sunehri
guides. Several guides operate out of the Rose Masjid Rd; s/d/tr Rs 150/250/300) Firmly occupying the
Hotel (opposite) and get consistently good simple and male-orientated part of the budget
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels P E S HA W A R • • E a t i n g 197

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
spectrum, rooms here open onto a multilevel TV), and there’s a pleasant covered atrium

PROVINCE
courtyard that improves the airiness of the with easy chairs to relax in, as well as a good
place and keeps the street noise down. restaurant. Prices include breakfast.
Shan Hotel (Map p195; %216961; Sunehri Masjid Rd; Hotel Grand (Map p191; %5844357; University Rd;
s/d/tr Rs 150/250/300) Peshawar’s budget hotels s/d Rs 1200/1400) If you fancy neither the hustle
often offer you clean and gloomy, or grimy of Saddar nor the Old City, this hotel, closer
with lots of natural light. The small rooms at to the fancy shops (and a few restaurants) of
the Shan lean towards the former. University Rd, might be for you. The Grand’s
Hotel Al-Haq (Map p195; %2590949; Cinema Rd; s/d rooms are spacious and comfortable, with
Rs 150/250) Friendly management makes up for good fixtures and fittings.
the rooms in this hotel, on a noisy bazaar road
lined with car workshops. Rooms are fine but Top End
nothing special, which goes for most of the Pearl Continental Hotel (Map p195; %5276361; www
cluster of cheapies also along this road. .pchotels.com; Khyber Rd; s/d Rs 21,000/23,000; ais)
Relax Inn (Map p195; %2220241; Cinema Rd; s/d Peshawar’s big international hotel, flush with
Rs 150/250) The single rooms here are poky but businessmen on expense accounts. The rooms
the doubles are bearable. Rooms are pretty are comfortable and fully appointed at this
clean but check the bathrooms to be sure. level, while you’re further served by three
Hotel Spogmay (Map p195; % 2213255; Bajori restaurants, pool and a handful of shops.
Rd; s/d Rs 200/300, s/d with air-con Rs 550/800; a) A Discounts are worth asking for, but prices
lively budget choice, with a mixed bag of don’t include 23.6% tax.
rooms. See a few before checking in as some Khan Klub (Map p195; %2214802; khanklub@yahoo
rooms are very cramped while others have .com; New Rampur Gate; r Rs 30,000-50,000;a) A boutique
spluttering plumbing. hotel in the Old City, the Khan Klub is a lovely
Tourists Inn Motel (Map p192; %5279156; Saddar Rd; converted 18th-century haveli on four levels and
dm/d Rs 150/300) Once a backpackers’ institution, is something of a hidden jewel. Each of the eight
but listless management means this open-plan rooms is individually decorated to a high speci-
hotel has left its glory days far behind. Over- fication in traditional style with carved wood,
priced and grubby dorm beds are cramped carpets and embroideries, and themed towards
uncomfortably together, but seem spotless in a different precious stone (the Turquoise Room
comparison with the shared bathrooms and etc). Attentive staff can organise tours and the
kitchen. Very depressing. like. The ground-floor restaurant is well worth
Rose Hotel (Map p195; %250755; Shoba Chowk, Khyber a visit even if you’re not a guest.
Bazaar; d with/without TV from Rs 400/300; a) Deservedly
popular Old City option, this corner hotel has EATING
rooms in a variety of shapes and sizes, some Hong Kong Restaurant (Map p192; The Mall; mains
with air-con. Staff are helpful and can arrange Rs 80-445; hlunch & dinner) Peshawar’s first Chinese
guides and the restaurant has reasonable food. restaurant, Hong Kong has been serving up
Rooms on the side and back are cooler, as the noodles for several decades now. The menu
front of the hotel bakes in the sun. is a blockbuster read in itself, and the dishes
come quick and hot. The soups are good, while
Midrange the plates of chow mein are mountainous.
Park Inn Hotel (Map p195; %2560049; Shoba Chowk, Habibi Restaurant (Map p195; %2212223; Khyber
Khyber Bazaar; s/d Rs 700/1000; a) The exterior Bazaar; mains Rs 80-400; hlunch & dinner) A cut above
and lobby of this hotel are slightly glitzier most places you’ll find in the Old City, the
than the rooms here, but they’re still not bad rooftop restaurant at Habibi’s is made for
for the price. They are certainly spacious summer-evening dining. The menu is meat-
enough, though – many have their own heavy, with the smells of the barbecue wafting
lobby/sitting room, while bathrooms come through the air to work up your appetite.
with bathtubs. Shiraz Restaurant (Map p192; Saddar Rd; mains
Green’s Hotel (Map p192; %5270182; greensh@uni Rs 85-320; hlunch & dinner) There’s something of
com.net.pk; Saddar Rd; s/d Rs from 1150/1610; a) An a canteen atmosphere to this place, but you
old Peshawar favourite, Green’s is a reliably can fill up on a host of Pakistani dishes and its
comfortable place to lay your head. Rooms are specialty – barbecued chicken. Always busy,
clean and modern (with fridge and satellite with a quick turnover of tasty food. It’s an
 198 P E S HA W A R • • S h o p p i n g lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

offshoot of the fancier restaurant of the same SHOPPING

name in University Town. The Old City is almost tailor-made for
Lala’s Grill (Map p192; %270182; Saddar Rd; mains souvenir-hunting. Simply wandering its
Rs 90-300; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Part of Green’s streets turns up all manner of trinkets, toys
Hotel, this is a welcome place to eat if you’re and handicrafts. There are traditional bazaars
craving clean cutlery and tablecloths. The where skilled artisans and even more skilled
menu sticks to standards along the Pakistani- salesmen congregate according to merchan-
Chinese-Continental axis, and the waiters dise. Many of the traders are Afghan and offer
agreeably tell you what the chef has just rugs, embroideries and lapis lazuli from that
been cooking if you want to eat quickly, country. Most shops and stalls in the Old
or what needs to be prepared from scratch City open from around 9am and start pull-
(usually the Continental dishes) if you’re ing the shutters as the sun sets. They close
in no rush. Friday afternoon and all day Sunday. If you’re
Shiraz Restaurant (Map p191; %5702019; University shopping seriously, good-natured haggling is
Rd; mains Rs 145-530; hnoon-3pm & 7.30-11.30pm) A essential, preceded by small talk over tea.
very upmarket option if you want Afghan and There’s a concentration of carpet and rug
Pakistani fare under icy-cold air-con, with merchants selling Afghani and Balochi carpets
linen napkins starched to within an inch of above the Shan Hotel (p197) and in the old
their lives. If you’re going to treat yourself, do Kamran Hotel complex (Map p195) opposite.
it here with the whole leg of lamb roasted until Pricier carpet shops on Saddar Rd will accept
the meat falls from the bone (Rs 480). credit cards and can help arrange shipping.
Khan Klub (Map p195; %2214802; New Rampur Gate; Copper and brass shops are concentrated
set dinner Rs 500; hdinner) This place is a real where Qissa Khawani turns the corner to-
dining treat – it’s traditionally decorated wards Chowk Yadgar (Map p195). Nearby, in
and has frequent live music. There’s really the Mochi Lara (Leather Bazaar) you can buy
only one menu, a multi-dish Afghan feast Pashtun chappals (slip-on sandals), a cheap
where the food keeps on arriving until you’re leather bag or a bandolier.
slumped contentedly on the cushions strewn Ander Shahar, running west from Chowk
on the floor for exactly that purpose. The Yadgar, is the Jeweller’s Bazaar. Down this lane,
kebabs and rice are obvious inclusions, but on the left past Mahabat Khan Mosque, are
the borani (vegetables with yoghurt sauce), several alleys full of Afghan-run shops where
boloni (stuffed savoury pancakes) and mantu you can search for bargains and antiques.
(steamed ravioli) are unexpected delights.
Finish up with saffron rice pudding and GETTING THERE & AWAY
green tea. Air
PIA (Map p192; %9212371; The Mall, Arbab Rd, Saddar;
Quick Eats h8am-8pm) has flights daily to the cities of
The best places for a quick kebab-style meal Islamabad (Rs 5950), Lahore (Rs 6950) and
are in Khyber Bazaar, where the smoking bra- Karachi (Rs 7920). There are weekly flights to
ziers are a dead giveaway. A local Pashtun Multan (Rs 6950).
favourite is chapli kebab, a mutton-burger There are one or two morning flights a day
served with bread, tomatoes and onions. to Chitral (Rs 3750), but departures are highly
Wash the fat down with a glass of green tea. weather sensitive. Planes must fly through the
The streets leading south and east from mountains to clear the Lowari Pass so demand
the Rose Hotel have several good (unsigned) perfect visibility. It’s a short but truly spectacu-
Afghan cafés serving rice and kebabs, plus lar flight, in a 50-seater Fokker Friendship, and
piping-hot Central Asian–style naan, al- is highly recommended. The service is usually
though in the Old City you’re never too far fine in summer but cancellations are frequent
from good, filling street food. in winter. Go to the Northern Areas ticketing office
Silver Star Cafe (Map p192; Saddar Rd; h11am-9pm) (%9212371; h9am-1pm, 2-5pm) in the PIA building
A great hole-in-the-wall eatery with samosas in the morning. Your name will be added to the
(Rs 2), fried chicken (Rs 45), potato slices passenger manifest, with tickets issued (and
(Rs 4) and a few sweet options for dessert. paid for) the afternoon before departure.
Ideal for eating and running, with a few places Peshawar has good international connec-
opposite offering more of the same. tions, via the Gulf States. PIA and Air Blue fly
lonelyplanet.com P E S HA W A R • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 199

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
three times a week to Dubai, with twice-weekly (Rs 680, seven hours, two daily), and Mingora

PROVINCE
Aero Asia and Shaheen Air International con- (Rs 240, four hours, four daily).
nections. Budget airline Air Arabia flies twice a The chaotic general bus stand on the north
week to Sharjah, while Gulf Air, Emirates and side of GT Rd has colourful, uncomforta-
Qatar Airways are good for connections. ble, slow old buses to Rawalpindi (Rs 65),
as well as minibuses and Coasters heading
AIRLINE OFFICES in all directions. Leaving when full, plenti-
Aero Asia (Map p192; %5277289; Javaid Plaza, ful minibuses head for Rawalpindi (Rs 140,
Saddar Rd) 2½ hours), Mardan (Rs 40, one hour) and
Air Arabia (Map p192; %5250090; Dean’s Trade Centre, Mingora (Rs 75), Timargarha (Rs 130, four
Islamia Rd, Saddar) hours), Dir (Rs 180, six hours) and Chitral
Air Blue (Map p192; %5261602; Dean’s Trade Centre, (Rs 400, 12 hours).
Islamia Rd, Saddar) Chitral options from the Old City include
Emirates (Map p192; %5260777; Islamia Rd) Chitral Union (Map p195; %2210503; Spogmay Hotel,
Gulf Air (Map p192; %5213171; Arbab Rd) Bajorie Rd), which has an 8pm departure for
Qatar Airways (Map p192; %5275240; Saddar Rd) Rs 400. Chitral Mayoon (Map p195; %2215545; Sultan
Shaheen Air International (Map p192; %5278456; Hotel, Qissa Khawani) buses depart at 6.30pm and
Cantonment Plaza) 8.30pm for the same fare. This is an exhaust-
ing 12- to 14-hour trip that could be broken
Bus at Timargarha or Dir (the latter has better
Air-con buses have their own orderly stand, sleeping options – see p218).
opposite the general bus stand, on the south- Minibuses to Darra Adam Khel (Rs 25),
ern side of GT Rd about 2km east of the Old Kohat (Rs 35), Bannu and Dera Ismail Khan
City. Several bus companies here launch go from Sadabaha bus stand (Map p191), awk-
comfortable coaches to Lahore (Rs 310), wardly located south of the Old City.
Karachi (from Rs 750), Quetta (Rs 650) and
Dera Ismail Khan (Rs 160). Note that the Train
Quetta bus travels via Waziristan in the Tribal The train to Rawalpindi is as cheap as a mini-
Areas so foreigners may be forbidden from bus, and one way of avoiding the hair-raising
catching this. GT Rd. There are several trains departing each
Daewoo (%2651591; GT Rd) runs the most day, the most convenient are detailed in the
comfortable easterly services from its effi- Major Trains from Peshawar table, below. To
cient terminal, opposite the general bus stand: get a foreign student/tourist concession, take
Rawalpindi (Rs 200, 2½ hours, 12 daily), your passport to the Commercial Department
Lahore (Rs 570, 6½ hours, 13 daily), Multan at Cantonment train station.

MAJOR TRAINS FROM PESHAWAR

Destination Train Departure Duration Fare
Karachi Khyber Mail 10.15pm 32hr Rs 590/1040/2790 for A/B/E
Awam Express 9am 32½hr Rs 590/1370 for A/C
Lahore Khyber Mail 10.15pm 9½hr Rs 170/340/950 for A/B/E
Quetta Express 7.30am 9hr Rs 170/340/950 for A/B/E
Awam Express 9am 9½hr Rs 170/360 for A/C
Multan Khyber Mail 10.15pm 17hr Rs 290/550/1530 for A/B/E
Quetta Express 7.30am 15hr Rs 290/550/1530 for A/B/E
Quetta Quetta Express 9am 32hr Rs 540/960/2590 for A/B/E
Rawalpindi Abaseen Rail Car 6.25am 3½hr Rs 70 for A
Quetta Express 7.30am 2hr Rs 70/130/430 for A/B/E
Awam Express 9am 3½hr Rs 70/160 for A/C

Abbreviations:
A = Economy (seat) C = Air-conditioned lower (seat) E = Air-conditioned parlour
B = Economy (berth) D = Air-conditioned lower (berth)
 200 A R O U N D P E S HA W A R • • T h e K h y b e r Pa s s lonelyplanet.com
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PROVINCE

GETTING AROUND announcing ‘Foreigners not permitted beyond

To/From the Airport this point’ when you enter the Tribal Areas,
Peshawar airport (Map p191; %5270035) is 1.5km the fortress-like Afridi homes, Buddhist ruins
southwest of Saddar Bazaar. A taxi will and old forts all combine to make you feel like
charge about Rs 100 from Khyber Bazaar. you’re playing a role in a Kipling novel.
Expect to pay around two-thirds of that Near Peshawar you’re in the government-
by autorickshaw. administered lands of the Khalid tribe. About
18km west of Peshawar is Jamrud Fort, built by
Bus the Sikhs in 1823 to mark the western edge
Peshawar’s main arteries for local buses are of their empire (one of the few to expand
the GT Rd, Khyber Bazaar, Sunehri Masjid westward to the Khyber). Its trademark stone
Rd, Khadim Shaheed Rd and Jamrud Rd. arch (built in the 1960s) over the road marks
This links the bus stands, Old City, mu- the formal entrance to the pass. By now you’re
seum, train station, Saddar, University Town in Khyber Agency (one of seven agencies that
and Hayatabad; a bus or minibus along the make up the Tribal Areas), populated here
whole thing is Rs 10. Transport becomes mainly by the Afridi tribe. Pakistani law gives
infrequent after dark. way to tribal law not far from the main road,
which is the reason why there’s an armed
Taxi & Autorickshaw guard from the Khyber Rifles regiment shar-
Autorickshaws are plentiful in Peshawar, ing your vehicle. The villages here are like
and appear to contribute to half its pollu- clusters of forts – the largest compound (you
tion. Short hops are Rs 20; the fare between can’t miss it) belongs to the family of the
Saddar and Khyber Bazaar shouldn’t top notorious drug-smuggler Ayub Afridi.
Rs 30. Yellow taxis cost roughly double this. Little stone sentry boxes mark the hilltops;
they are deserted now, but were once manned
by the Frontier Force of the Pakistan army.
AROUND PESHAWAR About 6km from Jamrud, as the road climbs
in a series of switchbacks, there are excellent
This region takes in Peshawar Valley, the Khyber views back east over the road and the Khyber
and south to Dera Ismail Khan (DI Khan). railway as it winds its way through numerous
tunnels. Massive, fortress-like Pashtun houses
THE KHYBER PASS with high adobe walls pepper the hills, and
It’s less the view but the idea of the place scattered concrete ‘dragon’s teeth’ (tank ob-
that attracts most people to the Khyber stacles on the valley floor), are a reminder of
Pass. For centuries it has divided and linked WWII British fears of a German tank invasion
empires and peoples, marking a watershed of India. About 13km from Jamrud, Shahgai
between Central Asia and the subcontinent. Fort (another British legacy) was built in the
Darius the Great, Babur, Buddhist travellers, 1920s and is now occupied by the Frontier
Scythian warriors and soldiers of the British Force and closed to the public.
empire have all been drawn through the Near the narrowest point of the pass, 15km
pass. Other passes to Afghanistan may carry from Jamrud, is Ali Masjid (Ali Mosque). Above
more importance but none more romance. the mosque, Ali Masjid Fort commands a view
The Khyber isn’t at the border but weaves over this strategic sector of the pass. A small
through the Suleiman Ranges for many kilo- cemetery here contains the graves of British
metres. It’s a long, winding and barren pas- soldiers who fell in the second Anglo-Afghan
sage – at the end you look through the haze war. Before the pass was widened to 3m, it’s
at the border town of Torkham and over the said to have been too narrow for two fully-laden
Durand Line to Afghanistan, which at this camels to pass each other. The valley walls bear
point looks more or less like Pakistan. It’s not insignias of regiments that have served here.
so much arriving at the Michni checkpoint Ten kilometres on, in a broad valley by
(the end of the line for those not proceeding the village of Zarai, is the ruined Sphola stupa.
to Afghanistan) that is exciting, but the entire On a promontory overlooking the road, it
trip starting at Peshawar. The anticipation as dates from Kushan times, an incongruous
you collect your permit and armed escort, and oddly poignant reminder of the region’s
the nervous excitement as you pass the sign Gandharan past. The villages in this area were
lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D P E S HA W A R • • T h e K h y b e r Pa s s 201

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
AROUND PESHAWAR 0
0
20 km
12 miles

To Mingora (Swat; 85km);

Chitral (275km)
MOHMAND AGENCY
AFGHANISTAN

Takht-i-Bahi
Takht-i-Bahi Bazaar

Shabqadar Mardan
Kabul
To Rive
Kabul r
(140km) Charsadda
Torkham
Landi Kotal
Michni
Checkpoint
Khyber Pass
Kh

Zarai
ybe

Smugglers' See Peshawar Map (p191)

r Rail

Bazaar
Nowshera
Ali Masjid
way

Peshawar
Shahgai Fort Grand Trunk Rd
Jamrud
Fort To Islamabad
KHYBER AGENCY (112km)
Hayatabad PESHAWAR DIVISION
Kachagari
Refugee
Camp

Darra Adam Khel

Kohat
Frontier
Region

ORAKZAI AGENCY
Kohat Pass

Gauge
row Rai
Nar lwa
y

Kohat
KOHAT DIVISION

To Thal (60km);
Parachinar (150km) To Bannu (105km); To Rawalpindi
Dera Ismail Khan (130km)
(245km)

badly damaged in flash floods in June 2007 here you can see (depending on the level of
that also washed away several bridges. haze) the Durand Line, marked by large num-
A further 7km on is Landi Kotal, at 1200m. bers, as it snakes across the ridge marking
With the growth of the Smugglers’ Bazaar near the border, and the border-crossing town of
Peshawar, Landi Kotal has lost some of its sta- Torkham, 58km from Peshawar. While you’re
tus as ‘contraband city’, but the labyrinthine admiring the view, no doubt you will be as-
bazaar, to the left and downstairs of the road, sailed by young boys selling Afghani bank-
still houses several gun shops – surrounded by notes – a great souvenir (even if the exchange
shops selling more mundane vegetables, toys rate is outrageous).
or plastic buckets. Your armed escort, if he’s
worth his eventual tip, should let you wander Getting There & Away
around and have a cup of chai (tea). This is Foreigners aren’t allowed to take public trans-
also the home of the Khyber Rifles Officers’ port through the Khyber, so hiring a taxi is the
Mess, with a small museum chronicling the best option. As you’re travelling through the
Rifles’ history and its many famous visitors. Tribal Areas, you’ll need a permit from the
The last point for foreigners without an Home & Tribal Affairs Deptartment (Map p195; Civil
Afghanistan visa is Michni checkpoint. From Secretariat, 2nd fl, Saddar Rd, h9am-2pm, Mon-Sat) in
 202 A R O U N D P E S HA W A R • • D a r r a A d a m K h e l lonelyplanet.com
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PROVINCE

THE KHYBER RAILWAY

The Khyber Railway is one of those astounding yet understated marvels of engineering that
was a specialty of the British empire. A railway was first planned here in the aftermath of the
Second Anglo-Afghan War in the 1880s, but work didn’t start until 40 years later, with the first
train steaming up its tracks in 1925. The statistics are boggling – there are 34 tunnels and 92
bridges and cuttings. Even with multiple switchbacks, the gradient is so steep that two engines
are needed to push and pull the train to its destination: the W-shaped Changai Spur has four
reversing stations, and rises 120m after each change of direction.
The track initially extended to Landi Kotal but was later extended to the border. In return for
letting the British build it through their territory, the Afridi Pashtuns travelled free – an added
incentive to stop them raiding the train.
Public services stopped in 1985, but Sehrai Travels (Map p192; %091-5272084; [email protected]
.pk; 14/C Cantonment Commercial Plaza, Saddar Rd, Peshawar) charters steam trains up to Landi Kotal as
the ‘Khyber Steam Safari’ on a more-or-less monthly schedule. Although not cheap at Rs 5985
per person, it’s one of the highlights of NWFP and a must for nostalgia and railway enthusiasts.
Two steam engines push-pull the little train up 600m in 30km, passing through tunnels, crossing
bridges and pausing at the reversing stations of the Changai Spur.
The train travels with armed khussadar (tribal guards) and still generates great excitement
among the locals. There are stops at Peshawar airport (to cross the runway) and at Shahgai Fort
for tea, before arriving at Landi Kotal about four hours later. Lunch at the Khyber Rifles Officers’
Mess is an added bonus. Flooding in the pass in June 2007 caused some damage to the railway,
but the train will hopefully be up and running again during the lifetime of this book.

Peshawar. You need your passport, one photo has thrived on its gun factories, turning out
and a photocopy of your passport’s ID page well-made replicas of everything from mus-
and Pakistan visa. There’s no fee, and the whole kets to Kalashnikovs.
process shouldn’t take more than 30 minutes. The simple adobe buildings hide miniature
Apply up to two days before travelling. Once factories, with smithies and lathes converting
you have the permit, take three photocopies to blocks of steel into pistols and automatic ri-
give up at the checkpoints through the pass. fles. The best smiths claim to be able to make
On the day of travel, take your permit with a working replica of a new gun in 10 days. The
your driver to the Khyber Political Agent’s Office rat-tat-tat of shoppers testing their purchases
(Map p192; Stadium Rd, h9am-2.30pm), where you’ll is commonplace. All men, of course – women
be issued with your armed escort. There’s no are nowhere to be seen – and you’re more
fee here either, but your escort will expect a likely to see a child carrying a box of bullets
tip of around Rs 200 at the end. than a schoolbook.
Any Peshawar guide can organise the half- Darra is officially out of bounds to foreign-
day trip. The PTDC office (p193) charges ers and the Home & Tribal Affairs office was
Rs 1800 (for up to four people), although you refusing to issue permits. However, Darra
still have to sort your own permits. If you ar- is on the main road to Kohat and for years
range everything yourself, you’ll haggle hard backpackers have made a game of jumping on
to find a return taxi for Rs 1500. a Kohat-bound bus and hopping off at Darra.
If you’re carrying on into Afghanistan, The khussadar (tribal guards) in Darra have
you’ll also need a photocopy of your Afghan instructions to send foreigners back on the
visa when getting your permit (which next bus. They are protecting you from the
should be for the border at Torkham rather obvious dangers of touring this lawless, drug-
than Michni). and gun-saturated region, where kidnapping
is a real risk and DVDs of jihadi beheadings
DARRA ADAM KHEL are sold openly in the bazaars. In reality, what
An otherwise unremarkable Pashtun village in happens is that you pay out several hundred
the Kohat Frontier Region of the Tribal Areas, rupees as a ‘fine’ and get to inspect the primi-
Darra Adam Khel (‘Darra’ for short) is famous tive workshops and (for a further payment)
for one thing: guns. For over a century, Darra fire off a few rounds, before being put on the
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A R O U N D P E S HA W A R • • K o h a t 203

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
next bus to Peshawar. In the current fractious of the Old City. Kohat’s general bus stand is

PROVINCE
climate on the frontier, however, we advise 5km south on the Bannu Rd. Coming from
against travelling under your own steam – al- Peshawar, many buses will drop you at Hangu
though guides in Peshawar use their contacts Chowk on the western fringe of town. Suzukis
to operate day tours to the town. For more on shuttle between here and the centre and the
the darker side of Peshawar’s tourist scene, see train station. Kohat is also linked by rail
the boxed text, p196. to Rawalpindi.
Avoid the temptation to buy anything,
especially the tiny pen guns. Outside tribal BANNU
lands there are stiff penalties for possession %0928 / pop 46,896
of unlicensed weapons. Like Kohat, Bannu is mainly an administrative
headquarters, army garrison and junction on
KOHAT the Peshawar to Quetta road. In the 1840s the
%0922 / pop 125,271 Sikhs, unable to conquer the feisty Bannuchis
This army town and divisional headquar- outright, periodically plundered the country-
ters south of Peshawar has a cantonment, a side. Sir Herbert Edwardes, then a 29-year-old
huge British-era fort (off limits), the mazar British ‘adviser’ to the Sikhs, so successfully
(shrine) of Sufi teacher Haji Bahadar Ali won the Bannuchis’ trust that he persuaded
Abdullah Shah (located east of Tehsil Gate), them to submit to the Sikhs, and later to join
and a noisy Pashtun bazaar. It’s terribly hot in defeating them. For some time the town
in summer and not especially interesting, was called Edwardesabad.
although men can cool off in a pool east of There are lots of guns in evidence, and
the fort. sometimes gunfire. The police will insist you
register with them if you stay the night – or
Sleeping & Eating just put you on the next bus out of town. They
There are only a few basic options, and it’s are located in the kucheri (law courts) area.
disputable whether they’ll accept foreigners in
the current climate. Green Hill Hotel (Thal Rd) has Sleeping & Eating
basic rooms and a restaurant. Hotel Nadria, In the Chai Bazaar, the rooms at the Hotel
south of the Green Hill on the edge of the ba- Sajjad are a step up from the spartan Farid
zaar, has similar rooms and air-con doubles. Hotel. At Lakki Gate there are more options:
There are also several cheap hotels facing the New Jan’s Hotel has a restaurant, and nearby
local bus yard. is the Three Star Hotel.

Getting There & Away Getting There & Away

By road, Kohat is about 1½ hours from Air-con coaches travel here to/from Peshawar
Peshawar, crossing the low, stony Kohat Pass (Rs 100, five to six hours). You can also head
that’s studded with ruined watchtowers and to Dera Ismail Khan (three hours) and Quetta
has a Frontier Constabulary post. Bannu is (18 hours). The route to Quetta, through
two to three hours further south and Dera Tribal Areas and requiring a permit, is
Ismail Khan is about six hours away. Buses not recommended.
(Rs 40) go from the Peshawar general bus
stand and from Sadabaha bus stand, south DERA ISMAIL KHAN (DI KHAN)
%0961
Commonly referred to as DI Khan, this small
WARNING market town is on the west bank of the Indus
Before travelling south from Peshawar, it’s es- River, just east of the peak called Takht-i-
sential to seek advice on the current political Suleiman (Throne of Solomon). This Pashtun
situation as the highway passes through the region is unsettled and is potentially dan-
restive Tribal Areas. Talk to Peshawar’s PTDC gerous for unaccompanied travellers. This
(p193) and read the Frontier Post newspa- is Pakistan’s only divisional headquarters
per for the latest situation. During research, without a train station.
police wouldn’t allow us to travel the road DI Khan is known throughout Pakistan for
south to Quetta via Dera Ismail Khan. its decorative brass inlay work, which can be
picked up fairly cheaply in the bazaar.
 204 A R O U N D P E S HA W A R • • M a r d a n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
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PROVINCE

MARDAN 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles

A B C D
To Takht-i-Bahi (15km);
Mingora (104km)

To Charsadda (32km);
1 Peshawar (68km)
12 11 To Shahbaz
Garhi (12km);
Swabi (39km)
13 14
Cantonment
3
Police La

Ka
lpa
5

ni
8

R
ive
ll
Katchery Ma

r
Chowk The
Stadium

ath
2

Footp
4 15 9
College 7
Chowk 6 10 Mosque 1

Bank Rd Pakistan Chowk

2

Ho
ti
Ba
Sh

za
INFORMATION am

ra
shi
Moneychangers.................................1 C2 Rd
National Bank of Pakistan...................2 B2
Net Café.............................................3 B1
To Nowshera (28km);
Police Station......................................4 B2 Grand Trunk Rd (28km)
Post Office.........................................5 B2
3 Telephone Exchange..........................6 B2 SLEEPING
Al-Idrees Hotel...................................9 B2 TRANSPORT
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Zaman Hotel....................................10 B2 Coasters to Peshawar.......................12 A1
Lutheran Church..............................(see 8) General Bus Stand............................13 A1
Mardan Museum...............................7 A2 EATING Minibus Stand..................................14 A1
Memorial Arch...................................8 C2 Cheap Restaurants............................11 A1 Tonga Stand.....................................15 B2

Sleeping & Eating MARDAN

There are several reasonable and inexpensive %0931
hotels on Circular Rd and in the bazaar, such In the heart of the Peshawar Valley, Mardan is
as Al-Habib, Bloom Star and Jan’s. Most pic- an old British military cantonment, famous as
turesque is the restful Midway Hotel by the the birthplace of the Guide Corps, an elite bor-
Indus River. Cheap snacks can be found in der regiment founded in the 1840s. It’s a fairly
the Topan Wala Bazaar. Otherwise, the hotel sleepy place these days (horse-drawn tongas
restaurants turn out acceptable Pakistani and are still popular taxis) with little to offer in
Chinese dishes. itself, but its location makes it a potential base
for exploring the wealth of Gandharan sites
Getting There & Away that litter the valley.
If you’re planning to come to DI Khan by
road from any direction, you should first Orientation & Information
check with the PTDC, the deputy commis- From the central Cantonment, the old town is
sioner’s office or the police in the nearest east across the Kalpani River. Long-distance
large town, as there is little government pres- transport is to the west and hotels, food and
ence in this area. Travel after dark is espe- other travellers’ needs are south, mainly in the
cially not advised. Mall and Bank Rd.
The road from DI Khan to Quetta (630km),
via Zhob (15 hours by bus), Qila Saifullah and Sights
Ziarat, is recommended. The road passes near In the centre of the new town is a memo-
the Waziristan Tribal Area, and permits are rial arch to Louis Cavagnari and his Guides,
required. Peshawar-bound buses leave from whose Kabul murder in 1879 helped spark
the bus station at the corner of Topan Wala the second Anglo-Afghan war. Near the arch
and East Circular Rds. PIA has a daily flight and a small park is a Lutheran church and school
to Peshawar. founded in 1937. The small Mardan Museum
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A R O U N D P E S HA W A R • • A r o u n d M a r d a n 205

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hour), Mingora (Rs 80, three hours) and

PROVINCE
(The Mall; admission free; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-
5.30pm Thu-Tue) has exhibits on Gandhara and Rawalpindi (Rs 90, three hours). Bigger buses
local ethnography. run to Peshawar and Rawalpindi for about
two-thirds of the price, while slightly more
Sleeping & Eating expensive Coasters go to Peshawar from a
Choices are limited; don’t come with too high stand west of the train line.
expectations. Tongas in Mardan cost around Rs 15. Day
Al-Idrees Hotel (%663339; Bank Rd; s/d Rs 150/250) hire for a taxi if you want to explore sites
Fairly decent rooms although a little on the further out is around Rs 2500 according to
gloomy side, with attached restaurant. your haggling skills.
Zaman Hotel (%663109; Bank Rd; s/d Rs 150/300)
The best accommodation option, with AROUND MARDAN
reasonably clean and airy rooms and an The Mardan Plain is rich in Buddhist and
attached restaurant. pre-Buddhist ruins, which, along with those
The general bus stand has plenty of even of Taxila and Lower Swat, provide a glimpse
drearier and cheaper options. You’ll also find of Gandhara’s prosperous and powerful old
lots of cheap restaurants and snack stalls in kingdoms. Many sites are simply unexcavated
the vicinity. mounds, while some are buried under later
development. Although all their treasures
Getting There & Around have gone to the museums, the best sites still
The general bus stand is the hub of all long- offer a feast for the imagination.
and short-distance transport. Minibuses go Most intact and impressive are the Buddhist
throughout the day to Takht-i-Bahi (Rs 10, monastery at Takht-i-Bahi; the Ashokan inscrip-
15 minutes), Shahbaz Garhi (Rs 10, 15 min- tions and stupa complexes of Shahbaz Garhi;
utes) and Charsadda (Rs 20, 30 minutes). and the monastery and stupas at Jamal Garhi –
Minibuses also go to Peshawar (R40s, one all within 15km of Mardan. The countryside

AROUND MARDAN 0
0
10 km
6 miles

A B C D

To Mingora (80km) 6
Babuzai
via Malakand Pass
Pirsai
1

Rustam
Jamal
Garhi

5
9

Takht-i-Bahi
Bazaar
2
7
Sahri Bahlol
(Monastery) Shahbaz
2 Garhi 8
Mardan Shewada
3 1

Yar Hussain
Swabi To Tarbela
Dam (10km)
To Nowshera;
To Charsadda (20km); Grand Trunk
Peshawar (55km) Road (10km)

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

But Sahri (Stupa).................................1 B2
Chanaka Dehri (Stupa).......................2 B2
Edicts of Ashoka.................................3 B2 Amber
Hund (Fort)........................................4 D3
3 Jamal Garhi (Monastery & Stupas).....5 A2
Kashmir Smats (Monastery & Cave)....6 B1 4 r
ive
Lukkay Gutte or Asota (Monoliths)....7 C2 sR
Mekha Sanda (Monastery, Stupa and du
In
Cave)..............................................8 B2 To Grand Trunk Road (5km);
Takht-i-Bahi.......................................9 A2 Attock (10km)
 206 A R O U N D P E S HA W A R • • A r o u n d M a r d a n lonelyplanet.com
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is rugged in places and very hot in summer so path leads steeply from here to the monastery
bring sturdy shoes, sun protection and water. entrance. There’s no shelter at Takht-i-Bahi
The sites are accessible by public bus (and and summer days are scorching, so an early
the occasional long walk) from Mardan. If you start is recommended.
want to use Peshawar as a base, then Takht-i-
Bahi, Shahbaz Garhi and Jamal Garhi can be Shahbaz Garhi
covered in a long day-trip by hired car or taxi. This village, 13km east of Mardan, and once
Takht-i-Bahi is accessible as a long day-trip by a major trade crossroads, is best known for
public bus from Peshawar. its rock-cut Edicts of Ashoka. These inscriptions
in the Gandharan script were left all over the
Takht-i-Bahi Mauryan empire from India to Afghanistan in
This Buddhist monastery (admission Rs 50) on a com- the 3rd century BC, following Ashoka’s con-
manding rocky hill 15km northwest of Mardan version to Buddhism, urging his people to live
is by far NWFP’s stand-out Gandharan site, lives of piety and moderation. The edicts are
and compares more than favourably with under a small shelter on a hill a few hundred
Taxila near Islamabad. It thrived between the metres south of the village centre.
1st and 7th centuries AD before being aban- Shahbaz Garhi is also associated with the
doned, finally giving up its secrets to British Buddha himself, in his previous incarnation
archaeologists from 1907 to 1913, who also of Prince Visvantara. For giving away his
reconstructed parts of the site. kingdom’s magic elephant to a rival ruler, he
You enter through a courtyard that at one was banished and became a hermit in the sur-
time held at least 35 stupas and 30 little chap- rounding hills. Embracing the ascetic life, he
els with Buddha statues. A few statues have even gave his own children away, eventually
been left in situ, the rest are in the Peshawar being recognised for his piety and welcomed
Museum (p194). The walls would have been back into society.
plastered, but now reveal the amazing dry The cave where he lived is on Mekha Sanda,
stone walling techniques that constructed the about 1km north of Shahbaz Garhi on the
complex. Up the stairs to the south is the base road to Rustam. Past the ruins of a stupa and
of a huge stupa (the monastery’s most impor- monastery (worth visiting in themselves), a
tant stupa) and more chapels; to the north is thorny track to the right climbs for half an
a cloister surrounded by monks’ cells and a hour to the summit, with good views of the
refectory, kitchen and water tank. Beyond the plains. Visvantara’s cave is on the far side of a
central courtyard is a double row of sunken rise just north of here, although you may have
chambers, possibly for meditation. to enlist local help to find it.
The helpful chowkidar (caretaker), who has The ruins of Chanaka Dehri (White Elephant)
been here for over 30 years, speaks English well stupa and monastery are in a field a 1km-
and will happily guide you around for a gener- walk from Mekha Sanda out on a dirt track,
ous tip (around Rs 100), as well as sell copies of beneath some power lines.
a useful pamphlet (Rs 40) on the site. A minibus to Shahbaz Garhi from Mardan
Uphill from the monastery are the ruins takes 20 minutes and costs Rs 10.
of a sizable village. The views across the
plain, southwest to Peshawar and north into Jamal Garhi
Swat, are wonderful in the morning or late- The ruins of a monastery and a beautiful
afternoon light. courtyard of stupas are on a hilltop over-
Two or 3km from Takht-i-Bahi Bazaar, looking this village, 15km north of Mardan.
back towards Mardan, is Sahri Bahlol village, The view, including that of Takht-i-Bahi and
built on the ruins of another monastery. All Shahbaz Garhi, is especially grand at sunrise
that’s left are a few walls and water channels, or sunset.
five minutes’ walk off the road. To get here, catch a Katlang-bound bus
from Mardan and get off early; the summit is
GETTING THERE & AWAY a 45-minute walk from the village.
Minibuses run from Mardan to Takht-i-Bahi
Bazaar (Rs 10, 15 minutes). From a sign read- Kashmir Smats
ing ‘Archaeological Ruins’, drive, walk or This is a holy site to Hindus and Buddhists
catch a tonga east for 3km to a parking bay. A (its name means Kashmir Cave), though its
lonelyplanet.com S W AT D I S T R I C T 207

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
monastery, ritual bath and stupas have been isn’t much to see now. Best known is the

PROVINCE
decimated by treasure-hunters. The hike here 20m-high mound of Bala Hisar, said to be
takes a long day and is only for the fit and the citadel besieged by Alexander the Great
very adventurous. It’s also advisable to take in 327 BC, and the centre of the ancient
a guide. city. In the 2nd century BC the Bactrians
Take a bus north from Mardan past Jamal built their own city in a Greek-style grid at
Garhi to Katlang, and a pick-up on to Babuzai Shaikhan Dheri (Mound of the Sheikhs),
village. From Babuzai a rocky eastward road 1km to the northeast, also just a weedy
becomes a path that enters a narrow valley after hill now. Other ruins have all been built
1½ hours’ walking. A further steep 1½ hours’ over.
walking with fine views brings you to a concrete To get to the ruins from Charsadda town,
building; the complex is about half an hour on, go west across a tributary of the Swat River;
at about 2100m high. To reach the cave, head on the far side of the bridge, turn right up a
away from the monastery to the other side of track for about 1km to Bala Hisar. Shaikhan
the pass and double back – steps lead into the Dehri is just visible across the river.
cave (mind the bats). Legend says there’s a tun- Mardan-bound buses from Peshawar
nel from here all the way to Kashmir. (and most traffic to/from Swat) pass through
Charsadda.
Lukkay Gutte (Asota)
Off the road to Swabi, 40km east of Mardan,
is a collection of stone monoliths, possibly
an Aryan religious site from the 6th century
SWAT DISTRICT
BC. Of 30 original stone slabs, 21 remain in In a region full of dramatic scenery, Swat
various states of verticality. From Mardan stands out as a particularly beautiful corner
take a Swabi-bound bus to Shewada, and of northern Pakistan. A broad fertile valley
from there a Suzuki or tonga to Asota village. just touched by the monsoon, it stretches
The site is opposite a mosque, 200m past the nearly 200km from the Malakand Pass to the
Asota turn-off. high reaches of Swat Kohistan. A magnet for
hippies in the 1970s (‘the Switzerland of the
Hund East’), it’s often overlooked by today’s travel-
This is where Alexander the Great, Xuan lers, although not by domestic tourists who
Zang, Genghis Khan and Tamerlane most flock here every summer for the clean air and
probably crossed the Indus en route to fine landscapes.
India. It was the Hindu Shahi capital of Rich farmland fans out along the wide
Gandhara in the 9th and 10th centuries, and Swat River basin, centred on the twin towns
a Mughal stronghold against the Pashtuns. of Mingora and Saidu Sharif that together
The emperor Akbar ordered the construc- form Swat’s urban hub. It’s hardly the first
tion of the town’s impressive walls that still big town in Swat, as the valley was the site
mark out what is an otherwise anonymous of many previous civilisations, including the
village. Part of the ancient road remains, and Kushan kingdom of Gandhara and the Hindu
the river setting is as pretty as anywhere in Shahis, each of whom left behind a multitude
the area.
Take a bus from Mardan to Swabi and a
bus or minibus on to Amber. From there SWAT VALLEY: WARNING
Hund is a 4km walk or Suzuki ride. In November 2007, serious fighting broke
out in Swat between Islamist followers of
Charsadda the radical cleric Maulana Fazlullah and
Midway between Peshawar and Mardan on the Pakistan army. Over 20,000 troops
the road to Swat are the ruins of Pushkalavati were mobilised, and at least 200 militants
(Lotus City). It was capital of Gandhara killed. Although the valley was reportedly
from the Achaemenids to the Kushans, until cleared of violence as we went to press,
it was abandoned in favour of Peshawar in violent aftershocks are liable to continue
the 2nd century AD. for the foreseeable future, putting Swat out
The site has yielded a rich trove of pottery, of bounds to travellers.
jewellery and Greek-influenced art but there
 Swat District
208 S W AT D I S T R I C T • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com
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PROVINCE

DIR & SWAT DISTRICTS 0

0
20 km
12 miles

To Chitral
Town (20km) Falaksair
Lake (5918m)
Mahodand Sumi
Drosh

Ushu Valley
Kumra

River
Chitral Matiltan Gabrial
District

y
Ushu

lle
t Valley
u

Va
h

r
Us

ive
tR
rot
Thal
Kalam

ro
Karang

Ut

Ut
Ziarat
Utrot
Gabral Richa
Lowari Pishmal
Pass Badwai
(3118m) Pass

Mankial
Sheringal (5726m)
Dir R

Kulalai
r
Rive
iver

Dir Kohistan

Chowa Da
District

er
ra
ko

Riv
j
P an

Dubair
at
Sw
Bahrain
Bar

r a Va l l
Dubair
Madya
Madyan n Valle

Va l l e y
y
Panjk
Pan

ey
Dir
District Swat
District
jkor
ora V

KKH
a River
alley

Dubair
Fatehpur Miandam Jijal

Khwazakhela
Alpurai Besham

Shangla Karora
Timargarha Nimogram Pass (2134m)
Ghaligai
Buddha Yakhtangai
Andan Jehanabad
Dehri Shankardara Pir Sar
Uch Stupa (2160m)
Manglaur Thakot
Katkala Malam Jabba Chakesar River
Mingora
Chungai
us

Saidu Sharif
KKH
Ind

Chakdara Barikot
Marghazar
Malakand Fort
Landakai Udegram
To Dargai Fort (8km); Karakar
Mardan (45km) Malakand Pass Pass

of historical sites to be discovered. North of mostly fine and hot with some rain in July
here, the mountains start to close in past and August.
Madyan, squeezing the river into a leaping
torrent, and forcing villages down to the banks HISTORY
or up the valley walls. The deodar-forested, Alexander the Great crossed the Swat River
snowcapped northern peaks are dominated with part of his army and, before turning
by 5918m Falaksair. The Pashtuns of the valley south, subdued the locals at what are now
floor become replaced by Kohistanis (liter- Barikot and Udegram. His successors ceded
ally ‘people of the mountains’) and nomadic Swat to the Mauryan dynasty. Under them
Gujars who tend flocks on the high pastures. and the later Kushan empire, Buddhism
It’s a popular area for hiking, and its streams thrived here and it was probably the birthplace
are thickly stocked with trout. of Vajrayana (Tantric Buddhism), which in the
Swat is accessible year-round, although it 7th century took root directly in Ladakh and
is snowbound from Bahrain northwards be- Tibet. Even as Buddhism was declining in the
tween the months of November and March rest of Gandhara it remained Swat’s prevailing
(even then transportation is occasionally pos- religion until the 15th century despite Hindu,
sible and some hotels are open). Summer is and then Muslim, arrivals.
lonelyplanet.com S W AT D I S T R I C T • • M i n g o r a & S a i d u S h a r i f 209

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By the 16th century the Yusufzai Pashtuns, for the Malakand Division that also covers

PROVINCE
driven before the advancing Mughal army of Dir and Chitral.
Babur, were the valley’s dominant tribe. With This area is the base from which to see
them came missionaries, forcefully converting Lower Swat’s wealth of Buddhist and other
Kohistanis to Islam. historical sites (there’s a good museum
Swat remained stiffly independent and too), and to change buses for Upper Swat.
chafed against British control from the 19th Mingora’s noise, traffic and frenetic atmos-
century. Hostilities erupted into open war in phere may come as a shock if you’ve arrived
1897 with the Malakand Uprising, in which from the north.
a young Winston Churchill served as both
soldier and cub reporter. In 1926 Swat was Orientation
granted independent status under a Wali Mingora sits on the south bank of the Swat
(ruler), and kept Pakistan at partial arm’s River, straddling the main highway up the val-
length following Partition. The Wali’s sov- ley. The general bus stand is on the GT Rd west
ereignty was finally abolished in 1969 when of Sohrab Chowk, the main centre for accom-
Swat formally became part of NWFP. modation. The airport is about 8km northwest
of the bazaar. The main bazaar runs along GT
MINGORA & SAIDU SHARIF Rd and is permanently choked with traffic,
%0936 fumes and noise – shopping is more fun in the
In recent decades the two towns of Mingora narrow side lanes. The most interesting of these
and Saidu Sharif have merged into one an- are between New Rd and Bank Sq.
other to form a sprawling unit. Mingora is Saidu Sharif is south of Mingora, up the
the older market town with a heaving bazaar, cul-de-sac Marghazar Valley beside the Saidu
long-distance transport and most of the ho- River. The towns meet across the tributary
tels. Saidu Sharif is the traditional seat of Swat Jambil Khwar, though Saidu’s centre is 3km
power and the administrative headquarters south at the old royal compound.

MINGORA BAZAAR 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles

To Airport To Upper
A (8km) B Swat C D
12

People
Chowk
Ne

1
wR

14 Rd
n
d

ya
ad
M
w INFORMATION
Ne Cinema
Friends Internet Club..........................1 B3
n Rd

Habib Bank......................................(see 4)
Green Internet Club......................................2 B2
Madya

Chowk
Main Post Office................................3 B2
Taj National Bank.....................................4 B2
3 Chowk UBL Bank.........................................(see 4)
New Rd

5
SLEEPING
8 Green Tower Hotel.............................5 B2
4
2 Hotel al-Hamra...................................6 B3
Bank Hotel D Papa......................................7 B3
2 Square
Hotel Rainbow....................................8 B2
17 Bazaar Main Swat Continental Hotel.......................9 B3
Bazaar Swat View Hotel...............................10 B3

EATING
To Peshawar Punjabi Saltish Restaurant.................11 B3
10 Nishat
(160km) Swat Garden Restaurant..................(see 9)
Chowk
Vegetable Market.............................12 B1
Sohrab 6 Gra
15
Chowk nd 7 Rd
Ha

T r u nk 13 SHOPPING
ji B

16
1 11 Suvastu Gallery.................................13 B3
ab

18
a

r
Saidu Sharif Rd

Rd

3 K hwa TRANSPORT
il
Jamb City Bus Stand...................................14 B1
Daewoo Bus Station.........................15 A3
r
wa

General Bus Stand............................16 A3

Kh

PIA ...................................................17 B2
To Saidu 9 Suzuki Yard (to Saidu Sharif).............18 B3
idu

Sharif (2km)
Sa
 210 S W AT D I S T R I C T • • M i n g o r a & S a i d u S h a r i f lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

Information SAIDU SHARIF 0

0
500 m
0.3 miles
INTERNET ACCESS
Friends Internet Club (Map p209; GT Rd, Mingora; per A B
hr Rs 25; h24hr) INFORMATION
Internet Club (Map p209; New Rd, Mingora; per hr Rs 25) Central Hospital...........................1 A3
Commissioner (Swat, Dir &
1 Chitral)....................................2 A4
MEDICAL SERVICES Conservator of Forests.................3 A3
Deputy Commissioner (Swat).......4 A3
Central Hospital (Map p210) In Saidu Sharif. Foreigners' Registration Office...(see 8)
Pak Telecom Telephone
See Mingora Bazaar Exchange.................................5 A4
MONEY Map (p209) Pakistan Tourism Development
Corporation (PTDC) Office..(see 14)
The following banks will all do foreign Police Station...............................6 A4
exchange: Post Office...................................7 A4
Superintendent of Police..............8 A3
Habib Bank (Map p209; Bank Sq, Mingora)
National Bank (Map p209; Bank Sq, Mingora) SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Mingora Butkara No 1................................9 B3
UBL Bank (Map p209; Bank Sq, Mingora) 2 Butkara No 3..............................10 B3
Saidu Baba (Shrine to the Arkhund of
Swat).....................................11 A4
POST Saidu Stupa................................12 A3
Main Post Office (Map p209; Mingora; h9am-4pm Swat Museum............................13 A3

Mon-Sat) Has poste restante.

Ja
Post Office (Map p210; Marghazar Rd, Saidu Sharif;

mb
8 9
3
h9am-4pm Mon-Sat)

il
To Dir 4
(65km);

Khw
Peshawar Playing 13
(162km) Field

ar
u Sharif Rd

TELEPHONE
There are numerous public call offices (PCOs) 3 Khwar

in both towns, where you can make local,

Said

interstate and international calls. 1

12 10
u
Said

TOURIST INFORMATION To Panr (1km);

Loebanr (3km);
PTDC office (Map p210; %711205; Saidu Sharif; 16
Upper Jambil
Valley (3km)
h9am-1pm & 2-4.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-1pm Fri) 15
Inside the PTDC Motel. Staff give reliable advice on visiting 14
SLEEPING
archaeological sites in Swat and can book PTDC motels in PTDC Motel...............................14 A4
Swat Serena Hotel.....................15 A4
Malam Jabba, Miandam, Mankial and Kalam. 4
Rd

5 EATING
r
za

Suvastu Restaurant..................(see 15)

a

Sights
gh

2 7
Aq
ar
M

ba

Several important excavation sites of Buddhist 6 11 TRANSPORT

Rd

To Marghazar (8km); PIA Booking Office....................16 A4

ruins are in Saidu Sharif. Of these, Butkara Mt Ilam
No 1, Butkara No 3 and Saidu Stupa are easy
to reach on foot. BUTKARA NO 1
Also called Butkara, or the local name of
SWAT MUSEUM Gulkada (gool-ka-da), this site has yielded one
Partly funded by the Japanese, this excel- of Swat’s richest harvests of artefacts, all now
lent museum (Map p210; Saidu Sharif Rd; admission in museums. The enormous central stupa was
Rs 50; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm summer, 9am-1pm probably begun by Ashoka in the 3rd century
& 2-4pm Thu-Tue winter), located in Saidu Sharif, BC; by the 10th century it had been rebuilt
should be on anyone’s itinerary if they have five times, each new version enclosing the last.
an interest in Buddhist Swat. Gandharan- Around it were over 200 little stupas built by
style statuettes and friezes depict the lives of wealthy pilgrims. On the north side was a mon-
the Buddha along with seals, tiny reliquar- astery and to the north and west a village for
ies and other treasures, mostly from Butkara pilgrims. Note the metre-tall stone lions.
No 1 and Udegram. In other rooms there To get here, find the first road just north
are pre-Buddhist artefacts, and you’ll also of the Swat Museum, off Saidu Sharif Rd, and
find an ethnographic gallery with traditional walk east along it for 900m. Then walk 250m
carved Swati furniture, jewellery and some north on a footpath across fields to a bound-
wonderful embroideries. ary fence in a grove of trees.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S W AT D I S T R I C T • • M i n g o r a & S a i d u S h a r i f 211

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
BUTKARA NO 3 have the place bursting to capacity in sum-

PROVINCE
Further along the Jambil Valley is a partly mer. There are a couple of VIP, four-bedroom
reconstructed courtyard of enclosed stupas. suites with air-con for Rs 1000.
To get here, continue 500m past the turn-off Swat View Hotel (Map p209; %700889; Shah Rawan
to Butkara No 1 until you reach a culvert. Plaza, New Rd; s/d Rs 400/500; a) You get a mixed
Then climb five minutes up a gully to the bag at this hotel. Rooms are generously sized
right. It can be difficult to find, but there’s a and of fair quality, but although the staff
village on the way and someone from there are friendly they could do with putting the
can probably show you. broom about a bit more than they currently
do. Rooms at the back are the quietest, those
OTHER JAMBIL VALLEY SITES with air-con are overpriced at Rs 900.
At Panr (pronounced ‘pahn’) on the other Green Tower Hotel (Map p209; %762725; New Rd;
(east) side of Jambil Khwar are a stupa and s/d Rs 400/500) Fronted in green glass and sat on
monastery from the 1st to 5th centuries AD. a busy road, but with rooms far enough back
You’ll find a path and bridge about 1.5km from the traffic to cut down on noise. Rooms
beyond Butkara No 3, or you can head 3km are generously sized, with fairly new fixtures
out along Haji Baba Rd from Mingora Bazaar. and fittings.
Further out at Loebanr, on the west side, are an Hotel Al-Hamra (Map p209; %710966; GT Rd; s/d
Aryan graveyard from the 2nd to 1st millennia Rs 400/700) For the price, this hotel’s reach is
BC and a 3rd-to-4th-century-AD stupa. slightly beyond its grasp, but rooms are nev-
ertheless comfy and clean. The side street lo-
SAIDU STUPA (KANCHAI KANDA) cation cuts down on noise while still keeping
The remains of this impressive stupa and you near the heart of the action.
monastery are just up a track from the paved
road behind Central Hospital. MIDRANGE
PTDC Motel (Map p210; %727775; fax 724774; Aqba
SAIDU BABA Rd; s/d Rs 900/1500, s/d with air-con Rs 1500/2000; a)
This is the honorific nickname of the colour- Modern, spacious and comfortable, although
ful shrine to the Akhund of Swat, behind the destined to be unfavourably compared to the
Saidu Sharif police station and near the old Swat Serena almost opposite. In fact, it’s one
Wali’s residence. of the PTDC’s better outfits, with the added
bonus of a pleasant garden. The PTDC office
Sleeping is located here.
Many of the cheap hotels in Mingora Bazaar Swat Continental Hotel (Map p209; Saidu Sharif Rd;
are reluctant to take foreigners; you’ll find %711399; [email protected]; s/d Rs 1300/1600;
the places listed here are more welcoming. a) A good midrange option, with well-
Midrange hotels are often heavily booked in appointed and decent-sized rooms. The de-
the summer. cent hotel restaurant makes this a comfortable
option for the money.
BUDGET
In addition to hotels here, there is a host of TOP END
cheapies lurking around the main bus stand Swat Serena Hotel (Map p210; %711637; swat@serena
for those with tight budgets and relaxed .com.pk; Saidu Sharif Rd; s/d from Rs 5500/6300; ais)
attitudes to grubbiness. It should be no surprise that this is Swat’s
Hotel Rainbow (Map p209; %720573; New Rd; s/d plushest hotel, with immaculate modern
Rs 100/200) The simplest of the hotels that accept rooms decorated with a hint of Swati tradition.
foreigners; in fact, you get a very warm recep- The gardens and neatly tended lawns are fine
tion here. Rooms are simple, but good enough for relaxing, and there’s a nightly barbecue by
for the price (you get a toilet, but cold showers the pool and the swish Suvastu Restaurant
are shared). Down a quiet alley. (p212) for dining. Prices exclude tax.
Hotel D Papa (Map p209; %725362; GT Rd; s/d
Rs 300/450; a) There are big doubles here, well Eating
matched to the price. There’s also a slightly Punjabi Saltish Restaurant (Map p209; Said Sharif Rd;
musty atmosphere, although it doesn’t seem mains Rs 60-210) A clean, popular and inexpensive
to bother the staff or the guests, who usually restaurant just off the GT Rd. It serves the
 212 S W AT D I S T R I C T • • M i n g o r a & S a i d u S h a r i f lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

usual Pakistani fare and occasional Western

fast-food items in bright surroundings. HOW LONG FROM SWAT TO THE
Swat Garden Restaurant (Map p209; Saidu Sharif Rd; KARAKORAM HIGHWAY?
mains Rs 150-450) On the ground floor of the Swat Following are approximate travel times by
Continental Hotel. Come here to eat well in minibus or jeep.
nice surroundings without breaking the bank. Route Distance Time
The Pakistani dishes are the best, as some of
the Continental dishes get interpreted with Mingora–Khwazakhela 28km 45min
eccentric flexibility. Khwazakhela–Shangla
Suvastu Restaurant (Map p210; %711637; Saidu Pass 20km 45min
Shangla Pass–Alpurai 11km 30min
Sharif Rd; mains Rs 220-480; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)
Alpurai–Besham 34km 1½hr
This excellent restaurant is the place for a
splurge. Sharply dressed waiters lay out
meals on crisp linen, offering a wide selec- p210; Faizabad Rd; %711092) plans to restart serv-
tion of Chinese, Continental and Pakistani ices to Islamabad and Peshawar.
dishes. Suvastu’s evening poolside barbecue
buffet (Rs 500) makes an excellent alfresco BUS
alternative. Long-distance transport goes from the gen-
For quick eats, there are dozens of Pashtun eral bus stand on GT Rd. There are regular
eateries along GT Rd, particularly near the minibuses to Peshawar (Pekhora in Swati
bus station and around Nishat Chowk. Fill Pashto; Rs 110) and Mardan (Rs 70). Large
up on chicken, kebabs, curries and dhal for buses depart all day for Rawalpindi (Rs 140).
a few rupees, washed down with juice from a Daewoo operates from its own station near
nearby drinks stand. Seasonal fruit vendors the main bus stand, with several daily services
are everywhere, especially trying to out-shout to Peshawar (Rs 240, four hours) via Mardan,
one another at Green Chowk. and daily to Rawalpindi (Rs 360, seven hours)
and Lahore (Rs 750, 10 hours).
Shopping Minibuses go upvalley all day to Miandam
Suvastu Gallery (Map p209; GT Rd, Mingora Bazaar) This (Rs 25, 1¼ hours), Madyan (Rs 40, 90 min-
large emporium has a good range of handi- utes), Bahrain (Rs 50, two hours) and Kalam
crafts, carpets and jewellery. This isn’t really a (Rs 60, 2½ hours).
place for bargains, however, much of the stock Minibuses also go all day to Besham (Rs 80,
is of high quality. Cheaper shopping options 3½ hours), via Khwazakhela and the Shangla
exist near the corners of GT Rd and New Rd. Pass. Change in Besham for Gilgit, Mansehra,
the Kaghan Valley and Abbottabad. For Dir
Getting There & Away and Chitral, you’ll probably have to take a
AIR minibus to Timargarha (Rs 25) and change.
At the time of research there were no flights
to/from Saidu Sharif airport, although PIA (Map CAR
Hiring a car is a good idea if you want to roam
SHOPPING IN SWAT the valley in search of archaeological sites.
Midrange hotels usually have their own drivers,
Handicraft specialities include exquisite while taxis from the general bus stand should
carved hardwood furniture and architec- cost around Rs 2500 per day, plus fuel.
tural pieces such as pillars and doorways.
Large emporiums dot the roadside as you Getting Around
make your way up the valley. Also available AUTORICKSHAW & SUZUKI
in bazaars are embroidered shawls, rugs The ubiquitous autorickshaws charge around
and precious stones. Locals say Mingora Rs 20 from Mingora’s Sohrab Chowk to
Bazaar has the best deals in embroidery Saidu Sharif’s Swat Serena Hotel. Passenger
and rugs, while carvings and jewellery Suzukis ply the Saidu Sharif Rd (Rs 15), en-
are cheaper in Khwazakhela, Madyan and tering Mingora only as far as a yard near the
Bahrain. Fake old coins and stone carvings GT Rd. A Suzuki and pick-up yard at Sohrab
are common. Chowk serves the suburbs on this side of the
Swat River.
lonelyplanet.com S W AT D I S T R I C T • • A r o u n d M i n g o r a & S a i d u S h a r i f 213

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
RUINS & RELICS AROUND MINGORA
You could easily spend a week exploring Swat’s more obscure historical sites. Around 20 Buddhist
sites have been excavated, with others lost to treasure-hunters or the farmers’ plough, or yet to
be surveyed. Most can be reached from Mingora by public transport. For more information, ask
at the PTDC (p210) or the Swat Museum (p210).

Udegram
Around 6km southwest of Mingora, Udegram hosts the remains of the Buddhist town of Ora
(subdued by Alexander the Great), the mountainside citadel of the last Shahi raja, and a mosque
from the time of Mahmud of Ghazni.
Ora’s excavations are unremarkable in themselves, but climb from here for 30 minutes to the
ruins of the 11th-century Ghaznavid mosque, with its hall, washing pool and mihrab. A further
20 minutes brings you to the remarkable ruins of Raja Gira’s massive castle. The path leads up
a grand entry staircase to passages and battlements, where you can let your imagination go.
Scattered up the hill are more buildings. The valley view is regal, too.
On the way back down, in a grove surrounded by a vast graveyard, is a shrine to Pir Khushal
Baba, Mahmud of Ghazni’s general who died wresting the fort from Raja Gira.
Local Suzukis for Udegram leave from Sohrab Chowk in Mingora Bazaar.

Ghaligai Buddha
Seven kilometres southwest of Udegram is a meditating Buddha carved on a rock right by the
road. Once obviously very beautiful, it has been irreparably vandalised. Beside it is a stairway to
a shallow cave where other reliefs have been defaced beyond recognition.

Barikot
A straightforward minibus ride from Mingora, Barikot has several sights. A steep one-hour climb
from the village is Shahi Fort (visible from the road north of the village) with fantastic 360-degree
views over the local farmland. The stone walls on top are new; the strong, tight Shahi walls are
just below the summit on the north side.
Also within sight of the main road, 2km northeast of Barikot, is Shankardara (or Shingerdar)
Stupa, a huge and partially-restored 2nd-century stupa with shrubs growing from it like a toupee.
Just south of Barikot are the Italian excavations of what was once the fortified town of Bazira,
conquered by Alexander the Great in 327 BC.

Nimogram
This is a quite enchanting but hard-to-access site for which you really need your own vehicle.
Three large and numerous small stupas and an unexcavated monastery stand on a remote, windy
ridge west of the Swat River with tremendous views. From Barikot head northwest to Chungai
village, from where a jeep track winds for about 15km into the hills. The final steep stretch must
be done on foot. The stupas are excellently preserved and have tremendous views.

Jehanabad Buddha
A serene 4m sitting Buddha was carved in the 7th century on a rockface north of Mingora, on
the road to Malam Jabba. Take a Malam Jabba–bound pick-up from Mingora. Four kilometres
past Manglaur, a few hundred metres before the turning to Jehanabad village, is a footbridge
and a clear path up the other side of the valley, a 20-minute climb into the wooded hills. The
outcrop with the Buddha is visible from the road.

AROUND MINGORA & SAIDU SHARIF deluxe Rs 4500), with chairlift, and beginners and
Malam Jabba advanced slopes. At over 3000m, the views are
At the head of this valley, 45km northeast of spectacular up the Swat Valley and across to the
Mingora, is a ski resort and PTDC Motel (%0936- Karakorams. The PTDC in Saidu Sharif (p210)
755588; s/d chalet Rs 1350/1800, standard Rs 2000/2500, can advise on skiing in season (including
 214 S W AT D I S T R I C T • • K h w a z a k h e l a & S h a n g l a Pa s s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

equipment hire), while minibuses go directly In the town’s bazaar you might find the
to Malam Jabba (ma-lam ja-ba) from the gen- luminous shawls embroidered in village work-
eral bus stand in Mingora. shops up the Madyan Khwar (Madyan Valley)
to the east.
Marghazar Valley & Mt Ilam
At Marghazar, a half-hour drive south of Saidu ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
Sharif, is a luxury hotel that was once the Wali’s The bazaar and bus yard are downstream
summer residence. From here a footpath climbs (but uphill) from the Swat River bridge. A
beside the Saidu Khwar through villages and police station is behind the bus yard. Spectrum
farmland to the top of Mt Ilam, said to be sa- Computer Club (Main Bazaar, Rs 20 per hr) has a dodgy
cred to ancient Greeks, Buddhists, Hindus and internet connection, while for souvenir shop-
even early Muslims. It’s at least a four-hour ping try the handicraft shops near Hotel Zarin
climb, and the PTDC advise going in a group Palace – there are several cheap eats also on
or with a local guide. Pick-ups go to Marghazar this stretch.
from near Nishat Chowk in Mingora.
ACTIVITIES
KHWAZAKHELA & SHANGLA PASS If you’re in the mood, climb to Kalagai village
The jeep track to the Shangla Pass through and the ridges on the east side of the valley.
the market town of Khwazakhela was once a A track begins near the Swat Holiday Hotel.
major transport route, until the construction There are great views one to two hours up.
of the Karakoram Highway diverted traffic A longer, flatter walk is up the south side
elsewhere. Today the town is a hub just for of Madyan Khwar, past the fish hatchery to
local transport. the roadhead at Shankur (1½ hours). From
The 2134m Shangla Pass has great views here cross the river on one of the two bridges
west to Lower Swat and east to the Pir Panjal and carry on until the valley splits; the left
Range bordering Kashmir. It’s about 3½ trail goes up to Vershigram, 2½ hours from
hours’ drive between Mingora and Besham, Madyan – here you’ll find fine views of Mt
and the pass is open year-round, except dur- Piazo Bandeh (the ‘Uninhabited Onion’). The
ing occasional heavy snows. Foreigners will route is clear, but take a guide if you plan
have to sign in at several police checkpoints, to go any further – it’s quite likely some of
so keep your passports accessible. the town youths will approach you out of
Although the road is poor, it’s incredibly curiosity anyway.
picturesque as it hugs the bottom of a narrow Just upstream from where Madyan Khwar
valley from Alpurai to Besham. Every turn joins the Swat River is a popular place to take
seems to present a new and ruggedly beautiful the air, with kids playing in the river and fami-
environment, with the river endlessly diverted lies walking in the early evening.
to irrigation channels and wooden mills in
between narrow green fields. SLEEPING & EATING
Madyan Guesthouse (%781866; murad@madyanguest
UPPER SWAT house.com; dm Rs 80; i) This simple budget op-
Madyan tion has a couple of cushion-littered dorms
%0946 facing onto a courtyard. It’s fairly basic (par-
Ascending the Swat Valley, the mountains ticularly the bathroom) but the friendly man-
slowly begin to close in until the town of agement makes up for this, with decent food
Madyan is forced to climb their slopes. on request.
Madyan is the point where the Pashtun Valley Caravan’s Guesthouse (%780090; caravansguest
gives way to Swat Kohistan, and it could hardly [email protected]; s/d Rs 200/400) Caravan’s has
be a nicer transition point. The surroundings three immaculately clean, nicely decorated
are wonderful – green wooded slopes, cool rooms with shared hot shower, a relaxing sit-
mountain breezes and the sound of the icy ting area, a book exchange and good food, all
tumbling river. It’s easy to see why Swat has of which conspire to make you want to stay
been a perennial tourist favourite. There’s lit- longer than you planned. The guesthouse is
tle to do but drink in the scenery and maybe poorly signed – ask at Fida’s shop in the ba-
rouse yourself to hike up above the town for zaar (well signed) from where the co-owner
the tremendous views. will direct you.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S W AT D I S T R I C T • • U p p e r S w a t 215

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
tained bungalows, complete with lounge and

PROVINCE
MADYAN 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
balconies over the river. Old-fashioned but
To Bahrain
A (8km); Kalam B not entirely without its charms.
(43km)
To Kalagai
Swat Holiday Hotel (%780165; s/d Rs 500/600) This
8
bright, modern hotel has a great location over-
1
looking the river, with each floor opening out
onto a wide terrace to catch the views and the
9 breeze. Rooms aren’t elaborate but decent
10 6
and well sized.
12 Kabul Afghan Restaurant (mains Rs 60) Near the
v er Zarin Palace, this place is typical of the non-
Ri
5
at hotel restaurants, offering tikka, kebabs and
Sw
Mad
ya
pilau in simple surroundings.
n Khw
ar
2
2 GETTING THERE & AWAY
1 To Chail;
Minibuses fill up and leave for Mingora
14 Shankur;
3 Vershigram
throughout the day (Rs 40, 90 minutes) from
11 the bus yard and main bazaar. In the op-
4
posite direction, pick-ups (Rs 10) and cars
7
13 Bazaar
(Rs 20) depart continuously to Bahrain, and
less frequently to Kalam (Rs 50).
INFORMATION
PCO...................................................1 B2
Post Office.........................................2 B2
Bahrain
3 Spectrum Computer Club...................3 B2 %0946
SLEEPING
A short drive from Madyan, the road squeezes
To Khwazakhela Caravan's Guesthouse........................4 B2 up to Bahrain as the valley walls become ever
(25km); Mingora Foreign Hotel.....................................5 A2
(55km)
Hotel Zarin Palace..............................6 B1
narrower and steeper. Bahrain is a village
Madyan Guesthouse...........................7 B3 that has burst into a tourist town, with hotels
Madyan Hotel....................................8 A1
Swat Holiday Hotel.............................9 B1
squeezed along the river and then stacked up
the hillside. There are plenty of handicraft
EATING
Kabul Afghan Restaurant..................10 B1 shops selling Swati woodwork.
SHOPPING
4 Fida's Shop.......................................11 B2 SLEEPING & EATING
Handicraft Shops...............................12 B1 As with everywhere in the Swat Valley, prices
TRANSPORT are seasonal. The high season is June through
Bus Yard, Pick-ups to Khwazakhela..13 A3 to August, with prices tumbling at other times
Transport to Mingora & Kalam.........14 B2
(although many hotels close for winter).
There’s little in the way of budget accom-
Hotel Zarin Palace (%780319; s/d Rs 350/500) The modation. The hotels below have restaurants,
large Zarin Palace has clean, pleasant doubles but in the main bazaar there are plenty of
at the quieter end of the bazaar. It’s one of places serving Pakistani standards and fresh
several similarly appointed and priced hotels local trout.
within a minutes’ walk. Rock Valley Hotel (%781115; s/d Rs 500/700) The
Foreign Hotel (% 780712; caravansguesthouse1 first hotel on the road from Madyan, this very
@yahoo.com; s/d Rs 500/800) A new hotel with a breezy hotel has lovely fresh rooms. Some
distinct red-tiled front, and the name sug- rooms have balconies, all the better to enjoy
gests that it gives foreigners what they want – views across the fields to the river.
apparently a surfeit of elaborately swagged Hotel Swiss Palace (%781503; s/d Rs 600/800) One
curtains and faux gilded ceilings. Get past of a cluster of identikit hotels at the top end
this and the rooms are fair value for the price, of the bazaar in a row along the river. Large,
clean and modern. decent and slightly bland rooms come with a
Madyan Hotel (%780031; s/d Rs 500/600, ste reasonable restaurant. For similar fare try the
Rs 1000/1200) An older hotel with a touch of the Hotels Marina, Swat Valley or Dimsum; on
British hill station about it. Standard rooms the opposite side of the street are the slightly
are fair, while the suites are almost self-con- cheaper Parbat and Deodar Hotels.
 216 S W AT D I S T R I C T • • U p p e r S w a t Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

KB5 Motel (%780078; r Rs 600-900) The friendly (even the PTDC is closed) and food is limited
KB5 is on the main road at the southern end to the cheap restaurants in the bazaar.
of town, and decorated with a surfeit of wood
panelling. The rooms are small but verging ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
on plush. Some top-end hotels and most government
Deluxe Hotel (%780115; r Rs 1200) Overlooking offices are up on the western bluff, to which
the frothing junction of the Swat and Darel there are link roads from north and south
Rivers, so the sound of the water here is al- and a shorter footpath from 200m south of
ternately soothing and deafening. Rooms are the footbridge. Also topside are the police,
clean and pleasant, with discounts for rooms where you can get information on the local
on the road side of the hotel. The restaurant security situation, and the fisheries office,
is a good choice. where you can get a fishing licence. The bluff
also has good views up the Ushu Valley to
GETTING THERE & AWAY Falaksair (5918m).
Bahrain is 8km from Madyan. Pick-ups The PTDC office (%830014; PTDC Motel) can
(Rs 10) continually run between the bazaars. organise jeep hire and trekking guides.
Pick-ups and minibuses heading to/from
Kalam (34km) cost Rs 40. ACTIVITIES
Walks
Bahrain to Kalam Kalam has little intrinsic interest in itself, but
Half an hour north of Bahrain the great gap the area across the footbridge is worth explor-
in the eastern valley wall is Mankial Khwar, with ing. The grand mosque here has great wooden
a trail crossing to the Kandia Valley in Indus beams and pillars carved with scrollwork and
Kohistan. The trek is through fairly lawless quasi-Gandharan motifs – typical of hundreds
country, so a guide is essential. At Kulalai is a that were once everywhere in Swat but are now
riverside forestry resthouse. being replaced with modern concrete affairs.
After Kulalai the road gradually disinte- A half-day walk leads south from town,
grates (often impassable in winter). Twenty past the top-end hotels and then right (west)
minutes’ drive on, in the village of Pishmal, is up a jeep track into dense forest. The road
a mosque with a beautiful wooden minaret. curves to the right and continues up to a ridge
The snowy peak occasionally visible to the known as Hill Top, giving views of Mankial’s
east is the 5726m Mankial. peak. From the ridge, descend northwards to
cross the Desan Khwar next to a fine wooden
Kalam mosque and then meander northeast through
%0936 the pretty village of Jalban until you reach the
Kalam was an independent kingdom before PTDC Motel (a total of three hours).
it fell under the sway of Chitral in the 19th Another good walk follows a jeep track
century. It was given to Swat at Partition and 1km east of the bazaar up to Buyun Village
now sells itself as the ‘Switzerland of Pakistan’ (Green Top), atop the bluff on the opposite
to domestic tourists. At 2070m with stunning side of the Swat River (three hours). From
mountain scenery it’s certainly a competitor. here you could continue another hour up to
Tourism dominates the village and unfet- the meadows at Jag Banal.
tered development has crept away from the Check with the police or the PTDC
Swat River and onto the slopes. But its not too as to whether it is safe to do these walks
hard to escape the concrete and head into the unescorted.
wild and beautiful landscape that is Kalam’s
real draw. Bear in mind that Swat Kohistan is SLEEPING & EATING
a traditionally conservative and feudal place, Although hotels pack the main bazaar, capac-
and there are occasional hostilities towards ity is often tight in July and August, when
both foreigners and the hordes of Punjabi you’ll be lucky to find a room for less than
tourists that come here. The PTDC advises Rs 800. Prices outside these months can tum-
taking a guide if you want to go hiking, and ble by up to 50%, while between October and
can help organise this. June most places shut up shop altogether.
Outside summer, Kalam shuts down. Kalam’s hotels are uniformly midrange in
There’s then only a handful of hotels open style, service and rooms, most offering valley
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels D I R D I S T R I C T & T H E L O W A R I PA S S • • C h a k d a r a 217

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
views and all aimed squarely at Pakistani holi- we visited. There are forestry resthouses in

PROVINCE
daymakers, so you just pick one you like the Matiltan, Ushu, Utrot and Gabral; all can be
look of (and that has space). The Thames booked through the conservator of forests
Hotel, Pameer Hotel and Khyber Hotel are in Saidu Sharif with help from the PTDC in
fairly representative at around Rs 1200 for Kalam and Saidu Sharif.
a room, all at the south end of the bazaar.
The nearby Peshawar Hotel is a decent
cheaper option.
PTDC Motel (%830014; s/d standard Rs 1900/2300, huts
DIR DISTRICT & THE
Rs 3200/3650) Set in large grounds, with a main
block and some nice huts. A few overlanders
LOWARI PASS
have reported being able to camp here, making Wedged between the districts of Swat and
it a rare budget choice – if you have a tent. southern Chitral is Dir, little more than the
Hotel restaurants serve identikit watershed of the Panjkora River (a tributary
meals, with Pakistani, Chinese and a few of the Swat River). Once an independent state,
Continental dishes. Cheap eats can be found it is now part of Malakand Division. For to-
in the bazaar. day’s travellers, as for the British in the 19th
century, Dir is mostly a place to get through
GETTING THERE & AWAY on the way to Chitral.
Minibuses go from the northern end of the Dir’s people have been mostly Yusufzai
bazaar to Bahrain (Rs 30), Madyan (Rs 40) Pashtuns since the 16th century. In 1895 the
and Mingora (Rs 70, 2½ hours). Jeep drivers British forced their way through Dir and over
set fares between them, sample fares include the Lowari Pass to relieve the siege of Chitral,
Hill Top (Rs 400), Green Top (Rs 700), Lake but otherwise left the region to its own devices
Mahodand (Rs 1500) and Gabral (Rs 1200). until Partition. Dir and its nawab (prince)
remained largely autonomous until the 1960s,
Beyond Kalam when it was formally absorbed into Pakistan
Just north of Kalam the Utrot and Ushu Rivers as Dir district.
join to form the Swat River in a scenic region In 1950 a seasonal road was completed over
of steep forested mountains. The trekking the Lowari Pass into Chitral. A much-delayed
is said to be the best in Swat, but it’s unsafe tunnel through the pass is nearing completion
without a guide. Utrot Valley turns west and to offer year-round access to Chitral, almost
southwest. Near Utrot village, at 2220m and inevitably to Dir’s economic detriment.
16km from Kalam, Gabral Khwar enters from
the west. A road suitable for jeep runs to Utrot CHAKDARA
and 8km on to Gabral village. This is an old trading junction on the northern
Northeast up the friendlier Ushu Valley side of the Malakand Pass, where Alexander the
is Ushu village, 2290m high and 8km from Great forded the Swat River en route to India.
Kalam. The road is paved to Ushu and on Its strategic location has long been known – at
to Matiltan village. From here a jeep track nearby Damkot Hill archaeologists have found
leads to Lake Mahodand, about 25km from evidence of Gandharan Buddhist occupation
Kalam, with unobstructed views of Swat’s as well as a Hindu Shahi fort. Mughal emperor
highest peak, 5918m Falaksair. The road is Akbar garrisoned Chakdara in 1587 during
usually open from July to November. an unsuccessful attempt to subdue Swat. The
Check with the Kalam PTDC or police as attempt was repeated three centuries later
to the safety of trekking on the roads to Utrot by another great leader, the young Winston
and Ushu, and from Ushu to Lake Mahodand, Churchill. Nervous after the Chitral siege, in
and camping at the lake. If you go anywhere 1897 the British built the present bridge, fort
off the road you will probably require an and hilltop picket (named for Churchill). The
armed guide (possible to arrange through Pakistan army occupies the fort so Damkot
the Kalam PTDC). Hill is off limits to visitors.

SLEEPING Orientation & Information

Check with the PTDC in Kalam before leaving From Damkot Hill, Suzukis go to the village,
as there were no hotels open in Ushu when 1.5km up the road on the Dir side. From
 218 D I R D I S T R I C T & T H E L O W A R I PA S S • • Ti m a r g a r h a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

Chakdara village roads go to Timargarha and

up the west side of the Swat Valley. There’s no HOW LONG FROM SWAT TO
decent accommodation in Chakdara. CHITRAL?
Following are approximate travel times by
Sights minibus or pick-up.
CHAKDARA MUSEUM Route Time
The museum (admission Rs 100; h8.30am-12.30pm
Mingora–Chakdara 1hr
& 2.30-5pm summer, 9am-4pm Thu-Tue winter) is at
Mardan–Chakdara 1½hr
the village’s main intersection. Exhibits
Chakdara–Timargarha 1hr
include well-preserved Buddhist statuary, Timargarha–Dir Town 2hr
carved columns and lintels from an old Swat Dir Town–Drosh 4½hr
mosque, and an ethnographic section with Drosh–Chitral 1½hr
embroidery and lots of jewellery. Sadly, the
captions are rather dismal and it is a poor
relation to the excellent Swat Museum in DIR TOWN
Saidu Sharif (p210). %0944
Founded in the 17th century, this slightly
Getting There & Away wild town on the Dir River (tributary to the
You can reach Chakdara from Mingora on Panjkora) was the seat of the old nawab. The
Timargarha-bound minibuses (Rs 30, 30 min- former palace, occasionally occupied by royal
utes) or you can get off any bus to Mardan or offspring, sits high on a hill outside the town.
Peshawar at the bridge and catch a Suzuki The bazaar is fascinating and rough-edged –
to the bazaar. a local handicraft speciality is pocketknives.
Afghanistan is only 20km away in a straight
AROUND CHAKDARA line, or about 45km by road. Dir is a very
Katkala conservative town, and political and religious
A 15-minute drive from Chakdara, at the pass strife on the border or elsewhere in NWFP
from the Swat River basin into the Talash has frequently been reflected on its streets
Valley, are the remains of a Shahi fort (katkala in recent years, so check the local situation
in Pashto). On a local pick-up or Timargarha- before travelling. Although the local hills look
bound minibus, ask for Katkala or the nearest ripe for hiking, you shouldn’t head out on
village, Saraibala, and climb south from the your own.
road for about half an hour. Locally, the fort There’s a National Bank next to Hotel al-
itself is also called Marnai. Manzer and a few ad hoc moneychangers near
the bus station.
TIMARGARHA
Timargarha is the administrative headquarters Sleeping & Eating
of Dir district and its main transport hub – The bazaar area around the bus station has
travellers are most likely to come here to a host of unappealing and incredibly noisy
change vehicles between Swat, Peshawar and cheap hotels that are best avoided, although
Chitral. It’s a noisy, unimpressive place, with the attached restaurants can make good quick
the bus station on the main road leading south eating options for rice, curries, kebabs and
out of town in a roaring swirl of vehicles, dhal. Otherwise your hotel is likely to offer
hawkers, beggars and bazaars. A few rock- the best food, supplemented in summer by
bottom hotels huddle together south of the the ample fruits in the bazaar.
bus station, but there are better options on PIA Hotel (%880872; s/d Rs 200/300) One of the
offer in Dir Town. better bazaar options with basic small rooms,
squat toilet and cold shower. It’s slightly
Getting There & Away grungy, while having rooms face onto a
Minibuses leave all day for Dir Town (Rs 50, central courtyard simultaneously keeps the
2½ hours), Peshawar (Rs 130, four hours), bazaar noise down and serves as a car park.
Mardan (Rs 100, three hours) and Chitral Hotel al-Manzer (%880735; s/d Rs 250/300) At
(Rs 230, eight hours). There are less frequent the southern end of town, this friendly hotel
departures further afield to Rawalpindi is another decent budget option. Rooms on
and Lahore. different floors have different prices – those
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels D I R D I S T R I C T & T H E L O W A R I PA S S • • A r o u n d D i r 219

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
Dir Hotel (%880048; [email protected]; s/d ‘budget’

PROVINCE
DIR TOWN 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
wing Rs 300/500, ‘standard’ wing Rs 600/800, ‘VIP’ wing
A B Rs 1200/1500) This former guesthouse of the
Nawab of Dir has three annexes enclosing
INFORMATION a small garden, with something to suit most
Moneychanger...................................1 A5
1 National Bank.....................................2 B5 budgets. The cheaper rooms sit over the shops,
Police Station......................................3 B5 face the road and have cold showers, with the
SLEEPING standard rooms larger, quieter and with hot
Abshar Hotel......................................4 A2
Dir Hotel.............................................5 B5
water. The VIP suites see you accommodated
Hotel Al-Manzer.................................6 B5 in grand colonial style, with high-ceilinged
Hotel Green Hills................................7 A2
PIA Hotel...........................................8 A4
rooms with deep chairs, fireplaces and even
a dressing room. The garden is shared by a
TRANSPORT
General Bus Stand..............................9 B4 couple of stately Siberian cranes.
Pick-ups to Timargarha....................10 B5 Hotel Green Hills (%881234; s/d Rs 600/1000) A
2 welcome recent addition to Dir’s sleeping
To PTDC Motel Panakot (2km);
Lowari Pass (28km) options, Green Hills has fairly simple but
comfy rooms and bathrooms with gallons of
4
hot water. Rooms at the back have balconies
7
with lovely views over the Dir River. The ex-
cellent attached River Breeze Restaurant is
aptly named.
D
ir

PTDC Motel Panakot (%880900; s/d Rs 1000/1200)

Ri
ve
r

This motel is a straight-off-the-peg PTDC-

3 issue motel, with one class of standard rooms.
It’s a couple of kilometres northeast of town
so is aimed at tour groups and those with
vehicles. Between September and March you
may find it deserted unless you ring first.
8

Getting There & Away

The general bus stand has pick-ups and
Bazaar minibuses to Drosh (Rs 160, four hours) and
4 also minibuses to Chitral (Rs 200, 5½ hours).
There are a few direct minibuses to Peshawar
9 in the early morning (Rs 180, seven hours),
otherwise you’ll have to change at Timargarha
(Rs 50, 2½ hours). It’s also quicker to change
Bazaar
1 if you’re heading to Rawalpindi.

AROUND DIR
The Dir Hotel can arrange jeep trips up
5 the Panjkora Valley to the meadows of the
10
Kumrat Valley in Dir Kohistan, around a
5
3 five-hour drive. The walking here is lovely,
2
To Timargarha (71km); but you’ll need a tent, food, a local Kohistani
Mingora (140km);
Peshawar (240km) 6 guide and permission from the assist-
ant commissioner of Dir, all of which will
at the bottom are cheapest, eventual as- be arranged for about Rs 2000 per person
cending to Rs 500 rooms with carpet and per day, including transport. The region is
hot shower tribal and lawless and shouldn’t be visited
Abshar Hotel (%880735; s/d Rs 250/400) A good alone.
budget option in the north of town, the
friendly Abshar has an excellent riverside loca- LOWARI PASS
tion (abshar means riverside). Rooms are good The weather-beaten road climbs slowly from
value for the price, many with balconies. Dir to the forested Lowari Pass (3118m), from
 220 C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

where it descends in a series of dizzyingly tight isolated region, connected to the rest of the
switchbacks towards Drosh on the Chitral country by just two roads over the 3118m
side. The road is highly sensitive to the sea- Lowari Pass from Dir and the 3810m Shandur
sons and is normally only open between June from Gilgit. Both roads are closed by snow
and October, although snow often persists in the winter, leaving just a highly weather-
quite late into the summer. Trucks crawl along dependent air service or a rough road that
the road in snail-like convoys, holding up briefly skirts into Afghan territory (which
impatient minibus drivers who are anxious to foreigners are forbidden from using) to stop
overtake on as many blind corners as they can. Chitral becoming totally cut off. The Lowari
In early and late summer you can sometimes Pass tunnel, if it’s ever completed, will im-
see nomadic Gujar families on the road with prove Chitral’s connections considerably.
their herds and belongings. Its isolated location means that Chitral (the
A tunnel is under construction at the foot name refers equally to the town and valley)
of the pass to improve year-round access to sees comparatively few tourists, which is a
Chitral. Progress has been on-off for years, great shame as it’s an area of amazing beauty.
but workers seemed hard at it when we passed The massif of Tirich Mir (7760m) dominates
them and we were repeatedly assured that the the entire lower valley, while the mountain
tunnel would be opening ‘soon’. We live in slopes are softened by orchards and terraced
hope, but still anticipate enjoying the moun- fields of wheat and barley as they descend
tain ride for a while longer yet. to the wide valley floor and the banks of the
Thirteen kilometres from the top of the pass grand Chitral River (known further upstream
is the village and checkpoint at Ziarat, where as the Mastuj River).
foreigners need to show their passports. One Hospitable people and the valley’s grandeur
kilometre beyond this is a popular truck stop – make Chitral tailor-made for trekking, while
a group of chaikhanas (teahouses) and stalls the Kalasha valleys offer a wholly unique view
where the food is cheap and the reception of Pakistan, in the remnants of an ancient
cheerful. There’s another checkpoint demand- pagan culture that welcomes sensitive visitors
ing a signature 7km on, and 9km further is the with open arms.
guesthouse Naghar Fort (Map p221; %0943-482007; s/d
Rs 1000/1400), overlooking a bend on the Chitral HISTORY
River and run by descendants of the former The Chitral Valley is the historic home to
rulers of Chitral. We doubt if many guest- two main ethnic groups, Ancient Chitralis
houses in the country have so grand a setting. and the Kalasha.
There are just four rooms with river views, all Ancient Chitralis, called Kho, prob-
meticulously clean and with bucket hot water ably came from what is now northeastern
on request. Breakfast (Rs 100) and lunch and Afghanistan. Local legends recall a golden age
dinner (Rs 250 each) are served in a large around the 8th century under a semimythical
dining room and there’s a comfortable lounge Buddhist king called Bahman, at around the
where you can browse the visitors books, same time a Chinese army temporarily oc-
which date back to 1936. Ask to be dropped cupied the valley. Smaller numbers of Kalasha
off at the junction, from where there’s a bridge have simultaneously occupied several small
and a stiff walk up to the fort. The surround- valleys, stretching into Afghanistan, where
ing countryside has heavenly walking through they followed their own religion and claimed
neighbouring villages and fields. to be descendants of Alexander the Great’s
Twelve kilometres from Naghar Fort is armies. Although Tamerlane subdued Chitral
Drosh (p222), midway point between the en route to Punjab in 1398, even he took a
Lowari Pass and Chitral town. beating from the tough Kalasha.
The end of the 19th century was the time
of biggest change for Chitral, as the region
CHITRAL DISTRICT was swept up in the Great Game (see p30).
The Afghan Kalasha were converted to Islam
The 350km-long Chitral Valley sits up in by swordpoint in 1893, and their homeland’s
Pakistan’s northwest corner, hemmed in by name changed from Kafiristan (‘Land of
the Hindukush mountains and sharing a the Infidels’) to Nuristan (‘Land of Light’).
long border with Afghanistan. It’s a relatively Simultaneously, the death of Chitral’s first
lonelyplanet.com C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • H i s t o r y 221

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CHITRAL DISTRICT 0
0
50 km
30 miles

TAJIKISTAN r
ido Boroghil Pass
rr (3777m)
Co
an
kh
Wa
Lasht
USH Yashkist
DUK Go
l Darkot Pass
HIN
Rua

Sholkuch
AFGHANISTAN ol Sor Rich n
G hu Thui An

rk
h
Saraghrar Ric

Ya
Noshaq (7349m) Bang
(7492m) ol Shagram
h G Brep
Istor-o-nal Zani Pass iric
l

Rain
ho Go

(3840m) T
(7403m) Warijun Warkup Yasin
H Chapali
US Tu ri k Istaru
K Shagrom Parwak
Mastuj
N DU Uthul
Miragram Gilgit
Rive
r
HI Tirich Mir Koragh
Buni Gosht Gupis Gakuch
Arka ri ol

Borsat Teru
l

(7760m)
Go
G

Buni Zom
l

(6550m) Harchin
Go

Laspur
d

Dorah Pass
Go aba

Reshun Phander
rim

Murdon Lake
l

Gol t kho
Ka

Garam Chashma Lu
Muroi Sor Laspur Shandur Pass
j
stu

Istor (3810m) To Gilgit

Gol

Chitral
l
Go

Izghor
Ma

Begusht Gol NP J NORTHERN AREAS

RA
Birmogh
en

Lasht
ol
G

Shui Pass Bironshal Koghozi D U

Chitral IN
Rumbu r H
G Madaglasht
ol
o ret Ayun
mb ol
See Kalasha Bu ol ol
G
G
Valleys Map ir G
i
ish

Gol
Bir

(p229)
Sh

Drosh Kalam
Naghar Fort
Mirkhani a
k or NORTH-WEST
nj
Pa
l

FRONTIER
Go

H
Lowari Pass (3118m) PROVINCE KK
Swat
Arandu District
r
na

Dir
Ku

Dir District
The external boundaries of Pakistan
& India on this map have not been
authenticated and may not be correct.
To Peshawar Madyan
(185km)

mehtar (prince) sparked a particularly bloody Now in a tight spot, the garrison was eventu-
fight for succession that eventually drew in ally relieved after seven weeks when a relief
the expanding British empire. Afzal ul-Mulk force from Gilgit hauled cannons over the
(son of the first mehtar) seized the throne Shandur Pass in shoulder-high snow. This
and set about picking off his siblings in an epic trek allowed the British to draw atten-
age-old tradition of consolidating power. As tion away from their badly handled inter-
various brothers either fled to Gilgit or sent ference and celebrate a heroic campaign of
rival forces from exile in Afghanistan, the empire instead, with medals and knighthoods
British manoeuvred Afzal’s brother Nizam for all.
into power, only to see him bumped off by Following this debacle, Chitral was left
yet another relative. Deciding enough was largely to its own devices, although it was
enough, a detachment of 400 British soldiers transferred in the early 20th century from
was sent to occupy Chitral fort (the mehtar’s Gilgit to the newly formed NWFP. Princely
ancestral home), put a 12-year-old ul-Mulk on privileges continued well past Pakistan’s in-
the throne and attempt to take charge. dependence, until being formally abolished in
This at least unified the Chitralis, who im- 1972, although the ul-Mulk family still hold
mediately laid siege to the interfering British. much sway politically. The local passes were
 222 C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n lonelyplanet.com
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PROVINCE

CHITRAL FESTIVALS
For Chitralis, the year’s big event is the Shandur Polo Festival (7–9 July) – four days of polo and
merrymaking at the top of the Shandur Pass, culminating in the celebrated match against Gilgit
(see the boxed text, p276). With many jeeps going to and fro, this is also the best time to cross
the pass. In the run-up to the festival there is polo almost every other day in Chitral.
The Chitral Festival (15–21 September) is a week-long celebration of local culture, with folk
music, poetry and competitions of all sorts ranging from archery and river-swimming to wrestling.
Ismailis in the north enjoy the spring festival of Nauroz on 21 March, while the Kalasha have
many of their own festivities (see the boxed text, p231).
In the far north near the Kurambar Pass on the Afghan border is the recently inaugurated
Jashan-i-Boroghil (15–17 July) centred on the local nomadic Wakhi culture. Although hard to
access – you need your own vehicle and camping equipment – it’s a fantastic occasion, with
music, crafts, buzkashi (a variant of polo) and even yak polo.
For more information on all Chitral’s festivals, visit the Chitral Association for Mountain Area
Tourism office (CAMAT; p224).

favoured smuggling routes for mujaheddin came from Badakhshan in Afghanistan a cen-
fighting the Soviets during the war in the tury ago to manufacture matchlock rifles for
1980s, and the sensitive Afghan border means the mehtar.
that the central government still keeps a fairly Sleeping options are thin in Drosh, so bas-
close eye on Chitral. ing yourself in Chitral or Naghar is prefer-
able. If you need to, you might end up at the
ACCOMMODATION basic Javed Palace (%80388; d Rs 200) by the bus
Aside from the hotels in the towns of the station. There are C&W resthouses in Drosh
Chitral Valley, the NWFP Construction & and Gahiret (20 minutes north of Drosh on
Works (C&W) resthouses are a viable and the main road), booked through the C&W
attractive option as they’re often in remote, assistant engineer (p224) in Chitral town.
peaceful settings. They usually consist of two
or four basic double rooms with bedding, Getting There & Away
with a chowkidar (caretaker) who’ll do at-cost Minibuses to Dir (Rs 160, four hours) depart
meals from what’s available (it’s better to bring Drosh in the mornings. Regular minibuses to
a few supplies of your own). If officials aren’t Chitral town are Rs 20, along with pick-ups
using them, you can stay at the visitors’ rate where you bump along in the back. Passenger
of Rs 400 a double. At the office of the assist- jeeps to Madaglasht cost Rs 60. You can also
ant engineer (p224) in Chitral town you can hire a pick-up or jeep here.
book C&W resthouses at Chitral town, Garam
Chashma, Birir Valley, Bumboret Valley, Buni, CHITRAL TOWN
Mastuj, Reshun and Drosh. You can also try %0943
the assistant engineer in Buni or Drosh. The administrative centre of Chitral Valley and
the old seat of the ruling mehtars, Chitral is a
DROSH & THE SHISHI VALLEY small, relaxed town. It’s possible to get stuck
Midway between the Lowari Pass and Chitral here for more than a few days taking in the
town is Drosh, headquarters of the Chitral scenery and the mountain air. It can feel like a
Scouts. First levied by the British in 1903, they long way from anywhere else in Pakistan, due
now guard the many passes into Afghanistan. in part to the effort involved in getting here
There’s nothing to see in Drosh itself, but over the high passes. Most people stop here to
it’s the starting point for visiting Shishi recharge their batteries before using it as a base
Gol, the side valley that yawns just north of to visit the Kalasha valleys, or to push on to the
Drosh. There’s a good jeep road and remote Shandur Pass or south to Peshawar.
treks over to other Chitral valleys. A guide Chitral’s attractions are modest yet still at-
is essential. tractive. The main focus is on the old fort on
Shishi Gol’s main village, Madaglasht, is the river that sheltered the besieged British
populated by Persian-speaking Tajiks who garrison in 1895, and the intricate Grand
lonelyplanet.com C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • C h i t r a l T o w n 223

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
CHITRAL TOWN 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles

To New Bus Stand (2km); To Chitral

A B Airport (3km); Hotel
C Guesthouse (1.4km); D
Hindukush Heights (6km); Upper Chitral;
INFORMATION Garam Chashma (33km) Shandur Pass (156km)
Aafaq Computer Centre.................1 B4
Allied Bank.....................................2 B3
1 C&W Assistant Engineer................3 C4
CAMAT Office...........................(see 29)
Chitral Travel Bureau......................4 C3 Chew Bridge
Deputy Commissioner’s Office.......5 A5
DFO – Wildlife...............................6 D2
Foreigners’ Registration..............(see 14)
Habib Bank....................................7 C4
Hindu Kush Trails.......................(see 29)
Hospital.........................................8 C4
Microworld Internet...................(see 25)
Muslim Commercial Bank...............9 B4
National Bank...............................10 B5 6
Pakistan Tourism Development 31
Corporation (PTDC) Office....(see 31)
2 Pharmacies...................................11 B4
Photocopiers..............................(see 11) aar
Post Office...................................12 B4 Baz
ya

C
Public Bathhouses.........................13 B4 To Lower Chitral;
Na

34

h
Superintendent of Police..............14 C4 Kalasha Valleys;
Telephone Exchange....................15 C3 Lowari Pass (96km);

i
Dir (124km)
United Bank Limited (UBL)...........16 B3

t
r
a
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 25 l
Chitral Fort (Mehtars’ Palace).......17 C3
Naya Ba

Chitral Museum of Archaeology &

Jamia 28 R
Ethnology.................................18 B6 Masjid 15 i
24 Rd v
Polo Ground................................19 A6 32
zaar

Shahi Masjid (Grand Mosque)......20 C3 e

4 r
3 22
To Birmogh Lasht (12km); 2 27
Chaghbini (12.5km); Chitral 20
Gol National Park (13km) Rd 17
16 jid
26 as
hiM
33 S ha 30

21

PIA Chowk
Rd

7
13 14
rt
Fo
Shahi Bazaar

Fisheries Office
4 1 3
9
11 8

12
SLEEPING
Agha Jan Hotel & Restaurant.......21 B4
Chitral Gol Al-Farooq Hotel...........................22 B3
Chinar Inn....................................23 B5
36 Chitral City Tower........................24 B3
Hotel Dreamland..........................25 B3
23
Hotel Mountain View...................26 B3
Ataliq Bridge
Hotel Savana................................27 B3
zaar
5 Jang Ba 10 Hotel Tourist Lodge......................28 B3
29
Mountain Inn...............................29 B5
5
37 Pamir Riverside Inn......................30 D3
PTDC Chitral Motel......................31 B2
Tirich Mir View Hotel...................32 C3
To Protected Areas
Management Project r EATING
Chitral Gol National aa
az Pamir Riverside Inn Restaurant...(see 30)
Park Office (500m) qB
ali
At PTDC Chitral Motel Restaurant..(see 31)
18 Samosa, Pakora & Tikka stalls.......33 B3
Tirich Mir View Hotel-ea............(see 32)
19
TRANSPORT
Minibuses to Garam Chasma, Dir,
35
6 Timargarha, Peshawar, Gilgit....34 B2
Natco Office..............................(see 23)
PIA Booking Office.......................35 B6
Transport to Buni,Mastuj, Upper Chitral
and Gilgit.................................36 B5
Transport to Kalasha Valleys.........37 B5
 224 C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • C h i t r a l T o w n lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

Mosque nearby. But the local life is even more TOURIST INFORMATION
interesting. The bazaar is a lively mix of tradi- Chitral Association for Mountain Area Tourism
tional and modern, although the conservative (CAMAT; %413540; [email protected]) Very
nature of society means that it’s possible to go helpful local tourist association providing framework for
from day to day without seeing a woman on sustainable and community-led tourism in Chitral, and
the streets (Chitralis are welcoming of foreign organising body for Chitral festivals. Can advise on guides,
women, however). In summer there are polo trips to the Kalasha valleys and trekking, and sells maps
matches several times a week, building up to and postcards.
the classic match with Gilgit for the Shandur C&W Assistant Engineer (%413406; off Fort Rd;
Cup in July. h9am-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri) For booking
Chitralis are mostly Kho-speaking, al- C&W resthouses throughout Chitral.
though there is a sizable Pashtun population. Divisional Forestry Office – Wildlife (DFO;
In addition, Afghans make up a significant %412101) Inquire here about resthouses in Chitral Gol
minority and operate many businesses, National Park. You’ll find this office on the east bank of the
from bakeries to transport. Given the prox- Chitral River.
imity of the border, vehicle smuggling is Protected Areas Management Project Chitral Gol
common here. National Park (Jang Bazaar Rd) The place to come to
organise a park-game watcher for trekking in Chitral Gol
Orientation National Park (see Gokshal An & Doni An, p342). Look for a
Chitral is virtually a one-street town. South of large white building 20 minutes’ walk uphill from Moun-
Ataliq Bridge the main road is called Ataliq tain Inn, 100m off the road.
Bazaar, where you’ll find the polo ground and PTDC office (%412683; Naya Bazaar) Located in the
the road to the Lowari Pass and Kalasha val- PTDC Chitral Motel.
leys. From the bridge to the junction of PIA
Chowk the road is called Shahi Bazaar. Shahi TRAVEL AGENCIES
Masjid Rd leads off this towards the Grand Chitral Travel Bureau (CTB; %412461; Jamia Masjid
Mosque. North of PIA Chowk is called Naya Rd) A good source of local information. It can arrange
Bazaar, which runs all the way to Chew Bridge treks, horseriding and jeep hire, plus has some camping
over the Chitral River. equipment for hire.
Transport leaves from several small yards Hindu Kush Heights (%413151; hotels@hindukush
on the main road according to the destina- .isb.sdnpk.org; Hotel Hindukush Heights) Out-of-town
tion – Ataliq Bazaar for the Kalasha valleys, location, but reliable operator good for trekking and climb-
Shahi Bazaar for Mastuj, and Naya Bazaar ing expeditions, as well as horseriding and jeep hire.
for all transport heading towards Peshawar. Hindukush Trails (%412581; info@hindukushtrails
The airport is 2km north of Chew Bridge, on .com; Mountain Inn) Organises jeep safaris and trekking,
the west bank. and manages the royal forts at Mastuj, Ayun and Naghar.

Information Sights
INTERNET ACCESS CHITRAL FORT & SHAHI MASJID
Don’t expect fast connections. The mehtars’ fort (Fort Rd) has a commanding
Aafaq Computer Centre (Shahi Bazaar; per hr Rs 40; position on the river. It remains the seat of
h8am-8pm) the mehtar’s descendents so you can’t enter it
Microworld Internet (Naya Bazaar; per hr Rs 40; without an invitation, although if you knock
h9am-8pm) on the main gate one of the chowkidars may let
you stick your head around the door to see the
MONEY old cannons in the courtyard. The entrance on
National Bank (Ataliq Bridge) Cashes travellers cheques. the southeast end is to the residential quarters,
Habib Bank (Fort Rd) while the one facing Shahi Bazaar was for the
royal guard. The most interesting side faces
POST the river and is best viewed from the far end
Post Office (Fort Rd) Poste restante is in the back room. of Naya Bazaar or from across the river. The
ornate building up the road southwest towards
TELEPHONE the police station was the royal courthouse. The
There are plentiful public call offices (PCOs) walls were once plastered, but its loss reveals
in Chitral’s bazaar. the sturdy stone-and-wood structure beneath.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • C h i t r a l T o w n 225

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
It has a few local ethnographic exhibits, but

PROVINCE
REGISTRATION & KALASHA VALLEYS is a little disappointing and keeps irregular
PERMITS hours (you may have to find someone to open
Because Chitral is a sensitive region near the it for you). It compares poorly with the excel-
Afghan border, you’re expected to register lent Kalasha museum (Kal’as’a Dur; p232)
on arrival with Chitral town’s superintend- in Bumboret.
ent of police (Map p223; Fort Rd; h 8am-
3pm) to obtain a Temporary Registration Sleeping
Form, irrespective of the usual foreigner- All midrange options, but only some budget
registration regulations or whether you’ve hotels, have hot running water. Even then,
registered elsewhere. Entering the main hot water is often restricted to certain times
building, the Foreigners’ Registration office of the morning or evening. Other places will
is about halfway down the corridor on your heat buckets of water for you, but if you’re in a
left. Registration takes around 10 minutes. cheapie you might prefer to use the hammams
You’ll need to show your Temporary (public bathhouses) near PIA Chowk.
Registration Form when you visit the
Kalasha valleys, and if you plan to spend BUDGET
more than a week there. You’ll also need Hotel Savana (%412294; off Jamia Masjid Rd; s/d/tr
a permit from the deputy commissioner’s Rs 100/200/300) The no-frills Savana is perfectly
office (Map p223), west of Ataliq Bridge in fine for the price, but isn’t going to win any
Chitral town. There’s no charge for these prizes. The courtyard is used as a car park,
forms and permits. which can make things noisy.
Al-Farooq Hotel (%412726; Naya Bazaar; dm/s/d
Rs 100/150/300) A popular budget choice, where
The fort’s water supply lies outside the walls, a rooms are packed in pretty tightly, but are
fact that caused considerable problems for the decent enough. Friendly management and a
British soldiers besieged here in 1895. travellers’ hints book are bonuses, alongside
To the west of the fort is the Shahi Masjid (Grand the terrace with views to Tirich Mir (although
Mosque), built by the ul-Mulks near the end of new building work opposite is doing its best
the 19th century. Its pinkish walls and white to spoil it).
onion dome make it one of north Pakistan’s Chitral City Tower (%412912; Jamia Masjid Rd; s/d
most distinctive mosques, particularly as its Rs 200/300) The rooms here are better than aver-
minarets frame Tirich Mir in the far distance. age for the price tag, with decent fixtures and
It’s usually fine to visit, but ask permission fittings. You might get tired of all the stairs,
before entering and avoid Friday prayers. but the reward is the roof terrace – with views
over Chitral in every direction, it’s ideal for
POLO chilling.
At the south end of town is one of Pakistan’s Agha Jan Hotel & Restaurant (%0300-9363268;
best polo grounds (Ataliq Bazaar; free), where practice PIA Chowk; s/d Rs 200/300) There are just five rooms
matches are held every few days from mid- at this place overlooking the busy junction,
March to early November, and real matches all new and clean with carpets and adequate
on weekends, always in the afternoon. On one bathrooms. The restaurant is good, but road
side is a covered VIP stand, where tourists noise might be an issue for some.
may sometimes sit (if there are no dignitaries Hotel Tourist Lodge (%412452; Jamia Masjid Rd;
in town). The best players are often drawn s/d/tr Rs 200/350/450) The friendly Tourist Lodge
from the Chitral Scouts and the police. The has simple rooms with cold showers in slightly
best times for polo are from late May onwards, dingy bathrooms. Reasonable, but probably
and in the run-up to the Shandur and Chitral not top of the list if you’re comparing with
festivals. The PTDC office or CAMAT will be others hotels nearby.
able to advise on upcoming matches. Hotel Dreamland (%412806; Naya Bazaar; s/d
Rs 250/350) The distinctively decorated foyer
CHITRAL MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY & leads to simple, characterless rooms with
ETHNOLOGY cold showers, though you can pay an extra
This small new museum (Ataliq Bazaar; free) is hundred a head for carpets and hot water to
poorly signed but next to the polo ground. cushion your stay a little more.
 226 C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • C h i t r a l T o w n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

Chinar Inn (%412582; s/d Rs 300/400) An ex- Around 10km north of town, this hotel
cellent option, with a handful of rooms sets itself apart by more than just location.
looking onto a delightfully peaceful Owned by the former mehtar’s family, it’s
honeysuckle-ringed garden. Rooms are something of a boutique offering. Spacious
tidy and spacious, with warm showers and rooms are beautifully decorated in Chitrali
sit-down toilets. Located near Ataliq Bridge. style, complementing the tremendous moun-
The PTDC Chitral Motel and Pamir tain views around every corner. Service is
Riverside Inn sometimes allow overlanders immaculate, and the restaurant worth the ef-
to camp in their grounds. fort of getting here (call in advance). Popular
with tour groups, so reservations in summer
MIDRANGE are recommended. A jeep hire from town
Mountain Inn (%412581; fax 412668; Jang Bazaar; s/d/ste is Rs 500.
Rs 1200/1600/2000) A long time favourite with
tour groups, who enjoy the large shady gar- Eating
dens that the hotel encloses, along with the Nearly all the hotels have their own restau-
excellent service. Rooms are spacious and rant: basic curry and naan at the budget ho-
fronted by a wide veranda, with the wooden tels, and Chinese and Continental alongside
style faintly echoing Kalasha architecture. The Pakistani dishes at the midrange hotels. If
hotel also contains the offices of CAMAT and you’re not staying at a midrange hotel it’s
the Hindu Kush Trails tour operator. worth calling ahead to see if they’re open –
Tirich Mir View Hotel (%412911; terichmirview some restaurants close if there is no tour
@hotmail.com; Shahi Masjid Rd; s/d Rs 1550/1950) This group booked in. Recommended are the res-
hotel could be anywhere in Pakistan, with taurants at the Tirich Mir View Hotel (%412911;
modern but slightly characterless rooms. mains Rs 80-250; hdinner), the Pamir Riverside Inn
Until you step outside, that is. It’s the set- (%412525; buffet Rs 450; hdinner) and the PTDC
ting that clinches it – all rooms look out Chitral Motel (%412683; mains Rs 100-250; hlunch
over a wide terrace towards the river and & dinner). If you have your own transport,
(as the name suggests) the mountains be- the Hotel Hindukush Heights (%413151) has set
yond. The hotel restaurant is worth checking lunches (Rs 250) and dinners (Rs 450), but
out for nonguests, but doesn’t serve dinner is awkward to get to.
until 8pm. In various chaikhanas (teahouses) and
PTDC Chitral Motel (%412683; Naya Bazaar; s/d Afghan restaurants around PIA Chowk,
Rs 1500/2000) The rooms are rather soulless Ataliq Bridge and Naya Bazaar, you can sit
but clean and comfortable and there’s an cross-legged and eat qabli pilau (rice with
OK restaurant. meat and raisins), mutton curry or dhal for
Pamir Riverside Inn (%412525; fax 413365; pamirriver under Rs 60 a head. Street stalls sell freshly
[email protected]; Noghor Gardens; s/d Rs 2000/2500, cot- cooked samosas and pakoras (deep-fried veg-
tage Rs 1300-1500) This inn used to be the mehtars’ etables) for about Rs 2 an item, and there are
guesthouse and enjoys a peaceful, breezy riv- plenty of seasonal fruit stalls and bakeries
erside location below the fort. There are some (ask for tiki, pastries, sometimes stuffed with
quaint cottages and rooms in the larger new cheese or walnuts). Note that everything shuts
block, all comfortably appointed. There’s a in Chitral by around 9pm.
reasonable restaurant serving a Pakistani,
Chinese and Continental buffet in the eve- Shopping
nings (Rs 450). Prices exclude 5% tax. There are plenty of shops strung along Shahi
At the time of research a new midrange Bazaar selling Chitrali clothing, which makes
hotel, Hotel Tirich Mir View (Jami Masjid Rd), was a good souvenir. A local speciality is patti, a
under construction. Also, the well-regarded fine woollen cloth that’s made up into chogha
Chitral Guesthouse, 1.5km north of Chew robes, embroidered waistcoats or the clas-
Bridge on its east side, was undergoing sic pancake-shaped pakol cap (which should
extensive renovation. cost less than Rs 200). Afghan-run handi-
craft shops in the bazaar offer a selection
TOP END of rugs, jewellery and carved wood from
Hotel Hindukush Heights (%413151; hotels@hindu Nuristan. A few places also sell secondhand
kush.isb.sdnpk.org.pk; Gankorini; s/d Rs 4000/6000; a) trekking gear.
lonelyplanet.com C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • A r o u n d C h i t r a l T o w n 227

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Getting There & Away The road is paved from Chitral town to

PROVINCE
AIR Buni, wide and graded to Sor Laspur, nar-
The PIA booking office (%412963; Ataliq Bazaar; row and jeep-only from there over the pass
h9am-1pm & 2-4.30pm) is south of the polo to Phander, with ongoing construction work
ground. Two flights depart for Peshawar each likely to cause delays. From Phander the road
morning, one at 7.45am and one at 11am is mostly paved, apart from sections under
(Rs 3750, 45 minutes), plus there’s a daily repair. The Shandur is normally open from
early morning flight to Islamabad (Rs 4000, June to October. Foreigners must sign in at
80 minutes). Departures are weather-depend- several police posts. By bike, Chitral to Gilgit
ent as the plane flies through the Lowari Pass, takes about eight days, with the Chitral side
with groundings rare in summer but frequent being the steepest.
in winter. Reconfirm at the PIA office the For details of what to see and where to stay
morning before departure. If the flight is can- along the way, see Upper Chitral (p233) and
celled, you must return to the office to get the Karakoram Highway’s Punial, Ishkoman,
listed on the next flight. Yasin & Ghizar (p282).

MINIBUS & PASSENGER JEEP JEEP HIRE

Minibuses make the 12- to 14-hour trip to CAMAT (p224) works with local jeep driv-
Peshawar daily from around 6am (Rs 400) ers to set rates for special hire. Sample one-
from the main stand on Naya Bazaar. These way prices include to Bumboret (Rs 1800),
also stop at Dir (Rs 200, five hours), and Rumbur (Rs 1600), Mastuj (Rs 3000) Shandur
Timargarha (Rs 230, eight hours) from where (Rs 8000) and Gilgit (Rs 12,000). Daily hire is
you can change for Swat transport. Should the otherwise Rs 2500.
Lowari Pass tunnel be finished, minibuses will
run this route year-round. Currently, when Getting Around
the pass is snowbound in winter, vehicles Passenger Suzukis or jeeps to/from the airport
skirt into Afghanistan at Arandu – a transport are Rs 10 (special hire costs Rs 50). Chitral is
option off limits to foreigners. otherwise compact enough to be negotiated
Passenger jeeps to Bumboret leave about on foot.
twice a day, and daily to Rumbur, from a stand
off Ataliq Bazaar (both Rs 50, 2½ hours), but AROUND CHITRAL TOWN
check a day ahead for likely departure times. For maps and information on treks around
Transport is less frequent to Birir, and you Chitral town, see Lonely Planet’s Trekking in
may need to change at Ayun (Rs 40, 90 min- the Karakoram & Hindukush.
utes) or Gahiret (see p230).
For Mastuj (Rs 130, five hours) and Buni BIRMOGH LASHT
(Rs 80, three hours), jeeps leave from a stand The ex-mehtar used to spend several months
just north of Ataliq Bridge. Also ask here for a year at his summer palace on a plateau
jeeps to the upper valley, including Turikho 1200m above Chitral town. The name means
and Sor Laspur and the Yarkhun Valley (al- Walnut Plain. The royal house is crumbling
though it may prove easier to find a cargo but the grand wrap-around views of the valley
jeep in Mastuj). and Tirich Mir are still there, along with the
The Northern Areas Transport Company (Natco; occasional soaring eagle.
% 412582), based at Chinar Inn ( opposite), It’s a hot, shadeless, three- to four-hour
runs a 10-seat Land Cruiser between Chitral walk one way to get here, so start early. The
and Gilgit (Rs 600, 14 to 16 hours). The serv- road begins beyond the YZ Hotel on Shahi
ice nominally operates twice a week but was Masjid Rd; take the first left fork onto a jeep
suspended during research due to landslides, track (the paved road continues to the right to
meaning that transport only went as far as a government guesthouse overlooking town).
Brook Laspur in either direction. When run- Shave 30 minutes off by taking the steep ridge
ning, the trip is a long hard road in one go, path instead of the switchback jeep track. A
and it doesn’t allow you to break en route. If return jeep ride costs around Rs 2000.
you are in a group, an alternative is to hire a It’s a pretty, restful place to spend the
jeep (see right), either direct or through your night, but although the PTDC built a motel
hotel. at Birmogh Lasht, it’s never been opened.
 228 C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • G a r a m C h a s h m a lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

slightly sulphurous) spring. There are some

HOW LONG FROM CHITRAL TO lovely walks in the area, but as it butts up
GILGIT? against the Afghan border the local police
Following are distances and approximate will expect you to register your presence on
travel times by jeep: arrival. There’s also Chitral’s best-known
Route Distance Time trout reach on the Lutkho River heading
into Garam Chashma. Licences are available
Chitral town–Buni 75km 3hr from the fisheries warden on the outskirts of
Buni–Mastuj turn-off 32km 2hr the village.
Mastuj turn-off–Sor Laspur 28km 1½hr Garam Chasma works best as a day trip.
Sor Laspur–Shandur Pass 11km 30min The very basic Hotel Innjigaan (s/d Rs 80/120), east
Shandur Pass–Teru 28km 1½hr of the bazaar, has a big pool full of hot spring
Teru–Phander 22km 1½hr water to soothe your bones. Voyeurs are
Phander–Gupis 60km 2½ hr screened out so women in bathing costumes
Gupis–Gakuch 40km 1hr should feel quite safe. There’s also a simple
Gakuch–Singhal 17km 45min
restaurant, but bring candles. A tiny C&W
Singhal–Gilgit 53km 2hr
resthouse can be booked through the assistant
engineer in Chitral town (p224), and there
The only sleeping option is the wildlife rest- are a few Afghan inns in the bazaar serving
house 30 minutes’ walk further up at Chaghbini, meat and rice.
which you can book at the Divisional Forestry
Office (p224) in Chitral. The single resthouse Getting There & Away
has two rooms, each with two beds for Rs 1000 Garam Chasma is reached by pick-up or pas-
per room, with no hot water (although there senger jeep (Rs 40, two hours) from Chitral
is running water), and there is a bathroom. town, leaving from the main yard on Naya
You can camp next to the resthouse for free, Bazaar. A return jeep from Chitral costs
but bring food wherever you stay. Rs 2500.
Special hires Chitral–Chaghbini cost
Rs 2000 (one hour). KALASHA VALLEYS
In devoutly Muslim Pakistan, the existence
CHITRAL GOL NATIONAL PARK of a pagan people still practising their ancient
The beautiful upper Chitral Gol watershed, customs – in however remote a series of val-
once a hunting preserve of the mehtars, is leys – comes as something as a shock. The
now a 7750-hectare national park. A few snow Kalasha have a proud and unique culture that
leopards persist here, while Himalayan ibex, has attracted everyone from missionaries to
markhor, wolves and brown bears have also anthropologists, do-gooders to snap-happy
been sighted in various parts of Chitral Gol, tourists. That they remain so welcoming to
especially in winter. This area, along with the visitors is something of a miracle.
Mastuj Valley, is also on an important mi- The Kalasha claim legendary ancestry as
gration route for birds between the Indian descendants of Alexander the Great’s armies
subcontinent and Siberia. left behind after his campaigns in the area.
There are forestry resthouses inside the Contrary to popular belief, they believe in
park at Merin, Kasavir and Gokhshal. All are one god (Dezau) but regard him as a distant
within a day’s walk of each other, but you’ll figure and instead pray or sacrifice to dewalok
need a sleeping bag and your own food. The (spirits) who deal with more earthly matters.
Protected Areas Management Project for the Life is divided into pure (onjesta) and impure
park in Chitral (p224) can help organise game (pragata) spheres, which impact greatly on
wardens to accompany you if you’ve a keen daily life and carry many associated taboos.
interest in spotting wildlife. For a trek between For example, menstruating women are con-
Chitral Gol and the Kalasha Valley of Rumbur sidered pragata, while altars, fireplaces and
see the Gokshal An & Doni An trek, p342. high pastures are onjesta. Breaking taboos or
polluting onjesta areas are easy for the casual
GARAM CHASHMA visitor to do without realising, so a Kalasha
This village in a largely Ismaili area two hours guide is often a good idea. The Kal’as’a Dur
northwest of Chitral is named for its hot (and cultural centre in Bumboret (p232) is an
lonelyplanet.com C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • K a l a s h a Va l l e y s 229

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE
KALASHA VALLEYS 0
0
4 km
2 miles
Chitral Gol To Lutkho
National Park Valley To Mastuj
(105km)

Ut Doni An/ See Chitral

ak Chimirsan An Town Map
(3713 m) (p223) Chitral
Mulen Gol
Go
l

Chimirsan Ghari

Uc
hu
sh
Ro Gol Uchusht

t
di Gol
Ju
Urghuch Dok gh
or
Baltum (3510 m) Gol
Jaja
hG

Ch
ol

itra
C hi m

l River
Shekhanandeh
i r sa

Ur
Rum
bur Gol

gh
Palario
nG

uc
Gol Urghuch

h
ol

Rawelik
(Revalik) Sundargah
Traghdhur Sajigor Balanguru
Naharjeo Batet
(Narajau) Grom

Kundyak An Kalashgrum
(2855 m)
Rum
bur

Lachorsin
Gomenah Va
lle
Nala y Police Checkpoint
l gah Shigala
Acho Passuwala
Gogalog
Ay

Gorasin
un

Gol Ayun
Donson Pass Ghariet
(2970 m)
ley

Brun
Val

Anish
Batrik t
ore
mb
Bu
Don
son
ol

Nala Krakal
tG
ie

Maskor Pass
ar
Gh

Sheikhanandeh Gumbak (2745m)

Gorimun Zom Gahiret

Gree An/ Gumbak An
Gol (3060 m)
et
bor
y
lle

m
Bu
Bachay Madir Birir Police Post Nojhbiu
Va

Gaskuru Aspar rir

Guru Bi
Biyo Bishala
oo Gol

Chitra
Pish

l Riv
er

Shera Shing Kuh

Jinjeret
Pass
To
AFGHANISTAN Drosh
(6km)
 230 C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • K a l a s h a Va l l e y s lonelyplanet.com
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
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excellent place to learn more about all aspects disrespecting Kalasha holy sites and burial
of Kalasha society. grounds, and the theft of cultural artefacts.
The valleys, wooded with deodar and holly Kalasha women who go proudly unveiled
oak, are small, rugged and beautiful. Rumbur have been hassled by domestic visitors who
and Birir are especially narrow, and the solid consider them ‘loose’.
houses of wood, stone and mud climb the
hillsides, the roof of each serving as the ve- Getting There & Around
randa of the next. The ground floors serve There are no villages called Rumbur,
as stables and storerooms; quarters upstairs Bumboret or Birir. Rather, passenger jeeps
typically include a windowless, sooty kitchen- drive to a particular valley, dropping pas-
cum-living room with a hearth and smoke sengers off at successive villages (or hotels).
hole in the middle and a door onto a veranda. Jeeps from Chitral to Bumboret depart at
Bumboret has the most spectacular views of least twice a day, and daily to Rumbur (both
these valleys, with great walks. Rs 50, 2½ hours), travelling via the (Muslim)
The Kalasha cultivate wheat, millet, maize gateway village of Ayun on the Chitral River.
and lentils, or herd goats. Sweet grapes, For more information see p227. About 8km
from gnarled vines growing up into the from Ayun, the valley forks, left to Bumboret
trees, are made into a sticky, fiery wine. and right to Rumbur. There’s a police check-
Mulberries, apricots, apples and plums are post here, where you’ll need to show your
plentiful, as are walnuts (a major protein Chitral registration (see the boxed text, p225)
source). There’s little meat beyond the rare and pay the Rs 200 toll levied on all visitors.
slaughtered goat. This permits you to visit all three valleys. The
Pakistanis seem to have an ambivalent approach roads are rough but very scenic,
attitude towards the Kalasha. While tour- with the Bumboret road often looking over
ist posters proudly picture Kalasha girls in fields and streams, while the Rumbur road
traditional costume as proof of Pakistan’s di- appears hewn straight from the sheer walls
versity, the valleys are under continual threat of the valley.
of cultural erosion. Mosques are increasingly Transport to Birir is less frequent. The
present in every valley and most businesses mouth of Birir Valley is at Gahiret, about
are run by incoming Muslims or recent 7km south of Ayun. Catch any Drosh-bound
converts (only in Rumbur are Kalasha still vehicle from Chitral and get off at the Gahiret
in the majority). Even the influx of tourism bridge over the Chitral River. Passenger jeeps
has proved a mixed bag, with many tourists sometimes leave from here (or Ayun itself),

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL IN THE KALASHA VALLEYS

Many Kalasha are uneasy about tourism and having cameras pointed at them, but most will
welcome interested individuals from abroad. Those you’ve come to know will often pose happily.
At the very least, ask the individual’s permission first before taking a photo – if it’s a woman,
ask any man who is with her as well.
If you’re new to a village, it’s not hard to find someone with a bit of English who is only too
happy to show you around and coach you on local taboos. If you’re serious you might want to
visit the local kazi (headman). Kalasha handicrafts are available in small shops (headdresses cost
Rs 800 to Rs 1300), and you may well be beckoned to enter a traditional house by one of the
local women. After a feed of sundried fruit and walnuts a cupboard will be opened to reveal
a small shop.
You may even be invited to stay in someone’s home. Do not expect a high standard of cleanli-
ness. You are unlikely to be asked for anything in return, though gifts are much appreciated and
should be your minimum contribution. Consider spending the hotel price that you have just saved
on staple foods for your hosts (rice is welcome, or salt or sugar) or warm secondhand clothing
from Chitral or a valley shop. Kalasha wine is sometimes available to try.
Little of the money generated from tourism actually makes it to the Kalasha. You can make a
difference by staying in Kalasha-owned hotels (these are indicated), hiring local Kalasha guides
and frequenting Kalasha shops.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • K a l a s h a Va l l e y s 231

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KALASHA FESTIVALS
The Kalasha take their festivals seriously, which invariably involve intricate religious ceremo-
nies, feasts and dancing. There may be adua-naat (day dancing) or raadt-naat (night dancing),
and some may be closed to outsiders. Each valley has its own style, though usually the older
men stand in the centre, taking turns chanting old legends – or just chatting. Accompanied by
drums, the women dance round them, their arms around one another’s waists and shoulders
in spinning twos and threes or trance-like encircling lines. The dates alter between the valleys
and may not be fixed until the last minute, often depending on harvest or other work, so ask
locally for the exact dates.

Joshi (or Chilimjust)

This feast is dedicated to spring and to future harvests. It includes day dancing and family reunions
on consecutive days in the three valleys in mid-May.

Uchal
The summer festival, celebrating the wheat and barley harvests, is a big tourist draw. It may
include night dancing every few days in successive villages in Bumboret and Rumbur, from
mid-June to mid-August.

Phool
This is held only in Birir, for three or four days in late September or early October. Night danc-
ing is held in various villages, and day dancing on the last day. It marks the walnut and grape
harvests and the end of winemaking, though its origins concern the return of shepherds from
the high pastures.

Chaumos
This solstice festival is probably the biggest for the Kalasha, with visiting, feasting and night
dancing for around 10 days starting in mid-December. During this time the demi-god Balomain
is believed to pass through the valley collecting prayers to take back to the creator, Dezau. In
Bumboret it’s closed to Muslims. Foreigners expecting to take part must arrive early to be ritu-
ally purified (menstruating women are forbidden from participating) and may need to buy their
own goat for sacrifice.

otherwise it’s a 2½-hour walk into the val- architecture. There are innumerable pretty
ley. The Birir police post is at Guru village; day walks to be done in Rumbur, from fol-
beyond here the road peters out. lowing the river up to Sajigor, an onjesta
When leaving the Kalasha valleys, it’s wise site to flocks and shepherds that is also used
to let your guesthouse know the day before for ritual sacrifices (only men can visit), to
travel, as they will be able to advise on what exploring the irrigation canals through the
time the passenger jeeps will pass by your fields and the many small side valleys.
front door so you can be ready to flag them
down. Jeeps tend to leave for Chitral in the SLEEPING & EATING
early morning. Accommodation is available in the villages
One-way jeep hire from Chitral costs of Grom and Balanguru, where you’ll find
Rs 1800 (Bumboret) and Rs 1600 (Rumbur the two best Kalasha guesthouses in all the
or Birir). A jeep from Bumboret to Rumbur valleys. The hotels listed here are in the order
costs around Rs 1400 return. they appear when you arrive in town.
Kalash Home Guest House ([email protected];
Rumbur Valley Grom; r full board Rs 300, r without bathroom Rs 250) The
The most traditional of the valleys, Rumbur first guesthouse on the road into Grom, where
is around 70% Kalasha. The two main vil- a warm welcome is guaranteed. Kalasha en-
lages of Grom and Balanguru sit either side of gineer Khan has added several bright and
a pretty river; the latter has the most local clean guestrooms onto his house and is a
 232 C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • K a l a s h a Va l l e y s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

great source of information on local culture. most interest to visitors is the complete re-
Kalasha food is served and you often eat construction of a traditional house from Brun
with the family. The views from the terrace village and the life-sized wooden Gandau
are fantastic. funerary statues. These were once erected
Kalash Grom Guesthouse (Grom; s/d Rs 100/200) On to celebrate the life of important figures, a
a right turn off the main road before Grom practice that has died out due to expense. Few
proper is a Kalasha house with two simple remain in situ, as antique dealers have stolen
rooms and traditional food on offer. many in the last 30 years. There is also a scale
Kalash Indigenous Guest House (Grom; s/d/tr model of a jestakhana (temple) that Kalasha
Rs 150/300/450) A nice garden, but rooms are staff guiding you around may use to explain
a little dreary. It’s aimed largely towards the ins and outs of onjesta and pragata.
Pakistani tourists.
Saifullah Jan’s Guest House (Balanguru; s with full SLEEPING
board Rs 300) Just over the bridge in Balanguru Hotels and guesthouses are listed in the order
and excellently run by Kalasha spokesman in which they appear when arriving in the
Saifullah Jan. There is a selection of good valley from Chitral, starting in Anish village.
rooms (those in the newer ‘block’ have bath- The further up you go, the better the views.
rooms), a pleasant garden and tasty local Kalasha-owned places tend to be slightly off
food. As with the Kalash Home Guest House the main road.
(above), a stay here easily slips into several PTDC Motel (% 0943-412683; Anish; s/d from
days more than originally intended. Rs 800/1000) Standard off-the-peg PTDC fare,
There are small shops in Grom where you with comfy rooms and adequate service.
can buy biscuits and a few basic supplies. Hotel Alexander Post (%0943-412806; Brun; s/d Rs
600/1000) A good midrange option – a twee mix
Bumboret Valley of Swiss cottage and traditional Kalasha archi-
Bumboret is the grandest and most developed tecture. Rates tumble upon further enquiries
of the three valleys. It has numerous hotels and there’s a pleasant garden.
and attracts the most tourists, although the Jinnah Kalash (Anish; s/d Rs 100/200) This Kalasha-
valley’s community is now about two-thirds owned hotel has fine rooms and a veranda
Muslim. Major villages with accommodation with superb views. Good value, and camping
are Anish, Brun, Batrik and Krakal. At the is possible.
upper end of the valley is the Nuristani set- Kalash House (Brun; r Rs 150) Uphill near the
tlement of Sheikhanandeh, where there is a Kal’as’a Dur, this sits near the similarly priced
mosque with a lovely wooden minaret. The Kalash View and Kalash Galaxy Guesthouses,
walks here, along the river and up to the pas- all simple Kalasha-run places in traditional
tures, are fantastic. From Anish to Krakal is style. Basic but fun, with local food on offer.
about an hour’s walk. Foreigners Tourist Inn (Brun; s/d Rs 500/600) Once
a forestry resthouse, this place is a favourite
SIGHTS with tour groups and has a large restaurant.
Kal’as’a Dur Rooms are spacious and clean and hot water
This cultural Centre (Brun; admission Rs 100, camera Rs can be arranged.
100; h9am-5pm, closed Wed) is an essential stop Frontier Hotel & Restaurant (Brun; s/d Rs 150/200)
for any visitor to the Kalasha valleys. Co- The Frontier’s rooms come with cold show-
funded by the Greek government and built as ers and are poky, though there’s a nice sitting
a showpiece of Kalasha architecture, it holds a area and staff will heat up a bucket of hot
museum and library, as well as a school, meet- water for you.
ing hall and clinic. Profits go towards health Ishpata Inn (Brun; dm/s/d Rs 150/200/400) On a rise
and education projects, as well as promoting above the road, the inn’s rooms are good but
Kalasha culture. need airing. Popular, with a nice garden and
The museum is full of cultural artefacts terrace balcony looking over the valley.
from clothes and jewellery to weapons and Peace Hotel (Batrik; s/d Rs 150/200) A friendly
kitchenware. One exhibit even invites you to Muslim-owned hotel with clean, comfort-
learn the Kalasha alphabet of 37 letters, de- able rooms with great views. Kalasha food is
rived by linguists to help record the Kalasha’s on offer, and hot water is provided in buckets.
fast-disappearing oral culture. Perhaps of Good value but lacking a garden.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • U p p e r C h i t r a l 233

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
Kalash Hotel (Krakal; camp sites Rs 25, dm/s/d Shandur Pass, offers any range of accommo-

PROVINCE
Rs 30/500/200) Kalasha-owned hotel with tradi- dation (and shops), although larger villages
tional food and shop. Rooms are simple but such as Koragh and Buni have cheap inns,
the welcome is very warm. and there are a few government resthouses.
Alexandra Hotel (Krakal; s/d 200/400) A handful A sleeping bag can also prove useful, as can
of decent rooms with a large and shady gar- candles and extra food to supplement thin
den for lounging. There’s a small shop and offerings along the road.
good food. North of Chitral town the river changes
Sissoyak Kalasha Hotel, Camping & Restaurant name to the Mastuj River and, beyond Mastuj
(Krakal; d Rs 200) The last decent sleeping option village, to the Yarkhun River. Turikho Gol
in the valley, but worth waiting for. Kalasha- is called Rich (pronounced ‘reech’) in its
owned, with basic rooms and a lovely orchard upper reaches.
garden. Helpful management.
Chitral Town to Buni
Birir Valley A 30-minute drive north of Chitral town, Golen
The least visited of the three valleys, Birir has Gol yawns to the east. Jeep-wallahs often stop in
the lowest proportion of traditional Kalasha Muroi at the Shandur Hotel, a small restaurant
and its Kalasha culture is under threat from with charpoys (simple beds made of ropes
conversion. The valley has good trekking and a wooden frame). Thirty minutes on at
potential, but there’s little public transport Reshun, a town seemingly made of red mud,
here. Major villages are Guru, Aspar, Bishala is a two-room C&W resthouse, booked with
and Biyo. the assistant engineer (p224) in Chitral. Here,
in a side action to the 1895 Siege of Chitral, a
SLEEPING & EATING Chitrali ambush near the mouth of Turikho
All the valley’s accommodation is in Guru. Gol wiped out about 100 Kashmiri and Sikh
As with the other valleys, you eat where troops and their British officers. The village of
you stay. Kalash Guest House (full board per person Koragh, 10 minutes past Reshun, has two basic
Rs 250) is one of the first houses after crossing inns, the Koragh Golden Inn Hotel and the
the footbridge into the village, and the only Kohistan Inn, at the east end of the bazaar.
Kalasha-owned option. The rooms and sepa- Buni, half an hour further north and across
rate cold shower are kept clean and the family the river by bridge, has a few cheap hotels and
here can organise local cultural and trekking an excellent C&W resthouse with a meadow
guides. Other choices are the Insaf Hotel (d outside for camping. Turn right at the top
with shared bathroom Rs 200) or the Paradise Hotel of the bazaar to find the C&W office. Out of
(s/d/tr Rs 100/200/300), on the south bank of the sight to the southeast is 6550m Buni Zom,
river after the bridge. Both are pretty basic. the highest peak in the Hindu Raj, Chitral’s
There’s also a C&W resthouse in Guru, and eastern mountains. Locals recommend the
another out on the Chitral road by Gahiret strenuous walk up Buni Gol, behind the town,
footbridge, bookable through the assistant to meadows at Shupishun.
engineer (p224) in Chitral town.
Turikho Gol
UPPER CHITRAL This is the ancient heartland of the Kho people
As you head north from Chitral town the and their language, Khowar. Mind-bending
mountains become increasingly spectacu- views of the highest giants of the Hindukush
lar, easily rivalling anything you might find and Hindu Raj are gained from the 3840m
along the Karakoram Highway. The valley is Zani Pass dividing the lower Turikho Gol
initially carpeted in fields and orchards, with from Tirich Gol, the route to the base of Tirich
each village clinging to the slopes that grow Mir. The crossing can be done in a day and
ever-more grand. The northern valleys form you could even go up for a day trip (three
a gnarled Y, forking left into Turikho Gol and hours, 8km) if the weather is clear. The trek
right to Yarkhun Gol. The welcome is warm starts from Uthul (Uthool; 2640m), north and
in the mainly Ismaili villages and women lead off the main valley road from Warijun, the
more public lives. local transport hub.
Travel is rough, mostly by passenger Occasional jeeps follow the separate road
jeep. Only Mastuj, a key stop en route to the up the right (east) side of Turikho Gol to
 234 C H I T R A L D I S T R I C T • • U p p e r C h i t r a l Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

Istaru, Warkup, Rain (ra-een) and Shagram Tourist Guesthouse, this offers similar fare.
villages. There are no formal places to stay It’s reasonably basic, but clean and friendly.
in Uthul or Tirich Gol. Shagram, in Turikho Hotel Hindu Kush Heights (%0943-413151; fax
Gol 6km past the mouth of Tirich Gol, has a 413153; s/d Rs 3400/4200) Next to Mastuj fort on
two-room C&W resthouse. the outskirts of the village, this is Chitral dis-
trict’s plushest hotel. Half a dozen chalets are
Mastuj set among shady grounds, nicely done out in
From Buni the paved road degenerates into wood, with verandas, real tubs in the bath-
a jeep track and continues eastwards up the rooms and old colonial photos on the walls –
Mastuj Valley, revealing awesome views of lovely. Food on request.
Buni Zom. Parwak could serve as a base to PTDC Motel Mastuj (% 0943-486034; s/d
explore the glacial valleys spilling down from Rs 1200/1500) This comfortable hotel with char-
the Buni massif. acterless though functional rooms has a de-
The village of Mastuj (2400m) is three cent restaurant. It’s set just outside the village
hours (110km) from Chitral town along a and has gorgeous vistas, but don’t believe the
very rough 4km side road. It’s a good base signs saying ‘PTDC ½km’ at the bottom of the
to break the journey between Chitral and bazaar – it’s more than twice that distance.
Gilgit, and you could easily lose time doing Mastuj also has a comfortable two-room
some lovely day walks in the fields and C&W resthouse, bookable in Chitral. At
side valleys here, always under the snowy Brook Laspur there is the basic Shandur Hotel
gaze of Tirich Mir. You must sign in with (dm/d Rs 50/200) and ultra-basic Qraqrum Hotel &
the police (at the bottom of the bazaar) if Restaurant (dm Rs 40) if you need to stay to catch
staying overnight. transport to Shandur. At Sor Laspur is the
Until 1880 (when the mehtar of Chitral took Shandoor Hotel (dm/d Rs 50/200).
it) Mastuj was the ‘capital’ of the Kushwaqt
state stretching eastwards into Ghizar. A GETTING THERE & AWAY
British garrison confined here during the 1895 There are a couple of jeeps every morning
siege was rescued by the column that crossed between Chitral town and Mastuj (Rs 130, five
the Shandur Pass. The old royal fort stands hours), as well as daily rides to Buni (Rs 45,
next to the Hindu Kush Heights Hotel. 2½ hours). Transport is less frequent to Sor
From the south, Laspur Gol enters Yarkhun Laspur and the Yarkhun Valley. To get over
Gol. Up this canyon are the villages of Gosht the Shandur Pass, Brook Laspur has the best
(6km from the Mastuj turn-off), Harchin transport links (Rs 60 from the petrol pumps
(14km from Gosht), Brook Laspur (2km from at the Mastuj turn-off), or arrange transport
Gosht) and Sor Laspur (sometimes called just from Chitral.
Laspur, 6km from Brook Laspur), and the
road to Shandur Pass, two to three hours by Yarkhun Gol
jeep (42km) from Mastuj. From Mastuj, the Yarkhun Gol stretches
100km northeast, almost to the tip of Chitral.
SLEEPING Along this grand valley lay an important
Mastuj Tourist Guesthouse (%0943-486151; s/d/tr branch of the ancient Silk Road, between
Rs 100/200/300; i) A comfy and welcoming place Kashgar and Afghanistan via the Wakhan
wrapped around a small walled garden, with a corridor and the 3777m Broghil (or Boroghil)
handful of carpeted rooms and cold showers. Pass. The Broghil was also one of several
Food is cooked to order. Hard to miss as it’s passes that stoked British fears of a Russian
the first guesthouse as you drive into Mastuj. invasion in the late 19th century.
The hotel also owns a couple of jeeps that run You’ll need to be self-sufficient to get by in
daily to Chitral. this remote but inspiring landscape. The best
Foreigner Tourist Paradise (%0933-486008; dm/ time to come here is for the Jashan-i-Boroghil
s/d Rs 70/100/200) Signed opposite the Mastuj festival in July (see p222).
 © Lonely Planet Publications
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NORTH-WEST FRONTIER
PROVINCE

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
235

Karakoram Highway
A thin ribbon of asphalt strikes north from near Islamabad and leaves the modern capital and
the dusty Punjab plains far behind. As it weaves through sparse green hills, the first wrinkles
of mountain-building in this geological ‘collision zone’, this unassuming road gives little hint

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
as to what lies ahead. This is the high road to China, the Karakoram Highway (KKH), which
was blasted and bulldozed through an intractable landscape of raging rivers, deep ravines and
precipitous peaks in the 1960s and ’70s. It is a 1200km marvel of engineering and a symbolic
collaboration between Pakistan and China. It is also a magnet for adventure-seekers.

The KKH unites the plains of Pakistan with erstwhile independent mountain kingdoms and
connects South Asia with West and Central Asia. It follows a branch of that ancient network of
trade routes known as the Silk Road, and one of its tricks is time travel. The KKH takes you to
where Buddhism spread to China and Tibet, to the colourful bazaar of Kashgar that remains more
than just a memory of a Silk Road oasis, and to the intrigues of the 19th-century Great Game.
It has also brought the 21st century to the fabled valley of Hunza, and fume-belching trucks
and minibuses have now mostly displaced donkeys and camels as the caravans of trade.

As it traverses northern Pakistan and enters western China, via the 4730m Khunjerab Pass,
the KKH navigates the highest concentration of soaring peaks and long glaciers in the world.
Intrepid travellers are delivered to some of the most awe-inspiring and challenging trekking
they are ever likely to encounter. And for some, this is where the real adventure starts.

HIGHLIGHTS
Unwinding in Karimabad (p299), the heart of
the fabled valley of Hunza and home to the
Kashgar
700-year-old mountain-top Baltit Fort (p300)
Testing your courage and sense of balance on
the Two Bridges walk near the peaceful village
of Passu (p311)
CHINA
Marvelling at the mallet-wielding mayhem
and horsemanship at a polo tournament in
Gilgit (p275) Khunjerab
Pass
Bartering in the colourful bazaars of
Kashgar (p324), former Silk Road oasis Passu
Baltit Fort
and legendary market town Karimabad
Gilgit
Exploring the trails of Baltistan (p284) and
PAKISTAN
beyond, where the Karakoram ruptures Baltistan
from the earth’s crust in an unequalled
display of high peaks and twisting glaciers
Crossing the Khunjerab Pass (p317), a
geographical and cultural watershed, in
a modern replay of an ancient passage
between empires past
 236 K A R A K O R A M H I G H W AY lonelyplanet.com

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY 0
0
100 km
60 miles

See Khunjerab Pass to

KYRGYZSTAN Kashgar Map (p317) Kashgar
Sa Shufu
ry Shule
ko Upal
l Tassutan

P
The external boundaries of Pakistan

am
& India on this map have not been Yengisar
authenticated and may not be correct. Ghez

ir
KKH
Bulunkul CHINA
Kongur
(7719m)
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Kara
314 Kul
Muztagh Ata
(7546m)

TAJIKISTAN

Tashkurgan
XINJIANG
AUTONOMOUS
REGION
Davdar

AFGHANISTAN
Boroghil Pass Pirali
(3777m)
Lasht Zood Khun Dih KKH
Khunjerab
HINDUKUSH Kampir Dior Pass
(7168m)
See Gilgit Region Map (p264) Dakrot Pass Afiyatabad (Sost) Qarun Koh
(7164m)
Ultar II
(7388m) Passu Shimshal
Gulmit Khunjerab
Yasin Karimabad
Buni Mastuj National
Gupis Aliabad Ganish Park See Gojal & Khunjerab
Tirich Mir Teru Chalt Minapin
(7760m) Sor Borsat Sherqila Ghulmet
Pass Map (p308)
K

Laspur Gakuch Hisp

Hun

Phander ar G K2
A

Shandur Rakaposhi l
Central A (8611m)
R

Pass (7788m)
za

NORTHERN Ri Karakoram K
O
Bi

Chitral AREAS Gilgit ve National

r R
afo

Sassi Park AM
Gl

Gl
See Indus Kohistan Baltoro
Map (p257) Bunji
Askole Masherbrum
Drosh Paiju (7821m)
Kalam Shatial Indus r RA
ve NG
Sazin Ri Kachura Shigar E
Lowari Pass H Lake Hushe
Chilas KK Astor Skardu Baltistan
Dir Dasu Satpara Khaplu
Madyan Nanga Gol
Komila Parbat
Lake
Babusar
Pass (8125m) See Baltistan Map (p285)
Shangla 35 Pattan
Khwazakhela Pass Burzil
Timargarha (2134m) Besham Naran Pass Deosai
Mingora Banna Plains
trol
Saidu Thakot Kaghan Line Con
Sharif of
Balakot In
Malakand N O R T H - W E S T du
sR
KK

FRONTIER ive
H

PROVINCE See Kaghan Valley r

Mansehra
Muzaffarabad Map (p252)
Mardan Tarbela Thandiani
Reservoir Abbottabad Nathiagali
Srinagar Photaksar
Havelian Ayubia Za
Grand Nowshera
Trun Haripur National Park Pahalgam R an s k
k Murree ng ar
Rd e
Attock Taxila
Punch INDIA
ISLAMABAD
Rawalpindi Zanskar
PUNJAB AZAD
JAMMU & Kashmir Padum
See Hazara KASHMIR
Map (p245)
P
Gr
rway

ir Ra

Naoshera
an
d

Tru
P ge
Moto

nk HIMACHAL
an
n
ja

PRADESH
Rd

l
lonelyplanet.com K A R A K O R A M H I G H W AY • • H i s t o r y 237

History resources policing the road. Among the tribes

Spanning some of the most rugged and re- driven south by the Han were the Yüeh-chih
mote mountains in the world, the KKH region (or Kushans) who, by the 1st century AD, con-
is held together by several historical currents. trolled an empire spanning Kashgar, most of
These are the Silk Road and the spread of the Karakoram, the Hindukush and northern
Buddhism; the arrival of Islam; imperial India. Under the Kushan dynasty, centred in
struggles, particularly the ‘Great Game’ be- Gandhara, Buddhism experienced an artistic
tween Britain and Russia; and, of course, the and intellectual flowering and spread up the
Highway itself. Indus into Central Asia, China and Tibet. The
Silk Road became as much a cultural artery as
a commercial one.

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
THE SILK ROAD & THE FLOWERING OF
BUDDHISM Buddhism left an extraordinary record
Buddhism spread throughout the northern in western China and northern Pakistan
subcontinent under the charismatic (and that can be seen while travelling along the
last) Mauryan king, Ashoka (272–232 BC), KKH: the cave frescoes of San Xian outside
whose excesses in war led to his conversion Kashgar; the petroglyphs at Shatial, Chilas
and active patronage of the new philoso- and Ganish; and the bas-relief Buddhas near
phy. Soon after Ashoka’s death, however, the Gilgit and Skardu.
region descended into chaos with several
invasions from Central Asia and a recur- THE ADVENT OF ISLAM & THE DECLINE OF
ring Hindu backlash. Meanwhile, the Han THE SILK ROAD
dynasty in China was pushing its frontiers Although an Arab expedition reached Kashgar
west and south over a growing network of in the 8th century, the earliest conversions to
trade routes that later came to be called the Islam in the Tarim Basin were by rulers of the
Silk Road. Qarakhan dynasty in the 12th century. Today
From the early Han capital of Chang’an most non-Chinese there are Sunni Muslims.
(now Xian), a line of oases skirted north Almost simultaneously with the 8th-century
and south around the Taklamakan Desert to Central Asia explorations, an Arab naval
Kashgar. From there, tracks ran west across force arrived at the mouth of the Indus, but
the Pamir and Turkestan (Central Asia) to likewise left little religious imprint. It wasn’t
Persia (Iran), Iraq and the Mediterranean, until the 11th century that Islam began to
and south across the Karakoram to Kashmir. establish itself in this region. Muslim Turkic
Caravans went west with porcelain, silk, tea, raiders from Afghanistan, led by the warlord
spices and seeds of peach and orange, and Mahmud of Ghazni, battered the Indus Valley
brought back wool, gold, ivory, jewels and in the early 11th century. Conversion to Islam
European delicacies such as figs and walnuts – was widespread, for pragmatic as much as
as well as new ideas. spiritual reasons.
Bandits from Mongolia, Tibet and the little In the early 13th century the Mongol ar-
Karakoram state of Hunza made these expedi- mies of Genghis Khan had subdued Central
tions dangerous, and Han emperors spent vast Asia and had began raiding south into the

TRAVELLING SAFELY ON (& OFF) THE KARAKORAM HIGHWAY (KKH)

The towns and villages along the KKH, particularly in the Northern Areas (NA), are among the
safest and most hospitable in Pakistan. Whether you enter from China or Punjab, you will keenly
feel the relaxed and outgoing nature of the people here. Nevertheless, there are a few issues
of which to be aware.
Avoid any travel at night, particularly in northern Hazara and Indus Kohistan; buses have oc-
casionally been robbed at night on the KKH from Thakot as far south as Mansehra.
Indus Kohistan, away from the KKH, is fairly lawless and communities can be very suspicious
of outsiders. On top of having a reputation for anarchy, many local men have skewed ideas
about foreign women. Do not to go into the hills alone, and check with the local chief of police
or district officer of the Frontier Constabulary before exploring beyond the Highway, especially
between Shatial and Pattan.
 238 K A R A K O R A M H I G H W AY • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com

subcontinent. With the largest contiguous over Russia’s presence in the region. The
land empire in history, cleared of bandits new political agent was Captain Algernon
and boundaries by the Mongols, the Silk Durand, who believed that to counter foreign
Road enjoyed a last burst of activity into the influence in India all its frontier tribes would
14th century. Europeans, now forced to take eventually have to be subjugated or bought
note of Asian power, also took an interest in off. He carried on his own foreign policy in
Asia; Marco Polo made (or made up) his epic the area, invading Hunza in 1891 and trying
journeys during this time. The subsequent unsuccessfully to subdue Chilas in 1892–93.
eclipse of the Silk Road has been variously In 1935 Britain leased back the entire Agency
attributed to the arrival of Islam, the col- from Kashmir and raised a local militia, the
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

lapse of the Mongols, and the drying up of Gilgit Scouts.

oasis streams. At Partition in 1947 Maharaja Hari Singh,
The final nail in the Silk Road’s cof- hoping for his own independence, stalled for
fin was the discovery in 1497 of a sea route two months before finally acceding to India.
from Europe around Africa to India by the Gilgit and the surrounding valleys rose in re-
Portuguese navigator Vasco da Gama. By this volt (see the boxed text, p275) and demanded
time the entire region now spanned by the to join Pakistan. India and Pakistan then went
KKH was Muslim, but it was in total disar- to war over Kashmir.
ray, fractured by quarrelling remnants of the In the UN ceasefire that followed, Pakistan
Mongol empire in the north, petty chieftains in got temporary control over what is now the
the mountains, successors of the 14th-century Northern Areas (NA), plus a slice of western
invader from Central Asia, Tamerlane Kashmir. The resulting closure of the Burzil
(Timur), and Pashtun tribes in the south. Pass left only the Babusar Pass linking the
NA to the rest of Pakistan until around 40
THE BRITISH, PARTITION & THE years ago, when construction began on the
NORTHERN AREAS KKH and Pakistan International Airlines
In 1846 the British annexed the Sikh ter- (PIA) began flights. The two countries went
ritories of Kashmir, Ladakh, Baltistan and to war again in 1965 and 1971, and peri-
the Gilgit-Hunza basin. Packaging them up odically skirmish over Siachen Glacier in
as the State of Jammu & Kashmir, they sold eastern Baltistan.
them to the Hindu prince Gulab Singh and Pakistan’s official position is that until
declared him the first Maharaja of Kashmir. a vote by the people of Kashmir (as speci-
Then Britain discovered Russia snooping fied in the 1947 ceasefire terms) is held,
in the Pamir and Afghanistan. In 1877 a Kashmir doesn’t belong to anyone. This
British political agent arrived to look over leaves the NA in limbo, because making it a
the Kashmiri governor’s shoulder. The ar- province would concede the status quo of a
rangement proved awkward and the British divided Kashmir.
Agency was closed after a few years – only to In 1969 the residual autonomy of former
reopen in 1889 as Britain’s anxiety mounted ministates like Hunza and Nagyr was abol-

ISLAM ALONG THE KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Today people as far north on the KKH as Chilas are all Sunni Muslims, and more fervently
so than their Kashgar counterparts. Alternative doctrines appear to have come to the north-
ern mountains much later. In the 16th century, Taj Mughal, ruler of Badakhshan in northeast
Afghanistan, seized Chitral and Gilgit, and is credited with bringing Ismailism to the region.
From Kashmir, Shiite Islam moved into Baltistan at perhaps the end of the 16th century, and
from there into Bagrot, Haramosh and Hunza-Nagyr in the 17th century. Hunza and Gojal, Shiite
at first, adopted Ismailism in the 19th century. Even today a few old carved Shiite mosques
can be seen there, in sharp contrast to the spanking green-and-white jamaat khanas (Ismaili
community halls).
A separate Shiite branch, called Nurbakhshi, persists in Baltistan’s upper valleys, with its own
doctrinal variations. While generally conservative, they are noticeable (eg in Khaplu) because,
like the Ismailis, the women are not veiled in public.
lonelyplanet.com K A R A K O R A M H I G H W AY • • Pe o p l e 239

ished. Now they’re all governed by the 24- the Khunjerab Pass was opened to official
member Northern Areas Council, headed by traffic and cross-border trade. On 1 May 1986
a federally appointed chief executive. The gov- the Khunjerab Pass and the road to Kashgar
ernment is generous with development money were opened to tourism.
and levies no direct taxes, but Northerners The workforce in Pakistan at any one time
cannot, for example, vote in national elec- was about 15,000 Pakistani soldiers and be-
tions. Having fought to join Pakistan, many tween 9000 and 20,000 Chinese, working
now feel excluded. separately. Landslides, savage summer and
Nevertheless, the region has acquired many winter conditions, and accidents claimed 400
of the political features of a province. Northern to 500 lives on the Pakistani side of the bor-
Areas Council members are all locally elected der, roughly one for every 1.5km of roadway

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
and can now campaign on the basis of political (though some claim the Chinese took away
party affiliation. They in turn elect the deputy many more dead than they admitted). The
chief executive, with the rank of a minister of highest toll was in Indus Kohistan.
state in Pakistan. On his/her advice, the chief Few statistics are available about work on
executive appoints four advisers with the rank the Chinese side. Crews there were a mixture
of provincial ministers. of soldiers, convicts and paid volunteers with
nothing but picks and shovels, hauling rocks
THE KARAKORAM HIGHWAY and dirt on shoulder-poles.
Following its invasion of Tibet in 1950, China Maintenance is a huge and endless job. The
occupied parts of Ladakh, Baltistan and the mountains continually try to reclaim the road,
upper Shimshal Valley in the mid-1950s. All assisted by earthquakes, encroaching glaciers
traffic across the border stopped. While the and the Karakoram’s typical crumbling slopes.
Chinese border with Indian-held Kashmir Rockfalls and floods are routine, and travel is
is still in dispute today, a thaw in China– inherently unpredictable.
Pakistan relations in 1964 led to a border
agreement, China’s return of 2000 sq km of People
territory, and talk of linking the two countries The KKH region’s invaders and traders have
by road. left behind a kaleidoscopic array of peoples
In 1966 the two countries embarked on one that have evolved distinct languages, cus-
of the biggest engineering projects since the toms and gene pools in their largely isolated
Pyramids: a two-lane, 1200km road across valleys. This variety is one of the things that
some of the highest mountains in the world, makes KKH travel so absorbing. Nearly
the Pamir and the Karakoram, from Kashgar everybody is Muslim, but in an equally di-
in China to Havelian in Pakistan. Much of the verse patchwork of Sunni, Shiite, Ismaili and
KKH would traverse terrain that until then Nurbakhshi variants.
had barely allowed a donkey track. It was to Pashto-speaking Pashtuns inhabit the KKH
be 20 years before it was fully open. well down into Hazara, along with speakers of
Pakistan had already started a road of its Hindko and other Punjabi dialects. Kohistanis
own in 1960, the 400km Indus Valley Rd are thought to be Shins, descendants of in-
between Swat and Gilgit. This and a road vaders from the lower Indus Valley at least
north from Havelian were completed in 1968 1000 years ago, who were converted to Islam
and linked by a bridge at Thakot. Between by Pashtun crusaders from the 14th century
then and 1973, Pakistani crews worked north onwards. Kohistani speech is a mixture of
from the Indus, while the Chinese cut a road Shina, Pashto, Urdu and Persian.
over the Khunjerab Pass to Gulmit, as well Gilgit, the region’s historical trading hub,
as north from the Khunjerab to Kashgar. is a melting pot of peoples from all over
All of the nearly 100 bridges encoun- Central and South Asia that sometimes boils
tered from the Khunjerab to Thakot were over with ethnic and religious tensions. Its
originally Chinese-built. dominant language is Shina, also spoken
Chinese workers departed in early 1979, around Nanga Parbat and down the Indus
and later that year the KKH was declared to Chilas and beyond. Up the catchments of
complete in Pakistan. In August 1982 the the Gilgit and Ghizar Rivers is a mixture of
Highway was formally inaugurated, the NA Burusho, Shina speakers and Pashtuns. Some
were opened to tourism as far as Passu, and Chitralis are here too, speaking Khowar, an
 240 K A R A K O R A M H I G H W AY • • C l i m a t e lonelyplanet.com

THE GUJARS
Gujars (pronounced gu-jr), descended from the landless poor of lowland Pakistan and India, eke
out an existence as nomadic herders. In May and June they drive their cows, yaks, sheep or goats
into the high meadows of the lower NA (roughly as far north as Gilgit) and southern North-West
Frontier Province (NWFP). They sell a few animals when they need to buy supplies and then de-
scend in September and October. They are a common sight on and off the KKH at these times,
moving beside the road in long files of animals and people, or camped outside towns. They winter
on marginal land, often on the dry riverbeds, seldom associating with local people.
Though Sunni Muslims, they are considered low-caste by many, even in nominally caste-free
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Pakistan. They rarely marry non-Gujars. Gujar women do not observe purdah (the wearing of a veil),
and on the KKH south of Gilgit they may be the only women whose faces you ever glimpse. Gujars
near Gilgit speak Shina, while those closer to the Shandur Pass and in Chitral speak Khowar.

Indic language. In the other direction from extremely arid all year long, with a trace of
Gilgit is Baltistan, whose mainly Tibetan peo- rain in summer.
ple speak a classical form of Tibetan. From Gilgit to Kashgar, winter is long and
The people of Gojal are mainly Tajiks, origi- cold (often well below freezing), especially in
nally from Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor January and February, and snow closes many
and speaking Wakhi, a form of Persian. high passes, including the Khunjerab.
The Burusho of southern Gojal, the Hunza
Valley and Upper Nagyr speak Burushaski, a National Parks
language whose origins continue to mystify The KKH runs through the Khunjerab
scholars. The people of Lower Nagyr have National Park and you will have to pay a
similar roots but speak mostly Shina, the lan- US$4 fee (or the equivalent in rupees) for the
guage of Gilgit. privilege. For details on this park’s founding
Uyghurs are predominant from the and conservation credentials, as well as back-
Khunjerab Pass to Kashgar, plus there are ground to other parks in the region, see p68.
large rural populations of Tajiks, Kyrgyz and
Kazakhs, each sharing ancestry, language and Language
customs with communities in Central Asia, Travelling along the KKH is like passing
Iran and (in the case of Tajiks) Pakistan. In through half a dozen tiny countries. In ad-
Kashgar you will see the occasional descend- dition to the two national languages of Urdu
ant of White Russians. And, of course, Han and Mandarin Chinese, there are at least seven
Chinese entrepreneurs and administrators are other common tongues, from three different
everywhere on the China side. linguistic families. Persian is also understood
to some extent throughout the region.
Climate Prominent local languages are Khowar or
The most pleasant temperatures for KKH Chitrali (Ishkoman, Yasin and Ghizar), Pashto
travel are in May, June, September and (Besham and northern Hazara), Kohistani
October. July and August get uncomfortably (Indus Kohistan), Shina (spoken around
hot along most of the KKH, except in high- Gilgit and in the Indus Valley from Chilas to
altitude trekking zones. Lower Nagyr), Burushaski (spoken in Yasin,
In northern Pakistan the wettest months Hunza and Upper Nagyr), Wakhi (Gojal and
are during the monsoon, from late July Tashkurgan) and Uyghur (Kashgar). See p239
to early September, with random sum- for more about the ethnic mix along the KKH,
mer storms from Hunza southwards, and and the Language chapter for a list of useful
steady rain and high humidity from Indus words and phrases.
Kohistan and the Kaghan Valley southwards.
These monsoonal regions are also sporadi- Dangers & Annoyances
cally drizzly from December to March. TRAVEL IN INDUS KOHISTAN
The driest months are May and June and Indus Kohistan, off the Highway, is a pretty
mid-September to November, with the lawless place. You should seek advice from
clearest skies in autumn. Xinjiang remains the police at Dasu, Komila, Pattan or Besham
lonelyplanet.com K A R A K O R A M H I G H W AY • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A r o u n d 241

before heading up any of Kohistan’s side val- Moral of the story: don’t cross a rockfall hop-
leys. See the boxed text, p237. ing to find transport on the other side; the
whole road is probably littered with rocks,
SECTARIAN VIOLENCE AROUND GILGIT with more to come. Go back and wait for
The NA is one of the safest parts of Pakistan, the mountainsides to settle and the roads to
but in 1988 Sunni–Shiite tension erupted in be cleared.
gun battles in the valleys around Gilgit, leaving
at least 100 dead. There were smaller incidents UNREST IN XINJIANG
in the following years, but electoral reforms In early 1997 somewhere between 10 and 100
in 1994 pacified the religious rabble-rousers people died in riots in Yining, about 400km
(who were elected to comfortable positions), at west of Ürümqi (the capital of Xinjiang),

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
which point the violence abruptly subsided. while more bombs exploded in Ürümqi, in
No foreigners were ever injured, but the Qorla (east of Kashgar) and on a Beijing bus.
KKH has sprouted police checkpoints where The Chinese government’s response was swift
foreigners must sign a register. Many sign false and ruthless, with Uyghur sources claiming
names for the fun of it, though the logbooks thousands of executions. As a result there has
have apparently been used to help embassies hardly been a dent in regional tourism, and
find their nationals in emergencies. there appears to be no danger for visitors.
In August 2003 there were violent protests Since 2001 it appears that China has taken
in Skardu triggered by disagreements between advantage of the West’s ‘war on terrorism’
local Shiite leaders over the syllabus taught at to continue to exert its will over Xinjiang’s
schools. And in January 2005, 11 people died Islamic populace.
in violent clashes following a shooting attack
on a Shiite leader. If you are ever caught in Getting There & Around
such circumstances, the advice is to retreat to The nominal southern end of the KKH is at
your hotel and stay out of sight of the mob. Havelian in Pakistan’s NWFP, but in practice
it’s at Islamabad or Rawalpindi. Islamabad has
ROCKFALL a limited number of direct international air
Rockfall hazard on the KKH, side roads in- connections, including Kashgar, plus others
cluding the Gilgit to Skardu road, and on all via Lahore and Karachi (see p86).
valley footpaths rises sharply during rainy You can reach the KKH by train from
weather. Walkers and cyclists should simply all over Pakistan. Most trains to the capital
find something else to do. Rockfall on the area go to Rawalpindi’s Saddar Bazaar sta-
Highway may ruin your plans, but it can do tion (p87), and a spur of the Rawalpindi to
far worse. During the research for this book Peshawar line runs to Havelian. The best bet
we were caught in a downpour while on the from Lahore is to take one of the air-con bus
Chapursan Valley road and witnessed rocks services to Rawalpindi.
larger than our jeep come hurtling down into The northern end of the KKH is at Kashgar
the river beside the road; thankfully we were in China’s Xinjiang Autonomous Region.
on the opposite side of the river. A letter from Kashgar is linked by air to Islamabad and
one traveller describes a harrowing day on the via the provincial capital, Ürümqi, to major
KKH between Karimabad and Gulmit. Chinese cities and other international points.
Overland, Kashgar is linked by bus and train
A local driver said it was just a matter to Ürümqi, from where railway lines run to
of scrambling across the rockfall and Chinese cities and to Almaty in Kazakhstan.
boarding transport on the other side. Warm-weather roads cross the Torugart Pass
But there wasn’t any, so he and his between Kashgar and Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan,
companions decided to continue on and across the Irkeshtam Pass to Osh, also in
foot. Soon rocks were falling around Kyrgyzstan, and an all-weather road runs be-
them, and they spent six hours liter- tween Ürümqi and Almaty.
ally cheating death, sometimes hug- Domestic transport in Pakistan to/from
ging the wall, sometimes being forced Islamabad, and to/from Kashgar in China, is
down to the rising river. At one point covered in detail in the Transport chapter and
a 5m rock smashed to the road just a within the Getting There & Away sections of
metre from one of them. the respective cities.
 242 K A R A K O R A M H I G H W AY lonelyplanet.com

CYCLING KASHGAR TO ISLAMABAD

These notes are presented from north to south because cycling in that direction prolongs the
good weather in the best travelling season, which is September and October. An alternative route
over the Babusar Pass and through the Kaghan Valley is described on p255.
For information on bringing bicycles into China, see p385. For more information on equipment,
safety and security on the KKH, see p392.

KASHGAR TO KHUNJERAB PASS

Food is scarce between Kashgar and Tashkurgan and between Tashkurgan and Sost. Water is
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

scarce on the Kashgar plain, and between Kara Kul and the Khunjerab Pass. Checkpoints make
good overnight stops, and it’s possible to stay in private homes.

Kashgar to Ghez, about 120km

Overall, the road south from Kashgar is fairly level for 80km, before climbing steeply to Ghez.
Upal, about 50km from Kashgar, has fruit, samosas and other snacks. The Ghez checkpoint has
basic food and accommodation.

Ghez to Kara Kul, about 70km

Above Ghez the road climbs steeply for 40km through a canyon where landslides may block the
road during rainstorms. Travellers exploring the sand dune area at the top of the canyon have been
warned off by mounted police. From there it’s gradually uphill, then steep for a few kilometres
to Kara Kul lake, where there are a couple of resorts, yurt accommodation and camping.

Kara Kul to Tashkurgan, about 100km

The 30km rising road to the Subash Plateau (at about 4000m the second-highest point on the KKH)
is a long grind but not outrageously steep for most of the way. About 60km from Kara Kul is the
abandoned Kekyor checkpoint. A truck stop perches on the steep climb south out of the Tagharma
Basin. Tashkurgan is the only place between Kashgar and Sost that has real restaurants.

Tashkurgan to Pirali, about 100km

Over recent years the Chinese have (again) not allowed cyclists to cycle between Tashkurgan and
the Khunjerab Pass, insisting cyclists put their bike onto the roof of a bus. However, the situation
could always change. The bumpy road goes slightly downhill before rising towards the Pirali
checkpoint. Cyclists have spent the night at the settlement of Davdar, which also has a truck
stop. Soldiers at Pirali, about 45km from Davdar, might let you stay the night.

Pirali to Khunjerab Pass, about 40km

A gradually increasing grade, quite steep by the time you near the top. Altitude becomes the
major challenge as you approach the pass.

KHUNJERAB PASS TO HUNZA

Food, water and accommodation are plentiful beyond Sost and the road is wide and paved. There
are no major climbs southbound. Your Chinese bus driver may allow you to hop off the bus on the
Pakistani side and ride down to Sost. The Pakistani officials are usually very relaxed about this.

Khunjerab Pass to Sost, 85km

The road on the Pakistan side twists itself into switchbacks for 17km before descending steeply to
Dih, about 50km from the top. From there it’s a gentle descent to Sost. Abandoned KKH work camps
make camping spots, and Dih has a national park resthouse where you can pitch a tent.

Sost to Passu, about 40km

A gentle downhill ride. There are basic hotels with hot showers at Gircha (a few kilometres south of
Sost) and Morkhun, about 12km from Sost. Khyber, about 20km from Sost, has a village guesthouse
and a basic inn. Passu’s dilapidated Batura Inn has a ‘rumour’ book with cyclists’ comments.
lonelyplanet.com K A R A K O R A M H I G H W AY 243

Passu to Gulmit, 16km

Sharp climbs include the 4km ascent from Passu south to Yashvandan.

Gulmit to Ganish, 34km

The road is fairly level but often plagued with rockfall damage. Karimabad is a steep 2km climb
on a link road a few kilometres west of Ganish. Ganish, Aliabad (5km southwest of Ganish) and
Murtazaabad (a further 8km along the Highway) have local hotels.

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
HUNZA TO GILGIT
Ganish to Pisan (Minapin turn-off ), about 25km
From the bridge over the Hunza River it’s an unpaved 3km to the recommended Diran Hotel at
Minapin, with a steep down-and-up at Minapin Nala (nala is Urdu for tributary canyon).

Pisan to Chalt turning, about 25km

There is food and shelter at Ghulmet Nala, about 5km west of Pisan (2km from Minapin). Chalt
is about 4km off the KKH, and has simple accommodation.

Chalt turn-off to Gilgit, about 55km

Basic food and charpoys (simple beds made of ropes knotted together on a wooden frame) are
available at Jaglot Guar, about 14km from the Chalt turning. The shortest route into Gilgit from
the north is via a tunnel and two suspension bridges (turn off the KKH at Dainyor).

GILGIT REGION
Gilgit is 10km off the KKH. Most people cycling the KKH start or finish here, avoiding the head-
aches of Indus Kohistan.
Gilgit to Shatial has no long climbs in either direction, but lots of lung-busters under
4km long. There is a significant risk of dehydration and heatstroke between Raikot Bridge
and Shatial.

Gilgit to Raikot Bridge, 80km

Jaglot, about 20km south of Gilgit, has serais (cheap travellers’ inns) and a small hotel. The best
overnight stop between Gilgit and Chilas is the scenic Northern Areas Public Works Department
(NAPWD) resthouse at Talechi, about 62km from Gilgit; book it with the NAPWD chief engineer
(%05811-50307) in Gilgit, or camp out in the garden. Don’t count on finding food there. There’s
an expensive hotel at Raikot Bridge.

Raikot Bridge to Chilas, 54km

Gonar Farm, about 25km from Raikot Bridge, has one or two serais. At several slide-zones, the
road can be potholed, bumpy or washed out. There are several tourist hotels on the KKH at Chilas.
Three kilometres before Chilas is the upgraded road following Thak Nala to Babusar Pass. When
completed, this will no doubt become the route of choice for cyclists (and other traffic). See the
boxed text on p255 for a description of the route.

Chilas to Shatial, 62km

Shatial has a basic inn where some cyclists have been turned away and a primitive resthouse
where you may sleep on the veranda.

INDUS KOHISTAN
Cyclists, with expensive gear and skintight clothing that may offend orthodox Muslims, are espe-
cially vulnerable in Indus Kohistan. There are unverified stories of assaults, though cyclists mostly

(Continued on page 244)

 244 HA Z A R A lonelyplanet.com

(Continued from page 243)

report petty theft and stone-throwing kids, mainly south of Dasu. Camping near police or army
installations is comforting and pleasant.

Shatial to Dasu, 63km

This stretch has no major climbs or descents. Sumer Nala, about 30km downriver from Shatial, is
a small truck stop with food and charpoys. The Pakistan Tourist Development Corporation (PTDC)
has a motel at Barsin, 15km north of Dasu, and Dasu boasts a few pleasant hotels.
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Dasu to Besham, about 80km

The road climbs high on the canyon wall, with lots of ups and downs. Resthouses and basic
food are at Kayal Valley, Pattan and Dubair Valley, respectively about 30km, 40km and 60km
south of Dasu.

HAZARA
The KKH is wide and paved, but from Mansehra south, traffic is heavy and drivers are reckless.

Besham to Chattar Plain, about 70km

As the KKH climbs out of the Indus Valley at Thakot, 28km south of Besham, the road is vulnerable
to slides. Batagram is about 20km up from Thakot. The road climbs for 16km beyond this to a
1670m pass at Sharkul, and then drops for several kilometres into Chattar Plain.

Chattar Plain to Mansehra, about 50km

It’s downhill most of the way to Mansehra. There is cheap food along the road south of Shinkiari.
An alternative route is on the back road that strikes east from the KKH at Batal to Dadar, and
from there south to Shinkiari.

Mansehra to Hasan Abdal, about 100km

From Mansehra it’s about 30km to Abbottabad, with an overall rise of about 200m. In the 15km
from Abbottabad to Havelian the KKH plunges almost 500m. South of Havelian the road is flat
for 60km to Hasan Abdal.

RAWALPINDI & ISLAMABAD

The flat 50km or so from Hasan Abdal to Rawalpindi is via the Grand Trunk Rd, a high-speed
divided highway that is neither enjoyable nor very safe for cyclists. Alternative routes to Islamabad/
Rawalpindi are a very hilly 200km from Mansehra via Gahri Habibullah, Muzaffarabad and Kohala,
and a steep and hilly 130km or so from Abbottabad via Thandiani and Murree.

HAZARA who defeated local tribes in 1752, and the

Sikhs who wrested it away during the period
Roughly speaking, Hazara is that part of the 1818–24. After the First Sikh War (1846),
North-West Frontier Province (NWFP) east of Major James Abbott came here as a British
the Indus; a series of fertile plains and terraced ‘adviser’ to the Sikhs; on the Sikhs’ defeat
or forested hills rising from north of the Grand in the Second Sikh War (1849) he became
Trunk Rd into the Lesser Himalaya. Today’s Hazara Division’s first deputy commissioner.
Hazara Division consists of the Abbottabad Abbottabad, the divisional headquarters, is
and Mansehra districts, and since the 1970s named after him.
the Kohistan district, reaching west from the Some towns still have the remains of old
Indus into the Hindu Raj mountains. Sikh forts, as well as gurdwaras (Sikh temples)
Southern Hazara was a favourite gateway built in the 20th century. The Sikh popula-
from the plains into Kashmir for expanding tion only evacuated at Partition. The road to
regimes – the Mughals, the Afghan Durranis Kashmir was severed at Partition, and now
lonelyplanet.com HA Z A R A • • H a r i p u r & H a v e l i a n 245

Hazara’s main artery is the KKH, ascending

HAZARA 0
0
20 km
12 miles
for 160km from Havelian to the Indus River
To Chilas (200km);
Gilgit (322km) at Thakot.

Besham HARIPUR & HAVELIAN

To Shangla Banna Haripur %0596 / Havelian %0992
Pass (20km)
Haripur, a dusty and chaotic town 34km
Thakot
north of the Grand Trunk Rd, was once
See Alai Valley Map (p260) Hazara’s ‘capital’. It was founded in 1822
Indus
as the headquarters of the Sikh General
Nand

River Mandu

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Guch
Hari Singh, after whom it’s named. In
ihar R

KKH
Sharkul
1853 the British moved all its administra-
ive

Batagram
tive functions to Abbottabad, and Haripur’s
r

To Naran
Chattar Plain (80km); importance waned.
Babusar Pass
Batal (132km);
Chilas
Half an hour north of Haripur is Havelian,
Dadar
tains

(210km) another nondescript bazaar, with one claim

Balakot to fame: it’s the official southern end of the
Moun

KKH, and there was already a road through to

Abbottabad before the KKH was even an idea.
Shinkiari
Bassain But there is a kind of geographical bound-
Black

ary: from here the road leaps out of the plain

er
Riv into the hills, rising nearly 500m in the 15km
Pakhli
Plain
Altar
to Abbottabad.
Siran

NORTH-WEST Shifa
FRONTIER
PROVINCE
Mansehra Getting There & Away
There are two busy routes north to Haripur
from the Grand Trunk Rd (GT Rd). At Hasan
Thandiani Abdal (p90) there’s a sign welcoming you to
KKH

the KKH although it’s not the official start

of the Highway. The alternative route strikes
north from Taxila. Both routes to Haripur
Abbottabad
suffer heavy truck traffic.
The daily Hazara Express train from/to
Tarbela Rawalpindi (Rs 38) departs Rawalpindi at
Reservoir To Nathiagali (7km);
To Tarbela Havelian Murree (46km) 8.30am (arriving at 12.30pm), and the re-
Dam (24km) turn leg departs Havelian at 10.45am (arriv-
Haripur ing at 2.45pm). Buses to Abbottabad (Rs 7)
or Mansehra (Rs 30) wait outside the train
station. There are also frequent minibuses to
Abbottabad and Mansehra at the other end
of the bazaar.
Khanpur
Lake
To ABBOTTABAD
To Taxila (8km)
Murree
(10km) %0992 / pop 881,000 / elevation 1255m
H ills Abbottabad (ab-it-uh-baad), Hazara’s head-
la
quarters and biggest town, was founded as a
r gal
Ma British garrison town in the 1850s, and the
Margalla shady gardens, church bells and wide streets
Pass ISLAMABAD in the Cantonment evoke the colonial era.
To Taxila Gr
Beside the Cantonment is a compact and
an PUNJAB
(8km) d
Trunk
vibrant bazaar. At 1220m, Abbottabad has
To
M1 Rd a cool climate, and one of the country’s fin-
Rawalpindi
Peshawar est hill-station retreats is an hour away at
M2
To To Thandiani. Southbound cyclists should take
Lahore
Lahore a rest and contemplate the scenic mountain
 246 HA Z A R A • • A b b o t t a b a d lonelyplanet.com

ABBOTTABAD 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
To Mandian (2km);
A B C Pearl Continental (3km); D
Ayub Teaching Hospital (5km);
13 Youth Hostel (5km);
INFORMATION Mansehra (26km)
Abbottabad Online..................1 C4 Circula

KKH
r (Sab
City Money Exchange..........(see 17) ir Shar
if) Rd
1 Conservator of Forests.............2 A3
Muslim Commercial Bank.........3 B4
National Bank...........................4 B5
National Bank...........................5 B4
Pak Telecom Exchange............6 A3 Parade
Ground
Post Office...............................7 B2
PTDC Office............................8 C2
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Iqb

Robz Internet Cafe...............(see 17)

al R

Sarban Internet Cafe................9 C3

Rd

Rd
UBL Bank...............................10 B3 at
d

h
Cantonment
qu

na
Variety Book Stall...................11 B3

Rd
Lia

Jin

Mansehra
d
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

bR
Katchery Rd

Public
Catholic Church.....................12 D3 Library
Clu
2 Commissioner's
Christian Cemetery.................13 B1
Office
Old Sikh Temple....................14 B4 8
Presbyterian Church..............15 D3 Cantonment
24 Public
St Luke's Church....................16 C2 Park
7 16

To Shimla
Peak (3km)
Centr
al Rd
34 Pin
eV
6 iew
Rd 15
11

17 College (Waqaru ll a h) Rd
9
3 10
21
To Thandiani (27km);
To Shimla Peak (3km) 26 Murree (70km)

25
2
27
Mosque 12
Sara
Baza fa
ar
Gum
Meat & Vegetable ani R
d
Market
3 5
Id Ga
h Rd
1 To District Headquarters
Meat & Vegetable 20
ar

Gurd Teaching Hospital (1km);

Rd

w
Baza

Market Bazaaara Ilyasi Mosque (5km);

id

4 r
Rd

Thandiani (27km);
Masj

Main

Murree (70km)
h

23
Jinna

14 35
Jail

City Id Gah Rd
Hall
Rd

District City
Courts Park
SLEEPING
Al Faiz Hotel...................................17 B3
4 Al-Zahra Hotel............................... 18 C6
d)

Bolan Hotel....................................19 C6
ra R

5 New Faisal Hotel............................20 C4

nseh

Pineview Hotel...............................21 C3
(Ma

Ramlina Hotel................................22 C6
Sarban Hotel..................................23 C4
Mall

EATING
The

Mona Lisa Restaurant....................24 C2

New Friends Café...........................25 B3
New Kaghan Café..........................26 B3
Rainbow Café.................................27 B3

Fowara Chowk TRANSPORT

22 29 Coasters to Peshawar.....................28 C6
18
19 Coasters to Rawalpindi.................. 29 C6
6 30 28 Coasters to Rawalpindi.................. 30 C6
32 General Bus Stand..........................31 B6
Minibuses to Mingora (Swat).........32 C6
33 d
nR Minibuses to Murree & Thandiani..33 B6
elia
31 Hav Shimla Peak Suzuki Yard................34 A3
To Havelian (14km); KKH Suzuki Yard....................................35 C4
Rawalpindi (88km)
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels HA Z A R A • • A b b o t t a b a d 247

route via Murree rather than the truck- TELEPHONE

choked KKH. Apart from changing money There are numerous Public Call Offices
for an excursion into the Kaghan Valley (PCOs) in the bazaar.
there’s little reason for other travellers to Pak Telecom Exchange (Pine View Rd; h24hr) Can
make a halt. place overseas calls.
The town has a sizable Christian minor-
ity and three active churches (Presbyterian, TOURIST INFORMATION
Anglican and Catholic). The language of the Conservator of Forests (%9310232; Jail Rd) Can
region is Hindko Punjabi, but you can get book forestry resthouses in Thandiani, Dadar or Kaghan.
by with English and a little Urdu. Pakistan Tourist Development Corporation (PTDC;
%9546275; h9am-3pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Orientation Fri Sep-May) Across from Cantonment Public Park, this is
North of the general bus stand is a round- one of the more friendly and useful PTDC offices. PTDC can
about, Fowara Chowk. Down the right fork help book transportation and tours (eg Kaghan Valley or
is the Mall (Mansehra Rd). The left fork Swat), government resthouses and private accommodation
is Jinnah Rd, running by the bazaar and options in the region.
Cantonment before rejoining the Mall.
Sights & Activities
Information ABBOTTABAD TOWN
BOOKSHOPS
With its orderly tree-lined streets, European
Variety Book Stall (Club Rd) Limited number of English architecture and grand parade ground, the
titles plus stationery.
Cantonment is the town’s historical heart. St
Luke’s Church (cnr Central & Jinnah Rds), near the PTDC,
is as old as the town. A melancholy Christian
INTERNET ACCESS cemetery is 500m up Circular Rd.
There are several internet cafés in town, usually Abbottabad’s other persona is the bazaar, a
open daily from around 9am to midnight. congested quarter of crumbling colonial archi-
Abbottabad Online (AOL; Id Gah Rd; per hr Rs 20) tecture, full of noise, traffic and the smells of
Robz Internet Cafe (Pine View Rd; per hr Rs 20) cooking oil and barbecued meat. In Gurdwara
Sarban Internet Cafe (Jinnah Rd; per hr Rs 20) In a Bazaar (off Jinnah Rd), beneath the arch, is a
relatively quiet location. former gurdwara built in 1943, abandoned at
Partition and now used as municipal offices.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Ayub Teaching Hospital (Mansehra Rd, Mandian) It’s SHIMLA PEAK
5km north of the Mall. The hills cradling Abbottabad are Shimla Peak
District Headquarters Teaching Hospital (Id Gah to the northwest and Sarban Peak to the south.
Rd) East of the Mall. Shimla’s cool, pine-clad summit is woven with
trails and features fine panoramas of the town
MONEY and its surroundings. You can walk up (three
Change money here if you’re heading for steep kilometres) or take a passenger Suzuki
the Kaghan Valley, as no banks in the valley (Rs 5) from upper Pine View Rd; ask for
will do it. Shimla pahari (pa-ree).
City Money Exchange (Pine View Rd, h9am-5pm
Mon-Sat) Will change cash US dollars, euros and ILYASI MOSQUE
UK pounds. This striking mosque, with a complex of spring-
Muslim Commercial Bank (cnr Jinnah & Id Gah Rds) fed bathhouses and pools, is 5km east on the
Cashes travellers cheques and changes cash. Murree road, near Nawan Sheher village. A
National Bank (Jail Rd) Cashes travellers cheques and small bazaar nearby has basic teashops. Catch
changes cash. The main branch is near the courts and a Suzuki (Rs 10 to Rs 20) to Nawan Sheher from
there’s another on Id Gah Rd. the Suzuki stand on Id Gah Rd.
UBL Bank (Pine View Rd) Changes cash (US dollars, euros,
UK pounds) only. Sleeping
BUDGET
POST North of Abbottabad at Mandian, the Pakistan
Post office (cnr Club & Central Rds) Youth Hostel Association (PYHA) hostel is
 248 HA Z A R A • • A b b o t t a b a d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

quite isolated unless you’re cycling or driv- Eating

ing. If you’re not, take a Suzuki to Mandian New Kaghan Café (%340896; cnr Pine View & Jinnah Rds;
from Id Gah Rd. mains Rs 50-120; h10am-11.30pm) This inexpensive
Al-Zahra Hotel (%330155; Fowara Chowk; s/d/tr Rs restaurant is the best option close to the ba-
250/250/350) Next door to the more obvious zaar. Recommended dishes are the chicken
Ramlina Hotel is the almost grandiose but qormaa (yogurt-based curry; Rs 80), mutton
neglected Al-Zahra. Spacious, adequately palak (spinach mutton; Rs 80), chicken tikka
clean rooms and a shady veranda provide a (Rs 55) and fragrant chicken biryani (Rs 65).
lingering colonial air. Hot water is available New Friends Cafe (Jinnah Rd; mains Rs 50-195; h10am-
on request. midnight) This busy curry and chapati eatery has
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Bolan Hotel (% 334395; Fowara Chowk; s/d Rs a small selection of mutton and chicken dishes,
210/300) The worn and rather grubby Bolan such as the ubiquitous mutton karai (mutton
near the general bus stand offers the cheap- braised with vegetables and served bubbling in
est acceptable rooms with hot showers. its own pan; Rs 70). Vegetarians will hopefully
Pineview Hotel (%335555; Jinnah Rd; d Rs 300) The find dhal (Rs 25), but not much else.
Pineview is a fine chaikhana (teahouse) with Rainbow Café (Jinnah Rd) Close to the New
a lively location but it’s a barely satisfactory Friends Cafe and serving up similar food.
hotel. The poky rooms surprisingly boast Mona Lisa Restaurant (%334131; Jinnah Rd; mains
cable TV. Mind your head as you enter. Rs 60-250; h10am-11.30pm) Adjacent to the PTDC
Ramlina Hotel (%334431; Fowara Chowk; s/d/tr in the Cantonment, this bright roadside eatery
Rs 200/350/600) The Ramlina has grotty singles boasts a huge menu of Pakistani, Chinese and
though the bigger rooms get more care. Continental mains plus snacks and barbecue
There’s running hot water and a bare-bones fare. But first ask what is available and fresh.
restaurant, but its best feature is that it is Most of the hotels have restaurants attached
convenient for onward transport. and these range in quality and price from the
New Faisal Hotel (% 334406; The Mall; s/d Rs chaikhana at Pineview Hotel (Jinnah Rd; mains Rs 30-
250/350) The tiny rooms are well kept but 50), with a great balcony to watch life down on
resonate with traffic noise. You’ll find that the street, to the upmarket Nadia (Pearl Continental
other options in the vicinity are not inter- Hotel, Mansehra Rd, Mandian; mains Rs 185-350; h7am-
ested in foreigners. 11pm), with an extensive Chinese, Continental
and Pakistani menu.
MIDRANGE & TOP END West of the bazaar, there are a couple
Al Faiz Hotel (%340896; Pine View Rd; d/tr Rs 1000/1200) of streets dedicated to meat and vegetable
You can be sure of a friendly welcome at Al stalls.
Faiz; however, since our last visit the rooms
have deteriorated, the prices have sky-rocketed
and the restaurant has closed. Shopping
Sarban Hotel (% 331508; fax 334436; The Mall; Hazara embroidery is a local speciality. Small
d Rs 1000-2300; a) The best place to stay in shops in the bazaar have good deals on shawls
town, the Sarban is between the bazaar and and other items.
the Cantonment and close to transport op-
tions. There’s a multicuisine restaurant and Getting There & Away
a travel desk, and the standard rooms are The general bus stand is south of Fowara
clean with TV, fan, bathtubs and limitless Chowk, and nearby are some smaller yards
hot water. dedicated to the numerous minibuses or larger
Pearl Continental (% 334717; fax 334707; KKH/ and more-comfortable Coasters travelling to
Mansehra Rd, Mandian; s/d Rs 3450/4025; a) This is a Thandiani, Rawalpindi and Swat/Peshawar,
poorer cousin of the big bold PCs elsewhere, which leave when full. For Kohistan or the
but it has very comfortable, well-appointed Kaghan Valley, change at Mansehra. You may
rooms and the high-quality Nadia restaurant need to do the same for destinations north
(see Eating right). Breakfast and tax are in- on the KKH. Destinations from Abbottabad
cluded in the tariff. It’s located a couple include the following:
of kilometres north of central Abbottabad Aliabad (Hunza; Rs 750) Silk Route buses and Coasters
in Mandian. Check out the funky bat-cave pass through the general bus stand after originating in
nightclub, Rasalus Café. Rawalpindi, but are often full.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels HA Z A R A • • T h a n d i a n i 249

Gilgit (Rs 750) As for Aliabad. through terraced fields and pine and deodar
Lahore (Rs 200/300 non air-con/air-con, eight hours) forest. Minibuses (Rs 50) leave when full from
Bus to Grand Trunk Rd bus stand. Air-con bus goes to the Fowara Chowk or you could negotiate a spe-
motorway. cial hire of a Suzuki or taxi (Rs 400).
Mansehra (Rs 20, one hour) Minibus.
Mardan (Rs 100, two hours) Most of the Peshawar- and MANSEHRA
Mingora-bound transport stops here en route. %0978 / pop 52,095
Mingora (Swat district; Rs 240, six hours) Bus. Tourists don’t pay much attention to
Murree (Rs 70, five hours) Minibus. Mansehra except to get out and squint at three
Peshawar (Rs 100, three hours) Minibus. Air-con Coasters rocks on the northern outskirts, on which
King Ashoka inscribed a set of edicts over

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
(Rs 120) are worth the small extra expense.
Rawalpindi/Islamabad (Rs 75, 2½ hours) Minibuses 2200 years ago. The bazaar is lively, bearing
leave all day from the general bus stand and next to the traces of the town’s history as a Sikh garri-
Al-Zahra Hotel. More comfortable air-con Coasters (Rs 85) son town in the early 19th century. If you
also go to Rawalpindi from the general bus stand. can tolerate the gridlocked traffic, it’s a great
Thandiani (Rs 50, one hour) Minibus. place for people-watching, with a rich mix
of Pashtuns, Punjabis and Kashmiris. The
Getting Around most common language is Pashto, with some
The yard for passenger Suzukis is down an Hindko Punjabi.
alley east of the Mount View Hotel on Id Gah Mansehra is a major transportation junc-
Rd. They usually clog Id Gah Rd and run up tion for Rawalpindi, Azad Jammu & Kashmir
and down the Mall all day for Rs 5. Taxis will (AJK), the Kaghan and Swat Valleys, and
use the meter if it is demanded, though it is the KKH.
easier to fix a price – about Rs 50 from one
end of town to the other. Orientation
The KKH skirts Mansehra, but local roads,
THANDIANI named for their old destinations – Abbottabad,
%0992 Shinkiari village and Kashmir – converge on
Thandiani (taan-dee-aa-nee), a series of 2700m the bridge in the middle of town. Most buses
forested ridges northeast of Abbottabad, is the use the general bus stand 1.5km north of town,
northernmost of the hill-station retreats called though some local minibuses arrive at the old
the Galis (p90). The air is cool and clean, de- GTS stand south of the bridge. Through buses
velopment is minimal and there are views east may drop you on the KKH near the Ashoka
across the Pir Panjal Range, and north even Rocks; from there it’s a 1km walk into town
to Nanga Parbat in clear weather. Thandiani along Shinkiari Rd.
means ‘cool place’, so bring extra layers. Long
day trips from Abbottabad are possible, or- Information
ganised by the PTDC (see p247). The telephone exchange and post office are
above the bazaar out on Kashmir Rd. The po-
Sleeping & Eating lice can be found in the Sikh Fort nearby. The
Far Pavilions Hotel (tents/d Rs 300/400) This little hotel National Bank, above and behind Kashmir
at the bus terminus has two doubles as well as Bazaar, changes cash and travellers cheques.
tents in summer. It may also offer cheaper char- Internet cafés, such as Hazara Internet Café (per
poys (rope beds) or camping sites. Bookings hr Rs 20), are not very reliable.
can be made through the PTDC (p247) or
the travel desk at the Sarban Hotel (p248) in Sights
Abbottabad. A café and pakora (deep-fried ASHOKA ROCKS
vegetable) shops are open in summer. On the north side of town is Mansehra’s
A Communications & Works (C&W) rest- tourist attraction, three granite boulders on
house and forestry resthouse here are rarely which 14 edicts were engraved by order of
available, but inquire at Abbottabad PTDC. the Mauryan king Ashoka in the 3rd century
BC. Appalled by the destruction wreaked by
Getting There & Away his military campaigns, Ashoka converted to
Thandiani is an hour’s ride from Abbottabad Buddhism and tried to dictate a new moral-
on a winding road beside the Kalapani River, ity based on piety, moderation, tolerance and
 250 HA Z A R A • • M a n s e h r a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

respect for life. He was greatly revered, but

his reforms (and his empire) didn’t last much
MANSEHRA 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles

longer than he did. The inscriptions have A B

done better, but they too are fading away; INFORMATION
despite the shelters, the ancient Karoshthi Hazara Internet Café................1 A3
National Bank..........................2 A3
script is now almost impossible to see. The 1 To General Bus Post Office...............................3 B3
rocks uphill are better than the one below Stand (1km); Telephone Exchange................4 B3

wy
Besham (122km);

H
the road. Gilgit (444km)

ram
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Ashoka Rocks.......................... 5 A2

ako
Ashoka Rocks.......................... 6 A2

Kar
FORMER SIKH TEMPLE (LIBRARY) Former Sikh Temple (Library)....7 B3
Sikh Fort...................................8 B3
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Up Kashmir Rd is the three-storey Gurdwara

To Kaghan
Siri Guru Singh Saba, a pastiche of colours and Valley (50km); SLEEPING
Muzaffarabad Errum Hotel.............................9 A3
styles. Built in 1937 as a gurdwara, it’s now Bypass to (50km)
Taj Mahal.............................. 10 A4
Abbottabad &
the Mansehra Municipal Library (h8am-1pm Mon- Rawalpindi Zam Zam Hotel...................... 11 A4
Sun, women only Mon). The ornate interior hasn’t 2 12 TRANSPORT
been altered much. 6 Bus Stop (Through Buses)......12 A2
Local Minibus Stand...............13 B4
Suzuki Stand..........................14 A3
5 Suzukis to General Bus Stand..15 A3
SIKH FORT
Up a laneway 300m past the library is a fort, To Kaghan Valley (50km);
Muzaffarabad (50km)
built in the early 19th century by Sikh gover- Cemetery

nor general Man Singh (after whom Mansehra

2
is named), and rebuilt by the British after the 4 3

Second Sikh War and the annexation of the 14

Sikh state. It now houses a police office and a 3

jail. Very few traces of the original mud-and- 1 Old Town 8
rock structure can be seen inside. 9
Cinema

BAZAARS 15 7
ir Rd

Shinkiari and Kashmir Rds curve round a hill, Mosque Sh

in
Kashmir
sh m

kia Bazaar
with Kashmir Bazaar sprawled across the top, riRd
Ka

its narrow lanes in semipermanent shadow. 11

Across the bridge along Jaffar Rd is the smaller, Ab

d

bo
rR

tta
older Neelam (or Jerah) Bazaar. 4 ba
Jaffa

10 dR
d
Neelam 13
Mosque
(or Jerah)
Sleeping Bazaar
To KKH (400m);
Zam Zam Hotel (%305127; off Shinkiari Rd; s/d Rs Karakuram Hotel (1km);
Abbottabad (26km);
100/130, s/d with toilet Rs 150/180) Small, passably Rawalpindi (128km)

clean rooms have hot showers and there’s a

restaurant on site. It’s hidden away, 50m west to stay, with clean though rather solemn
of the bridge. rooms and capable management. Aimed at
Errum Hotel (%300245; Shinkiari Rd; s/d Rs 350/650; tour groups, there is a recommended restau-
a) The Errum has clean, good-value dou- rant, and the only drawback is that it is 1km
bles with hot shower, TV and phone. There’s south of town, well away from the general
a rooftop patio plus very welcoming hosts. bus stand.
On the downside, the singles have very tiny
bathrooms and there are only two rooms Eating
with air-con. Abbottabad Rd food is cheap and good.
Taj Mahal (%306505; Abbottabad Rd; s/d Rs 450/850) Little cafés serve braised mutton, chapli ke-
The friendly Taj Mahal boasts clean rooms babs (spicy mutton burgers), omelettes and
with hot showers, cable TVs and some even thick northern-style noodle soup. There are
have a fridge. Rooms vary in size so it’s worth enough vegetable and fruit stalls to keep
inspecting a few before committing. There’s a vegetarians going.
simple restaurant on site. The town’s best restaurants are in the ho-
Karakuram Hotel (%302579; fax 303165; KKH; s/ tels. Recommended are the budget Taj Mahal
d/q Rs 575/1150/2500; a) Mansehra’s best place (Abbottabad Rd; mains Rs 50-130) and the midrange
lonelyplanet.com HA Z A R A • • K a g h a n Va l l e y 251

Karakuram Hotel (mains Rs 100-350) with Chinese, land slippage and subsequent savage winters
Continental and Pakistani fare. have hindered roadworks, which were fre-
quent enough even before the earthquake,
Getting There & Away and restoration of phone and power lines.
The local minibus stand (Abbottabad Rd) has de- Rebuilding was very much in evidence at the
partures for Abbottabad (Rs 20) and irregu- time of writing but it will be many years be-
lar trips to Haripur (Rs 50) and Rawalpindi fore this region returns to normal in terms of
(Liaquat Chowk) only. access and accommodation.
For other destinations or modes of trans- At the valley head is the 4175m Babusar
port, take a Suzuki (Rs 5) from Shinkiari Rd Pass into the Indus Valley at Chilas. In 1892
the British established a supply line across

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
to the general bus stand, 1.5km north of town
on the KKH. It’s a large and hectic yard, but this pass, one of only two to Gilgit from
help is never far away. Just ask one of the the outside world. The other, the Burzil
many spruikers. Pass from Kashmir, was closed by the 1949
For the Kaghan Valley, there are minibuses ceasefire, leaving just the Babusar to link
to Balakot and sometimes Naran, as well as the NA with the rest of Pakistan until the
slower buses. For destinations north, go to KKH was built. It’s open for several weeks
Northern Areas Transport Company (Natco; %301471) each summer, a challenging alternative to
near the general bus stand beside the KKH. the KKH between Mansehra and Chilas.
You may be able to guarantee a seat by ring- Work has commenced on improving the
ing Natco’s Rawalpindi office (%051-9278441, 051- road, particularly on the Chilas side, but it
5462181). Buses and Coasters such as Natco’s is expected to take several years before this
run to a timetable, but the minibuses mostly becomes a viable short cut to Chilas for
leave when uncomfortably full. general transport.
Balakot (Rs 30) Minibuses, some heading on to Naran, The valley population consists of a string
leaving all day. of villages along the river, plus a biannual
Batagram (Rs 60) Minibus. migration of Gujars, who fan out with their
Besham (Rs 120) Minibuses leaving all day. animals into the high pastures of Hazara
Gilgit (Rs 800) Various Coasters and buses originating (and Swat and Chitral) in May and June,
from Rawalpindi. Natco has five departures a day. returning in September and October.
Islamabad (Rs 90, 3½ hours) Minibuses leaving all day. Several treks out of the valley are de-
Karachi (Rs 1000) Air-con buses each day. scribed in Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the
Lahore (Rs 300) Air-con buses each day. Karakoram & Hindukush.
Muzaffarabad (Rs 60) Minibuses leaving all day.
Naran (Rs 100) Minibuses leaving all day when road open. ORIENTATION
Rawalpindi (Rs 90 to Rs 100, 3½ hours) Buses leaving The valley’s gateway, Balakot, is 39km from
all day. Mansehra. The valley road is more or less
Skardu (Rs 700/850 minibus/bus) Natco has two depar- paved up to Naran, though there are numer-
tures originating from Rawalpindi in the afternoon (3pm ous interruptions due to land slippage, much
and 6pm). of it associated with the 2005 earthquake.
From Naran to Babusar Pass it’s 70km of
KAGHAN VALLEY gradually deteriorating jeep track. Four-
Embraced by the cool forested peaks of the wheel drives and other vehicles can be hired
Lesser Himalaya, this 160km-long valley in Balakot or Naran, with rates dropping in
drained by the burbling Kunhar River is one the off season.
of Pakistan’s most popular summer holiday
spots. The verdant valley is not without its WHEN TO GO
problems of crowding, litter and gouging By May, Shogran and Naran are usually ac-
hoteliers during the brief holiday season, but cessible by 4WD. Hotel prices and occupancy
outside the summer peak, you will find the rates are low at this time, but many of the
promised tranquillity though many of the scenic attractions are still under snow. High
hotels will have closed their doors. season begins in earnest in June. The mon-
The 2005 Kashmir earthquake devastated soon brings rain and numerous temporary
the town of Balakot and destroyed many roads roadblocks in July and August, but upvalley
in the steep-sided Kaghan Valley. On-going travel is possible. August is the best time for
 252 HA Z A R A • • K a g h a n Va l l e y lonelyplanet.com

KAGHAN VALLEY 0
0
20 km
12 miles
To Besham
(185km)
us River
Ind
er
Riv

KKH
Indus

Chilas To Gilgit
NORTHERN (110km)
Barsin AREAS Dasar
The external boundaries of Pakistan
& India on this map have not been
authenticated and may not be correct.
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

ah
Komila

kG
Dasu

Tha
H
KK

Babusar

Babusar Pass
(4175m)

Ka Riv
ba er
lba
Gittidas

sh
Lake

i
Lulusar
NORTH-WEST Besal Pur Lake
bi R Dudipat
FRONTIER iver
PROVINCE Jalk
han
dR
ive
r
Sukai Peak
(4689m)
Battakundi
Burawai

Lal
Jo

Naran aza
ra

r
Ri

r Pla
ve tea
ve

Ri u
r

Lake
ar
K unh Saiful Mulk

Malika Parbat
(5290m)
Kaghan
Danna
Meadows
Khanian
Mandu Mahandri
Guch
Jared
er

Sharan Shinu
Riv
Siran

To KKH Paras
(10km) Kawai
Shogran
Dadar Plateau
n AZAD JAMMU
To Besham (100km);
Shogra
& KASHMIR
Chilas (300km); Sri Paya
Gilgit (422km) Balakot Meadows Koh-i-Makra
l

(3900m)
tro
on
fC
eo
Lin

Shinkiari

Bassain

H Garhi
KK Habibullah

Altar INDIA
Shifa

Muzaffarabad
Mansehra

To Abbottabad (26km);
Rawalpindi (128km) To Murree
(80km)
lonelyplanet.com HA Z A R A • • K a g h a n Va l l e y 253

a jeep crossing of the Babusar Pass, at least impressive cracks. The spacious, clean and
until the road is completely upgraded. quiet rooms have morning and evening hot
Fine weather returns in September and water. Air-con is only available in the ex-
October, with the nights getting colder and pensive triple. The hotel has a multicuisine
the chance of snow in late October. From restaurant (mains Rs 50 to Rs 200) which
late November to early April snow routinely specialises in Chinese meals.
blocks the road beyond Kaghan, and the
upper villages are mostly deserted. GETTING THERE & AWAY
The general bus stand and jeep lot are north of
ACCOMMODATION Hotel Serenity, down the hill. Buses and mini-
Hotels overflow in the tourist season, but buses go to Mansehra (Rs 30) all day, depart-

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
prices collapse in May and September/ ing when full. For Muzaffarabad, take a bus or
October, when you can negotiate bargains Suzuki to Garhi Habibullah (Rs 20), and catch
with the handful of hotels that remain open. a Mansehra–Muzaffarabad bus (Rs 40).
Don’t count on any hotels in the smaller Depending on road conditions, buses, pick-
towns being open after the peak season. Few ups and minibuses go to Naran (Rs 100) all
hotels will offer single-room rates in season. day in June and July; out of season you may
There are several run-down PYHA hostels, have to take a jeep to Naran or transfer to
packed with Pakistani students in summer one in Kaghan.
and closed the rest of the year.
Some government resthouses are available Kawai & Shogran
on the rare occasions when officials aren’t %0987
using them. Make inquiries about the avail- At Kawai, 21km north of Balakot, a jeep track
ability of hotels and government resthouses climbs steeply for 8km up to the resort of
in the valley at the PTDC in Abbottabad Shogran. With views down to a carpet of forest
(see p247). and up to majestic peaks – including 5290m
Malika Parbat (Queen of Mountains), tallest in
Balakot the Kaghan Valley, and the brooding, 3900m
%0987 Koh-i-Makra (Spider Mountain). A day hike
Tragic Balakot (982m) was virtually de- is to the small lake and beautiful meadows of
stroyed in the 2005 earthquake and many Sri Paya, 9km beyond Shogran up a rough jeep
lives were lost. At the time of research one track. Afternoon views are best and reliable
hotel remained standing amid the tangle of local guides are available at the hotels.
tents and temporary shelters. The bazaar was Kawai has a small number of very basic
bustling beneath its makeshift shelter of cor- hotels with no reason other than road closures
rugated-iron sheets and blue plastic tarps. to stay there. At Shogran, the friendly Tourist
There is a great deal of energetic rebuilding Inn (%432236; d Rs 2000) has clean, rudimentary
and obvious resistance to government plans rooms, some with excellent balcony views,
to resite the town 30km towards Mansehra and a restaurant. Other budget options with
at Bakrial. fine views include Hotel Serenity (%432282; d
The PTDC operates a restaurant, at the Rs 400-1000), and the Punjab and the Marshee
southern end of town, but at the time of Breeze, which were being rebuilt at the time
research there was no tourist information, of research.
no vehicle hire and little accommodation At the top end the enormous Pine Park
here. The police, post office, telephone (%410333; s/d from Rs 1500/3000, cottages Rs 6000)
exchange and hospital were operating in largely survived the quake and is almost worth
temporary buildings in their old locations, the price, more so when you negotiate a low-
all a short walk south of the PTDC office. season discount. There are various rooms and
Banks here don’t do foreign exchange, and cottages, a restaurant, and local guides and
you can’t change money elsewhere in the jeep transport for hire.
Kaghan Valley. A minibus or pick-up is about Rs 50 from
The Hotel Serenity (%501182; d/tr Rs 600/2500; Balakot to Kawai. From there a special jeep
a) can be found at the back of a shopping can be hired for Rs 350 up to Shogran. A
arcade – apparently the only large building special jeep from Shogran to Sri Paya is Rs
to remain standing, and displaying some 800 one way.
 254 HA Z A R A • • K a g h a n Va l l e y Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Paras & Sharan at the Fisheries office, by the road to Lake

At Paras, 6km north of Kawai, a rough track Saiful Mulk, and tackle can be hired from
crosses the river and climbs 15km to Sharan, shops in the bazaar.
in the middle of a forest at 2400m. From
there you can hike through the forest or trek SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
overnight across to the Siran Valley, north of At 3200m, surrounded by moody, snowy
Mansehra. A local guide is a must. A special mountains, Lake Saiful Mulk (or Muluk) is said
jeep from Paras to Sharan is around Rs 800. to be inhabited by fairies. Legend has it that in
Paras has a budget hotel and at Sharan ancient times a mortal, Prince Saiful Mulk, fell
there’s a basic PYHA hostel and a forestry in love with a fairy there and married her.
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

resthouse that can be booked with help from It’s a hot two- to three-hour uphill walk
the PTDC in Abbottabad (see p247). from Naran to the lake; the path starts just
above the bazaar. Alternatively, you can hire
Khanian & Kaghan a jeep for Rs 700 from Naran, which can take
The undeveloped village of Khanian, at an up to six passengers. The driver will stay at the
attractive turn of the Kunhar River, offers lake for about an hour, allowing you to go for
a quiet place to stay if the tourist hordes are a horse ride before returning.
getting to you. As well as a few budget hotels The best way to have it all to yourself is to
there’s a Pine Park cottage that can be booked camp. A forestry resthouse at the lake can be
through the Pine Park Hotel in Naran. From booked at the Conservator of Forests (%0992-
Khanian, a 10km jeep track winds up the hill- 9310232; Jail Rd) in Abbottabad, or you could even
side to picturesque Danna Meadows. sleep on the porch with a sleeping bag.
About the only thing going for the next vil- A day’s further walking takes you east to
lage of Kaghan is that the road is usually open the edge of the Lalazar Plateau (though this
year-round, so if you can organise accommo- is more easily reached from Battakundi). A
dation it could make a base for winter trips. jeep to Lalazar Plateau costs around Rs 1000
Any other time, move on to Naran. There are from Naran.
several budget hotels with basic rooms that are
acceptable but overpriced in summer. From SLEEPING & EATING
Balakot, buses, pick-ups and minibuses pass The 2005 earthquake damage and subsequent
through on their way to Naran in summer; out access problems severely disrupted the holi-
of season you may have to hire a jeep. day seasons in 2006 and 2007. When the situ-
ation returns to normal, hotels in Naran will
Naran resume charging according to demand. In
%0985 the peak of summer, if you are lucky enough
At 2400m, Naran is the summertime base for to find a free room, you will be quoted more
exploring the valley and for the multitude than Rs 2000 for a rudimentary double with
of tourists escaping the heat of the plains. a tiny bathroom. Most hotels have a res-
It’s a beehive in the tourist season, choked taurant with Pakistani, Chinese and some
with jeeps and minibuses, and the hotels are Continental mains.
packed (Naran visitors sometimes have to There are numerous hotels in the budget
stay in Kaghan). By October the few hotels category that will charge Rs 300 to Rs 500
that remain open may ask less than a fifth of for a room either side of the summer season
the summer price. From November to April, but will happily treble these prices in sum-
Naran completely shuts down. mer. Most have very basic rooms with less
than basic bathrooms and only occasional
INFORMATION hot water. Hotels in this category include the
Following the 2005 earthquake and subse- Sarhad, Shalimar, Paradise Inn, Kohitoor,
quent access problems, Naran is yet to return Pakistan, Zam Zam and Zero Point at the
to normal. Phone numbers listed here are north end of town; Snow View in the centre;
likely to change when phone lines are restored and the Balakot, Frontier, Naran and Kunhar
and road access is likely to remain highly sea- View in the south.
sonal and tenuous. The PTDC (%430002; PTDC By the road, 3km south of town, is a PYHA
Motel) is your best bet for assistance in hiring hostel, in a state of disrepair. Some midrange
guides and jeeps. Fishing licences are available places may let you pitch a tent and use their
lonelyplanet.com HA Z A R A • • T o t h e B a b u s a r Pa s s 255

water and toilets for a small fee (though mountain bike, pony or on foot. Although
PTDC won’t). there are efforts to upgrade the road, most
Better-quality lodgings with room tariffs progress has been made on the Chilas side.
starting at Rs 800 for a single room and Rs You should definitely get local advice be-
1000 for a double can be found in the larger fore crossing the Babusar Pass. The PTDC in
hotels such as the Green Park, Pine Park, Naran (opposite) is a good source; in Chilas,
Lalazar, Troutlands and the PTDC Motel. try field officers at the Northern Areas Public
To stay at the PTDC in summer you will need Works Department (NAPWD) executive en-
to book well in advance through the PTDC in gineer office, or Natco drivers on the Babusar
Islamabad (see p77). village run.
At Battakundi, 16km up the valley, you can

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
GETTING THERE & AWAY detour 5km up to summer pastures on Lalazar
Minibuses to/from Balakot are Rs 100 and leave Plateau. There are resthouses in Battakundi
from the northern end of the main road when and 15km up the valley at Burawai. There is
full. Outside of July to September you may have occasional basic (charpoy) accommodation
to take a passenger jeep to Kaghan and change, at Battakundi and Besal, though you may find
or hire a jeep. The Naran PTDC has no jeeps the latter deserted.
for hire, but will help you bargain with local The road degenerates to a barely jeepable
drivers. In season, the PTDC runs a daily bus track 20km beyond Burawai, at Besal. From
service from Flashman’s Hotel in Rawalpindi, there you can detour about 15km east to
changing to a Coaster at Balakot. beautiful green Lake Dudipat, or stay on the
main track for about 3km to Lake Lulusar, the
TO THE BABUSAR PASS biggest natural lake in Hazara and the source
The Kaghan Valley’s most dramatic scenery of the Kunhar River. Here you may see Gujar
is beyond Naran. Travel here is by 4WD, encampments in the summer.

CYCLING THE BABUSAR PASS & KAGHAN VALLEY

Some who have cycled over the 4175m pass say it’s only sensible on a lightly loaded mountain
bike, and only if you’re in very good shape. Road improvements in progress should eventually
make this the route of choice. Food from Chilas to Naran is very basic when available – dhal,
chapati, sometimes rice. Camping is not advisable from Chilas to Gittidas.

Chilas to Babusar Pass, 52km

There is a steadily improving road up Thak Nala, starting 3km east of Chilas. The 39km from there
to Babusar village, with a primitive resthouse and a few cheap inns and shops, is progressively
improving but there are still many very rocky kilometres either side of the pass.

Babusar Pass to Naran, about 70km

The pass is about 35km before Burawai, and the track over it is still awful. You can camp safely
from Lake Lulusar to Naran. At Burawai there’s a resthouse and charpoy hotel. Battakundi, 15km
on, has a resthouse, a forestry hut, a collapsing PYHA youth hostel and a teashop. It’s then 16
steep kilometres to Naran.

Naran to Balakot, 83km

The road is more or less paved beyond Naran though there are numerous slippage areas. The
stretch beyond Kaghan has cheap hotels at Khanian and Mahandri. From Paras, 30km before
Balakot, a jeep track climbs 15km to 20km to Sharan. From Kawai, 24km before Balakot, a very
steep, mostly paved road climbs 1300m in 8km to beautiful Shogran.

Balakot to Mansehra, 42km

The road is hilly and twisting, and drivers are reckless. A slightly less busy alternative is the road
via Garhi Habibullah, the junction for the road to/from Muzaffarabad. Garhi Habibullah has food
stalls and basic charpoy hotels.
 256 HA Z A R A • • M a n s e h r a t o B a t a g r a m Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Gittidas, about 6km north of Lake Lulusar, to pine-scented Dadar. You can walk over the
is the southernmost Kohistani village in the mountains into the Kaghan Valley in a few
region, and not a particularly friendly place to days – from Shinkiari to Balakot, or from
stay the night without a local guide. Cyclists re- Dadar to Balakot or Sharan via Mandu Guch.
port stone-throwing kids, too. From Gittidas, The hills are said to harbour bears, wild cats
it’s about 8km to Babusar ‘top’. If the weather and outlaws, so a local guide is a very good
is clear, you can walk about 1km east from the idea. The PTDC (see p247) in Abbottabad is
pass for views of the Kaghan Valley behind a good source of information.
you and Nanga Parbat to the northeast. From Shinkiari the KKH climbs through
Babusar village is 13km north of the pass on pine plantations into a picturesque bowl called
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

the track, or about half that far on a short-cut Chattar Plain (named for Chattar Singh, an-
footpath. In summer there are a few shops and other Sikh general), 1¼ hours from Mansehra.
serais open, and a spartan resthouse, which The flat plain stills bears shattered buildings
you can only book at the Chilas NAPWD (see from the earthquake and the many brick-
p265). Camping is not recommended. making kilns here are working overtime. An
It’s 39km from Babusar village to Chilas on alternative route is by back road from Dadar
a jeep track that is being rapidly improved to Batal village, just south of Chattar Plain.
along Thak Nala. The new road meets the From Chattar Plain the KKH rises at the
KKH 3km east of Chilas. Natco makes this small settlement of Sharkul, about 14km from
trip daily in summer. Batal, then drops to Batagram, crossing into
the Nandihar River basin before dropping
Getting There & Away towards the Indus River.
Until the road improvements have finished,
only a small 4WD jeep can manage the nar- Sleeping & Eating
row, rocky track over the pass in July and Chattar Motel & Restaurant (%0987-333191; d Rs
August, though even then monsoon rains 1000) On Chattar Plain, 10km from Batal, the
make it problematic. A one-way jeep rental bright Chattar Motel sits in a neatly clipped
from Naran to Babusar village/Chilas costs lawn, and the good restaurant (mains Rs 40
about Rs 3500/5000. The pass is also feas- to Rs 250) is a popular lunch stop for tour
ible as a day trip from Naran, for about Rs groups. The comfortable doubles are elabo-
3000. Cargo jeeps sometimes go up as far rately wood-lined and the bathrooms, all with
as Besal. hot water, are spacious.
On foot, give yourself at least a week from PTDC Chattar (%0997-333455; s/d Rs 1200/1500) At
Naran to Babusar village, which allows for Sharkul, in the woods above Chattar Plain,
some side trips. Trekking may be possible the recently constructed PTDC Chattar has
as early as mid-June (though you’ll still find four spotless doubles and a small restaurant
snow) into October (though most villagers (mains Rs 60 to Rs 90).
will be gone for the winter by then). Snow Affaq Hotel (%0997-333106; d Rs 2000) Next door
normally begins in November. A local guide to the PTDC Chattar, the friendly (though
might be helpful from Gittidas to Babusar not much English) Affaq has similar rooms
village, as not everyone is friendly en route. but with cable TV in the lounge. Mains here
Naran to Chilas is about 130km. cost Rs 50 to Rs 150.
For information on cycling the Babusar
Pass, see the boxed text, p255. BATAGRAM
%0987 / pop 183,508
MANSEHRA TO BATAGRAM The Pashtun village of Batagram, straddling
The KKH leaves Mansehra and crosses the sur- the Nandihar River 25km from the Indus, has
rounding Pakhli Plain before rising through little to offer visitors other than some hard-to-
terraces of wheat and cornfields. About 35 find Buddhist ruins in the hills near Pishora.
minutes and 24km north of Mansehra is the Little English is spoken.
village of Shinkiari, where the National Tea
Research Institute is selecting varieties for Sights & Activities
Pakistan’s (largely unsuitable) climate. A few Across the Nandihar River, about 12km
minibuses from Mansehra continue from north of the bazaar on the KKH, watch for
here up the picturesque Siran River Valley the cable cars (some of them just rickety seats
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels I N D U S K O H I S TA N 257

suspended from a single cable) that connect only a few hours of sunlight a day, and
villages on the west side of the river to the are so inhospitable that even the caravan
KKH. For a cheap (make an offer) thrill, try routes bypassed it. The Highway traveller
one yourself. is surrounded by this fractured, crumbling
Archaeological researchers say there are landscape with barely a blade of grass vis-
Buddhist ruins near Pishora village, 8km north ible – magnificent and ominous. It’s a land-
of Batagram, though you would need good scape in motion; the sheer rock walls are
local help to find them. In the same area, Kala being ripped apart by powerful waterfalls
Tassa, there are petroglyphs depicting hunters, carving out yawning canyons, and rocks lie
animals and a Buddhist stupa beneath a rock scattered across the road.
overhang. The writing refers to a monastery Kohistan (Land of Mountains) refers to

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
in the time of a Kushan king of the 1st and the sub-6000m peaks enclosing this canyon
2nd centuries AD. as well as upper Swat and Dir. The desolate,
crumbling terrain made it one of the most har-
Sleeping & Eating rowing passages in Asia. The intrepid Chinese
Batagram View Hotel (%310194; s/d Rs 800/1000) The Buddhist pilgrim Fa Hsien, having already
best accommodation is here on the KKH, 2km crossed most of China and the Karakoram
south of the bazaar. Geared towards Japanese on foot, was awestruck. In 403 AD he wrote
tour groups, the hotel features a Japanese about Indus Kohistan:
bathhouse downstairs. Unfortunately, the
baths were seriously damaged in the 2005 The road is difficult and broken, with
earthquake and were still awaiting repair steep crags and precipices in the way.
when we visited. Oddly, the restaurant (mains The mountainside is like a stone wall
Rs 60 to Rs 100) does not feature Japanese 10,000 feet high. Looking down, the
cuisine; instead Pakistani, Chinese and a few sight is confused and there is no sure
Continental dishes are available. foothold.
Accommodation in town is decidedly
more downmarket, and there is little to dis- INDUS
tinguish the hotels from one another. Shangri- KOHISTAN 0 20 km
0 12 miles
La Hotel (d Rs 200), by the bus stop north of Sumi
the bridge, and Spogmay Hotel (s/d Rs 100/200), Falaksair
(5918m)
in the main bazaar, have small rooms with To Gilgit
Gabrial (200km)
squat toilets. Sazin

The chaotic bazaar has very basic, cheap KKH

Shatial
Karang
Su

restaurants, and there are fruit vendors in

m
er

Na
the area. The bright Thai Hotel & Food Mella Richa Ka nd i a V
er

al la
le
Indus Riv

y
(%310194; s/d Rs 800/1000; h8am-11pm) restaurant
features a Thai Airways colour scheme but Indus Kohistan
no Thai dishes – just Pakistani curries. Chowa
BarsIn
K o h i s t a n Dara Village
District
Kaya l Va l l ey

Komila Dasu
C

Getting There & Away

how
D uba

a Dara Va l l ey

There is a bus yard about 200m south of the

Bar Lashgelash
ir

Kayal
bridge, from where minibuses go all day to Dubair (3090m)
Va l l ey

Gid

Thakot (Rs 20, 45 minutes), Besham (Rs 50, Gunsher

a

Pattan Va
r

1½ hours) and Mansehra (Rs 45, two hours). l ley (4950m)

Pa

Jajial Sharakot Paro

You can catch a minibus to Alai (Rs 50, two Gidar
la

Dubair Va
s

l ley Bar
to three hours), while Karachi-bound buses To
Palas
Shangla Pass
stop west of the bridge. (20km) Sukai Peak
Besham (4689m)
Al Choar
ai
Vall Meadows

INDUS KOHISTAN Karora

Pir Sar
(2160m)
Thakot
Karg
ey
Banna
See Alai Valley
Map (p260)
Rounding the western end of the Himalaya Rive
r
us

KKH

at Nanga Parbat (8125m), the Indus River Batagram To Mansehra (60km);

Ind

Kaghan
Abbottabad (86km);
cuts a gorge so deep that some parts see Rawalpindi (190km)
 258 I N D U S K O H I S TA N • • T h a k o t t o B e s h a m lonelyplanet.com

The roadside bazaars are gloomy even on a the scenic Shangla Pass, and Besham is the
sunny day, and on the Highway – sometimes junction for buses to/from that direction.
hundreds of metres above the thrashing Indus –
you can empathise with Fa Hsien. Orientation & Information
Another name for the region was Yaghistan Nearly everything is located on the KKH.
(Land of the Ungoverned). Outlaws could Transport up and down the KKH and towards
hide here without fear of capture; tribal war- Swat starts from near the road fork to Swat.
fare and blood feuds were commonplace. For current information on road condi-
Stone watchtowers and fortified houses can tions and the surrounding valleys, ask at the
still be seen in the older villages. Even today PTDC Motel, south of town. Jan Net Café (per
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

outsiders are not very warmly welcomed and hr Rs 20) is near the budget hotels in the bazaar.
travelling off the KKH is not recommended South of the bazaar are a post office, phone
without first seeking police advice. exchange, banks and, further down, a po-
In the 1960s the KKH cut through the lice post. The district hospital is 250m east
Indus gorge and in 1976 Pakistan created down a side road near the Swat junction. The
an administrative district out of these semi- Habib Bank adjacent to the Hotel Continental
autonomous areas. The district government Besham was installing an ATM (apparently
relies heavily on police and the NWFP Frontier
Constabulary, whose forts dot the valley. BESHAM 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles

To Swat- To Chilas
A B
THAKOT TO BESHAM Khwazakhela (65km);
Mingora (94km) 11
(200km)

m Hwy
via Shangla Pass
Twenty-seven kilometres north of Batagram
the road drops down to cross the Indus River 6

Karakora
over an elegant, Chinese-constructed suspen- 1 10

Kha
sion bridge at Thakot. In 1976 a lively party was 17 13

n
Kh
held here, with Pakistani and Chinese music Local & Regional
Transport Area
wa
r
15
and dance, to open the bridge and celebrate
the completion of the Indus Valley Rd. In 16
many respects this is the real southern end of 14

the KKH, not the Havelian railhead. On the 18 1

other side of the bridge is the seedy roadside 9

2
bazaar of Dandai, with the basic Hotel Sapari. 8
Beside the road, 18km from Thakot and 2
12
9km south of Besham, is an obelisk honour- 7

ing the Kohistan Development Board, which

Riv dus

oversaw development of this area after the

er
In

devastating 1974 Pattan earthquake. The 3

stone marker lists the distances to Karachi, 5
INFORMATION
District Hospital........................1 B2
Kashgar, Beijing and other points. It makes a Habib Bank............................(see 7)
nice photo backdrop. Jan Net Café............................2 B2
National Bank..........................3 A3
Police.......................................4 A4
3
BESHAM Post Office...............................5 A3
Telephone Exchange..............(see 5)
%0996 / pop 56,269
y
Hw

Besham (beh-shaam) is about midway be- SLEEPING

m
ora

Abasin Hotel.............................6 B1
tween Rawalpindi and Gilgit, with several ho-
rak

Hotel Continental Besham........7 B2

Ka

tels, cheap serais, gun shops and a main road Hotel International...................8 B2
4 Hotel Paris & Restaurant..........9 B2
choked with trucks and buses. This is your Hotel Taj Mahal......................10 B1
base for visiting the Alai Valley, and pleasant Palace Mid Way Hotel............11 B1
Prince Hotel...........................12 B2
Dubair Valley is not far away. Rock City Hotel & Restaurant..13 B1
Besham is in an eastward bulge of Swat dis- TRANSPORT
trict, and is a mostly Pashtun town. The com- 4
Mashabrum Tours..................14 B2
Minibuses to Chilas & Gilgit....15 B1
mon speech is Pashto, and Pashtuns call the Minibuses to Mansehra &
Indus ‘Abaseen’ (Father of Rivers). The fore- To PTDC Motel (2km);
KDB Road Marker (11km);
Batagram...........................16 B2
Minibuses to Swat..................17 B1
runner of the KKH was meant to link the NA, Batagram (51km);
Mansehra (122km) Natco Ticket Office................18 B2
not south to Mansehra but west to Swat over
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels I N D U S K O H I S TA N • • A l a i Va l l e y 259

with international credit capability) at the a new 110 megawatt hydro power station as
time of research. a neighbour, and yet it is still one of the best
riverside hotels along the KKH. The rooms
Sleeping facing the river are spacious, fan-cooled and
BUDGET spotless, and a short hop from the garden
Prince Hotel (%400318; s/d Rs 150/300) The Prince where you can have a drink and watch the
is a rather miserable choice, for the financially fish jumping in the Indus.
embarrassed only. The basic rooms are grotty,
as is the small restaurant, but the management Eating
is friendly and apparently oblivious to the PTDC Motel (KKH; mains Rs 80-125) The PTDC Motel
restaurant has the usual small selection of

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
mould and decay.
Hotel International (%400415; s/d Rs 250/300) The mild curries that all the PTDCs serve.
International has worn-out but passably clean Hotel Continental Besham (KKH; mains Rs 110-170;
rooms with squat toilets and cold shower. This a) The upmarket Continental has gener-
hotel also boasts a crude restaurant. ous set menus, comfortable air-con and a few
Abasin Hotel (%400338; s/d Rs 200/400) Just north Italian dishes in addition to the ubiquitous
of the Swat junction and next to the boisterous Pakistani and Chinese cuisine.
minibus yard, the Abasin has very ordinary Budget hotel restaurants such as the Hotel
rooms with toilet and cold shower. Paris (mains Rs 65-170) and Hotel International (mains
Hotel Taj Mahal (%400432; s/d Rs 280/450) Next Rs 60-100) churn out Pakistani basics like sabzi
door to the Abasin, Taj Mahal is even gloomier (curried vegetables), dhal and mutton curry.
and most of the rooms are poky. The better Bazaar serais have inexpensive chapli ke-
rooms are on the top floor, with sit-down babs, vegetables and omelettes. Fresh supplies
toilets and hot water. here are the best in Kohistan. In the morning,
Hotel Paris & Restaurant (%400310; s/d/tr Rs try puri (deep-fried bread) with halwa (made
350/450/550) The Hotel Paris is possibly the best from lentils, semolina or wheat with butter,
of the bazaar cheapies. The rooms are tired sugar, milk and sweet spices).
but clean with reliable running hot water and
some have sit-down toilets and a bathtub. Getting There & Away
Rock City Hotel & Restaurant (%400553; d Rs 600) Natco and Mashabrum Tours run several
Rock City has adequate though rather pricey buses to Rawalpindi (Rs 280, seven hours)
rooms overlooking a raging torrent. Back and Gilgit (Rs 450, nine hours) daily. Natco
rooms have the river views (and noise). The buses stop every few hours outside the gloomy
clean-looking restaurant (mains Rs 80 to Rs Karachi (Al Mubarak) Hotel, but they don’t
160) has a small selection of Pakistani curries. always have empty seats. Organise tickets
from the office inside the hotel. Mashabrum
MIDRANGE Tours buses stop outside the Swat Hotel and
Palace Mid Way Hotel (%400505; KKH; s/d/tr Rs tickets need to be purchased from the driver.
700/1000/1200) Just north of town, this welcom- There’s also a minibus stand for unsched-
ing hotel is another very comfortable option uled minibuses to Gilgit (Rs 400) via Chilas
with clean rooms arranged around a spacious (Rs 270) and other stops north. Unscheduled
communal area. Bathrooms are supplied with minibuses leave for Batagram (Rs 60) and
toiletries and evaporative air coolers are avail- Mansehra (Rs 120) when they are full.
able on request. The restaurant has Pakistani For Swat, minibuses head to Mingora (Rs
and Chinese cuisine. 100) from next to the Abasin Hotel. Change
Hotel Continental Besham (%400475; KKH; s/d at Khwazakhela (Rs 100) for Madyan and
Rs 1100/1400, s/d with air-con Rs 1600/2000; a) Large upper Swat.
(40 rooms) and central with a loquacious and Suzukis, pick-ups and minibuses leave,
friendly manager. It’s the only place in Besham when they’re full, for Pattan (Rs 55) and Dasu
that can boast reliable air-con, and the spacious (Rs 90) from the Swat junction.
rooms have cable TV and clean bathrooms.
The restaurant (right) is also very good. ALAI VALLEY
PTDC Motel (%400301; KKH; s/d Rs 1900/2450) This The people of the beautiful Alai Valley are
motel 2.5km south of town suffered some seri- Pashtuns, probably driven out of Swat in the
ous damage in the 2005 earthquake and has 16th century. They had their own nawab
 260 I N D U S K O H I S TA N • • A l a i Va l l e y lonelyplanet.com

ALAI VALLEY Approximate Scale

0
0
10 km
6 miles

To Chilas
(180km)
Jeep Track to Besham
Frontier
Constabulary
Fort
Restaurant-
District teashops
Ala Council
To Karg i
& Thakot
Kh Resthouse To Battila
wa
r
Hospital

0 400 m C&W Resthouse

To Shangla 0 0.2 miles New
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Pass (30km) Bridge

Choar

r
wa
Koshgram Meadows

Kh
Besham Battila i

Khwar
a
Kund an
Bridge pk Ganthar
Derkad Pashto Ru
Sakarga Palang

Sherai
Pazang
Panjul
Alai Khwa
PTDC r Tandol
Motel Rupkanai
Khan Khwar
Power Station Bandai
Talus Sherai Rashang Gangwal
Indu
KKH s Riv Banna
Nogram
er Kasai
m Khwar
Pass Karg See Enlargement Nogra

Bela Biarai
Pokal Barai Khwa

Dandai

Kanai
r

To Batagram (27km); Thakot

Mansehra (92km)

(Muslim ruler), and were left alone until the the bus line at Karg, walk 500m back for good
late 1970s, when the area came under NWFP views of the Indus. At the east end of Karg,
control and the nawab was demoted to parlia- fork left to the main village of Banna, lo-
mentary delegate. Alai Valley is actually in the cated across the Alai River, with a red-roofed
Mansehra district, not Indus Kohistan, but its district council resthouse, a C&W resthouse
only road access is from the Indus. and a small hospital. Turning left past the
Though surprised to see foreigners, peo- police post (where they like you to register
ple are instinctively hospitable. If you respect if you’re staying the night) and the Frontier
their Sunni orthodoxy – especially by dressing Constabulary fort, you’ll find a jeep track
modestly – you may enjoy some legendary that runs 30km downvalley, leading directly
Pashtun hospitality. Try out your Pashto, as to Besham.
there is little English spoken.
You get to Alai from Thakot on a road so Sights & Activities
lofty and exposed that near the top you can see The road from Banna up Sherai Khwar
about 20km of the Indus River in one sweep – (Sherai Valley) offers the best valley views.
reason enough to go. The valley is a bonus, The right fork at Karg eventually takes you
lush with cornfields, terraces and orchards, and into Rupkanai Khwar, at the head of which
rising to pine-forested mountains. The optimal is Sukai Peak (4689m). At the first bridge,
visit is probably a long day trip from Besham. about 4km from Karg, look up towards
Alai is cool even in summer, so take an Biarai, which locals consider the valley’s
extra layer. From November to April it’s very prettiest village.
cold, with snow by December. Choar is a vast alpine meadow area, as big
as Alai itself, a long day’s walk (one way) up
Orientation & Information either the Rupkanai or Nogram Khwars. It’s
The 29km Thakot to Alai road rises more accessible only from May to August, when
than one vertical kilometre. From the end of herds are driven up to it. You can camp there,
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels I N D U S K O H I S TA N • • D u b a i r Va l l e y 261

even trek across to the Kaghan Valley, but a Pattan has some of the region’s few remain-
local guide is essential – talk to locals. ing carved wooden grave markers, once com-
mon throughout Swat and Kohistan.
Sleeping & Eating
There are two resthouses and basic teashops Orientation & Information
but no hotels. The C&W resthouse is under The village is well below the Highway. A link
the jurisdiction of the executive engineer in road descends from near a KKH memorial,
Mansehra, but you might be able to get help but buses drop you almost 1km south, on a
from the Besham PTDC (%0996-400301). Arrange bluff above the village, from where you can
meals with the chowkidar (caretaker) or bring short cut straight down like everyone else.
your own food. The manager at the Kohistan Tourist Inn is

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
a helpful source of information on roads, vil-
Getting There & Away lages and people in the upper valleys.
Occasional cargo jeeps go directly up the
Alai Valley from Kund Bridge, 1.5km south Sleeping & Eating
of Besham, but the regular passenger service Kohistan Tourist Inn (%405142; KKH; s/d Rs 1000/1200)
is via Thakot, 28km south of Besham (pick- The best and biggest option for travellers in
up to Thakot Rs 30). Regular pick-ups and these parts is set on a bend of the KKH, 2km
minibuses go from Thakot to Karg every hour south of Pattan. The hotel has bright, clean
or so (Rs 60, three hours). rooms with wire-screened windows and the
friendly manager is a great source of local info.
DUBAIR VALLEY There’s a (proposed) tea garden beside the
Forty minutes and 17km north of Besham, churning Chowa Dara Khwar, which will be
a plume of bright blue liquid in the river is great for weary travellers. The hotel restaurant
actually the clear Dubair River entering the (mains Rs 50 to Rs 120) has a small vegetarian
silt-laden Indus. South of the bridge a jeep and Continental (chicken gruel!) selection
track climbs beside the stream, past terraces along with curries and Chinese favourites.
of corn guarded by scarecrows in Chitrali hats. You can get uninspiring meat and dhal
Occasional passenger pick-ups go 15km up from serais in Pattan bazaar. Shops have bis-
the canyon to Bar (Upper) Dubair village. A cuits, staples and, occasionally, fruit.
mule track reaches 20km further to the valley
head, though you should definitely get local Getting There & Away
advice before going up there. On the KKH, passenger Suzukis and pick-ups
Overlooking the Dubair River in the cen- go to Dubair or Kayal Valleys for Rs 40 and to
tre of the traffic-clogged bazaar, the Dubair Komila and Besham for Rs 55.
Rest Point Hotel (s/d Rs 200/250) is a very basic
restaurant with a few dirty rooms. The rag- PATTAN 0 200 m
0 0.1 miles
ged Dubair Bazaar has snacks, fruit and
Memorial Plaque
cold drinks.
At Jajial, 5km east of Dubair Valley, the KKH To Chowa
Dara Valley
To Kayal
Village (15km);
leaves the Indian subcontinent, geologically Hotel Dasu (31km);
Chilas (155km)
speaking. White-grey rocks south of Jajial be- Frontier
Constabulary Footbridge
long to the subcontinent, while greenish mate-
H

(Broken)
KK

rial to the north was part of a chain of volcanic Kohistan Bazaar

Tourist Inn Bus
islands trapped against Asia by the drifting Ch
Stop Helipad
ep Rd

ow
Indian landmass (see the boxed text, p64). a Pattan Assistant
Commissioner
s Je
Da
ra

Indu

PATTAN Police Fort

Rive

Bazaar
Old

%0998 / pop 121,027

KKH

To
r

Gidar
Pattan (pa-taan) sits in a fertile bowl at about C&W ve
r (15km);
Resthouse Ri Bar Palas
900m where the Indus is joined by the Chowa Indus
Dara and Palas Rivers. It was the epicentre of
Palas

Palas
a massive earthquake in 1974, in which entire
sections of valley wall collapsed, burying whole To Sharakot (10km);
To Dubair Bazaar (15km);
Riv

villages and killing more than 7000 people. Besham (35km) Kuz Palas
er
 262 I N D U S K O H I S TA N • • A r o u n d Pa t t a n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

AROUND PATTAN DASU & KOMILA

Before venturing into any of these side valleys, %0987
consult the manager at the Kohistan Tourist Together these two villages, linked by the
Inn (p261) and the police in Pattan, and heed KKH bridge, have merged to form the big-
their advice. Forestry resthouses at Kayal, gest settlement between Besham and Chilas.
Dubair and Palas Valleys are booked with the Dasu, headquarters of Kohistan district, has
district forestry officer in Dasu (right). All can government offices and resthouses. Komila
be reached by passenger Suzuki from Pattan. has the bazaar and the transport.

Chowa Dara Valley Information

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

The Chowa Dara (cho-wa da-rah) Valley Komila has a post office. In Dasu, 300m north
makes a good day hike, with channels, ter- of the bridge, are the police, district com-
raced fields and hamlets every few kilometres. missioner, Frontier Constabulary and C&W
A jeep road leaves the KKH north of the bus executive engineer; you can book resthouses
stop, and will eventually cover the 15km (and here and at Pattan and Besham. The district
climb 1400m) to Chowa Dara village at the forestry office, where you can book regional
head of the valley. forestry resthouses, is also in Dasu.

Palas Valley Sleeping & Eating

This canyon across the Indus offers strenuous Khyber Lodge Hotel (%407102; s/d Rs 400/700) The
hiking. About 12km up a jeep road is Sharakot best accommodation in Dasu, although that
village. Beyond it are the beautiful pastures of isn’t saying much. Dodgy wiring and plumb-
Kuz Palas (Lower Palas). Get local advice in ing and diabolical stairways hint at ‘works in
Pattan on local protocol (few foreigners visit progress’ but there’s little evidence of progress.
this side of the Indus). In any case, you should However, the management is friendly and a
call in at Sharakot police post. There are good source of information and the views of
occasional cargo jeeps from Pattan Bazaar. the Indus are magnificent. The better rooms
with soap and towel and running hot water
Bar Palas are found upstairs. There’s a decent restau-
About 15km north on an old jeep road up the rant (mains Rs 65 to Rs 120) with a Pakistani
east bank of the Indus, a track turns up into menu as well as pakoras and potato chips
the Gidar (guh-daa) Valley. It’s 20km more for snacks.
up to Gidar village, above which are mead- Other options include the Green Hills Hotel
ows beneath a glacier at Bar Palas (Upper (%407032; d Rs 350) in Komila and Indus Waves
Palas). Cargo jeeps go from Pattan Bazaar as Hotel (Dasu; s/d Rs 180/200), with basic rooms and
far as Sichoy; any further and you will need shared toilet. The basic meat and chapati truck
to be self-sufficient, and ideally under the stops aren’t eager for foreign guests.
protection of the authorities, the police post
at Paro (about 3km before Gidar) and the Getting There & Away
tribal council. Some northbound and southbound Natco
buses stop at the bright Natco Hotel in Dasu
KAYAL VALLEY for a food stop. If there are seats available you
Twenty minutes north of Pattan the Highway can buy a ticket from the driver. Catch regional
slithers away from the Indus into a deep, nar- transport in upper Komila bazaar. Long-
row side canyon. At the end, south of the distance buses and minibuses use a dirty space
bridge, a jeep road climbs 7km to Kayal vil- downhill and closer to the bridge in Komila
lage. Above here the valley divides and a track and may also stop at the petrol station or Indus
up the right fork continues for 15km to pas- Waves Hotel in Dasu. Minibuses are Rs 55 to
tures at 3000m. Get local advice before going Pattan and Rs 90 to Besham. For Chilas, you
very far in. may need to change at Shatial (Rs 50).
Shacks on the KKH have meat, chapati
and snacks. Pick-ups pass frequently on the DASU TO SHATIAL
KKH between Pattan and Komila. Occasional In several places north of Dasu the road is
passenger jeeps go to Kayal village from just a notch in a sheer granite face, hundreds
Pattan Bazaar. of metres above the silty Indus. This stretch
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G I L G I T R E G I O N • • D a re l & Ta n g i r 263

of road took a full year to carve out and Getting There & Away
cost more lives per kilometre to build than Minibuses go upriver to Chilas (about Rs 70,
any other part of the KKH. It was originally 1½ hours), and downriver to Besham (Rs
planned for the broad slopes across the river, 125, five to six hours), all day. This is also
but ferocious local resistance to the loss of the transfer point for the Darel and Tangir
arable land led to the road’s realignment. Valleys (below).
It’s a rocky cauldron of unforgiving heat in
summer. What’s most extraordinary is the
number of logs lying beside the road. These
logs are sold on the Highway and are sourced
GILGIT REGION
from unseen forests high above the Indus and This section begins in the southernmost unit

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
the KKH. of the NA, Diamir district. It’s best known for
At Barsin, 12km north of Dasu, a very lonely the 8125m massif of Nanga Parbat, the eighth-
four-room PTDC Motel (s/d Rs 1800/2200) is like a highest mountain in the world (Diamir is its
fort in the frontier. And that is exactly what local name). It also includes the remote Astor
it is – a refuge for travellers caught by a sink- Valley, running along the east side of Nanga
ing sun. Travel in these parts after sundown Parbat to the Indus, and 100km of the Indus
is not recommended. The rooms are recently Valley from there to the NWFP line, taking in
repainted and clean, and simple meals can be some of Pakistan’s harshest terrain and most
provided in the restaurant. A phone is com- ungovernable peoples.
ing (apparently), but for now, management Gilgit Town is the administrative headquar-
suggest booking through the Khyber Lodge ters for the NA and a major hub of the KKH.
Hotel (%0987-407102) in Dasu. This bustling town offers information, trans-
A further 10km north is the confluence port, friendly hotels and good restaurants. The
with the 80km-long Kandia Valley, a major town is an interesting melting pot of northern
Indus tributary and, until the 19th century, peoples, and there are historical spots and
an independent ministate. Ten minutes on, good walks within day-trip distance.
the Indus turns east, its dark gorge abruptly Surrounding Gilgit are some beautiful
opens out and soon the NA reaches down to valleys: Haramosh on the Indus, Bagrot just
the northern riverbank – though the Highway downriver, Naltar to the north, and the upper
remains in NWFP for a further 40km or so. Gilgit River system – comprising Punial and
At Sumer Nala, about 23km north of the the tributaries of Ishkoman, Yasin and Ghizar,
Kandia Valley bridge, you can find basic char- the last stretching west to the Shandur Pass
poy hotels at a popular truck stop, though nei- into Chitral. The lower reaches of these valleys
ther Sumer Nala or Shatial are recommended are austere and brown, though poplars and or-
places to stop. chards brighten them in spring and autumn.
But the higher you go the better it looks; many
SHATIAL glacier-fed nalas (Urdu for tributary canyons)
From the road, Shatial is an ad hoc collection above 2000m harbour pine and juniper forests
of serais, minibuses and swarms of idle men and luxuriant meadows.
(looking for casual work). Check out the petro-
glyphs below the bazaar, near the Indus bridge DAREL & TANGIR
(to Darel). They include a detailed Buddhist Two of the old unruly valley states that have
tableau and many inscriptions and travellers’ stayed unruly are Darel (da-rel) and Tangir
names, pecked into the rocks from the 1st (taan-geer), which meet the Indus across from
century AD onwards. (There is more of this Shatial. They voluntarily joined Pakistan only
extraordinary ancient graffiti along the road in 1952, and even today have the NA’s worst
from here to Chilas.) reputation for lawlessness. ‘Administration’
from Chilas mostly means police garrisons
Sleeping to keep the customary blood feuds from
Shatial Bazaar has an ultra-basic serai with boiling over.
charpoys. For cyclists, Dasu to Chilas is Reports of gun battles between locals and
the longest stretch (about 125km) of the police are common, as are travellers’ stories of
KKH without reliable or recommended theft and even rape. It’s hard to separate fact
accommodation. from fiction, but this clearly isn’t a very safe
 KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
0 40 km
GILGIT REGION 0 20 miles

Sholkuch Thui An To Afiyatabad

Darkot (Sost) (20km)
Ishkoman

er
See Hunza & Nagyr Map (p295) Passu
Imit

Riv
Ultar II Gulmit

sin
Nialthi (7388m)
Phakor

er

Ya
Yasin

Riv
The external boundaries of Pakistan
Chatorkhand
264 G I L G I T R E G I O N

River Karimabad & India on this map have not been

an
za
authenticated and may not be correct.

un
KKH

kom
Aliabad

H
Mastuj River
Punial

Ish
Mastuj er Chalt
Riv Minapin

Na
Central

l
Teru Gakuch Ghulmet

ta
Ghizar
To Chitral Borsat

r
Dahimal Gupis Karakoram

Gi
Valley (50km)

Ri
Shandur National

lg
Gulagmuli Phander

ve
Diran

it
Chashi

r
Pass River Park
Ghizar Rakaposhi (7270m)
Buni Zom Sor Sherqila (7788m) KA
(6550m) Laspur Langar Singhal Nomal Miar R AK
Valley (6824m) Malubiting OR
(7458m) A M

rot
aj RA
uR Gilgit Dobani Laila

Bag
nd (6134m) (6986m)
NG
Hi E

Haramosh
See Naltar Valley & Punial Map (p281) Haramosh
Sassi (7409m)

Tangir
NORTH-WEST See Haramosh & Bagrot Jaglot
Falaksair Gumari Valleys Map (p271)
FRONTIER (5918m) Tangir

el
PROVINCE Bunji
Sumi See Indus Kohistan Map (p257) Thowar
NORTHERN

Dar
AREAS Talechi Mendi
Sh
i

Raikot
ga

Indu
Sazin s
As

Bridge
rR

a Shatial Basho
iv

tor

Kandi
er

Hodur Kachura Lake

Kalam Valley Thor River Jalipur
Riv

In
er

Gonar Farm d

KKH
Chilas KKH us
Ri
Astor ver
Swat Kohistan
Skardu
Komila Nanga Tarashing Burji
Dasu Satpara
Parbat Pass
(8125m) Lake
Madyan Babusar Rupal Gudai Alampi
See Astor Valley &
Pass Dari Pass
Babusar Nanga Parbat Map (p269)

iver
Pattan
Pass

at R
Sw
Deosai
Plains
Khwazakhela Chhachor Pass
(4300m)
Karora Besham
Shangla Banna
Naran
Pass
Mingora (2134m) Thakot
lonelyplanet.com
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G I L G I T R E G I O N • • S h a t i a l t o C h i l a s 265

place to visit, and outsiders aren’t warmly wel- one in almost every side valley, each loosely
comed. It’s a pity, because the valleys are said guided by a jirga (council of tribal elders) but
to be rich in natural beauty and archaeological effectively leaderless, all at war with one another
remains. Darel was the site of some important and feuding internally. Though administratively
Buddhist monasteries. lumped with Gilgit, Chilas and its neighbours
You can hire a pick-up at Shatial or a jeep are temperamentally more like Indus Kohistan,
at Chilas, though your first stop should be probably owing to a similarly hostile environ-
the assistant commissioner or the chief of ment and the same Sunni Muslim orthodoxy
police at Tangir or Gumari. Both are about (their ancestors were forcibly converted centu-
20km from Shatial. ries ago by Pashtun crusaders, whereas hardly
anyone north of Gilgit is Sunni).

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
SHATIAL TO CHILAS The large Chilas Fort was first garrisoned to
protect British supply lines over the Babusar
Along the road, look for cave-dwelling shep- Pass, and beefed up after local tribes nearly
herds who move down to the river for the overran it in 1893. Now a police post, it has
vital water. Foreigners will need to register put a lid on Chilas, though not on the Darel
at the Chilas district boundary, 43km before and Tangir Valleys to the west.
Chilas, near where work has begun on Basha Chilasis are Shina speakers, with some
Dam. This controversial dam will submerge Pashtun settlers speaking Pashto. Urdu and
many petroglyphs that Unesco has identi- some English are also spoken.
fied as having great artistic and historical
value. Ten minutes onwards the Highway Orientation
crosses from NWFP into the NA, passing a The recommended hotels geared to travellers
line drawn on a map by Sir Cyril Radcliffe are on the KKH and the less-than-welcoming
in the feverish fortnight before Partition in town is on a plateau above. You can flag a
1947. This was the intended border between pick-up for the 3km ride up to the bazaar from
Pakistan and India, disarranged by an upris- the police checkpoint, or walk up the Buto
ing in Gilgit (see the boxed text, p275). Gah road. The bazaar huddles by the fort, with
Just 17km from the previous checkpoint, a bus yard to one side. South of the bazaar, a
foreigners need to register again at another left fork drops to district offices, while the
checkpoint. Eight kilometres further is Thor right fork climbs towards Babusar Pass.
(pronounced ‘tore’), a green oasis in the arid
valley. Below the bridge over Thor Gah are Information
some rock inscriptions. Twenty minutes on, On the road to the bazaar is the NAPWD
across the river, the remains of a 1000-year- executive engineer, where district resthouses
old fort are on a ridge to the right of a ra- can be booked. The post office is opposite the
vine called Hodur Gah. The rocks below the fort, which houses the police post. A district
fort are covered with old inscriptions. hospital is at the bottom of Hospital Rd.
West of Chilas the Indus is flat and me-
andering. On the south side, the Lesser Sights & Activities
Himalaya stretches 80km towards Punjab. Local police are usually happy to show guests
On the north side are the Hindu Raj, the around the fort, where they are stationed. Your
eastern arm of the Hindukush. From Hodur, hotel manager may be able to help organise
20 minutes west of Chilas, take your first this. The interesting stone-filled wooden bat-
look at Nanga Parbat. tlements with gun sights are crumbling away
and the blackened kitchen looks as if it’s been
CHILAS in use since 1893.
%05812 Chilas is surrounded by wonderful petro-
Most visitors are here to look at the petro- glyphs, which are easy to access, though be pre-
glyphs or to cross the Babusar Pass (see p255). pared for high temperatures and take plenty
There are few other reasons to stop. Foreign of water (see the boxed text, p267).
women especially may feel unwelcome.
Even after Kashmiri-British rule was imposed Sleeping & Eating
a century ago, the Indus Valley west of Chilas On the KKH (and nearest the petroglyphs)
was a hornet’s nest of tiny republics; there was are several midrange tourist hotels with hot
 266 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • C h i l a s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

CHILAS 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles

A B C D
7
Indu INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
s R District Hospital............................1 A2 Chilas Fort....................................5 B2
iver
NAPWD Executive Engineer.........2 B2 Chilas I Petroglyph Site................6 D2
1 National Bank...............................3 B2 Chilas II Petroglyph Site................7 A1
Police
Checkpoint 15 Police Post.................................(see 5) Petroglyphs..................................8 D2
Post Office...................................4 B2
SLEEPING
To Besham 12 Diamond Peak..............................9 B2
14
(200km) 10 Grace Continental Hotel &
11
Restaurant..............................10 B1
Hotel Chilas Inn..........................11 B1
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Ka
Karakurum Inn............................12 B1
Airstrip
rak NAPWD Resthouse....................13 A2
ora
m
Hw
Panorama Hotel & Restaurant.....14 B1
y Shangrila Indus View..................15 B1
1
TRANSPORT
2 Bus Yard.....................................16 B2

2 Rocks
5 6
Ra
no 16 9
iR 8
13 d 4
3
Ba
h

zaa
Ga

r
to

To Thalpan
Bu

Village (1km)

To Thak Nala (2km);

Road to Babusar Pass (2km);
To Government Gilgit (117km)
Offices (500m); Jail (500m);
Babusar Pass (35km)

showers (a moot point in this cauldron of are clean and spacious, and the restaurant
rocks where summer temperatures often ex- (breakfast Rs 120, lunch Rs 225 and dinner
ceed 40ºC) and good restaurants. The evapo- Rs 280) has generous set meals of local and
rative air coolers common to these Highway Continental dishes.
hotels are effective in the dry heat and don’t Grace Continental Hotel & Restaurant (%50516;
overly draw on the limited electricity. The ho- KKH; s/d Rs 800/1000) The Grace Continental has
tels up in the bazaar can be foreigner-friendly small air-cooled rooms with squat toilets and
but the same can’t necessarily be said for their cold shower. The rooms are poorly ventilated
regular clientele. In these cheap local inns, the and rather smelly and overpriced. The res-
rooms are basic and the bedding dirty. taurant (mains Rs 45 to Rs 60) produces in-
Diamond Peak (s/d Rs 150/200) Probably the best expensive dhal, chicken and mutton curries
of the very basic hotels in the bazaar. and chapatis.
The NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300) is good, but Hotel Chilas Inn (%50510; KKH; d standard/deluxe
very popular in summer. Other NAPWD rest- Rs 800/1200) The staff here is very helpful and
houses are east of Chilas at Jalipur, Gonar informative and there’s a gift shop in the foyer.
Farm and Gini (off the Highway), and there’s The rooms of this recommended hotel are air-
a primitive resthouse at Babusar village on the cooled and there’s a nice surprise in the bath-
Kaghan Valley road, the only one that closes rooms – a bathtub. There’s a good restaurant
in winter. All can be booked in Chilas with (mains Rs 120 to Rs 200) with Pakistani and
the executive engineer. Chinese dishes, and a pleasant rose garden in
Karakurum Inn (%50511; KKH; dm/s/d Rs 100/600/700) which to relax once the sun has retreated.
The friendly staff here are happy to help for- Shangrila Indus View (% 50539; KKH; s/d Rs
eigners visit the petroglyph sites and Chilas 1095/1195, s/d deluxe Rs 2500/2700, s/d VIP Rs 3000/3495)
village. While local assistance or advice may The budget rooms are overpriced as they lack
not be necessary, it is certainly recommended. a view and show wear and tear. The deluxe
The air-cooled rooms at the Karakurum Inn rooms are rather similar but do have wire-
lonelyplanet.com G I L G I T R E G I O N • • C h i l a s t o G i l g i t 267

screened verandas and a river view. The VIP to hire one in Gilgit. For information about
rooms have attractive mock-traditional décor the Babusar Pass, see p255.
of mud walls, double beds and a tub in the
bathroom, and are definitely the best rooms in CHILAS TO GILGIT
Chilas. All rooms are air-cooled. The recom- About 12km beyond Chilas a cavalcade of
mended restaurant (mains from Rs 150) has liveried trucks and rambling teashops signals
Pakistani, Chinese and Continental cuisine. the popular truck stop of Gini. A further 13km
Panorama Hotel & Restaurant (%50664; KKH; s/d and the Highway passes through Bunar Das, an
Rs 1600/1800, s/d deluxe Rs 1500/2000) The Panorama’s oasis of green fields and fruit trees hemmed
aspect over the valley is very pleasing and the in by stone walls. The village is situated on
wide, wire-screened verandas are comfort-

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
a plateau below the Bunar Gah, the main
able vantage points. All rooms are air-cooled, access to Nanga Parbat’s western (Diamir)
and the 10 deluxe rooms have tubs in the face. After Bunar Das the Highway bisects the
bathroom. There is a good restaurant (mains small settlements of Gonar Farm and Jalipur
Rs 70 to Rs 125) with numerous fried rice before reaching the notorious ‘sliding area’ of
dishes such as the tasty beef chilli fried rice Tatta Pani, 6km before Raikot Bridge.
for Rs 70. The Highway crosses the Indus on Raikot
Bridge, just over an hour (55km) east of
Getting There & Away Chilas. From the south side of the bridge a
Minibuses (Rs 130) run every few hours be- private road has been driven up the moun-
tween the bus yard and Gilgit’s general bus tainside towards the pristine alpine plateau
stand. A minibus to Shatial is Rs 70. Local called Fairy Meadow, with heart-stopping
pick-ups will take you from the Chilas bus views up Nanga Parbat’s north side, and
yard to the KKH for a few rupees, or on north to Rakaposhi peak.
to Hodur, Thor or Shatial. Through buses The road was built with logging in mind,
to Rawalpindi pass about four hours after but subsequent plans for a resort at the mead-
departing Gilgit. ows (the Shangrila Motel by the bridge was to
be a ‘holding pen’ for resort guests) got some
BABUSAR PASS & KAGHAN VALLEY backs up. Local people, through whose land
A Natco vehicle leaves from near the post the road runs, offer jeep transport to Fairy
office early each morning (in summer only) Point (one way/return Rs 1500/3000) – the
and goes up to Babusar village along the up- end of the road. For more on trekking in this
graded road through Thak Nala. You might area, see p348.
be able to hire a jeep to Naran (in the Kaghan Five minutes north of the bridge, the
Valley) from the bus yard, but a surer way is small Liachar Nala enters the Indus. In 1841

THE PETROGLYPHS AT CHILAS

The ancient routes through the Karakoram are dotted with places where travellers pecked graffiti
into the sun-varnished rocks: names, pictures or prayers for safe passage, merit in the afterlife
or good luck on the next hunting trip. The desolation around Chilas must have moved many to
special fervour, and several sites by the Highway are rich with these inscriptions.
There is a sign to the ‘Chilas II’ site near the KKH police checkpoint. Less than 1km down a
jeep track there is a huge rock covered with hunting and battle scenes and Buddhist stupas. A
common image is the long-horned ibex, ancient symbol of fertility and abundance, and an elusive
trophy animal even now. On a rocky knoll facing the river are the oldest inscriptions, from the
1st century AD: scenes of conquest and stories of the Buddha’s life.
Four kilometres east beside the jeep bridge to Thalpan is the ‘Chilas I’ site, with art found
on both sides of the Highway and the river. The most striking pictures are of a large stupa with
banners flying, close to the Highway; and mythical animals, battle scenes, royal lineages and
Buddhist tales, across the river on dozens of rocks west of the track.
Details of these and other sites are in two books you might find in an Islamabad bookshop: Dr
AH Dani’s Human Records on Karakorum Highway and Dr Karl Jettmar’s Rockcarvings & Inscriptions
in the Northern Areas of Pakistan.
 268 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • A s t o r Va l l e y & N a n g a Pa r b a t Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

an earthquake caused an entire valley wall to The India-Pakistan Line of Control has closed
collapse into the Indus here, damming it up. the Burzil, but Astor is still the best way to get
When the dam broke, a wall of water roared up close to the mountain. Four-wheel drives
down the canyon, washing away scores of vil- regularly fell off the track until it was im-
lages and drowning thousands, including an proved. It’s now wider and safer, but probably
entire Sikh army battalion camped at Attock, no more comfortable.
almost 500km downstream. Astor Valley is about 75% Sunni and 25%
Midway between Chilas and Gilgit (1½ hours Shiite, the latter mainly in the upper tributar-
from each) and 2km south of the village of Talechi ies. Everyone speaks Shina and almost no-
(ta-li-chee), is the turn-off to Astor Valley. The body speaks English. Some food is available in
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

area around Talechi has the best views of the Astor, but if you’re going further or camping
largest number of snowy peaks anywhere on it’s a good idea to bring some supplies.
the KKH. From the north, the prominent ones
are Rakaposhi (7788m; a sharp point above Talechi to Astor Village
a broad white base), Dobani (6134m; a blunt The road from Talechi near the mouth of
pyramid), Haramosh (7409m; a series of glaci- the valley starts off impressively but is soon
ated ridges) and Nanga Parbat (8125m). squeezed onto the crumbling sides of the bar-
Thirteen kilometres north of Talechi is the ren, slide-prone gorge. It’s an oven in sum-
old bridge and road to Astor Valley via Bunji, mer, but grows lovelier as you climb. There’s a
once the Maharaja of Kashmir’s local garri- foreigner registration point 13km in at Doian,
son, now headquarters of the Northern Light not long after which the road traverses a dan-
Infantry (NLI). A further 4km brings you to gerous slipping area.
Jaglot (juh-glote) bazaar and after another 5km At 2450m Astor village is perched like an
there is a whitewashed monument signalling eagle’s nest on both sides of Rama Gah (ra-
the junction of the Indus and Hunza Rivers, vine). The bazaar is up a steep track on the
and so the meeting point of the Karakoram, north side of the ravine, and the valley road
Hindukush and Himalayan Ranges. Another continues on the south side. The police ask
4km further on (an hour south of Gilgit), the foreigners to register on arrival; the station is
Skardu road leaves the KKH. in the bazaar. Above the bazaar is the NAPWD
executive engineer, where you can book valley
Sleeping & Eating resthouses. A post office is across the ravine,
At Raikot Bridge is the Shangrila Motel (s/d near the polo ground.
Rs 1500/1800), an expensive option that is
theoretically open from June through to SLEEPING & EATING
mid-October. Do not rely on it being open, Dreamland Tourist Inn (s/d Rs 200/300) At the top of
though; ring the Shangrila Indus View (%05812- the main bazaar, this place has a decent local
50539) in Chilas. An alternative is 15km north restaurant and bathrooms with cold shower.
at the beautifully sited NAPWD resthouse (d Rs There’s also a small garden.
300) in Talechi. It can be booked through Kamran Hotel (%05817-51111; s/d Rs 400/600) A
the executive engineer in Chilas or the chief few metres down the hill from Dreamland,
engineer (%05811-50307) in Gilgit. There are the Kamran is slightly more upmarket with
several shabby inns at Jaglot. small though comfortable rooms with morn-
ing hot water. The Kamran is your best bet
ASTOR VALLEY & NANGA PARBAT for finding a room either side of the peak
The Nanga Parbat massif is the western anchor summer season. The restaurant (mains Rs 40
of the Great Himalaya. Its south (Rupal) face is to Rs 80) does well with the limited supplies
a sheer 4500m wall, too steep for snow to stick – available up here.
hence its name, Urdu for ‘Naked Mountain’. On the south side of Rama Gah is an NAPWD
The north (Raikot) face steps down 7000m to resthouse (d Rs 300), which can be booked with
the Indus. A large number of climbers have the executive engineer here or the chief engi-
been killed trying to scale this mountain. neer (%05811-50307) in Gilgit.
The hair-raising track beside it, up the
Astor Valley and over the Burzil Pass, was Rama Lake
the only link between British India and Gilgit Above Astor village is the steep and very beau-
until the Babusar Pass was opened in 1892. tiful Rama Gah, with scattered hamlets and
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G I L G I T R E G I O N • • A s t o r Va l l e y & N a n g a Pa r b a t 269

ASTOR VALLEY & NANGA PARBAT 0

0
10 km
6 miles

To Jaglot (20km); Talechi To Jaglot (20km);

Gilgit (60km) Gilgit (60km)

Site of
Raikot 1841
Bridge Landslide

KKH
Mushkin
Lia
ch
ar
ver Na
Indus Ri Bu la
ld
ar

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Raiko

River
t Gah
Jalipur

ge
Harcho
Muthat

id
To Chilas
Tato

Asto
Jalipur

(20km)
H

r
KK

pu

r
Jhel

Bul
li
Ga

Ja

g e
Bunar Das Gonar

dar
High
h

Farm Muthat Pass

Va
Fairy Camp (4965m)

Ri d
Rid
Meadow

lle
Go

Patro

y
Nth Jalipur
na

ge
Lotang
r

(5215m)
Bunar Ga h

Beyal Kent
Glacier Rama Rama Gah
R a i k ho t G

Shaichi Buldar

ra
Glacier Astor
High Khutsu Pass ge
Buldar Rid
Gah

ng
Camp (4837m)
Ga

(5602m) Chongra ma
Ra
h

h o
Base (6830m) c ie

r
Gutum
l

Gla Rama
ac

Karu Sagar Sagar South Camp er Sachen

C
i

Halaley (4800m) Jalipur

Bridge High Middle Lake
(5206m) Camp Chongra
Zangot
T
ar
(6455m)
Diamir Kuta Gali Ganalo South
Loibah Ga (6606m) Chongra as Gurikot
Meadow h h
(6448m) in
Di Raikot g
am (7070m) Tara
ir Silberzacken sh ing
R
Gl aci (7597m) id
er ge
To Gudai (15km);
Gl

Nanga Parbat
aci

Tarashing Deosai Plains

Mazeno (8125m)
er

Chorit
Pass
Ba zhi n

(5399m) Herligkoffer Zaipur

Base Camp Rupal
Mazeno Rampur
High Shaigiri Latobah
Camp Glacier G la ci r
e
ah

Gah
hi G

Ratu

al
Rup
e

Mazeno e
dg

hic

Base Camp
Ri

Shaigiri
id
Ch

Gah
R
al

hi
up

i er R
ic

Gl a c
hh

Tos ha i n ( Ru p a l)
C

To Deosai Plains;
Line of Control
(60km)

thick pine and birch forest. A steep track starts here is a large and incongruous PTDC Motel
from Astor bazaar. In a big meadow two to 2½ (s/d Rs 1200/1500) with the expected comfortable
hours up, take the left-hand track and walk for rooms and hot water. Check with the PTDC
an hour past the treeline to Rama Lake. It’s (%05811-54262; c/o PTDC Chinar Inn, Babar Rd) in Gilgit
about 1km higher than Astor village, and is to confirm when it is open.
considerably cooler in all seasons. From here
you can see Rama Ridge, a minor shoulder of Upper Astor Valley
Nanga Parbat, and the Sachen Glacier (not to The upper valley is a worthy destination in
be confused with the Siachen Glacier in the its own right and also works well as a side
High Karakoram). trip to Deosai Plains jeep safaris. Good walks
start from upvalley villages including Gurikot
SLEEPING & EATING (9km beyond Astor), Rampur and Tarashing.
There is excellent camping at the meadow and A track towards the Deosai Plains (p291) goes
at the lake. At the meadow there’s a modest up Chilim Gah, just above Gurikot.
NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300), which can be booked The track to Britain’s old Burzil Pass
through the executive engineer in Astor or route to Kashmir branches south up Ratu
the chief engineer (%05811-50307) in Gilgit. Also Gah, about 15km from Gurikot (Ratu Gah
 270 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • A s t o r Va l l e y & N a n g a Pa r b a t Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

NANGA PARBAT
An unmistakable feature of the region is massive Nanga Parbat, 8125m high and rising by
7mm every year, faster than almost any other part of the Himalaya chain. The sharpest eleva-
tion differences found anywhere on earth are here: almost seven vertical kilometres from the
summit into the adjacent Indus gorge, and the mountain’s sheer, unbroken 4000m south wall
(the Rupal face).
Nanga Parbat sits atop a mass of ancient Indian Plate rocks, sticking oddly northwards
into the volcanic-island material of the Kohistan Complex. Its unusual position and growth
are still matters of active research; explanations involve the dynamics of the entire Himalayan
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

system.
At Liachar Valley, about 4km upstream from the Raikot Bridge over the Indus (between Gilgit
and Chilas), across from the KKH, you can see the grey pre-Cambrian granite of the Indian Plate,
hundreds of millions of years old, pushed over on top of river sediments less than 100,000 years
old. This reversal is part of the continuing disruption as Nanga Parbat rises.

approaches the Line of Control and is there- idyllic summer pasture with an awesome
fore off limits). view of Nanga Parbat’s south face. It is also
Tarashing is about 40km from Astor and the starting point for a longer, technical trek
2911m high, beneath Nanga Parbat’s naked across Mazeno La.
Rupal face (though it’s not in full view). The Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Karakoram
village sits in a spectacular piece of real estate & Hindukush has further details on these and
amid massive glaciers flowing from the moun- other treks around Nanga Parbat.
tain massif. From here you can day-hike up
the moraine (glacial rubble) for a good look at SLEEPING & EATING
the Rupal face, the Tarashing Glacier, across Tarashing is the only village in the valley with
the glacier and on up Rupal Gah, or across accommodation, although new hotels are
Rupal Gah to Zaipur village, at the top of which planned for Rupal village and the road’s end.
are water channels on huge wooden towers said Hotel Nanga Parbat (Tarashing; camping Rs 100,
to be 400 to 500 years old. It is important to r downstairs/upstairs Rs 400/500) Has a big gar-
note that local police regulations currently do den and rooms with shared bathroom and
not allow unaccompanied foreigners to venture cold shower.
beyond Tarashing (for their own safety). Rupal Hotel (Tarashing; camping Rs 100, r downstairs/
Beyond Tarashing the Rupal Valley is domi- upstairs Rs 400/500) The similar Rupal has a walled
nated by Nanga Parbat’s Rupal face that compound in which to pitch a tent.
sweeps 4572m upwards in the world’s great-
est vertical rise from a base camp to a summit. Getting There & Away
Staggeringly close-up views of Nanga Parbat Natco has a daily bus to Astor (Rs 130), de-
are possible from several vantage points in parting from Gilgit’s general bus stand. A
the valley. A recently constructed road ex- Natco bus also leaves Astor for Rawalpindi
tends beyond Tarashing and Rupal village to (Rs 700, 16 hours) at 11am. Other minibuses
within less than an hour’s easy walk of its bound for Astor (Rs 130) infrequently leave
base camp, Herrligkoffer Base Camp (3550m), a from near the Diamir Hotel in Gilgit. Astor
beautiful meadow with a large spring along is four to five hours from Gilgit.
the Bazhin Glacier. It’s named for Dr Karl You can hire a jeep in Astor for the round
M Herrligkoffer, the leader of eight German trip to Rama Lake for about Rs 1200. Cargo
expeditions to Nanga Parbat, including the and passenger jeeps run daily from Astor
first successful expedition in 1953. to Tarashing (Rs 60, 1½ hours), departing
From the base camp, you can go on a sporadically from no particular place in the
half-day walk across the Bazhin Glacier to bazaar – ask around and you will be shown.
Latobah (3530m), the broad, level meadow Tarashing–Astor vehicles depart daily between
frequented by Rupal shepherds directly be- 6.30am and 7am. The road is only metalled
neath the main summit. An overnight trek halfway from Astor to the junction with the
goes further upvalley to Shaigiri (3655m), an road across the Deosai Plains.
lonelyplanet.com G I L G I T R E G I O N • • H a r a m o s h Va l l e y 271

HARAMOSH VALLEY roadhouses and Skardu-bound minibuses and

Thirty-eight kilometres south of Gilgit, the buses may stop there.
Skardu Rd leaves the KKH and joins the
Indus. The Haramosh Valley circles around BAGROT VALLEY
7409m Haramosh, descending to the road just Fifteen kilometres downriver from Gilgit, a
where the Indus gorge turns south to skirt this broad alluvial fan marks the Bagrot (ba-grote)
massif, near the village of Sassi. Valley. Its lower reaches are like a marbled
The Shina-speaking people in the valley moonscape, and a ride up the narrow, perched
are unused to foreigners and haven’t much road is unforgettable. The upper valley is huge,
to offer visitors. There’s no food or lodg- rugged and densely cultivated. The Shina-

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
ing, but alpine meadows and the glaciers at speaking, Shiite Bagrotis see few foreigners
the feet of Haramosh and other giants await other than passing trekkers.
trekkers; see Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Oshikandas is a mainly Ismaili village on the
Karakoram & Hindukush for details on these road from Gilgit. Across the river is Jalalabad.
and other treks. Bagrot’s main village is Sinakkar, two hours
There is no recommended accommodation from Gilgit. At the end of the jeep road, 1½
beyond the Highway. Sassi has several seedy hours on, is the last year-round village, Chirah,

HARAMOSH & BAGROT VALLEYS 0

0
10 km
6 miles

Rakaposhi
(7788m) Diran
(7270m)

Hinarche
Glacier

To Karimabad
(65km)
Miar
Gah Burche Glacier (6824m)
Darchan Bulche Dar
Chirah Gargoh
Farphu Rakhan Gali
(4548m) Malubiting
Datuche
(7458m)
lley
Hu
KK

Va
H
n
za

Sultanabad
rot

Sinakkar
Bag

Dobani
Ri

(6134m) Basha
ve
r

Glacier
Dainyor
Oshikandas Barche
Gure
Gilgit
Iskere
Dassu
Valley
Jalalabad mosh
Hara Mani
Nala Glacier
ti al
Ju
Haramosh
(7409m)
Gi Sassi
lgi
tR
ive Rd
er
r Riv
du
s
ar
du
Sk
In

Parthab
Bridge To Skardu
(85km)
KK
H

Jaglot

To Astor (45km);
Chilas (80km) To Bunji (5km)
 272 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • G i l g i t T o w n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

with a view of Hinarche Glacier and a series tles erupted around Gilgit during 1992 to 1994
of ridges culminating in Diran Peak (7270m). and, after a long period of relative calm, again
Nagyr is on the other side. The prominent in 2005. Since then, the overwhelming pres-
peak to the southeast is 6134m Dobani. ence of heavily armed police and army has
From Chirah there’s a spectacular trek up become everyday normality, though it can be
to Diran Base Camp (see p346). In another di- quite a shock for visitors.
rection, four to five hours’ walking will bring Gilgit is becoming a city, its headlong
you to Dar, and the same distance on again is growth owing more to its position on modern
Gargoh. These are seasonal villages where a trade routes to China and Central Asia than
large part of the valley’s population migrates to tourism. There is always talk (but little ac-
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

with their goats and sheep each summer. tion) of extending the airport runway to allow
Hikers (some trekkers, but day hikers too) jets to land, but basic public services such as
go as far as Gargoh (ie a day east of Chirah) electricity and water haven’t kept pace with
but not across Rakhan Gali. Lonely Planet’s the town’s growth.
Trekking in the Karakoram & Hindukush has
further details on this and other treks. Orientation
The town is beside the Gilgit River, 10km west
Sleeping of the KKH. A back road also comes from the
Perched on a ledge up above Chirah, with post- KKH at Dainyor via bridges over the Hunza
card-perfect views of Diran and the Hinarche and Gilgit Rivers, saving 10km for those com-
Glacier, the basic Bagrote Sarai (camping Rs 100, r Rs ing from the north.
500) is literally at the end of the road. There’s The bazaar is essentially a 2km street full of
a panoramic dining hall in which to unwind, shops. Shopkeepers from nearby areas clus-
and above it the simple rooms are arranged on ter together; eg in Khazana (Bank) Rd for
terraces (you can lie in bed and look out at the Nagyr and in Jamaat Khana Bazaar for Hunza.
mountains). The bathrooms are in a separate Southwest up Khazana Rd are government
building and there are more terraces above the offices; further up are several villages, the big-
rooms where you can pitch a tent. gest of which is Barmas. The airport is east
of the main bazaar. Southeast is the military
Getting There & Away cantonment of Jutial.
From Garhi Bagh in Gilgit, cargo jeeps go in Some roads have two names, one common
the early morning to Chirah via Dainyor in and one official: eg Jamaat Khana Bazaar (Sir
under an hour. A better bet is to go by Suzuki Aga Khan Rd), Bank Rd (Khazana Rd) and
to Dainyor, where you can pick up a ‘special’ Hospital Rd (Allama Iqbal Rd) – official
taxi to Chirah (Rs 70). Avoid jeeps to Sinakkar, names are in parentheses.
which isn’t far enough. Travel Walji’s (%05811-
52665; www.waljis.com; Airport Rd) in Gilgit organises Information
overnight trips and local hikes. Expect to pay BOOKSHOPS
Rs 2500 for the jeep and driver. Gilgit Serena Hotel (%55894; Jutial) With GM Baig
& Son closed, the best place to buy books on the NA is the
GILGIT TOWN shop in the lobby of this top-end hotel.
%05811 / elevation 1500m North News Agency (Madina Market) Modest collection
Gilgit’s dusty bazaar is not particularly colour- of NA books in English.
ful but it’s lively and eclectic, filled with peo-
ple drawn from Karachi to Kashgar. It’s not EMERGENCY
unusual to hear Uyghur, Wakhi, Burushaski, Police Headquarters (%53356) The Senior Super-
Khowar and Pashto; Urdu and English are intendent of Police (SSP) is across the Gilgit River by the
also widely spoken. Jinnah Bridges.
The town wakes early to muezzins in
scores of mosques calling the faithful to dawn FOREIGNERS’ REGISTRATION
prayers. The major Muslim branches – Shiite, Foreigners’ Registration Office (FRO; Yadgar Chowk;
Sunni and Ismaili – overlap here, with sectar- h8am-3pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8am-noon Fri Apr-Sep,
ian tensions just under the surface. In 1988 9am-3.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-noon Fri Oct-Mar)
Sunni–Shiite hostility exploded into virtual Authorities in Gilgit are still requesting registration for
warfare at Jalalabad in Bagrot. Sectarian bat- travellers staying for more than 15 days in the NA – despite
 0 400 m
GILGIT TOWN 0 0.2 miles

Rd
A B C College D E F
To Dainyor &
Riv KKH (10km)
To Gakuch (70km); Gupis er View
(110km); Ishkoman (120km); Rd
Yasin (120km); Chitral (366km) Sabzi
Mandi River
lonelyplanet.com

23 46 Gilgit
1 56 Polo River View Rd
Punial
Rd Ground Kashmiri
24

Pul Rd
Bazaar Garhi Bagh Northern Areas 15

Rd
To Kargah Kakakhel Council
Nala (5km) General Store Raja B
azaar Sad 25 48 Abdul Ra
b Nishta
Army Public r Rd Town
21
Bazadar
ar 26

a (Bank)
58 29 NLI 22 School Hall
45 18 Market 34 Chinar Jinnah
55 30
16 59 41 47 Bagh Park 28 Bridges

Khazan
Ch
Hunza 10

Rd
2 13 33 ina
To Vision
Chowk

k
Cinema rG

in
To Kargah Nala 11 14 ard 27 International
12

lL
1 49 Bazaar e n Rd 38

a
(5km) Eye Hospital
7 Madina

aar a
Khazana (500m)

my
Market 53

aat
(Bank) Rd 57 Ba

Do

Baz Khan
Colonel NLI 35 ba
Chowk

Jam
Hassan 42 r R
d
4 JSR
Market 32
Aga Khan Rural

d
2 Plaza
Makka Support Programme

kR
5 Market (AKRSP)
51

Lin
17 Hospital Rd Air
54 po

gh
rt R

a
Nasseem 40 d

rB
Old Polo Chowk 9
Ground Airport

ina
44 Terminal

Ch
20 50 52
To Barmas To Jutial (500m); Askari Bakery (700m);
Village (500m) Airport Rd Bank Alfalah (1km); Horizon Guest House
43 37 (1.2km); Travel Plus; General Bus
19 Stand (3km)
INFORMATION Public Call Office (PCO)...............17 A2 New Tourist Cottage.........................35 E2 am
31 Airport e -Az
Alam & Co Money Exchange.......1 C2 Soneri Bank...................................18 B1 North Inn..........................................36 F3 Chowk Shahrah-e- aid-
Quaid-e-Azam Qu 39
Comsats.......................................2 A2 Travel Walji’s............................... 19 D3 Park Hotel........................................37 D3 h-e-
a
Khomer hahr 8
Deputy Commissioner's Office.....3 F4 Women’s Hospital.......................20 A2 PTDC Chinar Inn...............................38 E2 Chowk S
3 Deputy Director Fisheries Northern Rupal Inn..........................................39 F3 To Jutial (500m);
Gilgit Serena
Areas.......................................4 A2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Top Moon Hotel.............................. 40 D2 36
Ri
az Hotel (1km)
District Hospital............................5 A2 British Cemetery............................21 B1 Yadgar
Chowk
Rd

Fairy Meadow Tours................(see 31) Gohar Aman's Tower...................22 C1 EATING 6 Inset same scale as main map
Foreigners’ Registration Office Imamia Mosque............................23 A1 Askari Bakery....................................41 C1
(FRO).......................................6 E3 Jama Mosque...............................24 B1 Baig's Restaurant..............................42 C2 Trekking Equipment & Gift Shop....(see 33)
Gilgit Municipal Library................7 A2 Moti Mosque................................25 B1 Green Dragon................................(see 31) Xama Stores.....................................52 D2
Golden Peak Tours.......................8 F3 Uprising Memorial........................26 D1 Marshal Bakery & General Store....... 43 D3 Sh
ah
rah
Ideal Net Café..............................9 D2 Walk & Ride Pakistan.................(see 57) North Pole Traders...........................44 D2 TRANSPORT -e-
Qu
Ladies Public Toilets...................10 C2 Salar Restaurant................................45 B1 K-2 Tours.......................................(see 13) aid
-e- 3
Madina Guides........................(see 33) SLEEPING Yoghurt Shops..................................46 B1 Mashabrum Tours............................53 C2 Aza
m
Men's public Toilets.................(see 47) Canopy Nexus..............................27 F2 Minibuses to Astor...........................54 C2
NAPWD Chief Engineer..............11 B2 Gilgit Continental Hotel................28 E1 SHOPPING Minibuses to Chalt, Thol & Minapin..55 B1
4 National Bank............................12 A2 Golden Peak Hotel & Restaurant...29 B1 Hunza Computers.............................47 C1 Natco Bus Yard for Punial &
National Bank............................13 C2 Hotel Riveria.................................30 E1 Javed Digital Color Lab.....................48 B1 Westwards...................................56 A1
North News Agency...................14 C2 Jamal Hotel.................................. 31 D3 JJ Color Lab Kodak Express.............. 49 C2 PIA Booking Office...........................57 C2 See
Inset
Police Headquarters....................15 E1 JSR Hotel.....................................32 C2 Karakoram Mountaineering Private Buses for Punial &
Post Office..................................16 B1 Madina Hotel & Guest House......33 C2 Equipment................................... 50 D2 Westwards...................................58 A1
PTDC Office............................(see 38) Mir's Lodge..................................34 D1 Longlife Mountaineering Equipment..51 C2 Shehnaz Cycle Co.............................59 B1
G I L G I T R E G I O N • • G i l g i t T o w n 273

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
 274 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • G i l g i t T o w n lonelyplanet.com

national abolition of the 30-day foreigner registration rule. TELEPHONE

You need two passport photos and a photocopy of your visa You can make overseas calls from the gov-
and passport. ernment PCO next to the Askari Bakery in
Jutial, and from the main exchange in upper
INTERNET ACCESS Hospital Rd. Both are open 24 hours. The
Popular backpacker hotels such as the Madina government PCO charges up to 30% less than
and Horizon, as well as the upmarket Serena, the numerous private PCOs.
have good internet services.
Comsats (Khazana Rd; per hr Rs 40) At ISP Comsats’ office TOURIST INFORMATION
you will find the fastest and most comfortable internet Gilgit Conservation & Information Centre
(%55658; NLI Colony, Jutial) The regional office for the
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

café in Gilgit (apart from the hotels mentioned above).

Ideal Net Cafe (Airport Rd; per hr Rs 40) A tight squeeze World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), 200m west of the
and a bit unsavoury. general bus stand, has a comfortable library with bird, plant
and mammal guides, as well as some general texts on the
LIBRARY region. Brochures on regional conservation programmes.
Gilgit Municipal Library (h9am-2pm Sun-Thu, 8am- NAPWD Chief Engineer (%50307; Khazana Rd) Book
noon Fri) Off upper Khazana Rd, in the renovated home resthouses between Chilas and the Khunjerab Pass here.
of the early British political agents. Many of its 20,000 PTDC (%54262; c/o PTDC Chinar Inn, Babar Rd) Has a
volumes are in English and the reading room has some few brochures and can help with bookings and tours, but
international magazines. that’s about it.

MEDICAL SERVICES TRAVEL AGENCIES

Gilgit has a district hospital (upper Hospital Rd) Gilgit has a number of travel and trek-
and, nearby, a Women’s Hospital with fe- king agencies, including the following
male doctors. Foreign women can go to ei- reliable ones:
ther, though the former has more specialists. Golden Peak Tours (%55726; www.goldenpeaktours
The internationally staffed, privately funded .com.pk; Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam Rd, Khomer Chowk)
Vision International Eye Hospital (%55778; www Lost Horizon Treks & Tours (%55288; www.losthori
.gilgiteyehospital.org; River View Rd), 2km east of the zontreks.com; Horizon Guesthouse, Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-
twin suspension Jinnah Bridges, confirms that Azam Rd) Goes anywhere but Astor Valley is a speciality.
in emergencies they can help travellers with Madina Guides (%53536; www.madinaguides.com;
non-eye problems. The hospital relies on (and Madina Hotel & Guest House, NLI Chowk)
welcomes) private donations. Travel Walji’s (%52665; www.waljis.com; Airport Rd)
Highly reputable company with reliable jeeps and drivers.
MONEY
Alam & Co Money Exchange (417 NLI Chowk; VISA EXTENSION
h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Better cash rates than the banks. Deputy Commissioner’s Office (DCO; Shahrah-e-
Accepts most major currencies. Quaid-e-Azam Rd; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri) Thirty-day ex-
Bank Alfalah (Heli Chowk) Has an ATM that accepts tensions are provided to most nationalities – cost depends
international Visa (only) cards (when it is working!). on nationality but they’re often provided free of charge.
National Bank (Khazana Rd; h9am-1.30pm Mon-Thu,
9am-12.30pm Fri & Sat) Efficient and friendly foreign Sights & Activities
exchange, accepting US and Canadian dollars, UK pounds, GOHAR AMAN’S TOWER
euros and travellers cheques. At the time of research In the grounds of the Army Public School
finishing touches were being put on the new branch near (Hayat Shaheed), a crumbling adobe tower is
NLI Chowk. all that remains of a fort built by Gohar Aman
Soneri Bank (Saddar Bazaar; h9am-1.30pm & 3-5pm in the 1850s. There’s not much to look at and
Mon-Thu, 9am-12.30pm Fri & Sat) Note extended after- the school is pretty security conscious. The
noon hours for foreign exchange. Travellers cheques attract school principal may be happy to escort you to
Rs 50 commission. the tower and provide a potted history.

POST BRITISH CEMETERY

Post office (Saddar Bazaar; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat) The well-kept British Cemetery (Lower Khazana Rd;
Poste restante is down the path along the right-hand side h9am-8pm May-Oct, 10am-6pm Nov-Apr) has some sur-
facing the main office. prisingly recent graves of adventurous trekkers
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G I L G I T R E G I O N • • G i l g i t T o w n 275

THE GILGIT UPRISING

At Partition, many had anticipated Maharaja Hari Singh’s eventual accession to India. A clique
of Muslim officers in the Maharaja’s own army, led by Colonel Mirza Hassan Khan, had been
conspiring to seize Kashmir for Pakistan, but word had got out and Hassan was transferred to
Kashmir’s ‘Siberia’, the Bunji garrison south of Gilgit.
Meanwhile, the Gilgit Scouts’ Major Mohammed Babar Khan and several fellow officers (and,
according to some, their British commander) had hatched their own rebellion.
Within days of the Maharaja’s decision, a mob gathered in Gilgit from neighbouring valleys.
The governor called Bunji for help, and who should be among the reinforcements but Colonel

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Hassan. On 1 November Babar Khan arrested Governor Ghansar Singh and the rebels asked to
join Pakistan.
Within a few days the Scouts, with Muslim soldiers of the Kashmiri army, joined the war
with India. In the following months the Scouts took Baltistan, and Hassan got to the outskirts
of Srinagar.
The fledgling Indian air force at one point bombed Gilgit, no easy task in the narrow valleys.
Gilgitis like to tell the story of the Scouts’ pipe band, which mocked the Indian pilots by defiantly
tootling up and down the airfield the whole time.
Memories of the ‘Uprising’ are still alive in Gilgit. Hassan, Babar and another leader of the
Gilgit Scouts, Maj Safiullah Beg, are buried in the town’s shady municipal park, Chinar Bagh, and
many of their offspring are local politicians and entrepreneurs. Of course, it’s not 14 August but 1
November that Gilgit celebrates as Independence Day, with spontaneous music and dancing and
a week-long polo tournament. One of the best polo teams every year is from the Gilgit garrison
of the Northern Light Infantry (NLI), successor to the Gilgit Scouts.

and mountaineers among the more historical HORSE TREKKING

plots. Buried here is Captain George Hayward, Walk & Ride Pakistan (%52205; www.walkandride
a British explorer murdered in Yasin in 1870 by pakistan.com; Huma Plaza, Domyal Link Rd) organises
a son of Gohar Aman. On the side of the shack horse treks from Phander to the Shandur Pass
inside the grounds you’ll find a useful map for the polo tournament, as well as through
with some interesting stories from the grave. the Chapursan Valley in Gojal.
If Ghulam Ali, the caretaker, is around you’ll
be shown more interesting items for a small FISHING
donation to the cemetery’s upkeep. The office of the Deputy Director Fisheries
Northern Areas (%53277; Khazana Rd) issues a for-
UPRISING MEMORIAL eigners’ fishing licence (US$10/30/160 per
By Chinar Bagh, the municipal park, is a me- day/week/month). Don’t bother with the ar-
morial to those who rose against the Maharaja chaic fishing gear available for hire – bring
in 1947. It includes the graves of the local your own.
heroes, Mohammed Babar Khan and Safiullah
Beg of the Gilgit Scouts, and Mirza Hassan Sleeping
Khan of the Kashmir Infantry. See the boxed BUDGET
text, above. In this range, most rooms have bathrooms
with hot water running in the morning and
POLO possibly the evening. Many also have gardens
In late October the action starts to hot up as where you can pitch a tent.
teams vie for the chance to compete in the Top Moon Hotel (%53828; Airport Rd; s/d Rs 150/200)
prestigious Shandur cup. Enter the ground The manager will probably be quite surprised
via the gates on Raja Bazaar; admission is ap- if you take one of his shabby, easy-on-the-
parently free. The horsemanship is first rate, pocket rooms. All have bathrooms, but the
the reckless competitiveness of the riders is hot water plumbing is unreliable. A desperate
entertaining and the treatment of the horses choice only.
is…well, these must be tough little ponies. See Golden Peak Hotel & Restaurant (%54839; Khazana
the boxed text, p276. Rd; dm/s Rs 100/150, d Rs 200-300) The ramshackle
 276 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • G i l g i t T o w n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

THE GAME OF KINGS

Polo is the most popular sport in the NA and Chitral, eclipsing even cricket as a topic of conversa-
tion and as a crowd-puller. It’s thought to have originated as a form of military training for elite
royal troops – probably in Persia, although many locals will tell you it started in the NA (polo is
Balti for ‘ball’). Teams may number up to 100 – virtual armies.
It certainly didn’t come cheap; major costs like the upkeep of ponies could eat up a siz-
able part of a mir’s (the region’s traditional ruler) annual budget. Today most tournaments are
government-supported.
The modern rules are relatively simple. Each team has six players. One of them begins the
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

game by taking a ball and stick in one hand and galloping up the field towards the other
team like a man possessed. At the halfway line he throws the ball up and, with a bit of skill,
hits it far towards the opposition’s goal. Horses foam at the bit, sticks clash together and
players hang off their mounts to get into the best position to smack the ball. Whenever play
nears the sidelines, spectators flee for their lives as balls and mallets fly through the air. The
aim is of course to score a goal, whereupon a band of drummers and pipers goes mad, and
the teams change ends.
Traditionally the game continues until one team has scored nine goals, but nowadays an hour’s
play with a 10- or 15-minute halftime break is the norm. If a horse or player is injured and forced
to retire, his opposite number must also leave the game.
Northern polo ponies are beautiful animals with astonishing stamina (there are no horse
changes), but mountain polo can be a cruel game. Horses are routinely hit or cut by balls mov-
ing at blinding speed, or by mallets. Apparently several horses drop dead of heart failure every
season, in the middle of games.
Following is a list of the best places and times to catch a game:
Gilgit, from April to early May and in October and November, especially the Uprising Day
tournament in the first week of November.
Skardu, especially the Pakistan Independence Day tournament in the second week of August.
Chitral, in late May or during the district tournament in mid-September.
Shandur Pass, the world’s highest polo ground, during the Chitral versus Gilgit tournament
each July. This dates from 1936, and has been an annual, heavily touristed event since 1989.
Most sizable travel agencies in Gilgit and Chitral and a number of national agencies now have
package tours, and their own Shandur encampments, for the event.

Golden Peak occupies the garden and old with basic and bearably grungy rooms and a
summer house of the mir (traditional ruler) smile at reception. But that’s about as much
of Nagyr. Unfortunately, the rooms in the old as can be said for it.
wing are too dark, damp and dingy to offer Madina Hotel & Guest House (%53536; www
a historically interesting nap. The bare ‘new’ .madinaguides.com; NLI Chowk; dm/d without bathroom
rooms are only marginally better. Rs 130/240, d Rs 340;i) With the perennially
New Tourist Cottage (%54255; Chinar Bagh Link Rd; obliging Yaqoob managing it, the Madina re-
camping Rs 50, dm/s/d Rs 100/170/250) As well as the mains the international travellers’ favourite.
cheap rates, one of the best aspects of this place Rooms vary but all are kept spotless. There’s
is the tranquil overgrown garden. The rooms a basic restaurant dishing up a few travel-
here are basic affairs with huge bathrooms ler favourites, and invaluable assistance with
with reliable hot water. All are kept clean. No onward transport, tours, trekking, visa exten-
longer Japanese run, the new manager, Israr, sions etc is generously provided. This is the
plans to keep the Japanese menu and library, home of the Madina Guides trekking and tour
and has promised to replace the very steep operation (see p274).
stairs that some guests find challenging. North Inn (%55545; Khomer Chowk; s/d Rs 250/350)
JSR Hotel (%52308; JSR Plaza; s/d Rs 200/300) The Travellers once gave high marks to the North
unadorned JSR is not the worst budget choice, Inn, but lack of patronage has seen standards
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G I L G I T R E G I O N • • G i l g i t T o w n 277

slip. The once pleasant garden is a shambles private and peaceful compound. There’s a
and overall there is a feeling of neglect here. standard PTDC restaurant, of course, and a
Cheaper rooms are available downstairs – basic information and travel desk.
make an offer. Rupal Inn (%55471; Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam Rd; s/d
Jamal Hotel (%53788; Airport Rd; s/d Rs 450/550) The Rs 1400/2000, deluxe Rs 1800/2550) This large 48-room
tidy doubles here are pretty good value and hotel is clearly designed for tour groups and
the attached Green Dragon Chinese restaurant makes for an exceptionally comfortable stay –
(see p278) does acceptable Chinese dishes. all the better if you negotiate a discount.
There’s a pleasant garden for barbecues as
MIDRANGE well as a multicuisine restaurant and coffee
shop. The carpeted, very spacious rooms

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Park Hotel (%53379; Airport Rd; s/d Rs 400/650, s/d deluxe
Rs 550/850) These rates make the standard rooms come with TVs and bathtubs and are the
good value but rooms in the old wing can be a roomiest in Gilgit.
bit gloomy, so inspect a few. Most rooms have Canopy Nexus (%51011; www.canopynexus.com; River
TVs and are well kept. The restaurant is also View Rd; d Rs 2000-5000; s) The ‘resort over the river’
gloomy but manages a few local dishes on top has funky cabins right on the riverbank. The
of the usual Chinese and Pakistani dishes. cabins are lavishly decorated and almost luxu-
Mir’s Lodge (%52875; Domyal Link Rd; s/d without TV rious but don’t quite hit the mark. The bath-
Rs 600/750, s/d with TV Rs 750/800) The TV-equipped rooms are tiny but adequate and the restaurant
rooms are downstairs and so are considerably is above average for Gilgit. Unfortunately, the
cooler in summer; in addition, some down- peculiar fish-shaped swimming pool was not
stairs rooms have double beds. All rooms functioning at the time of research.
have a telephone. There’s a decent restaurant
churning out Pakistani and Chinese meals. TOP END
oHorizon Guest House (%55288; www Gilgit Serena Hotel (%55894; fax 55900; Jutial; s/d
.losthorizontreks.com; Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam Rd; s/d/tr Rs 5500/6500; ai) Gilgit Serena is the best
Rs 900/1200/1400; i) This excellent guesthouse hotel in town, superbly sited above town and
with five spick-and-span rooms is run by trek- giving views across the valley to Rakaposhi
king guides Abdul Bari Rana and Ty Gordon, peak. The cosy, plush rooms have TV, phone
who also run Lost Horizon Treks & Tours and balcony views. The service is excellent,
(see p274) from here. It’s in a quiet area of breakfast is included in the tariff, and there
Jutial, about 400m east of Heli Chowk, set is a free shuttle bus for guests visiting the
well back from the road. Look for the large bazaar or catching a flight from the airport.
Family Health Hospital and then the sign to There’s an excellent restaurant (Dumani) and
the guesthouse. nightly barbecues in the garden are of interest
Hotel Riveria (%54184; River View Rd; s/d Rs to nonguests (see below).
1000/1300) This welcoming hotel is agree-
ably located down by the river in its own Eating
compound. The high-ceilinged older-style RESTAURANTS
rooms have been renovated and are great The most reliable (in terms of hygiene) res-
value. The downstairs rooms remain cool in taurants are in the popular hotels, where you
summer and the orchard/garden is a perfect may soon tire of seeing the usual suspects
peaceful retreat. on the menu. There is absolutely no alcohol
Gilgit Continental Hotel (%58231; River View Rd; s/d available in Gilgit, even in top-end hotels, so
Rs 1200/1600) The rooms here are spacious, cool don’t bother asking.
and clean, and some boast river views. There Salar Restaurant (Saddar Bazaar; mains Rs 30-160;
is a restaurant and occasional rooftop barbe- h9am-10pm) Has Pakistani standards and
cues with entertainment by local musicians in interesting ‘Chinese’ items – eg mantou
summer. Children under 12 years are free and (steamed buns) and strange but tasty fried
there are big discounts for long-term guests. noodles – in clean, low-key surroundings.
PTDC Chinar Inn (%54262; Chinar Garden Rd; s/d Rs Baig’s Restaurant (Airport Rd; mains Rs 35-160; h9am-
1300/1650, s/d deluxe Rs 1700/2000) The hospitable 10pm) Opposite JSR Plaza, Baig’s is gloomy
Chinar Inn has a range of older-style, large, but relatively clean, with good oily Pakistani
comfy fan-cooled rooms with TVs set in a dishes for those with strong constitutions.
 278 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • G i l g i t T o w n lonelyplanet.com

New Tourist Cottage (%54255; Chinar Bagh Link Askari Snacks (Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam Rd; h8am-
Rd; mains Rs 50-80) Although the Japanese owner 2pm & 4-10pm) You can grab a coffee (Rs 15) or
has left, the new manager is trying to keep the tea here and sit in the garden with limited
Japanese flavour flowing by reintroducing the shade and enjoy your bakery items. It is
Japanese set dinner (not operating at the time adjacent to Askari Bakery.
of research) and a selection of Japanese dishes.
Nonguests should make prior inquiries about SELF-CATERING
reserving a spot at the table. Stands on Airport Rd and on the approach
Horizon Guest House (%55288; Shahrah-e-Quaid-e- to the footbridge on Pul Rd sell fruit and
Azam Rd; mains Rs 80-200) If food is your thing, we vegetables, especially in the evening. A sabzi
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

recommend this guesthouse restaurant where mandi (vegetable market) is along the west
the Pakistani, Chinese and Continental dishes side of Jama Mosque. Apricots usually appear
are matched with several delicious Astori in June; apples, pomegranates, walnuts and
specialities such as chapsum (vegetable with Gilgit’s own peaches can be found in early
cheese, chicken or beef rolled into a chapati autumn. Fresh naan (flat bread) is sold right
and fried). It also serves environmentally from the tandoor (clay oven) in the sabzi
friendly filtered water. mandi and elsewhere, but it’s gone soon after
Green Dragon (Airport Rd; mains Rs 95-120) Jamal 9am and is available again in the evenings.
Hotel’s Chinese-decorated restaurant pro- Scattered along Gilgit’s main thorough-
duces OK Chinese dishes such as hot and sour fares are numerous dry fruit and nut trad-
chicken (Rs 120), sliced beef and ginger (Rs ers. Almonds from Gilgit, walnuts from
110) and laghman (noodles in broth; Rs 110), Dainyor, apricots from Hunza and grapes
but covers its bases by churning out Pakistani from Kashgar all make great staples for long
standards such as chicken karai (Rs 135). road trips and treks. Try Khan Bahadur’s
Dumani (% 55894; Gilgit Serena Hotel, Jutial; North Pole Traders (Airport Rd).
mains Rs 200-400) Based at Gilgit’s top hotel, Numerous bakeries and general stores have
Dumani has a wonderful vista and a good- biscuits, sweets, jam, cornflakes, soup mixes,
value menu with tasty Pakistani, Chinese long-life milk and juices, tinned cheese and
and Continental cuisine. If you have been pickles to spice up bland curries. Marshal Bakery
scrimping or trekking, this is the place to & General Store (Airport Rd) is particularly good, as
have a splurge – particularly at the all- are the Askari Bakeries. There’s a CSD super-
you-can-eat buffet lunch (Rs 500). Credit market behind Askari Bakery in Jutial.
cards are accepted. Popular barbecue nights You can buy dahi (yogurt) at general stores,
(Monday to Saturday) commence after 15 or one of the yogurt shops at the back of the
May, with locals and nonguests alike enjoy- sabzi mandi; say pita for drink here and jata
ing the first-rate food and garden ambience. for takeaway (Rs 12).
Also good value is the high tea buffet (Rs
220) on Sunday (3pm to 6pm) with a great Shopping
range of salads, hot dishes and desserts. CAMPING EQUIPMENT SALES & RENTAL
Other recommended hotel restaurants Karakoram Mountaineering Equipment (Airport
include those at Canopy Nexus (%51011; River Rd) Formerly known as Gown House (and maybe still
View Rd; mains Rs 100-250), where riverside seat- sporting the old sign).
ing makes up for the long wait; and Hotel Longlife Mountaineering Equipment (%53513;
Riveria (% 54184; River View Rd; mains Rs 80-195) Airport Rd) Sales and rental. The secondhand gear is
with its recommended alfresco barbecue shipped from Europe via Karachi and can be a good buy.
in summer. The new stuff is from China but is not ‘export quality’ so be
careful. Sleeping-bag hire is Rs 50 per day. Sold items may
CAFÉS & QUICK EATS be bought back at half price. Reasonable selection of down
Askari Bakery (Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam Rd; h8am-2pm jackets, stoves etc.
& 4-10pm) Catch a Suzuki (Rs 5) out to Askari Trekking Equipment & Gift Shop (%52457; c/o
Bakery beyond Jutial for good-value cakes, Madina Hotel & Guest House, NLI Chowk)
biscuits and bread as well as a range of gro-
ceries. There’s also a new branch at NLI HANDICRAFTS
Market. The 250g fruit/plain butter cakes for There’s a clutch of similar shops around
Rs 17/15 make ideal travel companions. Hunza Chowk that sell gemstones and old
lonelyplanet.com G I L G I T R E G I O N • • G i l g i t T o w n 279

musical instruments, as well as woollen hats at Madina Hotel & Guest House (see p275).
(Rs 60 to Rs 300) and waistcoats (Rs 250 to Rs Natco buses and Land Cruisers leave from
1000) that vary greatly in quality. An NA bar- the Natco bus yard (Punial Rd), which is hidden
gain is the durable, hand-woven wool (patti down the first laneway immediately behind
or pattu) of Hunza and Nagyr – coarse, thick the Kakakhel General Store. Natco fares for
and tight, with an uneven grain. Chitral and destinations west of Gilgit in-
Xama Stores (%54271; Airport Rd) By the Park clude the following:
Hotel, Xama has a dusty collection of old jew- Chitral (Rs 650, 16 hours) Ten-seat Land Cruiser at least
ellery, handicrafts, carpets and flintlocks. once a week in summer, usually Sunday. Alternative is a
daily minibus to Mastuj (Rs 360) where you can board a

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
PHOTOGRAPHY minibus to Chitral (Rs 130).
Hunza Computers (NLI Chowk) For ultra cheap memory Gakuch (Rs 60) On the Yasin or Gupis bus.
cards for cameras, burning to CD (Rs 100) etc. Gupis (Rs 90) Departure 9.30am.
Javed Digital Color Lab (Saddar Bazaar) Ishkoman (Rs 90) Departure 11am.
JJ Color Lab Kodak Express (NLI Chowk) Yasin (bus Rs 90) Departure 9.30am.

Getting There & Away Hunza, Nagyr & Gojal

AIR From the general bus stand, Tais Transport
PIA (%50348; Domyal Link Rd) also has an office at Service and Sargin Travel Service have
the airport (%50354). There are two flights to/ minibuses departing from 7am, stopping at
from Islamabad each day (one way Rs 3540), Karimabad (Rs 100), Gulmit (Rs 135), Passu
weather permitting. The waiting list can get (Rs 160) and Sost (Rs 185, five hours). Natco
very long in poor weather. Be sure to follow has one bus daily to Aliabad (Rs 80, depart-
the instructions outlined by the PIA office ing 7am), a short distance from Karimabad.
staff. It’s very important to check/confirm one
hour before your flight at the airport office or Rawalpindi
you won’t be on the manifest, which means From the general bus stand, buses (usually air-
you won’t be on the plane. con) bound for Rawalpindi can take anything
from 12 to 18 hours. Most terminate at the
BUS & MINIBUS chaotic Pir Wadhai bus stand.
The general bus stand is well out of town Mashabrum Tours (Rs 650) Daily departures noon, 3pm
near the intersection with the KKH. Most and 5pm.
long-distance buses terminate here. Catch a Natco (Rs 650 to Rs 800) Daily departures at 7am, 8am,
taxi (Rs 70 to Rs 80) or a Suzuki (Rs 8) to 1pm, 3pm, 5pm and 6pm. Different classes of vehicles leave
or from town. There are several companies at these times, ranging from rattle-trap bus to air-con
operating from here, some with booking of- Coaster.
fices in town. Sargin Travel Service (Rs 650) Daily 3pm Coaster service.
K-2 Tours (%51103) An office is just outside the gate
of the Madina Hotel & Guest House as well as at the Skardu
general bus stand. From the general bus stand, minibuses take
Mashabrum Tours (%53095; NLI Chowk) Also at the about six hours. Try to get a window seat
general bus stand (%52784). on the right-hand side (going to Skardu) for
Natco (%50684; Punial Rd) Also at the general bus heart-stopping views.
stand (%50435). K-2 Tours (Rs 200, six hours) Three departures daily from
Sargin Travel Service (%54591; General Bus Stand) 8am.
Silk Route Transport Company (%55234; General Mashabrum Tours (Rs 200) Three minibus departures
Bus Stand) 8am, 10am and noon.
Tais Transport Service (%55774, 033553926; Gen- Natco (Rs 130) Daily 9am minibus.
eral Bus Stand) A 24-hour operation that launches heavily
loaded minibuses up the KKH to Hunza, Nagyr and Gojal. Other Destinations & Options
Private transport (jeeps and minibuses) de-
Chitral, Punial, Ishkoman, Yasin & Ghizar parts from where people from outlying areas
Yaqub from Gupis travels to/from Chitral have their shops; eg Jamaat Khana Bazaar for
(about Rs 10,000 for up to four passengers) Hunza, lower Khazana Rd for Nagyr, Garhi
via the Shandur Pass and can be contacted Bagh for Haramosh and Bagrot, and Punial
 280 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • A r o u n d G i l g i t lonelyplanet.com

Rd for the upper Gilgit River basin. There are or hire a Suzuki for a three-hour return trip
minibuses (Rs 50) to Chalt/Minapin leaving (Rs 400). A 10-minute walk up the left-hand
from near the corner of Shaheed-e-Millat and side of Kargah Nala is Shuko Gah (Gah is
Khazana Rds after noon. Natco has a daily Shina for ‘stream’), and the Buddha is high
minibus (Rs 130) to Astor village leaving from above this gully. Local kids may ‘guide’ you
the general bus stand. there, but be careful – their short cuts can
Though it would mean passing through and include difficult scrambles.
missing the best that northern Pakistan has to Further up Shuko Gah is Napur village, the
offer, Natco’s daily bus to Kashgar (US$14 or ruins of a monastery and stupa, and a cave
rupee equivalent, 15 hours) leaves the general where Buddhist birch-bark texts (now called
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

bus stand at 6am. You need to book your the Gilgit Manuscripts) were found in the
ticket the day before. Note that the service 1930s. Cave is kor in Shina. A return option
operates from 1 May to the end of December with good valley views is to continue on this
(snow levels permitting); that is, beyond the high path to Barmas village, and then back
dates that non-Pakistani/Chinese foreigners down into Gilgit.
may cross the Khunjerab Pass (1 May to 15
November). At the time of writing Natco and Jutial Nala & Taj Mughal’s Monument
the Chinese had agreed to allow returning A fairly easy hike from Jutial along a high
buses to carry passengers and so every alter- water channel gives a fine panorama of the
nate day the bus is a Chinese bus not a Natco valley, plus Rakaposhi and other peaks. Take
bus. If you can organise it, the Natco bus (and a Jutial Suzuki from Saddar Bazaar to the end
drivers) is the better (safer) option. of the line, below Gilgit Serena Hotel. Half a
kilometre uphill past Gilgit Serena, turn right
FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE RENTAL and then left up the nala. Climb till you see a
For jeep or minibus rental, ask the travel agen- stream going off to the right – the headworks
cies (see p274), or your hotel-wallah. At the of the water channel.
time of research, you could hire a 4WD to Several kilometres along the channel, you
Skardu or Sost for about Rs 6000. can scramble 100m up to Taj Mughal’s monu-
ment. At Barmas village, near some water
Getting Around tanks, descend Hospital Rd into Gilgit. The
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT hike from Gilgit Serena Hotel to the bazaar
The cheapest means is a passenger Suzuki to takes under two hours. A variation is to climb
Airport Chowk (Rs 8), plus a 10-minute walk into Jutial Nala, then two hours up to pine for-
to the airport from there. A hired Suzuki is Rs ests and excellent Rakaposhi views. Another
60. Several hotels have free airport transfers. is to continue on the channel to Napur and
the Kargah Buddha.
BICYCLE These walks are extremely hot in July and
Mountain bikes are rented out at Shehnaz Cycle August. If there have been more than a few
Co (%50913; Hunza Chowk) for Rs 300 per day. hours of rain in recent days, stay away: the
hillsides are very prone to rockslides.
PASSENGER SUZUKIS
Passenger Suzukis go to Jutial and the general Dainyor
bus stand (Rs 8) from in front of the post of- A virtual ‘suburb’ of Gilgit and perhaps
fice at Saddar Bazaar, and to Dainyor from the Pakistan’s southernmost Ismaili village,
east end of Garhi Bagh. They can be flagged Dainyor makes a relaxing day trip. From
down anywhere, but not beyond 9pm. Suzukis Saddar Bazaar, Suzukis go to Dainyor Bazaar
also run west from Punial Rd. on the KKH via suspension bridges.
Overlooking the Hunza River is a shrine
AROUND GILGIT to a 17th- or 18th-century Shiite preacher
Kargah Buddha & Kargah Nala named Sultan Alib. Get off the Suzuki when
A Buddhist survivor, the large standing it tops the climb on the east side of the Hunza
Buddha carved on a cliff face in Kargah Nala, River, doubling back by foot on a path above
west of Gilgit, may date from the 7th century. the road.
From Punial Rd, it’s a 5km hike. Alternatively, From Dainyor Bazaar it’s 1.5km south on
you can jump off a minibus to Baseen (Rs 12) the KKH to a melancholy cemetery (on the left
lonelyplanet.com G I L G I T R E G I O N • • N a l t a r Va l l e y 281

behind a large gate) with the graves of Chinese Gilgit call this one the loveliest. Its postcard
KKH workers. alpine scenery is accessible for overnight trips,
There is a rock in Dainyor village with or even a fast day trip by jeep from Gilgit, and
Sanskrit inscriptions about 7th- and 8th- it gets crowded in summer.
century Tibetan rulers. It’s located on private The valley meets the Hunza River at
property and you may be asked for a few Nomal, 25km north of Gilgit, where a bridge
rupees to see it. From the bazaar, go 1km makes a short cut to the KKH. Soon a jeep
north on the KKH to a jeep road on the right. road strikes left and climbs a rocky canyon,
Up the road, after just less than a kilometre, passing a relaxed police checkpoint and a
start to ask for ‘old writing stone’ – likitu hydro power scheme beside the Naltar River.
giri in Shina. After 6km to 7km you pass Lower Naltar

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
village (kilini Naltar in Shina, the local
NALTAR VALLEY speech), and a further 5km to 6km brings
Naltar was the Gilgit Agency’s hill station, you to ajini Naltar (Upper Naltar) at about
where the British administrators retreated 3000m. Here the valley opens out and begins
when the summer heat grew oppressive. Most to look alpine. Across the river is a Pakistan
of the guides who know the valleys around Air Force winter survival school.

NALTAR VALLEY & PUNIAL 0

0
10 km
6 miles

To Imit
(25km)
i er

c See Chalt & Around Map (p297)

Pakora
la
(Phakor) zG

Garamasai N
Ba j G a
Bar
Pakora Pass
Chatorkhand (4710m)
Upper Daintar
Shani Daintar Pass
Dain
ala
y

(4800m) tar Na
lle

la
Va

North ha Lower
(5798m) S ni Gl a Shani
Snow Dome
ci
Ba
an

Twin (5029m) Ch
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apr
Na
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Peaks ot
Va

Chaprot
lta South Shani Peak Lath
lle

Pass Valle
r
Ish

(5700m) (5887m) y
y

Gupa Merhbani
(5639m) Chalt
(5235m) M Shing KKH
ou Naltar
nt Lake To Karimabad
River

(5234m) ai
(4954m) (30km)
ns
Na

Bangla
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Gakuch Beshgiri
a
Va

Khaltar
nz

PUNIAL Upper
lle

To Yasin (5454m)
Hu

Bubar Naltar
Na

(80km); (Jagot)
lta

Ghizar (100km);
r

Chitral (290km)
Lower
Gi Sasal Khand Ri Naltar
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t (5001m) r
Singhal Japukay
River Naltar Rahimabad
Sherqila (4678m)
Nomal
Bridge
Golapur Bargo
KK
H

Sultanabad

Hanzal
Baseen
la

Dainyor
Na

Kargah
uko Gah

Gilgit
Sh

To Jaglot
(37km)
 282 G I L G I T R E G I O N • • Pu n i a l , I s h k o m a n , Ya s i n & G h i z a r Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

From Upper Naltar it’s a beautiful 12km women are Ismailis, who dress in bright
hike on a bad jeep road up to Naltar Lake colours and pillbox caps, and are unveiled
and dense pine forests. No guide is necessary. in public.
Beyond this are more pastures and summer The old valley kingdoms are Punial (poon-
settlements. See p350 for a description of yaal), above Gilgit; Ishkoman (eesh-ko-man),
a five-day walk over the Pakora Pass from entering from the north about 80km up the
Upper Naltar. Gilgit River; Yasin (ya-seen), which enters at
about 110km; and Ghizar (ghuh-zr), stretch-
Sleeping & Eating ing west to the Shandur Pass into Chitral.
There’s no accommodation at Lower Naltar, They now comprise Ghizar district, hived off
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

while Upper Naltar has several seasonal op- from Gilgit district in 1989, with its headquar-
tions. The most reliable (in terms of being ters at Gakuch.
open in the shoulder seasons) and friendly is The mountains are the Hindu Raj, an
the modest Hilltop Hotel (%05811-57011; camping/ arm of the Hindukush (to geographers,
tent d Rs 50/100, d Rs 250) with three, very unpreten- the Karakoram Range only begins east of
tious double rooms, a permanent tent and a Ishkoman). The lower reaches are hot in
garden where you can pitch your own tent. summer and unexceptional to look at, but
There’s no running water but a bucket of hot the upper valleys are grandly beautiful. The
water is available in the morning. Other ho- route is dotted with ancient petroglyphs of
tels nearby include the 4 View and ‘three-star ibex and other animals.
deluxe’ Palace Hotel, which were not open at Most overlanders who pass through are
the time of research. on their way to/from Chitral – one of the
On the west side of the valley is a very best cheap adventures in the NA is to drive
popular NAPWD resthouse (d standard/VIP Rs 300/500). this scenic road. Though there’s still plenty
Gujar kids with sticky fingers mean the hotel of rough gravel, and there are some long hills
gardens are the safest place for camping. Only between villages, a few intrepid cyclists have
basic meals, which taste pretty good at this ridden it. You need to carry food and a tent.
elevation, will be available.
During the summer (usually from June to Getting There & Away
September) a couple of camp sites with kitch- Buses and minibuses leave daily (usually in
ens open at Naltar Lake. the morning) from Natco’s Punial Rd bus
yard in Gilgit for Gupis (Rs 90, six hours),
Getting There & Around Ishkoman (Pakora; Rs 80, six to seven hours)
At least two or three passenger jeeps leave and Yasin (Rs 90, six to seven hours). For
Gilgit’s general bus stand each afternoon Gakuch (Rs 60, four hours) catch either the
for Naltar (Rs 60), but be sure yours goes to Yasin or Gupis buses.
Upper Naltar or be prepared to hike up from Less predictable are cargo and passenger
Lower Naltar. Gilgit to Upper Naltar takes jeeps leaving from shops along Punial Rd in
two to 2½ hours by jeep. A special hire was Gilgit. Ask at Kakakhel General Store about
Rs 2500 return at the time of research. Most Gupis, Phander and Teru. For Ishkoman, you
Gilgit travel agencies have Naltar packages. can ask in Gakuch (at the auto-parts shop
At Upper Naltar you may be able to hire a opposite the Snowdrop Inn) about jeeps to
horse for a day trip or overnight trip to Naltar Chatorkhand and Imit. On most days, cargo
Lake; ask your hotel-wallah. jeeps go from Gupis to Phander and/or Teru.
To get to the Shandur Pass or to continue
PUNIAL, ISHKOMAN, YASIN & GHIZAR on to Chitral, Natco runs a 10-seat Land
The Gilgit River basin upstream of Gilgit is a Cruiser at least once a week (Rs 650 to Chitral,
paradise for trekkers and anglers. Once a nest 16 hours) in summer from Gilgit (Punial
of small feuding kingdoms, it’s still a surpris- Rd). Alternatively, there’s a daily minibus to
ing patchwork of people and languages, with Mastuj (Rs 360), from where you can board a
hardly any settlement big enough to be called minibus to Chitral (Rs 130). Readers continu-
a town. The population is 80% to 85% Ismaili ally praise the Gilgit–Chitral service offered
(it was through here that Ismailism arrived by ‘Driver Yaqub’ from Gupis who can be
from Afghanistan). Most others are Sunni, contacted at Madina Hotel & Guest House
with some Shiites in Yasin. The only visible (%05811-53536). The cost is about Rs 10,000
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G I L G I T R E G I O N • • Pu n i a l , I s h k o m a n , Ya s i n & G h i z a r 283

for four people and all their gear. If you can in the grounds with permission from the chief
afford it, the most reliable option is to hire a engineer (%05811-50307) in Gilgit.
jeep and driver in Gilgit from a travel agency
such as Travel Walji’s (see p274). The Shandur Ishkoman
Pass is usually open from June to late October, Chatorkhand, 25km from Gakuch, is the tra-
and it is not unknown for travellers to resort ditional seat of the pir of Chatorkhand, head
to several hours’ walking through snow in of a line of hereditary religious leaders who
May to ‘get to the other side’. came from Bukhara in Central Asia in the
early 19th century.
Punial Ishkoman is best known for treks; see p350.
The road hugs the Gilgit River, a swift opal-

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Other treks go west to Yasin; for details see
blue stream in autumn and a silty torrent fed Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Karakoram
by melting glaciers in summer. At Sherqila, & Hindukush.
about 40km from Gilgit, there’s a police
checkpoint on the road, though the village SLEEPING
is across the river. Singhal, 53km from Gilgit, At Chatorkhand, you’ll find the basic Zuhaib
has an Aga Khan Health Services Pakistan Guesthouse (%05814-58100; d Rs 300). Chatorkhand
(AKHSP) hospital. Singhal Gah is a well- and Imit (which is about 30km beyond
known trout reach. Chatorkhand) both have NAPWD resthouses (d
The valley broadens at the district head- Rs 300), booked via the chief engineer (%05811-
quarters of Gakuch (also with good trout fish- 50307) in Gilgit.
ing), where, 12km beyond Singhal, there’s
a suspension bridge across the Gilgit River Yasin
servicing the road up the Ishkoman Valley. The Yasin and Ghizar Rivers join near Gupis
Gakuch itself is a further 5km beyond the to form the Gilgit River. Across a Chinese-
turn-off. There’s little reason to stop except to built bridge and 25km north of Gupis is Yasin
catch onwards transport. Just beyond Gakuch village. From here it’s about 40km to the val-
yawns the impressive mouth of the Ishkoman ley’s highest village, Darkot, beyond which is
Valley. As you continue up beside the Gilgit the Darkot Pass (a restricted trekking zone)
River, keep an eye open for ancient petro- into Chitral’s upper Yarkhun Valley.
glyphs chipped into the dark shiny rocks. The By the time he died in 1857, Yasini ruler
villages are resplendent in autumn colours Gohar Aman held everything down to Astor,
in October. but six years later Kashmiri soldiers retook
it all, and massacred some 1200 people at
SLEEPING & EATING Yasin village.
Ghizar Tourist Cottage (%05814-58032; d Rs 600) At
Singhal, the welcoming Ghizar Tourist Cottage SLEEPING
has plans to expand to 12 rooms. It has a very Yasin village has an NAPWD resthouse (d Rs
pleasant garden shaded by fruit trees, and an 300), and a few kilometres north at Taus is a
unusually plush dining hall (mains Rs 80 to small serai.
Rs 90).
Hotel Green Palace ( % 05814-51121; s/d Rs Ghizar
1000/1500) The best accommodation in Gakuch This ruggedly beautiful valley meets the Yasin
can be found west of the bazaar at the Green Valley at Gupis, 40km up the Gilgit River from
Palace, with its comfortable stone cottages Gakuch (the valley is sometimes called Gupis
(divided into two private rooms) and fishy- too). Ghizar is the best place between Gilgit
sounding Trout Restaurant (mains Rs 85 to and Chitral to put up your feet. Gupis has a
Rs 170). post office and digital phone exchange.
Other options in Gakuch are rather scruffy Just beyond Gupis (about 9km) is Khalti Lake
and include the Hill Haven (%05814-51110; s/d (a natural dam on the Ghizar River) and the
Rs 200/250), east of the bazaar, and the central small village of Jhandrot. About a three-hour
Karim Guesthouse and Three Star Hotel drive beyond Gupis, the road crosses the river
& Restaurant. at the village of Chashi and rises through a vast
Golapur and Singhal have heavily used graveyard. About 60km from Gupis, where
NAPWD resthouses (d Rs 300), where you can camp the valley opens wide, is Phander (fun-dr), a
 284 B A LT I S TA N Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

picture-postcard place to break the journey. the west end of Phander bazaar is the small
Flour milled locally from wheat grown in the seasonal Tourist Inn (d Rs 200) with cheaper beds
low-terraced fields here has a reputation for in tents, and charpoys.
producing excellent chapatis. Horses can be Teru has only a sublimely primitive NAPWD
hired at Phander for local trips. If you want to resthouse (d Rs 300), while at Barsat there is Hotel
linger, the places to do it are Phander and Teru Barsat (thin mattress on wooden platform Rs 100) with
(3100m high, 22km from Phander). rustic dorm accommodation and prices inclu-
An hour on from Phander at Gulagmuli vil- sive of dinner and breakfast. There are plenty
lage, Hundrup Gol (gol meaning ‘canyon’), of blankets – and you will need them in spring
with its world-class trout stream, gapes to or autumn – but not much food. Bring your
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

the south. With the Shandur Pass area, this own provisions or enjoy the potatoes!
canyon forms Shandur-Hundrup National
Park (see right). Shandur Pass
A short distance (about 5km) beyond Teru The 3810m Shandur Pass, 50km from Phander
is the small village of Barsat, the last village and 108km back to Gupis, is actually broad
before the Shandur Pass. Beyond Barsat is the enough to have several lakes and a polo
broad, picturesque Langar Valley where yaks ground where the best players from Gilgit
graze and people cut peat for winter fuel. and Chitral meet every July, part of a three-
or four-day festival of polo and merrymaking
SLEEPING & EATING (see the boxed text, p276).
In Gupis, Kakakhel Hotel (tr Rs 300), with two With Hundrup Gol, the Shandur Pass area
basic triple rooms, is at the west end of the vil- forms the 518-sq-km Shandur-Hundrup National
lage. Central Snow Leopard Inn (%05815-55070; s/d Park (see p68). It was declared a national park
Rs 150/250) is a good restaurant with some very in 1993, partly in the hope of keeping an envi-
basic rooms in a separate building, behind and ronmental lid on the polo tournament and the
underneath the bazaar shops. Gupis also has mess left by its 12,000-plus spectators. Visitors
an NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300). will find nothing to indicate its boundaries.
With great views upvalley to Khalti Lake For details of the road and towns on the
as well as downvalley, the PTDC Motel Gupis Chitral side of the Shandur, see p233.
(%05813-58071; s/d Rs 1200/1500) is strikingly situ-
ated about 8km beyond Gupis. The spacious,
comfortable rooms, decent restaurant and
friendly manager combine with the views to
BALTISTAN
make this a memorable place to stay. Down Rising in Tibet, as one of the four sacred
by the lake is Lake View Hotel (%05813-58050; dm/d rivers, the Indus flows northwest almost to
Rs 50/350), apparently a favourite with anglers. Gilgit, in a deep trough dividing the Himalaya
It has OK doubles with hot water but an at- from the Karakoram, and the Indian sub-
mosphere of neglect. The dorm has an outside continent from Asia. Before turning south it
bathroom and no hot water. At the nearby drains Baltistan, or ‘Little Tibet’, an arid land
small bazaar of Jhandrot you can purchase inhabited by people who today speak classi-
seasonal fruit and vegetables. cal Tibetan and in the 17th century were the
About 2km east of Phander bazaar, over- masters of Chitral, the NA and Ladakh.
looking Phander Lake, is a wonderfully sited Buddhism probably came to Baltistan in
NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300). Across the road, the 3rd century with Gandharan missionar-
Over the Lake Hotel & Restaurant (d in tent Rs 150, d Rs ies, and again when it was part of the Tibetan
300) has one tent and three comfortable and empire in the 8th and 9th centuries. Islam
clean double rooms, which share a toilet and arrived in the 15th century, probably via
a cold-water tap. The owner, who is one of Kashmir. Baltistan then consisted of several
the chowkidars for the resthouse, can provide small kingdoms; the most important were
basic, inexpensive meals or cook your provi- Rondu and Skardu on the Indus, Khaplu,
sions. The PTDC Motel Phander (%05813-58071; s/d Shigar and Astor. Skardu’s Maqpon dynasty
Rs 1200/1500) is nicely situated by the lake and gradually absorbed the others.
shares management with PTDC Motel Gupis. Near the Balti capital of Skardu the Indus is
The usual spacious rooms, clean bedding and joined by the Shigar and Shyok Rivers, flowing
workable restaurant make it a good choice. At down from the Baltoro Muztagh, a segment
 0 10 km
BALTISTAN 0 6 miles
Dassu To Chuk Biafo Baltoro
Chakpo Foljo Glacier Glacier

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lonelyplanet.com

(7821m) S S I
MA MAS
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(4724m)
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ara
s

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Lungma

Sa
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River of Control
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To Deosai Plains;
Katichu La
Ali Malik (4588m) To Line of Control (50km)
Gudai; Astor (95km) Mar (Ladakh) (30km)
B A LT I S TA N 285

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
 286 B A LT I S TA N • • T h e G i l g i t t o S k a r d u R o a d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

of the Karakoram backbone containing the there’s a brief view ahead to Rakaposhi’s south
densest mass of glaciers and high mountains face. Fifteen minutes later the Indus is at its
on earth, including 8611m K2, second only to northernmost point. Another 15 minutes on
Mt Everest. Naturally, there are unparalleled (27km from the KKH) is the fuel stop of Sassi,
opportunities for trekking and mountaineer- a green island in a sea of crumbling rocks.
ing, and it is the escalating impacts of these With its size, desolation and the nonstop
activities that led to the establishment in 1993 foaming fury of the Indus, the gorge from here
of the 9738-sq-km Central Karakoram National south is simply awesome. Where there are no
Park (p68). This is by far Pakistan’s biggest bridges, people still cross by pulling themselves
protected area, stretching north into Gojal, hand over hand in a sphincter-puckering
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

west to Haramosh and Rakaposhi, south al- contraption consisting of a platform hung
most to Skardu and Khaplu, and east to the from a pulley on a single cable, often hundreds
crest of the High Karakoram. of metres above the river. At the truck stop
Until an air route was opened from of Thangus, 53km from the KKH, look across
Islamabad in the 1960s, Baltistan remained the river for miners scraping out a living by
almost medieval in its isolation. From 1972 to burrowing into the mountain’s quartz veins
1985, simultaneous with construction of the for crystals.
KKH, Pakistan Army Engineers cut a road up Another 7km further on is a popular trav-
the Indus that is more formidable than most ellers’ stop at the basic Midway Hotel and,
of the KKH. across the road, PTDC Astak, about 89km
The poorly defined northern end of the from Skardu. About 3½ hours from the KKH
Line of Control tempted India in 1982 to (2½ hours from Skardu) is the regional centre
send troops onto the Siachen Glacier in Thowar. Across the river is Mendi, capital of
Baltistan’s eastern corner, which Pakistan the ancient Rondu kingdom. Below Basho the
regards as part of the NA. The two coun- canyon opens into the vast Skardu Valley, and
tries have militarised the area, skirmishing an hour later you’re in Skardu bazaar.
repeatedly in what has come to be called ‘the In good weather the 170km trip takes six
highest war on earth’. to seven hours, with at least two police check-
But away from this off-limits zone, amid points. In rainy weather (eg summer storms
awesome scenery, are world-class treks, two and winter drizzle) multiple slides may block
national parks and villages that seem hardly it completely.
touched by the 21st century. Nearly everyone
is Shiite Muslim and not a woman is visible Sleeping & Eating
in Skardu. Men and women visitors alike PTDC Motel Astak (s/d Rs 1200/1500) If you need a
should dress conservatively; shorts are out, room there are four very comfortable dou-
and even bare arms put orthodox backs up. bles here. Breakfast is served from 6.30am to
Many people of Shigar and Khaplu belong 9.30am, lunch from 11am to 3pm and dinner
to the Nurbakhshi branch of Islam, whose from 6pm to 10pm. Mains cost Rs 90 to Rs
women are unveiled and as open and brightly 120, and a buffet lunch is Rs 350.
dressed as the Ismailis of Hunza. Midway Hotel & Restaurant (snacks Rs 20-50)
The tourist season is April to October. Minibuses tend to stop for a toilet break here,
Midsummer is hot in Skardu; it’s also prime where you can have a cup of tea, stretch your
mountaineering season, so jeeps and hotel legs and have a look at a couple of rock shops.
space may be hard to find. You can fly in from It’s a good idea to bring your own snacks and
Islamabad even in winter, though schedules water rather than rely on the offerings here.
are very unpredictable and only a few hotels Thowar has an NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300).
still operate then.
SKARDU
THE GILGIT TO SKARDU ROAD %05831
Thirty-eight kilometres south of Gilgit, the The Indus barely seems to move across the
road to Skardu (170km) leaves the KKH and immense, flat Skardu Valley, 40km long,
crosses a bridge and a spit of rock into the 10km wide and carpeted with silvery grey
upper Indus Valley. Ten minutes from the sand dunes. In between dust storms the land
bridge is a perfect panorama of the entire seems cleansed and freeze-dried, and the light
Nanga Parbat massif, and shortly afterwards is intense. The brown mountains give no hint
lonelyplanet.com B A LT I S TA N • • S k a r d u 287

of the white giants beyond. Skardu, at 2290m, uprising against the Maharaja of Kashmir,
is on a ledge at the foot of Karpochu, a rock and Hussaini Chowk, near the 17th-century
sticking 300m out of the plain. aqueduct. The cheaper hotels are near Yadgar.
The town has been a mountaineers’ haunt Government offices are well east or south of
for over 150 years, and a military headquar- the bazaar. The airport is 12km west on the
ters since Partition, but it’s also the base for road to Gilgit.
many classic Karakoram treks (introduced in
the Trekking in Northern Pakistan chapter; Information
see p331), and even some good day trips. There is a PTDC (%50291; PTDC K2 Motel), but
Midsummer is prime mountaineering sea- you’ll probably get as much information
son, when jeeps and hotel space may be hard from your hotel. The National Bank (Naya

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
to find. Walking and trekking can be pleas- Bazaar) near Yadgar Chowk will change cash
ant even in October, when prices start to and travellers cheques, but you can also
fall and the weather is clear and cold. From change cash with moneychangers and other
November to March, temperatures drop banks. There is no ATM in Skardu. Beside
to freezing. the government telephone exchange (Kazmi Bazaar;
Hotels get booked out in the second week h7am-12.30am) is a police post. The post of-
of August, when Skardu hosts a big tourna- fice, PIA and Pakistan army base are well
ment of Baltistan’s polo teams to celebrate east of the bazaar.
Pakistan’s Independence Day. Theoretically, Baltistan’s NAPWD rest-
houses can be booked via the Skardu and
Orientation Ghanche district chief engineers in Skardu,
Along the main road is Naya (New) Bazaar but you’d probably have better luck with the
and in the back streets the more interest- chief engineer (%05811-50307) in Gilgit. Or try
ing Purana (Old) Bazaar. Reference points your luck without a booking, but be ready to
are Yadgar Chowk, with a monument to the camp in the gardens if necessary.

SKARDU 0
0
800 m
0.5 miles

A B To Fort C D
To Airport (12km); Karpochu
Kachura Lake (30km);
KKH (130km); Gilgit (160km)
19
1 Colle 27
11
ge Rd Graveyard
23 29
21 22
25 Hussaini Polo
20 30 Yadgar 15 2 7 Chowk
3 Naya Ground
Chowk Baz Mosque
aar
28
31

Purana
Bazaar 18 Chashma
Bazaar
Kaz
Old Aqueduct
Link Rd

Mosque
mi

24 Hamid 16
8 10 Bazaar 6 Ghar
26 Ha
INFORMATION 32 mid
2 Comsats.............................................1 C2
12 17
5 9
Mosque 4
Gh 13
1 ar
NAPWD Chief Engineer......................2 B1 Rd
14 Hospita
National Bank.....................................3 B1 l Rd
Nazir Sabir Expeditions office.............4 D2
Satpara Rd

To Shigar (25km);
Police.................................................5 C2 Khaplu (90km)
Post Office.........................................6 C2
To NAPWD Baltoro
PTDC Office...................................(see 24) Resthouse (2.5km);
Soneri Bank.........................................7 B1 SLEEPING Satpara Lake (9km)
Telephone Exchange..........................8 C2 Baltistan Tourist Cottage...................15 B1
Concordia Motel..............................16 D2 EATING
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Dewan-e-Khas.................................17 C2 Askari Bakery...................................26 C2
Adventure Travel...........................(see 23) Hilton International Hotel & United Bakery...................................27 A1
Ali Haider Sadpara.........................(see 15) Restaurant....................................18 B2 Vegetable Market.............................28 B1
Italian K2 Museum.........................(see 24) Hotel Sadpara International..............19 A1
3 Khurpa Care.......................................9 C2 Hunza Inn 5 Brothers........................20 A1 TRANSPORT
Longlife Mountaineering Equipment..10 C2 Indus Motel......................................21 A1 K-2 Tours.......................................(see 18)
Qatal Gah.........................................11 B1 Karakoram Inn..................................22 B1 Mashabrum Tours.............................29 B1
Raja’s Palace.....................................12 B2 Mashabrum Hotel.............................23 A1 Natco...............................................30 A1
Skardu DC’s Office.......................... 13 D2 PTDC K2 Motel................................24 D2 Passenger Jeeps to Shigar..................31 B1
Travel Walji's................................... 14 D2 Skardu Inn........................................25 A1 PIA Booking Office...........................32 C2
 288 B A LT I S TA N • • S k a r d u Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

There is one internet café, Comsats (Kazmi Ali Haider Sadpara (%53046; alihaider_mountain
Bazaar; per hr Rs 60) and numerous PCOs scat- [email protected]) A small operation for budget travellers
tered throughout the town. with gear available for hire. Make inquiries at the Baltistan
Tourist Cottage.
Sights & Activities Khurpa Care (%55140; [email protected]; 1st
KARPOCHU fl, Abbas Market, Kazmi Bazaar) Trekkers and climbers
Ali Sher Khan probably built the fort (admis- should avail themselves of the organisation dedicated to
sion Rs 50) on the east end of this rock in the the welfare of the Balti porters, known as khurpas (Balti for
17th century, but the Dogras trashed and re- carrier). Pick up tips on how to hire khurpas responsibly,
built it. It’s a half-hour climb to the partly or ensure your trekking company does likewise, as well as
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

reconstructed fort, from where there are donate equipment or money.

fine valley views. The path starts beside the Longlife Mountaineering Equipment (%50583;
Hilton International Hotel. From the polo Kazmi Bazaar) For last-minute equipment sales and hire,
ground, there is a track around the base of but don’t expect top-shelf gear.
the rock. Knock and yell for assistance if the Travel Walji’s (%50935; www.waljis.com; Satpara Rd)
fort door is closed. Virtually a branch of the Gilgit office, this is a good place to
You can get to the summit (and the ruins inquire about jeep safaris across the Deosai Plains.
of more fortifications, and amazing views)
by a steep, dry, three-hour scramble up the Sleeping
west end of the rock from near the Hotel BUDGET
Sadpara International. Take care, as this Baltistan Tourist Cottage (%52707; btciqbal@yahoo
route has some false paths taking you near .com; Naya Bazaar; dm/s/d/tr Rs 70/100/200/250; i)
unprotected and dangerous drops. Easily the best budget hotel in town with clean
rooms, good food and manager Mohammad
QATAL GAH Iqbal, a great source of budget-minded help.
The brightly painted complex behind the This is also the home of Ali Haider, a recom-
Baltistan Tourist Cottage includes a mosque, mended mountain guide.
an imam barga (a hall used during Shiite festi- Hunza Inn 5 Brothers (%52570; College Rd; d Rs
vals of Ashura and Chelum) and a huge grave- 200) The run-down, rather filthy rooms with
yard. It’s said to be a little replica of one in Iraq. squat toilet and cold shower make this option
Except during the two festivals, foreigners can a last resort.
visit if they’re conservatively dressed. Karakoram Inn (%55438; Naya Bazaar; s/d Rs 200/400)
This hotel, close to Yadgar Chowk, has unex-
ITALIAN K2 MUSEUM ceptional doubles and a restaurant is attached.
The huge tent in the garden of the PTDC K2 Not very welcoming to foreigners.
Motel was set up in 2004 to commemorate the Hilton International Hotel & Restaurant (%55581;
first successful summiting of K2 by an Italian Naya Bazaar; s/d/tr Rs 300/500/1000) The cheekily
expedition in 1954. There are numerous in- named Hilton is not quite five star and the
teresting photos documenting this expedition rooms have deteriorated and are overpriced.
as well as previous expeditions into remote Be careful of the switches and wiring if you
Baltistan. Well worth a look. do stay here.
Hotel Sadpara International (%52951; College Rd;
TREKKING & TOURING s/d Rs 300/600) Unfortunately, the simple rooms,
Many people come to Skardu already booked a few doubles with TV, and restaurant are all
on an adventure; however, it’s certainly pos- looking very neglected and unkempt.
sible to organise or join a trek or jeep safari Three kilometres south of the bazaar is the
once you are here. Virtually everyone run- NAPWD Baltoro resthouse (d Rs 300), but public
ning a hotel also has family connections in transport is nonexistent.
the adventure travel industry. The following
agencies/guides are recommended: MIDRANGE
Adventure Travel (%50935, 03469558819; www Indus Motel (%52608; [email protected]; College
.adventure-touroperator.com; 1 College Rd) Organises nu- Rd; s/d Rs 400/600; i) The Indus, west of Yadgar
merous treks, including fixed departures (check the website), Chowk, is a great-value midrange hotel with
and has a relaxing ‘base camp’ at Kachura Lake. The office is spotless doubles, some with squat toilet and
on the main road near the entrance to Mashabrum Hotel. others with sit-down flush toilet. There’s a
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels B A LT I S TA N • • S k a r d u 289

VIP room out the back with TV, carpet and featuring a small selection of Balti dishes in
good views for Rs 700. The restaurant here is addition to the extensive Pakistani, Chinese
very good and the staff are very experienced and Continental offerings. Try the excellent
with travel and trekking information. They local soup of barley, black bean and lentil in
also do money exchange. mutton broth, and the whole fried trout if it’s
Skardu Inn (%54086; College Rd; s/d Rs 450/650) This available. There are also barbecue and several
skinny, high-rise hotel was being renovated at vegetarian dishes.
the time of research and the rooms with TVs Mashabrum Hotel (%50395; hotelmashabrum@yahoo
should be worth inspecting. .com; College Rd; mains Rs 120-350; h7am-10pm) This
Concordia Motel (%52582; fax 52547; Hospital Rd; s/d large hotel has Skardu’s most extensive
Rs 1000/1200, s/d deluxe Rs 1800/2000; i) A little fur- Pakistani, Chinese and Continental menu,

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
ther from the bazaar and with a similar view featuring speciality dishes such as the mouth-
of the Indus River to the PTDC, Concordia watering, slow-cooked beef nahari, mutton
has good-value standard rooms, though check leg roast and chicken handi (in gravy).
the mattress for comfort. The deluxe rooms Other decent hotel restaurants include the
in the new wing are fabulous, with excellent budget Baltistan Tourist Cottage (mains Rs 50-80)
views. The management here are very helpful with good chips, omelettes and mutton karai,
and can organise jeep safaris, day trips and and the midrange Indus Motel (mains Rs 60-100)
overnight jaunts. with a tasty chicken rice pilau (Rs 75), as well
oDewan-e-Khas (%55494; www.dewanekhas as Pakistani and Chinese standards.
.com.pk; Raja Rd; s/d Rs 1000/1500) This friendly hotel Skardu is hard work for vegetarians, but
is one of the few in Skardu to remain open there’s fruit in summer, and many general
year-round. The plush, carpeted rooms are stores and bakeries. United Bakery (Yadgar Chowk)
warm and comforting with satellite TV and has baked goods, but also plenty of packaged
bathrooms featuring bathtubs and showers. groceries, drinks etc. Head to Askari Bakery
There are only four double rooms at present (Chashma Bazaar) for fresher bread, cakes and
but there are plans for expansion. A major biscuits.
advantage of staying here is the excellent res-
taurant (see below), which is probably the Getting There & Away
best in Skardu. AIR
PTDC K2 Motel (%50291; fax 50293; s/d Rs 1350/1800, PIA (%50284, airport 58150; Chasma Bazaar) flies
s/d deluxe Rs 1960/2350) Most of the rooms are huge Boeing 737s to Islamabad (Rs 2700) daily at
and comfortable, though the plumbing is dia- 11.20am (weather permitting), with views
bolical so check the shower before you settle right across the Karakoram. The Islamabad
in. The location is remarkable, off Hamid to Skardu flight departs at 9.30am and arrives
Ghar Rd and with uninterrupted views of at 10.30am. Head out to the airport at least
the Indus River, though it’s a long walk from two hours before departure.
the bazaar. There is an OK restaurant, a very
interesting mountaineering museum, and a BUS
tourist information desk. In good weather the 170km trip to/from Gilgit
Mashabrum Hotel (%50395; hotelmashabrum@yahoo takes six to seven hours. For the best views,
.com; College Rd; s/d Rs 1650/1850) The Mashabrum sit on the left-hand side heading for Gilgit. In
makes quite a statement in Skardu, especially rainy weather, multiple rockfalls may block
the impressive lobby with adjoining restau- the road for days. Rawalpindi-bound buses
rant and gift shop. The numerous rooms are will take at least 20 hours and probably stop in
functional and comfortable with TVs and a Islamabad, but you should confirm this.
balcony but already looking a little tired in K-2 Tours (%55582; Hussaini Chowk) has mini-
this relatively new hotel. buses for Gilgit (Rs 240) departing at 9am,
11am and 1pm. For Khaplu (Rs 100, three
Eating hours) a 16-seat Land Cruiser departs at
The hotels have the best restaurants in town 10am. For Rawalpindi (Rs 850), at least one
and most do an adequate job. bus departs daily at 11am.
oDewan-e-Khas (%55494; www.dewane Mashabrum Tours (%55195; Yadgar Chowk) has
khas.com.pk; Raja Rd; mains Rs 50-200; h8am-10pm) This minibuses to Gilgit (Rs 200) departing at 8am,
recommended hotel has a great restaurant 10am and noon. To Rawalpindi, a Coaster
 290 B A LT I S TA N • • A r o u n d S k a r d u Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

(Rs 850) departs at 11am and a bus (Rs 800) to the Buddha. There and back is a detour
departs at 4pm. For Khaplu (Rs 100) there’s of about an hour.
a 9am departure. A road, parts of it already paved, runs
Natco (%52188; College Rd) is the best choice past the lake and 6km to 8km on to Satpara
for the long-haul trip to Pindi because of the village. Roughly 25km beyond the village, the
better buses and because they take two drivers. track crosses the Ali Malik Mar pass onto
For Pindi, the VIP Coaster (Rs 1100) departs the Deosai Plains. The most popular trek-
at noon and the VIP deluxe (Rs 850) departs at king route goes from Skardu up Burji Nala,
3pm. To Gilgit (Rs 125 to Rs 190) departures to the west of Hargisar; see Lonely Planet’s
start at 9am. For Khaplu (Rs 100) there is at Trekking in the Karakoram & Hindukush for
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

least one departure at 8am. further details on these and other treks.

FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE ACTIVITIES

Four-wheel drives hang out at Yadgar Chowk, Apart from just sitting back and enjoying
available for anything from local trips to the lake with a meal, you could go boating,
multiday safaris across the Deosai Plains. fishing or walking. At Sadpara Lake Inn you
Private ‘special’ jeep hire is also available from can hire a rowboat (per hr Rs 250). The hotel also
many hotels and adventure travel companies, runs motorboat trips (half/full boatload Rs 400/800).
and the following is an example of costs at Fishing gear (rental per hr Rs 30) is cheap to hire,
the time of research: Askole Rs 4500; Astor but the cost of a fishing licence (which can
Rs 8000; Gilgit via Deosai Plains Rs 10,000; be arranged by hotel management) is US$10
Hushe Rs 4000; Khaplu Rs 3000; Satpara Lake for foreigners. Trekking equipment hire
Rs 600 (Rs 1000 for all-day fishing trip); and and guides can also be arranged at Sadpara
Shigar Rs 1000. Lake Inn.

Getting Around SLEEPING & EATING

Decrepit passenger taxis ply the bazaars, and Hotels are open from May to October.
a taxi to the airport is about Rs 200. Lakeview Motel Sadpara (%03465204434; Deosai
Rd; camp sites Rs 60, s/d Rs 300/600) The new build-
AROUND SKARDU ing with four double rooms and a soon-to-
Satpara Lake & Buddha be-completed restaurant is above the lake
Nine kilometres south of Skardu is beautiful on Deosai Rd, but at the time of research
Satpara Lake, brilliant blue and stocked with it was still operating out of the modest old
rainbow trout, but no longer pristine. The hotel closer to the lake. The friendly man-
construction of two power stations as well ager keeps the place spotless and is able to
as a dam that will raise the level of the lake organise treks, porters, guides and jeeps to
was still very much under way at the time of the Deosai Plains.
research. It is expected that most of the vege- Lakeside Inn (%05831-58220; camp sites Rs 200,
tated foreshore and the picturesque island 2-person tents Rs 500, s/d Rs 600/1200) The Lakeside
will be submerged. The hotels have already also has a new hotel under construction,
moved up the hill. The walk to the lake is and it’s next door to the Lakeview Motel on
a dry, moderately steep three-hour (8km to Deosai Rd. In the meantime it is using a few
9km) climb up Hargisar Nala from the bazaar. shabby former PTDC ‘huts’. While it is still
Or you can take the road which is currently above water, there’s pretty good Pakistani and
choked with trucks and construction vehicles. Chinese food available with excellent views
Ultimately, there will be a paved road to the in the lakeside restaurant (mains Rs 60 to Rs
lake and continuing to the Deosai Plains. 350), where trout from the lake is sometimes
Across Hargisar Nala from the track is a on the menu.
Buddha relief carved on a rock in about the PTDC Motel Satpara (%05831-50291; c/o PTDC K2
7th century. About 200m beyond the Baltoro Motel, Skardu; s/d Rs 1200/1500) Dominating the
resthouse turning and a cluster of govern- north end of the lake, the large motel looks
ment offices, and just past an Aga Khan finished but was not open for business at the
Rural Support Program (AKRSP) office, turn time of writing. The word is it will open soon,
right on a small path. Near the end of this is though it appears to be waiting for the lake to
a footbridge across the nala, and a track up rise or at least the dam wall to be finished.
lonelyplanet.com B A LT I S TA N • • D e o s a i P l a i n s 291

GETTING THERE & AWAY ited grassy plateau, which borders Indian-
Other than the walk described previously administered Kashmir. Nowhere are the
(p290), you can hire a taxi from Skardu for plains lower than about 4000m; they’re only
about Rs 400 for the round trip. Be sure to accessible for about four months each year,
ask for a look at the Buddha on the way and and are snowbound for the rest.
negotiate a small fee for waiting around at the A track across the plains has become a
lake. A jeep will cost about Rs 600. popular jeep trek route between Skardu
and the Astor Valley (see p268), and in
Kachura Lake 1993 some 3630 sq km were declared the
Thirty kilometres west of Skardu, off the road Deosai Plains National Park (see p69) out of
concern for its subalpine vegetation, alpine

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
to Gilgit, this small lake is known mostly for the
expensive Shangri-La Tourist Resort (%05831-58501; meadows and Himalayan brown bears. The
s/d from Rs 5000/7500) with its ersatz Chinese archi- region also supports the endangered snow
tecture and a DC-3 fuselage converted into a leopard and Indian wolf, plus Himalayan
café (not operating at the time of research). This ibex and golden marmots.
resort purports to be luxury, and though it has From July to September, you can trek
a wonderful setting and the cabins are comfort- from the Astor Valley to Skardu in as little as
able, overall it falls short of expectations. The a week. Intrepid mountain bikers have done
Rs 200 entry pass deters day visitors and those Astor to Skardu in five days. Go prepared
who haven’t made a prior booking. for mosquitoes, cold weather and sudden
A smaller and more intimate resort over- storms. A jeep can make the journey from
looking the picturesque lake is Tourist Camping Gilgit to Skardu via Astor, Chilim Gah and
Resort (% 03469558819; [email protected] Deosai in 16 to 18 hours, with an overnight
.pk), with a dorm, tents and funky outdoor stop in Astor village.
bathroom. This is the base for Adventure Routes across Deosai are detailed in
Travel’s (www.adventure-touroperator.com) trekking Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Karakoram
in the region. & Hindukush.
There are petroglyphs along the streamside
trail up Shigarthang Lungma (lungma is Balti SHIGAR
for a tributary valley), above the lake. This is One of two routes from Skardu into the
an alternative to Satpara Lake for trekking High Karakoram (the other is the Shyok
the Deosai Plains (Kachura to Astor in four Valley), the lush and yawning Shigar Valley
to six days). was once a separate kingdom. Shigar’s
original settlers may have come over the
Basho Valley Karakoram from Yarkand, in Xinjiang.
About 45km kilometres west of Skardu, off the Shady Shigar village, where the Bauma
road to Gilgit, is a small mountain commu- Lungma empties into the Shigar River, is as
nity of several villages strung along a secluded far as most nontrekkers go. The main land-
valley that rises to the Deosai Plains. ‘Basho’ is mark here is Fong Khar, the former Raja of
said to mean ‘grape’ and refers to the valley’s Shigar’s fort-palace, now a luxury hotel (see
productive fruit growing. This area is quite p292) and museum (admission Rs 300, free for hotel
remote and it is recommended you contact guests) showcasing the impressive rustic ar-
Mr Younus Shehzad (shehzad_basho@hotmail chitecture and fascinating lifestyle of Shigar’s
.com) of the Basho Development Organisation rich and famous. The timber-and-stone pal-
for information on the several treks available ace has natural rock foundations and merges
and village visits. Treks, such as the Naqpo almost seamlessly into the mountainside, on
Namsul La, go at least as high as the Deosai top of which are the ruins of an earlier fort,
plateau and should only be attempted with Sinigma Khar. It’s a five-minute walk from the
adequate planning and equipment and, most road, up the left side of the stream, and has
importantly, local advice and assistance. The a lovely restaurant worth investigating even
season is July to September. if you’re not staying the night.
Visitors should find the time to stroll
DEOSAI PLAINS around the peaceful and attractive village
The Deosai Plains, about 50km southwest to meet the locals and view the beautiful
of Skardu, comprise an immense, uninhab- wooden mosques: Khilingrong beside Fong
 292 B A LT I S TA N • • K h a p l u Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Khar, the larger Khanqa-e-Moallah and (pronounced as one syllable, roughly ‘shok’).
14th-century Amburiq. Along the Shigar The Shyok is the axis of Khaplu, the biggest
Valley wall, downriver of Bauma Lungma, are and richest of Baltistan’s ancient kingdoms,
recently excavated Buddhist ruins, including and the scenery is superb.
monastery foundations and rock inscriptions The Shyok and Indus basins above their
from as early as the 5th century. junction (embracing ancient Khaplu, some-
For views of the Shigar Valley, walk up times spelled Khapalu, and the four smaller
Bauma Lungma for 20 minutes and dou- principalities of Keris, Parkutta, Tolti and
ble back up to the thumb of rock above Kharmang) comprise Ghanche district, with
the village. Khaplu village as headquarters.
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Khaplu’s Nurbakhshi Muslims are open-

Sleeping & Eating hearted but they’re shy of foreigners and
NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300) Shigar village has a can be touchy about being photographed.
very pleasant NAPWD resthouse, which Little English is spoken and even Urdu is a
has good walk-in odds in May/June and foreign language.
September/October. Allow at least a full day around Khaplu
Space (%05831-58710; camping Rs 250, d Rs 700-1000) village, even if you’re not a walker, and be
Follow the signs towards the Indus River from prepared for cooler weather than Skardu’s.
Shigar village for 2km to this hotel and camp-
ing ground. It’s rather remote and, with just Skardu to Khaplu
three basic rooms, overpriced for what it On the roadside west of Gol, an attractive
offers. There is a restaurant (lunch/dinner oasis of wheat terraces and fruit trees about
Rs 300/325) with a set Pakistani menu. 35km from Skardu, are boulders carved with
oShigar Fort Residence (%05831-66107; Buddhist motifs, old script and modern graffiti.
www.shigarfort.com; d from Rs 3850; i) The Aga Half an hour on, the road crosses the Indus and
Khan Trust for Culture has overseen the re- joins the Shyok. Opposite is Keris, at the mouth
markable restoration of this stunning fort- of a valley that was once a separate kingdom
palace into a singular historic getaway and under a branch of Khaplu’s royal line.
informative museum. As you might expect, Ancient Khaplu starts past the bridge at
the rooms in the rambling palace are all very Ghowari, first of a series of prosperous-looking
different, with enough authenticity to make villages strung like pennants along a harsh
you feel privileged, if not regal, and enough and rather overpowering setting. Near Karphok
21st-century comforts to make you, well, the road is carved into perpendicular walls.
comfortable. For those who prefer a little Twenty minutes on, huge Thalle Lungma gives
more modernity, the rooms in the garden a glimpse of the Masherbrum Range; up
house have satellite TVs. There’s a roman- this valley is a three- or four-day trek from
tic garden, a burbling mountain stream, a Khasumik over the 4572m Thalle La to Shigar.
superb restaurant and attentive professional See Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Karakoram
staff. Oh, and room to park your helicopter. & Hindukush for details.
Even if you can’t stay the night, a visit to the From Khaplu village, it’s still 70km to
restaurant (mains Rs 200 to Rs 350) is recom- 80km up the Shyok to the Line of Control,
mended. Sit under the vine trellis and try the but the road is closed to foreigners and you
palapo (described as local pasta with apricot, are unlikely to get past the police checkpoint
almond and walnut sauce) or the walnutty at Khaplu even if you are just headed to the
and equally tasty chicken fasanjoon. village of Surmo for a view of Masherbrum.

Getting There & Away Khaplu Village

The village is 32km from Skardu. From 11am %05832
to about 2pm, cargo jeeps go from Hussaini This handsome, 2600m-high village of
Chowk and surrounding alleys for about Rs timber-and-stone houses and precision-
100. A special hire will cost around Rs 1000. made dry-stone walls climbs up a wide alluvial
fan beneath an arc of jagged granite walls.
KHAPLU Ingenious irrigation has made it a shady, fer-
About 35km above Skardu, the Indus – locally tile oasis. As you climb its twisting track, the
called the Sind – is joined by the Shyok River icy peaks of the Masherbrum Range rise on
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels B A LT I S TA N • • H u s h e & M a s h e r b r u m V i e w s 293

the other side of the valley. It’s hard to imag- Naya Bazaar, cargo jeeps depart from about
ine a more majestic setting. 11am (Rs 70 to Rs 100). The 103km trip takes
A stony track climbs to the lower bazaar about three hours by cargo jeep.
(with PCO, shops and a National Bank); a
five-minute walk. Half an hour beyond, at a HUSHE & MASHERBRUM VIEWS
fork in the road, is an elegant but run-down Those who would like to see the gorgeous
traditional-style house, where royal descend- 7821m massif of Masherbrum without trekking
ants live. Twenty minutes up the left fork is the to it could try and walk up the Shyok Valley
polo ground, and uphill from that is the Khaplu road past the police checkpoint and the turn-
Palace, currently under restoration by the Aga off to Hushe Valley towards Surmo. Although
Khan Trust for Culture. If you get lost, the local at the time of writing the police at Khaplu were

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
word for it is khar, or try ‘Raja palace’. The res- not allowing this little excursion, it is worth
toration plan includes the provision of quality attempting with a local guide. As the Hushe
accommodation and a museum, similar to Valley opens up, Masherbrum looms into view
Shigar’s former fort-palace (see opposite). at its head, an unforgettable sight. It’s a flat, hot
Twenty minutes further up is Chakhchun 6km walk past Brok Lungma and Yuchung vil-
village, with a carved wooden mosque whose lage to the best viewpoint, at a turn in the road.
foundations were supposedly laid in the 16th Surmo, 3km on, is usually as far as foreigners
century when the people embraced Islam. can go towards the Siachen Glacier.
Non-Muslims may not enter this or other See p362 for details, and Lonely Planet’s
mosques here. There are several more villages Trekking in the Karakoram & Hindukush
in Ganse Lungma above Chakhchun. for further options in and around the
Hushe Valley.
SLEEPING & EATING
Khapalu Inn (%50148; s/d Rs 200/400) In the lower Hushe Valley
bazaar, with basic rooms with squat toilets Hushe (hu-shay) is the trekkers’ route to
and bucket hot water. It has a basic curry and Masherbrum, and an alternative to Shigar
chapati restaurant. for mountaineers heading towards Concordia.
K-7 Hotel & Restaurant (s/d Rs 400/600) On the For a close look at Masherbrum you can take
track up to Chakhchun, an aching hour’s walk a four-day (three-night) walk on a moderate
from the road, this hotel is open from June to grade from Khaplu to Hushe and back, with
September with clean and comfortable rooms, stops at Kande, Hushe and Kande again.
basic food and good views.
Karakoram Lodge (%51132; www.baltistantours.com; HUMBROK
s/d Rs 800/1000) This large hotel boasts magnifi- These beautiful, spring-fed pastures west of,
cent views in addition to its spacious rooms and high above, Hushe are easy to reach on a
and better-than-average restaurant (mains day hike (about four hours up and two hours
Rs 80 to Rs 150). It’s a 10-minute walk uphill back). From Hushe, cross to the west side of the
from the bazaar. river on the lower of two bridges and walk for
PTDC Khapalu Motel (%50146; s/d Rs 1550/1850) half an hour up Humbrok Nala. Cross it on a
This comfortable motel overlooks the river wooden bridge and follow the north bank all the
just beyond the turn-off to the village. The way to the pastures. For details on an overnight
rooms are clean and spacious, and there’s a alternative, including a side trip, see p362.
reliable if boring restaurant (mains Rs 80 to
Rs 150). You may get permission to camp in SLEEPING
the grounds and use a hot shower. Camping sites abound. Machulu has an NAPWD
Just before you reach the PTDC Khapalu resthouse (d Rs 300). At Kande you can stay at the
Motel there is an NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300). ultra-basic K6 Hotel & Restaurant above the
jeep road to the west.
GETTING THERE & AWAY In Hushe there’s basic accommodation at
Natco buses depart Skardu at 8am and cost Rs the Mashabrum Inn, and several camp sites
100. Mashabrum Tours has one bus departing where you can purchase hot food, includ-
Skardu at 9am (also Rs 100). K-2 Tours leaves ing Lela Peak Camping, the small K6 & K7
Skardu at 10am (Rs 100). Buses depart Khaplu Camping Place, Ghandoghoro La Camping
bazaar between 8am and 9am. From Skardu’s Place and Ghandughoro Camping Place.
 294 H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • G i l g i t t o C h a l t lonelyplanet.com

GETTING THERE & AWAY stories of extraordinary health and longevity.

A suspension bridge crosses the Shyok just The KKH itself has put an end to Hunza’s iso-
upriver of Khaplu, and a wide jeep road goes lation, and while the Garden of Eden image
all the way up the Hushe Valley to Hushe ignores a rather bloody history, this hardly
village. Cargo jeeps make the 148km trip alters Hunza’s appeal.
to Hushe from Skardu, though they’ll have ‘Hunza’ is commonly (and inaccurately)
little room for someone getting on near used for the entire broad valley. In fact, two
Khaplu. A special hire from Skardu will cost former princely states, Hunza and Nagyr
about Rs 4000. From Khaplu a special hire (nah-gr), with shared language and ances-
to Kande costs Rs 2000, from where you try, face one another across the river. Hunza
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

may be able to find a jeep going to Hushe. refers to the villages on the north bank from
In midsummer you might get a lift with a Khizerabad to Ghareghat (or sometimes as far
climbing party. But always be prepared to as Nazimabad). Gojal is sometimes described
walk the gently climbing 40km from Khaplu as part of Hunza too.
to Hushe village – about four hours up the Smaller but more populous Nagyr occu-
west side of the valley via Saling to Machulu, pies the entire south side of the valley and
3½ hours more to Kande, then 3½ hours on the north side around Chalt, and includes
to Hushe village. Rakaposhi and the lower Hispar Glacier.
Although it enjoys less media fame, Nagyr
is home to some of the best treks in the
HUNZA & NAGYR Karakoram (many of them described in
Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Karakoram
The Hunza Valley is the centrepiece of & Hindukush).
the KKH. The continuous sweep from the Most people here still think of them-
Hunza River through mighty, grey-brown selves as subjects of their respective mirs,
scree slopes and up to snowy peaks, includ- rather than as Pakistanis. And though they
ing 7788m Rakaposhi, is a reminder of the are very hospitable to foreigners, even in re-
river’s deep slice across the Karakoram. In mote areas, they are not always so fond of the
spring the famous fruit trees erupt in white down-land Pakistanis.
blossom, and autumn is a riot of yellow pop- The two kingdoms also have a common
lars, reddening orchards and golden maize language, Burushaski, but nobody is sure
drying on rooftops. where it came from. Wakhi is spoken in upper
Snaking across the slopes is Hunza’s hall- Hunza (Gojal); in Lower Nagyr (in common
mark, the precision-made stone channels with Gilgit), Shina is also used. Many people
on which the valley’s life depends. Carrying speak Urdu and English.
glacier meltwater to tiny stone-walled fields Hunza and Nagyr also once shared the
8km away, they have transformed a ‘moun- Shiite faith, but Hunza is now almost entirely
tain desert’ with few horizontal surfaces into Ismaili (except for Murtazaabad, Ganish and
a breadbasket. Their paths on the high rock a few other pockets).
faces are revealed by thin lines of vegetation,
and patches of green are visible on the most GILGIT TO CHALT
improbable walls and ledges. Irrigation sus- As you enter the Hunza Valley the view is
tains orchards of Hunza’s famous apricots, dominated by the 7168m Kampire Dior,
as well as peaches, plums, apples, grapes, located 70km north on the crest of the
cherries and walnuts (for more information Karakoram. About 35 minutes (on the bus)
on Hunza cuisine see the boxed text, p304). from Gilgit is a monument to KKH workers.
Irrigation also waters the fields of maize In Urdu on the base are the words of the
and wheat, and the ever-present poplars, philosopher-poet Allama Mohammed Iqbal:
a fast-growing source of fodder, firewood ‘God has given humans integrity, faith, and
and timber. a strong mind, and if they set themselves
Added to the beauty is a kind of mythology to it they can kick a mountain to powder
about Hunza’s isolation and purity, spawned or stop a river in its tracks.’ Unfortunately,
by James Hilton’s 1933 novel Lost Horizon, the immediate area surrounding the monu-
nourished in films about the lost kingdom of ment is an eyesore. Across the river is the
Shangri-la, and fostered in the 1970s by media Naltar Valley.
lonelyplanet.com H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • C h a l t 295

HUNZA & NAGYR 0

0
10 km
6 miles

Hunza Peak To Gojal (140km);

(6270m) Khunjerab Pass
(140km)
See Chalt & Around Map (p297) Bubulimating Ultar II
(6000m) (7388m) Gulmit
Muchutshil Shishpar or Ultar
Bar Glacier Hassanabad Glacier HUNZA
Glacier Altit Peak
HUNZA (5075m) Atabad
(5180m)
Baltit Nazimabad
See Ghulmet & Karimabad Duikar Sarat
Minapin Map (p298) Altit Kosh
Hyderabad Ghareghat
da nza

NAGYR Ganish Ahmedabad

un u

Hachindar Ayeenabad
ry
Bo yr-H

Aliabad KKH
(4270m) Sumayar
g

Hassanabad Askur Das Kitchener

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Na

Nagyr Monument
Hussainabad Shayar Ri
Murtazaabad Nagyr ve
Chaprot z a Khizerabad Nasirabad r
un

Chalt Maiyun Khanabad Tashot

H

River Miachar
Pisan Minapin His
Ghulmet par
Nilt Thol
Ri
Na Sikanderabad ver
g Jaffarabad Pisan Silkiang Hoper
Bo yr-Gi Glacier
und lgi Glacier
ary t Jaglot
Gah Haraj Minapin Rush
(4730m) Ghulmet Glacier Phari
Gwach Glacier Bualtar
Jaglot Glacier Barpu Rush Peak
NAGYR Glacier (5098m)
GILGIT Jaglot
Glacier Miar
Hunza

Na Rakaposhi
l (7788m) Glacier
Lower Rahimabad
tar

Diran
(7270m)
Rive

Upper Rahimabad
r

KKH Monument
Miar
Nomal (6824m)
Malubiting
KKH

(7458m)
Riv
er

To Gilgit
(15km)

Ten minutes on are a clutch of cafés and Activities

a road maintenance base called Jaglot Gah, SHORT TREKS AROUND CHALT
about 42km from Gilgit. Serais here have Ghashumaling
charpoys and meat and rice meals. Across the This is a lovely area in a lower Chaprot tribu-
river is Gwach Nala and the KKH’s precarious tary, with easy trails and mulberry, peach,
precursor, a now-abandoned jeep road that apple and walnut orchards. Walks can take
follows the oldest caravan trails. Ten minutes from two hours to all day. From Chalt bazaar
on is the Chalt turn-off. take the path past the high school and up the
south side of the valley. At the head of the
CHALT canyon, about 12km up, are pine forests and
Chalt sits in a bowl at the mouths of two the small Kacheli Glacier.
large valley systems, the only part of Nagyr
north of the river. Chaprot Valley is prob- Chaprot Valley
ably the most beautiful nala close to the From the bazaar, cross the Chaprot River and
KKH in the NA. Safdar Ali, mir of Hunza at turn left. About 150m up, take the left fork,
the time of the British invasion, said Chalt which climbs the north side of Chaprot Valley.
and Chaprot were ‘more precious to us than It’s an hour’s walk to Chaprot village, and
the strings of our wives’ pyjamas’. Excellent three to four hours from there along a mule
treks start here and in the Bar Valley; see track through summer villages to pastures at
Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Karakoram the head of the valley. In summer, horses can
& Hindukush for further details on these be hired at Chaprot.
and other treks.
From the KKH, a well-maintained road Bar Valley
crosses the river and runs 3km to Chalt, a From the bazaar, cross the river, turn left
small bazaar with shops, a post office and a and at the next fork keep right into Bar
telephone exchange. Valley (also called Garamasai or Budalas
 296 H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • C h a l t t o G h u l m e t Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

A TALE OF SIBLINGS & RIVALRIES

The origins of the separate Hunza and Nagyr kingdoms are obscured by legend. However, they
probably arose from a marriage of royal cousins in the 15th century that produced twin sons,
Maglot and Girkis, later to become the rulers, respectively, of Nagyr and Hunza. From infancy,
so the story goes, the little princes had a mutual hatred, and as kings they led their people
into frequent bloody battles with one another. Over the centuries their royal descendants have
continued the feud, even as their families intermarried.
The valley’s modest agricultural output had for years been supplemented by raids on caravans
between Kashgar and Kashmir, and by slave trading. Yaqub Beg, who proclaimed an independent
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Turkestan republic in Xinjiang in the 1860s, put a temporary end to the raids. This economic blow
led Hunza and Nagyr to declare allegiance to the British-aligned Maharaja of Kashmir.
In 1886 Safdar Ali became mir of Hunza in accordance with the valley’s age-old custom – by
murdering his father and three brothers. Within two years he resumed the caravan raids and
played host at Baltit Fort (see p300) to a party of Russian ‘explorers’. British India, spreading
north from Kashmir, had grown aware of Russia expanding into Central Asia, and Hunza now
began to look like a loose cannon on deck.
Britain decided to improve supply lines from Kashmir and reopen its Agency at Gilgit, and
inevitably became entangled in Hunza and Nagyr’s bloody politics. Within five years a British-
Kashmiri force had occupied the valley and installed its own mir, Nazim Khan, in Hunza. A British
garrison remained at Aliabad until 1897. Nazim Khan ruled until his death in 1938, and his son
Ghazan Khan until 1945.
Within weeks of the formal partition of India and Pakistan in August 1947, an uprising in
Gilgit against the Maharaja of Kashmir, who had opted to join India, brought Hunza and Nagyr
into Pakistan. They remained semiautonomous until 1974 when they were merged with Pakistan,
reducing their rulers to district officials.
Many older Hunzakuts still fondly recall their last mir, Muhammad Jamal Khan, who died two
years after the formal dissolution of the old princely states. His son Ghazanfar Ali still occupies
the royal house in Karimabad.

Valley). After 3km a path continues up information about walks in the area. Across
the west side of the valley while the jeep the bridge is the very basic Kepal Inn (r Rs 100)
road crosses a bridge to Budalas. On the with one room and the mere possibility of a
east side, 3km upstream from the bridge, cold shower. In a walled apricot orchard, an
the road crosses Shutinbar Nala. It’s a steep NAPWD resthouse (camp sites Rs 50, d standard/VIP Rs
8km to 10km up Shutinbar to a glacier at 300/500) has a couple of rooms.
its head. There are abandoned ruby mines
in the canyon. Getting There & Away
Further up Bar Valley is Torbuto Das, Chalt-bound minibuses depart in the early
about 13km from Chalt at the confluence morning from lower Khazana (Bank) Rd in
of the Daintar and Garamasai (or Tutu Uns) Gilgit for about Rs 50, returning the next
Nalas. West past Daintar village and about morning between 6am and 9am.
9km from Torbuto Das, in a meadow called
Taloybari, local herders have set up a simple CHALT TO GHULMET
camping area, with food available. This is a Near Chalt, the KKH runs along the edge
long day’s walk from Chalt; jeeps to Daintar of the ‘Asian Plate’, into which the Indian
can also be hired in Chalt. subcontinent ploughed 50 million years ago,
creating the Himalayan chain. There’s no sim-
Sleeping & Eating ple line, but roughly speaking Asia is to the
Chalt Tourist Inn (%05821-59192; Chowk Bazaar; d Rs north and the remnants of a chain of volcanic
400) is located in Chalt Chowk Bazaar and islands trapped between Asia and India are to
is easily the best option in Chalt, with clean the south (see the boxed text, p64).
rooms, a reliable restaurant (mains Rs 60 to Rs Eastwards the KKH arches around fertile
100) and a friendly manager who can provide Sikanderabad. Scratched into the walls hun-
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • C h a l t t o G h u l m e t 297

dreds of metres high on the north side of the from Peshawar. Up the nala is a base camp for
valley is the ‘road’ that was once Hunza’s link a 1979 Japanese assault on Rakaposhi. The
to the outside. views are outstanding, but it’s a long slog with
At Nilt are the ravine and the site of the no water and poor camping. The trail begins
fort where the 1891 British invasion nearly behind the hamlet of Yal, east of the nala.
stalled. East of Nilt in Thol (pronounced tole)
is a green-roofed shrine to Shah Wali, a Shiite Sleeping & Eating
preacher from Afghanistan who settled here In Ghulmet there are several bright and tacky
in the late 18th century. places crowded around the KKH bridge
At several points on the road there are over Ghulmet Nala offering refreshments

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
splendid views of Rakaposhi, culminating and accommodation.
in Ghulmet (not to be confused with Gulmit Rakaposhi View Point (%05821-59163; camping Rs
village in Gojal). At the east end of Ghulmet 50-100) Offers a few camp sites next to the busy
is touristy Ghulmet Nala, above which restaurant (mains Rs 100 to Rs 200) with col-
Rakaposhi rises in an unobscured sweep. Take ourful umbrellas, picnic tables and gift shop.
tea, take in the view and peruse the shops sell- Rakaposhi View Café & Camping Side (%05821-
ing crystals and 9/11 commemorative carpets 59122; camping Rs 50-100) Choose from dusty camp

CHALT & AROUND 0

0
5 km
3 miles

To Chaprot; Bar Valleys

High Kepal Telephone
School Inn Exchange
Chalt
Restaurant Tourist
Inn

Chapro
Bazaar

Sh
op
s
Hamman

t
Bar

River
Garamasai Nal

NAPWD
Resthouse
0 100 m
0 0.1 miles
a

Daintar
Taloybari
Dain
tar
Nala
Torbuto Das
Ba
r
Va
lle
y

Snow Dome
(5029m)
Na
la
r
ba

n
uti
Chaprot Sh
Chaprot Glacier
Pass

Ch Bola
apr Das Budalas
ot Old
Hot
Spring Trac
Val k to
ley
Merhbani
Hu

(5639m) Chaprot
nz

Rahbat
a

Kacheli
Glacier
Chalt
See Enlargement

KKH
Ghashumaling
er
Hun za Riv

To Ganish
(50km)

Chari Khand To Gilgit

(5886m) (55km)
 298 H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • M i n a p i n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

porters and jeep safaris can all be organised at

GHULMET & 0 2 km
the hotel, where you can also find information
MINAPIN 0 1 mile
on short walks.
A B West of the hotel is an NAPWD resthouse
SLEEPING
(d Rs 300). Keep an eye out for a new camp-
1 Diran Hotel.........................................1 B2 ing ground in Minapin village, which was
NAPWD Resthouse.............................2 B2
Rakaposhi Paradise Hotel...................3 A2
planned by Israr, the very popular former
Rakaposhi View Café & Camping Side..4 A2 manager of the Diran Hotel (erstwhile Diran
Rakaposhi View Point.........................5 A2
Guesthouse).

Getting There & Away

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Nasirabad
To Karimabad
Minibuses depart Minapin (behind the
KK
H (25km) NAPWD resthouse) for Gilgit after about 6am,
River and come to Minapin from lower Khazana
2 1 (Bank) Rd in Gilgit around 1pm to 2pm (Rs 70,
To Gilgit Pisan 2 Minapin
Rs 10 for baggage). Minibuses depart Aliabad
Miniver

4 3 Hunza
H
R

KK around 11am from near the Swat Hotel and

apin

5 Yal
Ghulmet return to Aliabad (Rs 30) from in front of
Nala

the Diran Hotel (listen for the tooting horn).

Alternatively, you can flag down a minibus on
W
et

alk
Ghulm

Minapin the KKH at Pisan.

i
ng

Hapakun Glacier
Trac
Track

k
ALIABAD
ing

3 %05821
lk

Pisan
Wa

Glacier Aliabad’s characterless bazaar, strung out for

1.5km along the KKH, is a transport hub and
Ghulmet
administrative centre. It’s an awkward base
Tagaphari
Glacier unless you’re trekking in Hassanabad Nala.

sites up top or better secluded sites under the Orientation & Information
trees below. Provides a night security guard A small telephone exchange is in the centre.
for campers. The post office is at the east end, 200m past
Rakaposhi Paradise Hotel (%05821-58146; d Rs the petrol station. A link road to Karimabad
400-700) Has two good doubles, plus a couple joins the KKH 2km west of the bazaar.
of dark and dingy cheaper rooms.
Sleeping & Eating
MINAPIN There are three foreigner-friendly hotels
From Pisan, just 2km east of Ghulmet, there’s bunched together near the ‘Gilgit 100km’ road
a turn-off to Minapin, 5km further east. marker. The best is the Hunza Continental Hotel
Sleepy Minapin is a popular place for travel- (%0355401086; s/d Rs 400/500) with rooms equipped
lers to ditch their packs and contemplate the with TVs and clean bathrooms. Hunza Gateway
mountains. It is also the base for numerous Hotel (%55202; s/d Rs 200/300) is a more basic op-
day walks and the start of an excellent trek tion and, up the nearby laneway, the Dumani
to another Rakaposhi base camp and longer Hotel (%55202; d Rs 250) is barely adequate.
treks towards Diran Peak (see p351).
The best accommodation is provided by Getting There & Away
Diran Hotel (%05821-58149; [email protected]; Get here from Gilgit on any Karimabad-
camp sites/dm Rs 100, s/d Rs 300-1200; s), in a walled bound transport. Minibuses leave Aliabad
orchard east of a large mosque. Rooms vary for Gilgit (Rs 90) and Sost (Rs 90) all day,
in comfort and size, and prices vary with the starting as early as 5am and leaving when
seasons, but you are sure to find something full. Suzukis go all day to/from Ganish (Rs 5)
that suits. The excellent restaurant (mains and Karimabad (Rs 10). To catch northbound
Rs 50 to Rs 350) has several tasty local spe- transport, Aliabad is a better choice than
cialities, such as chicken gorkon, cooked in Ganish as minibuses tend to leave Aliabad
a traditional stone pot. Trekking guides and when full.
lonelyplanet.com H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • K a r i m a b a d ( B a l t i t ) 299

Natco (%50111), with an office and depot at in what came to be called Karimabad. The
the north end of the bazaar, has minibuses to name is now also used for Baltit and the com-
Gilgit (Rs 100) departing at 8am, 1pm and plex of ancient tribal hamlets around it.
6pm; the service to Sost (Rs 100) via Gulmit Since the arrival of KKH tourism and
(Rs 30) and Passu (Rs 35) leaves at 11am. If overseas aid, Karimabad has prospered and
there are seats available, you could hop on the the bazaar has filled with hotels, restaurants,
bus to Kashgar (Rs 2700) at about 8am, which travel agencies and handicraft shops. The su-
originated in Gilgit. perb setting, grand fort, good food, friendly
locals and opportunity to swap tales with
KARIMABAD (BALTIT) other highway travellers make Karimabad
an ideal stopover.

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
%05821 / elevation 2438m
Baltit is Hunza’s ancient capital. Its magnifi-
cent fort, on a throne-like ridge with Ultar Orientation
Nala yawning behind it, has always been the Karimabad is perched high above the KKH.
kingdom’s focal point. The fort served as the Vehicle access from the KKH includes New
royal palace for over 750 years until last cen- Ganish Rd to the lower end of the bazaar
tury, when sounder quarters were built below from just west of Ganish, and a road to the

KARIMABAD (BALTIT) 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
To Queen To Ultar
A Victoria B Nala C D
Monument
To Post Office (200m); 9
Aliabad (9km) Jamaat Khana
Bazaa

Boys’ High School 34

1
Channel

Polo To Duikar
(7km)
r

Ground
Rd
Hunarmand 21
Market 25
39
INFORMATION 37 13 Barber's shop
Adventure Hunza................(see 39) 29
Alam Money Changer..............1 B2 35 28
Ali Book Stall.......................(see 30) 23
27
Baltit Book Centre....................2 C2 Dala To Altit Fort
Ch 38 (1.5km)
Concordia Expeditions.............3 C2 ann
Ul

el 2
ta

Hospital....................................4 B3 SLEEPING
r
Ri

Hunza Guides Pakistan........(see 31) 33 16

ve

36 Darbar Hunza Hotel...............11 B3

r

Kado Internet Services..............5 B3 Eagle's Nest Hotel Booking

2 Mohummond Book Store....(see 35) 32 Office................................12 C2
National Bank...........................6 B3 Karimabad 12 Altit
Garden Lodge......................... 13 B1
Police Post................................7 B3 Haider Inn..............................14 B3
Telephone Exchange................8 B4 Hill Top Hotel.........................15 B2
Travel Walji's.......................(see 31) 15 30 Hotel Blue Moon...................16 C2
Travel Walji’s.......................(see 26) 26 3 Hotel Hunza Embassy.............17 B3
24 1 Hunza Baltit Inn.....................18 B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hunza Inn..............................19 B3
Baltit Fort.................................9 C1 Hunza View Hotel..................20 B4
Rd
Mir’s House...........................10 C3 aar Karim Hotel............................21 B1
Baz
Cemetery Karimabad Hotel....................22 B3
18
Lucky Star Hotel....................23 C2
Mulberry Inn..........................24 B2
22 11 Rainbow Hotel........................25 B1
3 7 Zero Point Tourist Cottage....................(see 14)
10 Tourist Park Hotel..................26 B2
14 19 31
5 6 17 New World Roof Hotel...................27 B2
Old
Ga
nis EATING
Ga

hR
ni

d Baltit Bakery...........................28 B1
sh

4 Rd
Baltit Café & View Point.........29 B1
Café de Hunza I.................... 30 C2
Café de Hunza II....................31 B3
Hidden Paradise.....................32 C2
To KKH (2km); 8 Saghin Departmental MOMINABAD
Store....33 C2
Aliabad (7km);
Gilgit (85km) To Mominabad
SHOPPING
20 Hayat Silversmith....................34 B1
4 Hunza Art Museum................35 B1
Hunza Carpet........................36 C2
New Ganis Hunzo-e-Hayan......................37 B1
h Rd
Kado Gems Cutting & Polishing
Centre................................38 B2
KK

To Ganish (1km); Mountain Equipment..............39 B1

H

To Ganish (2km) KKH (1km)

 300 H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • K a r i m a b a d ( B a l t i t ) lonelyplanet.com

top of the bazaar from just west of Aliabad. Travel Walji’s (%57203; www.waljis.com; Zero Point)
Old Ganish Rd, the original access road from Tours and jeep hire with good drivers.
Ganish, is now a footpath.
Sights & Activities
Information BALTIT FORT
BOOKSHOPS The oldest parts of Baltit Fort (%57110; admission
Ali Book Stall (%57112; Café de Hunza, Hilltop Bazaar) Rs 300, plus camera Rs 150; h9am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Apr-Oct,
Stocks books and maps of the NA, plus carpets. 9.30am-4pm Nov-Mar) date from the 13th century.
Baltit Book Centre (Bazaar) A respectable collection of Over the years more houses and towers were
NA and Central Asia books in English. added, and it was fortified. To cement an al-
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Mohummond Book Store (%57040; Bazaar) Plenty liance with Baltistan’s Maqpon dynasty in the
of books on the local area plus a range of Lonely Planet 17th century, Mir Ayesho II (great-grandson
guides. of the legendary Girkis) married a daughter
of the Balti ruler, who sent artisans to build a
EMERGENCY fort at nearby Altit. The princess then came
If you need to make an emergency phone call to live in Hunza, bringing her own artisans
anywhere in the world, Café de Hunza has a to improve Baltit Fort. Balti-style renovation
satellite telephone available. continued under the reign of Ayesho II’s
Hospital (Old Ganish Rd) son. The name Baltit probably dates from
Police There is usually a police presence at Zero Point, this time.
below Darbar Hunza Hotel. The fort took on its present appear-
ance only in the last century or so. Mir
INTERNET ACCESS Nazim Khan added outer walls and fixed
Both branches of Café de Hunza (Zero Point up his own rooms with wallpaper, drapes,
and Hilltop Bazaar) should have connections fireplaces, balconies and tinted windows.
(per hour Rs 50) by the time you read this. He had the outer walls whitewashed, dra-
Kado Internet Services (Zero Point; per hr Rs 40; matically raising the fort’s visual impact
h10am-10pm) Plenty of monitors, CD burning (Rs 40) from all over the valley. Also added were
and scanning. a rooftop dais, where royal councils were
held in good weather, and the ‘lantern’
MONEY or skylight.
Alam Money Changer (Lower Bazaar; h8am-8pm) Nazim Khan’s grandson moved to mod-
Has better cash rates and accepts most currencies. ern quarters in Karimabad in 1945. By the
National Bank (New Ganish Rd; h9am-1pm Mon-Thu, time KKH travellers first saw the fort in the
9am-noon Fri & Sat) Accepts US dollars and UK pounds 1980s it was an abandoned shell, stripped of
cash or travellers cheques. anything of value and verging on collapse.
From 1990 to 1996 it was effectively taken
POST apart stone by stone and reassembled. This
Post office (h9am-4pm Mon-Thu, 9am-12.30pm Fri & was a painstaking effort using advanced
Sat) Located along the back road to Aliabad, about 700m preservation principles developed in Europe,
northwest of the bazaar’s centre. while retaining the unique construction and
earthquake-proofing techniques pioneered
TELEPHONE by the fort’s original builders.
Telephone Exchange (Old Ganish Rd; h24hr) The result is impressive and the renova-
tion work almost invisible. Several rooms
TRAVEL AGENCIES have exhibits of clothing and old photos,
Adventure Hunza (%57201; www.adventurehunza plus utensils and furnishings donated by
.com; Mountain Equipment, Baltit Fort Rd) The Karim local people. Visitors get a half-hour tour
brothers can help organise short and long treks and have with a knowledgeable local guide (you can-
equipment for sale and hire. not go in without one), and interested per-
Concordia Expeditions (%57182; www.concordia sons can use the library.
-expeditions.com) A well-known trekking and touring Tickets are sold at a small kiosk below
agency across the road from Hill Top Hotel. the fort and it is worth noting that the fort’s
Hunza Guides Pakistan (%57076; www.hgp.com.pk; administration is funded solely by these
Zero Point) Trekking and cultural tours. ticket sales.
lonelyplanet.com H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • B a l t i t F o r t 301

BALTIT FORT

9
First Floor
FIRST FLOOR
Storage (& Emergency
Stairs).............................1
Storage............................. 2
10 Rani's Bedroom.................3
Kitchen..............................4

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
1 4
Living Room (& Audio-
Visual Room).................5
3 6
Prison................................6
2 Lobby/Grain Storage.........7
Guards Gallery.................. 8
11 Toilet................................ 9
5 Library.............................10
Court Room (& Office).....11
7
Prison...............................12
Prison..............................13
12 13
8

SECOND FLOOR
Dressing Room.................14
35
27 Rani's Summer
Second Floor Courtyard.....................15
29 Toilet................................16
28
Bathroom.........................17
22
21 Rani's Room.....................18
16 17 30 Mir's Bedroom..................19
18 Living/Sun Room.............20
36
Male Guest Room............21
23 Male Guest Room............22
Open Courtyard.............. 23
31
Waiting Room................. 24
14 Drawing Room................ 25
15 19 Balcony............................26
24 32 Toilet...............................27
33 Dressing Room................ 28
Bathroom........................ 29
37 Bedroom for Newly
25
Married Couples..........30
20 38 Living Room.....................31
34
39 Musician's Place...............32
Armoury..........................33
26 Royal Dais........................34
Toilet...............................35
Terrace............................ 36
Courtiers' Terrace............ 37
Guard Room....................38
Roof Level Wazir's Dais.....................39

45
40
42

41
ROOF LEVEL
Fruit Storage....................40
Fruit Storage....................41
Terrace............................ 42
46 Mosque...........................43
Terrace............................ 44
44
Baltit-Style Terrace............................ 45
Skylight Terrace............................ 46
43

Reproduced with the Permission of the Aga Khan Trust for Culture
 302 H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • K a r i m a b a d ( B a l t i t ) Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

CHANNEL WALKS Karimabad Hotel (% 57108; Zero Point; dm/s/d

A three- or four-hour walk along the main Rs 50/150/200) The Karimabad’s new rooms
water channels from Ultar Nala is a good overlooking the NAPWD resthouse are good
way to see Hunza at its best. Try to avoid value with great views and working plumb-
the delicate side channels. ing. The owners are friendly and the restau-
Climb past the polo ground, bearing left rant is OK.
beside the channel there. The path goes Hunza Inn (%57186; Zero Point; dm/s/d Rs 70/200/250)
down the valley all the way to Hyderabad Word of mouth up and down the KKH keeps
Nala. There, scramble down to the link road this little place humming even in the lean
and turn back towards Karimabad. You can shoulder seasons. Rooms are simple but clean
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

soon drop to a lower channel that goes all and comfortable with bathrooms with hot
the way back. You can go right on around water. There’s a congenial host and the whole-
Karimabad, past Mominabad to the head- some and cheap communal dinners (see op-
works behind Baltit Fort, although the chan- posite) are open to nonguests and are a great
nel goes underground for part of the way. way to gather information.
Both these channels and the newer, higher Haider Inn (%57758; Zero Point; dm/s/d Rs 75/200/250)
channels distribute water from Ultar. There This is one of the original hotels in Hunza and
are seven channels running to the west and the friendly owner is happy to show you the
five to the east from Ultar Nala. The velvety one-room original Hunza Inn and the original
appearance of Ultar water is the result of travellers’ menu. There was plenty of renova-
minute flakes of mica. tion under way at the time of research to add
a restaurant. The rooms vary but overall are
QUEEN VICTORIA MONUMENT good value.
There is a ‘monument’ to Queen Victoria at Lucky Star Hotel (d Rs 300) Housed in the old
the top of the rock face behind Karimabad, post office, the spartan rooms have bathrooms
probably erected by Nazim Khan, and it can with hot water. It’s centrally located with a
be reached in an hour from Baltit. Take the restaurant upstairs and a good hot-snack
channel path above the polo ground. Five café downstairs.
minutes out, cross the channel and climb Rainbow Hotel (%57114; d Rs 300-400) The
stone steps beside an old watchtower. At the Rainbow is not welcoming, with glum rooms
top of the village, scramble over to a shal- with bathrooms upstairs and even gloomier
low cleft with some very large boulders. Go rooms downstairs that share a bathroom.
straight up to the base of the cliff before cross- Garden Lodge (%57168; dm/d Rs 100/400) The best
ing over to the monument; avoid a diagonal feature here is the quiet garden where you
crossing of the face because the top Ultar may be able to negotiate a camp site, as well
water channel spills down it. In Burushaski, as a few basic rooms that are adequately clean
the monument is called Malikamu Shikari and habitable.
(ma-li-ka-mu shi-ka-ri). Hotel Blue Moon (%57325; d without/with view
Rs 400/600) The small rooms have new bedding
MOMINABAD which makes them better than the average,
In the NA there are traces of an ancient caste but the precarious stairways don’t impress,
system, in which musicians and artisans and neither do the tiny bathrooms. There
ranked low. In the past they were often seg- are great views from the pleasant rear garden,
regated in their own separate villages. Though however, revealing the hotel’s, and for that
it’s quite ordinary looking, Mominabad (old matter Karimabad’s, precarious position.
name Berishal), near a turn on the Ganish– Karim Hotel (%57091; s/d Rs 250/450) Rooms are
Karimabad road, was such a village. Its people reasonable and the food OK. The best fea-
even speak their own dialect, Berishki. ture is the sunny patio with fine views of the
mountains above and the street life below.
Sleeping Mulberry Inn (%57178; camping Rs 80, dm/s/d
BUDGET Rs 100/400/600) The friendly staff at Mulberry
Tourist Cottage (Zero Point; d Rs 200) This basic op- Inn keep the basic, fan-cooled rooms very
tion is owned by the brother of the owner of clean and campers can enjoy a hot shower.
Haider Inn and you should inspect the room There’s an OK restaurant and a rooftop bar-
and the plumbing before settling in. becue in summer. If you are in luck the man-
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • K a r i m a b a d ( B a l t i t ) 303

ager’s mother will cook up some homemade TV, phone and bathrooms, but unfortunately
Hunza dishes. are not in brilliant condition. There’s a hugely
overpriced bar for foreigners (US$10 for a
MIDRANGE & TOP END Corona imported from Europe!), and when
Tourist Park Hotel (%57087; s/d Rs 300/600) Has a we were there, the restaurant and service com-
warren of rooms, some better than others, pared well only to Fawlty Towers.
around a quiet courtyard garden. It’s worth
inspecting a few and making an offer. The Eating
restaurant can be good, with Hunza speciali- RESTAURANTS
ties made by arrangement. Nearly all hotels have restaurants roughly in

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
World Roof Hotel (%57153; r Rs 300, s/d with balcony line with room quality; even the most basic of
Rs 600/800; i) The comfortable double rooms them can produce chicken curry, dhal, rice and
with balcony have great views and satellite TV; boiled potatoes. Relatively cheap Chinese beer
the budget rooms are not as appealing. There’s finds its way to a couple of general stores and
a decent multicuisine restaurant and a rooftop hotel restaurants and is worth asking for.
with views and occasional barbecues. Hunza Inn (%57186; 3-course veg/nonveg dinner
Hill Top Hotel (%57129; s/d Rs 800/1000) Hill Top, Rs 70/90) Simple and generous local and inter-
with its wide verandas and manicured gar- national-style dinners are held in a friendly
den, has a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. communal atmosphere. If you’re not staying
The rooms with views are good value and so here, book dinner in the morning.
is the restaurant. The early- and late-season Hidden Paradise (%57464; mains Rs 80-180; h9am-
discounts make this an even better choice. 9pm) This quaint restaurant has a big menu
Hunza View Hotel (%57141; [email protected] of inexpensive and delicious Hunza dishes;
.pk; s/d standard Rs 1000/1200, s/d deluxe Rs 1400/1600) eg haneetze doudo (apricot soup; Rs 60) and
Situated below the telephone exchange, Hunza chapshuro (Hunza pizza; Rs 150). The cuisine
View has rooms with satellite TV and valley is definitely not haute, but this is a great way
views and, with its souvenir shop, is geared for to sample local food with friends and enjoy
groups. It has a good restaurant, but presents views of Altit and Duikar.
a long uphill walk to the bazaar. Baltit Café & View Point (%03355401620; mains
Hotel Hunza Embassy (%57001; www.hunzaem Rs 80-220) The main selling point here is the
bassy.com; Zero Point; s/d standard Rs 1500/2000, s/d deluxe pleasant garden dining area with excellent
Rs 2000/3000) This hotel was recently refurbished views. Find a sunny or shady seat and sip a cold
and is looking splendid with lots of carved drink or tuck into the soups, burgers, snacks
wood softening the concrete construction. and several Pakistani and Chinese dishes.
Both standard and deluxe rooms are spacious, Hunza Baltit Inn (%57012; Zero Point; mains
clean and comfortable. The deluxe rooms have Rs 80-300) The premier hotel restaurant in
a bathtub and the excellent restaurant serves Karimabad has tasty renditions of Pakistani,
several delicious Hunza dishes in addition to Chinese and Continental cuisine, but in par-
the usual multicuisine. ticular we recommend the Pakistani dishes
Hunza Baltit Inn (%57012; Zero Point; s/d Rs 2500/3000) such as the delicious chicken and ginger handi
The attractive and low-key Hunza Baltit Inn (Rs 290).
is managed by the very professional Serena Hotel Hunza Embassy (%57001; www.hunzaem
Hotels group. The spotless rooms are surpris- bassy.com; Zero Point; mains Rs 90-200) This is a another
ingly tiny but do have TV and first-rate bath- good place to seek out Hunza cuisine: try hoilo
rooms and share a sunny balcony from which garma (spinach pasta) and burutz berikutz
to take in the view across to Baltit Fort. The (chapati stuffed with fresh cheese, carrot tops,
rooms have either double or twin beds. There’s spring onions, coriander and mint). There’s
a large and popular restaurant here, as well as a also an extensive multicuisine menu.
Hunza-decorated room for traditional dining.
Breakfast is included in the tariff. CAFÉS & QUICK EATS
Darbar Hunza Hotel (%57105; www.hunzadarbar Lucky Star Hotel (mains Rs 25-35) Most appealing for
.com.pk; Zero Point; s/d Rs 3000/4000) This conspicuous its Rs 10 snacks (Hunza doughnuts, pakoras
hotel has wonderful views from the lobby, and samosas) and tea, Lucky Star neverthe-
restaurant and roof down the valley. The 40 less serves inexpensive curries including dhal,
spacious rooms, some with double beds, have chapati and veg curry (Rs 35).
 304 H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • K a r i m a b a d ( B a l t i t ) lonelyplanet.com

HUNZA CUISINE
Meals in Hunza include the likes of potatoes, rice, wholemeal bread and noodle soup, with oil
and spices used sparingly. But there’s more to Hunza cooking than that, as you’ll see if you’re
lucky enough to be invited home for dinner.
Milk products include milk (mamu), yogurt and diltar, a cultured buttermilk. A soft cheese
called burus is soothing for upset stomachs. Yogurt and burus are available by request at some
hotels. Kurut is a sour, hard cheese; you’re most likely to get this from shepherds in exchange
for things like tea, salt or sugar.
Pitti is thick whole-wheat bread baked in coals. Chapshuro is ‘Hunza pizza’: meat, tomatoes
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

and onions traditionally cooked into a thick chapati but sometimes just sandwiched between two
chapatis and fried. Burushapik (‘cheese-chapati’) is burus cooked into a whole-wheat chapati, the
outside covered in apricot-kernel oil, and served cold – good and very filling. Burutze berikutz is
similar but with herbs (coriander and mint) added and served in small pieces.
Doudo is a noodle soup with vegetables, thickened with egg and whole-wheat flour. It comes
in many varieties, eg kurutze doudo, with kurut; and delicious haneetze doudo, with nuts or crushed
apricot kernels, garlic and onion. Apricot soup is made from dried apricots, flour and water.
Most of the Northern Areas’ dried fruit comes from Hunza, and dried Hunza apricots are
found in bazaars all over Asia. Apricots and mulberries usually ripen by June. Peaches, plums,
apples, grapes, cherries and walnuts appear in early autumn. Dried mulberries make a marvel-
lous travel snack.
Among drinks is a tea brewed from tumuro (or chumuru), a wild alpine herb similar to sage
that is said to cool and clear the head, especially at high elevation. Despite Islamic prohibition
and disapproval from the Aga Khan, some Hunzakuts carry on pre-Muslim traditions by brewing
a rough grape wine called mel, and a potent mulberry firewater called arak. Arak (‘Hunza water’)
may be offered to you by friends, though your stomach may not be up for the ride. Some shops
also sell nonalcoholic Pakistani beer.

Café de Hunza I (%57112; Hilltop Bazaar; breakfast Rs events – you will probably be more than
55-90, cakes Rs 25-50, coffee Rs 40-75; h7.30am-late; i) welcome to bolster the audience and you
The KKH has delivered espresso coffee (Rs might even get an offering of local wine.
75) to sip while munching on Hunza walnut Hunza’s drum and surnai (a kind of oboe)
cake (Rs 50) and reading the newspaper (albeit music is called hareep: there are different
two days old). Not surprisingly, this venture, versions for weddings, festivals, polo matches
which also does muesli and omelette break- and other events.
fasts and sells books and souvenirs, has hit the
spot with travellers and there’s now another Shopping
branch at Zero Point. The bazaar is lined with art and handicraft
shops, such as Hunza Carpet, many selling
SELF-CATERING the woollen wares made by local women
Self-caterers will find fresh fruit and vegeta- trained by the Threadnet Hunza programme.
bles less plentiful here than in Gilgit. Hunza-Nagyr wool is renowned for its dura-
Saghin Departmental Store has a reasonable bility, though it’s being displaced by factory
selection of canned and packaged food, batter- imitations. Hunza Art Museum is another
ies, film and toiletries. Baltit Bakery will often reliable store, and can provide guarantee cer-
have pitti (whole-wheat bread). General stores tificates for semiprecious stones and gems.
and bakeries are also good places to search for Kado Gems Cutting & Polishing Centre (www.rc
dried fruit, snacks and trekking supplies. hunza.org) The follow-up project to Threadnet
Hunza is designed to empower local women,
Entertainment in this case by training them in gem cutting,
Traditional dances are occasionally per- polishing and selling. At the time of research
formed for tour groups at the midrange the finishing touches were being put on the
hotels by local musicians and artists. It is shop which will eventually sparkle with rubies,
worthwhile seeking an invitation to these sapphire, topaz and quartz.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • A r o u n d K a r i m a b a d 305

Hayat Silversmith (Bazaar) This one-man opera- Duikar

tion can turn your stones into jewellery. At about 2800m, Duikar is said to be Hunza’s
Hunzo-e-Hayan (Hunarmand Market) The small highest village. It is about 11km and 25
shop front for Shafqet Karim, an artisan who minutes by jeep or a 2½-hour walk from
turns wooden bowls and carves soup spoons Karimabad, past gravity-defying terraced
and other traditional implements as well fields. The rewards include immense valley
as figurines. views and a great hotel. From the strangely
Mountain Equipment (%57201) Trekking and eroded hill behind Eagle’s Nest Hotel you
mountaineering equipment can be purchased can look down on the Hunza River, the twist-
here at the top end of the bazaar. The lads ing ribbon of the KKH and the Legoland of

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
from Adventure Hunza have also opened a Altit village; or look across to Rakaposhi and
CD shop here, Kiran Audio Video Centre. Golden Peak (Diran Peak is hidden from
view); and up to Bubulimating. Sunrise and
Getting There & Around sunset are magnificent. There are even better
Minibuses to Gilgit (Rs 100) scout Karimabad views from Khosht, a promontory leaning out
bazaar between 6.30am and 7am in search over Ultar Meadow and the glacier, and a five-
of passengers. After 7am, you may need to hour round trip from Duikar.
head down to Aliabad to easily catch one of
the many minibuses (Rs 90) heading south. Sleeping & Eating
The most convenient transport to Sost For many years Altit’s popular Kisar Inn pro-
(Rs 90) is also found at Aliabad. You could vided everything that KKH travellers needed,
also try Ganish, but buses tend to fill up at but with the recent decline in tourism this
Aliabad first. hotel has, at least temporarily, closed its doors.
Passenger Suzukis drive through the bazaar Inquiries about if/when it will reopen should
and then do an Aliabad–Karimabad–Ganish be directed to the Eagle’s Nest Hotel.
loop all day for Rs 10. Sky Camping Site & Restaurant (%05821-58420;
camping Rs 50, dm Rs 200) This option has beds in
AROUND KARIMABAD tents set up in a potato field. There are two
Ultar Meadow cold-water bathrooms and room to pitch
A climb to the beautiful Ultar icefall with its your own tent. The restaurant (mains Rs 100
amphitheatre of peaks including the 6000m to Rs 220) is a couple of tables under an
pinnacle, Bubulimating, or Lady Finger, will umbrella! The view, of course, is sublime.
give you an appreciation for the vertical lie of Eagle’s Nest Hotel (%05821-58274; www.eagles
the land. This can be a strenuous day trip or nesthotel.com; s/d from Rs 800/2000, ste Rs 2500-3500)
an easier overnight one; see p353 for details Nearby, Duikar’s Eagle Nest has stupen-
of the walk. dous views from all its comfortable rooms
Remember to carry water! Some people plus first-rate Hunza food. It’s open from
hire a local guide for around Rs 500 per day: March to the end of October and can organ-
useful but not essential. But going alone is not ise transfers from Karimabad. It’s popular,
recommended; several solo hikers have disap- so ring to see if there’s room. The restau-
peared and others have been injured. rant (mains Rs 100 to Rs 220) has Hunza,
Pakistani and Chinese dishes and generous
Altit Fort & Village buffets. Breakfast is included in the tariff.
This picturesque fort overlooking the vil-
lage of Altit (admission Rs 100) beside the Hunza Getting There & Away
River was undergoing extensive renovation Tracks run to Altit from Karimabad bazaar
at the time of research and was closed to the and from New Ganish Rd. The turn for
public. The 1000-year-old village has been Duikar is just before Altit, a 20-minute walk
renovated and rehabilitated and you can be from Karimabad bazaar. Eagle’s Nest Hotel
walked around the charming village with the has a booking office in Karimabad, opposite
aid of a local guide. The fort is about 1.5km Hidden Paradise restaurant, where accom-
from Karimabad. Turn right after the jamaat modation and transfers can be organised.
khana (Ismaili community hall) and pass the A hired jeep from Karimabad to Duikar is
old village pool to the fort gate. Fort is gela Rs 1000. Morning Suzukis run between Altit
(geh-lah) in Burushaski. and Ganish/Aliabad.
 306 H U N Z A & N A G Y R • • G a n i s h Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

GANISH Sleeping & Eating

The people of Ganish used to be famous Karakoram Highway Inn (%57200; KKH, Ganish; s/d
for their raids against Nagyr. In the 19th Rs 400/600) This hotel was being renovated at the
century this was Hunza’s main stronghold time of research. It will need to be a good job
against Ismailism, and today it’s an inte- to justify these prices in this location.
grated Shiite-Ismail community. It’s Hunza- PTDC Hunza Motel (%57069; KKH, Garelt; s/d
Nagyr’s oldest settlement with an ancient Rs 1350/1650, s/d deluxe Rs 1950/2250) This motel is not
village centre bursting with rejuvenated clas- very conveniently situated in Garelt, 1.5km
sic Hunza architecture. Travellers who show west of Ganish along the KKH. The spacious
respect for the villagers will be overwhelmed rooms with modern bathrooms enjoy won-
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

with hospitality and rewarded with a rich derful views. There’s a good restaurant, gar-
cultural experience. den and information service.

Ganish Village Getting There & Away

%05821 Aliabad-based minibuses scout for passengers
The restoration of Ganish village (admission Rs 150, to Gilgit around 5am to 6am. Northbound
plus camera Rs 50) is particularly good and won a minibuses may have filled up in Aliabad be-
Unesco Asia Pacific Heritage Award. While fore departing. Passenger Suzukis ply between
Baltit Fort shows how the cream of society here and Aliabad for Rs 10.
lived, Ganish shows another side of traditional
Hunza life. Behind a shaded, tranquil tank UPPER NAGYR
are several richly carved wooden mosques, That part of Nagyr visible from Karimabad is
100 to 200 years old, the restoration of which strung along a jeep road from the Hassanabad-
clinched the award. Legend has it that Ganish Shayar suspension bridge up to the glaciers at
warriors practised their river-crossing tech- Hoper. Much of it is in the shadow of its own
niques in the tank before crossing the Hunza peaks, giving it a slightly gloomy atmosphere.
River to attack Nagyr villages. The timber-and- The location also gives Nagyr heavier snow
stone watchtower from the days of war with and more water.
Nagyr is a tight squeeze but worth the climb.
Particularly interesting is the use of the cool Orientation & Information
glacier meltwater to store food – it’s still done Opposite Ganish, the Nagyr (also called Hispar)
today. Butter is wrapped in birch bark and can River joins the Hunza River. About 12km up-
be stored under water for years! You may even stream this valley divides, south to Hoper Nala
be offered a sweet made from the butter. For and southeast to remote Hispar Nala. There’s
all its quaintness and award-winning restora- a paved road from the KKH east of Ganish up
tion, Ganish is not a museum (there is a local the northeast side of the Nagyr River. Although
museum under construction) but a living vil- it is paved, this road is prone to landslide dam-
lage. This is exemplified perhaps by the huge age and blockage. The road crosses the river
concrete Imamia complex being constructed to enter the village of Nagyr and continues to
beside the walled village. The Imambara is Hoper, while a track continues on the northeast
expected to be clad in wooden carvings which bank to Hispar. There’s a secondary jeep road
may help it blend in. from Hassanabad to Hoper. A tenuous track
If no-one is staffing the admission booth, also runs along the south bank of the Hunza
walk towards the village and someone will River from Shayar to Minapin.
find you.
Shayar to Nagyr Village
The Sacred Rocks at Hunza There’s a precipitous down-and-up at the
About 1.5km east on the KKH at a place called Hassanabad-Shayar suspension bridge, fol-
Haldekush are several stony rises. The rocks, lowed by a fairly level two-hour walk on to
with pictures and inscriptions from as early as Sumayar, then a two-hour climb to Nagyr.
the 1st century, are a ‘guest book’ of the val- This area has few of the conveniences found
ley. In addition to local traditions, they tell of along the KKH. Askur Das has a teashop and
Buddhist pilgrims, kings of the Kushan empire, small restaurant.
a 6th-century Chinese ambassador, 8th-century Camping is not advisable near Sumayar,
Tibetan conquerors and even KKH workers. but it’s good in the meadows three hours up
lonelyplanet.com G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S 307

Sumayar Nala, with views of 7270m Diran and spine of the Karakoram. It does so in Gojal
the Silkiang Glacier. A footpath leaves the jeep (the still-used historical name for the region
track near a powerhouse, initially following commonly described as ‘upper Hunza’),
the channel. In the afternoon after freezing which extends from the pass to where the river
nights there is a rockfall hazard in the nala. turns west into ‘Hunza proper’. The High
Nagyr village was the capital of the old state Karakoram is consequently more accessible
of Nagyr, and descendants of the mir still here than anywhere else on the KKH. The
live here. It has a hospital, a friendly police Hunza River picks its way among great fans
post (where you will need to register) and a of alluvium carried down by smaller streams,
few basic shops and restaurants, as well as an and most villages are built on these fertile
NAPWD resthouse (d Rs 300). deposits. At Passu and Gulmit, several major

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
glaciers reach nearly to the Highway.
Hoper ‘The scenery is stern and impressive, but too
The area from Nagyr village to Hoper looks gloomy and harsh to be really sublime’, wrote
fertile and lovely in spring. Hoper (or Hopar) the British explorer Reginald Schomberg in
is a cluster of villages around a natural bowl 1935. Mountains with razor-edge summits
at a bend of the Bualtar Glacier, 19km from and bare walls drop sheer to the river, and
the KKH. Opposite Hoper, the Bualtar, also the wind drives up the valley even on bril-
known as Hoper Glacier, is joined by the white liant days. The clearest and most storm-free
Barpu Glacier. From here, you can hike beside weather is in early autumn, and if you’re fit,
the Bualtar or cross it and climb to summer this is the place to trek and get a feeling for
villages along both glaciers. This is also a base the mountains and its inhabitants.
for treks into the high, glacier-draped peaks Most Gojalis are Wakhi Tajik (one of seven
called the Hispar Muztagh (see p352). Tajik tribes in Central Asia), descendants of
At the end of the road are a couple of basic nomadic herders from Afghanistan, and
hotels. Hoper Hilton Inn (%05821-58083; camping Ismaili Muslims. Traditionally they have de-
Rs 60, s/d Rs 300/600) is probably the pick with six pended on the raising of sheep and yaks, and to
rooms with hot water and a restaurant (set a lesser extent on cropping. They’re certainly
dinner Rs 300) with a communal table and a the most warm-hearted people on the KKH,
TV. Hoper Hilton (camping Rs 30, r Rs 300) is even more with easy greetings and hospitality for both
basic. Either of these hotels can help find por- male and female visitors.
ters or guides for day walks and longer treks. Depending on whom you ask, khun jerab is
Wakhi for either Valley of Blood or Valley of
Getting There & Away the Khan. The broad Khunjerab Pass was for
A daily minibus runs between Hoper and centuries used by Kyrgyz and Tajik herders,
Gilgit (Rs 150) and Aliabad (Rs 50), departing until Hunza raiders hounded them out in the
at 7am. The return bus departs Gilgit at noon. late 18th century, after which Hunza’s rulers
A hired jeep is about Rs 1500 for the return declared the area to be ‘royal’ pasturelands –
trip from Karimabad, and Rs 4000 from Gilgit. so either version fits.
Cargo jeeps occasionally go in via Hassanabad A steady trickle of horseback commerce
to Sumayar and via Ganish to Nagyr village, crossed the Khunjerab (Chinese: Hongqilapu)
heading back early the next morning. until the 1950s, when China–Pakistan hostili-
On foot from Karimabad via Ganish, Nagyr ties closed the border. By the mid-1960s, the
village is about three hours and Hoper five two countries had made amends and set to
to six hours. From Hassanabad via Shayar, work on a road over the pass. ‘Khunjerab Top’
Hoper is a very long day’s walk. (4730m) was opened to official traffic and
trade in 1982, and to tourists in 1986, though
intrepid travellers had already discovered it.
GOJAL & THE The crossing is not only between countries
and between watersheds (rivers flow north
KHUNJERAB PASS into the Tarim Basin and south to the Arabian
Sea), but also between two of the world’s
The Khunjerab and Ghujerab Rivers merge major mountain ranges, the Pamir and the
below the Khunjerab Pass to form the Hunza Karakoram. In the 2½ hours from Sost to
River, the only stream to cut across the high Pirali, the transition is evident from the deep,
 308 G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • G u l m i t lonelyplanet.com
Khunjerab Pass

GOJAL & KHUNJERAB PASS 0

0
20 km
12 miles

To Tashkurgan (90km); Pirali

Mintaka Kashgar (350km)
Pass

NORTHERN
AREAS
Koksil Camp
Kilik River

Dih
(KNP, KSF (Abandoned) Chinese
Security The external boundaries of Pakistan
Checkpoints) KSF & India on this map have not been
Checkpoint Post authenticated and may not be correct.
Chapurs Khu
an njer
ab Khunjerab
Kermin Misgar
KKH Pass
Ri

nz a Rive Gh
ve

Hu r uje Riv
r

rab K er CHINA
KVO Checkpoint A
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Ri R
Afiyatabad ve A
Nala r K
Khudabad Sost O
Sost Qarùn Koh
Gircha
Avgarch (7164m)
R
Khunjerab
Boibar

A
Jamalabad National

M
Ghalapan Morkhun Qarun Pir Pass Park
Khyber (Khaiber) Jurjurkhona Sar (5790m)

R
Yashpirt Tupopdan (6106m)

A
Batu
Patundas ra Gla

N
c Dut
Mungalig Sar
ier

G
(4570m) Sh (5931m)
Passu Glacier Passu im er

E
Avdegar Ziarat sha Riv
Borit Sar l Shimshal Pass
Ultar II (5640m) Hussaini
(7388m) Shimshal
Ghulkin See Around Passu &
Glacier Gulmit Gulmit Map (p311)
Adver Sar
Karimabad ut
Nazimabad h k (6400m)
Ganish s Mulungutti Sar
Shi ala (7025m) Destaghil Sar Central Karakoram
N
Hunza River KKH Kitchener (7885m) Yazghil Sar National Park
Monument Gojal (5964m)
To Gilgit
(105km) Nagyr

Hispar

angular gorge of the Khunjerab River to the stuffed snow leopard, gems and firearms,
rounded Pamir valleys. including the matchlock gun said to have in-
jured the British commander at the Battle of
GULMIT Nilt in 1891. If it isn’t open, ask at the nearby
%05822 / elevation 2700m Hunza Marco Polo Inn (see opposite).
With a library, a museum and the mir’s tra-
ditional second home, Gulmit (gool-mit) is OLD GULMIT
the closest thing to a town in Gojal, and is The mir’s palace (under restoration) is at the
its unofficial capital. It’s very picturesque northern end of the polo ground. Until the
in spring and early summer when the fruit early ’70s the mir of Hunza lived here for three
trees bloom, and again in autumn when the months of the year, presiding over local dur-
orchards glow red, orange and yellow. There bars (councils). A cluster of houses to the left
are many great treks here, including a number of the palace is the original village. The tallest
of fine day walks. of these is said to be Gulmit’s oldest, possibly
The village is centred on its old polo 200 years old; before the palace was built the
ground, 700m off the KKH, though several mir stayed in it on his Gulmit sojourns. To
hotels and the National Bank are down on its left are the carved lintels of an old Shiite
the Highway. The telephone exchange and mosque from the early 19th century, before
police station are 3km south of the village Gojalis converted to Ismailism. You can also
chowk (marketplace) on the KKH. see local women dyeing and weaving tradi-
tional cloth in the old building next to the
Sights & Activities palace. The Threadnet Hunza programme
CULTURAL MUSEUM has finished now that the ladies have a viable
A unique collection of Hunza history is industry. You may be able to purchase items
packed into the dusty Cultural Museum (admis- here, but most of the handiwork goes to shops
sion Rs 30): utensils, musical instruments, a in Karimabad (see p304).
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • G u l m i t 309

WALKS KKH and hitch back. The lake also makes

The day walks or hikes that follow can be a good stop on a walk between Gulmit and
done with minimal gear and no assistance. Passu – about 15km (four hours).
If you want a guide, any able-bodied Gulmiti
will be able to help (see p337 for advice on Sleeping & Eating
hiring guides). Gulmit Continental Hotel (%50254; s/d Rs 150/300)
Out on the link road, the Gulmit Continental,
Kamaris, Andra Fort & Gulmit Glacier formerly Shatuber Inn, has excellent-value
A twisting track behind Gulmit climbs for an doubles – too cheap to last and perhaps re-
hour to friendly Kamaris village, with views flecting the recent change of management
up and down the valley. A half-hour walk and name. A challenging set of stairs leads to

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
northeast from Kamaris brings you to the the Tupopdan Restaurant (mains Rs 50 to Rs
ruins of Andra Fort, built about 200 years 105), where a few Gojali dishes feature among
ago to defend Gulmit in Hunza’s struggles the usual multicuisine fare.
with neighbouring Nagyr. Ask local people Village Guesthouse (camping Rs 50, s/d Rs 400/600)
for Andra Gelah (geh-la). By the polo ground, with a large walled gar-
The track continues past Kamaris for den, this place can be good value, though
another hour, northwest to the base of the some doubles have shared toilet and iffy hot
Gulmit Glacier. A long day or overnight op- shower and all can be a bit stuffy. It may be
tion is to continue on the footpath along the hard to find the caretaker initially but you
south side of the glacier, an area known locally eventually will.
as Zherav, where there are some shepherds’ Hunza Marco Polo Inn (%50227; www.marco
huts. Stay away on windy or rainy days, when poloinngulmit.com; old wing s/d Rs 1400/1500, new wing s/d
rockfall hazard is high. Rs 2500/3000) This hotel boasts an attractive gar-
den and a knowledgeable and helpful host. The
Ghulkin Village rooms in the old wing are quite comfortable
From Kamaris, a footpath crosses the stream
below Gulmit Glacier, then becomes a jeep
track up to Ghulkin village, and returns to GULMIT 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles

the KKH. The loop from Gulmit takes four A

Village
Chowk B
To Passu
(16km)
13
to five hours. 1
11
Borit Lake & Beyond INFORMATION 12
From Ghulkin, a path crosses the Ghulkin 1
National Bank...........................1 B1
Glacier to Borit Lake, two hours away. It’s
1.25km across the glacier, the way marked by 5

a cairn on the south moraine and a big cleft 4 3

or dip in the north moraine. The crossing can Old
7
Gulmit
be tricky; consider spending a few rupees to 8 2

get someone in Ghulkin to show you across. School

Polo
Alternatively, the lake is about five hours Ground Post
Office
(12km) from Gulmit via Kamaris. 2
Jamaat
To Kamaris; Khana 6
Above the lake, Borith Lake Hotel offers Andra Fort;
Gulmit Glacier
10
To Chamangul
Village (4km)
simple meals and basic accommodation from 9
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
May to September. Some travellers have found Cultural Museum.....................2 A2
it closed during these months, so don’t count Mir's Palace..............................3 A1
Weaving House.......................4 A1
on it being open. To Suspension
Bridge
A long and strenuous day trip above Borit SLEEPING (50m)
Gulmit Continental Hotel..........5 B1
Lake takes you to Borit Sar, the ridge be- Gulmit Tourist Inn....................6 B2
tween the Ghulkin and Passu Glaciers, with
y

Hunza Marco Polo Inn.............7 A2

Hw

NAPWD Resthouse..................8 A2
m

awesome, nearly 360-degree views of these

ora

3 Silk Route Lodge......................9 B2

rak

glaciers and the Batura Muztagh. There’s no Village Guesthouse................10 A2

Ka

water on the way. EATING

A return option from the lake is simply to Evershine Restaurant..............11 B1
Gulmit Biryani House..............12 B1 To Police Telephone
walk half an hour down the jeep road to the Karachi Haleem & Fast Food...13 B1 Exchange (3km)
 310 G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • Pa s s u Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

but those in the new wing (under construc- through at about 10am. Flag down minibuses
tion at the time of research) will have central anywhere along the Highway. It’s a four- to
heating, bathtubs, telephones and ‘eventually’ five-hour walk to Passu – about 15km via Borit
satellite TV and internet connectivity. The Lake.
new wing also houses the grand restaurant
(mains Rs 120 to Rs 300), which can be rec- PASSU
ommended for its spring water and other liq- %05822 / elevation 2770m
uid refreshments. There are interconnected Sitting between the black Batura Glacier
rooms for families and a discount can usually and the white Passu Glacier, this is another
be negotiated. place to stop if you like to hike. At 2400m,
Passu is the base for some dramatic hikes and
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Silk Route Lodge (%50229; www.silkroutelodge

.com; s/d Rs 1800/2000) Geared for tour groups, the longer treks.
carpeted rooms are comfortable with tiled Although Passu is one of the oldest settle-
bathrooms and plenty of hot water. There ments in Hunza-Gojal, a kind of geographi-
are million-dollar views from the balconied cal curse has prevented it from growing into
top-floor rooms and a proficient restaurant a town. As glaciers periodically dammed
(with mains from Rs 70 to Rs 260) that han- the Shimshal River and then broke, floods
dles Continental dishes and curries with have gradually torn away Passu’s riverfront
aplomb. land. The 1974 mudslide at Shishkut Nala
Gulmit Tourist Inn (% 50230) Fully occu- created a lake that submerged parts of the
pied by KKH workers at the time of re- village and choked the valley with sand and
search, but recommended should it reopen gravel. At one time Passu had extensive or-
for business. chards, a polo field and nearly five times its
Gulmit Biryani House (mains Rs 30-50) A good present population.
road-stop restaurant on the Highway, of- The highest point of the stunning rocky
fering up a small selection of freshly cooked ‘cathedral’ ridge across the river is 6106m
meals and hot chai (Rs 10). Usually it’s a Tupopdan (Wakhi for ‘hot rock’, because
choice between chicken soup, chicken karai in winter its slopes shed the snow quickly).
or chicken biryani accompanied by two On lower slopes are messages, spelt out with
chapatis. painted rocks, dating from the Aga Khan’s
Evershine Restaurant (mains Rs 40) Near the 1987 visit to Gojal.
Gulmit Biryani House, and almost identical. The village is below Passu Inn, where buses
Karachi Haleem & Fast Food (mains Rs 50) Down usually stop. Buses will also drop or collect
at the chowk, this curry joint has snacks and you at hotels out on the KKH.
cold drinks for those on the move.
Activities
Getting There & Away WALKS
A local minibus departs Gulmit for Ganish No excursion longer than a day should be un-
(Rs 35) en route to Karimabad at about 6.30am. dertaken without sound advice and weather
A special hire to Karimabad may cost as much information, and preferably a reliable guide.
as Rs 600. The first northbound buses pass Foreigners who think of these trips as dawdles

ISMAILI ISLAM
An 8th-century split among Shiites, who disagreed on which son of the sixth imam (Muslim
religious leader) should succeed him, gave rise to the Ismaili (Maulai) branch of Islam. For Ismaili
Shiites, the line of imams continues into the present. Ismailis today number several million in
pockets of Pakistan (namely Hunza and Gojal), India, East Africa, Iran and Syria, and their present
leader (since 1957), Prince Karim Aga Khan, is considered to be imam No 49. Doctrines are more
esoteric and practices less regimented than those of Ithnashari Shiites or Sunnis. The style of
prayer is a personal matter (eg there is no prostration), the mosque is replaced by a community
hall called a jamaat khana and women are less secluded. The present Aga Khan has considerably
modernised Ismaili life and set up trusts and institutions to bring social and political security to
the scattered Ismaili communities.
lonelyplanet.com G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • Pa s s u 311

Zarabad & Hussaini (The Two

AROUND PASSU & GULMIT Bridges Walk)
0 3 km
0 2 miles
This trip crosses the Hunza River on two long
To Afiyatabad
(Sost) (27km) suspension bridges, and has good views of the
Passu and Ghulkin Glaciers from the other
Batura
side. It takes four to five hours from Passu to
Glacier Sh Hussaini, plus a hitchhike or walk back (8km
im
Janabad sh
Yunzben Huts
View
al
Ri Jurjur to 10km along the KKH or via Borit Lake).
Huts Point ve
Yu Z
r From the KKH, at the first hairpin turn,
n Passu Tourist Lodge
south of Shisper View Hotel, a trail drops to
a

Passu Ambassador Hotel

rd
z

the right of a settlement called Yashvandan.

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Va

Passu Peak Inn

Sa r

Climb the far side of the ravine, following

l le

Passu Yashvandan
a path (marked by cairns) to the riverbed,
y

Glacier
Passu Lake Breeze
Shepherds' Glacier
Huts
Restaurant then up another path on the bank to the first
Passu Kharamabad bridge, about 1km from Yashvandan. It’s just
Ghar
KK
H River To a cluster of cables with planks and branches
Hunza Avdegar

To Borit Sar
Borit
Lake
(3km) woven in. On a windy day it will make you
Zarabad
Hussaini feel like Indiana Jones.
On the far side a trail branches left at an-
Ghulkin other cairn, but you should continue straight
Glacier
on. Climb towards the canyon walls and cross
the erosion gully as high as possible – don’t
Gulmit
Glacier
Ghulkin attempt to short cut across the unstable
Andra gully. The trail then leads gently down to the
Kamaris Fort
small village of Zarabad. A dramatic narrow
track then descends a sheer rock face to the
Gulmit
second bridge.
To Ganish (30km) Hussaini, back on the other side, is in a hol-
low below the KKH. It has a warm spring by
frequently get into trouble here. For help find- the river’s edge, used by Hussaini women for
ing a guide, ask any of Passu’s hotel-wallahs, washing (so tourists are probably not welcome
and see p337. At the time of research Hunza to bathe). At the north end of the village is a
Valley Experience (%50004 ext 42) was setting white shrine to Shah Talib, a Muslim mission-
up an office opposite the Glacier Breeze ary active in the 17th or 18th century. A path
Restaurant to provide trekking and cultural climbs to the Highway near the shrine.
tours with guides and jeeps for hire. For a
two-day excursion across the Hunza River Yunz Valley
see the Avdegar trek on p355. For the de- The massive caramel-coloured rock behind
scription of a five-day trek along the giant Passu is Zard Sar (Yellow Top). A vigorous
Batura Glacier from Passu, see p356. Further six- to seven-hour loop climbs to the glacial
treks in the region are described in detail in Yunz Valley behind it, offering excellent views
Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Karakoram of both the Batura and Passu Glaciers. This
& Hindukush. And remember never to walk is a hot, strenuous walk with no water along
alone. the trail.
Skirt around the lake below Passu Glacier
Glacier Views and follow cairns west up gravel and then
An easy trail goes to the lake below Passu scree to the top of a rock formation half an
Glacier from the stone barns 500m south hour from the lake. From here the trail over
of Passu Inn. Better views of this beautiful the glacier’s lateral moraine, west up a small
glacier are from the Yunz Valley and Passu parallel valley and north up to Yunz Valley
Ghar trails. itself, is fairly clear. From a pair of huts an
In the other direction, the toe of the Batura hour up Yunz Valley, a steep 1½- to two-hour
Glacier is 4km north of Batura Inn. The views detour climbs to Zard Sar, with views over the
improve as you climb the moraine along its Hunza Valley (stick to the track: a tourist is
south side. said to have fallen to his death from here).
 312 G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • Pa s s u Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

At the end of Yunz Valley, keep right and congruous location. Signature dishes include
descend steeply past more huts to the valley chicken cooked in local herbs, purziyh sahar
and moraine beside the enormous 56km-long (paneer with spicy fried spinach) and Hunza
Batura Glacier. From here, it’s still two or apricot chicken. There’s even a kids’ menu.
three hours down and across the low plateau The apricot cake (Rs 45 per slice) is divine, and
to the right, back to Passu. chocoholics will have their prayers answered.
And there’s real coffee! The tented accom-
Passu Ghar modation is set up in summer and includes
This hike climbs about 700m in elevation mattresses, sleeping bags and hot showers.
to shepherds’ huts along the south side of Entrepreneurial chef Ahmed Ali Khan can
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

the Passu Glacier and back, in six to seven provide dried and vacuum-packed meals for
hours. The trail leaves the KKH at a Highway trekkers, and runs cooking classes (Rs 300, at
sign 500m beyond Shisper View Hotel, where least an hour). Inquire about the full-moon
power lines cross the road. The huts are about dinner where a filling set meal (Rs 500) is
two hours beyond the bottom of the glacier. followed by a hike onto the eerily luminous
Passu Glacier.
Borit Lake Batura Inn (%50003 ext 22; camping free, dm/s/d
A walk from Passu to Borit Lake and back Rs 75/150/200) Friendly Batura Inn, 800m north
takes four to five hours. From the Passu of the village on the KKH, has some very tired,
Ghar trail, branch left near the bottom of threadbare rooms. There’s no running hot
the glacier. water but you can request it by the bucketful.
Over the years this once-big lake has be- The restaurant (set dinner Rs 90) is also basic
come swampy and brackish (borit is Wakhi but has access to mountain spring water. The
for ‘salty’), possibly because the underground owner keeps a rumour book for travellers to
seepage that feeds it has decreased as the gla- gain and impart knowledge about the area.
ciers recede. Villagers of nearby Ghulkin have Shisper View Hotel (%50003, ext 9; camping Rs 80,
organised themselves to keep hunters from dm/d shared bathroom/d Rs 80/300/500) This hotel is
threatening migratory waterfowl, mainly 1.5km south on the KKH and although some
tufted ducks, which rest here in April and rooms have great mountain and glacier views,
May and again in October and November. their gloominess and the dark restaurant (set
For information on seasonal accommoda- dinner Rs 90) let this place down.
tion at the lake and walks beyond, see p309. A Passu Peak Inn (www.passupeakinn.cjb.net; dm/s
return option from the lake is simply to walk Rs 70/200, d Rs 350-500) The rooms at this small
half an hour down the bouldery jeep road to hotel, 1.5km north of the village, are spartan
the KKH and hitch back to Passu. The lake but spotless with cold showers. Hot water
also makes a good overnight stop on a walk plumbing is planned!
between Passu and Gulmit. Passu Tourist Lodge (%50004, ext 37; s/d Rs 1200/1400)
This comfortable, well-run lodge, 2.5km north
Sleeping & Eating of Passu on the KKH, is under the same man-
Passu Inn (%50003 ext 38; dm/s/d with cold-water bath- agement as the Silk Route Lodge in Gulmit and
room Rs 100/150/200, s/d with hot shower Rs 350/500) This is aimed at tour groups. Rooms are in spacious
friendly inn is right by the KKH bus stand and private cottages and the restaurant (mains Rs
close to the small village shops. The rooms 80 to Rs 170) has a multicuisine menu.
are comfortable, spacious and clean, with Passu Ambassador Hotel (%50004, ext 36; s/d
the more-expensive rooms upstairs (worth Rs 1200/1600) Another comfortable option aimed
bargaining for). The good restaurant (mains at groups, with carpeted rooms and reliable
Rs 60 to Rs 90) has simple but delicious set hot water, plus satellite TV in the lounge. The
meals (dinner Rs 275), and access to fresh lodge is 2km north of the village on the KKH,
mountain spring water. and the restaurant (mains Rs 150 to Rs 230)
oGlacier Breeze Restaurant (%50003 ext is very good.
17; camping/tent Rs 70/250) High above the Highway, Hotel Sarai Silk Route (% 50003, ext 9; s/d
with a stairway to taste-bud heaven, this excel- Rs 1800/2000) This small, six-room hotel, 1.5km
lent restaurant (mains Rs 80 to Rs 240, open south of the village, has delightful carpeted
7am to late) continues to astound travellers rooms with bathtubs in the bathrooms. The
with its quality Hunza-inspired fare and in- front-facing rooms have views of Tupopdan.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • S h i m s h a l Va l l e y 313

The Japanese-sounding Mizushima Restaurant stones hemmed in by drystone walls, and

(mains Rs 120 to Rs 240) has an extensive fortress-like houses of stone and mud. As
Pakistani, Chinese and Continental (pizzas) you approach Shimshal look for a glimpse of
menu but no Japanese dishes. Adver Sar (6400m), also known as Shimshal
Although closed at the time of writing, Whitehorn. Shimshal has hydroelectricity
there are two inexpensive guesthouses with for five months of the year (when the water
traditional-style dorm and double rooms isn’t frozen), and although there is a general
within Passu village that may reopen for store with small stocks of biscuits, noodles,
summer business. sugar, salt, milk, tea and rice etc, it would
be wise to be self-sufficient with trekking
Getting There & Away needs.

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Southbound minibuses pass through after
6am, and the first northbound minibus passes Sleeping & Eating
through at around 10am; put your bags beside Sifat Guesthouse (dm/r Rs 100/400) This guesthouse
the road and the buses will stop. After midday, is designed on traditional Shimshali themes
buses are far from frequent. You can travel offering a carpeted dining room/dorm and a
from Passu to Gulmit (Rs 20, 25 minutes), few basic rooms with bucket hot water.
Aliabad (Rs 60, two hours) and Sost (Rs 50, Mountain Palace Tourist Lodge (r Rs 400) Next
one hour). door and under the same management as
Shimshal Tourist Lodge, the rooms here are
SHIMSHAL VALLEY more basic with bucket hot water.
Shimshal is a large Wakhi-speaking village Shimshal Tourist Lodge (camping Rs 100, r Rs 600)
supported by vast herds of sheep, goats and This hotel was undergoing a major expan-
yaks that are moved up and down the valley sion at the time of research. New rooms
with the seasons. These traditional migrations under construction boast tiled bathrooms
provide the basis for some of Gojal’s most ex- and potentially running hot water. A set
quisite trekking (see p357). Remote Shimshal dinner here costs Rs 200.
was closed to visitors until 1986, after which
increasing numbers of adventurers braved the Getting There & Away
mountain trail through the narrow Shimshal The road to Shimshal is one of the more ex-
gorge. It was from upper Shimshal, even as citing mountain roads in northern Pakistan.
late as the 1890s, that raiders harried caravans There are passenger jeeps from Passu to
heading to Kashmir. In 2003 a jeep road was Shimshal that cost Rs 100 per person and
inaugurated that finally linked Shimshal vil- take 2½ to three hours to cover the 55km.
lage to the KKH. Rockslides frequently cause delays. A special
The road to Shimshal leaves the KKH at hire will cost Rs 3500.
the snout of the Batura Glacier, 6km north
of Passu. It crosses the Hunza River on a PASSU TO SOST
suspension bridge and then enters the nar- North of Passu the KKH crosses a bridge
row gorge of the lower Shimshal River; a over the stream from the Batura Glacier, one
more ominous gateway would be hard to of the Karakoram’s biggest, reaching 56km
imagine. After about an hour of negotiating back into the Batura Muztagh. The dirty
a shifting, cliff-hugging jeep track and cross- grey ice comes almost to the road. East of
ing a couple of daunting bridges you arrive the bridge is the narrow entrance to the
at Dut, a reafforested oasis with no perman- Shimshal Valley. A further 12km brings you
ent settlement but a few huts for shepherds to the village of Khyber and another 10km to
and road workers. Soon after Dut the valley Morkhun, both with basic accommodation.
opens out, closes in again, and glaciers ap- The Boibar Valley above Morkhun is prob-
proach the road. It’s hard to picture more ably the most historically interesting part of
awe-inspiring and stark scenery. Flowing off Gojal. Tajiks arrived here from what is now
the lofty white mass of Destaghil Sar (7885m), Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor in per-
Mulungutti Glacier descends right to the road. haps the 16th century, founding the village
Shimshal is made up of three villages: of Avgarch (3200m). An old wood-carved
Aminabad, Shimshal and Khizarabad. mosque and two forts still stand, reminders
Aminabad is announced by vast fields of of the battles with Kyrgyz people. After Gojal
 314 G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • S o s t & A f i y a t a b a d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

AFIYATABAD (NEW SOST) Approximate Scale 0

0
100 m
0.1 miles

A B C D
INFORMATION Post Office..............................8 D2 Hotel Riveria..........................14 C2
Checkpoint..............................1 A2 Telephone Exchange................9 A2 Park Hotel..............................15 C2
Customs...................................2 B2 PTDC Motel Sost...................16 A2
Immigration.............................3 A2 SLEEPING Sky Bridge Inn........................17 C2
1
Moneychanger.........................4 B2 Asia Star Hotel.......................10 C2
Moneychanger.........................5 B2 Badakhshan Hotel..................11 A2 TRANSPORT
Moneychanger.........................6 B2 Four Brothers Hotel & Natco Ticket Office................18 B2 To Dry Port
(500m)
National Bank..........................7 A2 Restaurant..........................12 B2 Nellum Transport...................19 B2
Pharmacy.............................(see 12) Hotel Al-Mahmood................13 B1 PTDC Transport.....................20 A2
13
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

To Khunjerab
Pass (84km) To Sost (2km);
3 9 Gilgit (192km)
1 12
19 Karakoram Hwy
20 4 5 15 8
18
7 17
16
2 11
2 6

10 14

came under the control of the mirs of Hunza, Old Sost is a quiet backwater and most trav-
they settled at Gircha, Jamalabad, Morkhun ellers will never see the original village of Sost
and Ghalapan. If you’re fit, you can climb up (also spelled Sust), or Upper Sost, at 3100m on
the rugged, boulder-strewn Boibar Valley to a ledge above the Highway. But if you have the
Avgarch, 450m above Morkhun, and return time you can strike north through fields from
in about six hours (but stay away on rainy old Sost to Upper Sost and follow the trails
or windy days, when rocks hurtle down the to Sost Nala. The walled fields, the poplars
scree fields). See Lonely Planet’s Trekking in and fruit orchards, and the dramatic canyon
the Karakoram & Hindukush for details on make for a very different scene from the one
going further than this. along the road.
Across the river from Afiyatabad, about an
Sleeping & Eating hour’s walk away, is Khudabad village and
The following places all do basic food. Khudabad Nala.
Khyber Inn (r Rs 400) Also in Khyber, this
gloomy hotel has spartan triples. Orientation & Information
Greenland Hotel (r Rs 500) At Morkhun, the The post office, Natco, PTDC and all long-
Greenland has serviceable doubles with hot distance transport options are in Afiyatabad.
shower for a highly negotiable price. The National Bank here accepts cash in US
Khyber Village Guesthouse (s/d Rs 800/1200) At dollars only, and buys rupees. Moneychangers,
Khyber, the best option is this cosy, tidy also in Afiyatabad, exchange Chinese money
brown house at the top of the town, right on for rupees and US dollars; cash rates are a
the Highway. bit better than the bank’s rates. The police
(%51223) are based at old Sost.
SOST & AFIYATABAD Sleeping & Eating
%05823 / elevation 2700m Four Brothers Hotel & Restaurant (%51204; s/d
In 1996 Pakistani customs and immigration Rs 150/250) The rooms at Four Brothers are
shifted several kilometres upstream to what overpriced even with these modest rates.
is officially called Afiyatabad, sometimes Rooms and beds are very bottom end, as are
called New Sost but most frequently just the bathrooms, though some have running
called Sost. Afiyatabad/Sost is a frontierlike hot water.
strip of shoddy hotels and dank teashops, Asia Star Hotel (%51115; s/d/tr Rs 200/300/400)
frequented by Chinese traders, frenetic bus Asia Star’s rooms are probably the pick of
drivers, moneychangers, jeep-wallahs and the cheapies in terms of cleanliness and com-
their passengers. fort. There’s running hot water, friendly man-
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • C h a p u r s a n Va l l e y 315

agement and a good inexpensive restaurant tin booth) arranges minibuses to Gilgit (Rs 180,
(mains Rs 45 to Rs 180). five hours) via Passu (Rs 40, one hour), Gulmit
Hotel Al-Mahmood (%50166; s/d/tr Rs 200/300/400) (Rs 50, 1½ hours) and Ganish/Aliabad (Rs 90,
Has tolerably grimy rooms with running hot three hours).
water in the bathrooms.
Park Hotel (%51035; s/d Rs 250/350) The Park has TO/FROM KASHGAR
clean carpeted rooms, all of which are inexpli- Travellers must have a visa to cross the border
cably crammed with three single beds, making into China. For more details, see p378.
it hard to get to the bathrooms. Definitely The Khunjerab Pass is officially open to
good value, however. foreigners from 1 May to 15 November, un-
Badakhshan Hotel (%51039; s/d/tr Rs 300/400/500) less snow closes it sooner. Landslides can

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
The scruffy carpeted rooms could do with a cancel these trips even in summer. It’s a
clean, though there were nice smells ema- good idea to carry a day’s water and snacks.
nating from the restaurant (mains Rs 50 to You will need to have US$4 (or the exact
Rs 150). equivalent in rupees) to pay the Khunjerab
Sky Bridge Inn (%51006; s/d Rs 400/500) The Sky National Park fee at Dih. Natco and PTDC do
Bridge is pretty good value though you have the five- to six-hour trip to Tashkurgan, and
to pay an extra Rs 200 for the rooms with a Chinese bus takes you on to Kashgar next
TV and sit-down flush toilet. All rooms are morning. Recent developments have allowed
carpeted and have running hot water in the the returning Chinese and Natco buses from
morning. This is a place where you can organ- the Gilgit–Kashgar run to take passengers on
ise trekking in the Chapursan Valley. their return journeys, but this hadn’t been
Khunjarab Hotel (%51006; dm/s/d Rs 150/600/800) extended to the Sost–Tashkurgan run at the
The Khunjarab has a lovely rural setting amid time of research.
orchards at old Sost. However, when we visited Organise your Tashkurgan ticket the day
all the rooms with hot showers were occupied before departure. Natco (%50209; h7am-7pm)
on a semipermanent basis by government of- runs vehicles to suit the size of the crowd –
ficials, leaving just gloomy rooms with no hot Land Cruiser, minibus or bus. The per person
water and the offer of free camping. fare is Rs 1500 in any vehicle. A ‘special’ hire
PTDC Motel Sost (%51030; s/d Rs 1350/1550) costs Rs 9000. The PTDC can also organ-
Rooms here are large and comfortable, though ise your transport, and may offer a discount
this is one of the very few PTDC motels where to the Natco for a special hire – though you
you may find dirty bed linen, unswept carpet might also find yourself with a ‘guest’ accom-
and a hot water-wallah who sleeps in. The panying your special hire.
restaurant (mains Rs 100 to Rs 150) has filling Departure awaits customs and immigration
if bland set meals. This place closes at the end formalities, which are usually straightforward
of November and opens 1 May. Ask for a 20% and begin with customs rifling through your
discount towards the end of the season. bag at about 8.30am. They are pretty thor-
Hotel Riveria (%51081; s/d Rs 1500/1800) This ough as there has been quite a bit of drug
is easily the best hotel in town, and though trafficking in recent years. After customs you
clearly targeted at tour groups the manage- proceed to Immigration to fill out a form
ment welcomes all-comers. The rooms are and get an exit stamp in your passport. For
spacious, spotless and well presented with information on Chinese customs regulations,
TVs and telephone. The restaurant (mains see p368.
Rs 85 to Rs 110) has Chinese, Pakistani and
Continental cuisine and organises lavish buf- Getting Around
fets when a group is in. There’s no regular transport between
Afiyatabad and old Sost. A Suzuki for hire
Getting There & Away is around about Rs 60. The walk takes about
Most southbound transport leaves early in 15 to 20 minutes, though you may pick up a
the morning, with the first minibuses full and tractor ride along the way.
ready to leave by 6am. Buses leave when full,
and as the day progresses there may be one CHAPURSAN VALLEY
or two hours between departures. Nellum Stretching northwest of Afiyatabad for approx-
Transport (operating out of a tiny unsigned imately 80km towards the Wakhan Corridor
 316 G O J A L & T H E K H U N J E R A B PA S S • • M i s g a r Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

of Afghanistan, the remote Chapursan Valley Guesthouse (per person Rs 300) in Sher-e-Sabz,
sees very few visitors though it offers splen- which has a traditional Wakhi dining and/or
did trekking opportunities (see p359) and the sleeping room as well as a bedroom with three
chance to experience the renowned Wakhi single beds. Mains here will cost you from
hospitality and culture. Rs 50 to Rs 100.
Just beyond the northern limit of Afiyatabad In Zood Khun, Pamir Serai (%03465226623;
the winding link road to Chapursan inter- www.pamirtrails.com; bed Rs 150) offers traditional
sects with the KKH. After travelling through accommodation in the house of Alam Jan
crumbling mountains and sliding scree slopes Dario. This means you eat (meals Rs 50) and
that make the trip adventurous at any time sleep with the family in the traditional house
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

but exceedingly dangerous during rain, the on floor mattresses. Pamir Serai also has a
simple but colourful Panja Shah Ziarat, a shrine hut with a basic kitchen and mattresses and
to a Sufi saint, is reached after about 40 min- blankets at Baba Ghundi that can be used
utes. Soon after, the first village of the valley, by guests.
Yazrich is signalled by a rare splash of green
vegetation and low stone-and-mud dwellings Getting There & Away
typical of the valley. Fifteen minutes further Regular cargo jeeps to Zood Khun (Rs 100)
is the large village of Raminj, mostly hidden leave Afiyatabad’s bazaar (usually around
above the road. The next three villages – 2pm), from near the Four Brothers Hotel.
Aminabad, Rahimabad and Nurabad – Because Chapursan is beyond the Pakistani
are clustered where the valley broadens into Immigration checkpoint at Afiyatabad, you
a bowl and are collectively known as Kirmin. will need to sign in and out at the checkpoint
Ten minutes on, massive slopes of grey scree at Afiyatabad. The jeep leaves Zood Khun at
are separated from the green wheat terraces around 5.30am. A special hire will cost around
and irrigation canals of Kil, a village that Rs 1800. A special hire from Zood Khun to
spans the river and is linked by a tenuous Baba Ghundi is about Rs 1500 for the return
suspension bridge. The next villages along trip. Access depends on the river level. Many
the valley road are Reshit and nearby Sher-e- choose to hike to Baba Ghundi from Zood
Sabz, each with a guesthouse, then Ispanj and Khun and spend the night there before return-
Shuthmarg, before the final village of Zood Khun, ing the next day.
at about 3500m.
At Zood Khun, accommodation, trek- MISGAR
king information, yak and jeep transport Misgar is the last village in the greater Hunza
and more can be found at the Pamir Serai valley and the base for an easy and fascinat-
guesthouse run by the redoubtable Alam Jan ing trek to Kilik and Mintaka Passes (see
Dario, horseman, musician and ambassador p360). These ancient Silk Route gateways
of Wakhi Tajik culture. As the operator of to Central Asia and China also staged Great
Pamir Trails (www.pamirtrails.com), Alam Jan Dario Game intrigue during the reign of the British
runs cultural and adventurous treks on foot or Raj. The Mintaka Pass was the usual route to
horseback into the valleys and over the passes Tashkurgan before the opening of the KKH
of his spectacular homeland. over the Khunjerab Pass.
Beyond Zood Khun is the mystical and Because Misgar is beyond the Pakistani
holy Baba Ghundi Ziarat, a shrine to a Sufi Immigration checkpoint at Afiyatabad you
saint said to have miraculous powers, and will need to sign in and out at the checkpoint
a popular pilgrimage site. The shrine is sur- at Afiyatabad. Approximately 7km north of
rounded by meadows that host herds of sheep Sost the Misgar link road intersects with the
in summer and, sporadically from June to KKH. The good road travels for 16km through
September, Kyrgyz traders from Afghanistan a desolate landscape of orange canyon walls
who traditionally cross the Irshad Pass with with black lifeless mountains above and the
horses, yaks and sheep to trade with the clear, green Kilik River below. At Misgar village
Chapursan villagers. there is no hotel accommodation but you can
arrange a room with one of the villagers or
Sleeping & Eating camp in the grounds of the post office. The
There is a village guesthouse at the village tiny Qurban General Store has noodles, milk,
of Reshit and nearby is the Chupurson Village biscuits etc.
lonelyplanet.com T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R 317

Getting There & Away

Vehicles to Misgar (Rs 50) leave Afiyatabad’s THE ROAD TO KASHGAR
bazaar, from near the Four Brothers Hotel, The Chinese call the road stretching from
but they do not run to a regular schedule. A the Khunjerab Pass to Kashgar the China
special hire will cost around Rs 1000. Friendship Rd or the China–Pakistan
Highway, Zhong-Pa Gong Lu (China–Pak
THE KHUNJERAB PASS Big Rd). The road is generally in better
It’s 35km, through some of the narrowest condition on the Chinese side. It runs for
and bleakest gorges on the KKH, from Sost 250km through the high, rounded valleys
to the security and national park checkpoints of the Taghdumbash Pamir, 70km down

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
at Dih. You must have US$4 cash (or exact the Ghez River canyon and 80km to Kashgar
equivalent in rupees) to pay the Khunjerab across the flats at the edge of Xinjiang’s
National Park fee here. Much of the Pakistan Taklamakan Desert. This is a region of sub-
side of the pass is within the 2270-sq-km lime scenery and weather extremes, a 2000-
Khunjerab National Park (KNP; see p68), which year-old passage for trade, plunder and
was established in 1975. The pass is one of religious ideas.
the few known habitats of the big, curly-
horned Marco Polo sheep, of which there are KHUNJERAB PASS
now only a few hundred in the world. It’s also TO KASHGAR 0
0
30 km
20 miles
home to Himalayan ibex, golden marmots, To Torugart To Aksu (400km);
wolves and snow leopards. To Osh
Pass (75km) Ürümqi (1000km)

A KNP resthouse at Dih may be available to (Kyrgyzstan)

(260km)
Artush
Ruins of
the public if no officials are using it. Three-Immortals
Ha Noi

From Dih to the pass it’s about 50km. (San Xian) Caves
Kashgar
Scattered along the KKH are deserted con- S Shule
A Shufu
crete buildings – hostels for Chinese KKH R Upal
Tassutan
Y

workers, built in the late 1960s when the Tarim

K

Basin
r
O

Rive

road was being laid to Gulmit. At Koksil the

L

KKH
PA

ruins of a work camp straddle the river at

M

a large side-canyon. The valley walls are Mu

IR

Ghez

ji Yengisar
‘black, crumbling rock’ (this is how the r
Ri
ve Ghez
Turki words kara koram translate) and the Bulunkul
River
river cuts through deep beds of gravel, the Bulunkul
Bulunkul Dobey
residue of repeated mud and rock slides.
Ken

Kara Kongur To Yarkand (75km);

Khotan (375km);
The Highway switches back and forth as it Kul
uw (7719m)
g
sh

Subash Tibet (675km)

ar
climbs above Koksil. Edara
Rive
r
Base Camp
The pass itself is long and flat. At the
Muztagh Ata
summit is a plaque commemorating the (7546m)
Subash Kekyor
1982 opening. At this point you’re about Plateau
400km from Kashgar and 880km from Tagharma
TAJIKI

Basin
Rawalpindi. Something besides the time Tashkurgan River
zone changes at the top, namely the side of Tashkurgan
the road on which you drive (China is right- CHINA
Tas
STAN

hku

hand drive, Pakistan left-hand), so it’s prob-

K

rga
KH

ably a good thing that just about everybody

n

stops for a photo break here. Just beyond the Xinjiang

Rive

Autonomous
border, at the Chinese security post, you fill
r

Davdar Region

out an entry card and Health & Quarantine

Min e r
Declaration and have your passport and lug- t aka Riv

gage checked. A deadpan Chinese soldier, Mintaka Pass Pirali

almost inevitably a smoker, will accompany
PAKISTAN
you in your bus or Natco vehicle from here Dih Chinese Security Post
to Tashkurgan, ostensibly to prevent any un- Khunjerab Khunjerab Pass Khunjerab
Riv
er National Park
seemly speeding, stopping or detouring.

Kashgar
 318 T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • T h e K h u n j e r a b Pa s s t o Ta s h k u r g a n lonelyplanet.com

The Chinese Buddhist pilgrim Xuan Zang

WHAT’S THE TIME? wrote about the fortress in the 7th century,
A constant concern for travellers is clock when it was the furthest frontier outpost of
time. Officially, all China runs on Beijing the Tang dynasty.
time (which is three hours earlier than Tashkurgan has little else to offer, although
Pakistan time) but here, 3500km from if you’re coming from Pakistan you’ll delight
Beijing, people set their watches to unof- in (a) public conversations with women, and
ficial ‘Xinjiang time’, two hours earlier than (b) beer (which may knock you back consider-
Beijing. You must run on both times, always ably at this elevation). Tashkurgan is a fron-
checking which is meant (Uyghur: Beijing tier town through and through. Government
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

waqt?; Chinese: Beijing shijian?). Note that expansion has brought wide avenues, Han
airline schedules and government office businesses and traffic lights but Tajiks still
hours are always given in Beijing time. gather to play pool on outside tables and en-
gage in earnest street-corner discussion in the
afternoon before the ubiquitous kebab stands
See p315 for information on transport from start to smoulder and smoke.
Pakistan to Kashgar. This is the site of the Chinese customs and
immigration post. It’s also the administra-
THE KHUNJERAB PASS TO tive centre of Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous
TASHKURGAN County, stretching from Muztagh Ata to the
From the pass to Pirali you may see herds of border, and is home to most of China’s Tajiks.
yaks or a domesticated cross between yak and Tashkurgan is about 290km from Kashgar.
cow called dzu, and in warmer weather you’ll
see golden marmots as they scuttle for their Orientation & Information
burrows. Pirali, the former Chinese customs Tashkurgan Rd, Tashkurgan’s straight and
post, is four hours from Sost at about 4100m. wide main thoroughfare, has been designated
The level stretch along the Tashkurgan River a ‘Cultural Street for Travelling and Shopping’,
from Pirali to Tashkurgan is grand and pictur- or so the sign says. Buses, northbound and
esque in fine weather, with muscular-looking southbound, stop in the compound of the
peaks along the west side of the valley and Jiaotong Binguan (Traffic Hotel; Tashkurgan Rd).
sporadic horse and camel traffic. Travelling (or shopping) in a northeasterly
The road passes the mouth of an enor- direction along Tashkurgan Rd takes you past
mous opening westwards into the Pamir – hotels, restaurants, gift shops and schools,
the Mintaka Valley, once a major Silk Road and finally the Pamir Hotel and the entrance
branch and historically one of the main to the fort.
routes to Hunza and on to Kashmir. About Customs and immigration are about 1km
75km up the Mintaka Valley, a jeep track south of town on the KKH. Your bus (if you’re
enters Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor. southbound or northbound) will take you
Settlements from Gojal over the Khunjerab from/to the bus station – though you could
Pass to Tashkurgan are Wakhi Tajik. About catch a taxi or even walk in the time it usually
1½ hours from Pirali is Davdar, the largest per- takes for the bus to set off.
manent Tajik settlement along the Highway. You can change cash, preferably US dollars,
Two hours later you’re in Tashkurgan. at Jiaotong Binguan.
The Public Security Bureau (PSB; hBeijing time
TASHKURGAN 10am-2pm & 5-8pm) is south of the bus station.
%0998 / elevation 3200m Reception for the foreign affairs section is
In the Uyghur language, tash kurgan means inside the right-hand entrance. There’s an
‘stone fortress’. The ruins of a huge mud- internet café (per hour Y5) and a PCO with
brick fort still stand on the edge of town, and an IDD telephone office on the road behind
although estimated to be about 600 years the Jiaotong Binguan.
old, local lore says Tashkurgan has been a
citadel for over 2300 years. The Greek phi- Sights
losopher-scientist Ptolemy (AD 90–168) FORT
mentioned Tashkurgan in his Guide to Tashkurgan’s one attraction is the massive,
Geography as a stop on the road to China. crumbling fort (admission Y20) northeast of town,
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • Ta s h k u r g a n 319

TASHKURGAN Approximate Scale 0

0
300 m
0.2 miles

A B C D
7

1 Old
Town
To Kashgar
(290km)

Steps

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Vegetable 12
Pool Market
Tables Schoolyard

School

2 10
2
INFORMATION
Rd 16 China Customs & Immigration.....1 A4
9 urgan 19 14
Tashk Hospital.......................................2 C2
Baza

11 IDD Telephone Office..................3 B3

20 17 Internet Café................................4 B3
ar

15 Post Office...................................5 B3
Public Security Bureau (PSB).........6 A3
Karak

18
3 4
6
oram

Radio 5 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Mast Fort..............................................7 D1
Hwy

8 National Culture & Art Centre......8 B3

Hang

3
(Chin

SLEEPING
q
lapu

Ben Lei Xin Hotel.........................9 A2

a Frie

Gong de Hotel...........................10 A2
Rd

Jiatong Binguan.........................11 A2
ndsh

Pamir Hotel................................12 C2
ip Rd

Stone City Hotel.........................13 B3

13
)

EATING
Bakery........................................14 B2
Ben Lei Xin Supermarket.............15 B3
Ben Lei Xin Supermarket.............16 B2
Local Restaurants.......................17 B2
Local Restaurants.......................18 B3
4 DRINKING
Bar.............................................19 A2

1 TRANSPORT
To Pakistan Bus Station.................................20 A2
(140km)

on the only hill in the Tashkurgan River’s usually noisy and dirty and the shared bath-
flood plain. Most of its multilayered walls and room can be diabolical. The doubles with
battlements are still intact and yurts dot the bathrooms are much better, though it is wise
flood plain. Don’t miss sunset. The entrance to inspect a few rooms before settling in.
is up an incongruous flight of steps at the east The VIP rooms have a small lounge but are
end of town. overpriced. The hotel’s Traffic Café (mains
Y8 to Y20) has an English menu and cold
Sleeping & Eating beer, though the meals delivered may not
Gong de Hotel (%3423396; Tashkurgan Rd; d Y60) This always match the menu description. Unless
hotel is amazingly filthy and the rooms will you have honed your Chinese or Tajik lan-
only disappoint, even at this price. guage skills, breakfast is a bit of a lottery and
Jiaotong Binguan (Traffic Hotel; % 3421192; certainly an experience.
Tashkurgan Rd; dm/d Y15/120, d VIP Y300) You’ll prob- Ben Lei Xin Hotel (%3423488; China Friendship Rd;
ably be dropped at this hotel if travelling by d/ste Y120/150) The Ben Lei has probably the
bus. The management speak English and best beds in Tashkurgan and the suite is very
run an informal information service and comfy. However, the restaurant will only
can change money. The four-bed dorms are open when a tour group is booked in.
 320 T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • Ta s h k u r g a n t o K a r a K u l Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Stone City Hotel (%3422600; Hangqlapu Rd; d Y140) formalities. If you have booked your ticket
The Stone City is often the choice for tour from Kashgar to Sost (Y270), you will be al-
groups, with OK rooms with bathrooms ready on the manifest and you can hop on
though all suffer from hard beds and many the bus at the Bus Station/Jiaotong Binguan
from cigarette odour. Little English is spoken for the short ride to customs. Some cyclists
but staff are friendly. The restaurant (mains have been charged a ‘loading’ fee when
Y18 to Y45) has a partially English menu. putting their bikes on the roof, but this is
Pamir Hotel (%3421085; Tashkurgan Rd; dm/d/ste highly negotiable.
Y80/200/320) The Pamir is convenient to the fort
but little else. Dorm beds share a common TASHKURGAN TO KARA KUL
About 1½ hours from Tashkurgan, across
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

toilet but there’s no shower. The comfort-

able doubles in the newer wing have a hot the marshy Tagharma Basin, is a police post
shower (test it before accepting the room) at Kekyor. On the very broad, high (around
and cheaper doubles in the old wing have 4000m) ground west of Muztagh Ata, called
a tub. The suites are plush but the beds are the Subash Plateau (Subash Daban), the
rock-hard. The restaurant here doesn’t oper- Highway makes its closest approach (about
ate unless there are sufficient guests. If there 10km) to Tajikistan. At the turn of the century
is a tour group, dinner may be accompanied this area was still in dispute, never having
by a diverting dance and music show. been properly mapped. Before long the domi-
Tashkurgan’s nonhotel restaurants are like nant item in the landscape is 7546m Muztagh
meterless taxis: agree on a price before you com- Ata (Turkic for Father of Ice Mountains).
mit. Gouging tourists is a local sport, though Settlements from Tashkurgan to Kekyor
you should be able to fill up for Y30. Little are Sarykoli Tajik; those on to Kara Kul are
English is spoken, so unless there’s a menu, go Kyrgyz. One question that comes repeat-
into the kitchen and point to the ingredients edly to mind here is: how can sheep graze on
you want. Several bakeries open early enough gravel? Three hours from Kekyor is beautiful
to beat the bus, with hot naan (Y1) and tea Kara Kul (Karakol Lake) – properly Lesser
(Y1). There’s a vegetable and produce market Kara Kul, as there’s a bigger lake of the same
north of town behind the alfresco pool tables. name 150km northwest in Tajikistan – and
Ben Lei Xin supermarkets and other general two small sister lakes across the road, Besekh
stores sell noodles and other supplies. Kul and Shor Kul.
Near Jiaotong Binguan is a friendly bar
(Tashkurgan Rd) where you can settle down to KARA KUL
your first or last beer (pijiu) and peanuts This is one of the most beautiful places in
(huasheng). western China, the deep blue waters (kara kul
is Uyghur for black lake) nestled between two
Getting There & Away Pamir giants, Muztagh Ata to the south and
You can buy bus tickets the day before depar- 7719m Mt Kongur to the northeast. Many travel-
ture from the ticket office inside customs (the lers come to Kashgar hoping to rub shoulders
office is about 1km south of Jiaotong Binguan). with Kyrgyz nomads in the pastures around
If you are staying at Jiaotong Binguan you can Kara Kul (Chinese: Kalakuli Hu).
get assistance from hotel staff. There are several Kyrgyz summer villages in
A bus takes passengers from Tashkurgan on the area; the nearest, just south of the lake, is
to Kashgar (Y62, seven hours, 296km) depart- Subash. You can walk around the lake in half a
ing at about 9.30am (Beijing time). To Kara day; the downstream outflow can be forded at
Kul (100km) costs Y25. On departure you the village nearby. At Subash or elsewhere you
may also be hit for an extra baggage charge. can arrange an excursion by horse to jailuu
A special hired vehicle to Kashgar will cost (high pastures), about three hours from the
about Y400 and carry three passengers and lake at the foot of Muztagh Ata.
luggage comfortably, stopping along the way With a tent you could spend days at the lake
wherever and whenever you want. Inquire or on the flanks of Muztagh Ata. To walk up
with your hotel reception. to Muztagh Ata base camp, it’s easiest to head
The bus to Sost (Y225, 220km) is scheduled south on the Highway for about 14km, then east
to leave at 10.30am but usually leaves much, for 2km to Edara village. From here it’s a climb
much later after customs and immigration of about 15km to the base camp, at 4550m. Be
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a r a K u l t o K a s h g a r 321

prepared for the worst kind of weather, no mat- were ready to return or move on. You can
ter what it looks like when you start. catch the bus to Kashgar (Y43) or Tashkurgan
The lake is at 3700m and the nights are (Y25) if they stop to let tourists take photos
below freezing even in the summer. Be aware of the lake. Seats are usually available to Kara
also of summer sandstorms, which can rise Kul on the bus from Kashgar to Pakistan, on
in a minute. Between late October and early a stand-by basis (Y43).
May the place may be deserted. Tour and travel agencies in Kashgar
A large wind turbine interrupts the other- (p323) can organise day trips to the lake
wise wonderfully desolate view and heralds for about Y500, with a guide and lunch.
the presence of the Karakol Lake Resort. Even An overnight stay adds at least Y200 per
if you are not staying at the Karakol Lake person for bed, dinner and vehicle charges.

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Resort – a tourist trap – you can be stung Y50 More-interesting trips, such as an overnight
just for entering the resort grounds (ie the car stay at Subash with local walks, a night or
park). At either of the accommodation options two at Muztagh Ata base camp or five- to
at the lake you will be surrounded by Kyrgyz seven-day treks on the mountain, can also
trying to sell you everything from stones to a be arranged.
bed in their yurt. Horse and camel rides start at
Y30 per half-hour but are highly negotiable. KARA KUL TO KASHGAR
An hour from the lake, at the foot of Mt
Sleeping & Eating Kongur, is the settlement of Bulunkul Dobey,
Karakol Lake Resort (yurts per person Y50, dm/d Y40/100) an outpost of the larger Kyrgyz settlement of
This Chinese development has mock-up yurts Bulunkul. Most settlements from Kara Kul
and a few quads and double rooms. Don’t be to the Ghez River canyon are Kyrgyz; those
fooled by the bathrooms – there’s no plumb- on the Kashgar plain are Uyghur.
ing and you will have to brave the disgust- The corridor northwest to Muji and
ing outside ‘amenities’. Yurts sleep eight and south to the Pakistan border is a Pamir val-
management will fill up one yurt before start- ley flanked by a rampart of snowy peaks,
ing on the next. Campers and cyclists who the Sarykol Pamir. The word pamir refers to
opt to pitch their own tents should move 15 pasturage, the valleys’ main historical use.
minutes off around the lake to avoid hassles The terrain is typical of the Pamirs: high,
with the resort management. The restaurant broad, treeless valleys strung between gla-
(mains Y20 to Y80) here is decent, if not great cier-rounded mountains, with rivers often
value, with an English menu. pooling into shallow lakes.
Yurts (per person Y20) South of the resort are real Just before you enter the canyon of the
yurts where you can stay and be fed in Kyrgyz Ghez River (Uyghur: Ghez Darya), the Ghez
fashion (meals Y10). The yurt is surprisingly seems to lose its way in a vast wet plain
warm, the cleanliness of the blankets and mat- ringed with grey-white sand dunes, a strangely
tresses highly questionable, and the food basic beautiful spot that locals call Kumtagh (Sand
but generous. Mountain). A few hardy individuals brave the
Sawut Fast Food Restaurant (yurts per person Y40) fierce dry winds to sell garnets, crystals and
This cluster of yurts beside the lake, about oddments to travellers. A hot spring is inside
3km beyond the resort (heading towards a plain brick building by the river, near the
Kashgar), is a much better option. The friendly top of the canyon.
Kyrgyz-owned operation has a colourful yurt As you enter the canyon the landscape
restaurant (mains Y25) where you can sip changes abruptly. The 70-odd kilometres
bottomless green tea and enjoy fresh vegetable of road are cut into sheer walls, or woven
and meat dishes. Accommodation is in yurts across huge tilted boulder fields; the can-
with clean bedding and if there is room there yon walls are immense, steep and lifeless,
is no need to share with strangers. The outside forbidding even on a sunny day. Ghez it-
toilets are, of course, rudimentary. self is a lonely military checkpoint with a
few shops and teashops. Photographing
Getting There & Away soldiers or buildings here may result in a
Local Kashgar to Tashkurgan buses will stop confiscated camera.
at Kara Kul, though some travellers have had After Ghez you soon exit the canyon’s
trouble flagging one down again when they wine-red sandstone walls at its northern
 322 T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a s h g a r lonelyplanet.com

end and head across 80km of flats towards tre are Renmin Donglu and Renmin Xilu
Kashgar. The main attraction is the lumi- (East and West People’s Rds), and Jiefang
nous rampart of the Pamirs rising from the Beilu and Jiefang Nanlu (North and South
plain to the west. At Upal (Chinese: Wupa’er) Liberation Rds). The perimeter road on the
is a food stop (a pretty silly place for one, northwest is Yunmulakexia Lu.
whichever direction you’re headed). It’s only The heart of Kashgar is Id Kah Mosque
an hour from Kashgar, but the buses always with its surrounding bazaar and the re-
seem to stop here. Three kilometres off the stored Old Town to the east. Uyghurs live
road is the small tomb of Mahmud Kashgari, mainly north of the centre and the Chinese
an 11th-century scholar famous for writing in brick compounds to the south. The
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

the first dictionary of Turkic languages. As budget travellers’ enclave is on the west
you approach Kashgar, the villages, poplars side, with midrange hotels, travel help and
and dusty roadworks multiply. good food. The market is east of town, and
the livestock market is several kilometres
KASHGAR to the south.
%0998 / elevation 1354m
Far-flung Kashgar (Kashi) is modern China’s Information
westernmost city. For two millennia this ex- INTERNET ACCESS
otic desert oasis has been a Silk Road trading Thanks to an addiction to Warcraft games etc
hub; a Central Asian bazaar with an intoxicat- internet cafés abound in Kashgar.
ing cocktail of peoples. Even today it remains Former British Consulate Café (144 Seman Lu; per hr
just a big market town, with impromptu Y10) A small operation inside the Chini Bagh’s rear building
street-corner negotiations, perpetual bazaars foyer. Cheaper rate if you buy a beer or a coffee.
and a renowned weekly market. Some things Internet Café (Seman Lu; per hr Y3) Unsigned café just
haven’t changed for centuries – blacksmiths, northeast of Chini Bagh Hotel with plenty of monitors.
carpenters and cobblers work by hand in the Internet Café (Seman Lu; per hr Y3) Huge gaming café
old quarter, barbers wield cut-throats, and just southeast of Seman Hotel.
from surrounding fields come wheat, maize, Seman Travel (per hr Y5) Another small operation in the
beans and rice loaded on donkey drays. Seman Hotel foyer.
But in many ways the past is decidedly
gone – symbolically confirmed by the huge MEDICAL SERVICES
statue of Mao Zedong. Wherever you turn, Health Clinic (CITS Bldg, Chini Bagh Hotel Compound,
high-rises sprout and department stores Seman Lu) Basic first aid.
multiply. Lime green taxis, noise and fumes Hospital of Traditional Uyghur Medicine (Seman
and city regulations have pushed out most Lu) East of Seman Hotel; travellers say it’s pretty dire.
of the donkey carts and put Kashgar in a People’s Hospital (Renmin Yiyuan; Jiefang Beilu) The
league with most other Chinese cities. Id main Chinese hospital, north of the river.
Kah Mosque still stands tall, as it has since
1442, and the chaos of the Sunday market MONEY
still defies the obvious attempts to contain You may be able to change cash at tourist
and compartmentalise. hotels, but at the time of research they were
Peak tourist season (and peak demand not cashing travellers cheques. Uyghur money-
for rooms and transport) is from late June changers loiter outside Chini Bagh Hotel and
to September, with saturation at weekends in the bazaar. There’s little to be gained from
as tourists arrive for the Sunday market. dealing with them as their rates are so similar
If you’ve come from Pakistan, Chinese to the banks, and plenty to be lost because
brusqueness will come as a shock, though some are accomplished cheats.
you’ll find an echo of Pakistani cheer in Bank of China (Main Branch; Renmin Donglu; hBei-
Uyghur men. It’s also nice to see the fe- jing time 9.30am-1.30pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm
male half of the human race out in the Sat, winter times are slightly different) Changes travellers
open again. cheques and cash in major currencies and gives cash
advances on major credit cards at counter No 1. A foreign-
Orientation exchange ATM is outside facing Renmin Donglu.
Official (Chinese) street names are given Bank of China ATM (Jiefang Beilu)
here. The main streets out from the cen- Bank of China ATM (Renmin Xilu) West of the main branch.
lonelyplanet.com T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a s h g a r 323

KASHGAR 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles

A B C D
INFORMATION Old Town Admission Gate...............17 C3 EATING
Bank of China (ATM).........................1 A4 Old Town Walls...............................18 A3 Akeda Supermarket..........................31 B3
Bank of China (Main Branch)..............2 B4 Old Town Walls...............................19 C3 Arman Supermarket.........................32 B3
Bank of China ATM............................3 B3 Tomb of Ali Arslan Khan.................. 20 D4 En Te Zar..........................................33 A3
1
Caravan Café......................................4 B3 Tomb of Yusuf Has Hajib.................21 B4 Eversun............................................34 A4
China International Travel Service Han Can Ting...................................35 B3
(CITS).............................................5 B3 SLEEPING Indy's Café.......................................36 B4
Former British Consulate Café........(see 22) Chini Bagh Hotel..............................22 B3 John's Café....................................(see 22)
Health Clinic.....................................(see 5) Middle & West Asia International Johns' Café....................................(see 28)
Hospital of Traditional Uyghur Hotel............................................23 B4 Old City Restaurant.......................(see 24)
Medicine........................................6 A3 Overseas Chinese Hotel...................24 A3 Ostangboy Old Teahouse &

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Internet Café......................................7 B3 Qian Hai Hotel.................................25 B4 Dumpling.....................................37 B3
Internet Café......................................8 A3 Renmin Hotel...................................26 B4 Outdoor Food Stalls.........................38 A3
Post Office.........................................9 B3 Sahar Hotel......................................27 A3 Produce Market...............................39 A3
PSB Exit & Entry Administration Seman Hotel....................................28 A3 Tian Tian Supermarket.....................(see 4)
Service.........................................10 A3 Taxinan Barony Hotel.......................29 A3
Public Security Bureau (PSB).............11 C3 Tian Nan Hotel................................ 30 C4 SHOPPING
2 Seman Travel.................................(see 28) Musical Instrument Shops.................40 B3
Telephone Office.............................12 B4 To People's Hospital (500m);
Airport (12km);
Three-Immortals Caves (20km); TRANSPORT
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ürümqi (1480km) CAAC Office....................................41 B4
Ak Mazar Tomb............................... 13 C4 43 China Southern Airlines....................42 B3
Ferris Wheel.....................................14 C3 International Bus Station...................43 B2
Id Kah Mosque.................................15 B3 45 Long-Distance Bus Station................44 C4
Mao Statue.......................................16 B3 Minibuses to Artush..........................45 B2
Regional Bus Stand...........................46 A4
7
35 22 To Abakh Hoja

Taw
4 Lu Tomb (1km);
Seman Ha Noi Ruins
5

ugu
29 3 Lu (35km)
42 Noorb Aiz ilaiti Sunday

zi L
ish R 32
3 6 d Market
Lu

24

u
Old 15
ia

18
Jiefang Beilu

Town Bazaar
kex

Seman Lu 10 17
Tu

27
ula

37 Old
Khask

ma

39
nm

Produce 40
Baza

28 Town
n

8 Market
Yu

River
han
ar

Kumdarazza Rd 14 To Livestock
33 38 9 31 16 11 19 Market
Renmin Xilu Renmin Donglu (700m);
25 26 2 Train Station
34 1 23 30 44 (10km)
12
Square
Aiersilanhan Lu
y 46
Pahti Ba

Hw
Awati Lu

36 13
m Rénmín
Kez

ra
Jiefang

Tian Nanlu

Gõngyuán East Lake

ko
Payinefu Lu

ra (People's Park)
ige

(Dõng Hú)
Ka
zaa Lu
du

4 41
w

r
ei

Nanlu

20

To Tashkurgan (290km);
Pakistani Border (430km)
To Yarkand (220km); Lu
yu
Hotan (530km) Ti
21

PERMITS TELEPHONE
PSB Exit & Entry Administration Service (111 Telephone office (Renmin Xilu; hBeijing time
Yunmulakexia Lu; hBeijing time 10am-1pm & 4-8pm 9.30am-8pm) Upstairs is for international calls and down-
Mon-Fri) This branch is located just in front of and to the stairs for domestic calls. IDD calls here are much cheaper
left of the boom gates. Chinese visas can be extended here than from tourist hotels and private agencies.
(one month Y160). Alien Travel Permits (waibin tongxing
zheng) for areas not freely open to foreigners (around Y50 TOURIST INFORMATION & TRAVEL
depending on nationality) are issued here. Some English. AGENCIES
An enterprising English-speaking Uyghur by
POLICE the name of Ablimit Ghopor, but better known
PSB (67 Renmin Donglu) The city police station. as Elvis (%13899136195; [email protected]), runs
an information and guiding service that has
POST received many good reviews from travellers.
Post office (40 Renmin Xilu; hBeijing time 9.30am- Elvis can guide you around the old town and
8pm) Buy stamps downstairs, but hand overseas letters to introduce you to traditional life in Kashgar,
the international desk upstairs. There’s a small charge for visiting private houses, traditional teahouses
each letter you pick up from poste restante. and, of course, the Sunday market. Excursions
 324 T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a s h g a r lonelyplanet.com

A TURBULENT PAST
Kashgaria, the historical name for the western end of the Tarim Basin, has always had more in
common with Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan than with China. But over the centuries
imperial China has come again and again to police its borders or the Silk Road.
At the end of WWII, Xinjiang declared independence as the Republic of East Turkestan, aided
by Mao Zedong in exchange for Uyghur resistance to the Nationalists. But after Mao’s founding
of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, the fledgling state collapsed when most of its leaders
died in a mysterious plane crash, en route to Beijing to negotiate with the new regime.
Xinjiang was subsequently declared an ‘autonomous region’, an Orwellian sleight of hand
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

that has failed to deliver much in the way of autonomy. Although China has invested substantial
funds developing Xinjiang’s infrastructure, Uyghurs frequently argue that all the good jobs and
business opportunities are dominated by Han Chinese. Any time spent in Kashgar shows that
integration is not seamless and an underlying tension is ever present.

further afield can also be arranged. Elvis can old quarter, sipping green tea or munching
usually be found at Old City Restaurant, op- on a smoky kebab while being constantly as-
posite Seman Hotel. sailed by carpet merchants, lamp makers and
The following Kashgar cafés are good purveyors of ‘antiques’. See the boxed text,
sources of information and can organ- opposite and go for a stroll.
ise tours to Kara Kul, Taklamakan Desert,
Shipton’s Arch, Yarkand and Hotan plus SUNDAY MARKET
onward travel. Once a week Kashgar’s population swells as
Caravan Café (%2982196; 120 Seman Lu) This people stream into the Sunday market (east of
café/information service was closed at the time of writing the city centre off Aiziliati Lu), one of Asia’s
but may re-open under new management. most mind-boggling bazaars. By sunrise
China International Travel Service (CITS; the roads east of town are a sea of pedestri-
%2983156; www.kscits.com.cn; 144 Seman Lu) Up two ans, horses, donkey carts, bikes, trucks, cars
flights of stairs in a building inside the Chini Bagh Hotel and buses, everyone shouting ‘Boish-boish!’
gate, CITS can arrange tickets, travel permits and hire cars. (‘Coming through!’). Sellers spruik their wares:
John’s Café (%2581186; www.johncafe.net) John Hu rugs, blankets, hats, caps and boots; there are
and his sister Jenny organise bookings, tickets, permits, tools, wedding invitations and wonderful
transport and excursions at competitive rates from these dried fruit. And then there are the medicine
cafés at the Chini Bagh and Seman hotels. The cafés are shops with buckets of live scorpions, jars of
among the best places in town to meet travellers and swap preserved toads, desiccated snakes hanging
information. Bike hire from John’s is Y20 per day. from hooks and tubs of horns from who knows
Former British Consulate Café (%2817312; Chini what animal promising cures for who knows
Bagh Hotel) Secreted behind the lifts in the ‘old’ wing of what ailment.
the Chini Bagh. A one-man operation providing informa- The grounds are a 30- or 40-minute walk
tion, tours and internet. Unfortunately, if the manager is from the Seman Hotel. A pavilion east of the
on tour the place is closed. bridge was conceived as a meeting place for
Central Asian and Russian traders and is now
Dangers & Annoyances a huge carpet showroom.
Travellers have lost money or passports Taxis (Y5) lurk outside tourist hotels on
to pickpockets at the market, in the ticket market day, though traffic may prevent them
scrum at the bus station and even on local from taking you right into the heart of the
buses, so keep yours tucked away. Foreign market. Ask for Yekshenba Bazaar (Sunday
women may encounter harassment, espe- market). John’s Café (left) offers a free one-
cially if they haven’t covered their arms and way minibus shuttle after breakfast (10am)
legs sufficiently. from both its branches.
No visit to Kashgar is complete without
Sights experiencing the flying dust and fur and
The best of Kashgar is experienced by just unfamiliar odours of the animated livestock
wandering the laneways and bazaars of the market. Seemingly crazy men test-ride seem-
lonelyplanet.com T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a s h g a r 325

ingly unstoppable horses, while boys tether ABAKH HOJA TOMB

fat-tailed sheep head to head into zipperlike Kashgar’s best example of Islamic architecture
rows. Donkeys bray at being exchanged for is this elegant mausoleum (admission Y15; hBeijing
Y1000. Handshake contracts become arm time 9am-8.30pm), built in the mid-17th century
wrestles accompanied by full-volume vocal for the descendants of a Muslim missionary
exchanges. Yaks and camels pant in the un- named Muhatum Ajam (or Makhtum Azan).
familiar heat, and vast quantities of lagh- With its tiled dome and four minarets, it
man noodles are consumed at the makeshift resembles a bright, miniature Taj Mahal.
kitchens. Try to get here by 9am (Beijing Beneath the tiled stones in the main
time) while the wheeling and dealing is in chamber are more than 70 graves, including
full swing. The livestock market is east of those of children. They include the grave of

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
Renmin Donglu. Catch bus 16 on Renmin Muhatum Ajam’s grandson, Abakh Hoja, a
Donglu or hop in a taxi for Y10 (Y5 from the Uyghur aristocrat and spiritual leader who
Sunday market). ruled southern Xinjiang for 16 years in the
17th century and is sometimes called the pa-
ID KAH MOSQUE tron saint of Kashgar. Another grave is that
This big yellow-tiled mosque (admission Y10) is one of Abakh Hoja’s granddaughter, known to
of the largest in China, with a peaceful court- the Chinese as Xiang Fei (Fragrant Consort).
yard and gardens for 20,000 worshippers. It Behind the mausoleum is a vast graveyard.
was built in 1442 as a smaller mosque on The mausoleum is a half-hour bike ride,
what was then the outskirts of town. During a two-hour walk or Y15 taxi ride northeast
the Cultural Revolution, China’s decade of of town.
political anarchy from 1966 to 1976, Id Kah
suffered heavy damage, but has since been TOMB OF YUSUF HAS HAJIB
restored. Its central veranda has a carved and The striking, blue-and-white tiled, purple-
finely painted ceiling. domed mausoleum (Tiyu Lu; admission Y15; hBei-
It’s acceptable for non-Muslims to go in. jing time 9am-8.30pm) is a 1993 restoration of
Local women are rarely seen inside, but for- a building enlarged many times over the
eign women are usually ignored if they’re centuries and then smashed up during the
modestly dressed (arms and legs covered and Cultural Revolution. It’s Xinjiang’s most im-
a scarf on your head). Take your shoes off if portant Uyghur monument, though there’s
you enter covered, carpeted prayer areas, and little to see besides the huge, elaborate
be discreet with photography. gravestone inside.

WHERE IS OLD KASHGAR?

Kashgar is again looking like a Central Asian hub, firmly on the tourist trail and with trade
links to Pakistan, central China and Central Asia. The ‘town’ has become a city, conceding
adobe mosques and Uyghur cemeteries to six-lane avenues and row upon row of high-rises
and other ‘modernisations’. For the time being at least, traditional Kashgar is still here if
you look for it:
At the Sunday market and livestock market, of course.
In the old bazaar – a labyrinth of blacksmiths, carpenters, jewellers, teashops, bakeries
and noodle shops. Start at Id Kah Mosque or Noorbish Rd and wander towards Khaskhan
Bazaar, also known as Kumdarazza Rd. Through the smoke of numerous kebab stands and
the clamour of metal, workmen sip tea on balconies, heads are shaved smooth, hats are
fashioned and sold, and caged thrushes sing their hearts out.
In the pale mud-walled, brick-paved lanes of the restored old town (admission Y10) east
of Jiefang Beilu towards the Tuman River, where a network of hushed empty lanes reveal
glimpses of traditional houses – some are signposted as open for inspection by tourists,
where you will be shown wares for sale.
Inside Id Kah Mosque.
 326 T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a s h g a r Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Yusuf Has Hajib (or Yusup Khas Hajip; Sleeping

c 1019–85) is perhaps the best-known Uy- BUDGET
ghur scholar, thanks to his Kutad Kubilik, Sahar Hotel (%2581122; d Y80) This basic place
or The Wisdom of Royal Glory. This ency- is popular with Pakistani traders. The tired
clopaedic look at Qarakhan political, eco- but adequately clean rooms with TV and hot
nomic and cultural life, cast in the form shower represent pretty good value.
of a 13,290-line lyric poem, is a classic of Chini Bagh Hotel (%2842299; 144 Seman Lu; dm/d
Uyghur literature. He presented it in 1070 annexe Y50/120, d old/new bldg Y380/480, ste new bldg
to the Qarakhan ruler, who awarded him Y680-880; ai ) The Chini Bagh complex
the title Has Hajib, meaning ‘royal adviser’. comprises two large towers where the British
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Strangely, there is no trace of the original, consulate’s garden and front gate used to
only very old copies in libraries in Vienna, be. Reception is found in the ‘new’ build-
Cairo and Namangan (Uzbekistan). ing, which is on your right as you enter the
gate (it used to be the International Hotel).
TOMB OF ALI ARSLAN KHAN The budget rooms are in an annexe behind
Another historical site is this tomb and small John’s Café. These are adequate; however,
mosque, fairly modest considering they mark the spacious doubles within the ‘old’ build-
the grave of a Qarakhan ruler, Ali Arslan Khan ing are better value, especially when you
(r 970–98). At the end of Renmin Donglu, (easily) negotiate a discount. Finally, the best
go almost a kilometre south. The tomb is rooms are found in the ‘new’ building along
in a weedy graveyard of disinterred adobe with the restaurants, bar and a coffee shop.
graves squeezed between advancing armies of At the rear of the ‘old’ building is the origi-
Chinese apartments and the road. You may nal consular house, featuring a lack-lustre
be asked for a few mao donation. Uyghur restaurant. The tariff includes a
voucher for the unappealing buffet breakfast
PEOPLE’S PARK served in the Chinese restaurant, but you’ll
South of the Mao statue is People’s Park (Renmin soon be heading down to John’s Café (oppo-
gongyuan; admission Y2), a weedy arboretum with site) for eggs, muesli and coffee. The Chini
avenues of tall poplars, a horrible little zoo, Bagh accepts major credit cards.
and Uyghurs playing billiards, chess and Seman Hotel (%2582129; www.semanhotel.com;
shiang chi (Chinese chess). East of the park, 337 Seman Lu; dm Y20-30, d Y120-380, ste Y800; i) The
200m down a back lane, is a decaying old rambling complex that encompasses all that
tomb, which, according to local people, may remains of the old Russian consulate and
have been for a 19th-century imam. its compound has a variety of dorms (some
with outside bathroom) of two to six beds,
OLD TOWN WALLS some with old Russian bathtubs. Hot water
At the east end of Seman Lu stands a 10m- is unpredictable and room security is dubi-
high section of the old town walls, at least ous. Standard doubles with bathroom are
500 years old. Another row of them is visible overpriced at Y280. There are better doubles
from Yunmulakexia Lu. Construction around, (Y380) with vibrant Uyghur-inspired décor.
on and in them makes access impossible, and The old consulate has seven individual and
there’s clearly no interest in preserving them. rather eccentric doubles and you would need
Another small section can be seen on the way to be a committed Great Game buff to pay
to East Lake. for this atmosphere.
Renmin Hotel (%2823373; cnr Renmin Donglu &
EAST LAKE Jiefang Nanlu; s Y128, d Y168-388) The very central
Heading east out along Renmin Donglu is ‘Peoples Hotel’ has small, dreary doubles
a willow-lined artificial lake, a popular spot with telephone, TV and bathroom for Y168,
for migratory birds and a good spot for a and only marginally better doubles for Y218
picnic or a peaceful walk among the weeds. to Y388. Not the friendliest place in town.
In the summer you can rent little boats. Take Tian Nan Hotel (%2824023; 272 Renmin Donglu; d/
a ride on the enormous ferris wheel (Y5) for ste Y180/220) Although the address is Renmin
a bird’s-eye view of Kashgar – a sobering Donglu (that building was being demolished
image of modern development engulfing the at the time of writing) the operating hotel
traditional city. is opposite the long-distance bus station
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a s h g a r 327

on Tian Nanlu. The Tian Nan is not a bad can devour kebabs with cold beer. There’s an
budget choice, especially if you have just English menu thanks to Elvis (see p323).
alighted from a long overland bus trip. En Te Zar (Kezigeduwei Lu; mains Y5-10; h11am-
Overseas Chinese Hotel (%2588588; Seman Lu; d 9pm) This busy Uyghur fast-food restaurant
Y198) The rooms here are barely acceptable, doesn’t have an English menu and no English
with cigarette-scalded carpets and accom- is spoken, but you can get by pointing at other
panying odours. Though they have TV and customers’ dishes or sticking to the delicious
bathroom, you should negotiate a much bet- barbecued meat and noodles. Monitor the
ter price or move on. bill though!
Eversun (Renmin Xilu; mains Y10-50; h9am-late)
This bright, modern Chinese/Western res-

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
MIDRANGE
Chini Bagh Hotel and Seman Hotel, listed taurant boasts about its coffee, which is
under Budget, also have midrange options. rather expensive. However, its Chinese lunch
Qian Hai Hotel (%2824655; 199 Renmin Xilu; d boxes, soups and excellent pizzas are worth
Y360-380) Modern Qian Hai is set back from the splurge. We enjoyed the pizzas and
the busy street, and the comfortable dou- pasta that feature a Xinjiang twist. Finish
bles are equipped with telephone, TV and off with first-rate iced coffee, green tea or
bathroom. Customers seem to be largely ice cream.
Chinese business travellers, and very little John’s Café (mains Y12-45; h8am-late) Both
English is spoken. branches of John’s Café serve unadorned
Taxinan Barony Hotel (%2586888; www.barony travellers’ fare in comfortable relaxed set-
hotels.com; 242 Seman Lu; d Y580-2680; ai) This tings. There’s a hefty range of Continental
plush hotel is one of the best in Kashgar, and Chinese dishes from omelettes, chips
though the best rooms at the Chini Bagh and and pizza to Sichuan chicken. Coffee, juices
the discounted rooms at the MWIH repre- and smoothies can be followed by beer
sent better value. The Taxinan Barony has and spirits.
very comfortable, spotless doubles with tel- Han Can Ting (Chinese Dining Hall; 144 Seman Lu; mains
ephone, TV minibar and bathroom. Facilities Y16-48; h8am-late) This boisterous Chinese res-
include an upmarket Chinese restaurant, cof- taurant is situated in the Chini Bagh Hotel
fee shop, bar and, perhaps its best asset, large compound. It has indoor seating but out-
barbecue-and-beer garden. doors is the place to be. Enjoy cold beer and
Middle & West Asia International Hotel (MWIH; good Chinese meals brought by the attentive
%2801111; 8 Renmin Donglu; d Y680-880) This cen- staff who can arrange nonmenu items such as
tral high-rise hotel was offering significant kebabs from the nearest Uyghur barbecue.
(>50%) discounts at the time of research but
this may have been because the building was CAFÉS & QUICK EATS
so new. Many rooms looked like they hadn’t The pavements of Yunmulakexia Lu north
even been slept in when we visited and the of Renmin Xilu and the Old Town lanes west
restaurant was yet to serve a meal. The largish of Id Kah Mosque overflow in the evening
beds were still ‘Chinese firm’ but each room with Uyghur barbecues and stalls offering
had a big TV, lavish furnishings and a bathtub good food at minuscule prices. Hygiene is
to luxuriate in. sometimes dubious, but you can’t go wrong
dipping your own spoon into hot laghman, or
Eating & Drinking jiaozi (dumplings in boiling broth).
Opening times for restaurants and cafés use Ostangboy Old Teahouse & Dumpling (Khaskhan
local (Xinjiang) time. Bazaar; h9am-late) The name (meaning river-
side) gives an idea of how old this joint is. This
RESTAURANTS is the place to taste the history of Kashgar.
Old City Restaurant (Seman Lu; mains Y4-8) Head to Sit on the balcony and sip dara darmin chai,
the Old City, next to the Overseas Chinese sticky-sweet tea with saffron and cardamom.
Hotel, for authentic Uyghur cuisine at local As a tourist you will be fleeced at Y10 a pot –
prices. Try Uyghur standards like laghman or but worth every kuai.
fentang (a savoury soup of meat, vegetables, Indy’s Café (Pahti Bazaar Lu; h10am-midnight) Hard
rice noodles and garlic). Vegetarians can ask to find but worth the effort, Indy’s Café is also
for fried vegetables and rice; the rest of us not cheap but it’s worth the expense. Indy
 328 T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a s h g a r lonelyplanet.com

does the best espresso in town and you can Regionally, the best carpets are said to be
wash it down with generous helpings of black in Hotan but to recognise what’s good and
walnut cake, hot snacks or follow up with a what’s not seek local advice from an experi-
cleansing ale. enced dealer such as Ablimit Ghopor aka Elvis
Caravan Café (120 Seman Lu) Just outside Chini (%13899136195; [email protected]).
Bagh’s gate, this long-standing travellers’ oasis
with espresso coffee, apple pie and Western Getting There & Away
breakfasts was closed and undergoing man- AIR
agement/ownership changes. Hopefully it has At least five flights a day go to/from Ürümqi
reopened by the time you are reading this. for Y1230. Try to book at least a week ahead
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

in summer, with Hainan Airways (www.hnair

SELF-CATERING .com) or China Southern (%2980288; www.cs-air.com;
The best way to eat vegetarian is to self-cater. Seman Lu). China Southern has the most flights
A small produce market (Yunmulakexia Lu) and an per day and at least one sales assistant at the
impromptu one outside the bus station on Kashgar office speaks good English. The travel
Jeifang Beilu have fresh fruit and vegetables. agencies listed on p323 can also help with
Early in the morning numerous bakeries ticketing. China Southern also flies to/from
churn out stout naan (the flat ones are ak Islamabad each Saturday. The fare is about
naan, the bagels gzhde). Supermarkets, such as US$250 plus taxes.
Akeda (Jeifang Beilu), Tian Tian (Seman Lu) and Arman Flights are occasionally cancelled because
(Jeifang Beilu) have dried fruit, biscuits, ice cream, of wind or sandstorms (it happened to us!). In
peanut butter, honey and chocolate bars. this case you could easily spend less money and
arrive sooner on a fast bus or the train. If your
Shopping flight is cancelled, just show up for the next
SOUVENIRS available flight and you get priority; there’s no
Head to the bazaars of the Old Town, along need to change the ticket. But you will need
Noorbish Rd and Khaskhan (bamboo steamer) to change any ticket for a connecting flight
Bazaar. Look for hats, Aladdin lamps, antiques, out of Ürümqi. Your airline should provide
Mao paraphernalia and handicrafts. Uyghur this assistance as well as assistance in finding
knives with colourfully inlaid handles are a big stand-by accommodation in Ürümqi.
favourite with tourists, but don’t try to fly out
of Kashgar with them in your hand luggage! BUS
The Sunday market has a depressing line-up of Most buses to regional towns and cities de-
animal pelts, including those from dogs. Some part from the long-distance bus station (Tian Nanlu;
are thankfully fake, but it is not unknown to h9.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm). Ticket window
see pelts from endangered animals. The citi- Nos 1 to 3 are for Yengisar, Yarkand, Yecheng
zens of Kashgar have been selling things for (Qarghillik), Hotan, Tashkurgan and Ürümqi.
over 2000 years, so be ready to bargain. However, the buses to Ürümqi leave from the
international bus station (Jeifang Beilu), and if you
MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS are going to Kara Kul (Y43) or Tashkurgan
Beautiful long-necked stringed instruments (Y63) you should use the bus heading to Sost
run the gamut from junk to collector’s items. (see below). There have been instances of theft
They include the two-string dutar, larger and pack slashing at the bus stations, so keep
three-string khomuz, small tambur and elab- an eye on your bags.
orately shaped ravap with five strings and a
lizard-skin sounding board. The small reed Pakistan
horn is a sunai, or surnai. A dab is a type of The starting point for the 500km bus trip to
tambourine. Two shops south of the mosque Sost (Y270) is the international bus station (Jeifang
on Khaskhan Bazaar sell these plus miniature Beilu), north of the bridge over the Tuman
tourist versions. River. Departure is 11am local time.
The trip takes at least 1½ to two days with
CARPETS an overnight stop in Tashkurgan. Sit on the
There are a few dealers in the Old Town and left-hand side for the overall best views.
some bargains in small shops, but most have Drivers like to put luggage on the roof, so
moved out to the Sunday market pavilion. carry on-board water, snacks and warm
lonelyplanet.com T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • K a s h g a r 329

clothes, as nights can be cold in any season. Chinese section in a minibus plus US$60 for
Unplanned stops and flat tyres are not un- the Kyrgyzstan connection to Osh.
heard of. Landslides in the Ghez Valley can
cancel departures at any time of year but espe- Tibet
cially in July and August. Customs inspections The road trip to Lhasa via Ali requires per-
take place in Tashkurgan. mits, a hefty wallet and unusual stamina for
Die-hards can hop onto the air-con the long, lonely roads – but it can be done. All
Natco bus for a nonstop 14-plus-hour trip the necessary paperwork (including a permit
to Gilgit (Y350), departing at 7.30am local from the army) and transport can be organ-
time Monday to Saturday; at the time of re- ised by CITS or John’s Café (see p323).
search, passengers could take this bus only

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY
as far as Sost or Passu. This rule is expected HITCHING
to change. You might hitch a lift between Kashgar and
An alternative is to hire a minibus to Sost – Tashkurgan, but expect waits of anything from
still a two-day trip with sightseeing at Kara Kul hours to days. You won’t save much money as
and Tashkurgan. All the travel agencies listed drivers expect something equivalent to the bus
on p323 can arrange it; eg CITS charges Y3000 fare. From Tashkurgan to Pakistan, you’ll have
for up to nine passengers in a minibus. to wait for an empty seat on a bus.
Seats as far as Tashkurgan on the Kashgar to
Sost bus are sold on a stand-by basis for Y63, TRAIN
but you run a small risk of finding no seat on The train station is several kilometres east of
a later bus to Sost. town though you can buy tickets at counters
4 and 5 at the long-distance bus station (Tian Nanlu;
Ürümqi h9.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm). A taxi costs about
You can make the 1480km, 24-hour trip to Y10, or catch local bus 28 from the Mao statue
Ürümqi in a nonstop ‘sleeper’ bus (Uyghur: on Renmin Donglu.
qarvatlik mashina; Chinese: wopoche) for There is a hard sleeper train to Ürümqi
Y210/196 in an upper/lower berth. (Y180, 28 hours) but the air-con sleeper is
These buses depart every hour from the faster (Y350, 22 hours). Departures are daily;
international bus station (Jeifang Beilu). Buy tickets the fast train leaves at 4.50pm (Beijing time)
one to two hours before departure, though it is and the slow train leaves at 9.30am.
also possible to barter directly with the drivers
for cheaper fares. Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Kyrgyzstan A bus (costing Y5) leaves from the Civil Aviation
You must already have a Kygyzstan visa. Administration of China Office (CAAC; %2822113; 95
There are two road passes into Kyrgyzstan: Jeifang Nanlu) 2½ hours before each flight de-
the Irkeshtam, which leads to Osh, and the parture, and one meets each incoming flight.
Torugart, which leads to Bishkek. Getting to A taxi is about Y15. ‘Airport’ is aydrum in
Osh is straightforward, with a bus (US$50, Uyghur, feijichang in Chinese.
two days) leaving the international bus station
on Mondays at 10am. BICYCLE RENTAL
There is also a bus to Bishkek (US$50) John’s Café (%/fax 2581186; Seman Lu) rents bikes
but because the Torugart Pass is designated for Y20 per day.
‘secondary’ it’s not possible for independent
foreigners to travel on the bus all the way to BUS
Bishkek. To get to Bishkek it’s best to use Useful routes include bus 2 (Jeifang Lu to the
one of the Kashgar travel agencies (see p323) airport), 9 (international bus station to the
which can organise the necessary permits and Chini Bagh Hotel and Seman Hotel) and 28
transport. CITS charges US$150, which in- (Renmin Donglu to the train station). The
cludes a ‘guide’, permit and transport for up to fare is Y1.
three passengers to Naryn. Onward transport
to Bishkek costs roughly US$160. TAXI
Via the Irkeshtam Pass no permit is needed. The usually friendly drivers of the lime green
CITS charges US$200 to cover the 260km taxis disregard their meters and charge Y5
 © Lonely Planet Publications
330 T H E R OA D T O K A S H G A R • • A r o u n d K a s h g a r Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

around the town and the Sunday market, Y10 national bus station. The official foreigners’
to the livestock market and train station, and hotel in Artush is Kejou Binguan.
Y15 to the airport.
Yarkand & Hotan
These and other towns southeast of Kashgar
AROUND KASHGAR were stops on a Silk Road branch along the
Three-Immortals Caves south side of the Taklamakan Desert, and
Twenty kilometres north of Kashgar is one from time to time were also mini kingdoms.
of the area’s few traces of the flowering of Yarkand, four hours from Kashgar, has a small
Buddhism, the Three-Immortals (San Xian) indoor Sunday bazaar.
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Caves. These are three grottoes high on a sand- The craftspeople of Hotan were celebrated
stone cliff, in one of which you can make out throughout Asia for their rugs, silk and carved
some peeling frescoes. The cliff is too sheer to jade, and to some extent they still are. The
climb, so it’s a bit of a disappointment. 4th-century Chinese pilgrim Fa Hsien de-
scribed Hotan as a highly developed centre
Ha Noi & Mor Pagoda of Buddhism, with no fewer than 14 large
At the end of a jarring 35km drive northeast of monasteries. Hotan, 12 hours from Kashgar
town are the ruins of Ha Noi, a Tang-dynasty by bus, has a Sunday market to rival Kashgar’s;
town built in the 7th century and abandoned smaller but without the tourists.
in the 12th. Little remains except for a great,
solid, pyramid-like structure and the huge SLEEPING
Mor ‘Pagoda’ (stupa). Hotels are pretty spartan. In Yarkand foreign-
ers end up at the Shache Binguan (Hotel Yarkand;
Artush %8512365; s/d Y120/280).
Artush, or Artux (Chinese: Atushi), an hour’s Hetian Yingbinguan (Hotel Hotan; %2022824; dm/d
drive northeast of Kashgar, is a Kyrgyz mar- Y20/190) The official tourist hotel in Hotan pro-
ket town and the centre of Kyzylsu Kyrgyz vides hot showers and reliable accommoda-
Autonomous County. It has a large bazaar, tion for foreigners.
heavy on cloth and clothing. It’s famous lo-
cally for figs, best in late summer or early GETTING THERE & AWAY
autumn. Also here is the 10th-century tomb of From Kashgar’s long-distance bus station (Tian
Sultan Sutuq Bughra Khan of the Qarakhan Nanlu; h9.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm), buses go fre-
dynasty, the first local ruler to convert quently to Yarkand (Y37, three hours). Buses
to Islam. to Hotan (sleepers/nonsleepers Y85/65, eight
Minibuses to Artush (Y26) congregate in a to 10 hours) are less frequent. When buying
field southeast of the Jeifang Beili bridge over tickets, use the Chinese names: Shache for
the Tuman River in Kashgar, near the inter- Yarkand, and Hetian for Hotan.

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
331

Trekking in Northern
Pakistan
Northern Pakistan is heaven for mountain-lovers. Around every bend in the road or from any
hotel window you see colossal mountain after mountain. But step off the road, head out of
town and into the mountains, and you discover a new world of adventure. Walk along the
rivers, through the valleys, over the passes. Admire the glaciers up close. Travel on foot with
the gracious and hospitable people who live here. Experiencing these mountains first-hand
is incomparable and unforgettable.

Northern Pakistan is an uncrowded gem where you can walk for days on even the most
popular routes without seeing another trekker. Treks typically start at the highest elevation
villages, almost all of which are accessible by road. They then follow trails to summer graz-
ing pastures. Some of the more popular trekking routes are also the approach routes for
mountaineering expeditions.

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
Occasionally, a route may scramble over talus (large boulders) or loose scree. Paths can
be faint and hard to follow, with no signposts or trail markers along trekking routes. Gen-

PAKISTAN
eral route-finding and map-reading skills are highly desirable. For most trekkers, hiring a
guide or porter to see you across challenging sections and show the way eliminates the
guesswork. Although trekking through rugged terrain requires a high level of physical fit-
ness, anyone who is in good health and reasonably fit with a little experience in mountain
travel can go trekking here.

Equally important is cultivating self-reliance, sound judgment and good planning. Trekkers
need to know the limits of their own abilities and how to integrate knowledge and experi-
ence to make sound decisions. Most of all, trekking in northern Pakistan calls for an open
spirit of adventure and a sense of humour.

HIGHLIGHTS
Marvel at the glaciers, icefalls and summits of the Nanga Parbat massif from idyllic Fairy
Meadow (p348)
Trek to Rakaposhi Base Camp (p351) for
close-up views of two 7000m peaks
Batura
Savour a hard-to-get glimpse of K2’s sum- Ultar Glacier

mit from above the turquoise lake of Rush Rush

Rakaposhi Phari
Phari (p352) Base Camp

Trek to a stunning glacial amphitheatre Fairy

Meadow
beneath the snowy summit of Ultar (p353)
Trek along the mighty Batura Glacier
(p356) beneath huge ice floes and 14
7000m peaks
 332 T R E K K I N G I N N O R T H E R N PA K I S TA N • • S u g g e s t e d I t i n e r a r i e s lonelyplanet.com

This chapter is a tool to help you get started, SUGGESTED ITINERARIES

whether planning an overnight excursion or Pakistan’s mountains have it all – whatever
a week-long trek. It features 15 outstanding excites you in the mountains, you can find
treks, selected from the region’s most acces- it here.
sible and easiest treks. In addition to these 15,
many more superb treks that vary in length Easy Treks
and difficulty – from easy two-day treks to As short as two days, these gentle treks take
several-weeks-long extreme, technical treks – you to ancient forests, fields of wildflowers,
are described in Lonely Planet’s Trekking in summer grasslands and spectacular icefalls:
the Karakoram & Hindukush, a comprehen- Donson Pass & Kundyak An, Fairy Meadow,
sive guide to the near-limitless possibilities. Ultar, and Kilik & Mintaka Passes.
Eleven treks in this chapter have trailheads
near the Karakoram Highway (KKH), includ- Treks with Views of K2
ing all the treks in the Gilgit & Diamir, Nagyr K2 (8611m), the world’s second-highest peak,
& Hunza, and Gojal sections. These treks are is remote and difficult to see, usually requiring
great choices for people travelling along the at least two weeks’ trekking. However, you can
KKH who may want to try just one trek or view this giant’s summit pyramid in as little as
sample several along the way. two or five days from side trips on the Rush
Five treks in this chapter cross a gla- Phari and Humbrok treks.
cier: Thui An, Diran Base Camp, Pakora
Pass, Rush Phari and Batura Glacier. These Base Camp Treks
glacier crossings are considered easy by Reaching the base camp of a 7000m or 8000m
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

Karakoram standards and take no longer peak takes weeks in other Himalayan regions,
than three hours. Hiring a guide or porter yet you can visit the base camps of Nanga
is recommended the first time you step on Parbat (8125m) and Rakaposhi (7788m)
PAKISTAN

a glacier. Slippery surfaces, jagged seracs in as little as two to five days on the Fairy
(pinnacles of glacial ice), groaning ice and Meadow and Rakaposhi Base Camp treks,
yawning crevasses can seem like formidable and of Kampir Dior (7168m) and Pamiri Sar
obstacles, yet glaciers are an integral part of (7016m) in three days on the Pamir trek.
trekking in the Karakoram and Hindukush.
With many glaciers descending to within Treks with Glacier Travel
inches of roads and valley floors, you have Crossing a glacier can be invigorating or in-
a unique opportunity to get out there and timidating depending on your perspective.
try glacier travel. The glacier travel on treks in this chapter is
Crossing a mountain pass is always ex- all nontechnical and does not require moun-
hilarating and gives a special sense of ac- taineering equipment or prior experience;
complishment. Some of the most unique, the Pakora Pass trek involves easy glacier
spectacular vistas are at the top of passes. travel, and the Thui An, Diran Base Camp,
This chapter features six treks that go to Rush Phari and Batura Glacier treks have
or cross a pass: Gokhshal An & Doni An, as short yet comparatively more laborious
Donson Pass & Kundyak An, Thui An, glacier travel.
Pakora Pass, Shimshal Pamir, and Kilik &
Mintaka Passes. More Challenging Treks
All of the treks start and finish at the Cross a pass or traverse an impressive glacier
same trailheads, except for four of the six in as few as three or five days on the Thui An,
treks mentioned previously that cross a Diran Base Camp, Pakora Pass, and Batura
pass. These treks – Gokhshal An & Doni Glacier treks.
An, Donson Pass & Kundyak An, Thui An,
and Pakora Pass – start in one valley and Multiple Treks
finish in an adjacent valley, so you need to Getting off the road and on the trail for short
consider the transport logistics when plan- treks can make any trip along the KKH truly
ning. This chapter includes only open-zone memorable. For a series of easy treks, try the
treks, which means no government per- Fairy Meadow, Ultar, and Kilik & Mintaka
mits, fees or other formalities are required. Passes treks. A more challenging sequence
Just go! could be Rakaposhi Base Camp and Batura
 0 100 km
TREKKING IN NORTHERN PAKISTAN 0 60 miles

TAJIKISTAN See Kilik & The external boundaries of Pakistan & India
Kilik Mintaka Passes Pirali on this map have not been authenticated
AFGHANISTAN Pass Map (p361) and may not be correct.
Mintaka
See Pamiri Map (p360) Pass
Boroghil KKH
lonelyplanet.com

Pass Misgar Khunjerab Pass

S H Dakrot Zood Dih
U Pass Khun
K
U See Thui An Map (p345) Kampir Dior Khunjerab
D Afiyatabad (Sost) See Batura Glacier
Noshaq (7168m) Map (p357) National Park
N Sholkuch r Thui An
(7492m) I R aj
ve R a nge Ultar II
H Ri du (7388m) Passu
n in
hu H See Pakora Pass Map (p350)
rk Nialthi 1
Ya Shimshal CHINA
Tirich Mir Mastuj Pakora Karimabad 2 Gulmit
(7706m) Buni Yasin Chatorkhand
Aliabad
r Gil Chalt Xinjiang
ve Barsat Teru git Pakora Pass Nagyr Destaghil Sar See Shimshal Pamir Map (p358) Autonomous
Ri Buni Zom er Rive 3 Minapin (7885m) Region

j
(6550m) Ghizar Riv Gupis r Naltar
Chitral Gol Phander Central K

stu
Gakuch Upper Hoper Hunza
National Park Sor Laspur Shandur Rakaposhi 4 River Karakoram A R

Ma
Pass Shergila Nomal (7788m) National A
See Gokhshal An & Diran K
Doni An Map (p343) Park
5 K2
O

Chitral (7270m)
R

Hispar La (8611m)
1: See Avdegar Map (p355)
A

Oshikandas Baintha Brak

M

2: See Ultar Map (p354) Gilgit (7285m) Broad Peak

Sassi
Ayun 3: See Rakaposhi Base Camp Map (p351) (8047m)
R

Batrik 4: See Rush Phari Map (p352)

A

Askole Masherbrum
See Donson Pass & Drosh 5: See Diran Base Camp Map (p347) Bunji (7821m) Gasherbrum I
NORTHERN
NG

Kundyak An Map (p344) (8068m)

Munkial AREAS
E

(5726m) River
Indus

i
er
Kalam Shatial In See Humbrok

Ch
Sazin KK Kachura Hushe

Riv tral
Lowari Pass H Chilas
du
s Shigar Map (p362)
Lake
Fairy
Dasu Point Astor
Nanga Parbat Skardu
Dir Komila
Madyan (8125m) Satpara Gol
Nameh Pattan Babusar Pass Lake
See Fairy Ri Khaplu
Pass Meadow ve Doghani
r
Map (p348)
Khwazakhela Shangla Naran Deosai
Pass Plains
Thakot
HI

Besham Kaghan Burzil Pass

Timargarha Mingora Batagram
M

AZAD JAMMU
A

Saidu Sharif & KASHMIR

L

Balakot
A
Y

Malakand
A

Malakand N Line of
Pass Con
NORTH-WEST R trol
FRONTIER PROVINCE Mansehra Muzaffarabad A

H
NG

KK
E
Mardan
T R E K K I N G I N N O R T H E R N PA K I S TA N 333

PAKISTAN
TREKKING IN NORTHERN
 334 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • W h e n t o T re k lonelyplanet.com

Glacier, or an overnight trek to Avdegar and ing and cooking equipment, food and fuel for
the Shimshal Pamir. their entire trip. Basically you can follow one of
For those intrepid trekkers travelling two approaches to organising your trek – do it
throughout northern Pakistan, try the yourself, or hire someone to do it for you.
Humbrok trek, drive across the Deosai Plains Organising things yourself offers the great-
to reach the Fairy Meadow trek, and then head est flexibility and is the least expensive style.
north on the KKH for the Rakaposhi Base However, it requires time and initiative to
Camp trek. Or, if you’re travelling between shop, pack and organise transport to the
Gilgit and Chitral, try the Thui An trek fol- trailhead, and basic language skills to com-
lowed by the Gokhshal An & Doni An trek. municate with everyone from shopkeepers
and drivers to porters.
GETTING STARTED Most trekkers hire someone to help them.
This can mean anything from hiring one or
Your choice of a trek depends upon the sea- two porters to carry loads and show the way,
son, the length of time you want to trek and to hiring a trekking company to take care
the level of difficulty. As you plan your trek, of everything. The two key criteria in decid-
keep in mind that the process is more than just ing whether or not to hire someone are your
devising lists of places to visit and things to physical ability to deal with the terrain and
take. Take time to also think about what kind your ability to communicate. Anyone lacking
of trekking experience you want. basic route-finding and wilderness-survival
skills or the language skills necessary to ask
WHEN TO TREK permission to travel in a valley and explain
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

The trekking season starts in late April and themselves should hire someone.
finishes by late October. Until mid-June, Whatever arrangements you organise, no-
much snow remains on passes and north-fac- one should trek alone. It’s always a good idea
PAKISTAN

ing slopes, keeping passes higher than 3000m to trek with a partner, and if you haven’t done
closed. This is a pleasant time to trek in lower- this kind of trekking before, go with someone
elevation valleys where fields turn bright green who has. You can travel with friends or look
with new wheat, and fruit blossoms decorate to find other like-minded trekkers to share the
the trees. Mid-June to mid-September is the work and provide support. Although there is
peak trekking season, and the optimal time no organised system to hook up independ-
to traverse glaciers and cross passes higher ent trekkers, you can meet potential trekking
than 4000m. During late spring and sum- companions at hotels or by asking around
mer, the snow line recedes at about 10m per town. Be sure prospective trekkers have the
day, reaching 5500m by late summer. Alpine same objectives and style as you.
meadows above 4000m are in full bloom and Each trek has a relative grading based on
shepherds tend their livestock during the long its level of difficulty in relation to all treks in
summer days. Below 2500m, valleys become northern Pakistan. Two gradings are used in
intensely hot and dry, and narrow canyon this chapter: easy and moderate.
walls reflect the extreme midday heat. The Easy treks are suitable for most trekkers and
rivers are brown and swollen from the glacial follow trails below 3500m for typically two
melt. By mid-August, the crevasses on glaciers or three days. Easy treks have modest daily
are exposed and any remaining snow is soft. elevation changes and may cross gentle passes
Mid-September to late October brings cooler or involve one or two hours of nontechnical
yet pleasant daytime temperatures and crisp glacier travel.
nights that suit lower-elevation treks. Snowfall Moderate treks are suitable for reasonably
also starts to accumulate, closing passes higher fit trekkers and follow more rugged trails for
than 4000m. The glacial melt ceases and rivers less than one week. Moderate treks typically
recede, returning to blue. cross a pass below 4500m with significant el-
evation changes on one day of the trek, and/or
WHAT KIND OF TREK involve less than three hours of nontechnical
Careful planning and preparation are the glacier travel.
keys to the success of any trek. On most treks, Anyone trekking for the first time here will
trekkers need to take shelter, bedding, camp- probably find all of these treks to be quite
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • W h a t K i n d o f T re k 335

strenuous and challenging. If you are at all helpers, porters, food and equipment) to
unsure about your abilities, start with an match most styles and budgets. They can also
easy trek and hire someone to accompany book hotels and organise transport.
you. Working with a trekking company increases
the likelihood of your trekking with a reliable
Backpacking trek crew. Shop around and get quotes from
You may be inclined to heft everything your- three or four companies. This process is easier
self, but backpacking is the most physically when you know where you want to trek and
and mentally taxing way to trek. Backpacking what services you want them to provide, so
suits the patient and outgoing individual with be specific before you start spending money.
a high degree of self-reliance, and enough A list of some popular, well-known trekking
strength and endurance to carry a full load companies follows.
and still do all the camp chores. You also need Fairy Meadow Tours (Map p273; %05811-54310;
good trail sense and good maps. Of course, if www.fairymtours.com; Jamal Hotel, Airport Rd, Gilgit)
you can do all this, backpacking can be the Rehmat Nabi’s family takes pride in operating treks in the
most rewarding way of going. It offers you Raikot Valley, their backyard and home to the Raikot Sarai
the greatest freedom to have a flexible itiner- (p349).
ary and go at your own pace, and the most Golden Peak Tours (Map p273; %05811-55726;
potential for discovery and interaction with www.goldenpeaktours.com.pk; Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam,
people and their culture. Khomer Chowk; PO Box 531, Gilgit) Shafi Ahmad, who
is from Nagyr village, brings a personal touch and warm
Trekking with Porters smile to every trek.

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
You can reduce the sheer physical effort of Hindukush Trails (www.hindukushtrails.com) Chitral
trekking, extend your range and still run your (Map p223; %0943-412581; Mountain Inn, Chitral);
own show by hiring a porter to carry the bulk Islamabad (%051-2275031; House 37, Street 28, F-6/1;

PAKISTAN
of your food and equipment. Some porters PO Box 2059, Islamabad) Chitral’s only trekking company is
may also cook and do camp chores. For com- run by a member of Chitral’s royal family, bringing Chitrali
fort’s sake, it makes sense to allow one porter hospitality to every aspect of a trek.
per trekker. You need to manage porters’ loads Hunza Guides Pakistan (www.hunzaguidespakistan
and wages and be able to adequately discuss .com) Altit (%05821-57076; HGP Guest House, Fort Rd,
all this with whomever you hire. If you want Altit); Islamabad (%051-2106891; House 128A,
to hire a separate cook, be sure he knows how Street 42, F-10/4; PO Box 468, G-9 Markaz, Islamabad);
to cook your food and operate your stove. Karimabad (Map p299; Zero Point, Karimabad) Amirullah
Any porter can help you buy supplies and Khan offers great service and excellent value for your
organise transport. money.
Trekking with savvy porters can offer the Madina Guides (Map p273; %05811-53536; www
best of both worlds; you carry less and enjoy .madinaguides.com; Madina Hotel & Guest House, NLI
the trail more, have more time to do as you Chowk, Gilgit) Hidayat Hussain and Yaqoob offer popular
like, and still keep expenses low enough not treks easily accessible from Gilgit for budget-conscious
to break the bank. Moreover, trekking with trekkers.
a knowledgeable porter can open a world of Nazir Sabir Expeditions (www.nazirsabir.com) Aliabad
experience not possible on your own. A porter (%05821-55120); Islamabad (%051-2252553; House
can invite you into his home and introduce 434, Street 2, G-9/3; PO Box 1442, Islamabad 44000);
you to fellow villagers in pastoral settlements. Skardu (Map p287; %05831-50429; near K2 Motel,
He can help you across difficult sections, he Skardu) Renowned mountaineer Nazir Sabir offers the
will know about every rock and tree, and all highest level of trek services in northern Pakistan.
the stories and lore about the places you visit. Pamir Trails (%0346-5226623; www.pamirtrails.com;
For many trekkers, their warmest memories Zood Khun village, Chapursan Valley; PO Box 363, Gilgit)
are of the energetic and helpful porter who Alam Jan Dario is an enthusiastic mountaineer and musi-
made their trip possible. cian who welcomes trekkers to Chapursan.
Travel Plus (Map p273; %05811-52622; www
Organised Treks .travelplus.com.pk; Kashmir Plaza, Airport Rd; PO Box 590,
Trekking companies provide a range of trek Gilgit) This company specialises in treks from Saeed Jan’s
services (ie a guide, cook, kitchen and camp village of Misgar.
 336 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • W h a t t o Ta k e lonelyplanet.com

WHAT TO TAKE fuel containers, funnel and fuel filter

What you take depends on what kind of trek cooking pots (1.5L and 2L) with lids
you do, how much weight you want to carry, gripper or hot pads
the terrain, weather and time of year. A lim- waterproof matches or butane lighter
ited selection of basic equipment is for sale eating utensils
or rent in Chitral, Gilgit, Karimabad, Passu, plate, mug
Skardu and Hushe. But you can’t rely on find- dish soap
ing anything, so take essentials with you. scourer and tea towel

Clothing & Equipment Check List Optional Cooking Equipment

CLOTHING expedition barrel
General Clothes lantern or candles
shalwar kameez or loose-fitting long pressure cooker
pants and long-sleeved shirt ladle, knife, vegetable peeler
lightweight thermal underwear top and tea kettle and strainer
bottom pan
rolling pin and board
Outerwear griddle
waterproof jacket
pile or fleece jacket OPTIONAL
warm hat and wide-brimmed sunhat stuff sacks and plastic bags
gloves camera
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

altimeter, compass
Footwear binoculars
waterproof leather boots
PAKISTAN

sandals with ankle straps or training Cooking Fuel

shoes Multifuel liquid stoves offer the greatest flexi-
bility. Gas cartridge stoves are lightweight and
EQUIPMENT easy to use, but fuel problems make them less
Personal Items preferable. You can buy a locally made kero-
1L water bottles (two or three) sene stove in Chitral, Gilgit and Skardu. Their
torch (flashlight) or headlamp large size and heavy frame make awkward
maps loads, but people know how to use and repair
pocketknife them and you can usually sell them back for
sunglasses with retaining strap half of what you paid after the trek.
first-aid kit (see p396) Kerosene is inexpensive and readily avail-
toiletries able. White gas (white spirit/Shellite) isn’t
toilet paper, butane lighter and trowel available, and denatured alcohol (methyl-
bath and laundry soap ated spirits) is available only in Rawalpindi
towel and Islamabad. Butane cartridges (eg Gaz,
EPI Gas) are sporadically available in Gilgit
Camping Equipment and Skardu. Plastic containers (5L, 10L, 25L
backpack or day pack with waterproof and 30L) to transport larger quantities of
cover kerosene are readily available in Gilgit and
duffel bag with lock Skardu, but their screw-on lids usually leak.
tent with waterproof fly and groundsheet Plan to use from 125mL to 250mL of fuel
sleeping bag per trekker per day.
sleeping sheet and insulating sleeping pad
repair kit (needle, thread, tape, glue, cord) MAPS
collapsible plastic basin For all but a few areas, the best available maps
are at a scale of 1:250,000. No single map cov-
Cooking Equipment ers all the treks in this chapter. Obtain maps
stove with windscreen, spare parts and before you leave home, since they aren’t read-
cleaning wires ily available in Pakistan. Don’t even consider
fuel trekking on your own without taking a map.
lonelyplanet.com O N T H E T R E K • • D a i l y R o u t i n e 337

The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research’s Exchange all the money you need before
two-sheet 1:250,000 Karakoram series (US$30 departing for the trailhead, since you pay
per set) of orographical sketch maps gives the for expenses on trek in cash. Carry plenty
most accurate rendering of the major mountain of Rs 50 and Rs 100 notes, because guides
ranges and valleys it covers: Sheet 1 – Nagyr, and porters seldom have change.
Hunza, Gojal (except Misgar), Baltistan north of Keep your money in the backpack you
Indus River; and Sheet 2 – Eastern Baltistan. carry on trek and always ensure it’s in your
Leomann Map’s 1:200,000 orographic line of sight. Put all your money in a water-
Karakoram Maps include Sheet 1: Gilgit, proof bag and store it in an interior zippered
Hunza, Rakaposhi, Batura area; Sheet 2: pocket. Don’t let a guide or porter carry the
Skardu, Hispar, Biafo area; and Sheet 3: K2, backpack or duffel bag with your money.
Baltoro, Gasherbrum, Masherbrum, Saltoro
Groups. These maps (US$16 per map), pub- PERMITS
lished by West Col Productions, give impre- The Ministry of Tourism regulates trekking,
cise details with vague trek descriptions on the defined as any walking below 6500m, and
back, yet can be found in Pakistan. designates three zones: open, restricted and
Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV) publishes closed. All the treks in this chapter are in
two 1:50,000 topographic maps (US$18 per open zones, where no guide, permits or fees
map): Minapin (Rakaposhi Range) shows are required.
Rakaposhi’s north slopes; and Nanga Parbat – Regardless of what zone you trek in, the
Gruppe shows the Nanga Parbat massif. These Trekking Rules and Regulations brochure is a
three-colour maps have 50m contour intervals useful reference. You can write in advance of

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
and are the best and only readily available your trek to (or pick it up from) the Ministry
maps of these peaks. DAV also publishes the of Tourism (Map pp74-5; %051-9204550; www.pakistan
1:100,000 Hunza-Karakorum map (US$13) of .gov.pk; 10th fl, Green Trust Tower or PEMRA Bldg, Jinnah

PAKISTAN
the Hunza Valley. Ave, Blue Area, Islamabad; h8am-3pm Mon-Thu & Sat,
The US Army Map Service (AMS) topo- 8am-noon Fri). Look inside for a sign saying
graphic series for this area – the 1:250,000 ‘Operation Section’.
U502 India and Pakistan (US$15 per colour
reprint); and the 1:253,440 Afghanistan – NW
Frontier Province, found only at university
libraries – were last revised and printed in
ON THE TREK
1962. These maps are highly accurate for DAILY ROUTINE
much topographic detail and are still useful When backpacking, you can get up, trek and
in areas not covered by the Swiss maps, such eat whenever you like. But when trekking with
as Chitral, Ghizar and Diamir. Useful sheets porters, you need to consider their routine.
include: NI 43-2 Gilgit (Diamir); NJ 43-13 Porters arise at first light (about 4am), make
Mastuj (Chitral, Ghizar); and I 42-F Chitral tea and eat bread. Then they’re ready to go. If
(Kalasha valleys). These maps have been su- you’d rather not follow this routine, let them
perseded by the Joint Operations Graphic know. Porters usually stop mid-morning for
(JOG) 1:250,000 series (US$44 per map). more tea and bread, when you can eat lunch.
With organised treks, the cook usually serves
COSTS & MONEY lunch whenever you choose. Stops, however,
Per person daily trekking costs vary sig- are often dictated by where water is available,
nificantly with the style of trekking. rather than by the clock or by your stomach.
Backpacking ranges from US$15 to US$20 Carry some water and food with you on the
when you carry your own backpack or hire trail to help you between meals. Most trekking
one porter, buy food locally, provide your parties stop for the day by mid-afternoon, and
own equipment and use public transport. eat dinner whenever food is ready, ideally be-
When you organise a special vehicle and hire fore it gets dark. A typical trekking day lasts
a guide, cook and/or porters on your own, six to eight hours.
costs range from US$30 to US$50. Trekking
companies charge from US$45 to US$120 GUIDES & PORTERS
per day, depending upon the services you Most trekkers hire at least one person to
request. Tipping is optional. help them navigate through these rugged
 338 O N T H E T R E K • • G u i d e s & P o r t e r s lonelyplanet.com

mountains. Guides and porters are always (letter of recommendation) from any foreign-
men; women don’t do this type of work for ers for whom they have previously worked.
social and cultural reasons. When hiring a freelance guide, try to find
one who is associated with (and somewhat ac-
Guides countable to) a trekking company and hence
Competent guides are good-natured; know has more of an incentive to do a good job.
the route, where to locate water and where Some villages have a porters’ union that
to camp; have basic mountaineering skills; assigns porters on a rotational basis. Be thor-
and speak some English. Guides also hire and ough when hiring: make your requirements
supervise porters, buy supplies and organ- clear, set any limitations, and agree on loads,
ise transport. Guides carry only their own wages, food, clothing and equipment.
personal gear, expect you to equip them
fully, and generally don’t help with cooking. Stages
Guides are less useful for parties of four or The distance covered on most treks is divided
fewer trekkers, unless you hire enough porters into parao (stages), loosely defined as a tra-
to justify having someone to manage them. ditional day’s walk for the people who live in
Guides should make your trek easier – that is an area, although it’s rarely clear to outsid-
why you pay them. ers what a stage really is. Stage lengths vary
The Ministry of Tourism licenses moun- widely, often depend upon the difficulty of
tain guides, but a licence doesn’t mean the the terrain, and may be as short as a one-hour
guide has any specific skills. Ask any pro- walk or as long as a full day.
spective guide what training and experience The number of stages on many treks isn’t
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

he has, and if he has done the route before. fixed, can vary according to whom you ask
Most guides are employed by trekking com- and can change from year to year. The govern-
panies, some run their own companies and ment has no authoritative list of stages and the
PAKISTAN

others freelance. stage system is widely abused. Each trek in this

chapter lists the accepted number of stages.
Porters It helps to bring your porters to the head-
Porters often travel only in familiar areas, close man of the village nearest the trailhead, so
to where they live. Porters typically have excel- everyone can hear and agree upon what he
lent route knowledge, cook their own food, says, on where the stages start and finish, and
but speak limited English. Porters each carry on the total number of stages. The stage sys-
up to 25kg not including their personal gear tem is complex and often confusing, but it
and food, a load limit set by the government. helps to try to understand it to avoid being
However, they aren’t licensed by the govern- ripped off, inadvertently embroiled in wage
ment. Organise your loads before leaving your disputes, or victimised by porter strikes.
hotel or trek’s staging place, since there’s usu-
ally too much confusion at the trailhead. Wages
GUIDES’ & COOKS’ WAGES
Hiring Guides & Porters Freelance licensed guides earn Rs 1000 to
Hire guides and porters from the area through Rs 1500 per day for every day they accom-
which you’ll be trekking upon arrival in the pany you, even when not on trek. Cooks earn
highest village or at the trailhead. Avoid hir- between Rs 600 and Rs 800 per day.
ing anyone along the trail; instead hire in the
presence of others so at least one person wit- PORTERS’ WAGES
nesses who goes off with you. This increases Total porters’ wages include six categories:
the likelihood of hiring a reliable, responsible stage, food rations, wapasi (return), clothing
person and deters thieves and troublemakers. and equipment allowance, rest days, and halts
Some foreigners who have hired individuals due to bad weather.
along the trail or who have opted to trek alone Locally set wages, inclusive of the per-stage
have experienced the rare but extreme conse- wage and food rations, range from a flat rate
quences of robbery, rape or murder. of Rs 300 to Rs 500 per stage. Ask the current
Ask trekking companies, hotels and shop- wage for your trek before setting out. When
keepers for recommendations. Ask prospec- you pay a flat rate, porters buy and cook their
tive guides and porters to show you a chit own food.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels O N T H E T R E K • • S l e e p i n g & E a t i n g 339

Wapasi equals half of the wage for one stage You may be expected to dispense medicine for
and is paid in addition to the porter’s wage headaches and bandage minor wounds.
per stage. It’s intended to cover expenses to
walk with their personal belongings back to SLEEPING & EATING
the point where they were hired. When a trek You won’t find developed camping grounds
starts and finishes at the same place, you don’t on most treks. You’re snoozing on the
pay wapasi. When you and your porters travel ground in your tent unless you prefer sleep-
together in a vehicle to and from trailheads, ing under the stars. A few treks have camping
you pay for the costs of their transport and grounds that rent gear and charge a per-tent
do not pay wapasi. camping fee.
Technically, the government requires Plan your meals in advance and organise
trekkers to provide porters with clothing and food that is easy to prepare, tastes good and
equipment itemised in the Trekking Rules and provides enough calories without being too
Regulations. Alternatively, you can pay each heavy, bulky or expensive. When you hire
porter an allowance of Rs 250, which costs a trekking company, it provides food and
less than buying everything on the list. It’s a cook.
unlikely that porters will buy new gear, but Down-country speciality stores have im-
the money helps to cover the wear and tear ported food that can supplement grain-based
on their clothes and shoes. It’s not necessary meals and local food. Many of these same
to pay on short treks. items can be found by scouring the bazaars
Porters earn one rest day after every seven of Chitral, Gilgit, Karimabad and Skardu.
days (not stages). Porters are paid half of the Once you set off, you can’t expect to purchase

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
wage for one stage for a rest day, whether much, if anything, from villagers. Check any
you take it or not. When you take a rest day, food you buy in Pakistan for spoilage and bugs
you also pay food rations. When day walks or before reaching the trailhead.

PAKISTAN
side trips do not require shifting camp sites, You need to purify water for drinking on
porters earn a rest day. trek. The most desirable water, of course,
If you halt due to bad weather, you are to comes from springs. More often than not,
pay one full-stage wage per day plus food though, you get water from rivers. Bring tea,
rations. Porters, however, often accept a rest instant coffee, milk powder, hot chocolate and
day (or half a stage) wage. flavoured drink mixes for variety.

Clothing & Equipment WOMEN TREKKERS

It’s your responsibility to ensure that any- Women trekkers are advised to travel as part
one you hire is adequately equipped because of an organised trek, with a male companion,
their lives can depend on it. This includes or with a group of men and women. Local
providing warm clothing, adequate foot- people strongly advise women never to trek or
wear, and shelter (a tarp or tent that sev- go on day walks alone, particularly anywhere
eral people can share, sleeping bag and/or outside of Hunza and Gojal. With advance
heavy blankets, and a sleeping pad per per- planning, you can minimise any risks and help
son). Ask your guide, cook and porters if ensure a positive trekking experience.
they have these items. Ask them if shelter
is available at the camps along the trek. If SAFETY ON THE TREK
they need a tarp, it should be large enough Trekking in sparsely populated, remote and
to cover the roofless, stone-walled shelters rugged mountains carries risks and uncer-
along many routes. It’s reasonable to provide tainties such as becoming lost or injured.
a separate tent for a guide. If you lend gear, Minimise these risks by choosing a route
distribute it when it’s needed and collect it that is within your range of physical ability,
immediately afterwards. experience and commitment.
You may also need to supply cooking To help make your trek a safe one, follow
equipment separate from your own. A basic a few basic rules: don’t trek alone; don’t trek
kitchen for guides and cooks includes a stove, too high too fast; be law-abiding (don’t trek
plastic container(s) to transport kerosene and in restricted zones without a permit or go
a funnel to pour it, matches, large cooking pot, higher than 6500m); and be self-sufficient.
tea kettle, and a mug and spoon per person. A twisted ankle or a fall down a hillside can
 340 O N T H E T R E K • • R e s p o n s i b l e T re k k i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

be life-threatening if you’re alone. Learn how Toilets

to avoid altitude sickness and recognise its Don’t expect to find toilets on trekking routes.
symptoms (p400). Medical facilities are lim- During the day find a discreet location, at
ited in towns and nonexistent on trekking least 100m from any watercourse, to relieve
routes. Be prepared for changeable and se- yourself. Below the tree line, bury faeces in a
vere weather by carrying adequate clothing hole 15cm deep and at least 100m from any
and equipment. Always seek local advice on watercourse. Above the tree line in uninhab-
trail conditions, routes and equipment before ited areas, spread out faeces thinly on rocks,
heading out. as the sun will dry it and ultraviolet (UV)
The mountain landscape presents objective rays will kill bacteria and micro-organisms.
dangers, including narrow and hard-to-follow On a glacier, use a crevasse, as the glacier’s
trails, dizzying heights, rock falls, unstable scree crushing motion will kill some bacteria and
slopes, river crossings, glacier travel with cre- disperse the waste. When using a portable
vasses, and avalanches. Keep your adventure toilet tent at camp sites, dig a pit half a metre
from turning into a nightmare by recognising deep and at least 100m from any watercourse.
these conditions and approaching them sensi- Encourage everyone to use it. When leaving,
bly. Be aware of your immediate surroundings, cover the pit with dirt at least 3cm to 4cm
pay attention on the trail, use proper tech- above ground level to allow for decomposi-
niques, never go on a glacier alone, and un- tion and settling. Burn toilet paper rather
derstand that objective dangers can alter routes than discarding it.
seasonally or from year to year. If you have no
experience with such conditions or are at all Rubbish
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

uncertain of your ability to cope, hire a guide. There are no rubbish-disposal systems along
trekking routes. Separate all rubbish into or-
RESPONSIBLE TREKKING ganic, burnable and nonburnable. Dispose
PAKISTAN

Codes of conduct aren’t readily available and of organic waste (food scraps) by feeding it
little is done to implement eco-trekking prin- to domestic livestock. Above 4000m, organic
ciples. Hence, much depends upon you as waste takes decades to decay, so carry it to
an individual adopting an activist approach. lower elevations for disposal. Collect burn-
The most important single action you can able rubbish and burn it. Remove as much
take to minimise your overall impact is to packaging as possible from foods before the
reduce the size of your trekking party. The trek and store food in reusable containers.
following suggestions make a difference in Pack out nonburnable rubbish (ie tins, bot-
protecting the environment for visitors’ tles, aluminium foil, plastics) for disposal in a
enjoyment and preserving communities’ town. Don’t bury nonburnable rubbish as wild
resources. animals may dig it up and scatter it.

Fires & Low-Impact Cooking Other Considerations

Trees grow slowly in arid mountains, making Use established camp sites to localise the
wood a scarce and valuable resource. Wood environmental impact and minimise overall
belongs to the area’s inhabitants and visitors disturbance. Select a site at least 50m from
have no right to use it. Therefore, cook on a open watercourses and the trail. Don’t cut
stove and not on wood fires. Bring adequate trees, limbs or brush to make camp improve-
clothing so you don’t depend on campfires ments. Don’t make trenches around tents, as
for warmth. Supply your guide and porters these leave the soil prone to erosion. Before
with stoves and adequate clothing. leaving a camp site, naturalise the area, and
replace rocks, wood or anything else you
Water moved. Repair anything you may have dam-
Human waste or other contaminants enter- aged (eg a stone wall or water channel). Use
ing open watercourses spread diseases and huts in pastures only if invited to do so, as
pose a health risk for residents, trekkers and they’re the shepherds’ private property.
wildlife. Wash yourself, your cooking utensils
and your clothes in a basin and discard soapy Wildlife Conservation
water (even if the soap is biodegradable) and Unauthorised hunting of and trade in en-
toothpaste at least 50m from watercourses. dangered species is illegal, so don’t condone
lonelyplanet.com C H I T R A L & G H I Z A R 341

or engage in it. And don’t harass or feed eyes need protection that filters a minimum
wildlife, or eat wild game. of 90% UV-A and UV-B radiation when
trekking on snow or higher than 3500m.
Environmental Organisations Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is a
All these organisations welcome volunteers concern on high-altitude treks. Although
and support: all treks in this chapter stay below 5000m,
Alpine Club of Pakistan (%051-9208963; www acclimatisation is important. Everyone accli-
.alpineclub.org.pk; Room 8, Ground fl, Jinnah Stadium, matises at varying rates, so familiarise your-
Pakistan Sports Complex, Kashmir Highway, near Aabpara, self with the symptoms of AMS (see p400).
Islamabad) Represents Pakistan in the International Moun-
taineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) and works to Helicopter Rescue & Evacuation
preserve and protect Pakistan’s mountain environment. Sometimes things go wrong, and rescue or
World Conservation Union (IUCN-Pakistan; %021- evacuation may become necessary. Rapid
5861540/3; www.iucn.pk/iucn-in-pakistan.htm; 1 Bath search-and-rescue organisations are una-
Island Rd, Clifton, Karachi) Works to conserve the integrity vailable, so be prepared to rescue yourself
and diversity of nature. Its Mountain Areas Conservancy or a fellow trekker. Assess your situation and
Project (MACP) supports community-based conservation in don’t panic. Evacuation can mean shorten-
Pakistan’s mountains. ing a trek because of illness or injury or re-
World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF-Pakistan; sponding immediately to a serious situation.
%042-111993725; www.wwfpak.org; PO Box 5180, For minor illness or injury, a victim may be
Ferozepur Rd, Lahore) Works to save wildlife and their able to walk with assistance. When a victim
habitats through extending support to communities. can’t walk, they may be carried on a por-

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
ter’s back or on a pack animal. Helicopter
HEALTH rescue cannot be guaranteed and is only for
See the Health chapter (p395) for de- life-threatening emergencies.

PAKISTAN
tailed information. Make sure you are in Helicopter rescue, more frequently re-
good health before starting your trek. The quested for mountaineers rather than
most important thing you can do to stay trekkers, usually takes more than 48 hours
healthy and avoid most stomach upsets is to organise and is likely beyond the budget
to purify your drinking water. Wash your of independent trekkers. Askari Aviation (%051-
hands with soap regularly to avoid colds or 5505760/2, 0300-8502701; www.askariaviation.com; House 21,
upper-respiratory tract infections, and bring Chaklala 1, Rawalpindi) operates rescue services. It
medicines to treat any symptoms. Ankle and requires a US$6000 up-front, refundable cash
knee sprains are common trekking injuries, deposit before flying (understanding that you
especially when carrying your own backpack. are liable for costs above US$6000), and a
Wear good boots with ankle support and pre-trek briefing at its office. If you’re carry-
pay attention on the trail. The old maxim ing insurance that covers helicopter rescue, a
of ‘walk when you walk, and look when you trekking company or your embassy may agree
look’ makes the essential point. to put up the cash bond in an emergency.
Daytime temperatures often soar. Drink
plenty of noncaffeinated liquids and treat
heat with respect. Dehydration occurs in
both cold and hot conditions. Always carry
CHITRAL & GHIZAR
water while trekking, drink a minimum of Tucked into Pakistan’s northwest corner,
3L per day and trek early in the morning to Chitral’s alpine country, old-growth forests
avoid midday heat. Don’t wait until you feel and hospitable inhabitants impart a unique
thirsty to drink. and charming character. Above its cultivated
Protect both your skin and eyes from the valleys tower innumerable snowcapped peaks
effects of all-day sun. At high altitude you including Tirich Mir (7706m), the highest
can get sunburnt quickly, even on cloudy peak in the Hindukush Range.
or snowy days. Use a high-quality sunscreen The beautiful, easily accessible, but rarely
and lip moisturiser with a Sun Protection visited Chitral Gol National Park is Chitral’s
Factor (SPF) of 50 or above, and reapply it best-kept secret, home to magnificent markhor
throughout the day. Wear protective cloth- (large wild goats) and snow leopards. In the
ing for your face, ears, neck and arms. Your nearby Kalasha valleys, few tourists go beyond
 342 C H I T R A L & G H I Z A R • • G o k h s h a l A n & D o n i A n lonelyplanet.com

the roadside hotels. Trekking from the park Getting To/From the Trek
to the Kalasha valleys or between the valleys For accommodation and transport infor-
themselves offers the opportunity to travel mation, see p228 for Chaghbini, and p231
with the Kalasha, and to get to know, respect (accommodation) and p230 (transport)
and appreciate them and their land. for Balanguru.
Visit Ghizar to discover isolated valleys,
traditional Kho and Burusho villages and glo- The Trek
rious passes through the western Karakoram In an almost 360-degree panorama from
and Hindu Raj Range where countless 6000m Chaghbini (2925m), Tirich Mir rises to the
summits fill the horizon. Less heavily glaciated north, Buni Zom (6550m) to the northeast and
than the central Karakoram or Hindukush, rocky Ghariet to the southeast. On Day 1 (five
Ghizar is a trekker’s paradise. to six hours, 5.8km), a well-constructed trail
heads west following a forest ridge, ascending
GOKHSHAL AN & DONI AN gradually towards the rocky Ishperudeh ridge.
The trail narrows to a track used by cows
and ascends a grassy slope leading towards
TREK FACTS the ridge, two hours from Chaghbini. Scenic
Duration three days Gokhshal An, a small notch south of a larger but
Distance 30km higher saddle, is the lowest point on the ridge,
Standard moderate reached in another hour.
Season July–September A steep 30-minute descent zigzagging on
scree leads to a more gentle trail that crosses
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

Start Chaghbini
Finish Balanguru several streams as it descends to the valley
Public Transport finish only floor. Continue along the Gokhshal stream to
Summary A classic traverse from Chitral Gol the game-watchers’ hut at Gokhshal (2650m),
PAKISTAN

National Park to the Kalasha valleys rewards two to 2½ hours from the pass. Camp near the
with excellent views of Tirich Mir and the hut, which sits in an amphitheatre-like gorge
likelihood of watching wildlife. adjacent to a pine-forested boulder field.
Cross the Gokhshal stream on Day 2
(seven to eight hours, 11km) and head west
The deservedly popular trek from Chitral Gol southwest to ascend the easternmost (first) of
National Park to Rumbur, the northernmost three forested spurs from the ridge separating
of the Kalasha valleys, crosses two scenic Gokhshal and Dundini Gols. The often faint
passes, Gokhshal An (3720m) and Doni An trail contours for one hour to the ridge top
(3713m). The rugged trails offer wildlife- (3049m), south of Gokhshal, visible below.
watching opportunities and superb views of It then contours west and south, descending
the Hindukush Range. Trekking days average to Dundini Gol (2772m) and a footbridge
six to seven hours with almost 1000m of eleva- across the stream, an hour from the ridge.
tion gain and loss per day. From the stream, ascend steeply and con-
tour south southwest along the Doni Gol’s
Planning true left (west) bank to meet the stream one
The US AMS 1:253,440 map I 42-F Chitral hour from the footbridge. Cross the stream
covers the park, but doesn’t show the route over a snow bridge, present even late in the
across Gokhshal An. The British Survey of season, and ascend along the true right (east)
India 1:63,360 maps 38 M/9, 38 M/13, and bank for 30 minutes to Doni Ghari (3550m),
38 M/10 (found at university libraries) show an alternative camp site.
more detail. Follow occasional cairns and ascend steep
Porters ask for a flat rate of Rs 2000 for the switchbacks well above the Doni Gol, passing
trip, which totals four stages. You can organ- 100m beneath a prominent isolated stand of
ise a game-watcher to go with you from the cedars. A gully south of these trees leads up
park’s office (see p228). to a grassy ridge from where distant, but
Trekking in the reverse direction with prominent, Tirich Mir comes into view.
Rumbur porters, who ask for Rs 400 per Numerous livestock tracks lead up the
day, is less expensive but has more uphill flower-covered slopes to converge in one
walking. hour at Doni An, the southern boundary of
lonelyplanet.com C H I T R A L & G H I Z A R • • G o k h s h a l A n & D o n i A n 343

GOKHSHAL AN & DONI AN 0

0
3 km
2 miles

Not for Navigation

use listed maps
Gokhshal An
(3720m)

CHITRAL GOL

la
NATIONAL PARK

Na
Gokhshal
Gol

dehru
DAY 2 Gokhshal START To Lutkho

Ishpe
(2650m)
Chaghbini
(2925m)

Chitral Birmogh
Dundini Go Kushunisuk Go Lasht
l Kasavir l
(2195m)

Merin
(1980m)
l
Go

Bironshal
ni

CHITRAL GOL
Do

To
NATIONAL PARK Booster Mastuj
Doni Ghari (107km)
(3350m)

Ch
itra
l G
Doni An/ Chitral
Uta

Chimirsan An

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
ol
Mulen
k

(3713m) Gol
Go
l

See Chitral Town

Map (p223)
Chimirsan Ghari

PAKISTAN
(3100m)
DAY 3
Uchusht

r
ve
Uchusht Ri
Gol
tral
C him

Rodi Gol
Chi

Baltum i
rsa

(2762m)
n

Jajok
Gol
Urghuch Dok
Go

(3510m)
l

Urghuch Go
l
Rumbur Gol Shekhanandeh
(2250m)

Urghuch
Revalik/
Rawelik
Sundargah

Traghdhu Sajigor FINISH

Ru Balanguru (1860m)
Narajau m Batet
bu Grom
r
Ru
Va

Kalashgrum
lley

bu

To Ayun
r Go

(3km);
Kundyak An To Ayun Drosh
(2855m) (22km)
l

(5km)

the Chitral Gol watershed. The impressive 1½ to two hours below the pass, are along
views extend beyond Tirich Mir to distant both sides of Utak Gol, which flows into the
Buni Zom. Above and to the west of the pass true right (west) side of the main Chimirsan
is the markhors’ summer habitat. Gol. Rumbur and Uchust shepherds, both
The descent from Doni An contours Kalasha and Muslim, tend goats here.
along the east (left) side of the bowl be- On Day 3 (five to 5½ hours, 12.5km), de-
neath the pass, heading towards the plain scend for 30 minutes to a crossing of Utak Gol
below. The huts of Chimirsan Ghari (3100m), then continue down through old-growth cedar
 344 C H I T R A L & G H I Z A R • • D o n s o n Pa s s & K u n d y a k A n lonelyplanet.com

forest two hours to the hut at Baltum (2762m)

along the Rodi Gol’s south bank. Another hour
DONSON PASS &
down through forest above Chimirsan Gol’s KUNDYAK AN 00 2 km
1 mile

To Doni To Urghuch
west bank leads to the Nuristani-style houses An (5km) Dok (1km)
above the Jajok Gol. Descend amid cornfields to
cross Jajok Gol, then stay well above Chimirsan Shekhanandeh
(2070m) Not for Navigation
Gol’s true right bank for an hour before de- use listed maps

Ru
m
bu
scending the ridge separating Chimirsan Gol

r
Go
and Rumbur Gol to Shekhanandeh (2250m).

l
Rawelik
Sundargah
This village is home to Kati-speaking Bashgali
Sajigor Balanguru
people who have converted to Islam. From Traghdhur
(1860m) FINISH
Naharjao/Narajau
here, a wide track suitable for vehicles leads in (2225m)
Grom
Batet

one hour to Balanguru (1860m).

To Urghuch
Kalashgrum (5km)
DONSON PASS & KUNDYAK AN

Rum
Kundyak An
(2855m)

bur
Val
Lachorsin

Ru
TREK FACTS

ley

mb
ur
Duration two days

Gol
DAY 2
Distance 14km Gomenah
(1980m)
Standard easy

l
Go
To
Acholgah Gol Shigala Acholgah
Season mid-April–mid-October Ayun
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

Passuwala (5km)
Start Batrik Gogalog
D
on
so
Finish Balanguru n
Go Gorasin
l
Public Transport yes
PAKISTAN

Summary Ancient cedar forests, streams, To

Ayun
infrequently visited Kalasha settlements (5km)
Donson Pass
and Hindukush vistas reward trekkers who (2970m)
traverse the passes between Bumboret and
Rumbur.

Anish Go y
l

Brun et alle
b or
The trekking route across the Donson Pass Bum oret V
Batrik b
m
(2970m) and Kundyak An (2855m) con- (2040m) Bu
START
nects the Kalasha valleys of Bumboret and Krakal

Rumbur. The scenic passes offer views of the Gumbak

Hindukush. Between the passes lies Acholgah,

a valley inhabited by Kalasha from Bumboret.
Although the trek is just two days long and is starts from Krakal where a canal crosses the
relatively low in elevation, it has a 900m ascent road near the Alexandra Hotel.
plus a 900m descent on each day. It’s useful For Balanguru and Grom accommodation
to have someone show you the trails, which and transport information, see p231.
are steep and not always obvious.
The Trek
Planning From Batrik (2040m) on Day 1 (3½ to 4½
The US AMS 1:253,440 map I 42-F Chitral hours, 5.7km), a well-defined trail ascends
covers the trek. Kalasha recommend hiring through a forest of massive cedars and oc-
porters who ask for Rs 500 per day. casional chilghoza (pine-nut tree) to meet a
more gentle trail from Krakal. The two trails
Getting To/From the Trek join and continue to Donson Pass, crowned by
For Batrik and Krakal accommodation and ancient cedars. To the north gleam Tirich Mir
transport information, see Bumboret Valley, and Noshaq (7492m). The descent from the
p232 and p230. A 3m-wide footpath leading to pass leads through flower-filled meadows into
Batrik starts at the road adjacent to a mosque a cedar forest high above the Donson Gol and
near the Frontier Hotel. An alternative trail down to the Acholgah Gol. Along the stream
lonelyplanet.com C H I T R A L & G H I Z A R • • T h u i A n 345

are several Kalasha settlements, including The Thui An (4528m) is the perfect introduc-
Gomenah (1980m) where you can camp. tion to nontechnical glacier travel. The route
The trail ascends on Day 2 (four to five takes you across a surprisingly straightfor-
hours, 4.5km) through more impressive ce- ward and snow-free pass.
dars. Notches have been cut into the trees to Trekking days average only four hours with
encourage bees to build hives, so Kalasha can 700m of elevation change. The route involves
collect honey. The old-growth forest offers less than half a day traversing the glacier east of
morel mushrooms in spring, and later, wild the pass, which even first-timers can safely nav-
strawberries. The forested Kundyak An gives igate with the assistance of a porter. Splendid
sweeping views south towards the Donson alpine amphitheatres surrounded by dramatic
Pass. From the pass, an indistinct trail leads icefalls and snowy peaks provide superb camp
down to the first settlements, eventually cross- sites on both sides of the pass. The trek can be
ing a footbridge downstream from Naharjao done in either direction, depending on whether
(2225m). The trail crosses the stream several you’re coming from Gilgit or Chitral.
times over footbridges and soon reaches the
road along the Rumbur Gol. Walk on the road Planning
for 3.5km, or one hour, to Balanguru. The US AMS 1:250,000 map NJ 43-13 Mastuj
covers the trek. Yasin porters ask for Rs 400
THUI AN per stage for 5½ stages, whereas Yarkhun por-
ters ask for Rs 400 per day.

TREK FACTS Getting To/From the Trek

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
Duration five days Public transport Gilgit–Nialthi (Rs 160, five
Distance 51km to six hours) departs from Abbas Market on
Standard moderate Punial Rd, and Yasin–Nialthi vehicles (Rs 40,

PAKISTAN
Season mid-June–September two hours) depart from Center Yasin. Vehicles
Start Nialthi go as far as the bridge across the Thui Gol in
Finish Sholkuch Nialthi. A shady riverside camping ground run
Public Transport yes by Subedar Sher Rajab is before the bridge.
Summary An outstanding traverse through Passenger vehicles Sholkuch–Mastuj
the heart of the Hindu Raj Range links Yasin (Rs 120, three hours) depart early morning.
and Chitral and crosses a stunning pass sur-
rounded by tumbling glaciers and jagged The Trek
6000m peaks. The long but gentle trail on Day 1 (five to 5½
hours, 15.5km) takes you up the beautiful

THUI AN 0
0
8 km
4 miles
Barum Bar
Ke r

To Lasht Thui Glacier

NORTH-WEST DAY 3
Glacier
un

(18km) FRONTIER Gashuchi

PROVINCE (4020m)
B a r Gl a ci e r
er
Ri v

DAY 4
Go

Alian Lasht Haghost Bar

Golpigol Thui An Glacier Shotaling
sh

(3210m) (4052m)
Shunup
la

(4528m)
Go

Gazin Gol Ramanch

zin G l ac
FINISH Gazin Ga ie DAY 2
Sholkuch r
DAY 5 Bundiwalum
(2698m) Nichagh (3165m)
n Zhupu
hu (3010m) Menyar
rk
Ya Ghalsapar Langari Balegarch
Glacier

To Mastuj Lasht
(40km)

Mushk Bar Glacier Mushk

NORTHERN AREAS
Das
Thui
Go
Not for Navigation START l
use listed maps Nialthi
(2785m) To Taus
(20km)
 346 G I L G I T & D I A M I R • • D i r a n B a s e C a m p lonelyplanet.com

granite-walled Thui Valley with its springs,

meadowy turf and tumbling waterfalls. At GILGIT & DIAMIR
Lasht, cross a footbridge to the Thui Gol’s true
Nanga Parbat (8125m), known locally as
right bank and continue upvalley through the
Diamir, is the world’s ninth-highest peak
settlements of Langari and Menyar. Camp at
and the second highest of Pakistan’s five
Bundiwalum (3165m), a large flat area shaded
8000m peaks. The 20km-long series of
by birch opposite the confluence of the Kerun
peaks and ridges that forms the huge Nanga
Bar. (The formerly used route along the Thui
Parbat massif marks the western end of the
Gol’s true left bank via Shotaling has been
Great Himalayan Range. To the north across
abandoned due to glacial changes.)
the Indus River rise the summits of the
Day 2 (four to five hours, 7.5km) is the
Karakoram Range, including Diran (7257m)
most challenging day of the trek, and you need
and Rakaposhi (7788m). This section fea-
to have someone show you the route onto and
tures treks to two spectacular base camps,
across the Haghost Bar Glacier. Near the end
including the easiest trek to any 8000m base
of your glacier traverse, you see ahead the wel-
camp in the world.
coming hillside oasis of Gashuchi (4020m). Step
off the glacier and contour through profuse
wild onions, willows and wildflowers, cross- DIRAN BASE CAMP
ing several clear streams in this improbably
verdant spot. TREK FACTS
On Day 3 (three to four hours, 6.5km),
head northwest 1.5km across the hillside. Duration three days
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

Then turn southwest to start a steady 2.5km Distance 26km

traverse up an imposing scree slope that Standard moderate
brings you above a snowy bowl on your left Season mid-June–September
PAKISTAN

(south) before reaching Thui An. Descend west Start/Finish Chirah

1km on a scree slope to a small snowfield Public Transport yes
at the base of the pass, then turn south and Summary An easily accessible trek goes to a
follow the true left side of the Thui Glacier’s glacial amphitheatre with incredible icefalls
outflow stream 1.5km to the scenic, grassy beneath two 7000m peaks.
camp site of Golpigol (4052m) along the Gazin
Glacier’s margin.
Half a kilometre after leaving Golpigol on Rising directly above Hinarche Harai, the
Day 4 (four to five hours, 14km), the Thui local name for Diran Base Camp, the sheer
Glacier’s outflow stream plunges directly east (and unclimbed) face of Rakaposhi
beneath the Gazin Glacier, necessitating a and Diran’s south face are connected by a
30-minute detour onto the Gazin Glacier 16km-long icy ridge. The Bagrot and Upper
to bypass this obstacle. The route exits the Hinarche Glaciers roll down the flanks of
glacier and descends on trails for 9.5km the peaks. Even for the Karakoram, this is
through a series of gentle, level ablation val- unique scenery with an icefall and glacier
leys to the Golash Gol, where you find a few tumbling 5000m from the summits. In this
shepherds’ huts. Continue through pleasant tight bowl, Rakaposhi’s steep icefall sends
stands of birch, willow and occasional juni- near-constant thundering avalanches.
per to ford the Golash Gol (3007m). A short drive from Gilgit and a two-day
At the far end of this broad alluvial fan walk up the Hinarche Glacier from the head
are a few houses and the fields of Alian Lasht of the Bagrot Valley takes you to base camp.
(3210m). The trail continues past Shunup, While this is a moderate trek, it isn’t recom-
then crosses a footbridge to the Gazin Gol’s mended as anyone’s first Karakoram trek.
true left bank and Nichagh (3010m), where Most novices would find the terrain too
trekkers can camp on a grassy and shaded challenging. More than 35% of the trek in-
village field maintained by Sardar Khan. volves nontechnical glacier travel. No moun-
Day 5 (two to 2½ hours, 7km) lasts barely taineering equipment is necessary nor are
long enough for you to warm up as you there substantial crevasses, but the loose and
walk down to the Yarkhun Valley and the rocky surface is tedious to manoeuvre and
valley’s road at Sholkuch (2698m). requires some route-finding skills.
lonelyplanet.com G I L G I T & D I A M I R • • D i r a n B a s e C a m p 347

its eastern margin and then exit the glacier

DIRAN BASE CAMP about 1km from the footbridge where you
0 6 km
0 4 miles see an obvious notch along the lateral mo-
Not for Navigation raine. Ascend steeply through a shaded chir
Rakaposhi East DAY 3 use listed maps pine forest for 30 minutes to where you’ll see
(7010m)
Rakaposhi Hinarche Harai
(7788m) Ba g
(3500m) the tightly clustered houses at Shelakui. The
rot
Gl a c i e
r Upper H Diran cultivated fields of Diran village are visible
ina (7257m)
Yurbun
rch
eG on the hillside above.
er

l
Continue upvalley for 15 minutes along
l ac i

the true right bank of the silty Diran stream,

Hi na rche G

which is the last reliable water source before

DAY 2
base camp. It’s possible to pitch a tent here
Biyabari (2900m) along the tree-lined stream, but a preferable
Sat
Dar Burche Glac
camping area is 10 minutes further at Biyabari
Bagrot River Bulche Chirah i
(2700m) Gargoh er (2900m), a grassy area nestled between rocky
(Bagrot Gah) (3500m)
START
Datuchi FINISH
hillsides to the east and juniper-dotted mo-
To Oshikandas
Agurtsab Dar
(3950m)
raine to the west. Although water is a few
Dainyor
(12km)
Hopey
Rakhan Gali
(4548m)
minutes’ walk away, this pleasant area is shel-
(4358m) tered from wind.
Several landslides along the Hinarche
The 13km trek from Chirah to Diran Glacier’s east margin make Day 2 (five to six
Base Camp is very rugged and gains 800m. hours, 8km) a tedious day. Walk through

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
Unless you are previously acclimatised, most mature forest for 15 minutes to the head of
trekkers are advised to split the distance into the ablation valley and the first views of the
two days. It’s possible to wander one to two Hinarche Glacier’s mangled seracs. The trail

PAKISTAN
hours above base camp for enhanced views ascends steeply, following the moraine ridge
of the icefalls descending from Diran on the high above the glacier’s east margin for 30
basin’s east side. minutes more. Where the moraine ridge
and forest end, the trail starts to deteriorate
Planning until it disappears altogether. It will take you
The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research one hour to get through this difficult sec-
1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 1) covers tion and move away from the moraine onto
the trek. Porters ask for a flat rate of Rs 350 the glacier.
per stage. The trek totals four stages round The route from this unnamed point stays
trip. Hiring someone to show the route on on the glacier for 4km, taking between 2½
the glacier is helpful. and three hours to reach base camp. The in-
distinct route stays in a direct line up the
Getting To/From the Trek middle of the glacier because both margins
For Chirah accommodation and transport are heavily crevassed with mazes of seracs.
information, see p271. The views become more expansive the further
up the glacier you go with the ‘T’ confluence
The Trek of the Bagrot and Hinarche Glaciers coming
From Chirah (2700m), on Day 1 (two hours, into view about halfway. Diran Base Camp
5km) walk east on the dwindling road along is on the north side of the ‘T’ high above
the Bagrot River’s true left bank for 20 min- the glacier. The confluence resembles a big
utes to a junction. Stay to the left follow- mud sinkhole, so stay to the right of the mud
ing the level path near the river to reach when exiting.
a footbridge. When the river level is high, Once off the glacier, a dirt track leads
you follow a higher, alternative path to steeply up a crumbling cliff for 15 minutes
the footbridge. to the shepherds’ settlement of Hinarche Harai
Cross the footbridge to the true right (3500m). The grassy camping area is east of
(north) bank of the Burche Glacier’s outwash the clustered huts adjacent to a spring near a
stream and step onto the Hinarche Glacier’s willow-covered slope.
terminal moraine. Follow an indistinct trail Retrace your steps to Chirah (seven to eight
for 30 minutes across the glacier towards hours, 13km) on Day 3.
 348 G I L G I T & D I A M I R • • Fa i r y M e a d o w Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

FAIRY MEADOW FAIRY MEADOW 0

0
4 km
2 miles

To Chilas (50km);
Gilgit (80km) Not for Navigation
TREK FACTS Tato use listed maps

ge
Fairy

Rid
Duration three days Bezar Gali Point (2666m)
(4062m)
Distance 21km START/FINISH

Bu l d a r
r
Standard easy ipu
Jal ah

ur
G DAY 2

h
l ip
Season May–November

ot Ga

Rid
Fairy

Ja
Meadow
Start/Finish Fairy Point

ge
(3306m)

Raik
Public Transport no Susuru Bush
(4000m)
Summary Fairy Meadow offers easy access
DAY 3
to an 8000m-peak base camp with one of North

Ra i k o t
Beyal
Jalipur
Peak (5215m) (3500m)
the western Himalaya’s finest mountain ur SIDE TRIP
Buldar Peak
ip (5602m)
panoramas. al eam
Khusto (Jalipur) J Str View Point
Buldar Cleft
Pass (4837m) (3667m)
(5150m)
ac

G
l
ie
r
The lofty summits of the Nanga Parbat massif r Drexel
Nanga Parbat Base Camp

ie
South Monument

l ac
(3967m)
form an impressive glacial amphitheatre at the Jalipur Peak

Gana l o G
Pa (5206m) Great Moraine
tr (4500m)
head of the Raikot Gah. Four major icefalls o G
l ac Middle Chongra
i er Camp 1 (6455m)
converge beneath Nanga Parbat’s north (or (4468m)
South Chongra
Raikot) face to form the 13km-long, ‘S’-shaped Ganalo Peak
(6606m)
(6448m)
Raikot Glacier. The river pouring from the
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

glacier plummets 2000m to the Indus River, Raikot

(7070m)
and the 7000m sweep from Nanga Parbat’s r Silberzacken
(7597m)
i

m
r

summit to the Indus forms one of the world’s D i a cie

PAKISTAN

Nanga Parbat
Gla (8125m)
deepest gorges. o
zen
Alongside the glacier there are pine and Ma ak s Bazhin
Pe Glacier
fir forests, sparkling streams, and grasslands
that have enchanted visitors and prompted
the name of Fairy Meadow. A trip to Fairy lasting about two hours. This affords you
Meadow, with day walks or side trips, has a plenty of time to enjoy day walks, relax
bit of everything that Himalayan trekking can at camp, and also to stroll around nearby
offer: a hair-raising ride to get there, hot and shepherds’ settlements.
dusty trails, lush meadows and forests, amaz-
ing glaciers, and an 8000m summit. Nowhere Planning
else on earth can you drive for less than three The DAV 1:50,000 map Nanga Parbat – Gruppe
hours directly to one of the 10 highest peaks covers the trek. Porters ask for a flat rate of
on the planet. This spectacular, short trek Rs 325 per stage. Porters charge two stages
right to the base camp of an 8000m peak between Raikot Bridge and Fairy Meadow
is the easiest trek to any major Himalayan whether you walk or ride in a vehicle to Fairy
base camp. Point (previously called Jhel). Horses are avail-
Raikot Bridge, which spans the Indus River able to Fairy Meadow for Rs 1000/1200 (one
along the KKH a short distance south of Gilgit way/round trip) per stage. The trek totals six
and east of Chilas, is the jumping-off point for stages round trip.
the trek. A legendary 4WD road leaves the
KKH here and ascends 1320m to the trailhead. Sleeping & Eating
The ride can be so scary that some trekkers Fairy Meadow and Beyal offer accommoda-
prefer to walk rather than sit in a 4WD as it tion and food in welcoming settings. Each
inches its way along a dramatic cliff face with hotel has a fenced compound (to keep live-
heart-stopping drop-offs. stock out) with rustic two-bed wooden huts, a
Once you get to the trailhead, you can dining hall serving hot meals, grassy camping
take a deep breath and enjoy cold drinks grounds where you can hire a tent (with a
and snacks from shops located there be- sleeping bag and pad) or pitch your own for
fore setting off. The gentle, well-established a fee, and toilets. A few shops sell basic food
trail lends itself to short trekking days, each and supplies.
lonelyplanet.com N A G Y R & H U N Z A 349

FAIRY MEADOW Raikot. The road between Raikot Bridge

Raikot Sarai (%05811-54310; www.raikotsarainanga and Fairy Point is privately owned and
parbat.com; camping fee Rs 100, tent hire s/d Rs 400/500, maintained by the community, and ‘outside’
Mughal tent Rs 1000, hut Rs 1500) With an idyl- drivers aren’t allowed.
lic grassy expanse overlooking the Raikot
Glacier and unimpeded views of Nanga
Parbat, this is Fairy Meadow’s original and The Trek
most well-run establishment. It’s a steady ascent on Day 1 (two to 2½
Fairy Meadows Cottage (%0300-5053507; www.fairy hours, 5.5km) from Fairy Point (2666m) to
meadowscottage.com; camping fee Rs 100, tent hire Rs 500, Fairy Meadow (3306m). Wild roses, chilghoza,
hut s/d Rs 850/1200) Secluded in a large meadow chir pine and juniper flourish in this nar-
along a stream surrounded by forest, this row valley, providing welcome shade.
place has excellent mountain views but no Midway Hotel, a little more than half-way
glacier view. and little more than a picnic table, sells
Green Land Camping Side (camping fee Rs 100, tent cold drinks.
hire Rs 300, hut Rs 600) Located in a dense forested Fairy Meadow is so beautiful with its
setting. Offers shade, but no views. views of Nanga Parbat and the Raikot Glacier
Tucked behind Raikot Sarai on a forested that it’s easy to stay, but it’s worthwhile to
ridge with good glacier and mountain views move upvalley. On Day 2 (1½ hours, 5km),
is Broad View Hotel, which operates sporadi- stroll through lush chir pine and fir for-
cally, and further behind is Fairy Meadow Heights est along streams to the meadow at Beyal
(tent hire s/d Rs 300/400, hut s/d Rs 550/800). (3500m). The walk offers equally superb

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
views downvalley of the Indus Valley and the
BEYAL 7000m peaks of the Rakaposhi-Haramosh
As you walk into Beyal, the hotels are spread Range.

PAKISTAN
out from north to south along a stream. An easy trail continues 30 minutes beyond
Messner Lodge Hote (camping fee Rs 100, tent hire s/d Beyal through scattered juniper and birch to
Rs 350/450, hut s/d Rs 500/700) is nearest the shep- an obvious boulder at the lateral moraine’s
herds’ huts with a lumpy camping area. Raees edge, aptly called View Point (3667m). The
Darbar Hotle & Beal Camp (camping fee Rs 50, tent hire breathtaking close-up views to the southeast
Rs 500, hut s/d Rs 800/1000) is the only property with- include the four major icefalls coming from
out fencing and has the cheapest camping fee. the Chongra peaks (ranging from 6448m to
Jilper Inn Bayal Camp (camping fee Rs 120, tent hire s/d 6830m), Raikot (7070m), and Nanga Parbat’s
Rs 400/500, hut s/d Rs 900/1200) is the largest and north face that converge to form the incred-
most well-established area in Beyal with a few ibly serac-covered Raikot Glacier. If you only
trees for shade and the flattest camping area. go this far, you won’t be disappointed. Fit
Parbat Saria is occasionally open. day-walkers can continue on to Nanga Parbat
Base Camp (3967m) between the Ganalo and
Getting To/From the Trek Raikot Glaciers, a four- to five-hour side trip
Take any Gilgit–Chilas vehicle (see p267) from Beyal.
or any Gilgit–Rawalpindi bus (see p279) Retrace your steps to Fairy Point on Day
and get off at Raikot Bridge (1280m), by 3 (two to 2½ hours, 10.5km). It’s an 834m
KKH mile marker 471, 78km or 1½ hours descent, so go easy on your knees!
south of Gilgit and 55km or one hour east
of Chilas. Special hires Gilgit–Raikot Bridge
cost Rs 2000.
From Raikot Bridge, walk or organ-
NAGYR & HUNZA
ise a fixed-rate special hire to Fairy Point Above the carefully tended fields of Nagyr
(Rs 1500 one way, one hour, 15km) where and Hunza soar Rakaposhi (7788m), Diran
the road ends. A local union assigns drivers (7257m), Ultar (7388m) and Spantik
on a rotational basis. If you choose to walk, (7027m) in what the renowned mountaineer
the tiresome and hot 1386m climb to Fairy Eric Shipton called ‘the ultimate manifesta-
Point (2666m) takes four hours. tion of mountain grandeur’. Many travellers
Don’t organise special hires Gilgit–Fairy admire these snowcapped peaks from the
Point (Rs 3000) unless the driver is from KKH, but few venture beyond the highway
 350 N A G Y R & H U N Z A • • Pa k o r a Pa s s lonelyplanet.com

to get a closer look at these impressive gi- When Gilgit is baking in midsummer heat,
ants. Some trails wend their way through the nearby Naltar Mountains offer a refresh-
the occasional forest, while other trails ing respite and quick access to great trekking.
snake their way alongside dramatic glaciers Blessed with an abundance of rainfall, unique
and icefalls. Within a few days, you can in the arid Karakoram, the richly forested
visit a mountaineer’s base camp, reach a Naltar Valley yields in its upper reaches to
viewpoint with aerial-like vistas overlook- alpine meadows carpeted with wildflowers.
ing the Hunza Valley, or even traverse a Dozens of impressive 5000m summits, though
mountain range. not high by Karakoram standards, attract
climbers from around the world.
A classic trek crosses the Pakora Pass
PAKORA PASS (4710m) between Naltar Valley and Pakora
village in the scenic Ishkoman Valley. Seasonal
TREK FACTS snowfields can lie east of the pass, and there’s a
Duration five days short glacier crossing on its west side. Crossing
Distance 47km these obstacles adds excitement and a bit of
Standard moderate challenge to the trek, yet no mountaineering
Season mid-June–September equipment or prior experience is necessary.
Start Upper Naltar The gentle and grandly scenic 1900m as-
Finish Pakora cent to the pass is split over 3½ days with
Public Transport yes fewer than four hours of trekking per day
Summary Alpine meadows, a glacier, a to facilitate acclimatisation. This affords
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

not-too-high pass, incredible scenery and ample time to relax and visit with shepherds.
easy access from Gilgit put this adventurous The steeper 2500m descent down the arid
route high on every trekker’s list. Pakora Gol in the rainshadow of the Naltar
PAKISTAN

Mountains takes 1½ days.

PAKORA PASS 0
0
8 km
4 miles

Not for Navigation

use listed maps

Kuru An
(4700m)

FINISH Kuru An Gol DAY 5

l Kuru
Pako r a Go Jut/Uts
Pakora/ (3390m)
Phakor Roghshal
(2220m) Gujarshal Baj Gaz Bar
Pass
R iver

Ba r Nala

Lal Patthar
(3690m) DAY 4 Taling Daintar
Chatorkhand Sentinel To
Pakora leba ri (2743m) Talamutz
an

(5260m)
High
Hayal Pass Nala Da Pass
kom

Camp Daintar intar

(4230m) Pass Tolebari Na l a
Pakora Pass (3450m)
Ish

(4710m) (4500m) Torbuto Das

Pakora Upper hani Gla Daintar High (2100m)
Shani cie
S

Glacier r Camp (4100m)

(3797m)
(North 5798m) Lower Shani Snow Dome
Twin Peaks (3690m) Chaprot (5029m)
(South 5700m) DAY 3 Pass
To Gakuch Shani Ch Cha
Na

(15km) Lath a p rot prot

Peak Vall
l
ta

(5887m) ey
Na

Mehrbani la
r

Gupa
(5639m) Chalt
M

un
o

ta Shing
in
s Naltar Lake To
(3270m) Aliabad
R ive r

DAY 2 (40km)
Bangla Beshgiri
She
KK nz a
Na

r l ta
Khaltar Peak r Na
G
H
Hu

(5591m) lta
Ga

h rV
a
h

(R
ive al
r) ley
Upper Naltar/Jagot
h (2820m)
Ga
har START
ch
Bi
Lower Naltar To To
Nomal Gilgit
(10km) (38km)
lonelyplanet.com N A G Y R & H U N Z A • • R a k a p o s h i B a s e C a m p 351

Planning RAKAPOSHI BASE CAMP

The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research
1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 1) covers
the trek. Porters ask for a flat rate of Rs 500 TREK FACTS
per stage. The trek totals six stages. Duration three days
Distance 18km
Getting To/From the Trek Standard easy
For Upper Naltar accommodation and trans- Season June–September
port information, see p281. A special hire may Start/Finish Minapin
enable you to drive beyond Upper Naltar to Public Transport yes
Beshgiri, about halfway to the lake. Summary An ideal introduction to Kara-
Pakora–Gilgit vehicles (Rs 90, three hours) koram trekking takes you to the base camp
depart early in the morning. of Nagyr’s highest peak, Rakaposhi.

The Trek
Starting from Upper Naltar (2820m) on Day The well-established, easy-to-follow trail
1 (three to 3½ hours, 11.2km), follow a track to Rakaposhi Base Camp, known locally
along the Naltar Gah through wonderfully as Tagaphari, starts at Minapin village,
lush forest of cedar, pine and birch passing which is easily accessible from the KKH.
shepherds’ huts. The track ends at exqui- This short trek has truly spectacular scen-
sitely clear Naltar Lake (3270m). On Day 2 ery. The Minapin Glacier tumbles dramati-
(3½ hours, 9.5km) a trail takes you past pic- cally from the 16km-long fluted snowy

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
turesque shepherds’ settlements and up the ridge connecting Rakaposhi and Diran.
verdant valley to the flower-filled meadows of Hachindar and Maiun, along with count-
Lower Shani (3690m) beneath formidable Shani less nameless peaks, sweep across the sky-

PAKISTAN
Peak (5887m). On Day 3 (two to three hours, line north of the Hunza River. The snowy
4.4km), rhubarb and juniper cover the hillside
as you ascend to the meadows of Upper Shani
(3797m) in the shelter of the Shani Glacier’s RAKAPOSHI BASE CAMP
0 4 km
0 2 miles
lateral moraine. A steep, grassy, flower-car-
To Aliabad
peted slope leads you to streamside Pakora High r
(15km) Not for Navigation
Rive KKH use listed maps
Camp (4230m). Hunza START/FINISH
Pisan
The way up and over the pass on Day 4 (six Minapin
Min a

(2012m)
to eight hours, 12.1km) ascends a steep, rocky To Gilgit
(88km)
Miachar
pin

trail along a stream. Stone cairns mark the route v er

i R

across several seasonal snowfields to Pakora Pass,

north of which is the aptly named alpine sum-
mit Sentinel (5260m). The west side of the pass
is glaciated, but typically remains snow-covered Bang-i-das
Glaicer

until autumn, when crevasses appear. Quickly DAY 2

Hapakun
cross these snowfields and move onto rocky (2804m)
ng

moraine where a trail leads down to a cross-

u
mer

ing of the icy Pakora Glacier. Once across the

tu

Kacheli Lake
an

Gu

(3950m)
glacier, the trail goes downvalley to Lal Patthar Tagaphari
(3261m)
(3690m), named for the huge reddish boulder DAY 3
amid a few junipers. Continue downvalley Diran Base
through beautiful dense forest of birch, pine Camp (3650m)

and juniper to a footbridge (3750m) across SIDE TRIP

Pakora Gol that leads to a forested plateau and

M
the shepherds’ huts at Jut/Uts (3390m). i n
a
p
The descent on Day 5 (3½ to five hours, i
n
9.7km) grows progressively steeper as the can- G
l
yon narrows. A wide trail continues down the a
starkly beautiful Pakora Gol, high above the Rakaposhi East
raging river, and to Pakora (2220m). (7010m)
 352 N A G Y R & H U N Z A • • R u s h P h a r i lonelyplanet.com

summits of Rakaposhi and Diran, hidden RUSH PHARI

from view at first, grow more impressive
with every footstep. Tackling the 1250m
ascent to Tagaphari is made easier by split- TREK FACTS
ting it into two four-hour days. Duration five days
Distance 36km
Planning Standard moderate
The DAV 1:50,000 map Minapin (Rakaposhi Season mid-June–September
Range) covers the trek. Porters ask for a flat Start/Finish Hoper
rate of Rs 400 per stage. The trek totals four Public Transport yes
stages round trip. Summary Incredible views of distant K2,
You can buy food and rent gear (tent Baintha Brak, the Hispar La and close-ups
Rs 300, sleeping bag Rs 100, sleeping pad Rs 30) of the Hispar Muztagh’s giants make this a
from camping grounds (camping fee Rs 150) at truly unforgettable trek.
Hapakun and Tagaphari.

Getting To/From the Trek The sparkling turquoise lake called Rush
For Minapin accommodation and transport Phari (4694m) sits high on a ridge between
information, see p298. Diran Hotel is the Upper Nagyr’s Hispar Valley and the Barpu
trek’s staging place. Glacier. The lake is a glorious destination
in its own right, but the side trip to the
The Trek
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

top of Rush Peak (5098m) is unforgettable.

The trail from Minapin ascends almost 800m Nowhere else in the Karakoram can you get
on Day 1 (three to four hours, 5.8km), first such magnificent mountain panoramas on
along the Minapin River’s rushing torrent such a short trek. In a 360-degree sweep, you
PAKISTAN

and then through a juniper forest. It emerges can see almost all the giant peaks of Hunza,
at Bang-i-das where a stream tumbles over a the 7500m peaks of the Hispar Muztagh and
cascade at the head of this pleasant valley, the 8000m giants of the Baltoro Muztagh,
before the final push to the grassy meadows at including K2 (8611m).
Hapakun (2804m), bordered by stands of firs. The two-day 1500m ascent to the lake is
On Day 2 (two to three hours, 3km), the strenuous and gains elevation rapidly, so do
trail crosses a verdant bowl where colourful this trek only when you’re previously accli-
songbirds thrive. Sweeping gently through matised (for more information on acclimati-
the meadow, the trail enters scattered juniper sation, see p400). You also make four short,
stands and emerges on a windy ridge top, nontechnical glacier crossings – twice each
where Diran and the summit ridge pop into
view. Cows and oxen graze on the nearby
pasture of Tagaphari (3261m), and grassy camp RUSH PHARI 0
0
4 km
2 miles
To Nagyr (2km);
sites line the meandering stream. The lateral Aliabad (15km)

moraine above the valley is a fun place to His

par
Ta g a p ha
watch avalanches crashing down from the START/
FINISH
ri Riv
er
ridge between Rakaposhi and Diran, and to Hoper
(2790m) Shishkin
Barpugram
savour sunset on Diran. Rakaposhi itself is DAY 3
Ba

Mulharai
Hapakun Chidin Harai
rp

mostly hidden from view behind the snow DAY 2 Gutens (4440m)
u

(3250m)
Bericho Kor
cier

Gl

DAY 4
dome of Rakaposhi East (7010m).
aci

Shaltar Hamdar (3300m)

Gla

Rush Phari Rush

er

(4694m) Peak
A strenuous eight-hour side trip goes to
r

(5098m)
alta

Diran Base Camp (3650m), known locally as

Bu

Dachigan SIDE TRIP

Kacheli. The base camp with its birch-dotted DAY 5
pastures is on the opposite side of the im- Phahi Phari
(3450m)
posing Minapin Glacier. The unmarked and Miar
Chukutans
Sumayar Bar
Su

changeable route across the glacier is diffi-

Miar Glacier

(3500m)
ma
yar Bar

cult to follow, so take someone who knows

the way. Girgindil
Not for Navigation (4000m)
Retrace your steps to Minapin on Day 3
Glacier

use listed maps

(three to 3½ hours, 8.8km).
lonelyplanet.com N A G Y R & H U N Z A • • U l t a r 353

across the Bualtar and Barpu Glaciers – with (7343m), Trivor (7728m), Mulungutti Sar
trekking days averaging five hours. (7025m) and mighty Destaghil Sar (7885m).
The final push upwards to Rush Phari on the
Planning morning of Day 3 (1½ hours, 2.1km) is an
The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research easy stroll compared with the ascent to Chidin
1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 1) covers Harai. From the sheltered camp sites along
the trek. Hiring a trekking company may help the southwest lakeshore, enjoy the four-hour
with route-finding and managing porters, side trip to Rush Peak. You make a trail-less but
who ask for a flat rate of Rs 400 per stage plus obvious ascent of a flower-covered slope to a
Rs 400 clothing and equipment allowance. hill top (4938m), where you catch your first
The trek totals eight stages round trip. glimpse of K2. A straightforward scramble
up talus takes you to the rocky summit of
Getting To/From the Trek Rush Peak. K2 is dramatically larger, Broad
For Hoper accommodation and transport Peak (8047m) and Gasherbrum IV (7925m)
information, see p307. are visible, and Baintha Brak (7285m) looms
above the Hispar La.
The Trek On Day 4 (two to three hours, 4.4km), a
Day 1 (four to five hours, 10.8km) starts at the steep 1244m descent on a somewhat faint
road’s end in Hoper (2790m), at the edge of trail takes you directly to Phahi Phari (3450m)
the Bualtar Glacier. You’ll want to hire someone along the Barpu Glacier’s edge. The aerial-
to assist you in crossing the Bualtar Glacier. like views of the Sumayar Bar Glacier, Miar
The route across the broken ice changes daily, Glacier, Malubiting and Phuparash are awe-

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
and though it’s a relatively short distance, it some. Return to Hoper on Day 5 (five to six
can take anywhere from 30 minutes to three hours, 14.9km) along the easy trail in the ab-
hours to reach the other side. lation valley and back across the Barpu and

PAKISTAN
A trail on the Bualtar Glacier’s opposite Bualtar Glaciers.
side leads to the Barpu Glacier. The 33km-long
Barpu Glacier draws its ice from the Sumayar ULTAR
Bar and Miar Glaciers that flow from the
snowy summits of Malubiting (7458m), Miar
(6824m) and Phuparash (6574m). The sheer TREK FACTS
granite peak soaring in the distance above Duration two days
the Sumayar Bar Glacier is called Ganesh Distance 6.2km
Chhish (Golden Peak) by the Burusho of Standard easy
Nagyr and Hunza, but is more well known Season May–October
by its Balti name Spantik (7027m). It takes Start/Finish Baltit
less than an hour to cross the stable rock- Public Transport yes
and-rubble trail over the Barpu Glacier and Summary A steep but short walk leads to a
reach the relatively level ablation valley on stunning glacial amphitheatre beneath the
the other side. snowy summit of Ultar.
Strolling along the Barpu Glacier’s margin
you pass the pasture settlements of Tagaphari,
Barpugram and Mulharai where clusters of On the lofty summit of Ultar (7388m), tower-
juniper, tamarisk and wild roses offer relief ing dramatically above Hunza, a fairy queen
(and shade) amid the rocky terrain. Stop at the once lived in a crystal palace. And from this
grassy camp site of Bericho Kor (3300m). legendary mountain flows Hunza’s life-
Day 2 (4½ to 5½ hours, 4.1km) is a steep, giving irrigation water. Baltit fort guards the
steady 1140m ascent up artemisia-dotted entrance to the steep, narrow canyon called
slopes to the grassy ridge top called Chidin Harai Ultar Nala, which opens in its upper reaches
(4440m). This camp site enjoys late-afternoon into a meadow surrounded by a cascade of
sunshine. Sunset and sunrise are even more glaciers and granite.
pleasurable as you watch the orange and pink The walk to the meadow and back can be
light wash across the Hispar Muztagh to the done as a day walk, but spending a night is an
northeast. This phenomenal wall of peaks unforgettable experience. On moonlit nights,
includes Lupgar Sar (7200m), Momhil Sar Ultar is sublime. Frequent avalanches off the
 354 N A G Y R & H U N Z A • • U l t a r lonelyplanet.com

Monument, to reach a spectacular viewpoint

ULTAR 0
0
3 km
2 miles
and the Dilbar canal.
Boyohagur-Duanasir
(7329m)
Head right, walking carefully along the
reasonably wide but exposed path along the
Hunza Peak
(6270m)
Ultar
(7388m)
canal and into Ultar Nala. In 30 minutes,
reach the junction with the now-abandoned
Bubulimating
(6000m) trail in Ultar Nala, destroyed by rockfall in
2006. Just past the canal headworks, climb
ier
l ac

Hon Pass
(4257m) (left) onto the rocky moraine towards the base
Ul t a r G

of the cliff and away from the river.

SIDE TRIP
Altit Peak
Cairns mark the way over moraine rubble,
Ultar Meadow
(3270m)
Quru Phari
(5075m) staying high above the river and rising to the
DAY 2
Queen Victoria (3000m)
Not for Navigation
base of cliffs. A 15cm black plastic water pipe
Monument
use listed maps lies along the trail for the 30-minute walk
from the Dilbar canal to Quru Phari (3000m),
r Na l a

START/FINISH Baltit
Karimabad Altit
Duikar a grassy area with a covered spring.
U l ta

Hunz Continue up a more gradual trail in

a River
To
Gilgit
See Karimabad
(Baltit) Map (p299)
KKH this verdant valley to its end, just past the
(100km) To Gojal headworks for the black plastic water pipe.
Beyond the ablation valley, ascend steeply for
icefall punctuate the stillness and echo off the 15 minutes across a large landslide. Cairns
surrounding peaks and cliffs. Karimabad has on boulders above mark the way to Ultar
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

only one trek and luckily for eager trekkers Meadow (3270m).
who find themselves here, it’s one of the A rock wall keeps the occasional livestock
region’s most outstanding overnight treks. out of the Lady Finger Camping Site (camping fee
PAKISTAN

Rs 100, tent hire with blankets not sleeping bags Rs 150;

Planning hclosed Oct-Mar). Sod tables and chairs invite
The DAV 1:100,000 map Hunza-Karakorum you to relax and refresh with a cold drink,
depicts the area. Guides ask for Rs 500 per day, snack or a hot meal. Alternatively, you can
and are extremely helpful. Ask for a reliable camp outside the wall for free. Stay off the
guide at your hotel or trekking company. dangerously crevassed Ultar Glacier.
A popular side trip (six hours – four up
Getting To/From the Trek and two down) to Hon Pass (4257m) is steep –
For Karimabad (Baltit) accommodation and it’s 1000m up and 1000m down – and stren-
transport information, see p302 and p305. uous, but well worth the effort. Hon Pass
has aerial-like views of the Hunza Valley
The Trek and the west end of the Hispar, Spantik-
Day 1 (2½ to three hours, 3.1km) covers Sosbun and Rakaposhi-Haramosh Ranges.
a short distance to Ultar Meadow, but the The summits of Trivor, Spantik, Malubiting,
steep 770m ascent takes almost an hour Phuparash, Diran and Rakaposhi tower
per kilometre. above the equally impressive Barpu, Minapin
Start by walking through Baltit up towards and Pisan Glaciers. Hon Pass is the obvi-
the fort, under the house spanning the stone ous grassy notch on the ridge southwest of
path, to the signed junction (2500m) before the meadow. There’s no single established
the fort. Turn left at the junction following trail except for the final few minutes, but
the arrow to Diramishal. Go up stone steps it’s not hard to find the way. The unceas-
and in one minute, turn right past the house ing ascent yields an increasingly spec-
next to the house with a hanging sign in front tacular perspective on Ultar and its icefall.
that reads ‘Hunza Fabrics Enterprise’. The Nobody crosses Hon Pass, so after savour-
narrow footpaths through Diramishal are ing the views, retrace your steps. (Trekkers
confusing, and it’s easy to get lost. It takes 15 in really top shape can do the entire trip
minutes to wind up through the tightly clus- as a day walk from Baltit in eight hours
tered houses. Continue ascending another 30 round trip.)
minutes through fields and orchards towards Return to Baltit on Day 2 (1½ to two hours,
a rock face, topped by the Queen Victoria 3.1km).
lonelyplanet.com G O J A L • • Av d e g a r 355

GOJAL Planning
No maps exist that cover this trek, but the
Gojal lies in the heart of the Karakoram Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research
where glaciers course right to the KKH’s 1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 1) shows
edge. Outside Baltistan, Gojal is the the general area. Porters ask for a flat rate of
Karakoram’s most extensively glaciated re- Rs 370 per stage. The trek totals four stages
gion with eight of its 25 biggest glaciers. round trip.
Most treks in Gojal go to alpine pastures
along these glaciers. Gojal boasts Destaghil Getting To/From the Trek
Sar (7885m), the highest peak in the For Passu accommodation and transport
Karakoram west of K2, scores of 7000m information, see p310.
peaks, and vast stretches of territory ripe
for trekking. It’s some of the Karakoram’s The Trek
most dramatic scenery, and certainly its Starting from Passu (2400m) on Day 1 (five
most accessible. to seven hours, 6.7km), walk south on the
KKH, passing the Shisper View Hotel, to the
first hairpin bend (which comes up before
AVDEGAR KKH mile marker 681). Walk 50m further
(south of) past the ‘Yashfandan Waterpipe
TREK FACTS Project’ sign to an opening between two
guardrails.
Duration two days Follow the trail that descends east from the

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
Distance 13.4km KKH here, skirting the stone walls around
Standard moderate Yashbandan’s fields, and continue up the
Season May–October other side of this valley. The well-used trail

PAKISTAN
Start/Finish Passu dips through rocky gullies as it heads south
Public Transport yes and east towards the footbridge across the
Summary Lofty Avdegar gives the feeling Hunza River. The high-water trail to the foot-
of looking at immense glaciers and peaks bridge, which is used from June to August,
from a helicopter, with the KKH and Passu stays on the hillside above the river and takes
far below. 30 minutes from the KKH. Meanwhile, in
spring and autumn, the low-water trail de-
scends to cross the gravelly flood plain in a
Avdegar, Passu’s winter yak pasture, is more direct line to the footbridge and takes
east of and high above the Hunza River. 20 minutes.
Avdegar’s fantastic, almost aerial views It takes 10 minutes and more than 400
west of the Ghulkin, Passu and Batura careful steps on narrow boards spaced 75cm
Glaciers and the peaks above them are apart to cross the scary suspension footbridge,
the attraction. The trek to Avdegar is best which may not be possible for anyone who
undertaken as an overnight trip, but can be experiences vertigo. In high winds, especially
done as a very strenuous eight- to 10-hour common in the afternoon and in spring, the
day trip. Fitness and previous acclimati- footbridge tilts radically and is impossible
sation are necessary for this relentlessly to cross.
steep route. Across the footbridge where the trail
emerges onto the plain, it forks; the left-
AVDEGAR 0
0
3 km
2 miles
hand trail goes northeast to Kharamabad,
To Afiyatabad START/FINISH
and the right-hand trail goes southeast to
SIDE TRIP
(Sost) (39km) Passu (2400m)
Avdegar
Zarabad (see the Two Bridges day walk, p311).
Yashbandan
Passu
Glacier
Ridge Top
Avdegar
To go to Avdegar, bear northeast and fol-
H wy
ver
(3930m) low the path 2km and one hour to pleasant
am Ri DAY 2
Kharamabad (2610m).
or a
ak nz
Ka
r Hu Go along the paths between houses on
Kharamabad
Zarabad (2610m) the west (lower) edge of the cultivated area.
Hussaini
Not for Navigation From the furthest stone house, continue
use listed maps
To Gulmit over the open barren area, heading for the
 356 G O J A L • • B a t u r a G l a c i e r lonelyplanet.com

vegetation that lines an abandoned canal com- BATURA GLACIER

ing from the base of the Avdegar slope. No
actual trail exists, but the open land makes
for easy walking. Follow the abandoned canal TREK FACTS
to its end in the stream bed at the base of the Duration five days
slope (2670m), 1.5km and one to 1½ hours Distance 65km
from Kharamabad. Standard moderate
The old trail to Avdegar started from the Season June–October
upper end of the stream bed, where a small wa- Start/Finish China Camp
terfall has worn a groove in the rock face. This Public Transport yes
trail was wiped out by rockfall in 1997, and now Summary Classic trek alongside a giant gla-
is a 20m-high rock chute. The current trail starts cier beneath the peaks of the Batura Wall and
several hundred metres further west of (down Batura Ice Floes with some of the western
from) the stream bed opposite the end of the Karakoram’s best mountain scenery.
abandoned canal. The stream has year-round
water, although you may have to walk well up-
stream to find it. Water above is scarce. Batura, the most accessible and fourth-longest
Ascend the dry, rocky, steep slope for one Karakoram glacier, stretches west 56km from
hour, climbing 300m to 400m over 1km as the KKH. The trek’s exceptional scenery
the trail works gradually east, to rejoin the includes 14 peaks higher than 7000m and
abandoned trail at the top of the steepest huge ice floes plummeting more than 4000m
section, just below the start of scattered ju- from the crest of the 7500m Batura Wall. In
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

niper trees (3360m). Continue up steeply pastures along the glacier’s margin, Wakhi
through scattered juniper, as the view grows shepherds tend their livestock.
more impressive. With almost no steep segments, the trek af-
PAKISTAN

Reach the more level pasture of Avdegar fords gradual acclimatisation, gaining less than
(3930m), marked by two cairns, in another 1½ 400m per day. The well-used, easy-to-follow
hours, or three to five hours from and 1340m trail mostly passes through ablation valleys
above Kharamabad. A three-sided stone shel- and along streams. The trek’s two crossings of
ter lies a short distance to the south, and level the Batura Glacier are fairly easy, yet a guide or
areas offer camp sites. Water comes from a porter is helpful for navigating the glacier.
stream in the gully to the south, which can be
hard to reach and dry in autumn. Planning
The view is spectacular, with Shīshpar The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research
dominating the horizon, and stretches from 1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 1) and
Ultar’s north side to Shīshpar and Passu peaks Deutschen Alpenverein (DAV) 1:100,000 map
at the Passu Glacier’s head, the tops of the Hunza-Karakorum cover the trek. It totals nine
Batura peaks behind Passu Sar, and the peaks stages round trip. Porters ask for Rs 370 per
at the Batura Glacier’s head in the distance, stage plus Rs 250 for clothing and equipment.
including Pamiri Sar (7016m). Morning sun
lights the glaciers and the peaks of the Batura Getting To/From the Trek
Muztagh nicely. For Passu accommodation and transport in-
A strenuous four- to six-hour side trip formation, see p310. Walk from any Passu
goes to the notch in the 4100m ridge above hotel or hop on any vehicle heading north for a
Avdegar, where a rock finger points up and 10-minute ride to China Camp between KKH
even more perspective can be gained. From mile markers 689 and 690. Look for the trail
the first large grassy area, head north (left) and amid overgrown vegetation at a signed canal.
cross the first large scree slope into a grassy
area. Then cross a smaller scree slope and The Trek
ascend the grassy area beyond, zigzagging The trail on Day 1 (five to six hours, 11.5km)
up the rock above the highest extent of grass. from China Camp (2430m), at the top of the
Passu yaks do this, which seems unlikely, but first rise just south of the bridge over the Batura
is true. Glacier’s outwash stream, leads you along lateral
Retrace your steps to Passu on Day 2 (five moraine to a high point above the chaotic glacial
to seven hours, 6.7km). rubble and on to the shepherds’ settlement at
lonelyplanet.com G O J A L • • S h i m s h a l Pa m i r 357

BATURA GLACIER 0
0
8 km
4 miles

Werthum Peak 5426m To Khunjerab Afiyatabad

(5844m) Werthum Pass Pass (70km) Sost Not for Navigation
Werthum High Camp (5147m)
(4975m) use listed maps
Yuk 5315m
sh Deposit Gircha
g oz Werthum
Camp
B ostong Stre a m Base Camp
(4363m)
Glac

Poop Lupdur
DAY 4
ier

(3870m) Shireen Maidan

KKH
Shikar Guchesham Base Camp r Riv e r
Gah (3630m) iba
Shireen Bo
SIDE TRIP Maidan
Shireen
Ma Jamalabad
e (3888m) ida
n Gl ac ier Morkhun
Flo

We

Shilmin
Ice

(3627m)
th
u
d

m
econ

Ghalapan
Na

Kukhil
Ba

la

(3501m)
a S

urt
a
t ur

Fatima'il Khaibar/
Gl

DAY 3 & 5 Khyber

Ba

Sheet
ac

(3402m) Yashpirt
ie

Hu
(3302m)
r

nza
Piyakh Sheet Kush Jurjurkhona
Ba Sar (5790m)
tu (3345m) Bel DAY 2
ra Uzhokpirt
III Wudmull (3075m)
(7729m) Fl oe (3090m) River
Bat ura First Ice Maidùn Ba
Wa

II (3420m) tura
(7762m) Muchu Chhish
ll

(7453m) Gla
I cier China Camp START/FINISH
(7794m) Kirgus (2430m)
Washk
Pas (3000m) Mulungeen Janabad
su
Passu Sar M Patundas Yunzben

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
as (4570m) (2880m)
(7478m) si Yu
nz
Passu Dior ier
Glac Va
f

(7295m) su lle
Pas y Passu
Borit Sar
(5790m)

PAKISTAN
Shìshpar
(7611m) To
Gulmit
(8km) Hussaini

Yunzben (2880m). At Yunzben, you move onto upper Batura Glacier, Kampir Dior (7168m)
the Batura Glacier. It takes fewer than two hours and the Yukshgoz Glacier. The views from
to manoeuvre across the somewhat convoluted Lupdur are worth the whole trek.
2km route to the opposite side. Once along the Retrace your steps, camping at Yashpirt
glacier’s north margin, mature willows and ju- or Uzhokpirt on Day 4 and reaching China
nipers offer ample shade on the way to Uzhokpirt Camp on Day 5. On the return, ambitious
(3075m), a welcoming spot to camp. trekkers may want to try crossing the Batura
The easy trail to Yashpirt on Day 2 (two to Glacier on one of two longer and more diffi-
three hours, 5.1km) meanders through pretty cult routes along the glacier’s south margin.
ablation valleys, amid substantial willow, wild
rose, tamarisk and juniper. The first impressive SHIMSHAL PAMIR
views of the upper Batura Glacier and Batura
First Ice Floe draw you up to the pastures at
juniper-surrounded Yashpirt (3302m). TREK FACTS
Pass through a lovely series of ablation val- Duration five days
leys with abundant juniper, willow, birch and Distance 84km
poplar and a series of pasture settlements on Standard moderate
Day 3 (five to six hours, 15.7km) to the highest Season June–September
settlement at Guchesham (3630m). The views Start/Finish Shimshal village
of the Batura Wall from the moraine south of Public Transport yes
Guchesham are spectacular, and Destaghil Sar Summary Trekking to the Shimshal Pamir
rises to the east in the distance. takes you to Shimshalis’ favourite place,
The highly recommended six-hour side trip where lakes sparkle on the Central Asian
from Guchesham to the meadow at Lupdur watershed and shepherds call melodiously
(3870m) offers the best views of the Batura across the highlands.
Second Ice Floe, and excellent views of the
 358 G O J A L • • S h i m s h a l Pa m i r lonelyplanet.com

SHIMSHAL PAMIR 0
0
10 km
6 miles

Boisum Pass Mai Dur Pass

(4875m) Not for Navigation
(5700m)

Gu
Khush use listed maps

nj -e- Du
Dur-e-Gush Chashkin-e-Sar
(4929m) Pamir Mai Dur
(5915m)
Shpodeen Pass
(5346m) (4348m)

r Rive
Pamir
M ai D Chashkin
Shpodeen Uween-e-Sar u
(4471m) (4650m) Purien-e-Sar
Shachmirk Pass DAY 3

r
r
Shuizherav
(4560m) (3916m) Arbab Purien

River
(4350m) Mungalig Sar
Zardgarben Targeen (3931m)
(4075m) (5931m)
To KKH Yarzeen
ive r

r
(3850m) Tang R Qerqazi Shuiz

ve
(54km) Michael
-e-

Ri
r Kheshk he r a v
Sh im Bridge m i Purien-e-Ben
shal Ri ve r DAY 5 (3596m) Abdullah
Pa

Khan DAY 4
Wuch Furzeen
Shimshal (3365m) Maidan Shimshal Pass
(3000m) Band-e-Sar (4735m)
Gar-e-Sar DAY 2 Shuwerth
START Chat Pirt
(3502m) Past Furzeen
FINISH (3517m) Zhit Badav
River
ldu
Qapachpund Pass
Chikor
Bra
(5270m)
ier
ac

Adver Sar
Gl

(6600m)
il
gh

Kh
z
Ya

Yazghil Sar ur
(5964m) do
G

ur
ha k
la

t i ya r D

B
ci
pin
er

Almost 1000 yaks and several thousand sheep The Trek

and goats graze in the Shimshal Pamir, an Follow the Shimshal River east on Day 1 (seven
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

extensive alpine grassland above 4500m. to eight hours, 12km) from Shimshal village
Shimshalis make traditional seasonal mi- (3000m) and fill water bottles at the spring
grations, called kuch, to their beloved before the footbridge, the only water for hours
PAKISTAN

Shimshal Pamir, and fortunate trekkers may along this trail. Cross the footbridge to the
be able to join them. In late May they leave river’s true right bank, veer right (avoiding the
Shimshal village for Shuizherav, and in June trail to Zardgarben that climbs immediately)
move to Shuwerth, the main summer set- and follow the wide river bed 1½ hours or
tlement. In early September, they move to 5km to the confluence of the Shimshal and
Shuizherav, and in October they return to Pamir-e-Tang Rivers.
Shimshal village. Ford the Pamir-e-Tang River to its true left
Two trails to the Shimshal Pamir join one bank, marvelling at the immense gorge. Ascend
another at Purien-e-Ben. The tang (gorge) the steep spur between the two rivers for 2km
route, which is described here, goes by the or 1½ hours, as you round a bend and enter a
Pamir-e-Tang River. The other route, the basin. The ascent continues steadily through
uween (pass) route, which crosses two ar- artemisia steppes, passing lots of igneous rock.
duous passes (Shachmirk and Uween-e- Just above the basin, the trail splits; take the
Sar, both are higher than 4500m), was the right fork to Gar-e-Sar. Several cairns mark
standard way until 1997 when the tang trail Gar-e-Sar (3502m), or ‘top of the rock’. Here
was improved. However, the uween route you have superb vistas of the Yazghil Glacier,
is still used by yaks going to and from the Adver Sar, and the hard-to-see 7000m peaks of
Shimshal Pamir. the Hispar Muztagh: Kunyang Chhīsh; Pumori
Chhīsh; and Yukshin Gardan.
Planning From Gar-e-Sar, follow level galleries pass-
The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research ing eroded cliffs on the canyon’s opposite side.
1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 1) covers Reach Shanj in 15 minutes, a scree-filled gully
the trek. Porters ask for a flat rate of Rs 300 where an unreliable trickle of water flows.
per stage plus Rs 500 clothing and equip- Traverse 450m above the river on an exposed
ment allowance. The trek totals 12 stages trail 1½ to two hours, then descend a steep
round trip. 130m scree slope to Past Furzeen (3517m). A
clear side stream provides generally reliable
Getting To/From the Trek water during summer, and has a few tent
For Shimshal accommodation and transport sites. You must be prepared to walk to Wuch
information, see p313. Furzeen if it’s dry.
lonelyplanet.com G O J A L • • Pa m i r i 359

On Day 2 (six hours, 13km) ascend along mood. Everyone must be happy and it’s best
the stream, soon leaving it to ascend a dif- to enter singing!
ficult section called Gulchin Purien. The Stroll two hours through meadows amid
route ascends steadily and traverses high be- herds of yaks, skirting the two lakes that lie
fore descending a scree gully to Wuch Furzeen on the watershed between South Asia and
(3365m) with a small spring, which if dry Central Asia, to the Shimshal Pass (4735m).
necessitates an awkward trip down to the river Pleasant camp sites (4700m) are in the level
for silty water. area just north of (below) Shimshal Pass, in
Descend to the Pamir-e-Tang River in 15 view of the lakes. Fifteen minutes beyond
minutes and cross a footbridge. Continue the almost unnoticeable Shimshal Pass is the
along the river’s true right bank for 30 main summer settlement of Shuwerth.
minutes, ascending a short scree slope to Retrace the tang route in two days
a flat area 60m above the river. Follow the (41.6km), camping at Wuch Furzeen on
trail ascending 150m along galleries, and de- Day 4. (The longer and more difficult
scend into Purien-e-Ben (3596m) in another uween trail offers a challenging three-day
45 minutes. alternative route.)
Cross the Pamir Mai Dur River via a
footbridge. Climb 320m on the 30-degree PAMIRI
trail up the canyon wall out of Purien-e-
Ben, through a doorway and up a juniper
staircase (purien) one hour to Purien-e-Sar TREK FACTS
(3916m), the plain above. Mungalig Sar Duration three days

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
(5931m) is the prominent peak to the east, Distance 22km
Adver Sar (6600m) to the west, and the Standard moderate
striking Chat Pirt massif to the south. Season mid-June–September

PAKISTAN
Beyond Purien-e-Sar, the walk becomes Start/Finish Zood Khun
easier. The trail traverses high above the Public Transport yes
river, crossing several tributary streams in Summary One of Chapursan’s few short
narrow gorges. Traverse gently to a rocky open-zone treks, Pamiri has dramatic views
rise and you’ll reach the first side stream, of 7000m peaks, glaciers and icefalls.
Kushk Yarzeen, in 1¼ hours. Arbab Purien
(3931m), the nicest of these side valleys
and a good place to camp with a spring, The snowy summits of Chapursan’s high-
is 30 minutes further beneath distinctive est peaks, Kampir Dior (7168m) and Pamiri
red rocks. Sar (7016m), rise above the convoluted ice
Start Day 3 (six to seven hours, 17km) of the imposing Yishkuk Glacier. A relent-
by passing above Miter Kheshk in one hour lessly rocky route along the glacier’s north-
and descending towards the river. Follow west margin, averaging four hours and 340m
the rocky trail along the river for 45 min- ascent per day upvalley, leads to Pamiri, a
utes to the confluence of the Gunj-e-Dur base camp for these 7000m giants.
and Shuizherav Rivers. Cross a footbridge to
the Gunj-e-Dur River’s true left bank. Pass Planning
the huts at Qerqazi Kheshk and follow the The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research
Shuizherav River two to 2½ hours to the set- 1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 1) cov-
tlement of Shuizherav (4350m), with many ers the trek. Porters ask for a flat rate of
shepherds’ huts along the river and an alter- Rs 320 per stage. The trek totals six stages
native camping area below. round trip.
Cross the footbridge to the Shuizherav’s
true left bank and ascend a side stream’s true Getting To/From the Trek
right bank. The easy ascent to Abdullah Khan For Zood Khun accommodation and trans-
Maidan (4600m) takes one hour. The pamir port information, see p316 and p316.
(glacially formed high-elevation valleys re-
nowned as summer grazing grounds) is the The Trek
precinct of women and children, who have Day 1 (four hours, 9km) starts by passing
a rule: you cannot enter the pastures in a sad through the gate (3368m) across the road at
 360 G O J A L • • K i l i k & M i n t a k a Pa s s e s lonelyplanet.com

Zood Khun’s western end. Leave the road, KILIK & MINTAKA PASSES
heading west past Yishkuk Hilga on a trail that
crosses and recrosses the Chapursan River via
two footbridges. Stroll through the grassy, TREK FACTS
spring-fed areas of Zhui Sam and Korkut, Duration six days
reaching the shepherds’ settlement at Kuk Distance 88km
Chezham (3393m), near the Yishkuk Glacier’s Standard easy
mouth, in 1½ hours (4km). Season June–September
The prominent red rock called Sekr beck- Start/Finish Misgar
ons you steadily and gradually up along the Public Transport yes
glacier’s lateral moraine. Step over the stream Summary Wide, well-established trails lead
at Sekr, continue ascending to cross a shoul- up two broad valleys filled with wildflowers,
der and reach the reliable clear stream at dramatic cascades, petroglyphs and wild-
Shigard Yishkuk Zherav (3745m), 2½ hours or life to two historic passes on the Chinese
5km from Kuk Chezham. A level yet rocky border.
alluvial fan affords camp sites dramatic
glacier views.
The first 10km of Day 2 (four to five hours, For more than 1000 years, Kilik and Mintaka
13km) is a very rugged traverse along scree were important Silk Road passes and Misgar
and talus slopes. The welcome sight of a clear (3075m) was the jumping-off point. Following
stream draws you across the final rocky sec- Britain’s conquest of Hunza in 1891, Misgar
tion to a grassy, flower-filled ablation valley. became the British listening post on Central
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

A wide, level area with excellent mountain Asia. British sportsmen crossed Kilik Pass
views offers alternative camp sites to Pamiri. (4827m) to hunt Marco Polo sheep and spy on
Ten minutes further, a small lake called Qush Russian travellers. Hunza men carried weekly
PAKISTAN

Zhui (3985m) fills the ablation valley. dispatches from Gilgit to the British consulate
Pamiri (4048m) lies less than an hour above in Kashgar via Mintaka Pass (4726m). After
the lake, tucked into a narrow spot against the Pakistan’s Independence in 1947, these two
glacier’s moraine. You can climb onto the passes became off limits to foreigners until
moraine ridge for otherwise ‘hidden’ moun- 1999. Today trekkers can visit these passes
tain views, or you can go on an excursion where in 1894 Lord Curzon stood at the out-
up the side valley for better views of peaks ermost edge of Britain’s empire.
and icefalls. Kilik and Mintaka are rich in cultural and
Retrace your steps to Zood Khun on Day 3 natural history. You find ancient Kyrgyz
(six to seven hours, 22km). tombs, old polo grounds, prehistoric petro-
glyphs, abundant wildflowers, rare butter-
PAMIRI 0
0
8 km
4 miles
flies, and plenty of ibex and brown bear
To Baba Ghundi START/FINISH signs. Built by the military, the wide trails
Ziarat (12km) Kampir Ispenji To KKH
Zood Khun (3368m)
Chapursan ver
Ri
Dior Reshit (35km) to these gentle passes are easy to follow,
Sher-e-
Kuk Chezham Yishkuk Shutmerg Sabz Sumayar with less than 600m of ascent or descent
(3393m) (3450m)
DAY 2 Raud
per day. Trekking days average five hours,
Shigard Sekr (3600m) springs and trees are abundant, and camp
Yishkuk Not for Navigation
Zherav Kit-ke-zherav Wy use listed maps sites are grassy.
r

(3690m) e
cie

(3745m)
Gla

en

Wyeen Haji Beg Lupgar

Qush Zhui (4100m) Camp Pir Pass Planning
(3985m) (4680m) (5190m) Ghorhil
Ba n
DAY 3
a fshayee
n Va l l ey Ilga
The US AMS 1:250,000 map Baltit (NJ 43-
Wyeen
Gl acier

Pamiri (4048m)
(4530m) 14) covers the trek, except Kilik Pass. Porters
ask for a flat rate of Rs 350 per stage. The
Yishkuk

trek totals eight stages round trip, not in-

Yu
ks
cluding the side trips. It totals 10 stages
hg
oz
Gl
when you do both side trips as day walks.
Kuk Sar ac
(6943m)
i er

Pamiri Sar
Getting To/From the Trek
Kampir Dior
(7168m)
(7016m)
Glacier
For Misgar accommodation and transport
tura
Ba information, see p316.
lonelyplanet.com B A LT I S TA N 361

shepherds’ camp. Ascend a rocky hillside trail

KILIK & MINTAKA PASSES to a broad, rolling pamir and Kilik Pass, a
0 10 km
0 6 miles
plateau with a sizable lake nearby. On the
Kilik Pass return stay high above the river, traversing
dumbash (4827m) Not for Navigation
TaghPam ir SIDE TRIP use listed maps
flower-carpeted hillsides with excellent views
Luto Harai
Khush Dur Khoja Ghoom downvalley, until you descend directly above
z
Harhurutum
Goz Harai
CHINA pgo
Lu alley
Haaq. On Day 3 (three to 3½ hours, 11.7km)
Uween Pert V retrace your steps downvalley to Murkushi.
Haaq
DAY 3 DAY 5
Riv
er Sad Buldi Gul Khwaja The second half of the trek takes you
n (4244m) SIDE TRIP
cha Uween
from Murkushi towards Mintaka Pass. The
Hapu Shireen
Gurgun Boi
(4196m)
z Nala Maidan
Mintaka Valley retains a classic Karakoram
Ku Pert Hil Mintaka
River Pass
Sisghil Jurjur Hil feel, and its reddish-brown granite terraces,
Ki l i

Ash (4726m)
Goresho Gamuural
k

Ship Shepk level grassy areas, side streams and waterfalls

Riv

Yatumgoz
Wodwashk Iletum Harai
e

give it a dramatic but pleasant quality. The

r

Pass Harai (4059m) Gul Khwaja

a

Uween Glacier
ak

Murkushi t easy walk on Day 4 (four hours, 11.5km)

(3659m) M in
Wo
d Lup Jangal DAY 2, 4 & 6 ascends four short rocky sections, remnants
wash

Put Hil
Rung Hil of ancient landslides that once dammed
k Bar

Arbab-e-Bul the river, and crosses four broad grassy

NORTHERN
AREAS areas, former lake beds. At Gul Khwaja Uween
(4196m), where two free-leaping cascades
Khan Wali
(3205m) tumble over a granite cliff, there are many
roofless stone shelters built by the army.

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
Kalam Darchi Attractive grassy terraces on the cliffs above
Kermin
To Khunjerab
Pass
START/FINISH Pass (50km) and the clear white central ice of the Gul
Misgar Khwaja Uween Glacier give this camp site a

PAKISTAN
(3075m)
Kil Rv dramatic appeal.
her H

ik
KK
av

Ri To Afiyatabad
ve (Sost)
r Flowers decorate the hillside on the
nz

(5km)
Khu

side trip to Mintaka Pass (four to 4½ hours,

7.5km), where the plaintive calls of ram
The Trek chukor partridge and shrill whistles of
On Day 1 (six to seven hours, 21km), the golden marmots echo off the cliffs. The area
road from Misgar parallels the Kilik River around Mintaka Pass has many brown bear
to its confluence with the Dilisang River and wolf signs. Day 5 (3½ hours, 11.5km)
near Kalam Darchi fort. Beyond, the trail takes you back to Murkushi before contin-
passes through a series of inviting level uing downvalley to Misgar on Day 6 (five
grassy birch groves beneath the towering hours, 21km).
cliffs on either side of well-watered valley.
Murkushi (3659m) is the last and largest of
these plains at the confluence of the Kilik
and Mintaka Rivers.
BALTISTAN
Rising steadily along the Kilik River be- Baltistan is the centre of the Karakoram with
neath polished granite cliffs, the trail on Day five of its biggest glaciers – Biafo (65km),
2 (4½ hours, 11.7km) passes spring-fed birch Baltoro (62km), Chogo Lungma (44km),
and willow oases until levelling out at the Panmah (42km), and Kaberi and Kondus
plain called Shireen Maidan. The landscape (36km) – offering the longest glacier traverses
changes from the steep spires and rocky outside the subpolar zones. The renowned
summits of the Karakoram to the rounded Balti-pa, who live among the Karakoram’s
rolling grasslands of the pamir. The gentle peaks and glaciers, welcome trekkers and
trail continues to the windswept plain of Sad climbers with a cheerfulness that belies their
Buldi (4244m). Across the river is the shep- icebound surroundings. Most of Baltistan’s
herds’ settlement of Haaq. trekking routes are in restricted zones, which
The side trip to Kilik Pass (four to 4½ hours, require a permit and experience with techni-
11km) parallels the grassy, flower-strewn cal glacier travel. Hushe in eastern Baltistan
Kilik Valley upriver to Luto Harai, where offers easy open-zone treks, one of which is
several tumbledown stone walls mark an old described in this section.
 362 B A LT I S TA N • • H u m b r o k lonelyplanet.com

HIGHWAYS OF ROCK & ICE

So, you want the ultimate in Karakoram trekking? Then traverse the length of a Karakoram glacier.
Two treks epitomise this experience: the Hispar La trek to Snow Lake, and the Baltoro Glacier
trek to K2 Base Camp. Both take you up massive ice highways lined with magnificent peaks and
towers into the very heart of the Karakoram.
The Hispar La is a glaciated pass that links the Biafo (65km) and Hispar (49km) Glaciers, the
Karakoram’s longest continuous stretch of glacier (114km). At the base of the Hispar La is Lukpe
Lawo, commonly called Snow Lake, one of the world’s largest glacial basins. More than a dozen
7000m peaks and the Biafo’s granite spires – Lukpe Lawo Brak (6593m), Lukpe Brak (6029m) and
Baintha Brak (7285m) – form a magnificent cathedral of mountain architecture. Every year, trekkers
cross this technical pass between Baltistan and Nagyr through what both Francis Younghusband
and HW Tilman called the finest mountain scenery in the world, scenery that ‘attracts by its
grandeur, but repels by its desolation’. This trek, extreme in difficulty, is an awesome but re-
warding experience.
The Baltoro Glacier (62km), the Karakoram’s third longest, leads into some of the planet’s most
extensively glaciated terrain. Seven of the world’s 25 highest peaks rise above the glacier; the
Gasherbrums (I – 8068m, II – 8035m, III – 7952m and IV – 7925m), Broad Peak (8047m), and K2
(8611m), the world’s second-highest peak. All along the lower Baltoro Glacier are monumental
sheer-rock walls and granite towers – Uli Biaho, the Trangos, the Cathedrals – that draw the
world’s elite climbers. Trekkers who pass through this majestic landscape and visit the base
TREKKING IN NORTHERN

camps share in a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The trek is demanding, but is glacier travel at its
best. Far and away, it’s Pakistan’s most popular trek.
Glaciers are a compelling natural phenomenon, and trekking up one takes you into an other-
PAKISTAN

worldly realm; different, dangerous, beautiful and deceptive. It’s essential to prepare thoroughly
by learning about glacier travel, rope technique and crevasse rescue.

HUMBROK side valley high above the Hushe River west

of Hushe village. Humbrok offers attractive
camp sites, great views and abundant springs.
TREK FACTS You can greet Balti shepherds in these pas-
Duration two days tures or take a highly recommended side
Distance 11km trip to the ridge line for a hard-to-obtain
Standard easy glimpse of K2’s summit pyramid. Humbrok
Season June–October
Start/Finish Hushe HUMBROK 0
0
3 km
2 miles
Public Transport yes
Not for Navigation
Summary The best short open-zone trek use listed maps
from Hushe village with a side trip for a
glimpse of K2. Wesuk

Humbrok Glacier;
Masherbrum (7821m), shimmering at the Humbrok & DAY 2
Cigarette
head of the Hushe Valley, beckons travel- Peaks Humbrok
(3680m) Hushe
lers north from Khaplu. Hushe (3050m),
Hushe

(3050m)
a
Humbrok Nal START/FINISH
the valley’s highest village, is the start-
Riv

ing point. Hushe’s friendly population SIDE TRIP

er

and their long history of involvement

with trekkers and climbers makes this a
welcoming destination. Spang-e-Go
(4180m)
Most treks from Hushe are restricted-zone
treks, but one outstanding open-zone trek
takes you to a delightfully unvisited alpine To Khaplu
(35km)
setting. Picturesque Humbrok nestles in a
 © Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com B A LT I S TA N • • H u m b r o k 363

is a splendid place to spend a day or two. rigated fields, but soon continues up through
The trail, although not hard to find, is steep, steep, rocky terrain dotted by artemisia.
ascending 630m. Attractive camp sites are in the meadow be-
yond the cluster of shepherds’ huts at Humbrok
Planning (3680m). At the head of the valley is the
The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research Humbrok Glacier, beneath the black pyra-
1:250,000 map Karakoram (Sheet 2) covers mid of Humbrok Peak (6459m) and sharp,
the trek. Porters ask for a flat rate of Rs 360 snow-clad Cigarette Peak.
per stage plus Rs 250 clothing and equipment A side trip to the alpine meadow on the
allowance. The trek totals two stages round ridge line south of Humbrok offers spectacu-
trip, excluding the side trip. lar views of the surrounding peaks, including
distant K2. Unless you’re previously acclima-
Getting To/From the Trek tised, wait until the next morning to embark
For Hushe accommodation and transport on this five-hour side trip. The gruelling 500m
information, see p293. ascent to the ridge line follows livestock paths
for a short distance, but then becomes a cross-
The Trek country route. Ask a shepherd to show you
On Day 1 (2½ to three hours, 5.5km) follow the way to the spectacular viewpoint called
the Hushe River’s west bank to Humbrok Spang-e-Go (4180m).
Nala, then turn west and follow the stream’s Retrace your steps to Hushe on Day 2 (1½
north bank. At first the ascent is through ir- to two hours, 5.5km).

TREKKING IN NORTHERN
PAKISTAN

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
TDHI RU EMCBT OT RA YB 364

Directory
Prices throughout this book are based on
CONTENTS a hotel’s cheapest single/double room (in al-
most all budget and some midrange places
Accommodation 364 this does not include air-con) and don’t in-
Activities 366 clude taxes unless otherwise stated. In towns
Business Hours 366 where we make no recommendations you’re
Children 367 most likely to find cheap lodgings around the
Climate Charts 367 train or bus stations.
Customs 367 All places listed in this book’s regional
Dangers & Annoyances 369 chapters have private attached bathroom un-
Discount Cards 369 less otherwise mentioned. If a hotel (budget
Embassies & Consulates 370 and midrange) advertises a hot shower you
Festivals & Events 370 should first check to see whether the shower
Food 371 works effectively (if at all) and if it does in-
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 371 deed deliver hot water. Some showers render
Holidays 372 a mere trickle of water, making the bucket a
Insurance 372 better bet. Squat toilets are only common in
Internet Access 372 the budget category, although some lower-
Legal Matters 372 priced hotels have a mix of squat and sit-
Maps 373 down flush toilets. Most budget places don’t
Money 373 supply toilet paper or soap (possibly no towel
Photography 375 either), and hot water may be irregular or
Post 375 only available during certain hours. Apart
Shopping 376 from top-end hotels, many places use wall-
Solo Travellers 376 mounted electric geysers (water heaters) that
Telephone 377 need to be switched on up to an hour before
Time 377 use. Almost all budget and midrange hotel
Toilets 377 bathroom sinks lack plugs.
Tourist Information 378 Accommodation prices aren’t always fixed.
Travellers With Disabilities 378 Popular domestic holiday destinations, such
Visas 378 as Upper Swat, the Kaghan Valley and the
Volunteering 379 Galis, can get extremely crowded in summer
Women Travellers 379 and prices skyrocket. Off-season, on the other
hand, you should be able to strike bargains
ACCOMMODATION with the handful of places that remain open.
Accommodation in Pakistan and Xinjiang Hotels in all price categories are usually open
ranges from ramshackle budget lodgings to to tariff negotiation in off-peak periods or if
five-star opulence but the entire range is not al- occupancy levels are low. The downturn in
ways on offer. Outside major cities and summer foreign tourism in recent years has largely led
resorts, you won’t find luxurious hotels; yet, the
budget accommodation can be surprisingly
more salubrious than that found in the cities. BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE
Foreigners may not be welcome at some For more accommodation reviews and rec-
budget places in Pakistan because these hotels ommendations by Lonely Planet authors,
don’t have the necessary government hotel- check out the online booking service at
register form. For those places that do accept www.lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find the true,
foreigners, check-out is typically late morning, insider lowdown on the best places to stay.
but may sometimes be in the afternoon or 24 Reviews are thorough and independent.
hours from check-in; in any case, it’s often Best of all, you can book online.
flexible if requested beforehand.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n 365

DIRECTORY
PRACTICALITIES
Pakistan and China use the metric system.
Electricity is 220/240V 50/60 Hz AC in Pakistan and 220V 50 Hz AC in China. Pakistani sockets
accept two round pins, although some accept a third (earth or ground) pin. Chinese sockets
accept two flat pins or three-pronged angle pins. Adaptors are widely available, but 120V to
220V converters are scarce.
Major English-language dailies in Pakistan include Dawn, The Nation, The News, Daily Times
and Frontier Post. Dawn, The Nation and The News are the pick of the bunch.
The China Daily is China’s official English-language newspaper.
In Pakistan read incisive current affairs in the monthly Newsline and Herald magazines.
State-run Pakistan Broadcasting Corporation (PBC) transmits largely government viewpoints
and Islamic values over the radio airwaves. There are a growing number of private FM broad-
casters.
Pakistan has satellite and cable TV available at all top-end, many midrange and a couple of
budget hotels. Channels include Discovery, BBC, CNN and Star Movies. The national broad-
caster is PTV.
Chinese Central TV (CCTV) has two sanitised English-language channels.

to supply exceeding demand, furthering the some hostels impose night curfews. In sum-
opportunity for bargaining. mer, hostels in the Northern Areas (NA) can
Breakdowns and blackouts (‘load shed- be especially popular with Pakistani students,
ding’) are fairly common in remote towns and if they’re busy you may only be permitted
and villages (less frequent in the larger cities), to stay for several days. See regional chapters
so it pays to carry a flashlight. Sound pollution for details.
can be diabolical, especially in urban centres,
so bring good-quality earplugs. Government Resthouses
Hotel tariffs are usually raised annually, Also called circuit houses, inspection bun-
so the prices quoted in this book are likely to galows or dak bungalows, most government
have risen by the time you read this. resthouses are two- or three-unit guesthouses
Note that some hotels in cantonment areas run by government agencies for staff on busi-
of a city may deny accommodation to anyone ness. Each has a chowkidar (caretaker) living
who has ‘Not Valid for Cantt Area’ stamped nearby who can, by arrangement, prepare
next to their visa – for more information meals. At some places you may need to bring
see p378. your own bedding.
In principle, government resthouses are
Camping & Youth Hostels available to tourists if nobody else is using them.
Overlanders with their own transport can In practice many of them must be booked with
park and camp cheaply at a few camp sites the relevant person (often a chief engineer) in
as well as at several hotel grounds (regional district capitals. You could take your chances
chapters have details). Vandalism and theft are without a booking, although it’s wise not to do
usually not a problem. In Xinjiang you can’t so if it’s the only accommodation available in the
pitch a tent with any security around larger area. Campers or cyclists may be able to pitch
towns, but you can camp at places like Kara a tent in the grounds (for a nominal charge),
Kul and below Muztagh Ata. which usually make great camping spots.
The Pakistan Youth Hostels Association The best resthouses and their booking
(PYHA), with headquarters at Youth Hostel offices are noted in the regional chapters.
Islamabad (see p81), runs a number of hostels
in Pakistan, with gender-segregated dormito- Railway Retiring Rooms
ries, gardens where you can often pitch a tent Pakistan Railways provides retiring rooms at
and (usually) cooking facilities. Guests may be most major city train stations. These are mostly
required to lend a hand with clean-up, and spartan singles/doubles that are only available
DIRECTORY 366 D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s lonelyplanet.com

to holders of air-con or 1st-class sleeper tickets for details) in larger towns and tourist areas,
(usually departing within 24 hours). They’re and sometimes from wardens on the spot.
really only useful if you arrive very late at night Some Fisheries offices rent tackle.
or depart very early in the morning, and even
then you may find them full. You may have Skiing
to supply your own bedding and checkout Simple downhill skiing facilities exist in the
is within 24 hours. Cleanliness is variable. Naltar Valley near Gilgit and at Kalabagh
Waiting rooms with sofas, toilets and showers near Murree. The country’s biggest ski re-
may also be available. sort is at Malam Jaba in the Swat Valley. The
season is from December through to March.
Village Guesthouses Experienced ski mountaineers can enjoy
In the Northern Areas, the Aga Khan Rural world-class mountain ski touring on the
Support Programme and Pakistan Tourism Deosai Plains and on the Batura, Hispar and
Development Corporation (PTDC) started a Biafo Glaciers in March and April.
Village Guest House programme under which
people converted parts of their homes into Whitewater Boating
guesthouses, with a few comfortable rooms Several rivers in the North-West Frontier
and home-cooked meals. Those that survived Province (NWFP) and NA have stretches
are now self-supporting. Most aren’t really of class IV or easier rapids; ie suitable for
‘homestays’, since guests tend to be left to commercial rafting and kayaking. These in-
themselves and fed separately, but they’re clude the Indus (Jaglot to Thakot in Indus
closer to grassroots level than a hotel. A few Kohistan), Kunhar (Naran to Kaghan in
that are especially good value are mentioned the Kaghan Valley), Swat (Madyan to Saidu
in this book’s regional chapters. Sharif), Gilgit (from Punial to the Indus
confluence), Lower Ishkoman, Shyok (from
ACTIVITIES Khapalu to Gol in Baltistan) and Hunza (Sost
By far the most popular activity for visitors to Passu and Aliabad to Gilgit). Parts of the
to Pakistan is trekking, which is covered in Chitral River are also open. The rafting season
the Trekking in Northern Pakistan chapter is approximately May to late June and late
(p331). Also popular are day hikes, which September through to November.
are presented in the relevant regional chap-
ters. Some Pakistani and overseas adventure- BUSINESS HOURS
travel agencies offer various group packages Pakistan
including mountain and desert 4WD safa- Government offices operate from around 8am
ris, horse treks, cross-country skiing, winter to 3pm Monday to Thursday and Saturday,
yak safaris, desert camel treks and assorted and 8am to noon on Friday. Private offices
special-interest trips. generally open from 9am to 5pm Monday
to Friday (some closing between noon and
Cycling 1pm for prayers) and some also operate on
The Karakoram Highway (KKH) could have Saturday (often only until 3pm).
been invented for cyclists, although it’s often State banks (foreign-exchange sections) are
a demanding trip; for more about the road, usually open from 9am to 1.30pm Monday
bringing a bike to China and Pakistan, and to Thursday and 9am to 12.30pm on Friday
overseas resources, see p385. Information on and Saturday. Some banks stay open longer.
risky areas is provided in each regional chapter. Post office timings vary regionally but they
Also take note of the rockfall warning, p369. generally open from around 9am to 4pm
Monday to Thursday and Saturday, and
Fishing 9am to 12.30pm on Friday, although some
Many of Pakistan’s mountain rivers and lakes stay open longer and some close for 30 min-
are stocked with trout. Popular reaches are utes between 1pm and 2pm. Most museums
in the Gilgit River basin, the Astor Valley, open from around 9am to 5pm in summer
Baltistan, the Kaghan Valley, Swat and Chitral. and to 4pm in winter (see regional chapters
Trout season is usually from 10 March to 9 for exact timings); many are closed on the
October. Information and licences are avail- first Wednesday of each month throughout
able at Fisheries offices (see regional chapters the year.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • C h i l d re n 367

DIRECTORY
Restaurant hours are variable. Breakfast is rated by the driving standards. For long trips,
usually available from approximately 7am and trains are usually the most comfortable mode
restaurants open for dinner around 6pm to of transport.
7pm. Some stay open throughout the day. For helpful hints, grab Lonely Planet’s
During Ramazan (Ramadan), opening Travel with Children, and peruse the Kids to
hours are shortened by most government Go branch of Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum
offices and many businesses, especially res- (http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com) where you can also
taurants (which are typically closed from pose questions to fellow travellers.
dawn to dusk); hours vary across the country,
with notices usually posted on the business’s CLIMATE CHARTS
entrance. Pakistan has three main seasons: cool (around
October to February), hot (around March
China to June) and wet/monsoon (around July to
Everything official runs on Beijing time, September). There are, however, big regional
opening at 8.30am and usually closing at 5pm variations – see p15 for more information,
Monday to Friday. However, in Kashgar and and p368 for climate chart diagrams.
Tashkurgan people operate on (unofficial)
‘Xinjiang time’, which is two hours earlier. A CUSTOMS
few businesses may add a half day on Saturday Pakistan
but Sunday is universally the day of rest. Alcohol cannot be brought into Pakistan. If
you have overlooked this fact, declare it to a
CHILDREN customs officer who should provide a receipt
Despite the friendly reception children receive so you can claim the booze back when you
in Pakistan, travelling with little ones can be depart. Tobacco attracts limits of 200 ciga-
hard work and requires constant vigilance, rettes and 50 cigars.
especially near chaotic city roads. It’s also There are no other significant entry re-
important to realise that health risks such as strictions, and no apparent limits on import/
diarrhoea pose a greater threat to children export of foreign cash. No special permit is
than adults (see p395) – consult your doctor currently needed to bring in your own bicycle,
for advice well before travelling. although you’re expected to have noted it on
Remember to pack plenty of high-factor your visa application.
sunscreen and a snug-fitting wide-brimmed On departure, baggage inspection is usually
hat. A washable changing mat will come in cursory for foreigners unless you have obvious
handy for covering dirty (germ-ridden) sur- items like furniture, in which case you may be
faces. If your child takes special medication, asked for sales receipts and bank encashment
it’s wise to bring along an adequate stock. receipts. Airport security staff may confiscate
Standard baby products such as nappies (dia- batteries from cameras and walkmans etc that
pers) are available in the larger Pakistani cities are carried in any hand luggage, so consider
but can be tough to find in smaller centres. putting these in your check-in baggage before
Always carry sufficient clean drinking water you get to the airport.
as children can dehydrate quickly, especially You’re not allowed to export antiquities; if
during the warmer months. in doubt, make sure you ask a museum cura-
Midrange hotels usually have ‘family tor or top-end hotel shopkeeper who deals
rooms’ or will readily provide an extra bed in antiquities. If you buy more than US$500
(sometimes at an additional cost). Restaurants worth of jewellery in Pakistan, there’s the
rarely have children’s menus, and although slight possibility you may be asked to pro-
they’re often happy to whip up something duce receipts and/or money-exchange (or
special in the cities, many country eateries credit-card) receipts to the value of the items
simply don’t have the resources. Numerous purchased. Indeed, if you’ve done a lot of
Pakistani restaurants have special family sec- shopping in Pakistan it’s probably a good idea
tions that separate women and family groups to have the money-exchange and/or credit-
from the majority male clientele. card receipts and shop receipts handy in
Most children will find the overcrowded case you’re asked to show them (the money-
public transport disconcerting, and, depend- exchange and credit-card receipts should total
ing on the child, will be terrified or exhila- the shop receipts).
 climate charts (M)
DIRECTORY 368 D I R E C T O R Y • • C u s t o m s lonelyplanet.com

CHITRAL 1439m (4721ft)

Average
Max/Min KASHGAR 1309m (4296ft)
Average
Max/Min

°C Temp °F in Rainfall mm °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm

40 104 12 300 40 104 12 300

30 86 30 86
8 200 8 200
20 68 20 68

10 50 10 50
4 100 4 100
0 32 0 32

-10 14 0 0 -10 14 0 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D

GILGIT 1600m (5252ft)

Average
Max/Min LAHORE 209m (688ft)
Average
Max/Min

°C Temp °F in Rainfall mm °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm

40 104 12 300 40 104 12 300

30 86 30 86
8 200 8 200
20 68 20 68

10 50 10 50
4 100 4 100
0 32 0 32

-10 14 0 0 -10 14 0 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D

ISLAMABAD 511m (1644ft)

Average
Max/Min PESHAWAR 354m (1161ft)
Average
Max/Min

°C Temp °F in Rainfall mm °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm

40 104 12 300 40 104 12 300

30 86 30 86
8 200 8 200
20 68 20 68

10 50 10 50
4 100 4 100
0 32 0 32

-10 14 0 0 -10 14 0 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D

KARACHI 4m (13ft)
Average
Max/Min QUETTA 1654m (5429ft)
Average
Max/Min

°C Temp °F in Rainfall mm °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm

40 104 12 300 40 104 12 300

30 86 30 86
8 200 8 200
20 68 20 68

10 50 10 50
4 100 4 100
0 32 0 32

-10 14 0 0 -10 14 0 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D

Officials are very sharp-eyed about disguised You can import 400 cigarettes and four bottles
firearms, such as those from Darra Adam Khel, of wine or spirits. Cash amounts exceeding
and penalties are stiff. Drug trafficking incurs US$5000 (or its equivalent in another cur-
severe penalties so don’t even entertain the rency) should be declared.
thought of smuggling drugs out of Pakistan. Chinese authorities have occasionally
seized documents they deem pornographic,
China political or intended for religious purposes.
At entry customs, you fill out a form declaring Books, films, records or tapes might be tem-
money, cameras, radios and so on; you get a porarily seized in order to determine that they
copy, which you must present on departure. do not violate regulations.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 369

DIRECTORY
On departure, you turn in the declara- Be wary of absolutely anyone, local or tour-
tion you filled out when you entered, and ist, who approaches you with drugs for sale.
they may want to see the listed items again. Some dealers are in cahoots with the police,
You’re not allowed to take out antiquities; a and will set you up in exchange for a cut of
purchase receipt can save arguments over an the fine or bribe.
item’s status.
Police
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES If you’re approached by a plain-clothes officer
Sound and air pollution, irksome bureauc- and asked to open your bags (eg for a drugs
racy, exasperating traffic and crowded search on a long-distance train or as you are
public transport are the subcontinent’s nor- leaving the Tribal Areas), be polite but insist on
mal challenges, but daily hassles here are seeing his identification badge first. There are
generally low-key compared with those in con men, but there are also legitimate plain-
neighbouring India. clothes officers. In general, the authentic ones
Read local newspapers and talk to tourism will let you check out their badges for as long as
officials and other travellers to stay abreast of you feel is necessary. They’re also more likely to
the latest potential hazards and scams. Also search slowly and to let you repack one section
check out the Pakistan branch of Lonely of your bag before they move on to the next.
Planet’s Thorn Tree forum (http://thorntree.lonelyplanet
.com), where travellers may post warnings Rockfall
about problems they have encountered. The likelihood of a rockfall on valley footpaths
For important safety advice, see p16. and mountain roads rises sharply in rainy
Women should also read p379. weather. Walkers should simply accept this
and find something else to do. Don’t cross a
Demonstrations rockfall on a road hoping to find transport
Rallies, demonstrations and processions occur on the other side; the whole road is probably
from time to time throughout Pakistan, often littered with rocks, with more to come.
with very short notice, and occasionally have
an anti-Western (especially American) slant. Theft
You’re strongly advised to stay well away from Theft has not, so far, been a major problem for
these for your own safety. During major elec- travellers in Pakistan. However, exercise the
tion campaigns political expression can take same caution you would while travelling else-
a violent turn – if this occurs, steer clear of where; keep your money and passport with
public gatherings and retreat to your hotel you at all times, preferably in a well-concealed
until it’s safe to venture out. moneybelt, and never leave valuables in your
hotel room.
Dogs
Steer clear of guard dogs often kept by herders Violence
in remote areas; eg the Kalasha valleys, Upper In recent times the combination of sectarian
Chitral, Upper Swat, the Upper Kaghan Valley and ethnic tensions, corrupt or incompetent
and Baltistan. If you’re bitten you run the risk law enforcement and a thriving tribal arms
of contracting rabies so be cautious no matter industry has escalated violence in particular
where you are in Pakistan. parts of Pakistan. These hot spots and other
important safety tips are covered in warnings
Drugs at the start of individual regional chapters.
Charas (hashish) is available in many parts
of the country; however, before indulging DISCOUNT CARDS
be warned that drug possession is illegal in Showing your foreign-student ID card means
Pakistan. Apart from opening yourself up to you’re entitled to a sensational 50% discount
being taken advantage of, the penalties for on train travel (see p392) – so it certainly pays
possession, use or smuggling of drugs are to bring a student card if you intend travel-
strictly enforced, with the possibility of long ling by train.
jail sentences and hefty fines. Legislation PYHA hostels (see p365) are part of the
passed in 1994 makes drug smuggling pun- Hostelling International (HI) network; an HI
ishable by death. card entitles you to standard discount rates.
DIRECTORY 370 D I R E C T O R Y • • E m b a s s i e s & C o n s u l a t e s lonelyplanet.com

EMBASSIES & CONSULATES FESTIVALS & EVENTS

Most overseas missions, unless other- You may like to plan your trip around a festi-
wise specified below, are located in the val or two, such as that of the Kalasha people
Diplomatic Enclave (G-5) in Pakistan’s (p231). Be aware that dates can vary annually –
capital, Islamabad. Heightened security confirm these with Pakistani tourist offices at
here means taxis and most private vehicles the time of your visit. For details of regional
cannot enter the enclave. Other than walk- festivals see individual chapters.
ing, you will have to catch a police shuttle
bus from a car park located south of the Late February
enclave. There are two bus routes within the Kitdit (First Festival) The coming of spring. Houses in
enclave, so be sure you get on the correct bus. Gojal are decorated and there are public gatherings with
Embassies are open for visa formalities only food and music.
during certain hours, and they usually close
on Pakistan’s national holidays as well as on Late February–Early March
their own, so it is smart to call ahead before Taghun (Bo Pho) The first (wheat) ploughing or sowing,
heading out to one. called Taghun in Gojal and Bo Pho in Hunza and Nagyr,
Some countries have honorary consulates now only celebrated privately by a few farmers, usually
in other Pakistani cities, but many are of with food and prayers in the field.
limited help and will usually direct you to Basant The convivial kite festival of Punjab – see p110.
Islamabad. For details of consulates other
than those listed here (which are in Islamabad March
unless otherwise indicated), call directory in- Nauroz (Navrus) ‘New Days’ festival held in mid-March,
quiries on %17. See the Information listings an adaptation of pre-Islamic vernal equinox or renewal
in Lahore (p97), Quetta (p144) and Peshawar celebrations. In smaller villages there is visiting, sometimes
(p192) for further details about Afghan and/ with music and dancing.
or Iranian consulates in those cities.
Afghanistan Islamabad (Map pp74-5; %051-2824505; April
House 8, St 90, G-6/3); Karachi (%021-5821261; Plot 26, Baisakhi Sikh festival that attracts pilgrims to the Panja
Block 5, Clifton); Peshawar (Map p192; %091-5285962; Sahib shrine at Hasan Abdal, near Rawalpindi, from around
The Mall, Saddar Bazaar); Quetta (Map p143;%/fax 081- 13–15 April (see p90).
9202549; Prince Rd)
Australia (Map pp74-5; %051-2824345) Late June–Early July
Canada (Map pp74-5; %051-2279103) Chinir (Ginani) First (wheat) harvest, called Chinir in
China (Map pp74-5; %051-2252426) Gojal and Ginani (or Ganoni) in Hunza and Nagyr.
France (Map pp74-5; %051-2011414)
Germany (Map pp74-5; %051-2279430) July
India (Map pp74-5; %051-2206950) Taqt Nashina ‘Taking of the Seat’, celebrated 11 July, the
Iran Islamabad (Map pp74-5; %051-2276270); Karachi day the present Aga Khan assumed leadership of the Ismaili
(%021-5874370; 81 Shahrah-i-Iraq, Clifton); Lahore community. May include parades, games, music, dancing
(Map p98; %042-9283347; 55 Shadman-II, Jail Rd); and fireworks on the mountainsides in Ismaili areas.
Peshawar (Map p191; %091-9285962; Park Ave, Uni- Shandur Cup (Polo Festival) Polo on the Shandur Pass
versity Town); Quetta (Map p143; %081-843527; 2-33 between Gilgit and Chitral, with lively polo, folk dancing
Hali Rd) and high jinks. Takes place 7–9 July.
Japan (Map pp74-5; %051-9072500) Jashan-i-Boroghil Held 15–17 July near the Kurambar
Kazakhstan (Map pp74-5; %051-2262926; House N2, Pass (4358m) on the Afghan border. This is a celebration
St N4, F-8/3, Islamabad) of local Wakhi culture, which includes folk music, local art
New Zealand (see the UK High Commission in Islamabad) and food, buzkashi, polo and yak polo.
UK Islamabad (Map pp74-5; %051-2012000); Karachi (Map
pp162-3; %021-5872461; Shahrah-e-Iran Rd, Clifton) September
USA Islamabad (Map pp74-5; %051-2082000); Karachi Chitral Festival Recently revived after a 25-year
(%021-5685179; 8 Abdullah Haroon Rd); Peshawar absence, this festival is held on 15–21 September and
(Map p192; %091-5279801; 11 Hospital Rd, involves various competitions such as archery, river swim-
Cantonment) ming, rafting, polo and wrestling (including wrestling on a
Uzbekistan (Map pp74-5; %051-2852768; House 2 St 2, log suspended over water). There’s also traditional music,
Kohistan Rd, F-8/3) folk art, drama and poetry.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • F o o d 371

DIRECTORY
October Ramazan (2 September 2008, 22 August 2009, 12 August
The Aga Khan’s first visit to Hunza in 1960 2010, 1 August 2011) The holy month of sunrise-to-sunset
Celebrated by Ismailis in Hunza on 23 October. fasting.
Eid-ul-Fitr (also called Chhoti Eid or Small Eid; 1 October
November 2008, 21 September 2009, 10 September 2010, 31 August
Jashan-i-Gilgit (Northern Areas Independence 2011) Two or three days of joyous celebrations at the end of
Day) Also known as the Gilgit Festival, commemorating Ramazan, with family visits, gifts, banquets, bonuses at work
the 1947 uprising against the Maharaja of Kashmir. The big and donations to society’s less privileged. A public holiday.
event is a week-long polo tournament in Gilgit, starting Eid-ul-Azha (Adha) (also called Bari Eid or Big Eid; 8
on 1 November. December 2008, 28 November 2009, 17 November 2010,
The Aga Khan’s first visit to Gojal in 1987 Cele- 7 November 2011) Feast of Sacrifice, commemorating
brated by Ismailis in Gojal on 18 November. the Prophet Ibrahim’s readiness to obey God even to the
point of sacrificing his son. During the weeks ahead of
December this celebration, markets throng with goats and sheep;
The Aga Khan’s Birthday Celebrated with gatherings those who can afford it slaughter one after early-morning
and speeches on 13 December in Ismaili areas. prayers, sharing the meat with relatives and with the less
privileged. This is also the season for haj (pilgrimage to
Islamic Holy Days Mecca). A public holiday.
The Islamic calendar is lunar, and shorter
than the Western solar calendar, beginning 10 For details of Pakistan’s major urs celebrations
to 11 days earlier in each solar year. Modern (the death anniversaries of certain saints), see
astronomy notwithstanding, religious officials regional chapters. It’s always best to confirm
have formal authority to declare the beginning urs dates with the PTDC, as exact dates of
of each lunar month, based on sightings of the most of these commemorations vary annually
moon’s first crescent. Future holy days can be according to sightings of the new moon.
estimated, but are in doubt by a few days until
the start of that month, so it’s very important FOOD
to note that the dates given here are only ap- Pakistan has a diverse array of places to eat,
proximate. They normally run from sunset from earthy street stalls that whip up home-
to the next sunset. We strongly recommend grown snacks, to fancy multicuisine restaurants
you consult tourist offices for exact dates at with mood music and swish service. For an
the time of your visit, as they may well have overview of what’s on offer, read the Food &
changed from the dates we were given at the Drink chapter (p58) as well as the Eating sec-
time of writing. tions of regional chapters. Some eateries are
As a result of differences in formal moon open throughout the day while others only open
sightings, holy days may be celebrated on dif- for lunch and/or dinner – details are provided
ferent days by different parts of the country in the regional chapters. Note that virtually all
and by Sunnis and Shiites, which has led to restaurants close from sunrise to sunset during
sectarian tension. Ramazan – see the boxed text, p61.
Ashura (19 January 2008, 7 January 2009, 27 December
2010, 16 December 2011) Ninth and 10th day of the month GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
of Muharram. Shiites begin 40 days of mourning the death Homosexuality is against the law in Pakistan,
of Hussain at Karbala, Iraq. In trance-like processions, and penalties are theoretically harsh, includ-
sometimes led by a riderless white horse, men and boys ing jail terms. Although the laws are appar-
pound their chests and chant the names of those killed at ently not strictly enforced, local gays and
Karbala. Some practise zuljinnah, flailing their backs with lesbians keep a very low profile. You may see
blade-tipped chains. Sectarian tension can be high, and Pakistani men holding hands in public but
visitors are not particularly welcome in Shiite villages. this is a common and accepted expression of
Chhelum (26 March 2008, 15 March 2009, 4 March 2010) nonsexual friendship.
Often has similar but smaller processions than those held Like heterosexual foreign couples visiting
during Ashura. Pakistan, gay and lesbian travellers should also
Eid-Milad-un-Nabi (20 March 2008, 9 March 2009, respect local sensibilities by refraining from
26 February 2010, 15 February 2011) Celebration of the public displays of affection.
Prophet’s birthday; some businesses may be closed, as it’s Greater tolerance exists in Chinese cities,
a public holiday. but the countryside remains conservative.
DIRECTORY 372 D I R E C T O R Y • • H o l i d a y s lonelyplanet.com

One relevant website is www.qrd.org/qrd/ your agenda, ask about an amendment or

orgs/TRIKONE/khush, a South Asian–based another policy.
site for the gay, lesbian and bisexual commu- Few medical services in Pakistan will ac-
nity. New sites may emerge over the life of this cept your foreign insurance documents for
book so keep surfing the Web. payment; you’ll usually have to pay on the
spot, collect receipts for everything, save all
HOLIDAYS the paperwork and claim later.
On the days mentioned below (and on cer-
tain Islamic holy days noted on p371), banks, INTERNET ACCESS
businesses and government offices are closed, Internet centres are mushrooming in Pakistani
unless otherwise indicated. cities and towns, although apart from those
found at deluxe hotels, the speed is decidedly
Pakistan patchy. Wherever you travel in Pakistan, be
Pakistan Day 23 March, commemorates the 1940 resolu- aware that connections can be painstakingly
tion by the All India Muslim League to create an independ- slow and the internet places themselves are
ent Islamic state. often cramped, with old machines. The excep-
International Labour Day 1 May. tions are the comfortable business centres in
Bank holiday 1 July, government offices and businesses top-end hotels where rates are about 10 times
remain open. that found on the street.
Independence Day 14 August, the anniversary of the Charges at standard internet outlets are
birth of Pakistan in 1947. mostly between Rs 20 and Rs 30 per hour in
Defence of Pakistan Day 6 September, commemorat- Pakistan and around Y2 to Y6 in Xinjiang. All
ing the India-Pakistan War of 1965. advertised internet facilities in Pakistan State
Iqbal Day 9 November, honouring Urdu poet Allama Oil (PSO) service stations along the KKH
Mohammed Iqbal, who in 1930 first proposed a Muslim that we investigated during research were not
Pakistan. operational. However, internet facilities were
Birthday of Mohammed Ali Jinnah 25 December, good in Gilgit, Skardu and Karimabad, and
founder of Pakistan. internet cafés were common (and the con-
Bank holiday 31 December, government offices and nections fast) in Kashgar.
businesses remain open. If you’re travelling with a notebook or
hand-held computer, be aware that your
China modem may not work once you leave your
The People’s Republic of China (PRC) has home country. The safest option is to buy a
nine national holidays: reputable ‘global’ modem before you leave
New Year’s Day 1 January home, or buy a local PC-card modem if
Spring Festival usually February you’re spending an extended time in one
International Women’s Day 8 March country. For more information on travel-
International Labour Day 1 May ling with a portable computer, click on
Youth Day 4 May www.teleadapt.com.
International Children’s Day 1 June
Birthday of the Chinese Communist Party 1 July LEGAL MATTERS
Anniversary of the Founding of the People’s Corruption and bureaucratic red tape exist
Liberation Army 1 August in Pakistan’s police force, so if you’re in seri-
National Day 1 October ous trouble it’s best to contact your country’s
embassy before resorting to the police. Your
INSURANCE embassy in Islamabad is the best first stop in
A policy for theft, loss, flight cancellation and any emergency. Keep in mind that you are
medical treatment overseas is a very good bound by the laws of Pakistan and it’s highly
idea. A ‘medevac’ clause or policy, covering unlikely that any embassy can get local laws
the costs of being flown to another country or regulations waived on your behalf.
for treatment, is recommended (for more on See p369 for information about dealing
medical evacuation see p395). with potentially bogus police.
Some policies exclude ‘dangerous ac- Drug possession is illegal in Pakistan, and
tivities’, which can include white-water penalties for possession, use or smuggling
rafting or even trekking. If these are on are strictly enforced (see p369).
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • M a p s 373

DIRECTORY
Homosexuality is illegal in Pakistan (see Generically, Chinese money is called ren-
p371 for more information). minbi (RMB) or ‘people’s money’. The formal
unit is the yuan (Y), divided into 10 jiao or
MAPS 100 fen. But when talking prices, Chinese use
One of the most reputable country maps ‘counting words’: yuan is called kuai (Uyghurs
is Pakistan 1:1,500,000 published by Nelles say koi) and jiao is called mao (Uyghurs say
Verlag, which probably has the best coverage mo); fen is pronounced ‘fun’. Renminbi comes
of the KKH. It’s available at good city book- in paper notes of Y100, Y50, Y20, Y10, Y5, Y2
shops, including those in some top-end hotels. and Y1, and coins of Y1, five jiao, one jiao
The Survey of Pakistan sells regional and town and five fen.
maps from its office in Faizabad (see p73) or at The Pakistani rupee is a convertible cur-
bookshops in other cities. The information in rency and there’s little difference between offi-
some of these maps may be quite out of date cial and black-market rates. Kashgar’s Uyghur
and of limited practical use. black-marketeers buy Western banknotes at
Town and city maps from PTDC offices rates not much different from the banks.
are usually just overviews (sometimes not up There’s little to be gained if you use them and
to date), but can still be reasonably useful for always a risk of being short-changed.
general orientation. The rupee and renminbi fluctuate daily
Lion Art Press publishes decent maps of against major currencies; for exchange rates
various cities and regions including Lahore, see the inside front cover of this book.
Balochistan and Sindh (available at good
bookshops). Local maps and where to buy ATMs
them are mentioned in the regional chapters Automatic teller machines (ATMs; most 24
of this book. hours) can be found in hubs such as Lahore,
It’s imperative to possess good topo- Islamabad, Karachi and Quetta, and at a grow-
graphic maps for trekking and to know how ing number of smaller centres such as Multan
to use the maps. For advice on trekking maps and Bahawalpur. Major banks will accept
see p336. Cirrus, Maestro, MasterCard and Visa (but
not always all cards). However, you should
MONEY definitely not rely on ATMs as your sole
The unit of Pakistani money is the rupee (Rs), source of cash, especially if you plan to travel
divided into 100 paisa. Paper notes come in beyond the big cities. Another good reason
denominations of Rs 5000, Rs 1000, Rs 500, Rs to have a cash backup is in case ATMs are
100, Rs 50, Rs 20 and Rs 10, and there are Rs out of order or if you break or lose your card.
5, Rs 2 and Rs 1 coins. Very worn or tattered Note that some ATMs in smaller towns don’t
notes or those with pen scribbles on them accept foreign cards. Check with your bank
may sometimes be refused so it’s best not to before departing to confirm that your card
accept them in the first place. The Rs 5000, Rs can access international banking networks.
1000 and Rs 500 notes can be a headache (few Always keep the emergency lost-and-stolen
people seem to have change handy), so ask for numbers for your credit cards in a safe place,
smaller notes when you buy your rupees. separate from your plastic.

TIPPING & BAKSHEESH

In the more upmarket restaurants, where a service fee may have been added to your bill, tipping
is optional. Where a fee has not been added, a tip of around 5% to 10% is the norm, with the
amount given depending on how happy you are with the food and service. Porters should be
tipped – the amount varies depending on how much baggage they carry; usually around Rs 50
at airports. Tipping is not mandatory for taxi and autorickshaw drivers.
Baksheesh is a way of life in the subcontinent. It isn’t just a hand-out or bribe, but a gratuity
for almost any service rendered. Staff who may go beyond their normal duties – opening a closed
gate for you, getting a bigwig’s signature, repairing a broken luggage zip etc – usually expect
something in return. Apart from being considered a tip, baksheesh is also defined as alms for
beggars. Giving to the less privileged is a tenet of the Islamic code.
DIRECTORY 374 D I R E C T O R Y • • M o n e y lonelyplanet.com

Cash Exchanging Money

It’s unwise to carry wads of money in your Most major foreign currencies can be ex-
wallet, or to carry your wallet in your back changed in the larger cities and towns of
pocket. Similarly, you’re more prone to being Pakistan. US dollars are the most widely
robbed if you carry valuables in a shoulder accepted currency, followed by UK pounds
bag, which can easily be snatched. Keep a and euros. It’s advisable to compare rates
small cash stash for the day in a handy but between banks and private moneychangers
concealed place (eg in an inner pocket) and as they can vary. You usually have to present
the bulk of your resources more deeply hid- your passport whenever you change money,
den. A well-concealed moneybelt is one of so carry it along. Always count notes before
the safest ways of carrying money as well leaving the bank and return any ripped ones
as important documents such as your pass- as these can be difficult to get rid of. Note
port. It’s also a good idea to have emergency that some travellers have reported difficulty
cash (at least US$100 in small denomina- in changing worn foreign notes, especially
tions), stashed away from your main hoard, US dollars.
as a backup. Official money-exchange receipts (you
Although it’s obviously preferable not to may have to ask for these) come in handy
deplete all your funds while on the road, if if you wish to convert any unspent Pakistani
you do, fast international money transfers rupees into foreign currency before leaving
are possible (for a charge) at Western Union the country. Pakistani rupees can be re-
(www.westernunion.com), which operates in vari- converted into major currencies at banks
ous Pakistani cities and towns – see regional located at the international airports (US
chapters for details. dollars are mostly given). The total of the
receipts should be at least the amount you
Credit Cards want to reconvert. Some banks and private
Credit cards are accepted at all top-end hotels moneychangers in the larger cities, such
and at some midrange ones. It’s not an option as Islamabad, will also change rupees back
at 99% of budget hotels. Only the more up- into foreign currency (sometimes this is
market restaurants and shops will take them done without asking for money-exchange
(but not necessarily those in smaller towns), receipts).
while most airline offices should accept If you plan to venture off the beaten
credit-card payments. Visa and MasterCard track you’re strongly advised to carry ad-
are the most widely accepted cards. Cash ad- equate rupees, as money-exchange facilities
vances on major credit cards can be made at may be few and far between. See regional
some banks (although not always at those in chapters for further details about the
smaller towns). money-changing situation.

HAGGLING
Before any shopping spree it’s a good idea to casually browse through a few shops, just to get
a feel for prices and what’s on offer. Many shops (but not fixed-price emporiums and upmarket
stores) are open to bargaining. Don’t be afraid to haggle; as long as you don’t get obsessed with
driving a price into the ground, it’s taken in good spirit. Always remember how much a rupee is
worth in your home currency to put things in perspective. If you feel you are being unreasonably
overcharged, simply look elsewhere.
The key is to start with a bit of small talk – don’t show too much interest in the item you’re
dying to have. Casually ask the vendor’s price for various items, including your favourite. Roll
your eyes, shake your head and sigh deeply a few times before taking the plunge by offering
about half the asking price (this is usually completely unacceptable to the vendor but it works
as a good starting point to haggle for a happy compromise). The shopkeeper will probably look
frightfully aghast, insist that your offer is way below the cost price and then, with deliberate
reluctance, inevitably proceed to make you another offer. You’re now on the road to negotia-
tion. A tip: many ‘final prices’ tumble if you proceed to leave the shop, casually saying that you’ll
‘think about it’.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • P h o t o g r a p h y 375

DIRECTORY
Travellers Cheques Film & Processing
Travellers cheques don’t seem to be as widely International-brand colour print film and
accepted as major foreign currency notes, processing are available in all cities and
especially beyond the larger cities. They most of the larger towns. Colour slide film
can even present a bit of a hassle at big city is usually available in larger cities, but only
banks, with branches often redirecting cus- a few outlets in major centres can actually
tomers to their head office. process it.
Banks mainly accept major brand trav- Always check use-by dates and ensure you
ellers cheques, with US cheques most are handed a sealed packet of film that has
widely accepted. Note that many banks not been sitting in a glass cabinet exposed to
demand to see original purchase receipts sunshine for the last few months: heat and
for your cheques before agreeing to change humidity can play havoc with film even if it
them, so keep these handy. Unless you’re isn’t past the use-by date. It’s best to only buy
cashing their brand of travellers cheques, film from reputable shops – and preferably
foreign banks usually nail you with film that has been refrigerated.
high commissions.
You will need to have your travel- Restrictions & Etiquette
lers cheque purchase receipts and the lost Prohibited subjects include military sites, air-
cheques’ serial numbers to replace lost or ports, train stations and bridges. Some places
stolen cheques – always carry the receipts, of worship may not allow photography – if
serial numbers and other important details you are unsure, ask. To some Muslims, es-
in a separate (safe) place from the cheques. pecially in rural areas, it’s an insult to photo-
Call directory inquiries on %17 to find graph a woman without permission, and if a
the Amex, Citibank or other relevant office male family member is nearby it can create a
nearest to you. tense situation. This may even apply if you’re
shooting a mountain and a woman happens to
be in a field in the foreground. It’s advisable to
CHINA
seek permission if you think there potentially
You can cash cheques at the larger banks; could be a problem. Women photographers
eg Bank of China or CITIC Industrial are often permitted more access than men if
Bank. Although most hotels in China will they’ve established some rapport.
cash cheques for guests, this cannot be People you take photos of in Pakistan may
counted on in Kashgar. The exchange rate request a copy and it’s kind to do so. If you
for cheques is generally higher (around 2%) don’t intend to send the photo, it’s better not
than cash. to promise that you will in the first place.

PHOTOGRAPHY POST
For top tips and techniques on travel pho- International post is generally reliable but has
tography, have a look at Lonely Planet’s occasionally been known to take up to one
travel photography guides, including Travel month to arrive at its destination, especially
Photography, Landscape Travel Photography when sent from remote places. To eliminate
and People Travel Photography. the risk of stamp theft, it’s best to have letters
franked in front of you.
Digital For packages (other than printed mat-
Memory cards for digital cameras are avail- ter) there’s usually a man sitting outside big
able from photographic shops in most large post offices who’ll sew up parcels in cheap
cities. Be aware that the quality of memory linen, on the spot, for a nominal fee. The
cards is variable – some do not carry the post office will have the necessary customs
advertised amount of data. It’s a good idea declaration forms.
to regularly back up your memory card to Books or printed matter can be sent by
CD (many internet cafés offer this service bookpost, which is cheaper than parcel post,
at a nominal charge). A number of photo- but don’t forget to write clearly ‘Printed
graphic stores will make prints from digital Material Only’ on the cover. In addition,
photographs for approximately the standard you have to ensure the package can be
print-and-processing charge. opened for inspection, or that it is wrapped
DIRECTORY 376 D I R E C T O R Y • • S h o p p i n g lonelyplanet.com

with the two ends exposed so the contents outskirts of Peshawar and at Landi Kotal on
are visible. the Khyber Pass, although you’re more likely
To give an idea of the cost of sending par- to find electronic items and cosmetics than
cels by air: to Australia is Rs 890 per kilogram fine traditional shawls or walnut furniture.
then Rs 535 for every additional kilo; to the Wherever you go in Pakistan you’ll almost
UK is Rs 1000 per kilogram then Rs 555 for always find dealers in Persian-style pile rugs
every additional kilo; and for France it’s Rs and kilims (flat-weave tribal carpets). As
1065 per kilogram then Rs 310 for each addi- well as the local products, many wonderful
tional kilogram. There’s also an urgent service old pieces can be found from Afghanistan,
that costs considerably more. Couriers in the Iran, China and Central Asia. Peshawar and
larger cities, such as DHL, are more expensive Quetta are some of the best places to buy
but delivery is quicker (around three days). good-value carpets in Pakistan. In Kashgar
For updates on postal information, click on you can find Central Asian and Chinese rugs
Pakistan Post (www.pakpost.gov.pk). in abundance.
Keep your eyes peeled for sublime textile
Poste Restante and embroidery work in a stunning range
International poste restante services are fairly of colours and designs that differ from re-
dependable. Ask senders to address letters gion to region. Some incorporate exquisite
to you with your surname in capital letters mirrorwork on caps, shawls and other attire.
and underlined, followed by Poste Restante, Bold block-print and tie-dye textiles are also
GPO, and the address of the city or town. available. Shawls are a particularly popular
Many ‘lost’ letters are simply misfiled under buy and make sensational gifts – they’re
given (first) names, so always check under reasonably light to carry (depending on
both your names. Ask senders to provide a the fabric) and can also be innovatively
return address, just in case you don’t col- used as wall hangings, curtains and throws
lect your mail. You’ll probably be asked to over furniture.
present your passport before claiming letters Other tempting items for sale include pot-
from post restante counters. tery, leatherware (including some gorgeous
If you’re getting a parcel posted to you traditional footwear and contemporary
from overseas, make sure you ask the sender jackets), woodwork and metalwork (the best
to clearly write ‘Gift Parcel’ on the package/ pieces are usually found in the bazaars of a
envelope or else you’ll have to pay tax before city’s or town’s old quarters).
claiming it. It’s best to have any parcels sent Bazaars are a great place to hunt down
to you by registered post. good-value shalwar kameez, the traditional
long-tunic-and-trouser combinations worn
SHOPPING by men and women. You can buy them off
Although Pakistan doesn’t match India on the shelf or have one tailor-made in just a
the handicraft front, you can still find some few days. Another popular buy is the chador
fascinating pieces in the country’s many vi- (a lightweight woollen blanket), which comes
brant bazaars and city emporiums. Read indi- in handy as a shawl, blanket, pillow or even
vidual chapters for regional shopping details. curtain. Resham (silk) can be a bargain in the
The top-end hotels often sell high-quality bazaars of the NA.
handicrafts, but they don’t come cheap. Jewellery is abundant in Pakistan and ranges
Particularly recommended bazaars in- from chunky tribal-influenced silver pieces to
clude those in Peshawar (Old City), Lahore intricately crafted gold items and enamelled
(Anarkali), Rawalpindi (Rajah), Karachi jewellery. In the more touristy areas, be careful
(Empress Market) and of course Kashgar’s of private dealers in gemstones and jewellery,
Sunday Market. In addition to the famous as well as artefacts such as coins; many are fake
Sunday Market, Kashgar has the atmospheric and/or ridiculously overpriced.
Khazkhan Bazaar where every day you can See p367 for information about exporting
buy Aladdin lamps, semiprecious stones, antiquities.
Central Asian carpets and much, much
more. Smaller bazaars, found throughout SOLO TRAVELLERS
the country, are also worth an unhurried Pakistan attracts a considerable number of
wander. There are smugglers’ bazaars on the solo visitors. If you’d like to occasionally break
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • Te l e p h o n e 377

DIRECTORY
the solo creed and hang out with other trav- range ones) incur a three-minute minimum
ellers, places such as along the KKH, in the for interstate and/or international calls.
Kalasha valleys, and Lahore and Peshawar For mobile phone users, competitively
are especially good. The popular traveller priced Pakistani prepaid SIM cards are widely
hotels can be useful spots to find people to available, with ‘starter pack’ offers from as
travel with, swap stories and gather handy little as Rs 200.
up-to-the-minute travel tips. Those keen To make a call out of Pakistan or China,
to hook up with others can also try adver- the international access code is 00. To call in
tising on Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum from abroad, dial your country’s international
(http://thorntree. lonelyplanet.com). access code, the country code for Pakistan (92)
Personal security worries (a predomi- or China (86), the area code (minus the first
nant concern of many first-time travellers to zero) and the local number.
Pakistan) will dissipate swiftly as you meet
and talk to the locals. Admittedly this is often Phonecards
easier for men in many areas, especially off the Phonecards are widely available, reliable and
beaten track. For more information specific easy to use, but not all PCO booths (or top-
to women travellers see p379. end hotels) will let you use them (or may
If you’re looking to cut costs, you’ll save charge a fee for doing so). You can buy phone-
money if you share taxis, tours and accommo- cards from most supermarkets, PCO booths
dation. In terms of accommodation, single- and general stores; they usually come in Rs
room rates are often not much lower than rates 150, Rs 250, Rs 500 and Rs 1000 denomina-
for a double; quite a few midrange and top-end tions. Many cards have an expiry date that
establishments don’t even have single tariffs, in- commences from the date of first use (most
stead charging a flat double rate (try to bargain are valid for three months thereafter).
this down by insisting that as you’re by your-
self, you should be charged accordingly). There TIME
is usually a discounted single price in budget Pakistan is covered by a single time zone
hotels, many of which also have dormitories (GMT plus five hours). All of China officially
where you pay on an economical per-bed basis. runs on Beijing time (GMT plus eight hours),
This can be a substantial saving but the state though out in Kashgar and Tashkurgan,
of the bedding and general cleanliness of some 3500km away, people set their clocks and
rock-bottom places can be challenging for all watches on (unofficial) ‘Xinjiang time’, two
but the most pecuniarily minded. Some lodg- hours earlier. But most Chinese bureaucrats
ings have books where guests can write down think in Beijing time, so you must keep track
their experiences, which can be informative and of both. Neither China nor Pakistan has
entertaining. But no matter how friendly and Daylight Savings Time (DST).
safe a place may appear on the surface, there See the world time zones map, p430–1.
may be locals or fellow tourists who view solo
travellers as an easy target for theft etc. There’s TOILETS
no need to be paranoid but, like anywhere else Decent public toilets are few and far between
in the world, it’s wise to never completely drop in Pakistan and Xinjiang – you’re most likely
your guard in unfamiliar surroundings. to find them at major tourist sites (museums
etc) and at mid- and upper-range restaurants.
TELEPHONE If you’re desperate, you can discreetly pop
STD (interstate) calls in Pakistan are half- into the sparkling-clean restrooms found in
price after 6pm and even cheaper (a quarter the foyer area of top-end hotels.
of the normal price) after 9.30pm. There are All top-end and most midrange hotels have
no cheap times for international calls. Most sit-down flush toilets with toilet paper sup-
of Pakistan has International Direct Dialling plied. Some midrange and many budget hotels
(IDD) so international calls are delightfully have a choice of squat or sit-down toilets.
quick and charges are usually by the minute. At the real rock-bottom places (especially in
Calls can be made from government exchanges remote villages) you often find bucket-flushed
or at one of the numerous privately run public squats. Toilet paper (and soap) is rarely pro-
call offices (PCOs). Many operate round-the- vided at budget places. Some budget hotels
clock. Some hotels (predominantly upper- have one or two rooms with sit-down toilets
DIRECTORY 378 D I R E C T O R Y • • T o u r i s t I n f o r m a t i o n lonelyplanet.com

but these are sometimes missing the actual stacles. In addition, hiring a private car with
seat. In this case it’s usually better to opt for driver will make moving around a great deal
a room with a squat toilet, as it’s a more com- easier. Always try to book ground-floor hotel
fortable and hygienic option. rooms, and if you use crutches, bring along
When it comes to toilet etiquette, it’s cus- spare rubber caps for the tips as they can
tomary to use your left hand and water, not wear down quickly.
toilet paper. Hence the strategically placed Recommended organisations that may
tap and small plastic jug available in most proffer further advice include the Royal
budget and midrange hotel and restaurant Association for Disability & Rehabilitation (RADAR;
bathrooms. If you can’t get used to the local %020-7250 3222; www.radar.org.uk; 12 City Forum, 250
method bring your own toilet paper, which is City Rd, London EC1V 8AF, UK) and Mobility International
widely available. USA (MIUSA; %541-3431284; www.miusa.org; Suite 343,
132 E, Broadway, Eugene, OR 97401, USA). There are
TOURIST INFORMATION also some commendable websites such as
Pakistan www.access-able.com.
Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC;
www.tourism.gov.pk) operates a string of hotels VISAS
and maintains tourist information centres You must obtain a visa before arriving in
in major cities and towns, many of which are either Pakistan or China.
very helpful with disseminating information, Be aware that in Pakistan, police jurisdic-
booking accommodation, arranging car hire tions in border areas and other sensitive spots –
and more. Others are of limited assistance. eg Cholistan, the Tribal Areas of the NWFP,
Details of PTDC offices are presented in the Chitral, Swat Kohistan and Azad Jammu &
Information sections of relevant regional Kashmir – all have additional registration and
chapters, along with any details of provincial permit regulations; see the regional chapters
tourist information departments. for details. No special permits are needed for
continuing along the KKH to Tashkurgan
China and Kashgar. For information about permit
China International Travel Service (CITS; Beijing %010- requirements for further travel in China see
66011122; 103 Fuxing Mennei; Kashgar %0998-2825390; 2nd Lonely Planet’s China guide.
fl, 93 Seman Lu, beside Chini Bagh Hotel), called CITS Registration (at a Foreigners’ Registration
lüxingshe in Chinese, is the original state Office, or FRO; see regional chapters for ad-
travel bureau for non-Chinese group tourists. dresses) in Pakistan currently only applies
In Kashgar it serves mainly as a travel agency to foreigners of Indian descent and nation-
for booking tours but some staff can be very als of 16 countries. These 16 countries are
helpful with general inquiries. Algeria, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Iraq,
Israel, Libya, Nigeria, Palestinian Territories,
TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES Serbia, Somalia, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Tanzania,
Travel in Pakistan can present some verita- Uganda and Yemen. If you stay in the NA for
ble challenges for a physically handicapped more than 10 days you’re supposed to register
person. The rigours of bus and train travel, at an FRO (locations are mentioned in the
the crush of humanity in urban centres and Karakoram Highway chapter). If you’re not
the lack of decent (where they exist) foot- staying at a hotel anywhere in the country (eg
paths in many places can pose real hazards. you’re staying at a private residence instead),
On top of that, there are only a sprinkling it’s not a bad idea to register so your wherea-
of wheelchair-accessible hotels (mostly bouts are on record.
top end), restaurants, buildings, transport
and other facilities. Many buildings have Pakistan
steep staircases and very few have ramps. Everybody needs a visa to enter Pakistan. The
However, travel in Pakistan is certainly pos- cost varies depending on your nationality, the
sible for those with an iron will, plenty of type of visa and possibly where you apply.
stamina and the willingness to constantly Nationals of most countries are issued a
adapt to whatever hurdle presents itself. single-entry tourist visa that enables entry up
Travelling with an able-bodied companion to six months from the date of issue, but you
can help immensely to overcome these ob- can only actually stay for a maximum of three
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • V o l u n t e e r i n g 379

DIRECTORY
months from the date of entry. This visa costs Visas are fairly easy to get from PRC em-
A$70 for Australians and UK£50 for British bassies or consulates including the embassy
citizens. Double and multiple-entry tourist in Pakistan. Fees depend on nationality and
visas may also be possible – inquire with the where you apply; pricier multiple-entry and
Pakistan mission in your home country. long-stay visas are available. In your applica-
Tourist visas in most countries should be tion you must identify entry/exit points, and
applied for about two (three to be safe) weeks advise of your itinerary and means of trans-
in advance of the intended travelling date, but port, although you can deviate from these as
it pays to double-check in case a longer time much as you like.
is recommended by your country’s Pakistani
embassy. Note that visas for journalists may VISA EXTENSIONS OR REPLACEMENTS
take more time to process. For details about With a China visa you can get at least one 15-
business visas and other possible visa op- day extension after arrival, at the Foreign Affairs
tions inquire at the Pakistan embassy in your section of any Public Security Bureau (PSB). In
home country. Kashgar, this office (called the Exit & Entry
A number of travellers have reported that Administration Service) is on Yunmulakexia
‘Not Valid for Cantt Area’ (or something Lu. Price depends on nationality.
similar) was stamped next to their Pakistani
visa, which resulted in them being denied ac- VOLUNTEERING
commodation in certain parts of some cities If you are keen to lend a hand as a volunteer,
(eg some hotels in Rawalpindi have refused the organisation Ethical Volunteering (www.ethical
to accept tourists if their passport had this volunteering.org) offers some excellent guidelines
stamp). We were told by a Pakistan mission for selecting an ethical agency. Keep in mind
that this stamp is supposed to appear next to that charities and NGOs usually prefer vol-
all tourist visas (though this doesn’t always unteers who apply in advance and are pre-
seem to be the case in reality) and if applicants pared to commit for more than just a couple
didn’t want the stamp they should request this of weeks.
on their visa application form (omission is not Surf the Web for current volunteering
guaranteed, however). possibilities in Pakistan – good places to
start include:
VISA EXTENSIONS Action Without Borders (www.idealist.org)
Three-month visa extensions are possible in Co-ordinating Committee for International
Pakistan itself and cost about the same as in Voluntary Service (CCIVS; www.unesco.org/ccivs)
your home country (usually payable in the Global Volunteers (www.globalvolunteers.org)
rupee equivalent). For details (including which Voluntary Service Overseas (VSO; www.vso.org.uk)
Pakistani cities can issue visa extensions) Working Abroad (www.workingabroad.com)
contact the Regional Passport Office (Map ppp74-5; World Volunteer Web (www.worldvolunteerweb.org)
%051-9260355; Peshawar Chowk G-8/1, Peshawar Mor, INT Worldwide Volunteering (www.worldwidevolunteering
Centre) in Islamabad. Passports are accepted .org.uk)
for processing from 2pm to 3pm Monday to World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF; www.wwfpak.org)
Thursday and Saturday, and 11am to 11.40am
on Friday. They’re available for collection WOMEN TRAVELLERS
from 9am to noon Monday to Thursday and Over recent years, Pakistan has been attract-
Saturday, and 9am to 11am on Friday. ing an escalating number of female travellers,
including those doing it solo. Generally speak-
China ing, the country is perfectly safe for women
Everyone needs a visa to enter the PRC; you and the only thing you’re likely to encounter
cannot get one at the border with Pakistan. A is incessant staring. If you don’t think you’re
normal tourist (‘L’) visa allows you to enter cut out for the constant scrutiny then you may
China up to three months from the date of feel more at ease travelling with company.
issue, and stay for 30 days from the date of It’s important to remember that in con-
entry. With it you can visit any open city or servative Muslim families the female members
region, and while in China you can extend usually stay out of sight of other men, and this
your visa and get travel permits for some is one reason why foreign women, especially
restricted areas. those on their own, are largely regarded as an
DIRECTORY 380 D I R E C T O R Y • • W o m e n T r a v e l l e r s lonelyplanet.com

oddity and may be viewed with a mixture of dentally’ bumped into or followed in crowded
curiosity, astonishment and disdain. areas. A woman travelling with a male partner
The more conservative Muslim men mini- is less likely to encounter these things but is
mise direct contact with women beyond their not immune from them. Respect for local
immediate family, especially out of the major culture, common sense and appropriate dress
cities. So if you’re travelling with a male com- (see opposite) play a paramount role in stay-
panion, any questions you ask may well be ing safe. General safety tips include making
answered to him – not out of contempt but as it a point to arrive in towns before dark and,
a mark of respect. On the flip side, you’ll prob- as elsewhere in the world, to avoid walking
ably also come across local men who are more alone in isolated areas or late at night. Remote
than happy to interact with a foreign woman, regions and some tribal areas of Pakistan are
with no other motive than to be helpful and best explored with a male companion, and
hospitable; some – especially in the tourist only if those areas are deemed safe by local
trade – do so as a matter of course. authorities. Women are advised against trek-
More-liberal attitudes abound in the larger king alone (see Women Trekkers, p339).
centres such as Karachi and Lahore, although Getting ogled at is something you’ll just
this doesn’t give you the green light to traipse have to get used to. It’s best to avoid returning
around in shorts and singlet tops. In the tradi- male stares as this may be considered a come-
tionally conservative rural, non-Ismaili areas, on; dark glasses can help. If you’re travelling
most women feel more comfortable travelling with a male partner, a number of locals will
with others. In these conservative regions, assume he is your husband and may be disap-
extra-careful attention should be paid to dress proving if you state otherwise. To avoid a sour
code – for instance, it may be offensive in reception, sometimes it’s more prudent not to
some areas not to cover your head. A good reveal that you’re not married.
way of ascertaining when exactly head cover is Some solo female travellers ward off un-
required is if you see few (if any) local women wanted male company by wearing a pseudo
in the public domain. The key is always to wedding ring and announcing early in the
have a scarf handy – no matter where you are – conversation that they are married or engaged
and to use it whenever in doubt. (regardless of whether they actually are or not).
Being a woman has some glowing ad- This can be an effective way of keeping conver-
vantages. Women can usually queue-jump sations ‘lust-free’. If you get the feeling that he’s
without consequence, avail of ladies-only com- still encroaching on your space, a firm request
partments on trains and sit in ‘family’ sections to stay away is usually enough to take control of
of restaurants. Unaccompanied women are the situation, particularly if it’s loud enough to
expected to sit at the front of a bus; men will catch the attention of passers-by. Alternatively,
normally vacate these seats for women and the silent treatment (not responding to ques-
you’re perfectly justified to kick up a fuss if tions at all) can be a remarkably good way of
they don’t. The bad news is that if these seats getting rid of unwanted male company.
are already full of women, the bus may pos- Women travellers should take heart that
sibly not even stop for you. If you’re travel- the risks of travelling in Pakistan are, so far,
ling with a man, he might be allowed up front less than in many other countries, including
too, provided he avoids sitting next to a local the West. Essentially, it’s a matter of striking
woman. When invited to a family home, male a balance in the way you interact with men
guests are generally restricted to a certain area so that your interest in his job, village, family
(such as the lounge) whereas women get to etc isn’t misinterpreted. Ways of achieving
join female family members and children in this include adhering to the local practice of
the vibrant ‘heart’ of the household. not shaking hands or making any other body
contact with a new male friend, and keeping
Staying Safe direct eye contact to a minimum. Similarly,
Harassment towards foreign female travellers getting involved in inane conversations can
in Pakistan is rare – partly attributable to the sometimes be misconstrued as a sign of
tenets of Islam regarding women and visitors – sexual interest.
but it does occasionally happen. There have Ultimately, you’re going to have to trust
been a few reports of groping, lewd comments, your own judgment and instincts, as there isn’t
provocative gestures, jeering and getting ‘acci- a blanket rule that applies to one and all.
lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • W o m e n T r a v e l l e r s 381

DIRECTORY
What to Wear when you need to cover your head and chest
You should always bear in mind that Pakistan (eg at a mosque, in a crowded bazaar or in
is, on the whole, a conservative society and conservative company). Not only is the shal-
you’re going to win much more respect (and war kameez considered as respectable attire,
deflect potential harassment) if you act and it’s also comfortable and practical and comes
dress appropriately. The less flesh you flash, in a glorious range of attractive fabrics and
the better. Steer clear of body-hugging cloth- designs to suit all budgets. A cotton shalwar
ing, sleeveless tops, shorts, miniskirts, see- kameez is surprisingly cool in hot weather and
through garments and, of course, the bra-less also offers excellent sun protection.
look. Baggy clothing is the way to go, as it Sunbaking in public view (apart from at
hides the shape of your body. If you’ve only hotel swimming pools) is not on and neither
got your hands, feet and head in view then is strutting around half-dressed on hotel bal-
you’re on the right track. conies or other areas in view of locals.
Wearing local dress, the shalwar kameez Although there are no sure-fire ways of
(traditional dresslike tunic and trouser combi- shielding yourself from sexual harassment,
nation) makes a very positive impression and hopefully the advice we have proffered here
is highly recommended. The dupatta (long will help make your journey through Pakistan
scarf) that is part of this outfit comes in handy memorable for all the right reasons.
 382

Transport
AIR
CONTENTS Airports & Airlines
A number of major airlines serve Karachi,
Getting There & Away 382
Islamabad and Lahore. A few (from the
Entering the Countries 382
Middle East) fly to regional destinations such
Air 382
as Peshawar and Quetta.
Land 385
International airports:
Sea 388
TRANSPORT

Allama Iqbal International Airport Lahore (LHE;

Getting Around 388
Air 388
%042-9211604; www.lahoreairport.com.pk)
Islamabad International Airport (ISB; %051-
Bicycle 389
9280300; www.islamabadairport.com.pk)
Bus & Minibus 389
Jinnah International Karachi (KHI; %021-9248792;
Car & Motorcycle 390
www.karachiairport.com.pk)
Hitching 391
Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) is the
Local Transport 391
national carrier. Its safety record isn’t notably
Train 391
worse than other subcontinent-based airlines
Along the KKH 392
and crash data should be read with an un-
Bicycle 392
derstanding of the difficult mountain terrain
Bus & Minibus 393
where PIA is the sole operator. However, con-
Car & Motorcycle 393
cerns about the safety of its ageing fleet led the
Moving on from Kashgar 393
European Union to bar the majority of PIA’s
fleet from flying in its airspace in early 2007.
GETTING THERE & AWAY Air Blue and Shaheen Air International are
private Pakistani airlines operating on popular
Flights, tours and rail tickets can be domestic routes and short-hop flights to cities
booked online at www.lonelyplanet in the Middle East. A third private airline,
.com/travel_services. Aero Asia, had its licence suspended in 2007
for failing to meet safety standards. If it re-
ENTERING THE COUNTRIES emerges it will almost certainly be under a
Entering Pakistan or China by either land different brand.
or air is relatively straightforward, with Numerous international airlines list
simple immigration and customs forms Pakistan as a destination and have offices
to fill out. However, everyone needs a visa in Pakistan; however, services are routinely
to enter Pakistan or China, and you must cancelled/reinstated, so it’s definitely best to
obtain a visa before arriving. See p378 for check out the latest details on the internet or
more information. with your travel agent. The airlines listed here
have offices in Pakistan, mainly in Karachi
(%021) or Lahore (%042).
THINGS CHANGE… Air Blue (ED/ABQ; %111-247258; www.airblue.com)
The information in this chapter is particu- Hub: Jinnah International Karachi.
larly vulnerable to change. Check directly Air China (CA/CCA; %021-4542559; www.airchina.com
with the airline or a travel agency to make .cn) Hub: Beijing Airport.
sure you understand how a fare (and ticket Ariana Afghan Airlines (FG/AFG; www.flyariana.com)
you may buy) works and be aware of the Hub: Kabul Airport.
security requirements for international British Airways (BA/BAW; %042-6300701;
travel. Shop carefully. The details given in www.britishairways.com) Hub: Heathrow Airport,
this chapter should be regarded as point- London.
ers and are not a substitute for your own Cathay Pacific Airways (CX/CPA; %042-6300701;
careful, up-to-date research. www.cathaypacific.com) Hub: Hong Kong International
Airport.
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r 383

China Southern Airlines (CZ/CSN; www.csair.com/en/) charged by the airlines. A few reliable agencies
Hub: Bayun International Airport, Guangzhou. are listed in this book’s regional chapters.
Emirates (EK/UAE; %021-5684500; www.emirates If you buy a non-PIA international ticket in
.com) Hub: Dubai International Airport. Pakistan, you can pay with credit card or cash.
Gulf Air (GF/GFA; %021-5682265; www.gulfairco.com) If you pay in cash rupees you must prove they
Hub: Bahrain International Airport. were bought with foreign currency by furnish-
Indian Airlines (IC/IAC; %042-6360014; www.indian ing foreign-exchange receipts totalling the
-airlines.nic.in) Hub: Indira Gandhi International Airport, ticket price. You don’t get the receipts back.
New Delhi. Domestic and PIA international tickets don’t
Iran Air (IR/IRA; %021-516293; www.iranair.com) Hub: require receipts.
Tehran International Airport. International tickets bought in Pakistan
Kuwait Airways (KU/KAC; %021-5685754; www attract a foreign-travel tax and an interna-
.kuwait-airways.com) Hub: Kuwait International Airport. tional departure tax, plus a few smaller taxes.

TRANSPORT
Malaysia Airlines (MH/MAS; %021-5682629; www Always ask if these are included in any fare
.malaysiaairlines.com) Hub: Kuala Lumpur Airport. you’re quoted.
Pakistan International Airlines (PK/PIA; %021- After you’ve bought your ticket, it doesn’t
45794769; www.piac.com.pk) Hub: Jinnah International hurt to call the airline yourself and confirm
Karachi. that you’re booked on the flight.
Qatar Airways (QR/QTR; %111-310310; www.qatar
airways.com) Hub: Doha International Airport. Australia & New Zealand
Saudi Arabian Airlines (SV/SVA; %021-568213; www Flights from Auckland, Brisbane, Melbourne
.saudiairlines.com) Hub: Ar-Riyadh International Airport. and Sydney connect with PIA, Singapore
Shaheen Air International (NL/SAI; %111-808080; Airlines, Thai Airways or Malaysian Airlines
www.shaheenair.aero) Hub: Karachi International Airport. in Bangkok, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.
Singapore Airlines (SQ/SIA; %042-6307418; www Return fares start at A$2300 to/from
.singaporeair.com) Hub: Changi International Airport, Islamabad/Lahore. Flying to Kashgar to start
Singapore. the Karakoram Highway (KKH) may involve
Thai Airways (TG/THA; %021-5660163; www.thaiair up to four connecting flights and add con-
.com) Hub: Bangkok Airport. siderably to the cost. For online bookings,
try www.travel.com.au in Australia and www
Tickets .goholidays.co.nz in New Zealand. Well-
Online ticket sales work well for trips with few known agencies for cheap fares with branches
or no connecting flights. However, travel agen- throughout Australia and New Zealand:
cies are a recommended resource for special Flight Centre Australia (%133 133; www.flightcentre
deals, sorting out tricky connections and or- .com.au); New Zealand (%0800 243 544; www.flight
ganising insurance and visas. Some of the more centre.co.nz)
reputable international online ticket sites: STA Travel Australia (%1300 733 035; www.statravel
Expedia (www.expedia.com) Cheap air fares and car hire. .com.au); New Zealand (%0508 782 872; www.statravel
Flight Centre International (www.flightcentre.com) .co.nz)
A discount agency with sites for Australia, Canada, New
Zealand, the UK and the US. Central Asia & China
Flights.com (www.tiss.com) An international site with PIA has weekly Almaty to Islamabad and
cheap fares and an easy-to-search database. Tashkent to Islamabad flights, and flies
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Use Travel regularly from Kabul to Karachi (Rs 17,290
Services to book multistop trips. one way), Islamabad (Rs 13,800), Lahore
STA Travel (www.statravel.com) The leader in student (Rs 13,800) and Peshawar (Rs 8000). Ariana
travel discounts (you don’t need to be a student), with Afghan Airlines may recommence weekly
links to worldwide STA sites. Kabul to Islamabad flights.
Travelocity (www.travelocity.com) This US site allows you From Hong Kong and Beijing, there
to search fares (in US dollars) to/from practically anywhere. are flights to Karachi and Islamabad (via
Bangkok) once a week with PIA and Air
BUYING TICKETS IN PAKISTAN China (US$1100 return). The only places you
Although Pakistani travel agencies don’t offer can fly to/from Kashgar are Islamabad and
exceptional international flight discounts, Ürümqi (Y1230), from where you can catch
prices are usually more competitive than those flights to several Chinese cities plus a few
 384 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r lonelyplanet.com

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel is the
fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as a global ben-
efit, but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global warming.

Flying & climate change

Pretty much every form of motorized travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced
climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders, because of the distances they
allow us to travel, and because they release greenhouse gases high into the atmosphere. Two
people taking a return flight between Europe and the US will contribute as much to climate
change as an average household’s gas and electricity consumption over a whole year.
TRANSPORT

Carbon offset schemes

Climatecare.org and other websites use ‘carbon calculators’ that allow travellers to offset the
level of greenhouse gases they are responsible for with financial contributions to sustainable
travel schemes that reduce global warming – including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan
and Uganda.
Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel industry,
supports the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its staff
and author travel.
For more information check out www.lonelyplanet.com.

international connections. China Southern Lastminute (%0180 528 43 66; www.lastminute.de)

Airlines flies daily between Ürümqi and STA Travel (%0180 545 64 22; www.statravel.de)
Islamabad (US$450), Wednesday to Sunday;
and stops over in Kashgar (US$370) on ITALY
Saturday only. CTS Viaggi (%06 462 04 31; www.cts.it) Specialising in
student and youth travel.
Continental Europe
Several carriers have daily or multiple-weekly NETHERLANDS
direct links to Pakistan from European cities. Airfair (%020-620 5121; www.airfair.nl)
To Islamabad, PIA has weekly direct flights
from Milan, Oslo and Paris. To Lahore, PIA SPAIN
has weekly direct flights from Copenhagen, Barcelo Viajes (%902 11 62 26; www.barceloviajes.com)
Milan, Oslo, Paris and Rome. From Italy,
return fares to Lahore start at around East Asia
€650. From France, fares to Lahore start at Thai Airways flies direct from Bangkok to
€800. Some sites where further options can Karachi, Lahore and Islamabad several times
be explored: a week. Singapore Airlines flies to Lahore via
Karachi (S$880) three times a week. PIA flies
FRANCE Bangkok to Islamabad/Lahore/Karachi at least
Anyway (%0892 893 892; www.anyway.fr) four times a week. From Tokyo, PIA flies di-
Lastminute (%0899 705 000; www.lastminute.fr) rect to Islamabad/Lahore/Karachi at least
Nouvelles Frontières (%0825 000 747; www once a week. From Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
.nouvelles-frontieres.fr) Airlines flies to Karachi twice a week. STA Travel
OTU Voyages (%0155 823 232; www.otu.fr) Specialis- (Bangkok %662 236 0262; www.statravel.co.th; Tokyo %03-
ing in student and youth travel. 5391 2922; www.statravel.co.jp; Kuala Lumpur %03-230 5720;
Voyageurs du Monde (%01 40 15 11 15; www.vdm fax 03-230 5718; Singapore %6737 7188; www.statravel.com
.com) .sg) can offer more details:

GERMANY Middle East

Expedia (%0180 500 60 25; www.expedia.de) Iran Air has a direct Tehran to Karachi
Just Travel (%089-747 33 30; www.justtravel.de) flight once a week, while PIA and Shaheen
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d 385

Air International have regular connections East capitals. From Los Angeles, expect to pay
(mostly with Karachi) to/from Abu Dhabi, around US$2400 for a return to Islamabad/
Al Ain, Doha, Dubai, Muscat and Kuwait. Lahore. From New York, fares to Islamabad/
Recommended agencies: Lahore start from US$1600. From Vancouver,
Al-Rais Travels (www.alrais.com; Dubai) return fares to Islamabad/Lahore start from
Egypt Panorama Tours (%2-359 0200; www C$2700, and C$2300 from Toronto.
.eptours.com; Cairo) The Los Angeles Times, San Francisco
Orion-Tour (www.oriontour.com; Istanbul) Examiner, Chicago Tribune, New York Times
and Canada’s Globe & Mail and Vancouver
South Asia Sun have good weekly travel sections.
Flights to/from India have been abruptly San Francisco is the discount-ticket capital
halted in the past (when relations between of America, although some good deals can be
the two countries have deteriorated). Indian found with agencies in Los Angeles, New York

TRANSPORT
Airlines flies Delhi to Lahore once a week, and other big cities. Websites recommended
and PIA flies Delhi to Lahore (four times a for online bookings:
week) and Karachi (three times), and Mumbai www.cheaptickets.com
to Karachi once a week. PIA flies Colombo www.expedia.com
to Karachi, and PIA and Biman fly Dhaka www.itn.net
to Karachi at least five times a week between www.lowestfare.com
them. PIA flies Kathmandu to Karachi www.orbitz.com
twice a week. STIC Travels (www.stictravel.com; Delhi www.sta.com
% 11-23357468; Mumbai % 22-22181431) is a rec- www.travelocity.com
ommended agency with offices in dozens of
Indian cities. LAND
Bicycle
UK & Ireland At the time of research there was no problem
From the UK, the Middle East carriers such as with bringing a bicycle into or out of Pakistan,
Emirates and Gulf Air offer the most competi- although you’re expected to mention it on
tive fares. Return fares from London to either your visa application. It’s hard to get a de-
Karachi or Lahore start at around UK£600. finitive answer about bringing a bicycle into
PIA flies to Islamabad, Karachi and Lahore China. Chinese embassies often say foreign
several times a week and British Airways flies tourists are not allowed to bring bicycles into
to Islamabad three times a week. China and other sources say all you need is an
Discount air travel is big business in import permit. No cyclist has been prevented
London. Advertisements for travel agencies from bringing one in or out at Tashkurgan
appear in the travel pages of the weekend for years, and no permit is needed to cycle
broadsheet newspapers, in Time Out, the the Kashgar–Tashkurgan route. It’s wise
Evening Standard and in the free maga- to contact the embassies of both countries
zine TNT. A selection of recommended (see p370) to find out if any new rules have
travel agencies: been introduced.
Bridge the World (%0870-444 7474; www.b-t-w If you’re bringing your bike in by air, you
.co.uk) can dismantle it and put it in a bag or box,
Flightbookers (%0870-010 7000; www.ebookers.com) but you may also be able to wheel it to the
Flight Centre (%0870-499 0040; www.flightcentre check-in desk, where it should be treated as
.co.uk) baggage (you may have to remove the pedals
North-South Travel (%01245-608 291; www.north and turn the handlebars sideways). Always
southtravel.co.uk) Donates part of its profit to projects in check in advance with the specific airline in-
the developing world. volved (preferably before you buy a ticket)
STA Travel (%0871-2-300 040; www.statravel.co.uk) whether it will be treated as baggage or as
Trailfinders (%0845-058 5858; www.trailfinders.co.uk) (expensive) cargo.
Travel Bag (%0800-082 5000; www.travelbag.co.uk)
Border Crossings
USA & Canada The only legal overland crossing between
From the USA and Canada, most flights are India and Pakistan is at Wagah (Attari on
via London or Frankfurt and one of the Middle the India side), 30km east of Lahore. You can
 386 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d lonelyplanet.com

cross by rail, road or foot. After the Grand the border you need to go to the office of the
Trunk Rd, the most famous road into Pakistan Khyber Political Agent to collect a gunman to
is the KKH, over the Khunjerab Pass from accompany you to the border. There is no cost
China. There is a busy road crossing to Kabul for this service, but the gunman will expect a
in Afghanistan beyond the Khyber Pass at tip (Rs 200). You have to organise your own
Torkham, and another at Chaman on the transport (about Rs 1800 for a 4WD to the
road to Kandahar. With an Afghan visa the border). On the Afghan side of the border,
crossing is pretty straightforward. Zahedan in turn right to go to Immigration (a large new
Iran is linked to Quetta via the border post at building – you can’t miss it). After this, taxi
Taftan (also called Kuh-i-Taftan; Mirjavé on drivers will assail you for business, but public
the Iran side). transport is another 500m walk from here.
Expect to pay around 300Afg (US$6) for a seat
Car & Motorcycle in a minibus to Kabul, double that for a seat
TRANSPORT

You can bring your own car, minibus or in a shared taxi. Get a copy of Lonely Planet’s
motorcycle into Pakistan duty-free, for up to Afghanistan and check the security situation
three months. You’ll need a carnet de passage – with your home country’s travel advisory serv-
essentially a passport for the vehicle – plus ice before entering the country.
registration papers, liability insurance and an
International Driving Permit (IDP). On entry, China
you may be required to sign a form stating The only overland route to/from China is the
that you won’t sell the vehicle while you’re in KKH, over the 4730m Khunjerab Pass. The
Pakistan. Spare parts and reliable mechanical pass is open to foreigners from 1 May to 15
expertise are best found in the major popula- November, unless snow closes it sooner.
tion centres. For more information on paper- Northern Areas Transportation Company
work, insurance and the availability of fuel and (Natco) and PTDC (Pakistan Tourism
spare parts, ask your automobile association Development Corporation) vehicles go to the
before leaving home. It’s also worth check- Chinese post at Tashkurgan (Rs 1500), with
ing the latest formalities with the relevant Chinese buses carrying on to Kashgar (Y62).
embassy in your home country. Bus travellers from China ride a Chinese bus
See p390 for more information about driv- from Kashgar (Y270) to the Pakistan cus-
ing in Pakistan. toms and immigration post at Afiyatabad
(New Sost). The trip takes two days, with an
Afghanistan overnight stop at Tashkurgan. You can also
At the time of research it was reasonably hire a minibus or 4WD from Afiyatabad to
straightforward to cross from Peshawar via Tashkurgan or from Kashgar to Afiyatabad.
the Khyber Pass to Jalalabad and Kabul. Also available is a 14-hour, nonstop bus
However, the crossing from Quetta via (Chinese and Natco) that runs between Gilgit
Chaman to Kandahar through haphazardly and Kashgar. This is of no interest to travellers
lawless countryside was considered highly wishing to see the best of Northern Pakistan,
dangerous and was positively discouraged by but it may be of use for the time-limited trav-
local authorities – a situation that was unlikely eller retracing their tracks.
to change in the foreseeable future. Customs and immigration at Afiyatabad is
Single-entry tourist visas (US$30) can be open daily from 8.30am to 11am for China-
obtained from the Afghanistan consulates in bound travellers and until 5pm for Pakistan-
Peshawar and Quetta and at the embassy in bound travellers. You must have a valid China
Islamabad (see p370 for further details). visa to enter China – they are not issued at the
In Peshawar, you need a permit to get to border. You must have a visa to enter Pakistan.
the border and you must also be accompanied For information about visas, see p378.
by an armed escort. For details about the fol-
lowing procedures see the Afghan consulate, India
p192. Go to the Home & Tribal Affairs Office The overland crossing between Pakistan and
at least 48 hours before departure, and present India is at Wagah (Attari on the India side),
your visa (plus photocopies of the data pages 30km east of Lahore. The border is open daily
of your passport and Pakistan and Afghanistan from 9.30am to 3.30pm (10am to 4pm India
visas) to get the free permit. On the way to time). Unfortunately the crossing remains
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d 387

hostage to Pakistan–India relations, so it’s and 1pm daily at the PTDC (%reservations 042-
not a bad idea to double-check that the bor- 5755940) office in Lahore (p101), but do check
der can still be easily crossed at the time of if it’s operating at the time of your visit, as
your visit. in the past it has been suspended whenever
Before crossing into India, you must clear India–Pakistan relations turned sour.
immigration and customs formalities at The bus departs from the PTDC office every
Wagah. At the immigration office your pass- Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday at
port will be checked for a valid Indian visa, 6am (but you must report an irksome two
and then you’ll be directed to the nearby cus- hours prior to departure). A ticket costs Rs
toms section where the contents of your bags 1500 and the journey to Delhi takes about 12
will be examined. Be warned that any drugs hours (you’re required to go through customs
found will be seized and you’ll face the pen- and immigration formalities at the border as
alties of illegal possession (p369). The entire described earlier in this chapter). The luggage

TRANSPORT
immigration and customs procedure usually limit is 20kg (each kilogram after that costs an
takes about 45 minutes, sometimes longer additional Rs 60).
if there’s a crowd. Once you clear customs There are local buses that travel to the bor-
you’re given the green light to walk across der (Wagah) from Lahore. To get to the bor-
100m of neutral territory into India. If you der from Lahore’s Regal Chowk (The Mall),
have a lot of baggage, there are porters to lug catch bus 3 (Rs 4) to the main train station and
your load (around Rs 50). from there take bus 4 (Rs 12) to the border (be
You can drive your own vehicle across with warned that not all number 4 buses take you
a valid carnet. If you’re catching the direct all the way to the border, so make sure you
Lahore to Delhi bus or the train, you’ll still ask the driver before hopping on).
have to go through the standard immigration,
customs and security procedures. TRAIN
It’s definitely worth coordinating your The Samjhota Express departs Lahore at
crossing with the theatrical closing-of-the- 8.35am twice a week (Tuesday and Friday)
border ceremony (Rs 10 to watch from the to India’s Attari (Rs 50) and then onwards to
Pakistani side) that takes place here before Delhi (economy/first class Rs 177/864, around
sunset each day – see p120. eight hours). Note that passengers have to go
There are a couple of small shops at Wagah through the same immigration and customs
selling cold drinks, tea and snacks. There’s formalities as anyone else crossing the border
also a little bookstall, Latif Old Book Shop (%042- (described earlier).
6582611), with a selection of (usually old) travel The alternative, and easier, journey is to
guides, novels and general-interest books. take a bus, taxi or train the 30km from Lahore
You may also be able to sell and exchange to Wagah, then to walk across the border to
books here. The amicable owner, Mr Latif, is Attari. If it’s the afternoon, check out the clos-
happy to answer any questions you may have ing-of-the-border ceremony on the India side
about Wagah. before making the 28km bus or taxi ride to
Few travellers stay overnight at Wagah, but if Amritsar, where there is a plethora of daily
you’re stranded here there’s a PTDC Motel (%042- train options to Delhi and beyond (see www
6583072; s/d Rs 600/800, s/d with air-con Rs 1000/1300; a), .indianrail.gov.in). This will allow travellers
which also allows camping on site (Rs 100 per to make the journey any day and avoid the
person including car parking and use of a bath- long delays on both sides of the border that
room). The hotel has a restaurant (mains Rs 65 the Samjhota Express experiences – at times
to Rs 350) that welcomes nonguests; it’s a con- more than three hours each side.
venient place to chill if you have time to kill –
a cup of tea is Rs 25. In the PTDC Motel is an Iran
information centre and a bank (open 11am to There is a fortnightly train service between
1pm) where you can change money. Zahedan and Quetta, via the border post at
Taftan (also called Kuh-i-Taftan; Mirjavé on
BUS the Iran side). At the time of writing, it de-
There’s a direct bus service (Rs 1500, 12 parted Zahedan on the 3rd and 17th of every
hours) between Lahore and Delhi. You can month at 10.30am, or Quetta on the 1st and
pre-book a ticket on this bus between 9am 15th of every month at 12.30pm. There is one
 388 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r lonelyplanet.com

class and fare (Rs 650) and the trip takes 24 cost travellers as soon as they leave passport
to 27 hours. control. It can be tough changing travellers
Between Quetta and Taftan there are several cheques, so always have cash on hand; ex-
daily buses (Rs 350, 15 to 16 hours) – these change rates are generally better in Quetta.
are a considerably quicker (but somewhat less If you’re crossing from Pakistan to Iran late
comfortable) option than the train. Minibuses in the day or on Sunday, it’s probably best to
tend to leave early in the morning, travelling change money in Quetta.
in the heat of the day and requiring an over-
night stay in Taftan before crossing into Iran. SEA
Note that buses from Quetta to Taftan tend to At the time of writing there were no sched-
be overnight to avoid the heat of day, and by uled international passenger services to/from
arriving at the border in the morning there’s Pakistan apart from the haj ferries (for Muslim
plenty of time to get connections in Iran. pilgrims to Mecca).
TRANSPORT

However, travelling through wild Balochistan

at night isn’t always recommended, as there’s
a small but very real security risk. Taftan feels
like the end of the road if you’re coming from
GETTING AROUND
Iran – the Tarmac road disappears once you AIR
cross into Pakistan. Overland drivers should Airlines in Pakistan
note that petrol smuggling is big business Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) has con-
here, and while there are no petrol stations nections between the major centres in Pakistan
from the border until you’re almost at Quetta, including Islamabad, Karachi, Lahore, Multan,
there are lots of truck stops with barrels of Bahawalpur, Peshawar and Quetta. Air Blue
cheap Iranian petrol and hand pumps (prices and Shaheen Air International also serve a
increase the further you get from the border, few major centres (see regional chapters for
so it’s worth filling your tank). details). Domestic airlines usually have one
The border is open between 8am and 5pm or more ‘night coach’ flights linking major
(to 7pm in summer) daily throughout the cities. They can depart at inconvenient hours
year. The only formality is that you’ll need to but are around 25% cheaper than day flights
get an entry stamp in your passport (of course, – for flight schedules and costs, contact
you must have a valid visa to get into Pakistan individual airlines.
too – these are not issued at the border). Air Blue (ED/ABQ; %111-247258; www.airblue.com)
Frequent Iranian buses make the two-hour PIA (PK/PIA; %021-45794769; www.piac.com.pk)
trip between Mirjavé and Zahedan. Check Shaheen Air International (NL/SAI; %111-808080;
current timetables before you head out. www.shaheenair.aero)
For those driving their own vehicles, once
you arrive in Quetta, seek advice from the Wait until you get to Pakistan to buy domes-
PTDC (p145) about the current safety situa- tic tickets, as they can be up to 30% cheaper
tion (including whether convoy travel is rec- than tickets purchased outside the country.
ommended) and appropriate resthouses en Every town with an airport has at least one
route to your next intended destination. Hotel PIA booking office. Travel agencies that are
Bloom Star (p146) is also good for advice – it general sales agents for PIA get their tickets
being a favourite with overlanders for years. at a discount, and may pass some of that on
Taftan is a dusty border town and not to you.
of great fascination to travellers, but if you For PIA domestic flights, there is no cancel-
miss your bus to Quetta or absolutely must lation fee if you cancel at least 24 hours prior
spend the night in Taftan, there’s a PTDC Motel to departure. However, there’s a charge of 25%
(%0886-510248; s/d Rs 600/800). Cheaper (more of ticket cost if you cancel between eight and
basic) hotels are also available in Taftan 24 hours before departure and 50% if within
and Dalbandin. eight hours.
The National Bank of Pakistan in Taftan When taking a domestic flight (and inter-
changes money between 9am and 1.30pm national flight for that matter), don’t forget
Monday to Saturday. Alternatively, private to get any check-in luggage security strapped
moneychangers clutching calculators and before proceeding to the check-in counter
plastic bags full of rupees and rials will ac- (otherwise you’ll be sent back to get it done).
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B i c y c l e 389

At the check-in counter make sure you get and Citylinkers. Up north, Natco and sev-
tags for any hand luggage, as these need to eral private companies run buses between
be stamped by security later. Rawalpindi, Gilgit, Skardu and the China
Keep in mind that domestic carriers may border. Mashabrum, Silk Tours and K2 have
well add new routes, cancel existing routes more-comfortable coaches, at least as far
and/or change flight schedules and fares dur- as Aliabad (Hunza) and Skardu. Note that
ing the life of this book. Daewoo bus stations are separate from the
chaos of the local bus stands and are usually
BICYCLE easy to access. Although a little more expen-
The KKH from Islamabad to Kashgar via the sive, Daewoo buses are newer, safer, cleaner,
Khunjerab Pass is the Holy Grail for cycle and where possible, they use the quicker toll
tourers – a demanding and spectacular trip roads. Another bonus is that the ‘hostess’ on
for fit and well-prepared cyclists. See p392 and board provides a snack and drink.

TRANSPORT
the boxed text on p242 for further details. Then there are Pakistan’s rolling works of
Furious traffic and decidedly nutty drivers on art: chrome-sequinned vintage Bedford buses
the Grand Trunk Rd (Peshawar–Lahore) and and trucks, vividly painted with psychedelic
the National Hwy (Karachi–Lahore) make them designs, poetry, Quranic passages and/or
dangerous for cycling, but the gentle back roads technicolour landscapes, equipped with tinted
of the Potwar Plateau (Islamabad–Peshawar) windows, dangling chains and musical horns,
and the steeper roads through Murree and and decorated with mirrors, badges and flut-
the Margalla Hills (north of Islamabad) are ing. Though a photographer’s delight, they’re
more promising. For the adventurous, the perversely uncomfortable to ride in.
(extensively unsealed) road between Chitral Minibuses are another option, and Hi-
and Gilgit offers stunning views and friendly Ace and Coaster minibuses run on many
villages, though you’ll need to be self-sufficient regional and long-distance routes. They’re
on most nights. At the time of research, much faster and often a bit pricier than buses, al-
of the interior of Sindh and Balochistan was not though in a Hi-Ace your comfort is severely
deemed safe by local authorities for tourists on compromised by the cramped seating ar-
any form of transport. rangement (they squeeze four people into a
For information about equipment, see row of seats where there’s space for three)
p392. and the view of the scenery is limited – an
important factor in Chitral and the Northern
BUS & MINIBUS Areas. Minibuses wait in major bus stands or
Getting around Pakistan by bus isn’t always in specified areas in certain towns. Drivers
terribly comfortable but it’s undeniably cheap. will usually hang around until the bus is full
The road distances charts in this chapter (p390 before they depart.
and p393). show approximate road distances Common short-haul vehicles are small
between major cities; where there are rail Suzuki vans with two rows of seats and a
lines, the distances are roughly the same. The garish canopy slapped over the top, or larger
main corridor for both is Karachi to Peshawar, Toyota pick-ups – some with canopies that
via Multan, Lahore and Rawalpindi, with a double as a second level of seating! They’ll
branch from Sukkur to Quetta through the stop anywhere to pick you up or set you down,
Bolan Pass. and you pay only for the distance you go.
There are numerous bus companies and Views are nonexistent unless you’re on the
some towns have more than one bus depot, roof or hanging off the back! Don’t be put off
which can create a bit of confusion. Depots are paying a little extra for the privilege of a cab
inevitably chaotic and the best way to attract seat – it’s probably worth it.
help may just be to shout out your destina- Where mountain roads permit nothing
tion to one of the spruikers. You’ll be quickly else, passenger/cargo 4WDs (Jeeps and Land
ushered to an appropriate bus. The better Cruisers) serve remote villages. The smaller,
outfits, operating between the larger centres, made-in-Pakistan Jeeps have a monopoly on
will usually run to a timetable. the narrow mountain roads with active sliding
The most comfortable intercity trips areas and precipitous drop-offs. These vehi-
are in air-con buses with outfits including cles rarely run to set schedules and you can
Daewoo, New Khan Road Runners, Skyways hire them as a ‘special’ or by the seat.
 390 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • C a r & M o t o r c y c l e lonelyplanet.com

drive car rental is not common practice. More

PAKISTAN ROAD DISTANCES common, and surprisingly economical, is hir-
The distances (in kilometres) in the Road ing a car with a driver.
Distances in Pakistan table (p390) are reli- Traffic drives on the left in Pakistan and
able to within 5%. Signs, maps, officials and motorcyclists are technically required to wear
drivers will most likely give you slightly dif- a helmet. It’s best to avoid night driving, par-
ferent figures. Distances for Islamabad are ticularly in places like Balochistan, where you
about the same as for Rawalpindi. may be asked to join a guarded convoy. For
information on maps see p373.

Costs Self-Drive
Bus travel is very economical if not always Avis has cars for hire in Pakistan’s major cit-
comfortable. For example, the six-hour mini- ies, most often through Travel Walji’s. Details
TRANSPORT

bus trip from Gilgit to Skardu costs Rs 200; can be found in this book’s regional chapters.
the very nice air-con Daewoo express between Local companies may be a tad cheaper, but
Rawalpindi and Peshawar is only Rs 210. always check the small print carefully before
Whenever travelling by bus, it’s worth committing yourself.
flashing your student card – while you may You’ll need to show an IDP and leave a wad
get little more than a snarl, you could possibly of cash or a credit-card imprint as deposit.
score a discount on long-distance routes.
Car & Driver Hire
Reservations Private car hire gives you the flexibility to go
The plethora of private transport available where you want when you want. Try to get a
usually means you’ll have no trouble finding driver who speaks at least some English and is
a ride just by rocking up to the bus station. familiar with the places you intend visiting.
However, to ensure a seat on an early depar- There are numerous places that will rent a
ture, or a window seat for the best views, or car with driver and you should always shop
to secure a seat on one of the more salubri- around to bag the best deal. Regional chap-
ous air-con services that run to timetables, it ters contain details, but, as an example, in
pays to make a reservation. Usually there is Islamabad a Hi-Ace van with driver starts at
no booking fee. around Rs 1800 a day, plus Rs 9 per kilometre;
less for hires of more than seven days.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE In the north, 4WDs and Suzukis for hire nor-
Few foreign drivers bring their vehicles into mally have a separate stand; they are also found
Pakistan (for regulations, see p386), and self- around the bus station and filling stations.

ROAD DISTANCES IN PAKISTAN (KM)

Chitral ---
Gilgit 613 ---
Karachi 1942 2129 ---
Khunjerab Pass 879 264 2394 ---
Lahore 650 838 1292 1104 ---
Multan 997 1184 945 1449 335 ---
Muzaffarabad 428 470 1709 735 417 764 ---
Peshawar 304 558 1721 830 436 783 299 ---
Quetta 1857 2044 715 2310 1207 859 1621 1643 ---
Rawalpindi 374 573 1567 838 275 623 138 160 1481 ---
Saidu Sharif 216 399 1804 664 511 859 222 159 1718 236 ---
Skardu 790 170 2300 435 1009 1355 640 735 2215 734 576 ---
Sukkur 1451 1638 491 1903 801 454 1213 1237 406 1077 1313 1809 ---
Chitral

Gilgit

Karachi

Khunjerab Pass

Lahore

Multan

Muzaffarabad

Peshawar

Quetta

Rawalpindi

Saidu Sharif

Skardu

Sukkur
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • H i t c h i n g 391

In touristed places like Hunza and Swat, 4WD comfortable) than taxis but be prepared to
drivers have formed cartels with fixed rates for cop a lungful of pollution from fume-belching
common routes. traffic. As with taxis, you should always fix a
Jeeps or Land Cruisers can be hired from fare before setting off. Motorcycle-rickshaws
the PTDC, and 4WDs are often available pri- are faster and brighter but are also uncom-
vately (ask at your hotel), although they may fortable. Two-wheeled, horse-drawn tongas
be difficult to find on short notice in summer. are slower and getting rarer, but are a more
At the time of writing, typical Land Cruiser scenic way to get around.
rates from the PTDC were about Rs 3000 per A bicycle can be a good way to explore
day including driver and diesel. Rates fluctu- smaller towns. For rental possibilities ask at
ate according to the price of fuel. your hotel or try bicycle-repair shops.

HITCHING TRAIN

TRANSPORT
Hitching is never entirely without risk in Pakistan has some 13,000km of tracks, and if
any country, and we don’t recommend it, you don’t like the thought of being wedged
especially for solo women. Travellers who into a careening minibus, you’ll enjoy the
hitch should be aware that they are taking a trains. On the downside, long-distance trains
small but potentially serious risk; it’s safer if are often crowded. If you’re catching one at
you travel with at least one other person and an intermediate point you can’t always be
inform someone of where you are planning to sure of a seat, even if you booked one. Long-
go. You should be aware that although some haul trains can run hours late to their later
drivers may take you on board purely for the destinations. For seat availability, e-ticketing,
company; others may do so in the belief that and further rail information, check out
they’ll receive some payment. www.pakr ail.com.
Trains are Express, Mail or Passenger – we
LOCAL TRANSPORT list the best options in the regional chapters of
Fixed-route, fixed-fare options in bigger cit- this book. The various classes that are avail-
ies include buses, minibuses and passenger able on different trains are also mentioned in
Suzukis. All are cheap and more often than the regional chapters.
not bursting with passengers. They’ll usu- Pakistan Railways publishes a handy Time
ally stop anywhere along the route for you. & Fare Table, for sale at most train stations and
Passenger Suzukis charge a token Rs 5 or Rs at some city bookshops, for Rs 25. Updated
8 for intracity routes. They may have a ‘con- twice a year, it’s good for route planning and
ductor’, but where they don’t, tap on the cab for current details about schedules and fares.
window or stomp on the floor to signal that Pakistan’s railway inquiries telephone number
you wish to stop. is %117.
City taxis may have meters but are invari- Food can usually be bought on the train
ably ‘broken’ so make sure you fix a price itself or from food stalls and roaming vendors
before you hop in. Some cities, such as Lahore at station stops. Bringing your own bottled
and Karachi, also have ‘City Radio Cabs’ or water is a good idea.
‘Metro Cabs’ (they’re usually based at the air- Railway officials advise against accepting
port). They’re a little more expensive than food or drink from strangers as there have
regular taxis but you’re assured of comfort been a few incidences of drugging (and subse-
and reliability. quent robberies) on trains. You’re also advised
Autorickshaws – snarling, three-wheeled, to padlock your bags to racks (especially if
two-stroke machines – are cheaper (but less you intend sleeping) and to keep your money
and important documents (eg passport) in a
well-concealed moneybelt.
SEGREGATED TRANSPORT
On most passenger transport, women (and Classes
often children) are seated separately from Long-distance runs have sleepers in 1st and
the men, usually near the driver. Foreign air-con class (which should ideally be booked
mixed couples may be asked to rearrange ahead, to a maximum of 14 and 30 days, re-
themselves accordingly. spectively). Some trains have economy seats
and berths. Women may book female-only
 392 A L O N G T H E K K H • • B i c y c l e lonelyplanet.com

compartments. At smaller stations with no Reservations

reservation quota, you may not be able to Seats in all classes can be reserved up to 30
book seats or berths. days in advance. Try to book as far ahead
Economy is the cheapest seat (reserved or as you can to increase your chances of get-
unreserved) on most express trains. It’s a step ting your preferred train and class. If you
up from the ‘cattle class’ of second class, which cancel your reservation you can get 100%
is mostly confined to slow passenger trains. of your fare back if the ticket is surren-
Air-conditioned lower (seat, berth and parlour) dered more than two days before departure,
are comfortable seats in the air-con carriage minus 10% more than 24 hours before de-
that are good value (with the foreigner/student parture, and minus 25% less than 24 hours
discounts) for medium-distance journeys. Air- before departure. There’s a 50% refund if
conditioned sleeper is the most comfortable the ticket is surrendered within three hours
class for long journeys. This class is expen- after departure.
TRANSPORT

sive and relatively private, accommodating

two or four passengers to a compartment –
some with toilets. The 1st-class sleeper (seat
and berth) is comfortable but it’s not a step ALONG THE KKH
up from more modern air-con carriages. In
1st-class sleeper or air-conditioned sleeper you BICYCLE
are expected to make way for sitting passengers The KKH is a spectacular trip for cyclists
between 6am and 9pm. If you wish to reserve who are super fit and have an appetite for
the compartment for you own exclusive use the unexpected. One called the Pakistan side
during these hours there is an additional fee a dream road: ‘Where else in the world can
payable based on the length of the journey. you find an incredibly scenic paved road
Reserved sleepers may have berth and car- from almost sea level to almost 5000m?’ See
riage numbers on the ticket, but sometimes the boxed text on p242 for more details.
you must go to the conductor/ticket inspector Several shops in Kashgar sell Chinese-
for your allocation. This is also the person to made mountain bikes for the equivalent
befriend if you want to upgrade your ticket. of around US$120. Travellers have bought
Trains can be surprisingly cold at night; these, cycled to the Northern Areas and
only air-con compartments are usually heated. then sold them at no loss. Doing this in the
Bedding is not always provided on sleeper other direction is more problematic, as bikes
trains – verify the situation when booking in Gilgit are scarcer and considerably more
your ticket. expensive and Chinese customs may well
Railway retiring rooms exist at most major inquire as to the whereabouts of the bike
city train stations and are available for air- that you brought with you upon entering
con or 1st-class sleeper ticket holders (usu- China.
ally departing within 24 hours). Singles cost Cyclists can find news and advice in hotel
around Rs 100 and doubles Rs 150 (fan) or guest books, so called ‘rumour books’, along
Rs 400 (air-con). the way. For information on getting your
machine to the KKH, see p385.
Costs
An international student ID card gets you a very Equipment
generous 50% discount on train tickets, while A mountain bike is more comfortable than
nonstudent foreign tourists are entitled to a a touring bike. If you do use a touring bike,
25% concession. To get these you usually have take the fattest tyres you can fit on your
to go to the Commercial Department, often in a rims. Fill your kit with every imaginable
separate building from the ticket office (inquire spare; you won’t be able to find that crucial
at the train station). Children under three years widget in the back of beyond.
of age are free and those between three and 10 A tent and stove are handy in the thinly
years of age are charged half fare. populated region between Ghez and Sost,
The per-kilometre rate for train travel but you can manage without them, espe-
varies widely; see the train tables in regional cially if you’re planning to cycle only in
chapters for fares and an indication of which Pakistan. The reduced weight will let you
classes are available. cycle far enough to always find some sort of
lonelyplanet.com A L O N G T H E K K H • • B u s & M i n i b u s 393

wracking, that many cyclists start or finish

KKH ROAD DISTANCES their trip in Gilgit.
The distances (in kilometres) in the Road
Distances on the KKH table (p393) are prob- BUS & MINIBUS
ably accurate to within about 5%. Signs In the Northern Areas, Natco and several pri-
(though many on the KKH have been de- vate companies run buses and Coaster mini-
faced), maps, officials and drivers may tell buses between Rawalpindi, Gilgit, Skardu and
you different numbers. the China border. Natco runs daily deluxe, air-
con and VIP services at various times. Chinese
buses, all government-run, are marginally
shelter and food. A bivvy bag will probably maintained, tired old crocks, usually equipped
do for the few places where you might have with grumpy drivers. Sample cheapest fares
to sleep outdoors. If you bring a stove, note and estimated hours include the following:

TRANSPORT
that kerosene is readily available (it should
be filtered before use) but not methylated Route Fare Duration
spirits (methyl alcohol). Rawalpindi–Gilgit Rs 650 15hr
Water supplies are vital, and each rider Afiyatabad–Tashkurgan Rs 1500 5hr
should be equipped to carry a minimum Tashkurgan–Kashgar Y63 8hr
of 3L.
For medium and short hops, the roads are
Safety & Security ruled by Hi-Ace minibuses. There are nu-
Stories of bike theft abound in China, so al- merous private operators who’ll stop almost
ways lock up and keep watch on your bike anywhere if waved down. Sample fares and
when it is on the roof rack of a bus. Pakistan estimated hours include the following:
is safer but bike thefts happen there too.
Rockfall hazard on the KKH and the Gilgit Route Fare Duration
to Skardu road rises sharply during rainy Gilgit–Skardu Rs 200 6hr
weather. Don’t ever cross a recent rockfall; Gilgit–Karimabad Rs 100 3hr
the road is probably littered with boulders, Karimabad–Passu Rs 35 1hr
with more to come. Go back and wait for the Karimabad–Afiyatabad Rs 90 2.5hr
mountainsides to settle. In Indus Kohistan
particularly, kids have been known to throw Schedules & Booking
stones and hurl rather large rocks from high Only long-distance buses, such as those from
vantage points at cyclists. This has become Rawalpindi to Gilgit, Gilgit to Skardu, and
so common, and the experience so nerve- Gilgit to Afiyatabad (New Sost), run on even

ROAD DISTANCES ON THE KKH (KM)

Rawalpindi ---
Abbottabad 110 ---
Besham 260 150 ---
Chilas 465 355 205 ---
Gilgit 573 446 340 135 ---
Karimabad 705 595 445 240 105 ---
Afiyatabad 795 685 535 330 195 90 ---
Khunjerab Pass 880 770 620 415 280 175 85 ---
Tashkurgan 1010 900 750 545 410 305 215 130 ---
Kashgar 1300 1190 1040 835 700 595 505 420 290 ---
Rawalpindi

Abbottabad

Besham

Chilas

Gilgit

Karimabad

Afiyatabad

Khunjerab Pass

Tashkurgan

Kashgar
 394 A L O N G T H E K K H • • C a r & M o t o r c y c l e lonelyplanet.com

an approximation of a fixed timetable and hub in the region (see p329). From Ürümqi,
can be booked ahead, and then only by a few there are bus services to most cities in Xinjiang
days. Most other vehicles go when they’re and trains to Beijing (49 hours), Shanghai (51
full, so departures can be lengthy affairs, hours) and several other cities.
with drivers honking up and down in search
of passengers. KYRGYZSTAN
From at least June to September you can
CAR & MOTORCYCLE cross the 3752m Torugart Pass on a rough
Jeeps or Land Cruisers can be hired from road from Kashgar to Bishkek, and via the
the PTDC in Gilgit, the Kaghan Valley and Irkeshtam Pass from Kashgar to Osh. For
Rawalpindi; agencies in Kashgar; or privately details, see p329. Of course you must have
(ask at your hotel). They may be tough to find an onward visa (the closest place to get a
on short notice in summer. For information Kyrgyzstan visa is Delhi or Beijing). Chinese
TRANSPORT

on costs, see p390 and the Getting There & officials insist that tourists must also have
Away sections in regional chapters. a special Torugart permit (the Torugart
is formally a Class 2 or nontourist pass).
MOVING ON FROM KASHGAR Kashgar travel agencies or their Bishkek part-
There are many options for exploring the Silk ners can get these from Ürümqi with one or
Road province of Xinjiang and the rest of two weeks’ notice. No permit was necessary
China. These are comprehensively covered for crossing the Irkeshtam Pass at the time
in Lonely Planet’s China. of research.

Air TIBET
You can fly from Kashgar only to Ürümqi The road between Kashgar and Lhasa via
and Islamabad. Details can be found on p328. Ali requires a permit to travel and is heavily
Ürümqi has a few direct international connec- policed. China International Travel Service
tions including Almaty, Bishkek, Islamabad, (CITS) in Kashgar (see p324) can organise the
and Moscow via Novosibirsk, though these necessary permits and the vehicle to take you
services can be seasonal and it’s not uncom- to Ali as well as the vehicle (from Lhasa) that
mon for services to be suspended. will take you on to Lhasa. Between September
Ürümqi is linked with Beijing with sev- and June the cold is severe.
eral flights a day, and less frequently with An alternative route for more-independent
Hong Kong, Shanghai, Guangzhou (Canton), travel is via Golmud (Kashgar to Golmud
Chengdu and other Chinese cities. by bus or train and Golmud to Lhasa on a
CITS vehicle). For much more information
Land and advice, see the Karakoram Highway
There are road and rail links to Ürümqi, the chapter (p235) and Lonely Planet’s Tibet or
capital of Xinjiang and the major transport China guides.
 395

Health
tions over the counter without a prescrip-
CONTENTS tion, but this is not recommended, as fake,
poorly stored or out-of-date drugs are com-
Before You Go 395 mon. It can also be difficult to find some
Insurance 395 newer drugs, particularly the latest antide-
Recommended Vaccinations 396 pressants, blood-pressure medication and
Medical Checklist 396 contraceptive pills.
Online Resources 397 Have your teeth checked before you travel,
Further Reading 397 and if you wear glasses take a spare pair and
In Transit 397 your prescription.
Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) 397
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 397 INSURANCE
In Pakistan 397 Even if you are healthy, don’t travel without
Availability of Health Care 397 health insurance, as accidents do happen.
Infectious Diseases 397 Declare any existing medical conditions you
Traveller’s Diarrhoea 400 have – the insurance company will check
Environmental Hazards 400 and will not cover you where a condition
Women’s Health 401 was undeclared. You may require extra
cover for adventure activities such as ski-
ing. If your health insurance doesn’t cover
Travellers tend to worry about contracting in-

HEALTH
you for medical expenses abroad, consider
fectious diseases in this part of the world, but getting extra insurance. If you’re uninsured,
infections are rarely a cause of serious illness keep in mind that emergency evacuation
or death in travellers. Pre-existing medical is expensive, with bills of over US$100,000
conditions such as heart disease, and acciden- being common.
tal injury (especially traffic accidents) account Find out in advance if your insurance plan
for most life-threatening problems. Becoming will make payments directly to providers or
ill in some way, however, is very common. reimburse you later for overseas health expen-
Fortunately, most travellers’ illnesses can ei- ditures. In Pakistan the doctors usually expect
ther be prevented with some common-sense payment in cash. You may prefer a policy
behaviour or treated easily with a well-stocked that pays doctors or hospitals directly rather
medical kit. than you having to pay on the spot and claim
The following advice is a general guide only later. If you have to claim, make sure you keep
and does not replace the advice of a doctor all documentation. Some policies ask you to
trained in travel medicine. call (reverse charges) a centre in your home

BEFORE YOU GO HEALTH ADVISORIES

Pack medications in original, clearly labelled It’s usually a good idea to consult your
containers. A signed and dated letter from government’s travel-health website before
your physician describing your medical con- departure, if one is available:
ditions and medications, including generic Australia (www.dfat.gov.au/travel/)
names, is useful. If carrying syringes or nee- Canada (www.travelhealth.gc.ca)
dles, have a physician’s letter documenting New Zealand (www.mfat.govt.nz/travel)
their necessity. If you have a heart condition South Africa (www.dfa.gov.za/consular/travel
bring a copy of your ECG taken just prior _advice.htm)
to travelling. UK (www.doh.gov.uk/PolicyAndGuidance/
If you take any regular medication bring HealthAdviceToTravellers/fs/en)
double your needs in case of loss or theft. US (www.cdc.gov/travel/)
In Pakistan you can buy many medica-
 396 B E F O R E Y O U G O • • R e c o m m e n d e d Va c c i n a t i o n s lonelyplanet.com

country, where an immediate assessment of headache are the most common side effects. An allergic
your problem is made. reaction comprising hives and swelling can occur up to 10
days after any of the three doses, but this reaction is rare.
RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS Meningitis Single injection. There are two types; the quad-
Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your rivalent vaccine gives two to three years’ protection, and the
best source of information; they stock all meningitis group C vaccine gives around 10 years’ protection.
available vaccines and can give specific rec- Recommended for long-term backpackers aged under 25.
ommendations for your trip. Doctors will take Rabies Three injections in all. A booster after one year will
into account factors like past vaccination his- then provide 10 years’ protection. Side effects are rare –
tory, the length of your trip, activities you may occasionally a headache and sore arm.
be undertaking and underlying conditions. Tuberculosis (TB) A complex issue. Adult long-term
Most vaccines don’t produce immunity travellers are usually recommended to have a TB skin test
until at least two weeks after they have been before and after travel, rather than vaccination. Only one
given, so visit a doctor four to eight weeks vaccine is given in a lifetime.
before departure. Ask your doctor for an
International Certificate of Vaccination Required Vaccinations
(known as the yellow booklet), which will The sole vaccine required by law is yellow
list all the vaccinations you’ve received. fever. Proof of vaccination will only be re-
The World Health Organization (WHO) quired if you’ve visited a country in the
recommends the following vaccinations for yellow-fever zone within six days prior to en-
travellers to the Indian subcontinent: tering Pakistan. If you’re travelling to Pakistan
Adult diphtheria and tetanus A single booster is from Africa or South America, check to see
recommended if you haven’t been vaccinated or boosted whether you require proof of vaccination
against these in the previous 10 years. Side effects include before leaving your home country.
a sore arm and fever.
MEDICAL CHECKLIST
HEALTH

Hepatitis A Provides almost 100% protection for up to a

year; a booster after 12 months provides at least another Recommended for a personal medical kit:
20 years’ protection. Mild side effects such as headache Antibacterial cream, eg Muciprocin
and sore arm occur in 5% to 10% of people. Antibiotic for skin infections, eg Cepha-
Hepatitis B Now considered routine for most travellers. lexin or Amoxicillin/Clavulanate
Given as three shots over six months. A rapid schedule is Antibiotics for diarrhoea include Nor-
also available, as is a combined vaccination with hepatitis floxacin or Ciprofloxacin; for bacterial
A. Side effects are mild and uncommon; usually a headache diarrhoea Azithromycin; for giardia or
and sore arm. In 95% of people lifetime protection results. amoebic dysentery Tinidazole
Measles, mumps and rubella (MMR) Two doses of Antifungal cream, eg Clotrimazole
MMR are required unless you have had the diseases. Oc- Antihistamine – there are many options,
casionally a rash and flu-like illness can develop a week after eg Cetrizine for daytime and Promethaz-
receiving the vaccine. Many young adults require a booster. ine for night
Polio In 2003 polio was still present in Pakistan. Only Antiseptic, eg Betadine
one booster is required for adults for lifetime protection. Antispasmodic for stomach cramps, eg
Inactivated polio vaccine is safe during pregnancy. Buscopa
Typhoid Recommended for all travellers to Pakistan, even Contraceptive method
if you only visit urban areas. It offers around 70% protec- Decongestant, eg Pseudoephedrine
tion, lasts for two to three years and comes as a single DEET-based insect repellent
shot. Tablets are also available, but the injection is usually Diarrhoea – consider an oral rehydration
recommended as it has fewer side effects. Sore arm and solution (eg Gastrolyte), diarrhoea ‘stop-
fever may occur. per’ (eg Loperamide) and anti-nausea
Varicella If you haven’t had chickenpox discuss this vac- medication (eg Prochlorperazine)
cination with your doctor. First-aid items such as scissors, medicated
plasters, bandages, gauze, thermometer
These immunisations are recommended for (but not mercury), sterile needles and
long-term travellers (more than one month in syringes, safety pins and tweezers
infected areas) or those at special risk: Ibuprofen or another anti-inflammatory
Japanese B Encephalitis Three injections in all. A Indigestion tablets, eg Mylanta or Quick
booster is recommended after two years. Sore arm and Eze
lonelyplanet.com I N T R A N S I T • • D e e p Ve i n T h r o m b o s i s ( D V T ) 397

Iodine tablets (unless you are pregnant or To prevent the development of DVT on
have a thyroid problem) to purify water long flights you should walk around the cabin,
Laxative, eg Coloxyl perform isometric compressions of the leg
Permethrin to impregnate clothing and muscles (ie contract the leg muscles while sit-
mosquito nets ting), drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol
Steroid cream for allergic/itchy rashes, eg and tobacco.
1% to 2% hydrocortisone
Sunscreen and hat JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS
Throat lozenges Common when crossing more than five time
Thrush (vaginal yeast infection) treat- zones, jet lag results in insomnia, fatigue, ma-
ment, eg Clotrimazole pessaries or Dif- laise or nausea. To avoid jet lag try drinking
lucan tablet plenty of fluids (nonalcoholic) and eating light
Ural or equivalent if prone to urinary meals. Upon arrival, seek exposure to natu-
tract infections ral sunlight and readjust your schedule (for
meals, sleep etc) as soon as possible.
ONLINE RESOURCES Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate
There’s a wealth of online travel-health ad- (Dramamine), promethazine (Phenergan)
vice. For further information, Lonely Planet and meclizine (Antivert, Bonine) are usually
(www|.lonelyplanet.com) is a good place to the first choice for treating motion sickness.
start. WHO (www.who.int/ith/) publishes a The main side effect is drowsiness. A herbal
superb book called International Travel & alternative is ginger, which may be eaten plain
Health, revised annually and available online or candied (a small piece will do) or taken in
at no cost. Another website of general interest tablet form (500 to 1000 milligrams).
is MD Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth
.com), which provides complete travel-health
IN PAKISTAN

HEALTH
recommendations for every country and is up-
dated daily. The Centers for Disease Control
and Prevention (www.cdc.gov) website also AVAILABILITY OF HEALTH CARE
has good general information. In general, medical facilities are not up to
international standards and serious cases are
FURTHER READING likely to be evacuated. Facilities are severely
Lonely Planet publishes Healthy Travel Asia limited outside the major cities and it can be
& India by Isabelle Young and Travelling with difficult to find reliable medical care in rural
Children by Cathy Lanigan, both of which areas. Your embassy and insurance company
contain useful health information. can be good contacts. Hospitals and clinics are
listed under Information in the major city sec-
tions of regional chapters in this book.
IN TRANSIT INFECTIOUS DISEASES
DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT) Dengue Fever
This condition occurs when blood clots form This mosquito-borne disease is becoming in-
in the legs during plane flights, chiefly be- creasingly problematic in the tropical world
cause of prolonged immobility. The longer (including southern parts of Pakistan), espe-
the flight, the greater the risk. Though most cially in cities. As there is no vaccine available
blood clots are reabsorbed uneventfully, some it can only be prevented by avoiding mosquito
may break off and travel through the blood bites. The mosquito that carries dengue bites
vessels to the lungs, where they may cause day and night, so use insect-avoidance meas-
life-threatening complications. ures at all times. Symptoms include high fever,
The chief symptom of DVT is swelling or severe headache and body ache (dengue was
pain in the foot, ankle, or calf, usually but not previously known as ‘breakbone fever’). Some
always on just one side. When a blood clot people develop a rash and experience diar-
travels to the lungs, it may cause chest pain rhoea. There is no specific treatment, just rest
and difficulty in breathing. Travellers with and paracetamol – do not take aspirin as it in-
any of these symptoms should immediately creases the likelihood of haemorrhaging. See a
seek medical attention. doctor to be diagnosed and monitored.
 398 I N PA K I S TA N • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s lonelyplanet.com

Hepatitis A
A problem throughout the region, this food- DRINKING WATER
and water-borne virus infects the liver, caus- Never drink tap water
ing jaundice (yellow skin and eyes), nausea
and lethargy. There is no specific treatment Bottled water and soft drinks are gener-
for the disease; you just need to allow time ally safe – check the seal is intact at
for the liver to heal. It’s recommended that purchase
all travellers to Pakistan be vaccinated against Avoid ice
hepatitis A. Avoid fresh juices – they may have been
watered down
Hepatitis B
The only sexually transmitted disease that Boiling water is the most efficient
can be prevented by vaccination, hepatitis method of purifying it
B is spread by body fluids, including sexual The best chemical purifier is iodine. It
contact. In some parts of South Asia up to should not be used by pregnant women
20% of the population are carriers of hepatitis or those with thyroid problems.
B, and usually are unaware of this. The long- Water filters should also filter out
term consequences can include liver cancer viruses. Ensure your filter has a chemical
and cirrhosis. barrier such as iodine and a small pore
size, eg less than four microns.
Hepatitis E
Transmitted through contaminated food
and water, hepatitis E has similar symptoms Malaria
to hepatitis A but is far less common. It is For such a serious and potentially deadly dis-
a severe problem in pregnant women and ease, there is an enormous amount of mis-
HEALTH

can result in the death of both mother and information concerning malaria. For most
baby. There is currently no vaccine, and rural areas in Pakistan, the risk of contracting
prevention is by following safe eating and malaria far outweighs the risk of any tablet
drinking guidelines. side effects. Remember that malaria can be
fatal. Before you travel, you must seek medi-
HIV cal advice about the right medication and
This disease is spread via contaminated dosage for you.
body fluids. Avoid unsafe sex, unsterile nee- Malaria is caused by a parasite transmit-
dles (including in medical facilities) and tat- ted by the bite of an infected mosquito. The
toos. The prevalence of HIV in Pakistan is most important symptom of malaria is fever,
considered moderate. but general symptoms such as headache,
diarrhoea, cough or chills may also occur.
Japanese B Encephalitis Diagnosis can only be made by taking a
This viral disease is transmitted by mosqui- blood sample.
toes and is rare in travellers. Like most mos- Two strategies should be combined to
quito-borne diseases it is becoming a more prevent malaria – mosquito avoidance, and
common problem in affected countries. Most antimalarial medications. Most people who
cases occur in rural areas and vaccination is catch malaria are taking inadequate or no
recommended for travellers spending more antimalarial medication.
than one month outside of cities. There is no Travellers are advised to prevent mosquito
treatment, and a third of infected people will bites by taking these steps:
die while another third will suffer permanent Use a DEET-containing insect repel-
brain damage. lent on exposed skin. Wash it off at
night, as long as you are sleeping under
Leishmaniasis a mosquito net. Natural repellents like
This sandfly-borne parasite is very rare in citronella can be effective, but must be
travellers but common in the local population. applied more frequently than products
There are two forms of the disease – one that containing DEET.
only affects the skin (causing a chronic ulcer) Sleep under a mosquito net impregnated
and one that affects the internal organs. with permethrin
lonelyplanet.com I N PA K I S TA N • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s 399

Choose accommodation with window Measles

screens and fans (if not air-conditioned) This highly contagious bacterial infection,
Impregnate clothing with permethrin in spread via coughing and sneezing, remains
high-risk areas a problem in some parts of Pakistan. Most
Wear long sleeves and trousers in light people born before 1966 are likely to have had
colours the disease in childhood and are therefore im-
Use mosquito coils mune. It starts with a high fever and rash and
Spray your room with insect repellent can be complicated by pneumonia and brain
before going out for your evening meal disease. There’s no specific treatment.

There are a variety of antimalarial medica- Rabies

tions available: This uniformly fatal disease is endemic in
Lariam (Mefloquine) This has received much bad press, Pakistan and is spread by the bite or lick of
some justified, some not. This weekly tablet suits many an infected animal – most commonly a dog
people. Serious side effects are rare but include depression, or monkey. You should seek medical advice
anxiety, psychosis and fits. Anyone with a history of de- immediately after any animal bite or lick and
pression, anxiety, other psychological disorders or epilepsy commence post-exposure treatment. Having
should not take it. It’s considered safe in the second and pre-travel vaccination means the post-bite
third trimesters of pregnancy. It must be taken for four treatment is greatly simplified. If an animal
weeks after leaving the risk area. bites or licks you, gently wash the affected area
Doxycycline A broad-spectrum antibiotic with the with soap and hot water, and apply iodine-
added benefit of helping to prevent a variety of tropical based antiseptic. If you are not pre-vaccinated
diseases including leptospirosis, tick-borne disease and you will need to get to an urban area to receive
typhus. Potential side effects include photosensitivity the rabies immunoglobulin as soon as pos-
(a tendency to sunburn), thrush in women, indigestion, sible. This is almost impossible to obtain in

HEALTH
heartburn, nausea and interference with the contracep- most parts of Pakistan.
tive pill. More serious side effects include ulceration of
the oesophagus – you can help prevent this by taking STDs
your daily tablet with a meal and a large glass of water, The most common sexually transmitted
and never lying down within half an hour of taking it. diseases in Pakistan include herpes, warts,
It must be taken for four weeks after leaving the risk syphilis, gonorrhoea and chlamydia. People
area. carrying these diseases often have no signs of
Malarone This new drug is a combination of Atovaquone infection. Condoms will prevent gonorrhoea
and Proguanil. Side effects are uncommon and mild, most and chlamydia but not warts or herpes. If
commonly nausea and headache. It is the best tablet for after a sexual encounter you develop any rash,
those on short trips to high-risk areas. It must be taken for lumps, discharge or pain when passing urine
one week after leaving the risk area. seek immediate medical attention. If you’ve
Artesunate Artesunate and its derivatives are not been sexually active while travelling have an
suitable as a preventive medication. They are useful treat- STD check on your return home.
ments under medical supervision.
Tuberculosis
A final option is to take no preventive medica- While TB is rare in travellers, those who have
tion but to have a supply of emergency medi- had significant contact with the population
cation should you develop the symptoms of (such as medical and aid workers and long-
malaria. This is less than ideal, and you’ll need term travellers) should take precautions.
to get to a good medical facility within 24 Vaccination is usually only given to children
hours of developing a fever. If you choose under the age of five, but adults at risk are
this option the most effective and safe treat- recommended to have pre- and post-travel TB
ment is Malarone (four tablets once daily for tests. Main symptoms are fever, cough, weight
three days). Other options include Mefloquine loss, night sweats and tiredness.
and Quinine but the side effects of these at
treatment doses make them less desirable. Typhoid
Fansidar is no longer recommended. Note This serious bacterial infection is spread
that malaria throughout South Asia is resist- via food and water. It gives headaches and a
ant to Chloroquine. high and slowly progressive fever, and may
 400 I N PA K I S TA N • • T r a v e l l e r ’ s D i a r r h o e a lonelyplanet.com

be accompanied by a dry cough and stomach Altitude Sickness

pain. It is diagnosed by blood tests and treated If you are going to altitudes above 3000m
with antibiotics. Vaccination is recommended you should get information on preventing,
for all travellers spending more than a week recognising and treating altitude sickness.
in Pakistan. Be aware that vaccination is not The biggest risk factor for developing altitude
100% effective so you must still be careful with sickness is going too high too quickly – you
what you eat and drink (see opposite). should follow a conservative acclimatisation
schedule and you should never go to a higher
TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA altitude when you have any symptoms that
This is by far the most common problem affect- could be altitude-related.
ing travellers – between 30% and 70% of people Mild symptoms include headache, lethargy,
will suffer from traveller’s diarrhoea within dizziness, difficulty sleeping and loss of appe-
two weeks of starting their trip. In over 80% of tite. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) may be-
cases it is caused by a bacteria, and therefore come more severe without warning and can be
responds promptly to treatment with antibiot- fatal. Severe symptoms include breathlessness,
ics (whether you use antibiotics will depend on a dry, irritative cough (which may progress to
your situation – how sick you are, how quickly the production of pink, frothy sputum), severe
you need to get better, where you are etc). headache, lack of coordination and balance,
Treatment consists of staying well hydrated; confusion, irrational behaviour, vomiting,
rehydration solutions like Gastrolyte are the drowsiness and unconsciousness.
best for this. Antibiotics such as Norfloxacin, Treat mild symptoms by resting at the same
Ciprofloxacin or Azithromycin will kill the altitude until recovery, which usually takes
bacteria quickly. a day or two. Paracetamol or aspirin can be
Loperamide is just a ‘stopper’ and doesn’t taken for headaches. If symptoms persist or
get to the cause of the problem. It can be become worse, however, immediate descent
HEALTH

helpful, eg if you have to go on a long bus is necessary; even 500m can help. Drug treat-
ride. Don’t take Loperamide if you have a ments should never be used to avoid descent
fever, or blood in your stools. Seek medical or to enable further ascent.
attention quickly if you do not respond to an The drugs acetazolamide and dexametha-
appropriate antibiotic. sone are recommended by some doctors for
the prevention of AMS; however, their use is
Giardiasis controversial. They can reduce the symptoms,
This parasite is relatively common in trav- but they may also mask warning signs; severe
ellers. Symptoms include nausea, bloating, and fatal AMS has occurred in people taking
excess gas, fatigue and intermittent diarrhoea. these drugs.
‘Eggy’ burps are often attributed solely to giar- Follow the following tips to prevent acute
dia, but they are not in fact specific to giardia. mountain sickness.
The parasite will eventually go away if left Ascend slowly – have frequent rest days,
untreated but this can take months. The treat- spending two to three nights at each rise
ment of choice is Tinidazole; Metronidazole of 1000m.
is a second-line option. It is always wise to sleep at a lower al-
titude than the greatest height reached
ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS during the day, if possible. Also, once
Air Pollution above 3000m, care should be taken not
If you are travelling in urban environments to increase the sleeping altitude by more
in Pakistan, air pollution is something you’ll than 300m per day.
become very aware of. Pollution causes minor Drink extra fluids. The mountain air is
respiratory problems such as sinusitis, dry dry and cold and moisture is lost as you
throat and irritated eyes, and can aggravate breathe.
coughs and colds. If you have severe respi- Eat light, high-carbohydrate meals.
ratory problems such as asthma speak with Avoid alcohol and sedatives.
your doctor before travelling to any heavily
polluted urban centres; you’re also advised to Food & Drink
bring appropriate medication in case it can’t Eating in restaurants is the biggest risk fac-
easily be found in Pakistan. tor for contracting traveller’s diarrhoea.
lonelyplanet.com I N PA K I S TA N • • W o m e n ’ s H e a l t h 401

Ways to avoid it include eating only freshly Lice inhabit various parts of your body but
cooked food, avoiding shellfish, and avoid- most commonly your head and pubic area.
ing food that has been sitting around in Transmission is via close contact with an in-
buffets. Peel all fruit, cook vegetables, and fected person. They can be difficult to treat
soak salads in iodine water for at least 20 and you may need numerous applications of
minutes. Eat in busy restaurants with high an anti-lice shampoo such as permethrin.
customer turnover. Ticks are contracted by walking in rural
areas. They are commonly found behind the
Heat ears, on the belly and in armpits. If you have
Parts of Pakistan are hot and humid through- had a tick bite and experience symptoms such
out the year. For most people it takes at as a rash at the site of the bite or elsewhere,
least two weeks to adapt to the hot climate. fever, or muscle aches you should see a doctor.
Swelling of the feet and ankles is common, Doxycycline prevents tick-borne diseases.
as are muscle cramps caused by excessive Scorpions are found throughout South
sweating. Prevent these problems by avoid- Asia. Although usually easily spotted and
ing dehydration and excessive activity in the avoided, they tend to turn up in articles of
heat. Don’t eat salt tablets (they aggravate clothing – especially shoes – if you’re camp-
the gut), but drinking rehydration solution ing. Treat a scorpion bite by flushing with cold
or eating salty food does help. Treat cramps water, applying an ice pack and bandaging the
by stopping activity, resting, rehydrating with area firmly. If severe pain or swelling occurs,
double-strength rehydration solution and seek medical attention immediately.
gently stretching.
Dehydration is the main contributor to WOMEN’S HEALTH
heat exhaustion. Symptoms of heat exhaus- Pregnant women should receive specialised
tion include feeling weak, headaches, irrita- advice before travelling. The ideal time to

HEALTH
bility, nausea or vomiting, sweaty skin, a fast, travel is in the second trimester (between
weak pulse and a normal or slightly elevated 16 and 28 weeks), when the risk of preg-
body temperature. Treatment involves getting nancy-related problems is at its lowest and
out of the heat and/or sun, fanning the victim pregnant women generally feel at their best.
and applying cool, wet cloths to the skin, lay- During the first trimester there is a risk of
ing the victim flat with their legs raised, and miscarriage and in the third trimester com-
rehydrating with water containing a quarter plications such as premature labour and
of a teaspoon of salt per litre. Recovery is usu- high blood pressure are possible. It’s wise
ally rapid but it’s common to feel weak for to travel with a companion. Always carry a
days afterwards. list of quality medical facilities available at
Heatstroke is a serious medical emergency. your destination and ensure you continue
Symptoms come on suddenly and include your standard antenatal care at these facili-
weakness, nausea, a hot, dry body with a body ties. Avoid rural travel in areas with poor
temperature of over 41ºC, dizziness, confu- transportation and medical facilities. Most
sion, loss of coordination, fits and eventual of all, ensure travel insurance covers all
collapse and loss of consciousness. Seek medi- pregnancy-related possibilities, including
cal help and commence cooling by getting the premature labour.
person out of the heat, removing their clothes, Malaria is a high-risk disease in pregnancy.
fanning them and applying cool, wet cloths WHO recommends that pregnant women do
or ice to their body, especially to the groin not travel to areas with Chloroquine-resist-
and armpits. ant malaria. None of the more effective anti-
Take sunscreen with you, as it can be hard malarial drugs are completely safe to take
to obtain outside big cities. during pregnancy.
Hepatitis E is a particular problem in preg-
Insect Bites & Stings nant women – if it is contracted in the third
Bedbugs don’t carry disease but their bites are trimester, 30% of women and their babies
very itchy. They live in the cracks of furniture will die.
and walls and then migrate to the bed at night Traveller’s diarrhoea can quickly lead to
to feed on you. You can treat the itch with dehydration and result in inadequate blood
an antihistamine. flow to the placenta. Many of the drugs used
 402 I N PA K I S TA N • • W o m e n ’ s H e a l t h lonelyplanet.com

to treat various diarrhoea bugs are not rec- all contribute to thrush. Treatment is with
ommended in pregnancy. Azithromycin is antifungal creams and pessaries such as
considered safe. Clotrimazole, or a single tablet of Fluconazole
In the urban areas of Pakistan, sanitary (Diflucan). Urinary tract infections can be
products are readily available. Birth-control precipitated by dehydration or long bus
options may be limited so bring adequate journeys without toilet stops; bring suitable
supplies. Heat, humidity and antibiotics can antibiotics.
HEALTH
 403

Language
(Ishkoman, Yasin, Ghizar and Chitral); and
Balti (Baltistan).
CONTENTS In this chapter we’ve included a list of
common words and phrases in these lan-
Urdu 403 guages, as well as Urdu and Chinese.
Balti 405 If you really want to make the most of
Burushaski 406 your trip, get a copy of Lonely Planet’s Cen-
Khowar 407 tral Asia Phrasebook, which includes all the
Kohistani 407 languages of the region, plus communica-
Mandarin 408 tion and cultural tips.
Pashto 409
Shina 410 What About English?
Uyghur 411 The entire top echelon of the Pakistani civil
Wakhi 412 service speaks English, so if you can’t make
yourself understood anywhere else, try a
government or police official. English is
WHO SPEAKS WHAT WHERE? rarely used in western Xinjiang, except by a
Urdu is the ‘national language’ of Pakistan, few educated officials. It’s common in
although fewer than 10% of Pakistanis larger towns of the Northern Areas and
speak it as a first language. This may be widespread in Rawalpindi and Islamabad.
explained by the fact that Pakistanis speak
over 300 dialects of some two dozen lan-
guages. Urdu sounds much like Hindi, the URDU
speech of north India, but it is written in a
Urdu is an acquisitive language, swallowing
modified Arabic script.
whole phrases verbatim from Persian, Ara-
Travelling down the Karakoram High-
bic, English, wherever. You’ll have no trouble
way (KKH) is like passing through half-a- with plet (plate), machiz (matches) and
dozen tiny countries. Every few hundred even the word for you, the foreigner – angrez
kilometres you find not just another dialect (‘English’, no matter where you’re from).
but a new language. In addition to the two For a more detailed guide to grammar,
‘national’ languages of Urdu and Mandarin pronunciation and phrases, pick up Lonely
Chinese, there are at least seven other com- Planet’s Hindi, Urdu & Bengali Phrasebook.
LANGUAGE

mon tongues, from three different linguis- The home-grown Teach Yourself Urdu in
tic families. Persian is also understood to Two Months (Noor Publishing House, Kara-
some extent throughout the region. chi) is available in Pakistani bookshops.
You can get by with Urdu and Chinese
basics, especially in official situations, but ACHAAH
neither is native to Xinjiang or the North- The word for ‘good’ (achaah) is Urdu’s all-
ern Areas, and both languages are often purpose expression. Depending on the con-
used with a degree of reluctance. Even the text and tone of voice it can also mean ‘as
most garbled attempts at local speech can you wish’, ‘I understand’, ‘I agree’, ‘right’,
reward you out of all proportion to what ‘really?’ and more.
you’re actually trying to say.
The predominant regional languages of ASALAAM ALEIKUM
the KKH are Uyghur (Kashgar, Tarim The nice thing about this general Muslim
Basin); Wakhi (Tashkurghan, Gojal); Buru- (Arabic) greeting, which means ‘Peace be
shaski (Hunza); Shina (lower Hunza, Gilgit, with you’ – and is sometimes used for de-
Punial, Astor, Chilas); Kohistani (Indus partures too – is that it can help break the
Kohistan); Pashto (Besham, Swat and ice in any situation. The reply to an older
northern Hazara); Khowar or Chitrali or respected person is to repeat the phrase;
 404 L A N G UA G E • • U r d u lonelyplanet.com

to anyone else, it’s wa aleikum salaam (‘and How are you? aap kairiyat se hai?
with you too’). Everything’s fine/OK. sab teek hai.
Goodbye. kudaa haafiz
BAS See you again. pir milege
‘Enough’ (bas) is a useful multipurpose
word for when you’ve had enough tea, There is no word for ‘please’, but adding the
crowds, silly questions etc. Saying it twice – word jee to names and other words makes
bas bas! – gives it an edge. them extra polite, eg shukriyaa jee, assal-
aam aleikum jee.
PRONUNCIATION
Urdu is generally written in a modified Thank you. shukriyaa
form of the Persian-Arabic script. Repre- Special thanks. mehrbaanee
senting the language in the Roman alphabet Excuse me. maaf keejiye
is a difficult exercise, as there are many No problem. koee baat nahee
sounds in Urdu that don’t exist in English. Yes. jee haa
If the transliteration system is to be simple No. jee nahee
to use, some compromise is unavoidable. In Do you speak kyaa aapko angrezee aatee hai?
the following list of words and phrases we English?
have reduced the number of sounds repre- I don’t understand. mai nahee samjaa/samjee (m/f)
sented, but the meaning should still be clear I can’t read Urdu. urdu parnaa nahee aataa.
through context. The distinction between What’s your name? aapkaa naam kyaa hai?
short and long vowels has been retained, as My name is ... meraa naam ... hai
this is a particularly important part of the What’s the name of is jaga kaa naam kyaa hai?
Urdu language. this place?
Where are you going? aap kahaa jaa (rahe/rahee)
Vowels haee? (m/f)
a as in ‘sun’
Is there a bus to kyaa aaj (gilgit) ko bas
aa as in ‘father’
(Gilgit) today? jaayegee?
e as in ‘bet’
ai as the ‘a’ in ‘bad’ What time does it go? vo kitne baje jaayegee?
i as in ‘sit’ Where is (the GPO)? (GPO) kahaa hai?
ee as in ‘beet’ Where are you from? aap kahaa (ke/kee) hai? (m/f)
o as in ‘both’ I’m from ... mai ... (kaa/kee) hoo (m/f)
au as in ‘haul’ Do you serve food? kyaa yahaa kaanaa
u as in ‘put’ miltaa hai?
oo as in ‘food’ Do you have (time)? kyaa aapke paas (vaqt) hai?
Is there (hot water)? kyaa (garm paanee) hai?
I (don’t) want tea.
LANGUAGE

Consonants muje chaay (nahee) chaahiye.

ch as in ‘church’ How much is this? kitne (rupiye/paise)?
q as the ‘k’ in ‘king’ He is my husband. ye mere shauhar hai.
r a flap of the tongue She is my wife. ye meree beevee hai.
God willing inshaallaa
ACCOMMODATION Stop! rukiye!
hotel hotal
inn/guesthouse musaafirkaana shop dukaan
nightwatchman chaukeedaar mosque masjid
room kamraa Ismaili prayer hall jamaat-kaana
bed palang hospital aspitaal/shifaa-kaana
bedding bistar luggage saamaan
key chaabee candle mombattee
water heater geezar soap saabun
bathroom guslkaana, paakaana map naksha

CONVERSATION, WORDS & PHRASES hot/cold garam/garm/tandaa

Peace be with you. asalaam aleikum expensive/cheap mahegaa/sastaa
Sir/Madam janaab/begam left/right baayaa/dahinaa
lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • B a l t i 405

ill beemaar 90 nabbe

a little toraa 100 sau
next aglaa/aglee/agle 200 do sau
next bus aglee bas 1000 hazaar
another doosraa 100,000 ek laak (written as 1,00,000
another bus doosree bas in Pakistan)
this/that ye/vo 10,000,000 ek kror
enough/stop bas
here/there yahaa/vahaa TIME
When? (day/date) kab?
NUMBERS When? (at what time?) kitne baje?
Urdu number-words don’t have the regu- What time is it? kitne baje hai?
larity of English, so try to do things in For how long? kitnee der ke liye?
round numbers! Don’t confuse 25 and 50, today aaj
or 7 and 60. To add half to a number (ex- tomorrow kal
cept 1 or 2) precede it with sarre (eg 3 ½ is now ab
sarre-teen); this is common with prices and (three) o’clock (teen) baje
time. half-past (four) saare (chaar) baje
Laak (hundred thousand) and kror (10 morning subah
million) are used for big numbers. Once afternoon/evening do pehar/shaam
into the thousands, large written numbers
have commas every two places, not three.

1 ek
BALTI
1½ der The Balti language is similar to classical
2 do Tibetan, which has four levels of speech:
2½ daaee to/between common people; to/between
3 teen honoured or revered people; colloquial; and
3½ saare teen literary. The colloquial is dominant in
4 chaar Baltistan. Stress is indicated in the follow-
4½ saare chaar ing words and phrases by capitals.
5 panch
6 chai CONVERSATION, WORDS & PHRASES
7 saat Hello. (polite) asalaam aleikum
8 aat Hello. (informal) ZHUleh
9 nau Hello. (in passing, or to shokhs/shakhsa
10 das person arriving)
LANGUAGE

11 gyaarah How are you? chi hal yod?

12 baarah Fine. LYAKHmo yud
13 terah Goodbye. huDARyi faghRING
14 chaudah Thank you/Please. Azhu
15 pandrah Yes/No. YAya/men
16 solah What’s your name? YIri MENtakh chi in?
17 satrah My name is ... ni MENtakh ... in
18 attaarah Where are you going? yang gar gwen yod?
19 unnees How much/many? tsam?
20 bees Where is ...? ... gar yod?
25 pachchees I’m hungry/ill. nga LTOKHsed/natPA yod
30 tees Come!/Go! ong!/song!
35 paitees I don’t eat meat. nga sha za MED
40 chaalees respected man YEri PYAKHbo (your honour)
50 pachaas respected woman Asheh (elder sister)
60 saat’h (puff of breath o after ‘t’) good/bad LYAKHmo/chaangMEN
70 sattah hot tronMO (weather)/tso (thing)
80 assee cold grakhMO
 406 L A N G UA G E • • B u r u s h a s k i lonelyplanet.com

left/right khen/trang context. Fortunately, simple ideas can be

home nang managed without too much difficulty!
(your) village (YIri) grong Hunza and Nagar dialects are slightly
toilet chaqSA different – eg a common form of ‘be’ is bila
in Hunza but dila in Nagar. The double
FOOD & DRINKS vowel oo is pronounced as in ‘moon’. Stress
food/meal zaan (something to eat: zachas) is indicated in the following words and
eat za phrases by capitals.
wholewheat bread kurba
curry SPAQchas CONVERSATION, WORDS & PHRASES
meat sha Hello. leh
beef baSHA Goodbye. khooDA haFIZ/khooDAyar
mutton raSHA How are you? beHAL biLA?
chicken byaSHA I’m fine. je shooWA ba
vegetable TSONma Thank you. bakhSHISH
rice bras Yes/No. aWA/beYA
egg byabJON Maybe. MEImi
yogurt LOQfi onGA I’m sorry. maf Eti
tea cha What’s your name? BEHsan gooik biLA?
water chu My name is ... ja aik ... biLA
boiled water SKOLfi chu Where are you from? oom Amilim ba?
Do you speak English? anGREZi JOOchi biLA?
NUMBERS What’s the name of kooteh disheh besan ik bila?
1 chik this place?
2 ngis Do you have (tea)? (chai) bila?
3 sum How much does this BEHsan koi mad biLA?
4 bji cost?
5 gha Where is ...? ... Amili biLA?
6 trook I only eat vegetables. ja SIroof hoi SHEHchaba
7 dun I’m lost. aWAlaam
8 bgyad Go away! ni!
9 rgu
10 fchu single/double room hin/alTAN SIseh KAmara
20 ni shu key chei
30 sum fchu room kamera
40 ni shu ngis toilet chooKAANG
LANGUAGE

50 gha fchu
60 ni shu sum FOOD & DRINKS
70 ni shu sum na fchu food SHIas
80 ni shu bji apple balt
90 ni shu bji na fchu apricot joo
100 bgya dried apricot bahTERing
1000 stong dry cheese kooroot
egg tiGAN
food, bread shapik
BURUSHASKI meat
noodle soup
chaap
daoodo
Burushaski is spoken in central Hunza, rice briw (Nagar)/bras (Hunza)
upper Nagar, Yasin, Ishkoman and north- white cheese booroos
ern Chitral. Its origins are obscure, but it wholewheat bread phitti
may be the KKH region’s oldest language. vegetable hoi
Its difficult structure makes it nearly im- yogurt dooMAnoo maMOO
possible for outsiders to master; there are
said to be 38 plural forms, and words buttermilk diltar
change form at both ends depending on grape wine mel
lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • K h o w a r 407

milk maMOO bad shum

mulberry spirits arak bread shapik
tea chai meat pushoor
milk tea mamoo chai water oogh
green tea sabaz chai
water tsil today hanoon
drinking water minas tsil tomorrow choochi
yesterday dosh
NUMBERS
1 han NUMBERS
2 alTO 1 yi
3 oosKO 2 ju
4 WALto 3 droi
5 tsoonDO 4 chor
6 miSHINdo 5 ponj
7 taLO 6 choi
8 alTAMbo 7 sot
9 hoonCHO 8 osht
10 TOroomo 9 niu
20 ALtar 10 jiush
30 Altar TOroomo 20 bishir
40 alTO ALtar 100 shor
50 alTO ALtar TOroomo
60 isKI ALtar
70
80
isKI ALtar TOroomo
WALti ALtar
KOHISTANI
90 WALto ALtar TOroomo Kohistani is spoken in northern Swat and
100 ta Indus Kohistan. It’s a mish-mash of Shina,
1000 saas Pashto, Urdu, Persian and other languages,
and varies from one village to the next.
TIME Shina or Pashto may work just as well.
What time is it? BEHsan KANdila? Stress is indicated in the following words
It is (10) o’clock. mu (TORimi) GHAribi and phrases by capitals.
When? BEHshal?
today KHULtu CONVERSATION, WORDS & PHRASES
tomorrow JImeleh Hello. asalaam aleikum
Goodbye. huDAR haWAla
LANGUAGE

yesterday saBUR
now mu Good. suGA/mihta
Thank you. shukria
Yes/No. ah/ni
KHOWAR FOOD & DRINKS
Khowar (Chitrali) is the speech not only of bread gwel
Chitral proper, but of Ishkoman, Yasin and egg aNA
Ghizar on the Gilgit side of the Shandur meat maSU
Pass. milk chir
tea chai
How are you? tu keecha asoos? vegetable sabzi
Very well, thanks. bojam, shukria water vi/wi
Please. mehrbanni khori yogurt dudi
Yes/No. dee/no
Where is (Drosh)? (drosh) kura sher? NUMBERS
A little. kam 1 ek
bed jen 2 du
(very) good (bo) jam 3 cha
 408 L A N G UA G E • • M a n d a r i n lonelyplanet.com

4 sawur them in the following words and phrases,

5 paz but you have a good chance of making
6 sho yourself understood through the context of
7 saat your conversation.
8 aat
9 naan/nau NEGATION
10 daash Negation can be expressed by adding bu (or
20 bish occasionally mei, as in the all-too-familiar
100 shol mei you, ‘we don’t have any’), before adjec-
1000 zir tives and present-tense verbs.

TIME QUESTIONS
today aaz A phrase becomes a question if you add ma
tomorrow okot to the end of it, eg ni dong (you understand),
now uskeh ni dong ma? (do you understand?). You can
(two) o’clock (du) masma also make a question by juxtaposing posi-
tive and negative forms, eg yao bu yao?
(‘want-not-want?’, meaning ‘do you want
MANDARIN it?’), you mei you? (‘have-not-have?’, mean-
ing ‘do you have it?’), hao bu hao? (‘good-
Mandarin (or putonghua, ‘people’s speech’) not-good?’, meaning ‘OK?’).
is China’s official language, the dialect of
Beijing and the speech of bureaucrats. Basic CONVERSATION, WORDS & PHRASES
spoken Mandarin is surprisingly easy: there In the following words and phrases, some
are no conjugations, no declensions, and pronunciation guidelines have been in-
the word order is like English – just string cluded (in brackets) after some the trickier
them together. The hard parts are pronun- Pinyin letters and combinations.
ciation and tones.
For a compact and comprehensive trav- Hello. (are you well?) ni hao
eller’s guide to Mandarin, pick up a copy of Goodbye. zaijian
Lonely Planet’s Mandarin Phrasebook. Please. qing
Thank you. xiexie
PRONUNCIATION Excuse me .... dui bu qi ... (dway-bu-chee)
Mainland China’s official Romanised ‘alpha- Yes. (correct) dui. (dway)
bet’ is called Pinyin. It’s very streamlined, No. (not correct/not so) bu dui/bu shi
but the sounds aren’t always self-evident. Do you speak English? ni hui shuo yingyü ma?
The letters representing consonants that A little bit.
LANGUAGE

yi dian-dian (yee dyen-dyen)

don’t sound quite the way they do in English I can’t speak wo bu hui shuo putonghua
are listed below. Mandarin.
Do you understand? ni dong ma?
Consonants I don’t understand. wo ting bu dong
q (‘ch’); x (‘sh’); zh (‘j’); z (‘dz’); c (‘ts’); r (your language)
(tongue rolled back, almost ‘z’) I can’t read that. wo kan bu dong
(Chinese characters)
Vowels Where are you going? qu na li?/qu nar?
a (‘ah’); er (‘ar’); ui (‘oi’ or ‘wei’); iu (‘yoh’); Where are you from? ni cong nali lai de?
ao (‘ow’ as in ‘now’); ou (‘ow’ as in ‘low’); e I’m from ... wo cong ... lai de
(‘uh’ after consonants); ü (say ‘ee’ with your Where is (the toilet)? (cesuo) zai na li?
mouth rounded as if to say ‘oo’); ian (‘yen’); Do you have (hot (kai shui), you mei you?
ong (‘oong’); u (‘oo’, or sometimes like ü). water)?
I (don’t) have rice. wo (mei) you fan
Tones I (don’t) want tea. wo (bu) yao cha
A given word can have many meanings de- How much is it? duo-shao qian?
pending on pitch changes in the voice. Too expensive! tai gui-le!
Tones are tricky and we haven’t marked Is it allowed? ke bu keyi? (kuh bu kuh-yee)
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Wait a moment. deng yi huar (dung yee hwar) 4 si 四

No problem. mei guanxi (may gwan-shee) 5 wu 五
6 liu 六
good/bad hao/huai 7 qi (chee) 七
expensive gui (gway) 8 ba 八
left/right zuo/you 9 jiu 九
open (for travel) kaifang (kye-fung) 10 shi (shr) 十
broken huai-le (hwy-luh) 11 shi yi 十一
here/there zhe-li/na-li 20 er shi 二十
21 er shi yi 二十一
Toilets cèsuǒ 厕所 30 san shi 三十
Men nán 男 100 yi bai 一百
Women nǚ 女 200 liang bai 二百
1000 yi qian (... chyen) 一千
ACCOMMODATION & SERVICES
dormitory sushe (su-shuh) TIME
double room shuang ren fangjian When? (date) ji hao?
guesthouse binguan When? (time) ji dian?
hotel (cheaper) lüguan today jintian
key yaoshi (yow-shr) tomorrow mingtian
shower linyu (leen-yü) yesterday zuotian
single room dan-ren fangjian
now xianzai (shyen-dzai)
(five) o’clock (wu)-dian
airmail hang-kong
half-past (eight) (ba)-dian ban
bank yinhang
(three) hours (san)-ge xiaoshi (... shyow-shr)
hospital yiyuan
money qian (chyen)
half an hour ban-ge xiaoshi
RMB renminbi
US dollar meiyuan For days of the week, use xingqi (shing-
post office you-ju (yoh-jü) chee) plus a number (Monday = 1 through
Public Security Bureau gong-an ju Saturday = 6; for example, xingqi wu is Fri-
stamp you-piao day). Sunday is xingqi tian.
telephone dianhua (dyen-hwa)
toilet
toilet paper
cesuo (tsuh-swoh)
weisheng zhi (way-shung jr) PASHTO
TRANSPORT Pashto is the speech of the Pashtuns in east-
ern Afghanistan and Pakistan’s North-West
LANGUAGE

airport feiji chang

bicycle zixingche (dzih-sheeng-chuh) Frontier Province. Though there are some
bus qiche (chee-chuh) regional differences in pronuncation be-
bus station qiche zhan tween the Swati and Afghan dialects (eg the
Karakoram Highway zhong-pa gong lu northerners call themselves Pakhtun, the
map ditu southerners Pashtun), this is still the lingua
ticket to (Ghez) dao (ghez) de piao franca (linking language) from the Indus to
train station huoche zhan Kabul. Along the KKH you’ll hear it (mixed
truck dakache with other dialects) in Besham, Batagram
and Mansehra. Stress is indicated in the
NUMBERS following words and phrases by capitals.
The simplest (though not always gram-
matically precise) way to count is (number)- Hello. asalaam aleikum
ge-(object); eg ‘two people’ is liang-ge ren. Welcome. pakhair
How are you? sa hal dey?/singa hal dey?
-½ ban Fine. khey ma
1 yi/yao 一/幺 Where are you going? chertha zey?
2 er/liang 二/两 Goodbye. de khuday pe aman
3 san 三 (person leaving)
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Goodbye. pa makha de ha Fine. mishto han/mehrbani

(person staying) Please. mehrBAni teh
Thank you. shukhria Thank you. bakhSHISH
Yes/No. au/na Yes/No. aWA/neh
very good (der) khey Maybe. beBEY
expensive/cheap gran/arzan What’s your name? tei jek nom han?
My name is ... mei nom ... han
FOOD & DRINKS Where are you from? tu KONyo haNO?
egg ay I’m from ... ma ... haNOOS
food doreh/roti Do you speak English? toot anGREzi wa nah?
meat wakha I don’t understand. ma (neh) paRUdus
tea with milk sur chai How much is it? jek garch han?
tea without milk tor chai Where is ...? ... kon han?
vegetable sabzi I like (Gilgit). mas (gilgit) paSANtamus
(cold) water (yakha) ubuh I only eat vegetables. mas SIruf SHAkamus

NUMBERS single room ek muSHAI KAmara

1 yau double room ek du muSHO KAmara
2 dua
3 drei FOOD & DRINKS
4 salor food koig
5 pinze
apricot jeroti
6 shpag
dried apricots faTOR
egg haNEH
7 uwo
food/bread tiki
8 ata
meat moz/mots
9 haha
rice briw
10 las salt paJU
100 sel (sawa) wholewheat bread chupatti/dudurtik
1000 zer vegetable sha
yogurt MUtu dut
TIME milk dut (rhymes with ‘put’)
today nan tea chai
tomorrow sabah water wei
yesterday paroon
day after tomorrow bel sabah NUMBERS
now os 1 ek
LANGUAGE

later rusto 2 du
3 cheh
4
SHINA 5
char
poe (nasal e)
6 sha
Shina is spoken in lower Hunza and Nagar 7 saat
(below the KKH bridge near Minapin); 8 aash
Gilgit and its valleys (Naltar, Bagrot, Hara- 9 nau
mosh and the upper Gilgit River watershed); 10 dai
Chilas and northeast Indus Kohistan. Mean- 20 bi
ings are often dependent on tones, so only 30 bigaDAI
the simplest words are given here. Stress is 40 DUbyo
indicated in the following words and 50 DUbiga DAI
phrases by capitals. 60 SHAbyo
70 SHAbyoga DAI
CONVERSATION, WORDS & PHRASES 80 CHARbyo
Hello. aLA 90 CHARbyoga DAI
Goodbye. huDA haFIZ 100 shal
How are you? je kal han? 1000 saas
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TIME Sorry/Excuse me/ KEchurong

What time is it? je ken han? Forgive me.
It’s (10) o’clock (dai) baSHEGen Yes. shunDAQ
When? gaREH? No. yak
today aach Maybe. belKIM
tomorrow lushTEH Please. merheMET
yesterday baLA Where are you going? NÄga BARsiz?
now ten Where is (the (biKET) khaYERde?
at once dahm station)?
What’s the name of buYARnung isME niME?
Monday tsanDUra this place?
Tuesday anGAro How much is it? QANche pul?
Wednesday BOdo What’s your name? isMUNGuz NIme?
Thursday beRESpat
My name is ... MInung isMEM (jan)
Friday SHUkura
I (don’t) understand. chüEN (MI) dem
Do you have (tea)? (chay) BARmo?
Saturday shimSHER
We do/don’t. bar/yok
Sunday aDIT
Please give me (piVE) birUNG
(a beer).
UYGHUR I don’t eat meat.
I (don’t) like Kashgar.
güsh yiMEY men
qashQAR-ne YAKHshi
Uyghur is spoken all over Xinjiang and in KÜR(mey)men
parts of Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan. It’s a I’m lost. IZip QALdim
Turkic language salted with words from Go away! ket!
Chinese, Mongol, Kyrghyz, Uzbek, Wakhi,
hotel MIHmankhana
Russian, Urdu, Arabic and Persian. In
cheap room erZAN yaTAQ
China, written Uyghur uses an Arabic
single/double room bir/Iki kshLIK yaTAQ
script, although for a time children were
dormitory küp kshLIK yaTAQ
taught a Romanised alphabet. For more bed karVAT
Uyghur vocabulary, get a copy of Lonely key achKUCH
Planet’s Central Asia Phrasebook. The public toilet khaLA
words and phrases in this section reflect the Chinese money yuan/kuai (‘koi’)/jiao/mao (‘mo’)
Kashgar dialect. guide yolbashCHE
The letter a is as in ‘father’, while ä is like hospital DOKtorkhana
the ‘a’ in ‘hat’. The letter o is as in ‘go’, while police sakhCHE
ö is pronounced as the ‘e’ in ‘her’, but with post office poshtKHAna
LANGUAGE

lips well rounded. The letter u is as in ‘put’, shop duKAN

while ü is pronounced as the ‘i’ in ‘bit’ with Sunday market YENGa baZAR
the lips rounded and pushed forward. The
letter combination gh is a guttural ‘r’ sound, good/bad YAKHshi/yaMAN
as in French or Hebrew, while kh sounds expensive khumMET
like the ‘ch’ in ‘Bach’. The letter q is like left/right sol/ong
English ‘k’, pronounced deep in the throat. this/that bu/Awu
The majority of words are accented on the here/there buYER/uYER
last syllable. Stress is indicated in the fol- north janOP
lowing words and phrases by capitals. south shiMAL
east shärq
CONVERSATION, WORDS & PHRASES west ghärp
Greetings. (pol) äsaLAmu äLEYkum
Hello/How are you? yakhSHImo siz? TRANSPORT
I’m well/happy. men YAKHshi bus apTUZ
Goodbye. khayr khosh bus station/stop apTUZ biKET
Thank you (very (küp) räkhMÄT ticket biLET
much). bicycle vilSPIT
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FOOD & DRINK When/At what time? sa’ET KANche de?

food taMAQ at (five) o’clock (besh) de
restaurant/food stall ashKHAna today büGÜN
bread nan tomorrow Äte
bagel gzhde yesterday TÜnegün
flat-bread akNAN now HAzir
fish biLIQ
noodles laghMÄN Monday dushemBE
fried rice & meat plo/poLA Tuesday seyshemBE
meat güsh Wednesday charshemBE
beef kaLA güshE Thursday peyshemBE
chicken toHO güshE Friday juMÄ
mutton qoy güshE Saturday shemBE
steamed rice gangPEN Sunday yekshemBE
vegetable sey
yogurt QITik
apple
fig
ALma
enJÜ
WAKHI
grapes üzÜM Wakhi is the speech of the Wakhi tribe of
melon khoGHON Tajik people in Gojal and Afghanistan’s
watermelon TAvuz Wakhan Corridor. It’s very similar to the
peach shapTUL speech of other Tajiks in the Tashkurgan
pear aMUT region and Tajikistan.

beer piVE CONVERSATION, WORDS & PHRASES

tea chay Hello. asalaam aleikum
water su Goodbye. khudar hafiz
boiled water khayNAQ su How are you? chiz hawli?/baaf ateya?
I’m well. uzum baaf
NUMBERS Yes/No. yau/nei
-½ YERim Please. mehrboni
1 bir Thank you. shobosh
2 Iki Excuse me/Sorry. mofsar
3 üch What’s your name? ti noongi chiz?
4 tüt My name is ... zhu noongi ...
5 besh Where are you from? tut koom dyoren?
I’m from ... uzum ...
LANGUAGE

6 alTE
7 yeTE Do you speak English? torezh angrezi vizta?
8 seyKIZ I (don’t) understand. mazhe malum tei/(nahst)
9 toQUZ Where is ...? ... kumar?
10 ön I don’t know. dishma
20 yigirME How much (is it)? yem chizi tsumrer?
30 otTUZ I want (tea). uzesh (choiyeh) zokh-tsaram
40 QURuk I don’t eat meat. uzesh gusht nei yowem
50 elLIK I’m lost. mazhe hu fdek nost
60 atMISH Go away! trabarech!
70 yetMISH
80 sekSEN bed pipr
90 tokhSAN guesthouse mehmonkhona
100 yüz hotel hoteli
1000 mung room jayi
single/double room yi/bu khaalgeh pipr
TIME Wakhi-style khikwor-khun
What’s the time? sa’ET KANche BOLde? key weshik
It’s (six) o’clock. (ALte) BOLde guide fdek disuv nikuz
lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • W a k h i 413

market bozor tomorrow pigha

shop dukon yesterday yezi
toilet tarkank now niveh
very ghafeh
good/bad baaf/shaak Monday dushambi
left/right chap/rost Tuesday sishambi
this/that yem/ya Wednesday chorshambi
here/there drem/dra Thursday panshambi
north shumaal Friday juma
south jnu Saturday shambi
east mashriq Sunday yekshambi
west maghrib
NUMBERS
FOOD & DRINKS 1 yiu
restaurant shapik yiteh jai
2 bui
apple mur
3 trui
apricot chuan
4 tsebur
egg tukhmurgeh
5 panz
food/bread shapik
meat gosht
6 shal
rice gerangeh 7 hoob
vegetable ghazk 8 haat
wholewheat bread kamishdoon/dildungi 9 nau
yogurt pai 10 thas
20 wist
buttermilk deegh 30 wista-thas
milk bursh 40 buwist
tea choi 50 buwista-thas
water yupek 60 truwist
70 truwista-thas
TIME 80 tseburwist
What time is it? tsumar wakhti vitk? 90 tseburwista-thas
When? tsoghdar? 100 saad
today wuthk 1000 hazor
LANGUAGE
 414

Glossary
The glossary contains some of the words chappals – sandals or leather thong-like footwear
and terms you may come across during charas – resin of the marijuana plant; also referred to as
your time in Pakistan. For definitions of ‘hashish’
food and drink see p62. charbagh – formal Persian garden, divided into quarters
(literally ‘four gardens’)
ablation valley – small valley that runs parallel to the charpoy – simple bed made of ropes knotted together on
glacier at its margins a wooden frame
Allah – God chhish – mountain (Burushaski)
amir – chieftain, nobleman; also called emir chinkara – gazelle
an – mountain pass (Khowar) chital – spotted deer
Aryan – those who migrated to the northern subconti- chogha – embroidered, sometimes ceremonial, woollen
nent from Persia cloak with oversize sleeves common in the North-West
asalaam aleikum – Muslim greeting, literally ‘peace be Frontier Province (NWFP) and Northern Areas
with you’; the usual response is wa aleikum salaam, ‘and chowk – town square, roundabout, major intersection or
with you too’ marketplace
autorickshaw – noisy, three-wheeled, motorised chowkidar – caretaker; night watchman
contraption for transporting passengers, livestock, bags of crore – 10 million
grain etc for short distances; cheaper than taxis
Ayurveda – ancient and complex science of Indian herbal dacoit – bandit, outlaw
medicine and healing dak – staging post; government-run accommodation
azad – free (Urdu), as in Azad Jammu & Kashmir dargah – shrine or place of burial of a Muslim saint
azan – Muslim call to prayer dhaba – basic restaurant or snack bar
dhobi – person who washes clothes
badgir – traditional tower built beside houses in certain dhobi ghat – place where clothes are washed
semidesert regions, eg Thatta, to funnel in breezes dhol – traditional, large, two-sided Punjabi drum
bagh – garden dholki – a smaller version of the dhol
baksheesh – donation (alms), tip or bribe dhurrie – rug
bar – river, valley or stream (Burushaski) dum pukht – traditional steam-pressure cooking
begum – respectful title for a Muslim woman (usually technique that uses a clay pot
of high rank) dupatta – long scarf for women worn with the shal-
bhang – dried leaves and flowering shoots of the war kameez; used as head and chest cover in mosques,
marijuana plant conservative company, bazaars etc
bhangra – rhythmic Punjabi music/dance durbar – royal court; also a government
bidi – small, hand-rolled cigarette
biradari – clan emir – chieftain, nobleman; also called amir
brak – mountain or mountain pasture (Balti) Eve-teasing – sexual harassment
burka – one-piece garment used by conservative Muslim
women to cover themselves from head to toe fakir – member of any religious order of Islam; a Muslim
buzkashi – Afghan variant of horse polo, traditionally who has taken a vow of poverty
played with a goat’s head or carcass (or these days, often a
replica) instead of a ball gah – river, valley or stream (Shina); place (Persian)
gali – mountain pass (Shina)
cantonment – administrative and military area of a gang – glacier (Balti)
Raj-era town ganja – dried flowering tips of marijuana plant
GLOASSARY

caravanserai – basic accommodation traditionally for geyser – hot-water unit found in many bathrooms
camel caravans; also called serai ghat – steps or landing on a river, range of hills, or road
chador – lightweight woollen blanket often worn as up hills
a shawl by Pakistani men and sometimes doubling as a ghazal – Urdu song derived from poetry; poignant love
blanket, pillow, curtain etc theme
chaikhana – teahouse ghazi – warrior of Islam
 G L O S S A R Y 415

gol – river, valley or stream (Khowar) Line of Control (LoC) – boundary dividing Pakistan-
gomukh – glacier (Shina) administered and India-administered Kashmir
gree – col or depression in a chain of mountains (Khowar) lungma – river, valley or stream (Balti)
gulli – lane or alleyway
gurdwara – Sikh temple mahal – house or palace
Guru Granth Sahib – Sikh holy book maharaja – literally ‘Great King’; Hindu or Sikh princely
ruler
haghost – mountain pass (Burushaski) maharani – wife of a princely ruler or a ruler in her own
haj – Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca right
hammam – public bathhouse and barbershop; Turkish bath malik – (title of ) a Pashtun tribal chief
haveli – traditional residence or mansion, often ornately masala – mix (often spices)
decorated masjid – mosque
Hejira – flight of the Prophet Mohammed from Mecca to maulana – see maulvi
Medina on 16 July AD 622; this is the reference for dates in maulvi – mullah, (title of ) an Islamic cleric of any rank;
the Islamic calendar, designated AH, ‘After Hejira’ also called maulana
hijab – headscarf mazar – Islamic grave
hijra – eunuch, transvestite Mehtar – princely ruler (Chitral)
hiran – deer mela – fair or festival
hujra – Pashtun village guesthouse mihrab – mosque ‘prayer niche’ that faces Mecca
mir – (title of ) traditional rulers of Hunza and Nagyr
iftar – breaking of the Ramazan fast at sunset miri – citadel
imam – Muslim religious leader Moghul – see Mughal
imam barga – special meeting hall used only for the Mohajir – one of the millions of Urdu-speaking Muslims
Shiite festivals of Ashura and Chhelum who fled from India at Partition (1947), settling mainly
in sha’ Allah – Arabic for ‘If God wills it’, almost a stand- around Karachi (Sindh)
ard part of the future tense in Islamic countries monsoon – rainy season
moraine – mass of rocks left by a glacier; along a
jamaat khana – Ismaili community hall, their closest glacier’s margins (a lateral moraine), in its centre (a medial
equivalent to a mosque moraine) and at its mouth (a terminal moraine)
jami masjid or jami mosque – generic name for muezzin – one who calls Muslims to prayer, traditionally
mosque used for Friday prayers from the minaret of a mosque
jenab – respectful title for a man, along the lines of ‘Sir’ Mughal – Muslim dynasty of subcontinental emperors
jihad – holy war from Babur to Aurangzeb
jirga – council of tribal elders Mughlai food – recipes influenced by the Mughals;
typical of North Indian cuisine
kafir – Islamic term for a heathen or nonbeliever mullah – Muslim scholar or religious leader
karez – old, subterranean water channels used for musafir khana – literally ‘traveller’s place’, cheap
irrigation travellers’ inn with charpoys and basic meals
Khan – Muslim honorific title Muslim – adherent of the Islamic faith
khana – food muztagh – literally ‘ice mountain’ in Turkic languages, a
khayaban – boulevard or avenue, eg Khayaban-i- cluster of the highest peaks of the Karakoram, from which
Suhrawardy means Suhrawardy Avenue the major glaciers descend
khel – clan
khizdi – tent nala – stream, river or valley
khussadar – tribal guard or levy namaz – Muslim prayers
khwar – tributary stream or valley (Pashto) nautch – dance
Koran – see Quran nautch girls – dancing girls; these days most nautch girls
kotal – pass (Pashto) are essentially prostitutes
kucheri – law courts (sometimes kutchery) nawab – Muslim prince or powerful landowner
GLOSSARY

kurta – long shirt with short collar or no collar nazim – a local government’s chief elected official
nilgai – antelope
la – mountain pass (Balti)
lakh – 100,000 pamir – glacially formed high-elevation valleys renowned
levies – rural police drawn by the local feudal chief from as summer grazing grounds
his own tribe or clan pani – water
 © Lonely Planet Publications
416 G L O S S A R Y

parao – traditional stage or length of a day’s march, used serai – cheap travellers’ inn, often with charpoys and
to calculate porters’ wages basic meals; also called caravanserai
Parsi – adherent of the Zoroastrian faith; also spelt shahadah – Muslim declaration of faith (‘There is no God
Parsee but Allah; Mohammed is his prophet’)
Partition – formal division of British India into two shahrah – road, eg Shahrah-i-Iqbal means Iqbal Rd
separate countries, India and Pakistan, on 14 August 1947 shalwar kameez – traditional dresslike tunic and
Pashtun – member of one of the interrelated tribes on trouser combination with styles for both women and men;
both sides of the Pakistan–Afghanistan border; southern sometimes spelt/pronounced salwar qamiz
tribespeople usually call themselves Pukhtun sharia – Islamic law
Pathan – a corruption (probably from Urdu) of Pashtun sitar – Indian stringed musical instrument
or Pukhtun Sufi – Muslim mystic
PCO – Public Call Office; where you can make local, Sufism – Islamic mysticism
interstate and international telephone calls Suzuki – a tiny Suzuki utility with a flimsy canopy for
piala – small bowl in which chanaki is served cheap, cramped intra-city transport.
pietra dura – marble inlay work
pir – holy man; (title of ) a Sufi saint tabla – twin drums
pish – dwarf palm used for handicrafts tangi – gorge
PTDC – Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation technical – referring to climbing or mountaineering skills
Pukhtun – see Pashtun and techniques required to complete a route
purdah – custom among some conservative Muslims of tempo – noisy, three-wheeler public-transport vehicle;
keeping women in seclusion; veiled bigger than an autorickshaw
tiffin – snack or meal container, often made of stainless
qawwali – Islamic devotional singing steel; snack
qila – fort tonga – a two- or four-wheeled horse-drawn cart used
Quaid-i-Azam – ‘Great Leader’, Pakistanis’ honorific title for public transport
for Mohammed Ali Jinnah, the founder of Pakistan true left – the actual left bank of a river when facing
Quran – the holy book of Islam; also spelt Koran downstream
true right – the actual right bank of a river when facing
raj – rule or sovereignty downstream
Ramazan (Ramadan) – the Islamic holy month of
sunrise-to-sunset fasting (no eating, drinking or urs – death anniversary of a revered person
smoking); most commonly referred to as Ramazan in uween – mountain pass (Wakhi)
Pakistan
wallah – man; added onto anything, eg dhobi-wallah,
sahib – respectful title applied to a man taxi-wallah; not as widely used in Pakistan as in India
samadhi – shrine
sardar – hereditary title granted to certain tribal chiefs zakat – charitable donation, the third Pillar of Islam
and nobles in Muslim areas by the British zamindar – powerful landowner
sarhad – frontier; capitalised, it refers to the North-West zherav – river, valley or stream (Wakhi)
Frontier Province (NWFP) ziarat – shrine
GLOSSARY

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
421

Index
A Saidu Sharif 209-12, 210 Barikot 213
Abakh Hoja Tomb 325 Taxila 88-90, 89 Barpu Glacier 353
Abbottabad 245-9, 246 architecture 53-4 Barsat 284
accommodation 364-6 area codes, see inside front cover Barsin 263
activities 366, see also individual army 34-6 Basant 110
activities arts 52-6, see also individual arts Basha Dam 265
acute mountain sickness (AMS) Artush 330 Basho 286
341, 400 Ashoka, Emperor 237, 249-50 Basho Valley 291-2
Afghan border 154 Ashoka Rocks 249-50 Batagram 256-7

INDEX
Afghan refugees 46 Askur Das 306 bathrooms 377-8
Afiyatabad (New Sost) 314-15, 314 Astor Valley 268-70, 269 Batrik 232, 344
AIDS 398 Astor village 268 Battakundi 255
air pollution 70 Athmaqam 185 Batura Glacier 356-7, 7
air travel 382-3 ATMs 373 bazaars 376, 6
airlines 382-3 Avdegar 355-6, 355 Bazira 213
airports 382-3 Avgarch 313-14 begging 50
tickets 383 Awami League 32 Begum Shah Mosque 105
to/from Pakistan 383-5 Ayub National Park 80 Besham 258-9, 258
to/from the KKH 394 Azad Jammu & Kashmir 181-6, 182 Beyal 349
within Pakistan 388-9 earthquake 183 Bhitai, Shah Abdul Latif 52, 176
Akbar 27 Bhong Mosque 126-7
Akbari Mosque 179 B Bhurban 92-3
Alai Valley 259-61, 260 Baba Ghundi Ziarat 316 Bhutto, Benazir 35, 39, 51
alcohol 60 Baba Wali Kandahari 90 Bhutto family 38-9
Alexander the Great 26 Babur 27 Bhutto, Zulfiqar Ali 38, 39
Ali Masjid 200 Babusar Pass 255-6, 267 bicycle travel, see cycling
Aliabad 298-9 Badshahi Mosque 103-5 bird-watching 66
All-India Muslim League 29-30 Bagh 186 Birir Valley 233
Allergological Asthma Resort Bagrot Valley 271-2, 271 Birmogh Lasht 227-8
138 Bahawalpur 121-5, 122 Biyabari 347
Altit Fort 305 Bahrain 215-16 boating 167, 366, 4
altitude sickness 400 baksheesh 373 Boibar Valley 313
Aminabad 313 Bala Hisar Fort 194 Bolan Pass 153
Anarkali 106 Balakot 253 books
Andra Fort 309 Balanguru 231-2 cooking 58
animals 65-7, see also individual Baloch people 37, 44-5 health 397
animals Balochistan 139-56, 141 history 32, 34, 38, 40
endangered species 66-7 Balti 405-6 literature 53
Anish 232 Baltistan 284-94, 361-3, 285 politics 31, 32, 34, 38, 40
Archaeological Museum of Balochistan Baltit, see Karimabad travel 17-18
(Quetta Museum) 145 Baltit Fort 300, 301 wildlife 66
archaeological sites Baltoro Glacier trek 362 border ceremony 120
Banbhore 174-5 Banbhore 174-5 border crossings 385-8
Ha Noi 330 Bangladesh 31-2 Borit Lake 309, 312
Harappa 134-5 Banjosa 186 Brahui people 45
Lower Swat 213 Bannu 203 British East India Company 28
Makli Hill 175 Bar Palas 262 British Raj buildings 166
Mardan Plain 205-6 Bar Valley 295-6 British rule 28-9
Mehrgarh 153-4 bargaining 374 Brun 232
Moenjodaro 176-9, 178 Bari Imam Shrine 79 Bualtar Glacier 353
 422 Index (B-E)

Bubulimating 305 Channan Mela 126 Darkot 283

Buddhist sites Channan Pir 126 Darra Adam Khel 202-3
Chakdara 217-18 Chaprot Valley 295 Dasu 262
Chilas 267 Chapursan Valley 315-16, 6 Data Ganj Bakhsh 106
Ghaligai Buddha 213 Charsadda 207 Davdar 318
Gilgit region 280 Chashi 283 deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 397
Jamal Garhi 206 Chatorkhand 283 Defence Housing Authority Mosque
Kashmir Smats 206-7 Chattar Plain 265 (Masjid-i-Tuba) 166-7
Mirpur Khas 176 Chaukundi 174 deforestation 69-70
Peshawar 191 Chikar 186 dehydration 401
Sacred Rocks at Hunza 306 Chilas 265-7, 266 dengue fever 397
Saidu Sharif 210-11 child labour 50 Deosai Plains 291
Shahbaz Garhi 206 children, travel with 367 Deosai Plains National Park 69
Shatial 263 Chimirsan Ghari 343 Dera Ghazi Khan (DG Khan) 133-4
INDEX

Shigar 292 China Friendship Rd 317 Dera Ismail Khan (DI Khan) 203-4
Takht-i-Bahi 206 China–Pakistan Highway 317 Dera Nawab Sahib (Dera Nawab)
Taxila 88-9 Chirah 271 126
Three-Immortals Caves 330 Chitral district 220-34, 221 Derawar Fort 126
Udegram 213 people 190 diarrhoea 400
Zarai 200 trekking 341-6 digital photography 375
Bulunkul Dobey 321 Chitral Festival 370 Dih 317
Bumboret Valley 232-3 Chitral Gol National Park 68-9, 228 Dir district 217-20, 208
Bunar Das 267 Chitral Town 222-7, 223 Dir town 218-19, 219
Bundiwalum 346 Choar 260 Diran Peak 272
Buni 233 Cholistan 125-6 disabilities, travellers with 378
Burawai 255 Chowa Dara valley 262 Doni An 342-3
Burushaski 406-7 Chughtai, Abdur Rahman 108 Doni Ghari 342
bus travel Chughtai Museum 108-9 Donson Pass 344-5, 344
on the KKH 393-4 cinema 53 dress 43
to/from Pakistan 387 climate 15-16, 367, 368 drinks 60
within Pakistan 389-90 clothing 381 driving, see car travel
business hours 366-7, see also inside computer repairs 117 Drosh 222
front cover consulates 370 drugs 51, 196, 369
corruption 50-2 Dubair Valley 261
C costs 17 Duikar 305
camping 365 trekking 337 Durand Line 32, 37, 189
car travel credit cards 374 Dut 313
driver hire 390-1 cricket 56-7
on the KKH 394 culture 41-57 E
rental 390 customs regulations 367-9 earthquakes 64, 183
to/from Pakistan 386 cycling 366, 385, 389 economy 49-52
within Pakistan 390-1 Babusar Pass & Kaghan Valley 255 Edara 320
carpets 55-6 Kashgar to Islamabad 242-4 Edhi, Abdul Sattar 161
Central Karakoram National Park on the KKH 392-3 Edhi Foundation 161
68, 286 safety 393 Edicts of Ashoka 206
Chaghbin 228 Eidgah Mosque 131
Chakdara 217-18 D electrical repairs 117
Chakhchun 293 Dadar 256 electricity 365
Chalt 295-6, 297 Dainyor 280-2 email, see internet access
Chaman 154 Daman-e-Koh 77-9 embassies 370
Changa Manga Wildlife Reserve 121 dance 55 emergencies, see inside front cover
Dandai 258 energy shortage 70
000 Map pages dangers 16-17, 369 environmental issues 65, 69-70
000 Photograph pages Dar 272 erosion 70
Darel 263-5 etiquette 43
 Index (E-H) 423

events, see festvials Muzaffarabad Fort 184 Shani Glacier 351

exchange rates, see inside front cover Naghar Fort 220 Siachen Glacier 36, 293
Qasim Bagh Fort 129-30 Tarashing Glacier 270
F Ranikot Fort 176 global warming 65
Fa Hsien 257 Red Fort 184 Gojal 307-17, 308
Fairy Meadow 267, 348-9, 348 Rohtas Fort 137-8 trekking 355-61
Faisalabad 136-7 Sehwan Sharif 176 Gokhshal An 342
Faiz Ahmed Faiz 52-3 Shah Makkai (Hyderabad) Fort 175 Gol 292
Faqir family 106 Shahgai Fort 200 golden marmot 66
festivals 370-1 Shahi Fort 213 Golpigol 346
Baisakhi Festival 90 Sheikhupura 120 Gomenah 345
Basant 110 Tashkurgan Fort 318-19 government resthouses 365
Channan Mela 126 fundamentalism 47-8 Great Game, the 30
Chitral 222, 370 Great Thar Desert 176

INDEX
Eid-Milad-un-Nabi 371 G Grom 231-2
Eid-ul-Azha (Adha) 371 Gaddani beach 174 Guchesham 357
Eid-ul-Fitr 371 Gakuch 283 guesthouses 366
Islamic 371 Galis, the 92-3 Gujars 240
Kalasha 231 Gandhara 26, 27, 88, 188, 191, Gulagmuli 284
Mela Chiraghan 110 205-6, 207 Gulmit 308-10, 309, 311
Nauroz (Navrus) 370 Ganish 306 Gulmit Glacier 309
Ramazan 371 Garam Chashma 228 guns 51, 196
Shandur Cup (Polo Festival) 370 Gargoh 272 Gupis 283
Shandur Pass 276 Gashuchi 346 gurdwaras
Sibi Mela 152 Gazin Glacier 346 Gurdwara Janamasthan Nankana
urs of Data Ganj Bakhsh Hajveri gay travellers 371-2 121
110 Genghis Khan 237 Gurdwara of Arjan Dev 105
film 53 geography 63-5 Guru 233
fishing 366 geology 64 Guru Nanak 90, 121
food 58-62, 371 Ghaligai Buddha 213 Gwadar 156
customs 61 Ghashumaling 295
etiquette 43 Ghazni, Mahmud of 237 H
glossary 62 Ghez 321 Ha Noi 330
Hunza 304 Ghizar 283-4 haggling 374
restaurants 60-1 Ghora Dhaka 92-3 Halal 61
vegetarian travellers 61 Ghowari 292 Haleji Lake 175
foreigner’s registration 378 Ghulkin Village 309 Halmat 185
Fort Munro 134 Ghulmet 297, 298 handicrafts 55
forts giardiasis 400 Hanna Lake 150
Altit Fort 305 Gilgit region 263-84, 264 Haramosh Valley 271, 271
Andra Fort 309 Gilgit town 272-80, 273 Harappa 134-6
Bala Hisar Fort 194 Gilgit Uprising 275 Haripur 245
Baltit Fort 300, 301 Gittidas 256 Hasan Abdal 90
Chilas Fort 265 glacial warfare 36 Havelian 245
Chitral Fort 224-5 glaciers Hazara 244-57, 245
Derawar Fort 126 Baltoro Glacier 362 Hazarganji-Chiltan National Park
Jamrud Fort 200 Barpu Glacier 353 150-1
Kalam Darchi 361 Batura Glacier 356-7, 7 health 395-402
Karpochu Fort 288 Bualtar Glacier 353 diseases 397-400
Katkala 218 Gazin Glacier 346 insurance 395-6
Khar 134 Gulmit Glacier 309 trekking 341
Kot Diji 180 Mulungutti Glacier 313 vaccinations 396
Lahore Fort (Shahi Qila) 102-3, Pakora Glacier 351 websites 397
103 Passu Glacier 311 hepatitis 398
Mir Chakar’s Fort 153 Raikot Glacier 348 heroin 51
 424 Index (H-K)

Hill Stations 185-6 Indian Uprising 28 Jalalabad 271

Hinarche Harai 347 Indian wild ass 65 Jamal Garhi 206
Hindu sites Indus Kohistan 257-63, 257 Jami Masjid al Sadiq 122
Great Thar Desert (Tharparkar Indus River dolphin 65, 67 Jamrud Fort 200
Desert) 176 Indus Valley civilisation 177, 180 Jehangir’s Tomb 108
Hasan Abdal 90 insurance 372 jewellery 56
Kashmir Smats 206-7 health 395-6 Jhandrot 283
Ketas 138 internet access 372 Jhelum 137
Hindukush range 63, 64 internet resources 18 Jhelum Valley 185-6
Hinglaj 154-5 air tickets 383 Jinnah, Mohammed Ali 29, 151
Hingol National Park 154-5 environment 68 joshanda 106
Hiran Minar 120 health 397
Hispar La trek 362 history 26, 35 K
history 26-40 news 28 kabbadi 57
INDEX

Bangladesh 31-2 wildlife 67 Kachura Lake 291

books 32, 34, 38, 40 Iqbal, Allama Mohammed 29, 52, 105 Kaghan 254
British, the 28-9 Iqbal, Begum Sarfraz 49 Kaghan Valley 251-5, 267, 252
contemporary 40 Irshad Pass 316 Kalam 216-17
Independence 29-31 Ishkoman 283 Kalam Darchi 361
Indus civilisation 26 Islam 41, 46-8, 238 Kalasha people 45-6, 228-30
internet resources 28 history 27, 28 Kalasha valleys 228-33, 229
Karakoram Highway 237-9 holy days 371 Kalat 154
Kashmir 32-4 Ismailis 310 Kamaris 309
Kushans 26 radical Islam 47-8 Kandia Valley 263
Mauryas 26 Shiites 46 Kara Kul 320-1
military rule 34-6 Sufism 47 Karachi 159-73, 162-3, 165
Mughals 27 Sunnis 46 accommodation 168-70
Partition 29-31 Islamabad 71-93, 72, 74-5 activities 167-8
hitching 391 accommodation 80-3 attractions 164-7
HIV 398 activities 80 Clifton Beach 167
Hodur 265 attractions 77-9 drinking 171
holidays 372 drinking 85 entertainment 171
Hon Pass 354 food 83-4 internet access 161
Hoper 307 history 72 medical services 161
horse trekking 275 internet access 73 shopping 171-2
hot springs 228 medical services 73 tourist information 164
Hotan 330 shopping 85-6 travel to/from 172-3
Houbara bustard 67 tourist information 77 travel within 173
Hudood Ordinance 47 travel to/from 86-7 Karakoram Highway (KKH) 235-330,
Humbrok 293, 362-3, 362 travel within 87-8 236, 7
Hund 207 Ismailis 310 geology 64
Hunza 294-307, 349-54, 295 itineraries 19-25 history 237-9
Hunza Valley 294, 5 Chitral to Peshawar 24 itineraries 20, 23
Hushe Valley 293-4 Gilgit to Chitral & the Kalasha people 239-40
Hussaini 311 valleys 22 safety 237, 240-1
Hyderabad 175-6 Karakoram Highway 20 Kargah Buddha 280
Karakoram Highway to Swat 23 Kargah Nala 280
I Khyber Pass & the Grand Trunk Karimabad (Baltit) 299-305, 299
Id Kah Mosque 325 Road 19 Karphok 292
Ilyasi Mosque 247 shrines & mosques 24 Karpochu Fort 288
Independence 29-31 trekking 25, 332-4 Kashgar 322-30, 317, 323
accommodation 326-7
000 Map pages J attractions 324-6
000 Photograph pages Jaglot 268 food 327-8
Jagran Nala 185 internet access 322
 Index (K-M) 425

medical services 322 Anarkali 106 Mahabat Khan Mosque 194

permits 323 attractions 102-9 Mahmud of Ghazni 237
safety 324 drinking 115-16 Makli Hill 175
shopping 328 entertainment 116 Makran, the 155-6
tourist information 323-4 festivals 110 Malakand Pass 207
travel to/from 328-9 food 113-15 Malam Jabba 213-14
travel within 329-30 internet access 97-9 malaria 398-9
Kashmir 32-4, see also Azad Jammu Mall, the 106-8 Manchhar Lake 176
& Kashmir medical services 99 Mandarin 408-9
earthquake 64 Old City 105-6 Manghopir 174
Kashmir Smats 206-7 shopping 116-17 Mangla Reservoir 186
Kawai 253 tourist information 101 Mankial Khwar 216
Kayal Valley 262 travel to/from 117-19 Manora Island 167
Kekyor 320 travel within 119-20 Mansehra 249-51, 250

INDEX
Kel 185 Lahore Fort (Shahi Qila) 102-3, 103 maps 373
Keris 292 Lake Dudipat 255 trekking 336-7
Ketas 138 Lake Lulusar 255 Marco Polo sheep 67
Khalti Lake 283 Lake Saiful Mulk 254 Mardan 204-5, 204
Khan, AQ 38 lakes Margalla Hills National Park 79
Khan, General Ayub 34 Borit Lake 309, 312 Margalla Pass 88
Khan, General Mohammed Yayha 34 Haleji Lake 175 Marghazar Valley 214
Khan, Nusrat Fateh Ali 54 Hanna Lake 150 Masherbrum Peak 293
Khanian 254 Kachura Lake 291 Mastuj 234
Khaplu 292-3 Kara Kul 320-1 Mausoleum of Bibi Jawindi 127
khattak 55 Khalti Lake 283 measles 399
Khewra 138 Lake Dudipat 255 medical services 397, see also health
Khowar 407 Lake Lulusar 255 Mehrgarh 153-4
Khunjerab National Park 69, 317 Lake Saiful Mulk 254 Mendi 286
Khunjerab Pass 307-17, 308, 317 Manchhar Lake 176 metric conversions, see inside front
Khuzdar 154 Naltar Lake 351 cover
Khwazakhela 214 Rama Lake 268-9 Michni checkpoint 201
Khyber Pass 200-2, 8 Rati Gali Sar 185 military rule 34-6
itineraries 19 Rush Phari 352-63 Minapin 298, 298
Khyber Railway 202 Satpara Lake 290-1 Minar-i-Pakistan 105
Khyber Village 313 Subri Lake 185 Mingora 209-12, 209
Kil 316 Lal Suhanra National Park 69, 125 Mintaka Pass 360-1
Kilik Pass 360-1 Landi Kota 201 Mintaka Valley 318
Kipling, Rudyard 29, 107 Langar Valley 284 Mir Chakar’s Fort 153
Kirmin 316 language 403-13 Mirpur 186
Kohat 203 food vocabulary 62 Misgar 316-17
Kohistani 407-8 Latobah 270 mobile phones 377
Koksil 317 Leepa Valley 186 Moenjodaran Script 180
Komila 262 legal matters 372-3 Moenjodaro 176-9, 178
Kot Diji 180 lesbian travellers 371-2 Mohajir Quami Movement (MQM)
Kotli 186 Liachar Nala 267 36-7
Krakal 232 literature 52-3, see also books Mohajirs 36, 45
Kulalai 216 travel 17-18 money 17, 369, 373-5, see also inside
Kundal Shahi 185 Loralai 155 front cover
Kundyak An 345, 344 Lowari Pass 219-20 monsoon 16
Lukkay Gutte (Asota) 207 Morkhun 313
L mosques
Lady Finger 305 M Akbari Mosque 179
Lahore 96-119, 98, 100, 8 Machiara National Park 185 Ali Masjid 200
accommodation 110-13 Madaglasht 222 Badshahi Mosque 103-5
activities 109 Madyan 214-15, 215 Begum Shah Mosque 105
 426 Index (M-P)

mosques continued museums Hazarganji-Chiltan National Park

Bhong Mosque 126-7 Archaeological Museum of 150-1
Defence Housing Authority Mosque Balochistan (Quetta Museum) Hingol National Park 154-5
(Masjid-i-Tuba) 166-7 145 Khunjerab National Park 69, 317
Eidgah Mosque 131 Bahawalpur Museum 123 Lal Suhanra National Park 69, 125
etiquette 43 Banbhore 174 Machiara National Park 185
Id Kah Mosque 325 Chakdara 218 Margalla Hills National Park 79
Ilyasi Mosque 247 Chitral Museum of Archaeology & Shandur-Hundrup National Park 284
Jami Masjid al Sadiq 122 Ethnology 225 Nauroz (Navrus) 370
Mahabat Khan Mosque 194 Chughtai Museum 108-9 Neelam Valley 185
Mosque of Wazir Khan 105 Command & Staff College Museum Neelam village 185
Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque) 102 145 newspapers 52, 365
Shah Faisal Mosque 77 Defence Housing Authority Mosque Niazi, General 32
Shah Jahan Mosque 175 (Masjid-i-Tuba) 166-7 Nichagh 346
INDEX

Shahi Masjid (Grand Mosque) 225 Faqir Khana Museum 106 Nilt 297
Sunehri Masjid (Golden Mosque) Geological Survey of Pakistan Nimogram 213
105 Museum 145 North-West Frontier Province
Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque) 102 Gulmit Cultural Museum 308 187-234, 188
motorcycle travel Harappa 135 safety 189, 203
on the KKH 394 Kal’as’a Dur 232 Northern Areas 238-9
to/from Pakistan 386 Lahore Museum 107 nuclear weapons 38
within Pakistan 390-1 Lok Virsa Museum 77 Nur Jahan 108
Mt Ilam 214 Mardan 204-5 Nurpur Shahan 79
Mt Kongur 320 Moenjodaro 179
mountains National Museum of Pakistan 164 O
Bubulimating 305 Pakistan Air Force (PAF) Museum Oshikandas 271
Diran Peak 272 166
Dobani 268 Pakistan Army Museum 80 P
Haramosh 268, 271 Pakistan Maritime Museum 166 painting 54-5
Kampire Dior 294 Peshawar 194 Pakistan Army Museum 80
Lady Finger 305 Sibi Museum 153 Pakistan Monument 77
Masherbrum Peak 293 Swat 210 Pakistan Tourism Development
Miranjani Peak 93 Taxila 88-9 Corporation 378
Mt Khalifat 151 Musharraf, President Pervez 33-4, 35 Pakora Pass 350-1, 350
Mt Kongur 320 music 53 Pakpattan 136
Mukshpuri Peak 93 qawwali 104 Palas Valley 262
Muztagh Ata 320 Muzaffarabad 183-4 Pamiri 359-60
Nanga Parbat (Diamir) 268-70, Muzaffarabad Fort 184 Panjnad Head 128
346 Muztagh Ata 320 Paras 254
Rakaposhi 351, 352 Partition 29-31
Rush Peak 353 N KKH 238
Shani 351 Naghar Fort guesthouse 220 Pashto 409-10
Shimla Peak 247 Nagyr 294-307, 349-54 Pashtuns 37-8, 44, 190
Spantik (Ganesh Chhish) 353 Nagyr village 307 passes
Ultar 353-5 Naltar Valley 281-2, 281 Babusar Pass 251, 255-6
Tupopdan 310 Nanga Parbat (Diamir) 268-70, 346 Bolan Pass 153
Mountbatten, Lord Louis 30 Naran 254-5 Donson Pass 344-5, 344
Mughals 27 Nathiagali 93 Gojal 307-17
mujaheddin 40 National Museum of Pakistan 164 Hon Pass 354
Multan 128-33, 129 national parks 68-9 Irshad Pass 316
Murree 91-2 Ayub National Park 80 Khunjerab Pass 307-17, 308
Central Karakoram National Park Kilik Pass 360-1, 360
000 Map pages 68, 286 Lowari Pass 219-20
000 Photograph pages Chitral Gol National Park 68-9, 228 Malakand Pass 207
Deosai Plains National Park 69 Margalla Pass 88
 Index (P-S) 427

Mintaka Pass 360-1, 360 Q Reshit 316

Pakora Pass 350-1, 350 Qasim Bagh Fort 129-30 restaurants 60-1
Shandur Pass 284 Qasim, Mohammed bin 27 rockfall 369
Shangla Pass 214 qawwali 104 Rohri 179-80
Thui An 345-6, 345 Quaid-i-Azam Mausoleum 164-6 Rohtas Fort 137-8
Passu 310-13, 311 Quetta 142-50, 143 Rukn-i-Alam, Sheikh 130
Passu Ghar 312 accommodation 146-7 Rumbur Valley 231-2
Patriata 92 activities 145-6 Rupal Valley 270
Pattan 261, 261 attractions 145 Rush Peak 353
people 42-6 drinking 148
Chitral district 220 entertainment 148 S
permits 378-9 food 147-8 safety 16-17, 369
Azad Jammu & Kashmir 181 internet access 144 Azad Jammu & Kashmir 181
Balochistan 140 medical services 144 Balochistan 140

INDEX
Kalasha valleys 225 shopping 148-9 cycling 393
trekking 337 tourist information 144-5 hitching 391
Peshawar 190-200, 191, 192, 195, travel to/from 149 KKH 237, 240-1
201 travel within 150 Lahore 102
accommodation 196-7 NWFP 189
attractions 193-6 R Punjab 96
food 197-8 rabies 399 Quetta 145
internet access 193 radio 365 Sindh 159
medical services 193 Rahim Yar Khan 126-7 trekking 339-40
Old City 193-4 Rahman Baba 194-6 women travellers 380
tourist information 193 Rahman, Sheik Mujibur 32, 35, 36 Sahiwal 135
travel to/from 198-9 Raikot Bridge 267 Saidpur village 79
travel within 200 Rajah Bazaar 79-80 Saidu Sharif 209-12, 210
Petroglyphs 267 Rama Lake 268-9 salinity 70
Phander 283-4 Ramazan (Ramadan) 61, 371 salt mines 138
phonecards 377 Raminj 316 Salt Range, the 138
photography 375 Rati Gali Sar 185 Sandeman, Robert 142, 153, 154
Pirali 318 Rawalpindi 71-93, 77, 78 Sarykol Pamir 321
Pishmal 216 accommodation 80-3 Sassi 286
planning 15-18, 369 activities 80 Satpara Lake 290-1
health 395-7 attractions 79-80 Schaller, Dr George 65, 67, 69
holidays 372 drinking 85 sea crossings 385-8
itineraries 19-25 entertainment 85 Sehwan Sharif 176
trekking 331 food 84-6 Shah, Bulleh 52
plants 67-8 history 72 Shah Faisal Mosque 77
poetry 52-3 internet access 73 Shah Jahan Mosque 175
politics 12, 26-40, 47-8 medical services 73 Shahbaz Garhi 206
pollution 69-70, 400 shopping 85-6 Shahgai Fort 200
polo 275, 276, 7 tourist information 77 Shahi Masjid (Grand Mosque) 225
Poonch district 186 travel to/from 86-7 Shaigiri 270
population 42-6 travel within 87-8 Shakarparian 77
postal services 375-6 Red Fort 184 Shandur Cup (Polo Festival) 222,
pottery 56 refugees 37, 44, 46 370
poverty 50 registration 378 Shandur-Hundrup National Park
protected areas 68-9, see also religion 46-8 284
national parks Buddhism 26, 188-9, 237 Shandur Pass 276, 284
public holidays 372 Islam 41, 46-8, 238 Shangla Pass 214
Punial 283 Ismailis 310 Shankardara 213
Punjab 94-138, 95 Shiites 46 Sharakpur Sharif 121
history 95 Sufism 47 Sharan 254
Punjabis 44 Sunnis 46 Sharda 185
 428 I n d e x ( S -T )

Sharif family 38-9 Ziarat of Shah Abdul Latif 176 Thol 297
Sharif, Nawaf 39 Ziarat Rahman Baba 194-6 Thor 265
Shatial 263 Shuthmarg 316 Thowar 286
Shelakui 347 Shutinbar Nala 296 Threadnet Hunza programme 304
Sher-e-Sabz 316 Siachen Glacier 36, 293 Three-Immortals Caves 330
Sherqila 283 Sibi 152-3 Timargarha 218
Shigar 291-2 Sibi Mela 152 time 377
Shimshal Valley 313, 5 Sibi Museum 153 Xinjiang time 318
Shimshal village 313 Sikanderabad 296-7 tipping 373
Shina 410-11 Silk Road 237-8 toilets 377-8
Shinkiari 256 Sinakkar 271 tourist information 378
ship graveyard 174 Sindh 157-80, 158 tours 335
Shishi Valley 222 Sindhis 36, 37, 45 traditions 41-2
Shogran 253 Singhal 283 train travel
INDEX

shopping 376, 6 Skardu 286-90, 287 from Karachi 173

Shrine of Baba Shah Jamal 104 skiing 366 from Peshawar 199
Shrine of Mau Mubarak 179 Smugglers’ Bazaar 196 from Quetta 150
shrines snow leopard 66 from Rawalpindi 87
Baba Ghundi Ziarat 316 solo travellers 376-7 to/from Pakistan 387
Bari Imam Shrine 79 Sost 314-15, 314 within Pakistan 391-3
Gurdwara of Arjan Dev 105 Spantik (Ganesh Chhish) 353 travel to/from Pakistan 382-8
Manghopir 174 sport 56, see also individual sports travel within Pakistan 388-92
Mausoleum of Baha-ud-Din STDs 399 trekking 331-63, 333
Zakaria 130 Subash Plateau 320 Baltistan 361-3
Mausoleum of Bibi Jawindi 127 Subri Lake 185 Chalt 295-6
Mausoleum of Shams-ud-Din Sufism 104 Chitral district 341-6
Sabzwari 130 Sukkur 179 costs 337
Mausoleum of Sheikh Sumer Nala 263 equipment 336
Rukn-i-alam 130 Sunehri Masjid (Golden Mosque) 105 Ghizar 341-6
Mausoleum of Sultan Ali Akbar 130 Sunday Market (Kashgar) 324-5, 6 Gilgit 346-9
Nurpur Shahan 79 Sunnis 46 Gojal 355-61
Panja Sahib 90 Swat district 207-17, 208 guides 337-9
Panja Shah Ziarat 316 people 190 Gulmit 309, 309
Saidu Baba 211 safety 207 Hunza 349-54
Samadhi of Maharaja Ranjit itineraries 332-4
Singh 105 T Nagyr 349-54
Shrine & Mosque of Jalaluddin Taftan 387-8 Passu 310-11, 311
Surkh Bukhari 127 Tagharma Basin 320 permits 337
Shrine of Baba Shah Jamal 104 Takht-i-Bahi 206 porters 335, 337-9
Shrine of Data Ganj Bakhsh Talechi 268 safety 339-40
Hajveri 106 Taliban 38, 40, 47 tours 335
Shrine of Jalaluddin Bukhari 127 Taloybari 296 treks
Shrine of Lal Shah Baz Qalandar Tangir 263-5 Avdegar 355-6, 355
176 Tarashing 270 Baltoro Glacier 362
Shrine of Mau Mubarak 179 Tashkurgan 318-20, 319 Batura Glacier 356-7, 357
Shrine of Sarkhi Sarwar 134 Taxila 88-90, 89 Diran Base Camp 346-7, 347
Shrine of Sheikh Saif-ud-Din telephone services 377 Donson Pass & Kundyak An 344-5,
Ghazrooni 127-8 terrorism 12 344
Tomb of Farid Shakar Ganj 136 Teru 284 Fairy Meadow 348-9, 348
Ziarat of Abdullah Shah Gazi 167 Thakot 258 Gokhshal An & Doni An 342-4,
Ziarat of Mian Abdul Hakim 151 Thalle Lungma 292 343
Thandiani 249 Hispar La 362
000 Map pages Thangus 286 Humbrok 362-3, 362
000 Photograph pages Thatta 175 Kilik & Mintaka Passes 360-1, 361
theatre 55 Pakora Pass 350-1, 350
 © Lonely Planet Publications
I n d e x ( T - Z ) 429

Pamiri 359-60, 360 Chaprot Valley 295 weather 15-16, 367

Rakaposhi Base Camp 351-2, 351 Chowa Dara valley 262 monsoon 16
Rush Phari 352-3, 352 Dubair Valley 261 weights & measures 365
Shimshal Pamir 357-9, 358 Haramosh Valley 271 whitewater boating 366-7
Thui An 345-6, 345 Hushe Valley 293-4 wildlife, see animals
Ultar 353-4, 354 Jhelum Valley 185-6 women in Pakistan 48-9
Tribal Areas 44, 189, 190, 200 Kaghan Valley 251-5, 252 women travellers 379-81
permits 201-2 Kalasha valleys 228-33, 229 health 401-2
tuberculosis 399 Kandia Valley 263 safety 339-40
Turikho Gol 233-4 Kayal Valley 262 trekking 339
turtles 168 Langar Valley 284 World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF)
TV 52, 365 Leepa Valley 186 68, 274, 341, 379
typhoid 399-400 Marghazar Valley 214
Mintaka Valley 318 X

INDEX
U Naltar Valley 281-2, 281 Xinjiang 324
Uch Sharif 127-8 Neelam Valley 185
Udegram 213 Palas Valley 262 Y
Ultar Meadow 305, 354 Rumbur Valley 231-2 Yarkand 330
Upal 322 Rupal Valley 270 Yarkhun Gol 234
Urak Tangi 150 Shimshal Valley 313, 5 Yasin 283
Urdu 403-5 Shishi Valley 222 Yazrich 316
Uyghur 411-12 Yunz Valley 311-12 Yunz Valley 311-12
vegetarian travellers 61 Yusuf Has Hajib 325-6
V visas 378-9
vacations 372 registration 378 Z
vaccinations 396 volunteering 379 Zamzama (Kim’s Gun) 107
valleys Zarabad 311
Alai Valley 259-61, 260 W Zia ul Haq, General 34-5
Astor Valley 268-70 Wagah 387 Ziarat 151-2
Bagrot Valley 271-2, 271 Wah Gardens 90 Ziarat of Shah Abdul Latif 176
Bar Valley 295-6 Wakhi 412-13 Zood Khun 316
Basho Valley 291-2 Wakhi Tajik people 307 zoos
Birir Valley 233 walking, see trekking Bahawalpur 123
Boibar Valley 313 water 398 Lahore Zoo 107
Bumboret Valley 232-3 water shortages 70 Lal Suhanra National Park 69

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