Professional Documents
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Woolworths TASTE - MayJune 2024
Woolworths TASTE - MayJune 2024
& MORE…
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(cheesy mash)
(p 77)
53 N E W- S E A SO N SO U P S , E A SY D I N N E R S & CO M FO R T C L A S S I C S
E AT I N AT
STEYN CITY
Whether you’re in the mood for a casual meal
or a more sophisticated dining experience,
Steyn City offers a diverse array of dining options.
From a coffee shop and pizzeria, to both casual
and sophisticated restaurants, there’s something
to suit various tastes and preferences. Beyond its
culinary offerings, Steyn City stands out as a unique
residential development with expansive 2000 acres
of parkland and a selection of world class leisure
facilities. From golf, cycling and horse-riding to
padel, tennis, and beach volleyball, as well as a
300m lagoon and water activities, this residential
lifestyle estate, ranked among the world’s best,
is unparalleled in its offerings.
Steyn City - come home to extraordinary.
C I T Y C E N T R E A PA R T M E N T S F R O M 2 .7 M
S TA N D S | H O M E S
Nothing beats the rich
of Parmigiano Reggiano,
the only authentic
Parmesan.
Masterfully made in Italy with the same passion, expertise and
dedication as in the 12th century, Parmigiano Reggiano remains
true to its heritage and taste.
Artisan cheese makers use traditional methods of
production distinctive to the area of origin, to create the
only authentic Parmesan cheese.
SIGNATIO
DE
N
OTECTED
OF
ORIGI
PR
• •
www.parmigianoreggiano.com
MAY/JUNE 2024
TASTEMAY/JUNE 2024 5
OFF THE MENU REGULARS COLUMN
page page
44, 130, 14
102
page
92
EXECUTIVE TEAM
CEO Aileen Lamb COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Maria Tiganis STRATEGY DIRECTOR Andrew Nunneley
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Venette Malone CEO MEDIA24 Ishmet Davidson
“I could eat Woolies’ butternut soup “I’m always in search of comforting “I often feel homesick during winter. “I get excited about eating more
(with an extra drizzle of cream) and food, even in summer! In winter, My grandmother’s oxtail stew porridge in winter. It just hits different
a crunchy garlic roll on the side every Irish stew is a favourite, as are curries. and barley soup were always my when it’s colder. My favourite is
night in winter. It never fails to make I also love eating bread-and-butter favourites growing up, so when creamy blue cheese polenta with figs,
me feel comforted and warm.” pudding when it’s colder.” the homesickness hits, that’s what fermented Maltabella, and oats with
– Fatima Saib – Abigail Donnelly I make.” – Lesego Madisa xigugu.” – Khanya Mzongwana
CONVERSION CHART
250 ml = 1 cup 125 ml = ½ cup 65 ml = ¼ cup 15 ml = 1 tablespoon 45 ml = 3 tablespoons
190 ml = ¾ cup 85 ml = ¹⁄ cup 5 ml = 1 teaspoon 30 ml = 2 tablespoons 60 ml = 4 tablespoons
Weber’s new Genesis Smart Grill with Weber Connect smart technology is your secret to perfectly grilled food. Simply set your desired
result and receive notifications when it’s time to flip and serve while you get on with entertaining your guests. Medium-rare steak?
Perfect every time. Weber’s expandable top cooking grate creates a second level so you can cook more at once, while its largest and
hottest sear zone allows you to sear more steaks to create a full restaurant-quality meal in one go. Add an extra-large prep and serving
table and custom grillware, and you’ve got all your bases covered. weber.co.za
FOR LASTING
MEMORIES
WEBER, FOREVER.
this
can
the
EASY
PHOTOGRAPHS
ANDREA VAN DER SPUY
RECIPES AND PRODUCTION
HANNAH LEWRY
FOOD ASSISTANT
JACQUELINE BURGESS
SWAP SHOP
You could also use any of your favourite
seasonal greens or even one of
Woolworths’ convenient stir-fry packs.
Serves 4
EASY
GREAT VALUE Serves 6
Preparation: 20 minutes EASY
Cooking: 15 minutes GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 30 minutes
Woolworths PlantLove fresh firm tofu Cooking: 45 minutes
1 x 350 g carton
Szechuan peppercorns 1 t, toasted green cabbage 1, cut into wedges
and ground olive oil 5 T
black pepper 2 t, toasted and ground cumin seeds 1 T
salt, to taste sea salt and freshly ground black
cornflour 80 g pepper, to taste
vegetable oil, for frying lemon 1, quartered
red onion 1, cut into wedges
For the smashed cucumber: Woolworths Kids pink apples 3, halved
cucumber 1, halved lengthways butter 100 g
rice wine vinegar ½ cup Woolworths pork loin chops 6
caster sugar 2 t rosemary or sage, a few sprigs
sesame oil a few drops
green chilli 1, chopped (optional) For the currant dressing:
Woolworths mixed seedless raisin
For the noodles: and currant selection 80 g
Woolworths PlantLove shiitake the cornflour. Shallow-fry in a little oil until ClemenGold 1, zested and juiced
noodles 2 x 100 g sachets pale golden and crispy. Remove and drain red wine vinegar 1 T
Woolworths shiitake mushrooms on kitchen paper. 4 To make the noodles, dill 1 T chopped
1 x 300 g punnet, sliced cook the noodles according to package
red onion, 1 cut into petals instructions. Pan-fry the mushrooms in a 1 Preheat the oven to 220°C. Toss the
Woolworths fresh edamame little oil, then remove from the pan. Pan-fry cabbage in 3 T olive oil, the cumin seeds
beans 120 g the onion until glossy and tender. Add the and seasoning. Arrange on a baking
fresh coriander, for serving noodles, mushrooms, edamame beans tray with the lemon wedges, onion and
Woolworths fresh Asian sesame and tofu to the same pan and toss with the apples. Dot with butter and roast for
stir-fry sauce 2 x 100 g sachets stir-fry sauce to coat. Serve hot, garnished 25–30 minutes, turning halfway through.
with coriander, with smashed cucumbers 2 Meanwhile, make the currant dressing.
1 Press the tofu between two sheets of on the side. Place the currants in a small pan with the
kitchen paper and weight down with a HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, PLANT-BASED ClemenGold juice and simmer for a few
plate and some canned food while you WINE: Thelema Chardonnay minutes. Remove from the heat and fold
make the smashed cucumber. This releases in the zest, vinegar and dill. Set aside.
any excess liquid. 2 To make the smashed OLD-SCHOOL CLASSIC 3 Fry the pork chops in batches in the
cucumber, smash the cucumber with a CARAMELISED APPLE AND remaining olive oil, herbs and salt until
rolling pin or something heavy to crush it ROASTED RED CABBAGE golden brown and crispy. 4 Serve warm
a little and create rough edges. Tear the WITH SALTY PORK CHOPS with the roasted apple and cabbage
cucumber into small pieces and toss with AND CURRANT DRESSING and currant dressing. Squeeze the roasted
the remaining ingredients. Set aside until “There is something unbeatable about the lemons over the vegetables.
ready to serve. 3 Mix the peppercorns, timeless combination of salty pork, sweet HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND
salt and cornflour. Add more pepper apples and buttery cabbage. I love this with GLUTEN-FREE
if you like more heat. Cut the tofu into Woolworths’ creamy ready-made mash – WINE: Kleine Zalze Old Vine
bite-sized blocks and generously dust in it’s a gamechanger.” Chenin Blanc
Earn bragging rights with the perfect gift-wrapped bottle to give on Mother’s and Father’s
Day. If mom enjoys a dry rosé, impress her with the stone fruit notes of Waterford Rose-
Mary (R149.99). She'll also love the fruity Luxury Astoria Prosecco DOC Gold (R229.99), elegant
Steenberg Pinot Noir Brut Cap Classique (R234.99) and Graham Beck Bliss Nectar Rosé (R214.99),
while Warwick’s Cape Lady Red Blend (R119.99) is as timeless as she is.
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL
Shopping for dad is just as easy with his favourite red, including the Rust en
Vrede Cabernet Sauvignon (439.99), Meerlust Rubicon (R649.99), Alto Cabernet
Sauvignon (R179.99) and La Motte Pierneef Shiraz Viognier (R309.99). Or, add
a fine white to his collection with Spier’s Private Collection Chenin Blanc
(R159.99). woolworths.co.za
A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N
If convenience was a
language, Woolworths
would be fluent. Why make
everything from scratch
when they’ve done half
the work for you? You can
now purchase meal kits for
chilli-garlic prawn pasta
and seafood chowder
at selected Woolworths
seafood counters. All the
descaling, deveining and
debearding has been
done for you. Each kit
comes with everything
you need to make your
seafood dish – sauces,
pasta, seasonings, and
the all-important seafood.
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIREELLEN VAN ROOYEN
Follow the instructions and
dig in! woolworths.co.za
Available in selected stores from 6 May.
A LL TI E D U P It’s not just you – there really are ribbons everywhere. Fresh off the fashion runways, where
the coquette look is à la mode, FoodTokkers are tying fabric around tacos and fries, even threading it through bread.
Each to their own, we say. At TASTE, we’re having fun with edible bows made from baby marrows, carrots and celery.
Case in point, this little snack: place a dollop of Woolies’ new goat’s-cheese cream on a plate, top with shaved baby
marrow styled into ribbons, dust with trout pearls, scatter with crumbled blue cheese, season to taste – and share on
TikTok before taking a bite.
NEW RESTAURANTS
Made to order
Cooking with fire, Mediterranean-inspired fare and dishes made
using homegrown produce on the KZN South Coast are on the
menus of our must-visit restaurants around the country Kayla-Ann’s,
Pennington
After years spent honing her craft
as executive chef at restaurants
including Chef’s Table and Delaire
Graff, South Coast-born Kayla-Ann
Osborn has come full circle with the
opening of her own restaurant in the
Umdoni Conservancy. “People said
we were mad to open a fine-dining
restaurant here,” she laughs. “And
sure, I don’t sleep most nights, but
I can’t believe that I get to live here,
where I grew up, and do what I love.”
It helps that the restaurant is
very much a family affair. Her
brother-in-law, Cairn Hanafey, is head
chef, his brother, Ayrton Hanafey,
runs front of house, and all the
veggies used in the kitchen are
grown by Kayla-Ann’s mom,
Samantha Osborn, who also bakes
their sourdough. The menu is small,
heavily influenced by local produce,
and changes often. A mainstay is the
grilled halloumi starter, comprising
Kayla-Ann’s home-made halloumi
with tomatoes and basil from her
mom’s garden, served on crostini
made from her mom’s sourdough.
kaylaanns.co.za; tel: 071 492 5647
to Spain, Greece and Italy, guests can look forward to small plates of bites such as
chicken Caesar salad croquettes or fresh tuna skewers with miso mayo. Don’t sleep
on the whole baked fish of the day, which has become a showstopping favourite. ANN OSBORN
Pair it with a drink from the well-stocked bar (limoncello spritz, anyone?).
groundthevenue.com; tel: 063 296 2274
Vuur Goose
Island, Remhoogte,
Stellenbosch
After the success of VUUR restaurant, which
opened on Remhoogte estate in 2021, lovers
of fire-based cooking can now book a spot
at VUUR Goose Island under the helm of
head chef and braai connoisseur Shaun
Scrooby, pictured with Mandre Campher on
his right. As the name suggests, it’s located
on a small island (named after a flock of
resident Egyptian geese) in a dam. The
restaurant is reached via a bridge and seats
16 at a communal table, with two seats at
the chef’s counter. Expect a seven-course
menu that changes daily, with everything
cooked over the fire. “Our lunches are not
short,” warns Shaun with a laugh. “If you
leave at 4:30 pm, it’s early!” Considering you’ll
be plied with the likes of mosbolletjies with
plum-and-rooibos jam, and venison basted
with Shaun’s fat-enriching flambadou
technique, it sounds like no hardship at all.
vuurgooseisland.com; tel: 083 600 4050
Mertia,
Stellenbosch
Discerning diners should take note of this
brainchild of founders Marais Kirsten-Uys
(left) and chef Matt van den Berg (far left).
Says Matt, who cut his fine-dining teeth
NEW ENTRY
R72.99 for 4
Dale Gray
My Le Creuset signature round
casserole is a workhorse! It
makes cooking that much
more enjoyable and delivers
consistent results every time.
You could say that food writer Dale Gray, who
has 211 000 Instagram followers, is a real
“Southern” girl. Her cookbook, South of
Somewhere: Recipes and Stories from my Life in What would people
be surprised to find
South Africa, South Korea and the American South, in your fridge?
will have you poring over the vibrant dishes My bottom drawer is
from her nomadic experiences always stocked with a
cheese. Also: a big jar of
two-year-old preserved
watermelon rind that my
grandmother made. I keep
it in remembrance of her.
Your most
popular recipe?
Hard-to-find SA craving?
Thankfully most items can be found
these days if you’re willing to look
hard enough. I sometimes order a few
Woolworths pantry staples (hello,
tangy mayo!) from Canada. But most
of us, myself included, really wish we
could get our hands on a pepper
steak pie from Woolies.
I often tell people down when it’s served too cold. the colder side, tasting it, then pear flavours of a Viognier,
who say white wine This does depend on the letting it slowly warm up in the the rich butteriness of a
is too cold for autumn varietal, but lighter whites can glass as you sip – a great way to Chardonnay or the hint of oak
and winter that usually be poured at between experience the changes in its in a wood-matured Chenin.
they’ve probably 7 and 10°C, while more full- distinctive characteristics. These are six of my favourite
overchilled their wine. bodied or oaked wines will For cold-weather sipping, white wines and bubbles for
Serve it at the right temperature generally taste their best rather than salinity and sipping on crisp autumn days
and you’ll get maximum between 10 and 13°C. minerality, think about the and cooler nights. I hope you
enjoyment from the aromas I suggest experimenting by complexity and yeastiness enjoy them as much as I do –
and flavours, which will be shut pouring your chosen wine on of a Cap Classique, the ripe and slightly warmer than usual!
4
3
2
OF F T HE MEN U
6 Silverthorn
The Genie Rosé Brut
Made from 100% Shiraz grapes,
this bubbly has a tempting
salmon-pink colour with
aromas of cherries, strawberries
and Turkish delight. The
cherries follow through on the
palate and I really like the
fantastic mousse and fine
bubbles. It’s the perfect partner
for a snack of bruschetta
topped with prosciutto, ricotta
and rocket before everyone sits
down to the main course.
R299.99
Award-
winning
SASA-certified
sommelier
Joseph
Dhafana
is the
founder
of @mosiwineandspirits. He is
a wine judge and consultant
and also conducts wine tours.
HAPPY HOUR
Jam session
Looking to add a dollop of flavour (and colour) to your
sundowner? Jeanne Calitz suggests reaching for a jam jar
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG
water – this helps it to really merge with the
other ingredients. It also keeps things from
getting, shall we say, a little sticky. In any
case, we hope you’ll get properly stuck
on these jammy delights. W @jtcalitz
THE PLUM SOUR Shake over ice, strain and (don’t knock it till you’ve Triple Sec or
serve in a coupe or a short tried it!). Cointreau 1 T
Woolworths plum- glass filled with ice. Go all London dry gin 45 ml
and-strawberry jam out and rim the glass with THE BREAKFAST
2 t, loosened with water a lick of strawberry jam MARTINI Shake over ice, then strain
Scotch whisky 45 ml and dust with dehydrated orange marmalade into a martini glass. Garnish
fresh lemon juice 2 T strawberry powder or 1–2 t, loosened with water with lemon or orange peel,
simple syrup 1 T strawberry jelly powder fresh lemon juice 1 T or a slice of lemon.
ISLAND IN THE
CHEZ BILLY
FOR LUNCH AT A
FAMILYRUN CREOLE
RESTAURANT
A drive through the cirque
de Salazie brings you to
the picturesque mountain
village of Hell-bourg. It’s
home to traditional Creole
restaurant Chez Billy,
which is run by Billy Benoit,
his partner, Jessica, and
her sister, Melanie. The
chalkboard menu lists
traditional favourites
such as crunchy fritters
with chouchou filling and
chilli sauce for starters;
rougail saucisses (pork
sausage stew), or brinjal-
and-potato cari for mains,
and artisanal coconut
ice cream and ti’son
cornflour cake with
litchi jam for dessert.
10 Imp. des Aubépines, Salazie
CHEZ LOULOU
FOR CREOLE BAKES AND SNACKS
Chez Loulou is a Saint-Gilles institution
and if you visit near lunch or dinner
time, you’re likely to join a queue that
spills into the street. Do as the locals
PHOTOGRAPH (LEFT) IRT/MICHEL VESPASIEN
BAR DALONS
FOR CRAFT BEER WITH LOCAL FLAVOUR
In 2018, students Thibaut Colbachini, Joris Guedon
and Jonathan Hin Tung started making their own
beer in one of their parents’ garages. Today they
have a taproom in Sainte-Marie (where you’ll meet
brewmaster Achille Vermes and colleague Justine
Saint-Pierre) and two bars – one in Saint-Denis and
one in Saint-Gilles. Their artisanal beers are perfect thirst-quenchers
on balmy nights. You’ll also spot the colourful label incorporating
the historic Bel-Air Lighthouse in shops around the island.
8 Rue André Lardy, Sainte-Marie; bieredalons.com; @bar.dalons.stgilles;
5
@bar.dalons.stdenis
LA SAGA DU RHUM
FOR RUM FROM REUNION’S
OLDEST DISTILLERY
Discover the history, cultural significance
and craft behind Reunion’s famous spirit at
the island’s only rum museum in Saint-Pierre. La Saga
du Rhum is at the heart of the Isautier family distillery,
founded in 1845, and on your self-guided tour you’ll
discover the difference between rhum agricole (white
rum made using sugar cane juice) and traditional rum
(made using molasses). The tasting room offers the
chance to sip white and barrel-aged rums, cream liqueurs
and rhum “arrangés” – referring to the old practice of
sailors preserving fruit and spices in alcohol for long
journeys, which became a tradition on the island. Choose
your favourites – everything from coffee and vanilla to
litchi and granadilla – in the museum shop, where they
offer smaller bottles perfect for your luggage.
Chemin Frédeline, Saint-Pierre; sagadurhum.fr; lsautier.com
MAFATE CAFÉ
FOR A MODERN CREOLE BRUNCH
Named after one of Reunion’s three famous cirques, or
volcanic calderas, this award-winning coffee shop in the
capital, Saint-Denis, offers a contemporary interpretation
of Creole traditions using only products and ingredients
from the island. “Sweet and savoury are always combined
in a brunch,” says proprietor Jean-Charles Bertrand. “Here
we include rice with vegetables, topped with organic
farm eggs, as well as cod-and-sweet potato balls and
fried chicken.” Pair this with pancakes or a waffle made
with cassava flour and drizzled with dark salted caramel
sauce. There also sweet potato cakes filled with sweet-
tangy Plaine des Palmistes guava, platters of tropical fruit
and excellent coffee. Ask Jean-Charles to tell you about
Reunion’s rare Bourbon pointu coffee and pop into his
deli next door to buy a bag of the treasured beans.
Also stock up on home-made jams, preserves, fleur
de sel, vanilla, herbs and spices to take home.
3 Rue du Moulin à Vent, Saint-Denis; mafatecafe.com; @mafatecafe
LA SIRANDANE
FOR A
created by chefs Christian Virassamy- buffet of meat, seafood and vegetable
TRADITIONAL
Macé and Michelin-starred Nicolas Carro, stews and caris. Still have room for
COOKING CLASS
uses local ingredients in a combination dessert? Choose the chocolate tart
“Creole food is
of Creole and French dishes full of colour topped with crisp-fried curry leaf or
real fusion food
and flavour. Starters include fresh palm their salted caramel “Paris-Brest” with
– a blend of flavours from China,
heart salad and octopus tataki, while mains a peanut-butter biscuit and vanilla ice
Madagascar and India can be found
could be beef fillet with Bourbon pointu cream.
here,” says La Sirandane owner Daniel
coffee jus and puréed heirloom sweet 2 Route de Saint-Pierre, Saline-Les-Bains,
Francome. He remembers spending
potato. Or opt for the traditional Creole Saint-Paul; facebook.com/le.choka.bleu
hours in his grandmother’s kitchen
as a child and, although he worked
in the computer industry for years,
the desire to share his love of cooking
eventually won. He spends his days
running workshops in the traditional
outdoor kitchen at his home in Saint-
Benoît, where families, groups of
friends and tourists gather to prepare
breakfast and lunch in cast-iron pots
over a wood-burning fire. You’ll learn
recipes including rougail saucisses,
and cari options such as prawn and
goat served with rice and beans, as
well as snacks such as samoosas. And
do sample Daniel’s home-made rhum
arrangés. Infusing white rum with
herbs, spices and fruit (see La Saga
du Rhum on p 46) is a tradition on the
island. He has many heady versions
to sip while you eat. 39 A Chemin Vidot,
Saint-Benoît; lasirandane.com
LA VANILLERAIE
FOR ARTISANAL VANILLA PRODUCTS
You’ll find highly prized vanilla at this historic Saint-Suzanne estate.
La Vanilleraie has consistently been awarded medals at the Paris
Agricultural Show and, after a fascinating one-hour tour of the farm
and workshop (book online), you will understand why their vanilla
is in high demand in Parisian speciality shops and top restaurants.
Everything, from fertilising the flowers to harvesting the green pods
and measuring the dried pods, is done by hand. And the time- “You will understand
consuming process of preparing and maturing the vanilla to develop why their vanilla
its unique aromatic qualities is entrusted to an expert with 25 years is in high demand
of experience. The process from harvest to sale takes two years and in Parisian speciality
the pods are so precious that sales are limited to 20 g per family. Get shops and top
your quota at the estate shop, along with products including vanilla
extract, syrup, sugar, salt, oil and caramel cream. 2 ter Domaine du Grand
restaurants”
Hazier, All. Chassagne, Sainte-Suzanne; lavanilleraie.com; @lavanilleraie
STAY
REUNION NEED-TO-KNOW Saint-Paul on the west
coast is a great place to
base yourself. Hotel Le Saint
Alexis (hotelsaintalexis.
VISA WHEN TO GO GETTING THERE GETTING AROUND com) offers direct access to
Reunion is a The warm, humid season Air Austral offers flights The roads are excellent and Boucan Canot beach, where
department of France runs from November to from Johannesburg to self-drive is easy (if you’re you could while away many
but South African April, with tropical cyclones Saint-Denis twice a week accustomed to driving hours under the coconut
passport-holders don’t possible in January and in the warm season and on the right). But if you palms. That’s if you’re not
need a visa to visit for February. The cooler dry four times a week in the want a professional driver- enjoying the view from one
stays of up to 90 days. season runs from May cool season. guide with excellent local of the restaurant’s six cosy
to October. knowledge, contact Gregory balconies, or cooling down
Gutstein via geotravelers.re. in the impressive pool.
Mini fish
cakes
Tuna
pâté
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL
Tuna crostini
TAST ES TH AT BIND
Soup power
The clever addition of an unexpected ingredient gives Sam Woulidge a pot of protein-
rich tomato soup that she can finally obsess over for the first time in her life
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG
both the packet of tomato soup and my creaminess and, yes, protein. The internet chopped
husband, I left the kitchen. is full of people adding cottage cheese smooth plain low-fat
The next day the soup was gone. to everything. A month ago I would cottage cheese 1 x 250 g tub
Jacques had eaten it, happily, of course. have been horrified; now it appeals to
And I had calmed down by then and eaten me. It feels virtuous. I presented the soup 1 Soften the onions in the
my soup of choice. But I felt guilty about proudly. It was incredible. It had Caprese olive oil over a medium heat
my tantrum. Of course I eat tomato soup if I flavours from the basil, notes of rich for about 10 minutes. 2 Add
absolutely have to. As in, if I’ve been invited caramelised onion, and an intense tomato the garlic and simmer for a
to a dinner party and don’t want to appear base with enough pepper to give it a slight further 5 minutes. You may
rude. But I have never willingly bought it, bite. I was obsessed. wish to add another small
or heaven forbid, made it. But things can Seb initially regarded it with suspicion, drizzle of olive oil if necessary.
change. Often things must change. having grown up with me expressing my 3 Add the tomato paste,
For example, post-surgery I now own dislike. So I made him a cheese toastie tomatoes, stock, oregano, salt,
have something called protein goals. to go with it. He told me it was delicious pepper and basil and simmer
(Everybody, I subsequently learnt, is also and asked for a second bowl. Jacques was for 45 minutes. Allow to cool.
trying desperately to “hit” their protein surprised by my change of heart but ate it 4 Once cooled, blend until
goals.) I re-examine the contents of Seb’s enthusiastically. They told me they loved smooth using a hand-held
lunchboxes, adding chicken and more my soup, and finished the pot. “You have blender, then add the cottage
cheese. I interfere with Jacques’ morning hit your protein goals, boys,” I said. But they cheese and blend again.
smoothie ritual, insisting that he adds cared nothing about that. They only cared CARB-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT-
protein powder. I have, apparently, become that I had bothered to cook again, that AND GLUTEN-FREE
incredibly annoying. And all the while, the tomato soup was back on the menu, WINE: Warwick Cape Lady
memory of my tomato soup homecoming and I’d said that I was sorry. W Cabernet Sauvignon
fills me with guilt. @samwoulidge, confessionsofahungrywoman.com
OX TRIPE
Remove from
the packaging
and place in a
saucepan or
microwaveable
dish. Heat for 30
minutes. Serve
with Woolworths’
creamy spinach,
amadombolo, mild
chakalaka and
sliced green
chillies.
LEG OF LAMB Preheat the oven to 180°C. Remove the lamb from the packaging and place in a roasting pan
(set aside the sachet of sauce). Roast for 20 minutes. Pour off the pan juices and reserve for the gravy. Increase
the oven’s temperature to 220°C and return the lamb to the oven. Roast for a further 20–25 minutes, or until the
potatoes are soft and golden. Combine the pan juices with the sauce from the sachet and heat over a low heat.
Serve with Woolworths’ pumpkin fritters and steamed Tenderstem broccoli.
PHOTOGRAPH MYBURGH DU PLESSIS PRODUCTION HANNAH
LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIREELLEN VAN ROOYEN
FOOD I N N OVATOR
FLORAL-LAMINATED
PASTA AND ROASTED
HERBY TOMATOES
WITH CONFETTI BUSH
RICOTTA
R35 PER SERVING
The cool Cape workshops, where she merges food and conversation that takes place in the kitchen
ecology as a powerful tool for learning. when the food’s being cooked, the
Peninsula air, fragrant It all started 14 years ago when she connection and the conversation that
with the aroma of wet packed up her life in Muizenberg and happens around the table.”
made the move to Cape Point, where she This is also an important part of her
earth and fynbos, had the opportunity to slow down and hosted experiences at Veld and Sea, based at
invites us to inhale become curious about her surroundings. Good Hope Gardens Nursery, which she
“Love drew me here. I fell in love with my officially launched full-time in 2016. “It’s
deeply as we admire husband and then I fell in love with the really a hobby that spiralled out of control,”
the jigsaw-style glass land. Tom has lived here all his life and my she laughs. “The more I learned about the
mother-in-law, Gael, is an amazing fynbos edible landscape, the more I wanted to
house nearby. horticulturist, so she’s been my plant share my knowledge and make people
mentor. I’ve learned a lot from her.” understand how special it was to be able to
It is made entirely out of windows, some Most of Roushanna’s ecological relate to the source of their food. When we
found and others gifted by friends. Inside, education has been by osmosis, an adopt a multisensory, immersive learning
chandeliers of dried indigenous flowers and insatiable curiosity and extensive reading, experience, we are more likely to retain
mollusc shells sway gently from the ceiling enquiring, smelling, tasting. “When I was new information, more likely to ask
and a disco ball spins slowly over a large starting out, there wasn’t a course you questions, and we begin to see how many
table laden with fresh flowers, jewel-toned could take, so there was a lot of self-study, underutilised and overlooked sources of
glassware and thick ribbons of kelp. especially about seaweeds – there wasn’t as food and medicine there are in South
We haven’t been here for long, yet much information about them back then. Africa,” she says of her motivation behind
already we feel immersed in the softness, “I have always been a huge bookworm. hosting these experiences.
the slowness, of this place. Growing up, I spent hours in the library, “As a foodie, and someone who is
“My husband, Tom, built the glass I read everything. Food was also a big part food-curious, my big question was always
house; he built that table, he built the of my childhood. Both my grandmothers what is Cape Town’s food? It’s impossible
kitchen cabinets. He’s a landscaper but were caterers and we celebrated almost to answer. I was born and raised in Cape
his passion is carpentry. The glass house all the major religious holidays – Pesach, Town, I am multicultural and have a mixed
is a love project of ours,” says Roushanna Rosh Hashanah, Eid, Christmas. I still ancestry, so another question I like to ask
Gray of the space where she hosts her love the communal gathering, the myself is who am I in this place?”
When those questions intersected for an event but we aren’t open every day, hundreds of metres of irrigation pipes and
Roushanna, she set out to discover the taste which is important to know before you fittings, water tanks, and their succulent
of the landscape. “The land that Veld and drive all the way here! Laura Kropman, greenhouse. But they survived the inferno
Sea is on holds a diverse and fragmented who was our head chef last year, is now thanks to a firebreak, a necessary system in
history. The first inhabitants were Cape our events co-ordinator. Rochelle, who is fire-prone areas. They have also protected
Point Khoi. It was colonised by Simon van another brilliant mind, has taken her place their perimeters by planting fire-wise
der Stel in the 1600s and later populated by in the kitchen. Hazel works in the scullery plants, mainly succulents.
settlers, farmers, sailors, and the displaced but has shown a lot of interest in food, Out of the fire arose the opportunity for
who worked for and were enslaved by them. so she’s moved up to kitchen assistant. fellowship and rebirth. Shared heartbreak
Evidence suggests seasonal herdsmen lived I love any opportunity for growth and and hope brought the surrounding
here. During the Boer War, a nearby area am currently doing a trade exchange community together in a binding effort to
served as a meeting point for the Cape with Brett Nussey from Stir Crazy help raise funds for those affected by the
Point Highlanders. In the early 1900s, Cooking School. In return for taking his fire. This support took the form of an event
Cape Point became a protected nature students out foraging, my kitchen team at Veld and Sea, which included a day filled
reserve and during World War II, the is going to do some of his courses.” with live performances, food, books and
Klaasjagersberg area became a military Summer experiences run from plants, and an outpouring of donations.
training camp. Post-war, the land was November through to March on specified Ecologically, the land began to
zoned into rural agricultural plots. dates to work in tandem with the moon’s regenerate and new life began to emerge.
Fynbos seeds floated through the wind,
landing on the burnt ground to await
“It’s so important for my kids to know where the perfect conditions for germination.
their food comes from. It’s an act of resistance Roushanna discovered the edible bulbs of
the watsonia flower, a bright orange bloom
to raise strong, informed children” that began to populate cracks of the charred
landscape. These mild, nutty bulbs are
rendered edible after fire and protrude
“I hope to honour the ancient history of phases and the tides, allowing for from the ground, almost as if to offer
this space by teaching foraging, and sharing maximum access to the inter-tidal rock themselves up for the eating. “The Khoi
indigenous plant and coastal knowledge. pools. In winter, Veld and Sea offers who inhabited this area ate these regularly,
By understanding indigenous wisdom and a five-hour land forage, educating visitors back in a time where there were no
aligning with the flavour seasons and cycles about edible weeds, mushrooms, wild fruit recorded recipes or handbooks, but they
of nature, we show respect for our human and flowers. At the end of each workshop, held sacred knowledge about edible
kin, promote sustainability, and strengthen guests sit down to a meal combining their indigenous plants.”
our bond with the environment.” foraged finds and produce picked from Food, flavour and medicine are all
What features on Roushanna’s plates is the garden. To accompany the meal, they around us, and Roushanna has made it her
largely informed by what the land provides. are invited to create their own botanical life’s assignment to educate all who care
Right now, num-num bushes burst with concoctions from an assortment of herbal to learn. “Another passion project we’re
ripe red berries that will be baked into tinctures, cordials, infused gins, bushels working on is trying to get this programme
a cake. Seaweed milk buns are delicately of impepho, confetti bush and floral into school curriculums. It’s in the pipeline
embossed with preserved dried pansies, ice cubes. and it’s something that a colleague and
and chimichurri is blended with freshly Inhabiting natural spaces can be as I would like to implement soon, because
harvested blanched sea lettuce. Marine confrontational as it is enchanting. that’s really where it needs to start, with the
plants are a recurring theme on the menu In December 2023, wildfires ravaged next generation. It’s meant everything to be
and Roushanna praises them not only for Simon’s Town, causing thousands able to raise my kids here. It’s so important
their intensely oceanic umami flavour, of hectares of devastation. for them to know where their food comes
but also for their vitamins, minerals and “Living here is very elemental and we from, to have a strong connection with the
micro-nutrients. experience floods and fires often enough. land. It’s an act of resistance to raise strong,
In the kitchen, the team is preparing It’s the beauty of living so close to nature. informed children.”
lunch. Hazel Mawire rolls out sheets But this fire was different, it came in hard She believes that the more we understand
of floral pasta, Callie Janson prepares mussels and fast, approaching us in the evening about the environment, the better inclined
to smoke over the fire and Rochelle Coetzee when the helicopters were no longer we are to protect it, and the more adaptable
passes around samples of ice cream made flying, so help was not immediately we become as we use our learnings to
using milk provided by the goats that are available. When you see the flames, there’s handle situations we face in our daily lives.
reared on the farm, which is also home to so much to consider: which way the wind “Whether we’re deepening our relationship
chickens that supply eggs and pigs that is blowing, what do you save when your with the ocean or discovering edible plant
supply meat. life is about to burn?” life on land, when we exist with nature as
“We’re a team of 14 and we work like The flames licked the periphery of Veld our classroom, anything is possible.” W
freelancers; everyone comes in when there’s and Sea’s structures, burning through veldandsea.com; goodhopegardensnursery.co.za
WILD SAGE-AND-
MUSHROOM
ARANCINI WITH WILD
GARLIC AÏOLI
R30 PER SERVING
egg yolks. Add the almond flour, baking sugar using an electric mixer until stiff GREAT VALUE
powder, salt and tapioca starch, then mix peaks form. Place the strained amasi into Preparation: 30 minutes,
well. 2 In a separate bowl, beat the egg a bowl and gently fold in the whipped plus chilling time
whites until soft peaks form. Gradually cream, until just mixed. 5 Serve the cake Cooking: 30 minutes
add the remaining sugar, incorporating with the peaches and amasi cream.
it slowly until the egg whites are stiff. WHEAT-AND GLUTEN-FREE local olive oil 2 T
Gently fold the egg whites and num-num WINE: Weltevrede Strawberry Rosé onion 1, chopped
berries into the cake mixture. Bake for garlic 1 clove, crushed and chopped
approximately 40 minutes, or until WILD SAGE-AND- wild sage (Salvia chamelaeagnea)
a skewer inserted comes out clean. MUSHROOM ARANCINI 8 leaves, finely chopped (or use
3 To make the peaches, bring the sugar WITH WILD GARLIC AÏOLI ordinary sage)
and water to a boil in a saucepan. Add “When incorporating wild sage into food, risotto rice 195 g
the rose pelargonium leaves and infuse exercise caution as its flavour can be potent. home-made vegetable stock 3 cups
until the syrup cools. Add the peaches or Opt for finely chopped leaves in small brown mushrooms 500 g, finely chopped
nectarines and cook in the syrup for about quantities to subtly enhance the dish. sea salt and freshly ground black
10 minutes. 4 To make the amasi cream, Alternatively, use a sprig to infuse the fynbos pepper, to taste
place the amasi in a piece of cheesecloth aromatics into soups and stews. Remove it mozzarella 1 cup grated
or clean tea towel, and hang over a bowl from the pot after 8 minutes.” flour 120 g
to strain the whey from the solids. Ideally free-range eggs 4, lightly beaten
hang overnight in the fridge for the best Serves 12 panko breadcrumbs 500 g
consistency. Whip the cream and icing EASY vegetable oil, for frying
WINNER DINNER
If you haven’t had chicken this week are you even alive? This midweek supper staple is
unmatched because of its ease, versatility and value. Woolworths’ new harissa chicken
casserole needs a spot on your winter supper rotation. Free-range chicken drumsticks are
cooked in a spicy harissa sauce, ready for you to add the finishing touches when you get
home. Chicken really does make a winning dinner! woolworths.co.za
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL
edible flowers, for serving golden brown. Serve with the aïoli, For the chimichurri, blend:
lemon wedges, for serving edible flowers and lemon wedges. parsley 20 g
5 To make the aïoli, place the eggs, lemon coriander 20 g
For the wild garlic aïoli: juice, mustard and wild garlic into a food origanum 20 g
free-range eggs 2 processor and blend until combined. chilli 1
lemon juice 1 T With the motor running, slowly pour in spring onions 3
Dijon mustard 1 t the oil and process until thick. local olive oil ½ cup
wild garlic (Tulbaghia violacea) MEAT-FREE garlic 3 cloves
1 piece including the bulb, chopped WINE: Colmant Brut Reserve fresh sea lettuce (Ulva ridgida)
vegetable oil 1½ cups Cap Classique a handful (or use baby spinach)
lemon 1, juiced
1 Sauté the onion and garlic in the olive FYNBOS-SMOKED sea salt and freshly ground black
oil until soft and translucent. Add the wild MUSSELS WITH SEA pepper, to taste
sage and mushrooms, and fry until the LETTUCE CHIMICHURRI
mushrooms are cooked. Remove from “Originating from a camping trip up the 1 Prepare hot coals and spread the
the pan. 2 Stir in the rice, while adding a West Coast, this recipe has become a dried fynbos in a large cast-iron skillet
third of the stock. Simmer over a low to cherished classic in the Veld and Sea kitchen. or paella pan with a lid that fits snugly.
medium heat, stirring frequently. Once The smokiness of dried fynbos herbs Arrange the mussels on top. Position the
the liquid is absorbed, repeat the process imparts a distinct South African flavour to skillet over the hot coals and add a few
until all the stock has been used and the mussels.” glowing coals between the mussels to
the rice is cooked and creamy. Season initiate the smoking process. Cover with
to taste. Before the risotto cools, add the Serves 4 the lid and smoke for about 10 minutes,
mozzarella and stir until fully melted. EASY or until all the mussels have opened.
Allow the mixture to cool for a few hours GREAT VALUE 2 Serve the mussels with the chimichurri
or overnight in the fridge. 3 Shape the Preparation: 30 minutes as a dip or coat the mussels in it as they
cooled rice mixture into bite-sized balls. Cooking: 10 minutes come off the fire. Serve with ciabatta, or
Coat each ball with flour, then dip into the add to a paella.
egg, and finally roll in the panko crumbs. dried edible fynbos 200 g FAT-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE
4 Deep-fry the arancini in the oil until fresh mussels 30, cleaned WINE: Graham Beck Brut Cap Classique
SIMPLE PLEASURES
Created around the year
1 000 by Benedictine
monks in Italy’s Po Valley,
Grana Padano is a hard,
granular cheese matured
for up to 25 months. It can
withstand the elements
without deteriorating and
so, too, can its recipe,
which hasn’t changed
over the centuries. Every
wheel of Grana Padano
is examined and graded
by Consorzio Grana
Padano technicians
before receiving the
signature firebrand that
confirms it as authentic
Grana Padano PDO
(Protected Designation
of Origin). It’s one of
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT LEILAANN MOKOTEDI
SERVING SUGGESTION
Arrange a few shavings of Grana Padano on a slice of your favourite toasted
bread and drizzle with olive oil to let the mild, nutty flavour of the cheese shine.
B I STR O FOOD
POMMES ALIGOT
R57 PER SERVING
D U OUR
You may not be headed to Paris for the Olympics, but turn your next dinner
party (or family meal) into a French trip with Abigail Donnelly’s bistro classics
– from rillettes and roast chicken to boeuf bourguignon with a cheese mash
to rival Joël Robuchon’s. Bon voyage!
PHOTOGRAPHS MYBURGH DU PLESSIS
RECIPES AND PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY
FOOD ASSISTANT CHERI KUSTNER
PORK RILLETTES WITH For the chicken liver pâté: the other side. Remove from the pan.
CANDIED PRUNES AND butter 4 T 4 Add the thyme, shallot and garlic and
CHICKEN LIVER PÂTÉ free-range chicken livers 250 g cook for 2 minutes until golden brown.
“This can be served as a snack but I’ve also thyme 4 sprigs Add the livers, spices and sherry. Cook
been known to eat rillettes as a meal – shallot 1, chopped for 5 minutes, then add the cream. Cool.
spread thickly on slices of sourdough garlic 3 cloves, chopped Blend until smooth, place in a bowl
with a smear of mustard.” freshly grated nutmeg a pinch and chill for 2 hours. Serve with the
ground mace a pinch sourdough, oranges and prunes.
Serves 6 sherry ¼ cup WINE: Neil Ellis Groenekloof Syrah
EASY cream ½ cup
GREAT VALUE salt, to taste COVER RECIPE
Preparation: 40 minutes, plus 4 hours’ POMMES ALIGOT
chilling time sourdough, for serving “Grated mozzarella and Gruyère take
Cooking: 3 hours oranges, for serving creamy mashed potatoes to a new level
of deliciousness – a perfect side for the
For the rillettes: 1 To make the rillettes, place the pork and boeuf bourguignon on page 77.”
pork belly 600 g spices in a large saucepan and cover with
pork shoulder 600 g water. Cover and simmer for 2 hours, or Serves 6
cinnamon sticks 2 until the meat falls apart. Drain and cool, EASY
star anise 2 then shred the meat. Place in a dish, press GREAT VALUE
freshly ground nutmeg 1 t down so the meat is packed tightly and Preparation: 20 minutes
Woolworths duck fat 1 cup spoon over the duck fat. Chill for 4 hours. Cooking: 25 minutes
gherkins, for serving 2 To make the candied prunes, place all
the ingredients in a pan and simmer for Woolworths Everyday potatoes
For the candied prunes: 15 minutes, or until the prunes are soft. 4, peeled and diced
fresh prunes or small plums 12 3 To make the chicken liver pâté, melt the garlic 2 cloves
vino cotto ½ cup butter in a pan until foaming, then add butter 6 T
verjuice 1 cup the livers. Cook on one side until golden cream 1 cup
brown, about 3 minutes, then cook on mozzarella 340 g, grated
BOEUF
BOURGUIGNON
R73 PER SERVING
POTAGE LA MER
WITH SMOKY ROAST
PEPPER AÏOLI
CANDIED
PRUNES
Gruyère 340 g, grated Cover tightly with foil and roast for POTAGE LA MER
salt 1 t 2 hours, or until the meat is tender. WITH SMOKY ROAST
black pepper, to taste Season and serve with creamy mash. PEPPER AÏOLI
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE “This seafood stew is a great treat for a
1 Place the potatoes in a saucepan of cold WINE: Thunderchild Red Blend special occasion. To make it more budget-
water, bring them to a boil and cook until friendly, you could use only the mussels and
soft. Drain and pass through a potato ricer. COVER RECIPE serve with baguette to mop up the juices.”
2 Place all the ingredients into a large ROAST CHICKEN WITH
saucepan and cook over a low heat until all CAPER PASTE AND Serves 6
the cheeses have melted and a creamy mash PALOISE SAUCE EASY
is formed. Season with salt and black pepper. “I love serving paloise sauce with roast Preparation: 20 minutes
Serve piping hot. chicken – it’s similar to bearnaise, but with Cooking: 25 minutes
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE mint instead of tarragon. If you’d rather cook
WINE: Springfield Albariño a whole bird, go ahead – the caper paste butter 3 T
works just as well under the skin.” shallots 2, finely diced
BOEUF BOURGUIGNON celery 1 stick, finely diced
“This is my adaptation inspired by the movie Serves 4 garlic 3 cloves, smashed
Julie & Julia, which showed how blogger EASY tomatoes 2, finely diced
Julie Powell spent hours perfecting Julia Child’s GREAT VALUE saffron 1 t
recipe. Rather than red wine, I chose a dry rosé Preparation: 20 minutes fish stock 3 cups
to make the stew lighter. It’s delicious with the Cooking: 30 minutes white wine 1 cup
pommes aligot above.” prawns 12, cleaned and peeled
capers 4 T, drained crayfish tails 3, halved
Serves 6 lemon 1, zested clams 300 g
EASY garlic 2 cloves mussels 500 g
GREAT VALUE butter 3 T calamari tubes 12
Preparation: 25 minutes Italian parsley 3 T salt 1 t
Cooking: 3½ hours salt ½ t
free-range skin-on chicken breasts 4 For the roast red pepper aïoli:
bone-in beef cubes 1 kg free-range egg yolks 2, at room
flour 140 g For the paloise sauce: temperature
beef marrow bones 6 shallots 3, finely diced garlic 2 cloves, crushed
beef stock 4 cups butter 2 T sunflower oil 1½ cups
butter 4 t white wine vinegar 2 T lemon juice 3 T
olive oil 4 T free-range egg yolks 2 Woolworths Lazy Kettle hickory
baby onions or shallots 12 lemon juice 1 T liquid smoke 2 t
carrots 4, peeled and halved salt, to taste Woolworths roasted red peppers
garlic 12 cloves butter 200 g, melted 100 g, puréed
bay leaves 6 mint 15 leaves, finely sliced salt ½ t
thyme 6 sprigs
rosé wine 1 cup 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Using a mortar 1 Heat the butter in a large pan. Add
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, and pestle, pound together the capers, the shallots and celery and cook over
to taste lemon zest, garlic, butter, parsley and salt. a low heat until soft. Add the garlic and
mashed potatoes or aligot, for serving 2 Stuff the herby butter under the chicken tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, stirring
skin and season the skin with salt. Roast for occasionally. 2 Add the saffron, stock,
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Toss the beef in 20 minutes, or until cooked through. 3 To wine, prawns and crayfish. Cover and
the flour and set aside. 2 Place the marrow make the sauce, gently fry the shallots in simmer for 5 minutes. Add the clams,
bones and stock into a deep baking dish. the butter until translucent. Add the vinegar mussels and calamari. Cover and simmer
Cover tightly with foil and roast for 1 hour. and cook until reduced. Set aside. Place the for 5 minutes, then season. Serve with
3 Melt the butter and oil in a large ovenproof egg yolks, lemon juice and salt in a bowl. dollops of aïoli. 3 To make the aïoli,
pan and brown the meat in batches. Remove Slowly pour in the butter while whisking place the egg yolks in a large bowl.
from the pan, then add the onions and until the sauce thickens and coats the back Add the garlic and pour in the oil in a
carrots and cook until golden brown. Add of a spoon. Mix in the cooked shallots and steady stream from a height, whisking
the garlic and herbs and cook for 1 minute. mint. Serve immediately over the chicken. continually until thick. Add the lemon
4 Add the meat, cooked marrow bones, stock CARB-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND juice and liquid smoke. Stir in the red
and wine. Reduce the oven’s temperature GLUTEN-FREE pepper purée and season with salt.
to 160°C. Make sure the meat is submerged WINE: Iona Ten Barrel Pinot Noir WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
– you might need to add some more stock. WINE: Paul Cluver Riesling
“This sabayon CANARD AU VIN PIE caramelise until golden brown. Sear on
“This duck pie is inspired by a classic coq au the other side and set aside. 2 Fry the
is the perfect vin. You could leave off the pastry and eat the
filling as a casserole with creamed potatoes.”
pork in the same pan until caramelised,
then set aside. 3 Fry the onion, garlic and
accompaniment for herbs in the butter until soft. Deglaze the
Serves 4 pan with the white wine and reduce to a
the chocolate tart, EASY syrupy consistency. 4 Return the duck legs
GREAT VALUE and pork to the pan and add the stock
but it also works Preparation: 30 minutes and carrots. Cover and simmer for 1 hour.
Cooking: 1 hour 30 minutes Preheat the oven to 200°C. 5 Place the
well with a dollop pastry on top of the pan, brush with the
of crème fraîche Woolworths free-range duck legs 4
Kassler pork chops 3, diced into
egg and bake for 20 minutes, or until the
pastry is puffed up and golden.
and the poached 1 cm cubes
butter 2 T
WINE: Jordan Cobbler’s Hill
BLANC CANVAS
Who says you can’t
drink white wine in
winter? Paired with the
right meal, Cape Point
Vineyards’ Sauvignon
Blanc will strike the right
notes all year round.
This fruit-forward,
straw-coloured wine
with aromas of ripe
nectarine, granadilla,
gooseberries and fig
also contains hints of oak
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIREELLEN VAN ROOYEN
SERVING
SUGGESTION
Prepare
Woolworths’ frozen
vegetable pot
stickers according
to package
instructions. Serve
with Woolworths’
Asian-style salad
dressing for a quick
and delicious
dipping sauce.
B I STR O FOOD
DUCK DIVE
Between busy schedules and loadshedding, making hearty winter meals can seem
impossible. Enter Woolworths’ Easy Meals! Developed with busy home cooks in mind,
they let you enjoy your favourite meals without the fuss. Why not add new duck curry to
your cart? Partially deboned whole free-range duck is cooked in a rich, fragrant curry until
tender. With the hard work done, all you have to do is follow the package instructions and
serve with fluffy rice, toasted flatbreads and a spicy sambal. woolworths.co.za
SERVING
SUGGESTION
Prepare
Woolworths
duck curry
according to
package
instructions. Toast
2 naan and serve
with 100 g
roasted baby
brinjals and a
side of 1/2 diced
cucumber, 1/2
diced red onion
and 1 diced
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL
Dark
arts.
How do you like your coffee? If you‘re Herman Lensing it might be
in a boozy dessert, an old-school cake or as a deeply flavoured syrup
to pour over a panna cotta with the perfect wobble
COFFEE FLAN CAKE free-range eggs 2 the cake tin. 2 To make the flan, beat all the
“This is an ode to the days when my father canola oil ½ cup ingredients together in a bowl until well
and I would drink coffee with condensed milk milk 200 ml incorporated. Strain the mixture through
around a campfire, dreaming of magical hot water 1 cup a sieve, then carefully pour over the cake
things to come. This cake, too, is magical: batter. Bake for 25–30 minutes or until
two different mixtures go into the tin and For the flan: a skewer comes out clean. 3 Allow to cool,
somehow swap places. Pure alchemy!” condensed milk 1 x 385 g can then chill for 20 minutes. Turn out onto
evaporated milk 1 x 380 g can a serving plate.
Serves 6 to 8 free-range eggs 4 WINE: Meerlust Rubicon
EASY cream cheese ½ cup
GREAT VALUE Woolworths Italian instant coffee 3 T COFFEE CAKE
Preparation: 20 minutes, plus “This is a classic flop-proof hot-milk sponge
20 minutes’ chilling time 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Spray a cake my mother use to bake when we were
Baking: 30 minutes 20 cm bundt cake tin with non-stick children. Give it a modern nostalgic feel with
cooking spray. Prepare the cake according butter icing piped creatively into frills and falls
Woolworths Easy to Bake chocolate to package directions using the eggs, oil, – there’s plenty of inspiration online.”
cake mix 1 x 650 g box milk and hot water. Spoon the batter into
Serves 6 to 8
A LITTLE EFFORT
GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 2 hours, plus 1 hour’s
“I love the power chilling time
coffee has to Baking: 30 minutes
COFFEE ZABAGLIONE
“Smooth, light and deliciously boozy,
this dessert is a true Italian classic.
I enjoy serving it with a biscotti or two.”
Serves 4
EASY
GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 10 minutes,
plus cooling time
Cooking: 5 minutes
COFFEE
ZABAGLIONE
R15 PER SERVING
Serves 6 to 8
A LITTLE EFFORT
GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 30 minutes, plus
cooling time
Cooking: 30 minutes
A LITTLE EFFORT
CREME BRÛLEÉ GREAT VALUE
DOUGHNUTS Preparation: 30 minutes, plus 1 hour
R13 PER SERVING 20 minutes’ proving time
Cooking: 20 minutes
S A U C E
C O D E
STONE FRUIT
KETCHUP
PHOTOGRAPHS
TOBY MURPHY
RECIPES AND
PRODUCTION
KHANYA MZONGWANA
FOOD ASSISTANT
UNATHI TAFFA
PINEAPPLE RIND
HOT SAUCE
RIPE BANANA
PEEL CHUTNEY
BURNT CORN
EMULSION
pineapples 3, peeled
water 3 cups
brown sugar 2 T
bird’s-eye chillies 200 g
garlic 4 cloves
medium onion 1, roughly chopped
large tomatoes 3, peeled and roughly
chopped
Spanish smoked paprika 1 t
sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste
canola oil 4 T
SERVING
SUGGESTION
Arrange bacon on
a tray and bake
in the oven until
cooked to your
liking. Drain on
kitchen paper.
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIREELLEN VAN ROOYEN
Serve sandwiched
in toasted sesame
buns with
Woolworths’
Peppadew relish
and crispy fried
eggs with a
sprinkle of crispy
bacon bits. Or
make a delicious
BLT salad with
sliced cherry
tomatoes and
baby spinach,
rocket and
watercress salad,
crisp back bacon
rashers and
Woolworths’ fresh
basil pesto mayo
dressing.
AFRICA IS
the fin a l f r o n t i e r o f
FOOD
UK-based caterer and entrepreneur Maria Bradford is on a mission
to bring people together with the flavours and ingredients of her
homeland, Sierra Leone. Try these traditional Afro-fusion and street-food
recipes from her beautiful book, Sweet Salone
PHOTOGRAPHS DAVE BROWN AND YUKI SUGIURA TEXT AND RECIPES MARIA BRADFORD
“
time-consuming to prepare and cook. simple. We’re here to bring a whole new
Freetown has a unique history and world of flavours to your door, through
fascinating story when it comes to either traditional Sierra Leonean or
international trade. The fusion of culinary Afro-fusion dishes. We draw upon our
techniques and recipes has been in colourful Sierra Leonean culture to bring
existence since the dawn of global people closer together through food,
travel. Initially, there was migration offering an authentic experience.
within Africa between different tribes, I decided to write the book because
then Muslim traders brought Islam, it’s important for me, for Shwen Shwen,
then Europeans and Lebanese arrived and, I hope, for Sierra Leone. This story
and returnees from London and needs to be told.
the Caribbean, each bringing new I founded Shwen Shwen with a strong
experiences to this melting pot. sense of purpose, and that was to put our
My name is Mariama. I was named after “Africa is the final frontier of food, and
my grandmother, but for as long as I can whether we are using utensils or eating
remember everyone has called me Maria.
I speak three languages – Krio, Mende
with our hands, our dishes can be prepared
and English – and I live in Kent with and consumed in a fine-dining environment”
my family. I have many fond childhood
memories of growing up in Freetown, Early world travellers exchanged Sierra Leonean produce, cuisine and
the capital of Sierra Leone, all of which and combined food knowledge, unique culture on the map. I wanted to
have influenced my recipes. and inevitably recipes and our food show that Sierra Leonean cuisine can
I started my food business in 2017, options have become more complex be fine dining. Ultimately, I wanted to
creating delicious African food for dinner and interesting, taking influence from connect people through food; to amplify
parties, weddings and corporate events. contrasting climates, ingredients and elevate our culture where possible.
Back then, it was called Maria Bradford and cooking methods. I wanted to prove that creative
Kitchen, but my fellow Sierra Leoneans My own migration story from West pursuits can be worthwhile – by creating
would describe my dishes as ‘fancy’. They Africa to England includes experience in a platform on which others can build.
would say in Krio, ‘Dis na Shwen Shwen’, Italian kitchens and a culinary school that I started Shwen Shwen as a way to
which, in English, is an exclamation along taught French classics. Settling in Kent, play my part, using the skills that I have.
the lines of, ‘This is fancy food!’ the Garden of England, has afforded me I am hoping to stimulate a collective
So, I decided to rename it. [Sh•wen access to many fine ingredients, so this pride that we can all share and own.
Sh•wen] Adjective, derived from the Krio Afro-fusion story continues. In my book, If Shwen Shwen can inspire other Sierra
word for ‘fancy’. I set out some of my own Afro-fusion Leoneans, other Africans, other creatives,
I am really proud that Shwen Shwen is recipes, which I hope will prove that other women to start something, build
at the forefront of Sierra Leonean-inspired diversity can inspire creativity and make something, follow their dreams, then it
fine-dining experiences. Africa is the final for a rich tapestry. will have served its purpose.
frontier of food, and whether we are using While I was writing Sweet Salone, I hope Shwen Shwen can encourage
utensils or eating with our hands, our I travelled with photographer Dave others to become action-takers and
dishes can be prepared and consumed Brown to Sierra Leone for the location impact-makers while pursuing their
in a fine-dining environment. Dining photography, which was a load of fun. own dreams.”
etiquette in Africa’s Atlantic Coast Returning to my great grandmother’s shwenshwen.com; @shwenshwenbymaria
CURED AND BLOW- dish. Sprinkle over the curing mixture to free-range chicken thighs 10–12
TORCHED MACKEREL cover evenly and leave to cure for about 12
WITH HIBISCUS-AND- minutes. (Note: The mackerel can be cured 1 To make the pepe marinade, place all
GINGER SAUCE for up to 1 hour if you prefer a more “cured” the ingredients in the bowl of a food
“Mackerel is a rich fish and the tartness taste and texture.) 5 Rinse the mackerel processor and blend until smooth and
of the hibiscus cuts straight through, under cold water to remove the curing well combined. 2 Transfer to a saucepan
complementing the smoky, oily flesh mixture. Pat dry with kitchen paper and, and cook over a medium heat for 10–15
beautifully. Soak the hibiscus for the sauce using a kitchen blowtorch, scorch the skin minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent
the day before you plan to eat this dish.” on both sides until charred and the fish is sticking, until the marinade has reduced
cooked through, 2–3 minutes in total. Hold and thickened. Taste and adjust the
Serves 4 the blowtorch a few inches from the fish seasoning if necessary. Allow to cool.
EASY and gently move around, not scorching any 3 Place the chicken in a large glass or
GREAT VALUE one bit for too long. Alternatively, heat the ceramic bowl, pour over half the marinade
Preparation: 25 minutes, plus overnight grill to high and grill for 3–4 minutes (be (you can freeze the rest or keep it for up to
soaking time careful not to burn them). Serve the fillets 1 week covered in the fridge) and massage
Cooking: 1 hour with the warm hibiscus-and-ginger sauce, it well into the chicken. Cover and set aside
garnished with dill. to marinate in the fridge for 2–3 hours or
For the hibiscus-and-ginger sauce: FAT-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT-AND overnight. 4 Preheat the oven to 200°C.
dried hibiscus flowers 30 g GLUTEN-FREE Arrange the chicken pieces in a single layer
water 2¾ cups WINE: Villiera Carte Blanche White Blend in a baking dish. Roast for 35–40 minutes,
sugar 2½ T (or to taste) basting occasionally, until cooked through
fresh ginger 1–2 t grated (or to taste) PEPE CHICKEN (they are ready when the juices run clear
butter 2 t “African culture encompasses a love of when pierced in the thickest part of the
celebrations that combine food, fashion, thigh with a skewer).
For the cured mackerel: music and dance, and in my view, no party Cook’s note: In the warmer months, the
mackerel 4 fillets, pin bones removed is complete without pepe chicken. Street thighs can be cooked on the barbeque.
(ask your fish supplier to do this for you) vendors in Freetown grill this over hot Baste them regularly and turn frequently
fine sea salt 100 g charcoal throughout the night and it is until they are cooked through, as above.
caster sugar 100 g perfect pre- or post-club with chilli sauce.” DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
fennel seeds 1 T, toasted and ground WINE: Spier Chardonnay
in a pestle and mortar or spice grinder Serves 6 to 8
coriander seeds 1 T, toasted and ground EASY KANKANKAN
in a pestle and mortar or spice grinder GREAT VALUE CAULIFLOWER FRITTERS
West African pepper blend 1 T Preparation: 20 minutes, plus WITH YOGHURT-AND-
(see p 111) 2–3 hours’ marinating time MAYO SAUCE
fresh dill sprigs, for serving Cooking: 1 hour “Cauliflower fritters pair perfectly with
a cool dollop of yoghurt-and-mayo sauce
1 To make the hibiscus-and-ginger sauce, For the pepe marinade: as a starter.”
place the hibiscus flowers in a small pan, large onions 2 (about 450 g)
pour over the water and leave overnight to garlic 5 cloves (20 g) Serves 6 to 8
rehydrate. The next day, bring the soaked fresh ginger 25 g EASY
hibiscus flowers to a boil, reduce the heat lemon juice 2 T GREAT VALUE
and simmer for 40 minutes. 2 Transfer to curry powder 1 T Preparation: 15 minutes
a food processor or blender, blend until West African pepper blend 1 t (see p 111) Cooking: 20 minutes
smooth, then pass through a fine sieve into lemongrass 2 stalks
a clean pan. Add the sugar and cook over sweet paprika 1 t For the cauliflower fritters:
a high heat until the sauce has reduced ground coriander 1 t medium cauliflower 2 heads,
to a syrupy consistency, 10–15 minutes. salt 2 t (or to taste) cut into bite-sized florets
3 Add the ginger until you can really taste unsalted peanut butter 200 g sunflower oil, for deep-frying
it coming through, then beat in the butter, (use one without palm oil) chickpea flour 260 g
which should melt in the residual heat of tomato purée 30 g Kankankan spice mix 3 T (see p 111)
the sauce. Taste and add more sugar if you tomato 1, chopped (130 g) baking powder 1 t
think it needs it; the sauce should have a stock cube 1 (use one without MSG) soda water 1½ cups
sharpness to it as a foil to the richness of dissolved in 1¼ cups plus 1 T hot water,
the mackerel. Set aside and keep warm. or chicken, beef, fish or vegetable stock For the yoghurt-and-mayo sauce:
4 To make the cured mackerel, mix the Scotch Bonnet chillies 2–3, seeds left good-quality mayonnaise 5 T
salt, sugar and spices. Lay the mackerel in (or to taste) plain Greek yoghurt 5 T
fillets flat in the base of a glass or ceramic Kankankan spice mix 5 t (see p 111)
sea salt and freshly ground black 6-bone racks of lamb 3, French-trimmed butter 150 g, plus extra for greasing
pepper, to taste (ask your butcher to do this for you) caster sugar 150 g
sea salt and freshly ground black free-range eggs 3
1 Place the cauliflower florets in a heatproof pepper, to taste flour 50 g
bowl and pour over boiling water to cover. self-raising flour 150 g
Allow to stand for 10 minutes then drain, For the heritage tomato salad: full-cream milk 1–2 T
pat dry and set aside. 2 Meanwhile, make white wine vinegar 1 T orange 1, zested
the yoghurt-and-mayo sauce. Place the olive oil 3 T natural orange flavouring 1 t
mayonnaise, yoghurt and Kankankan spice caster sugar ½ t
mix in a bowl. Mix thoroughly, taste and shallots 2, chopped as finely as possible 1 Make sure all the ingredients are at room
season. 3 Heat the oil in a wok or a large, tarragon 1–2 sprigs, leaves finely chopped temperature. Generously butter an 18 cm
deep, heavy-based pan no more than ripe heritage tomatoes 500 g, as many cake tin. Preheat the oven to 180°C. 2 Using
half full. While the oil is heating, whisk the colours, shapes and flavours as you can an electric hand-mixer, cream the butter
chickpea flour, Kankankan spice mix and get your hands on and sugar together in a large mixing bowl
baking powder in a bowl. Whisk in the sea salt and freshly ground black until pale, light and fluffy (10–15 minutes).
soda water a little at a time to form a batter pepper, to taste Don't rush this step; the more thoroughly
with the consistency of pancake batter the butter and sugar are combined, the
(you may not need to use it all). Add the 1 To make the Kankankan crust, mix the lighter the cake will be. Add the eggs,
cauliflower and coat in the batter. 4 To test butter, Kankankan spice mix, breadcrumbs one at a time, beating the mixture well
whether the oil is hot enough, drop some and herbs in a bowl. 2 Season the lamb between each addition. Add 1 T flour with
of the batter into the hot oil. It should sizzle with the salt. Press a thin layer of the crust the last egg to prevent curdling. 3 Sift both
and turn brown in 20 seconds. 5 Working mixture over the rounded side of the lamb flours into the bowl and gently fold in,
in batches, fry the fritters in the hot oil racks and place them in a shallow roasting adding just enough milk to form a mixture
for 8–10 minutes until golden brown and pan. Chill for 30 minutes to firm up the that drops slowly from a spoon when the
cooked through. Remove using a slotted crust. 3 Preheat the oven to 220°C. Roast spoon is held away from the bowl. Fold in
spoon, drain on a baking sheet lined with the lamb for 20–25 minutes, then remove the orange zest and flavouring. 4 Pour the
kitchen paper and keep warm. Serve with and allow to rest for about 10 minutes. batter into the prepared tin and bake for
the yoghurt-and-mayo sauce. 4 Meanwhile, make the tomato salad. 30–40 minutes or until golden-brown on
MEAT-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE Whisk together the vinegar, olive oil, sugar top and a skewer inserted into the centre
WINE: Woolworths Light Chenin Blanc and salt and pepper to taste. Add the comes out clean. Turn out onto a cooling
shallots and tarragon and mix well. Slice the rack and allow to cool. Slice and enjoy.
RACK OF LAMB WITH tomatoes and arrange in a single layer on WINE: Saronsberg White Blend
KANKANKAN CRUST a large platter, mixing different colours and
AND HERITAGE sizes. Check the seasoning of the dressing.
TOMATO SALAD 5 To serve, slice the lamb into individual ribs
“Food is deeply rooted in memory, and and arrange on 6 plates. Pour the dressing
certain foods have the ability to transport us over the tomatoes, making sure they are
back to the past and to special places. This well coated, and serve.
dish is inspired by a place in Freetown where HEALTH-CONSCIOUS
meat vendors come out at night on the Old WINE: Woolworths West Coast Organic
Railway Line, just behind the Youyi Building Cabernet Sauvignon
(Lodge). Cooking and eating it takes me
straight back there.” SIERRA LEONEAN-STYLE
RICH CAKE
Serves 6 “I have fond memories of the process involved
EASY in making this cake. We would butter the
GREAT VALUE inside of empty powdered milk tins and use
Preparation: 20 minutes, plus them as baking tins. The cake was then BUY A COPY
30 minutes’ chilling time baked outside in the open on an improvised Sweet Salone: Recipes from the
Cooking: 25 minutes oven on an open fire, using a large pot with Heart of Sierra Leone (Hardie
a lid, placed on top of three stones. We Grant) by Maria Bradford is
For the Kankankan crust: absolutely nailed it. Salone girls rule!” available at good bookstores
unsalted butter 150 g, softened and online for R705. Follow
Kankankan spice mix 6 T (see p 111) Serves 6 to 8 @shwenshwenbymaria on
fresh breadcrumbs 10 T EASY Instagram and find out more
finely chopped fresh mixed herbs, such GREAT VALUE about her catering business and
as parsley, chives and thyme a handful Preparation: 30 minutes award-winning pantry products
salt 1 t Baking: 40 minutes at shwenshwen.com.
CHOP.
SIMMER.
SAVOUR.
CREAMY CHIPOTLE-
AND-SWEET POTATO
SOUP WITH POLENTA
CAKE AND CRISPY
CHORIZO
R62 PER SERVING
FIRE-ROASTED
TOMATO-AND-CHICKEN
SOUP WITH BABY
MARROW FRIES
R45 PER SERVING
LAMB KNUCKLE-AND-
POTATO IRISH
STEW-STYLE SOUP
R47 PER SERVING
FIRE-ROASTED TOMATO-
AND-CHICKEN SOUP WITH
BABY MARROW FRIES
“This soup makes its own stock while the chicken
roasts with the herbs, onions and water. To make
a version of chicken noodle soup, you could add
cooked risotto.”
SAMBAR-STYLE
INDIAN FISH BROTH Serves 4
WITH YOGHURT- EASY
BAKED BRINJAL GREAT VALUE
R47 PER SERVING Preparation: 15 minutes
Cooking: 1 hour
VEGETABLE-AND-
MUSHROOM
WONTON SOUP
“Readymade prawn potstickers from your
freezer make this quick, flavourful noodle
soup even more substantial.”
Serves 4
EASY
Preparation: 12 minutes
Cooking: 10 minutes
Serves 4
EASY
GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 15 minutes
Cooking: 25 minutes
a refugee camp (no joke), before being Next to join the team was Princess,
deported to South Africa with a five-year who used to work as a domestic worker
Australian travel ban in his passport. for Jared’s mom. Jared trained her too
“A week later,” Jared says with an and soon “we were like this little
unabashed grin, “I was on a plane headed dysfunctional family in the kitchen,
for the Gili Islands in Indonesia.” After banging out high-end French-style
that came Malaysia, then Singapore – pastries in their hundreds”.
where he was blown away by the level of
cuisine at the Michelin-starred restaurants Today, La Tarte produces up to 900
– and Hong Kong, where he acquired individual desserts every week – for
a French girlfriend. The couple travelled markets, hotels, coffee shops and private
to Europe where Jared encountered French orders. This might not sound like
cuisine and pâtisserie. It was while in a lot until you realise the level of skill
France that it dawned on him: “This is involved, the quality of the ingredients
what I love. This is what I want to do.” that go into Jared’s creations, and until
But the time wasn‘t quite right. Next you actually see these desserts and marvel
“
came a two-year stay in Phuket, running at their sheer beauty and perfection.
a concierge service renting villas to Imagine the delight that is “Le Petit
tourists, and finally, when Covid-19 struck Feist” (named after Jared’s late dog, and
in 2020, Jared started inching his way back one of his signature inventions): a round
almond sponge filled with a whipped
vanilla ganache, topped with a jewel-like
were like this little layer of raspberry fruit puck and finished
with nappage neutre (or mirror glaze)
dysfunctional family in the kitchen, to give it that final gloss. The artistry
banging out high-end French-style is astonishing.
Jared might not be classically trained,
pastries in their hundreds” but his standards are extraordinarily high,
and both his technical knowledge and
to South Africa. It took a while but he total precision are remarkable.
finally landed in Jozi, where he joined the “We don’t cut corners,” he says plainly.
team at Sotto Sopra restaurant. “I was “We use only the best ingredients and
brought on board to rework the menu, to we don’t skimp on them because it makes
help revitalise the space, and it was going a world of difference. Everything is made
well – but I was in the pastry section every from scratch – the fruit purées, the
day. I kept it to myself, but I was always confitures, the pralines. I could go on
thinking and dreaming about pâtisserie.” and on about the different kinds of pectin
When a planned big project with his we use to set the purées and would
then business partner fell through, Jared happily talk your ears off about the
was finally able to give his full attention thermo-reversible varieties I use.”
to his dream. “I started to dig deep and it Clearly, this is a man obsessed
was all there, this arsenal of ideas I’d (in a good way) – a man who lives,
collected over 18 years of travel – the breathes and dreams pastry.
recipes, the flavour profiles, the memories. What’s next for La Tarte? Jared is
“And the idea for La Tarte was born, looking for a suitable retail space to
one Wednesday night. Three weeks later open a pâtisserie in either Cape Town
I‘d rented a kitchen in Sandton and hired or Johannesburg. He has a sophisticated,
one staff member, someone who’d worked stylish space in mind, where customers
with me at Sotto and who I trained to start can enjoy his perfect creations, baked
working in pastry.” treats and breads, and, of course, an
They started baking for the city’s excellent cup of coffee or tea.
markets. “I would get up at 3 am to bake “I’ve always known that I would one
150 pastry shells to get us through the day do my own thing, open my own
weekend. I hired another staff member and place,” smiles Jared. “I just got a bit
we started to produce more for another sidetracked along the way.”
market. Soon, people started talking; Now, he’s totally invested in La Tarte’s
the coffee shops and hotels began asking: next phase and, quite frankly, so are we.
how do we get hold of your products?” @latarte_patisserie
QUICK-FIRE:
THE DESSERT EDITION
Cream or créme fraîche?
Always cream – for the
higher fat content.
Malva pudding or Peppermint Crisp
tart? Neither! Give me a milk
tart done right, old-school,
with a blistered top.
How about chocolate cake – flourless
or classic sponge? Flourless. I want
to taste the chocolate, not air.
Fancy-ish French desserts: crème
brûlée or crêpes Suzette?
It’s crème brûlée for me.
Vanilla or brandy custard?
Classic vanilla all the way.
Macaron or éclair? Don’t get
me started, always choux,
always the éclair. Top: Choux à la
framboise.
Best-ever coffee-flavoured dessert?
Opera cake (almond sponge Middle: Tarte aux
cake soaked in coffee syrup, fraises: Choux pastry,
layered with ganache and vanilla sponge, confit
French coffee buttercream, strawberry, fresh
covered in a chocolate glaze). strawberries, vanilla
whipped ganache.
The ice-cream flavour that should be Bottom: Le Petit Feist.
banned? Bubblegum! Cast it out
all the way to the Bermuda
Triangle.
The only dessert cocktail worth
PÂTISSERIE GLOSSARY
consuming? A spiced chai
old-fashioned. Crème diplomate
Pastry cream combined with whipped cream
The dessert that takes you back
with added gelatine for stability.
to your childhood? Bread-and-
butter pudding. Crème légère
A combination of classic pastry cream
and whipped cream.
Crème mousseline
A fluffy, silky buttercream made of pastry
cream and whipped butter.
Crème pâtissière
Pastry cream – a rich vanilla cream,
thickened with flour or cornflour,
and used as a filling for pastries.
Pailleté feuilletine
“Leaf-like flakes” – a super-thin crêpe
crumbled into flakes.
Pâte à choux
Choux pastry – a rich, light pastry used for
the likes of profiteroles and éclairs.
Pâte sablée
A rich shortcrust pastry.
Pâte sucrée
Sweet pastry dough, enriched
with egg, butter, vanilla and sugar.
Tourbillon
The technique of piping a spiral shape
onto a surface.
Vanilla pecan:
Crunchy feuilletine
pecan base, pure vanilla
white chocolate mousse,
pecan praline insert,
vanilla-and-white
chocolate mirror glaze
topped with roasted
pecans.
WHAT
FINE-DINING
DID
And that is Santiago’s origin story. He started getting DMs from restaurants After cooking in 27 different countries,
His restaurant, KOL, which is at and chefs via Instagram. “I would get he chose London for its open-mindedness,
number 23 on the World’s 50 Best list, invitations to Hong Kong and Taiwan and critically, because the ingredients
serves a modern Mexican tasting menu and Paris and Turkey. I was going to all would be radically different. “I wanted to
in a quiet street in Marylebone. these countries, just by people contacting showcase something special, something
His food is the work of someone with me on Instagram. Sometimes I’d wait that would make sense here, but that you
an extraordinary brain, but to describe weeks. I’d have no money and I’d be also couldn’t get in Mexico. So I needed
it as Mexican re-interpreted with British staying in a hostel, eating rice, until a place where the weather is very different
ingredients is an over-simplification. Yes, someone sent me a message. and also where I could find investment
he deliberately replaces non-indigenous, “I was just ‘the guy who was doing because I didn’t just want to open a
out-of-season produce with ingredients pop-ups, who is Mexican,’ ” he says, neighbourhood restaurant, I wanted
that mimic the flavours, but it’s also more wryly. “Sometimes I was doing five events to make an impact.”
conceptual than that and more complex. in five different countries in one week.
So Cornish crab has fermented It was crazy. I almost had a heart attack ANOTHER CHEF
gooseberries standing in for limes, once. But I met so many people.” M A K I N G A N I M PAC T
sandwiched between light pink corn And then, aged 26, while doing a stint at the top end of the London restaurant
wafers; the signature langoustine taco in a restaurant in St Petersburg, he got scene and with a similar ethos, academic
with smoked chilli features foraged sea a call. It was René Redzepi. pedigree and Michelin-studded work
buckthorn; pistachio purée might replace The legendary Noma chef needed experience (he also worked at Mugaritz),
avocado, and a pinched tortilla filled with a project manager for his planned Noma is Chetan Sharma of BiBi in Mayfair. It’s
peas is covered with a layer of Wagyu Mexico pop-up. “I think he must have the home of the Bentley set, Savile Row
glazed with a reduction of bone marrow, thought, ‘This guy was recommended and the very Instagrammable food court
lardo and rose. It is joyful food. by so many people from so many different Mercato Mayfair, which is housed in
A dish I will never tire of describing countries, he must be good.’ So I quit a deconsecrated church.
is the mole coloradito, traditionally made and the next day I took a flight to Like Santi, Sharma is the quintessential
in Oaxaca with mashed plantains, but at Copenhagen to meet them.” food “nerd” – he has a physics doctorate
KOL the sauce is made with dried carrot The whole experience, first working at from Oxford, worked at the serially
chips – “They taste like plantains!” says Noma itself and then travelling through name-dropped The Ledbury (among
Santi – and fermented blackcurrant. It is Mexico with Redzepi, leading research others), before being backed to open
served with a single purple carrot, cut trips, creating supply chains, sourcing BiBi – named for his grandmothers and
their influence on his food (see origin
story, paragraph one).
“I saw this place we’d built in the jungle, The menu is modern Indian, but relies
heavily on seasonal British ingredients –
where we were representing Mexico, so a spicy Scottish beef “fry” is served raw
and it changed my plan” and uses fermented Tellicherry pepper;
– Santiago Lastro, KOL Swaledale lamb barra kebab (a signature
dish) is made with mutton chops from
Yorkshire; and scallops from Devon –
down the centre, effectively butterflied, suppliers and preparing for the seven-week hand-dived and transported in a boat
and “massaged to break down the fibres”. pop-up in the Yucatan, changed Santi’s named “Bagheera” – are served on the
The result could be a perfect piece of entire career trajectory, leading directly shell with puffed quinoa in a puddle of
steak set in a pool of the deep purple to this quiet street in Marylebone. cloudy lemon juice with green chilli and
sauce – instead it is a soft, sweetly “It was a big job. I lost 10 kg. And basil seeds. This is nimbu pani, a drink
roasted carrot. my girlfriend. But it was a life-changing ubiquitous in India, a kind of street-style
Santi’s cooking is also the result of years experience. This opportunity made me lemonade. It is an ingenious pairing of the
spent travelling, but also studying and, learn more about Mexico in one year old with the new.
critically, thinking. He won a scholarship than in my entire life. And it gave me this One of my favourite dishes was minced
to do his master’s at the Basque Culinary crazy idea to open this place. I thought goat, ludicrously tender, served with rotis,
Center where he also worked at the I was going to go back to Mexico, but red onion and coriander to be hand-rolled
famous Mugaritz before moving to this changed my plan. I saw this place that and, if I’d had the chance, stowed away
Copenhagen and studying at the we’d built in the jungle, where we were for later as this is not a tasting menu that
Nordic Food Lab. giving recognition and value to things could be described as diminutive. More
The plan was to travel and return to that had never had that before in the accurately, it’s called the Chef ’s Selection
Mexico to open a research centre. But world, and we were representing Mexico Menu, as Sharma was recently quoted
then he did “the Swedish pop-up”. and everyone loved it. I thought: I need in the Observer Food Monthly as saying
“This was before pop-ups were really to open a restaurant somewhere where “there’s some bad branding around
a thing,” he says. And he was noticed. I can keep doing this.” the phrase ‘tasting menu’ ”.
ON THE
OTHER SIDE
OF OXFORD
S T R E E T,
in Fitzrovia, celebrated
chef Nuno Mendes has
re-emerged (don’t call
it a comeback) with a
restaurant that does not,
in fact, offer a tasting menu.
Unlike previous projects, the Michelin-touted
Viajante and celebrity favourite The Chiltern Firehouse,
Lisboeta is more low-key to mimic the pace of his
hometown and (yes!) with at least one dish inspired by
his grandmother. Interviewed for The Standard, Mendes
said: “We have these prawn rissois, as a snack. They’re
just … her, you know? I was making them and I was
following her footsteps. It was so emotional. That was
my biggest influence, that cooking based purely on love.
It marked me, it formed me. And when I tasted them,
there was that feeling – these are part of my culture.”
TWO MONTHS
AFTER MY TRIP
to London, I went to
a conference in Istanbul
and heard Santi Lastro
speaking on a panel with
three veteran UK chefs.
He was the most articulate
and charismatic – but I am
probably biased. I have
eaten his langoustine tacos.
The subject was what
high-end London Clockwise from left: Osip chef-
restaurants need to do to patron Merlin Labron-Johnson;
survive in competitive and the interior at Osip in Bruton,
Somerset; vegetable amuse-
difficult times: “Trends
bouches at Osip.
come and go,” Santi said,
“We want to be seen as an
institution, as though we
have always been there.”
That’s when I realised
I hadn’t found any new
trends in London, but I’d
found a different kind of
inspiration. These chefs all
had similar philosophies –
a shared pursuit of excellence, the same respect for
ethical sourcing, exceptional produce and a deep desire
to do justice to their respective countries, each with their
own particular origin story and path to success.
But, more importantly, in every case their very
specific passions were so infectious, their stories so
evocative, that I could taste them in their food. And that
ability – to translate your own, very personal inspiration
into something that can be shared with others is not
a trend – that is a gift. W
WHERE TO STAY
INHABIT QUEENS GARDENS
PHOTOGRAPHS REBECCA DICKINSON AND CHARLIE MCKAY KOL LOTUS INTERNATIONAL TURNIPS; CRAB COMMUNICATIONS BIBI; EIGHTYFOUR LISBOETA; M PEACH AND CO OSIP; SCOUT PR INHABIT QUEENS GARDENS
A body-mind reset when you need it, is just
a stone’s throw from Paddington and everywhere
you want to eat in London
Travel isn’t glamorous, and anyone who says
it is has never flown economy class. And
they have definitely never had their British
Airways Airbus delayed for hours on the
runway at OR Tambo before hearing: “One
of the crew has been taken ill”. The crew
member was the captain and the flight
was cancelled, which meant getting 450
passengers off the plane and shuttled to
various accommodations in the middle
of the night. To say it was one of the
worst travel experiences of my life is an
understatement. When we eventually did
depart, I’d missed my interview with iconic
chef Ruth Rogers CBE and my first night
at Inhabit Queens Gardens in Bayswater.
Fortunately, after 45 unpleasant hours of
travelling, Inhabit Queens Gardens is exactly
where you want to end up. Billed as a
“restorative, environmentally and socially
conscious place to stay”, walking into this
oasis of Scandi-design calm felt less like
arriving at a typical London hotel and more
like a private residence. I honestly felt like
I was home. Or, at least, the home I feel
I deserve.
From the serenity of my room, I was within
walking distance of Paddington Station
and within easy access of all the restaurants
I planned to visit – in Mayfair, Fitzrovia and
Marylebone. It is, quite simply, the perfect
London address, without the prohibitive
price tag (rooms start at £170 a night).
But wait, there’s more. “Inhale at Inhabit”,
their wellness centre, offers a treatment suite,
fitness centre and yoga studio, for starters,
and their on-site restaurant is a collaboration
with the award-wining Devon health
retreat, Yeotown. The restaurant serves a
Californian-inspired, meat-free menu, which
naturally means the ultimate avocado-smash
toast with poached eggs (my recovery
choice after eating airport food for two
days), plus feel-good dishes including
blue spirulina pancakes and the signature
“Bounce back” burger. The dinner menu
does include fish and, if all of this wasn’t
enough of a recommendation, the
sommelier is a vocal fan of South African
wines. British Airways owes me at least
a week’s stay. I feel it’s only fair.
1–2 Queens Gardens, queensgardens.inhabithotels.
com, @inhabit_hotels
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS RECIPE SAADIYAH HENDRICKS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG
chocolate-chip
cookies for
Mother’s Day.
Jam-packed with
white choc chips,
shards of dark
chocolate and
a joy-inducing
quantity of
sprinkles, they also
boast the very
best of textures –
crunchy on the
outside, soft
and fudgy in the
middle. Bake them
at your peril!
Catch
this video
on TASTE’s
social channels
in May.
Are You
a Student?
Gautrain is offering students a 25% discount on
Gautrain trips between any two stations of their
choice. Register on myGautrain.co.za and
follow the steps bellow.
STEP
02
STEP
STEP Student Verification 03
01 via varsityvibe
As part of the registration process,
student verification is done through
Varsity Vibe.
Should you run into any For Gautrain queries: For Varsity Vibe queries:
challenges during your [email protected] or [email protected] or
registration process, 0800-GAUTRAIN (Toll-Free) 081-696-1623
please contact us
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