Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 148

EASY CHOC TART + BEEF BOURGUIGNON OUR ULTIMATE

LEMON SABAYON + CHEESY MASH COFFEE CAKE

May/June 2024 R95 incl. VAT


taste.co.za @WWTaste
FOOD
FRONTIERS
REUNION
ISLAND,
LONDON
& SIERRA
WIN!
A NEW WEBER
LEONE
SMART GRILL
WORTH
R43 999

& MORE…
RS
PE
CA

8
H
IT

24189
W

HOT EN
K
SAUCES! HI
C
9 771728 878004

SPICY, SWEET, SOUR BE C


EF T
REN AS
DA N G C U R R Y, R O
Roast chicken
with caper paste,
Paloise sauce and
pommes aligot

t
(cheesy mash)
(p 77)

53 N E W- S E A SO N SO U P S , E A SY D I N N E R S & CO M FO R T C L A S S I C S
E AT I N AT
STEYN CITY
Whether you’re in the mood for a casual meal
or a more sophisticated dining experience,
Steyn City offers a diverse array of dining options.
From a coffee shop and pizzeria, to both casual
and sophisticated restaurants, there’s something
to suit various tastes and preferences. Beyond its
culinary offerings, Steyn City stands out as a unique
residential development with expansive 2000 acres
of parkland and a selection of world class leisure
facilities. From golf, cycling and horse-riding to
padel, tennis, and beach volleyball, as well as a
300m lagoon and water activities, this residential
lifestyle estate, ranked among the world’s best,
is unparalleled in its offerings.
Steyn City - come home to extraordinary.

Visit www.steyncity.co.za to make a booking

C I T Y C E N T R E A PA R T M E N T S F R O M 2 .7 M
S TA N D S | H O M E S
Nothing beats the rich

of Parmigiano Reggiano,
the only authentic
Parmesan.
Masterfully made in Italy with the same passion, expertise and
dedication as in the 12th century, Parmigiano Reggiano remains
true to its heritage and taste.
Artisan cheese makers use traditional methods of
production distinctive to the area of origin, to create the
only authentic Parmesan cheese.

SIGNATIO
DE
N
OTECTED

OF
ORIGI
PR

• •

www.parmigianoreggiano.com
MAY/JUNE 2024

EASY EATS AFRICA IS THE JARED DREAMS


Turn autumn’s bounty FINAL FRONTIER OF PASTRY
into easy dinners with OF FOOD Meet Jared Melamed,
Hannah Lewry’s recipes, Get a taste of Sierra Leone the creator of the most
from creamy spinach and with these recipes from sought-after French-style
chicken, to batch-cooked Sweet Salone, the new pastries and desserts in
beef rendang. 18 book by Maria Bradford. Joburg. 122
102
WILD AT HEART WHAT FINE-DINING
Book a workshop with CHOP. SIMMER. DID NEXT
Veld and Sea’s Roushanna SAVOUR Flying to London? Read
Gray to explore the When it’s chilly out there, Kate Wilson’s report on
ingredients and flavours warm up with Abigail the chefs changing
of land and ocean. 56 Donnelly’s comforting fine-dining in the
soups and sides. 112 British capital. 130
PLAT DU JOUR
Take a trip to Paris at
your own table with
Abigail Donnelly’s bistro
classics, including boeuf
bourguignon and the
cheesiest mash. 70
DARK ARTS
COVER PHOTOGRAPH MYBURGH DU PLESSIS PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY FOOD ASSISTANT CHERI KUSTNER

Doughnuts with coffee


filling are just one of the
ways in which Herman
Lensing enjoys his
favourite brew. 82
SAUCE CODE
Take your inspo from
Khanya Mzongwana’s
recipes for home-made
condiments such as burnt
corn emulsion (for salads!)
and egusi seed butter (for
spreading on bagels!). 92

TASTEMAY/JUNE 2024 5
OFF THE MENU REGULARS COLUMN

 All tied up Edible ribbons 8 Editor’s letter 52 TASTES THAT BIND


32 New restaurants From Stellies 12 Sign up to TASTE’s newsletter Discover the ingredient that turns
to Muldersdrift, here’s where you and you could win a R1 000 Sam Woulidge’s tomato soup into
should be dining now Woolworths gift card. a meat-free meal that’ll help you
reach your protein goals.
37 New entry Treat mom and dad 14 One TASTE reader will win
to Woolies’ new individual tea cakes Weber’s new Genesis Smart
38 Food nerd to follow Grill with Weber Connect smart
South African expat, Dale Gray technology worth R43 999
40 The Taste case Joseph Dhafana 144 Follow us on Instagram,
makes a case for drinking white YouTube and TikTok, or like TASTE
wine when the mercury drops on Facebook, to watch Saadiyah
Hendricks make choc-chip cookies
42 Happy hour Jammy cocktails
for Mother’s Day
44 Scene Stealer Escape the cold
with a visa-free holiday to Reunion

page page
44, 130, 14
102

page
92

6 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


Now available at Woolworths.
vilafonte.com
E D I TOR'S LETTER

It takes a kitchen to raise a cook


“FOOD WAS hour zipping feral children into an
A BIG PART OF inflatable plastic wind tent called the
MY CHILDHOOD.” “money grabber”. Seemed apt.
This sentiment, expressed by forager- Everything changes. It’s part of life
cook Roushanna Gray in “Wild at and I’m working on how to accept it
Heart” (p 56), or a variation of it, with more serenity. Last year, I went
appears in at least six different places in to Istanbul to attend Gastromasa –
this issue. Sierra Leone-born author and a food expo and conference with a line-
cook Mariama “Maria” Bradford refers up of some of the biggest names in
to it repeatedly in her inspirational fine-dining from around the world.
cookbook Sweet Salone (p 102). At a press dinner at Gallada, Michelin-
And at least four out of five of starred Turkish chef Fatih Tutak’s
the chefs whose restaurants I was new restaurant in the Peninsula Hotel,
lucky enough to experience on my I realised I was probably the oldest
gastromanic reunion tour of London, media person at the table. It was a
can recall specific childhood food strange feeling, but I also realised how
memories that inspired and then fortunate I have been, as my career
shaped their careers. across magazines has allowed me to
And it seems apt, in May and June, experience so many different lives.
as we celebrate our parents on Mother’s Of the five chefs in my story “What
and Father’s Day, both in person and fine-dining did next” (p 130), three
in spirit, that this issue should pay were in their early 30s and one, Merlin
tribute to the role they played in our Like Herman Lensing’s mother, in Labron-Johnson of Osip, was the
relationship with and love of food. his debut story for TASTE, “Dark Arts” youngest UK chef to receive a Michelin
Food wasn’t a big part of my (p 82), mine also had a foolproof recipe star, aged 24. This is not unusual in an
childhood, ironically, though my for a hot-milk sponge (but hers was industry in which having a “calling”
mother was a wonderful cook, and still chocolate). It never actually made it to at a young age is almost a prerequisite
is. She will obsess over a dish she plans the cake stand at the school fête as one for success. You have to put in the years.
to make for weeks before she has to of the teachers who “knew” always I have an enormous amount of respect
make it. Jollof rice took up a large nabbed it before it left the classroom. for those who choose to cook for a
part of early 2022. And of course She is very proud of that. I am very living. Aside from the hardship of the
I appreciate her efforts now, but as
a child I was not interested in food.
This is often the case with children, “I have an enormous amount of respect for
especially those of working moms, those who choose to cook for a living –
I have discovered, as the Cherub grows it is an immense act of service”
up surviving largely on ham sandwiches
and crisps, despite my vain attempts to proud of that. Trying to live up to her kitchen and the hours, being able to
encourage her palate. Because I agree legacy (i.e. compete), I baked two cakes put your heart and soul onto the plate
with Roushanna Gray that children for the Cherub’s first proper school – for someone else’s pleasure entirely –
need to know where their food comes carnival last year – Nigel Slater’s is an immense act of service. Almost like
from. That “it’s an act of resistance incredible chocolate-studded banana raising a child. This issue is dedicated
to raise strong, informed children”. loaf and Abigail’s perfect Victoria to all the mothers and fathers and chefs
So, I will keep trying. sponge (find the recipe at taste.co.za). of the world – thank you for the
And I do remember my mother When I went to the stand to see sacrifices you make. We owe you.
making her own seed loaves and muesli whether they’d been sold, I found them
(it was the 80s, it’s what mothers did), buried at the back under a load of cake
and I did love her “fruity squares” – boxes filled with Woolworths baked
essentially fruit cake mix held together goods. Things have changed. Needless
with vast quantities of butter, sugar and to say, I didn’t bake anything this
crushed Tennis biscuits. They were one year. I signed up to work on one of the Follow me on Instagram
of the first things I learned to make. games stands, which meant spending an @KateWilsonZA

8 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


EDITORINCHIEF
Kate Wilson

EDITORIAL CONTENT & ART FOOD TEAM OPERATIONS


DEPUTY EDITOR Michelle Coburn FOOD DIRECTOR Abigail Donnelly GROUP OPERATIONS MANAGER Liesl Nicholson
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Katherine Botes DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR Khanya Mzongwana PRODUCTION MANAGER
GROUP ART DIRECTOR Jess Bailey SENIOR CONTENT CREATOR Clem Pedro Blossom Ngesi
SENIOR MULTIMEDIA DESIGNER Rugshaana Abrahams CONTRIBUTING FOOD EDITOR Hannah Lewry
CHIEF COPY EDITOR Lynda Ingham-Brown CONSULTING DIETICIAN Mariza van Zyl PUBLISHING TEAM
PHOTOGRAPHERS Jan Ras, Shavan Rahim GROUP ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Kelly Cloete
CONTRIBUTORS PRODUCTION MANAGER Shirley Quinlan
DIGITAL & COMMERCIAL CONTENT Andrea van der Spuy, Bianca Strydom, Brita du Plessis,
HEAD OF DIGITAL CONTENT Katharine Pope Cheri Kustner, Claire-Ellen van Rooyen, Dave Brown, ADVERTISING & MARKETING
COMMERCIAL CONTENT EDITOR Fatima Saib Elsa Young, Herman Lensing, Jacqueline Burgess, BUSINESS MANAGER Yvette Samaai
ONLINE EDITOR Annzra Naidoo Jeanne Calitz, Joseph Dhafana, Josh van Zyl, Maria +27 21 417 1156 [email protected]
CONTENT PRODUCER Lesego Madisa Bradford, Myburgh du Plessis, Raymand Buitendag, KEY ACCOUNT MANAGER Tharien Nel
Roushanna Gray, Sadiqah Assur-Ismail, Sam Woulidge, +27 21 417 5168 [email protected]
VIDEO CONTRIBUTORS Toby Murphy, Unathi Taffa, Vikayla Govender,
GUEST HOST Mogau Seshoene, Saadiyah Hendricks Yuki Sugiura WOOLWORTHS EDITORIAL BOARD
VIDEOGRAPHY Reddish Blue HEAD OF BRAND COMMUNICATIONS Elizka Ferreira
EDITORIAL LEAD Raphaella Frame-Tolmie
MARKETING MANAGER FOODS
Tumi Monare

EXECUTIVE TEAM
CEO Aileen Lamb COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Maria Tiganis STRATEGY DIRECTOR Andrew Nunneley
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Venette Malone CEO MEDIA24 Ishmet Davidson

How do you embrace winter in the kitchen?

“I could eat Woolies’ butternut soup “I’m always in search of comforting “I often feel homesick during winter. “I get excited about eating more
(with an extra drizzle of cream) and food, even in summer! In winter, My grandmother’s oxtail stew porridge in winter. It just hits different
a crunchy garlic roll on the side every Irish stew is a favourite, as are curries. and barley soup were always my when it’s colder. My favourite is
night in winter. It never fails to make I also love eating bread-and-butter favourites growing up, so when creamy blue cheese polenta with figs,
me feel comforted and warm.” pudding when it’s colder.” the homesickness hits, that’s what fermented Maltabella, and oats with
– Fatima Saib – Abigail Donnelly I make.” – Lesego Madisa xigugu.” – Khanya Mzongwana

CONVERSION CHART
250 ml = 1 cup 125 ml = ½ cup 65 ml = ¼ cup 15 ml = 1 tablespoon 45 ml = 3 tablespoons
190 ml = ¾ cup 85 ml = ¹⁄ cup 5 ml = 1 teaspoon 30 ml = 2 tablespoons 60 ml = 4 tablespoons

COMPETITION TERMS AND CONDITIONS * Woolworths products featured are subject to


The winners will be the first correct entries drawn after the closing date. In the event of the judges not being availability and may not be available at all stores.
able to contact the selected winner on contact details supplied, an alternative winner will be selected. The All prices include VAT and were correct at the time
judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. The prize is not transferable and may of going to press. Offers available while stocks
not be converted into cash. Employees of Woolworths, New Media and the prize sponsor company, their last. Not all products and ingredients featured are
families, agencies or any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. Only one entry per available from Woolworths. While all precautions
person will be allowed. All details correct at time of going to print. Note that some expenses may not be have been taken to ensure the accuracy of
included in the prize. Visit taste.co.za for prize-specific information and terms and conditions. Entry is limited information, neither the publisher and editor, nor
to South African residents over the age of 18. Unless otherwise specified, the closing date for all giveaways New Media, can be held liable for any inaccuracies,
and competitions in this issue is 27 June 2024. Terms and conditions apply, see above. injuries or damages that may arise.

SUBSCRIPTIONS & DISTRIBUTION Subscriptions hotline: 087 353 1291

Repro by: New Media Printed by: CTP Printers


34 513
Q4 2023
Published on behalf of Woolworths
by New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd, 8th floor,
Media 24 Centre, 40 Heerengracht, Cape Town, 8001
Telephone: +27 (21) 406 2002 newmedia.co.za

10 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


What’s happening online? @WWTaste
T

What’s for supper?


The answer to this age-old question is easy to find – sign up to the weekly
TASTE newsletter to get easy recipes sent directly to your inbox

In a perfect world, with infinite


time and money, meal-
planning would be pleasant.
Imagine poring over recipe
books and magazines, scrolling
through your saved folder on
Instagram – perhaps even
messaging a friend for their
potato salad recipe, building
up to a glorious, colour-coded
meal plan containing meals
you’re excited to make and eat.
But far too often, it’s a more
rushed scenario. Some plan in
the aisles – you can see them
hesitating in front of the beef
shin – as they calculate how
many of their family members
will willingly eat a beef shin
stew, and whether they’ll have
enough leftovers to stuff some
pitas the following night.
For others, it happens
all week long, in a kind of
background tab in their minds,
taking up valuable bandwidth.
And lastly there are those
who subscribe to the “if it’s
Tuesday, it must be spaghetti
Bolognese” school of thought. PHOTOGRAPH MYBURGH DU PLESSIS PRODUCTION KELETSO MOTAU
Since none of these scenarios
are ideal, we have a suggestion:
FOOD ASSISTANTS LERATO MOTAU AND IVAN MASIYAZI

sign up for our weekly


newsletter and let us make
some suggestions.
Every week, we put together
a list of five achievable
One new newsletter subscriber
weeknight meals with a
will win a R1 000 Woolies gift
balance of different kinds of
protein, plenty of veg, and one
Sign card to spend however they wish!
sweet treat. Make them all or up How to enter:
pick a couple to break up the and Visit taste.co.za/newsletter-sign-
monotony of the mince, pasta, win! up and fill in your details to enter,
or simply scan this QR code.
chicken rotation.
We promise to never share Sign up before 25 June 2024 to enter.
your details or spam you!

12 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


COMPETI TI ON

A LUCKY TASTE READER WILL WIN


A WEBER GENESIS SMART GRILL WORTH R43 999

Weber’s new Genesis Smart Grill with Weber Connect smart technology is your secret to perfectly grilled food. Simply set your desired
result and receive notifications when it’s time to flip and serve while you get on with entertaining your guests. Medium-rare steak?
Perfect every time. Weber’s expandable top cooking grate creates a second level so you can cook more at once, while its largest and
hottest sear zone allows you to sear more steaks to create a full restaurant-quality meal in one go. Add an extra-large prep and serving
table and custom grillware, and you’ve got all your bases covered. weber.co.za

To enter, visit taste.co.za. Ts&Cs apply.

14 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


A GRILL MADE

FOR LASTING
MEMORIES

WEBER, FOREVER.
this

can
the

WHEN WE FARM, WE TREAT THE EARTH


AS AN ECOSYSTEM, NOT AS A FACTORY.
WE CALL IT FARMING FOR THE FUTURE,
AND WE BELIEVE IT CAN HELP SAVE THE WORLD.
FIND OUT HOW
SEASON A L KI TCHEN

Now in season: all the squash, loads


of mushrooms, a bounty of apples and
the first citrus. Make the most of your autumn
haul with Hannah Lewry's easy dinners – good
for a midweek family supper (creamy one-pot
chicken), or for batch-cooking ahead for curry
night (tasty beef rendang)

EASY

FRIED HALLOUMI WITH


CLEMENGOLD-AND-
DATE SYRUP AND
15-MINUTE LAVASH
R32 PER SERVING

18 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


SEASON A L KI TCHEN

BEEF RENDANG CURRY


WITH ROAST PUMPKIN
R46 PER SERVING

PHOTOGRAPHS
ANDREA VAN DER SPUY
RECIPES AND PRODUCTION
HANNAH LEWRY
FOOD ASSISTANT
JACQUELINE BURGESS

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 19


SEASON A L KI TCHEN

MAKE IT YOUR OWN


If kale isn’t your thing,
swap it for baby spinach.
This recipe is delicious
with baked potatoes,
pasta or brown rice.

ONE-POT WONDER CREAMY


SPINACH-AND-CHICKEN
FLORENTINE
R75 PER SERVING

20 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


SEASON A L KI TCHEN

BABY MARROW FALAFEL


WITH MINTED YOGHURT
AND POMEGRANATE
R12 PER SERVING

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 21


SEASON A L KI TCHEN

WEEKEND ENTERTAINING SNACK star anise 2


FRIED HALLOUMI WITH cinnamon sticks 2
CLEMENGOLD-AND-DATE ground cinnamon 1 T
SYRUP AND 15-MINUTE coconut cream 1 x 400 ml can
LAVASH water 2 cups
“Woolies’ date syrup has a wonderful sweet Woolworths dried lime leaves 4
taste with just a hint of bitterness, a delicious caster sugar 2 t
contrast with fragrant citrus and salty halloumi. desiccated coconut 30 g, toasted
This recipe is great for last-minute guests as salt, to taste
a casual snack with wine on a cool evening.” Woolworths small Kuri pumpkins
3, cut into even wedges
Serves 4 olive oil 3 T
EASY sea salt and freshly ground black
GREAT VALUE pepper, to taste
Preparation: 20 minutes Woolworths fully cooked coconut
Cooking: 15 minutes jasmine rice 2 x 250 g sachets
red chilli, chopped, to garnish
For the syrup: coriander, to garnish
Woolworths date syrup 4 T
ClemenGold 1, zested and juiced 1 Brown the beef in the oil in batches in
bay leaves 3 a large cast-iron pan. Once browned all
rosemary 2 sprigs over, remove from the pan. 2 Place the chilli,
ginger, garlic, onions and lemongrass in a
For the lavash: food processor. Add a splash of water and
flour 100 g, plus extra for sprinkling blend to make a rough paste. 3 Using the
wholewheat flour 50 g (alternatively, same pan, cook the paste over a medium-
use plain flour) low heat for 5 minutes until softened and
salt ½ t fragrant. 4 In a separate pan, toast the spices,
oil 3 T then fold through the onion paste. Fry for a
water 5 T further 1–2 minutes, then add the coconut
Woolworths roast seed-and-coriander cream, water and lime leaves. Bring to a
dukkah spice 2 T simmer, then add the beef, caster sugar and
sea salt, for sprinkling coconut. Cover and simmer slowly on the
MAKE-AHEAD AND FREEZE DINNER stovetop or place in the oven at 160°C for
halloumi 300 g, torn BEEF RENDANG CURRY 2–2½ hours, stirring every 45 minutes or so
WITH ROAST PUMPKIN until the meat is tender. Remove from the
1 To make the syrup, place all the ingredients “I love eating this curry with roasted Kuri oven and allow to rest. 5 During the last hour
in a small pan and simmer for 3–5 minutes. pumpkin wedges. The skin is thin and soft when of cooking the curry, place the pumpkin
Set aside. 2 To make the lavash, preheat the cooked and the sweet flesh works beautifully wedges on a baking tray, drizzle with olive
oven to 220°C. Combine the flours and salt in with the earthy, mild curry. As with all curries, oil, season and roast for 1 hour, or until soft
a mixing bowl. Make a well in the centre and this one tastes even better the next day. and caramelised. Scoop off any excess oil
add 2 T olive oil. Stir in the water and mix to Make a big batch and freeze the leftovers.” from the curry, check the seasoning and
form a stiff dough, then tip out onto a lightly serve with the warm coconut rice and
floured work surface. 3 Divide the dough Serves 8 roast pumpkin. Garnish with the chilli
into small balls and roll out to make long oval EASY and coriander.
shapes about 15 cm long. Place on a lined GREAT VALUE Cook’s note: The curry is also delicious
baking sheet. Lightly brush the surface of Preparation: 45 minutes served with toasted rotis.
the dough with water and sprinkle with the Cooking: 3 hours DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
dukkah and salt. Bake for 7–10 minutes, or WINE: Diemersdal Chardonnay
until lightly golden and crisp. Transfer to Woolworths free-range stewing beef
a wire rack to cool. Heat in the oven just on the bone 1.5 kg, cut into 5 cm pieces
before serving. 4 Fry the halloumi in a pan vegetable oil 4 T
until golden brown, then remove from Woolworths prepared chilli, ginger
PUMPKIN PATCH
the heat and pour over the syrup. and garlic 2 punnets
Cook’s note: Serve with baguette instead onions 2, chopped Versatile Kuri pumpkin is a relative
of lavash, if you prefer. Woolworths lemongrass paste 1 t
of hubbard squash and has a rich,
sweet flavour that shines through
MEAT-FREE ground turmeric 2 T in pies and soups.
WINE: Woolworths Light White Blend cardamon pods 2 t, crushed

22 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


SEASON A L KI TCHEN

SZECHUAN PEPPER CRISPY TOFU


WITH SHIITAKE MUSHROOM NOODLES
AND SMASHED CUCUMBERS
R60 PER SERVING

SWAP SHOP
You could also use any of your favourite
seasonal greens or even one of
Woolworths’ convenient stir-fry packs.

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 23


SEASON A L KI TCHEN

FAMILY FAVOURITE sea salt and freshly ground black


ONE-POT WONDER pepper, to taste
CREAMY SPINACH-AND- chickpeas 400 g, soaked overnight
CHICKEN FLORENTINE (or use canned chickpeas)
“This dish transports me right back to my ground cumin 2 t
childhood dinner table. The amount of ground coriander 2 t
flavour it packs and the guaranteed paprika 2 t
succulence of the chicken is unmatched.” garlic 3 cloves, chopped
green chilli 1, chopped
Serves 4 Italian parsley 10 g
EASY coriander 5 g
GREAT VALUE mint 5 g
Preparation: 25 minutes lemon 1, zested and juiced
Cooking: 50 minutes black and white sesame seeds,
for rolling
olive oil 2 T vegetable oil, for frying
Woolworths free-range chicken
drumsticks and thighs 1 x 900 g pack For the minted yoghurt:
sea salt and freshly ground black Woolworths plain double-cream
pepper, to taste yoghurt 1 cup
Woolworths sliced portabellini mint 5 g, plus extra for serving
mushrooms 1 x 250 g pack lemon or lime 1, zested
fresh thyme 5 g sea salt and freshly ground black
onion 1, finely chopped pepper, to taste
garlic 4 cloves, finely chopped garlic ½ clove, chopped
kale 100 g, finely chopped spring onions 2, chopped
Swiss chard 200 g, finely chopped
cream 2 cups pomegranate rubies, for serving
Woolworths chicken liquid stock fresh limes or lemons, for serving
concentrate sachet 1 x 25 g stick,
diluted with ½ cup hot water 1 Place the grated baby marrow in a
Woolworths grated Parmesan colander and sprinkle with salt. Allow
1 x 60 g tub to stand for 5 minutes, then squeeze to
lemon, for serving the chicken is cooked through. Check the drain out any excess water. 2 Place the
seasoning. 5 Serve warm with a squeeze remaining falafel ingredients except the
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Heat the olive of lemon and the remaining Parmesan. oil in a food processor or blender and
oil in a large, shallow cast-iron saucepan CARB-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND blend to form a coarse paste. Shape the
over a medium to high heat and season GLUTEN-FREE mixture into small patties, roll in sesame
the chicken. Sear the chicken until golden WINE: Tokara Merlot seeds and shallow-fry over a medium
brown all over. Remove from the heat heat for 2 minutes on each side, or until
and set aside. 2 In the same pan, fry the FLAVOUR-PACKED VEGGIE MEAL browned. Drain on kitchen paper.
mushrooms and thyme until browned, BABY MARROW FALAFEL 3 To make the minted yoghurt, place all
then remove from the pan and set aside. WITH MINTED YOGHURT the ingredients into a food processor
3 You may need to add a little more AND POMEGRANATE and blend, adjusting the flavours to
olive oil or butter to the pan at this point. “This recipe is really all about the blender, your liking. 4 Spread onto a platter,
Reduce the heat to medium-low and making it super-easy and mess free. Make top with the falafel and sprinkle with
soften the onion and garlic for 5 minutes. sure to squeeze out the baby marrow to more mint, grated baby marrow and
Add the kale and Swiss chard and cook avoid a soggy result.” pomegranate rubies. Serve with the
until wilted. Return the mushrooms to the limes or lemons. These are delicious as
pan and stir to combine. 4 Add the cream, Serves 6 they are or stuffed into warmed pita
chicken stock and half the Parmesan. EASY breads with pickled red onion.
Do not add more salt until the dish has GREAT VALUE Cook’s note: Only weigh the
finished cooking. Combine and bring to Preparation: 45 minutes, plus optional chickpeas after they have soaked
a simmer. Return the chicken to the pan. overnight soaking time overnight.
The sauce should come about halfway up Cooking: 15 minutes MEAT-FREE, WHEAT- AND
the chicken but should not cover it. Add GLUTEN-FREE
a little water if necessary. Cover with a lid baby marrows 200 g, grated, plus extra WINE: Woolworths Boschendal Blanc
and simmer for 20–25 minutes, or until for serving de Noir Rosé

24 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


SEASON A L KI TCHEN

CARAMELISED APPLE AND


ROASTED RED CABBAGE WITH
SALTY PORK CHOPS AND
CURRANT DRESSING
R38 PER SERVING

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 25


SEASON A L KI TCHEN

PLANT-BASED MIDWEEK SUPPER


SZECHUAN PEPPER
“There is something
CRISPY TOFU WITH unbeatable about the
SHIITAKE MUSHROOM timeless combination
NOODLES AND of salty pork, sweet
SMASHED CUCUMBERS apples and buttery
“This is one of my all-time favourite ways cabbage”
of eating tofu. If you don’t have Szechuan
pepper, substitute with a mix of peppercorns.”

Serves 4
EASY
GREAT VALUE Serves 6
Preparation: 20 minutes EASY
Cooking: 15 minutes GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 30 minutes
Woolworths PlantLove fresh firm tofu Cooking: 45 minutes
1 x 350 g carton
Szechuan peppercorns 1 t, toasted green cabbage 1, cut into wedges
and ground olive oil 5 T
black pepper 2 t, toasted and ground cumin seeds 1 T
salt, to taste sea salt and freshly ground black
cornflour 80 g pepper, to taste
vegetable oil, for frying lemon 1, quartered
red onion 1, cut into wedges
For the smashed cucumber: Woolworths Kids pink apples 3, halved
cucumber 1, halved lengthways butter 100 g
rice wine vinegar ½ cup Woolworths pork loin chops 6
caster sugar 2 t rosemary or sage, a few sprigs
sesame oil a few drops
green chilli 1, chopped (optional) For the currant dressing:
Woolworths mixed seedless raisin
For the noodles: and currant selection 80 g
Woolworths PlantLove shiitake the cornflour. Shallow-fry in a little oil until ClemenGold 1, zested and juiced
noodles 2 x 100 g sachets pale golden and crispy. Remove and drain red wine vinegar 1 T
Woolworths shiitake mushrooms on kitchen paper. 4 To make the noodles, dill 1 T chopped
1 x 300 g punnet, sliced cook the noodles according to package
red onion, 1 cut into petals instructions. Pan-fry the mushrooms in a 1 Preheat the oven to 220°C. Toss the
Woolworths fresh edamame little oil, then remove from the pan. Pan-fry cabbage in 3 T olive oil, the cumin seeds
beans 120 g the onion until glossy and tender. Add the and seasoning. Arrange on a baking
fresh coriander, for serving noodles, mushrooms, edamame beans tray with the lemon wedges, onion and
Woolworths fresh Asian sesame and tofu to the same pan and toss with the apples. Dot with butter and roast for
stir-fry sauce 2 x 100 g sachets stir-fry sauce to coat. Serve hot, garnished 25–30 minutes, turning halfway through.
with coriander, with smashed cucumbers 2 Meanwhile, make the currant dressing.
1 Press the tofu between two sheets of on the side. Place the currants in a small pan with the
kitchen paper and weight down with a HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, PLANT-BASED ClemenGold juice and simmer for a few
plate and some canned food while you WINE: Thelema Chardonnay minutes. Remove from the heat and fold
make the smashed cucumber. This releases in the zest, vinegar and dill. Set aside.
any excess liquid. 2 To make the smashed OLD-SCHOOL CLASSIC 3 Fry the pork chops in batches in the
cucumber, smash the cucumber with a CARAMELISED APPLE AND remaining olive oil, herbs and salt until
rolling pin or something heavy to crush it ROASTED RED CABBAGE golden brown and crispy. 4 Serve warm
a little and create rough edges. Tear the WITH SALTY PORK CHOPS with the roasted apple and cabbage
cucumber into small pieces and toss with AND CURRANT DRESSING and currant dressing. Squeeze the roasted
the remaining ingredients. Set aside until “There is something unbeatable about the lemons over the vegetables.
ready to serve. 3 Mix the peppercorns, timeless combination of salty pork, sweet HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND
salt and cornflour. Add more pepper apples and buttery cabbage. I love this with GLUTEN-FREE
if you like more heat. Cut the tofu into Woolworths’ creamy ready-made mash – WINE: Kleine Zalze Old Vine
bite-sized blocks and generously dust in it’s a gamechanger.” Chenin Blanc

26 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

Earn bragging rights with the perfect gift-wrapped bottle to give on Mother’s and Father’s
Day. If mom enjoys a dry rosé, impress her with the stone fruit notes of Waterford Rose-
Mary (R149.99). She'll also love the fruity Luxury Astoria Prosecco DOC Gold (R229.99), elegant
Steenberg Pinot Noir Brut Cap Classique (R234.99) and Graham Beck Bliss Nectar Rosé (R214.99),
while Warwick’s Cape Lady Red Blend (R119.99) is as timeless as she is.
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL

Shopping for dad is just as easy with his favourite red, including the Rust en
Vrede Cabernet Sauvignon (439.99), Meerlust Rubicon (R649.99), Alto Cabernet
Sauvignon (R179.99) and La Motte Pierneef Shiraz Viognier (R309.99). Or, add
a fine white to his collection with Spier’s Private Collection Chenin Blanc
(R159.99). woolworths.co.za
A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

If convenience was a
language, Woolworths
would be fluent. Why make
everything from scratch
when they’ve done half
the work for you? You can
now purchase meal kits for
chilli-garlic prawn pasta
and seafood chowder
at selected Woolworths
seafood counters. All the
descaling, deveining and
debearding has been
done for you. Each kit
comes with everything
you need to make your
seafood dish – sauces,
pasta, seasonings, and
the all-important seafood.

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIREELLEN VAN ROOYEN
Follow the instructions and
dig in! woolworths.co.za
Available in selected stores from 6 May.

Scan the QR code


above to watch Clem
Pedro using the new
seafood meal kits.
EAT THIS, DRINK THAT,
BUY THESE. RIGHT NOW.
COMPILED BY JEANNE CALITZ
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG

A LL TI E D U P It’s not just you – there really are ribbons everywhere. Fresh off the fashion runways, where
the coquette look is à la mode, FoodTokkers are tying fabric around tacos and fries, even threading it through bread.
Each to their own, we say. At TASTE, we’re having fun with edible bows made from baby marrows, carrots and celery.
Case in point, this little snack: place a dollop of Woolies’ new goat’s-cheese cream on a plate, top with shaved baby
marrow styled into ribbons, dust with trout pearls, scatter with crumbled blue cheese, season to taste – and share on
TikTok before taking a bite.

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 31


O F F T H E M ENU

NEW RESTAURANTS

Made to order
Cooking with fire, Mediterranean-inspired fare and dishes made
using homegrown produce on the KZN South Coast are on the
menus of our must-visit restaurants around the country Kayla-Ann’s,
Pennington
After years spent honing her craft
as executive chef at restaurants
including Chef’s Table and Delaire
Graff, South Coast-born Kayla-Ann
Osborn has come full circle with the
opening of her own restaurant in the
Umdoni Conservancy. “People said
we were mad to open a fine-dining
restaurant here,” she laughs. “And
sure, I don’t sleep most nights, but
I can’t believe that I get to live here,
where I grew up, and do what I love.”
It helps that the restaurant is
very much a family affair. Her
brother-in-law, Cairn Hanafey, is head
chef, his brother, Ayrton Hanafey,
runs front of house, and all the
veggies used in the kitchen are
grown by Kayla-Ann’s mom,
Samantha Osborn, who also bakes
their sourdough. The menu is small,
heavily influenced by local produce,
and changes often. A mainstay is the
grilled halloumi starter, comprising
Kayla-Ann’s home-made halloumi
with tomatoes and basil from her
mom’s garden, served on crostini
made from her mom’s sourdough.
kaylaanns.co.za; tel: 071 492 5647

The Terrace, Muldersdrift (above)


Located on the Cronjé family farm in Muldersdrift, the venue known as Ground is already “PEOPLE SAID
a thriving events space (think weddings, hikes and picnics), but has recently welcomed
a new restaurant to the stable. “The Terrace’s focus is on simple food, done really well,”
WE WERE MAD
explains Nicci Campbell, Ground’s marketing manager (who married into the Cronjé TO OPEN A
family). “We love long, relaxed lunches in a beautiful space – we want you to feel
like you’re on holiday.” If the scenic venue does not succeed in giving you all the
FINE-DINING
Mediterranean holiday feels; the menu certainly will. Influenced by the family’s travels RESTAURANT
HERE” – KAYLA-
TEXT JEANNE CALITZ

to Spain, Greece and Italy, guests can look forward to small plates of bites such as
chicken Caesar salad croquettes or fresh tuna skewers with miso mayo. Don’t sleep
on the whole baked fish of the day, which has become a showstopping favourite. ANN OSBORN
Pair it with a drink from the well-stocked bar (limoncello spritz, anyone?).
groundthevenue.com; tel: 063 296 2274

32 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


O F F T H E M ENU

Vuur Goose
Island, Remhoogte,
Stellenbosch
After the success of VUUR restaurant, which
opened on Remhoogte estate in 2021, lovers
of fire-based cooking can now book a spot
at VUUR Goose Island under the helm of
head chef and braai connoisseur Shaun
Scrooby, pictured with Mandre Campher on
his right. As the name suggests, it’s located
on a small island (named after a flock of
resident Egyptian geese) in a dam. The
restaurant is reached via a bridge and seats
16 at a communal table, with two seats at
the chef’s counter. Expect a seven-course
menu that changes daily, with everything
cooked over the fire. “Our lunches are not
short,” warns Shaun with a laugh. “If you
leave at 4:30 pm, it’s early!” Considering you’ll
be plied with the likes of mosbolletjies with
plum-and-rooibos jam, and venison basted
with Shaun’s fat-enriching flambadou
technique, it sounds like no hardship at all.
vuurgooseisland.com; tel: 083 600 4050

Mertia,
Stellenbosch
Discerning diners should take note of this
brainchild of founders Marais Kirsten-Uys
(left) and chef Matt van den Berg (far left).
Says Matt, who cut his fine-dining teeth

PHOTOGRAPHS CLAIRE GUNN VUUR AND DANIELA ZONDAGH MERTIA


in kitchens including The Test Kitchen
and La Colombe: “We like to call the food
we make at MERTIA ‘refined dining’. It’s
not stiff and stuffy.” Guests can look
forward to a seasonal menu with a
hyper-local focus (Matt raves about fresh
produce from Mason farm just outside
town) and a touch of South African
nostalgia. Expect dishes such as “jam and
cheese on toast”: home-made sourdough
with a savoury strawberry jam, mature
Cheddar and Catalan butter; or revel in
the Indian flavours of sous-vide octopus
with compressed melon and a
TEXT JEANNE CALITZ

cucumber-and-yoghurt ice cream (raita)


with rice flour tempura potato leaf with
brinjal. Don’t mind if we do! mertia.co.za

34 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


OFF THE MENU

NEW ENTRY

Sweet baby cakes Chocolate-


caramel mini
teacake: Here’s
one for the
Woolies’ new individual mini teacakes put the “I” in high tea. But since they chocoholics –
chocolate sponge
come in a pack of four, you won’t mind sharing meets all-butter
chocolate icing,
lightly salted
caramel to cut
through that
decadent
chocolate profile,
with fudge pieces
scattered on top.
Milk tart-flavoured mini To add to the
teacake: Think essence quality, Woolies
of milk tart – vanilla uses responsibly
sponge is topped with sourced cocoa.
condensed milk icing
and a dusting of
cinnamon. This cake
introduces a new type
of icing to the range:
the cooked condensed
milk icing is made by
preparing a thick, Individual
egg-free custard using attention: Each
condensed milk, which teacake is hand-
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG TEXT JEANNE CALITZ

is set until firm, before piped by the


being whipped with skilled bakers at
real butter. Sigh… Woolies’ exclusive
suppliers. All the
cakes are made
using free-range
eggs and, while
the sponge cakes
are oil-based, the
icings are made
with real butter.

Berry snowball mini


teacake: This nostalgic
favourite consists Perfectly
of vanilla sponge proportioned:
cake topped with Every teacake
strawberry jam and weighs in at
desiccated coconut. around 55 g –
For a modern twist, their size makes
fresh lemon zest is them perfect for
added to the sponge a standalone treat,
to enhance the fruity or to mix and
flavours of the match on a plate
strawberry jam. so you can
appreciate all the
different flavours.

R72.99 for 4

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 37


O F F T H E M ENU

FOOD NERD TO FOLLOW Ultimate kitchen tool?

Dale Gray
My Le Creuset signature round
casserole is a workhorse! It
makes cooking that much
more enjoyable and delivers
consistent results every time.
You could say that food writer Dale Gray, who
has 211 000 Instagram followers, is a real
“Southern” girl. Her cookbook, South of
Somewhere: Recipes and Stories from my Life in What would people
be surprised to find
South Africa, South Korea and the American South, in your fridge?
will have you poring over the vibrant dishes My bottom drawer is
from her nomadic experiences always stocked with a
cheese. Also: a big jar of
two-year-old preserved
watermelon rind that my
grandmother made. I keep
it in remembrance of her.

Your most
popular recipe?

PORTRAIT DALE GRAY PHOTOGRAPHS GETTYIMAGES.COM INTERVIEW JEANNE CALITZ


My version of caldo verde
is by far one of my most
popular recipes. My soup
has Southern influences
and contains smoked
sausage and collard greens
or kale in combination with
sweet smoked paprika for
depth of flavour.

Hard-to-find SA craving?
Thankfully most items can be found
these days if you’re willing to look
hard enough. I sometimes order a few
Woolworths pantry staples (hello,
tangy mayo!) from Canada. But most
of us, myself included, really wish we
could get our hands on a pepper
steak pie from Woolies.

Are you a rusk


Dale Gray
person? And to dunk
or not to dunk?
Are you even South African
if you’re not a rusk person?
Who are your food heroes?
Yes, I am. And I always dunk!
I can’t talk about food without acknowledging my grandmother
and mother. They both expressed love by preparing nutritious
meals for the family, and I can almost smell the aroma of our
Sunday curry when I think of that moment in time. Follow @thedaleyplate on Instagram and visit thedaleyplate.com.

38 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


O F F T H E M ENU

The Taste case


Cool weather doesn’t have to mean switching to red wine, says sommelier Joseph Dhafana.
Follow his lead and select the right whites (not too chilled!) to suit cosy nights and comfort food

I often tell people down when it’s served too cold. the colder side, tasting it, then pear flavours of a Viognier,
who say white wine This does depend on the letting it slowly warm up in the the rich butteriness of a
is too cold for autumn varietal, but lighter whites can glass as you sip – a great way to Chardonnay or the hint of oak
and winter that usually be poured at between experience the changes in its in a wood-matured Chenin.
they’ve probably 7 and 10°C, while more full- distinctive characteristics. These are six of my favourite
overchilled their wine. bodied or oaked wines will For cold-weather sipping, white wines and bubbles for
Serve it at the right temperature generally taste their best rather than salinity and sipping on crisp autumn days
and you’ll get maximum between 10 and 13°C. minerality, think about the and cooler nights. I hope you
enjoyment from the aromas I suggest experimenting by complexity and yeastiness enjoy them as much as I do –
and flavours, which will be shut pouring your chosen wine on of a Cap Classique, the ripe and slightly warmer than usual!

4
3
2
OF F T HE MEN U

1 Ken Forrester 4 Diemersdal


grilled pork chops and roast as butternut and pumpkin.
Reserve Collection chicken. R89.99 R109.99 Reserve Collection
Chenin Blanc Sauvignon Blanc
2 De Wetshof Limestone 3 Creation Viognier
This is a delicious medium- A classic Sauvignon Blanc from
bodied, wood-matured Chenin Hill Chardonnay Viognier is a great partner the Durbanville valley, this has
with a beautiful lemon colour Golden in colour with ripe for mild, creamy curries and a bright lemon-lime colour,
in the glass and aromas of peach and lemon on the nose, noodles, rich shellfish, creamy, light and elegant palate and
lemon, guava and prickly pear. this dry wine is buttery on the buttery dishes, as well as root fresh, zippy acidity. I enjoy the
Dry and elegant, it has lovely palate with hints of spices such vegetables. This cool-climate guava, green apple, capsicum
floral notes and a refreshing, as cinnamon and vanilla, as Viognier from the Hemel- and asparagus on the palate
cutting acidity. It’s great with well as fig, peach and coconut. en-Aarde region has hints of – a tasty combination of ripe
There’s a vibrant acidity that poached pear and rose on fruit and herbaceous qualities.
makes it a versatile food match the nose, subtle floral flavours, It’s perfect for sipping on its
for everything from grilled fish and is medium-bodied with own or pairing with shellfish.
to veal chops with mushrooms balanced acidity, making it a R94.99
and seasonal vegetables such versatile food wine. R164.99
5 WCC Brut Cap
Classique by Villiera
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION
BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT

Biscuity, brioche and yeasty


qualities make a Cap Classique
6
like this the perfect drink for a
cool evening. Expect notes of
RAYMAND BUITENDAG

citrus, peach, ripe pear, honey


and almond. I enjoy it with
pasta tossed in a creamy sauce,
5
or poached salmon or shellfish
with a buttery sauce and
seasonal vegetables. R174.99

6 Silverthorn
The Genie Rosé Brut
Made from 100% Shiraz grapes,
this bubbly has a tempting
salmon-pink colour with
aromas of cherries, strawberries
and Turkish delight. The
cherries follow through on the
palate and I really like the
fantastic mousse and fine
bubbles. It’s the perfect partner
for a snack of bruschetta
topped with prosciutto, ricotta
and rocket before everyone sits
down to the main course.
R299.99

Award-
winning
SASA-certified
sommelier
Joseph
Dhafana
is the
founder
of @mosiwineandspirits. He is
a wine judge and consultant
and also conducts wine tours.

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 41


O F F T H E M ENU

HAPPY HOUR

Jam session
Looking to add a dollop of flavour (and colour) to your
sundowner? Jeanne Calitz suggests reaching for a jam jar

Homely comforts like


hot buttered toast,
scones, or a stack
of flapjacks may be the first
thing that comes to mind when you think
of jams and preserves. But here’s a new
association for you: how about a cocktail?
Not only is it perfectly acceptable to add
jam to your drink; it’s recommended. Firstly,
it acts as sweetener, meaning there’s less
need to use simple syrups or ingredients
like honey or molasses.
Secondly, it brings a punch of fruity
flavour to the mix. So why not experiment? THE PLUM SOUR
Substitute the cranberry juice in your
cosmo with some berry jam. Add a scoop
of gooseberry preserve to your daiquiri
and see how you get on. There’s even the
revelation that is the so-called “breakfast
martini” – a lemony concoction made using
gin and marmalade (see the recipe below)
– whether you decide to actually enjoy it
over breakfast is down to your own risk-
benefit analysis.
For all these drinks, it’s worth taking the
time to loosen the jam with 1–2 t boiling

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG
water – this helps it to really merge with the
other ingredients. It also keeps things from
getting, shall we say, a little sticky. In any
case, we hope you’ll get properly stuck
on these jammy delights. W @jtcalitz

THE PLUM SOUR Shake over ice, strain and (don’t knock it till you’ve Triple Sec or
serve in a coupe or a short tried it!). Cointreau 1 T
Woolworths plum- glass filled with ice. Go all London dry gin 45 ml
and-strawberry jam out and rim the glass with THE BREAKFAST
2 t, loosened with water a lick of strawberry jam MARTINI Shake over ice, then strain
Scotch whisky 45 ml and dust with dehydrated orange marmalade into a martini glass. Garnish
fresh lemon juice 2 T strawberry powder or 1–2 t, loosened with water with lemon or orange peel,
simple syrup 1 T strawberry jelly powder fresh lemon juice 1 T or a slice of lemon.

42 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


S C E N E STE ALER

ISLAND IN THE

Yes, you could drive around the perimeter of


Reunion in four hours, but why would you want to?
Plan a (visa-free!) trip and take your time to meet
the friendly locals, discover Creole cuisine, and
shop for excellent vanilla, rum and coffee
PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS TEXT MICHELLE COBURN

44 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


S CEN E ST EA L ER

PAYET & RIVIÈRE FOR ARTISANAL SUGAR, SYRUPS AND BONBONS


You’ve never tasted sugar quite like galabé, a heritage delicacy made from sugar cane juice that takes
various forms – from thick, dark syrups to crystallised sugar, caramel spread and melt-in-the-mouth
bonbons. Book a tour of the micro-factory on the historic Bel Air estate where artisans craft products
endorsed by French chefs such as Michelin-starred Anne-Sophie Pic. Owner Alexis Rivière shares insight
into the products: “There is sweetness, but there is also depth due to different chemical reactions, such as
the Maillard reaction, during production. The syrup can be used in marinades, vinaigrettes and cocktails.
Serve the bonbons with coffee after dinner.” 50 Chemin Transversal du Bel Air, Saint-Suzanne; @payetetriviere

CHEZ BILLY
FOR LUNCH AT A
FAMILYRUN CREOLE
RESTAURANT
A drive through the cirque
de Salazie brings you to
the picturesque mountain
village of Hell-bourg. It’s
home to traditional Creole
restaurant Chez Billy,
which is run by Billy Benoit,
his partner, Jessica, and
her sister, Melanie. The
chalkboard menu lists
traditional favourites
such as crunchy fritters
with chouchou filling and
chilli sauce for starters;
rougail saucisses (pork
sausage stew), or brinjal-
and-potato cari for mains,
and artisanal coconut
ice cream and ti’son
cornflour cake with
litchi jam for dessert.
10 Imp. des Aubépines, Salazie

CHEZ LOULOU
FOR CREOLE BAKES AND SNACKS
Chez Loulou is a Saint-Gilles institution
and if you visit near lunch or dinner
time, you’re likely to join a queue that
spills into the street. Do as the locals
PHOTOGRAPH (LEFT) IRT/MICHEL VESPASIEN

do and order a selection of samoosas,


savoury pâtés (pies) filled with chicken
or pork, bouchon (dim sum) and
bonbons piment (fritters made with
butter beans) to snack on at the beachfront a few minutes’ walk
away. If you’re really hungry, order a takeaway cari. And make
sure you don’t miss traditional sweets such as coconut candy,
pineapple or chocolate-and-banana pâtés, and cake slices
such as gateau chouchou (chayote squash), manioc (cassava)
or patate (sweet potato).
15-23 Rue De La Poste, Saint-Gilles

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 45


S C E N E STE ALER

BAR DALONS
FOR CRAFT BEER WITH LOCAL FLAVOUR
In 2018, students Thibaut Colbachini, Joris Guedon
and Jonathan Hin Tung started making their own
beer in one of their parents’ garages. Today they
have a taproom in Sainte-Marie (where you’ll meet
brewmaster Achille Vermes and colleague Justine
Saint-Pierre) and two bars – one in Saint-Denis and
one in Saint-Gilles. Their artisanal beers are perfect thirst-quenchers
on balmy nights. You’ll also spot the colourful label incorporating
the historic Bel-Air Lighthouse in shops around the island.
8 Rue André Lardy, Sainte-Marie; bieredalons.com; @bar.dalons.stgilles;

5
@bar.dalons.stdenis

LA SAGA DU RHUM
FOR RUM FROM REUNION’S
OLDEST DISTILLERY
Discover the history, cultural significance
and craft behind Reunion’s famous spirit at
the island’s only rum museum in Saint-Pierre. La Saga
du Rhum is at the heart of the Isautier family distillery,
founded in 1845, and on your self-guided tour you’ll
discover the difference between rhum agricole (white
rum made using sugar cane juice) and traditional rum
(made using molasses). The tasting room offers the
chance to sip white and barrel-aged rums, cream liqueurs
and rhum “arrangés” – referring to the old practice of
sailors preserving fruit and spices in alcohol for long
journeys, which became a tradition on the island. Choose
your favourites – everything from coffee and vanilla to
litchi and granadilla – in the museum shop, where they
offer smaller bottles perfect for your luggage.
Chemin Frédeline, Saint-Pierre; sagadurhum.fr; lsautier.com

MAFATE CAFÉ
FOR A MODERN CREOLE BRUNCH
Named after one of Reunion’s three famous cirques, or
volcanic calderas, this award-winning coffee shop in the
capital, Saint-Denis, offers a contemporary interpretation
of Creole traditions using only products and ingredients
from the island. “Sweet and savoury are always combined
in a brunch,” says proprietor Jean-Charles Bertrand. “Here
we include rice with vegetables, topped with organic
farm eggs, as well as cod-and-sweet potato balls and
fried chicken.” Pair this with pancakes or a waffle made
with cassava flour and drizzled with dark salted caramel
sauce. There also sweet potato cakes filled with sweet-
tangy Plaine des Palmistes guava, platters of tropical fruit
and excellent coffee. Ask Jean-Charles to tell you about
Reunion’s rare Bourbon pointu coffee and pop into his
deli next door to buy a bag of the treasured beans.
Also stock up on home-made jams, preserves, fleur
de sel, vanilla, herbs and spices to take home.
3 Rue du Moulin à Vent, Saint-Denis; mafatecafe.com; @mafatecafe

46 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


S CEN E ST EA L ER

SAINTPIERRE OPEN MARKET


FOR PRODUCE, SPICES, ARTS AND CRAFTS
Every day of the week has its own market on
the island, and one of the most captivating is
the Saturday market in Saint-Pierre, where home
cooks and restaurant owners arrive early to fill
their baskets with produce grown in the island’s
fertile volcanic soil. The variety is overwhelming
– mango, jackfruit, bitter melon, turmeric,
geranium syrup, endemic herbal teas, infused
vinegars… There’s also plenty to eat and drink
as you take everything in, from croquettes and
barbequed chicken with pickled vegetables,
to coconut and sugar cane juice. And that’s all
before you’ve moved on to the stalls selling
clothing, jewellery and crafts. Set aside several
hours and come with euros – many stallholders
don’t have card facilities.
33 Bd Hubert Delisle, Saint-Pierre

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 47


S C E N E STE ALER

“The menu, created


by chefs Christian LE CHOKA BLEU
Virassamy-Macé FOR COCKTAILS AND COLOURFUL,
and Michelin-starred FLAVOURPACKED DISHES
Le Choka Bleu is the perfect place to sip
Nicolas Carro, uses a cocktail – try a ti’punch (small punch)
local ingredients in of white rum, lime juice, sugar syrup as
a combination of an apéritif – while you enjoy the view of
Creole and French the Hermitage Lagoon (known for the
dishes full of colour best snorkelling in Reunion). The menu,
and flavour”

48 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


S CEN E ST EA L ER

LA SIRANDANE
FOR A
created by chefs Christian Virassamy- buffet of meat, seafood and vegetable
TRADITIONAL
Macé and Michelin-starred Nicolas Carro, stews and caris. Still have room for
COOKING CLASS
uses local ingredients in a combination dessert? Choose the chocolate tart
“Creole food is
of Creole and French dishes full of colour topped with crisp-fried curry leaf or
real fusion food
and flavour. Starters include fresh palm their salted caramel “Paris-Brest” with
– a blend of flavours from China,
heart salad and octopus tataki, while mains a peanut-butter biscuit and vanilla ice
Madagascar and India can be found
could be beef fillet with Bourbon pointu cream.
here,” says La Sirandane owner Daniel
coffee jus and puréed heirloom sweet 2 Route de Saint-Pierre, Saline-Les-Bains,
Francome. He remembers spending
potato. Or opt for the traditional Creole Saint-Paul; facebook.com/le.choka.bleu
hours in his grandmother’s kitchen
as a child and, although he worked
in the computer industry for years,
the desire to share his love of cooking
eventually won. He spends his days
running workshops in the traditional
outdoor kitchen at his home in Saint-
Benoît, where families, groups of
friends and tourists gather to prepare
breakfast and lunch in cast-iron pots
over a wood-burning fire. You’ll learn
recipes including rougail saucisses,
and cari options such as prawn and
goat served with rice and beans, as
well as snacks such as samoosas. And
do sample Daniel’s home-made rhum
arrangés. Infusing white rum with
herbs, spices and fruit (see La Saga
du Rhum on p 46) is a tradition on the
island. He has many heady versions
to sip while you eat. 39 A Chemin Vidot,
Saint-Benoît; lasirandane.com

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 49


S C E N E STE ALER

LA VANILLERAIE
FOR ARTISANAL VANILLA PRODUCTS
You’ll find highly prized vanilla at this historic Saint-Suzanne estate.
La Vanilleraie has consistently been awarded medals at the Paris
Agricultural Show and, after a fascinating one-hour tour of the farm
and workshop (book online), you will understand why their vanilla
is in high demand in Parisian speciality shops and top restaurants.
Everything, from fertilising the flowers to harvesting the green pods
and measuring the dried pods, is done by hand. And the time- “You will understand
consuming process of preparing and maturing the vanilla to develop why their vanilla
its unique aromatic qualities is entrusted to an expert with 25 years is in high demand
of experience. The process from harvest to sale takes two years and in Parisian speciality
the pods are so precious that sales are limited to 20 g per family. Get shops and top
your quota at the estate shop, along with products including vanilla
extract, syrup, sugar, salt, oil and caramel cream. 2 ter Domaine du Grand
restaurants”
Hazier, All. Chassagne, Sainte-Suzanne; lavanilleraie.com; @lavanilleraie

STAY
REUNION NEED-TO-KNOW Saint-Paul on the west
coast is a great place to
base yourself. Hotel Le Saint
Alexis (hotelsaintalexis.
VISA WHEN TO GO GETTING THERE GETTING AROUND com) offers direct access to
Reunion is a The warm, humid season Air Austral offers flights The roads are excellent and Boucan Canot beach, where
department of France runs from November to from Johannesburg to self-drive is easy (if you’re you could while away many
but South African April, with tropical cyclones Saint-Denis twice a week accustomed to driving hours under the coconut
passport-holders don’t possible in January and in the warm season and on the right). But if you palms. That’s if you’re not
need a visa to visit for February. The cooler dry four times a week in the want a professional driver- enjoying the view from one
stays of up to 90 days. season runs from May cool season. guide with excellent local of the restaurant’s six cosy
to October. knowledge, contact Gregory balconies, or cooling down
Gutstein via geotravelers.re. in the impressive pool.

50 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

TURN UP THE TUNA!


The Woolies “tunaverse” is full of possibilities. Go for staples such as canned shredded tuna
or chunks in brine or oil, or explore 85 g pouches in exciting flavours including Mexican salsa,
tomato and herb, and black pepper and lime. Or try albacore tuna fillets in pasta dishes or
fancy salads. Can’t decide? Plate up an epic tuna platter of fish cakes, crostini, and a creamy
pâté using the whole range! Woolworths’ canned tuna and tuna pouches are 100% traceable
and responsibly caught as part of the Fishing for the Future initiative, which supports coastal
communities and protects our oceans and future tuna stocks. woolworths.co.za

Mini fish
cakes
Tuna
pâté
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL

Tuna crostini
TAST ES TH AT BIND

Soup power
The clever addition of an unexpected ingredient gives Sam Woulidge a pot of protein-
rich tomato soup that she can finally obsess over for the first time in her life

I had surgery earlier in the year. Not a big


deal. But I was put on a liquid diet for
two weeks afterwards. That was a big deal.
One night, still on my liquid-only diet,
trying to make amends, I made a Caprese
salad for Jacques with exotic tomatoes
TOMATO SOUP
WITH A PROTEIN
The day I was discharged from hospital, and a really good burrata. PUNCH
having had my fill of clear soups and jelly He ate it while I sipped on some soup.
and custard, I gingerly made my way to the I felt envious. Of the burrata and the basil. Serves 3 to 4
fridge, fully expecting that Jacques would He commented that he liked the sun- EASY
have stocked it according to the WhatsApp ripened heirloom tomatoes that I had GREAT VALUE
directives (including screenshots from used, knowing that if I were able to eat Preparation: 1 hour
Woolies) I had sent him from my hospital it, I would have swapped them for hard Cooking: 1 hour
bed. He had remembered the cranberry salad tomatoes. Because that’s how I like
juice and plain yoghurt but instead of my my tomatoes: hard, slightly green and cold red onions 2, finely chopped
favourite country vegetable soup, he had from the fridge. I know this is appalling olive oil 4 T
bought tomato soup. to some, but I care not. garlic 6 large cloves,
In the parlance of the day, I found this I began to wonder where my horror finely chopped
to be enormously triggering.“Why tomato of tomato soup had come from, tomato paste 1 x 70 g can
soup?” I wailed. “ I hate tomato soup. because I really do love hot tomatoey whole peeled tomatoes in
I wouldn’t eat it if I were starving!” things: tamatiesmoor, tamatiebredie, tomato juice 1 x 800 g can
I exclaimed dramatically. “You know shakshuka. And in that moment I realised vegetable stock 3 cups
I loathe gazpacho. And I cannot stand that this might actually be a Sam problem dried oregano 1 t
Bloody Marys. Tomato soup is your thing, and not a tomato soup problem. So salt 1 t
not mine,” I whimpered while swallowing the next night I made a tomato soup pepper 1 t (less if you prefer)
another pain pill. Looking murderously at and added smooth cottage cheese for fresh basil ¾ cup, roughly

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG
both the packet of tomato soup and my creaminess and, yes, protein. The internet chopped
husband, I left the kitchen. is full of people adding cottage cheese smooth plain low-fat
The next day the soup was gone. to everything. A month ago I would cottage cheese 1 x 250 g tub
Jacques had eaten it, happily, of course. have been horrified; now it appeals to
And I had calmed down by then and eaten me. It feels virtuous. I presented the soup 1 Soften the onions in the
my soup of choice. But I felt guilty about proudly. It was incredible. It had Caprese olive oil over a medium heat
my tantrum. Of course I eat tomato soup if I flavours from the basil, notes of rich for about 10 minutes. 2 Add
absolutely have to. As in, if I’ve been invited caramelised onion, and an intense tomato the garlic and simmer for a
to a dinner party and don’t want to appear base with enough pepper to give it a slight further 5 minutes. You may
rude. But I have never willingly bought it, bite. I was obsessed. wish to add another small
or heaven forbid, made it. But things can Seb initially regarded it with suspicion, drizzle of olive oil if necessary.
change. Often things must change. having grown up with me expressing my 3 Add the tomato paste,
For example, post-surgery I now own dislike. So I made him a cheese toastie tomatoes, stock, oregano, salt,
have something called protein goals. to go with it. He told me it was delicious pepper and basil and simmer
(Everybody, I subsequently learnt, is also and asked for a second bowl. Jacques was for 45 minutes. Allow to cool.
trying desperately to “hit” their protein surprised by my change of heart but ate it 4 Once cooled, blend until
goals.) I re-examine the contents of Seb’s enthusiastically. They told me they loved smooth using a hand-held
lunchboxes, adding chicken and more my soup, and finished the pot. “You have blender, then add the cottage
cheese. I interfere with Jacques’ morning hit your protein goals, boys,” I said. But they cheese and blend again.
smoothie ritual, insisting that he adds cared nothing about that. They only cared CARB-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT-
protein powder. I have, apparently, become that I had bothered to cook again, that AND GLUTEN-FREE
incredibly annoying. And all the while, the tomato soup was back on the menu, WINE: Warwick Cape Lady
memory of my tomato soup homecoming and I’d said that I was sorry. W Cabernet Sauvignon
fills me with guilt. @samwoulidge, confessionsofahungrywoman.com

52 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 TEXT SAM WOULIDGE


TAST ES T HAT B I N D

“Caprese flavours from the


basil, notes of rich caramelised
onion and an intense tomato
base – it was incredible”

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 53


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

QUICK, QUICK, SLOW


What if you could enjoy your favourite comfort classics without spending hours in the kitchen?
You can, thanks to Woolworths! The Easy Meals range has expanded to include ready-
prepped stews and slow roasts such as ox tripe, leg of lamb, venison shank potjie, ostrich
tenderloin and Asian-style beef shortrib. The packaging includes easy-to-follow instructions
so you can dig in in no time, even on weekdays. Serve with amadombolo, creamy pap, ting
or rice, or switch things up with pumpkin fritters and gnocchi. woolworths.co.za

OX TRIPE
Remove from
the packaging
and place in a
saucepan or
microwaveable
dish. Heat for 30
minutes. Serve
with Woolworths’
creamy spinach,
amadombolo, mild
chakalaka and
sliced green
chillies.
LEG OF LAMB Preheat the oven to 180°C. Remove the lamb from the packaging and place in a roasting pan
(set aside the sachet of sauce). Roast for 20 minutes. Pour off the pan juices and reserve for the gravy. Increase
the oven’s temperature to 220°C and return the lamb to the oven. Roast for a further 20–25 minutes, or until the
potatoes are soft and golden. Combine the pan juices with the sauce from the sachet and heat over a low heat.
Serve with Woolworths’ pumpkin fritters and steamed Tenderstem broccoli.
PHOTOGRAPH MYBURGH DU PLESSIS PRODUCTION HANNAH
LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIREELLEN VAN ROOYEN
FOOD I N N OVATOR

FLORAL-LAMINATED
PASTA AND ROASTED
HERBY TOMATOES
WITH CONFETTI BUSH
RICOTTA
R35 PER SERVING

56 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


FOOD I N N OVATOR

Book a workshop and cooking class with foraging expert


Roushanna Gray to discover the wild foods of the land and
ocean. You’ll leave Veld and Sea well fed, with new recipes
and fresh curiosity about the edible landscape around you

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY RECIPES ROUSHANNA GRAY


TEXT KHANYA MZONGWANA FOOD ASSISTANT CHERI KUSTNER

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 57


From left: A chalkboard
sign welcomes guests
into Roushanna’s natural
world; Rochelle Coetzee
prepares sheets of floral
laminated pasta.

The cool Cape workshops, where she merges food and conversation that takes place in the kitchen
ecology as a powerful tool for learning. when the food’s being cooked, the
Peninsula air, fragrant It all started 14 years ago when she connection and the conversation that
with the aroma of wet packed up her life in Muizenberg and happens around the table.”
made the move to Cape Point, where she This is also an important part of her
earth and fynbos, had the opportunity to slow down and hosted experiences at Veld and Sea, based at
invites us to inhale become curious about her surroundings. Good Hope Gardens Nursery, which she
“Love drew me here. I fell in love with my officially launched full-time in 2016. “It’s
deeply as we admire husband and then I fell in love with the really a hobby that spiralled out of control,”
the jigsaw-style glass land. Tom has lived here all his life and my she laughs. “The more I learned about the
mother-in-law, Gael, is an amazing fynbos edible landscape, the more I wanted to
house nearby. horticulturist, so she’s been my plant share my knowledge and make people
mentor. I’ve learned a lot from her.” understand how special it was to be able to
It is made entirely out of windows, some Most of Roushanna’s ecological relate to the source of their food. When we
found and others gifted by friends. Inside, education has been by osmosis, an adopt a multisensory, immersive learning
chandeliers of dried indigenous flowers and insatiable curiosity and extensive reading, experience, we are more likely to retain
mollusc shells sway gently from the ceiling enquiring, smelling, tasting. “When I was new information, more likely to ask
and a disco ball spins slowly over a large starting out, there wasn’t a course you questions, and we begin to see how many
table laden with fresh flowers, jewel-toned could take, so there was a lot of self-study, underutilised and overlooked sources of
glassware and thick ribbons of kelp. especially about seaweeds – there wasn’t as food and medicine there are in South
We haven’t been here for long, yet much information about them back then. Africa,” she says of her motivation behind
already we feel immersed in the softness, “I have always been a huge bookworm. hosting these experiences.
the slowness, of this place. Growing up, I spent hours in the library, “As a foodie, and someone who is
“My husband, Tom, built the glass I read everything. Food was also a big part food-curious, my big question was always
house; he built that table, he built the of my childhood. Both my grandmothers what is Cape Town’s food? It’s impossible
kitchen cabinets. He’s a landscaper but were caterers and we celebrated almost to answer. I was born and raised in Cape
his passion is carpentry. The glass house all the major religious holidays – Pesach, Town, I am multicultural and have a mixed
is a love project of ours,” says Roushanna Rosh Hashanah, Eid, Christmas. I still ancestry, so another question I like to ask
Gray of the space where she hosts her love the communal gathering, the myself is who am I in this place?”

58 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


GLUTEN-FREE ALMOND
AND NUM-NUM
BERRY CAKE WITH
AMASI CREAM AND
ROSE PELARGONIUM
PEACHES
R39 PER SERVING

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 59


Clockwise from above: Guest Ophelia enjoys a
personally crafted botanical beverage; the Land
and Sea salad; a butter board dotted with foraged
flowers; ceramics by Hoets-Turner Ceramics.

“Veld and Sea is


really a hobby
that spiralled
out of control”

60 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


Clockwise from left: Roushanna
prepares her signature cocktail,
Smoke & Roses; floral seaweed
milk buns; guests Kate and Mark
lounge inside the glass house; the
garden’s freshly picked bounty.

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 61


FOOD I N N OVATOR

Callie Janson with some


of the day’s foraged finds
from the sea.

62 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


FOOD I N N OVATOR

When those questions intersected for an event but we aren’t open every day, hundreds of metres of irrigation pipes and
Roushanna, she set out to discover the taste which is important to know before you fittings, water tanks, and their succulent
of the landscape. “The land that Veld and drive all the way here! Laura Kropman, greenhouse. But they survived the inferno
Sea is on holds a diverse and fragmented who was our head chef last year, is now thanks to a firebreak, a necessary system in
history. The first inhabitants were Cape our events co-ordinator. Rochelle, who is fire-prone areas. They have also protected
Point Khoi. It was colonised by Simon van another brilliant mind, has taken her place their perimeters by planting fire-wise
der Stel in the 1600s and later populated by in the kitchen. Hazel works in the scullery plants, mainly succulents.
settlers, farmers, sailors, and the displaced but has shown a lot of interest in food, Out of the fire arose the opportunity for
who worked for and were enslaved by them. so she’s moved up to kitchen assistant. fellowship and rebirth. Shared heartbreak
Evidence suggests seasonal herdsmen lived I love any opportunity for growth and and hope brought the surrounding
here. During the Boer War, a nearby area am currently doing a trade exchange community together in a binding effort to
served as a meeting point for the Cape with Brett Nussey from Stir Crazy help raise funds for those affected by the
Point Highlanders. In the early 1900s, Cooking School. In return for taking his fire. This support took the form of an event
Cape Point became a protected nature students out foraging, my kitchen team at Veld and Sea, which included a day filled
reserve and during World War II, the is going to do some of his courses.” with live performances, food, books and
Klaasjagersberg area became a military Summer experiences run from plants, and an outpouring of donations.
training camp. Post-war, the land was November through to March on specified Ecologically, the land began to
zoned into rural agricultural plots. dates to work in tandem with the moon’s regenerate and new life began to emerge.
Fynbos seeds floated through the wind,
landing on the burnt ground to await
“It’s so important for my kids to know where the perfect conditions for germination.
their food comes from. It’s an act of resistance Roushanna discovered the edible bulbs of
the watsonia flower, a bright orange bloom
to raise strong, informed children” that began to populate cracks of the charred
landscape. These mild, nutty bulbs are
rendered edible after fire and protrude
“I hope to honour the ancient history of phases and the tides, allowing for from the ground, almost as if to offer
this space by teaching foraging, and sharing maximum access to the inter-tidal rock themselves up for the eating. “The Khoi
indigenous plant and coastal knowledge. pools. In winter, Veld and Sea offers who inhabited this area ate these regularly,
By understanding indigenous wisdom and a five-hour land forage, educating visitors back in a time where there were no
aligning with the flavour seasons and cycles about edible weeds, mushrooms, wild fruit recorded recipes or handbooks, but they
of nature, we show respect for our human and flowers. At the end of each workshop, held sacred knowledge about edible
kin, promote sustainability, and strengthen guests sit down to a meal combining their indigenous plants.”
our bond with the environment.” foraged finds and produce picked from Food, flavour and medicine are all
What features on Roushanna’s plates is the garden. To accompany the meal, they around us, and Roushanna has made it her
largely informed by what the land provides. are invited to create their own botanical life’s assignment to educate all who care
Right now, num-num bushes burst with concoctions from an assortment of herbal to learn. “Another passion project we’re
ripe red berries that will be baked into tinctures, cordials, infused gins, bushels working on is trying to get this programme
a cake. Seaweed milk buns are delicately of impepho, confetti bush and floral into school curriculums. It’s in the pipeline
embossed with preserved dried pansies, ice cubes. and it’s something that a colleague and
and chimichurri is blended with freshly Inhabiting natural spaces can be as I would like to implement soon, because
harvested blanched sea lettuce. Marine confrontational as it is enchanting. that’s really where it needs to start, with the
plants are a recurring theme on the menu In December 2023, wildfires ravaged next generation. It’s meant everything to be
and Roushanna praises them not only for Simon’s Town, causing thousands able to raise my kids here. It’s so important
their intensely oceanic umami flavour, of hectares of devastation. for them to know where their food comes
but also for their vitamins, minerals and “Living here is very elemental and we from, to have a strong connection with the
micro-nutrients. experience floods and fires often enough. land. It’s an act of resistance to raise strong,
In the kitchen, the team is preparing It’s the beauty of living so close to nature. informed children.”
lunch. Hazel Mawire rolls out sheets But this fire was different, it came in hard She believes that the more we understand
of floral pasta, Callie Janson prepares mussels and fast, approaching us in the evening about the environment, the better inclined
to smoke over the fire and Rochelle Coetzee when the helicopters were no longer we are to protect it, and the more adaptable
passes around samples of ice cream made flying, so help was not immediately we become as we use our learnings to
using milk provided by the goats that are available. When you see the flames, there’s handle situations we face in our daily lives.
reared on the farm, which is also home to so much to consider: which way the wind “Whether we’re deepening our relationship
chickens that supply eggs and pigs that is blowing, what do you save when your with the ocean or discovering edible plant
supply meat. life is about to burn?” life on land, when we exist with nature as
“We’re a team of 14 and we work like The flames licked the periphery of Veld our classroom, anything is possible.” W
freelancers; everyone comes in when there’s and Sea’s structures, burning through veldandsea.com; goodhopegardensnursery.co.za

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 63


Clockwise from top left:
Num-num berry cake gets
a final dusting of icing sugar;
a seat at the table in the
quaint, workshop-ready glass
house; Hazel Mawire readies
pasta dough for rolling.

WILD SAGE-AND-
MUSHROOM
ARANCINI WITH WILD
GARLIC AÏOLI
R30 PER SERVING

64 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


FOOD I N N OVATOR

“My big question was always what is Cape Town’s


food? It’s impossible to answer” – Roushanna Gray

FLORAL-LAMINATED ROASTED HERBY GLUTEN-FREE ALMOND


PASTA TOMATOES WITH AND NUM-NUM BERRY
“Crafting this recipe with our guests is CONFETTI BUSH RICOTTA CAKE WITH ROSE
always a joy, as it brings a fun and creative “Coleonema album, also known as confetti PELARGONIUM PEACHES
atmosphere to making fresh pasta. In the bush, belongs to the buchu family. This highly AND AMASI CREAM
absence of edible flowers, substitute with aromatic fynbos herb is super versatile, “Tart num num berries are the fruit of a spiky
microgreens, coriander, or any other soft enhancing both sweet and savoury dishes. hedge called Carissa macrocarpa, frequently
herbs of your choice. The freshly made We use it for oat cakes, muffins, roast veg, used as a security hedge due to its robust
pasta can be cooked immediately or hung seafood, custard and even ice cream.” thorns. The berries are delicious eaten fresh but
to dry, providing the convenience of storing their high pectin makes them an excellent
it in a sealed container for later use.” Serves 4 choice for flavourful jams and preserves.”
EASY
Serves 4 GREAT VALUE Serves 8
EASY Preparation: 15 minutes EASY
GREAT VALUE Cooking: 20 minutes GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 1 hour, plus 30 minutes’ Preparation: 30 minutes, plus overnight
resting time full-cream milk 2 litres draining time
Cooking: 5 minutes freshly picked confetti bush (Coleonema Cooking: 50 minutes
album/pulchellum) a small bunch (or use
white bread flour 400 g any sweet herb such as dill, basil or thyme) olive oil 2 cups
free-range eggs 4 apple cider vinegar 5 T sugar 150 g
edible flower petals fresh tomatoes of your choice 500 g lemon 1, zested
olive oil, for drizzling garlic 4 large cloves fresh lemon juice ¼ cup
fresh thyme 5 sprigs large free-range eggs 4, separated
1 Place the flour in a bowl and create a sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, almond flour 240 g
well. Crack in the eggs and incorporate to taste tapioca starch 30 g
using a fork until a rough dough forms. local olive oil, for drizzling gluten-free baking powder 1 t
Knead the dough until smooth, which sourdough, for serving salt ½ t
may take a few minutes. Wrap in ripe num-num berries (Carissa
clingwrap and rest at room temperature 1 Heat the milk in a saucepan until it reaches macrocarpa) a handful (or use strawberries
for approximately 30 minutes. 2 Using just below boiling point, then add the or blueberries)
a pasta machine, roll out pieces of the confetti bush and infuse for a few minutes.
dough from setting 0 to 5, creating thin 2 Remove the confetti bush and gradually For the rose pelargonium peaches:
sheets. Lightly brush one half of a sheet add the vinegar. Stir slowly until the mixture sugar 200 g
with water and affix some flower petals is fully separated. Using cheesecloth or a water 1 cup
to it. Laminate the sheet by folding it with clean tea towel, strain the mixture to retain rose pelargonium leaves (Pelargonium
the other half and running it through the only the curds. The whey can be used for graveolens) a sprig (or use pesticide-free
pasta roller again on setting 5. Repeat cooking pasta, making sauces, or baking rose petals or a few drops of rose essence)
until all the sheets are laminated with bread. 3 Place the tomatoes in an ovenproof peaches or nectarines 4, sliced into
flowers. 3 Bring a saucepan of water to a dish with the garlic and thyme, then drizzle wedges (use canned peaches out of season)
boil and add a generous pinch of salt. Cut with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Grill at
the pasta into pappardelle and cook in high heat, around 200°C, for 15 minutes until For the amasi cream:
the water for 3–4 minutes, ensuring the the garlic softens and the tomatoes blister amasi 2 cups
pasta remains al dente. Drizzle with olive and char. 4 Serve the ricotta and tomatoes whipping cream 1 cup
oil to prevent sticking or incorporate into on freshly baked sourdough with a drizzle icing sugar 2 T
your favourite pasta sauce or pesto. of olive oil and sea salt, alongside pasta and
FAT-CONSCIOUS pesto, or as a mouth-watering pizza topping. 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C and line a
WINE: Woolworths Light Red HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE 23 cm cake tin with baking paper. In a
WINE: Neil Ellis West Coast mixing bowl, combine the olive oil,
Sauvignon Blanc 100 g sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice and

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 65


From left: Rochelle cleans
freshly foraged mussels;
Callie makes a quick fire.

“Love drew me here. I fell in love with my husband and


then I fell in love with the land” – Roushanna Gray

egg yolks. Add the almond flour, baking sugar using an electric mixer until stiff GREAT VALUE
powder, salt and tapioca starch, then mix peaks form. Place the strained amasi into Preparation: 30 minutes,
well. 2 In a separate bowl, beat the egg a bowl and gently fold in the whipped plus chilling time
whites until soft peaks form. Gradually cream, until just mixed. 5 Serve the cake Cooking: 30 minutes
add the remaining sugar, incorporating with the peaches and amasi cream.
it slowly until the egg whites are stiff. WHEAT-AND GLUTEN-FREE local olive oil 2 T
Gently fold the egg whites and num-num WINE: Weltevrede Strawberry Rosé onion 1, chopped
berries into the cake mixture. Bake for garlic 1 clove, crushed and chopped
approximately 40 minutes, or until WILD SAGE-AND- wild sage (Salvia chamelaeagnea)
a skewer inserted comes out clean. MUSHROOM ARANCINI 8 leaves, finely chopped (or use
3 To make the peaches, bring the sugar WITH WILD GARLIC AÏOLI ordinary sage)
and water to a boil in a saucepan. Add “When incorporating wild sage into food, risotto rice 195 g
the rose pelargonium leaves and infuse exercise caution as its flavour can be potent. home-made vegetable stock 3 cups
until the syrup cools. Add the peaches or Opt for finely chopped leaves in small brown mushrooms 500 g, finely chopped
nectarines and cook in the syrup for about quantities to subtly enhance the dish. sea salt and freshly ground black
10 minutes. 4 To make the amasi cream, Alternatively, use a sprig to infuse the fynbos pepper, to taste
place the amasi in a piece of cheesecloth aromatics into soups and stews. Remove it mozzarella 1 cup grated
or clean tea towel, and hang over a bowl from the pot after 8 minutes.” flour 120 g
to strain the whey from the solids. Ideally free-range eggs 4, lightly beaten
hang overnight in the fridge for the best Serves 12 panko breadcrumbs 500 g
consistency. Whip the cream and icing EASY vegetable oil, for frying

66 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

WINNER DINNER
If you haven’t had chicken this week are you even alive? This midweek supper staple is
unmatched because of its ease, versatility and value. Woolworths’ new harissa chicken
casserole needs a spot on your winter supper rotation. Free-range chicken drumsticks are
cooked in a spicy harissa sauce, ready for you to add the finishing touches when you get
home. Chicken really does make a winning dinner! woolworths.co.za
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL

SERVING SUGGESTION Cook Woolworths Easy Meals harissa chicken casserole


according to package instructions. Serve with 200 g garlic-and-herb couscous,
shaved red onions and shaved cucumbers. Garnish with fresh mint and coriander.
FYNBOS-SMOKED
Above: The botanical mocktail station. MUSSELS
R33 PER SERVING

edible flowers, for serving golden brown. Serve with the aïoli, For the chimichurri, blend:
lemon wedges, for serving edible flowers and lemon wedges. parsley 20 g
5 To make the aïoli, place the eggs, lemon coriander 20 g
For the wild garlic aïoli: juice, mustard and wild garlic into a food origanum 20 g
free-range eggs 2 processor and blend until combined. chilli 1
lemon juice 1 T With the motor running, slowly pour in spring onions 3
Dijon mustard 1 t the oil and process until thick. local olive oil ½ cup
wild garlic (Tulbaghia violacea) MEAT-FREE garlic 3 cloves
1 piece including the bulb, chopped WINE: Colmant Brut Reserve fresh sea lettuce (Ulva ridgida)
vegetable oil 1½ cups Cap Classique a handful (or use baby spinach)
lemon 1, juiced
1 Sauté the onion and garlic in the olive FYNBOS-SMOKED sea salt and freshly ground black
oil until soft and translucent. Add the wild MUSSELS WITH SEA pepper, to taste
sage and mushrooms, and fry until the LETTUCE CHIMICHURRI
mushrooms are cooked. Remove from “Originating from a camping trip up the 1 Prepare hot coals and spread the
the pan. 2 Stir in the rice, while adding a West Coast, this recipe has become a dried fynbos in a large cast-iron skillet
third of the stock. Simmer over a low to cherished classic in the Veld and Sea kitchen. or paella pan with a lid that fits snugly.
medium heat, stirring frequently. Once The smokiness of dried fynbos herbs Arrange the mussels on top. Position the
the liquid is absorbed, repeat the process imparts a distinct South African flavour to skillet over the hot coals and add a few
until all the stock has been used and the mussels.” glowing coals between the mussels to
the rice is cooked and creamy. Season initiate the smoking process. Cover with
to taste. Before the risotto cools, add the Serves 4 the lid and smoke for about 10 minutes,
mozzarella and stir until fully melted. EASY or until all the mussels have opened.
Allow the mixture to cool for a few hours GREAT VALUE 2 Serve the mussels with the chimichurri
or overnight in the fridge. 3 Shape the Preparation: 30 minutes as a dip or coat the mussels in it as they
cooled rice mixture into bite-sized balls. Cooking: 10 minutes come off the fire. Serve with ciabatta, or
Coat each ball with flour, then dip into the add to a paella.
egg, and finally roll in the panko crumbs. dried edible fynbos 200 g FAT-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE
4 Deep-fry the arancini in the oil until fresh mussels 30, cleaned WINE: Graham Beck Brut Cap Classique

68 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

SIMPLE PLEASURES
Created around the year
1 000 by Benedictine
monks in Italy’s Po Valley,
Grana Padano is a hard,
granular cheese matured
for up to 25 months. It can
withstand the elements
without deteriorating and
so, too, can its recipe,
which hasn’t changed
over the centuries. Every
wheel of Grana Padano
is examined and graded
by Consorzio Grana
Padano technicians
before receiving the
signature firebrand that
confirms it as authentic
Grana Padano PDO
(Protected Designation
of Origin). It’s one of
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT LEILAANN MOKOTEDI

Italy’s most prized


gastronomic
products and
deserves
pride of
place in
any dish.

SERVING SUGGESTION
Arrange a few shavings of Grana Padano on a slice of your favourite toasted
bread and drizzle with olive oil to let the mild, nutty flavour of the cheese shine.
B I STR O FOOD

PORK RILLETTES WITH CANDIED


PRUNES AND CHICKEN LIVER PÂTÉ
R63 PER SERVING

70 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


B I STR O FOOD

POMMES ALIGOT
R57 PER SERVING

D U OUR

You may not be headed to Paris for the Olympics, but turn your next dinner
party (or family meal) into a French trip with Abigail Donnelly’s bistro classics
– from rillettes and roast chicken to boeuf bourguignon with a cheese mash
to rival Joël Robuchon’s. Bon voyage!
PHOTOGRAPHS MYBURGH DU PLESSIS
RECIPES AND PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY
FOOD ASSISTANT CHERI KUSTNER

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 71


“This year’s Summer
Olympics in Paris
inspired me to create
these bistro-style recipes
to cook at home, perfect
cold-weather comfort.
The rillettes recipe is
dedicated to fabulous chef
and friend, Giles Edwards,
who opened the much-
missed La Tête restaurant
in Cape Town. And the
(easy!) chocolate tart is
one of the best I’ve ever
eaten.” – Abigail Donnelly

PORK RILLETTES WITH For the chicken liver pâté: the other side. Remove from the pan.
CANDIED PRUNES AND butter 4 T 4 Add the thyme, shallot and garlic and
CHICKEN LIVER PÂTÉ free-range chicken livers 250 g cook for 2 minutes until golden brown.
“This can be served as a snack but I’ve also thyme 4 sprigs Add the livers, spices and sherry. Cook
been known to eat rillettes as a meal – shallot 1, chopped for 5 minutes, then add the cream. Cool.
spread thickly on slices of sourdough garlic 3 cloves, chopped Blend until smooth, place in a bowl
with a smear of mustard.” freshly grated nutmeg a pinch and chill for 2 hours. Serve with the
ground mace a pinch sourdough, oranges and prunes.
Serves 6 sherry ¼ cup WINE: Neil Ellis Groenekloof Syrah
EASY cream ½ cup
GREAT VALUE salt, to taste COVER RECIPE
Preparation: 40 minutes, plus 4 hours’ POMMES ALIGOT
chilling time sourdough, for serving “Grated mozzarella and Gruyère take
Cooking: 3 hours oranges, for serving creamy mashed potatoes to a new level
of deliciousness – a perfect side for the
For the rillettes: 1 To make the rillettes, place the pork and boeuf bourguignon on page 77.”
pork belly 600 g spices in a large saucepan and cover with
pork shoulder 600 g water. Cover and simmer for 2 hours, or Serves 6
cinnamon sticks 2 until the meat falls apart. Drain and cool, EASY
star anise 2 then shred the meat. Place in a dish, press GREAT VALUE
freshly ground nutmeg 1 t down so the meat is packed tightly and Preparation: 20 minutes
Woolworths duck fat 1 cup spoon over the duck fat. Chill for 4 hours. Cooking: 25 minutes
gherkins, for serving 2 To make the candied prunes, place all
the ingredients in a pan and simmer for Woolworths Everyday potatoes
For the candied prunes: 15 minutes, or until the prunes are soft. 4, peeled and diced
fresh prunes or small plums 12 3 To make the chicken liver pâté, melt the garlic 2 cloves
vino cotto ½ cup butter in a pan until foaming, then add butter 6 T
verjuice 1 cup the livers. Cook on one side until golden cream 1 cup
brown, about 3 minutes, then cook on mozzarella 340 g, grated

72 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


B I STR O FOOD

BOEUF
BOURGUIGNON
R73 PER SERVING

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 73


B I STR O FOOD

ROAST CHICKEN WITH


CAPER PASTE AND
PALOISE SAUCE
R50 PER SERVING

74 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


B I STR O FOOD

POTAGE LA MER
WITH SMOKY ROAST
PEPPER AÏOLI

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 75


CANARD AU VIN PIE
R62 PER SERVING

SMOKED MACKEREL WITH PARSLEY


VELOUTÉ AND GRILLED ASPARAGUS
R58 PER SERVING

CANDIED
PRUNES

76 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


B I STR O FOOD

Gruyère 340 g, grated Cover tightly with foil and roast for POTAGE LA MER
salt 1 t 2 hours, or until the meat is tender. WITH SMOKY ROAST
black pepper, to taste Season and serve with creamy mash. PEPPER AÏOLI
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE “This seafood stew is a great treat for a
1 Place the potatoes in a saucepan of cold WINE: Thunderchild Red Blend special occasion. To make it more budget-
water, bring them to a boil and cook until friendly, you could use only the mussels and
soft. Drain and pass through a potato ricer. COVER RECIPE serve with baguette to mop up the juices.”
2 Place all the ingredients into a large ROAST CHICKEN WITH
saucepan and cook over a low heat until all CAPER PASTE AND Serves 6
the cheeses have melted and a creamy mash PALOISE SAUCE EASY
is formed. Season with salt and black pepper. “I love serving paloise sauce with roast Preparation: 20 minutes
Serve piping hot. chicken – it’s similar to bearnaise, but with Cooking: 25 minutes
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE mint instead of tarragon. If you’d rather cook
WINE: Springfield Albariño a whole bird, go ahead – the caper paste butter 3 T
works just as well under the skin.” shallots 2, finely diced
BOEUF BOURGUIGNON celery 1 stick, finely diced
“This is my adaptation inspired by the movie Serves 4 garlic 3 cloves, smashed
Julie & Julia, which showed how blogger EASY tomatoes 2, finely diced
Julie Powell spent hours perfecting Julia Child’s GREAT VALUE saffron 1 t
recipe. Rather than red wine, I chose a dry rosé Preparation: 20 minutes fish stock 3 cups
to make the stew lighter. It’s delicious with the Cooking: 30 minutes white wine 1 cup
pommes aligot above.” prawns 12, cleaned and peeled
capers 4 T, drained crayfish tails 3, halved
Serves 6 lemon 1, zested clams 300 g
EASY garlic 2 cloves mussels 500 g
GREAT VALUE butter 3 T calamari tubes 12
Preparation: 25 minutes Italian parsley 3 T salt 1 t
Cooking: 3½ hours salt ½ t
free-range skin-on chicken breasts 4 For the roast red pepper aïoli:
bone-in beef cubes 1 kg free-range egg yolks 2, at room
flour 140 g For the paloise sauce: temperature
beef marrow bones 6 shallots 3, finely diced garlic 2 cloves, crushed
beef stock 4 cups butter 2 T sunflower oil 1½ cups
butter 4 t white wine vinegar 2 T lemon juice 3 T
olive oil 4 T free-range egg yolks 2 Woolworths Lazy Kettle hickory
baby onions or shallots 12 lemon juice 1 T liquid smoke 2 t
carrots 4, peeled and halved salt, to taste Woolworths roasted red peppers
garlic 12 cloves butter 200 g, melted 100 g, puréed
bay leaves 6 mint 15 leaves, finely sliced salt ½ t
thyme 6 sprigs
rosé wine 1 cup 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Using a mortar 1 Heat the butter in a large pan. Add
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, and pestle, pound together the capers, the shallots and celery and cook over
to taste lemon zest, garlic, butter, parsley and salt. a low heat until soft. Add the garlic and
mashed potatoes or aligot, for serving 2 Stuff the herby butter under the chicken tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, stirring
skin and season the skin with salt. Roast for occasionally. 2 Add the saffron, stock,
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Toss the beef in 20 minutes, or until cooked through. 3 To wine, prawns and crayfish. Cover and
the flour and set aside. 2 Place the marrow make the sauce, gently fry the shallots in simmer for 5 minutes. Add the clams,
bones and stock into a deep baking dish. the butter until translucent. Add the vinegar mussels and calamari. Cover and simmer
Cover tightly with foil and roast for 1 hour. and cook until reduced. Set aside. Place the for 5 minutes, then season. Serve with
3 Melt the butter and oil in a large ovenproof egg yolks, lemon juice and salt in a bowl. dollops of aïoli. 3 To make the aïoli,
pan and brown the meat in batches. Remove Slowly pour in the butter while whisking place the egg yolks in a large bowl.
from the pan, then add the onions and until the sauce thickens and coats the back Add the garlic and pour in the oil in a
carrots and cook until golden brown. Add of a spoon. Mix in the cooked shallots and steady stream from a height, whisking
the garlic and herbs and cook for 1 minute. mint. Serve immediately over the chicken. continually until thick. Add the lemon
4 Add the meat, cooked marrow bones, stock CARB-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND juice and liquid smoke. Stir in the red
and wine. Reduce the oven’s temperature GLUTEN-FREE pepper purée and season with salt.
to 160°C. Make sure the meat is submerged WINE: Iona Ten Barrel Pinot Noir WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
– you might need to add some more stock. WINE: Paul Cluver Riesling

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 77


GOOEY-
CENTRED
CHOCOLATE
TART WITH
SALTED LEMON
SABAYON
R50 PER
SERVING

MILLE-FEUILLE WITH CAFÉ


CRÈME PATISSIERE
R41 PER SERVING

“This sabayon CANARD AU VIN PIE caramelise until golden brown. Sear on
“This duck pie is inspired by a classic coq au the other side and set aside. 2 Fry the
is the perfect vin. You could leave off the pastry and eat the
filling as a casserole with creamed potatoes.”
pork in the same pan until caramelised,
then set aside. 3 Fry the onion, garlic and
accompaniment for herbs in the butter until soft. Deglaze the
Serves 4 pan with the white wine and reduce to a
the chocolate tart, EASY syrupy consistency. 4 Return the duck legs
GREAT VALUE and pork to the pan and add the stock
but it also works Preparation: 30 minutes and carrots. Cover and simmer for 1 hour.
Cooking: 1 hour 30 minutes Preheat the oven to 200°C. 5 Place the
well with a dollop pastry on top of the pan, brush with the
of crème fraîche Woolworths free-range duck legs 4
Kassler pork chops 3, diced into
egg and bake for 20 minutes, or until the
pastry is puffed up and golden.
and the poached 1 cm cubes
butter 2 T
WINE: Jordan Cobbler’s Hill

prunes from the onion 1, diced SMOKED MACKEREL WITH


garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped PARSLEY VELOUTÉ AND
rillettes on page 72” thyme 3 sprigs GRILLED ASPARAGUS
bay leaves 2 “Feel free to use hake or kingklip as an
white wine ¼ cup alternative to the smoked mackerel.”
chicken stock 1 cup
carrots 2, diced Serves 4
Woolworths all-butter puff pastry EASY
1 sheet GREAT VALUE
free-range egg 1, beaten Preparation: 30 minutes
Cooking: 20 minutes
1 Place the duck legs into a large, cold
cast-iron pan, skin-side down. Bring to butter, for frying
a medium heat to render the fat and onion 1, sliced

78 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

BLANC CANVAS
Who says you can’t
drink white wine in
winter? Paired with the
right meal, Cape Point
Vineyards’ Sauvignon
Blanc will strike the right
notes all year round.
This fruit-forward,
straw-coloured wine
with aromas of ripe
nectarine, granadilla,
gooseberries and fig
also contains hints of oak
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIREELLEN VAN ROOYEN

spice that gives it extra


depth and complexity.
You can enjoy this
People’s Choice Wine
Awards 2023 finalist with
everything from pasta
and poultry to leafy
green vegetables
and white cheeses
such as chevin or Brie.
cpv.co.za

SERVING
SUGGESTION
Prepare
Woolworths’ frozen
vegetable pot
stickers according
to package
instructions. Serve
with Woolworths’
Asian-style salad
dressing for a quick
and delicious
dipping sauce.
B I STR O FOOD

garlic 2 cloves, sliced GOOEY-CENTRED MILLE-FEUILLE WITH


thyme 2 sprigs CHOCOLATE TART WITH CAFÉ CRÈME PATISSIERE
white wine ½ cup SALTED LEMON SABAYON “Espresso-infused pastry cream piped
chicken stock 1 cup “The sabayon is a perfect accompaniment between layers of airy puff pastry – light,
cream 1 cup for the chocolate tart, which also goes well simple and classic, and a lot easier than
Italian parsley 30 g with a dollop of crème fraîche and the you think.”
lemon juice, to taste poached prunes from the rillettes on
salt, to taste page 72.” Serves 4
asparagus 170 g, blanched EASY
Woolworths lightly smoked mackerel Serves 8 GREAT VALUE
fillets 2 x 240 g packets EASY Preparation: 20 minutes
chives 2 T, finely sliced, to garnish GREAT VALUE Cooking: 30 minutes
Preparation: 20 minutes
1 To make the velouté, gently fry the onion, Cooking: 35 minutes Woolworths all-butter puff pastry
garlic and thyme in the butter over a low 500 g
heat until translucent. Add the wine and unsalted butter 200 g flour, for dusting
cook until completely reduced. 2 Add the dark chocolate 200 g caster sugar, for sprinkling
stock and simmer until reduced to a syrupy free-range eggs 4 icing sugar, sifted, for dusting
consistency. Add the cream and simmer caster sugar 200 g
over a low heat for 10 minutes until the almond flour 50 g For the crème patissiere:
sauce is thickened. 3 While the velouté is flour 50 g full-cream milk 2 cups
simmering, bring a saucepan of water to fine salt 1 t espresso 1 shot
the boil and blanch the parsley. Submerge vanilla extract 1 t
it for 5 seconds, then immediately transfer For the salted lemon sabayon: free-range egg yolks 4
to a bowl of iced water. Squeeze the excess free-range egg yolks 4 caster sugar 100 g
water out of the parsley and chop roughly. caster sugar 50 g cornflour 3 T
4 Remove the thyme from the velouté and Muscadel or sherry ¼ cup fine salt ½ t
place the velouté and blanched parsley into fine salt ½ t lemon juice, to taste
a narrow jug. Blend using a stick blender lemon juice 1 t
until vibrant green. Season with plenty 1 Preheat the oven to 200°C. Place the
of lemon juice and salt to taste. 5 Grill 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C and line the pastry on a work surface lightly dusted
the asparagus until charred. 6 Pan-fry the base of a 23 cm springform cake tin with with flour. Cut the pastry into 12 even
mackerel skin-side down in the butter for baking paper. 2 Bring a saucepan of water rectangles. 2 Line a large baking tray with
2–3 minutes until the skin is golden brown, to the boil. Place the butter and chocolate baking paper and gently place the pastry
then turn over and cook for a further 30 in a glass bowl and place the bowl over on the tray. Sprinkle the pastry lightly with
seconds. Serve with the charred asparagus, the boiling water. Do not allow the bowl caster sugar and cover with another sheet
herby velouté and garnish with chives. to touch the water. Stir until melted and of baking paper. Place another baking
CARB-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND combined. 3 In a large bowl, beat together tray on top of the pastry so that it does
GLUTEN-FREE the eggs and caster sugar until pale not rise too high. Bake for 20–30 minutes,
WINE: Simonsig Gewürtztraminer and fluffy. Slowly whisk in the chocolate or until the pastry is golden brown. 3 To
mixture. 4 Sift together the flours and salt, make the crème patissiere, bring the milk
then fold into the chocolate mixture, 1 T at and espresso to a simmer in a saucepan.
a time. 5 Spoon into the cake tin and bake In a large bowl, whisk together the
“Espresso-infused for 35 minutes until mostly set but slightly remaining ingredients except the lemon
soft in the centre. 6 To make the sabayon, juice until pale and fluffy. Slowly stream
pastry cream piped bring a saucepan of water to the boil. the milk mixture into the egg mixture
Whisk together the eggs and caster sugar while whisking. 4 Return the mixture to
between layers of until pale and fluffy. Slowly stream in the the pan and cook over a low heat until
Muscadel or sherry while whisking. Place very thick, whisking continually. Add the
airy puff pastry the bowl over the pan of boiling water lemon juice, place a sheet of clingwrap
is light, simple and whisk continuously until the mixture
becomes thick and velvety. This should
directly onto the surface and allow to
cool. 5 To assemble, fill a piping bag with
and classic – and take 5–10 minutes. 7 Season the sabayon
with salt and lemon juice, adding more if
the crème patissiere and pipe onto the
puff pastry, sandwiching them together,
much easier necessary. Serve warm with the tart. three layers each. Dust with icing sugar
WINE: Ken Forrester Noble Late before serving.
than you think” Harvest WINE: Domaine Grier French Rosé

80 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

DUCK DIVE
Between busy schedules and loadshedding, making hearty winter meals can seem
impossible. Enter Woolworths’ Easy Meals! Developed with busy home cooks in mind,
they let you enjoy your favourite meals without the fuss. Why not add new duck curry to
your cart? Partially deboned whole free-range duck is cooked in a rich, fragrant curry until
tender. With the hard work done, all you have to do is follow the package instructions and
serve with fluffy rice, toasted flatbreads and a spicy sambal. woolworths.co.za

SERVING
SUGGESTION
Prepare
Woolworths
duck curry
according to
package
instructions. Toast
2 naan and serve
with 100 g
roasted baby
brinjals and a
side of 1/2 diced
cucumber, 1/2
diced red onion
and 1 diced
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL

tomato. Top with


a dollop of
yoghurt and
microherbs.
COFFEE

COFFEE FLAN CAKE


R34 PER SERVING

82 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


COFFEE

Dark
arts.
How do you like your coffee? If you‘re Herman Lensing it might be
in a boozy dessert, an old-school cake or as a deeply flavoured syrup
to pour over a panna cotta with the perfect wobble

COFFEE CAKE PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS


R30 PER SERVING RECIPES HERMAN LENSING
PRODUCTION ABIGAIL
DONNELLY
FOOD ASSISTANTS
VIKAYLA GOVENDER
AND CHERI KUSTNER

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 83


COFFEE

COFFEE FLAN CAKE free-range eggs 2 the cake tin. 2 To make the flan, beat all the
“This is an ode to the days when my father canola oil ½ cup ingredients together in a bowl until well
and I would drink coffee with condensed milk milk 200 ml incorporated. Strain the mixture through
around a campfire, dreaming of magical hot water 1 cup a sieve, then carefully pour over the cake
things to come. This cake, too, is magical: batter. Bake for 25–30 minutes or until
two different mixtures go into the tin and For the flan: a skewer comes out clean. 3 Allow to cool,
somehow swap places. Pure alchemy!” condensed milk 1 x 385 g can then chill for 20 minutes. Turn out onto
evaporated milk 1 x 380 g can a serving plate.
Serves 6 to 8 free-range eggs 4 WINE: Meerlust Rubicon
EASY cream cheese ½ cup
GREAT VALUE Woolworths Italian instant coffee 3 T COFFEE CAKE
Preparation: 20 minutes, plus “This is a classic flop-proof hot-milk sponge
20 minutes’ chilling time 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Spray a cake my mother use to bake when we were
Baking: 30 minutes 20 cm bundt cake tin with non-stick children. Give it a modern nostalgic feel with
cooking spray. Prepare the cake according butter icing piped creatively into frills and falls
Woolworths Easy to Bake chocolate to package directions using the eggs, oil, – there’s plenty of inspiration online.”
cake mix 1 x 650 g box milk and hot water. Spoon the batter into
Serves 6 to 8
A LITTLE EFFORT
GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 2 hours, plus 1 hour’s
“I love the power chilling time
coffee has to Baking: 30 minutes

both soothe free-range eggs 4


and energise. Its caster sugar 200 g
cake flour 280 g
distinctive aroma baking powder 1 T, plus extra for dusting
entices me to take butter 2 T, melted
a sip and imagine lukewarm milk 1 cup
vanilla extract 1 t
new bakes and
desserts that For the icing:
butter 500 g, softened
celebrate its deeply icing sugar 520 g, sifted
satisfying flavour” Woolworths espresso instant coffee 3 T

– Herman Lensing 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Dust 2 x 18 cm


springform cake tins with baking powder
and spray with non-stick cooking spray.
Place the eggs and sugar in the bowl of a
stand mixer and beat at full speed for 6–8
minutes, or until thick and foamy. 2 Sift
the flour and baking powder over the egg
mixture. Pour the butter, milk and vanilla
into the bowl. Using a large metal spoon,
gently fold the flour into the egg in a figure
of eight motion. Divide the batter between
the tins and bake for 25–30 minutes or
until a skewer comes out clean. Allow to
cool in the tins, then loosen with a palette
knife and remove from the tins. 3 To make
the icing, beat the butter in the bowl of a
stand mixer using the paddle attachment
until light and creamy. Add the icing sugar
and coffee. Mix until smooth. Divide the
icing into 3 batches. Fit two disposable
piping bags with two different nozzles

84 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


COFFEE SPEKKOEK
R49 PER SERVING

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 85


COFFEE

icing sugar 260 g, sifted


RICOTTA PANNA COTTA cake flour 175 g, sifted
WITH COFFEE SYRUP cocoa powder 3 T
R23 PER SERVING Woolworths espresso instant coffee 3 T
ground cinnamon 1 T
ground nutmeg 1 t
ground cloves 1 t
butter 90 g, melted

1 Preheat the oven to 170°C. Line a 30 cm


springform cake tin with baking paper and
spray well with non-stick cooking spray.
2 Cream the butter using an electric mixer
until light and creamy, about 5 minutes. Set
aside. Beat the egg yolks and icing sugar
together using an electric mixer until thick
and creamy, about 10 minutes. Set aside.
3 Beat the egg whites until soft peaks
form. Using a large metal spoon, fold the
beaten butter, egg whites and flour into the
egg yolk mixture. 4 Divide the mixture in
half and fold the cocoa, coffee and spices
into one half. Spoon ½ cup of the plain
batter into the tin and spread evenly over
the bottom. Bake for 5 minutes, or until it
begins to brown on the edges and the cake
is cooked. 5 Remove from the oven and
brush some of the melted butter over the
cake using a basting brush. Spoon ½ cup
of the coffee-and-spice batter on top of
the cooked plain layer. Spread evenly and
bake for 5 minutes or until cooked through.
Brush with butter. Repeat the process until
the cake tin is filled. Remove the cake from
the oven and allow to cool. Serve thinly
sliced with lashings of butter.
WINE: Creation Syrah Grenache

RICOTTA PANNA COTTA


WITH COFFEE SYRUP
“This recipe will always hold a special place in
my heart. I learnt it from my student mentor
Richard Carstens and, more than 18 years
and fill each bag with icing. Set aside the COFFEE SPEKKOEK later, it’s still my number one panna cotta
remaining icing. 4 Using a serrated knife, “Spekkoek is an Indonesian layer cake that I adapt with different flavours to suit
cut the cooled cakes into two even layers developed during colonial times in the Dutch the occasion.”
and trim the tops so each layer is flat. Place East Indies. Each layer is baked before the
1 layer of cake on a plate and spread with a next is added, and the result is dense and Serves 6 to 8
spoonful of the icing you set aside. Place a richly flavoured. A thing of beauty.” EASY
second cake layer on top and spread with GREAT VALUE
more icing. Repeat until all the cakes are Serves 8 to 10 Preparation: 20 minutes, plus
stacked. Cover the outside and top of cake A LITTLE EFFORT 2–3 hours’ chilling time
with the remaining icing. 5 Using the icing GREAT VALUE Cooking: 10 minutes
in the piping bags, pipe patterns on and Preparation: 1 hour, plus cooling time
around the cake. Chill the cake for 1 hour to Baking: 40 minutes Woolworths gelatine powder
set the icing before serving. 1 x 10 g sachet
WINE: Woolworths Spumante Doux butter 500 g, softened cold water 2 T
Sweet Sparkling free-range eggs 15, separated caster sugar 4 T

86 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


COFFEE

COFFEE ZABAGLIONE
“Smooth, light and deliciously boozy,
this dessert is a true Italian classic.
I enjoy serving it with a biscotti or two.”

Serves 4
EASY
GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 10 minutes,
plus cooling time
Cooking: 5 minutes

free-range egg yolks 4


Muscadel 4 T
coffee liqueur 4 T
caster sugar 3 T
biscotti, for serving

1 Fill a saucepan on which a glass bowl


fits securely with water. Ensure that the
bottom of the bowl does not touch the
water. Bring the water to the boil. Place
all the ingredients except the biscotti
in the bowl. 2 Place the bowl on the
pan of boiling water and reduce the
heat to just below boiling point. Using
an electric hand-mixer, beat until light
and fluffy. 3 Remove the bowl from the
heat and continue whisking until the
mixture is cold. 4 Serve in glasses
of your choice with biscotti
or any other biscuit.
WINE: Woolworths Stormhoek
Sparkling Moscato Rosé

COFFEE
ZABAGLIONE
R15 PER SERVING

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 87


COFFEE

CHOUX BUNS WITH


CHOUX BUNS WITH
CRAQUELIN AND
CRAQUELIN AND
COFFEE CREAM
COFFEE CREAM
“You haven’t lived until you’ve experienced
R17 PER SERVING
the sweet crunch, creamy filling and coffee
flavour of these buns.”

Serves 6 to 8
A LITTLE EFFORT
GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 30 minutes, plus
cooling time
Cooking: 30 minutes

For the craquelin:


butter 4 T, softened
light brown sugar 4 T
flour 4 T, plus extra for rolling

For the buns:


water 1 cup
butter 100 g
salt ½ t
flour 140 g
free-range eggs 4

For the filling:


brown sugar 100 g
cornflour 3 T
free-range egg yolks 4
Woolworths espresso instant coffee 3 T
milk 2 cups
butter 2 T
cream ½ cup

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Mix all the


ingredients for the craquelin until a soft,
cookie-like dough forms. Roll out to a
thickness of 2 mm between two layers of
baking paper. Place in the freezer while
making the buns. 2 To make the buns,
place the water and butter in a medium
vanilla extract 1 t from the heat, add the softened gelatine saucepan. Bring to the boil with the lid
Woolworths Ayrshire ricotta 2 cups and stir until melted. Add to the ricotta on. Add the salt and flour all at once and
cream 1½ cups mixture and mix quickly until well blended. stir with a wooden spoon until everything
Pour into a serving dish of your choice. comes together in a ball. Stir over a high
For the syrup: You can make one large panna cotta or heat for 3 minutes. 3 Remove the dough
coffee beans 90 g individual portions. Chill for 2–3 hours. from the pot and allow to cool for about 10
water 1 cup 3 To make the syrup, bring the coffee beans minutes. Add the eggs one by one, beating
sugar 200 g and water to a rolling boil in a saucepan well each time using a wooden spoon. At
and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the first it might appear as if the eggs are not
1 Sprinkle the gelatine over the water and heat and allow to infuse for 30 minutes. being incorporated, but keep going.
allow to stand for 5 minutes. Place the Strain and discard the coffee beans. Add 4 Line a baking tray with baking paper and
sugar, vanilla and ricotta in a blender and the sugar and reduce over a high heat for spray with non-stick cooking spray. Spoon
add 1 cup cream. Blend at full speed until 5–8 minutes, or until syrupy. Allow to cool. heaped teaspoonfuls of the mixture onto
a smooth, creamy mixture forms. 2 Heat Drizzle the syrup over the panna cotta. the prepared baking sheet or pipe the
the remaining cream to just below boiling WHEAT AND GLUTENFREE mixture for a more refined puff. Place them
point in a saucepan. Remove the cream WINE: Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc about 2 cm apart. 5 Use a round cookie

88 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

IT’S A BREWTIFUL DAY


Woolworths understands the importance of a good
cup of coffee. That’s why it offers a wide range of
products to suit everyone’s tastes. Choose from
locally roasted 100% Arabica ground coffee, beans
and capsules, expertly sourced and inspired by
global flavours. Each product promises its own
unique flavour and aroma, ranging from bold and
smoky to sweet and even citrusy, and now comes
in fully recyclable packaging. Whether you simply
love coffee or consider yourself an aficionado, you’ll
find something to kick-start your day or offer a much-
needed pick-me-up. woolworths.co.za
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT ELLAH MAEPA
COFFEE

A LITTLE EFFORT
CREME BRÛLEÉ GREAT VALUE
DOUGHNUTS Preparation: 30 minutes, plus 1 hour
R13 PER SERVING 20 minutes’ proving time
Cooking: 20 minutes

lukewarm milk ¾ cup


caster sugar 3 T
butter 5 T, melted
free-range eggs 2
instant yeast 10 g
flour 420 g
vegetable oil, for frying

For the filling:


milk 1 cup
free-range egg yolks 3
cornflour 3 T
vanilla extract 1 t
caster sugar 4 T
cocoa powder 3 T
light brown sugar, for brûléeing
Woolworths espresso instant coffee 3 T

1 Place the milk, sugar, butter, eggs, yeast


and flour in the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat
at high speed with the paddle attachment
until the mixture comes together in a ball.
2 Place the dough into a clean bowl. Cover
with plastic wrap and allow to prove until
doubled in volume, about 45–60 minutes.
3 Turn out the dough onto a floured work
surface and flatten to a thickness of 1 cm.
Use a 10 cm round cutter to cut out circles.
Place on a baking sheet sprinkled with
flour. Allow to prove again until doubled
in volume, about 20 minutes. 4 While the
dough is rising, make the filling. Place all the
ingredients in a bowl and beat with a whisk
until smooth. 5 Place in a saucepan over a
low heat. Stir until the mixture thickens like
a white sauce. Stir for another 5 minutes or
cutter with a diameter of 4 cm to cut circles and chill until cooled. 7 Beat the cream until until glossy. Spoon into a clean bowl and
out of the frozen craquelin dough. Place soft peaks form, then fold it into the cooled place a sheet of plastic wrap directly onto
a dough circle on top of each choux puff. custard. 8 Cut the tops off the choux buns. the custard. Allow to cool. 6 Heat the oil in
Bake for 25–30 minutes or until golden Pipe the filling onto the bottom halves and a saucepan and place 3–4 risen doughnuts
brown and cooked through. Reduce the place the tops onto the filling. Decorate into the oil. Fry for 3–5 minutes on each
oven’s temperature to 80°C and bake for with small dollops of filling before serving. side, or until golden brown. Drain on
20 minutes. Cool the puffs in the oven to WINE: Thelema The Abbey kitchen paper. Repeat with the remaining
ensure a crisp texture. 6 To make the filling, doughnuts. 7 Spoon the cooled filling into
mix the sugar, cornflour, egg yolks and CREME BRÛLEÉ a piping bag fitted with a 5 mm nozzle.
coffee in a mixing bowl. Add 1 cup milk DOUGHNUTS Press the nozzle into the side of the cooked
and whisk until well combined. Bring the “Coffee and doughnuts are an addictive doughnuts and fill. Sprinkle one side of
remaining milk and the butter to the boil in combo, so why not combine the two? doughnut with brown sugar and brûlée
a saucepan. Add to the coffee mixture and Add the crunch of brûleéd sugar and using a blowtorch to make a crispy caramel
mix well. Return to the saucepan and whisk you are guaranteed a winning recipe.” crust. Serve immediately.
over a high heat until a thick custard forms, WINE: Krone Borealis Brut
about 5–6 minutes. Remove from the heat Serves 6 to 8

90 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


We have a recipe for innovation.
OXO is available in South Africa, please visit www.edisonstone.com for more information.
CON DI MEN TS

S A U C E
C O D E

STONE FRUIT
KETCHUP

92 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


“Waste not” is Khanya Mzongwana’s mantra, so when
she’s left with extra produce (and lots of peels),
naturally she invents her own condiments.
Fiery, tangy, sweet – they’re the best way to add zing
to salads, stews, sarms – anything you like, really

PHOTOGRAPHS
TOBY MURPHY
RECIPES AND
PRODUCTION
KHANYA MZONGWANA
FOOD ASSISTANT
UNATHI TAFFA

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 93


EGUSI
SEED BUTTER

94 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


CON DI MEN TS

PINEAPPLE RIND
HOT SAUCE

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 95


CON DI MEN TS

STONE FRUIT KETCHUP until softened, about 20 minutes, stirring


“Make this, and you’ll be done with tomato “I’ve turned into occasionally. 2 Add the sugar and salt. Once
sauce for life! Serve it on hotdogs, burgers or the carrots are fall-apart tender, transfer
drizzle onto a stone fruit burrata salad.”
a sauce hoarder to a blender. Add the orange juice, zest
and my fridge door and tahini. 3 Blend at full power until very
Makes 500 g is packed with jars smooth. Store in glass jars in the fridge
EASY and use within a week.
GREAT VALUE and bottles. Here WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
Preparation: 15 minutes are some recipes
Cooking: 30 minutes BURNT CORN EMULSION
for cool condiments “This is the dressing your salad has been
oil ¼ cup you need right now, yearning for, the sauce that your fried chicken
onion 1, roughly chopped burger needs. It’s burnt corn in liquid form
garlic 1 clove, chopped
because nothing and we need to celebrate that.”
thyme 1 sprig beats the sense of
nectarines 100 g, halved and stoned achievement when Makes 300 g
plums 100 g, halved and stoned EASY
peaches 100 g, halved and stoned it’s all home-made.” GREAT VALUE
red wine vinegar ½ cup – Khanya Preparation: 10 minutes
brown sugar 67 g Cooking: 30 minutes
salt 1 t
Mzongwana
apricot jam 4 T sweetcorn 2 cobs
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the canola oil, for frying
1 Heat the oil in a saucepan and gently egusi seeds on a baking tray and roast butter 50 g
fry the onion and garlic until the onion is for 10 minutes, or until lightly browned. shallot 1, finely diced
soft and translucent. Add the thyme and 2 Place all the ingredients including the celery 1 finger-sized stick, finely chopped
fry until fragrant. 2 Add the stone fruit, seeds (set aside a few for sprinkling) into garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped
vinegar and sugar. Simmer for 20 minutes, a blender and blend at full power until sea salt and freshly ground black
or until slightly reduced, then season very smooth. 3 Spread on toasted bagels, pepper, to taste
with salt. 3 Stir in the jam and simmer for drizzle with honey and sprinkle over the cream ¾ cup
a further 5 minutes. Allow to cool, then remaining egusi seeds. vegetable stock 1 cup
blend until smooth.
DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN- CARROT-AND- 1 Char the corn over an open flame. Don’t
FREE, PLANT-BASED ORANGE TAHINI singe it, but get some good burnt bits.
“I have fallen back in love with carrots and Roasting it won’t have quite the same
EGUSI SEED BUTTER buy a bunch a week. When I have leftovers, effect, but if you don’t have access to a fire,
“Egusi are the seeds of a bitter melon grown I make this versatile recipe. Try it with crispy, roast it at 200°C for 12 minutes. Remove
and eaten predominantly in West Africa. straight-out-of-the-fryer falafel.” the kernels from the cobs. 2 Heat the oil
After watching Tapiwa Guzha bake a in a medium saucepan. Add the shallot
magnificent egusi cake on Instagram, Makes 200 g and celery and fry gently for 10 minutes.
I was inspired to make this butter. EASY Add the garlic and cook for 5 minutes,
It’s delicious smeared on bagels with honey.” GREAT VALUE then season. 3 Add the cream and bring
Preparation: 15 minutes to a simmer. Cook for a further 10 minutes,
Makes 200 g Cooking: 15 minutes stirring occasionally. Stir in the stock and
EASY simmer for a further 5 minutes, then
GREAT VALUE butter 100 g remove from the heat. Strain through
Preparation: 10 minutes canola oil ⁄ cup a fine-mesh sieve, then bottle and
Cooking: 10 minutes large carrots 1 kg, peeled and cut refrigerate. Use within 3 days.
into chunks WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
egusi seeds 140 g, plus extra for sprinkling garlic 4 cloves
canola oil 4 T sugar 2 T DUCK FAT AÏOLI
brown vinegar 1 T salt ½ t WITH THYME
brown sugar 1 T orange 1, zested and juiced “Duck fat is so luxurious in this aïoli that
water ¼ cup (add as required) Woolworths tahini 100 g comes together in a flash. I love it with
salt ½ t crispy potatoes or dolloped onto boiled eggs.”
bagels, toasted, for serving 1 Place the butter and oil into a saucepan
honey, for drizzling and heat until melted and bubbling. Makes 200 g
Add the carrots and garlic and cook EASY

96 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


CARROT-AND-
ORANGE TAHINI DUCK FAT AÏOLI
WITH THYME

RIPE BANANA
PEEL CHUTNEY

BURNT CORN
EMULSION

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 97


CON DI MEN TS

SWEET POTATO LEAF


CHIMICHURRI

98 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


CON DI MEN TS

SWEET POTATO PINEAPPLE RIND


LEAF CHIMICHURRI HOT SAUCE
“There’s a community garden across the “I love a fruity hot sauce and, when I have
road from my apartment block and right a lot of pineapple skins, I boil them up in
now they’re growing heroic amounts of sugar water as a base for a fiery-sweet
sweet potato. Nobody was using the leaves hot sauce that I love adding to pretty much
so I decided to make this chimichurri.” anything savoury. It's also a banging
marinade or basting for braaied chicken.”
Makes 200 g
EASY Makes 250 g
GREAT VALUE EASY
Preparation: 10 minutes GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 10 minutes
Cooking: 30 minutes

pineapples 3, peeled
water 3 cups
brown sugar 2 T
bird’s-eye chillies 200 g
garlic 4 cloves
medium onion 1, roughly chopped
large tomatoes 3, peeled and roughly
chopped
Spanish smoked paprika 1 t
sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste
canola oil 4 T

1 Place the pineapple peels, water and


sugar in a medium-sized saucepan. Bring
to a rolling boil and cook for 10 minutes.
Strain and discard the pineapple peels.
2 Place the remaining ingredients except
the oil in a blender with the pineapple
water. Blend until smooth. 3 Heat the oil
in a saucepan. Pour the mixture into the
pan and simmer for 25 minutes, stirring
sweet potato leaves 1 cup, washed often, until slightly reduced. 4 Check the
and finely chopped seasoning and adjust if necessary. Pour
Italian parsley ½ cup, finely chopped into sterilised jars and refrigerate for up
garlic 4 cloves, finely chopped to 2–3 weeks.
shallot 1, finely chopped Cook’s note: Freeze the pineapple to use
dried oregano 1 t in a smoothie later, or grill with chicken
bird’s-eye chilli 1, seeded and diced thighs and serve with the sauce.
red wine vinegar 3 T DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND
sea salt and freshly ground black GLUTEN-FREE
pepper, to taste
extra virgin olive oil ½ cup
Tenderstem broccoli, steamed,
for serving
labneh, for serving

Mix all the ingredients except the broccoli


and labneh until combined. Spoon onto
the broccoli and dollop with labneh.
CARB-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND
GLUTEN-FREE

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 99


CON DI MEN TS

GREAT VALUE RIPE BANANA brown sugar 150 g


Preparation: 10 minutes PEEL CHUTNEY ripe banana 1, chopped
Cooking: 20 minutes “I've always felt weird throwing banana peels orange juice 2 cups
in the bin. Apart from being an incredible
garlic 1 head fertiliser for veggies, they make a great 1 Submerge the banana peels in cold water
free-range egg yolks 2 chutney. I serve mine with plantain, rice for 1 hour, changing the water twice.
white wine vinegar 2 T and fried greens.” Drain the water. 2 Transfer the peels to
sea salt and freshly ground black a saucepan, add 3 cups fresh water and
pepper, to taste Makes 200 g bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes, then
Dijon mustard 1 t EASY drain and allow to cool. Once cooled,
Woolworths duck fat 200 g, melted GREAT VALUE roughly dice the peels into small pieces.
Preparation: 15 minutes, plus 1 hour’s 3 Heat the coconut oil in a large saucepan
1 Preheat the oven to 190°C. Cut the top soaking time over a medium heat. Add the onions,
off the garlic and place it on a baking tray. Cooking: 40 minutes chillies and salt. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring
Roast until softened, about 15–20 minutes. occasionally. Add the garlic and fry for 3
Squeeze the garlic out of the skin. Place in ripe banana peels 6 minutes. 4 Stir in the mustard seeds, curry
a blender with the remaining ingredients coconut oil 2 T powder, star anise, fennel, cinnamon, sugar,
except the duck fat and blend until onions 2, peeled and finely diced banana peels and chopped banana. Cook
smooth. 2 Keep the blender running at green chillies 2, thinly sliced for 10 minutes or until slightly caramelised.
a medium speed, then slowly drip in the salt 2 t 5 Add the orange juice and simmer for
duck fat. It should take about 4 minutes garlic 1 clove, finely chopped 30 minutes, or until thickened. 6 Transfer
to add all the duck fat. 3 Blend until mustard seeds 1 t into sterilised jars and store in the fridge
the mixture reaches the consistency of curry powder 2 T for up to 2 weeks.
mayonnaise, but no longer than 1 minute. star anise 1 HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE,
CARB-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE, fennel seeds 1 t WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE,
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE cinnamon 1 stick PLANT-BASED

Smoky Kassler Pork and


Roasted Veg Salad
This vibrant Smoky Kassler Pork and Roasted Veg Salad
blend the rich flavours of smoked pork steak with the
sweet earthiness of roasted butternut and gem squash.

PREP TIME 10 MINUTES COOKING TIME 20 MINUTES


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

THE SIZZLE We love the versatility of bacon. From epic


weekend brunches to dreamy salads,
bacon just makes everything taste amazing!
And because Woolies thinks of everything,
they’ve added bacon produced without
added nitrites to the range. It’s still the same
wood-smoked bacon you love without
compromising on flavour, texture or colour.
Woolworths bacon is available in various
cuts – diced, streaky and back – to use in
your favourite recipes. woolworths.co.za

SERVING
SUGGESTION
Arrange bacon on
a tray and bake
in the oven until
cooked to your
liking. Drain on
kitchen paper.
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIREELLEN VAN ROOYEN

Serve sandwiched
in toasted sesame
buns with
Woolworths’
Peppadew relish
and crispy fried
eggs with a
sprinkle of crispy
bacon bits. Or
make a delicious
BLT salad with
sliced cherry
tomatoes and
baby spinach,
rocket and
watercress salad,
crisp back bacon
rashers and
Woolworths’ fresh
basil pesto mayo
dressing.

Scan the QR code


above to learn more
about how Woolies’
pork is farmed.
N EW COOKB OOK

CURED AND BLOW-


TORCHED MACKEREL
WITH HIBISCUS-AND-
GINGER SAUCE

102 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


N EW COOKB OOK

AFRICA IS
the fin a l f r o n t i e r o f
FOOD
UK-based caterer and entrepreneur Maria Bradford is on a mission
to bring people together with the flavours and ingredients of her
homeland, Sierra Leone. Try these traditional Afro-fusion and street-food
recipes from her beautiful book, Sweet Salone

PHOTOGRAPHS DAVE BROWN AND YUKI SUGIURA TEXT AND RECIPES MARIA BRADFORD

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 103


N EW COOKB OOK

cultures may well be very different to village in the Bandajuma Bagbo


that in Europe, but we too have our chiefdom was an emotional experience.
rules and traditions that go way back. The tranquillity was lovely and I didn’t
The first human settlements in West realise how much I had missed
Africa date back to 4 000 BCE, and the commensality. ‘Commensality’, the
roots of traditional Sierra Leonean food act of eating together, is an important
certainly reach this far too; many of the human ritual that has benefits that go
indigenous vegetables and spices that beyond the biological need for food,
define our food – rice, yam, plantain, as is well established among food studies
cassava and the like – all existed there scholars. There’s something in the process
thousands of years ago. The traditional and the sense of community, the shared
dishes I cook (especially the plasas dishes, experience of cooking and eating
leafy green sauces) are all Sierra together, that is really special.
Leonean classics, and unapologetically My mission with Shwen Shwen is


time-consuming to prepare and cook. simple. We’re here to bring a whole new
Freetown has a unique history and world of flavours to your door, through
fascinating story when it comes to either traditional Sierra Leonean or
international trade. The fusion of culinary Afro-fusion dishes. We draw upon our
techniques and recipes has been in colourful Sierra Leonean culture to bring
existence since the dawn of global people closer together through food,
travel. Initially, there was migration offering an authentic experience.
within Africa between different tribes, I decided to write the book because
then Muslim traders brought Islam, it’s important for me, for Shwen Shwen,
then Europeans and Lebanese arrived and, I hope, for Sierra Leone. This story
and returnees from London and needs to be told.
the Caribbean, each bringing new I founded Shwen Shwen with a strong
experiences to this melting pot. sense of purpose, and that was to put our

My name is Mariama. I was named after “Africa is the final frontier of food, and
my grandmother, but for as long as I can whether we are using utensils or eating
remember everyone has called me Maria.
I speak three languages – Krio, Mende
with our hands, our dishes can be prepared
and English – and I live in Kent with and consumed in a fine-dining environment”
my family. I have many fond childhood
memories of growing up in Freetown, Early world travellers exchanged Sierra Leonean produce, cuisine and
the capital of Sierra Leone, all of which and combined food knowledge, unique culture on the map. I wanted to
have influenced my recipes. and inevitably recipes and our food show that Sierra Leonean cuisine can
I started my food business in 2017, options have become more complex be fine dining. Ultimately, I wanted to
creating delicious African food for dinner and interesting, taking influence from connect people through food; to amplify
parties, weddings and corporate events. contrasting climates, ingredients and elevate our culture where possible.
Back then, it was called Maria Bradford and cooking methods. I wanted to prove that creative
Kitchen, but my fellow Sierra Leoneans My own migration story from West pursuits can be worthwhile – by creating
would describe my dishes as ‘fancy’. They Africa to England includes experience in a platform on which others can build.
would say in Krio, ‘Dis na Shwen Shwen’, Italian kitchens and a culinary school that I started Shwen Shwen as a way to
which, in English, is an exclamation along taught French classics. Settling in Kent, play my part, using the skills that I have.
the lines of, ‘This is fancy food!’ the Garden of England, has afforded me I am hoping to stimulate a collective
So, I decided to rename it. [Sh•wen access to many fine ingredients, so this pride that we can all share and own.
Sh•wen] Adjective, derived from the Krio Afro-fusion story continues. In my book, If Shwen Shwen can inspire other Sierra
word for ‘fancy’. I set out some of my own Afro-fusion Leoneans, other Africans, other creatives,
I am really proud that Shwen Shwen is recipes, which I hope will prove that other women to start something, build
at the forefront of Sierra Leonean-inspired diversity can inspire creativity and make something, follow their dreams, then it
fine-dining experiences. Africa is the final for a rich tapestry. will have served its purpose.
frontier of food, and whether we are using While I was writing Sweet Salone, I hope Shwen Shwen can encourage
utensils or eating with our hands, our I travelled with photographer Dave others to become action-takers and
dishes can be prepared and consumed Brown to Sierra Leone for the location impact-makers while pursuing their
in a fine-dining environment. Dining photography, which was a load of fun. own dreams.”
etiquette in Africa’s Atlantic Coast Returning to my great grandmother’s shwenshwen.com; @shwenshwenbymaria

104 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


PEPE CHICKEN

The author with her grandmother in her home


in Sierra Leone.

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 105


N EW COOKB OOK

CURED AND BLOW- dish. Sprinkle over the curing mixture to free-range chicken thighs 10–12
TORCHED MACKEREL cover evenly and leave to cure for about 12
WITH HIBISCUS-AND- minutes. (Note: The mackerel can be cured 1 To make the pepe marinade, place all
GINGER SAUCE for up to 1 hour if you prefer a more “cured” the ingredients in the bowl of a food
“Mackerel is a rich fish and the tartness taste and texture.) 5 Rinse the mackerel processor and blend until smooth and
of the hibiscus cuts straight through, under cold water to remove the curing well combined. 2 Transfer to a saucepan
complementing the smoky, oily flesh mixture. Pat dry with kitchen paper and, and cook over a medium heat for 10–15
beautifully. Soak the hibiscus for the sauce using a kitchen blowtorch, scorch the skin minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent
the day before you plan to eat this dish.” on both sides until charred and the fish is sticking, until the marinade has reduced
cooked through, 2–3 minutes in total. Hold and thickened. Taste and adjust the
Serves 4 the blowtorch a few inches from the fish seasoning if necessary. Allow to cool.
EASY and gently move around, not scorching any 3 Place the chicken in a large glass or
GREAT VALUE one bit for too long. Alternatively, heat the ceramic bowl, pour over half the marinade
Preparation: 25 minutes, plus overnight grill to high and grill for 3–4 minutes (be (you can freeze the rest or keep it for up to
soaking time careful not to burn them). Serve the fillets 1 week covered in the fridge) and massage
Cooking: 1 hour with the warm hibiscus-and-ginger sauce, it well into the chicken. Cover and set aside
garnished with dill. to marinate in the fridge for 2–3 hours or
For the hibiscus-and-ginger sauce: FAT-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT-AND overnight. 4 Preheat the oven to 200°C.
dried hibiscus flowers 30 g GLUTEN-FREE Arrange the chicken pieces in a single layer
water 2¾ cups WINE: Villiera Carte Blanche White Blend in a baking dish. Roast for 35–40 minutes,
sugar 2½ T (or to taste) basting occasionally, until cooked through
fresh ginger 1–2 t grated (or to taste) PEPE CHICKEN (they are ready when the juices run clear
butter 2 t “African culture encompasses a love of when pierced in the thickest part of the
celebrations that combine food, fashion, thigh with a skewer).
For the cured mackerel: music and dance, and in my view, no party Cook’s note: In the warmer months, the
mackerel 4 fillets, pin bones removed is complete without pepe chicken. Street thighs can be cooked on the barbeque.
(ask your fish supplier to do this for you) vendors in Freetown grill this over hot Baste them regularly and turn frequently
fine sea salt 100 g charcoal throughout the night and it is until they are cooked through, as above.
caster sugar 100 g perfect pre- or post-club with chilli sauce.” DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
fennel seeds 1 T, toasted and ground WINE: Spier Chardonnay
in a pestle and mortar or spice grinder Serves 6 to 8
coriander seeds 1 T, toasted and ground EASY KANKANKAN
in a pestle and mortar or spice grinder GREAT VALUE CAULIFLOWER FRITTERS
West African pepper blend 1 T Preparation: 20 minutes, plus WITH YOGHURT-AND-
(see p 111) 2–3 hours’ marinating time MAYO SAUCE
fresh dill sprigs, for serving Cooking: 1 hour “Cauliflower fritters pair perfectly with
a cool dollop of yoghurt-and-mayo sauce
1 To make the hibiscus-and-ginger sauce, For the pepe marinade: as a starter.”
place the hibiscus flowers in a small pan, large onions 2 (about 450 g)
pour over the water and leave overnight to garlic 5 cloves (20 g) Serves 6 to 8
rehydrate. The next day, bring the soaked fresh ginger 25 g EASY
hibiscus flowers to a boil, reduce the heat lemon juice 2 T GREAT VALUE
and simmer for 40 minutes. 2 Transfer to curry powder 1 T Preparation: 15 minutes
a food processor or blender, blend until West African pepper blend 1 t (see p 111) Cooking: 20 minutes
smooth, then pass through a fine sieve into lemongrass 2 stalks
a clean pan. Add the sugar and cook over sweet paprika 1 t For the cauliflower fritters:
a high heat until the sauce has reduced ground coriander 1 t medium cauliflower 2 heads,
to a syrupy consistency, 10–15 minutes. salt 2 t (or to taste) cut into bite-sized florets
3 Add the ginger until you can really taste unsalted peanut butter 200 g sunflower oil, for deep-frying
it coming through, then beat in the butter, (use one without palm oil) chickpea flour 260 g
which should melt in the residual heat of tomato purée 30 g Kankankan spice mix 3 T (see p 111)
the sauce. Taste and add more sugar if you tomato 1, chopped (130 g) baking powder 1 t
think it needs it; the sauce should have a stock cube 1 (use one without MSG) soda water 1½ cups
sharpness to it as a foil to the richness of dissolved in 1¼ cups plus 1 T hot water,
the mackerel. Set aside and keep warm. or chicken, beef, fish or vegetable stock For the yoghurt-and-mayo sauce:
4 To make the cured mackerel, mix the Scotch Bonnet chillies 2–3, seeds left good-quality mayonnaise 5 T
salt, sugar and spices. Lay the mackerel in (or to taste) plain Greek yoghurt 5 T
fillets flat in the base of a glass or ceramic Kankankan spice mix 5 t (see p 111)

106 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


KANKANKAN
CAULIFLOWER FRITTERS
WITH YOGHURT-AND-
MAYO SAUCE

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 107


N EW COOKB OOK

sea salt and freshly ground black 6-bone racks of lamb 3, French-trimmed butter 150 g, plus extra for greasing
pepper, to taste (ask your butcher to do this for you) caster sugar 150 g
sea salt and freshly ground black free-range eggs 3
1 Place the cauliflower florets in a heatproof pepper, to taste flour 50 g
bowl and pour over boiling water to cover. self-raising flour 150 g
Allow to stand for 10 minutes then drain, For the heritage tomato salad: full-cream milk 1–2 T
pat dry and set aside. 2 Meanwhile, make white wine vinegar 1 T orange 1, zested
the yoghurt-and-mayo sauce. Place the olive oil 3 T natural orange flavouring 1 t
mayonnaise, yoghurt and Kankankan spice caster sugar ½ t
mix in a bowl. Mix thoroughly, taste and shallots 2, chopped as finely as possible 1 Make sure all the ingredients are at room
season. 3 Heat the oil in a wok or a large, tarragon 1–2 sprigs, leaves finely chopped temperature. Generously butter an 18 cm
deep, heavy-based pan no more than ripe heritage tomatoes 500 g, as many cake tin. Preheat the oven to 180°C. 2 Using
half full. While the oil is heating, whisk the colours, shapes and flavours as you can an electric hand-mixer, cream the butter
chickpea flour, Kankankan spice mix and get your hands on and sugar together in a large mixing bowl
baking powder in a bowl. Whisk in the sea salt and freshly ground black until pale, light and fluffy (10–15 minutes).
soda water a little at a time to form a batter pepper, to taste Don't rush this step; the more thoroughly
with the consistency of pancake batter the butter and sugar are combined, the
(you may not need to use it all). Add the 1 To make the Kankankan crust, mix the lighter the cake will be. Add the eggs,
cauliflower and coat in the batter. 4 To test butter, Kankankan spice mix, breadcrumbs one at a time, beating the mixture well
whether the oil is hot enough, drop some and herbs in a bowl. 2 Season the lamb between each addition. Add 1 T flour with
of the batter into the hot oil. It should sizzle with the salt. Press a thin layer of the crust the last egg to prevent curdling. 3 Sift both
and turn brown in 20 seconds. 5 Working mixture over the rounded side of the lamb flours into the bowl and gently fold in,
in batches, fry the fritters in the hot oil racks and place them in a shallow roasting adding just enough milk to form a mixture
for 8–10 minutes until golden brown and pan. Chill for 30 minutes to firm up the that drops slowly from a spoon when the
cooked through. Remove using a slotted crust. 3 Preheat the oven to 220°C. Roast spoon is held away from the bowl. Fold in
spoon, drain on a baking sheet lined with the lamb for 20–25 minutes, then remove the orange zest and flavouring. 4 Pour the
kitchen paper and keep warm. Serve with and allow to rest for about 10 minutes. batter into the prepared tin and bake for
the yoghurt-and-mayo sauce. 4 Meanwhile, make the tomato salad. 30–40 minutes or until golden-brown on
MEAT-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE Whisk together the vinegar, olive oil, sugar top and a skewer inserted into the centre
WINE: Woolworths Light Chenin Blanc and salt and pepper to taste. Add the comes out clean. Turn out onto a cooling
shallots and tarragon and mix well. Slice the rack and allow to cool. Slice and enjoy.
RACK OF LAMB WITH tomatoes and arrange in a single layer on WINE: Saronsberg White Blend
KANKANKAN CRUST a large platter, mixing different colours and
AND HERITAGE sizes. Check the seasoning of the dressing.
TOMATO SALAD 5 To serve, slice the lamb into individual ribs
“Food is deeply rooted in memory, and and arrange on 6 plates. Pour the dressing
certain foods have the ability to transport us over the tomatoes, making sure they are
back to the past and to special places. This well coated, and serve.
dish is inspired by a place in Freetown where HEALTH-CONSCIOUS
meat vendors come out at night on the Old WINE: Woolworths West Coast Organic
Railway Line, just behind the Youyi Building Cabernet Sauvignon
(Lodge). Cooking and eating it takes me
straight back there.” SIERRA LEONEAN-STYLE
RICH CAKE
Serves 6 “I have fond memories of the process involved
EASY in making this cake. We would butter the
GREAT VALUE inside of empty powdered milk tins and use
Preparation: 20 minutes, plus them as baking tins. The cake was then BUY A COPY
30 minutes’ chilling time baked outside in the open on an improvised Sweet Salone: Recipes from the
Cooking: 25 minutes oven on an open fire, using a large pot with Heart of Sierra Leone (Hardie
a lid, placed on top of three stones. We Grant) by Maria Bradford is
For the Kankankan crust: absolutely nailed it. Salone girls rule!” available at good bookstores
unsalted butter 150 g, softened and online for R705. Follow
Kankankan spice mix 6 T (see p 111) Serves 6 to 8 @shwenshwenbymaria on
fresh breadcrumbs 10 T EASY Instagram and find out more
finely chopped fresh mixed herbs, such GREAT VALUE about her catering business and
as parsley, chives and thyme a handful Preparation: 30 minutes award-winning pantry products
salt 1 t Baking: 40 minutes at shwenshwen.com.

108 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


RACK OF LAMB WITH
KANKANKAN CRUST
AND HERITAGE
TOMATO SALAD

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 109


SIERRA LEONEAN-
STYLE RICH CAKE

110 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


N EW COOKB OOK

FOR YOUR PANTRY


whole alligator pepper (or 1 T ground allow to cool. Store in a sealed jar in
WEST AFRICAN black cardamom) 1 (grind both the pod a cool dry place for up to 2 months.
PEPPER BLEND and seeds)
Makes 80 g smoked Scotch Bonnet chilli flakes SPICED PEANUTS
or powder 1 T Makes 400 g
grains of paradise (or black pepper spiced peanuts 100 g, chopped (see right)
or black cardamom) 2½ t ground ginger 2½ T ground allspice 1 t
black peppercorns 2 T garlic powder 2 T freshly grated nutmeg 1 t
white peppercorns 2 T onion powder 2 T ground coriander 1 t
cubeb pepper 1 T smoked paprika 3 T ground ginger 1 t
allspice berries 3 T salt 1 t cinnamon 1 t
chilli powder ¼ t
Toast all the peppercorns in a dry pan 1 Using a coffee grinder, grind the grains salt 1 t
over a medium heat until fragrant. of selim, nutmeg, alligator pepper or black peanut oil 1 T
Allow to cool, then grind in a spice cardamom and chilli flakes to a powder. unsalted skinless peanuts 400 g
grinder or pestle and mortar. Store in Place in a pan. 2 Add the peanuts and
an airtight jar for up to three months. remaining spices to the coffee grinder and 1 Preheat the oven to 170°C. Mix all
grind again briefly; avoid over-processing. the spices in a bowl with the oil, then
KANKANKAN SPICE MIX Add to the pan with the salt. Stir well. stir in the peanuts and mix until the
Makes 200 g 3 Place the pan over a medium heat and, nuts are well coated. 2 Spread the nuts
using a wooden spoon, toss the spice onto a baking tray in a single layer and
grains of selim (or black cardamom) mixture in the pan for about 5 minutes, or bake for 20–25 minutes, keeping a
6 strands until fragrant. Be careful not to let the spices close eye on them to ensure they don’t
calabash nutmeg 3 burn. 4 Turn off the heat, set aside and burn. Cool completely before serving.

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 00


SOUPS & SI DES

CHOP.
SIMMER.
SAVOUR.

112 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


SOUPS & SI DES

CREAMY CHIPOTLE-
AND-SWEET POTATO
SOUP WITH POLENTA
CAKE AND CRISPY
CHORIZO
R62 PER SERVING

Creamy or chunky, meaty or plant-forward, Abigail Donnelly’s


new recipes for everything from brothy Irish stew to creamy
chipotle soup – with plenty on the side – are designed
to deliver maximum comfort

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS RECIPES AND PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY


FOOD ASSISTANT CHERI KUSTNER

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 113


SOUPS & SI DES

“These new recipes are


some of my favourite
no-fuss, nutritious soups
for cosy nights in. And
because there’s no
such thing as too much
comfort, I’ve also included
recommendations for sides
(butter rotis, polenta cake)
and optional extras
(risotto) to make them
even more filling as family
suppers.”– Abigail Donnelly

FIRE-ROASTED
TOMATO-AND-CHICKEN
SOUP WITH BABY
MARROW FRIES
R45 PER SERVING

114 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


SOUPS & SI DES

LAMB KNUCKLE-AND-
POTATO IRISH
STEW-STYLE SOUP
R47 PER SERVING

LAMB KNUCKLE-AND- celery 2 sticks, chopped


POTATO IRISH STEW- onions 2, peeled and chopped
STYLE SOUP bay leaves 3
“Nothing brings cold-weather comfort water 1 litre
like my favourite Irish stew – or this brothy potatoes 4, peeled and quartered
version with all the traditional flavours ground white pepper, to taste
that make it such a classic.”
1 Place the flour in a bowl and season
Serves 6 with salt. Dust the lamb in the flour.
EASY 2 Heat the oil in a large saucepan and
GREAT VALUE brown the lamb in batches. 3 Add all
Preparation: 15 minutes the remaining ingredients except the
Cooking: 2 hours potatoes, then add the water until
the ingredients are just submerged.
flour 200 g 4 Cover and simmer for 1½ hours.
salt, to taste Add the potatoes and cook until soft.
free-range lamb knuckles 750 g Season to taste.
canola oil 2 T DAIRY-FREE
carrots 4, peeled and halved WINE: Paul Clüver Seven Flags Pinot Noir

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 115


cake tin with baking paper. In the bowl of a
stand mixer, cream the sugar and butter until
pale and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time
while beating, followed by the lemon juice
and zest. Sift together the dry ingredients and
add a few tablespoons at a time, mixing until
a smooth batter forms. Pour the batter into
the cake tin and bake for 30–40 minutes, or
until a skewer comes out clean. Allow to cool
in the tin. Slice into wedges to serve. 5 Place
the soup in a saucepan and add the cream.
Heat through, season to taste and sprinkle
with the chorizo and almonds. Serve with
the polenta cake.
WINE: Diemersfontein Chocolate Pinotage

FIRE-ROASTED TOMATO-
AND-CHICKEN SOUP WITH
BABY MARROW FRIES
“This soup makes its own stock while the chicken
roasts with the herbs, onions and water. To make
a version of chicken noodle soup, you could add
cooked risotto.”
SAMBAR-STYLE
INDIAN FISH BROTH Serves 4
WITH YOGHURT- EASY
BAKED BRINJAL GREAT VALUE
R47 PER SERVING Preparation: 15 minutes
Cooking: 1 hour

CREAMY CHIPOTLE-AND- cream 1 cup whole free-range chicken 1


SWEET POTATO SOUP flaked almonds 50 g, toasted, to garnish onion 1, peeled and chopped
WITH POLENTA CAKE bay leaves 2
AND CRISPY CHORIZO For the polenta cake: thyme 4 sprigs
“Warming spices and chorizo add bold sugar 200 g sage leaves 6
flavour to this creamy veg soup, made even butter 250 g water 1 litre
more comforting with a wedge of polenta free-range eggs 4 tomatoes 4, halved
cake on the side.” lemons 2, zested and juiced salt, to taste
flour 200 g
Serves 4 polenta 140 g For the baby marrow fries:
EASY salt, to taste sunflower oil 3 cups
GREAT VALUE baby marrows 12, cut into thin matchsticks
Preparation: 25 minutes 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the cornflour 100 g
Cooking: 1 hour sweet potatoes and onion on a baking tray. salt, to taste
Sprinkle over the spices, drizzle with the mayonnaise, for serving
Woolworths Kara sweet potatoes olive oil, dot with butter and season. Roast
1 kg, peeled and roughly chopped for 20–30 minutes, or until the sweet potato 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the
red onion 1, chopped is soft and slightly caramelised. 2 Blend the chicken, onion, herbs and water in a casserole
fennel seeds 2 t sweet potato and onions with the chicken dish. Cover and roast for 1 hour. 2 Place the
coriander seeds 1 t stock and chipotle sauce, then pass tomatoes on a very hot cast-iron grill and cook
smoked paprika 1 t through a sieve to remove the husks of the on both sides until soft. 3 Break the chicken
olive oil 2 T seeds for an ultra-silky, smooth soup. Set into pieces in the stock and add the tomatoes.
butter 30 g, diced aside while you make the chorizo and Season to taste. Serve with the baby marrow
salt, to taste polenta cake. 3 To make the crispy chorizo, fries and mayo. 4 To make the baby marrow
chicken stock 2 cups peel the skin off the chorizo and chop the fries, heat the oil in a saucepan. Lightly toss
Woolworths chipotle sauce 3 T chorizo into small pieces. Fry in the olive oil the baby marrow in cornflour and shake off
chorizo 100 g until crispy. 4 To make the polenta cake, any excess. Fry in batches until golden brown,
olive oil 2 T preheat the oven to 180°C and line a 20 cm then drain on kitchen paper.

116 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


SOUPS & SI DES

VEGETABLE-AND-
MUSHROOM
WONTON SOUP
“Readymade prawn potstickers from your
freezer make this quick, flavourful noodle
soup even more substantial.”

Serves 4
EASY
Preparation: 12 minutes
Cooking: 10 minutes

Woolworths medium egg noodles 4 nests


beef stock 1 litre
Woolworths exotic mushrooms
1 x 300 g punnet, sliced
Woolworths baby pak choi
1 x 200 g pack, sliced
Woolworths frozen potstickers
with prawn 1 x 500 g pack
Woolworths chilli Szechuan pepper oil,
for dipping
Woolworths Asian sliced ginger 60 g

1 Cook the noodles in boiling water, then


VEGETABLE-AND- drain in a colander and set aside. 2 Bring the
MUSHROOM beef stock to a simmer in a saucepan. Add
WONTON SOUP the mushrooms and simmer for 5 minutes.
3 Add the pak choi and potstickers and
simmer for a further 5 minutes. 4 Divide
the noodles between bowls, spoon over
the broth and serve with the Szechuan
pepper oil and ginger.
FAT-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE
WINE: Lautus Alcohol-free Sparkling Wine

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 117


on both sides over a medium heat. 4 Mix
the turmeric, chilli, ginger and garlic with the
yoghurt and spread onto the brinjals. Bake for
15 minutes. Serve alongside the soup and rotis,
garnished with coriander.
HEALTH-CONSCIOUS
WINE: Jordan Nine Yards Chardonnay

MINI BEEF FRIKKADEL-


AND-BUTTER BEAN TAGINE
SOUP WITH DATE-AND-
PARSLEY SALSA
“Use canned chickpeas instead of butter beans,
or make up the quantity with both and save the
rest to add to another recipe. Always add the
brine from the can to help thicken the soup.”

Serves 4
EASY
GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 15 minutes
Cooking: 25 minutes

Woolworths sosatie beef frikkadels 300 g


olive oil 2 T
red onions 2, diced
MINI BEEF FRIKKADEL-AND- garlic 2 t crushed
BUTTER BEAN TAGINE SOUP WITH chilli 1, halved
DATE-AND-PARSLEY SALSA coriander seeds 1 t
R62 PER SERVING cumin seeds 1 t
sumac 2 t
butter beans 1 x 400 g can
DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE frozen hake 150 g chopped tomatoes 1 x 400 g can
WINE: Hartenberg The Stork Shiraz frozen trout fillets 150 g chicken or vegetable stock 3 cups
salt, to taste
SAMBAR-STYLE INDIAN Woolworths mini butter rotis, For the date-and-parsley salsa:
FISH BROTH WITH warmed, for serving parsley 30 g, chopped
YOGHURT-BAKED fresh coriander, to garnish green olives 15, halved
BRINJALS dates 10, chopped
“Use the fish of your choice, or do half and For the brinjals: Woolworths date syrup 2 T
half as we have. And if you like it spicy, add sunflower oil 4 T lemon juice 2 T
a chopped fresh chilli.” large brinjals 2, sliced into thick rounds salt, to taste
fresh turmeric 1 t crushed
Serves 6 chilli 1 t crushed 1 Divide each frikkadel in half, then roll each
EASY fresh ginger 1 t crushed half into a smaller ball. 2 Heat the oil in a large
GREAT VALUE garlic 1 t crushed pan and brown the meatballs in batches.
Preparation: 15 minutes plain yoghurt 1 cup Set aside. In the same pan, fry the onions,
Cooking: 20 minutes salt, to taste garlic, chilli and spices until the onions are
soft. 3 Add the butter beans, tomatoes and
ghee 2 T 1 Heat the ghee in a pan. Add the onion stock and simmer for 15 minutes. In the last
onion 1, finely chopped and cook over a low heat until soft. Add 5 minutes of cooking time, add the frikkadels
garlic 2 t crushed the garlic, ginger, turmeric, curry leaves and and cook through. 4 To make the salsa, mix
fresh ginger 2 t crushed curry powder. Cook for 1 minute, stirring. the parsley, olives and dates. Drizzle with the
fresh turmeric 1 t crushed 2 Add the tomatoes and stock, cover and date syrup and lemon juice. Serve alongside
fresh curry leaves 10 (or 2 sprigs) simmer for 5 minutes. Add the fish, cover bowls of the soup.
Woolworths hot curry powder 2 T and poach for 5 minutes. 3 To make the FAT-CONSCIOUS
crushed tomatoes 1 x 400 g can brinjals, preheat the oven to 180°C. Heat WINE: Raka Biography Shiraz
fish stock 3 cups the oil in a cast-iron pan. Cook the brinjal

118 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

THE SLICE IS RIGHT


Classic ham-and-cheese sarmies are about to get an update with Woolies’ range of local and
imported sliced cheeses and cured meats. Choose between perfect-for-melting provolone
and mozzarella from Italy, and flavoured Cheddar slices made using local milk. These cheeses
pair beautifully with prosciutto, coppa, salame Napoli and Milano, which are imported from
Italy, where they’re cured, smoked and matured for the best flavour. woolworths.co.za
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT LERATO MOTAU
SOUPS & SI DES

THAI GREEN CURRY For the roasted Brussels sprouts:


PORK NOODLE Brussels sprouts 300 g
SOUP WITH olive oil
ROASTED BRUSSELS Woolworths Blue Elephant tamarind
SPROUTS AND dressing ½ cup
TAMARIND DRESSING
“This quick soup has all the flavours of 1 Heat the oil in a large, deep frying pan.
a Thai green curry but is more liquid. Fry the pork very quickly. 2 Remove the
Swap the pork fillet for chicken or beef.” pork from the pan and add the curry
paste and lime leaves to the pan. Stir-fry
Serves 4 for 1 minute. Pour in the coconut milk
EASY and stock and simmer for 5 minutes.
GREAT VALUE 3 Return the pork to the pan and season
Preparation: 15 minutes with fish sauce. Serve with the roasted
Cooking: 15 minutes Brussels sprouts. 4 To make the roasted
Brussels sprouts, toss them in the olive
sesame oil 1 T oil and place in an air-fryer basket. Fry
pork fillet 400 g, very thinly sliced at 200°C for 15 minutes. Remove, then
Woolworths Thai green curry paste toss with the dressing.
1 x 70 g sachet Cook’s note: If you don't have an air-fryer,
Woolworths Thai lime leaves 4 roast the Brussels sprouts in the oven at
coconut milk 1 x 400 ml can 180°C for 30 minutes.
chicken stock 2 cups CARB-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE
fish sauce 2 T WINE: Kleine Zalze Brut Cap Classique

THAI GREEN CURRY


PORK NOODLE
SOUP WITH
ROASTED BRUSSELS
SPROUTS AND
TAMARIND DRESSING
R72 PER SERVING

120 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


THE REVIVAL
OF NOSTALGIC
FLAVOURS

There’s something magical about the way indigenous


ingredients and age-old cooking techniques can transform
a simple dish into a culinary masterpiece. As consumers seek
out the nostalgia of their favourite home-cooked meals, the
food and beverage sectors are rallying to give authentic
African food its rightful place at the table.
$CQDCDKOƂPQOCTWNCOKNNGVOQRCPGYQTOUOQTKPIC
sorghum, umhlonyane and shisanyama are all making their way
into the mainstream, gaining recognition for their nutritional
value. Deeply rooted in African culture, these and other
ingredients have the potential to offer healthier alternatives
for people and the planet.
That is why, at Kerry, we eat the streets to understand local
VCUVGU9KVJEQPUWOGTUTGCF[VQGODTCEGVJGVCUVGRTQƂNGUQH
the traditional foods they grew up with, the industry needs to
adapt faster. Tapping into emerging technologies can provide
insights to create solutions tailored for consumers and their
lifestyles, such as the 2024 Kerry Taste and Nutrition Charts for
sub-Saharan Africa signalling atchar masala and ushatini among
VJGHCUVGUVITQYKPIGOGTIKPIƃCXQWTU6JGUGKPUKIJVUECPJGNR
From concept to creation, Smiso Ndlovu,
unlock their potential to meet consumer needs quicker.
executive chef at Kerry Southern Africa, crafts
Kerry harnesses these insights in collaboration with research WPKSWGƃCXQWTRTQƂNGUVJCVTGFGƂPGVJGHQQF
teams, marketers, chefs, baristas, mixologists and nutritionists and beverage landscape. He is passionate
VQOCMGYGNNHQWPFGFRTGFKEVKQPUCDQWVHWVWTGƃCXQWTCPF CDQWVUMKNNHWNN[UJCRKPIWPKSWGVCUVGRTQƂNGU
ingredient preferences. that transcend the ordinary in the world of
food and beverages. Each dish he creates is
a testament to his dedication to revitalising
VTCFKVKQPCNƃCXQWTUCPFGNGXCVKPIFKPKPI
experiences.
J OB UR G PÂTI SSER I E

122 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


J OB UR G PÂTI SSER I E

In what he calls his ghost kitchen in Sandton, Jared Melamed and


his team at La Tarte are producing some of the most exquisite
French-style pastries this side of the Champs-Élysées

PHOTOGRAPHS ELSA YOUNG PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY


TEXT JEANNE CALITZ

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 123


Miss Exotique (left):
Sweet pastry with almond
sponge, granadilla crémeux,
coconut mousse, coconut
shavings, desiccated
coconut and a mirror glaze.
Le Petit Feist (right):
Almond sponge with
whipped vanilla ganache,
a raspberry fruit puck,
and a mirror glaze.
“I started to dig deep
Miss Madagascar
and it was all there, (below left): Choux pastry
with Madagascan vanilla
this arsenal of ideas bean crème patissiere,
whipped vanilla ganache
I had collected over and salted caramel sauce.
18 years of travel”

124 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


Miss Exotique (below
left). Paris-Brest (below
right): Choux pastry with
hazelnut praline, praline
mouselline, almond flakes
and roasted hazelnuts.
Choux à la framboise
(below): Choux pastry,
vanilla crème légère, confit
raspberry, raspberry gel
and crème diplomate.

safe to say that Jared Melamed is not


a traditional pastry chef. For one
thing, he is completely self-taught.
For another, he has travelled the world
as a professional diver. (He was also
deported from Australia, but we’ll
get to that later.)
But despite the unconventional path
he has taken to master his craft, there
can be no doubt that he has done just
that – mastered it. Under the banner of
his business La Tarte in Johannesburg,
Jared and his team are producing
world-class, French-style pastries,
desserts and baked goods that are
in high demand.
Now 36, Jared took the first step on
this journey almost 18 years ago, albeit
unwittingly at the time. Having won
some money at a casino, he took off on
a solo trip to Spain – against his parents’
wishes, he was still at school, after all.
“I thought I was so clever,” he laughs
about it now. “Until I found myself
alone on the streets of Barcelona,
knowing no one, almost in tears.”
But something was born on that trip:
“A love of good food, interesting food
and a hunger for more.” He came home,
finished school, and took off again, this
time headed to Thailand to qualify as
a diver, a skill he leveraged for more
than a decade to support his culinary
adventures. While travelling the world
as a diver, he simultaneously interned
in professional kitchens along the way.
After Thailand, Jared went to
Australia – on a tourist visa – and landed
a job at the well-known Club Sandwich
at Bondi Beach. “That was my first
experience of the fast-paced scene
of a gourmet coffee shop/brasserie,
and I loved it. But then I went on a trip
to New Zealand and when I returned,
they absolutely hammered me at customs
for being on the wrong visa.” He was
promptly detained for two nights at

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 125


J OB UR G PÂTI SSER I E

a refugee camp (no joke), before being Next to join the team was Princess,
deported to South Africa with a five-year who used to work as a domestic worker
Australian travel ban in his passport. for Jared’s mom. Jared trained her too
“A week later,” Jared says with an and soon “we were like this little
unabashed grin, “I was on a plane headed dysfunctional family in the kitchen,
for the Gili Islands in Indonesia.” After banging out high-end French-style
that came Malaysia, then Singapore – pastries in their hundreds”.
where he was blown away by the level of
cuisine at the Michelin-starred restaurants Today, La Tarte produces up to 900
– and Hong Kong, where he acquired individual desserts every week – for
a French girlfriend. The couple travelled markets, hotels, coffee shops and private
to Europe where Jared encountered French orders. This might not sound like
cuisine and pâtisserie. It was while in a lot until you realise the level of skill
France that it dawned on him: “This is involved, the quality of the ingredients
what I love. This is what I want to do.” that go into Jared’s creations, and until
But the time wasn‘t quite right. Next you actually see these desserts and marvel


came a two-year stay in Phuket, running at their sheer beauty and perfection.
a concierge service renting villas to Imagine the delight that is “Le Petit
tourists, and finally, when Covid-19 struck Feist” (named after Jared’s late dog, and
in 2020, Jared started inching his way back one of his signature inventions): a round
almond sponge filled with a whipped
vanilla ganache, topped with a jewel-like
were like this little layer of raspberry fruit puck and finished
with nappage neutre (or mirror glaze)
dysfunctional family in the kitchen, to give it that final gloss. The artistry
banging out high-end French-style is astonishing.
Jared might not be classically trained,
pastries in their hundreds” but his standards are extraordinarily high,
and both his technical knowledge and
to South Africa. It took a while but he total precision are remarkable.
finally landed in Jozi, where he joined the “We don’t cut corners,” he says plainly.
team at Sotto Sopra restaurant. “I was “We use only the best ingredients and
brought on board to rework the menu, to we don’t skimp on them because it makes
help revitalise the space, and it was going a world of difference. Everything is made
well – but I was in the pastry section every from scratch – the fruit purées, the
day. I kept it to myself, but I was always confitures, the pralines. I could go on
thinking and dreaming about pâtisserie.” and on about the different kinds of pectin
When a planned big project with his we use to set the purées and would
then business partner fell through, Jared happily talk your ears off about the
was finally able to give his full attention thermo-reversible varieties I use.”
to his dream. “I started to dig deep and it Clearly, this is a man obsessed
was all there, this arsenal of ideas I’d (in a good way) – a man who lives,
collected over 18 years of travel – the breathes and dreams pastry.
recipes, the flavour profiles, the memories. What’s next for La Tarte? Jared is
“And the idea for La Tarte was born, looking for a suitable retail space to
one Wednesday night. Three weeks later open a pâtisserie in either Cape Town
I‘d rented a kitchen in Sandton and hired or Johannesburg. He has a sophisticated,
one staff member, someone who’d worked stylish space in mind, where customers
with me at Sotto and who I trained to start can enjoy his perfect creations, baked
working in pastry.” treats and breads, and, of course, an
They started baking for the city’s excellent cup of coffee or tea.
markets. “I would get up at 3 am to bake “I’ve always known that I would one
150 pastry shells to get us through the day do my own thing, open my own
weekend. I hired another staff member and place,” smiles Jared. “I just got a bit
we started to produce more for another sidetracked along the way.”
market. Soon, people started talking; Now, he’s totally invested in La Tarte’s
the coffee shops and hotels began asking: next phase and, quite frankly, so are we.
how do we get hold of your products?” @latarte_patisserie

126 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


J OB UR G PÂTI SSER I E

QUICK-FIRE:
THE DESSERT EDITION
Cream or créme fraîche?
Always cream – for the
higher fat content.
Malva pudding or Peppermint Crisp
tart? Neither! Give me a milk
tart done right, old-school,
with a blistered top.
How about chocolate cake – flourless
or classic sponge? Flourless. I want
to taste the chocolate, not air.
Fancy-ish French desserts: crème
brûlée or crêpes Suzette?
It’s crème brûlée for me.
Vanilla or brandy custard?
Classic vanilla all the way.
Macaron or éclair? Don’t get
me started, always choux,
always the éclair. Top: Choux à la
framboise.
Best-ever coffee-flavoured dessert?
Opera cake (almond sponge Middle: Tarte aux
cake soaked in coffee syrup, fraises: Choux pastry,
layered with ganache and vanilla sponge, confit
French coffee buttercream, strawberry, fresh
covered in a chocolate glaze). strawberries, vanilla
whipped ganache.
The ice-cream flavour that should be Bottom: Le Petit Feist.
banned? Bubblegum! Cast it out
all the way to the Bermuda
Triangle.
The only dessert cocktail worth
PÂTISSERIE GLOSSARY
consuming? A spiced chai
old-fashioned. Crème diplomate
Pastry cream combined with whipped cream
The dessert that takes you back
with added gelatine for stability.
to your childhood? Bread-and-
butter pudding. Crème légère
A combination of classic pastry cream
and whipped cream.
Crème mousseline
A fluffy, silky buttercream made of pastry
cream and whipped butter.
Crème pâtissière
Pastry cream – a rich vanilla cream,
thickened with flour or cornflour,
and used as a filling for pastries.
Pailleté feuilletine
“Leaf-like flakes” – a super-thin crêpe
crumbled into flakes.
Pâte à choux
Choux pastry – a rich, light pastry used for
the likes of profiteroles and éclairs.
Pâte sablée
A rich shortcrust pastry.
Pâte sucrée
Sweet pastry dough, enriched
with egg, butter, vanilla and sugar.
Tourbillon
The technique of piping a spiral shape
onto a surface.

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 127


J OB UR G PÂTI SSER I E

Vanilla pecan:
Crunchy feuilletine
pecan base, pure vanilla
white chocolate mousse,
pecan praline insert,
vanilla-and-white
chocolate mirror glaze
topped with roasted
pecans.

128 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


Le Gallet: Pâte
sablée, crunchy
hazelnut pailleté
feuilletine, caramel
tourbillon, a layer
of chocolate mousse
and milk chocolate
whipped ganache.

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 129


LON DON CA LLI N G

WHAT
FINE-DINING
DID

130 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


On her first trip there in a decade, Kate Wilson W H E N YO U A S K
went looking for new food trends in the UK A G R E AT C H E F H O W
and discovered the best Mexican, Portuguese TH E Y DISCOVE RE D
and Indian food in London, and more… T H I S WA S T H E I R
C A L L I N G – spending gruelling,
These are the chefs who are changing 16-hour days in the kitchen brigade,
the face of fine-dining sweating over their station to the endless
chorus of “Yes chef!” – most have an
origin story, a nostalgic childhood memory
of eating their first oyster in France
with their father (Anthony Bourdain) or
helping “the cook prepare school lunches”
(Merlin Labron-Johnson, see p 137).
But, “I don’t have a romantic story
of being the son of a fisherman or my
grandmother doing fresh pasta,” says
Santiago Lastro, chef-patron of the
Michelin-starred KOL, in London.
“I’m from the millennial generation in
Mexico – when I was a kid a microwave
was something new. So women were able
to work because they didn’t have to cook.”
But Santi, as he is known, was curious
about food. The first thing he ever made
was a crab dip, using borrowed ingredients
and a recipe off the back of a Ritz cracker
box. “I’d make sure we always had that
crab dip,” he says proudly, “so everyone
who came to the house would have it.”
Which is how, when other millennial
teens were playing Xbox, he could be
found making his own pasta. “Every
recipe was like playing a game, you unlock
characters, you unlock recipes. Suddenly
I could make bread and risotto, I went up
the levels, and I had the power to unlock
flavours and share them with people.”
So, at 15, his mother took him for
an interview at a local Italian restaurant
and they took him on.
“I loved it,” he says, “but the turning
point was when my father and my
grandfather and my grandmother all passed
away in the same month.” He says it
matter-of-factly, but it quietens the table.
“I’d been working in the restaurant for
four months – I was going to school at
7 am and finishing at 2 and then going
to the restaurant at 3 and I’d finish at
11 pm every day. But when this happened
to my family, I stopped going to school
for a while, and I just went to the
restaurant. I felt safe there. I would bring
food home to my mother and my brother
and I remember seeing them from the
kitchen, looking happy in a moment
when we were so sad, and I thought
TEXT KATE WILSON ‘I will do this for the rest of my life.’ ”

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 131


LON DON CA LLI N G

And that is Santiago’s origin story. He started getting DMs from restaurants After cooking in 27 different countries,
His restaurant, KOL, which is at and chefs via Instagram. “I would get he chose London for its open-mindedness,
number 23 on the World’s 50 Best list, invitations to Hong Kong and Taiwan and critically, because the ingredients
serves a modern Mexican tasting menu and Paris and Turkey. I was going to all would be radically different. “I wanted to
in a quiet street in Marylebone. these countries, just by people contacting showcase something special, something
His food is the work of someone with me on Instagram. Sometimes I’d wait that would make sense here, but that you
an extraordinary brain, but to describe weeks. I’d have no money and I’d be also couldn’t get in Mexico. So I needed
it as Mexican re-interpreted with British staying in a hostel, eating rice, until a place where the weather is very different
ingredients is an over-simplification. Yes, someone sent me a message. and also where I could find investment
he deliberately replaces non-indigenous, “I was just ‘the guy who was doing because I didn’t just want to open a
out-of-season produce with ingredients pop-ups, who is Mexican,’ ” he says, neighbourhood restaurant, I wanted
that mimic the flavours, but it’s also more wryly. “Sometimes I was doing five events to make an impact.”
conceptual than that and more complex. in five different countries in one week.
So Cornish crab has fermented It was crazy. I almost had a heart attack ANOTHER CHEF
gooseberries standing in for limes, once. But I met so many people.” M A K I N G A N I M PAC T
sandwiched between light pink corn And then, aged 26, while doing a stint at the top end of the London restaurant
wafers; the signature langoustine taco in a restaurant in St Petersburg, he got scene and with a similar ethos, academic
with smoked chilli features foraged sea a call. It was René Redzepi. pedigree and Michelin-studded work
buckthorn; pistachio purée might replace The legendary Noma chef needed experience (he also worked at Mugaritz),
avocado, and a pinched tortilla filled with a project manager for his planned Noma is Chetan Sharma of BiBi in Mayfair. It’s
peas is covered with a layer of Wagyu Mexico pop-up. “I think he must have the home of the Bentley set, Savile Row
glazed with a reduction of bone marrow, thought, ‘This guy was recommended and the very Instagrammable food court
lardo and rose. It is joyful food. by so many people from so many different Mercato Mayfair, which is housed in
A dish I will never tire of describing countries, he must be good.’ So I quit a deconsecrated church.
is the mole coloradito, traditionally made and the next day I took a flight to Like Santi, Sharma is the quintessential
in Oaxaca with mashed plantains, but at Copenhagen to meet them.” food “nerd” – he has a physics doctorate
KOL the sauce is made with dried carrot The whole experience, first working at from Oxford, worked at the serially
chips – “They taste like plantains!” says Noma itself and then travelling through name-dropped The Ledbury (among
Santi – and fermented blackcurrant. It is Mexico with Redzepi, leading research others), before being backed to open
served with a single purple carrot, cut trips, creating supply chains, sourcing BiBi – named for his grandmothers and
their influence on his food (see origin
story, paragraph one).
“I saw this place we’d built in the jungle, The menu is modern Indian, but relies
heavily on seasonal British ingredients –
where we were representing Mexico, so a spicy Scottish beef “fry” is served raw
and it changed my plan” and uses fermented Tellicherry pepper;
– Santiago Lastro, KOL Swaledale lamb barra kebab (a signature
dish) is made with mutton chops from
Yorkshire; and scallops from Devon –
down the centre, effectively butterflied, suppliers and preparing for the seven-week hand-dived and transported in a boat
and “massaged to break down the fibres”. pop-up in the Yucatan, changed Santi’s named “Bagheera” – are served on the
The result could be a perfect piece of entire career trajectory, leading directly shell with puffed quinoa in a puddle of
steak set in a pool of the deep purple to this quiet street in Marylebone. cloudy lemon juice with green chilli and
sauce – instead it is a soft, sweetly “It was a big job. I lost 10 kg. And basil seeds. This is nimbu pani, a drink
roasted carrot. my girlfriend. But it was a life-changing ubiquitous in India, a kind of street-style
Santi’s cooking is also the result of years experience. This opportunity made me lemonade. It is an ingenious pairing of the
spent travelling, but also studying and, learn more about Mexico in one year old with the new.
critically, thinking. He won a scholarship than in my entire life. And it gave me this One of my favourite dishes was minced
to do his master’s at the Basque Culinary crazy idea to open this place. I thought goat, ludicrously tender, served with rotis,
Center where he also worked at the I was going to go back to Mexico, but red onion and coriander to be hand-rolled
famous Mugaritz before moving to this changed my plan. I saw this place that and, if I’d had the chance, stowed away
Copenhagen and studying at the we’d built in the jungle, where we were for later as this is not a tasting menu that
Nordic Food Lab. giving recognition and value to things could be described as diminutive. More
The plan was to travel and return to that had never had that before in the accurately, it’s called the Chef ’s Selection
Mexico to open a research centre. But world, and we were representing Mexico Menu, as Sharma was recently quoted
then he did “the Swedish pop-up”. and everyone loved it. I thought: I need in the Observer Food Monthly as saying
“This was before pop-ups were really to open a restaurant somewhere where “there’s some bad branding around
a thing,” he says. And he was noticed. I can keep doing this.” the phrase ‘tasting menu’ ”.

132 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


SANTI’S
GREAT BRITISH
TAKE OFFS
Favourite British dishes?
Toad in the hole, sticky toffee
pudding, potato-and-nettle
soup. “I am obsessed with
Yorkshire pudding –
the texture of it.”
Rhubarb:
“In season we do a ceviche with
sea bass and a rhubarb
compote and rhubarb
granita with chillies.”
Pistachios, puréed:
A swap for avocado.
Dried carrot chips:
Substituted for plantains
in mole.
Fermented gooseberries:
When limes are not in season.
Woodruff:
A foraged ingredient that
can replace vanilla.
Clockwise from top left: The signature
langoustine tacos at KOL; the earth-textured
modern Mexican interior; Santiago Lastro,
36, chef-patron; pinched tortilla filled with
peas, elderflower and seaweed oil, topped
with glazed Wagyu beef.

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 133


“A vegetarian dish of buffalo
milk paneer served with
shaved truffles is like
a priceless treasure”
Often decried for being overpriced and exhausting
(by myself even), the tasting menu, if done right, can
actually offer more value than à la carte.
It also gives the team the opportunity to perfect dishes
without wasting time prepping ingredients that aren’t
sold. And, perhaps most critically for the industry, the
efficiencies can result in a kitchen where the team looks
more like they do behind the counter at BiBi and less
like the bloodshot-eyed, overwrought cast of The Bear.
And this chef ’s menu doesn’t miss a beat. A vegetarian
dish of buffalo milk paneer served with shaved truffles is
like a priceless treasure, while the chicken Lahori with
cashew and yoghurt, served
with dhal and crispy-onion
rice towards the end of the
meal challenged my moral
obligation never to leave
Clockwise from above: Devon scallops a delicious morsel behind.
with puffed quinoa and nimbu pani Even the snacks at the
at BiBi in Mayfair; chef-patron Chet start – fat, wafer-like
Sharma; the interior at BiBi. poppadums made with
Wookey Hole Cheddar
(a Somerset landmark)
served with a dip of crème
fraîche and a bright green
mango chutney – was so
good it inspired a recipe
I developed for our 20th
birthday issue (find it at
taste.co.za).

ON THE
OTHER SIDE
OF OXFORD
S T R E E T,
in Fitzrovia, celebrated
chef Nuno Mendes has
re-emerged (don’t call
it a comeback) with a
restaurant that does not,
in fact, offer a tasting menu.
Unlike previous projects, the Michelin-touted
Viajante and celebrity favourite The Chiltern Firehouse,
Lisboeta is more low-key to mimic the pace of his
hometown and (yes!) with at least one dish inspired by
his grandmother. Interviewed for The Standard, Mendes
said: “We have these prawn rissois, as a snack. They’re
just … her, you know? I was making them and I was
following her footsteps. It was so emotional. That was
my biggest influence, that cooking based purely on love.
It marked me, it formed me. And when I tasted them,
there was that feeling – these are part of my culture.”

134 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


Described as a “love letter to Lisbon”, you can grab a classic bifana
(Portuguese steak roll) at the counter downstairs for lunch, book a table
on the first floor and order small plates, or take out a second bond and
book the private dining room in the basement – which has its own wine
cellar and a high-end menu for the full Mendes immersion experience.
We chose a selection of Portuguese classics transformed into something
requiring a moment of silence. Firstly to appreciate the sheer mastery of
technique. Secondly, to allow one of my dining companions to drink
the garlic butter from the stuffed mushrooms right out of the bowl.
Highlights included a dish of bejewelled tomato rice with huge scarlet
prawns, sirloin with coffee sauce and bacalhau à Brás, which is Mendes’s
exalted version of salt cod and fried potatoes cooked with egg. His
version involves folding confit salt cod and golden caramelised onions
softly through whole egg yolks and topping it with a mound of
impossibly skinny shoestring fries. The best fish and chips imaginable.
And then there is the abade de priscos. When I tell our Portuguese
waiter I’d like the dessert she’d recommend, she beams with national
pride. Later, a perfect scoop of whipped,
set egg custard – infused with the
smokiness of lardo – and served on a
ruby-coloured Port caramel sauce, is put
in front of me. It’s a sweet, salty, savoury
crème caramel that makes Heston
Blumenthal’s famous egg-and-bacon
ice cream seem gimmicky and derivative
(sorry, Heston). The kind of dish you
don’t want anyone else to taste – a secret
you want to keep all for yourself.
It’s a meal of contrasts: simple,
exceptional produce treated with precise
technique, but also given a lighter touch.
The work of a chef who has earned his

“It’s a sweet, salty,


savoury crème
caramel that makes
Heston Blumenthal’s
egg-and-bacon
ice cream seem
gimmicky”
stars and wants to do what he does for the
simple joy of it. Both Santi and Mendes
have been quoted as saying the restaurant business can ask you
to sacrifice too much, and that needs to change. They both want in Fitzrovia; chef
Nuno Mendes;
to support a shift in the culture.
tomato rice with
“People get completely broken in kitchens and they lose their sense prawns.
of self-pride,” Mendes told The Standard. “I don’t like that and I see that
a lot. I think that we need to strike that balance of work and life. I want
to have quality of life, and I want that to feed into my work. That’s
something I think a lot of chefs want.”
This new, more palatable work ethic is possibly the result of the
massive Covid-induced trauma suffered by the restaurant industry.
Although the impact was felt everywhere, a food destination city
like London was always going to be altered in more extreme ways.

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 135


STAND
DELIVER
How Turnips, a family-run vegetable stand in Borough
Market, started serving a tasting menu
It’s an unlikely place for a fine-dining restaurant,
the back of a vegetable stand at Borough Market,
but that’s what you get when you book at Turnips.
The brainchild of fifth-generation greengrocer
Charlie Foster and Lithuanian-born chef Tomas
Lidakevicius, who has worked his way through
several Michelin-starred kitchens, Turnips grew from
a conversation between the two during lockdown.
Running his parents’ stand, Turnips, which has been
at Borough for three decades, Foster found himself
faced with a shortage of clients as restaurants
closed and people stayed home. To keep the team
together, he started putting together food boxes
for NHS workers, collaborating with several chef
volunteers. One of these was Lidakevicius, who had
been cooking at City Social under Jason Atherton.
Serendipitously, when the market greenlit outdoor
dining towards the end of 2020, the two decided
to open a restaurant, which they did, within the
space of a fortnight.

“That’s the best butter


you’ll ever taste!
I bet my life on it!”
Naturally, Turnips is farm-to-table taken to its logical
conclusion, with a modern British tasting menu
comprising 80% veg and 20% protein. Perhaps the
most literally “sustainable” restaurant in London,
Lidakevicius’s goal is to achieve “zero-waste” status.
As a celebration of quality, seasonal produce, this is
an experience unlike any other. And yes, Tomas has
an origin story: “My mother used to cook for us every
day, but when she couldn’t, my grandmother would,
and I helped her collect the fruit and vegetables at
the market. She taught me how to bake and I also
helped with preserving, pickling and fermenting.”
These techniques have all found a place on Turnips’
menu – in perfect pastry tarts filled with spring peas;
baby cucumber with smoked cream cheese and
kingfish; or lamb with Turkish morels and asparagus.
One dish is always on the menu – the “cheese-and
-onion” course, which is confit onion with Parmesan
sauce and a waffle, but “not just any onion, it’s the
Cévennes,” says Tomas emphatically. Even the bread
course – a miso brown loaf with fermented black
garlic butter – is far from ordinary. Served by an
otherwise mild-mannered waiter, he puts it down,
and then annnounces loudly: “That’s the best
butter you’ll ever taste! I bet my life on it!” And
he’s not wrong. Turnips, 43 Borough Market; restaurant.
turnipsboroughmarket.com, @turnipsborough

136 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


LON DON CA LLI N G

I went to London to research food ON E CH E F, I N weren’t compulsory because the school


trends – specifically to see whether PA R TI CU L A R , G OT was a democracy run by the students”.
farm-to-table had taken root, and it has THE RE BE FORE COVID. His parents couldn’t afford the school
– all the restaurants where I ate (and The prescient and aptly named Merlin lunches, which he says were “quite good”.
many more) now name their suppliers as Labron-Johnson opened his restaurant, And that is his origin story, there.
a matter of course, they all put emphasis Osip, in the town of Bruton in Somerset “I helped to cook the school lunches and
on the quality of their produce and there in early 2020, six weeks before the Covid I realised I enjoyed it and was good at it.
are green Michelin stars everywhere. But lockdown. This was after working as So, the cook invested a bit more time in
by far the biggest trend was that although a chef in London for five years, at teaching me. And when they saw I had
people don’t eat out as much as they did Portland in Fitzrovia, which opened to found something I was passionate about,
before the “cost of living crisis” landed, unexpected critical acclaim and, at 24, they really encouraged me. Without that
high-end restaurants have not suffered; made him the youngest UK chef to ever sort of support I wouldn’t have gotten
but they have evolved. People eat out receive a Michelin star. He describes the into cooking in the way that I did.”
less often, but they will still spend on an experience as a shock at the time and Six months after re-opening in 2020,
exceptional meal for a special occasion. definitely “overwhelming”. Osip was awarded a Michelin star.
It’s a shift that has hurt mid-range Labron-Johnson claims to have been “It was an objective this time,” he says,
and chain restaurants, but it has also given a “typical chef ”, a “naughty boy” who refreshingly, “because we really wanted
chefs in the most gruelling of kitchens was expelled from a number of schools to put the restaurant on the map in the
the chance for a gentler existence. before ending up at one where “lessons area and it allowed us to be more
confident in our pricing.”
The colours and textures of my meal
at Osip are imprinted on my memory.
An espuma of velvet-green baby marrow
soup, served with a golden deep-fried
baby marrow blossom; a perfect scallop
with a spear of cream-coloured asparagus,
white on white, brought together with
a single cured egg yolk and a scattering
of elderflower blossoms; a bright purple
taco with beetroot mole and crimson
leaves around a circle of smoked crème
fraîche. It is a tasting menu that is only
disclosed in full, at the end.
“The produce dictates the menus,”
says Labron-Johnson, who grows the
vegetables for both his restaurants (Osip
and The Old Pharmacy), on two farms he
set up during lockdown. “I am there all the
time because I am the link between the
farm and the chefs, making sure everyone
knows when things need to be harvested,
what needs to go into which restaurant,
on which menu. That’s my job.”
“At the moment we’re just trying to
get really good at growing things for the
two restaurants. It’s difficult in England,
but I would love to be self-sufficient in a
few years. That is the goal. That we won’t
need to buy any vegetables or fruit from
anyone else at any point in the year.”
If he could only choose five vegetable
varieties to grow for the rest of his life?
Opposite from top: The iconic “Onions. We grow really interesting
Borough Market in south London; varieties. And potatoes. I was very
Tomas Lidakevicius, head chef at inspired in Peru when I discovered
Turnips; seasonal veg transformed. they have 4 000 varieties of potatoes.
This page: Garden salad at The “We also grow an amazing cabbage
Old Pharmacy, sister restaurant called a Kalibos and it’s my favourite
to Osip in Bruton.

TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024 137


cabbage of all time – it’s like a pointed cabbage but it’s
purple and sweet and you can eat it raw but it’s incredible
roasted or cooked. And we have a variety of turnip
called the Tokyo turnip, a Japanese hybrid.
“And I’d have to say tomatoes because they are so
versatile. At the Old Pharmacy we literally just slice
them and put them on a plate with a little vinaigrette
and a few herbs … it’s great when nature can do the
work for you, right?”

“We just put the tomatoes on


a plate – it’s great when nature
can do the work for you, right?”
– Merlin Labron-Johnson, Osip

TWO MONTHS
AFTER MY TRIP
to London, I went to
a conference in Istanbul
and heard Santi Lastro
speaking on a panel with
three veteran UK chefs.
He was the most articulate
and charismatic – but I am
probably biased. I have
eaten his langoustine tacos.
The subject was what
high-end London Clockwise from left: Osip chef-
restaurants need to do to patron Merlin Labron-Johnson;
survive in competitive and the interior at Osip in Bruton,
Somerset; vegetable amuse-
difficult times: “Trends
bouches at Osip.
come and go,” Santi said,
“We want to be seen as an
institution, as though we
have always been there.”
That’s when I realised
I hadn’t found any new
trends in London, but I’d
found a different kind of
inspiration. These chefs all
had similar philosophies –
a shared pursuit of excellence, the same respect for
ethical sourcing, exceptional produce and a deep desire
to do justice to their respective countries, each with their
own particular origin story and path to success.
But, more importantly, in every case their very
specific passions were so infectious, their stories so
evocative, that I could taste them in their food. And that
ability – to translate your own, very personal inspiration
into something that can be shared with others is not
a trend – that is a gift. W

BiBi, bibirestaurants.com, @bibi_ldn; KOL, kolrestaurant.com,


@kol.restaurant; Lisboeta, lisboeta.co.uk, @lisboeta.london;
Osip, osiprestaurant.com, @osip.restaurant

138 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


LON DON CA LLI N G

WHERE TO STAY
INHABIT QUEENS GARDENS

PHOTOGRAPHS REBECCA DICKINSON AND CHARLIE MCKAY KOL LOTUS INTERNATIONAL TURNIPS; CRAB COMMUNICATIONS BIBI; EIGHTYFOUR LISBOETA; M PEACH AND CO OSIP; SCOUT PR INHABIT QUEENS GARDENS
A body-mind reset when you need it, is just
a stone’s throw from Paddington and everywhere
you want to eat in London
Travel isn’t glamorous, and anyone who says
it is has never flown economy class. And
they have definitely never had their British
Airways Airbus delayed for hours on the
runway at OR Tambo before hearing: “One
of the crew has been taken ill”. The crew
member was the captain and the flight
was cancelled, which meant getting 450
passengers off the plane and shuttled to
various accommodations in the middle
of the night. To say it was one of the
worst travel experiences of my life is an
understatement. When we eventually did
depart, I’d missed my interview with iconic
chef Ruth Rogers CBE and my first night
at Inhabit Queens Gardens in Bayswater.
Fortunately, after 45 unpleasant hours of
travelling, Inhabit Queens Gardens is exactly
where you want to end up. Billed as a
“restorative, environmentally and socially
conscious place to stay”, walking into this
oasis of Scandi-design calm felt less like
arriving at a typical London hotel and more
like a private residence. I honestly felt like
I was home. Or, at least, the home I feel
I deserve.
From the serenity of my room, I was within
walking distance of Paddington Station
and within easy access of all the restaurants
I planned to visit – in Mayfair, Fitzrovia and
Marylebone. It is, quite simply, the perfect
London address, without the prohibitive
price tag (rooms start at £170 a night).
But wait, there’s more. “Inhale at Inhabit”,
their wellness centre, offers a treatment suite,
fitness centre and yoga studio, for starters,
and their on-site restaurant is a collaboration
with the award-wining Devon health
retreat, Yeotown. The restaurant serves a
Californian-inspired, meat-free menu, which
naturally means the ultimate avocado-smash
toast with poached eggs (my recovery
choice after eating airport food for two
days), plus feel-good dishes including
blue spirulina pancakes and the signature
“Bounce back” burger. The dinner menu
does include fish and, if all of this wasn’t
enough of a recommendation, the
sommelier is a vocal fan of South African
wines. British Airways owes me at least
a week’s stay. I feel it’s only fair.
1–2 Queens Gardens, queensgardens.inhabithotels.
com, @inhabit_hotels

140 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


INDEX
STARTERS AND LIGHT MEALS Floral laminated pasta 65 Coffee flan cake 84
Baby marrow falafel with minted yoghurt Fynbos-smoked mussels with sea lettuce Coffee spekkoek 86
and pomegranate 24 chimichurri 68 Coffee zabaglione 87
Fried halloumi with ClemenGold-and-date Lamb knuckle-and-potato Irish stew-style Gooey-centred chocolate tart with salted
syrup and 15-minute lavash 22 soup 115 lemon sabayon 80
Kankankan cauliflower fritters with yoghurt- Mini beef frikkadel-and-butter bean tagine Gluten-free almond and num-num
and-mayo sauce 106 soup with date-and-parsley salsa 118 berry cake with amasi cream and rose
Pork rillettes with candied prunes and One-pot wonder creamy spinach-and- pelargonium peaches 65
chicken liver pâté 72 chicken Florentine 24 Mille-feuille with café crème patissiere 80
Roasted herby tomatoes with confetti bush Pepe chicken 106 Ricotta panna cotta with coffee syrup 86
ricotta 65 Potage de mer with smoky roast pepper Sierra Leonean-style rich cake 108
Szechuan pepper crispy tofu with shiitake aïoli 77
mushroom noodles and smashed Rack of lamb with Kankankan crust and
cucumbers 26 heritage tomato salad 108 SIDE SERVINGS
Tomato soup with a protein punch 52 Roast chicken with caper paste and Paloise Burnt corn emulsion 96
Wild sage-and-mushroom arancini with sauce 77 Carrot-and-orange tahini 96
wild garlic aïoli 66 Sambar-style Indian fish broth with yoghurt- Duck fat aïoli with thyme 96
baked brinjals 118 Egusi seed butter 96
Smoked mackerel with parsley velouté and Kankankan spice mix 111
MAIN MEALS grilled asparagus 78
Beef rendang curry with roast pumpkin 22 Pineapple rind hot sauce 99
Thai green curry pork noodle soup with
Boeuf bourguignon 77 roasted Brussels sprouts and tamarind Pommes aligot 72
Canard au vin pie 78 dressing 120 Ripe banana peel chutney 100
Caramelised apple and roasted red Vegetable-and-mushroom wonton soup Spiced peanuts 111
cabbage with salty pork chops and currant 117 Stone fruit ketchup 96
dressing 26 Sweet potato leaf chimichurri 99
Creamy chipotle-and-sweet potato soup DESSERTS AND BAKING West African pepper blend 111
with polenta cake and chorizo 116
Choux buns with craquelin and coffee
Cured and blow-torched mackerel with cream 88
hibiscus-and-ginger sauce 106 BEVERAGES
Créme brûleé doughnuts 90
Fire-roasted tomato-and-chicken soup with The breakfast martini 42
baby marrow fries 116 Coffee cake 84
The plum sour 42
NUTRITION FIRST, PLEASE
AT WOOLIES, WE LIKE TO THINK THAT IF YOUR BEST FRIEND COULD TALK,
THEY’D ASK FOR NUTRITION FIRST DOG FOOD. EXCLUSIVE TO WOOLWORTHS,
NUTRITION FIRST HAS BEEN SCIENTIFICALLY FORMULATED, WITH LIMITED
INGREDIENTS, TO GIVE YOUR DOG COMPLETE, BALANCED NUTRITION IN
EVERY LIFE STAGE, WHETHER YOU COUNT IN HUMAN OR DOG YEARS.

Strong bones, Healthy skin, Maize, soya & Immune Easy to


healthy joints shiny coat gluten free defence digest

IN STORE | ONLINE | APP


Sadie’s chocolate-
chip cookies

This might just be


the cutest video
we’ve ever made.
Supermom
Saadiyah
Hendricks
of Sadie's Bubble
of Yum brought
her two eldest
daughters to the
studio to help
make these
outrageously good

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS RECIPE SAADIYAH HENDRICKS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG
chocolate-chip
cookies for
Mother’s Day.
Jam-packed with
white choc chips,
shards of dark
chocolate and
a joy-inducing
quantity of
sprinkles, they also
boast the very
best of textures –
crunchy on the
outside, soft
and fudgy in the
middle. Bake them
at your peril!

Catch
this video
on TASTE’s
social channels
in May.

144 TASTE MAY/JUNE 2024


RIDE
WITH
THE G
& SAVE

Are You
a Student?
Gautrain is offering students a 25% discount on
Gautrain trips between any two stations of their
choice. Register on myGautrain.co.za and
follow the steps bellow.

STEP

02
STEP
STEP Student Verification 03
01 via varsityvibe
As part of the registration process,
student verification is done through
Varsity Vibe.

You will automatically be


directed to the verification Time to Collect
process via the Your Card
Gautrain website.
Once the registration process
Register on has been completed, a
mygautrain.co.za pop-up confirmation will
appear; you can then
When you are on the collect your Gautrain
homepage, click Student Card at a
“Events and Gautrain station
Promotions” then ticket office the
click “View following day.
Event”.

Should you run into any For Gautrain queries: For Varsity Vibe queries:
challenges during your [email protected] or [email protected] or
registration process, 0800-GAUTRAIN (Toll-Free) 081-696-1623
please contact us
LAST WORD FRANSCHHOEK LOUNGE/BAR AREA

BEYOND BOUTIQUE®

Experience the best of South Africa with Last Word Intimate Hotels and Safari Camps: Constantia, Franschhoek, and
Long Beach in magnificent Cape Town offer urban tranquillity, culinary paradise, and beachfront bliss. Authentic Big 5 safaris
at Kitara, and family-friendly wildlife adventures in Madikwe promise unforgettable memories. Lovely Places, staffed
and frequented by Lovely People, each location offers a unique piece of South Africa’s heart and soul.
WW W.O NEHU ND RED PER CENT.CO.ZA

KITARA MADIKWE LONG BEACH CONSTANTIA FRANSCHHOEK

Reservations: 27 (0) 21 794 6561 | Email: [email protected]

www.thelastword.co.za

You might also like