UNIT - 1

Knitting Definition :
 Knitting is a method for production of textile fabrics by interlacing yarn loops with
loops of the same or other yarns. It is used to create many types of garments.
Knitting may be done by hand or by machine.

 Knitting is a process of using long needles to interlink or knot a series of loops

made by one continuous thread. Each loop or knot connects to another one, and
when enough loops have been made, the result is a flat piece of material called a
textile.

 Knitted fabrics are made from interlocking loops of yarn. There are two main types
of knitting: weft knits and warp knits. In weft knitting, loops are linked across the
width, while in warp knitting loops are linked vertically.

Classification of Knitting

 Knitting is divided into two main groups as warp and weft knitting. Warp knitted fab-
rics are produced by a series of yarn forming loops in the lengthwise direction of the
fabric.
 Weft knitted fabrics is produced when one continuous yarn forms the loops in the
crosswise directions.
 The most common types of warp knitt fabrics are Tricot knit, Raschel, Milanese and
Simples knit. The different kinds of weft knits are plain, purl and rib. Both weft and
warp knitting can be incorporated in the jacquard mechanism to produce fancy knitted
fabrics.
Knitting History

Knitting is a technique of producing fabric from a strand of yarn or wool. Unlike weaving,
knitting does not require a loom or other large equipment, making it a valuable technique for
nomadic and non-agrarian peoples.

The oldest knitted artifacts are socks from Egypt, dating from the 11th century They are a
very fine gauge, done with complex colourwork and some have a short row heel, which
necessitates the purl stitch. These complexities suggest that knitting is even older than the
archeological record can prove.

Earlier pieces having a knitted or crocheted appearance have been shown to be made with
other techniques, such as Nålebinding, a technique of making fabric by creating multiple
loops with a single needle and thread, much like sewing. Some artefacts have a structure so
similar to knitting, for example, 3rd-5th century CE Romano-Egyptian toe-socks, that it is
thought the "Coptic stitch" of nalbinding is the forerunner to knitting.
Difference between knitting and weaving :

S.NO WEAVING KNITTING

1 Weaving is defined as the On the other hand, Knitting is defined as
process of creating a fabric the process through which the yarn is used
through the interlacing of in creating a textile/ fabric.
threads.
2 The treads in weaving move The threads in knitting are parallel to one
perpendicular to one another. another.
3 Weaves have a lower stretch Knits have a higher stretch ability.
ability.
4 The fabric is thin in weaving. The fabric becomes thick after knitting.
5 There are two kinds of threads There are two kinds of knits used, i.e.,
used in weaving, i.e., warp and coarse (horizontal loops) and wales (vertical
weft. loops).
6 Light weight clothes are Thick woolen clothes are prepared through
prepared through weaving. knitting.
7 Since the fabric prepared is Knitting gives high thermal assistance as the
light, there is no thermal clothes are thick.
assistance in clothes.
8 The sizing of the threads is There is no need for sizing in knitting.
important to save the weave
from damage.
9 Two sets of yarns are required Only one set of yarn is required in knitting.
in weaving.
10 The production cost of The production cost of knitting is low.
weaving is high.
11 There is higher capital There is lower capital investment.
investment.
12 There is less modification in Design and fabric are easily modified in
weaving. knitting.
13 The construction of fabric in There is a loose construction of fabric in
weaving is compact. knitting.
14 Weaving is more durable. Knitting is less durable.
15 Examples: Examples:

 Denim  Sweaters
 Canvas  Terry
 Chambray  Dresses
 Pique
Characteristics of knitted goods

Knitted fabric refers to a fabric formed by bending yarn into loops with knitting needles and
intersecting with each other. It is divided into warp knitted fabric and weft knitted fabric.
Knitted fabrics have the characteristics of soft texture, moisture absorption, breathability,
perspiration and warmth, etc. Most of them have excellent elasticity and extensibility.
Compared with woven fabric, it has the characteristics of high output and suitable for small
batch production. Knitted garments are comfortable to wear, fit and fit, have no sense of
restraint, and can fully reflect the curves of the human body.

Knitted fabrics have the characteristics of soft texture, moisture absorption, breathability,
perspiration and warmth, etc. Most of them have excellent elasticity and extensibility.
Compared with woven fabric, it has the characteristics of high output and suitable for small
batch production. Knitted garments are comfortable to wear, fit and fit, have no sense of
restraint, and can fully reflect the curves of the human body.
 UNIT -II

Principles of knitting

 The term knitting is used to describe a textile structure composed of intermeshing

loops of yarn.

 There are two types of knitted loop constructions currently utilised in fashion (weft

and warp).

 The first method; weft knitting produces the type of structures commonly associated

with hand pin knitting, however, for commercial applications weft knitting is

conducted by a knitting machine.

 The fundamental difference between hand and machine knitting is that every knitted

loop produced by a knitting machine has its own individual knitting needle rather than

the two pins used in hand knitting (were all the stitches are progressively moved

horizontally from one needle to another during the knitting process).

 Weft knitted structures are easily recognised by the length of yarn forming the knitted

loop running continually in a horizontal direction .

 The types of knitted structure produced are most common in T-shirt fabrics and

knitted outerwear.

 The second method of knitted fabric construction is warp; in contrast to weft knitting

many individual ends of yarns are running in a vertical direction throughout the

knitted structure. This method of construction generally creates a more stable textile

and is largely associated with lace, sports and technical applications

Knitting technology

 The intermeshing loop shapes that form the knitted structures are referred to

technically awales and courses (stitches and rows).

 The wales refer to the number of stitches in the knitted swatch, counting them

consecutively across the horizontal axis.

 The courses refer to the number of wales along the vertical axis (beginning counting

at the bottom and working upwards to the end last knitted), the greater the amount of

courses the longer the knitted swatch becomes.

 The knitted loop dimensions can be increased or decreased in size by adding or

reducing the amount of yarn fed into the loop shape, this is termed altering the stitch

length.

 There is a limit regarding the stitch dimensions, which is strongly related to the yarn

diameter, needle size and the knitting machines needle spacing (the distance in-

between each needle).

 In hand knitting the size of the yarn diameter leads to the selection of the correct

needle size hence, thin yarns are knitted using knitting needles of a small diameter. In

machine knitting a similar approach is adopted.

 The hook of the needle becomes larger and the spacing inbetween each needle

increases for chunky gauge knitwear and reduces for fine gauge fabric.

 When referring to modern knitting machinery the needle spacing is represented by a

number. This number corresponds to the number of needles per inch (2.5 cm). Hence,

a 2.5 gauge-knitting machine has two and a half needles in every inch (2.5 cm) and

therefore produces a chunky knitted fabric, alternatively an 18 gauge machine has 18

needles per inch (2.5 cm) thus, producing a fine lightweight fabric.
knitting machine

 A knitting machine is a device used to create knitted fabrics in a semi or fully

automated fashion.
 There are numerous types of knitting machines, ranging from simple spool or board
templates with no moving parts to highly complex mechanisms controlled by
electronics.
 All, however, produce various types of knitted fabrics, usually either flat or tubular,
and of varying degrees of complexity.
 Pattern stitches can be selected by hand manipulation of the needles, push-buttons and
dials, mechanical punch cards, or electronic pattern reading devices and computers.

Process
Early flat bed stocking frames had low carbon steel bearded needles where the tips were
reflexed and could be depressed onto a hollow closing the loop. The needles were supported
on a needle bar (bed) that passed back and forth, to and from the operator. The beards were
simultaneously depressed by a presser bar.

1. The needle bar goes forward- the open needles clear the web
2. The weft thread is laid on the needles
3. The weft thread falls loosely
4. The needle bar draws back, the weft is pulled in the open needles
5. The needle bar draws back, the presser bar drops, the needle loops close and the weft
is drawn back through the web
6. The needles open, a new row has been added to the web which drops under gravity

This basic process can still be recognised in all machines, but it has been refined as new
technologies have become available.

Parts of Knitting Machine

A circular knitting machine has different external parts to run the machine effectively.
These parts are so important that without them it is impossible to run a machine. These parts
also help to produce quality product an dincrease efficiency of the machine.

Objects
 To know about different parts
 To know the necessity of these parts on knitting machine
 Yo run the machine efficiently with the help of these part
Name of the parts :

 Needle detector
 Spreader
 Oiling system/Lubrication system
 Air supply system
 Air gun

Oiling/Lubrication system:

 Lubrication means to lubricate different metal parts to run the machine perfectly.
 The perfect lubrication of the knitting head is essential for an efficient knittin
gprocess. Lubrication is usually guaranteed by electronic atomizer pumps.

Functions:

 To reduce the heat generation

 To reduce friction in metal
 To reduce corrosion.
 To run the needles and sinkers smoothly on correspondingtrack

Spreader:
 Circular knitting machines pose some problems as regards the winding of thefabric,
as the fabric itself is delivered in tubular form and must be spread flat priorto
winding.
 The spreading of the tubular fabric generates some distortionsbecause of the different
distances between the various zones of the tubular fabricemerging from the take-
down system and the same zones wound on the fabricroll.
 These differences reflect into uneven winding tensions (the tension is lowerin the
fabric centre and higher at its edges).
To avoid these problems, a metal frame called “Spreader” has been incorporated
before the fabric winding system. The spreader increases the width of the tubularfabric by
giving it an almost circular shape, equalizing the distances between the various zones of the
fabric and the nip line of the winding system.
Functions:
 To apply uniform tension to the fabric

 To make the knock over of needles perfectly by applying tension

 To make the knot in fabric minimum

 To make stripe effect perfectly in yarn dyed fabric

Air supply system/Suction system:
These systems prevents from the dust / lint or foreign material in the workingrange and the
yarn feeding area. Suction and blowing systems usually incorporatea blower in the knitting
range and swiveling fans in several points where the yarnpasses.

Functions:
 To prevent the working range from dust/lint
 To blow away the foreign materials from knitting zone
 To keep the machine clean


Needle detector :

 Needle detector is a special device placed in knitting machine to detect broken

needles and closed laces which may occur during fabric and mesh faults.
 Needle detectors are present at regular interval in circular knitting machine.
 When a needle detector finds any broken or closed needle it transfers a signal to
the controlling system of the machine and thus the machine is immediately
stopped running

Functions:
 To detect broken and closed lace needles
 To stop the machine immediately when needle breaks

Air gun:
It is an external device which is used to supply air in different position of theknitting machine and
also to pass the yarn from creel tube to feeder. It is an airgun which delivers air at high pressure.

Functions:
 To supply air easily by hand when needed
 To pass the yarn into the creel tube

TYPES OF NEEDLE:

In all knitting machines, the main element for the intermeshing of loops is ‘the needle.’
Earlier straight pins were used in hand-knitting to kink the yarn to form a circle and
intermesh the new loop through the old one. When the machine was developed in 1589 by
William Lee, ‘a spring beard needle’ was used. Later on, in 1847, ‘a latch needle’ was
created, and in the 20th century, ‘a compound needle’ was developed. However, the principle
of knitting remained unaltered.
The knitted fabric’s quality depends mainly on the effectiveness and accuracy of the loop-
forming element, such as a needle. Minor variations in needle manufacture can lead to the
irregular fabric. The surface of it should be highly polished, allowing the yarn and the loop to
slide freely. It should have high strength and toughness to give durability. It should also
perform several million knitting actions without fault. There are mainly three types of needles
used:

 The spring beards

 The latch
 The compound needle

The Spring Beard Needle

This is most commonly used on a tricot warp knitting machine. The main parts are:

The head

The hooked portion of the stem of the needle to draw the new yarn, form a loop and
intermesh through the old loop.
The Beard

The continuation of the hooked portion which has a good springiness and the shape of a beard
on a chain.

The Eye

A groove cut in the stem to receive the pointed tip of the beard when it is pressed in by the
pressure so that the new loop is entrapped.

The Stem

Around which the loop is formed and fabric is heald with the last loop on it.

The butt

Is bent for location in the machine or is cast with other needles in a metal lead.

The beard needle was the needle used in the first knitting machine known as the ‘stoking
frame.’ The invention of the beard needle in 1589 is attributed to Rev William Lee. It is a
single unit but external assistance needed to close the beard. It does not require a latch and
riveting of the latch to the needle. It is therefore finer in its cross-section and more needles in
a unit space can, therefore, be accommodated. Hence a finer gauge of the machine can be
achieved. (The term ‘gauge’ is the designation of the ‘number of needles per inch,’ in the
case of weft knitting and tricot warp knitting and it is the designation of ‘needles per two
inches’ of the needle bed in the case of Rasel warp knitting).
The Latch Needle

 It consists of a hooked portion at the top, with a latch or spoon riveted at a certain
distance from the head of the needle.
 The latch needle forms a stitch with a simple up and down movement. They are given
individual movements, sliding in grooves, called the ‘tricks’ of the cylinder.
 The latch can swing freely. The stem or shank is a straight portion of the needle with a
protruding butt, some distance from the end of the needle.
 The reciprocating movement to the needle in the vertical direction is given through
this butt part of the needle.
 Latch needles are mainly used in circular weft knitting machines for single knit and
double knit fabrics.
 They are also used for the purl fabrics and in V-bed and flatbed machines and on
Raschel warp-knitting machines.
 These needles are self-acting, in that, they require only a previous loop on the stem
and do not require any outside agency to close the hook.
 The swinging latch has a cup at the end to fit the hook in the groove when the latch is
closed.
 The latch is riveted to the stem. Because of these facts, the total thickness or the
space occupied by a latch needle cannot be reduced beyond the capacity of the
mechanical means of manufacturing.
 Hence these needles are coarser in dimensions than the spring beard needles, with the
result that the machines with finer gauges use spring beard needles. The latch needles
are expensive because of the assembly of the needle and latch.
Compound needle

Compound needles form the loop with the help of a closer that opens and closes the
needle hook. The movement of the closer is control- led via a separate cam track. Groz-
Beckert has been manufacturing compound needles for the textile industry for many decades.

Knitted loop structure :

 Knitted structure consists of interconnected loops which usually results in a very
stretchy fabric.
 This method requires more flexible conductive yarns than any other structures
because the yarn is highly curved to form a loop. Formed with loops of a long
continuous yarn entangled each other.
 The knitted loop structure may not always be noticeable because of the effect of
structural fineness, fabric distortion, additional pattern threads or the masking effect
of finishing processes.
 However, unless the intermeshing of the loops is securely achieved by the needles
receiving new loops of yarn into their hooks before the old loops are ‘cast-off’, and
the ground structure is not fractured during finishing or wear, a breakdown or
separation of the structure will result.
 The properties of a knitted structure are largely determined by the interdependence of
each stitch to its neighbours on either side and above and below it.
 Knitted loops are arranged in rows, roughly equivalent to the weft and warp of woven
structures. These are termed ‘courses’ and ‘wales’ respectively.
 UNIT -III
WEFT KNITTING

A weft knitted fabric contains horizontal / parallel row of courses of yarn are knitted. It
requires just a single yarn to form a fabric but more number of yarns is fed with respect to
machine capacity. Weft knitted fabrics is used widely in the clothing industry for example
hosiery, sweaters, foundation garments and active wear. The most important benefit of weft
knitted fabric is its construction techniques. The fabric is capability to stretch and recover
thus match to body shape. To achieve a desired fabric performance properties, the selection
of suitable fibers and yarns are taken on to consideration.

CLASSIFICATION OF WEFT KNITTING

The following points are taken consideration in the weft knitting classification based on the
different approaches.

Machine frame and needle bed arrangement

 Circular knitting
 Flat knitting

Number of needle bed

 Single jersey
 Double jersey

End product

 Fabric machine
 Garment machine

Basic fabric structure

 Single jersey or plain

 Rib
 Interlock
 Purl

Type of needle used

• By using latch needle

1. Circular knitting

2. Flat bed knitting

• By using spring bearded needle

1. Circular knitting

2. Straight bar knitting

Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine

In single jersey circular knitting machine, the needles are placed in a vertical groove on the
surface of the cylinder. The cylinder needle buts are protruding into a cam track which is
provides reciprocating movement to the needles. The machine function can be divided into
different zone i.e. creel zone, knitting zone and take down zone. The creel zone consists of
creels, thread guide, tensioner, stop motion, feeders and yarn monitoring devices. The
knitting zone consists of primary and secondary knitting elements. The take down zone has
spreader and take up mechanism. The supply package cone is converted into knitted fabric
and produced in tube form.Three stronger cast iron legs are provided to hold all the parts and
components of knitting machine and it anchor on the floor. A heavy duty motor is used to
drive the cylinder and the necessary parts of a knitting machine.
Rib Knitting Machine
Rib knitted fabric has a vertical cord like appearance for the reason that loops in wales
direction form face loop and reverse alternatively or vice-versa. In rib knitted fabric
manufacturing, two sets of needles are alternately used and it arranged in a set or gaited
between each other. In rib gaiting, the needles are arrangements in the cylinder are between
the needles of the dial it shown in figure

The knitting action:

 Clearing. The cylinder needles and dial needles move to clear the old loops formed in
the earlier cycle.
 Yarn Feeding. The needles are reserved and the open latches cover the old loops, new
yarn is supplied into the needle hooks portion.
 Knocking-over. The needles are reserved in action the old loops are knocking over
and the fresh loops are hanged through them.

Rib structure

 Rib knitted structure is one of the double jersey knitted fabrics manufactured with
alternate face wales and back wales or vice-versa by means of cylinder and dial.
 In figure 10 shows, that the fabric produced with face loop and back loop alternatively
in wales direction shows vertical stripped appearance on either side of fabric.
 Because of the same appearance on face and back of the fabric, it is a reversible
knitted structure.
 1×1, 2×2, 3×3 are called balanced rib knitted structures. Unbalanced rib structure can
be produced with small modification in knitting needle lifting action.
Interlock structure

 Interlock knitted structure can be produced by a special arrangement in the knitting

needle and knitting action. It was initially derived from rib knitted structure.
 In figure 11, ‘A’ represent first 1×1 rib structure and ‘B’ shows the second 1×1 rib
structure. With meshing of two 1 x 1 rib knitted structure produces regular interlock
structure.
 By hiding the look of the reverse loops through knitting process, each side of the
fabric shows only face loop.

Interlock structure

Purl structure

 Purl is a special kind of structure producing special knitting machine. Two cylinder
knitting machine is used with two hook end needs. Latch needle is the most
convenient double-ended needle for the manufacturing of purl structure.
 Loops are formed by alternate face courses and back courses or vice-versa by means
of two cylinders
Pique

Pique is a durable cotton knit fabric covered with a tiny, textured pattern. The
cross-tuck knit construction creates a cellular effect with a unique, subtle texture. The
term pique is also used for a woven fabric that is covered with a tiny, textured pattern
which makes it appear quilted.

KNITTING ELEMENTS

A knitting machine is an equipment for converting yarn into knitted loop structures by means
of mechanical moving parts either manual or power operated. These mechanical or electro
mechanical parts are called as knitting elements to convert yarn into knitted fabric. Circular
knitting machines elements are possibly divided into:

 Primary knitting elements

 Secondary knitting elements
The primary knitting elements are actually forming the stitches by means of needles and
sinkers. The secondary knitting elements are activating the needles and sinkers. Such knitting
elements are cylinder, dial, cams, and pattern wheels. Expect dial, remaining all the knitting
elements are common to all kind of weft knitting machine and dial is used only in double
jersey knitting machine.

Types and functions

Compared to woven fabric, weft-knitted fabrics are essentially used for their soothing texture,
extensibility, durability, and dimensional stability. They are considered most suitable for
crafting a wide range of athleisure pieces and accessories, including underwear, T-shirts,
sportswear, baby clothes, pyjamas, knitwear, etc.

With the fabric structure modification and altering needle type and movement, great design
possibilities can be achieved. Four basic types of weft-knitted structures are as under

Our Basic Types of Wefts Knitted Structures:

 1. Plain Knit or Single knit
A Plain knit structure is the most basic weft-knitted structure. It is produced using one
linear array of needles with all the loops intermeshed in the same direction.

Features
● Thin and soft fabric.
● Rolls at the edges.
● The fabric is unbalanced and has a different appearance on the front and backside.
● Extensible in both lateral and longitudinal directions.
● Special finishes counteract curling and improve stability.

Application
● Summer tops.
● Polo T-shirts (men's and ladies')
● Undergarments

2. Rib knit or double jersey

Rib knit is produced by knitting two-needle systems, placed opposite, and meshing the
stitches in adjacent wales in opposite directions. As such, these fabrics are also known as
double jersey fabrics.

Features
● Do not curl at their edges
● Reversible fabric
● Thicker than jersey knits
● Longitudinal extensibility is similar to that of a simple knitted structure.
● Very stable

Application
● Collars and cuffs
● Necklines
● Bottom edges of sweaters
● Double knits jackets
● Knit hats

3. Purl knit
In Purl knit fabric, the stitches are meshed in adjacent courses in opposite directions either by
using special latch needles with two-needle hooks or by transferring the fabric from bed to
bed between each knitting action.

Features
● High longitudinal extensibility
● No tendency to curl
● Both sides appear similar
● Expensive
● Stretches out of shape easily
● Thicker than jersey knits

Application
● Infants and children's wear
● Sweaters
● Scarves

4. Interlock Knit
A combination of two rib-knitted structures, the Interlock structure gives little or no room for
the wales or courses to close. Therefore, the interlock fabrics show relatively poor stretch
properties in both directions.

Features
● The front and back of the fabric are the same as the front of the single-sided fabric
● Stable fabric that does not change shape
● Thicker than the single-sided fabric
● Lengthwise and width wise extensibility is moderate.
● Expensive fabric

Application
● Used in spring and autumn tops
● Pants
● Sports suits
● Dresses
● Skirt
 UNIT -IV

Warp knitting definition

Warp knitting is defined as a loop-forming process in which the yarn is fed into the knitting
zone, parallel to the fabric selvage. It forms vertical loops in one course and then moves
diagonally to knit the next course. Thus the yarns zigzag from side to side along the length of
the fabric. Each stitch in a course is made by many different yarns. Each stitch in one wale is
made by several different yarns.

Lapping variations

lapping is a machining process in which two surfaces are rubbed together with an abrasive
between them, by hand movement or using a machine.

Lapping often follows other subtractive processes with more aggressive material removal as a
first step, such as milling and/or grinding.

Lapping can take two forms. The first type of lapping (traditionally often called grinding),
involves rubbing a brittle material such as glass against a surface such as iron or glass itself
(also known as the "lap" or grinding tool) with an abrasive such as aluminium oxide,
jeweller's rouge, optician's rouge, emery, silicon carbide, diamond, etc., between them. This
produces microscopic conchoidal fractures as the abrasive rolls about between the two
surfaces and removes material from both.

The other form of lapping involves a softer material such as pitch or a ceramic for the lap,
which is "charged" with the abrasive. The lap is then used to cut a harder material—the work
piece. The abrasive embeds within the softer material, which holds it and permits it to score
across and cut the harder material. Taken to a finer limit, this will produce a polished surface
such as with a polishing cloth on an automobile, or a polishing cloth or polishing pitch upon
glass or steel.

Taken to the ultimate limit, with the aid of accurate interferometry and specialized polishing
machines or skilled hand polishing, lens makers can produce surfaces that are flat to better
than 30 Nano meters. This is one twentieth of the wavelength of light from the commonly
used 632.8 nm helium neon laser light source. Surfaces this flat can be molecularly bonded
(optically contacted) by bringing them together under the right conditions. (This is not the
same as the wringing effect of Johansson blocks, although it is similar).

TRICOT
Warp knitting machine is one kind of flatbed machine. This machine produces the knitted loops in
wales direction. There are two major classes of warp knitting machine. They are the ‘Tricot’ & the
‘Raschel’ warp knitting machine. The ‘Tricot’ warp knitting machine is also termed as automatic
warp knitting of its function.
Objectives:

1. To know about the yarn to fabric path diagram of Tricot warp knitting machine.
2. To know about the name of the different parts of the machine.
3. To know about the functions of these parts.
4. To know operational process of tricot warp knitting machine.

Main parts of the machine:

1. Compound needle.
2. Pattern chain
3. Needle bar
4. Pattern drum
5. Guide bar
6. Main shaft
7. Sinker & sinker bar
8. Intermediate shaft
9. Sliding latch
10. Let-off mechanism
11. Sliding latch bar
12. Take-up mechanism
13. Comb
14. Machine A/C
15. Cloth roller
 16. Toothed belt/Timing belt
17. Link
18. Warp beam
19. Rocker shaft
20. Bottom Beam

MACHINE Description:

Compound needle is used in the machine. With the help of the pattern drum and the chain
link the patterning is done. The gears are merged in oil bath for smooth operation. There are
two back beam for yarn supply. The yarns come through guide bar and through the needle the
cloth is take down by cloth roller.

Yarn to fabric path diagram of Tricot warp knitting machine:

Working Principle (function of different parts):

1. Compound needle: In Tricot warp knitting machine compound needle is used. To form
loop and produce the fabric is the main function of the needle.

2. Needle bar: A needle bar is used in this machine. The main function of it is to hold the
needles together and helps the needles to move unison while loop forming.

3. Guide bar: Guide bar is used in this machine to guide the yarn properly to the needle. It
feeds the yarn around the needle and controls the rate of warp feed from the warp beam by
making lapping movement.
4. Sinker and Sinker bar: In the tricot warp knitting machine tricot sinker is used to hold
down the loops produced by the needles. The sinker bar keeps the sinkers together to move
unison while knitting. The main function of the sinker is to hold down, knock over and
supporting the fabric loops.

5. Sliding latch: In warp knitting machine compound needles are used. A sliding latch is
used here to close the hook while knitting.

6. Sliding latch bar: In warp knitting machine the sliding latches remain unison. The latch
bar keeps the latches together and helps it to move unison while knitting.

7. Cloth roller: The produced fabric is wound on the cloth roller.

8. Let-off mechanism: The process of releasing the warp yarns according to the requirement
of the machine and speed of cloth roller is the main function of let-off mechanism.

9. Take up mechanism: It helps the produced fabric to wound on the cloth roller in proper
tension. There are 3 take-up r/r in this machine. It also gives proper tension to the warp sheet
and controls the speed of warp beam.

10. Link: In the warp knitting machine the link is used to make design in the knitted fabric.
The different links used here has different thickness and thus it helps to produce design.

11. Pattern chain: The pattern chain is the chain of links joined with each other. The pattern
chain helps the machine to produce design.

12. Pattern drum: It is a drum, which gives motion to the pattern chain. There are groove on
it and the pattern chain is placed on it. It gets motion from the machine driving motor through
gearing.

13. Comb: In this warp knitting machine the comb is used to separate the warp yarns coming
from the warp beam. It works as the reeds of the weaving machine and also controls the
fabric width.

14. Warp beam: In this warp knitting machine warp beam is used to supply the warp yarns
parallely. There are 8-warp beam in this machine. 4 beam are on the upper side and 4 are to
the downside. These beams are not so big as the weavers beam.

15. Machine A/C: The machine a/c is one kind of cooling device, which keeps the machine
parts and the motor from over heating and damage while running continuously.

16. Main shaft: The main shaft of this machine gives the machine motion from the motor.

17. Lubrication: The machine has automatic lubrication system.

18. Controlling unit: The controlling unit is used to control the machine easily. It has a
digital control unit.

19. Toothed belt: In this machine the toothed belts are used to transfer motion without any
slippage.
Raschel

Introduction:
There are various types of knitting machine. Warp knitting machines are categorized on the
basis of construction of different machine parts and their operations. Tricot and Raschel are
two main categories of machine.

Main Features of the Raschel Warp Knitting Machine:

Raschel warp knitting machines have the following important features:
1.Raschel machines used latch needles together with a latch wire or blade.

2. Raschel machines have a gauge expressed in needles per two inches (5cm) so that for
example, a 36 gauge Raschel will have 18 needles per inch.

3. Their chain links are usually numbered in even numbers 0, 2, 4, 6, 8 etc., generally with
two links per course.

4. Raschel sinkers only perform the function of holding down the loops whilst the needles
rise.

5. Raschel sinkers are not joined together by a lead across their ends nearest to the needle bar
so they can move away to wards the back of the machine for the rest of the knitting cycle.

6. The needle trick-plate verge acts as a fabric support ledge and knock-over surface.

7. The fabric is drawn downwards from the needles almost parallel to the needle bar at an
angle of 120 to 160 degrees by a series of take-down rollers.

8. The warp beams are arranged above the needle bar centred over the rocker shaft so that
warp sheets pass down to the guide bars on either side of it.

9. The beams are placed above the machine so it is accessible at the front for fabric inspection
and at the back for mechanical attention to the knitting elements.

10. The guide bars are threaded commencing with the middle bars and working out wards
from either side of the rocker shaft.

11. The guide bars are numbered from the front of the machine.

12. With the Raschel arrangement there is accommodation for at least four 32 inch diameter
beams or large numbers of small diameter pattern beams.

13. The accessibility of the Raschel machine, its simple knitting action and its strong and
efficient take-down tension makes it particularly suitable for the production of coarse-gauge
openwork structures employing pillar stitch and inlay lapping variations and partly-threaded
guide bars which are difficult to knit and hold down with the tricot arrangement of sinkers.

14. Additional warp threads may be supplied at the selvedges to ensure that these needles knit
fabric, otherwise a progressive press-off of loops may occur.

Uses of Raschel Warp Knitting Machine:

Made from heavier yarns, Raschel knits are used for manufacturing versatile and flexible fabrics.
These are more textured and can be used for a wide range of technical textile applications. Such as-
automotive textiles, home textiles, lingerie, mosquito nets, lightweight coating substrates,
sportswear/swimwear, lining fabrics, outerwear, etc. Different types of single and double needle bar
Raschel machines are built today for the production of a wide variety of products ranging from sacks
to artificial blood vessels. Seamless tubular fabrics, pile fabrics and many other special fabrics can
easily be produced in double needle bar machine by using 4 to 6 guide bars. But by using more
number of guide bars (16 and above), production of branching tubular fabrics such as artificial blood
vessels, patterned panty-hose etc. and shaped innerwear is no more a problem. Warp knitted spacer
fabric (WKSF) is a three-dimensional textile which is also made by a double-needle bar Raschel
machine.

Simplex and Milanese

A simplex fabric is one which is produced on a warp knit machine known as a simplex
machine. These are wide and flat, similar to a tricot machine, but the machine has two needle
bars which essentially produce a double and integrated thickness of fabric. Simplex fabrics
have good stretch and recovery in the width without using any spandex fiber content.
Simplex was the original glove fabric and it was also originally used in swimwear. The drape
and hand of the fabric is incomparably soft and flowing which makes it suitable for drapes,
displays and architectural fabrications. Simplex fabrics of 100% polyester can be finished to
easily achieve NFPA 701 flame retardancy for home or hotel furnishings. Simplex is also the
most sought after fabric for brassieres, especially in large sizes where spandex doesn't offer
enough control.
Milanese knit These knit fabrics are made from two sets of yarn knitted diagonally, which
results in the face fabric having a fine vertical rib and the reverse having a diagonal structure,
and results in these fabrics being lightweight, smooth, and run-resistant. Milanese is now
virtually obsolete. The Milanese machine is much slower than the tricot machine and does not
have the versatility and flexibility in design capability when compared to other warp knitting
machines. Due to these reasons their production is limited. Fabrics have a fine, diagonal rib effect on
the face and a highly visible angular effect, on the back. Smooth-textured fine yarns are used in
these knits in limited design patterns.
Usage:

Milano Knit Fabric is the base of multicoloured Jacquards. Milano Knit Fabrics It is usually
knitted coarse gauge and widely used for making sweaters, dresses, Milano Knit Fabric can
be used for collars as well.

Kitten Raschel
 Raschel Knit Fabric is a type of Warp knitted fabric. This kind of fabric is made on a
special knitting machine by taking threads from the warp beam.
 Latch needles are a specialized kind of needle that is used by this equipment.
 On the face side of the fabric, there are slightly inclined vertical knitting loops. On the
reverse side of the fabric, however, there are inclined horizontal floats.
 Most raschel knits have complicated patterns that look like crochet or lace with open
spaces and a surface effect that looks almost like a three-dimensional model.
 The knitting method known as rascal knitting is done using industrial knitting
machines and not by hand.
 Raschel knits are not particularly stretchy and often have a rather bulky appearance.
Types of threading

 The higher the quality of the thread, the less special handling will be required.
 Poor quality thread has much lint and breaks easily and can take the joy out of any
sewing project. Each type of thread has specific characteristics and will behave
differently on sewing machines. Threads are either made of a natural fiber (cotton,
wool, silk, linen) or synthetic fibers (rayon, polyester, nylon).
 While there are dozens of fiber types that could be twisted and spun into thread, there
are a handful of common fibers that are used in sewing, quilting, serging, and
embroidery.
 Spun thread - Cotton or polyester staple fibers are spun into single yarns and then
twisted together.
 Corespun thread - Spun cotton or polyester staple fibers are wrapped around
filament polyester fibers.
 Textured thread - Polyester or nylon that has been mechanically textured to make
the thread fuzzy and stretchy and woollie-like. Texturing is a procedure used to
increase the volume and the elasticity of a filament yarn. The essential properties of
textured yarns and the products made from them are softness, fullness, a high degree
of elasticity, thermal insulation and moisture-transporting properties.
 Filament thread - Shiny thread made of strands of polyester, rayon, or nylon.
 Monofilament thread - A single nylon or polyester filament. Polyester is highly
preferred.
 Bonded thread - A strength-enhancing resin is coated on the outside of the thread.
This increases the tensile strength and helps reduce friction. Bonded threads are
usually meant for upholstery and heavy duty sewing applications.

Thread Types

Cotton

 Cotton threads are made from twisting the fine staples (fibers) from a cotton bowl to
create a thread.
 There are many degrees of cotton quality. Superior's cotton threads are made from
Egytpitan-grown extra-long-staple cotton fibers.
 The advantages of cotton threads are: its strength, medium sheen, and the natural
fibers help grab the fabric to create a tight seam.
 The disadvantages of cotton threads are: difficult to tell low-quality from high-quality
(purchasing thread from a reputable company helps alleviate this risk), low-to-high
lint depending on the staple length and processing, and quality cotton threads can be
more expensive.

Corespun Polyester (also called poly-wrapped poly core)

 Corespun polyester threads have a filament polyester core that is wrapped with spun
polyester.
  The advantages of corespun polyester threads are: its strength, reduced puckering, and
excellent stitchability. The disadvantages of corespun polyester threads are: low-to-
moderate lint.

Monofilament Polyester

 Monofilament polyester threads are a single strand of polyester fiber, similar to

fishing line.
 The advantages of monofilament polyester threads are: it's usually a very fine thread
that blends very well and can be ironed on medium heat.
 The disadvantages of monofilament polyester threads are: tension adjustments are
usually required when quilting.

Spun Polyester

 Spun polyester threads are made from the twisting of small polyester staple fibers
together to create a long thread (very similar to how cotton threads are created from
cotton staples).
 The advantages of spun polyester threads are: spun polyester threads are less
expensive to produce and are usually priced lower than any other type of polyester
thread.
 The disadvantages of spun polyester threads are: moderate-to-high levels of lint when
sewing and not as strong as filament or corespun polyester threads.

Rayon

 Rayon is created by pressing cellulose acetate (usually made from wood pulp) through
small holes and solidifying it in the form of filaments (sound like fun!).
 The advantages of rayon threads are: its high-sheen colors, its soft touch, and it's an
inexpensive thread.
 The disadvantages of rayon threads are: it's often not colorfast (the dye can bleed
onto fabric when exposed to strong detergent, UV light, or bleach), it's not as strong
as trilobal polyester, and the fiber itself is not as durable as polyester.

Nylon

 Nylon threads are synthetic threads (polyester threads are synthetic as well) often used
in the form of a monofilament clear thread or as a textured fuzzy (woollie-like)
thread.
 The negatives far outweigh the positives of nylon. We do not recommend sewing or
quilting with nylon threads, as there are better versions for the same application in
polyester threads.
 The only type of Nylon thread we use and recommend is Bonded Nylon for
upholstery and heavy-duty sewing.
  Bonded Nylon is made from a different type of material than nylon sewing thread. We
don't use nylon for quilting or embroidery.

Metallic

 Metallic threads are created from multiple layers of materials wrapped and twisted
together.
 The quality of metallic threads range from very high to very low. A good metallic
thread does not require a lubricant.
 Superior's metallic threads have a strong nylon core, a thin layer of rice paper and a
special outer coating that keeps the silver foil from rubbing against the needle.
 The advantages of Superior's metallic thread is beautiful sheen and excellent stitch
quality when embroidered, quilted, or sewn
 . The disadvantages of metallic thread i: tension adjustments are required and
stitching speed may need to be decreased.

Production of net

 Net or netting is any textile in which the yarns are fused, looped or knotted at their
intersections, resulting in a fabric with open spaces between the yarns.
 Net has many uses, and comes in different varieties.
 Depending on the type of yarn or filament that is used to make up the textile, its
characteristics can vary from durable to not durable.

Uses
 People use net for many different occupations.
 Netting is one of the key components to fishing in mass quantities.
 This textile is used because of its sturdy yet flexible origin, which can carry weight
yet, still be lightweight and compactable.
 This coating adds a waterproof component to the textile that provides even more
reliability.
 Net has been used in fashion for centuries.
 Net is also used in medical practices to provide fabric insulation and wrapping under
an industry standard sling.
 In the medical practice, netting provides cushion and protection, when used in
layers, but still allows the skin to breathe under the fabric.
 Depending on what the netting is being used for, a different wax or plastic coating
can be applied in order to cover the filaments that use up the yarn.
 Filaments can be made from synthetic or natural fibres, depending on the end use
of the fabric itself

Production of Curtains
Dyed process curtain

Dyeing process curtain: The use of the original white yarn woven cloth, woven and then
dyed, this is the dyed cloth curtain.

Features: Dyed fabric curtains are generally a single color, solid color dyed fabrics are rich
in color, the same fabric can be dyed dozens or even hundreds of different colors.

Yarn-dyed process curtain

Yarn-dyed curtain process: First the yarn is dyed, using one or more colors of yarn and then
woven cloth this is yarn-dyed fabric.

Features: yarn-dyed process can be used to make monochrome fabric, strong color fastness,
different batches of fabric color difference is also very small. Yarn-dyed fabrics can also
weave several color cycles of fabric, compared to dyed fabrics can produce more colorful
fabrics.

Embroidery process curtain

Embroidery curtain process: In the already processed fabric above, according to the
requirements of embroidery, composition of pattern flowers this is the embroidery curtain.

Features: 3D pattern, beautiful and generous, high-end atmosphere.

Printed process curtain

Printing process: Printing color and pattern on plain blank cloth by transfer or circular
screen printing, it is called printed cloth, simply said that the cloth is woven, and then the
pattern is printed on. Printing processes include paper printing, active printing and digital
printing.

Features: bright color, rich pattern, soft feel. Now the process is more mature, there will be
no fading of the situation, often washed as new.

Jacquard process curtain

Jacquard process curtain: jacquard is the embossing pattern composed of warp and weft
interleaving textiles. Jacquard fabric is woven on the fabric, after the shape of the cloth can
no longer choose flowers.

Features: The three-dimensional pattern is strong, the color is relatively soft, the fabric
texture is good, thick and strong, relatively high-grade, durable and connotation.
Heavy and elasticized fabrics

 A variety of elastic fabrics is used for making pressure garments for burn
rehabilitation. Such fabrics generally contain elastane, which has the disadvantage of
exerting a visco-elastic response to an applied load.
 If such a fabric is under tension over a period of time, some of the stress in it will be
relieved, with a consequent reduction in the skin-and-garment interfacial pressure.
 Elastic fabrics have different elastic properties lengthwise and widthwise.
 The deterioration of tension in the elastic fabrics affects the clinical effectiveness of
pressure garments.
 UNIT - V

Care and maintenance of knitted material

 Knitted garments are wonderful at keeping you warm during the colder seasons, but
without proper and care and maintenance of knitted fabrics, the fibers may weaken,
damaging the garment.
 Whether you have handcrafted the item yourself or purchased the garment ready-
made, knowing how to take care of knitwear will expand the lifespan as well as the
look of the garment.
 Once you understand how to care for knitted items, you will most likely be more
willing to try making new knitted projects and if you sell or give your knitted projects
as gifts, you can confidently include proper care instructions.
 Here is some brief information about knitted items and how to care for them.

Washing
 Wash knitwear separately from other things so that the wool fibers will not migrate
to other clothes.
 Do not use ordinary laundry detergent, especially with a whitening effect. Also, do
not use detergents containing bio-additives, colored granules and caustic soda. In
order for long and happy life of your knitwear, use special products for delicate
washing.
 Wash knit by hands, gently squeezing. Any case It’s prohibited to rub knitted
clothes!
 Turn the inside out clothes before washing.

Drying
 Drying your knits the right way is important to maintain their quality and shape.
Never wring or hang-dry knitwear, as wool stretches easily, especially when wet.
Instead, roll the garment in a clean and dry towel before gently pressing it. Once
the towel has absorbed the excess water, carefully ease your knit into shape and lay it
flat on top of a dry towel or a drying rack.
  While you might be tempted to place your woollen garment near or on top of a heater
to dry faster, you should avoid doing so, as too much heat can damage the delicate
fibres and cause your knitwear to shrink.

Ironing
 iron your knits if absolutely necessary, using a low-temperature setting and a
protective, clean cloth between the fabric and the iron. Never hang, rub or twist
knitwear, as this can ruin the fabric and shape of the garment. Never tumble-dry
knitwear; it can cause damage and might even shrink your garment.

Knitwear Care Do’s and Don’ts

 Always make sure to check the garment care instructions.

 When washing and drying, avoid exposing your knitwear to high temperatures and
direct sunlight.
 Only iron your knits if absolutely necessary, using a low-temperature setting and a
protective, clean cloth between the fabric and the iron.
 Never hang, rub or twist knitwear, as this can ruin the fabric and shape of the
garment.
 Never tumble-dry knitwear; it can cause damage and might even shrink your garment.
 The easiest and best thing you can do to care for your knitwear is to wash it as little as
possible!

It can seem a little tricky to care for knitwear at first, but following the guide above will
ensure that you’ll be able to enjoy your knitted garments for many seasons to come.