CPRI TPR Response 21 Aug 24
CPRI TPR Response 21 Aug 24
Plaintiff,
v.
TAPESTRY, INC.,
Civil Action No. 1:24-cv-03109 (JLR)
and
FILED UNDER SEAL
CAPRI HOLDINGS LIMITED,
Defendants.
INTRODUCTION ...........................................................................................................................1
ARGUMENT .................................................................................................................................15
2
III. PLAINTIFF CANNOT CARRY ITS BURDEN TO SHOW THE
TRANSACTION WILL HAVE SUBSTANTIAL ANTICOMPETITIVE
EFFECTS IN ITS RELEVANT MARKETS ....................................................................38
3
TABLE OF AUTHORITIES
Page(s)
CASES
2
United States v. Booz Allen Hamilton Inc.,
No. CV CCB-22-1603, 2022 WL 9976035 (D. Md. Oct. 17, 2022) .......................................20
Winter v. NRDC,
555 U.S. 7 (2008) .....................................................................................................................13
STATUTES
15 U.S.C. § 18 ................................................................................................................................12
3
TREATISES
11A C. Wright, A. Miller, & M. Kane, Federal Practice and Procedure § 2948.3
(3d ed. 2013) ............................................................................................................................14
OTHER AUTHORITIES
4
INTRODUCTION
Plaintiff Federal Trade Commission’s case is devoid of any focus on what matters most in
an antitrust case: the options available to the consumer. That is a problem because merger analysis
is supposed to examine how a proposed transaction will change consumer choice and whether it
will leave consumers without reasonable alternatives, forcing them to pay higher prices. Plaintiff
and its economic expert have built their case on theories and models that are completely divorced
from the marketplace realities and that have nothing to do with the consumer. In Plaintiff’s
alternate universe, after the transaction closes, consumers shopping for a Michael Kors handbag
priced at $295 will have to pay at least $383.50 because Tapestry will be able to jack up prices by
as much as 30%, and consumers will be stuck paying that price. Why? Because, they say, the
hundreds of handbag brands available online, in malls, at department stores, and the thousands of
preowned bags splayed across the internet at all price points are not alternatives.
The evidence will show that there is no handbag at any price remotely relevant to this case
where consumers do not have dozens and dozens—if not hundreds—of substitutes available to
them. If a brand seeks to raise price without raising value in the eyes of consumers, consumers
will “defeat” that price increase by simply turning to one of those hundreds of choices available to
them. This is how the real world operates. If the market operated the way Plaintiff posits, third
parties would be up in arms expressing concerns that the transaction will harm them. But, over
the last three months, Defendants obtained documents and data from 120 third parties and took 15
third-party depositions, and unlike in the government’s typical merger challenge, not a single third
party expressed concern that the transaction will harm consumers. Not a single consumer. Not a
single wholesaler. Not even a single handbag competitor. The only people who have expressed a
view that this transaction is problematic are Plaintiff and its expert.
For these reasons and others, Plaintiff cannot carry its burden under the well-established
burden-shifting standard set forth in United States v. Baker Hughes Inc., 908 F.2d 981 (D.C. Cir.
1990). Plaintiff cannot meet its prima facie burden to establish a relevant antitrust market and that
the transaction will result in undue concentration in that market. Remarkably, after analyzing this
transaction for a year, Plaintiff’s lawyers and economist still cannot even agree on what that the
relevant market is. Plaintiff’s complaint and pre-trial brief purport to define an “accessible luxury”
market for handbags based on certain Brown Shoe “practical indicia” factors, including supposedly
“distinct price points” in the range of $100-$1,000 (even though the majority of Kate Spade and
Michael Kors handbags actually sell for less than $100), distinct customers (even though the
documents Plaintiff relies upon show that customers at all incomes buy so-called “accessible
luxury” bags, “luxury” handbags, and “mass market” handbags), and distinct production facilities
(even though the evidence establishes that “accessible luxury brands” and “luxury” brands often
manufacture in the same locations, and sometimes side-by-side). Plaintiff does not limit its market
The analysis put forth by Plaintiff’s economist, Dr. Loren Smith, could not be more
different. In his view, the market is defined not by what consumers demand, but instead hinges
“bridge” or “contemporary” brand, without regard to price. Dr. Smith never tested whether the
brands in the categories contained in that third-party list satisfy the Brown Shoe factors Plaintiff
relied upon in proposing its “accessible luxury” market. Instead, he baldly uses those categories
as a proxy for “accessible luxury” even though he has no idea how NPD arrived at its
classifications. He also ignores that NPD only includes brands sold through one of the limited
number of wholesalers it tracks, and only includes new bags. If NPD defines a brand as “bridge”
2
or “contemporary,” Dr. Smith declares its bags as “accessible luxury handbags,” regardless of
where the bag is made, how much it costs, what it is made of, what it looks like, whether it is
sold at discount, who its customers are, or how consumers perceive the bag. Dr. Smith ignores
the voluminous third-party data, documents, and testimony that contradict his view of who
competes: he delegates that choice to the NPD user guide and considers that task complete.
Dr. Smith then compounds those errors by purporting to validate his “accessible luxury
handbag” market through a striking misapplication of an economic tool known as the Hypothetical
Monopolist Test, or HMT. Dr. Smith builds his HMT on diversion ratios. Diversion ratios, he
admits, are supposed to estimate the percentage of customers that would switch from one brand to
another in the event of a price increase. But that is not how Dr. Smith built his diversion ratios.
. As
discussed below, the law is clear that where surveys do not ask the necessary questions to get at
consumer responses to price changes, they cannot be used to generate reliable diversion ratios.
Neither Plaintiff nor its expert commissioned such surveys. This fundamental flaw in Dr. Smith’s
analysis leads to implausible results and is not a methodology that can reliably predict likely harm.
satisfy its threshold burden that is completely outside the established law. Plaintiff claims that this
Court should be the first ever to hold that Plaintiff can meet its threshold burden without defining
a relevant market, simply by showing the elimination of head-to-head competition between close
competitors. This Court should reject Plaintiff’s invitation to ignore Supreme Court precedent.
If a plaintiff establishes its prima facie case, the second prong of the Baker Hughes
framework looks at whether the plaintiff’s prima facie case “inaccurately predicts the transaction’s
3
probable effect on competition.” Here, Plaintiff’s improperly derived market shares inaccurately
predict the transaction’s effect on future competition. Handbag competitors and industry experts
will testify that entry barriers are low, new competitors routinely enter and succeed, and many
incumbents have plans to expand or reposition. At the same time, Michael Kors handbag sales
have fallen, and there is no proof to suggest that its share today is indicative of what it will be
tomorrow. In recent years, the Michael Kors brand has lost its luster. Tapestry’s turnaround plans
will enhance the Michael Kors’ brand’s value and provide consumers a procompetitive benefit.
After Plaintiff’s prima facie case is rebutted, under the third prong of the Baker Hughes
analysis, Plaintiff bears the burden to demonstrate that the transaction is likely to substantially
reduce competition in its relevant market. Plaintiff’s pre-trial brief says nothing on this point, and
Dr. Smith does nothing to aid the cause. Assuming that Coach and Kate Spade are the primary
constraints on Michael Kors pricing today, Dr. Smith projects that once Tapestry closes the deal,
it can automatically impose a price increase of as much as 30% (or more) on Michael Kors
handbags. That is a fantasy. Michael Kors has lost share not because of Tapestry, but because of
the intense competition that permeates the industry. Dr. Smith’s dependence on the same faulty
analysis that drives his HMT fails to carry Plaintiff’s burden to show anticompetitive effects.
Plaintiff cannot carry its burden of proof and the Court should deny Plaintiff’s request for
a preliminary injunction.
STATEMENT OF FACTS
A. Consumers Face Handbag Choices Everywhere They Turn And They Have
Hundreds Of Choices In A Highly Competitive Marketplace
This case turns on how consumers choose and buy handbags, and the choices available to
them. A persistent theme in Plaintiff’s case is that Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors are “close
competitors.” What Plaintiff appears to really be saying is that, from Plaintiff’s standpoint, the
4
brands have similar sales channels, including footprints at outlets, brand longevity, and, as two
public company competitors, have tracked each other’s sales and data to report to their boards and
investors. This focuses on the wrong question since it does not focus on consumers and consumer
substitution occurring today and beyond. The consumer perspective is exemplified by what
consumers see online, when visiting a mall, or visiting a Dillard’s, Macy’s, or other retail store.
Today, consumers across the U.S. can purchase handbags from hundreds of different brands.1
First, consumers looking for a handbag can search online from their couch. Even if they
are not actively searching, handbags may appear as advertisements on other websites they view,
like Facebook, Instagram, TikTok, Google, and so on. Once online, prospective purchasers can
buy handbags from brands’ direct-to-consumer (“DTC”) e-commerce websites, from brands’
online outlet stores, from department stores online, from other online retailers like Amazon or Rue
La La, or from online resale sellers like Poshmark and The RealReal.2
Second, consumers have myriad brick and mortar store options from multi-brand retailers
like Dillard’s and Nordstrom to single-brand retailers like Madewell and Cole Haan. While the
specific brands and stores names may differ, this highly competitive landscape for the supply of
handbags exists across the United States. And if the consumers are unsatisfied with their options—
or want to do a simple price check—they can look at their phone while in the store to see if a
handbag is available cheaper somewhere else or what the competition offers as an alternative.
The numerous shopping channels available to consumers are dwarfed only by the
thousands of handbag designs and styles available for sale from many hundreds of brands with
1
After investigating this transaction for nearly nine months, Plaintiff alleges national geographic
market which Defendants accept for purposes of analysis.
2
Ex. 1, Giberson Rep. ¶¶ 20-21. Since 2005, industry expert Giberson has been the President of
the Accessories Council, a trade organization for fashion accessories (including handbags) with
over 350 members.
5
offerings at every potential price point.3 Even after Dr. Smith artificially limits competitive
options to the NPD “bridge” and “contemporary” categories, he still is left admitting 238 brands
compete with the merging parties.4 There are hundreds more competitors, including brands that
NPD doesn’t track (such as trendy brands like Lululemon, Telfar, and Cuyana) and brands that
3
Ex. 1, Giberson Rep. ¶ 17-18. See generally Ex. 2, Giberson Rep., App. C.
4
See Ex. 3, Smith Rep. 22, fn. 75; Ex. 4, DX-503 (134 brands in NPD “bridge”); Ex. 5, DX-504
(89 brands in NPD “contemporary”).
5
6
9
10
11
12
13
Indeed, Plaintiff’s revisionist attempt to describe who competes in the “accessible luxury”
category defies common sense because it excludes competitors who are priced just below and
above Defendants’ handbags, and even brands priced the same. As Defendants’ economic expert,
Dr. Fiona Scott Morton, will testify (and Dr. Smith was forced to admit),14 the majority of Michael
10
11
12
13
Ex. 17, Gennette Rep. ¶ 26 (Macy’s
grouped brands by customer “Lifestyles”). Jeff Gennette has spent over 40 years in the retail
fashion business and recently retired as President, CEO, and Chairman of Macy’s in early 2024.
14
Dr. Fiona Scott Morton is a Professor of Economics at the Yale School of Management,
where she has been on the faculty since 1999. Dr. Scott Morton previously served as the Deputy
Assistant Attorney General for Economic Analysis (Chief Economist) at the Antitrust Division
of the U.S. Department of Justice in 2011-2012.
7
Kors and Kate Spade handbags sell for . Thus, if the price of a Michael Kors
handbag was suddenly increased 30% (say from $95 to $123.50), consumers could choose a
other brands that Plaintiff and Dr. Smith pejoratively label “mass market” because many of their
handbags sell for .15 Because these sellers are all labeled as “better” or “moderate”
by NPD (or not tracked at all), Dr. Smith excludes them from his analysis. None of Dr. Smith’s
market shares consider these options available to consumers who previously bought a $95 Michael
Kors handbag. Tapestry documents reflect this broad and intense competition.16
17
Plaintiff and Dr. Smith ignore them
Defendants’ handbags also compete with higher priced bags, including those sold by
European fashion house brands like Louis Vuitton, Prada, Chanel, Gucci, and Burberry. Again,
although Plaintiff fails to mention it, the Kantar survey data that Dr. Smith relies upon shows that
buyers of Coach handbags also considered buying handbags from Prada and Burberry. 18
15
16
17
18
Ex. 23, Scott Morton Rep. ¶ 282.
8
19
Dr. Smith’s decision to rely solely on NPD’s bridge and
contemporary buckets means that his market shares ignore this competition.
New brands are emerging every day.20 Examples of new brands over just the past few
years include Telfar, Brandon Blackwood, Senreve, Staud, Veronica Beard, Kurt Geiger, and
Lululemon. New handbag companies can readily access third-party manufacturing, marketing,
and distribution.
”21 For contract manufacturing, there are factories all over the world with
different capabilities available to work with new handbag companies, including Tivoli, in Italy and
Incas International in India.22 There are also companies that help new entrants with “end-to-end”
New handbag entrants do not need a brick and mortar store presence to succeed because
they can grow sales through wholesale, online, and DTC channels.24
25
26
19
20
For example, a Vogue article from February 2023 catalogued 17 new and emerging brands with
price points under $1000 including Anine Bing, Savette, Hereu, Aesther Ekme, By Far, Staud and
others. Ex. 25, Laura Jackson, “These 20 Contemporary Brands are Defining the New Era of It
Bags,” Vogue, February 2, 2023, available at https://www.vogue.com/article/emerging-handbag-
brands.
21
22
Ex. 1, Giberson Rep. ¶¶ 87-89.
23
Ex. 1, Giberson Rep. ¶ 94.
24
Ex. 17, Gennette Rep. ¶¶ 38-40, 54-56; Ex. 1, Giberson Rep. ¶¶ 97-99;
25
26
9
27
and succeed.
.28
must constantly innovate to stay relevant and top of mind for consumers. With so many options,
consumers are focused on value and will not pay more for a Coach, Kate Spade, Michael Kors, or
any other brand handbag without seeing a corresponding increase in the value of the handbag. 29
30
Industry experts Giberson and Gennette agree.31 This
.32
27
28
29
See Ex. 1, Giberson Rep. ¶¶ 76-77.
30
31
Ex. 1, Giberson Rep. ¶¶ 76-103; Ex. 17, Gennette Rep. ¶¶ 60-87.
32
10
.33
34
This evidence proves that this industry is the opposite of those normally the focus of
government merger challenges. First, this case involves fashion where consumer preferences and
trends rule. Second, the fashion industry involves discretionary purchases since most women
already own more than one handbag—not a food staple needed to feed a family. Third, successful
competitors selling similar products that consumers could turn to in the event of a price increases.
This transaction has never been about eliminating a competitor. Tapestry is acquiring three
iconic brands in Versace, Jimmy Choo, and Michael Kors so that it can bring its expertise in
consumer engagement, data analytics, and marketing to them, while broadening the Tapestry
portfolio, all to reach more consumers, more effectively, with products consumers want. The
entire purpose of the deal is to drive more sales and, in antitrust parlance, increase output. Any
suggestion to the contrary is without evidence, ignores all the testimony, and is a red herring.
As to Michael Kors specifically, the brand has faced decline. Its sales peaked around 2015
and 2016 and have been going backwards ever since. The brand’s decline has resulted in an
overreliance on discounting.
33
34
11
.35 Michael Kors has not been
delivering what consumers want, which means even as Michael Kors has attempted to increase
handbag prices, this has only resulted in the brand having to raise discounts even more to sell its
product.36 37
38
In short, Tapestry will help customers see the value of a Michael Kors handbag.
Tapestry previously revived the Coach brand by paying close attention to consumer characteristics
and the emotions associated with the handbag purchases and will apply this same type of process
and investment to Michael Kors.39 The transaction will increase demand for Capri’s products,
expand sales, and ultimately deliver the Capri brands, including Michael Kors, to more consumers.
LEGAL STANDARDS
Section 7 of the Clayton Act. Section 7 of the Clayton Act is the substantive law that
governs this case. 15 U.S.C. § 18. Ultimately the FTC must prove a violation of Section 7 to
prevent Tapestry from owning Capri. Section 7 only prohibits transactions if “the effect of such
acquisition may be substantially to lessen competition.” 15 U.S.C. § 18; Int’l Shoe Co. v. FTC,
35
36
Ex. 23, Scott Morton Rep., Exhibit 16.
37
38
39
Ex. 23, Scott Morton Rep. ¶ 298.
12
280 U.S. 291, 298 (1930) (“some lessening of competition, is not forbidden”). Plaintiff must prove
“that the substantial lessening of competition will be ‘sufficiently probable and imminent’ to
warrant relief.” FTC v. Arch Coal, 329 F. Supp. 2d 109, 115 (D.D.C. 2004) (citations omitted).
extraordinary remedy never awarded as of right.” Winter v. NRDC, 555 U.S. 7, 24 (2008). Section
13(b) of the FTC Act, 15 U.S.C. § 53(b), governs Plaintiff’s ability to seek a preliminary injunction
here. Congress gave only federal district courts, not the FTC, the power to enjoin a deal, with the
expectation that the courts would “exercise independent judgment” before granting relief. H.R.
Rep. No. 624, 93d Cong., 1st Sess. 31 (1973). Section 13(b) allows a court to grant the FTC a
preliminary injunction only if the court finds the FTC has a “likelihood of ultimate success” in
proving a Section 7 violation and after “weighing the equities.” 15 U.S.C. § 53(b).
As in most Section 13(b) cases, a principal debate for this trial is whether Plaintiff will be
able to meet its burden to show it has a “likelihood of ultimate success” in proving Tapestry’s
acquisition of Capri violates Section 7. Because the real-world facts are not on its side, from the
start of this litigation, Plaintiff has repeatedly tried to water down the legal standard as much as
possible. Its brief does so in two ways, neither of which the law supports.
First, citing FTC v. IQVIA Holdings, Inc., No. 23 CIV. 06188, 2023 WL 7152577
(S.D.N.Y. Oct. 31, 2023), Plaintiff argues that when Congress wrote the words “likelihood of
ultimate success” it did not mean what it said. Instead, Plaintiff asks this Court to apply a standard
found nowhere in Section 13(b) and only require it to “raise[] serious questions about the antitrust
merits that warrant thorough investigation in the first instance by the FTC.”40 Pl. Mot. For PI at
40
It is understandable why IQVIA got offtrack on the standard. There is a dearth of authority on
the Section 13(b) standard in the Second Circuit—primarily just a single district court case from
13
7. That interpretation of Section 13(b) cannot be squared with the statute’s text, has not been
adopted by the Second Circuit, and is wrong under recent Supreme Court law. A few months ago
in Starbucks Corp. v. McKinney—a case Plaintiff neglects to cite—the Supreme Court confirmed
that absent a contrary “clear command from Congress” (which Section 13(b) does not supply), a
federal government agency must make a “clear showing” of a likelihood of success on the merits
to obtain a preliminary injunction. 144 S. Ct. 1570, 1575-76 (2024) (holding that the “likelihood
of success” standard means what it says and requires more than just showing that the agency’s
case poses a “substantial and not frivolous” question). That is plainly the case here: Section
13(b)’s text requires courts to assess Plaintiff “likelihood of ultimate success.” 15 U.S.C. § 53(b).
Contrary to Plaintiff’s assertion, to assess whether Plaintiff can make a clear showing that
it is likely to ultimately prevail in proving a Section 7 violation, the Court must consider “conflicts
in the evidence” and “undertake an extensive analysis of the antitrust issues.” Pl. Mot. for PI, at 8
(citation omitted). As Starbucks explains, before finding a likelihood of success, a district court
“must evaluate”—not ignore—“any factual conflicts or difficult questions of law.” 144 S. Ct. at
1578 (emphasis added). The existence of a factual conflict or a hard legal question ultimately
benefits Defendants, not Plaintiff, as it can “create sufficient doubt about the probability of [the
FTC’s] success” and “justify denying a preliminary injunction.” 11A C. Wright, A. Miller, & M.
Kane, Federal Practice and Procedure § 2948.3 (3d ed. 2013) (citing cases).
Second, Plaintiff next wrongly argues that its likelihood of “ultimate” success is measured
based on whether it will prevail in the FTC’s own in-house “administrative hearing,” rather than
the 1970s, FTC v. Lancaster Colony Corp., 434 F. Supp. 1088 (S.D.N.Y. 1977). Lancaster Colony
was one of the first courts in the country to construe Section 13(b). The “serious question” standard
Lancaster Colony invented is found nowhere in the statute’s text or its legislative history. See,
e.g., H.R. Rep. No. 624, 93d Cong., 1st Sess. 31 (1973). As discussed above, these cases are
inconsistent with Starbucks, which the Supreme Court issued after IQVIA.
14
on whether it will ultimately succeed on appeal from that process in an Article III court. Pl. Mot.
for PI, at 8. Section 13(b) requires an assessment of “ultimate success”—not “interim success”—
and it also states that the preliminary injunction should last until “such complaint is dismissed by
the Commission or set aside by the court on review.” 15 U.S.C. § 53(b) (emphasis added). Even
Plaintiff’s cited authorities peg the success inquiry to a favorable “determination by the FTC in
the first instance and ultimately by the Court of Appeals.” Lancaster, 434 F. Supp. at 1091
(emphasis added); see FTC v. Warner Commc’ns Inc., 742 F.2d 1156, 1162 (9th Cir. 1984) (same);
FTC v. Elders Grain, Inc., 868 F.2d 901, 903 (7th Cir. 1989) (“likelihood of success” contemplates
“a full administrative proceeding before the FTC, followed by judicial review . . . in one of the
courts of appeals”). No other approach makes sense when the FTC writes the rules and law that
apply in its administrative proceedings and serves as prosecutor, judge, and jury.41 To obtain a
preliminary injunction, Plaintiff must therefore prove that it is likely to succeed in convincing a
ARGUMENT
The determination of whether Plaintiff can establish that it is likely to succeed on the merits
of showing “that a substantial lessening of competition will be sufficiently probable and imminent
to warrant relief,” Arch Coal, 329 F. Supp. 2d at 115, operates through a three step burden-shifting
standard laid out in Baker Hughes, 908 F.2d 981; see also New York v. Deutsche Telekom, 439 F.
Supp. 3d 179, 206-07 (S.D.N.Y. 2020). Plaintiff bears the burden to establish a prima facie case
41
Proof of the need for judicial review is confirmed by the FTC’s track record: even though the
FTC has lost multiple times in federal court, the outcome of the administrative litigation process
is that the FTC always ultimately wins. See Axon Enter., Inc. v. FTC, 598 U.S. 175, 216 (2023)
(Gorsuch, J., concurring) (“some say the FTC has not lost an in-house proceeding in 25 years”).
This is hardly surprising: the FTC Commissioners who voted to sue to block the transaction in the
first place are the same decision-makers who determine if the deal is anticompetitive at the end of
the administrative process.
15
that (1) the merger is likely to result in substantial harm to competition in a relevant antitrust
market and (2) that the merger will result in “undue concentration” in a properly defined market.
Baker Hughes, 908 F.2d at 982-83. If Plaintiff fails to prove its prima facie case, its whole case
fails. Otherwise, the case proceeds to step two, where Defendants must show that Plaintiff’s
“prima facie case inaccurately predicts the relevant transaction’s probable effect on future
competition.” Id. at 991. If Defendants rebut Plaintiff’s prima facie case, under step three, the
burden shifts back to Plaintiff to prove that the merger will substantially lessen competition in its
relevant market. Id. at 983. The ultimate burden of persuasion always rests with Plaintiff. Id. 42
Plaintiff fails at the first prong because it cannot carry its burden to show that it is likely to
succeed in establishing relevant market under either of its two proffered theories. First, Plaintiff
contends the evidence supports its contrived “accessible luxury market.” Second, Plaintiff
claims—without citation to any precedent—that this Court does not need to find proof of any
is enough to carry its prima facie burden. Pl. Mot. for PI at 23. The first argument fails for a lack
of proof, while the second argument fails as a matter of law. The Court should deny Plaintiff’s
Market definition is a “pragmatic” and “factual” exercise, “not a formal, legalistic one,”
which is designed to determine, from the consumers’ perspective, the “area of effective
42
The FTC is also unlikely to succeed because the FTC’s administrative proceeding itself is
unconstitutional in several respects, but Defendants will litigate those constitutional challenges in
a separate forum.
16
competition,” consistent with “the commercial realities of the industry.” Brown Shoe Co. v. United
States, 370 U.S. 294, 324, 336 (1962). In a case like this one, where Plaintiff alleges consumer
harm, “[t]he relevant market must be defined as all products reasonably interchangeable by
consumers for the same purposes, because the ability of consumers to switch to a substitute
restrains a firm’s ability to raise prices above the competitive level.” City of New York v. Grp.
Health Inc., 649 F.3d 151, 155 (2d Cir. 2011) (internal quotation marks and citations omitted)
(emphasis added). “Where the plaintiff fails to define its proposed relevant market with reference
relevant market that clearly does not encompass all interchangeable substitute products even when
all factual inferences are granted in plaintiff’s favor, the relevant market is legally insufficient.”
On the eve of trial, Plaintiff and its expert still cannot align on what an “accessible luxury
handbag” is, even though identifying what is in and out of the market is foundational to Plaintiff’s
case. On the face of its pleadings and based on Plaintiff’s representations to the Court,44
“accessible luxury handbags” are handbags that fit within parameters of its application of the
Brown Shoe factors and (1) feature “distinct prices” ranging loosely from $100-$1000; (2) are
made in “off shore Asia,” and (3) are crafted from “fine”—but not “the finest”—materials
(whatever that means). Plaintiff’s Brown Shoe analysis, however, supplies a definition that is too
43
See also Oracle, 331 F. Supp. 2d at 1131-32 (N.D. Cal. 2004) (noting product markets are
underinclusive if they fail to include all reasonably interchangeable products that constrain a
defendant’s pricing: the question is what customers could switch to in the event of a post-merger
price increase).
44
Compl. at ¶¶ 3-4. 33, 39, 42; Ex. 37, Remote Oral Argument Tr. 32:13-23 (May 13, 2024) (THE
COURT: “[I]s the market defined based on competitors, pricing, customers, craftsmanship, or is
it a combination of those things?” MS. DENNIS: “It’s a combination of those things, your Honor.
That’s how we define the market according to the Brown Shoe factors. That’s how the law says
that we are allowed to define the market.”).
17
vague to know what is in and out of the product market. Are handbags that sell at the same prices
as Defendants’ handbags in the market (regardless of whether they are outside of $100-$1000)?
Are all handbags that are sold in the $100-$1000 price range in the market? Are handbags of the
same quality materials but that sell for less than $100 in the market? What about preowned
handbags that sell for under $1000? What about new designer bags that sell for less than $1000?
What about a $1200 handbag that goes on sale for 20% off? Because Plaintiff’s market lacks
discernable parameters, there are not clear answers to these basic questions.
Dr. Smith’s expert report does not shed any light on these issues. 45 Dr. Smith posits a
different relevant market that is not tethered to Brown Shoe or the factual record built around the
Brown Shoe factors at all. Indeed, Dr. Smith makes clear that his relevant market is not defined
industry thinks competes, or—most critically—what consumers view as substitutes. Instead, Dr.
Smith defines the market based on cuts from NPD data (NPD is a third-party data source derived
from sales information for certain department stores, known as wholesalers, that tracks segments
of retail sales in different industries and has no unique expertise in handbags). Specifically, he
limits his analysis to the sales of those brands that NPD classifies in its “bridge” and
“contemporary” tiers. As a result, Dr. Smith defines an “accessible luxury handbag” as limited to
45
Dr. Smith’s entire analysis is not based on sufficient data and does not reflect a reliable
application of basic merger economic principles and methods of analysis. As discussed, all of Dr.
Smith’s quantitative analyses, including the HMT that he uses to conclude the relevant market, the
shares he draws from that relevant market, and the competitive effects he posits will result from
this transaction, flow from his faulty calculation of diversion ratios. As Defendants will present
to the Court in a separate motion, Dr. Smith’s opinions based on his diversion ratios should be
excluded. See Zerega Ave. Realty Corp. v. Hornbeck Offshore Transp., LLC, 571 F.3d 206, 213–
14 (2d Cir. 2009). Dr. Smith’s decisions to remove certain categories of handbags and brands
from his relevant market also warrants exclusion of his opinions. Riegel v. Medtronic, Inc., 451
F.3d 104, 127 (2d Cir. 2006) (“An expert opinion requires some explanation as to how the expert
came to his conclusion and what methodologies or evidence substantiate that conclusion.”).
18
(1) brands that are tracked by NPD (meaning numerous brands like Cuyana, Louis Vuitton,
Lululemon, and Telfar are not included); (2) brands sold through the wholesale channels that NPD
tracks (meaning secondary sellers like Rue La La and Gilt Groupe are excluded); (3) brands that
NPD calls “bridge” and “contemporary” buckets (meaning brands like Calvin Klein, DKNY,
Burberry, and Yves Saint Laurent that are sold through NPD-tracked wholesale channels are
excluded regardless of price, quality, or functionality); and (4) sales of new bags within these
brands (meaning sales in department stores of preowned bags and sales through resellers like The
This leads to some bizarre outcomes. A Calvin Klein bag that retails for the same price as
a Michael Kors bag is out because it is characterized as “better” by NPD and not “bridge” or
“contemporary.” A Lululemon or Telfar bag that is priced the same as a Kate Spade bag is out
because NPD does not track Lululemon or Telfar. A new Longchamp bag sold on Gilt and a Marc
Jacobs bag sold at Rue La La are out because NPD does not track these channels. And the
numerous preowned Louis Vuitton Neverfull bags that are under $1000 are out regardless of
channel because NPD does not track sales of bags that are not new. This is all the case,
notwithstanding that Plaintiff and Dr. Smith did no factual economic work to test whether (1) the
“moderate,” “better,” and “designer,” brands are substitutes with “bridge” and “contemporary”
brands under Brown Shoe, the HMT or any other means; (2) Lululemon, Telfar, or the many other
brands he excludes because they do not report to NPD are substitutes with the NPD “bridge” and
“contemporary” brands under Brown Shoe, the HMT, or any other means; and (3) preowned and
new handbags of similar prices are substitutes under Brown Shoe, the HMT or any other means.
Similarly, Plaintiff and Dr. Smith did no work to understand how NPD characterizes handbags in
the various “moderate,” “better,” “bridge,” “contemporary,” and “designer” categories. Plaintiff
19
ultimately bases its entire case on NPD’s categorizations, but it did not subpoena or depose NPD.
“By defining the market so narrowly, the Government attempts to ‘gerrymander its way to victory
without due regard for market realities.’” United States v. Booz Allen Hamilton Inc., No. CV CCB-
22-1603, 2022 WL 9976035, at *10 (D. Md. Oct. 17, 2022) (citations omitted).
Plaintiff will be unable to succeed whether its or Dr. Smith’s “accessible luxury handbag”
market at trial. If Plaintiff pursues Dr. Smith’s “accessible luxury handbag” version of the market
tethered to Brown Shoe, it fails (1) due to an inability to prove a plausible relevant product market
under Brown Shoe (as detailed below); and (2) because Plaintiff’s market lacks any economic
support, including the necessary market shares—Dr. Smith supplies no market shares beyond the
If Plaintiff pursues its “NPD bridge/contemporary handbag” market, neither Plaintiff nor
Dr. Smith has done the factual and economic work needed to show that the decisions to exclude
numerous brands, channels, and preowned bags are backed by Brown Shoe, the HMT, or any other
analysis of consumer substitution patterns. On this basis alone, as in other cases, Plaintiff will be
unable to carry its burden because there is a failure of proof on the dispositive question of why all
of these sales were excluded from the market. See United States v. Gillette Co., 828 F. Supp. 78,
83-84 (D.D.C. 1993) (finding that government “failed to demonstrate that premium fountain pens
are not in competition with other premium writing instruments” and failed to establish its prima
facie case); United States v. U.S. Sugar Corp., No. CV 21-1644 (MN), 2022 WL 4544025, at *25
(D. Del. Sept. 28, 2022) (rejecting DOJ’s overly narrow market where DOJ “failed to identify the
relevant market for analyzing any proposed competitive injury” due to its failure to include
substitutes), aff'd, 73 F.4th 197, 205 (3d Cir. 2023) (noting the government’s effort to define the
20
relevant product market to exclude competitors was “irrelevant to consumer welfare” and “purely
self-serving”).46
Plaintiff defends its “accessible luxury” handbag market with reference to the Brown Shoe
“practical indicia” factors. Brown Shoe holds that market definition must “correspond to the
commercial realities of the industry,” 370 U.S. at 336, and that the boundaries of a market “may
submarket as a separate economic entity, the product’s peculiar characteristics and uses, unique
production facilities, distinct customers, distinct prices, sensitivity to price changes, and
specialized vendors.” Id. at 325. Plaintiff cannot carry its burden properly applying these factors.
Industry or Public Recognition of a Separate Economic Entity. In Brown Shoe, the Court
found it relevant that the “public” recognized differences between the distinct product markets for
men’s, women’s, and children’s shoes. Id. at 326. Plaintiff has not cited any evidence that
consumers shop for “accessible luxury” handbags as a distinct product, much like they would shop
for “women’s shoes” (as distinct from “men’s shoes”). Plaintiff nevertheless contends there is a
46
Plaintiff’s repeated reliance on IQVIA and Whole Foods does not require a different outcome
here. First, both cases were decided pre-Starbucks under a more deferential §13(b) standard.
Second, after reviewing the facts in those cases, the court determined that there were not substitutes
that customers viewed as reasonably interchangeable. The alternatives that the merging parties
pointed to in IQVIA (generalized advertising as a substitute for programmatic advertising to
healthcare professionals) and Whole Foods (generalized grocery stores as a substitute for grocery
stores specializing in premium and organic foods) did not offer the depth and breadth of products
and services that customers needed. Third, in both cases, three or fewer competitors would remain
post-merger. The handbag industry is totally different from these cases: there are hundreds of
functionally interchangeable handbags that customers can substitute to, which is why the FTC
cannot model anticompetitive effects as it did in those cases.
21
47
48
49
Product’s Peculiar Characteristics and Uses. Plaintiff does not and cannot argue that
there are peculiar uses for an “accessible luxury” handbag as distinct from a “mass market” or
“luxury” handbag so instead it tries to manufacture vague and unmeasured distinctions related to
peculiar characteristics. Plaintiff claims that “accessible luxury handbags” “boast high quality
materials (often leather) and elevated craftmanship and construction,” Pl. Mot. for PI at 15, but
that observation is not backed by the evidence and certainly does not support an ascertainable
market. Brands across the spectrum use a variety of non-leather materials (including nylon,
canvas, and raffia) as well as leather. Moreover, Defendants’ handbags use the same types of
leather and craftmanship as the higher and lower priced handbags against which they compete.50
Similarly, Plaintiff has no evidence to differentiate Lululemon nylon from Tumi nylon from Prada
nylon. .51
47
48
Ex. 17, Gennette Rep. ¶¶ 26, 94-103; Ex. 1,
Giberson Rep. ¶¶ 16(c), 22-28.
49
50
Ex. 1, Giberson Rep. ¶¶ 60, 66-68; Ex. 41,
51
. Tellingly, Lululemon is not tracked by NPD, which
classifies Tumi as “contemporary” and Prada as “designer.”
22
Plaintiff’s claim that Macy’s placement of Defendants’ brands in a “designer” category is
proof they are higher quality, Pl. Mot. for PI at 15, is misleading.
.52
53
Kate Spade’s
Unique Production Facilities. Since its Complaint, Plaintiff has attempted to perpetuate
a claim that “luxury” products are made in Europe, “mass market” products are made in China and
“accessible luxury” products are made in “Asia”—or, as it now claims “off shore Asia,” which
results in higher quality than mass market. But there are no consistent differences in where the
brands Plaintiff categorizes as “luxury,” “accessible luxury,” and “mass market” manufacture
handbags. .55
56
.57
58
52
53
54
See also Ex. 17, Gennette Rep. at ¶¶ 94-103 (showing how retailers group brands Dr. Smith
considers “accessible luxury,” with “Better” and “Moderate” brands).
55
56
57
58
23
59
60
Even brands
that Plaintiff deems “mass market,” such as Zara, spread their production across three continents,
including Europe.61
Distinct Customers. Plaintiff cannot show that “accessible luxury handbags” have distinct
customers separate from “mass market” and “luxury” customers.62 Defendants sell handbags to a
.63
64
There is also no support for the notion that the parties’
59
60
61
Ex. 48, Inditex (Zara) has suppliers and factories in Spain, Portugal, Morocco, Turkey, India,
Bangladesh, Pakistan, Vietnam, China, and Cambodia. “Inditex Group Annual Report 2023,”
Inditex, available at https://static.inditex.com/annual_report_2023/en/Inditex_Group_Annual_
Accounts 2023.pdf, at p. 287.
62
Plaintiff did not define a market based on a targeted customer-type—i.e., “the sale of accessible
luxury handbags customers with a household income of less than $100,000.” Plaintiff has done
this in many other cases, but not here. See, e.g., FTC v. Sysco Corp., 113 F. Supp. 3d 1, 39 (2015)
(finding a market for “broadline distribution services sold to National Customers”).
63
64
24
.65
66
.67
Distinct Prices. Plaintiff also will not be able to carry its burden to show that “accessible
luxury” handbags have distinct prices warranting a separate market between lower and higher-end
products. On the low end, Plaintiff tellingly does not even pay lip service in its brief to its claim
that handbags priced below “accessible luxury” are sold at distinct prices. Instead, Plaintiff
contends the Parties “generally focus their offerings on an opening price point of $100.” Pl. Mot.
for PI at 13. This carefully worded sentence—focusing on “opening price points” rather than
actual “point-of-sale price points”—is a red herring because the majority of Kate Spade and
Michael Kors handbags are sold below $100.68 If Defendants routinely sell handbags below $100,
then even if Plaintiff’s claim of an “accessible luxury” market were valid, this case would be over
65
66
67
68
See Ex. 23, Scott Morton Rep. (Aug. 7, 2024) at 81 (showing that in 2023, 63.6% of Michael
Kors bags sold as a share of total units and 51.0% of Kate Spade bags as a share of total units was
in the $50 to $100 range).
25
because the Defendants’ brands would not properly be part of that market. In any event, excluding
bags priced below $100 from the relevant market artificially removes many competitors,69
rejects applying a price range to the “accessible luxury” market, further undermining the concept.
On the high end, Plaintiff’s claim of “distinct pricing” and distinct discounting practices is
vacuous. Plaintiff does not cite a single piece of actual pricing data in its pre-trial brief to support
its claim of “distinct prices.” Plaintiff has not done the work to prove this point—nor can it: the
evidence will show that “accessible luxury” brands like Tory Burch, Khaite, and MCM (which
NPD characterizes as “bridge” or “contemporary”) sell products above $1000 and “luxury” brands
like Burberry, Yves Saint Laurent, and Louis Vuitton all offer handbags below $1000, and these
and others, including Bottega Veneta, Celine, and Gucci, sell discounted handbags at their outlet
stores priced well below $1000.71 It will also show that many brands which Dr. Smith classifies
as “accessible luxury” choose not to sell their handbags at discounts through discount wholesalers
72
69
Ex. 1, Giberson Rep., Exhibit C (listing another 97 brands that offer handbags with retail prices
starting below $100).
70
71
Ex. 2, Giberson Rep.,
Exhibit C (featuring sample of handbags from Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Cartier,
Celine, Chloe, Fendi, Ferragamo, LVMH, and others that are below $1000).
72
26
In Brown Shoe, the Court rejected an argument that “medium-priced shoes” did not
compete with “low-priced shoes,” noting it “would be unrealistic” to conclude that “men’s shoes
selling below $8.99 are in a different product market from those selling above $9.00.” Brown
Shoe, 370 U.S. at 326. So too here: it is just as unrealistic to say that a $90 Calvin Klein does not
compete with a $95 Michael Kors handbag, but that $95 Michael Kors handbag does compete with
a $500 Tory Burch handbag. Yet that is exactly what Plaintiff asks this Court conclude. Citing
Brown Shoe, courts have thus repeatedly observed that where, as here, pricing and quality varies
meaningless where the differences are actually a spectrum of price and quality differences.” In re
Super Premium Ice Cream Litig., 691 F. Supp. 1262, 1268 (N.D. Cal. 1988), aff’d sub nom.
Haagen-Dazs Co. v. Double Rainbow Gourmet Ice Creams, Inc., 895 F.2d 1417 (Table), 1990 WL
This is especially the case in cases involving differentiated products (like handbags), in
which competition occurs across dimensions other than price. Haagen-Dazs, 1990 WL 12148, at
73
See e.g., Murrow Furniture Galleries, Inc. v. Thomasville Furniture Indus., Inc., 889 F.2d 524,
528 (4th Cir. 1989) (rejecting a market definition of “name-brand” or “better branded” furniture);
Ron Tonkin Grand Turismo v. Fiat, 637 F.2d 1376, 1379-80 (9th Cir. 1981) (affirming rejection
of proposed market consisting only of Fiat cars in favor of “cars in general” because there was
“nothing so special about a Fiat that a prospective purchaser will refuse to buy a Datsun or
Chevette, no matter what the price of a Fiat”); Beatrice Foods Co. v. FTC, 540 F.2d 303, 310 (7th
Cir. 1976) (rejecting submarkets of “professional” and “do-it-yourself” paint brushes and rollers
where the “record does not support any contention that higher-priced brushes and rollers are
particularly suitable for uses in which lower-priced articles are unacceptable” or “that lower-priced
and higher-priced items are marketed and sold to distinct groups of customers.”); JBL Enterprises
v. Jhirmack Enterprises, Inc., 509 F. Supp. 357, 369-76 (N.D. Cal. 1981) (rejecting a relevant
submarket limited to sales of shampoo and conditioners through salons and other professional
outlets in favor of one comprising the sales of all beauty products through all professional outlets);
United States v. Jos. Schlitz Brewing Co., 253 F. Supp. 129, 145-46 (N.D. Cal. 1966) (rejecting
submarket of premium beers because “beer prices range over a wide spectrum” and thus there was
“no rational way of choosing a point along this price spectrum”), aff’d, 385 U.S. 37 (1967).
27
*3 (“Courts have repeatedly rejected efforts to define markets by price variances or product quality
variances” because “differentiated products face intense competition from other brands of the same
product”). Handbags are the classic “differentiated product” and Plaintiff provides no reason to
depart from this settled line of cases.74 See generally, United States v. Oracle Corp., 331 F.
Supp.2d 1098, 1123 (N.D. Cal. 2004) (“A presumption of anticompetitive effects from a combined
share of 35% in a differentiated products market is unwarranted. Indeed, the opposite is likely true.
To prevail on a differentiated products unilateral effects claim, a plaintiff must prove a relevant
market in which the merging parties would have essentially a monopoly or dominant position.”).
Plaintiff argues that the hypothetical monopolist test (“HMT”) conducted by Dr. Smith
“confirms” that “accessible luxury” is an appropriate relevant market. Pl. Mot. for PI at 20.75 Dr.
Smith’s HMT appears to be the only quantitative analysis Plaintiff will put forth in this case to
support its market definition. Based on our research, no court has ever found a party to have
satisfied its burden to establish a relevant market for Section 7 purposes when that party’s expert
74
Plaintiff’s cited cases are not to the contrary. For example, in Lancaster Colony, the parties did
not argue—and the court never addressed—whether glassware was priced on a spectrum, and the
court held that low or moderately-priced glassware was in a different market than higher-priced
and other forms of glassware primarily due to their “different use characteristics.” 434 F. Supp.
1088, 1093 (S.D.N.Y. 1977). Similarly, Geneva Pharmaceuticals did not involve products priced
on a spectrum, and instead addressed pricing differences between two highly regulated
pharmaceutical drugs. 386 F.3d 485, 496-97 (2d Cir. 2004). Reynolds Metals likewise involved
pricing that did not occur on a spectrum, and moreover, the court based its holding not only on
evidence of distinct pricing, but also on distinct customers. 309 F.2d 223, 228-29 (D.C. Cir. 1962).
75
As the FTC notes, the HMT looks to whether a hypothetical monopolist of the products within
a candidate market could profitability impose a small but significant and non-transitory increase
in price (generally 5% or 10%) or other worsening of terms. Pl. Mot. for PI at 20-21. If the
hypothetical monopolist could profitably raise prices in the candidate market, then that market
constitutes a relevant product market exists for antitrust purposes. Pl. Mot. for PI at 20-21.
28
A threshold problem with Plaintiff’s reliance on Dr. Smith’s HMT as “confirmation” for
its proposed “accessible luxury handbag” market, is that Dr. Smith did not run his HMT on the
market that the Plaintiff identifies through its analysis of Brown Shoe factors. Instead, Dr. Smith
ran his HMT on his “NPD bridge/contemporary handbag” version of the market, meaning it is
limited to brands that NPD designated as “bridge” and “contemporary.” Pl. Mot. for PI at 20. This
is problematic in several respects. First, Plaintiff’s claim that Defendants use NPD in the ordinary
.76 Second, NPD did not qualify the brands “bridge” and “contemporary”
as constituting “accessible luxury” brands, and neither Plaintiff nor Dr. Smith did any inquiry to
understand how NPD makes its classifications.77 If NPD’s classifications were so critical to Dr.
Smith’s analysis, one would expect the FTC to offer evidence of NPD’s processes and choices,
but Plaintiff never even sought a subpoena or deposition testimony. Third and most troubling,
neither Plaintiff nor Dr. Smith did any analysis as to whether the brands identified as “bridge” and
“contemporary” by NPD were a relevant market under the Brown Shoe factors. Any assertion that
Dr. Smith’s HMT confirms Plaintiff’s “accessible luxury handbag” submarket is a non-sequitur.78
76
77
Ex. 1, Giberson Rep. ¶¶ 29-30, 43-63; Ex. 17, Gennette Rep. ¶¶ 94-103.
78
Dr. Smith defends his decision to treat NPD’s listings of “bridge” and “contemporary” as
constituting the brands in the “accessible luxury” market based on the fact that in a market sizing
model, Tapestry identifies “bridge” and “contemporary” brands as “accessible luxury.” Pl. Mot.
for PI at 21. Nowhere in Tapestry’s model does it ever reference an “accessible luxury” category,
let alone assert that NPD’s “bridge” and “contemporary” categories constitute an “accessible
luxury” market. Dr. Smith is relying on a stray sentence in a 2021 cover email transmitting the
2021 model. That is not an acceptable basis for a serious economist to conclude that two
unexplained groupings of brands in a third-party data source constitute an antitrust market.
29
For the sake of argument only, even if Dr. Smith and Plaintiff are seeking to prove the same
“accessible luxury handbag” market, Dr. Smith’s HMT still does not support Plaintiff’s “accessible
luxury” market. That is because, as Plaintiff acknowledges, Dr. Smith’s conclusion that
“accessible luxury” satisfies the hypothetical monopolist test is based on his calculation of
aggregate diversion ratios. Pl. Mot. for PI at 21; Ex. 3, Smith Rep. at ¶102. As merger cases have
product. In other words, diversion measures to what extent consumers of a given product will
switch (or be ‘diverted’) to other products in response to a price increase in the given product.”
United States v. H&R Block, Inc., 833 F. Supp. 2d 36, 62 (D.D.C. 2011). However, Dr. Smith
never actually measured diversion, which makes his ratios—and hence his HMT—completely
unreliable.
While the concept of diversion ratios may appear complicated, the reason Dr. Smith’s
analysis cannot support his conclusions is simple. Dr. Smith concluded that in response to an
increase in price of Coach, Kate Spade or Michael Kors, customers would divert to the other two
products in sufficient numbers that his candidate market passes his HMT. Pl. Mot. for PI at 20,
222.
79
30
In H&R Block, the court rejected the parties’ expert’s attempt in a merger challenge to
calculate diversion ratios and define the relevant market based on survey data that provided
respondents with a pre-selected list of alternative options and only asked them about what products
they would switch to if they became dissatisfied with their current tax preparation method. 833 F.
Supp. 2d at 70-71. Indeed, the government sought to exclude the analysis from the hearing,
arguing that “a survey must ask the right question in order to have evidentiary value” and because
the survey questions did “not reflect customer response to market changes at all [] its responses
cannot be used as evidence of the diversion ratio.” Ex. 36, Pl.’s Mem. of P. & A. in Supp. of Pl.’s
Mot. in Limine at 5, H&R Block, No. 11-cv-00948-BAH (D.D.C. Aug. 24, 2011), ECF No. 67.
render his diversion ratio analysis and HMT meaningless. See Scott Morton Rep. at Section V.B.
Because all of Dr. Smith’s other analyses, including his merger simulation, rely on this diversion
analysis, they likewise cannot be relied upon. See Scott Morton Rep. at Section VIII.E.
This is not the first time Dr. Smith has attempted to calculate diversion ratios to establish
a relevant market in an antitrust merger case. Dr. Smith was retained by the FTC once before, in
FTC v. Thomas Jefferson University, 505 F. Supp. 3d 522 (E.D. Pa. 2020), which is the only other
31
merger challenge in which he ever testified. In that case, the court reviewed and roundly criticized
Dr. Smith’s attempt to define a relevant market based on his diversion ratio analysis, noting, “Dr.
Smith’s diversion ratios imperfectly capture all the factors underlying patient ‘choices’ and insurer
responses in the rehabilitation context.” Id. at 553-54. Without economic support, the court held
the FTC failed to properly define a relevant market, could not establish a likelihood of success on
the merits, and denied the FTC’s motion for a preliminary injunction. Id. at 558. Dr. Smith’s
diversion analysis is even more faulty, and requires the same outcome.80
Unable to establish a relevant market, Plaintiff radically argues that the elimination of
“head-to-head competition between close competitors” provides an independent basis to block the
transaction. Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors do not compete with each other any more
“closely” than they do with many other brands, but regardless, that is not the law. Plaintiff cites
no case to support the proposition that it can evade market definition and obtain a preliminary
injunction without proving a relevant market. The Court should reject Plaintiff’s request that it be
the first.
As discussed supra, it is settled black letter law that as “necessary predicate” to a Section
7 claim, Plaintiff must show that a transaction is likely to substantially reduce competition in a
relevant market. United States v. E.I. du Pont de Nemours Co., 353 U.S. 586, 593 (1957). The
fact that the Plaintiff is the FTC in a Section 13(b) action does not change the legal elements of a
80
Plaintiff also radically argues that Dr. Smith’s analysis also shows that “the Defendants’
accessible luxury handbag brands by themselves satisfy the HMT, demonstrating the existence of
a relevant product market that is limited to Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors handbags.” (Pl.
Mot. for PI at 21-22). This analysis is likewise based on Dr. Smith’s diversion ratios and must be
rejected for the same reasons noted above. See Arch Coal, Inc., 329 F. Supp. 2d at 121.
32
Section 7 claim. See, e.g., FTC v. Freeman Hosp., 69 F.3d 260, 268 (8th Cir. 1985); Thomas
Jefferson Univ., 505 F. Supp. 3d at 539 (in determining if the FTC has met its burden in a Section
13(b) merger challenge, “it is first necessary to determine the relevant geographic and product
markets”). Every case Plaintiff cites to advance its novel position confirms that the law requires
finding a relevant market before analyzing anticompetitive effects.81 These cases provide no
support for Plaintiff’s claim that this Court can eschew market definition under step one. Plaintiff’s
citation to the recent aspirational policy announcement of the current administration in the recently
published Horizontal Merger Guideline 2.2—which is in direct conflict with Supreme Court
Plaintiff’s failure to establish it prima facie case ends the analysis. But even if Plaintiff
does meet its burden under the first prong, Defendants can rebut that case by demonstrating that
the Government’s prima facie case and “statistics on market share, market concentration, and
market concentration trends inaccurately predicts the merger’s probable effects on competition.”
Baker Hughes, 908 F.2d at 991 (cleaned up); see id. (“market share” does not always translate to
“market power, which is the ultimate consideration” in whether a defendant can rebut a plaintiff’s
81
See Sysco Corp., 113 F. Supp. 3d at 24 (“Merger analysis starts with defining the relevant
market.”); IQVIA, 2024 WL 81232, at *11 (“For the FTC to make out a prima facie case, it must
define a relevant market . . . .”); Whole Foods, 548 F.3d at 1036 (rejecting the FTC’s argument
that “a market definition is not necessary in a § 7 case,” noting that “the framework we have
developed for a prima facie § 7 case rests on defining a market and showing undue concentration
in [a relevant] market”); United States v. Mfrs. Hanover Trust Co., 240 F. Supp. 867, 902
(S.D.N.Y. 1965) (holding that “proof of the competitive structure of each of them lie at the very
threshold of the government’s burden of proof” and defining relevant markets).
82
No court has cited the 2023 Horizontal Merger Guidelines as persuasive authority. Olin Corp.
v. FTC, 986 F.2d 1295, 1300 (9th Cir. 1993) (“Certainly the Guidelines are not binding on the
courts, or for that matter, on the Commission.” (citation omitted)).
33
prima facie showing). The standard for the quantum of evidence defendants must produce to shift
the burden back is relatively low particularly where, as here, the Plaintiff’s prima facie case is
weak. Arch Coal, 329 F. Supp. 2d at 129 (“Certainly less of a showing is required from defendants
Plaintiff’s market share statistics overstate the transaction’s potential competitive effects
because competitors can (and already do) quickly enter, expand, and reposition. These facts
confirm that there is an “absence of significant barriers [to entry]” and—notwithstanding there is
supracompetitive pricing for any length of time.” Baker Hughes, 908 F.2d at 987.
Plaintiff’s position has consistently been that entry must be of the size and scale to replace
Michael Kors’ footprint today. Pl. Mot. at 30. No authority supports this position. Plaintiff’s lone
citation to Chicago Bridge makes clear that the question is whether remaining and potential
competitors have the collective ability “to constrain supracompetitive prices.” Chi. Bridge & Iron
Co. N.V. v. FTC, 534 F.3d 410, 429 (5th Cir. 2008); see also United States v. Waste Mgmt., Inc.,
743 F.2d 976, 982-83 (2d Cir. 1984) (reversing finding of Section 7 liability based on potential for
entry where firms had a combined 48.8% share of the relevant market, but where barriers to entry
were sufficiently low such that easy of entry constrained every firm in the market). The issue
therefore is whether competitors exist to collectively produce enough output to constrain price
increases and that, in turn, requires analyzing whether there are barriers to entering the market or
scaling production to offset price increases. Where, as here, such barriers do not exist, there is an
34
Here, entry is constant and relatively easy.83 DTC e-commerce platforms allow a designer
.85
Moreover, most handbag producers rely on contract manufacturers to make their bags and these
third-party manufacturers are readily available to new entrants.86 And wholesalers such as Macy’s
.88
.89
90
91
83
84
85
86
Ex. 1, Giberson Rep. ¶¶ 86-95.
87
Ex. 17, Gennette Rep. ¶¶ 40-59.
88
89
90
91
35
92
There are countless more examples.93
Plaintiff’s market shares are also not indicative of an antitrust issue because Plaintiff’s
entire theory in challenging this transaction rests on a fallacy that, after the merger, Tapestry
intends to eliminate competition among Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors, including as to
setting prices, discounting, product development, and wholesaler negotiations. That is not true.
Tapestry has no incentive or plans to merge the brands, share pricing information between the
92
93
94
36
which assume consolidation of the brands—“produce an inaccurate account of the merger’s
probable effects on competition in the relevant market,” Arch Coal, 329 F. Supp. 2d at 116.
competitive effects, Plaintiff and Dr. Smith conduct a static analysis that presumes the sales of
Michael Kors handbags remain stagnant. There is no support for that assumption.96 Plaintiff’s
concentration statistics fail to accurately portray the merging company’s weak competitive stature
given the merged entity’s declining competitive significance. United States v. Gen. Dynamics
Corp., 415 U.S. 486, 497-98 (1974); Baker Hughes, 908 F.2d at 986.
.97
Plaintiff attempts to foreclose this argument by arguing this evidence must meet the formal
elements of an efficiencies defense to be considered by this Court. Pl. Mot. for PI at 33-34. That
is incorrect. Defendants’ point here is not that the Court should clear the transaction on the basis
of an efficiencies defense. The question under the second prong of the burden-shifting inquiry is
whether Defendants have met Plaintiff’s prima facie case with evidence that suggests Plaintiff is
95
96
97
37
overstating the transaction’s likely anticompetitive effects. Viewed through this lens, Defendants’
position is that the evidence on the deal rationale combined with the other evidence discussed
herein demonstrates such an overstatement. See Baker Hughes, 908 F.2d at 990-92.
Plaintiff must prove that it is likely to prevail on the merits of its claim that the transaction
is likely to have substantial anticompetitive effects in a relevant market; the elimination of some
head-to-head competition and “some lessening of competition” is not sufficient under the law.
Int’l Shoe, 280 U.S. at 298 (noting that Section 7 “deals only with such acquisitions as probably
will result in lessening competition to a substantial degree”). This means Plaintiff must put
forward a defensible, “forward-looking analysis” which proves that the acquirer likely will raise
prices post-merger. U.S. v. Sabre Corp., 452 F. Supp. 3d 97, 146 (2020).
Plaintiff’s pre-trial brief says nothing on this issue. The lone economic evidence that
Plaintiff appears to be relying on to support its claim is Dr. Smith’s projection that the transaction
will result in as much as a 30% price increase on Michael Kors handbags. Pl. Mot. for PI at 21.
As trial will show, there are numerous errors with this projection. First, as noted above, Dr.
Smith’s projected price increases are based on his HMT analysis, which is founded on his faulty
diversion ratios. And because of that, Dr. Smith cannot conclude it would be profitable for Michael
Kors to raise price post-acquisition. Dr. Smith’s attempt to salvage that analysis with his merger
simulation model fares no better, since it likewise is reliant on his faulty diversion ratios.
Second, for Plaintiff’s theory to be true, this Court must believe that Coach and Kate Spade
are the primary constraints on Michael Kors pricing today. There is no factual evidence to support
that view. Normally, when the government prevails in a case projecting a post-closing price
increase, the record contains evidence showing that each merging party is unable to profitably raise
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price currently due to competition from the other.98 That does not exist here. The record similarly
lacks the usual evidence of customers or competitors worried about post-closing conduct.
Third, given Plaintiff concedes there are 238 competitors even in its narrow market and
has not put forward evidence to show these competitors cannot meet demand, it is factually
implausible to suggest that Tapestry could acquire Michael Kors tomorrow, impose as much as a
30% mark-up, and consumers would accept that increase. Consumers have hundreds of choices
they can turn to if they do not want to pay the price that Defendants or any brand offers.
To determine whether to grant a preliminary injunction under section 13(b), a court must
balance the equities. FTC v. Weyerhaeuser Co., 665 F.2d 1072, 1083 (D.C. Cir. 1981). The kinds
of equities that may be considered “[are] not qualified” by the statute. Id.
The equities favor denying injunctive relief here. Plaintiff has had a year to develop its
case, but has remained blind to the evidence. After a nine-month investigation, Plaintiff filed a
lawsuit based on cherry-picked document excerpts and without deposing a single customer or
competitor. Plaintiff bases its market share calculations on assumptions made by NPD, but it
refused to obtain discovery from NPD. Faced with data and document productions from
wholesalers and competitors, Dr. Smith excluded the vast majority of that data in his market share
analysis. And in a case where Plaintiff’s economist relies entirely on a years-old survey that asks
98
See, e.g., United States v Bazaarvoice, Inc., No. 13-133-WHO, 2014 WL 203966, *54-55 (N.D.
Cal. Jan. 8, 2014) (citing documents and data showing the merging parties competed head-to-head
for opportunities); Sysco Corp., 113 F. Supp. 3d at 61-65 (same).
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the wrong questions to support both its market definition and its competitive effects analysis,
Tapestry’s acquisition will benefit Capri’s customers and especially the current and future
consumers of Michael Kors bands. Tapestry will restore the brand’s health, improve the value of
Michael Kors handbags, and re-engage with the Michael Kors consumers to give them the Michael
Kors handbags they want. Because of the lengthy time required to go through the administrative
litigation process, granting an injunction will necessarily kill the deal, robbing consumers of the
procompetitive advantages resulting from this merger. See, e.g., Arch Coal, 329 F. Supp. 2d at
160. Where, as here, “the harm to defendants is great and there is little likelihood that
consummation of the merger would jeopardize ultimate relief, the court clearly may deny
injunctive relief.” United States v. Siemens Corp., 621 F.2d 499, 506 (2d Cir. 1980).100
CONCLUSION
99
Plaintiff has conducted a survey when it wants to and, presumably, when the facts support its
theory. See, e.g., Ex. 64, Mem. of P. & A. in Supp. of Mot. for a Prelim. Inj. at 15, FTC v. Meta
Platforms, Inc., No. 5:22-cv-04325 (N.D. Cal. Oct. 31, 2022), ECF No. 164 (citing a consumer
survey that the FTC’s expert conducted).
100
Contrary to Plaintiff’s assertion (Pl. Mot. For PI at 34-35), Tapestry’s acquisition of Capri does
not implicate the “principal” “public equity consideration [that Congress had] in mind when it
enacted section 13(b),” which is the need to maintain the pre-merger “status quo” so that the FTC
can award effective relief if it succeeds on the merits. FTC v. H.J. Heinz Co., 246 F.3d 708, 726
(D.C. Cir. 2001). The typical concern that an acquirer will “scramble the eggs” that the FTC
worries about post-closing does not exist here. The evidence will show that Tapestry’s practice
with its acquisitions of Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman has been to maintain them as separate,
standalone businesses, which it will also do here. Plaintiff can still seek to rescind the deal via its
administrative litigation process if it proposes to do so; an injunction does not preclude it from
going down that path.
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Dated: August 20, 2024 Respectfully submitted,
Lawrence E. Buterman
LATHAM & WAKINS LLP
1271 Avenue of the Americas
New York, NY 10020
Telephone: (212) 906-1200
Facsimile: (212) 751-4864
[email protected]
101
Electronic signatures used with consent in accordance with Rule 8.5(b) of the Court’s ECF
Rules and Instructions.
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