How To Make A Corset
How To Make A Corset
1 Introduction
1.1 Corset fit
Generally a corset should reduce the waist by about four inches, but it really depends on your size and build. My estimate is that the practical range of reduction for periodic wear (as opposed to "corset-training" for permanent reduction) is approximately ten (for minimal reduction and total comfort) to perhaps twenty percent (pain is beauty...) of the natural waist measurement. If you don't have experience wearing a corset, start with something less extreme.
Also, take 5 minutes and sew up a sleeveless high-thigh length tunic out of some scrap cloth; saran-wrap is not worth the trouble and will give poor results, or just put on the t-shirt off course. Use the babypowder on the uncovered areas. Also wear your most comfortable bra and panties when wrapping. If you plan on wearing the corset over pants, wear pants. Otherwise, don't.
5.4 A few more hints (the rest you'll have to pick up from trial and error):
When you're going to reduce or enlarge an area on the corset, draw in the cutting lines before you cut. Always redraw your measurement lines whenever you tape over them. Only reduce the waist between the lines for the high hips and the bottom of the rib cage. When reducing the waist, diagonal cuts work best. 99 times out of 100, you'll need to enlarge the butt of the duct tape form. Do this by inserting one or two triangular gores slightly outside of the center of each butt cheek (about 3-5 inches to the right or left of the center back, just where your butt is starting to curve around to become your hips) with the point of the triangle at the waist line, and the base of the triangle at the bottom line of the corset.
5.4.1 After you have altered the duct tape form: If you altered both halves, tape them together along the back center and try it on. You won't be able to check it exactly because of the waist reduction, but you'll get a pretty good idea. Keep in mind that as you cinch your waist it moves lower. Separate the two halves again. If you've already figured out where you want the seams to lie (for example, if you're copying an extant corset) you can just sketch them onto the duct tape and cut out the pieces. If you haven't figured out where the seams are going to lie, you can sketch on the duct tape and figure out what looks best. There's a whole science to figuring out where the seams should be--you'll just have to wait for the book to come out. I'll leave you with this hint: make sure each pattern piece lies flat when you cut it out of the duct tape. (Or rather, can be flattened.) If the piece can't be flattened, just tape it back onto the duct tape half and redraw the seam line, then re-cut. This all sounds like a lot of work, but it will save you hours and hours of drafting and muslin-making and draping and fitting and pinning and recutting and tearing out and resewing.
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FRONT (person standing, you sitting on a chair) The pelvis The lowest line of the ribcage Just below the breast
FRONT (person sitting upright on a chair with no armrest if possible) SIDE Mark the top of the pelvis Mark the lowest part of the ribcage Mark on the pelvis, just above the upper leg, where the upper leg enters the body Mark 2 (5 cm) above the pubic bone
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FRONT (person standing, you sitting on a chair) Mark the lowest point you want the corset to be, just above the pubic bone Mark the highest point you want the corset to be, start in the middle in between the breasts, then slightly lower under each breast. You can draw a (horizontal) line, or use painters tape.
FRONT (person sitting, you opposite on knees) Mark on the pelvis, a few inches above each leg, with the purpose of allowing the person to sit without the corset sticking in her legs. SIDE (person sitting on a chair, you on knees sideways) Mark a line, connecting the front and the back lowest points. Make sure that you leave the hip/leg partly free so sitting is not hampered.
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7.1 Fabric
The best kind of fabric you can use is Coutil, but Coutil is EXPENSIVE, and worth it, so I don't want to risk wasting any of it. So if you're just getting into corset-making, you may want to make a few corsets out of alternative AUS $3-$8 cloth first. Here's what to look for in alternative cloth: 1 Natural fibers. This pretty much translates to cotton, as linen is too stretchy, wool isn't that comfortable unless you spend a LOT on it, and heavyweight silk is expensive. Natural fibers are the most desirable, also because as they breathe better and are more absorbent. When choosing a fabric you should take into account how well it will hold a crease when pressed, (as it makes sewing easier) and how much it stretches. Avoid polyester like the plague. 2 Medium-heavy weight. Think pants weight; lighter, and it will wrinkle, even if it is strong enough, and heavier and it'll get too bulky and stiff 3 Perpendicular weaves. The threads should cross at right angles--this means that twill is NOT a good corset fabric, though it's ok for making a test corset that you'll only wear long enough to see if the pattern works. Twill screws up graining, and it will 'skew' the longer you wear it. Or, if you can find it, 4 Herringbone weaves. You probably know what this looks like, but I'll explain it anyway. Picture a narrow strip of twill going one way, then another strip right beside it going the other way, and so on. The weave looks basically like this: \/\/\/\/\/ \/\/\/\/\/ \/\/\/\/\/ 5 It IS possible to find a herringbone weave at a normal cloth store, although it requires luck and you may have to look for it for a month or two. But I have found a 100% cotton herringbone weave in the denim section several times. 6 Also, try these sections of the cloth store: - Upholstery/decorating: Weights are great for durability, although patterned fabrics are generally scaled too large to be appropriate.
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On most fabrics the lengthwise threads are stronger, and there are more of them. Most garment patterns are marked with vertical grain line, because to hang properly they need the strength vertically. With corsets the strongest part of the fabric needs to run horizontally around your body to bear the tension of lacing. If you have used my instructions for making a corset pattern you have marked your grain lines running horizontally on the pattern. If you are using a purchased corset pattern it probably uses vertical grain lines, which may make my directions confusing. Just remember, regardless of how the lines are marked on the pattern you are using, orient them so that the strongest (least stretchy) direction of the fabric runs horizontally to bear the tension. The best way to cut the pattern is to cut each piece separately, and to use a rotary cutter. This needs to be done very meticulously!!! But keep in mind that inconsistencies in the way the pieces are cut can affect the finished product. And the more panels you use the more dramatic this effect can be. If you lack the patience for this you may cut all lining and all fashion fabric at once (I find that, despite the changes that can occur in cutting multiple layers of fabric - from fabric shifting or the blades cutting at an angle through the fabric - that I create even more variance in separately drafting each piece if I am not in a patient mood). If you do this make sure your scissors (or rotary blade) are sharp! If you wish to cheat and cut all the pieces out at once see the following illustrations. Note that these illustrations show the selvage oriented for canvas. The selvage on your lining fabric may be oriented differently, depending on which direction the weave of your fabric is strongest.
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Illustration 'A'
Illustration 'B'
7.2.2 Laying out corset patterns Most pieces will have a seam allowance of 5/8 inch (15 mm) added to each side, so allow adequate spacing for this. The inside edge of each center front piece will have 1 inch (25 mm) added, for inserting and anchoring the busk. Center back will need about 1 1/2 to 2 inches (37 to 50 mm) allowance (enough for width of eyelets/grommets to be used if you are using those -, plus width for two strips of boning, and a little extra to anchor raw edge in the last seam of the second boning channel) If you need wider allowance for larger eyelets, or if you wish to make corset slightly tighter all over than you could fit the pattern (for tighter lacing), you should plan to add to or subtract from this amount accordingly. If you wish to reverse the direction of some pieces to conserve fabric you may, unless you are using velvet or fabric with a one-way pattern. If using self-fabric for boning casing, strips should be about 1 1/2 inches (37 mm) wide. These will be cut with grain, and self-fabric bias binding for tops and bottoms should be about 1 1/4 inches (33 mm) wide and will be cut diagonally to grain. 7.2.3 Transferring corset pattern to fabric As close to the edge and as accurately as possible, trace the outline of each piece with a sharp fabric pencil (this will be where each piece is stitched, but these lines will not be needed after you have added the seam allowance and cut out the pieces). Mark lines for waist, top, and bottom matching lines by starting line at pattern edge. Rather than continuing line at the angle at which it intersects panel piece you will instead draw it out at an angle perpendicular to edge of fabric. * This way if you are matching up two pieces whose edges curve differently, the matching lines will still meet up accurately at the stitching line. Also transfer busk top and bottom lines on center front pieces on the wrong side of lining fabric.
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If you dont have access to corset making supplies it is the case to improvise as good as possible: Busk: very handy to get the corset on and off, but if you cant find one, just dont use it. Instead I put some extra boning in the center front of the corset. Boning: Well this is quite a basic part of a corset so how to solve this problem? As I did some research I found out that in Elizabethan era as well as in some Victorian corsets rope-boning was used. This consisted basically of many small boning-channels next to each other that were stuffed with stiff pieces of hemp cord. Now I thought hemp wouldnt be sturdy enough so when some one tipped me about curtain wire I used that instead. And it worked! Grommets or eyelets: I couldnt find grommets and also didnt want to damage the fabric by puncturing it. My solution was to sew in sturdy cotton (twill tape) loops at either side of the corset back. With about 3 stichlines it can never be pulled off and allowes for normal lacing without damaging the laces or the corset fabric.
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9.1.2 Waist reinforcement A strip of twill tape or grosgrain ribbon can be run along the waistline to reduce tension on the fabric. The more severely the waist comes in the narrower the ribbon should be. Position tape, centering over waistline. End of tape should go to front and back edges of fabric. Then, using a large stitch, stitch down the center of the ribbon. There should be some tension on fabric and ribbon as you stitch, but don't pull ribbon too tightly or it will dig into your waist. Gently pull on the lining at the centerline, one panel ahead of where you are stitching, and keep the ribbon centered over line. If you didn't re-mark line on wrong side use notches as guide. Do this on both halves of the corset. Compare both sides of corset to make sure they match. If they do, re-stitch on a smaller stitch. Then, stitch one edge of ribbon down. Boning will be inserted from this direction, so it won't catch under the edge of the tape. Notching seams Seams with strong curves to them should be notched to make them lay smoother. Don't notch more than halfway into the seam allowance. Press seams again after notching.
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9.2 Outside
You should pin (or baste on largest stitch - staying within seam allowance) each fashion fabric to its' backing, being certain that edges line up. Then match up fabrics as you did for the lining, and stitch, carefully matching up edges of fabric. As you are now stitching through four layers at a time this requires a bit more care. Press seams open, the same way that you did lining, and press the outside. If you are doing reinforced seams don't forget to topstitch the outside layer now. Notch seams if you did so on lining. 9.2.1 Connecting at center back Now place lining and outside layers together, right-sides-in, and stitch the center back edges together, at whatever allowance you calculated. If you are uncertain of the final fit and are using a fabric that can be damaged if stitching is removed, you may want to make the seam allowance smaller and take it in later if needed. You may want to place a new guide on your sewing machine to make sure your seam allowance is consistent, or mark in pencil first. Don't assume you'll be accurate just eyeballing it, especially with an allowance this wide. Do this with a stitch big enough that you will be able to rip out later if you need to make a fitting change. It will be topstitched later for reinforcement later. 9.2.2 Busk insertion Next, you need to attach the busk at the front center of each side. Determine which side of corset will be on the right side of the body. This side will have the eye portion of the busk. If you did not locate position of busk when making pattern, do so now on wrong side of lining fabric, in the seam allowance. Place busk on fabric and mark horizontal lines at the top and bottom of busk. Keep in mind that when finished, the surface where the eyes attach should be on the outside of corset, with the flat edge of the busk towards the body. Position eye portion of busk 1 inch in from center edge of fabric, and draw a vertical line one inch in down length of panel. Then mark horizontal lines at top and bottom edge of each eye. You will be stitching between eyes and leaving spaces at each eye open to insert busk through the layers of fabric. Place outside layer; face in (with it's backing underneath if you're using one), with the lining, wrong side out, on top. Carefully stitch along vertical line in between lines for eyes. I start from the waistline and work out to either edge like before. I start at the center of each space I'm going to stitch, stitch out to one edge, backstitch up to other edge, then back to middle, as this withstands the stress better. I find that reinforcement by
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Fold fabric right side out, press seams open, and insert the eyes through the holes. Check to see that busk fits in properly. Remove busk, and keep fabric right side out. You may place a row of topstitching just in from the edge of the fabric, leaving the same gaps open for the eyes, if you wish. Reinsert busk (and extra 1/2 inch wide boning if the busk was too short), and pin to keep it from slipping out. Then, using a zipper foot on the machine (which allows you to stitch right up against the edge of the busk), stitch the other side of the busk to anchor it. Keep even tension on the lining and outside fabric as you do this, and keep it as tight as you can so the busk won't rub or shift. This will be even more important when doing other side. Stitch slowly so you don't break your needle on the busk! To do left side, first stitch center edges of lining/outside layers 1 inch from edge, all the way from bottom to top. Press carefully at seam edge, and turn right side out. Topstitch just inside edge to reinforce, if desired. Lay left and right sides of corset next to each other and match up waist lines, and carefully turn over to right side, keeping halves lined up. Mark position of buttons by making a dot about 1/8 inch (the distance from edge of busk to center of button) in from the edge of seam inside each eye. Keep in mind that the seam edge will bear a lot of tension, and that if the eye holes are placed too far from, or too close to the edge, that the buttons may rip the fabric. Also, if the busk halves are not placed in exactly the same place on both sides it will skew the fit of the corset. Then, using your awl, make the holes for the buttons. Only make holes in the fashion fabric and backing, not the lining or it's seam allowance. Poke the tip of the awl through both layers of fabric and gently work the hole bigger. You want to simply spread the fibers apart, not break them, so take your time! Now insert the busk. Some fabrics will be difficult to insert the buttons through, the holes will close up, and the fibers may snag on the button. If this happens, put a drop of Fray-Check on the tip of the awl, and work it into the hole. This should make it easier. You may also want to pin he fabric next to each button as you go, or they may come out. Using the zipper foot again, stitch as close to the edge of the busk as you can.
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9.3.3 Double boning If you are doing two strips of boning for each seam (one on each side of seam), stitch about 3/8 from the seam on either side, allowing a little more room if using spiral boning or metal tips on flat boning.
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9.3.4 Improvised boning: curtain wire For this type of boning I suggest you use the double boning principle and sew some more channels at both sides of the seam. This way you create boning channels between the layers of fabric. These extra boning channels dont have to follow the seam, they can be sewn in curved or under an angle, according to your wishes. 9.3.5 Additional boning for bust support If you have a larger bust requiring additional support, diagonal strips of boning should be placed in panels at sides of breasts. Boning should start near top of corset towards front, and slant down towards the back. If it works with the style of corset you're making, I also recommend putting another strip of boning in the next panel towards the back. Start with the bottom of the strip meeting the bottom of the previous strip, and bring it up toward the back, so that they make a V shape. 1/2 boning should be used for this.
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10 Alternate method
Most of the steps are similar to the traditional method. Some may be slightly different, or done in a different order. Read traditional method instructions first for an understanding of the process, as some details explained previously will be referenced, but not repeated, below.
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After edges are bound, press the seams with the edges folded toward the back of the corset. Then, topstitch about 1/16 inch in from edge of seam, then stitch edges down about 3/8 inch from center seam (enough to allow boning to slide in easily) and insert boning in the channels this creates.
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11 References
Revivecorsets from the straightfrontcorsets group at yahoo, url: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/straightfrontcorsets/ Very complete guide to making corsets: url: http://www.waisted.com
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