Fabric Manufacturing - I Unit 1
Fabric Manufacturing - I Unit 1
2. PIRN WINDING: On shuttle looms weft is used in the form of pirn. Weft yarn is
wound on wooden or polymer bobbins. This package, called pirn, is then fitted at
its proper place in shuttle and run on the loom. The process of winding yarn on
bobbins is called pirn winding. Different types of pirn winding machine are
available with the features of automatic bobbin feeding and doffing systems.
Direct Warping machine: These are used to process normally fine, tender
and single ply yarns. In direct warping machines, the yarn from cone is wound
directly on the beam, called warper’s beam or back beam. These beams are
then fitted on the back side of sizing machine.
Sectional Warping machine: These are used to process normally strong
and plied yarns. In sectional warping machines, the yarn from cone is wound
on a drum in small sections and then all the sections are cumulatively wound
on weaver’s beam. These beams are generally not sized but can be sized as
and when required.
Ball Warping machine: These are used to process the yarn for denim
fabrics. Denim fabrics are prepared by indigo dyed warp and un-dyed weft
yarns. Normally on these machines the warp is initially wound in the form of
rope on a beam. This is called ball. These ball beams are then fitted on a
machine for dyeing and drying. The dyed rope is again spread out and wound
on warper’s beam in sheet form. Finally it is sized and wound on weaver’s
beam. Now-a-days a direct method of dyeing and sizing is also adopted.
SIZING:
The purpose of sizing is to impart the yarn a totality of physical and mechanical
properties necessary for its processing in weaving. The size applied on the yarn,
forms a film on the surface of the yarn, which binds the individual fibres together.
The size also penetrates inside the yarn and binds the fibres together. The object of
sizing is:
• Improve abrasion resistance of the yarn
• Reduce hairiness of the yarn
• Reduce generation of static charge for polyester blended yarns
• Improve breaking strength of the cellulose yarns.
DRAWING – IN: Drawing-in is the process of drawing individual warp ends through
healds and also drop pins (where required) whereas drawing the group of warp ends
through reed-dents is called Denting. The drawing & denting plan is given to the
drawer. According to the plan required no. of Heald frames, reed and drop pins are
put at their proper place. The reacher selects warp ends from the warp sheet and
takes upto the hook of drawer who draws them through drop-pins, healds and reed
dents.
Auto-reacher device is used to improve productivity. This requires only one
operative per drawing-in stand.
Automatic drawing-in machine is also used in some organizations. This is fully
computerized machine and has a very high productivity.
WEAVING TECHNOLOGY
CLASSIFICATION OF LOOMS
HANDLOOM POWERLOOM
MOTIONS OF LOOM
PRIMARY MOTION SECONDARY MOTION AUXILIARY MOTION
– In shuttleless looms different types of picking systems are being used such as
Gripper, Rapier, Air-jet, Water-jet etc. In fact the nomenclature of shuttleless
looms has been developed on the basis of their picking systems.
WEAVING TECHNOLOGY-
LOOMSHED
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TERMINOLOGIES RELATED TO WEAVING
End: Single longitudinal yarn in the warp sheet is known as ‘End’.
The group of ends in whole width is called warp sheet .
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Reed: It is a comb type device. The function of reed is to maintain
individual ends of the warp sheet parallel and also to maintain
the width of the fabric. This device also enable beating-up
action.
Shuttle: It is a device that carries weft yarn(Pick) to and fro
across the fabric width . It contains a spool of a weft yarn called
Pirn bobbin .
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Weft Preparation: It is an important process. In this the weft
yarn is wound on proper packages so that it may not break during
weaving.
There are two types of weft insertion systems namely shuttle and
shuttleless. For shuttle looms pirn is used to insert pick while in
shuttleless looms cones are used to insert weft pick.
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Objectives of Cone Winding:
The main objective of cone winding process is to obtain a larger
package from several small ring bobbins. The other objectives are:
• To remove objectionable faults from the yarn. The process of
removing such objectionable faults is called ‘yarn clearing’.
• To prepare cones/cheese having good drawing-off properties and
continuous long length of yarn.
• To achieve high machine efficiency and high production level at
subsequent stages.
• To apply Paraffin wax on the yarn as and where required.
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The principle objective of the
winding is to assemble long
length of yarn onto package
form suitable for subsequent
operations such as warping,
weaving and knitting.
The suitability of package is
adjudged by its ability to get
easily unwound at the high
speed and the wound yarn
should be free from
objectionable faults like very
thick and thin places. But at the
same time the number of joint
ends (knots/splices) should be
minimum.
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Classification of cone winding machines:
Manual cone winding machine
Automatic cone winding machine
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Type of package winding:
Parallel wound packages
Cross wound packages
Parallel wound: This comprises of threads laid parallel to each
other. It is necessary to have a flanged package or beam
otherwise the package would not be stable and would collapse.
There are another type of parallel wound packages without
using flanges. In these packages, for stability, the ends of
package need tapering for example polyester filament cops
which are wound on metal tubes.
Cross wound: This comprises of threads laid on the package at a
considerable helix angle (generally less than 800) so that the
layers cross each other to give stability to the package at ends.
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Slow, High and Super high speed winding machines:
Slow speed machines: Earlier slow speed machines were
invented in which Barber Colman winder was the most popular.
It was having all required features but the yarn winding speed
was considerably low to the tune of 250 meters per minute.
High Speed machines: With the modification in the winding
system high speed winders were introduced. In some of
machines the knotting device was fitted with every winding
unit. The speed was raised upto 500 metres per minutes. The
most common models were Autoconer (conventional) and
Uniconer etc.
Super high speed machines: These machines are modern state
of the art machines fitted with electronic clearers, sophisticated
stop motions, auto doffing facility, splicing device etc. These
machine are having winding speed of 600 metres and above.
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Difference between Precision and Drum winding:
Precision Winders: In precision winding the yarn coils are laid parallel or
nearly parallel. The package drive can be friction type or direct type. A
reciprocating traverse is used to lay coils on the package. The main features
are:
Package are wound with a reciprocating traverse
Patterning and rubbing causes damage of packages
Package contains more yarn
Package is less stable
The package is hard and compact
The package is dense
Rate of unwinding of package is low and the process of unwinding is hard
The unwound coil is arranged in a parallel or near parallel manner
Cross wound packages
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Drum Winders: These are also called non precision winders. The yarn
coils are laid in crossed manner. These winders don’t need flanged bobbins and
the packages are self stable. The main features are:
Only one coil is used to make this packages
Cross winding technique is used
The package density is low
Minimum number of yarn is wound
The package formed is soft and less compact
The stability is high
Flanges are not required
The rate of unwinding is high and the process is easy
The packages formed have low density
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Features of Slow, High and Super High speed winders:
Parallel wound packages
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