The importance of the Great British curry house
Back in 1979, I took my grandmother and her friend Frances to Monty’s in Ealing. Monty’s was one of the early Indian restaurants in London. My nan was in her 90s, and it was her first curry. We ordered the usual array of dishes – the sizzling tandoori, the Bombay aloo, the dal. My nan
![](https://www.spectator.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/GettyImages-91061117.jpg?w=440)