Fashion’s latest obsession with building a “capsule wardrobe” seems to be stifling personal style and scaring even the most stylish people away from investing in unique pieces they really love. Perhaps it’s also the reason why it feels like everyone on your Instagram feed dresses exactly the same.
Stylist and wardrobe consultant Allison Bornstein often encounters this “fear of trends” when working with clients, especially those who are trying to decide what to keep and what to consign in the midst of a closet refresh. It’s widely believed both inside and outside the fashion community that a classic black blazer has more longevity than, say, a Loewe padded bomber jacket. But Bornstein — whose “three word method” for discovering personal style by choosing three adjectives (one practical, one aspirational, and one emotional) that encapsulate who you are in the world went viral on TikTok in 2022 — has been reconsidering this notion as of late.
“A lot of things that are important to hold on to are the ones that are special and emotional and potentially rooted in a specific trend or time period,” Bornstein says. A simple black crossbody, for example, is classic in every sense of the word, but it’s certainly not irreplaceable. On the other hand, a Fendi sequin baguette is much more special, so it’s probably worth keeping (even though you won’t get as much wear out of it). “It feels like an emotional purchase that’s aligned with your personal taste as opposed to a timeless piece you bought because you thought everyone should have one in their closet.”
And her approach is not about avoiding classic items altogether, either. Bornstein clarifies that you should absolutely invest in the ones you genuinely love. It’s about rethinking the definition of timeless: Just because something is simple and versatile enough to escape the trend cycle does not necessarily mean you’ll still love it in ten years. The general consensus on the internet right now is that having a capsule wardrobe equates to having good taste, but Bornstein says that having good taste is really about having personal style. If a purchase aligns with your personal style — whether it’s trendy, timeless, or somewhere in between — you’ll never get tired of it.
Her best piece of advice for deciding which trends to invest in (and what to keep versus what to consign) is not black-and-white. Nor is it based on how long a trend will last. So this summer, when people asked her whether or not they should drop over $1,000 on the Chanel Dad sandals, she couldn’t give them a yes or no answer. Instead, she encouraged them to tune into their emotions and focus on how the shoe made them feel — not how popular it was.
“Ask yourself, Even if this isn’t what everyone else is wearing, will I still want to wear it? If the sparkly Alaïa ballet flats are something that will really enhance your wardrobe and really feel aligned with your personal style, then you should have them,” Bornstein says. “And even when other people aren’t wearing them anymore, maybe you’ll still want to because you genuinely love them. You’ll be happy you bought them.”
