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Foot and mouth: the front line

This article is more than 23 years old
Guardian Unlimited writer Derek Brown has assembled a panel of people, all from his home town of Chipping Norton in Oxfordshire, who are affected by the spreading virus. This is the first of his series of reports on what is happening at ground level.

Meet the panel

We have not, thank goodness, had an outbreak of the disease yet in our district. But it's creeping ever closer: cases have been confirmed east and west of Oxfordshire, in Northamptonshire and Warwickshire.

Today brought grim news of another suspected outbreak near Bicester, in our own county. It's a desperately worrying time for anyone involved in the food business, whether producing it, selling it or serving it.

Already, the first rippling effects of the crisis are visible to consumers: gaps are appearing on the meat counters, and prices are starting to move up. But the marginal inconvenience of shoppers is as nothing compared to the dark cloud hanging over farmers.

The farmers

Marilyn Ivings, with husband Ted, runs Mill Farm at Church Enstone, a few miles from Chipping Norton. It's a mixed arable and livestock operation of 220 acres, of which the Ivings own 165 acres, and this year has already seen profound changes.

The pigs have all gone - just before the first outbreak of foot and mouth - because they were just not profitable, and the planned winter sowing of crops has been severely disrupted because the ground is saturated.

Now Marilyn's worries are focused on her herd of 35 suckler cows. The farm, like so many others, is in something of a state of siege. None but the most urgent visits are allowed, in or out of the cordon of disinfected straw.

"I am not going to visit anybody on another farm. I am thinking before I go anywhere," said Marilyn today.

As yet, the crisis has not produced a financial squeeze on Mill Farm, because the animals there are not ready for market. For now, the economics of the crisis are a secondary consideration.

"People talk of the beasts as if they are a commodity, but it's so much more than that. We talk to them. They are our friends," said Marilyn. "We hear them all the time. If they were not there, it would be awful."

Talking to farmers these days, the sense of suspense and helplessness is palpable. Marilyn Ivings, a prominent member of the NFU, has done what she can to protect Mill Farm against the insidious disease, but knows the defences are vulnerable.

The farm is bounded by roads, for example, and there is no means of knowing if the vehicles passing along it have been in contact with the virus. At least the bridleway has now been closed - to the indignation of some horseowners - but walkers are still using nearby footpaths.

"It's very worrying. We are very aware of where we have been. We make sure that no-one comes in from another farm, and any visitors we can make sure are scrubbed up properly. But with people walking through, you just don't know where they have been," said Marilyn.

The butcher

While farmers fearfully watch and wait, others in the food business are already beginning to feel the effects of the crisis.

John Kench, who runs a high-class family butcher's shop in Chipping Norton, has not experienced any panic-buying yet, but says that the pattern of trade is changing.

"People are ordering four days' worth of stuff instead of two. They are more interested in where it is coming from and how supplies are likely to be affected," he said.

One of John's prime lines is premium Orkney beef. His good relations with the Scottish suppliers mean that he is confident his supply will be assured for the next two weeks. What happens then depends on whether the abattoirs reopen.

Pork, which he usually buys from Cheltenham, are less assured. Lamb too could be a problem - though there is always the option of buying New Zealand stock.

"I'm not happy about imported meat, because how can I rely on the quality? I think I would be happier to take pork off altogether. The thing is we just don't know how long this will last. Towards the end of this week we should have some good information to go on," he said.

Prices, by and large, have kept constant in John's shop, though as a curious side effect of the prices, wholesalers have slapped up the cost of poultry and New Zealand lamb - neither of which have any connection with foot and mouth.

"I'm worried that customers will blame me for taking advantage, but what can I do? I can't simply absorb the extra I am being charged," he said.

The caterers

One of the caterers in the town who regularly buys from Kench's is Brian Galbraith, who with partner Jan Blackburn runs the stylish bar-restaurant, Stones.

Recently opened, Stones has quickly built a reputation for its home-cooked meals, with most of the ingredients locally supplied. So far, there have been no alterations in the menu - but there has been a sudden worrying dip in trade, notably for the Sunday lunches in which the restaurant specialises.

"It was a very quiet Sunday for us. We normally get a lot of passing trade, people coming through the town on their way to the countryside. I get the impression that people are taking heed of the warnings and staying away," said Brian.

Other businesses which rely on tourist traffic in this edge-of-Cotswold town, notably the burgeoning antiques trade, have also reported a falling off in recent days.

The Co-op

There has been no such problem for the Oxford, Swindon and Gloucester Co-op, which runs one of the two supermarkets in Chipping Norton. Over the weekend the store's meat counter was stripped almost bare, and there was also heavy buying of frozen goods.

But manager Tony Hatch said there had been no real evidence of panic buying. "It's certainly not that way at the moment. Most of it we put down to the normal increase which follows half term. It was a healthy increase, but no more," he said.

The Co-op has for the time being dropped all special offers on meat, but Tony insisted that it has not raised prices, only "reverted" to the pre-offer ones. The organisation is already looking for imports, to ensure continuity of supply.

dbrown445@aol.com

Special report
Foot and mouth

Background
Full list of confirmed cases so far

Graphics
Map of confirmed cases so far
Computerised image of the virus

Useful links
Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food
MAFF information and fact sheets
EU legislation on the disease
Latest news from the NFU
Meat and livestock commission
National Pig Association

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