How to Install Backsplash with Adhesive Tile Mats

I’m in the middle of a full kitchen remodel. So far, I’ve torn out our countertops to make a new overhang for a seating area, built the cabinets up to the ceiling, added a corner shelf, boxed in the fridge, and then had the entire space painted. I still have flooring and lighting and a lot more to go, but today, I’m showing how I installed the backsplash using sticky paper instead of thin-set mortar and giving my honest opinion on what I think of this product

For this project, I’m using the same herringbone mosaic tile that we installed on our fireplace. This was done using a traditional method, so I feel like I have a good apples-to-apples way to compare these two methods of installation.

Steps for Installing Backsplash with Adhesive Tile Mats

1. To begin, we removed the existing backsplash tile and lightly sanded the area, patching a bit as needed. Then, I shut off the power, removed my electrical plates, and covered my countertops with plastic.
2. To install the paper, the instructions say to run it in vertical steps. So, I lined the top edge under the cabinets and smoothed the paper downward until I could cut it with a utility knife along the countertop using a ruler as a straightedge guide. I pressed the paper firmly into place with a grout float, and then moved on to the next strip.
3. When I got to the outlet, I lightly placed the paper, cut around the outlet, and then pressed the paper to activate the adhesive. The final corner was a bit tricky to smooth into place. To do so, I pre-cut the base of the strip and bent it into the corner to cut vertically along the straightedge.
4. Next, layout your pattern on a flat surface. Note: The tiles may fit together, but the pattern isn’t always aligned. So if you’re using a complex pattern like herringbone, make sure all the slanted tiles are inlined with those above and below.
5. Then, I marked the cut lines that will sit along the bottom edge and left edge of the first sheet. If a tile falls off the backing, you can use a piece of tape along the face to hold it in place.
6. To cut the tile, I opted to put a board on the sliding plate of my saw. This equally supports the tile on both sides, whereas the groove on the built-in slider allows my small herringbone corners to fall down in the crack and not cut properly or chip. Note: This probably isn’t recommended by the manufacturer, so use your own judgment.
7. Once the sheets were cut, I dried them off with a scrap towel and lined them up on the counter. After that, I removed the protective face of the paper and pressed the tile sheet in place, allowing a slight gap for a grout line along the wall and countertop. Using a rubber float, I pressed each section of the sheet firmly for about 5 seconds to initiate the bond. When I got to the outlet, I marked the tiles that overlapped and used a utility knife to remove that part of the backing and tile. You can either snip out sections and make cuts as needed here or leave this part until the end. Once I got to the upper row, I used spacers to hold the tile up and create proper spacing.
   
   Note: In my opinion, this is when I realized the sticky paper was working against me as I wasn’t able to make any slight shifts in the sheets to open or close seams like you can when setting sheets like this in mortar. But to keep it positive, the upside is that you can grout immediately. Still, I waited until the next day, as the tile installation was a full-day process.
   
8. The next day, I mixed my grout per the manufacturer’s guide: let it set, mixed it one more time, and pressed it into the lines with a diagonal motion using a grout float. Once I completed a section, I cleaned the area with a damp sponge to clear the haze, while being careful not to reintroduce too much new water into the grout.

Materials

• Herringbone tile 
• Adhesive tile mat
• Unsanded grout
• Painter’s plastic sheeting
• Painter’s tape
• Pencil
• Sanding sponge

Tools