Before You Go…
Edinburgh has a number of grande dame hotels – the most notable being The Balmoral – but The Dunstane Houses are the most elegant places to stay in the city, tucked away in the Haymarket area. A converted Victorian townhouse, the hotel’s rooms boast antique four-poster beds and standalone copper baths – perfect for soaking in with a cup of tea and some homemade shortbread after a few hours exploring the dark Gothic streets in chilly weather. It’s also a short distance from the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, fronted by Charles Jencks’s masterful “Landform”.
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Maggie Smith is at her most charming in Ronald Neame’s adaptation of Muriel Spark’s 1961 novel, which shows Edinburgh landmarks such as the Meadows at their most advantageous.
Edinburgh has a couple of notable sculpture gardens just a brief drive from the centre. Chief among them is Jupiter Artland, where works by the likes of Antony Gormley and Anish Kapoor are dotted around more than 100 acres of lush grounds. Also a phenomenal day trip? Jencks’s utterly surreal Garden of Cosmic Speculation, open to the public just one day a year (and entirely worth planning your visit around).
Reportedly inspired by the stark architectural differences between Edinburgh’s Old and New Towns, Stevenson’s Gothic novella is a classic for a reason.
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Best Things To Do In Edinburgh If You Love… Fashion & Beauty
Many Edinburgh guides focus on the city’s vintage shopping – and while you should make a point of visiting the Wonderland-esque Armstrongs Vintage and Herman Brown, New Town has some great boutiques as well. Dick’s specialises in beautifully made classic items that truly last (and is a great place to stock up on Harley of Scotland’s deliciously cosy jumpers), while concept store Epitome has a well-curated edit of everything from L:A Bruket fragrances to limited-edition Birkenstocks.
Best Things To Do In Edinburgh If You Love… Art & Design
Edinburgh’s contemporary Fruitmarket Gallery (reopening early 2021) has a well-deserved reputation for truly brilliant exhibitions, with everyone from Phyllida Barlow to Louise Bourgeois showing here through the years. (Notably, it gave a then little-known Jean-Michel Basquiat his first-ever museum exhibition in 1984.) If you’re in the mood to step back into the past, on the other hand, book a ticket for Hopetoun House, quite possibly the loveliest stately home in Scotland – while craft fanatics should head directly to legendary tapestry studio Dovecot.
Best Things To Do In Edinburgh If You Love… Food & Drink
The husband-and-wife-run team behind The Little Chartroom serve exquisitely presented dishes at this genuinely tiny Leith bolthole – which is, quite frankly, the best restaurant in Edinburgh right now. (See its Instagram page for the menu, which changes weekly.) Slightly nearer to the centre, Fhior offers a menu build around seasonal Scottish ingredients, including heritage vegetables from the restaurant’s own garden – while Elliott’s near the Meadows is a truly glorious neighbourhood café (order the Beans).
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Best Things To Do In Edinburgh If You Love… Health & Wellness
The Glenogle Swim Centre may be temporarily closed due to pandemic, but anyone who’s most at home in water should make a point of visiting this beautifully restored Victorian pool as soon as it reopens. It’s also morally wrong to go to Edinburgh without climbing Arthur’s Seat – which still affords the best views of both the castle and Holyrood Park. And if you’re feeling overwhelmed by the bustle of the Royal Mile, nip down an alleyway to the secret “pocket” garden, Dunbars Close, designed in the 17th-century style of fabled city planner Patrick Geddes.
& The Souvenirs To Bring Home With You…
Made sustainably using recycled wool, The Tartan Blanket Co’s throws come in herringbone and gingham prints as well as tartan – and, at just £50, are a true bargain. Those who prefer their souvenirs in edible form, on the other hand, should head to Coco Chocolatier, which sells artisanal chocolates made using the best Colombian cacao and wrapped in packaging designed by local artists. Or, for something truly one of a kind, bring home one of jeweller Grainne Morton’s cult ephemera-inspired pieces – made using antique cameos; vintage beads; sea glass, and other wonders.
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