Every era has its own definitive wedding style. The 1950s were inspired by Dior’s New Look, with brides opting for gowns with full skirts and cropped midi lengths. The 1980s were filled with Princess Diana-esque gowns featuring huge sleeves and high necklines, while the ’90s leaned towards minimalism. And who could forget the ubiquitous flower crown atop brides in the early aughts?
After seeing dozens of collections at New York Bridal Fashion Week last week, however, it was clear that one trend is set to define the year ahead: the drop waist.
Across the world of bridal fashion more broadly, most can point to designer Danielle Frankel for bringing the silhouette back in style. The chic drop waists of her gowns have made their way into the weddings of the fashion set, as well as a number of Vogue brides. The designer explains that she is drawn to the style for the way it enhances a silhouette. “It elongates the body and proportionally shows the silhouette of the upper body in a more flattering way than cutting off at the waist,” she says. Her most recent collection featured a number of drop-waist styles, including her personal favorite: “The ‘Maeve’ gown with hand-painted florals and metal fibers in the fabrication is definitely a special gown,” she notes.
While last October’s bridal fashion week saw drop waists begin to emerge as a trend, the silhouette was everywhere at this April’s shows and presentations. After attending previews of over 30 collections from designers this season, it was rare to find a line without a version of the look. Taking the form of corsets, peplums, basque waistlines, and sheath-like silhouettes, there are plenty of ways to infuse the style in an original way to fit a designer’s vision.
“This silhouette is captivating the bridal scene with its fresh, cool factor, offering brides an option to depart from traditional styles and a chance to embrace something new and different,” explains designer Andrew Kwon. “I introduced drop waist silhouettes into my collection to explore new design dimensions, leveraging their elongating effect and the opportunity they provide to craft a smooth, beautiful shape.”
Designer Nadia Manjarrez, who has employed the silhouette in her past few collections, emphasizes how versatile the look is. "I like to work with a drop waist because it makes women look taller and, contrary to what people might think, I believe it is flattering on most body shapes,” she shares. “I also love doing drop waists because they allow me to play with texture and draping on the bodice, which is one of my favorite things to do when designing.”
The use of a drop waist also ties in with the rise of the second (and third) look at weddings, where brides and grooms have multiple outfit changes throughout the night. A drop waist corset can easily allow for a full skirt to be swapped for a mini or even pants later in the evening. In Manjarrez’s Olga gown, “the dress gives the appearance of a drop waist, but the tulle skirt layered underneath is actually a separate piece. When removed, you're left with a mini dress.”
Even though the style might be trending right now, LEIN designer Meredith Stoecklein insists that the look is truly timeless. “A drop waist wedding dress will have an elegance and sophistication that will carry through for generations,” she shares. “From basque waists to Lanvin's Robe de Style, a drop waist was designed to highlight a woman's figure by playing with proportions. I think there is a myth that drop waists are not flattering for every body type, but I’ve never disagreed more with a statement. I think the key is that the drop waist has to hit the perfect spot between the waist and hip—it can’t be too high and it can’t be too low.”
It’s that feeling of ease, it seems, that lends the silhouette its increasing appeal. As Stoecklein points out, with a drop-waist gown, a bride can “feel beautiful on their wedding day, without a thought of how their dress looks or is being photographed.”
