The soulful surfer town of Hanalei, on Kauai’s North Shore, is officially on the map. Surrounded by emerald mountains, cascading waterfalls, and serious surf breaks, Hanalei has cast its spell on many a visitor who has given up his or her mainland desk job for island living. Despite everyone wanting to be a part of the good life, the town has avoided becoming another Tulum or Byron Bay, maintaining a magical, end-of-the-earth feel. “When you drop down into the valley, it feels private, like you’re hiding away,” says San Francisco transplant and Bar Acuda chef and owner Jim Moffat. “Sure, there are more tourists every year, but the town seems to absorb them. They disappear up rivers and down the coast to little secluded beaches then show up at day’s end on the lawns in front of my bakery café, all muddy and sunburned. Everyone is so jazzed to be here, like it’s a big secret and they snuck in.” Two single-lane bridges bookend the town, acting like VIP gateways to this tiny slice of paradise. See why once you enter, it’s impossibly hard to leave:
1. There’s a Seriously Delicious Food Truck SceneHanalei’s laid-back vibe is perfectly suited to casual food truck dining. Locals plan their days around lining up at their favorite food trucks, which often close whenever the chefs run out of fresh ingredients—often before noon. Poke, suddenly all the rage on the mainland, is the specialty of year-old Kealia Poke, where a whiteboard menu offers custom bowls of caught-that-morning ahi prepared three different ways and topped with limu ogo, tobiko, and onions. Fresh Bite has a Kauai-grown menu of salads, wraps, and addictive purple sweet potato fries. The humble plate lunch (the Hawaiian equivalent of the South’s meat and three) gets a refined twist at Trucking Delicious. Try a classic like katsu (fried chicken cutlet) or shoyu chicken. Portions are shareable and come with a choice of two house-made sides such as pickled cucumbers with kimchi and pineapple-spiked macaroni salad. The owner, chef Chloe Sorey, also makes an Instagram-worthy hot pink dragon fruit juice. Surfer and chef Pat Grenz’s white taco truck, Pat’s Taqueria, was one of the first to debut on the North Shore. Parked at the Hanalei Pier, by Black Pot Beach, the fish tacos make a perfect post-surf snack. Newcomer Café Turmeric, parked its seafoam green truck behind the Hanalei Liquor Store and serves organic, gluten-free Indian dishes, including a killer coconut shrimp curry. Two quintessential island foods, shave ice and acai bowls, are the specialty at Wishing Well Shave Ice. Organic ices come in seasonal flavors like java plum and papaya lime and toppings range from coconut flakes to mango puree.
2. You Won’t Find Big Name Brands or ChainsMom n’ pop shops still reign in Hanalei, and most are refreshingly free of tacky tourist souvenirs. Sand People, located in Hanalei Center, stocks island-inspired furnishings and homewares that will have you dreaming of buying a beach cottage just so you can decorate. I Heart Hanalei Boutique has an overwhelming selection of boho-chic sundresses and stylish swimwear, including cult local brand Acacia. For vintage and vintage-inspired Hawaiiana, check out Yellowfish Trading Company’s museum-like collection of old-school aloha shirts, coffee table books of surf nostalgia, and 1930s Pan Am posters. A little over a year ago, folksy musician Donavon Frankenreiter and his stylish wife Petra opened The Barn 808, a curation of their favorite global finds and one-off pieces from local artisans and artists. Their lifestyle boutique wouldn’t feel out of place in New York City or London with its eclectic mix of oversized beanbag chairs from Cape Town, cushioned hanging chairs from Brazil, and surf print handbags from local brand, Samudra.
3. Farm to Table is ReligionFarm to table is a way of life on Kauai. Visit the Hanalei Farmers’ Market on Saturdays from 9:30 a.m. to noon to sample the island’s exotic ingredients, like apple bananas, longans, rambutan, and dragon fruit. “Don’t miss Ryan and Sarah from Kunana Dairy,” says chef Jim Moffat of Bar Acuda. “Sarah’s banana bread and chocolate-dipped bananas are great.” For a liquid version of the island’s bounty, stop by Akamai Juice. Owner Cas Schwabe Lutton concocts insanely healthy green and fruit juices and wellness shots, and a pay-it-forward board allows locals to treat each other to a drink. Petra Frankenreiter confesses Akami is a daily habit. “Cass, the owner, and her amazing staff make the most insanely healthy green juice, fruit juice and wellness shots,” she says. “My favorite is the Green Dragon and her blended frozen cold pressed coffee made with fresh macnut milk.” Chef Jim Moffat puts a worldly twist on local ingredients at his always-packed Bar Acuda. This locals-favorite tapas spot earned a spot on the James Beard semifinalist list in 2012 and reservations are a must. The wine list is one of the best on the island and his knowledgeable staff can pair dishes like local North Shore honeycomb with Humboldt Fog goat cheese and Fuji apple or seared ahi with preserved meyer lemon and Picholine olive relish with just the right glass. In 2015, Moffat took over Hanalei’s uninspired coffee shop and turned it into Hanalei Bread Co. Open at 7 a.m., it’s a go-to for early-rising surfers looking to get their caffeine fix.
4. Wild Beauty Surrounds TownIf Hanalei town feels sleepy during the day, it’s because locals and visitors are off playing in the mountains and sea. Hanalei Bay’s two-mile stretch of soft sand is home to three beach parks. This is where local legend Bruce Irons, and his brother, the late Andy Irons, learned to surf. During summer, the calm waters feel like a giant swimming pool, but come winter serious swell lures pro surfers to these breaks. If you’ve got a blue crush, rent a board or take a lesson with Hanalei Surf School and paddle out at surf breaks like The Bowl or Pine Trees. Josh Comstock, owner of Napali Kayak, leads day-long excursions down 17-miles of the awe-inspiring Na Pali coast, which is lined with sea caves and cascading waterfalls. The best way to explore the calm, jungle-fringed waters of the Wailua River is via SUP. Rent a board from Stand Up Paddle Kauai or take a guided paddle with Outfitters Kauai. The island is home to some of the most breathtaking hikes in the world, including the backside of Sleeping Giant and the Na Pali.
5. Hanalei is Refreshingly Resort-FreeThe Hawaiian islands are home to some of the world’s most famous beach resorts, however Hanalei has managed to resist as much as a boutique hotel. Condos, like the beachfront Hanalei Colony Resort, several bridges beyond town, and Airbnb have long been the only accommodation options near Hanalei. For a taste of true island hospitality, book one of the three rooms at The Palmwood. The five-acre property, tucked away in the valley of Moloa’a, a 27-minute drive from Hanalei, takes its inspiration from the ryokans of Japan and feels like a modern B and B. Meals prepared by proprietor, Eddi “Auntie” Henry, are reason alone to book a stay. Her island riff on a classic tarte tatin subs in apple bananas, macadamia nuts, and coconut flakes, and will keep you fueled for island adventures.