The Best Products and Treatments For Hyperpigmentation
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Whether it shows in the form of dark marks and patches on the skin due to an overproduction of melanin, or the pesky scars that never seem to fade, hyperpigmentation is a highly common skincare struggle. “Multiple causes are known for triggering hyperpigmentation, but sun exposure, inflammation, and melasma are the most common,” explains Dr. Chaneve Jeanniton, founder of Epi.logic skincare and oculofacial plastic surgeon. And for skin with naturally higher counts of melanin, hyperpigmentation can feel nearly impossible to get rid of as “darker skin has cells that are capable of producing even more melanin when inflamed or damaged,” adds dermatologist Dr. Elena Jones, whose client roster includes the likes of Pharrell. “Acne in skin of color produces more inflammation… thus, dark spots can develop and persist even without picking at the skin.”
Fortunately, there are a plethora of amazing products, tips, and treatments out there to help even out skin tone, including the just-released Hyper Skincare, “a brand hyper-focused on treating the needs of people of color,” says founder Desiree Verdejo. The line’s debut product, Hyper Clear, helps to heal hyperpigmentation while simultaneously enhancing glow with its blend of vitamin C, vitamin E, kojic acid, hyaluronic acid, turmeric and bearberry.
Here, four skin specialists share their recommendations for the best products and treatments to combat hyperpigmentation.
Vanessa Marc, Celebrity Esthetician
The owner of Vanessa Marc Spa in Manhattan is the go-to esthetician for celebrities including Jasmine Tookes, Alton Mason, Justine Skye, and Candice Swanepoel.
Suggested treatments: Marc suggests three different treatments when it comes to dealing with hyperpigmentation, all of which she offers in her spa. The first is her medical grade chemical peel. After about four days of peeling, “clients will start seeing results a week later,” Marc says. “The skin will look more even-toned and brighter.” The treatment is also great for treating acne, Marc adds. Her second recommendation, microneedling, is “a collagen induction treatment, which helps turn new skin cells into collagen,” making it great for acne scars and wrinkles as well. Last but not least, Marc says her brightening facial is great for hyperpigmentation: dermaplaning “lifts dead skin layers,” leaving skin brighter and allowing “serums and products to absorb better into the skin.” She then uses a diamond tip exfoliator while infusing skin with brightening serums. “It looks visibly brighter immediately.”
Suggested ingredients: Vitamin C and Glutathione. Marc uses her own vitamin C and glutathione products at her spa, and is coming out with her own line in early 2020.
Dr. Chaneve Jeanniton, Founder of Epi.logic skincare and oculofacial plastic surgeon
The founder of Brooklyn Face and Eye, in the heart of Brooklyn’s Prospect Park, Dr. Jeanniton specializes in nonsurgical and surgical procedures for both the face and eye area.
Suggested treatments: Dr. Jeanniton offers some in-office hyperpigmentation treatments including lower energy lasers, gentle chemical peels and microneedling. “The laser treatment I prefer is The Clear + Brilliant laser, due to its safety profile in skin of color,” she explains. “It uses low energy fractionated technology to improve sun damage, melasma and skin texture.” There’s also very little downtime needed for recovery—only a few hours of redness—but Dr. Jeanniton advises multiple treatments to fade stubborn pigment.
Suggested ingredients and products: Daily sunscreen is “easily the most important step in preventing and treating hyperpigmentation,” Dr. Jeanniton says. “The sunscreen should be broad-spectrum, meaning it blocks both UVA and UVB rays, with an SPF 30 or higher.” A Vitamin C rich antioxidant serum for the daytime is also essential because it “treats hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the enzyme, tyrosinase, which prevents melanin production.” Her multi-tasking product Daily Dose was made with hyperpigmentation in mind, as it features niacinamide, “a form of Vitamin B3 which helps fade hyperpigmentation by interfering with the transfer of pigment within the skin.”
Samantha Mims, Esthetician and founder of Dermasaa
The Bed-Stuy based esthetician has her own practice called Dermasaa, catering to some of New York’s It-guys and girls like artist Zuri Marley, stylist Solange Franklin, and makeup artist Marcello Gutierrez.
Secret weapon: “Making exfoliating acids part of your skincare routine will help tremendously with visible scarring and skin discoloration” Mims says. “It promotes a much brighter complexion as it effectively and gently removes the outermost layer of dead cells from the skin.”
Suggested products: “I always like to turn to products with holy grail ingredients like glycolic acid and lactic acid. Some notable faves are Epi.logic’s Clean Reveal Brightening Glycolic Cleanser, Beauty Counter’s Counter+ Overnight Resurfacing Peel, and Dermalogica’s Biolumin-C Serum.”
Dr. Elena Jones, Dermatologist
Dr. Jones counts Pharrell as one of her clients at her private practice in New York City.
Suggested products: Dr. Jones recommends topical creams like Retin A and Altreno, as well as vitamin C serums like SkinCeuticals Vitamin CE Ferulic and Drunk Elephant’s C-Firma Day Serum. But her number-one approach to avoiding hyperpigmentation is sun protection, specifically with a sunscreen containing micronized titanium dioxide or micronized zinc oxide. “The micronized helps to avoid that post sunscreen ashy glow,” she explains.
Suggested treatments: Chemical peels (salicylic acid, lactic acid and glycolic acids, Trichloracetic acid) work well. Nonablative laser devices such as microneedling are okay too. When it comes to lasering, Dr. Jones says “lower intensities of laser treatments, spread out over multiple visits is safest.”
