With technological advancements, skincare is getting more specific. A new generation of skincare products is targeting more microscopic tiers of the skin, like the skin barrier (a.k.a stratum corneum), the topmost micro layer of the epidermis.
When functioning properly, the skin barrier has a number of important functions, lists Dr Adam Geyer, consulting dermatologist at Kiehl's.
It serves as the first level of protection "from infiltrating microbes and pathogens". It limits the damage caused by physical injuries like cuts and abrasions. It acts as a barrier, and "reduces the number of allergens and irritants that can penetrate the skin". It repels UV rays and decreases our risk of developing skin cancer. It retains moisture, "preventing dehydration and loss of vital cellular fluids".
"Damage to the barrier function can come both from acute injury as well as from chronic stressors," says Geyer.
The most common damage inducers are injuries (cuts, scrapes, burns), damage from the "use of desiccating products that dry the skin and strip necessary oils from the skin's surface", sudden changes in environmental conditions (extremes of hot and cold), and physical or emotional stress, which he says, "can lead to an increase in inflammatory cells infiltrating the skin, leading to skin that is more susceptible to dehydration, irritation, and redness".
"First, I advise patients to focus on overall wellness by paying attention to minimizing stress whenever possible and drinking adequate quantities of water throughout the day," Geyer explains. "By minimising systemic dehydration, it is easier to maintain a healthy skin barrier and diminish signs of dry, irritated skin."
"From an outside-in approach, applying moisturiser consistently can make a significant difference in maintaining a functional skin barrier and improving both the health and appearance of the skin as a whole," he adds. "I advise patients to apply a generous amount of moisturiser following every shower or bath, while the skin is still damp."
"Minimizing excessive hot water exposure and limiting the amount of cleanser used can also help to protect the lipid (naturally occurring fatty molecules) balance in the skin."
A healthy, homogenised skin barrier will "cause the skin to reflect light evenly and appear smoother" -- if it appears dull, it's damaged. The barrier functions will fail, and let allergens or pathogens through, turning the skin red and splotchy -- "eliciting an inflammatory response," says Geyer.
"To restore a damaged skin barrier, it is important to increase the frequency of moisturiser application from once daily to twice daily," he says. "I advise using thicker products such as ointments and creams over lotions, especially during winter months."
When choosing a barrier-restoring moisturising product, Geyer's advice is to find "products with either a combination of ingredients similar to that found in the stratum corneum (a combination of ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol) or other biocompatible lipids such as squalane."
Ingredients to avoid include topical retinoids, and topically-applied acids like glycolic, salicylic or lactic.
Vogue recommends: Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream, Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Lift and Firm Day Cream Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 30, Avène Crème Nutritive Compensatrice, La Roche-Posay Toleriane Riche Soothing Proective Cream and Lancôme Absolue Sublime Oleo-Serum.
"If you are looking for supplemental improvement, I advise increasing oral consumption of vitamin D, flaxseed oil and fish oil for an added boost," Geyer adds.
