‘Less is more’ is a good rule of thumb to follow in skincare in general; all the more when you have sensitive skin. Indeed, sensitive skin requires some extra TLC—and mixing together multiple actives isn’t how you’re getting it. Actives, when used correctly have transformative powers, no doubt; however when used without the right knowledge, they can have quite the opposite effect. So, this is your periodical reminder about the ingredients that don’t mix well together—least of all if you have sensitive skin.
Vitamin C and retinol
Vitamic C and retinol—the two ingredients you’re most likely to see on skincare labels—are highly potent on their own. Used together however is a different story altogether as warns Dr. Renita Rajan, dermatologist who in general is against the concept of layering: “A simple routine often does more wonders than adding too many incompatible products, just because 'layering' is trending!” She strongly warns against layering anything over retinol, particularly Vitamin C. “Retinol goes solo on clean, dry skin—apply lightly, without rubbing since retinol is lipophilic and will make its own way into the skin. Rubbing will only irritate the skin,” she explains. Similarly, Vitamin C also makes the skin sensitive. “Vitamin C and retinol cannot be layered—if you must layer, it should be a quenching agent like hyaluronic acid, methylsulfonylmethane and tranexamic acid. If you’re using both Vitamin C and retinol, make sure it’s at different times,” she says.
Retinol and AHAs/ BHAs
As far as retinol is concerned, you need to tread with caution. AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) are chemical exfoliants that slough off dead skin—and should never be paired with retinol. Dr. Rashmi Shetty, dermatologist shares why: “Retinols slow down the signs of ageing by increasing the synthesis of collagen and minimising wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots. In contrast, AHAs and BHAs exfoliate the top layer of your skin to promote the development of younger, uniformly-coloured cells. Combining these chemicals might result in irritation or severe dryness.”
Glycolic and salicylic acid
Two other names you’re likely to find at your drugstore are glycolic and salicylic acid respectively. Great on their own, but together? Not so much. In fact according to Dr. Shetty salicylic acid should be used carefully even on its own: “Avoid using this component unless specifically advised by a skincare expert—it can be extremely drying and even cause burning and redness in sensitive skin.” Dr Chytra V Anand advises against combining both ingredients together: “Glycolic acid (an AHA) and salicylic acid (a BHA) together can be too harsh for most skin types. Both are exfoliating agents that can potentially cause skin irritation, dryness, and increased sensitivity when used together. It's advisable to choose one acid that suits your skin type and concerns and incorporate it into your skincare routine gradually. If you still wish to use both, it's best to alternate their usage or use products that contain a blend of both acids in balanced concentrations,” she says.
Chemical and physical exfoliants
Too much of a good thing is a bad thing—particularly when it comes to exfoliation! “Combining exfoliating actives, such as AHAs, BHAs, or enzymes with physical scrubs can lead to over-exfoliation and irritation. Physical scrubs already provide mechanical exfoliation, so adding chemical exfoliants on top can disrupt the skin's barrier function and cause redness, sensitivity, or even micro-tears,” says Dr. Anand.
Like all good things, keep it simple—your skin will thank you for it.
Also read:
Can bakuchiol really replace retinol?
The 5 active ingredients you actually need in your skincare routine
