We're all guilty of committing this cardinal sin—picking at the newest spot, pimple or blackhead that erupts on a particularly important morning. But squeezing, picking, scratching and trying to remove the offender will only result in spreading of the bacteria, scarring and a larger, redder bump. We spoke to dermatologists about the ever-popular clean-ups that promise calmer and clearer skin once you commit to monthly extractions. Scroll ahead for everything you need to know.
Extraction-based facial clean-ups are ideal as maintenance techniques
“A clean-up is designed to clean out blackheads and whiteheads from your skin. Typically, it involves some steam and then manual extraction of the comedones,” explains Delhi-based dermatologist Kiran Sethi. She says that people with oily skin, especially whose pores tend to get obstructed from pollution and dirt, can include clean-ups in their regular skincare schedule. She prefers vacuum extractions, as they can soak up all the grime from the pores without the danger of picking too deep or too much.
Dr Harshna Biljani, celebrity dermatologist and director of The Ageless Clinic, concurs that is ideal for those who regularly apply makeup and live in busy cities. Still, she suggests that one go beyond a regular extraction and take the time to include skin-specific treatments that target your skin's needs and problems. She says that regular clean-ups mean that extractions are less intense, as the skin is already cleared every month. “Clean-ups are not considered as basic as they used to be. They are essential to maintain healthy skin and get rid of the dead skin cells, dust and grime that clog your face and cannot be taken care of at home. Masks, serums and even skincare technology-based treatments like microdermabrasion, oxygen blasts and LED lights are giving clean-ups their own place in the skincare game,” she says.
But don't get clean-ups at your local parlour
While extractions at the dermatologists are done in a safe, hygienic manner, many parlours also include clean-ups on their menus. If done with the wrong tools, or by the wrong person, these can lead to potential infection and scarring. “You must make sure that the person doing the extraction doesn't extract the wrong type of pimple or be too aggressive, as this can lead to more problems,” says Dr Sethi. Mumbai-based dermatologist Dr Abhijit Desai cautions against getting extractions by anyone other than a medical professional. “We try to advise individuals to use the right kind of skincare to ensure that they do not get clogged pores. For those who still struggle with this, we suggests laser peels that can reduce enlarged pores, or improve a patchy, uneven tan and pigmentation.”
You'll have to ease up on your active skincare products pre- and post-extractions
Dr Sethi suggests that patients do not use acids or retinol the night before the extraction to avoid sensitivity. She says that the use of ice packs after the extraction can bring down any swelling, and regularly applying moisturiser to hydrate and coddle the skin will help as well.
“Make sure you do not step out without sunscreen, or use soap or any kind of a face wash for a couple of hours,” says Dr Biljani. “If you're wearing a post-care serum, follow the instructions given to you by your facialist on how to remove it, when to remove it and how to take care of it. Also, if possible, avoid wearing makeup straight after as well, especially if a lot of extractions were done.”
What is purging and should you be nervous about it?
When some people get extractions done, they may spot some breakouts a few days post-treatment. “Purging is a phenomenon in which breakouts occur post a clean-up or facial. Sometimes, when your therapist extracts your acne and follows it up with a massage, it may cause the acne bacteria that tends to be present to spread all over. Purging is more likely to occur if you have active acne and you're opting for a facial (due to the massage spreading the acne bacteria further), and not so much post a clean-up. Having said that, if you have a number of extractions, it is always advisable to use technologies like hi-frequency and blue LED light to prevent bacteria from spreading. Using anti-bacterial anti-acne spot peels or serums can also help the extracted acne settle without causing purging,” concludes Dr Biljani.
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