![Roasted Salmon Glazed With Brown Sugar and Mustard](https://static01.nyt.com/images/2021/02/07/dining/sifton-brown-sugar-mustard-salmon-horizontal/merlin_142427754_87be060f-648e-4783-a9ab-dec1ff12b722-mediumThreeByTwo440.jpg?width=1280&quality=75&auto=webp)
Seafood Chowder
![Seafood Chowder](https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/02/10/magazine/11mag-eat1/11mag-eat1-articleLarge.jpg?width=1280&quality=75&auto=webp)
- Total Time
- 1 hour
- Rating
- Notes
- Read community notes
Advertisement
Ingredients
- 36medium-size quahog clams, usually rated “top neck” or “cherrystone,” scrubbed under cold water to remove sand and grit
- 2tablespoons unsalted butter
- ¼pound thick-cut bacon, diced
- 2tablespoons dulse flakes
- 2leeks, tops removed, halved and cleaned, then sliced into half-moons
- 2carrots, peeled and halved, then sliced into half-moons
- 2parsnips, peeled and halved, then sliced into half-moons
- 2medium-size all-purpose potatoes, like Yukon Gold, cubed
- 1cup dry white wine
- 3sprigs thyme
- 2bay leaves
- 2cups heavy cream
- Freshly ground black pepper to taste
- 1pound firm white fish fillets, like cod, tautog or sea bass, cut into fingers
- ½pound sea scallops, sliced into coins if very large
- ¼cup chopped parsley
Preparation
- Step 1
Put the clams in a large, heavy Dutch oven, add about 4 cups water, then set over medium-high heat. Cover, and cook until clams have opened, approximately 10 to 15 minutes. (Clams that fail to open should be discarded.) Strain clam broth through a sieve lined with cheesecloth or doubled-up paper towels, and set aside. You should have 5 or 6 cups. Remove clams from shells, and set aside as well.
- Step 2
Rinse out the pot, and return it to the stove. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter, and turn heat to medium-low. Add bacon, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat has rendered and the pork has started to brown, approximately 5 to 7 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove pork from fat, and set aside.
- Step 3
Add the dulse and the leeks to the fat, and cook, stirring frequently, until the leeks are soft but not brown, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, then stir in the carrots, parsnips, potatoes and wine, and continue cooking until wine has evaporated and the vegetables have just started to soften, approximately 5 to 7 minutes. Add enough clam broth to just cover them, approximately 4 to 5 cups, reserving the rest for another use. Add the thyme and the bay leaves.
- Step 4
Partly cover the pot, and simmer gently until vegetables are tender, approximately 10 to 15 minutes.
- Step 5
Meanwhile, chop the clams into bits about the size of the bacon dice. When the vegetables are tender, add the cream, and stir in the chopped clams and reserved bacon. Add black pepper to taste. Let come to a simmer. (Do not let chowder come to a full boil.) Remove the thyme and the bay leaves, and discard.
- Step 6
If serving right away, slip the fish fingers into the chowder, place the scallops on the surface and allow them all to cook into translucence in the heat, approximately 5-7 minutes. But chowder improves mightily if it sits overnight to cure. If you have the time, don’t add the fish and scallops right away, but allow the chowder to chill in the refrigerator overnight, then reheat it to a bare simmer before adding and cooking them through. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve, garnished with the chopped parsley.
Private Notes
Cooking Notes
I'm a marine biologist and this is an old wive's tale. Clams (and mussels, and oysters) spend their lives with their shells open, breathing and feeding. They have a springy elastic hinge that keeps the valves open. They have to force the shells closed with their muscles. If a clam is dead, the shells will spring open. Sometimes in cooking, the hinge and muscles get damaged, so a cooked clam stays shut. If that's the case, just open it and check its cooked by smell and texture.
And what about the dulse butter that got me to this recipe? and where on this side of the Atlantic and you get pulse?
Before I comment on the recipe I have to ask...is this a health care site or a cooking site? Be safe - tossing 1 or 2 unopened clams won't break the bank. Anyway, if you don't eat bacon, pork or meats but want the umami that the smokieness of the bacon imparts, add a smoked trout, or good deli smoked white fish to your pot when you add your cream. I find this makes for a smoother smokey back-flavor than bacon actually does...but I like them both.
Woot woot to cooking with seaweed. I think you could also add the dulse to the water you use to cook the clams. I use kombu, sake, and water when I cook clams, and the result is consommé that is outrageous with umami.
Dulse is a seaweed that grows in the north Atlantic (and apparently north Pacific). In Atlantic Canada and Maine, dried dulse is a snack It is dried in its leaf form and is a purplish-reddish colour. Dulse is readily available online. If you don't live on the east coast, Amazon has both dried dulse and dulse flakes. Dulse butter is simply a compound butter - butter with dulse blended into it. Look at the ratio of butter to tbsp of snipped dulse in the recipe mentioned in the column.
Used canned baby clams and the juice for this soup, tasted great!!
After reading the story associated with this recipe, I was interested in trying dulse butter on veggies or poultry because of a shellfish allergy. However in researching dulse flakes, most sellers add a warning that dulse may cause a serious reaction in people allergic to fish or shellfish. Good to know.
I saw this recipe in the print NYT Magazine. The flavors it suggested were excellent..and I made a variation of it..keeping in mind that it was dinner for only two., one of whom, my husband, is terminally ill. Not going to eat a lot. He LOVES clam chowder and I wanted to make this for him. Canned clams had to suffice; no other seafood. The other BIG item: I used Morningstar Veggie Bacon instead of pork; we do not eat pork. No dulce flakes. All veggies as listed. Lots of butter. Delicious!
Bivalves (clams, cockles, scallops, mussels, etc.) should not be eaten if the shells do not open during cooking for health reasons, per the Food and Drug Administration and state governments' departments of environmental services. This has been standard advice for as long as I can remember (I'm 65). Cooking adequately will destroy viruses and bacteria but not toxins. Just search for "shellfish safety" or "cooking shellfish safely."
If using fresh, wild Quahogs... feed the girls. A gallon of very salty water per 12 clams and 1/4 cup of cornmeal, for 48 hours, changing water every 12 hours will result in plump, sweet and grit free clams. Also, all soups/chowders/gumbos are about the stock. Don't be lazy... use home-made stock... not water.
In Rhode Island they make what they call a clear chowder. I have made one similar to this for years. If I were going to omit the dairy in this recipie, I would add a squeeze to taste of fresh lemon to brighten it up after all the seafood was added and then serve.
I am sorry, I can only imagine how hard this time must be for you and your husband. May love shine through.
Clams which fail to open after 10-15 minutes cooking are not "perfectly good". The issue is food safety. There are various possible reasons for failure to open, all of which indicate a serious health risk if eaten. Every credible authority on shellfish preparation recommends discarding. If you are (1) buying from a reputable source, (2) storing properly, (3) cooking promptly, you will not have many discards. Don't let your parsimony land you and your guests in the ER.
Well worth the prep time and definitely better the next day. I ordered my dulse flakes on Amazon. One note: quahogs, top necks, and cherrystones are NOT the same for this recipe’s purpose. Quahogs are very large (2-3 per lb), while cherrystones are much smaller (6-10 per lb). I used 36 cherrystones, which yielded about 1/2c meat after steaming. 36 quahogs would equal over 12 lbs of clams!
Many grocery stores have an Ethnic/Asian section and carry a selection of dried seaweed including kombu, wakame, arame and dulse. Eden Foods is a typical brand. You can also look for a local Asian grocery store or order online via Amazon. A co-worker buys dulse flakes in a shaker sold at Walmart (it's the Eden brand). I don't ever shop there and find mine at Wegmans or Whole Foods.
Needed more liquid. I'm not sure I liked it as well as Sifton's easy fish chowder. But this is good.
Absolutely delicious. Had to make a couple of changes to the recipe - no dulce so used a small pack of Japanese Soup base (which has kelp in it). Used frozen whole clams (340g) package. Fortunately I had some crab stock that I had made earlier on hand and used it to replace the clam stock, added a whole other dimension of flavour. Perfect for a snowy TO night.
This is *so* delicious! Because I'm land-locked in CO, bought some frozen minced clams & used 8 ozs. Can't say I noticed the dulse flakes addition, but used them nonetheless. Maybe that's why I'm over the moon with the taste of this recipe?? Just lovely all around - tasty, succulent & fit for guests, for sure!
Love this recipe! But I am having trouble sourcing Dulce flakes. Is Wakame a suitable substitute?
Parsnips made it a little sweet. Used haddock which was lovely, threw in some leftover shrimp, skipped the scallops ($30/lb+ around here)
Cooking in Key West provides many opportunities for improvisation! Made this delicious chowder with a few adjustments: I used two 6.5 oz cans of chopped clams and three 8oz bottles of clam juice. There are five grocery stores on the island and not one had fresh clams. I used a pound of local shrimp and a pound of red snapper. It wasn’t too much fish. Our dinner guest is Parisian and owns a local restaurant. She gobbled up every bite and mopped up the sauce in her bowl. Need I say more?
I made this once before and while I thought it was tasty, I felt it could use a bit more kick and oomph so a made a few additions. I added a few drops of black anchovy sauce to the clam broth, threw in a dried ancho chili and a lemongrass stalk with the herb step and added a a few shakes of ground paprika. Also, Mexican chorizo can be a great addition or sub for the bacon (got that idea from a Portuguese fish stew recipe).
Honestly wasn't as impressed by this as I wanted to be. 2c of cream was overwhelming and it muted the other flavors. I'd maybe start with 1/4c and increase to taste.
Discard shellfish that BEFORE cooking are open & don’t close when you tap on them. They are dead. It’s true, not all shells open after cooking. Unrelated to toxins. If it smells bad before or after cooking, discard. Read these https://www.abc.net.au/science/articles/2008/10/29/2404364.htm https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/howto/guide/how-to-cook-mussels https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/keep-an-open-mind-about-closed-oysters/2016/04/27/3cd3cbe6-0bfe-11e6-8ab8-9ad050f76d_story.html
I've been making clam chowder for years, ever since living in New England. I had never used dulce, but thought I would give it a try. Couldn't find it, so per others' suggestions, I tried wakame flakes. Word of warning: I ground the flakes as best as I could but in the chowder, the wakame - which added no flavor -- bulked up and turned to a slimy mess, like overcooked spinach. I'm still picking it out. If I ever see dulce in the stores here, I might try it, but wakame? Um, no.
Over the many years of vacationing in Maine, I noticed that virtually everyone who cooked lobster tossed in a large handful of seaweed in the cooking water. The taste of lobster cooked that "Maine way" far outclassed any lobster I've had elsewhere. I was told, but never confirmed, that the seaweed contained monosodium glutamate which imparted an enhanced flavor the lobster. I'm not surprised, therefore, that the addition of dulse in this recipe has a similar effect.
I made this recently and it was so fabulous. However the recommended seafood was pretty expensive here. Next time I will substitute Gulf shrimp for the scallops and squid for the cod and try to bring the cost per serving down a bit.
After a vacation in Nova Scotia where I ate some kind of fish or mussels every single day, I returned home and found myself craving more fish. So I spent a lot of money on ingredients and made this stupendous recipe. I had seafood chowder 3 times on my week long vacation, but none of them was near as good as this was!
Made this tonight for the first time. I would,d not change a thing! I just returned from a week in Nova Scotia where I had it three times. This recipe is so much better than any I have tasted!
Absolutely loved this one! Chowder was definitely even better the next day. Didn't have the dulse and was too impatient to wait for it arrive from an online order. I'm sure it adds another layer to the chowder but even without it was great. I used Cod as it is inexpensive and readily available. I think next time I'll use something a bit more flavorful like Chilean Sea Bass.
Advertisement