French Fries

French Fries
Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky.
Total Time
1½ hours active, 48 hours soaking overnight and freezing overnight
Rating
3(1,104)
Notes
Read community notes

The effort is worth it for these perfect homemade fast-food-style French fries! By soaking the raw fries in cold water, you remove some of the starch, a technique I recommend for other interesting preparations in which you want the vegetal rather than the starchy component of the potato. (Try soaking potatoes in several turns of fresh, cold water and then stir-frying in a blistering wok with Sichuan peppercorns someday. Massively addictive!) Once destarched, the perfect French fry concept is straightforward, if laborious. As with making the best home fries, you want to start with an already-cooked potato. The interesting deviation here is that you parcook the potatoes in acidulated water first, give them a second blanching in hot oil and then freeze the fries at this stage. Once frozen, they are yours to cherish for months at whim — ready your clean, hot fry oil and sizzle away.

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Ingredients

Yield:4 servings
  • 3pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼-by-¼-inch fries kept refrigerated in cold, clean water overnight (about 5-6 potatoes, depending on size)
  • 2tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar
  • 3quarts canola oil
  • Kosher salt
Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Working quickly, remove the fries from the cold water, and drain off as much water as you can without breaking the fries. Discard the water, and place the fries in a large, wide, heavy-bottomed pot. Cover with 2½ quarts of clean, cold water, and add the vinegar. Bring to a low boil for 6 minutes. The fries should be cooked through but not falling apart. Remove the fries with a slotted spoon or spider onto a baking sheet fitted with a paper-towel-lined rack. Cool and dry the potatoes on the rack.

  2. Step 2

    Once the potatoes are cool and dry, prepare your deep fryer. Heat the 3 quarts of canola oil in a large Dutch oven (at least a 5 quart). Attach a candy thermometer to the side of the fryer, and heat until the gauge reads 395. Working in three batches, add the fries to the oil, and cook for 1½ minutes. Using a slotted spoon or spider, remove the fries and place on another baking sheet fitted with a paper-towel-lined rack. Repeat with the rest of the fries until all of them have been blanched in the oil for 1½ minutes.

  3. Step 3

    Let the fries cool and dry on the rack for 1 hour, and then gently place them in a large, plastic food-storage container, being careful not to break the fries. Cover, and freeze overnight. Cool, strain and reserve the canola oil.

  4. Step 4

    The following day, reheat the reserved canola oil in the Dutch oven. Attach a candy thermometer to the side of the fryer, and heat the oil until the gauge reads 395. Working in three batches, add the fries to the oil, and cook until the fries are light golden in color, about 4 minutes. Agitate the fries with a slotted spoon or spider during the cooking process to ensure even cooking. Adding the fries will have lowered the temperature of your fryer but adjust as needed in order to maintain 375. (It is better for your fryer to be below 375 rather than over it.)

  5. Step 5

    Remove the fries from the oil into a metal bowl lined with paper towels. Season all over with kosher salt, and serve at once.

Ratings

3 out of 5
1,104 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

If anything, this recipe gives a good idea of what OreIda does to create its frozen fries. After frying up a bag of their steak fries, the chef in my head said: The Search is Over.” I prefer to leave the parboiling and parfrying to somebody with fryers the size of Olympic swimming pools.

Pshaw, sir: This fast food is a pale shadow of My Best Fries, Evah: I inject each 3/8" fry with a special truffle sauce, using a #10 needle. Time for three pounds: 12 days. THEN blanch, freeze, etc. bliss

Loved this recipe but a piece of fry caught in my teeth and I didn't have a toothpick then remembered this old family DIY: First, you will need an axe and a whittlin' knife, Second, chop down a giant Sequoia....

I have a recipe I use which I think is insanely better. I take a whole potato, thorough clean it with a plastic scrub and skin on. I then but it up in size of steak fries you get at diners. Spray or drizzle a little oil on the cut potatoes, add salt, basil, oregano and sprinkle of parmesan cheese (all to your own taste). Bake at 450 for 21 minutes...AMAZING!

OF COURSE there are easier ways to get and cook fries. But sometimes only the hardest way seems right. The whole point of this essay is that the extreme labor of making these french fries is a kind of sacrifice made to counter the horror of school shootings and to express the love the cook has for her children. Love, fear, the enormity of daily life--all of it is over-the-top. So is this recipe. Beautiful.

My wife went to school in Paris and made these twice fried pomme frites a few times with great enjoyment by all. Good food takes time, great food often a bit longer.

As a story of parental love and concern it's top notch. As a recipe I want to cook? Not so much. If I want fast food style fries I'll go to a fast food restaurant. When I take the time at home I want something better. Lately I've been following the technique documented in a Cook's Illustrated recipe for Fish and Chips - potatoes are coated with a small amount of oil and microwaved until translucent, then rinsed in cold water and left to dry for up to an hour.

Thank you for writing such a sweet, heart-wrenching article. It wasn't about the recipe for French Fries was it? You love your children.

Dear folks, this is not about the fries. It's about a mother telling us how far she would go to lighten the dark shadows in our lives and the lives of our children. I've passed the story along, with thanks to Gabrielle Hamilton for her courage in telling us, as Sam Sifton often does, "how communities come together...to fix what’s broken, to save what’s left." Yes, fries or any food you know your child or spouse or any person you care for. Best wishes, all.

My wife says I make the most awesome French fries she has ever had (except the ones from a street vendor in Cairo fifty years ago). Slice up some russets into the shape you prefer, thinner the better. Soak in cold water a few hours, drain and dry. Place on a baking sheet covered in parchment paper. Drizzle with olive oil and liberally sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss. Bake in middle of the oven maybe thirty minutes at 450- toss a few times. Fabulously decadent.

That’s the most complicated recipe I have ever seen. I use the technique for frites in Julia Child’s first book. Easy, quick and delicious, with steak, burgers, salads, etc., been doing it for 40 years. Granted they are a bit thicker than 1/4”, but should “fast food style” be the model for today’s dishes?

To the commenters: Yes, of course there are many ways to make a decent french fry. I wont even address the Ore Ida frozen fry comments here. I'll go one step farther and say that I'll do this and then 2X fry them in duck fat for the ultimate Belgian/French fry. And you don't HAVE to do the whole 3lbs and the 3qts of oil. And yes, Oil is reusable for many rounds of frying if you filter it. The recipe is not meant for those in a hurry. Good food takes time most of the time.

A better alternative: 2 lbs of russets cut 1/4 by 1/4, chilled for an hour in cold water, drained in a colander and dried with paper towels. Then sprayed with canned canola oil and fried twice at 350-375 degrees in an AirFryer (with a 10 minute pause between) for 10 and 10 minutes. An hour and half start to finish. As good as it gets. (You can use a deep fryer if you don't have a wonderful oil-less AirFryer. The grandkids love 'em.

My mum's chips were the best. Soak the cut up potatoes in cold water for maybe 30 mins. Dry thoroughly. Fry in hot dripping or lard until barely browned. Remove then reheat fat and repeat. Drain and serve with salt and vinegar. Definitely not food police approved these days but oh that flavour.

In the mid 80s, when my six sons ranged in age from 1 to 14, I bought a 50-lb bag of russet baking potatoes for $3.50. I bought another bag the next week. Every day until I got through those bags, the routine was: Peel 5 or 6 potatoes; slice each into 3/8" fries; parboil; drain; spread them in single layers on baking sheets lined with plastic wrap; freeze, bundle them in the plastic wrap; label; store in the basement chest freezer. They made perfect fries.

This is the best way to make true french fries at home. This can be done in an afternoon and evening though, just make sure to par-freeze the fries. You really don’t need to wait these amounts of times, just soak for 30mins, boil, fry once, freeze, then final fry.

Tried it. The cooked potatoes tasted like fried potato.....very potatoey, not much crunch.

These were delicious. Inpeeled and sliced the potatoes (whichever ones we had), and left them in the fridge overnight. Next day’s dinner, put them on a baking sheet, drizzled olive oil on them, plenty of salt. They were delicious, and more delicious than when I do all of this but don’t leave them overnight.

Nailed it on 6th try. Absolutely worth it. Don’t use fresh oil to fry. Maybe 2 prior frys. Thanks GH/NYT

I am wondering how long they can be stored in the freezer for making ahead. I don't see a place to ask questions though...hope it is okay to do that here.

These fries are amazing. My one bad experience is that when added at 395 the pot boils over. This makes me think A. I’m doing something wrong B. My thermometer is off C. They could be added at a lower temperature say 325 D. Volcanic eruptions are part of the experience!

Ok, this is quite a project, but we picked it for our virtual family cook along for that exact reason and I cannot tell you how amazing these were. Even people with limited experience and tiny kitchens were able to produce absolutely perfect fries. Seriously best ever. Will we do it again? Once we forget about all of the clean up (which may take some time) we absolutely will. Made with Melissa Clark's Steak Diane (Easy and also ridiculously good)

We have been wanting to make these fries for some time, and our plans to have guests for a Sunday BBQ seemed like the perfect opportunity. We followed the recipe to a T, beginning with soaking the potatoes on Friday. All I can say is that the process was laborious, incredibly messy, and disappointing. I'm still cleaning out the oil trapped in my extractor from all the frying, and the end result was just OK. Not worth all the work, and certainly not worth all the cleaning up that was required.

The real secret is the potato you use. After years of trial, Eastern White potatoes yield the best fries, in my opinion. Unfortunately, they are hard to find. Russets, like Idaho baking potatoes are so starchy that they need to be cooked, cooked and cooked in order to get something that is close to a good french fry. I guess that is why the author has them sit in acidulated water overnight. If you do follow this recipe, let the fries float to the top of the oil on the first fry.

Never freeze potatoes for frites, only in Belgium can they make them properly. They must be fresh potatoes rinsed in cold water as noted in the above recipe and fried twice at two different temperatures . plain ,with mayo or ketchup they are to die for.

I agree. I will reconsider if I'm invited to try someone's frites using this overly complicated recipe. You might want to tweak the times and temperatures a bit to suit your taste, but that method works best for me.

Made this many times. Served with home made ketchup. Today idid one batch freeze for later , and the second batch I fried once for 8 minutes because I wanted to eat some now. Definitely worth the cool and fry again. I think it’s time to retire the canola oil. it this is a quiet kitchen meditation.

I like this recipe, except the freezing step. Freezing the potato bursts the cellular structure of the flesh and alters the texture. The best method is simply leave uncovered in a cold refrigerator for a long period of time (overnight). the fundamental secret to crispy fries is ensuring they are are as 'dry' as possible before going into the oil. A refrigerator is essentially a dehydrator. I recommend Heston Blumenthal's 3 x cooked fries recipe.

Very good. Make a lot for freezer

This is a laborious recipe albeit if you follow you’ll have the best darn fries ever! Served these to friends with perfect grilled steaks Happy happy

Cooked this as is, and the family devoured the whole lot. Now I down to do this once a week. As anyone trying using sweet potatoes instead and if it works as well? Thinking of trying that next time or a combination of both. This was really superb.

I've tried a few times to make sweet potato fries but they are just not starchy enough to crisp up, They always end up limp and soggy. Air frying is somewhat better, but maybe dusting with potato starch will add some crunch.

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