Embutido

Embutido
Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Prop Stylist: Carla Gonzalez-Hart.
Total Time
2 hours
Rating
4(175)
Notes
Read community notes

There’s a perception that Filipino food is rustic and uncomplicated, but when my lola taught me to make chicken relleno — chicken stuffed with embutido, a kind of meatloaf — I realized that she was using the same techniques I’d learned in professional kitchens cooking French food. She was very particular about ingredients. Even when her memory started fading, her first question when she saw me was always “Are you using chorizo de Bilbao?” (Yes, Lola.) Here, embutido is a centerpiece dish in its own right. I tried chopping the meat for texture, but whipping the ingredients in a food processor, the way my lola did it, integrates everything better.

Featured in: Angela Dimayuga’s 10 Essential Filipino Recipes

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Ingredients

Yield:8 to 10 servings
  • 1teaspoon plus 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • 9large eggs
  • 8ounces chorizo de Bilbao (3 links)
  • 6tablespoons unsalted butter (¾ stick), softened
  • ¾cup finely grated Parmesan
  • ¼cup finely chopped bread-and-butter pickles (¼-inch pieces)
  • ¼cup finely chopped pitted green olives (¼-inch pieces)
  • ¼cup raisins
  • 4garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 1teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
  • 1pound ground pork
  • Flaky sea salt, for garnish
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (10 servings)

363 calories; 29 grams fat; 13 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 11 grams monounsaturated fat; 3 grams polyunsaturated fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 0 grams dietary fiber; 3 grams sugars; 20 grams protein; 430 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil over high with 1 teaspoon salt, and set up an ice bath in a large bowl. Carefully drop 6 eggs into the hot water, one at a time, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer over low and cook, 9 minutes. Transfer eggs to the ice bath and let cool. Drain, then carefully peel.

  2. Step 2

    Roughly chop the chorizo, then transfer to a food processor. Give it a few quick pulses to break into small crumbs.

  3. Step 3

    In a large bowl, add the chorizo, butter, Parmesan, pickles, olives, raisins, garlic, pepper and remaining 1 tablespoon salt and stir to combine. Crack in the remaining 3 eggs. Add the pork and gently mix to combine. (You’ll want to work lightly to avoid packing the meat mixture tightly.)

  4. Step 4

    Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

  5. Step 5

    Tear two 15-inch-long sheets of aluminum foil. Divide the meat mixture into four portions. Position one sheet of aluminum foil in front of you, with one long side nearest you. Arrange one portion of meat in a 3-by-10-inch rectangle lengthwise in the center of the aluminum foil. Lay 3 whole, peeled hard-boiled eggs lengthwise across the top of the meat mixture, leaving about 1 inch between each egg. (You want to leave space between the eggs, so you can fully wrap them in meat to protect them from overcooking.) Add one portion meat mixture on top, tucking the meat between the eggs and around the edges and flattening the meat mixture on top. Pat the mixture into a log, completely encasing the eggs with meat.

  6. Step 6

    Working with the long edge nearest to you, lift the foil, and fold it away from you to completely cover the log, then roll the log gently until it’s covered lengthwise with foil. Tuck in the sides: Starting on one side, where the foil overlaps, fold that edge in tightly over the meat, then create four additional folds in a clockwise motion until the end of the embutido is fully covered. Set the torchon vertically, sitting it on the sealed base you’ve just created, and do the same to the top, sealing it shut in five folds and pressing down to eliminate any air gaps. Repeat with remaining meat and eggs, forming a second torchon.

  7. Step 7

    Tear a 16-inch length of plastic wrap, and set one torchon in the center of the plastic wrap. Lift the length of plastic wrap closest to you to cover the torchon, then roll the torchon away from you to the edge of the plastic wrap until the torchon is covered lengthwise. Twist the excess plastic wrap tightly at both tips. Repeat two more times, using two more layers of plastic wrap, then after third layer, using your dominant hand, tightly grasp one twist of the torchon. Using your other hand, roll the torchon on the surface toward you, while keeping the twist secure with your dominant hand, increasing tension to create a compact cylindrical shape. Tie the excess twist into a knot, then twist and knot the other end tightly to secure. Your torchon should be roughly 2½ by 10 inches, roughly the size of a salami. Repeat with remaining torchon.

  8. Step 8

    Transfer torchons to a large cast-iron pot or deep roasting pan. Cover completely with room temperature water (torchons will float). Transfer both to the middle rack of the oven and cook until pork is cooked through, about 1 hour. (Pierce with cake tester, then hold the cake tester up to the bottom of your lip: If it feels hot, the meat is cooked through.) Remove torchons from the water, and rest on a cutting board to cool and set, about 10 minutes. Unwrap them and cut into slices. When unwrapping, beautiful cooking juices will be released; save them for serving. Transfer embutido slices to a platter and drizzle with reserved cooking juices. To serve, sprinkle with flaky sea salt.

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4 out of 5
175 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

This youtube video shows the basic technique for the foil part. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWm0ZCDR4zY And this shows the idea for the plastic wrap part. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1FNe9iYRUM Note, these videos are not associated with the authors of this article.

They were wrapped in banana leaves and tied with the pineapple leaf fibres or the softened midrib of the banana leaf.

I have a hard time believing that these traditional recipes rely on yards of aluminum foil and plastic wrap—wasteful products of the mining and petrochemical industries—which did not even exist when they originated. How were they made in the early days? Please give us options that are more mindful of our planet

Can someone please include photos of the wrapping steps?

These are basically Scotch Eggs. Curious that the Philippines has this recipe too.

Coudn't you just make them like Scotch eggs? individually?

My mother used to cook embutido every Christmas eve because it was a very special dish. Instead of the aluminum foil, plastic wrap and torchon, she used caul fat also known as lace fat, crépine or fat netting. Then she would also wrapped them with cheese cloth. The caul fat brought additional flavor because after a day old, we would fry the embutido slices and they were even yummier! I live overseas and have tried cooking my embutidos with caul fat. I get them from our butcher.

Plastic wrap in the oven???

Coudn't you just make them like Scotch eggs? individually?

Directions were followed carefully but used much less salt. I found the torchons to be very "wet" and certainly not very appetizing in appearance. Both improved when I threw the roll on the barbi for a few minutes to brown up and dry out.

I love your presentation, Ms. Dimayuga !!

What is chorizo de Bilbao? Does this mean use a Spanish chorizo as opposed to say, Mexican? If it’s a special, essential type, where do you find it?

Chorizo de Bilbao is a dry cured sausage with a misconception that it is made in Bilbao, Spain. It was first produced in the Philippines by a family who originated from Bilbao. Now you may be able to buy them under the label Marca El Rey chorizos or find alternative chorizos in Spanish or Portuguese stores near you. They are just as fine to use. They truly bring flavor to Spanish influenced dishes like paella, cocido and callos and of course embutido as presented by Ms. Angela Dimayuga.

Has anyone cooked this? How do they taste?

I have a hard time believing that these traditional recipes rely on yards of aluminum foil and plastic wrap—wasteful products of the mining and petrochemical industries—which did not even exist when they originated. How were they made in the early days? Please give us options that are more mindful of our planet

They were wrapped in banana leaves and tied with the pineapple leaf fibres or the softened midrib of the banana leaf.

My mother used to cook embutido every Christmas eve because it was a very special dish. Instead of the aluminum foil, plastic wrap and torchon, she used caul fat also known as lace fat, crépine or fat netting. Then she would also wrapped them with cheese cloth. The caul fat brought additional flavor because after a day old, we would fry the embutido slices and they were even yummier! I live overseas and have tried cooking my embutidos with caul fat. I get them from our butcher.

As Marylou said, you can use caul fat or sinsal, It tastes much better with it and for me that is real embutido. But if you don't have that you can use flour sack cloths as long as you clean it well.

These are basically Scotch Eggs. Curious that the Philippines has this recipe too.

This youtube video shows the basic technique for the foil part. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWm0ZCDR4zY And this shows the idea for the plastic wrap part. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1FNe9iYRUM Note, these videos are not associated with the authors of this article.

Jacque Pepin makes a vaguely similar pork sausage (no eggs and with curing salt), but he wraps first in plastic wrap, then in foil. After curing in refrig, he then poaches or pan roasts. Not sure if it makes a difference with this sausage, but I think I'd do plastic wrap first to get a tighter cylinder and then wrap in foil.

Can someone please include photos of the wrapping steps?

to difficult without images !!!!!

Plastic wrap in the oven???

Yes, because it is covered in water the whole time. Poached, not the dry heat of baking.

If Chorizo de Bilbao is not available, is there a recommended sausage substitute?

Any Spanish chorizo should work fine, but not Mexican chorizo. Mexican chorizo is completely different than Spanish chorizo (from Spain).

Is there a video for this dish?

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