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St. John Beans and Bacon
![St. John Beans and Bacon](https://static01.nyt.com/images/2020/02/19/dining/18britsrex1/merlin_167663715_42b2294f-ef8c-478b-8e60-f0c4c3cad029-articleLarge.jpg?width=1280&quality=75&auto=webp)
- Total Time
- About 2 hours, plus overnight soaking
- Rating
- Notes
- Read community notes
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Ingredients
- 1pound dried white beans, soaked overnight
- ¼cup duck fat or extra-virgin olive oil
- 1pound salt pork or pancetta, cut into large lardons (about ¼ inch by 1 inch)
- 1quart good-quality chicken or meat stock
- 6garlic cloves, left whole (no need to peel)
- 1large bouquet garni of sage, thyme, rosemary and parsley, tied
- 2large white or yellow onions, chopped
- 2leeks, trimmed, white and pale green parts thinly sliced
- 3celery stalks, thinly sliced
- Sea salt and black pepper
- 3tablespoons chopped fresh sage
- 1(14-ounce) can Italian plum tomatoes and their juices
Preparation
- Step 1
Drain the beans and put them in a medium pot. Cover by about 1 inch of cold water, bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer and cook until beans are thoroughly giving (but not mushy). This will take approximately 1 to 2 hours, depending on the freshness of the beans. Once cooked, remove from the heat, but keep them in their liquor so they do not dry out.
- Step 2
Get a large, deep pan hot and add the duck fat (or oil). Add the lardons and cook over low heat to render the fat, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes.
- Step 3
In a saucepan, combine stock, garlic cloves and bouquet garni. Heat to a simmer then cook, 30 minutes. Turn off the heat and set aside.
- Step 4
When the lardons are golden, remove with a slotted spoon. To the fat in the pan, add onions, leeks and celery, season with salt and cook until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the sage and the entire tin of tomatoes and their juices, crushing the tomatoes in your hands as you do so. Let this cook down for 15 minutes to thicken the tomatoes, stirring to remove all the good lardon bits that might adhere to the pan. Stir in 1 cup of the simmered stock. Season to taste.
- Step 5
Drain the beans and add them to the pan with the tomato mixture. Add the lardons and 1 more cup stock and gently mix everything together. Season very well with salt and pepper. Cover and let cook over low heat for 10 to 20 minutes, adding stock a ladleful at a time if the mixture seems to be drying out. Serve hot.
Private Notes
Cooking Notes
This dish is a marvel of economy and unfussiness. Do the beans (soaked overnight) in an Instant Pot (the standard "beans" setting: 1/2 hr + natural release) using the 1 quart/950 ml stock instead of water. (Paul Prudhomme: "Water's only for washing!") Rather than bouquet garni (good luck finding fresh herbs in Feb), I use them dried (1/2 tsp each thyme, sage, parsley & rosemary; 2 tsp chopped garlic) much later, at the start of Step 5, to maximize flavor.
For many years I have been following the advice of America's Test Kitchen when soaking beans. Their advice: Brine the beans! Dissolve 3 T salt in 4 Qt. cold water. Soak the beans overnight, 8-24 hours. The result will be that the beans have a very creamy texture that is to die for. I highly recommend this any time you plan to use dried beans in a recipe like this.
no need to "yuck" someone else's "yum".
Water is a fine base for soups and stews, M.Prudhomme respectfully contradicted. It's better than many a package chicken stock with its list of ingredients.. There are fresh herbs all over the place in supermarkets! For me, with a Boston childhood of baked beans every Saturday night, I like them cooked slow and made thick. Also, like a Bostonian (Manhattan clam chowder, oi), find adding tomatoes to the beans ... unappetizing. It's great to see this food given it's proper respect.
RE: stock vs water: We can agree to differ, but this recipe uses 1 qt stock anyway: I merely suggest using it at step 1. RE: tomato: Worldwide, non-prosperous cultures that consume meat sparingly use tomato to add umami to legumes. Think black beans with salsa (Mexico); chickpea cholé (North India/Pakistan); Pasta Fazool (Southern Italy/Sicily). This recipe resembles the last somewhat: foodnetwork.com/recipes/jeff-mauro/pasta-fazool-3363378 .
Yes, I agree that adding tomatoes is unappetizing. But I like that this version is not as sweet (no molasses or sugar!) as our Boston beans. I'll make these going forward and abandon the beans of childhood.
Mostly agree with Joyce as to water v stock for this dish, and with Prakash as to soaking v Instapot. An enameled cast iron stew-pot. Vote for pancetta instead of salt pork, tho cut up pork jowl if you have access will do handsomely. The recipe as written sounds delicious tho if you do use pork jowl or salt pork you'd do well to hold or at least minimize the salt. Finally and most importantly you'd do well to bake in lowish (300 degree) oven, and let it bake all afternoon if you have time.
it's fine to prefer one dish to another (don't we all?) but if you're having a "one note bowl of gloppy sludge" then you aren't having real new england chowdah. as a rhode islander i turn my back on our namesake chowdah and think the new england variety is king. but it's also what most people imagine when they think of chowder, and thus is most widely emulated, which means there is a lot of gloppy sludge out there indeed. (just as all the bad pizza out there does not mean all pizza is bad ;))
Some of us like both styles of chowder and don’t denigrate either one.
Go Sox! Manhattan clam chowder should be named something other than chowdah; maybe then the arguments would stop. It's really more cioppino than chowdah, and, in its way, as good as genuine clam chowdah, though not as good as fish chowdah made with "trash fish" (hake, cusk, etc.), so there!
As a bean lover, I have adopted Diana Kennedy's foolproof frijoles de olla method: don't soak the beans, just cook them. The overnight soak is a disincentive to many a home cook and judging by the perfect results I get, thanks to Kennedy, completely unnecessary.
Do the beans (soaked overnight) in an Instant Pot (the standard "beans" setting: 1/2 hr + natural release) using the 1 quart/950 ml stock instead of water. (Paul Prudhomme: "Water's only for washing!") Rather than bouquet garni, I use them dried (1/2 tsp each thyme, sage, parsley & rosemary; 2 tsp chopped garlic) much later, at the start of Step 5, to maximize flavor.
I am making this recipe today and will add a note after I have eaten the bean and bacon stew, but I wanted to mention to those like Maeve who don’t like the sweetness of Boston baked beans: Try Julia Child’s recipe in The Way To Cook. It has no brown sugar, just molasses and Dijon mustard so the beans are yummy but not sweet.
I substituted dry large lima beans for the white beans, spooned it over thick-cut sourdough toast, and topped it with a poached egg and diced scallions — amazing.
Okay, gotta add my two bits. Ditch step three. To your bean cooking water, add the bouquet garni, some salt...Yes, and some aromatics (garlic, onion, celery, carrot, fennel, whatever you’ve got). The resulting pot liquor is a fabulous stock for this dish. Plus, the beans will already be so flavorful, you might have a hard time saving them for the rest of this heavenly recipe!
Made as per the recipe. Delicious! A few notes: - This would be fine with less (expensive) pancetta, perhaps 3/4 lb. If you like it fairly crispy, allow for 45 minutes cooking instead of 20. Also don't need quite as much oil - try 1/8 cup instead of 1/4. - Finished this in the pot the beans cooked in, not the skillet the veggies cooked in; would not have been large enough. - Important! Cook the celery for a few minutes before adding the other veggies, otherwise, it will be too crunchy.
When you’re in a “pot of Beans” mood, this recipe is an easy step above the ordinary and devious beyond the ordinary.
A squeeze of lemon when done cooking really makes the flavors pop, IMHO.
So, I don't like sage. Has anyone tried this with no sage?
Peggy Carey, You ask if anyone has tried this w/out sage. Yes. Used only thyme and parsley for summer cook of this dish. Worked well.
As a bean lover, I have adopted Diana Kennedy's foolproof frijoles de olla method: don't soak the beans, just cook them. The overnight soak is a disincentive to many a home cook and judging by the perfect results I get, thanks to Kennedy, completely unnecessary.
This was a perfect recipe. I left it a bit on the soupy side for this rainy day. And I used small diced pancetta bits from Trader Joe's. I tried it with the pumpkin corn bread I made but it cancelled out the complex notes of the beans. So I just left it for dessert. Delicate and perfect recipe for my palate. Love the tanginess of the lemon thyme and leeks.
Okay, gotta add my two bits. Ditch step three. To your bean cooking water, add the bouquet garni, some salt...Yes, and some aromatics (garlic, onion, celery, carrot, fennel, whatever you’ve got). The resulting pot liquor is a fabulous stock for this dish. Plus, the beans will already be so flavorful, you might have a hard time saving them for the rest of this heavenly recipe!
I nod along in agreement to nanu's comment. :-) "Ditch step three. To your bean cooking water, add the bouquet garni, some salt...Yes, and some aromatics (garlic, onion, celery, carrot, fennel, whatever you’ve got). The resulting pot liquor is a fabulous stock for this dish."
Made this as directed and really wonderful as is. I'll try the pancetta next time and agree it is worth holding the salt until you can gauge impact of the salt pork or bacon. I served it over some wilted arugula and was very satisfied.
You chowdah people are sumpin! I can’t wait til it’s travel time again and I can get my east coast relatives to drag me around for a scientificl controlled taste test. (California deaming here)
Excellent! Complex flavor! Used the EVOO and 12 oz thick bacon, diced, because that was what I had. 14 oz. of canned plum tomatoes is definitely enough. If you open a 28 oz can, save the rest for something else.
soak the beans overnight in the instant pot
I have grown to really like this recipe. The revelation for me is the stock, which is ramped up with lots of garlic and a large bouquet garni. I am thinking of doing this to my regular chicken stock-making.
I just prepared this dish and it is very good. My guess is that the prep is also very forgiving. I though the beans were great with or without pancetta. I think it would be great with bacon or sausage, too. Next time, I might skip our use less of the stock. I’d like the beans to be less soupy.
YUMMMMM! Simple, cheap, and utterly scrumptious. I only wish I had had the foresight to bake some fresh bread to go with it! I cooked the (soaked) beans in my instantpot (30 min on beans setting + natural release), but otherwise followed the recipe as is. This will be going into the comfort food arsenal for life. Yum!
I substituted dry large lima beans for the white beans, spooned it over thick-cut sourdough toast, and topped it with a poached egg and diced scallions — amazing.
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