Challaw (Cardamom and Cumin Basmati Rice)

Challaw (Cardamom and Cumin Basmati Rice)
Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.
Total Time
45 minutes, plus 1 hour soaking
Rating
4(102)
Notes
Read community notes

The Afghan Australian cookbook author Durkhanai Ayubi emphasizes that a distinctive quality of challaw — a simple Afghan dish — is the elongated and separate grains of white basmati rice. She shared this recipe from her mother, Farida Ayubi, for this fragrant and comforting pot of rice in their cookbook “Parwana: Recipes and Stories From an Afghan Kitchen.” In this preparation, the rice is first parboiled and then steamed and scented with cardamom pods and cumin seeds. It is worthy of a celebratory feast, alongside saucy dishes like sabzi, but easy enough for weeknight meals. —Naz Deravian

Featured in: For Afghans Abroad, Nowruz Is a Chance to Reflect

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Ingredients

Yield:6 servings
  • 2cups white basmati rice, soaked in cold water for 1 hour
  • Salt
  • 1teaspoon green cardamom pods
  • 1teaspoon cumin seeds
  • ½cup sunflower or grapeseed oil
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

388 calories; 19 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 3 grams monounsaturated fat; 13 grams polyunsaturated fat; 50 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 0 grams sugars; 4 grams protein; 187 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In a large pot with a lid, bring 8½ cups water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, drain the rice in a large fine-mesh sieve or colander and rinse under cold water until the water runs clear. Add the rice and 1 tablespoon kosher salt (or 1½ teaspoons coarse kosher salt or fine salt) to the boiling water. Boil uncovered, until the grains seem to have doubled in length, 5 to 6 minutes.

  2. Step 2

    Meanwhile, in a small saucepan or kettle, bring 1½ cups of water to a boil and keep at a simmer. Place the cardamom pods on a cutting board and lightly crack them with the side of a large knife.

  3. Step 3

    Drain the parboiled rice in the sieve or colander and return the rice to the pot. Add the cracked cardamom pods and any seeds that may have popped out, the cumin seeds and 1 tablespoon kosher salt (or 1½ teaspoons coarse kosher salt or fine salt). Mix gently to combine, taking care to not break the rice grains. Drizzle with the oil and the just-boiled water from the saucepan, and stir gently to coat the rice.

  4. Step 4

    Cover the pot and cook over high heat until steam escapes from beneath the lid, 3 to 6 minutes. This is a critical step in preparing the rice to avoid overcooking it. Once you see the steam, reduce the heat to low and cook until the rice is tender and all the water is gone, another 20 minutes. Serve immediately.

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4 out of 5
102 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

How is this rice different than adding the cardamom pods and cumin seeds to the pot and cooking the rice the regular way?

Total cooking time of 28-32 minutes seems too long for basmati rice that has been soaked for an hour and started in boiling water... I routinely cook basmati rice in a similar manner and 12 minutes is enough to finish cooking completely (9-10 minutes for al dente).

I'm a little confused. The alternative to 1 Tbsp. Kosher salt is "1-1/2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt OR fine salt". But 1-1/2 tsp. coarse kosher salt is NOT the same as 1-1/2 tsp. of fine salt. And if I would use 1 Tbsp of "kosher salt" (which is presumably coarse) why would an alternative be 1-1/2 tsp. (half the amount) of "coarse kosher salt"? Can someone please explain.

Like Avani, I cook basmati rice for only 10-12 minutes. Then I let it sit for a few minutes off the burner with a cloth napkin between the pot and lid. Perfect every time. Years ago the NYT published a recipe for Turmeric Rice by Madhur Jaffrey which called for the spices to be cooked in a little oil before adding the rice. A good recipe.

The difference is the 1/2 cup of oil in this recipe. The result is a crispy bottom layer called tahdig, which is highlights of the dish.

Dear Granddaughter of Immigrants, I believe the notation refers to 1 Tablespoon of Diamond Kosher Salt or 1.5 teaspoons of Morton’s Kosher Salt which is much more salty and dense. According to Morton’s salt conversion 1.5 teaspoons of Morton’s Kosher Salt is the equivalent of 1.5 teaspoons of Table Salt or Fine Sea Salt. Happy Cooking!

It really can't. Different cultures prepare white rice in dozens of distinct ways, with specific cooking methods that yield distinct textures. You could easily add cumin and cardamom to rice made in a rice cooker using the absorption method, and there's nothing wrong with that, but it won't be Afghan rice.

Maybe try with half the oil next time. Still incredibly tasty. Paired well with naan and saag paneer.

Is there any way to make this using ground cardamom? Living in The Bahamas as I do, cardamom pods are a little scarce.

I found this to be far too oily. On top of it we were eating the NYT Cooking recipe for lamb sabji, which was also incredibly oily. If I make it again I plan to use half the amount of sunflower oil.

I made as instructed, a new method for me. The crispy outside layer was delicious!

To the salt question above. The amount of Sodium is the same in 1 Tbsp kosher salt (~3000mg, can vary by brand) and 1-1/2 tsp fine salt (~3000mg or ~6000mg in a TBSP). In other words, equal amounts of salt by measure are not truly equal in terms of flavor. If you used 1 tablespoon of fine salt, it would be a VERY salty dish!

Dear Granddaughter of Immigrants, I believe the notation refers to 1 Tablespoon of Diamond Kosher Salt or 1.5 teaspoons of Morton’s Kosher Salt which is much more salty and dense. According to Morton’s salt conversion 1.5 teaspoons of Morton’s Kosher Salt is the equivalent of 1.5 teaspoons of Table Salt or Fine Sea Salt. Happy Cooking!

Can this be done in a Instapot? If so how?

It really can't. Different cultures prepare white rice in dozens of distinct ways, with specific cooking methods that yield distinct textures. You could easily add cumin and cardamom to rice made in a rice cooker using the absorption method, and there's nothing wrong with that, but it won't be Afghan rice.

I never soak basmati, just rinse and swirl repeatedly until water runs clear, as indicated. Cooking it like pasta and returning to pot is the surest way to get separate grains without worry over rice to water ratio. The second pot seems a bit fussy to me, particularly for a galley kitchen owner. Why not prep the aromatics in the same pot after draining the rice?

Like Avani, I cook basmati rice for only 10-12 minutes. Then I let it sit for a few minutes off the burner with a cloth napkin between the pot and lid. Perfect every time. Years ago the NYT published a recipe for Turmeric Rice by Madhur Jaffrey which called for the spices to be cooked in a little oil before adding the rice. A good recipe.

Thanks for sharing your hack and Jaffrey reference @Ruth. Wrapping the lid with a dishtowel is also the Persian rice method. See Najmieh Batmanglij cookbooks for recipes, another wonderful resource.

This is just basmati rice cooked the Indian way. Do what the Indian cooks do: place ingredients in the pressure cooker or Instant Pot, reduce the amount of water by 30%, cook on high pressure for 12 minutes. Let the pressure release naturally for 10 minutes, then pop the pressure valve.

I cook 1C rice + 1C water + any seasonings for 4 minutes in the IP. Let sit 2 minutes, release the pressure. Perfect rice every time. If not serving immediately I cover with a clean towel and lay the lid on top, this keeps the rice from getting soggy.

My basmati cooks in 15 min without soaking or parboiling. Cooking it this way would create mush. Why not just cook the rice with the oil & seasonings from the start? Perhaps the author was using a very different type of basmati.

How is this rice different than adding the cardamom pods and cumin seeds to the pot and cooking the rice the regular way?

No different (IMHO). Make sure to splutter the cardamom & cumin before you add the rice & water. Also, I would use the cardamom pods without cracking them (unless you don't mind the seeds). Frying the pods in the oil tend to open them ever so slightly without the seed spillage.

The difference is the 1/2 cup of oil in this recipe. The result is a crispy bottom layer called tahdig, which is highlights of the dish.

Total cooking time of 28-32 minutes seems too long for basmati rice that has been soaked for an hour and started in boiling water... I routinely cook basmati rice in a similar manner and 12 minutes is enough to finish cooking completely (9-10 minutes for al dente).

I'm a little confused. The alternative to 1 Tbsp. Kosher salt is "1-1/2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt OR fine salt". But 1-1/2 tsp. coarse kosher salt is NOT the same as 1-1/2 tsp. of fine salt. And if I would use 1 Tbsp of "kosher salt" (which is presumably coarse) why would an alternative be 1-1/2 tsp. (half the amount) of "coarse kosher salt"? Can someone please explain.

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Credits

Adapted from “Parwana: Recipes and Stories From an Afghan Kitchen,” by Durkhanai Ayubi and Farida Ayubi (Interlink Books, 2020)

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