If you're a racing fiend, you likely know about Heuer.
Heck, if you've ever worn a watch, period, you've gotta know the Heuer name. Certainly the TAG Heuer name, the modern incarnation of the company established by Edouard Heuer in 1860, purchased by Techniques d'Avant-Garde in 1985, and acquired by LVMH in 1999. Responsible for the design of some of the world's most beloved automotive-inspired chronographs, Heuer's vintage wares are hunted by collectors the world over.
However, for every Carrera, Autavia, or Monaco, there's an odd bird or under-the-radar reference that only the nerdiest of aficionados — aka, us! — know and love. But we'd like to share the love, to spread the infectious joy brought about by the tide-indicating Seafarer; the time-recording, second time zone-tracking Autavia GMT; the rough-and-ready mil-spec Bundeswehr. Indeed, that's why we've rounded up some of our favorite under-the-radar Heuer models and references for your horological pleasure — we think that once you've experienced some of these wildly fun watches yourself, you'll wonder how you ever lived without them.
Heuer Autavia GMT ($16,650)
Heuer Autavia GMT - IN THE SHOP
In the mid-20th century, Heuer had a way of combining utility with beauty that few other watch companies have matched. Take this rare Autavia GMT, for example: Dating to the 1970s, it combines a supremely useful triple-register chronograph with a travel-ready GMT complication in a package measuring just 40mm wide. Powered by the hand-wound Valjoux 72C movement and outfitted with an iconic blue-red ‘Pepsi’ bezel, it comes paired to an incredible double-grain ‘beads-of-rice- bracelet from none other than Gay Frères. What else could you want in a watch?
Heuer Bundeswehr ($4,400)
Heuer Bundeswehr - IN THE SHOP
The reference 1550SG is one of the most venerable chronographs in military watch collecting. With an oversized, 43mm monocoque steel case, a fully graduated, bi-directional timing bezel, and dual pump pushers, its unique silhouette is instantly recognizable. The tritium lume on the stylized Arabic numerals of this particular example has taken on a cool patina, and the hand-wound Valjoux 230 is working strong and still provides welcome flyback capability. Featuring a “BUNDESWEHR”-signed caseback, it’s a collector’s item and a supremely useful object.
Heuer Camaro ($6,450)
Heuer Camaro - IN THE SHOP
Inspired by the Chevy Camaro, this Heuer of the same name represents the tail end of creative hand-wound chronograph production, just before automatic movements such as the Calibre 11 began taking over market share. Housed in a 37mm ‘squound’ case with multiple finishes, it packs a dual-register chronograph in a truly stunning ‘exotic’-dial configuration: Its silver-white dial is ringed with an outer black tachymeter scale, which is matched to black 30-minute and running seconds registers. Pops of orange, meanwhile, make for an even more distinctive look.
Heuer Carrera ($7,725)
Heuer Carrera - IN THE SHOP
If you’re a Heuer fan, you’re no doubt familiar with the round-cased Carrera chronographs of the 1960s. This slightly later 1970s model, however, adds a 38mm C-shaped cushion case and a ‘beads-of-rice’ bracelet, elevating this humble racing watch to a beautiful design object. Its second-execution ‘panda’ dial, meanwhile, is a work of art: With its silver background, black tachymeter scale and chronograph totalizers, applied indices, and orange seconds hand, it’s a model of legibility, and a reminder of why the ‘70s was one of the coolest eras in watch design.
Heuer Montreal ($6,950)
Heuer Montreal - IN THE SHOP
The Montreal, which debuted in 1972, is perhaps the ultimate Heuer ‘sleeper’ model. With its sunburst-finished cushion case, it bears resemblance to a Mark II Speedmaster — but this watch is powered by Heuer’s automatic Calibre 12 movement, which is why it features the distinctive left-hand crown and right-hand pushers of the brand’s beloved Monaco. This particular execution, a Reference 110.503, has a lovely blue dial with white chronograph totalizers, outer pulsations and tachymeter scales, a date window, and beautiful orange and red accents throughout.
Heuer Stopwatch ($3,990)
Heuer Stopwatch - IN THE SHOP
Heuer is primarily famed for its incredible, midcentury chronograph wristwatches, but its wide selection of stopwatches and other timing equipment is equally compelling and impressive. This particular stopwatch from the 1940s-1950s is cased in sterling silver — a far cry from the plastic-cased (though certainly cool!) fare from the ‘70s and ‘80s. Measuring 53mm, it features beautiful ‘Breguet’ numerals, ‘Breguet’ hands, and a dual-register chronograph in ‘up-down’ configuration with 30-minute and running seconds registers — plus a to-die-for ‘onion’ crown.
Heuer Autavia 'Orange Boy' ($12,850)
Heuer Autavia 'Orange Boy' - IN THE SHOP
The Autavia may be well known by collectors, but a wide variety of the automatic Calibre 11 and Calibre 12-powered variety exist that warrant a closer inspection. Take this Reference 1163 ‘Orange Boy,’ for example: Housed in a 42mm cushion case with left-hand crown and right-hand ‘captive’ pushes, it features a special black dial with orange accents within the chronograph totalizers, ‘sword’ handset, and hour indices. With its combination 12-hour and elapsed time bezel and beads-of-rice bracelet, it’s a rare bird in fantastic condition. Don’t let it get away!
Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer 'MKII' ($19,950)
Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer 'MKII' - IN THE SHOP
When Abercrombie & Fitch came knocking on Heuer’s door in the late 1940s looking for a watch that could track the tides, a young Jack Heuer took the problem to his high school physics teacher. Their system, based on solunar theory, didn’t sell well in the form of the Heuer Solunar, but when combined with a chronograph, it produced one of the most beautiful watches in Heuer’s catalog. Reatiled via Abercrombie & Fitch, the Seafarer went through several iterations: This Ref. 2443 Mark II, measuring 38mm, is one of the best, and has simply incredible patina.
Heuer Monte-Carlo Dash Timer Military Issued ($2,500)
Heuer Monte-Carlo Dash Timer Military Issued - IN THE SHOP
Back in the days before heads-up displays and all sorts of digital gadgetry, military aircraft featured mechanical timepieces in the cockpit. This Heuer Monte-Carlo, once used in a Harrier jet, is an unspeakably cool example: Its black plastic case houses two buttons — a push-crown at 12 o’clock to start and stop the chronograph, and a second at 2 o’clock to reset it. (Elapsed minutes are shown in a window above 6 o’clock — cool!) Coated in tritium and featuring an outer timing bezel, this mil-spec Heuer timer will make an excellent desk accessory.
Heuer Chess Timer ($1,450)
Heuer Chess Timer - IN THE SHOP
Made for Heuer by Looping, a Swiss manufacturer of travel and desk clocks, this mechanical chess timer is a vestige of a distinctly analog past. Dating to the 1960s/1970s, its stainless steel and wooden case houses dual clocks with highly legible white dials, black Arabic indices, and red sub-seconds hands. Upon finishing their move, a chess player would activate the button above their clock, thus stopping it and simultaneously beginning a countdown for their opponent. Even as a simple objet d’art, its beautiful design is sure to beautifully accentuate a desk or bookshelf.
