Review: The Cellars-Hohenort

Start us off with an overview.
Located deep in the semi-rural Constantia valley, the hotel is on big grounds and has sprawling private residences as neighbors. It is extremely private and secluded. The original owner of the Relais & Chateaux-affiliated hotel, the late Liz McGrath, established the impressive nine acres of gardens that surround the hotel. From the tree-lined driveway, which curves past a tennis court and terraced rose garden, several white-washed Cape Dutch-era hotel buildings come into view, including the original manor house, stables and wine cellar. The gardens are a profusion of fragrance and color throughout the year.

What’s the crowd like?
British, American and European families, honeymoon couples and baby boomers on tour, often repeat guests who’ve been coming here for years and know the staff by name.

Onto the good stuff: Tell us about your room.
The impeccable taste and razor-sharp eye of the late Liz McGrath, the original owner, is still in evidence (the property, part of the McGrath Collection, is still owned by her family). More old-school than modern, the country house style of decoration is constantly being refreshed and updated, but remains true to the heritage and patina of the historic property. Expect floral and striped wallpaper, comforters, plump cushions and plush carpets, and swathes of heavy curtaining that allow you to sleep in. My favorite room is 41 in the Hohenort hotel wing, housed in the original manor house. It’s one of three luxury, high-ceilinged, spacious rooms upstairs, all opening up onto a shared balcony with garden and mountain views. In total there are 27 rooms, 18 suites, and the Madiba Villa (named after Nelson Mandela, with a mini-library of titles about the legend) with three bedrooms and a private pool. Not all rooms have a veranda or balcony, so enquire when booking.

Were there any details that made you go, "Wow?"
Molten Brown in the suites; locally produced Charlotte Rys in the rooms. Fresh roses and other seasonal blooms are a charming touch. Free wifi, while not fast, is adequate and available everywhere.

How about the food?
There are two excellent, well-respected restaurants, one being the Greenhouse in the Hohenort manor house (one of the country’s top restaurants for special-occasion dining), Executive chef Farrel Hirsch and his team wow with tasting menus featuring local and heritage ingredients that tell stories about the Cape, paired to lesser-known wines of the region. In summer, it’s open for lunch as well as dinner (dinner only in winter). Breakfast (included in the room rate) is served in the light, bright The Conservatory, located in the Cellars building, which is also a fabulous choice for lunch or afternoon tea followed by a stroll through the gardens. Fresh produce and herbs for both restaurants are grown in the hotel’s extensive kitchen garden. Sunday lunch (a proper English roast) is an institution and prices here offer excellent value for money. Don’t miss the homemade scones at breakfast, or the Cape Malay speciality, bobotie, made with spiced lamb, for lunch.

Anything else you think we should know about?
Don’t miss the great little spa for a hydrating facial, summer-ready pedicure, and a tension-dissolving massage. There are two heated swimming pools, a tennis court and, most surprisingly, a Gary Player-designed putting and chipping green. Children are welcome.

Bottom line: worth it, and why?
The hotel is minutes from Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens and close to Constantia’s boutique wineries and top restaurants, including La Colombe. Access to the southern reaches of the Cape Peninsula, including Cape Point, is easy from here, while the city centre (Waterfront, Robben Island, and Table Mountain aerial cableway) is about 20 minutes by car. There’s a great little spa for a hydrating, hardworking QMS facial, pedicures, manicures and massages. There are two heated swimming pools, a hair salon, gym, and a tennis court. The bar serves local wines by the glass on the terrace, and wedding ceremonies are often held in the gardens. Children are welcome, as are well-behaved dogs on leads.

This is a sophisticated country house hotel set in nine acres of gardens with two excellent restaurants on site, and several more in close proximity. You could call it the best of both worlds—halfway between the city’s main tourist attractions and the natural splendor of the southern reaches of the Cape Peninsula.