Review: Mount Nelson, A Belmond Hotel, Cape Town

Start us off with an overview.
A wide, palm-lined driveway leads past lush lawns and flower beds to the grand porticoed entrance. What sets this venerable hotel apart is its distinct sense of place and prime location in the historical heart of the city between Table Mountain and the Company’s Gardens. Painted pink since 1918 (signifying peace at the end of World War I), the ‘Nellie’ is Cape Town’s ‘grande dame’, and dates back to 1899. Regular updates help to keep everything looking shipshape. There are 198 rooms and suites spread over several floors and buildings, linked by nine-acre English country gardens—an oasis in the middle of the city.

What’s the crowd like?
Regulars, especially Brits, who treat the hotel like a second home, honeymooners, multi-generational families.

Now, onto the good stuff: Tell us about your room.
Its 198 rooms and suites are spread over several floors and buildings, including a row of restored Victorian-era cottages, and all feature elegant, deeply romantic or elegantly serene interiors with lavish fabrics, the recent work of London-based designer Inge Moore. Most recently I stayed in one of the historic cottages - the stuff of English country fantasies, complete with a teeny-tiny rose garden behind a white picket fence—and in one of the big suites in the main building (geared to in-room dining or reading one of the brilliant books from the private library.

How the little details, like the mini bar, or the WiFi?
It’s best to personalize your mini bar prior to arrival, especially if you want to sample local craft beers or small-batch gins. On a hot summer’s afternoon, there’s no better place to be than at one of the two pools (one is adults-only) with a cocktail and a good book.

How were the dining options?
The Oasis Restaurant, overlooking the main swimming pool and garden, serves possibly the best hotel breakfast in the city—so many choices, all made in house—and it’s included in the room rate. The light, bright restaurant also does all-day dining in summer, convenient if you’re lounging poolside. The Lounge and Planet Bar have their own menus for light meals, including fabulous salads, a gourmet burger and vegan dishes, too. In the evenings, after a drink under the stars at sophisticated Planet Bar (order the mushroom-filled empanadas as a snack), choose dinner at the sociable Chef’s Table, an opportunity to dine in the kitchen with executive chef Rudi Liebenberg and be part of the behind-the-scenes cooking action while learning about the chef’s commitment to sustainable, ethical sourced, seasonal ingredients. The new dinner-only Lord Nelson Restaurant boasts antique Union Castle shipping line chairs, ornate pressed ceilings and silver service. Lavish teas in the lounge are an institution - available throughout the day, with or without a guided tasting of some of the more than 100 teas with a tea sommelier.

How about the staff? Did anyone knock you off your feet?
Many of the staff have worked here for decades, including Joey Michaels who has been guest relations manager for 28 years. His recommendations and insider advice are 100 percent dependable. Test him!

Anything else you want to shout out?
Stroll past the tennis courts down Government Avenue into the Company’s Gardens or explore the cafes, bars and boutiques on trendy Kloof Street. The spa’s eight treatment rooms are tucked away in a heritage Victorian building—tranquil and quiet. Try the locally made, plant-based Africology products, which smell fabulous and have nourishing, restorative properties for sun-parched skin. The hotel is surprisingly kid-friendly, with everything from babysitters to a teen hang-out room, a heated pool and tennis courts, and mini spa treatments. Don’t miss the lavish afternoon tea—a Mount Nelson institution (still the best in the city).

Bottom line: Worth it, and why?
The Mount Nelson holds many trump cards, not least its historic location, unique garden setting and old-school vibe. But what really sets this venerable hotel apart is its distinct sense of place—a tough act to follow for newer contenders in the luxury arena.