Solo Travel

A Solo Traveler’s Guide to Napa Valley

Tastings rooms have reopened, and going it alone may be the best way to visit this popular destination.
Indian Springs Napa Valley
Courtesy Indian Springs Calistoga

After months of being shut down, Napa’s restaurants, wineries, and hotels are open once again, so if you're looking for a change of scenery, it could be the perfect spot for a much-needed solo vacation. While Napa Valley is an obvious destination for couples celebrating anniversaries and weddings, northern California wine country might not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of taking a solo trip. But why not? If you do a little legwork before you go, being a party of one can work to your advantage here.

The key is planning ahead. If you don’t, you could find yourself struggling to get into the wineries you really want to visit and feeling overwhelmed by the valley, which is bigger than many assume—it includes five cities and more than 400 wineries throughout its 30 miles. Particularly during these times of limited capacity, plan to make reservations in advance. We’ve put together a helpful guide to navigating Napa on your own. All you have to do when you get there is relax and enjoy your own good company (and, of course, wear a mask).

Wine

While many wineries around Napa Valley accepted walk-ins for tastings pre-COVID-19, all tastings now are by appointment only—so wineries can limit the number of visitors, minimize guest-staff interaction, and ensure their guests and staff are as safe as possible. When you do score that tasting appointment, expect masks, one-way foot traffic signs, and in some cases, pouring your own wine and drinking out of plastic glasses. (If you like to talk tasting notes or listen to the winemaker wax poetic about the terroir, you might be a bit disappointed right now.) Some wineries are asking guests to sign a liability waiver, too. It’s certainly a different Napa experience than in the past, but it’s in the best interest of keeping you and everyone at the wineries safe.

Here are some recommendations depending on what kind of winery experience you want to have.

Established Juggernauts

If it’s strictly the wine you’re coming for, be sure to visit star winemakers like Corison, Stony Hill, Caymus, Shafer, Joseph Phelps, Silver Oak, Heitz, and Wheeler Farms by the Araujo family.

Old World Meets New

For those who want to feel like they might have escaped to a European wine country (as they can't right now), there are historic estates like Inglenook, the oldest winery in Napa, owned by six-time Oscar winner Francis Ford Coppola, and Chateau Montelena, which looks more like an English castle than a local winery. In that same vein, Domaine Carneros has a grand, French-inspired chateau and stunning estate—it’s the perfect spot to spend the afternoon sipping fizz and eating artisanal cheese.

Ashes and Diamonds adds a bit of mid-century cool to its California cabs.

Courtesy Napa Valley

New-ish

For more modern and state-of-the-art vibes, check out wineries like Promontory or Ashes & Diamonds, right off Highway 29.

Art Meets Wine

Art lovers won’t want to miss The Hess Collection high on top of Mount Veeder—the winery doubles as a museum housing Donald Hess’ impressive private art collection, featuring work by legends such as Frank Stella and Robert Rauschenberg. Book a private, guided tour and tasting in advance of your visit ($65 per person, for Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays starting July 3). Hall also offers a wine tasting and art tour ($60 per person for 60-90 minutes) of Craig and Kathryn Hall’s collection, which includes artists like John Baldessari and Nick Cave.

Dining

It’s best to make dinner reservations before you visit, no matter how big or small your party is, particularly due to the limited seating options during the pandemic. Many of the valley's premier names will be ready to welcome you back though. Here's what to expect.

Fine Dining

The dinners to book well in advance include The French Laundry (reservations are now open for dining starting July 8), SingleThread in Sonoma (re-opens July 2 for dine-in service Thursday through Sunday and weekend lunch service), and The Restaurant at Meadowood (re-opened July 1).

Walk-Ins Welcome

While some of Napa's heavy hitters will require a reservation, the beauty of needing a table for one is that you might be able to squeeze in at restaurants you otherwise couldn’t get into without a coveted reservation. Chef Christopher Kostow’s casual, family-style restaurant The Charter Oak in St. Helena has limited walk-in availability for lunch, brunch, or dinner in their courtyard, where you can enjoy a seasonal, California-style cuisine along with cocktails and a large wine list that highlights California wines. Nearby Press is an excellent steakhouse that features the largest collection of Napa Valley wines in the world as well as a brand new beer garden, where you can enjoy finger foods (think: wagyu hot dogs and oysters on the half shell) and craft brews on the weekends.

Christopher Kostow's Charter Oak is offering relaxed courtyard dining this summer.

Kelly D Puleio/Courtesy Charter Oak

In downtown Napa, pop in for a glass of wine at Compline Wine Bar (walk-ins are welcome, though reservations are advised). The vibe is laid-back, the wine list is ever-changing and full of exciting options (plenty of great tastes by the glass), and if you’re hungry, order the duck fat fries and the burger, served on a Model Bakery bun. If you're in the mood for a low-key night luxuriating in your hotel room bathtub, pick up a bottle of wine from Brown Estate's tasting room, also in downtown Napa (currently only open for curbside pickup), before you head back.

Casual Eats

For breakfast and lunch, stick to more casual options so you can be flexible while running around to tastings. Grab a breakfast sandwich and a coffee from Model Bakery in the morning; hit Gott’s Roadside for a burger and fries or tacos at lunch; or pick up sandwiches from Oakville Grocery or Contimo Provisions for a picnic.

In Yountville, Ciccio is a perennial local favorite for a low-key but wildly delicious Italian dinner. They’re open for takeout Wednesday through Sunday right now (order ahead online). You can’t go wrong with a signature negroni and the Summer Squash Pizza.

Hotels

Hip and Affordable

Napa Valley doesn’t have many good options when it comes to well-priced hotels (notable when you aren’t splitting the room with anyone else), but the hip, renovated motel vibe Calistoga Motor Lodge is a pet-friendly and reasonable option. There’s a geothermal mineral water-fed pool, spa, plenty of yard games to play and Tank Garage just down the street when you’re ready for more wine.

Calistoga Motor Lodge is a new school old school motel.

Courtesy Calistoga Motor Lodge

Centrally Located

On the flip side, you might find it’s worth it to spend the extra money to be in one of the busier downtowns, like Yountville, where you can walk to Bouchon in the morning to get a coffee and fresh pastries or walk home with your pizza from Ciccio. The newly renovated Hotel Villagio and new Vintage House in downtown Yountville have fresh new guest rooms and plenty of programming to keep you busy, from complimentary bikes to wine tastings available on the property.

All-Out Luxury

If the spa is the main draw for you, look no further than Meadowood Napa Valley. The iconic Relais & Chateaux property just recently finished renovating its three pools, fitness center, and spa, all designed by Backen & Gillam Architects.

Things To Do

There comes a point in every wine country vacation when you need a break from tastings. When that time comes, get a fresh juice or a smoothie from Hudson Greens & Goods or cappuccino at Ritual, both conveniently located in Oxbow Market in downtown Napa. Afterward, walk over to the CIA at Copia and spend the afternoon taking a cooking course like Grilling Like A Pro or Seasonal Cocktails from The Garden (classes resume in August).

You can still get a full pampering at Solage Calistoga.

Courtesy Solage Calistoga

If you’re feeling the need to detox, take a dip in the mud baths at Indian Springs in Calistoga, which re-opens its spa in late July. For a more luxe option, try the spa at Solage, also in Calistoga. Active types won’t want to miss Skyline Park, where there are more than 25 miles of trails for hiking and biking. For a more intense workout, take the ridge trail, and for something more leisurely, the two-and-a-half-mile main trail will take you to Lake Marie, where you can catch views of San Francisco on a clear day.

Spend the rest of the afternoon strolling around Yountville, where you can catch a glimpse of chef Thomas Keller’s impressive French Laundry gardens.

Getting around

If you plan to drink, Uber or a car service are your best bets for transportation. An Uber from SFO to downtown Napa is typically just over $100. While in Napa Valley, note that while both Uber and Lyft are available, there are far fewer drivers than in major cities, so expect wait times. Alternatively, Napa Red Cab is a trusted local taxi service you can set up in advance to take you around. Rates start at $65 per hour for a minimum of three hours.

If you won't be drinking while in Napa, a rental car is the best way to get around. Pick up the car at SFO when you fly in and drop it off when you fly out. Hertz, Enterprise, and Alamo all have outposts at the airport. It takes roughly an hour and a half (depending on traffic) to get from SFO to downtown Napa by car. A small car will cost around $50 per day.