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“Every day we look at these mountains,” Spiros Tsoumanis tells me from the terrace of Astra Inn, his restaurant and guesthouse in Papingo, a tiny village in the Epirus region of northwestern Greece. “And it's like looking at them for the first time.”
It's dusk, and behind him the ridge of the range looms skyward, its jagged peaks catching and reflecting the light. Bundled up against the cold, thin air, we watch as the rock face turns a brilliant purple-red and then deepens to a velvety black.
I first discovered this pocket of the country seven years ago, while traveling around with my then partner, who is Greek. We ventured into Zagorohoria, a rugged part of Epirus in the Pindus Mountains known for its cluster of 46 traditional stone villages, and wandered among them, hiking over vaulted stone bridges and snacking on lamb chops in modest tavernas. The relationship ended, but my love affair with the area continued. Last December, I decided to return to Epirus—on my own this time.
Ioannina, the gateway to the region, is a short flight from Athens, where I've lived since 2017. Built along Pamvotis Lake, the city is famous for its Ottoman ruins, which are some of the best preserved in the country. During the day I spend there, I stop by the family-owned bakery Select for bougatsa, a custard pie, then hop a ferry to the island at the center of the lake to see the frescoes of the 13th-century Monastery of Philanthropenoi: ancient monotheistic Greek philosophers and gruesome depictions of martyrs' deaths.
The next morning, I make the hour-long drive to Papingo, famed for its rock pools—places where the water, trickling down from the mountaintop, has eroded the karst landscape to create a series of glassy terraces and waterfalls.
“This is a hiker's paradise,” Vassilis Nasiakos, owner of Saxonis Guesthouse, tells me over coffee. In spite of the gathering rain clouds, we forge ahead with our planned trek along Voidomatis Springs Trail. After a short drive to the nearby village of Vikos, we begin our trudge down to the icy-blue river that cuts through the gorge, passing just one other pair of hikers. On the riverside, I spot the 16th-century Panagia Spiliotissa Monastery and duck through its hobbit-size doors, surprised to find another spectacular set of Orthodox frescoes. Afterward, we sit by the springs, which bubble up from beneath tree roots, and slowly peel clementines, gathering our strength for the hike back up.
I leave Papingo at dawn and drive a few hours southeast to the Grand Forest Metsovo. Built in the traditional style of the area, with flat wooden roofs and vaulted ceilings, the resort sits nestled in the mountains with a view of Metsovo village. “This is a mountain with a hotel, not the other way around,” says owner Ellie Barmpagiannis as we sit before the lobby's roaring fireplace.
The next thing I know, I'm lost in the forest with resident truffle hunter Katerina Nola, who grips the leashes of two wily Lagotto Romagnolo pups as a third darts into a stream.
Truffle hunting goes at lightning speed—you have to move quickly to grab the goods before the dogs eat them. We collect a dozen before heading back to Nola's cottage to enjoy a parade of dishes incorporating our haul: creamy pasta, roasted boar with potato gratin, and for dessert, yogurt and honey. She sends me off with a bottle of truffle oil and a white truffle the size of my fist.
On my last morning, I wake to a dusting of snow—the season's first. I drive to the airport under a white blanket of silence, contemplating the scenes of these past few days. Now I can say that Epirus belongs to me alone.
Plan it
While the writer arranged her own trip to Greece's Epirus region, Top Travel Specialist Thodoris Athanasiadis of Hellenic Adventures can craft a similar itinerary—including hiking among historic sites and monasteries.
More historical treks
Artisans of Leisure founder Ashley Isaacs Ganz recommends the Peak District National Park in England for travelers who like to combine hiking and cultural pursuits. Custom itineraries can include stops at historic estates, famous gardens, UNESCO sites, and ancient ruins. Eight days from $15,000; artisansofleisure.com
Walk along terraced rice paddies and through perfectly preserved villages during a seven-night journey from Hanoi to the northern provinces of Ninh Bình and Hòa Bình. The trip in Vietnam is designed by Butterfield & Robinson specialist Nathan Lane to help visitors make memorable connections with locals.
Rather than driving to the Merzouga Desert directly from Marrakech—a 10-hour haul—Wix Squared director Alex Wix suggests breaking up the journey into a series of one-night stops. You'll delve deeper into Moroccan culture while staying in small towns and wandering through the foothills of the Anti-Atlas.
This article appeared in the April 2023 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.
