Tinned fish is swimming against the tide
Once a staple of wartime diets, it is now a social-media phenomenon
Mei Liao pulls back the can’s lid to reveal sardines swimming in a garlic and herb butter. In other videos she stuffs russet-coloured smoked mackerel into a sandwich or arranges sprats with capers and cucumber. Ms Liao says tinned fish is often considered “akin to cat food or bunker food”. But, posting as @daywithmei, she has turned it into a viral treat: her videos have millions of views on TikTok.
Culture August 3rd 2024
From the August 3rd 2024 edition
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