Almost every surfer I know has recommended this, so I finally read it. I've never really found a surf book I liked, but this was closest. I'm not sureAlmost every surfer I know has recommended this, so I finally read it. I've never really found a surf book I liked, but this was closest. I'm not sure if the author and I would have been surf buddies (he's 50, a longboarder, picks fights, and used to run drugs), but he's definitely a great story-teller. And his adventures traveling from Mexico to Costa Rica are a trip. He does a great job weaving in stories from his younger days, stories of his pot smuggling days, and stories of his journey to make a very good beach read. I loved hearing the stories of all the people he meets - half the expats down south are 'on the run' - and have great stories :)
Aside from the good storytelling I felt there was depressing undertone to the book, as if the author was never quite satisfied with his life regardless of what happened to him. This makes sense I suppose given he's kinda having a midlife crisis - but it didn't amp me up with enthusiasm for life. But on the positive side, it did gave me a strong thirst to explore central america soon - and to go surfing :) ...more
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