Fledgling FL Microbrewery Wins National Honors Amid Pandemic

TARPON SPRINGS, FL — Approaching retirement after full-time careers in the Air Force and Army, longtime friends Ramey Simpson and Jerry Brown decided to pool their resources and launch a modest microbrewery they could build on and operate after leaving the military.

"We're both nearing the end of our military careers and we were thinking about what we'd do once we were retired," said Simpson. They agreed to turn their love of craft beer into a business.

In November 2019, they opened 5 Branches Brewing, paying homage to the five branches of the military - the Army, Navy, Air Force, Marines and Coast Guard.

"We're proud of our service and wanted to honor the men and women who serve our country," Simpson said.

The two friends labored weekends building the one-of-a-kind bar decorated with thousands of pennies under glass and recruited local artist Emily Tayman to create mural of a giant squid in deference to the brewery's location on the famous Tarpon Springs Sponge Docks.

They couldn't have chosen a worse time to start a business.

Just months after celebrating the grand opening of their brewery at 531 Athens St., the coronavirus pandemic was declared.

"We were shut down for six months," said Simpson.

It appeared as though their venture into brewing beer would be short-lived.

"We were more fortunate than a lot of small businesses during the pandemic," Simpson said. "We were still earning paychecks from the military, so we didn't have to worry about supporting our families."

With their business closed and no end to the pandemic in sight, Simpson and Brown turned their attention to honing their brewing skills and pursuing the perfect stout.

The result was a Russian Imperial stout they dubbed "Doggin Wrench." The beer was well-received by friends and customers so, on a lark, Simpson and Brown decided to enter it in one of the country's largest beer competitions - the 34th annual Great American Beer Festival held in Boulder, Colorado, Oct. 16.

"We're fearless," Simpson joked when asked why they aimed for the national spotlight rather than starting with a smaller, local competition."We're not afraid to try anything."

Hosted annually by the nonprofit Brewers Association, last year's festival attracted 8,806 entries from 1,720 breweries in all 50 states and Washington, D.C. A committee of 115 judges from 21 states were tasked with choosing the best beers in 91 categories.

With coronavirus positivity rates on the increase, organizers opted to host the event virtually for the first time.

Considering the difficult circumstances small breweries faced during the pandemic, Chris Swersey, competition manager for the Great American Beer Festival, said the association was surprised at the number and quality of the entries it received.

"The beers entered into the competition were as impressive and innovative as ever,” Swersey said. “This has arguably been one of the most challenging years breweries have ever faced, so we hope these awards serve as a symbol not only of brewing excellence but also the resiliency of the craft brewing community as a whole.”

Newbie brewers Simpson and Brown didn't think they stood a chance of winning against seasoned brew masters and well-established, award-winning breweries. Both the fathers of two kids, they spent that Friday evening with their families instead of tuning into the virtual Great American Beer Festival awards ceremony.

Later that night, Simpson and Brown learned they'd not only won a silver medal for Doggin Wrench in the Imperial Stout Category but received awards for Very Small Brewing Company of the Year and Very Small Brewing Company Brewer of the Year, honors reserved for breweries that produce less than 1,000 barrels a year.

"We were floored," Simpson said. "We didn't see that coming. It was crazy. We were one of only seven Florida breweries to win an award."

According to Swersey, 5 Branches Brewing was among 337 first-time entrants in the competition. Only 19 of them walked away with an award.

Now back in business following the reopening of breweries and bars in Florida, Simpson and Brown proudly display their three national honors at 5 Branches Brewing.

The 294-square-foot brewery produces a constantly changing selection of small batch brews from pale ales to well-aged stouts, bottled or in cans to go.

Currently on tap are:

• Blood Orange Raspberry Wheat Experimental, a red wheat beer with hints of blood orange and raspberry
• Major Tom's Belgian Quad, a dark, mellow ale, high in ABV, low bitterness with a slight molasses sweetness
• Mello Vibes hard seltzer, a lemon coconut creme hard seltzer, named for their friend, steel drummer Mello Vibes Proctor.
• Giggle Shark, an American IPA

To satisfy hunger pangs, 5 Branches Brewing also offers a limited menu featuring gourmet hot dogs like the "Pop It Like It's Hot," a jalapeño popper-inspired hot dog, slightly spicy with a bit of crunch, and the "Spring Bayou," a spicy slaw dog served on a warm bakery bun, topped with a spicy ketchup, sliced pickles, a smear of mustard, a mound of creamy slaw and a sprinkle of crunchy crushed potato chips.

The two brew masters are also committed to supporting local musicians. The brewery offers live music every Saturday from 7 to 10 p.m. and an open mic night with host Glenn Lee every Wednesday from 6:30 to 9:30 p.m.

"We have been running open mic for a few months and have seen some fantastic local talent," Simpson said.

5 Branches Brewing is open Tuesday from 1 to 8 p.m., Wednesday and Thursday from 1 to 9:30 p.m., Friday from 1 to 10 p.m., Saturday from noon to 10 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 8 p.m.

The 2021 Great American Beer Festival will once again take place in a virtual format. For deadlines, click here.