Pounta
In Hora, Pounta’s tables are dotted throughout a shaded back garden. Order courgette fritters or stews of rabbit and white onion. Crockery is often for sale, people dropping in for a pastry and leaving with four hand-turned plates.
Address: Pounta, Chora - Folegandros, 84011, Greece
Telephone: +30 2286041175
Website: pounta.gr
Kalymnios Restaurant
At portside Kalymnios Restaurant, tables are positioned as balm to the people reluctantly heading home on the ferry. Stuffed squid, sardines and gilt-head bream are served with white beans the size of scallops.
Address: Kalymnios Restaurant, Karavostasi, Karavostasis 84011, Greece
Telephone: +30 694 422 3808
The first thing I see is Achilles. Chalked onto the stone pontoon of Folegandros’s port as I scrabble off the boat, a drawing of the Trojan war hero done in the style of a Jean Cocteau sketch – lips set like patience, far-shooting eyes. When I ask Angelika, a waitress in one of the cafés on the sand beyond the vessels, who drew it, she shrugs, her young face glowing pink in the lunchtime heat. ‘This morning he was just there!’ The island’s lone taxi is parked up outside a shop selling inflatable bananas that nobody buys and local olive oil leaking dark-greenly out of plastic tubs. Angelika hugs her tray. ‘Nothing happens around here,’ she glooms, expression now teenagerishly solemn. ‘Nothing, just nothing…’