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Anyone born in the ‘80s knows it was a decade famous for leg warmers, epic sci-fi blockbusters and droppin’ E's (among other things). It was also a time of real change in the world of watches. Innovation was rife, Gerald Genta was Gerald Genta-ing, and watches were hitting mainstream culture – which is why there are so many epic birth year watches in the '80s.
Birth year watches are a great way of marking a birthday, and feeling doubly connected to a watch on your wrist, so we asked the experts to pick out their faves from every year in the '80s.
1980: Classic Hublot
To most, the Big Bang means the creation of the universe. To us, it shouts Hublot. Regarded as one of the brand's most popular watches, it's known for its immensity, and classic lines. If you consider the Hublot Big Bang the brainchild of the modern day, then the Classic Hublot is the epic Godfather, from which it takes its references. Kickstarting the decade with a surprise, Hublot’s Classic model typifies the brands “overtly eccentric and flamboyant [attitude],” shares founder of @fuguewatches, Celi Leopoldo. “The 1980 Hublot Classic was all that with a sprinkle of Italian flair, keeping it elegant and wearable: a sophisticated case design made it look precious and contrasted with the rubber strap that made easy to wear. It was a fitting idea for a watch inspired by a porthole and the yachting lifestyle which was very popular around that time. It resulted to be an extremely prolific platform for creativity and has seen many interpretations to this day. By mixing styles and genres, it helped define a new category of watches that blend casual and formal effortless.”
1981: Rolex GMT Master REF 16750
No decade goes by without Rolex being Rolex and doing something big. Between the ‘70s and ’80s, Rolex was riding the high of this dual-coloured bezel, or what you might know as the Pepsi Rolex. Supposedly released at the beginning of the '80s, (the history books are a little cloudy here), it remained in production until 1988. A fairly short stint for the life of a watch. So if you can get your hands on one, such as this 1981 model, you’re talking the good stuff. With a quickset date function and a hacking second hands feature, it meant that the watch could be set to the exact second. The 16750 (I struggle to remember PIN codes so we suggest writing that one down) also featured sapphire crystal, as opposed to earlier acrylic crystals and a slightly larger case at 40mm.
1982: Seiko TV Watch
Ahead of its time given the launch of full daytime television services in 1986, Seiko continued to send seismic ripples through the watch world – following their catalytic actions inducing the quartz crisis in 1969 – with the launch of the Seiko TV Watch in 1982. James Bond enthusiasts will already be familiar with the model no doubt, as Roger Moore donned the model a year later in Octopussy, but with a 1.2 inch integrated liquid crystal display, you could connect to the ether by plugging in an external device with a cable and connector. Sounds simple enough today, but ground was truly broken. In fact, Seiko’s gimmick feels arguably prophetic for the small-screened Apple Watches, now worn on more than 100 million wrists. Think of it like ‘Simon says’ but ‘Seiko says’ and the rest will follow.
1983: G-Shock DW-5000C
They say the best things in life don’t cost money. But may we alter that slightly? The best things in life cost less money. Case in point: the Casio G-Shock. A household name, as universally recognised as Coca Cola and McDonalds, the 1983 release of the G-SHOCK hit the watch market with a big. Wanna look cute? G-SHOCK. Wanna take a hike? G-SHOCK. “It marked an unheard of level of shock resistance in wristwatches,” shares freelance watch journalist, Alan Seymour. “The likes of Breguet with 'pare-chute' and Certina with Double Security had made preceding strides in this field, but the complex and intricate nature of a mechanical calibre meant there would always be a limit as to what they could endure. With the G-Shock, one's timekeeper could now, without impingement, truly serve its wearer in virtually all scenarios.” Which is why you’ll see Kimmy K donning it at the grocery store; the Biebs wearing it on stage, to Spike Lee courtside. Shock away, wherever you please.
1984: Breitling Chronomat
Not just experts in fine watchmaking, Breitling has long been leaders in creating portmanteaus. Chronograph and automatic? Chronomat, duh. As Breitling began thinking about its big 100-year milestone, what better blow out than starting a revolution? After taking over Breitling in the thick of the quartz crisis – a bold move in itself – Ernest Schedier wanted to put the mechanical chronograph back in focal view. While the hubbub of slim watches with tiny quartz movements was in vogue, Breitling embraced the chronograph once more, putting mechanical watches back on the map with the return of this collection. “The 1984 Chronomat is a watch that could easily be identified as a '90s watch. It’s bulky and a bit gawky,” shares vintage watch collector, Bas of Vintage View. “It would probably be the reason why it got so popular because the design aesthetics would dominate for the next 15-20 years. It’s the pre-runner on everything that would be in the same space of watch design. [One of the] big names [then] was Breitling. It was the watch to have.”
1985: Cartier Pasha de Cartier
When in need of a design to get the people talking, summon the design God of horology: Gerald Genta. A smart move from Cartier’s CEO Alain-Dominique Perrin, collaborating with Genta’s erudite mind in 1985 (post Genta’s own AP Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus pandemonium) to produce the Pasha de Cartier. The story goes that in the early ‘30s the Pasha of Marrakesh, Thami El Glaoui, commissioned a one-of-a-kind model from Mr Louis Cartier himself. Mr Cartier delivered, and Genta paid homage to this with a model featuring a large circular dial with crown caps: aka the Pasha. Geometrically speaking, Cartier were plugging square eyes at the time, with the success of the Cartier Tank, but this new spherical identity sent the French Maison to new horological heights. Another victory for Genta.
1986: TAG Heuer Formula 1
The watch world might be presently beefing about a certain plastic watch collaboration, but the plastic bezels on TAG Heuer’s first Formula One watch will forever be applauded. Rewind. In January 1986, TAG acquired the rest of its name we know (and love) today, Heuer. Challenged to create a watch for the launch, the merger opted for a colourful, inexpensive quartz watch celebrating Formula 1 (in homage to Jack Heuer relationship with the motorsport, and TAG Heuer’s involvement with Marlboro McLaren in the days of pre-papaya.) Today, these steel core cased, rubber strapped beauties are experiencing a real boom, perhaps given the popularity of Drive to Survive. Scoring one of these sought-after babies might not get you the ticket you want into the paddock lane just yet, but you’ll be fully immersed into the fan club of Formula 1. We’ve all gotta start somewhere, right?
1987: Bvlgari BVLGARI
Big things were happening in 1987. The Simpsons began as an animated short; Michael Jackson released the hit album Bad; and the lift from Dirty Dancing made its way onto the big screen. Elsewhere in culture, Louis Vuitton and Moët Hennessy officially began holding hands, while George Michael elevated Bulgari into pop culture, by being photographed with one of its most iconic watches. If we’re being technical, the watch launched over a decade prior, but captured in one of Michael’s (RIP) most recognised photos, the ‘portrait of the artist’ (IYKYK) dons a Bvlgari BVLGARI watch, once again honouring the work of the men who just never stopped: Mr Genta. “It’s an iconic design by Genta for a famed jewellery house,” shares horological researcher and expert watch spotter, Nick Gould (@niccoloy). “[Particularly] utilising their name around the bezel. With its round case, it makes it an attractive looking watch paired on a leather strap. With a quartz movement, it made it perfect for just picking it up and strapping it on to wear.” In my horological dreams, Michael is singing ‘I think you’re amazing,’ to this watch.
1988: Rolex Day-Date ‘Birch Burlwood’
Everyone loves an offbeat Rolex. And in true ‘80s eclectic spirit: the big boys delivered. Wood on a watch? C’est magnifique! The Day Date has long been associated with the upper echelons (the ballers) of society, but the Birch Day Date really toyed with the idea of inspiring difference amongst such an enamoured model. “It reminds me of a great moment at Rolex during the ’70s and the '80s when stone dials and wood dials were like aliens in the catalogues,” notes watch enthusiast, Nicolas Amsellem. “Nowadays these dials are coming back but the emphasis is much more on stones than woods, tragically. As a bonus, these birch dials feel“kitsch” because the texture and colour was very close to the style of the great Jeep Grand Wagoneer from this period with its wood grain sticker on the doors.” In summary? “Bring back the Birch!” Save the trees and store them in your watch.
1989: Patek Philippe Calibre 89
If you look for greatness in the watch industry, you look for Patek Philippe. Whatever they touch, turns to gold. So naturally, when planning a 150th birthday, you know it’s going to be off the charts. Leaving nothing to the last minute (one lesson alone to learn from Patek), they coined the Calibre 89, the beating heart that makes a watch actually tick, nine years before it was due to be released. Considered the world’s most complex mechanical watch, it remained unrivalled in the realm of haute horology today. With 33 complications and 1,728 components, it’s genius in its finest form. “Name a watch or anything that is mechanical that keeps the time with over 1700 parts,” says watch expert and YouTube personality, Nico Leonard. “This is watchmaking at its prime. This is the highest degree of mechanical watchmaking. And it’s Patek really showing off.”
