Before we even get into a debate about what's better – manual watches or automatic watches, let's just clear up exactly what the difference between them actually is.
“In the world of mechanical watches, it all boils down to one of two things: manual winding or automatic? In a manual winding watch you manually turn the crown every day to power it. In an automatic watch, a weight attached to the back of the movement [what we call the rotor] does all the hard work for you!” shares Vincent Brasesco, VP of Sotheby’s Luxury & Watches Specialist. “As you move your wrist around over the course of the day that weighted rotor actually winds the watch for you – so it always keeps time.”
Sounds pretty simple, because it is. But watch purists in collector circles might tell you to do the opposite. “Because you wind the watch yourself, rather than using a power reserve, you build this emotional collection by keeping your watch alive. But it’s not like a Tamagotchi where you have to feed it everyday. A watch today is about convenience,” notes TAG Heuer’s Heritage Director, Nicholas Biebuyck.
So if convenience is your first language, and you were never any good at keeping your Tamagotchi alive, discover this year’s hottest automatic watches that make telling the time the easiest part of your day.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked
Audemars Piguet unveiled its box of new wrist-worn tricks for 2024 earlier this month – and in it was this 41mm selfwinding piece of sandgold. It’s a novel gold alloy whose appearance floats between looking like steel and rose gold depending on the angle. It also boasts an openworked flying tourbillon inside an already grail-worthy model. Some Royal Oak, this. POA. At audemarspiguet.com
Bulgari Bulgari 38mm
While the free-spirited nature of the ’60s and ’70s had a retro effect on watchmaking, aesthetically the influence of the ’80s was just pure glam – as demonstrated by watches like the Bulgari Bulgari. And the Italian’s are back playing with this classic. Its 38mm smooth polished gold case brings with it visions of Wolf of Wall Street excess, which seemed to excite Jeremy Allen White at this year’s Golden Globes. £12,700. At bulgari.com
TAG Heuer Carrera
Deep emerald dials are in again thanks to this new version of the TAG Heuer Carrera 39mm. Sporting the same off-centre style as last year’s Skipper, the radial-brushed dial works well with the vintage-looking sub dial at 3 o'clock and TAG’s new signature Glass Box design. £6,000. At goldsmiths.co.uk
Praesidus Dirty Dozen 1945
The deep, almost plum burgundy, tropical dial of the Praesidus DD45 from British microbrand is a sight to behold. Backed up by the infamous British War Office’s Dirty Dozen backstory where the watches were originally commissioned for the soldiers of WWII, these are tough-guy watches like few others. And they are affordable, too. £687. At praesidus.com
Seiko Presage Classic ‘Araigaki'
Where salmon dials were a calling card for mid-century chrono-grails, the new Seiko Presage Classic ‘Araigaki’ is clean and modern-day equivalent. Forever the go-to brand for cool Japanese watchmaking, Seiko’s Presage series is a worthy little brother to Grand Seiko’s more upmarket offerings. A 40mm case and 100m depth rating make this a solid everyday fave. £900. At seikoboutique.co.uk
Tissot PR516
Automatic watches with battery-free movements make for great everyday timekeepers but don’t forget they can also be function-packed sports watches for action-packed days as well. All the right chronograph clues are present in Tissot’s new version of its ’70s grail, which frankly is a great alternative to other chrono-greats from years gone by – including any that travelled to the moon. £1,720. At goldsmiths.co.uk
Longines Flagship Automatic
If there’s one rule the watch industry never sticks to, it's ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’. The industry loves reissuing a watch, and delving back into yesteryear. But Longines Flagship line does so with purpose, bringing a new generation to old archives. With its lineage dating back to the '50s, this 38.5mm model, (which spoils you for choice in three colourways) and the pizazz of a Moon Phase to show you know your A-Z in complications, is otherwise a no mess, no fuss approach to dress watches, with a sturdy 72-hour power reserve to take you from Friday nights frivolities right through to Monday morning at the desk. £2850. At berrysjewellers.co.uk
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky Dweller
“In the ‘40s and ’50s, automatic watches were not very prevalent. Everything was manually wound, no one even thought about the idea of a power reserve. But then when Rolex conceived the first self-winding wrist chronometer in 1945, it very quickly became dominant. Anything that wasn’t automatic was in decline,” shares watch expert and Heritage Director at TAG Heuer, Nicholas Biebuyck. Putting the A in Automatic, showcase your allegiance to the history books with Rolex's hottest offering of the year so far with this Federer-approved remake of the Sky Dweller that made its debut in 2012. Reconfigured in a new colour palette, from black and white gold, mint green and white Rolesor, this alluring Automatic watch, fit for covering two-time zones, boasts a 72 power reserve in a bold 42mm. If Fed can, we can. POA. At rolex.com
Tudor Black Bay
If you ever find yourself playing the word association game but with watches (we know how to have a good time), sure enough at the call of the Tudor Black Bay, you’ll think David Beckham, a serious admirer of the line. Adding a new automatic BB model to its roster, with a reference number longer than a BT WiFi password (M7941A1A0RU-0001), the signature model with its black domed dial, 41mm stainless steel case with polished and satin finish offers you a sturdy 70 hours of fun before it’s time to keep moving again. £3,630. At tudor.com.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar
There’s so much more to Jaeger-LeCoultre than a mismatch of pronunciations dependent on who you ask and its grail-worthy Reverso. It’s high-time the Master Control Chronograph Calendar had its moment in the spotlight, and the new rose gold version provides exactly that. A slightly smaller power reserve than its opponents here of 65 hours, let not its smaller capacity deter you. What really makes this Automatic watch one for the wish list is the peephole into its oeuvre. “Automatic watches feature a central winding rotor, and for watches fitted with an exhibition caseback,” shares Boutros. “It’s mesmerising to watch the rotor spinning, seeing it in operation at any time.” Almost hypnotising, one might say. We also love this steel one. £18,300. At jaegerlecoultre.com
Tissot PRX
Put down your TRX and get your hands on a Tissot PRX instead, a watch that is arguably the best entry-level Automatic watch. “For the watch cognoscenti, there is a certain level of prestige associated with a mechanical winding watch – but for those looking for a great everyday watch, the ‘daily driver’ if you will – nothing is easier to live with than an automatic watch which does all the work for you, and makes sure your date and time are always correct. A power reserve in excess of 48 hours is key!” shares Brasesco. Tissot totally trumps that, going viral this year for the PRX’s whopping 80-hour reserve. That, paired with its stylish integrated bracelet (hello AP Royal Oak dreams) and paired-back dial, it’s one to tackle everyday with, where time, at least for 80 hours, knows no limits. £610. At tissotwatches.com
Seiko Prospex SJE093
Run, don't walk for this one. It’s the rebirth of Seiko’s first diver’s watch, reborn with a new slimline movement in limited edition. Water resistant to 200 metres, adding a further 50 metres since its launch in the swinging sixties, Seiko updates the fan favourite (the 62MAS for those in the know) by maintaining its staple aesthetic codes, while updating the beating heart of what makes it tick. Power reserve? 45 hours, more than enough time to do a deep dive, and then some. POA. At seikowatches.com
Hermès H08 Monopusher Chronograph
This 41mm x 41mm Automatic timepiece is a watch where worlds collide: from haute couture, sport, and haute horology. Its indistinguishable cushion shape, featuring rounded edges and short lugs, is composed of carbon fibre composite, meaning it's basically lighter than air. With an orange-rimmer pusher, integrated into the crown at 3 o'clock, offering start, stop and reset functions, it really speaks to the allure of an Automatic watch: “by simplifying the ownership experience, versus a manual mechanical watch. As long as it is worn daily or within two or three days (depending on the watch’s power reserve), there’s no need to fuss with winding the watch.” Who said style and function couldn’t live in harmony? POA. At hermes.com
TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper
Step aside Monaco, there’s a new heritage model in town. Reinventing a classic, TAG Heuer Original Skipperera – à la Skipper and Carrera – takes its colour cues from the winning yacht in the 1967 America’s Cup: the Intrepid. What makes this automatic rebirth not just another watch glancing back to the past? “It pays tribute to the original without being a copy,” shares Brasesco. “The automatic TH20-06 movement is truly excellent, with an 80 hour power reserve powering a chronograph and date – but the star of the show is that dial and glassbox crystal, while the addition of a date window at 6 makes this a great choice for everyday wearing.” It’s smooth sailing for TAG Heuer as it marks the 60th anniversary of the Carrera. £5,900. At tagheuer.com
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding
Barbenheimer proves that the money is in the marketing, but subtlety proves just as valuable a currency to AP, who this week silently dropped a new 36mm model to suss out who its real stans are. It’s certainly a more audacious approach to an automatic watch, given its white ceramic material, and silver-tone Grande Tapisserie dial with pink-gold accents. “It’s finely finished, with a superb in-house movement… it’s an automatic watch for those with small wrists or those who prefer smaller watches,” shares Phillips’s Deputy Chairman and Head of Watches, Americas, Paul Betros. It’s a watch that does all the work for you. It powers itself, and it steals every eye in the room. Small, but mighty. £45,600. At audemarspiguet.com
Bulgari Aluminum Watch
Ever since Jamie Campbell Bower sported Bulgari’s Aluminum Watch on Jimmy Fallon last summer, we haven’t stopped thinking about how much of an underdog this Aluminium watch is. Boasting 41mm, with a black rubber bezel and a black dial, its understated approach speaks to the greatness of what’s going on inside. 42 sweet hours of connectivity. From the first-generation models launched in 1998, to this year’s latest iteration dials up the diameter. And if you’re feeling sad about Wimbledon ending, lust over the Bulgari Aluminium Matchpoint, worn by ambassador at tennis maestro Andrey Rublev himself, in a shade of centre-court green. It’s even got flecks off the tennis-ball fluorescence on it too. Game, set and match for Bulgari. £3,110.00. At bulgari.com
