The most important factor in any picnic ought to be the ease and efficiency of eating it - there should never be difficulty; there should never be mess; there should always be wet wipes. Unfortunately, this is not often the case. I shall never forget a week in Cornwall with Rowley, walking miles over field and sand carrying a large, white and heavy polystyrene fish box full of stuff - and fish - with the intention of cooking it all over a meagre fire built in the perfect crevice within a cluster of rocks on the beach. This wasn't so much a picnic as a grown-up scout club. Perhaps Rowley never did scouts (I did bob-a-job week once, sweeping a few leaves for Mrs Wood up the road, but that was about it) and this was his latent manifestation of a lost youth. The eventual outcome, however, seemed too much of a fag, to be frank.
Another essential of picnic lore is that of a proper chilling of all items before setting out - particularly in the drinks department. Quite what is the point of drinking lukewarm white wine or beer? You wouldn't at home and, if in a pub or restaurant, you would surely complaint. However, on the average British picnic, on a nice, hot day, it seems almost inevitable that one's usual glass of deliciously cool Sancerre will end up little more than tepid. Just take lots of ice, for heaven's sake. It's not difficult. Supermarkets stock bags of the stuff these days, as do off-licences. Half-fill a cool box with loose ice, bury the bottles and cover with more ice. Once the wine is open and flowing, simply use the box as a huge ice bucket. For convenience, buy good-quality screw-top wines.
Here are six of my all-time favourite picnic foods, which are notable for their simplicity, ease of eating and good taste (note: pack everything in sealed, stackable plastic boxes - and remember, glass beakers and linen napkins are appreciated by everyone):
i) Boiled eggs (immerse in cold water, bring to a boil, switch off the heat, leave in the hot water for five minutes and cool under cold water - this ensures an unrubbery white and a creamy yolk), celery salt and pepper;
ii) Radishes, spring onions, peeled sticks of celery heart, plus a pot of mayonnaise for dipping;
iii) Spanish omelette (onion and potato only, please);
iv) A well-trimmed rack of lamb, roasted pink and cooled. Cut into cutlets on site, and serve with a jar of good-quality mint jelly (the Tracklements brand is excellent);
v) Smoked salmon, cucumber and cream cheese sandwiches (wrapped in damp, greaseproof paper);
vi) Raspberries or strawberries, plus a pot of crème fraîche for dipping.
There are, of course, many other things you can take...
© Simon Hopkinson, 2006.
Second Helpings Of Roast Chicken, by Simon Hopkinson, is published by Ebury Press at £12. To order a copy for £11, with free UK p&p, call 0870 836 0875 (theguardian.com/bookshop).
All recipes serve four.
Courgette, broad bean and bacon salad
Yes, I know olive oil isn't produced in Britain, so if you want to be a stickler, use vegetable oil instead.
200g peas, podded
200g broad beans, podded
200g piece streaky bacon, diced
½ clove garlic, chopped
1 sprig rosemary
Olive oil
10 baby courgettes, cut at an angle into 1cm pieces
1 handful fresh mint leaves
Blanch the peas and beans, refresh and set aside (for preference, also remove the papery skins from the beans). Sauté the bacon, garlic and rosemary in a little oil, remove from the pan with a slotted spoon, then sauté the courgettes. Mix the bacon, courgettes, peas, beans and mint. Season, and dress with a simple red-wine vinaigrette.
Crab cakes
I like these with a spicy chilli dip.
400g floury potatoes
Salt and pepper
600g crab meat
1 small onion, finely diced
3-4 spring onions, finely chopped
1 handful coriander, finely chopped
1 handful basil, finely chopped
2 red chillies, finely chopped
Juice of half a lemon
1 egg, beaten
Flour, for dusting
Vegetable oil, for shallow-frying
Cook the potatoes in salted, boiling water, drain, mash and season. Add the crab meat, onions, herbs, spices and lemon juice, and mix. Add the egg to bind. To test that it will hold, take a tablespoon of the mix, dip in flour and shallow-fry in the oil. If the cake is slightly wet, add a touch of flour; if it's not binding, add an egg yolk. Mould the mix into 10 cakes and shallow-fry. Drain on a cloth and leave to cool.
Smoked haddock and watercress tart
The pastry for the tart case is up to you - I like to enrich mine with double cream and grated cheddar.
325g undyed smoked haddock
300ml milk
1 sprig thyme
1 bayleaf
30g butter
1 banana shallot, finely chopped
1 stick celery, finely chopped
25g plain flour
2 eggs, beaten
1 bunch watercress, picked and finely chopped
2 tbsp grated cheddar
Put the haddock, milk, thyme and bayleaf in a pot and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the skin from the fish and flake the flesh. Reserve the milk.
Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5. Heat the butter in a frying pan, add the shallot and celery, and cook until soft - don't allow them to colour. Stir in the flour, cook for a few minutes, then add the reserved milk and stir until it thickens. Remove from the heat and stir in the eggs, fish and watercress. Pour into a pre-baked pastry case and sprinkle cheese on top. Bake for 25-30 minutes. Leave to cool before turning out.
Stuffed plums
4 plums, halved and stoned
10-12 almond biscuits, crushed
A dash of sparkling white wine - British, of course
Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5. Using a teaspoon, scoop out the centres of the plums, dice the scooped-out flesh and mix with the biscuits. Add enough alcohol just to moisten the mix, then spoon into the plum halves. Sprinkle any excess biscuit on top, place in a buttered oven dish, add a touch of water and bake until soft.
Angela Hartnett is executive chef at The Connaught, 16 Carlos Place, London W1 (020-7592 1222).