I’m toying with the culinary commentariat by calling this a “bucco”. The literal translation of the Milanese osso bucco is “bones with holes”: braised, cross-cut veal shanks. This follows its basic building blocks, but has a bunny in it for Easter. Wild rabbit meat is cheap, healthy, sustainable and delicious. If you’re not a convert, you can use chicken thighs instead. Traditionally, risotto Milanese would accompany osso bucco, but I like simple sage or rosemary-flavoured rice to complement the rabbit, while the kids favour a pile of buttery, herby potatoes. Well, if we’re dispensing with tradition … Go on. Live a little.
(Serves 4-6)
2 rabbits, jointed (your butcher will do this)
2 tbsp flour
4 tbsp oil
1 large onion, sliced finely
1 whole bulb of garlic, cloves peeled
2 carrots, diced or sliced
2 sticks of celery, chopped
2 bay leaves
Salt
40g butter
200ml white wine
400ml chicken stock
2 sprigs of rosemary
Dust the meat with the flour – I put mine in a sandwich bag and shake it to evenly coat. Heat half the oil in a large, deep pan and cook the meat on a high heat for a few minutes on each side.
Add the onion, garlic, carrot, celery, bay leaves, a pinch of salt and the remaining oil, and give it a quick stir. Add your butter – it may look an atrocious amount, but rabbit is very lean and needs bolstering with a good dollop of fat. You could add streaky bacon instead, if you prefer.
Turn the heat down to medium and cook gently for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to stop any thick, floury lumps forming.
Pour over the wine and stock, stirring well. Add the rosemary and bring to a boil, then cover, reduce to a simmer and cook for an hour, until the meat is tender and the sauce has thickened. You may need to add a splash of water to loosen it.
Remove from the heat, pick out the bay leaves and serve.
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