DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Boston PDF
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Boston PDF
boston
eyewitness travel
boston
Main Contributors Tom Bross, Patricia Harris,
and David Lyon
Contents
How to Use This Guide 6
Project Editor Marcus Hardy
Art Editor Nicola Rodway
Editor Simon Hall
US. Editor Mary Sutherland
Designers Elly King, Nikala Sim
Map Co-Ordinators Dave Pugh, Casper Morris
DTP Maite Lantaron
Picture Researcher Brigitte Arora
Production Michelle Thomas
Contributors
Tom Bross, Brett Cook, Patricia Harris, Carolyn Heller,
David Lyon, Juliette Rogers, Kem Sawyer
Photographers
Demetrio Carrasco, Linda Whitwam
Illustrators
Stephen Conlin, Gary Cross, Richard Draper, Chris Orr & Associates,
Robbie Polley, John Woodcock
Maps
Ben Bowles, Rob Clynes, Sam Johnston,
James Macdonald (Colourmap Scanning Ltd) Tiffany window in the Arlington Street
Printed and bound in China
Church, Back Bay
Boston
Area by Area
Beacon Hill and
West End 42
Children’s
Boston 168
Travelers’
Needs
Trinity Church, Back Bay
Where to Stay 132 (see pp96–7)
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
Boston Area by Area covers, describing its history and the area; for sights farther away,
Each of the six sightseeing areas character. For central districts, by a regional map. A simple
is color-coded for easy reference. this is followed by a Street- numbering system relates sights
Every chapter opens with an by-Street map illustrating a to the maps. Important sights
introduction to the area it particularly interesting part of are covered by several pages.
AY 11 Silvertone
W
Bookstore
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C STON AREA BY AREA OLD BOSTON AND THE FINANCIAL DISTRICT 59
See Street Finder maps 1 & 2 EE L AN
T AT
A locator map
Parker House, as well as the towering skyscrapers
of Boston’s financial district, located on the
northwest edges of this area.
OL
4 Old Corner Bookstore
RE
ST
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ST
literary heritage as a
G
SH
publishing company.
W
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1 Omni Parker House
S T R E E T
Street-by-Street Map
ARCH STREET
Key
Suggested route
drawings of all the buildings within into a steak house. Downtown Crossing
100
w
BOSTON AREA BY AREA
Prudential Center
800 Boylston St. Map 3 B3. Tel (617)
859-0648. Prudential, Hynes
Convention Center/ICA. Skywalk:
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–10pm daily;
Mapparium, where visitors
literally walk through the globe
viewing the planet from the
inside. The different colors
represent the world’s political
B A C K B AY A N D S O U T H E N D 101
. House of Representatives
This elegant oval chamber was built for the
House of Representatives in 1895. The Sacred
Stars indicate the Cod, which now hangs over the gallery, came
to the State House when it first opened in
1798, and it has since hung over any place
Entrance
KEY
4
the structure, were added in 1917. a colony through to modern
Senate Chamber
Morning
Catch a Red Line train across
the river to the college town
of Cambridge (pp110–11),
emerging at Harvard Square.
This is the site of the nation’s
oldest and most prestigious
university. Immerse yourself in
the scholarly atmosphere by
visiting Harvard Yard (pp112–
13), surrounded by lecture halls
and dormitories that cover a
broad spectrum of American
architecture. From here, head
to the eminent Harvard
University Art Museums Visitors on a relaxing Swan boat cruise in Boston’s Public Garden
12 INTRODUCING BOSTON
5 Days in Boston
•
Walk through the Harvard
and MIT campuses
•
People-watch at Faneuil
Hall and Quincy Market
•
Enjoy a hearty Italian
dinner at the North End
Day 1
Morning Start your day with a
visit to one, or both, of the city’s MIT’s Great Dome surrounded by other university buildings in the college town of Cambridge
most lauded museums: the
Museum of Fine Arts (pp106–9) Day 3 Harbor Islands. Take a step back
and the Isabella Stewart Morning Grab a coffee or tea in in time and enjoy a visit to
Gardner Museum (p105). Next, one of Beacon Hill’s (p44) several Georges or Castle Islands, and
go for a behind-the scenes tour coffee shops, then stroll through snap stunning pictures of the
at Fenway Park that allows the handsome cobblestone Boston skyline from Spectacle
visitors the opportunity to touch streets lined with impressive Island. Upon returning to the
the famous “Green Monster” million-dollar real estate, espe- Boston waterfront, head straight
outfield wall. Have lunch at the cially in the exclusive Louisburg to the North End for a bite.
Prudential Tower (p100) food Square (p46). Next, visit the
court that offers several eating acclaimed boutiques and antique Afternoon A short stroll from the
options as well as stunning views shops along the scenic Charles North End, Charlestown (p117)
from the Skywalk observatory. Street (p46). The many popular exudes history. Simply follow
cafés here offer sidewalk views. the Freedom Trail (p126–29)
Afternoon Indulge in world- and you’ll arrive at the Bunker
class shopping by visiting chic Afternoon Walk along the Hill Monument (p117), site of the
Copley Place (p101) or the two waterfront until you reach the infamous Battle of Bunker Hill.
main shopping streets: Newbury Institute of Contemporary Art Head back towards the water to
Street (p95) and Boylston Street (p76), a go-to destination for visit the historic Charlestown
(p98). A short walk away is the lovers of modern art. Special Navy Yard (p117) and the
Boston Common and the exhibits, speakers, and live music U.S.S. Constitution (p117).
Public Garden (pp48–9) where performances are commonplace.
you can enjoy a ride on the Then follow the crowds to the Day 5
Swan Boats. Round off the day charming North End, where Morning Greet the day with
with a stroll through the trendy, popular Italian eateries have a walk through Christopher
lively South End neighborhood. lines out the door most nights. Columbus Park (p75). Then walk
to the New England Aquarium
Day 2 Day 4 (pp78–9) to see the giant ocean
Morning From Boston, hop on Morning Hop on one of the tank or watch a 3D film on the
the subway’s red line until you frequent, inexpensive boats that huge IMAX screen. Then hop
reach Harvard Square (p110), shuttle visitors to the Boston aboard a Boston Duck Tour. Enjoy
an inviting neighborhood filled tasty dishes of locally caught
with eclectic shops and eateries. seafood at one of the Seaport
To best appreciate Cambridge’s District’s waterfront eateries.
(pp110–11) preeminent standing
in worldwide academia, explore Afternoon Take a walk on the
the campus of Harvard University. famous Freedom Trail (p126–29)
Enjoy lunch in Harvard Square and visit the Old State House
while watching the bustling (pp62–3), then visit the iconic
crowds of students and tourists. Faneuil Hall (p65). Next, you’ll
reach the North End, where you
Afternoon Visit one of the can sit and relax outside the Old
Harvard University Art North Church (p73). Later, laugh
Museums (pp114–16), then the night away by catching a
make the short journey to the big-name comedian at the
Massachusetts Institute of Wilbur Theatre. Or, if the weather
Technology (p111), whose allows, catch a lively rock concert
campus is filled with fascinating The entrance to Quincy Market, a hub at the city’s largest waterfront
architecture, museums, and art. of social activity in the Financial District venue, the Blue Hills Bank Pavilion.
14 introducing boston
Lester B Toronto
Pearson La ke O n t a r i o k
ta ac
Mississauga
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un nd
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Mo iro
Burlington
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Niagara Falls Rochester
St Catharines
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Atlantic
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MEXICO Williamsport
Wilkes-Barre
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PENNSYLVANIA
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Pittsburgh Allentown
Altoona
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Harrisburg
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Bedford Lancaster
Alleg
York
Philadelphia
Philadelphia Camden
Cumberland Hagerstown
Wilmington NEW
JERSEY
MARYLAND
Frederick
Baltimore
Winchester
Baltimore-
Washington Washington
Dover Delaware
WEST Strasburg Dulles
Bay
VIRGINIA Annapolis
Washington, DC
DELAWARE
VIRGINIA
For keys to symbols see back flap
putting boston on the map 15
Newport
Plattsburgh
Rumford Waterville
Burlington St Johnsbury
Augusta
MAINE
Barre
Auburn
Bridgton
VERMONT
Portland
Rutland Lebanon
NEW
HAMPSHIRE
Key
Concord Portsmouth
Highway
Saratoga
Springs Major road
Other road
See inset
map below Gloucester Railroad
Cape
Providence Cod
Kingston
Hartford
Poughkeepsie CONNECTICUT RHODE
Norwich ISLAND
Nantucket
Island
Martha’s
New Haven Vineyard
Bridgeport nd
Sou 0 kilometers 100
nd Montauk
Isla Long
Paterson
Long Island 0 miles 50
Smithtown
Newark
New York City Brookhaven
Ocean
Brockton
Woonsocket
Plymouth
0 kilometers 15 Taunton
0 miles 15
San Juan, Cape Town,
Panama Rio de Janeiro
16 iNTroduCiNg BoSToN Lowell,
Manchester
Greater Boston
129
Billerica
93
Wilmington
The city of Boston is made up of 20 separate
districts, with the central city focused around 3 62
the harbor on the Shawmut Peninsula. Much of
38
the city lies within Suffolk County, although the
greater Boston area also covers parts of Norfolk
Burlington
and Middlesex Counties. Boston is well served
by major road, rail, air, and sea links, and has a 95
38
3
Concord
Winchester
2
Lexington
Lincoln
Arlington
27
117
Belmont
Sudbury
Watertown
Wayland Weston
Marlborough 20
Waltham
90
Newton
9 Brookline
90
9
Wellesley
Framingham Natick 95
West
Worcester, Needham Roxbury
Springfield
Dedham
Sherborn
138
Westwood
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Ch
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es
Medfield 1
Bowlmouse
95
Canton
Key
Central Boston Medway
Greater Boston Walpole
Highway
Major road
Minor road Sharon
Railroad line
Providence,
New York City
For keys to symbols see back flap
Portsmouth,
putting boston on the map 17
Portland
Danvers
Manchester
114
128
95 Beverly
128 Plymouth
Point
Lynnfield
1
Reading
Salem
Peabody Bakers
Island
Wakefield
107
Marblehead
Melrose 1A Tinkers
Island
Saugus Lynn
1
Nahant
Bay
Malden
Broad East
Revere Sound Point
1 Atlantic
Somerville Ocean
Winthrop
Cambridge
Logan
Boston North International Massachusetts
Boston Bay
Boston South 0 kilometers 4
0 miles 4
South Brewster
Boston Islands
Roxbury
Hull
Dorchester
93 Quin cy H in g h a m
Bay Bay
et
Ne po ns Strawberry
Point
Milton Hingham
Quincy
3A
Cohasset
53
Braintree Weymouth
Scituate
37
Accord
3
Randolph
24
Holbrook
123
138 3A
28
Stoughton Rockland
53
18
Hanover
Abington Plymouth,
Fall River Brockton Cape Cod
INTRODUCING BOSTON 19
HISTORY OF
BOSTON
Evidence of human occupation in Massachusetts dates from around
7500 BC. By around AD 500 Algonquin Indians were widespread in the
region. Hunter-gatherers, they fished, farmed beans and pumpkins, and
hunted moose and deer. They were made up of seven tribes, the closest
geographically to present-day Boston being the Massachusetts,
Wampanoags, and Nipmucks.
Other tribes in the region included 16th century, the English, French,
the Nausets around Cape Cod, the Portuguese, Spanish, and Italians
Pennacooks farther north, and Pocumtucs explored the East Coast, whaling, fishing,
and Mohicans to the west. Their dialects and trading with the natives. In 1602
came from the same language, and their the English man Bartholomew Gosnold
physical features were similar. Each tribe sailed to Massachusetts, landing on the
lived in close-knit communities of peninsula he called Cape Cod and
approximately 250 people. traversing the island he would name
Martha’s Vineyard after his daughter.
The First Europeans He returned to England with furs from
During the Age of the Vikings, Norsemen the natives and sassafras (bark of a North
from Scandinavia adventured far from American tree) to be used medicinally.
home, reaching North America. The In 1607 James I of England offered land
coastal land of Vinland discovered by in the New World to two companies. What
Leif Erikson in around AD 1000 may is now Virginia he gave to the London
well have been on the Massachusetts company, led by Captain John Smith. To a
coast. French and Spanish fishermen group from Plymouth, England, he assigned
fished here in the mid-15th century New England and land as far south as what
and the Italian-born explorer John Cabot is now Delaware. The Plymouth Company
led an English expedition to the New set out in 1607 to found a colony along
England coast once in 1497 and again the Kennebec River in present-day Maine,
in 1498. A few years later Miguel Cortereal but the harsh winter led the company to
sailed from Portugal to Massachusetts, return to England. John Smith’s Virginia
where his ship was wrecked. His name expedition was more successful. In May
was found carved on a granite rock 1607 he arrived in Jamestown, where he
with the year 1511. Throughout the founded a permanent colony.
1608 Puritan
1497 John Cabot leads English separatists flee
Viking casket expedition to New England coast England for the
Netherlands
The first Thanksgiving at Plymouth, Massachusetts, celebrated by the Pilgrim Fathers in 1621
1620 The Pilgrims 1621 Governor John 1640 First English-language 1660 Quaker Mary Dyer
settle in Plymouth Carver and Chief book printed in America hanged on Boston Common
Massasoit sign
peace treaty 1638 Anne Hutchinson banished 1684 Charles II nullifies the
from Boston for religious beliefs Massachusetts Bay Charter
1635 Boston Latin School opens
THE HISTORY OF BOSTON 21
Revolutionary Boston
It was in Boston, the most important city in the 13 British
colonies, that ideas for independence were nurtured and
the American Revolution born. The colonists’ main quarrel
with Britain lay in taxation. The Stamp Act of 1765, and the
later Townshend Acts, which placed duties on imports,
inflamed colonists because they had no vote. “No taxation
without representation” became a common cry. The
so-called “Sons of Liberty,” led by Samuel Adams,
demanded and received the repeal of the Stamp Act. The Boston Tea Party (1773)
However, attempts to enforce the Townshend Acts led to In protest at taxation, Boston
patriots boarded three British East
the Boston Massacre, a tragedy that signaled increasingly India Company ships and threw
poor relations between Britain and its colonies. their cargoes of tea into Boston
Harbor (see p77).
1765 British Parliament 1773 Tea Act gives British East India
passes the Stamp Act Company monopoly. Boston Tea Party
British
Revenue
stamp
1765 1770
John Hancock
A key participant in the
Revolution, Hancock
was chosen as a delegate
of Massachusetts to
attend the first ever
Continental Con
gress, held in 1774.
1774 Intolerable Acts 1776 Siege of Boston ends. 1781 General Cornwallis
passed; Boston Declaration of Independence adopted surrenders at Yorktown,
Harbor is closed by Continental Congress Virginia
1775 1780
The Boston Athenaeum, first organized in 1807 but later housed in this building, which was designed in 1846
1789 Inauguration of George 1812 War with 1825 William Ellery Channing founds
Washington as president England American Unitarian Association
1800 1820
1840 1860
1988 Governor 1993 John F. 2006 Deval Patrick elected as first African-
Michael Dukakis Kennedy Library American governor of Massachusetts
1960 John F. becomes Democratic and Museum 2013 Terrorist bombings
Kennedy elected presidential candidate (see p104) opens during Boston Marathon
president kill 3 and injure many
BOSTON AT A GLANCE
Although it is a small, compact city, Boston Hill and Back Bay; examples of some of the
offers a wealth of attractions that draw best Federal architecture in the U.S., such as
visitors from all over the world. Indeed the the Massachusetts State House; and beau
range of attractions can exceed that of much tiful examples of late 19thcentury opulence
larger cities in the U.S. The sights in the center such as Trinity Church. The treasures of
and a little way out of Boston are covered in the Museum of Fine Arts and the Harvard
the Area by Area section of the book. There museums are also shown. A selection of
are historic neighborhoods, such as Beacon Boston’s best is featured below.
Newbury Street
See p95
Trinity Church
See pp96–7
CH
European, Asian, American,
AR
and Near Eastern art.
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19thcentury
AS
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social elite.
Eminent Bostonians
Founded as a refuge for religious idealists, Boston has
Boston Brahmins
always been obsessed with ideas and learning. Mark
Twain once observed that “In New York they ask what a In 1860 Oliver Wendell Holmes
(1809–94) dubbed Boston’s
man is worth. In Boston they ask, ‘What does he know?’”
prosperous merchant class
This insistence on the power of ideas has made Boston the “Boston Brahmins …
a magnet for thinkers and doers, and a hotbed of reform a harmless, inoffensive,
movements and social revolution. Education has always untitled aristocracy” (see p47).
been one of the city’s leading industries. Consequently, Any suggestion that the
Boston is disproportionately represented in the honor Brahmins were unaccom
plished, however, could not
roll of American intellectual life. Bostonians are generally be farther from the truth. Julia
considered to be liberal minded, and tend to occupy Ward Howe (1819–1910) was
the left flank of American political thought. a prominent abolitionist and
later a crusader for women’s
rights. She also penned the
Unionists’ Civil War marching
song, “The Battle Hymn of
the Republic.” Brahmin Colonel
Robert Gould Shaw (1837–63)
led the allBlack 54th
Massachusetts Regiment in
the Civil War, and Major Henry
Lee Higginson (1834–1919)
survived the war to found
the Boston Symphony
Orchestra in 1881.
Many famous authors were
also Brahmins, notably the
Lowell clan: James Russell
Lowell (1819–91) was the
Malcolm X (1925–65), one of Boston’s famous residents and head of the Nation of Islam leading literary critic of his
day, Amy Lowell (1874–1925)
19thcentury reformers, championed “free verse” and
Reformers, Rabble including Dorothea Dix (1802– founded Poetry magazine, and
Rousers and 87), who championed the Robert Lowell (1917–77) broke
Revolutionaries welfare of the mentally ill, and the barriers between formal
Even while Boston was still William Lloyd Garrison (1805– and informal verse in American
in its infancy, Bostonians 79), publisher of The Liberator, poetry. The Brahmins’ greatest
began to agitate to do things who was one of America’s chronicler was the noted
differently. Anne Hutchinson most strident voices calling for historian Samuel Eliot Morison
(1591–1643) was exiled for the abolition of slavery. (1887–1976).
heresy in 1638 (she moved Malcolm Little (1925–65) The Brahmins persist through
south to found Portsmouth, spent his adolescence in business partnerships, family
Rhode Island), while friend and Boston before converting to trusts, and intermarriage, as
fellow religious radical Mary Islam in prison and emerging highlighted in their ditty: “And
Dyer died on the Boston as the charismatic Black this is good old Boston, The
Common gallows for Muslim leader Malcolm X. home of the bean and the cod,
Quakerism in 1660 Like Malcolm X, Nguyen Where the Lowells talk to the
(see p21) . Spokesman Tat Thanh (1890–1969) Cabots, And the Cabots talk
for the Sons of spent part of his youth only to God.”
Liberty and parttime in Boston, working for a
brewer Samuel time in the restaurant
Adams (1722–1803) of the Omni Parker Inventors and
incited Boston to House Hotel (see p60). Entrepreneurs
revolution in the Traveling much of Innovation has always been a
“Boston Tea the world in his 20s, way of life in Boston. Donald
Party” (see p77). he was later to McKay’s (1810–80) East Boston
The city bubbled Abolitionist William Lloyd assume the name clipper ships revolutionized
over with Garrison (1805–79) Ho Chi Minh. international sea trade in the
B O S TO N AT A G L A N C E 33
Boston’s Architecture
Buildings followed British styles through the 1790s, when the
first American architect of note, Charles Bulfinch, defined the
Federal style. In the 19th century, Bostonians evolved a local
Victorian style, which first embraced Greek Classicism, then
French and Italian styles. Two styles of the late 19th century,
Renaissance Revival and Richardsonian Romanesque,
remained influential through World War I. In the 20th century,
Harvard University and Massachusetts Institute of Technology
(MIT) attracted many leading modern and post-modern
architects, all of whom left their mark.
BOSTON THROUGH
THE YEAR
Perhaps more than in any other city in the lists favor fiction over more scholarly texts.
U.S., Boston’s cultural life tends to follow Though the cultural life of the city tends
the academic calendar, with the “year” to flourish from fall to spring, the summer
beginning when classes commence at its months do feature many of Boston’s major
many colleges and universities in September, carnivals, festivals, parades, and free outdoor
and winding down a little with the start concerts at the Hatch Shell (see p94). After
of the summer recess in May and June. In the students’ return to their studies in the
between is so-called “ice cream” season, fall, the busy performing arts season begins,
when the warm weather causes most with symphony concerts, theater, and ballet
activities to shift out of doors, and reading continuing into the following spring.
March
Reenactment of Boston
Massacre (early Mar), Old State
House. Marks watershed event
that turned Bostonians against
their British rulers.
Boston Flower & Garden
Show (mid-Mar), various venues.
One of the oldest annual flower
exhibitions in the United States.
St. Patrick’s Day Parade
(mid-Mar), South Boston. Runners at the annual Boston Marathon, held in April
BOSTON THROUGH THE YEAR 37
Summer
When summer’s heat finally
arrives, Bostonians head
outdoors to relax on the grassy
banks of the Charles River, along
the harbor, and in the city’s
many parks. The Hatch Shell
on the Esplanade becomes
the scene of many free open-
air concerts. The grandest
celebration occurs on the
Fourth of July, with one of the
country’s greatest fireworks
displays, following an invariably Fourth of July fireworks lighting up the sky over the Charles River
rousing performance by the
Boston Pops Orchestra. parade and festival caps a Annual Festival Betances
week of celebrating diversity. (mid-Jul), South End. Annual
Bunker Hill Weekend (weekend Puerto Rican festival with
before Jun 17), Charlestown. music, dance, and food.
Costumed reenactments,
demonstrations, a parade, August
and guided tours at Bunker August Moon Festival (mid-
Hill Monument. Aug), Chinatown. Lion dance,
Dragon Boat Festival (mid- martial arts, Chinese opera.
Jun), Charles River. Traditional Dine Out Boston (late Mar
Asian dragon boat races. and late Aug), Boston and
Cambridge. Around 200
July restaurants offer low fixed-
Italian Feast Days price lunch and dinner menus.
(Jul–Aug), North End. Religious Boston Caribbean
Summer outdoor concert at Hatch Shell, processions with music Carnival (late Aug), Franklin
Charles River Esplanade and food take place almost Park. Extravagant costumes,
every weekend. music, food, and dancing.
June Boston Harborfest (week
Performing Arts Series of Jul 4). Features children’s
at the Hatch Shell (Jun–Sep), events, concerts, harbor
Hatch Shell, Esplanade. Free cruises, and a Chowder-
outdoor movies, and pop, fest on City Hall Plaza.
rock, and classical concerts. Boston Pops Annual
Cambridge River Festival Fourth of July Concert
(early Jun). Multicultural and Fireworks (Jul 4),
festival on the banks of the Esplanade. The largest of
Charles River. the free Boston Pops
Scooper Bowl (early Jun), City concerts in July.
Hall Plaza. One of the largest Bastille Day (Fri before
ice cream festivals in the U.S. Jul 14), Back Bay. Annual
Boston Pride (mid-Jun). New celebration sponsored by
England’s largest gay pride the French Cultural Center. July 4th parade, Government Center
38 INTRODUCING BOSTON
Fall
After Labor Day, Boston’s
massive student community
returns. This time also sees
the start of seasons for the
performing arts and for basket
ball and hockey. The vivid colors
of New England’s deciduous
fall trees attract thousands of
people to Boston, on their way
to backcountry tours. Mid
November brings cold weather
and the beginning of the
holiday season.
February
Winter Beanpot Tournament
Tree-lighting ceremonies (mid-Feb), TD Garden. Annual
and decorated store windows college hockey tournament
help make Boston’s cityscape between Boston College, Boston
magical at Christmas. As University, Northeastern
the old year ends, the entire University, and Harvard
city joins in the downtown University (see pp112–13).
festivities that celebrate Longfellow Birthday
the joy of First Night, a world- Celebration, (late Feb),
wide institution launched Cambridge. Poetry readings
in Boston. When the frigid and wreath-laying at the
weather arrives in mid-January, illustrious poet’s grave at
Bostonians get geared up First Night ice sculpture Mt. Auburn Cemetery.
for a busy season of Harvard’s Hasty Pudding
performing arts and food city-wide New Year’s Eve Club Parades (variable),
and wine expositions. celebration, now an inter- Cambridge. Outrageous
national phenomenon. Harvard theatrical club
December presents Man and Woman
CraftBoston Holiday January of the Year Awards to
(early to mid-Dec), Boston Center Chinese New Year (late Hollywood celebrities after
for the Arts. Top-quality juried Jan to Mar depending on cross-dressing parades
crafts exhibition for artistic lunar calendar), through Harvard Square.
gift-buying. Chinatown. Celebration
Reenactment of the Boston includes parade, dragon
Tea Party (mid-Dec). Begins dances, and firecrackers. Public Holidays
at Old South Meeting House Boston Wine Expo (late New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
and proceeds to Boston Harbor, Jan–early Feb), World Trade
Martin Luther King Day
where this key historical event Center. Two arduous days of
is replayed. international wine tastings and (3rd Mon, Jan)
First Night (Dec 31). The original cooking demonstrations. Presidents Day (mid-Feb)
Evacuation Day (Mar 17)
(Boston only)
Patriots Day (3rd Mon, Apr)
(Middlesex and Suffolk
counties, including Boston
and Cambridge)
Memorial Day (end May)
Bunker Hill Day
(Jun 17) (Boston only)
Independence Day (Jul 4)
Labor Day (1st Mon, Sep)
Columbus Day (2nd Mon, Oct)
Veterans Day (Nov 11)
Thanksgiving (4th Thu, Nov)
Christmas Day (Dec 25)
Christmas lights on a snowy Boston Common in December
Aerial view of Boston and the waterfront
BOSTON
AREA BY AREA
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Squares
1 Charles Street
2 Louisburg Square
3 Mount Vernon Street
6 Beacon Street
Historic Buildings, Churches,
and Museums See Street Finder map 1
4 Nichols House Museum
5 Hepzibah Swan Houses Science Park
0 meters 250
8 Park Street Church MA 0 yards 250
RTH
0 Boston Athenaeum A R
ET
O AD
q Massachusetts State
RE
ST
House pp52–3
LO
er
W
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w Museum of African
L
v
LES
WEST
Ri
American History
ST
B LO S
RE
END
AR
SOM
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CHARLESBANK
les
CAR
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Char
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t Massachusetts General Hospital
S TA N I F ORD ST
’C O
BLOSSOM
y Museum of Science NE
N
N O R TH GROVE S T
LL W
and Science Park FR U IT ST AY
PARKMAN ST
Parks and Cemeteries
STREET
ANDERSON ST
C A M B R ID GE
7 Boston Common and LO N G F E L
LO W
ST
Charles/
Public Garden pp48–9 BRIDGE M.G.H. CAMBRIDGE STREET
STREET
SOUTH RUSSEL ST
GROVE STREET
G AR D EN
TEM PL E STRE E T
W E S T CE D A R S T
RIDGEWAY LAN
HANCOCK S
JOY ST R EE T
PHILLIPS STREET
S TREET
OAD
BOW DO I N
REVERE STREET
T
STREET
D E R NE
NT R
M YR T LE ST R EE T
B E A C O NPINCKH ILL
NEY STREET
JOY
KME
CED
Restaurants pp142–3 T
VE R N O N S
AR
BAN
ST
1 75 Chestnut MOUNT
S TR E E T
WA L N U
LN
ST T
2 Anna’s Taqueria NON TREE
EM
S
VER EET
RIV
UT
STN
WA
M T. CHE ST R
E ST
T ST
PA
ER
3 Artú
Y
LIM N
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7•15 O
4 Beacon Hill Bistro B EA C
ST
ST
UT
STN
5 Bin 26 Enoteca CHE
ST
ST Park Street
ON
L BYR Frog
6 Cheers B E AV ER P ET
STRE Pond
7 Figs CON
CHA
BE A
8 Grotto BOSTON
RLE
PUBLIC
S
ARL
10 King and I
STR
STR
GARDEN
IN G
11 Lala Rokh
EET
TON
NT
12 No. 9 Park
MO
13 Panificio
STR
TRE
SQUARE
15 The Paramount N ST R E E T
16 Tip Tap Room LSTO
BOY
Arlington
17 Toscano Restaurant
Bronze statue of George Washington in Boston’s Public Garden For keys to symbols see back flap
44 boston area by area
e t
ey Stre
pinCKn
LouiS
Burg
Squa
2 Louisburg Square
The crowning glory re
of the Beacon Hill
district, this square was eet
developed in the 1830s. Str
n on
Today, it is still Boston’s er
t v
most desirable address. un
Mo
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house a congregation
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of Baptists.
Le
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CH
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Suggested route
et
Back
Bay and
South End
0 meters 50
1 . Charles Street
This elegant street is the main shopping area for Beacon Hill. 0 yards 50
beacon hill
and
west end
back bay
and
south end
locator Map
see street Finder map 1
Vernon Proprietors)
chose to build their
t S
own homes.
tre
Sp
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Massachusetts
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State House
St
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Boston Common
3 Mount Vernon
Street
Map 1 B4. Charles/MGH,
Park Street.
6 Beacon Street
Oliver Wendell Holmes and the Boston Brahmins
Map 1 B4. Park Street.
In 1860, Oliver Wendell Holmes (see p32) wrote that Boston’s
wealthy merchant class of the time constituted a Brahmin caste, Beacon Street is lined with
a “harmless, inoffensive, untitled aristocracy” with “their houses urban mansions facing Boston
by Bulfinch, their monopoly on Beacon Street, Common. The 1808 William
their ancestral portraits and Chinese por- Hickling Prescott House at
celains, humanitarianism, Unitarian faith No. 55, designed by Asher
in the march of the mind, Yankee Benjamin, offers tours of rooms
shrewdness, and New England decorated in Federal, Victorian,
exclusiveness.” So keenly did he skewer and Colonial Revival styles.
the social class that the term has The American Meteorological
persisted. In casual usage today, a Society occupies No. 45, which
Brahmin is someone with an old family was built as Harrison Gray Otis’s
name, whose finances derive largely last and finest house, with
from trust funds, and whose politics 11 bedrooms and an elliptical
blend conservatism with noblesse oblige room behind the front parlor
toward those less fortunate. Boston’s where the walls and doors are
Brahmins founded most of the hospitals, curved. The elite Somerset
performing arts bodies and museums of Oliver Wendell Holmes Club stands at Nos. 42–43
the greater metropolitan area. (1809–94) Beacon Street. In the 1920s to
1940s, Irish Catholic mayor
James Michael Curley would
hospitable, Nichols was, among lead election night victory
other things, a self-styled land- marches to the State House,
scape designer who traveled pausing at the Somerset to
extensively around the world taunt the Boston Brahmins
to write about gardens. within. The Parkman House
at No. 33 is now a city-owned
meeting center. It was the
5 Hepzibah Swan home of Dr. George Parkman,
Houses who was murdered by Harvard
13, 15 & 17 Chestnut St. Map 1 B4.
professor and fellow socialite
Park Street. Closed to the public. Dr. John Webster in 1849.
Drawing room of the Bulfinch-designed Boston society was torn apart
Nichols House Museum The only woman who was when Webster was sentenced
ever a member of the Mount to be hanged.
4 Nichols House Vernon Proprietors (see p46),
Museum Mrs. Swan had these houses P William Hickling Prescott House
built by Bulfinch as wedding Open May–Sep: noon–4pm Wed &
55 Mount Vernon St. Map 1 B4. presents for her daughters Sat. & ^ 8
Tel (617) 227-6993. Park Street. in 1806, 1807 and 1814.
Open Apr–Oct: 11am–4pm Tue–Sat;
Some of the most
Nov–Mar: 11am–4pm Thu–Sat. & ^
8 ∑ nicholshousemuseum.org
elegant and distin-
guished houses on
The Nichols House Museum Chestnut Street, they
was designed by Charles are backed by Bulfinch-
Bulfinch in 1804 and offers a designed stables that
rare glimpse into the tradition- face onto Mount
bound lifestyle of Beacon Hill. Vernon Street. The
Modernized in 1830 by the deeds restrict the
addition of a Greek Revival height of the stables
portico, the house is never- to 13 ft (4 m) so that
theless a superb example of her daughters would
Bulfinch’s domestic architec- still have a view over
ture. It also offers an insight Mount Vernon Street.
into the life of a true Beacon In 1863–65, No. 13
Hill character. Rose Standish was home to Dr.
Nichols moved into the house Samuel Gridley Howe,
aged 13 when her father pur- abolitionist and edu-
chased it in 1885. She left it as cational pioneer who,
a museum in her will in 1960. in 1833, founded the
A woman ahead of her time, first school for the Elegant Federal-style houses on Beacon
strong-willed and famously blind in the U.S. Street, overlooking Boston Common
48 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
C
H
A
R
LE
S
ST
R
EE
T
. George
Washington Statue
Cast by Thomas Ball from
bronze, with a solid
granite base, this is one
the finest memorial
statues in Boston. It was
dedicated in 1869.
0 metres 100
Lagoon Bridge
This miniature, ornamental bridge over the Public 0 yards 100
Garden lagoon was designed by William G. Preston in
1869 in a moment of whimsy. The lagoon it “spans”
was constructed in 1861.
BEACON HILL AND WEST END 49
Parkman Bandstand
This bandstand was built in 1912
to memorialize George F. Parkman,
who bequeathed $5 million for the care
of Boston Common and other parks
in the city.
KEY
1 Statue of Edward Everett Hale brood of ducklings, based on 8 Park Street subway
2 The Swan Boats, originally the classic children’s story by 9 Brewer Fountain was pur-
inspired by Wagner’s Lohengrin, Robert McCloskey. chased at the 1867 Paris Expo.
have been a feature of the Public 6 The Soldiers and Sailors 0 Visitors’ Center
Garden lagoon since 1877. Monument, erected in 1877, q Central Burying Ground
3 Statue of Reverend William features prominent Bostonians dates from 1756 and holds the
Ellery Channing from the time of the Civil War. remains of many British and
4 The Ether Monument 7 Blackstone Memorial Tablet American casualties from the
memorializes the first use of recalls the purchase of the Battle of Bunker Hill (see p22).
anaesthesia in 1846. common in 1634 and is cited The portraitist Gilbert Stuart
5 Make Way for Ducklings is as proof that it belongs to is also buried at this graveyard.
the sculpture of a duck and her the people. w The Flagstaff
50 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
. House of Representatives
This elegant oval chamber was built for the
House of Representatives in 1895. The Sacred
Cod, which now hangs over the gallery, came
to the State House when it first opened in
1798, and it has since hung over any place
where the representatives have met.
KEY
Hall of Flags
Flags carried into battle by
ViSitorS’ CHeCkliSt
regiments from the state of
Practical Information
Massachusetts are housed
Beacon Hill. Map 1 C4.
here. They are displayed
tel (617) 7273676.
beneath a stainedglass
∑ sec.state.ma.us/trs
skylight depicting seals
open 10am–3:30pm Mon–Fri
of the original 13 colonies.
(reservations recommended).
78
Transport
Park Street.
. Nurses Hall
This marble hall is lined with murals
depicting critical events leading up
to the American Revolution. The
name derives from the statue
of an army nurse here, erected
to honor all the nurses who
took part in the Civil War.
Entrance
Senate Chamber
Doric Hall Prior to 1895, this was the meeting
George Washington is chamber of the House of
among the historical Representatives. Situated directly
figures represented here. beneath the State House’s magnifi
The center doors of the hall cent dome, the chamber features a
are only ever opened for beautiful sunburst ceiling, also
a state governor at the designed by Charles Bulfinch.
end of his term or for a
visiting head of state.
54 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
in the muted
Williamsburg Colonial
style, subsequent
art history detective
work revealed that
Bostonians had much
more flamboyant taste
than, for example, the
wealthy Virginians.
Thus, the house has
been restored with
touches typical of such
upper-class aspirations.
The wallpaper in the
main entrance has a
border of scenes from
Pompeii and scores of
lithographs showing
views of European
cities. The colors
Flamboyantly decorated dining room of the Otis House Museum throughout the rest
of the house are bright,
e Otis House boarding house. Historic New and gilt detail flashes from
Museum England saved the building moldings and furniture.
in 1916 and established its Inquire about the Beacon
141 Cambridge St. Map 1 C3. Tel (617)
headquarters here. A gallery Hill and Haymarket walking
994-5820. Charles/MGH, Govern-
in the house depicts the time tours that depart from Otis
ment Center. Open 11am–4:30pm
when the building was a House Museum.
Wed–Sun (Dec–Feb: Fri–Sun). & ^
8 ∑ historicnewengland.org boarding house in the 1950s.
Visitors who tour the Otis
Designed by Charles Bulfinch house, now restored to the r Old West Church
for Harrison Gray Otis, way it looked in around 1800,
131 Cambridge St. Map 1 C3. Tel (617)
co-developer of Beacon Hill are often surprised by the 227-5088. Charles/ MGH, Bowdoin.
(see pp44–5) and Boston’s third bright, even gaudy, style of Open for Sunday worship. 5 11am
mayor, this 1796 town mansion decoration. Although the Sun. ^ 7 ∑ oldwestchurch.org
was built to serve the needs of rooms were initially decorated
a young man on the way up A wood-frame church built
in Federal Boston. Descended on this site in 1737 was used
from both British colonial as a barracks for British soldiers
administrators and Boston during the occupation of
revolutionary patriots, Otis Boston (see pp22–3) in the
took a practical view of local period just prior to the
government that paved the American Revolution. The
way for Boston’s development British later razed the original
as a powerhouse of international church in 1775, since they
trade and finance. Having suspected revolutionary
already made a fortune in the sympathizers of using the
land development of Beacon steeple to signal Continental
Hill, Otis commissioned this Army troops across the Charles
home as a showpiece, where River. Many of the church’s
he could entertain. It was the timbers were used to construct
first of three homes Bulfinch the African Meeting House (see
designed for him. p51). Asher Benjamin (see p34),
After Otis moved out, the a protégé of Charles Bulfinch,
house fell on hard times as designed the current red-brick
the West End neighborhood structure, erected in 1806.
around it absorbed successive The swag-ornamented clocks
waves of immigration, and on the sides of the tower are
tenements replaced single distinctive landmarks, while
family homes. By the 1830s inside there is a superb Fisk
the Otis house was serving as tracker-action pipe organ.
a ladies’ Turkish bath and later This organ is often played
became a patent medicine Red-brick façade of Asher Benjamin’s in classical organ concerts
shop before ending up as a Old West Church and in recordings.
BEACON HILL AND WEST END 55
Sights at a Glance
Restaurants pp143–4
Historic Streets and Squares
1 Anthem
0 Blackstone Block 2 The Black Rose
q Boston Public Market 3 Boloco
and Greenway 4 Bond Restaurant and Lounge
t Post Office Square 5 Chacarero
Historic Buildings 6 Durgin Park
and Churches 7 The Kinsale
North 8 Mooo...
1 Omni Parker House Station
2 King’s Chapel ET 9 The Oceanaire Seafood Room
RE
and Burying ST 10 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse
LO
AY 11 Sakura-Bana
W
Ground
C
EL
EW
FR
12 Sam LaGrassa’s
L
AU
ND
ST
A
PO
13 Silvertone
L
ST
RT
L A ST R E
RE
ET
SE 14 Society on High
NC ET
LA
ER T
AS
ST
ND
ME AV EE
15 Union Oyster House
TE
House TR STR
RE
RRI
ET
ST
MA
ET
C
RE
House pp62–3
BL
7 Center Plaza
A
Haymarket
C
KS
TO
S
W EET
HA Y
9 Government Center UR
KE
NE
ST W
DB
R
R K
w Faneuil Hall Bowdoin E E T I N S SU
CO
ST
W
e Quincy Market
RE
NE
NG
UNI
C A MB R I D G E
ET
ST
ET
r Custom House
ON
RES
RE
STREET
y Verizon Building
ST
STREE
CLINTON ST
ST
S
C
H
RT
AM
CITY HALL NO
AT
AT
BR
PEM PLAZA
LA
I DG
LA
STREE
BE
RTON
Government
BOWDOIN
NTI
NTI
SOMERSET
T REET
Center C H AT H A M S
C A
CO State
EET
T
URT
STR
STR
SQU
STREE
T S TATE
VENU
ARE
AV E N U
EE
N
F I NANCIAL D I A
I
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CO N S T
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BEA DI S T RIC T R E E T ST
R EET
SCH
E
OOL ST B
STR RO
ST
BO EET W AT E R ST BA
TTE AD
SW RY ST
ON
O K
PE
ET
AR
BR
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O
OM
AR
LI
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VE
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FIE
CH
0 yards 300 ST
HI
LD
DEVONSHIRE
EET
ST
AS
STR
ST
ST
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ST
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FEDERA
IN
ET
RE
EET
H
KL G
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AN
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HI
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EN
STREET
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See Street Finder maps 1 & 2 EE LA
T AT
The iconic Old State House in Boston’s Financial District For keys to symbols see back flap
58 boston area by area
0 metres 50
50
3 Old City Hall 0 yards
This building served
as Boston’s City Hall from 1865
to 1969. Today it is converted
into a steak house.
old boston and the financial district 59
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 1 & 2
New England
Aquarium
et
literary heritage as a
g
publishing company.
w
d e v O n S H i r e
Mi
LK
St
re
et
S t r e e t
arCH Street
5 . Old South
Meeting House
Built in 1729, this church later
became a focal point for
protest during the run-up to
the American Revolution.
Today, visitors can hear
reenactments of the debates
that once raged here.
Key
Suggested route
Downtown Crossing
60 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
1 Omni Parker
House
60 School St. Map 1 C4.
Tel (617) 227-8600. Park Street,
State, Government Center.
∑ omnihotels.com
West Façade
A Latin inscription, relating
to the first Massachusetts
Bay colony, runs around
the outside of this crest. The
relief in the center depicts a
local Native American.
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Site of the Boston Massacre
A brass and stone marker below the balcony Practical Information
on the eastern façade of the Old State Washington & State Sts.
House indicates the site of the Boston Map 2 D4.
Massacre (see pp22–3). After the Boston Tel (617) 720-1713.
Tea Party (see p77), this was one of the ∑ bostonhistory.org
most inflammatory events leading up Open 9am–5pm daily (to 6pm
to the American Revolution. On March 5, late May–early Sep). Closed Jan 1,
1770, an unruly mob of colonists taunted Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & ^ 8
Marker on the site of British guardsmen with insults, rocks, and 7=
the Boston Massacre snowballs. The soldiers opened fire, killing
Transport
five colonists. A number of articles relating
State.
to the Boston Massacre are exhibited inside the Old State House,
including a musket found near the site and a coroner’s report
detailing the incident.
. East Façade
This façade has seen many
changes. An earlier clock from the
1820s was removed in 1957 and
replaced with an 18th-century
replica of the sundial that once
hung here. The clock has now
been reinstated.
Council Chamber
Once the chambers for
the royal governors, and
from 1780 chambers for the first
governor of Massachusetts (John Hancock),
this room has seen many key events. Among
them were numerous impassioned speeches
made by Boston patriots.
64 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
NORTH END
PLAYGROUND
CI A L
Charlestown ER ST
Bridge M CH
AR RE
ET
M
TE
R
O
KEANY ST
C
RE
ST
HU
SQUARE ET CO Battery
LL
M Wharf
S N O WHILL
PR
RE
M
ST
IN
ET
ER
CE
SH
WA S H I N G T O N S T
EM
EA
CIA
V ER ST
ST
FE
SA L
Lincoln
RE
ST
T Wharf Restaurants pp144–5
E
T
N O R T H I LE STO HANO
V ER
1 Antico Forno
STRE E T
NO
T HATC H E R S T
E N D SNT BEN N ST AV E.
Union
HA
C LA
RE NE
E T TT RK Wharf 2 Barking Crab
ENDICOTT ST
MARGIN ST
ST
LYN N ST
PR
IN
3 Bricco
S T R E ET
CE
ST FLE Sargents
CT.
ET
PAR ST
Wharf 4 Carmen
DEN
M EN EASTERN
T AVE.
ER 5 Dino’s Café
GAR
STILLMAN ST ST
ST
RT
EET
ST
NO 6 Ernesto’s Pizzeria
TR
LEM
T I C AVENUE
Lewis
R
L S
7 Giacomo’s Ristorante
VE
Wharf
RI
ET
SA
CIA
CH
NO
RE
Haymarket
ER
ST
HA
ON
MM
D
ST
RE 9 La Famiglia Giorgio
CO
ET
ON
LA
Commercial 10 Legal Harborside
N
LT
AT Wharf
FU
11 Maurizio’s Ristorante
Sights at a Glance CHRISTOPHER Italiano
COLUMBUS PARK
Historic Sites and Churches 12 Menton
WAT E RF RONT 13 Meritage
1 Copp’s Hill Burying Ground
AT
Long Wharf
14 Neptune Oyster
LA
Aquarium
2 Clough House
NTI
0 Rowes Wharf
q Institute of Contemporary Art
w Boston Tea Party Ships
E
U Northern Ave
EN Bridge
& Museum AV
IC
T
e Children’s Museum L AN
AT
T IC NO
Evelyn RT
AN
CO
L Moakley Bridge HE
AT SE RN
NG
AP AV
RE
OR EN
SS
T UE
South Station BO
ST
ST
UL
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700 yards
TH
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OR
PE
SU AR
PL
SW
M D
M St Bridge
SL
N
RN
ER
SO
0 meters 450
FA
OM
Summer
ST
R E St Bridge
TH
0 yards 450
ET
The redeveloped Rowes Wharf with the iconic archway For keys to symbols see back flap
70 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
SH
EA
FE
ST
RE
ET
N
O
R
ET
TH
1 Copp’s Hill Burying Ground
RE
B
During the American Revolution, EN
ST
PR
IN
CE
ST
3 . Old North Church RE
Built in 1723 and famous for the ET
part it played in Paul Revere’s
midnight ride (see p23), this is
Boston’s oldest religious
building. On festive occasions,
the North End still rings with
the sound of its bells.
Key
Suggested route
Government
Center
0 meters 50
0 yards 50
N O R T H E N D A N D T H E WAT E R F R O N T 71
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 2
T
IL
E
S
T
O
N
S
T
R
E
E
T
ST
R CLA
EE RK
T STR
EET
FL The waterfront
H
EE
T
ST
RE
ET
ET
RE
ST
N
O
O
M
T
UR
CO
2 Clough House
21 Unity St. Map 2 E2. Tel (617) 523-
6676. Haymarket, Aquarium.
Open Jun–Oct: 11am–5:30pm daily
(call for winter hours).
Christ Episcopal Church is the official name of this, Boston’s Practical Information
oldest surviving religious edifice, which dates from 1723. 193 Salem St.
Map 2 E2.
It was built of brick in the Georgian style similar to that Tel (617) 523-6676.
of St. Andrew’s-by-the-Wardrobe in Blackfriars, ∑ oldnorth.com
London, designed by Sir Christopher Open Jan, Feb: 10am–4pm Tue–
Wren. The church was made famous Sun; Mar–May: 9am–5pm daily
Jun–Oct: to 6pm; Nov–Mar:
on April 18, 1775, when sexton 10am–5pm daily. Closed Jan,
Robert Newman, aiding Paul Revere Feb: Mon. 5 9 & 11am. ^ 7
(see p23), hung a pair of signal & 8 call for details.
lanterns in the belfry. These were to Transport
warn the patriots in Charlestown of Haymarket, Aquarium,
the westward departure of British North Station.
troops, on their way to engage
the revolutionaries.
Tower
The tower of the Old North
Church contains the first set
of church bells in North
America, cast in 1745.
. Box Pews
The unusual, high-sided box pews in the
church were designed to enclose footwarmers,
which were filled with hot coals or bricks
during wintry weather.
Chandeliers
The distinctive chandeliers
were brought from England
in January 1724 for the first
Christmas season.
Entrance
q Institute of
Contemporary Art
25 Harbor Shore Drive. Map 2 F5.
Tel (617) 4783100. Courthouse.
Open 10am–5pm Tue, Wed, Sat, Sun,
10am–9pm Thu, Fri. & 7
∑ icaboston.org
Rowes Wharf development, typical of Boston’s waterfront regeneration w Boston Tea Party
Ships & Museum
8 Long Wharf 9 New England
306 Congress St. Map 2 E5.
Atlantic Avenue. Map 2 E3. Aquarium Tel (617) 3381773. South Station.
Aquarium. & ∑ bostonteapartyship.com
See pp78–9.
The nation’s oldest continuously Griffin’s Wharf, where the
operated wharf was built in Boston Tea Party took place
1710 to accommodate the 0 Rowes Wharf on December 16, 1773 (see
boom in early maritime com Atlantic Avenue. Map 2 E4.
p77), was buried beneath
merce. The following century Aquarium. landfill many years ago.
was to be Boston’s international Today, visitors can enjoy
maritime heyday; it was the Completed in 1987, this fine interactive exhibits, including
busiest port in North America example of waterfront revitali actors in period clothing, a
and one of the most important zation replaced the twopart traditional tea room, and
in the colonies, surpassed India wharf dating from the Tavern Night shows. Floating
only by London and Bristol in 1760s. Built of Bostonian in Fort Point Channel are
the amount of cargo that it red brick and designed by perfect replicas of the Beaver
handled. Once extending 2,000 Skidmore, Owings & Merrill, and Dartmouth, two of the
ft (610 m) into Boston harbor, the complex houses the luxury three ships that took part
and lined with shops and Boston Harbor Hotel (see p135), in the original Boston Tea
warehouses, Long Wharf condominiums, offices, and a Party, built by master builder
provided secure mooring for marina. A large archway links Leon Poindexter. With its
the largest ships of the time. the city to the harbor. wraparound movie screen,
Today, Long Wharf is used
by boat services to Province
town, Charlestown Navy Yard,
and the Harbor Islands. The
attractive esplanade at the end
also offers good views across
the city’s waterfront. Running
along the waterfront, Harbor
Walk connects Long Wharf
with other adjacent wharves,
such as Union, Lewis, and
Commercial wharves. Dating
from the early 1800s, most
are now converted to fashion
able harborside apartments
and condominiums. View down Long Wharf toward the waterfront and Custom House
N O R T H E N D A N D T H E WAT E R F R O N T 77
. Whale Watch
This marine safari from Boston to
Stellwagen Bank lets city visitors
see the largest mammals on earth.
Naturalists lead viewing of
humpback, finback, and
minke whales.
Main entrance
Harbor Seals
Harbor seals cavort in a glass-sided outdoor
tank that is always open for free viewing.
N O R T H E N D A N D T H E WAT E R F R O N T 79
IMAX® Theatre
KEY
Tropical Gallery
1 Ticket booth
This exhibit provides an account of the
many types of environment manifested
2 Harbor View Café in reefs: starting with a darkened exhibit
3 Gift Shop of deep-water reef fishes and ending
with a brightly lit, Pacific coral reef.
BOSTON AREA BY AREA 81
W
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KE
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Traditional decorative gate at the entrance of Chinatown For keys to symbols see back flap
82 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
W
eS
t
St
re
et
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 1 & 2
Old South
Meeting
House
W
in
te
r
St
re
et 2 Downtown Crossing
This intersection buzzes with
activity, but, despite being the site
of Macy’s department store, the
area can seem a little tawdry.
Nevertheless, it is a great place
to soak up the atmosphere
t
S
e
u of Downtown Boston.
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Macy’s is one of
the most famous
stores in the U.S. –
the most well-
known store is
in New York.
La
fa
ye Lafayette
tt
e Center Washington Street
The main street of this district, Washington Street
Boston Tea Party Ship has many stores. New developments and theater
restorations make it increasingly upscale.
84 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
Liberty Tree
At the corner of Washington Street and Boylston Street, a low
relief of a tree marks the exact site of the famous Liberty Tree,
Carts of second-hand books outside the where the Sons of Liberty would meet during the prelude to the
Brattle Book Shop American Revolution. The tree’s fame first became widespread when
it became a focal point for opposition to the Stamp Act (see p22).
4 Brattle Book The British stamp master, Andrew Oliver, was hung in effigy from
Shop its branches, an incident that caused people from all over the region
to gather around it. The tree was also a meeting place in the days
9 West St. Map 4 E1. Tel (617) 542- running up to the Boston Tea Party (see p77). In August 1775, during
0210. Park Street, Downtown the early part of the Revolution when Boston was still occupied
Crossing. Open 9am–5:30pm Mon– by the British, a mob of Redcoats vented their anger on the tree
Sat. 7 ∑ brattlebookshop.com and chopped it down.
Founded in 1825 and located
at various sites around Boston
since, this bibliophiles’ treasure
house is packed with more
than 250,000 used, rare, and
out-of-print books. Proprietor
Kenneth Gloss also stocks
back issues of periodicals, Life,
Look, and Collier’s magazines
among them, along with
antiquarian ephemera such
as maps, prints, postcards,
greeting cards, and auto-
graphed manuscripts. In front
of and alongside the three-
story building, passersby
browse through bins and
carts full of discounted
bargain books priced in Bostonians protest the Stamp Act of 1765, around the Liberty Tree
the range of $1 to $5.
86 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
6 Massachusetts
State Transportation
Building
8–10 Park Plaza, Stuart & Charles Sts.
Map 4 E2. Boylston. Atrium
restaurants: Open 11am–8pm Mon–
Fri, noon–6pm Sat. 7
The main feature of the
Massachusetts State
Transportation Building,
constructed in 1983, is its }
seven-story-high, skylit City
Place atrium, which is directly
accessible to the public.
Covering most of a sizeable city
block, this red-brick and glass
cantilevered building has won
several prestigious design
awards. It incorporates offices
and public-service facilities,
maintained by the state’s
transportation administrators,
around a central mall of wide- The City Place atrium in the Massachusetts State Transportation Building
ranging shops and restaurants.
Lunchtime concerts, pop interior, on the other hand, 8 Chinatown
or light-classical music, are is an impressively opulent Bounded by Kingston, Kneeland,
frequently scheduled in the showpiece by H.B. Pennell: his Washington & Essex Sts.
central mall, while gallery Rococo lobby boasts gilded Map 4 E2. Chinatown.
showings are often held on the trim, chandeliers, and lofty
upper levels overlooking the arched ceilings. The 1,658- Although smaller than those
atrium. Other facilities in the seat auditorium is decorated in San Fransisco and New York,
building include a bank, with allegorical figures, this area remains one of the
newsstand, and several frescoes, and friezes. largest Chinatowns in the U.S.
fast-food eateries. The theater opened on It covers blocks of filled land
December 20, 1900 with a that had been the South Cove
suitably extravagant perfor- tidal backwater until the early
mance of the melodrama 19th century. Pagoda-topped
Ben Hur, featuring a cast of telephone booths, as well as a
350 and an on-stage chariot three-story gateway guarded
race involving a dozen by four marble lions, set the
horses pulling Roman neighborhood’s Asian tone.
chariots on treadmills. The first 200 Chinese to settle
It was also the venue in New England came by ship
for productions by from San Francisco in 1870.
Gilt ornamentation from the lavishly decorated directors such as Mostly unskilled, they were
interior of the Colonial Theatre Irving Berlin, Sigmund recruited to break a labor
Romberg, and Rodgers strike at a shoe factory in
7 Colonial Theatre and Hammerstein, and is where Massachusetts, but were jobless
106 Boylston St. Map 4 E2.
Ziegfeld premiered his Follies by 1874. At this time, some
Tel (617) 426-9366. Boylston. (see p89). The theater is now drifted to Boston, at first
Open phone to check. 7 owned by Emerson College. pitching their tents on Oliver
∑ artsemerson.org
w Wang Theatre
270 Tremont St. Map 4 E2. Tel (617)
482-9393. Boylston, New England
Medical Center. Open phone for
details. 7 ∑ citicenter.org
Athena
Cupids
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Squares q Berklee Performance Center Restaurants pp146–8
1 The Esplanade w Prudential Center 1 B&G Oysters
4 Commonwealth Avenue e Christian Science Center 2 Brasserie Jo
5 Newbury Street t Boston Center for the Arts 3 Coppa
7 Copley Square 4 Deuxave
8 Boylston Street 5 L’Espalier
r Copley Place 6 Grill 23
y Union Park 7 Mike’s City Diner
8 Oishii
Historic Buildings, Churches,
9 Orinoco
and Museums
10 Parish Café
2 Gibson House Museum 11 Post 390
3 First Baptist Church 12 Scoozi
6 Trinity Church pp96–7 13 Sonsie
9 Boston Public Library 14 Sorellina
0 John Hancock Tower 15 Stephanie’s on Newbury
er
Riv THE E 16 Tapeo
ESPLANADE
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Grand arches and murals adorn the interior of Boston Public Library For keys to symbols see back flap
92 boston area by area
7 Copley Square
This square was a marsh until
1870. It took on its present
form only in the late 20th
century as buildings around
ue
its edges were completed. A en
av
farmers’ market, concerts, and h
Lt
folk-dancing feature regularly. ea
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mm
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8 Boylston Street
mo
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9 . Boston
Public Library
One of the first free
public libraries in the
world, this building
was designed by
Charles McKim. Inside
are murals by John South
Singer Sargent. End
b a c k b ay a n d s o u t h e n d 93
Beacon Hill
Locator Map
ue See Street Finder map 3
eN
Av
T h
AL
we
M oN
M
Co
CL
Ar
eN
eT
re
ST
5 . Newbury Street
High fashion outlets,
galleries, and restaurants
characterize this street –
Boston’s most fashionable,
and a great place for
people-watching.
Key
Suggested route
0 metres 50
6 . Trinity Church
Acknowledged as Henry Hobson 0 yards 50
Richardson’s Romanesque Revival
masterpiece, this is one of the most
important churches in the U.S.
94 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
1 The Esplanade
Map 1 A4. Charles/MGH.
Open 24 hrs daily. 7
The trumpeting angels at the on the central mall of the of the city’s most au
corners of the tower gave the avenue encounter a courant restaurants.
building its nickname, “Church number of historic Churches provide
of the Holy Bean Blowers.” figures in the form of vestiges of a more
Four years after the church bronze statues. Some decorous era. The
was completed, the Unitarian have only tangential Church of the
congregation dissolved because relationships to the Covenant at No. 67
it was unable to bear the city, like Alexander Newbury contains
expense of the building. The Hamilton, the first the world’s largest
church stood vacant until secretary of the U.S. collection of Louis
1881, when the First Baptist Treasury. The end Comfort Tiffany
congregation from the of the mall features stained-glass
South End took it over. an heroic bronze of windows and an
Leif Erikson, erected elaborate Tiffany
as a historically lantern. A choir
4 Commonwealth unsupported flight and musicians
Avenue of fancy that the William Garrison statue on perform sacred
Norse explorer Commonwealth Avenue music each Sunday
Map 3 B2. Arlington, Copley,
landed at Boston. at Emmanuel
Hynes Convention Center/ICA.
The patrician statue of abolitionist Church on the corner of
Back Bay was Boston’s first fully William Garrison is said to Newbury and Berkeley Streets.
planned neighborhood, and capture exactly the man’s air of Most of Newbury Street was
architect Arthur Gilman made moral superiority. The best-loved constructed as town house
Commonwealth Avenue, memorial depicts sailor and residences, but the desirability
modeled on the elegant bou- historian Samuel Eliot Morison of these spaces for retail oper-
levards of Paris, the centerpiece dangling his feet from a rock. ations has pushed residents
of the design. At 200 ft (61 m) to the upper floors, while
wide, with a 10 ft (3 m) setback ground and underground
from the sidewalks to encour- 5 Newbury Street levels are devoted to chic
age small gardens in front of Map 3 C2. Arlington, Copley,
boutiques and eateries.
the buildings, Commonwealth Hynes Convention Center/ICA. Fashionable sidewalk dining
became an arena for America’s gives great buzz to enduring
leading domestic architects Newbury Street is a Boston classic bistro spots, such as
in the second half of the 19th synonym for “stylish.” The Taj Stephanie’s on Newbury
century. A walk from the Boston, formerly the Ritz- and Sonsie (see p147).
Public Garden to Massachusetts Carlton Hotel, at Arlington
Avenue is like flicking through Street sets an elegant tone for R Church of the Covenant
a catalog of architectural styles. the street that continues with 67 Newbury St. Tel (617) 266-7480.
Few of the grand buildings a mix of prestigious and often Open 10:30am Sun for church
on either side of the avenue are well-hidden art galleries, service. ^ 7 8 9
open to the public, but strollers stylish boutiques, and some ∑ cotcboston.org
Stylish Newbury Street, with its elegant shops, galleries, and restaurants, is the epitome of Boston style
96 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
6 Trinity Church
Routinely voted one of America’s finest churches, this
masterpiece by Henry Hobson Richardson dates from 1877.
Trinity Church was founded in 1733 near Downtown Crossing,
but the congregation moved the church to this site in 1871.
The church is a granite and sandstone Romanesque structure
standing on wooden piles driven through mud into bedrock,
surmounted with granite pyramids. John LaFarge designed
the interior, while some of the windows are designed by
Edward Burne-Jones and executed by William Morris.
KEY
Parish
House
David’s Charge
to Solomon
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Located in the baptistry,
Practical Information
to the right of the chancel,
Copley Sq. Map 3 C2.
this beautiful window
Tel (617) 536-0944.
is also the result of a
∑ trinitychurchboston.org
partnership between
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,
Edward Burne-Jones
1–5pm Sun. 5 7:45am, 9am,
and William Morris.
11:15am, 6pm Sun. Concerts:
The story shown is one
Sep–Jun: 12:15pm Fri. &
of the few in the church
8 call for tour times. 7
from the Old Testament.
Transport
Copley.
. West Portico
Richardson disliked the original flat façade of
Trinity Church, and so modeled the deeply
sculpted west portico after St. Trophime in
Arles, France. It was added after his death.
Phillips Brooks
Born in Boston in 1835 and
educated at Harvard, Brooks
was a towering charismatic
figure. Rector of Trinity
Church from 1869, he gained
a reputation for powerful
sermons. From 1872 Brooks
worked closely with Henry
Hobson Richardson on the
Main design of the new Trinity
entrance Church – at least five sculpted
likenesses of him can be seen
in and around the building.
98 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
0 John Hancock
Tower
200 Clarendon St. Map 3 C2.
Copley. Closed to the public.
w Prudential Center
800 Boylston St. Map 3 B3. Tel (617)
859-0648. Prudential, Hynes
Convention Center/ICA. Skywalk:
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–10pm daily;
Nov–Feb: 10am–8pm daily. Closed
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 9
r Copley Place
Huntington Ave & Dartmouth St.
Map 3 C3. Tel (617) 262-6600. Back
Bay/South End, Copley. Open 10am–
8pm Mon–Sat, noon–6pm Sun. 7
FARTHER AFIELD
The late 19th and 20th centuries saw Boston “People’s Democratic Republic of Cambridge,”
expand out of the central colonial and a reference to the politics of Harvard and the
Victorian city into the surrounding area. The Massachusetts Institute of Technology, its
old marshlands of the Fenway now house two major colleges. Harvard Square is a lively
two of Boston’s most important art museums, area of bookstores, cafés, and street enter-
the Museum of Fine Arts and the Isabella tainers. Charlestown is the site of the Bunker
Stewart Gardner Museum. Southeast of the Hill Monument and the Charlestown Navy
city center, Columbia Point was developed Yard, where the U.S.’s most famous warship,
in the mid-20th century and is home to the the U.S.S. Constitution, is moored. Farther
John F. Kennedy Library and Museum. West northwest lie historic Concord and Lexington,
of central Boston, across the Charles River, where the first major battles of the
lies Cambridge, sometimes referred to as the Revolutionary War took place in 1775.
Sights at a Glance
Towns 5 Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum
7 Cambridge 6 Museum of Fine Arts,
8 Charlestown Boston pp106–9
9 Concord Gardens and Zoos
0 Lexington
2 Franklin Park Zoo
Museums and Historic Sites 3 Arnold Arboretum
1 John F. Kennedy Library
Key
and Museum
4 John F. Kennedy National Main sightseeing area
Historic Site Urban area
Highway
Major road
0 kilometers 4 Minor road
0 miles 2 Railroad
Lynn
3 38 Saugus
Concord
95 Lexington 1
Winchester
1A
2
93
Malden
Broad
Arlington Sound
Revere
16
1
Chelsea
95
Belmont Somerville 1A
28
Watertown Winthrop
Logan
Cambridge International
20
Waltham Boston
90
90 Newton
9
203 93
9 28
Natick Brookline
Wellesley
Roxbury
Quincy
Bay
Needham 95
Dedham 93
set
on
p
28
Quincy
Ne
138 Milton
The Harvard University campus in Cambridge For keys to symbols see back flap
104 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
3 Arnold Arboretum
125 Arborway, Jamaica Plain. Tel (617)
5241718. Forest Hills. @ 39.
Open sunrise–sunset daily. Visitors
Center: Open 10am–5pm Thu–Tue.
Closed public hols. 7 8
∑ arboretum.harvard.edu
6Museum of Fine
Arts, Boston
The largest art museum in New England and one
of the largest in the United States, its collection
includes around 450,000 items, ranging from Egyptian
artifacts to paintings by John Singer Sargent. The American Silver
original 1909 Beaux Arts-style MFA building was The revolutionary Paul Revere
augmented in 1981 by the addition of the Linde Family (see p23) was also a noted
silversmith and produced
wing, designed by I.M. Pei. The $500 million Art of many beautiful objects,
the Americas wing, designed by architect Norman such as this ornate teapot.
Foster, has given new life to the museum housing
53 galleries and displaying over 5,000 works of art.
Fenway
Entrance
. Egyptian Mummies
Among the museum’s
Egyptian and Nubian art
is this tomb group of Calderwood
Nes-mut-aat-neru Courtyard
(767–656 BC) of Thebes.
Shapiro
Courtyard
Huntington
Entrance
. Copley Portraits
John Singleton Copley
(1738–1815) painted the
celebrities of his day, hence
this portrait of a dandyish Lower
John Hancock (see p23). Ground
FA R T H E R A F I E L D 107
Head of Aphrodite
This rare example of Ancient
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Greek sculpture dates from
Practical Information
about 330–300 BC.
Avenue of the Arts,
465 Huntington Ave.
Level 3 Tel (617) 267-9300.
∑ mfa.org
Open 10am–10pm Wed–Fri,
10am–5pm Sat–Tue.
Closed most public hols. & 7
8 9 Lectures, concerts, and
films: 0 - =
Transport
MFA.
Sargent Murals
John Singer Sargent spent the last years of
his life creating artwork for the MFA.
Originally commissioned to produce three
paintings, Sargent instead constructed these
elaborate murals, which were unveiled in
Level 2 1921 and can still be seen today. He went
on to create the works of art in the adjacent
colonnade up until his death in 1925.
Key
Art of Europe
Contemporary Art
Art of Asia, Oceania, and Africa
Art of the Ancient World
Level 1 Art of the Americas
Special/Temporary exhibitions
Non-exhibition space
Gallery Guide
The Linde Family wing (west
side) displays Contemporary
art and houses a restaurant
and the museum store. Eur
opean, Classical, Far Eastern,
and Egyptian art and artifacts
occupy the original MFA build . Impressionist Paintings
ing. Arts from North, Central, Boston collectors were among
and South America are displayed the first to appreciate French
over four levels of the Art of Impressionism. Dance at
the Americas wing. Works on Bougival (1883) by Renoir is
display are subject to change. typical of the MFA collection.
108 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
7 Cambridge
Part of the greater Boston metropolitan area, Cambridge is,
nonetheless, a city in its own right, and has the mood and feel
of such. Principally a college town, it is dominated by Harvard
University and other college campuses. It also boasts a
number of important historic sights, such as Christ Church
and Cambridge Common, which have associations back to
the American Revolution. Harvard Square is the area’s main
entertainment and shopping district.
Harvard University
Environs
STREET
T
STREE EVERE TT STREE T
1 Cambridge Common CO NCY Natural
S E T T S AV E N U E
NC AU
FR A N
OR CH History
GA
2 Christ Church D
AV Museum
RD
BE
C IS AV
ET RK EN
TRE
EN
RD
UE
3 Harvard Square
EL
IE S EY ARSENAL
Longfellow
OXFO
A IG
STR
D IV IN
CR ST SQUARE
R Harvard
EN U E
National
4 Harvard University ST
EET
HA USE
EE
HO
IT Y AV
ST Peabody
T
BR IN TER
Museums (see AT G WA Cambridge
STR EET
T Museum ET
LE Common STRE
S
LAND
STR
AV
pp114–15) EET
ET
K IR K
EET
N ST GA
G ST RE
F O ST E M A SO RD Memorial
TR
RS
5 Harvard Yard TR EN
Flagstaff
DS
EET Hall
SPA RKS
AN
Y ST
R ID
BR
Christ
6 Longfellow National MOU NT AUBU RN RD ST R EE G E
AT
STREE T IA T Church T
PEA
LL EE BR
T
HI TR
LE
OA
E ET
DW
TR
Harvard Yard AY
HS
Logan
7 Radcliffe Institute for MA Harvard Art International
AS
M ELIOT HARVARD
SQUARE SSA Museums Airport
Advanced Study SQUARE
EET
E CH 12 km (7 miles)
M U
STR
E L IO
HA
EET
O
SE
ST
MO R VA
TS
Cha
RI
RD
TT
STR
UN
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ST
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TA STR
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ED
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J.F.
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Kennedy
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ET
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NP
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Anderson T S
Bridge T MIT
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EL John W. Weeks
D
RO Footbridge
AD
0 yards 400
Harvard Yard
In 1636 boston’s well-educated Puritan leaders founded
a college in newtowne. two years later cleric John
Harvard died and bequeathed half his estate and all Holden Chapel
his books to the fledgling college. the colony’s leaders Built in 1742, the chapel was the
bestowed his name on the school and rechristened scene of revolutionary speeches and
the surrounding community Cambridge after the was later used as a demonstration
hall for human dissections.
english city where they had been educated. the oldest
university in the U.s., Harvard is now one of the world’s
most prestigious centers of learning. the university
has expanded to encompass more than 400 buildings,
but Harvard yard is still at its heart.
Harvard University
Information Center
. Widener Library
This library memorializes Harry
Elkins Widener who died on
the Titanic in 1912. With more
than 3 million volumes, it is the
third largest library in the U.S.
cambridge 113
Sever Hall
One of the most distinctive
of Harvard’s Halls, this
Romanesque style-building
was designed by Henry
Hobson Richardson (see p34).
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
keY
Situated on the north bank of the Charles River, directly opposite Practical Information
Community College.
the North End, Charlestown exudes history. The site of the
( Wed.
infamous Battle of Bunker Hill, when American troops suffered
Transport
huge losses in their fight for independence, today the district @ 93. g from Long Wharf.
forms a major part of Boston’s Freedom Trail (see pp126–9).
P U.S.S. Constitution
P John Harvard Mall Charlestown Navy Yard. Tel (617) 242-
Ten families founded 5671. Open mid-Apr–Oct: 2:30–6pm
Charlestown in 1629, a year Tue–Sun (from 10am Sat & Sun);
before the rest of Boston was Nov–mid-Apr: 2:30–4pm Thu–Sun
settled. They built their homes (from 10am Sat & Sun). 7 8
∑ navy.mil/local/constitution
and a palisaded fort on Town
Hill, a spot now marked by John The oldest commissioned war-
Harvard Mall. A small monument ship afloat, the U.S.S. Constitution
within the enclosed park pays saw action in the Mediterranean
homage to John Harvard (see protecting American shipping
p112), the young cleric who from the Barbary pirates. In the
ministered to the settlers. War of 1812, she won fame and
When John Winthrop arrived her nickname of “Old Ironsides”
with three shiploads of Puritan when cannonballs bounced off
refugees in 1630 (see p20), they her in a battle with the British
settled nearby in the marshes ship Guerriere. In the course of
at the base of Town Hill, her active service, she won
Granite obelisk of the Bunker Hill now City Square. 42 battles, lost none,
Monument, erected in 1843 captured 20 vessels, and
P Charlestown was never boarded by an
P Bunker Hill Monument Navy Yard enemy. She underwent
Monument Square. Tel (617) 242- Tel (617) 242-5601. an overhaul in time for
5641. Open mid-Mar–Nov: 9am–5pm Open 9am–5pm daily her 1997 bicentennial
daily; Dec–mid-Mar: 1–5pm Mon–Fri, (Nov–mid-Mar: Thu– and is now in drydock
9am–5pm Sat & Sun; last climb: Sun). 7 8 Municipal art in for further restoration,
4:30pm. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Established in 1800 City Square but open for visits,
Dec 25. ∑ nps.gov/bost as one of the country’s until 2018. On July 4
In the Revolution’s first pitched first military shipyards, for 174 each year, she is taken out into
battle between British and years Charlestown Navy Yard the harbor for a turnaround that
colonial troops, the British won played a key role in supporting reverses her position at the pier
but failed to escape from Boston. the U.S. Atlantic fleet, as the to ensure equal weathering on
Following the June 17, 1775 Navy moved from wooden both sides. A small museum
battle, American irregulars were sailing ships to steel giants. The documents her history.
joined by other militia to keep men and women working at
British forces penned up until the yard built more than 200
George Washington forced their warships and carried out
evacuation by sea the following maintenance repairs on
March. A Tuscan-style pillar was thousands of others. The yard
erected in 1794 in honor of was designed by Alexander
Dr. Joseph Warren, a Boston Parris, architect of Quincy
revolutionary leader who died Market (see p66), and was
in the battle, but Charlestown one of the first examples of
citizens felt something grander industrial architecture in Boston.
was in order. They began raising On decommissioning,
funds for the Bunker Hill 30 acres of the Navy Yard were
Monument in 1823, laid the transferred to the National Park
cornerstone in 1825, and dedi- Service, and rangers now give
cated the 221-ft (67-m) granite tours of the facility on a daily
obelisk in 1843. The building has basis, including the Chain Forge
no elevator, but 294 steps lead to (where die-lock anchor chain
the top, giving spectacular views was first made), the Rope Walk,
of Boston harbor. Exhibitions and Dry Dock 1 (one of the first
recount the significance and dry docks in the U.S.). A Visitor U.S.S. Constitution, built in 1797, moored in
drama of the bloody battle. Center is located at Building 5. Charlestown Navy Yard
118 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
9 Concord
First settled in 1635, Concord is linked with neighboring drove three British companies
Lexington in the battles of April 19, 1775. Colonials favoring from the bridge and chased
separation from Great Britain hid munitions here and British them back to their occupation
barracks in Boston.
troops, seeking these supplies, marched on the town, passing Across the bridge is the
first through Lexington (see p121). The resulting battles in famous Minute Man statue,
Concord, along with the Lexington skirmish, are considered the crafted by Concord native
first of the American Revolution. Half a century later, with the Daniel Chester French (1850–
gathering of American writers including essayist Ralph Waldo 1931). A short trail leads from
the bridge to the North Bridge
Emerson, Concord blossomed as the literary heart of the U.S. The
Visitor Center. A reenactment
homes of many writers of the era are now preserved as museums. of the battle takes place every
year in April.
P Emerson House
28 Cambridge Tpk. Tel (978)
3692236. Open midApr–late
Oct: 10am–4:30pm Thu–Sat,
1–4:30pm Sun.& 8
Following his graduation from
Harvard, Ralph Waldo Emerson
(1803–82) spent his early
adulthood as a schoolteacher
and then as a Unitarian min
North Bridge in Minute Man National Historical Park ister. But as he grew away from
religious orthodoxy
P Monument Square Battle Green and and began to
At Concord’s center is Monument managed to prevail in promulgate his
Square. The square was the focus Concord center, they Transcendental
of a battle between British troops fared less well in the philosophy, Emerson
and Colonists on what has become countryside. Colonial withdrew from the
known as Patriots Day. Having militia and citizen ministry and moved
seized the gun cache of rebel soldiers (Minute Men) to Concord, living first
forces, British soldiers began burn successfully hid their in The Old Manse
ing them. Nearby Colonial forces cannon and powder where he wrote his
saw the smoke and, believing the stashes from a con manifesto Nature.
British were torching the town, tingent of British On marrying Lydia
rushed to Concord’s defense. soldiers by burying Minute Man statue Jackson in 1835, he
the munitions in in Concord settled into Emerson
P Minute Man National newly plowed fields. house, writing essays,
Historical Park – North They then confronted British organizing lecture tours, and
Bridge Visitor Center troops who were patrolling entertaining friends and
174 Liberty St. Tel (978) 3187810. North Bridge. The socalled admirers as the honored “Sage
Open Apr–Oct: 9:30am–5:30pm “shot heard round the world,” of Concord”. Emerson lived in
daily. Closed Nov–Mar. 7 memorialized in Emerson’s this house until his death in
∑ nps.gov/mima “Concord Hymn” (1837), is 1882. Much of his furniture,
Although British troops met widely considered to have set writings, books, and family
little resistance on Lexington off the war, as the Colonials memorabilia are on display here.
Along the Battle Road, by John Rush is located in the Minute Man Visitor Center
CONCORD 119
North Bridge C
Visitor Centre
NU
North
4 North Bridge Cemetery
ME
Bridge
NT
Minute Man
Statue
The Old
ST
TY
Manse
ER
LI B
Minute Man
National
STREET
Historical Park
D
A
LO
O
N R
M AR T I
W
EL
BEDFORD
REET
LO N G ST
L
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62
O
0 meters 500
BOW ST
A
Sleepy Hollow ET
RE
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Cemetery ST
RD 0 yards 500
O
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MONUMENT
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REE
SR
SQUARE T ST LUTI
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ET Orchard House,
RD
E The Wayside
WEST CONCORD, TR
MAYNARD
62 M A
IN S 2A
2A LEXINGTON,
A ROAD
W
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LD GTO
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SL
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Concord Museum
DB
ST
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ET Emerson T U M B
BB
RN RID
HU
Choosing a WalK
The Freedom
MiT Campus Trail continued
(p123) (pp128–9)
south Boston
The Freedom (pp124–5)
Trail (pp126–7)
Key 0 kilometers 1
From the Kendall/MIT “T” station, right onto Ames Street at the to the walkway that leads into the
walk to Main Street and turn right. Media Lab Extension building. heart of the campus. Set at the
Take the second right down Next door, the sleekly banded edge of the sidewalk on the left
Wadsworth Street to the corner white box with dark windows is is a complex sculpture of curves,
of Amherst Street, then head to the List Visual Arts Center 3, angles, and twisted planes commis
the back courtyard of the Arthur where galleries display changing sioned in 1975 from sculptor
D. Little Building, where exhibitions of innovative, con Louise Nevelson. Although
Pablo Picasso’s temporary art. Note Alexander painted, Transparent Horizon 6
MAIN STREET
STR EET
ET
RE
ST
STR EET
WAY
AM ES
SS
VA
H AY W A R D
CAR LET ON
ET
1
5 RE
ST
ST 2
4 HE
R
6
AM
8 AM
3
ES
ST
RE
ET
7 0 meters 200
0 yards 200
Key
Walk route Calder’s was constructed of nonrusting
intermediate corten steel. Continue past the
model for his sculpture, Nevelson and look to the left for
Figure Découpée 1 from 1963 The Big Sail, in the lobby 4. In a view of Alexander Calder’s fully
stands in a small garden. the central atrium, Kenneth realized, 40ft(12m)high sculp
Cross the intersection to the Tang Noland’s 1985 Here-There 5 ture, The Big Sail 7. Turn right to
Building, where Frank Stella’s 1988 carries the minimalist abstraction enter the Whitaker Building, where
abstract wall relief of acrylic and of the List building to its logical a projection screen in the ground
enamel on aluminum, Heads or artistic extreme in a fourstory level corridor shows experimental
Tails 2, fills the wall at the base interior wall mural. film and video. The Media Test
of the staircase atrium. Continue Join the students rushing to Wall 8, as the installation is
down Amherst Street and turn classes as you cross Ames Street called, is emblematic of the
school’s commitment to tech
nology in the arts. Cross through
Tips for Walkers
the Whitaker building for a view
Starting point: Kendall/MIT “T” of the south side of the Stata
Length: 0.8 miles (1.3 km). Center 9. Frank Gehry’s metal
Stopping-off points: Amelia’s sheathed complex constitutes
Trattoria (111 Harvard St.) serves a research and teaching village
gourmet pizzas and pasta dishes. devoted to computer, information,
Visitor information: See page and intelligence sciences. Walk
111 for museum opening hours. 5 Here-There mural (1985) by minimalist past the center to return to
artist Kenneth Noland Main Street and the “T” station.
For keys to symbols see back flap
124 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
cannons in 1776 to
force the British EAST B R O A D W AY
EM
STREET
ER
withdrawal ET
SO
G STREET
EAST 4TH ST N
RE ST
H S TREET
K S TREET
from Boston. ST
I S TREET
EAST 5TH ST
OLD HARBOR STREET
ER
ST
MERCER ST
L
HE
EAST 6TH ST
3 4
RC
1 Stone column at the entrance DO
E EAST 7TH ST
OL
8T
AY
H
DC
5
N
O LO
SO
M A RIN E ROA D
C OL U M B I A R O A D
AV E
LEV
INDEPENDENCE
Pleasure
EAST 4TH ST PARK Because Castle
Bay
Island controls the throat
O S TREET
N S TREET
P S TREET
EAST 5TH ST
of Boston harbor, it has
EAST 6TH ST
9 been fortified since 1634.
A RD
EV The current structure, Fort
EAST 7TH ST UL
BO Independence r, was erected
D AY
J. q in 1779 on George Washing
M
IA
W
ILL ton’s orders so that no enemy
w could ever again occupy Boston
8 as the British had done. It never
saw action, though it did serve
as a prisoner of war camp
gas storage tank in Dorchester. during the Civil War. Author
The tank was first painted in Edgar Allen Poe served here
rainbow colors by abstract briefly in the 1820s and is said to
artist Corita Kent in 1971. have based one of his macabre
0 meters 500 The causeway concludes tales, A Cask of Amontillado, on a
0 yards 5 00 at Castle Island, which has not fort legend of a man deliberately
been a real island since the confined in a dungeon. (Just
channel to the mainland was such a skeleton was uncovered
Key filled in 1891. Follow the sea during a renovation in 1905.)
side walkway which passes by The No. 11 bus, which runs
Walk route
a number of memorials to fallen along Day Boulevard, will take
South Boston firefighters, police you back to downtown Boston.
1
2 ST
B IN
EA
BOSTON DO
C W
O
N BO 3 Elegant Georgian steeple of Park
COMMON
ET
PA
RK ST Street Church
RE
PL R ST
EE ET
ST
E RS
T OM
RK
S
PE
PA
E
TREMONT ER AR
B
STRE T O N SQU
OLD GRANARY
ET BURYING
Park Street 3 GROUND
4
TREMONT
STREET
T
STREE
RT H
Government
6 5 Center
B O SW O
SCHOOL S
CH AP
M AN
PL AC E
COURT
FIELD
COUR
PROVIN
CE STR
EET RE
BROM
SQUA
TREET
T ST
EETR
WA
SHIN
GTO
N ST 7 State
9
8
SPRIN
M IL K ST
0
WA
ET
RE
G L
ST
TE
AN
R S
RE
ST
HI
T
NS
ET
AT
VO
DE
E
Central City
ST
RE
Heart of Old Boston speech debates and taxation Tips for Walkers
Head back along Tremont Street protests. A few blocks north,
and turn left down School the Old State House 9 Starting point: Boston Common.
Street, where a hopscotch- presides over the head of Maps available at Boston
like mosaic embedded in the State Street. The colonial Common Visitors’ Center.
sidewalk commemorates the site government building, it Length: 2.5 miles (4 km).
of the First Public School 6, also served as the first Getting there: Exit at Park
Street “T” station to start. Other
established in 1635. At the state legislature, and the
“T” stations also located on
end of the street is the Old merchants’ exchange in the
route: State, Haymarket, and
Corner Bookstore 7 (see p61), basement was where Boston’s Government Center. Follow
a landmark more associated colonial shipping fortunes red stripe on sidewalk for the
with Boston’s literary emer- were made. The square in full route.
gence of 1845–65 than with front of the Old State House
the Revolution. is the Boston Massacre
The Old South Meeting Site 0, where British soldiers
House 8, a short way to the opened fire on a taunting
south on Washington Street, mob in 1770, killing five and
is a graceful, white-spired providing propaganda for
brick church, modeled on revolutionary agitators.
Sir Christopher Wren’s English Follow State Street down
country churches. As one of to Congress Street and turn
the largest meeting halls in left to reach Faneuil Hall q,
Revolutionary Boston, “Old known as the “Cradle of
South’s” rafters rang with Liberty” for the history of
many a fiery speech urging patriotic speeches made in
revolt against the British. its public meeting hall.
It was a crucible for free- Donated to the city by
Huguenot merchant Peter
Faneuil, the building was
Haymarket
built primarily as Boston’s first
central marketplace.
ET
E
R
S E
T SALEM STREET Cradle of Liberty”
E
R ES ST
R
ET
G
N
RE
CO N
ST
IO HAN
N OVE
U
R ST
NE
REET
TO
N
KS
O
RT
AC
H
ST
BL
RE
ET HAN
q NO w OVER STREET
CLI
R T H STREET CT.
GA RD EN
CLARK STREET
NT
ET
NO
ON
RT H
RE
SQ
ST
UA
ST
RE
RE
ET
D
ON
ET
HM
RE
ST
TH
RIC
FUL R
TON NO
STR
EET
UE
Use the red EN
AV
stripe to negotiate N TIC
LA
your way down to North AT
End and the Paul Revere
House w on North Square.
Boston’s oldest private
residence, it was home to
the man famously known for
0 meters 200
his “midnight ride” (see p23).
From here, walk to Hanover 0 yards 2 00
E
G
ID
Hanover Street. Cross Gravestone at Copp’s Hill of the Revolution
R
B
through the Paul Burying Ground slain in the fight for
N
W
Revere Mall to reach freedom. Boston’s
O
ST
Old North Church e (see p73), first free African American
LE
R
whose spire is instantly visible community, “New Guinea,” Boston
A
H
over the shoulder of the statue covered the west side of Inner
Harbor C
of Paul Revere on horseback. Copp’s Hill. A broken column
Sexton Robert Newman marks the grave of Prince
famously hung two lanterns in Hall, head of the Black KEANY
SQUARE
the belfry here, signaling the Masons, distinguished
CO
advance of British troops on veteran of the MM
ER
Lexington and Concord in Revolution, and promi- CIA
ET
L S
1775. The church retains its nent political leader TR
RE
EE
ST
T
ET
RE
IN
LL
TRE
COPP'S HILL
TRE
HU LL ST
AVENUE
GROUND
E S
T
PRI
STREE
SALEM STREET FO ST ER
ST
AT L A N T I C
e
ET
R
ARTE
RE
ST
CH
TT
ET
NE
RE
EN
ST
H B
N
TO
RT
ES
NO
ET
TIL
STRE
VER
HANO
0 meters 200
0 yards 2 00
PLEA
SA NT STREET
UE
GH ST RE ET
ET
ET
RE
VEN
RE
ST
STREET
ST
D MONU
MENT
RD A
EN
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AVENU
A
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RV
RR
TREMONT
HA
WA
ET
HERFO
SOLEY
E
R STREET MONUMENT
ST
IN WI SQUARE
MA NT
HR
OP
STR
RUT
LEXINGTON STREET
EE
T
CITY
NEW
SQUARE PARK
STREE
T WINTHROP
SQUARE
ST
T
EN
MS S
R
R
A
ADA
W
ST
UT
CH TN
EL ES
SE
A CH
ST
RE
CO ET
N
ST
IT
U
TI
O
N
RO
A
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Key
Walk route
WHERE TO STAY
Boston offers the visitor almost every type of Boston has a perennial hotel shortage, which
accommodation: modest guesthouses, luxury keeps prices high and makes it difficult to
hotels, chain motels, Victorian brownstone book rooms during peak times. Even in
bed and breakfasts (B&Bs), and designer winter, it’s rare to find rooms under $100
“boutique” hotels. Many older hotels have per night; in summer, “budget” rates can
been renovated to provide traditional charm approach $200 or more. It is advisable
with modern conveniences, while new hotels to contact the city’s tourist information
keep opening in the city. Nevertheless, offices for room availability and prices.
DIRECTORY
Bed and Breakfast
Agencies
Bed & Breakfast
Agency of Boston
Tel (617) 720-3540.
or (800) 248-9262.
∑ boston-bnbagency.com
The elegant interior of the Presidential suite at Taj Boston, Back Bay (see p136)
Bed and Breakfast
Bed and Breakfasts complimentary kids’ DVD rentals. Associates Bay Colony, Ltd.
Boston has a good selection of Suites are available in many big Tel (617) 720-0522.
small hotels and B&Bs, offering hotels, giving families space to
or (888) 486-6018.
personal service and charm. spread out. For families on more
If you are looking for a classic moderate budgets, some ∑ bnbboston.com
B&B, contact one of Boston’s guesthouses offer apartment- Boston Homestay, Inc.
B&B booking agencies. A recent style accommodations. Be
∑ bostonhomestay.com
trend is the “boutique” hotel, aware that many B&Bs cannot
a small, elegant place, with accommodate young children.
Disabled Travelers
prices reflecting the level of
service and luxury. Contact Massachusetts Network of
the Bed & Breakfast Agency Budget Options
Information Providers for
of Boston, Bed and Breakfast It can be hard to find budget
Associates Bay Colony, or options in Boston. The centrally People with Disabilities
Boston Homestay, Inc. for located Boston Hostel Tel (800) 642-0249.
more information. (HI-Boston) has 468 beds in TTY (for people who
modern, eco-friendly private cannot hear).
and dorm rooms. Many travelers Tel (800) 764-0200.
Business Travelers find rentals through airbnb to ∑ disabilityinfo.org
Business travelers will find that be the most flexible and cost-
all major hotels provide fax and effective option. The North
Budget Options
Wi-Fi access. Some new or newly Shore towns of Salem and
refurbished hotels offer in-room Rockport, an hour north of airbnb
fax machines, multi-line phones, Boston, have mid-priced B&Bs
∑ airbnb.com
and private voice mail. It is wise and are accessible by the MBTA
to check whether older hotels commuter rail – contact the Hostelling International’s
have the facilities you require. North of Boston Convention Boston Hostel
and Visitors Bureau for details. (HI-Boston)
Disabled Travelers 19 Stuart St.
Disabled travelers may be most Recommended Hotels Map 1 C5
comfortable in the city’s newer The accommodations featured Tel (617) 536-9455.
hotels that have been built to in this guide have been ∑ bostonhostel.org
conform to access requirements. selected for their excellent
Some of the older hotels have facilities, outstanding location, North of Boston Convention
been refitted, but many small and good value. These hotels and Visitors Bureau
B&Bs have steps, narrow hallways, run the gamut across all environ- 17 Peabody Sq, Peabody,
or other architectural features ments, from small, family-owned MA 01960.
that may make access difficult. B&Bs and hotels catering to Tel (978) 977-7760.
For information, contact the Business executives to Historic
∑ northofboston.org
Massachusetts Network of hotels. While there are enough
Information Providers for Value options to choose from,
People with Disabilities. Luxury choices also abound,
offering the best in service and
amenities. For the best of the
Children best, look out for hotels high-
Children are welcome in most lighted as “DK Choice”. These
of the larger hotels and often establishments stand out for
stay free in their parents’ rooms. an exceptional feature, be it a
Some deluxe hotels provide stunning location, notable
child-friendly amenities such as history, or an inviting
bedtime milk and cookies, and atmosphere.
134 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Where to Stay
Onyx Hotel $$$ Price Guide
Business 155 Portland St, 02114 Prices are based on one night's stay in
Tel (617) 557-9955 Map 1 C2 high season for a standard double room,
Back Bay and South End ∑ onyxhotel.com inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Copley Square Hotel $$$ Stylish place with modest-sized $ under $200
47 Huntington Ave, 02116 rooms and warm decor. Morning $$ $200 to $300
$$$ over $300
Tel (617) 536-9000 Map 3 C5 car service to the Financial District.
∑ copleysquarehotel.com
Modern, comfortable rooms and Wyndham Boston Seaport Boston Hotel $$$
premier service. Centrally located. Beacon Hill $$$ 1 Seaport Lane, 02210
Trendy on-site restaurant. 5 Blossom St, 02114 Tel (617) 385-4000
Tel (617) 742-7630 Map 1 B3 ∑ seaportboston.com
Loews Boston Hotel $$$ ∑ wyndham.com Modern place connected to the
350 Stuart St, 02116 Pleasant rooms featuring modern World Trade Center. Regular shut-
Tel (617) 266-7200 Map 4 D2 amenities. Well-equipped fitness tles offer access to other areas.
∑ loewshotels.com center. Close to area attractions.
Chic, well-appointed rooms with Westin Boston Waterfront $$$
contemporary atmosphere. Ideal 425 Summer St, 02210
for tourists and shoppers. Chinatown and the Tel (617) 532-4600
Theater District ∑ starwoodhotels.com
Sheraton Boston Hotel $$$ Rooms featuring all modern
39 Dalton St, 02199 DoubleTree by Hilton $$$ conveniences. Several restaurant
Tel (617) 236-2000 Map 3 B3 821 Washington St, 02111 options on site.
∑ sheratonbostonhotel.com Tel (617) 956-7900 Map 4 E2
Conveniently located modern ∑ doubletree3.hilton.com
hotel provides comforts of home Spacious rooms with meticulous Old Boston and the
while catering to business needs. decor and modern comforts. Financial District
Warm, attentive service.
Westin Copley Place $$$ Club Quarters $$
10 Huntington Ave, 02116 Revere Hotel $$$ 161 Devonshire St, 02110
Tel (617) 262-9600 Map 3 C3 200 Stuart St, 02116 Tel (617) 357–6400 Map 2 D4
∑ westincopleyplaceboston.com Tel (617) 482-1800 Map 4 D2 ∑ clubquarters.com
Comfortable, well-furnished ∑ reverehotel.com Conveniently located near Faneuil
rooms. Linked to the Hynes Luxurious property in a prime Hall. Full-service accommodations
Convention Center via a skybridge. location. Lounge and restaurant offered in a club–like atmo-
are both popular. Well-furnished sphere. Complimentary services.
rooms with many additional perks.
Beacon Hill and DK Choice
West End W Boston $$$
100 Stuart St, 02116 Hilton Boston Downtown/
The Boxer Boston $$$ Tel (617) 261-8700 Map 4 E2 Faneuil Hall $$$
107 Merrimac St, 02109 ∑ starwoodhotels.com 89 Broad St, 02110
Tel (617) 624-0202 Map 1 C2 Trendy place with well-appointed Tel (617) 556-0006 Map 2 E4
∑ theboxerboston.com rooms. Restaurant and lobby bar ∑ hiltonbostondowntown.com
Contemporary rooms with large are popular hangouts. Located in the financial district,
beds, big Beaux-Arts windows this Art Deco hotel is popular
and modern technology. with business executives. It also
Farther Afield caters to families as Faneuil Hall,
Hotel Marlowe $$$ Quincy Market, and the North
25 Edwin H. Land Blvd, End are all a short stroll away.
Cambridge, 02141 Rooms are spacious and have
Tel (617) 868-8000 Map 1 A2 all modern amenities. The wel-
∑ hotelmarlowe.com coming restaurant/lounge and
Modern and lavish rooms. library are ideal spots for closing
Complimentary evening wine deals as well as social meetings.
reception by the lobby fireplace.
Steps away from Charles River.
Green Turtle Floating Sweeping city views from the rooftop restaurant at Taj Boston, Back Bay
Bed and Breakfast $$$
1 Pier 8, Charlestown, 02129 The Colonnade Hotel $$$ Hotel Commonwealth $$$
Tel (617) 337-0202 120 Huntington Ave, 02116 500 Commonwealth Ave, 02215
∑ greenturtlebb.com Tel (617) 424-7000 Map 3 B3 Tel (617) 933-5000
Unique option offering rooms ∑ colonnadehotel.com ∑ hotelcommonwealth.com
on three yachts. Boasts expansive Large rooms with modern Modern property offers gracious
views of the Boston Harbor skyline. comforts. Outdoor rooftop pool. hospitality close to historical sites.
Old Boston and the Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Harvard Square Hotel $$
Financial District Suites Boston Garden $$$ 110 Mt. Auburn St, Cambridge, 02138
280 Friend St, 02114 Tel (617) 864-5200
Ames Hotel $$$ Tel (617) 720-5544 Map 1 C2 ∑ harvardsquarehotel.com
1 Court St, 02108 ∑ hiexboston.com Former motor inn offers modern,
Tel (617) 979-8100 Map 2 D3 Modern accommodations sophisticated rooms. Friendly
∑ ameshotel.com located across the TD Banknorth service. Excellent location in the
Old world architecture meets Garden and just a few minutes midst of Harvard Square.
modern style at this luxury walk away from area attractions.
option in a prime location. Complimentary hot breakfasts. Holiday Inn Express Hotel &
Suites Boston - Cambridge $$
Langham Boston Hotel $$$ 250 Monsignor O’Brien Hwy,
250 Franklin St, 02110 Chinatown and the Cambridge, 02141
Tel (617) 451-1900 Map 2 D4 Theater District Tel (617) 577-7600
∑ langhamboston.com ∑ hiecambridge.com
Art Nouveau building with 19th- Courtyard Boston Dependable roadside option,
century French decor. Spacious Downtown $$ just a short walk to the
rooms with deluxe amenities. 275 Tremont St, 02116 nearest transportation.
Tel (617) 426-1400 Map 4 E2
Millennium Bostonian $$$ ∑ marriott.com Hotel Indigo Boston-Newton
26 North St, 02109 Designed in a dramatic style, Riverside $$
Tel (617) 523-3600 Map 2 D3 this Marriott property has crystal 339 Grove St, Newton, 02462
∑ millenniumhotels.com chandeliers and marble columns. Tel (617) 454-3399
Upscale accommodations near Rooms feature modern amenities ∑ newtonboutiquehotel.com
Faneuil Hall Marketplace. Elegant with a 1920s allure. Eco-friendly, state-of-the-art
rooms range in size. There is a rooms. Decor changes seasonally.
gas-burning fireplace in the lobby. Outdoor pool has private cabanas.
Farther Afield Popular on-site restaurant.
XV Beacon $$$
15 Beacon St, 02108 Kendall Hotel $$$
Tel (617) 670-1500 Map 1 C4 DK Choice 350 Main St, Cambridge, 02142
∑ xvbeacon.com Constitution Inn $ Tel (617) 577-1300
Designer decor and attentive 150 Third Ave, Charlestown, ∑ kendallhotel.com
service. Chic but cozy rooms 02129 A century-old firehouse converted
feature high-tech extras. Popular Tel (617) 241-8400 by an artist-architect duo. Offers
with business execs. ∑ constitutioninn.org spacious rooms. Decor includes fire-
Conveniently located in the house memorabilia and antiques.
historic Charlestown Navy
Yard, the Constitution Inn
Value offers clean, comfortable Old Boston and the
Back Bay and South End
rooms, some of which have Financial District
attached kitchenettes. Guests
Midtown Hotel $ enjoy standard amenities such Harborside Inn $$
220 Huntington Ave, 02115 as Wi-Fi, cable TV, along with 185 State St, 02109
Tel (617) 262-1000 Map 3 B4 use of a pool and a fitness Tel (617) 723-7500 Map 2 E3
∑ midtownhotel.com center. The property sits on ∑ harborsideinnboston.com
This 1960s-style motor inn boasts the Freedom Trail, just a short Modest property in an old spice
simple style, great value, and stroll to key sites such as the warehouse. Rooms have wooden
secure parking. The connecting U.S.S. Constitution and the floors, exposed brick walls, oriental
rooms are perfect for big families. Bunker Hill Monument. rugs, and traditional furnishings.
Charlesmark Hotel $$
655 Boylston St, 02116 Days Hotel Boston $
Tel (617) 247-1212 Map 3 C2 1234 Soldiers Field Rd, 02135
∑ charlesmarkhotel.com Tel (617) 254-1234
Contemporary, European-style ∑ daysinn.com
hotel set in an 1892 town house. Clean and basic accommodations
Rooms feature custom-made on the Charles River. Rooms
furniture and Italian tiles. boast attractive water views.
Just a short ride away from
Harvard Square.
Beacon Hill and
West End enVision Hotel Boston $$
81 South Huntington Ave, Jamaica
Friend Street Hostel $ Plain, 02130
234 Friend St, 02114 Tel (617) 383-5229
Tel (617) 248-8971 Map 1 C2 ∑ envision-hotel-boston.com
∑ friendstreethostel.com Upscale decor, local historic
Clean and inexpensive architecture, modern style, com-
dormitory-style accommodations fortable rooms and personal
close to all area attractions. service make this a great option to
Rooms have many amenities. stay. Evening receptions feature Luxurious studio appointed with all modern
Friendly atmosphere. regional appetizers and desserts. comforts at XV Beacon Hotel
For more information on types of hotels see page 133
138 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO EAT
AND DRINK
For a number of years, Boston had a city delight in using fresh New England
reputation of serving stodgy, old New produce to create their innovative dishes.
England fare. Today, however, this is no The top restaurants serve a medley of
longer the case, as the city now has a wide styles, such as French and Italian, often
variety of exciting places to eat. Along using other Mediterranean and Asian
with more traditional cuisine, Boston accents. For other flavors of the world,
restaurants show many diverse influences, Boston has many Indian, Southeast Asian,
with dynamic immigrant restaurateurs Latin American, Caribbean, Chinese, and
and innovative chefs transforming the Japanese restaurants, which are located
local restaurant culture. Celebrated chefs in small neighborhoods and fashionable
also bring classic Boston cuisine to life for streets alike. Boston has an excellent
modern palates, and eateries all over the selection of cafés and bars as well.
Etiquette
Bostonians tend to dress
casually when dining out.
Restaurants that enforce
dress codes usually require
a reservation, so ask when
booking. For the top dining
rooms, a jacket and tie for
men is expected. Ladies may
wear slacks, although skirts
or dresses are more traditional.
Formal evening wear is uncom
mon, but not out of place
in the finer restaurants. Enjoying a beer outside at one of Quincy Market’s bars
140 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Baked scrod Fillets of young New England clam chowder Boston cream pie Layers of
cod (scrod) are rolled in Fresh clams, either left whole or sponge cake, sandwiched with
breadcrumbs, baked, and then chopped, and chunks of potato egg custard, are topped with
served with tartare sauce. fill this creamy soup. chocolate icing.
142 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Sakura-Bana $$
Japanese Map 2 E4
57 Broad St, 02109
Tel (617) 542-4311
This sushi house in the Financial
District appeals to those looking
for fresh, affordable maki rolls,
sashimi, and other Japanese
fare. Friendly servers patrol the
simply decorated environs.
DK Choice
Silvertone $$
American Map 1 C4
Lively crowds enjoying beer and pub grub at The Black Rose, Financial District 69 Bromfield St, 02108
Tel (617) 338-7887
Scampo $$$ Sam LaGrassa’s $ A subterranean hangout near
Italian Map 1 B3 Deli/Latin American Map 2 D4 Downtown Crossing and the
215 Charles St, 02114 44 Province St, 02108 Boston Common, Silvertone
Tel (617) 536-2100 Tel (617) 357-6861 is a favorite among industry
Located within the stylish Busy downtown eatery that crowds and foodies looking for
Liberty Hotel, this trendy creates some of the city’s best well-prepared American fare.
spot offers a modern Italian- sandwiches stuffed with freshly The rich mac ‘n’ cheese and
accented menu. Highlights carved meats. Share a table with juicy burgers are legendary.
include suckling pig, baby local workers or enjoy your The lively bar area is an ideal
lamb, home-made pastas, sandwich on the Boston Common. spot for couples or groups,
and a range of dishes made thanks to an impressive drink
with fresh mozzarella. Anthem $$ menu, featuring hand-crafted
American Map 2 D3 cocktails and an assortment
Toscano Restaurant $$$ 101 South Market St, 02109 of shareable snacks.
Italian Map 1 B4 Tel (617) 720-5570
47 Charles St, 02114 A greenhouse-like place with wall-
Tel (617) 723-4090 to-wall windows facing Faneuil Society on High $$
Prestigious Italian restaurant Hall. The menu features steak New American Map 1 D4
with interesting upscale versions house grub and wood-grilled 99 High St, 02110
of popular pasta dishes. The flatbread pizzas. The congenial Tel (857) 350-4555
beautiful setting and excellent setting includes two bar areas. Smart and contemporary, this
service add to the romantic bistro in the Financial District
atmosphere. Extensive wine The Black Rose $$ has New England specialties
list boasts many bold labels. Irish Map 2 E3 like fish and chips and clam
160 State St, 02109 chowder, alongside a huge
Tel (617) 742-2286 choice of tapas. The lobster
Irish bar filled with interesting poached in butter is heavenly.
Old Boston and the bric-a-brac. The extensive
Financial District beer list is accompanied by
standard Irish pub grub. Very
Union Oyster House $$
Seafood Map 2 D3
Boloco $ crowded on St Patrick’s Day 41 Union St, 02110
Café Map 2 D4 and other Irish festivals. Tel (617) 227-2750
284 Congress St, 02210 One of the oldest restaurants in
Tel (617) 284-7488 Durgin Park $$ America, this place was a favorite
Casual area chain known for American Map 2 D3 of President Kennedy. The menu
an eclectic menu of burritos 340 Faneuil Hall Marketplace, 02109 features a bounty of seafood.
and wraps. Fresh, healthy Tel (617) 227-2038 Boston scrod and the raw bar are
ingredients attract mostly Historic spot dating back to 1826. recommended. Feast on oysters
locals looking for a quick, Family-style seating makes for a from around the world.
nutritious lunch. No alcohol. bustling atmosphere. Traditional
dishes include baked beans, Bond Restaurant
Chacarero $ Indian pudding, and grilled and Lounge $$$
Deli Map 2 D4 prime rib. Generous portions. New American Map 2 D4
101 Arch St, 02108 250 Franklin St, 02110
Tel (617) 542-0392 The Kinsale $$ Tel (617) 451-1900
This no-frills Downtown Crossing Irish Map 1 C3 The locavore menu at this
lunch spot is famous for its 2 Center Plaza, 02108 cosmopolitan spot boasts an
authentic Chilean sandwiches Tel (617) 742-5577 array of dishes featuring local
of smoky grilled meat and Handsome Irish bar and restaurant seafood and farm-fresh veggies.
flavorful toppings piled onto with a huge sidewalk patio. House charcuterie leads into such
spongy fresh bread. Watch The lengthy menu incorporates entrées as steaks, braised lamb
out for the fiery hot sauces. both Irish and American dishes. shank, and diver scallops. The
No alcohol. Popular hangout for watching decor exudes an air of privilege.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 139
144 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Mooo… $$$
Steak House Map 1 C4
15 Beacon St, 02108
Tel (617) 670-2515
Unusually named steak house
in the chic XV Beacon Hotel.
The extensive menu has plenty
of options beyond fine steaks
and chops. Efficient service.
The Oceanaire
Seafood Room $$$
Seafood Map 2 D3
40 Court St, 02108
Tel (617) 742-2277
Part of a small national chain
of upscale fish restaurants, that
offers a versatile menu of out
standing seafood, both local and Classy interiors of The Oceanaire Seafood Room, Financial District
flown in fresh. The setting retains
the marble charm of the bank Barking Crab $$ Maurizio’s Ristorante
that once occupied the space. Seafood Map 2 E5 Italiano $$
88 Sleeper St, 02110 Italian Map 2 E2
Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse $$$ Tel (617) 426-2722 364 Hanover St, 02113
Steak House Map 2 D4 This vibrant fish shack is at its Tel (617) 367-1123
45 School St, 02108 peak in summer. Choose from Lovely spot with a menu featuring
Tel (617) 742-8401 exceptionally fresh local seafood Sardinian dishes and focusing on
Prime cuts of beef and rich, sinful such as lobster, clams, haddock, excellent seafood preparations.
sides such as sauteed mush and cod. Lovely skyline views. Sardinian and Ligurian white
rooms and potatoes au gratin, are Outdoor seating. wines complement the bold
served at this restaurant in the flavors. The handmade stuffed
old City Hall building. Part of an Dino’s Café $$ pastas are a musttry.
international chain, Ruth’s has an Italian/Deli Map 2 D2
extensive list of highend wines 141 Salem St, 02113 Neptune Oyster $$
and a sommelier to guide you Tel (617) 227-1991 Seafood Map 2 D2
through it. Tiny, nofrills eatery offering 63 Salem St, 02113
a variety of hearty meals. The Tel (617) 742-3474
huge Italian sandwiches are a Expect a wait for a table at
favorite with locals. Pasta dishes this small seafood eatery.
North End and are also delicious and can serve Exceptionally fresh raw bar items
the Waterfront two. Impeccable service. jockey for attention with expertly
prepared dishes. Friendly staff.
Ernesto’s Pizzeria $ Giacomo’s Ristorante $$
Pizza Map 2 D2 Italian Map 2 E2 Sportello $$
69 Salem St, 02113 355 Hanover St, 02113 Italian Map 2 E5
Tel (617) 523-1373 Tel (617) 523-9026 348 Congress St, 02116
Simple place with plastic seating One of North End’s most enduring Tel (617) 737-1234
offering 24 different pizza topping restaurants, Giacomo’s serves Homemade pastas, gourmet
combinations. The signature classic Italian dishes, including soups, grilled paninis, veal
mala femina pie is topped with hearty portions of pasta. Casual sweetbreads, day boat scallops,
artichoke hearts, fresh tomatoes, atmosphere. Cash only. and elegant decor. The takeout
and blue cheese. Delivery avail counter has freshly baked breads
able to most Boston hotel rooms. James Hook & Co. $$ and imported Italian treats.
Seafood Map 2 E4
Pizzeria Regina $ 440 Atlantic Ave, 02111 State Street Provisions $$
Pizza Map 2 D2 Tel (617) 423-5501 New American Map 1 E3
11 1/2 Thatcher St, 02113 Located on Fort Point Channel, 265 State St, 02210
Tel (617) 227-0765 this seafood market is popular Tel (617) 863-8363
Open since 1926, this is one of with locals who pop in for freshly This classy bar and bistro at the
the city’s bestknown pizza spots. cooked lobster, clams, crab, and foot of Long Wharf serves modern
Feast on amazing brickoven pies fish togo. Superb lobster rolls. comfort fare, from a great house
accompanied by inexpensive wine. No alcohol. charcuterie and cheese board
to inventive pizzas, daily pasta
Antico Forno $$ La Famiglia Giorgio $$ specials, and lobster rolls. The
Italian Map 2 D2 Italian Map 2 D2 bar can get loud in evenings.
93 Salem St, 02108 112 Salem St, 02113
Tel (617) 723-6733 Tel (617) 367-6711 Terramia $$
Tasty woodfired pizzas draw in Known for its generous portions Italian Map 2 D2
locals and tourists alike to two and upbeat ambience, this is a 98 Salem St, 02113
casual dining rooms with great place for families and couples. Tel (617) 523-3112
colorful murals and brickwork. Serves pastas, pizzas, and other This snug trattoria eschews the
Menu also includes homemade Italian staples. Coffee and dessert redsauce neighborhood heritage
pastas. Reserve in advance. are served – a North End rarity. in favor of Piedmontese roasted
Key to Price Guide see page 142
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 145
meats, savory dishes with dark Meritage $$$ Gourmet Dumpling House $
mushrooms and caramelized New American Map 2 E4 Chinese Map 1 C5
onions, and Ligurian-style seafood 70 Rowes Wharf, 02110 52 Beach St, 02111
dressed with capers and lemon. Tel (617) 439-3995 Tel (617) 338-6223
A superb destination for wine Simple Chinatown eatery that
Trade $$ lovers. The varied menu features tempts with authentic hand-
New American Map 2 E4 suggested wine pairings for each made dumplings and other
540 Atlantic Ave, 02210 dish. Rich desserts and fine Chinese comfort food such as
Tel (617) 451-1234 cheeses matched to ports and spicy fish Szechuan, eel noodles,
Breezy after-work hot spot Sauternes provide a great finish. and herbal squid and oxtail soup.
serving Mediterranean-inspired
bites, flatbreads, craft beers, and My Thai Vegan Cafe $
designer cocktails. Huge win- DK Choice Vegan Map 1 C5
dows look out onto the Kennedy Prezza $$$ 3 Beach St, 02111
Greenway. The bar is popular. Italian Map 2 E2 Tel (617) 451-2395
24 Fleet St, 02113 Casual Asian eatery specializing in
Yankee Lobster Company $$ Tel (617) 227-1577 vegetarian and vegan dishes such
Seafood The menu here is based on the as curry rice noodles with bean
300 Northern Ave, 02210 cuisine of Abruzzo, in Italy, sprouts, ginger tofu, and mango
Tel (617) 345-9799 with handmade pastas and fried rice. Many of the meatless
Simple seafood eatery close meat and fish dishes cooked options on the lengthy menu
to the waterfront. Popular patio on a wood-burning grill. The feature imitation proteins.
area provides a breezy setting extensive wine list has the Friendly staff. No alcohol.
to enjoy steamed lobster, fish perfect pairings for the hearty
and chips, and clam chowder. Tuscan fare and the desserts Pho Pasteur $
are deliciously decadent. Vietnamese Map 1 C5
Bricco $$$ 682 Washington St, 02111
Italian Map 2 D2 Tel (617) 482-7467
241 Hanover St, 02113 Scopa $$$ Popular restaurant serving steam-
Tel (617) 248-6800 Italian Map 2 E2 ing bowls of pho (Vietnamese
Stylish trattoria that is a great 319 Hanover St, 02113 noodle soup) and other pan-
spot for socializing over Abruzzo- Tel (857) 317-2871 Asian treats such as wontons,
style pastas or inventive dishes Maybe the best handmade fried rice, and seafood dishes.
such as steamed mussels with pasta in the North End, along No alcohol.
smoked red pepper and braised with classic starters, boldly
broccoli rabe. Window tables roasted meats, and four Chau Chow City $$
afford colorful North End views. gourmet pizza options. Chinese Map 4 F2
83 Essex St, 02111
Carmen $$$ Tel (617) 338-8158
Italian Map 2 E2 Modern Hong Kong seafood
33 North Sq, 02113 Chinatown and the dishes, such as scallops with green
Tel (617) 742-6421 Theater District beans and macadamia nuts, top
Cozy eatery specializing in the menu on the lower two floors.
small plates – such as mussels Dong Khanh $ A third level serves dim sum. The
and cheeses – with great wine Vietnamese Map 1 C5 shrimp dumplings are renowned.
pairings. Fine pastas with classic 81 Harrison Ave, 02111
sauces are also available. Close Tel (617) 426-9410 East Ocean City $$
quarters and seating below A favorite among Boston’s Chinese Map 4 E2
street level make for a romantic Vietnamese residents, this 27 Beach St, 02111
atmosphere. homey market bistro offers Tel (617) 542-2504
light noodle soups and classic Legendary spot where seafood is
Legal Harborside $$$ dishes such as chopped salads, taken from tanks in front of diners
Seafood lemongrass chicken, and mixed and cooked immediately. Friendly
270 Northern Ave, 02210 seafood plates. Good vegetarian servers help in choosing from the
Tel (617) 477-2900 choices. No alcohol. wide-ranging menu.
Legendary local chain serving
fresh fish in a waterfront, fine-
dining setting. Their clam chowder
is unrivaled and the raw clams
and oysters are impeccable.
Menton $$$
French/Italian Map 2 E5
354 Congress St, 02210
Tel (617) 737-0099
The crown jewel of celebrity chef
Barbara Lynch's fleet of Boston
eateries. Pricey set menus are
executed by an expert culinary
team. Knowledgeable servers
explain the menu’s many
intricacies and guide patrons
through the impressive wine list. Casual dining area with an open kitchen at Sportello (see opposite), in Fort Point
For more information on types of restaurants see page 139
146 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Stephanie’s on Newbury $$
American Map 3 B2
190 Newbury St, 02116
Tel (617) 236-0990
A local institution known for
filling dinner salads and pasta
dishes. Signature plates include
smoked salmon potato pancakes
and meatloaf layered with cheese
and caramelized onions. Offers
Back Bay’s best outdoor seating. Sophisticated Crystal dining room at L’Espalier, a French restaurant on Boylston Street
148 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Top of the Hub $$$ This sunny café whips up gourmet pub grub attract crowds of local
New American Map 3 B3 coffee drinks, healthy sandwiches, aficionados to this place. The
800 Boylston St, 02199 and tasty snacks. Small, split-level outdoor patio is sought-after in
Tel (617) 536-1775 space. Most patrons buy food to summer. Grab a growler to go.
Perched atop the regal Prudential go, while others eat outside in
Tower, this restaurant boasts the Harvard Square. The Helmand $$
best skyline views in Boston. The Afghan
menu features New England L.A. Burdick Chocolates $ 143 1st St, Cambridge, 02142
seafood and savory aged meats. Café Tel (617) 492-4646
A classy bar and superb service 52 Brattle St, Cambridge, 02138 One of the country’s most
are also a draw. Tel (617) 491-4340 famous Afghan restaurants with
Welcoming café run by a gourmet a stylish dining room. The menu
chocolatier in a small space. features fiery curries and freshly
DK Choice Indulge in exquisitely crafted baked breads. Go for the aushak
Toro $$$ chocolates, designer pastries, and (Afghan stuffed ravioli) and kaddo
Spanish Map 3 C5 the famously thick hot chocolate. (pumpkin topped with ground
1704 Washington St, 02118 meat and yogurt sauce).
Tel (617) 536-4300 Sofra $
The restaurant is named Café Il Casale $$
for the chef-owner’s love of 1 Belmont St, Cambridge, 02138 Italian
Spanish tapas and Japanese Tel (617) 661-3161 50 Leonard St, Belmont, 02462
sushi and sashimi bars. Inviting café-bakery on a busy Tel (617) 209-4942
An assortment of modern corner churning out modern inter- This old fire station houses this
tapas includes house-cured pretations of hummus, tzatziki delightful eatery that serves home-
meat dishes and imported (Greek yogurt), kibbeh (Greek made pasta dishes as well as
items such as cripsy pork croquette), and stuffed flatbreads. wood-grilled meats and fish. Many
belly with snails. A preferred A small seating area is available, dishes are from family recipes.
date spot among the stylish, but many opt to take treats to go.
well-dressed Bostonians. Le’s $$
Border Café $$ Vietnamese
Mexican 36 Dunster St, Cambridge, 02138
Tremont 647 $$$ 32 Church St, Cambridge, 02138 Tel (617) 864-4100
International Map 3 C4 Tel (617) 864-6100 A favored haunt of Harvard
647 Tremont St, 02118 One of Harvard Square’s most students, this congenial restaurant
Tel (617) 266-4600 popular options for inexpensive serves steaming bowls
Trendy eatery in the heart of the eats. Tex-Mex favorites such as of delectable pho. A range of
South End. Menu includes inter- fajitas and nachos as well as spicy other noodle dishes, as well as
national touches as well as smoky Cajun fare. The margaritas are tasty. healthy entrées and rice plates,
meats with bold flavors. Momos are also available.
(Tibetan dumplings) are a signature Bronwyn $$
dish. Weekend pajama brunches German Mr. Bartley’s Gourmet Burgers $$
bring diners in their sleepwear. 255 Washington St, Somerville, 02143 Burgers
Tel (617) 776-9900 1246 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge,
UNI Clio $$$ Chic upscale eatery offering an 02138
Japanese Map 3 A3 exploration of authentic German Tel (617) 354-6559
370-A Commonwealth Ave, 02215 sausages and beers. Hip, young Quintessential burger shop
Tel (617) 536-7200 crowds fill the bustling bar space specializing in filling gourmet
Celebrity chef Ken Oringer to hoist steins of imported beers burgers. Some of the sandwiches
creates a contemporary izakaya and snack on hearty, soft pretzels. are humorosly named after a
at the Eliot Hotel, with innovative celebrity or politician. Expect
sashimi and spectacular seafood. Cambridge Brewing Company $$ long waits on weekends.
Small plates inspired by global American
street food are offered late at 1 Kendall Square, Cambridge, 02139 Redbones $$
night on weekends. Tel (617) 494-1994 Barbeque
Award-winning beers brewed 55 Chester St, Somerville, 02144
on site and a menu of standard Tel (617) 628-2200
Farther Afield
Clover Food Lab $
Vegetarian
1326 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge,
02138
Fast-food reinvention emphasizes
seasonal ingredients, with many
vegan options and kid-friendly
choices. French fries with fried
rosemary and BBQ seitan platters
are cult favorites.
Crema Café $
Café
27 Brattle St, Cambridge, 02138
Tel (617) 876-2700 The eclectic interior of Mr. Bartley’s Gourmet Burgers
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 149
in Central Square With the features specialty flavors such For good, down-to-earth bars,
demise of Herrell’s, Lizzy’s Ice as peanut sunrise, as well as you cannot go wrong with the
Cream has emerged as the a chance to work off some youthful Shay’s Pub and Wine
new standard bearer of Harvard calories on their candlepin Bar, The Sevens, the cheap and
Square. Try the Charles River bowling lanes. cheerful Beacon Hill Pub, the
Crunch (dark chocolate ice well-heeled 21st Amendment,
cream with almond toffee or the kitschy lounge paradise
nuggets). Competition for most Bars of The Good Life. Parker’s Bar
inventive flavors is stiff. For The legal drinking age in at the Omni Parker House
example, Christina’s Homemade Boston is 21, and you may Hotel has the atmosphere
Ice Cream in Inman Square be asked to show proof of of a gentleman’s club, while
makes the best green tea ice identification (see p174). around the city are dotted a
cream in the city, as well as Boston has scores of bars number of good wine bars,
a wide range of other flavors, which offer live music and other notably Les Zygomates and
ranging from the sublime to types of entertainment (see also Troquet. Jacob Wirth (see p87),
the simply gooey. pp162–3). Those listed here are a which is also a restaurant,
A little farther afield, Ron’s good place to relax and simply is situated in the Theater
Gourmet Ice Cream and have a drink, though some of District and has good beer
Twentieth Century Bowl them can still be quite lively. and a lively ambience.
DIRECTORY
Cafés L.A. Burdick Taj Boston Bars
Chocolates 15 Arlington St.
1369 Coffeehouse 52 Brattle St., Cambridge. Map 4 D2. 21st Amendment
1369 Cambridge St., Tel (617) 491-4340. Tel (617) 536-5700. 150 Bowdoin St.
Cambridge. Map 1 C3.
Lulu’s Sweet Shop Tealuxe
Tel (617) 576-1369. Tel (617) 227-7100.
57 Salem St. Brattle St., Cambridge.
757 Massachusetts Ave.
Map 2 D2. Tel (617) 441-0077. Beacon Hill Pub
Tel (617) 576-4600.
149 Charles St.
Tel (617) 742-0070.
Berkeley Perk Cafe Ice Cream Parlors Map 1 B3.
69 Berkeley St. Maria’s Pastry Shop Tel (617) 625-7100.
46 Cross St. Ben and Jerry’s
Map 4 D3.
Map 2 D3. 174 Newbury St. The Good Life
Tel (617) 426-7375.
Tel (617) 523-1196. Map 3 B2. 28 Kingston St.
Café Pamplona Tel (617) 536-5456. Map 2 D5.
12 Bow St., Cambridge. Mike’s Pastry 20 Park Plaza. Tel (617) 451-2622.
Tel (617) 492-0352. 300 Hanover St. Map 4 D2.
Map 2 E2. Tel (617) 426-0890. Jacob Wirth
Caffè Pompei Tel (617) 742-3050. 31–37 Stuart St.
36 John F. Kennedy St.,
278 Hanover St. Map 4 E2.
Tatte Cambridge.
Map 2 E2. Tel (617) 338-8586.
70 Charles St. Tel (617) 864-2828.
Tel (617) 227-1562.
Map 1 B2. Christina’s Homemade Les Zygomates
Caffè Vittoria Tel (617) 523-9200. Ice Cream 129 South St.
290–296 Hanover St. 1255 Cambridge St. Map 4 F2.
Map 2 E2. Tea Rooms Tel (617) 492-7021. Tel (617) 542-5108.
Tel (617) 227-7606.
Bristol Lounge Emack & Bolio’s Parker’s Bar
Crema Café 200 Boylston St. 290 Newbury St. 60 School St.
27 Brattle St., Cambridge. Map 4 D2. Map 3 B2. Map 2 D4.
Tel (617) 876-2700. Tel (617) 338-4400. Tel (617) 536-7127. Tel (617) 227-8600.
Flour Bakery & Café Courtyard Lizzy’s Ice Cream The Sevens
1595 Washington St. Restaurant 29 Church St., Cambridge. 77 Charles St. Map 1 B3.
Map 3 C5. Boston Public Library, Tel (617) 354-2911. Tel (617) 523-9074.
Tel (617) 267-4300. 700 Boylston St.
Ron’s Gourmet Ice Shay’s Pub and
12 Farnsworth St. Map 3 C2.
Cream and Twentieth Wine Bar
Map 2 E5. Tel (617) 859-2251.
Century Bowl 58 John F. Kennedy St.,
Tel (617) 338-4333.
Dado Tea 1231 Hyde Park Ave., Cambridge.
190 Massachusetts Ave.,
955 Massachusetts Ave., Hyde Park, MA 02136. Tel (617) 864-9161.
Cambridge.
Cambridge. Tel (617) 364-5274.
Tel (617) 225-2525. Troquet
131 Clarendon St. Tel (617) 497-9061. Toscanini’s 140 Boylston St.
Map 3 C3. 50 Church St., Cambridge. 899 Main St., Cambridge. Map 4 E2.
Tel (617) 437-7700. Tel (617) 547-0950. Tel (617) 491-5877. Tel (617) 695-9463.
152 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
SHOPPING IN BOSTON
Shopping in Boston has evolved furnishings or ethnic treasures, to the
dramatically in recent years. Long known varied art and crafts galleries, Boston caters
as an excellent center for antiques, books, to every shopping need. Whether you are
and quality clothing, the city’s shopping looking for the latest fashion accessory,
options now cover a much broader an unusual antique, or a special souvenir,
spectrum, influenced both by its booming choices abound to accommodate every
economy and its large, international sense of style and budget. Boston is no
student population. From the fashionable longer simply traditional, and now holds
boutiques of Newbury Street, to the many its own in providing a vibrant, eclectic
stores selling cosmopolitan home and world-class shopping experience.
DIRECTORY
Shopping Malls Heritage on Macy’s Freeport Outlets
the Garden 450 Washington St. Freeport, Maine.
Boston America 300 Boylston St. Map 4 F1. Tel (207) 865-1212.
Terminal B, Logan Map 4 D2. or (800) 865-1994.
Tel (617) 357-3000.
International Airport, Tel (617) 426-9500. ∑ freeportusa.com
East Boston. Neiman Marcus
∑ theheritageonthe
∑ massport.com 5 Copley Place, 100 Kittery Outlets
garden.com Route 1, Kittery, Maine.
Huntington Ave. Map 3 C3.
CambridgeSide Shops at Prudential Tel (888) 548-8379.
Tel (617) 536-3660.
Galleria Center ∑ thekitteryoutlets.com
100 Cambridgeside Pl., 800 Boylston St. Saks Fifth Avenue
L.L. Bean
Cambridge. Map 3 B3. Prudential Center. Map 3
95 Main St., Freeport,
Tel (617) 621-8666. Tel (800) 746-7778. B3. Tel (617) 262-8500.
Maine. Tel (877) 755-2326.
∑ cambridgeside ∑ prudentialcenter.com ∑ llbean.com
galleria.com Discount and
Department Outlet Stores Wrentham Village
Copley Place Premium Outlets
Stores
100 Huntington Ave. Assembly Row 1 Premium Outlets Blvd,
Map 3 C3. Lord & Taylor 340 Canal St., Somerville. Wrentham.
Tel (617) 262-6600. 760 Boylston St. Map 3 B2. Tel (617) 440-5565. Tel (508) 384-0600.
∑ simon.com Tel (617) 262-6000. ∑ assemblyrow.com ∑ premiumoutlets.com
154 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
and used goods at the Garment Shoes and Accessories Stylish Spanish shoes and
District in Cambridge. Also in Many stores in Boston bags are the specialty at Stuart
Cambridge, Keezer’s Classic specialize in accessories and Weitzman at Copley Place,
Clothing has provided gener- footware. Helen’s Leather on while the adventurous will find
ations of Harvard students with Charles Street is well known more fashionable and unusual
everything from used tuxedos for leather jackets, briefcases, shoes at The Tannery in
to sports jackets and loafers. purses, shoes, and Birkenstock Cambridge. For sports gear, the
Second Time Around, with sandals, as well as its huge large and opulent Niketown
consignment shops in both selection of Western boots. on Newbury Street shows
Cambridge and Boston, offers At Downtown Crossing, Foot video re-runs of sports events
a select array of top-quality, Paths carries a range of shoes while shoppers peruse the
gently worn contemporary from Timberland, Kenneth latest designs in athletic
clothing for women. Cole, Rockport, and others. clothing and footwear.
DIRECTORY
Mixed Fashion New Balance Factory Mint Julep Keezer’s Classic
Outlet 6 Church St., Cambridge. Clothing
Alan Bilzerian 173 Market St., Brighton. Tel (617) 576-6468.
34 Newbury St. 140 River St., Cambridge.
Tel (617) 779-7429. Nomad
Map 4 D2. Tel (617) 547-2455.
Tel (617) 536-1001. Patagonia 1741 Massachusetts Ave.,
Cambridge. Marshalls
346 Newbury St.
AllSaints Spitalfields Tel (617) 497-6677. 350 Washington St.
Map 3 A3.
122 Newbury St. Map 4 F1.
Tel (617) 424-1776. Oona’s
Map 3 C2.
1210 Massachusetts Ave., Tel (617) 338-6205.
Tel (617) 517-0894. Riccardi
Cambridge.
American Apparel 116 Newbury St. Map 3 C2. Tel (617) 491-2654. Second Time Around
47 Brattle St., Cambridge. Tel (617) 266-3158. 176 Newbury St.
Settebello
Tel (617) 661-2770. Urban Outfitters Map 3 B2.
52 Brattle St., Cambridge.
361 Newbury St. Map 3 A3. Tel (617) 864-2440. Tel (617) 247-3504.
Banana Republic
28 Newbury St. Tel (617) 236-0088.
Talbots T.J. Maxx
Map 4 D2. 500 Boylston St. Map 3 C2. 350 Washington St.
Tel (617) 267-3933.
Women’s Fashion
Tel (617) 262-2981. Map 4 F1.
Barney’s New York Ann Taylor Tel (617) 695-2424.
Copley Place. Map 3 C3. 800 Boylston St. Map 3 B3. Men’s Fashion
Tel (617) 385-3300. Tel (617) 421-9097. Andover Shop Shoes and
Burberry Anthropologie 22 Holyoke St., Accessories
2 Newbury St. Map 3 C2. 203 Newbury St. Map 3 B2. Cambridge.
Tel (617) 236-1000. Tel (617) 262-0545. Tel (617) 876-4900. Foot Paths
Brooks Brothers 489 Washington St.
Eastern Mountain Betsy Jenney
46 Newbury St. Map 4 D2. Map 4 F1.
Sports 114 Newbury St. Map 3 C2.
Tel (617) 267-2600. Tel (617) 338-6008.
1 Brattle Sq., Cambridge. Tel (617) 536-2610.
Tel (617) 864-2061. Jos. A. Bank Clothiers Helen’s Leather
Chanel 399 Boylston St. Map 4 D2.
Gap 6 Newbury St. Map 4 D2. 110 Charles St.
Tel (617) 536-5050.
Copley Place. Map 3 C3. Tel (617) 859-0055. Map 1 B3.
Tel (617) 247-1754. J. Press
Clothware Tel (617) 742-2077.
82 Mount Auburn St.,
Giorgio Armani 1773 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge. Niketown
22 Newbury St. Map 3 C2. Cambridge. Tel (617) 547-9886.
Tel (617) 267-3200. 200 Newbury St.
Tel (617) 661-6441.
Polo/Ralph Lauren Map 3 B2.
H&M Kate Spade 93/95 Newbury St. Tel (617) 267-3400.
350 Washington St. 117 Newbury St. Map 3 C2. Map 3 C2.
Map 4 F1. Tel (617) 262-2632. Tel (617) 424-1124. Stuart Weitzman
Tel (617) 482-7081. Copley Place.
100 Newbury St. Map 3 Marimekko Discount and Map 3 C3.
C2. Tel (617) 859-3192. 140 Newbury St. Map 3 C2. Vintage Clothes
Tel (617) 247-2500. Tel (617) 266-8699.
Kit and Ace Garment District
208 Newbury St. Max Mara 200 Broadway, The Tannery
Map 3 B2. 69 Newbury St. Map 3 C2. Cambridge. 39 Brattle St., Cambridge.
Tel (844) 548-6223. Tel (617) 267-9775. Tel (617) 876-5230. Tel (617) 491-1811.
156 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Fine Crafts Cooperative, owned and run by you will not find anywhere else.
Collectors with a more over 250 artists, offers an eclectic On Newbury Street browse the
contemporary bent will find collection of items, ranging from International Poster Gallery, for
several distinguished galleries hand-painted silk jackets to original, vintage posters from
and shops featuring a wide ornaments and larger items. The the 19th and 20th centuries. In
variety of American crafts by both Mudflat Gallery showcases Cambridge, Joie de Vivre has a
local and nationally recognized work in clay by nearly 50 fantastic collection of toys, clocks,
artists. Mobilia in Cambridge members and students. jewelry, jack-in-the-boxes, and
has a national reputation for its much more beside. Next door,
jewelry, ceramics, and other Paper Source carries a selection
objects. The Society of Arts and Gifts of fine handmade papers, gift
Crafts, established in 1897, has In addition to the plethora of wrap, rubber stamps, and other
a shop and gallery, with exhibits souvenir shops that threaten to materials for creative indulgence.
from the 350 artists it represents. drown tourists in tasteless, pre- For quirky, one-of-a-kind trinkets
Works are largely in wood, fiber, dictable merchandise, Boston has and functional gifts, check out
metal, glass, and mixed media. numerous shops specializing in the Beacon Hill and Harvard
The Cambridge Artists’ original and distinctive gifts that Square outlets of Black Ink.
DIRECTORY
Antiques Antiques Markets Eugene Galleries Fine Crafts
and Cooperatives 76 Charles St.
A Room with a Cambridge Artists’
Map 1 B4.
Boston Arts Cooperative
Vieux Antiques Tel (617) 227-3062.
& Antiques 59a Church St.,
361 Boylston St., Brookline. Cambridge. Tel (617) 868-
119 Charles St. Grolier Poetry
Tel (617) 277-2700. 4434.
Map 1 B3. Book Shop
Danish Country Tel (617) 227-9810. Mobilia
6 Plympton St.,
138 Charles St. Map 1 B3. Cambridge Cambridge. 358 Huron Ave.,
Tel (617) 227-1804. Antique Market Cambridge.
Tel (617) 547-4648.
201 Msgr. O’Brien Hwy, Tel (617) 876-2109.
Devonia Antiques Cambridge. Lannan Ship
Mudflat Gallery
for the Table Tel (617) 868-9655. Model Gallery Porter Square Shopping
15 Charles St. 99 High St. Center, 1–37 White St.,
Skinner Inc.
Map 1 B4. Map 2 D5. Cambridge.
63 Park Plaza.
Tel (617) 765-2396. Tel (617) 451-2650. Tel (617) 491-7976.
Map 1 C4.
Tel (617) 350-5400. Million Year Picnic Society of Arts
Easy Chairs
and Crafts
375 Huron Ave., SOWA Vintage 99 Mt. Auburn St.,
175 Newbury St. Map 3 B2.
Cambridge. Market Cambridge.
Tel (617) 266-1810.
460c Harrison Ave. Tel (617) 492-6763.
Tel (617) 491-2131.
Map 3 E4. Gifts
Mohr & McPherson
Marika’s Antiques
Shop
Specialty Dealers 460 Harrison Ave. Black Ink
Map 3 E4. 101 Charles St. Map 1 B3.
130 Charles St. Map 1 B3. Ars Libri Ltd. Tel (866) 497-1221.
Tel (617) 210-4900.
Tel (617) 523-4520. 500 Harrison Ave. 5 Brattle St., Cambridge.
Map 4 E4. Paul A. Duggan Co. Tel (866) 497-1221.
Reside Tel (617) 357-5212. 333 Washington St.,
266 Concord Ave., International Poster
Brattle Book Shop Suite 435.
Cambridge. Gallery
9 West St. Map 1 C4. 205 Newbury St.
Tel (617) 547-2929. Map 1 C4. Tel (617) 742-0221. Map 3 B2.
Twentieth Tel (617) 542-0210. Tel (617) 375-0076.
Schoenhof’s
Century Ltd. The Bromfield Foreign Books Joie de Vivre
73 Charles St. Map 1 B4. Pen Shop 1792 Massachusetts Ave.,
76A Mt. Auburn St.,
5 Bromfield St. Cambridge.
Tel (617) 742-1031. Cambridge.
Map 1 C4. Tel (617) 864-8188.
Upstairs Downstairs Tel (617) 482-9053. Tel (617) 547-8855.
Paper Source
93 Charles St. Bryn Mawr Bookstore Small Pleasures 1810 Massachusetts Ave.,
Map 1 B4. 373 Huron Ave., Cambridge. 142 Newbury St. Map 3 C2. Cambridge.
Tel (617) 367-1950. Tel (617) 661-1770. Tel (617) 267-7371. Tel (617) 497-1077.
158 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT IN
BOSTON
From avant-garde performance art to serious is home of the renowned Boston Symphony
drama, popular dance music to live classical Orchestra. Boston is also well acquainted
performances, Boston offers an outstanding with jazz, folk music, and blues as well as
array of entertainment options, with some- being a center for more contemporary music,
thing to appeal to every taste: the Theater played in big city nightclubs. In summer,
District offers many excellent plays and entertainment often heads outdoors, with
musicals, the Wang Theatre hosts many many open-air plays and concerts, such as
touring productions, and Symphony Hall the famous Boston Pops at the Hatch Shell.
Open-Air and
Free Entertainment
Boston’s best free outdoor summer
entertainment is found at the
Hatch Shell (see p94) on the Charles
River Esplanade. The Boston Pops
(see p160) performs here frequently
during the week around July 4,
and all through July and August
jazz, pop, rock, and classical music
is played. On Friday evenings from
late June to the week before Labor Free open-air music concert outside City Hall
Day, the Hatch Shell also shows
free big-screen family films. courtyard. Most of the annual offers a program of free live
Music is also performed in the concerts and recitals of the New music during summer months,
summer months at the Blue England Conservatory of Music while the Boston Harbor Hotel
Hills Bank Pavilion on the are free, although some require sponsors free weeknight
waterfront, which holds live jazz, advance reservations. Summer in the City films and
pop, and country music concerts. Other open-air entertainment concerts at Rowes Wharf.
City Hall Plaza and Copley Plaza includes a series of free plays Details of all free entertain-
have free concerts at lunchtimes staged on Boston Common by the ment happening in the city are
and in the evenings, and the Commonwealth Shakespeare listed in the Thursday and Friday
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston Company in July and August. editions of The Boston Globe.
(see pp106–9) operates a summer An area that has more unusual
musical concert series in its open-air entertainment is
Harvard Square, famous for Disabled Access
its nightly and weekend Many entertainment venues in
scene of street performers. Boston are wheelchair acces-
Many recording artists paid sible. VSA (Very Special Arts)
their dues here, and other Massachusetts offers a full
hopefuls still flock to the Boston arts access guide. Some
square in the hope of places, such as Jordan Hall, the
being discovered – or Cutler Majestic Theatre, and the
at least of earning the Wheelock Family Theatre, have
cost of dinner. On the listening aids for the hearing
waterfront, the Institute impaired, while the latter also has
Entrance to the Shubert Theatre (see p160) of Contemporary Art signed and described performances.
DIRECTORY
Booking Tickets Tel (617) 728-1600. Museum of Fine Jordan Hall
∑ bluehillsbank Arts, Boston 30 Gainsborough St.
BosTix pavilion.ticketoffices. 465 Huntington Ave.
Faneuil Hall Marketplace. Tel (617) 585-1260.
com Tel (617) 369-3306.
Map 2 D3. ∑ necmusic.edu
Copley Square. Map 3 C2. Boston Harbor Hotel ∑ mfa.org
Tel (617) 482-2849. Rowes Wharf, Boston. VSA (Very Special
∑ bostix.com New England
Map 1 E4. Arts) Massachusetts
Tel (617) 439-7000. Conservatory
Live Nation 89 South St.
Various outlets. ∑ bhh.com of Music
Tel (800) 431-3462. 290 Huntington Ave. Map 4 F2.
Commonwealth
∑ livenation.com Shakespeare Tel (617) 585-1260. Tel (617) 350-7713.
Ticketmaster Company ∑ newengland TTY (617) 350-6385.
Various outlets Parkman Bandstand, conservatory.edu ∑ vsamass.org
Tel (800) 745-3000. Boston Common.
∑ ticketmaster.com Map 1 C4. Disabled Access Wheelock Family
Tel (617) 426-0863. Theatre
Open-Air/Free ∑ commshakes.org Cutler Majestic
200 Riverway,
Entertainment Institute of
Theatre
219 Tremont St. Brookline.
Blue Hills Bank Contemporary Art
Map 4 E2. Tel (617) 879-2300.
Pavilion 100 Northern Ave.
290 Northern Ave., South Map 2 F5. Tel (617) 824-8000. TTY (617) 879-2150.
Boston. Map 2 F5. Tel (617) 478-3100. ∑ cutlermajestic.org ∑ wheelock.edu/wft
160 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
and May at the restored Boston many other visiting dance couples with a shared passion
Opera House (see p85). The companies, who often put for the movies.
annual performances of the on performances at the Serious students of classic
Nutcracker during the Christ- Cutler Majestic Theatre. and international cinema
mas season are a Boston patronize the screening
tradition. The somewhat more programs of the Harvard Film
modest José Mateo Ballet Cinema Archive. The Kendall Square
Theatre has earned a repu- Situated in Harvard Square, Cinema multiplex is the city’s
tation for developing a strong close to Harvard Yard (see chief venue for non-English
and impressive program of pp112–13), the Brattle language films, art films and
repertory choreography. Theatre, one of the very last documentaries. Multiplex
The company performs in repertory movie houses in theaters showing mainstream,
the attractive neo-Gothic Old the Greater Boston area, first-run Hollywood movies are
Cambridge Baptist Church, primarily shows classic films found throughout the Boston
which is situated near Harvard on a big screen. For example, area. Some of the most popular
Square. Modern dance in the Brattle was instrumental and centrally-located options
Boston is represented by in reviving moviegoers’ are the AMC Loews Boston
many small companies, interest in the Humphrey Common, and Regal Fenway
collectives, and independent Bogart, black-and-white classic theaters. Tickets for every kind
choreographers, who often Casablanca. Something of a of movie in Boston are often
perform in the Dance Complex Harvard institution, the Brattle discounted for first shows of the
and Green Street Studios in has long served as a popular day on weekends and all
Cambridge. Boston also hosts “first date” destination for weekday shows before 5pm.
DIRECTORY
Classical Music Theater Shubert Theatre José Mateo
and Opera 265 Tremont St. Ballet Theatre
American Repertory Map 4 E2. 400 Harvard St,
Boston Lyric Opera Theater Tel (617) 482-9393. Cambridge.
Various venues. Loeb Drama Center, 64 ∑ citicenter.org`
Tel (617) 542-6772. Tel (617) 354-7467.
Brattle St., Cambridge.
∑ blo.org Wang Theatre ∑ ballettheatre.org
Tel (617) 547-8300.
270 Tremont St. Map 4 E2.
Boston Symphony ∑ amrep.org
Tel (617) 482-9393. Cinema
Orchestra Boston Center for ∑ citicenter.org
Symphony Hall, 301 the Arts AMC Loews Boston
Massachusetts Ave. Wilbur Theatre
539 Tremont St. Common
Map 3 A4. Tel (617) 266- 246 Tremont St.
Map 4 D3. 175 Tremont St.
1200, (617) 266-1492. Map 4 E2.
Tel (617) 933-8600. Map 4 E2.
∑ bso.org Tel (617) 931-2000.
∑ bostontheater Tel (617) 423-5801.
∑ thewilbur
Celebrity Series scene.com theatre.com ∑ amctheatres.com
Various venues.
Boston Opera House
Tel (617) 482-6661. Dance Brattle Theatre
539 Washington St.
∑ celebrityseries.org 40 Brattle St., Cambridge.
Map 4 E1.
Boston Ballet Tel (617) 876-6837.
Emmanuel Music Tel (617) 931-2787. Various venues.
Emmanuel Church, 15 ∑ broadway ∑ brattlefilm.org
Tel (617) 695-6955.
Newbury St. Map 4 D2. acrossamerica.com Harvard Film Archive
∑ bostonballet.org
Tel (617) 536-3356.
Colonial Theatre 24 Quincy St., Cambridge.
∑ emmanuelmusic.org Cutler Majestic
106 Boylston St. Map 4 E2. Theatre Tel (617) 495-4700.
Handel & Haydn Tel (617) 426-9366. ∑ hcl.harvard.edu/hfa
219 Tremont St. Map 4 E2.
Society ∑ artsemerson.org Tel (617) 824-8000. Kendall Square
Various venues.
Huntington Theatre ∑ cutlermajestic.org
Tel (617) 266-3605. Cinema
∑ handelandhaydn.org 264 Huntington Ave. Dance Complex 1 Kendall Square,
Map 3 B4. 536 Massachusetts Cambridge.
New England Tel (617) 266-0800. Ave., Cambridge. Tel (617) 499-1996.
Conservatory ∑ huntington Tel (617) 547-9363.
of Music ∑ landmark
theatre.org ∑ dancecomplex.org
Jordan Hall, theatres.com
30 Gainsborough St. Lyric Stage Green Street Studios
Map 3 A4. 140 Clarendon St. 185 Green St, Cambridge. Regal Fenway
Tel (617) 585-1260. Map 3 C3. Tel (617) 864-3191. 201 Brookline Ave.
∑ newengland Tel (617) 585-5678. ∑ greenstreet Tel (617) 424-6266.
conservatory.edu ∑ lyricstage.com studios.org ∑ regmovies.com
162 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
DIRECTORY
Rock Music Ryles Jazz Club Nightclubs Kings
212 Hampshire St., and Discos 50 Dalton St.
House of Blues
Cambridge. Map 3 A3.
15 Lansdowne St. Emerald Lounge
Tel (617) 876-9330. Tel (617) 266-2695.
Tel (888) 693-2583. 200 Stuart St. Map 1 B5.
∑ hob.com ∑ rylesjazz.com Mistral
Tel (617) 457-2626.
Middle East Scullers Jazz Club ∑ emeraldnightlife.com 223 Columbus Ave.
472/480 Massachusetts Doubletree Guest Suites, Map 4 D3.
Grand Canal
Ave., Cambridge. 400 Soldiers Field Rd., Tel (617) 867-9300.
Tel (617) 864-3278 ext. 221. 57 Canal St. Map 2 D2.
Brighton. Tel (617) 523-1112. The Phoenix Landing
∑ mideastclub.com
Tel (617) 562-4111. 512 Massachusetts Ave.,
Orpheum Theatre ∑ scullersjazz.com
Royale
Cambridge.
1 Hamilton Pl. Map 1 C4. 279 Tremont St. Map 4 E2.
Tel (617) 576-6260.
Tel (617) 679-0810. Wally’s Cafe Tel (617) 338-7699.
427 Massachusetts Ave.
TD Garden Storyville Gay Bars
Tel (617) 424-1408.
1 Causeway St. Map 1 C2. 90 Exeter St. Map 3 C3. and Clubs
Tel (617) 624-1000. Tel (617) 236-1134.
Folk and World ∑ storyvilleboston.com Club Cafe
∑ tdgarden.com
Music 209 Columbus Ave.
Venu
Jazz and Blues The Center for Arts 100 Warrenton St. Map 3 C3.
Map 4 E2. Tel (617) 536-0966.
Berklee Performance at the Armory
191 Highland Ave., Tel (617) 338-8061. Jacques
Center
Berklee College of Music, Somerville. Whisky Saigon 79 Broadway.
136 Massachusetts Ave. Tel (617) 718-2191. 116 Boylston St. Map 4 F4.
Tel (617) 266-7455. ∑ artsatthearmory.org Tel (617) 482-7799. Tel (617) 426-8902.
∑ berklee.edu/BPC
Club Passim Comedy Clubs
Cantab Lounge Bars
47 Palmer St., Cambridge.
738 Massachusetts Comedy Connection
Tel (617) 492-7679. The Burren
Ave., Cambridge.
∑ clubpassim.org 247 Elm St., Somerville. Wilbur Theatre, 246
Tel (617) 354-2685.
Tel (617) 776-6896. Tremont St.
Multicultural Arts Somerville Theatre Map 4 E2.
The Cask ‘N’ Flagon
Center 55 Davis Square, Tel (617) 931-2000.
62 Brookline Ave.
41 Second St., Cambridge. Somerville. ∑ thewilbur
Tel (617) 536-4840.
Tel (617) 577-1400. Tel (617) 625-4088. theatre.com
∑ multicultural Druid
∑ somervilletheatre.
artscenter.org 1357 Cambridge St., Nick’s Comedy Stop
com
Cambridge. 100 Warrenton St.
Regattabar
World Music Tel (617) 497-0965. Map 4 E2.
Charles Hotel, 1 Bennett
St., Cambridge. Box Office: The Fours Tel (617) 423-2900.
Tel (617) 395-7757. Tel (617) 876-4275. 166 Canal St. Map 1 C2. ∑ nickscomedy
∑ regattabarjazz.com ∑ worldmusic.org Tel (617) 720-4455. stop.com
164 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Winter Sports
Freezing winter weather sees
large groups of heavily clothed
ice skaters heading for the Frog
Pond on Boston Common.
A modest fee is charged for
skating, and skate rental is
available in the pavilion by Frog
Pond, or else a few blocks away
at the Beacon Hill Skate Shop.
Each winter, the Department of
Conservation and Recreation
also opens its many indoor rinks
in Boston and Cambridge to
the public, including Steriti Rink
in the North End, which also
has an indoor bocce court. Enthusiastic ice-skaters take to the frozen Boston Common pond
Most of the best skiing in
New England is found a long Fitness Facilities Fitcorp has excellent, modern
way from Boston, in Vermont, Amenities at most of Boston’s exercise facilities at numerous
Maine, and New Hampshire. large hotels include fitness city locations, while Boston
Closer options include Blue facilities. Those hotels that don’t Athletic Club in Downtown
Hills Ski Area in Canton for have facilities on-site usually has both a well-equipped gym,
downhill skiing, and Middlesex have an arrangement whereby and also a swimming pool,
Fells Reservation in Stoneham guests can use a private club in tennis, and squash courts.
for cross-country. These areas the immediate area. Otherwise, Across the river, Cambridge
depend a lot on the weather, choose from the many other Athletic Club offers various
however, and have only a public gyms and health clubs racquet sports and a
few slopes. found throughout the city. good gym.
DIRECTORY
Water Sports Community Bicycle Winter Sports Fitcorp
Supply 1 Beacon St. Map 1 C4.
Boston Harbor Beacon Hill Tel (617) 248-9797.
Islands National 496 Tremont St. Skate Shop
Map 4 D3. Prudential Center.
Park Area 135 South Charles St.
Map 3 B3.
Tel (617) 223-8666. Tel (617) 542-8623. Map 4 E2.
Tel (617) 262-2050.
∑ bostonharbor ∑ community Tel (617) 482-7400.
islands.org ∑ beaconhill 125 Summer St.
bicycle.com
skateshop.com Map 2 D4.
Charles River Canoe Tel (617) 261-4855.
Urban AdvenTours
& Kayak Center Blue Hills Ski Area
Boston Common. 197 Clarendon St.
Soldiers Field Rd., Allston. Canton, MA 02021.
Map 1 C4. Map 3 C2.
Tel (617) 965-5110. Tel (781) 828-5070.
Tel (617) 933-5090.
∑ ski-paddle.com Tel (617) 670-0637. ∑ ski-bluehills.com
∑ fitcorp.com
Community Boating ∑ urbanadventours.com Middlesex Fells
21 David G. Mugar Way. Reservation Useful Addresses
Map 1 A3. Golf Courses MDC, 4 Woodland Rd.,
Boston Parks and
Tel (617) 523-1038. Stoneham, MA 02180.
Fresh Pond Recreation
∑ community-boating. Tel (781) 662-2340.
Golf Course Department
org ∑ mass.gov/dcr/parks
1010 Massachusetts Ave.
691 Huron Ave.,
Bicycling and Fitness Facilities Tel (617) 635-4505.
Cambridge.
∑ cityofboston.gov/
Skating Tel (617) 349-6282. Boston Athletic Club parks
Back Bay Bicycles ∑ freshpondgolf.com 653 Summer St. Department of
362 Commonwealth Ave. Tel (617) 269-4300. Conservation and
William J. Devine
Map 3 A2. ∑ bostonathletic Recreation
Tel (617) 247-2336. Golf Course at club.com 251 Causeway St.
∑ papa-wheelies.com Franklin Park
Cambridge Tel (617) 626-1250.
1 Circuit Drive, ∑ mass.gov/dcr/parks
City Sports Athletic Club
44 Brattle St., Cambridge. Dorchester. 215 First St., Cambridge.
Tel (617) 492-6000. Tel (617) 265-4084. Tel (617) 491-8989.
∑ citysports.com ∑ cityofbostongolf.com ∑ cambridgefitness.com
166 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Spectator Sports
Bostonians watch sporting events with a passion that is
unmatched in most other U.S. cities. Boston has had a
team in every major professional league for many years,
and some of popular sports’ greatest athletes have played
for home teams. Moreover, such widely known annual
competitions as the Boston Marathon and the Head of
the Charles Regatta draw amazingly large and enthusiastic
crowds, as do the metropolitan area’s many college
teams, which have long traditions and avid fans.
Baseball trophy in 2008. Banners hang Zdeno Chára of the Boston Bruins on the
No matter whether they win or above their home court, the ice at TD Garden
lose, the Boston Red Sox have modern 19,000-seat TD Garden
an emotional following, especially arena, paying testament to this Ice Hockey
when the New York Yankees come record. Even when not playing to Six Stanley Cup wins make the
to town. The Red Sox’s beloved their full potential, the Celtics Boston Bruins one of the most
Fenway Park stadium is the oldest draw big crowds, hoping to see successful teams in National
in the country, and is famous for the team rekindle past glories. Hockey League (NHL) history,
its enormous 37-ft (11-m) left-field Tickets are usually available for although their form has been
wall known as the “Green Monster.” most games, although they can changeable. The hockey season
The small seating capacity, be pricey – good seats cost at runs from September to April,
however, means that tickets can least $50. The season runs from with the hard-charging “B’s”
be difficult to obtain for the bigger October to April. playing in the NHL’s Eastern
games. Tickets are sold at the gate Conference. End-of-season
on the day of the playoff games are often sold
game and are also American Football out well in advance, but for
available from the The home football team, the other games, tickets are usually
Fenway Park New England Patriots, once available for between $10 and
hotline. The dominated the sport, and won $175. Games are played at
“Bosox” are in the the game’s biggest prize in TD Garden.
Eastern Division 2002, 2004, 2005, and 2014.
of the American They play against their National
League, one of the Football League (NFL) opponents Other Sports
country’s two in Gillette Stadium, about an Boston’s major-league
major pro- hour’s drive southwest of professional soccer team, the
fessional downtown Boston. Most NFL New England Revolution, plays
leagues. games are played during the all of its home games at Gillette
Red Sox hitter The fall on Sundays, or sometimes Stadium after the New England
David Ortiz baseball on Monday evenings to attract Patriots have finished their
season runs a national television audience. season. The soccer season runs
from early April to the end of Tickets sell out a long way in from March through to October,
September, with championship advance, so the chances of and the game is slowly gaining
games in October. In 2004, picking one up are remote. more widespread support, due
Boston ended a long drought to
win the World Series in dramatic,
come-from-behind fashion, and
they won again in 2007 and 2013.
Basketball
One of the sport’s marquee
teams, the Boston Celtics have
been the most successful of all
of Boston’s major-league sports
teams. They were the dominant
team during the 1960s and 80s,
winning 16 National Basketball
Association (NBA) championships
before accomplishing a 17th Horses leaving the gates at Suffolk Downs racetrack
SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 167
DIRECTORY
Baseball American Other Sports New England
Football Boston Cannons
Revolution
Boston Red Sox Gillette Stadium
Fenway Park, New England Patriots Harvard Stadium, (see New England
65 N Harvard St., Allston. Patriots).
4 Yawkey Way. Gillette Stadium,
Tel (617) 746-9933. ∑ revolutionsoccer.net
Tel (617) 267-1700. Route 1, Foxboro.
∑ redsox.com Tel (617) 931-2222 Boston Lobsters Suffolk Downs
Tel (877) 617-5627. Route 1a, East Boston.
(Ticketmaster).
Basketball ∑ bostonlobsters.net Tel (617) 567-3900.
∑ ticketmaster.com
Boston Marathon ∑ suffolkdowns.com
Boston Celtics ∑ patriots.com
Boston Athletic
TD Garden, Ice Hockey Association.
1 Causeway St. Tel (617) 236-1652.
Map 1 C2. Boston Bruins ∑ bostonmarathon.org
Tel (617) 931-2222 TD Garden Head of the
(Ticketmaster). (see Boston Celtics). Charles Regatta
∑ celtics.com ∑ bostonbruins.com ∑ hocr.org
168 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
CHILDREN’S BOSTON
First-time visitors to Boston may wonder Freedom Trail, or visit Franklin Park Zoo,
what this city, famous for its history and families will soon discover that Boston’s
learning, has to offer families with children. unique heritage has as much to interest
The answer is more than can possibly be children as it does adults. A good starting
explored in one visit, with an enormous point is the Prudential Center Skywalk
variety of children’s attractions and (see p100), a 360-degree observatory from
entertainment, as well as many helpful where children can locate the city’s major
services and facilities. Whether you begin landmarks, parks, and attractions. For parents
your adventure at Boston’s acclaimed hoping to find some time on their own, a
Children’s Museum, head out to sea on a few attractions have supervised children’s
whale-watching expedition, take a specially activities and entertainment, and there are
designed children’s walking tour of The also various baby-sitting agencies.
Capybara, one of the many fascinating animals at Franklin Park Zoo Children’s Theater
Children’s theater thrives
Aquariums, with its collection of native and in Boston. The Boston
Zoos, and Parks exotic fauna. Don’t miss the Children’s Theatre celebrated
Visitors are greeted by a group colorful Tropical Forest, the its 50th season in 2000, with
of harbor seals at the entrance Giraffe and Zebra Savannah, its acclaimed “live theater for
to the New England Aquarium Bird’s World, and the majestic children by children.” Mainstage
(see pp78–9), but once inside, African lions in the productions run from
all eyes are transfixed by the Kalahari Kingdom. December through April, and
huge 200,000 gallon (900,000 No visit to the city its Stagemobile takes
liter) saltwater tank, which is complete without performances outside
teems with tropical fish, sharks, a gentle ride on the to Boston’s parks in
sea turtles, and even the famous Swan Boats the summer. The
occasional scuba diver. The (see p48) in the city’s Wheelock Family
gently inclined wheelchair- Public Garden. The Theatre, another
friendly ramp winds up and pedal-propelled highly acclaimed
around the three-story boats gently glide company, uses
cylindrical tank, giving a fas- across a lovely lagoon multi-ethnic and
cinating view of this simulated as ducks clamor inter-generational
marine environment. Young alongside for a snack. casting, with
children will also enjoy getting Nearby are large performances on
their hands wet in the shark and bronze sculptures Bronze duck sculpture, most weekends
ray touch tank and watching of Mrs. Mallard and Public Garden from September to
the penguins and the harbor family, immortalized May. Fables and fairy
seals. Families can take a whale- in Robert McCloskey’s 1941 tales come to life at the Puppet
watching cruise or just watch a children’s classic Make Way for Showplace Theater, with
film on the enormous screen in Ducklings (see p48). Crossing shows for pre-schoolers on
the IMAX Theatre. Animal lovers Charles Street, visitors will come Wednesday, and performances
will want to head directly to to Boston Common (see pp48– for families on weekends from
Franklin Park Zoo (see p104), 9), which separates Downtown September to May.
DIRECTORY
Children’s Theater Children’s Henry Bear’s Park Eating Out
Shopping 17 White St., Cambridge. with Children
Boston Children’s Tel (617) 5478424.
Theatre Baby Gap The Cheesecake
316 Columbus Ave. Copley Place, 100 Newbury Comics
Huntington Ave. Factory
Map 3 C3. Map 3 C3. 332 Newbury St. 100 Cambridgeside
Tel (617) 4246634. Tel (617) 2471754. Map 3 A3.
Place, Cambridge.
∑ bostonchildrens Tel (617) 2364930.
Boing! JP’s Toy Shop Tel (617) 2523810.
theatre.org 667 Centre St., Patagonia
Puppet Showplace Jamaica Plain. China Pearl
346 Newbury St.
Tel (617) 5227800. 9 Tyler St.
Theater Map 3 A3.
32–33 Station St., Children’s Book Shop Map 4 F2.
Tel (617) 4241776.
Brookline. 237 Washington St., Tel (617) 4264338.
Brookline. Stellabella Toys
Tel (617) 7316400.
Tel (617) 7347323. 1360 Cambridge St., Full Moon
∑ puppetshow
The Curious George Cambridge. 344 Huron Ave.,
place.org
Store Tel (617) 4916290. Cambridge.
Wheelock 1 JFK St., Cambridge. Tel (617) 3546699.
Family Theatre Tel (617) 4980062. Susi’s Gallery
200 The Riverway, Games People Play for Children Pizzeria Regina
Brookline. 1100 Massachusetts Ave., 348 Huron Ave., 11½ Thatcher St.
Tel (617) 8792300. Cambridge. Cambridge. Map 2 D2.
∑ wheelock.edu/wft Tel (617) 4920711. Tel (617) 8767874. Tel (617) 2270765.
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
More than most American cities, Boston is international travelers, making it very easy
built to human scale. With the main parts to feel at home here and comfortable
of the city all within a relatively small area, exploring. So long as visitors take a few
Boston is ideal for the visitor, with walking sensible precautions, they should enjoy a
not only possible, but often preferable, trouble-free stay. Boston’s visitor information
despite an efficient transit system. Boston centers help people get the most from their
is also one of the safest major cities in the stay, and the city also deals better than most
U.S., and one of the most welcoming to with the needs of children and the disabled.
Visas and Passports Tourist Information and except groceries and clothing
Citizens of the U.K., most western Opening Hours items priced under $175. State
European countries, Australia, Visitor information desks at the sales tax is 6.25 per cent, and
New Zealand, Japan, Canada, airport can provide guides and hotel tax in the Boston metrop-
Mexico, and Caribbean nations maps and answer questions. The olitan area is 14.45 per cent.
(except Cuba) need a valid, Greater Boston Convention Tipping is expected for
machine-readable passport and and Visitors Bureau offers a most services: in restaurants
must register (and pay a small comprehensive online guide tip 15–20 per cent of the bill,
charge) before traveling with for lodging, with links to make and give $1 per bag to
the Electronic System for Travel reservations. Major hotels also porters and $2 to valet parking
Authorization (ESTA) at esta.cbp. have helpful guest service desks. attendants. Bartenders
dhs.gov. The ESTA authorization All of these places also hold a expect $1–2 per drink.
is for a maximum stay of 90 days range of discount tickets for many
in the U.S. and remains valid for of Boston’s major museums and
two years. Foreign visitors should attractions, nightlife spots, Alcohol and Smoking
check with their American theaters, and restaurants. The legal minimum age for
consulate for details about Opening hours vary greatly, drinking alcohol in Boston is
passport and visa procedures. so check in advance. In general, 21; most young people will
Citizens of all other countries most shops and attractions are be required to show photo
need a valid passport and a open 10am–6pm daily, with identification (I.D.) as proof
tourist visa, which can be reduced hours on Sundays. of age in order to get into bars
obtained from a U.S. consulate Many shops stay open later on and to purchase alcohol. It is
or embassy. Thursdays, while key attractions, illegal to drink in public spaces,
like the Museum of Fine Arts and penalties for driving under
(see p106–7), offer extended the influence of alcohol are
Travel Safety hours one night a week. severe. The legal age for
Visitors can get up-to-date travel buying cigarettes is 21, and
safety information from the I.D. may also be required. It is
Foreign and Commonwealth Tax and Tipping illegal to smoke in public
Office in the U.K., the State In Boston and the surrounding buildings and in all bars and
Department in the U.S. and area, taxes will be added to restaurants (see p139).
the Department of Foreign hotel and restaurant charges
Affairs and Trade in Australia. and most retail purchases,
Travelers with
Special Needs
Massachusetts and U.S. law
mandate accessibility for
persons with handicaps, but
wheelchair accessibility is
sometimes limited in Boston’s
historic buildings. Most hotels
and restaurants, however,
are wheelchair accessible.
VSA (Very Special Arts)
Massachusetts provides useful
information on disabled-
accessible entertainment.
For other information, contact
the Society for Accessible
Visitor Information Center on Boston Common Travel and Hospitality.
Exterior view of the busy South Station complex in Boston
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 175
DIRECTORY
Emergencies Consulates United Kingdom 35 White St., Cambridge.
1 Memorial Drive, Tel (617) 876-5519.
American Express Australia (Open 24 hours.)
Cambridge.
Tel (212) 758-6510. 150 East 42nd St., 34th
Tel (617) 245-4500. Massachusetts
∑ americanexpress.com floor, New York, NY 10017.
∑ gov.uk/government/ General Hospital
Tel (212) 351-6500.
Dental Referrals world/organisations/ 50 Blossom St.
∑ australianyc.org
Tel (800) 342-8747. british-consulate- Map 1 B3.
∑ massdental.org Canada general-boston Tel (617) 726-2000.
3 Copley Place. Map 3 C3. ∑ massgeneral.org
Medical Referrals
Tel (781) 893-4610 or
Tel (617) 262-3760. Hospitals and
∑ boston.gc.ca Pharmacies MGH International
(800) 322-2303. Patient Center
Police, Fire, Medical Ireland Children’s Hospital 55 Fruit St., Blake 180.
(all emergencies) 535 Boylston St. Map 1 B3.
Boston
Tel 911 (toll-free). Map 3 C2. Tel (617) 726-2787.
300 Longwood Ave.
Tel (617) 267-9330. ∑ massgeneral.org/
Tel (617) 355-6000.
Lost Property ∑ dfa.ie/irish- international
consulate/boston ∑ childrenshospital.org
Police Non- Tufts University
Emergency Line New Zealand CVS Pharmacy School of Dental
Tel Boston 37 Observatory Circle, NW 587 Boylston St. Map 3 C2. Medicine
(617) 343-4200. Washington, DC 20008. Tel (617) 437-8414. 1 Kneeland St. Map 4 F2.
Tel Cambridge Tel (202) 328-4800. (Store and pharmacy Tel (617) 636-6828.
(617) 349-3300. ∑ nzembassy.com open 24 hours.) ∑ dental.tufts.edu
178 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Arriving in Boston is fairly easy. The city is South Station, as do bus carriers. From here,
served by Logan International Airport as well the subway, known as the “T,” connects to
as by the smaller satellites in Manchester, NH, almost every part of the city. Boston also
and near Providence, RI, which are both makes an ideal base from which to take day or
located within 50 miles (80 km) of the city weekend trips to the numerous places of
center. Amtrak trains come into Boston’s interest throughout the New England area.
Arriving by Air
Situated in East Boston, Logan
International Airport is the
major airport serving Boston
and the surrounding area,
although some international
charter flights and several
domestic carriers use the
smaller and less crowded
Manchester New Hampshire
Airport and T.F. Green Airport
in Warwick, Rhode Island. Both
are a bus ride of around an
hour from Boston.
Boston is served by almost
all North American airlines and
by most international airlines,
either directly or in partnership Control Tower at Boston’s Logan International Airport
with U.S. carriers. Often the
least expensive flights, espe take 30 minutes or more, with Airfares
cially between continental much of the trip spent in For cheap air fares, search
Europe and Boston, require bumpertobumper traffic. online on websites such as
making a connection in New The least expensive means www.lastminute.com and www.
York. There are frequent non of getting from the airport expedia.com. The more you shop
stop flights available between to downtown Boston is via around, the better deal you will
Boston and the United the M.B.T.A. subway (see get, and it is worth taking the
Kingdom and Ireland on U.S. pp182–3) on the Silver Line time to do some research. For
carriers, as well as British to South Station. This takes inexpensive consolidated tickets,
Airways and Aer Lingus. 18–25 minutes. There are contact Kayak.com online or
Logan International lies also bus services that run give AirlineConsolidator.com
within Boston city limits on between the airport and a try. The easiest way to find the
a peninsula across the inner Boston’s suburbs. Arguably the best fare is to use the website
harbor from the central city. most scenic approach into CheapTickets.com.
Harbor tunnel crossings tend to Boston is the Boston Water High season runs from June to
act as a bottleneck, which slows Taxi, with stops at Logan August, as well as around Easter
taxi services between the air Airport, and Central and Long and Christmas, when flights are
port and downtown. At busy wharves. The journey takes at their most expensive. Travelers
times, a taxi ride ($20–30) can about 20–25 minutes. should also be aware of price
hikes when scheduling a visit
around large events like the
Boston Marathon (see p36) and
university commencement
ceremonies. May, September,
and October are generally less
expensive, and any other time
of the year is considered off
peak. Flights are usually least
expensive for travel from Tuesday
to Thursday. APEX tickets, usually
the best deal, must be booked a
few weeks in advance. However,
note that these tickets must
City Water Taxi, running from Logan Airport to Central and Long wharves include a Saturday night.
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 181
Package Deals
DIRECTORY
Boston packages are some-
times available in the U.S. as Arriving by Air
part of a fall foliage bus tour Boston Water Taxi
or through the AAA (American Tel (617) 227-4320.
Automobile Association; ∑ bostonharborcruises.com
see p185). Several airlines
arrange packages including Logan International Airport
travel and lodging. Boston Amtrak train waiting to depart from East Boston, Massachusetts.
Tel (617) 561-1800 or (800)
hotels generally post their Boston’s South Station
23-LOGAN.
special event packages on
∑ massport.com/logan
the website of the Greater Station. A high-speed service
Boston Convention and that takes 3 hours is also avail- Manchester New
Visitors Bureau (see p175). able but is more expensive. Hampshire Airport
The Amtrak service extends Tel (603) 624-6556.
north to Maine and south to ∑ flymanchester.com
Arriving by Car Philadelphia, Washington, D.C., T.F. Green Airport
Boston is not called “The Hub” and beyond. Warwick, Rhode Island.
for nothing, as most routes in Tel (401) 737-8222.
the northeast converge here. ∑ pvdairport.com
The principal routes from the Arriving by Bus
north are I-95 from the coast Although taking a bus is Airfares
and I-93 from northern New easily the slowest and usually
AirlineConsolidator.com
England. I-90 comes in from cheapest way to get to Boston, Tel (888) 468-5385.
the west as the Massachusetts it need not be unpleasant. ∑ airlineconsolidator.com
Turnpike. I-93 approaches Greyhound Bus Lines and Peter
from the south as Pan Trailways both serve CheapTickets.com
the Southeast the city of Boston Tel (312) 260-8100.
Expressway, while as long-distance ∑ cheaptickets.com
I-95, formerly carriers, sharing Kayak.com
known as Rte Greyhound Bus quarters at the South Tel (855) 529-2501.
128, circumvents Lines logo Station bus terminal. ∑ kayak.com
Boston. Exits from the Both offer routes
roadway to parts of downtown around the country and pro- Arriving by Train
come up quickly, so check vide discounts for children, Amtrak
your exit number in advance. senior citizens, and U.S. military South Station, 700 Atlantic Ave.
personnel on active duty. Both Map 2 D5.
also offer bargain excursion Tel (800) 872-7245.
Arriving by Train tickets for unlimited travel ∑ amtrak.com
A train service between New within a certain time period
York and Boston via coastal for a single fixed rate. Arriving by Bus
Connecticut and Rhode Island Discount carriers include
is provided by Amtrak. Con- the modern BoltBus and BoltBus
South Station, 700 Atlantic Ave.
ventional train services take MegaBus, as well as several
Map 2 D5.
4–5 hours, and arrive at and no-frills companies that depart
Tel (877) 265-8287.
depart from Boston’s South from Boston’s Chinatown. ∑ boltbus.com
MegaBus
South Station, 700 Atlantic Ave.
Map 2 D5.
Tel (877) 462-6342.
∑ megabus.com
Getting Around Boston There are five lines: the Red Line
runs from south of the city to
Public transportation in Boston and Cambridge is very Cambridge, and the Green Line
good. In fact, it is considerably easier to get around by public from the Museum of Science
transportation than by driving, with the added benefit of not westward into the suburbs.
The Blue Line begins near
having to find a parking space. All major attractions in the city Government Center and goes to
are accessible on the subway, by bus, or by taxi. The central Logan Airport and on to Revere,
sections of the city are also extremely easy to navigate on foot. while the Orange Line links the
northern suburbs to southwest
Boston. The Silver Line, a surface
bus, runs from Roxbury to Logan
Airport via South Station. Maps
of the system are available at
the Downtown Crossing
M.B.T.A. station.
Admission to subway stations is
M.B.T.A. commuter bus, with distinctive yellow paintwork via turnstiles into which you insert
a paper Charlie ticket or touch
Green Travel websites for Boston Magazine your plastic CharlieCard on the
Boston’s moniker of “America’s and The Boston Globe (see p158). reader. Day or week LinkPasses
Walking City” hints at how Most of Boston is laid out for unlimited travel can be
easy it is to tour the city in this “organically” rather than in the purchased at stations and Airport
environmentally friendly way. sort of strict grid found in many “T” stops, and can be loaded on
Those needing to cover some American cities. When trying to to Charlie tickets or CharlieCards.
serious ground can lean on orient yourself, it helps to think
one of the U.S.’s oldest public of Boston as enclaves of neigh
transportation systems. The borhoods around a few central M.B.T.A. Buses
M.B.T.A. has worked with the squares. In general, uphill from The bus system complements
Environmental Protection Boston Common is Beacon Hill, the subway system and in effect
Agency on projects like loco downhill is Downtown. Back Bay enlarges the entire transit
motive engine pollutioncontrol begins west of Arlington Street. network to cover more than
devices, while replacing its The North End sticks out from the 1,000 miles (1,600 km). However,
dieselpowered bus fleet with north side of Boston, while the buses are often crowded. The
natural gaspowered buses. Waterfront is literally that, where Your Bus M.B.T.A. app shows real
Visitors can reach almost any Boston meets the sea. time schedules linked to location.
where in the metro area – from Two useful routes for sightseeing
the historic towns of Lexington are Charlestown–Haymarket,
and Concord to the Boston M.B.T.A. Subway and (from Haymarket, near Quincy
Harbor Islands – using public Trolley Cars Market, to Bunker Hill) and
transportation. The Boston “T”’s Boston’s subway system is the Harvard–Dudley (from Harvard
own website offers public transit oldest in North America, but it Square via Massachusetts
and walking has been vastly Avenue, through Back Bay and
directions to just expanded and the South End, to Dudley Square
about anywhere modernized in Roxbury). Cash, a Charlie
in the city. The since the first ticket, or a plastic CharlieCard
17mile (27km) cars rolled is required for the fare.
Esplanade trail between Park
along the Street and
Charles River Boylston Street Walking in Boston
(where you can Charlie Card, valid on Boston’s in 1897. The Boston is considered North
rent canoes and public transit network street trolley America’s premier walking
kayaks) and the system began city – partly because it is so
Minuteman Bikeway (see p164) in 1846 with trolleys drawn compact, and partly because
offer ample oppor tunities for along tracks by horses. In 1889, virtually all streets are flanked
bikers, joggers, and walkers. the system was electrified. by sidewalks. It is nonetheless
Combined, the subway and essential to wear comfortable
trolley lines are known as the walking shoes with adequate
Finding Your Way “T.” The “T” operates 5–12:45am cushioning and good support.
The Greater Boston Convention Monday through Saturday, Because Boston is principally
and Visitors Bureau (see p175) and 6–12:45am Sunday. Week a city of neighborhoods, it is
provides a helpful contact point. day service is officially every often simplest to use public
To find out about any upcoming 3–15 minutes; on weekends transportation to get to a
cultural events, check the it is less frequent. particular neighborhood,
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 183
and then to walk to soak up the company and arrange a pickup called HubWay (www.the
atmosphere. Walking also allows time and place. hubway.com). Cycling on the
you to see parts of the city that Rates are calculated by both highways is illegal, city streets
are impractical to explore by mileage and time, starting with a can be hazardous, and cycling
car because the streets are too standard “pickup” fee (around $3) on sidewalks is discouraged.
narrow – for example, Beacon when the meter starts running. Cycling is a fun way to see some
Hill, parts of the North End, Taxis in Boston and Cambridge of the outlying sights. Cycle
and Harvard Square. are generally more expensive shops and some newsstands
than in other U.S. cities. Taxis to carry the Boston Bike Map,
Logan International charge an which details trails and paths
airport-use fee (around $3), while across the metropolitan region.
those coming from Logan charge For more on cycling, see p164.
for the harbor tunnel toll (around
$7). Additional surcharges may
apply late at night. A full Guided Tours
schedule of fares should be Many city tours, including Old
posted inside the vehicle, along Town Trolley Tours and theme
with the driver’s photograph tours (such as “ghosts” or
and permit, the taxi’s permit “chocolate”), depart from the
Boston parkland, ideal for walking number, and directions for Visitor Information Center on
reporting complaints. Uber Boston Common. The Boston
Taxis coverage is very thorough in Duck Tours use an open-air
Taxis can be found at taxi stands Boston and Cambridge. amphibious vehicle that tours the
in tourist areas or be hailed on streets and navigates the Charles
the street. They may pick up fares River. Also, National Park Service
only in the city for which they Cycling rangers offer free walking tours of
are licensed – Cambridge taxis in Boston and Cambridge have Boston’s parks, the Freedom Trail
Cambridge, and Boston taxis in an extensive network of bike (see pp126–9), and the Black
Boston. It is possible to call a taxi paths, plus a bike rental system Heritage Trail (see p51).
Car Rental the city with destinations from all over the world to see
You must be at least 21-years farther out, including historic breathtaking foliage. Again,
old with a valid driving license Salem and Gloucester, as well to see this region, a car is
(plus an international driver’s as the scenic waterfronts and necessary. Except in the very
license if from outside the U.S.) beaches of Newburyport and high season, traffic and parking
to rent a car. Drivers under 25 Cohasset. The commuter boat aren’t much of a problem
may be charged additional system also ferries passengers for these getaways.
fees. All rental agencies require from the city’s waterfront to Amtrak (see p181) provides
a credit card or a cash deposit. various stops along the South a scenic, albeit slower and
Collision and liability insurances Shore. Consider renting a bike usually more expensive, option
are recommended, but they (which you can bring along on when it comes to escaping
are sometimes offered free the bus, boat, or train) to north – the Downeaster service
with credit cards. Return the explore the historic sites and travels along Maine’s rugged
car with a full tank of gas to battlefields in Concord (see coastline up to inviting
avoid inflated agency fuel pp118–20) and Lexington (see Brunswick, and south to Rhode
prices. Save paying airport fees p121), or the area’s scenic Island and Connecticut.
by picking up and dropping coastline. Several bike shops
off your car downtown. offer daily rentals, and there
are a few companies, such
as Urban AdvenTours, that
Getting Out of Boston offer guided bike tours.
Boston holds enough treasures Many visitors to the Boston
to satisfy even the most finicky area also take advantage of
of tourists, but any visitor would seasonal excursions. For the
be wise to escape the city in summer, Cape Cod and its
order to appreciate the area’s islands (Martha’s Vineyard and
historical sites, stunning natural Nantucket), not to mention
beauty, and world-class dining Rhode Island’s stunning
and entertainment options. coastline, are within a 2-hour
Fortunately, most of this can be journey from the city. It’s
achieved without the use of a possible to reach these
car, as public transportation destinations by plane, bus, or
options abound. Cambridge boat, but visitors will have an
(see pp110–16) and Charlestown easier time using a rental car.
(see p117) are easily accessible When fall arrives, the areas
using the M.B.T.A.’s subway north of the city – extending up
and bus lines, and the M.B.T.A. into Vermont, New Hampshire, The picturesque, peaceful marina at
commuter rail service links and Maine – lure leaf-peepers Newburyport
DIRECTORY
Green Travel Uber Breakdowns Dollar
∑ uber.com Tel (800) 800-4000.
Charles River Canoe American ∑ dollar.com
& Kayak Yellow Cab Automobile
Kendall Sq., Cambridge. Cambridge. Enterprise
Association (AAA)
Tel (617) 492-0941. Tel (617) 547-3000. Tel (800) 736-8222.
125 High St., Boston. ∑ enterprise.com
∑ paddleboston.com
Guided Tours Tel (800) 222-4357 or
M.B.T.A. (617) 443-9300. Hertz
10 Park Plaza. Boston Duck Tours Tel (800) 654-3131.
∑ AAA.com
Tel (617) 222-3200. Prudential Center. ∑ hertz.com
∑ mbta.com Map 3 B3. Car Rental Thrifty Car Rental
Tel (617) 267-3825. Tel (800) 847-4389.
Taxis ∑ ducktours.com Alamo ∑ thrifty.com
National Park Service Tel (877) 222-9075.
Boston Cab
Tel (617) 242-5642. ∑ alamo.com Getting Out
Dispatch, Inc.
∑ nps.gov/bost of Boston
Tel (617) 262-2227. Avis
Old Town Tel (800) 331-1212. Urban AdvenTours
Checker Cab Co.
Trolley Tours ∑ avis.com 103 Atlantic Ave.
of Cambridge
Boston Common Visitors’ Map 2 E3.
Tel (617) 497-9000. Budget
Center. Map 1 C4. Tel (617) 670-0637.
Town Taxi Tel (617) 269-7010. Tel (800) 527-0700. ∑ urbanadven
Tel (617) 536-5000. ∑ trolleytours.com ∑ budget.com tours.com
186 boston street finder
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Place of interest
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W I D ET
W I D ET
FO O D MA
FO O D MA
E
E
U
U
LE LE
ST
ST
OL
OL
Y Y
EN
RE
RE
N N
RC
RC
ET
ET
ON
ON
A A
V
V
CI
CI
EA EA
T CIRC
T CIRC
LB LB
A
A
TT
TT
ST ST
YA
YA
RT R OA
RT R OA
RU RU
WIDE
WIDE
A A
N
TL TL
O
LE
A A
VE
VE
E
N N
D D
ST ST
.
.
D
RE RE
ET ET
192 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold American football 166, Back Bay and South End
refer to main entries 167 (cont.)
American Meteorological architecture 35
A Society 47 area map 91
Aalto, Alvar 111 American Revolution 22–3 Back Bay: Street-by-
Abbey, Edward 98–9 Boston Tea Party 77 Street map 92–3
Abiel Smith School 51 Concord 118–19 hotels 134–7
Abolition movement, Copp’s Hill Burying restaurants 146–8
slavery 25 Ground 72 Trinity Church 96–7
Academy of Music 89 Dorchester Heights Back Bay Fens 10, 105
Accessories shops 155 Monument 124 Baez, Joan 110
Accommodation 132–7 Freedom Trail walk Ball, Thomas 48
Adams, Abigail Smith 24 126–9 Ballet 38, 160–61
Adams, John 24, 33 Harvard Yard 112 Banking 178
Adams, John Quincy 24, Lexington 121 Banner, Peter 50
33 Liberty Tree 85 Bars 151, 162–3
Adams, Samuel Old North Church 23, 73 alcohol laws 138, 139,
Boston Tea Party 61, 77 American Unitarian 174
Faneuil Hall 65 Association 24 gay clubs and bars 163
grave 50 Andros, Sir Edmund 20, 21 opening hours 138
Massachusetts State Angell, George Thorndike tipping in 174
House 52 66–7 Bartholdi, Auguste 94
Paul Revere’s ride 23, 121 Annual Festival Betances Baseball 12, 27, 36, 166,
“Sons of Liberty” 22, 32 37 167
statue of 65 Annual Lantern Festival 36 Baselitz, Georg 115
Aeolian-Skinner Company Antiques Basketball 38, 166, 167
100 Ellis Memorial Antiques Bastille Day 37
African American Show 38 Bates, Katharine Lee 50
community shops 156, 157 “Battle Hymn of the
Abiel Smith School 51 Aquarium, New England Republic” 32, 61
authors 33 31, 78–9 Battles
Battle of Fort Wagner 25 children’s Boston 170 Bunker Hill (1775) 18, 22,
Black Heritage Trail 51 Great days in Boston 11, 129
Museum of African 12, 13 Fort Sumter (1861) 25
American History 51 Arboretum, Arnold 36, Fort Wagner (1861) 25
“New Guinea” 128 104–5 Lexington and Concord
“Underground Railroad” Architecture 34–5 (1775) 23, 118
25, 51 Area codes, telephones Saratoga (1777) 23
African Meeting House 25, 179 Bauhaus 35, 115
51 Arnold Arboretum 36, Bay Village 87
Agassiz, Louis 116 104–5 Beaches 164
Air travel 180, 181 Art see Museums and Carson Beach 124
Alcohol laws 138, 139, 174 galleries L Street Beach 124
Alcott, Bronson 120 Art Deco architecture 35 M Street Beach 124
Alcott, Louisa May 33 Arthur M. Sackler Museum “Sugar Bowl” beach 125
grave 120 (Cambridge) 114, 115 Beacon Hill and West End
Orchard House Arts and crafts see Crafts 12, 13, 43–55
(Concord) 120 Arts First (Cambridge) 36 architecture 28, 34
The Wayside (Concord) ATMs (cash machines) 178 area map 43
120 August Moon Festival 37 Black Heritage Trail 51
Algonquin tribe 19 Autumn in Boston 38 Boston Common and
Along the Battle Road Public Garden 13, 36,
(Rush) 118 B 48–9
Ambulances 176, 177 Baby-sitting services 168 Hidden Gardens of
American Federation of Back Bay and South End Beacon Hill 36
Labor (A.F.L.) 26 91–101 hotels 134–7
GENERAL INDEX 193
Beacon Hill and West End Boats and ships Boston Marathon (cont.)
(cont.) Boston Tea Party Ships terrorist attack 27
Massachusetts State and Museum 76–7 Boston Massacre (1770)
House 52–3 Charlestown Navy Yard 22, 63, 77
restaurants 142–3 13, 117, 129 Freedom Trail walk 127
Street-by-Street map Dragon Boat Festival 37 reenactment of 36
44–5 Hart Nautical Gallery 111 Boston Open Studios 38
Beacon Street 47 Head of the Charles Boston Opera House 85
Street-by-Street map 45 Regatta 38 Street-by-Street map 82
Beanpot Tournament 39 Long Wharf 76 Boston Police Strike (1919)
Beckmann, Max 115 rowing 167 26
Bed and breakfast (B&B) Swan Boats 49 Boston Pops Orchestra 36
133, 135–6 U.S.S. Constitution 13, Fourth of July Concert
Bell, Alexander Graham 33, 117, 129 and Fireworks 37, 94
67 water sports 164, 165 Boston Pride 37
Benjamin, Asher 34 Whale Watch 78 Boston Public Library 90,
African Meeting House 51 Bogart, Humphrey 88 98–9
Charles Street Meeting Bolt, Beranek and architecture 34
House 46 Newman 33 history 24, 25
Old West Church 54 Bond, Charles 88 Street-by-Street map 92
William Hickling Prescott Bookshops 156, 157 Boston Public Market 65
House 47 Boston International Boston Red Sox 27, 36
Benjamin Thompson & Antiquarian Book Fair 38 “Boston School” of artists
Associates 66 Brattle Book Shop 82, 85 108
La Berceuse (Van Gogh) Booth, John Wilkes 60 Boston Symphony
108 Boston Athenaeum 24, 51 Orchestra 11, 38
Berenson, Bernard 105 Boston Ballet Company 38, history 26, 32
Bergman, Ingrid 88 101 Boston Tea Party (1773) 22,
Berklee BeanTown Jazz Boston Brahmins 24, 25, 77
Festival 38 32, 47 Boston Tea Party Ships
Berklee Performance Boston Bruins 38 and Museum 76–7
Center 99 Boston Caribbean Carnival Liberty Tree 85
Berlin, Irving 86 37 Old South Meeting
Bernhardt, Sarah 88 Boston Center for the Arts House 10, 61
Bernini, Gian Lorenzo 101 reenactment of 39
clay models 114, 115 Boston City Hall 64 Boston University 26
Beuys, Joseph 115 Boston Common and Boston Wine Expo 39
Bicycling 164, 165, 183 Public Garden 36, 48–9 Boylston Street 98
The Big Dig 27, 65 Freedom Trail 126 Great days in Boston 10,
The Big Sail (Calder) 11, Great days in Boston 10, 12, 13
123 11, 12, 13 Street-by-Street map 92
Black Heritage Trail 51 Boston Fashion Week 38 Bradford, William 20
Black Masons 128 Boston Flower and Garden Bradstreet, Anne 33
Blackall, Clarence H. Show 36 Brahmins, Boston 24, 25,
Colonial Theatre 86 Boston Granite 32, 47
Metropolitan Theatre 88 architecture 34, 55 Brando, Marlon 89
Blackstone, William 21 Boston Harbor (Lane) 108 Brattle Book Shop 85
Blackstone Memorial Boston Harborfest 37 Street-by-Street map 82
Tablet 49 Boston International Breakdowns, cars 184, 185
Boston Common and Antiquarian Book Fair 38 Breakfasts 138
Public Garden 48 Boston Jewish Film Festival in hotels 132
Blackstone Block 64–5 38 Brewer Fountain 49
Blake, William 114 Boston Latin School (first Bridge, Lagoon 48
Blaschka, Leopold and public school) 20, 21, 127 Brimstone Corner 50
Rudolph 116 Boston Marathon 36, 167 Brinks Robbery (1950)
Blues music 162, 163 Copley Square plaque 98 74
194 GENERAL INDEX
Nightclubs 162, 163 Olmsted, Frederick Law Parks and gardens (cont.)
Nixon, Richard M. 104 105 Hidden Gardens of
Noland, Kenneth Omni Parker House 60 Beacon Hill 36
Here-There 123 Street-by-Street map 58 Joe Moakley Park 124
Nolde, Emil 115 O’Neill, Eugene 89 Post Office Square 66–7
North America map 14–15 O’Neill, Thomas P. “Tip” 33 Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy
North End and the Open-air entertainment Greenway 27, 65
Waterfront 69–79 159 Thomas Park 124
area map 69 Opening hours 174 Parris, Alexander 34
Boston Tea Party 77 banks 178 Charlestown Navy Yard
Great days in Boston 10 bars 138 117
hotels 134–6 restaurants 138 Massachusetts General
New England Aquarium shops 152 Hospital 55
78–9 Opera 160, 161 St. Paul’s Cathedral 84
Old North Church 73 Boston Opera House 82, Passports 174
restaurants 144–5 85 lost passports 176
Street-by-Street map Orchard House (Concord) Patrick, Deval 27
70–71 120 Patriot’s Day 39
Norton, Charles Eliot 114 Oriental Tea Company 64 parade 36
Otis, Harrison Gray Paul Revere House 12, 75,
O Beacon Street 47 127
O’Brien, Hugh 26 Harrison Gray Otis House Street-by-Street map 71
O’Keeffe, Georgia 108 46, 54 Paul Revere Mall 10, 74
Old Boston and the Otis House Museum 31, Street-by-Street map 71
Financial District 57–67 54 Paul S. Russell, MD
architecture 35 Outlet stores 153 Museum of Medical
area map 57 History 55
hotels 134, 135, 137 P Peabody Museum of
Old State House 62–3 Paine, Robert Treat Archaeology and
restaurants 143–4 grave 50 Ethnology (Cambridge)
Street-by-Street map Palladio, Andrea 51 116
58–9 Paris, Treaty of (1783) 23 Peale, Charles Wilson 108
Old City Hall 61 Park Street Church 50, 126 Pei, I.M. & Partners
Street-by-Street map 58 Parker, Harvey D. 60 Government Center 64
Old Corner Bookstore 61, Parker, Robert 33 John Hancock Tower 99
127 Parker House see Omni Museum of Fine Arts,
Street-by-Street map 59 Parker House Boston 106
Old Granary Burying Parking 132, 184 Pennacook tribe 19
Ground 50, 126 Parkman, Dr. George Pennell, H.B. 86
The Old Manse (Concord) Beacon Street 47 Performing Arts Series at
119 Parkman Bandstand 49 the Hatch Shell 37
Old North Church 23, 73 Parkman House 47 Personal security 176
Annual Lantern Festival Parks and gardens Petrol (gas) 184
36 Arnold Arboretum 36, Pharmacies 177
Freedom Trail walk 128 104–5 Philippoteaux, Paul 101
Great days in Boston 10, Boston Common and Phillips, Wendell 25
12, 13 Public Garden 11, 12, 13, Phips, Governor William 21
Street-by-Street map 70 36, 48–9 Piano, Renzo 105, 114
Old South Meeting House Boston Flower and Picasso, Pablo 123
10, 61, 127 Garden Show 36 Pierce-Hichborn House 75
Street-by-Street map 59 children’s Boston 170 Pilgrim Fathers 20
Old State House 56, 62–3 Christopher Columbus Pino, Tony 74
Freedom Trail walk 127 Park 10, 12, 13, 75 Pinsky, Robert 33
Great days in Boston 10, Copley Square 98 Planetarium
12, 13 Emerald Necklace 10, Charles Hayden
Street-by-Street map 59 105 Planetarium 55
Old West Church 54 The Esplanade 94 Pleasure Bay 124–5
Oliver, Andrew 85 Franklin Park 105 Pleasure Bay Causeway 125
202 GENERAL INDEX
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the Art Director Gillian Allan
following people whose contributions and Indexer Hilary Bird
assistance have made the preparation of this Researcher Timothy Kennard
book possible.
Revisions and Relaunch Team
Main Contributors Ashwin Raju Adimari, Hansa Babra, Shruti Bahl,
Patricia Harris and David Lyon are journalists and Mark Bailey, Eleanor Berman, Marta Bescos, Sam
critics. They review art and restaurants and write Borland, Caroline Elliker, Alice Fewery, Jo
extensively about travel, food, and popular Gardner, Eric Grossman, Claire Jones, Priya
culture from their home in Cambridge, Kukadia, Sumita Khatwani, Shikha Kulkarni,
Massachusetts. In addition to their books on Esther Labi, Gerrish Lopez, Carly Madden, Nicola
art and travel, their essays, narratives, and Malone, Sam Merrell, Katherine Mesquita,
photographs have appeared in a wide variety of Casper Morris, Scarlett O’Hara, Mary Ormandy,
online and print publications, including Expedia. Catherine Palmi, Marianne Petrou, Pete Quinlan,
com, The Boston Globe, the Los Angeles Times, Rada Radojicic, Mani Ramaswamy, Lynne
American Craft, Arthur Frommer’s Budget Travel, Robinson, Lokamata Sahu, Sands Publishing
The Robb Report, and Boston Magazine. Solutions, Avijit Sengupta, Azeem Siddiqui,
Preeti Singh, Meredith Smith, Brett Steel, Rachel
Tom Bross has lived in Massachusetts since 1965 Symons, Stuti Tiwari, Ros Walford, Hugo Wilkinson,
and now lives in Boston’s North End, virtually Tanveer Zaidi.
next door to Old North Church. During the past
Special Assistance
25 years as a freelance travel journalist Tom has
written extensively about U.S., Canadian, and Aimee O’Brien at the Greater Boston Convention
overseas destinations for various guidebooks, and Visitors Bureau, who provided invaluable
national magazines, newspapers, newsletters, assistance with many Boston sights. Rosemary
and online publications. His domestic specialties Barron for acting as food consultant and for
are New England and California; overseas, food preparation.
Germany, Belgium, and Austria. He is, in addition,
Photography Permissions
a professional photographer and spent several
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the
years in the 1980s as staff photographer of his
following for their assistance and kind
home city’s American League baseball team,
permission to photograph at their establishments:
the Boston Red Sox.
Courtesy COMMONWEALTH OF
MASSACHUSETTS ART: George Washington Sir
Kem Sawyer lives in Washington DC and has
Francis Chantrey, 1827 – 53bl; Civil War Army
written children’s books, feature articles, and
Nurses Memorial Bela Pratt, 1911 – 53ca; John
book reviews. She particularly enjoys writing
Hancock Memorial artist unknown, 1915 – 23cl;
about history and has written the history feature
Return of the Colours to the Custody of the
for the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide to Washington
Commonwealth, December 22, 1986, mural by
DC as well as for this guide.
Edward Simmons, 1902 – 53tl; Stained glass
window, Main Stair Hall, 1900/details:
Additional Contributors
Magna Carta seal 43, Seal of the Commonwealth
Brett Cook, Eric Grossman, Carolyn Heller,
(pre-1898) 52b.
Juliette Rogers.
Museum of Fine Arts, Sackler Museum, Harvard
Additional Illustrations
Museum of Natural History, the Fogg Art and
Christopher King.
Busch-Reisinger Museums, and Franklin Park Zoo.
Additional Photography
Peter Anderson, John Coletti, Patricia Harris, All other churches, museums, hotels,
David Lyon, Ian O’Leary, Stephen Oliver, restaurants, shops, galleries and sights too
Susannah Sayler, Tony Souter, Clive Streeter. numerous to thank individually.
Works of art have been reproduced with the Collection, New York: 18, 20t/c/bc, 21t/clb/bc,
permission of the following copyright holders: 22tr/clb/bc, 22-23c, 23tl/cra/crb, 24ca, 25tl/crb,
Here-There Wall by Kenneth Noland 1985 (c) 27cla, 32bl, 33c, 67tl, 77br/cr, 85br; Greater
DACS, London/VAGA, New York 2011 123bc. Boston Convention & Visitors Bureau: US
PhotoGroup/Leslie Wood 185cr; Greyhound
The publisher would like to thank the following Lines Inc.: 181c; Grill 23 & Bar: 138cl.
individuals, companies and picture libraries for
permission to reproduce their photographs. Harvard University Art Museums: © President
and Fellows of Harvard College, courtesy of
akg-images: Arkivi 24cb. Alamy Images: Bill Fogg Art Museum, Alpheus Hyatt Purchasing
Brooks 59cr; Ian Dagnall 75b; Randy Duchaine and Friends of the Fogg Art Museum Funds
Kneeling Angel Gian Lorenzo Bernini, c.1674-
80, 116br; Michael Dwyer 166br; Sarah Hadley
1675 -115tl; courtesy of the Busch-Reisinger
71cr; Andre Jenny 122bl, 141tl; Luscious Frames
Museum, Gift of Sibyl Moholy-Nagy, Light-Space
85cl; Alan Myers 125br; North Wind Picture
Modulator, Laszlo Moholy-Nagy, 1930 © Hattula
Archives 61tr; Old Paper Studios 26cr; William Moholy-Nagy/DACS, London 2011 - 114bc;
Owens 10cl; Chuck Pefley 11tc; Pictorial Press courtesy Fogg Art Museum, Bequest: Collection
Ltd 32cl; Prisma Bildagentur AG 29cr; Robert of Maurice Wertheim Skating Edouard Manet,
Harding Picture Library Ltd 44bl; Swerve125tl; 1877 - 115tr; Peter Vanderwarker 114cla, 115br;
Jeff Titcomb 123tr; Vespasian 148br; View/Paul Hulton Getty Collection: 60cb .
Raftery 31cr; Visions of America, LLC 164cr; Jim
West 138br. The Art Archive: 89bc; AWL Maggie Janik/www.photographersdirect.com:
Images: Alan Copson 68; Axiom: 36cl. 124cla.
bl, 79tc/cra; No. 9 Park: Susie Cushner 142bl. Taj Boston: 133tl, 136tr; Topham Picturepoint:
The Oceanaire/Landry’s, Inc: 139tl, 144tr; Old 27bc.
North Church, Boston: 73clb; Omni Parker
House: 58clb; Used by Permission of Orchard XV Beacon: 137br.
House / The Louisa May Alcott Memorial
Association: 120c; Paul O’Shaughnessy: 121ca.
Map front cover: nobleIMAGES.
Peabody Museum of Archaeology and
Ethnology/Harvard University: © President and Front Endpaper: Dreamstime.com: Jorge
Fellows of Harvard College 1976. All Rights Salcedo Ltc. Alamy Images:. Randy Duchaine
Reserved. Photos Hillel Burger 116c.; Courtesy Rbl; AWL Images: Alan Copson Rtr; Corbis:
Paul Revere Memorial Association: 75t. Photononstop/Calle Montes Rbr; Dreamstime.
com: Americanspirit Lbc.
Puppet Showcase Theatre: Marionettes by Paul
Vincent Davis 171tl.
Jacket
Front and spine top: Alamy Stock Photo:
Revere Hotel: 132br, 134bl; Rialto Restaurant:
149br; Robert Harding Picture Library: Steve nobleIMAGES
Dunwell 40-1.
All other images ©Dorling Kindersley.
Sorellina: 148tl; STA Travel Group: 175clb. See www.dkimages.com for further information.
Further Reading
Non-Fiction Paul Revere’s Ride. Fischer,
A Guide to Public Art in Boston: from David Hackett. (Oxford University
Newburyport to Plymouth. Carlock, Press, 1994.)
Marty. (Harvard Common Press, The Fitzgeralds and the Kennedys:
1993.) an American Saga. Goodwin,
AIA Guide to Boston. Southworth, Doris Kearns. (Simon and Schuster,
Michael and Susan. (Globe Pequot 1987.)
Press, 1996.) 26 Miles to Boston: the Boston
All about Boston Harbor Islands. Kales, Marathon Experience from
Emily and David. (Hewitts Cove Hopkinton to Copley Square.
Publishing Co. Inc., 1983.) Connelly, Michael. (Parnassus
Boston Sites and Insights. Wilson, Imprints, 1998.)
Susan. (Beacon Hill Press, 1994.)
Exploring in and Around Boston on Bike Fiction
and Foot. Sinai, Lee. (Appalachian The Godwulf Manuscript. Parker,
Mountain Club Books, 1996.) Robert. (Delacorte Press,
Gaining Ground: A History of 1974.)
Landmaking in Boston. Seasholes, Make Way for Ducklings. McCloskey,
Nancy. (Mit Press, 2003.) Robert. (Viking Press, 1941.)
Imagining Boston: A Literary Landscape. Mortal Friends. Carroll, James.
O’Connell, Shaun. (Beacon Press, (Little Brown & Company,
1990.) 1978.)