THE
NETHERLANDS
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
THE
NETHERLANDS
Main Contributor Gerard M L Harmans
CONTENTS
Produced by Van Reemst Uitgeverij/Unieboek bv
How to use
Main Contributor Gerard M.L. Harmans this Guide 6
Design Studio Putto, De Rijp
Photographers
Max Alexander, Anwb Audiovisuele Dienst
(Thijs Tuurenhout), George Burggraaff, Jurjen Drenth,
Rubert Horrox, Kim Sayer, Herman Scholten
Illustrators
Hilbert Bolland, Jan Egas, Gieb van Enckevort,
Nick Gibbard, Mark Jurrins, Maltings Partnership,
Derrick Stone, Khoobie Verwer, Martin Woodward
Cartography
Jane Hanson, Armand Haye, Lovell Johns Limited
(Oxford, UK), Phil Rose, Jennifer Skelley, Peter de Vries
Oude Zijde 74
Nieuwe Zijde 86
Canal Ring 98
Zeeland 246
Northern and
Eastern
Netherlands
Introducing the
Northern and Eastern The imposing Sint Jan
Netherlands 260 in s-Hertogenbosch
(see pp3645)
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
Amsterdam
Amsterdam is divided OUDE ZIJDE
The eastern half of Amsterdam became
known as the Oude Zijde (Old Side).
of Jewish refugees from Portugal. The oldest
of the four synagogues, now containing the
AMSTERDAM 75
1 Area Map
This map is numbered
to show the most important
into five tourist areas. The Originally it occupied a narrow strip on
the east bank of the Amstel river, running
Joods Historisch Museum, dates from this
period. These were central to Jewish life
between Damrak and the Oudezijds in the city for centuries. During the Golden
attractions. They are also given
corresponding chapters all
Voorburgwal. At its heart was built the Oude Age (see pp545), the Oude Zijde was an
Kerk, the oldest church in the city. In the important commercial centre. Boats could
begin with a list of numbered 1600s. This growth was fuelled by an influx before being sold at the market.
Sights at a Glance
on pages 15463.
sights and places of interest, Historic Buildings and
Monuments
2 Waag
5 Agnietenkapel
Opera Houses
q Stadhuis-Muziektheater
Museums
t Portugees-Isralitische Synagoge
a Oude Kerk pp845
Streets and Markets
KROM
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maps 2 & 5
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monuments, streets,
W R STR
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0 metres 250
0 yards 250
All pages about are dozens of quirky shops, which are well
worth a browse, selling anything from
designer clothes to old sinks, and lively
new architecture. Its
numerous bridges
provide pretty views.
Amsterdam are
Locator Map
brown cafs and bars, which spill onto See Street Finder map 1
T
T
CH
RA
SG
2
ER
TI
T
AN
CH
Street-by-Street Map
EL
EG
RA
SG
ER
Bloemgracht Levensverzekeringsbank
A
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MG designed by Gerrit van
S
L E
OE
CH
I N
BL L I Arkel in 1905.
RA
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SG
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KE
Key
2. Homomonument
Recommended route The pink triangle used
to brand homosexual
men during World War II
3 . Westerkerk 1 . Anne Frank Huis influenced the design
Hendrick de Keysers church is the For two years, the Frank family of this memorial to
0 metres 75
site of Rembrandts unmarked and four others lived in a small oppressed gay men and
grave and was the setting for upstairs apartment that was 0 yards 75 women everywhere.
the wedding of Queen Beatrix hidden behind a revolving It was unveiled in
and Prince Claus in 1966. bookcase (see pp11213). September 1987.
144 AMSTERDAM OUTSIDE THE CENTRE
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
145
q Frankendael r Heineken
Middenweg 72. Map 6 F5. v 9. Experience
@ 41, 65, 101, 136, 152, 157.
Stadhouderskade 78. Map 4 F3.
Open dawndusk. Tel 020-523 9222. v 7, 10, 16,
During the early part of the 18th
century, many of Amsterdams
wealthier citizens built country
24. Open 11am5:30pm daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 =
Under 18s with parents only.
Stars indicate sights that
should not be missed.
heinekenexperience.com
retreats south of Plantage
Middenlaan on reclaimed land This historic 1867 building once
called the Watergraafsmeer. housed the Heineken brewery.
The elegant Louis XIV-style Now it offers an exhibition of
Frankendael is the last survivor. how beer is made, culminating
The house is closed to the in a tasting room where you can
public; the best views of the have a drink.
ornamented faade are from Interior of Amsterdam RAI with a trade fair in progress
Middenweg. This is also the best
t Huizenblok De
place to view the fountain made y Verzetsmuseum deportation of the Jews, are
in 1714 by Ignatius van Logteren Dageraad Plantage Kerklaan 61. Map 6 D2.
brought to life by exhibits
(16851732), a sculptor who, Pieter Lodewijk Takstraat. v 4, 12, 25. Tel 020-6202535. v 9, 14. showing where the refugees
along with his son, played a Closed to the public. Open 10am5pm TueFri, hid and how food for them was
central role in the development 11am5pm Mon & Sat. Closed 1 Jan, smuggled in.
of Amsterdams Louis XIV style. One of the best examples 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7 8 - 0
The rear gardens have been of Amsterdam School verzetsmuseum.org
restored and are open to the architecture (see pp1467), u Amsterdam RAI
public. Behind the house is a De Dageraad (the Dawn) Previously based in a former Europaplein. Tel 0900-2678373.
small formal garden, and housing project was devel- synagogue in Nieuw Zuid (New v 4. q RAI. @ 62, 65.
3
beyond lies a landscaped, oped for poorer families South), now at a site in the Open depending on exhibition.
English-style garden. There are The ornamental faade of Frankendael House following the Housing Act Plantage, the Resistance Museum
Detailed Information
Enquiries: 8:30am5:30pm MonFri.
also allotment gardens. The of 1901, by which the city holds a fascinating collection of & ^ 7 with assistance. rai.nl
coach house is now home to decorated with symbols of America. Gerrit Schoutens council condemned slums memorabilia recording the
caf-restaurant Merkelbach. imperialism, such as stone 1819 diorama made of papier- and rethought housing policy. activities of Dutch Resistance Amsterdam RAI is one of the
friezes of peasants planting rice. mch and painted wood Architect HP Berlage drew up workers in World War II. It was set largest exhibition and con-
Upon completion of the
buildings renovation in 1978,
the Royal Tropical Institute
opened a museum, with a huge
depicts life in Suriname.
e Hermitage
plans for the suburbs, aiming
to integrate rich and poor by
juxtaposing their housing.
After Berlages death, Piet
up by former members of the
Resistance and focuses on the
courage of the 25,000 people
actively involved in the move-
ference centres in the country. It
hosts over 1,000 events annually,
from cabaret to horse shows
and trade fairs. The first
All main attractions are
central hall and three levels of
galleries. The institutes aims are
to study and to help improve
the lives of the indigenous
Amsterdam
Amstel 51. Map 8 E5. Tel 0900 437
648243. v 4, 9, 14. q Waterlooplein.
Kramer and Michel de Klerk
adopted his ideas. From
191823, they designed this
complex for the De Dageraad
ment. False documents, weap-
onry, film clips, photographs and
equipment are on display.
By 1945 there were 300,000
Amsterdam trade fair was a
bicycle exhibition in 1893.
Subsequent shows included
cars and became an annual
described individually,
including their addresses,
4 Muziektheater. Open 10am5pm
Ignatius van Logterens fountain in the populations of the tropics. The daily (to 8pm Wed). & free for under housing association. people in hiding in the Nether- event known as the RAI (Rijwiel
grounds of the Frankendael displays focus on development 16s. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. 7 lands, including Jews and Automobiel Industrie).
issues regarding daily life, 0 - = hermitage.nl anti-Nazi Dutch. Subsequent
education and colonization. events organized by the
1 Introduction
The Netherlands
NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS 335
Exploring Friesland
Friesland is famous for its vast meadows and its distinctive
farmhouses of the kop-hals-romp and stelp types. It also
Lauwersoog
boasts a varied landscape. In the southwest are the popular
Friese meren (Frisian lakes), while the north is typified by Anjum
undulating dykes, terp villages and church steeples with Holwerd
Lauwers
pitched roofs. Gaasterland in the south has rolling woodlands Meer
and cliffs, whereas the Friese wouden (Frisian woods) in the The sea dyke at Wierum Ferwerd
er
Dokkum
Sights at a Glance Stiens
The terp of Hogbeintum, west of Dokkum, the
1 Leeuwarden
Veenwouden
Buitenpost highest in Friesland
2 Dokkum
3 Franeker Sexbierum Menaldum
4 Harlingen
5 Bolsward LEEUWARDEN Bergumer-
FRANEKER Dronrijp
6 Workum Bergum
Meer 0 kilometres 10
Surhuisterveen
7 Hindeloopen
HARLINGEN 0 miles 5
a al
8 Gaasterland
2 an
9 Sloten tK
Regional Map
ie
0 Sneek Earnewld
r
rg
EN
Ma
q Thialfstadion VEN
Wieuwerd
DE
es
w Oude Venen Wommels
OU
ns
Drachten
Pri
e Beetsterzwaag
Makkum
BOLSWARD
Grou
FRIESLAND
BEETSTERZWAAG
WORKUM Joure
attractions of an area,
APPELSCHA
Heerenveen
HINDELOOPEN ssen
e THIALFSTADION Oldeberkoop
Flu
Koudum Sloter
Gabled houses along Het Diep in Sloten Picturesque Lindevallei at Wolvega, near Thialfstadion
For map symbols see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and p413
Colour tabs are used to colour 276 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS THE WEST FRISIAN ISLANDS 277
3
an important breeding and
Detailed Information
feeding ground for many
Noorderhaaks, above sea level at high tide for some decades now different bird species. De Slufter,
and the neighbouring De Muy,
1 Noorderhaaks Kogerstraat runs the length where spoonbills breed, are
specific topics.
and May at the Groeneplats, was abandoned in 1736.
Den Burgs main square, with the
present-day town hall. Today, a E Tromps Huys
sheep day is held on the first Dorpsstraat 99, Oost-Vlieland.
Monday of September. Further Tel 0562-451600. Open school hols:
on, by the Binnenburg, or inner 10am5pm TueFri, 25pm Sat, 24pm
castle, stands the 15th-century Sun; outside school hols: 25pm Tue
Late Gothic Hervormde kerk Thu, 10am1pm Fri, 25pm Sat.
(Protestant church). The The Nederlands-Hervormde church in Den Burg (1481) The village hall in Oost-Vlieland Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Pentecost. &
250 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
For hotels and restaurants inthis region see pp3989 and p412
ZEELAND 251
1 Oosterschelde
Concrete Piers
VISITORS CHECKLIST
The piers were
Stormvloedkering made on the
artificial island of
Practical Information
Road Map A45. Deltapark
Throughout the centuries, the history of the Netherlands Neeltje Jans and
Neeltje Jans, Faelweg 5,
has been dominated by its peoples struggle against the then transported
Vrouwenpolder.
by special barges
sea. After the disastrous floods of 1953, which hit Zeeland to their destination.
Open AprOct: 10am5:30pm
The Windsock daily; NovMar: 10am5pm Wed,
heavily, the battle to remove the danger of the sea once When the windsock is full, a This mighty task
Sat & Sun. & 7 - 0 =
practical information to
has had a major impact on the landscape.
4
was built, with 62 sliding gates, which are
closed on average once a year during heavy
The Fateful Night of 1953
On the night of 31 January 1953,
an event considered impossible in
storms. This keeps the water salty and has
preserved the unique salt marshes and mud
flats of the Oosterschelde.
The Top Sights
These sights are described on
modern times occurred. A combination
of spring tides and storms breached KEY
the dykes and washed them away
1 Concrete piers bear the sea wall.
as loose sand. A total of 1,835 people
DISCOVERING THE
NETHERLANDS
The following itineraries have been designed the more rural province of Friesland
to include as many of the countrys highlights and the islands that lie just offshore.
as possible, while keeping long-distance The third suggested itinerary is a circular tour
travel manageable. First come three two-day beginning and ending in Amsterdam, which
tours of the Netherlands most important takes in the quiet towns on the eastern side
cities: Amsterdam, The Hague and Utrecht. of the country. The fourth tour is a linear
Visitors can combine these into a single six- cycle route threading through the towns and
day tour by catching a train to the next city. countryside along the River IJssel; this last
Next come four, seven-day tours. The first of itinerary can also be followed by car. Pick,
these covers the principal cities in the south, combine and follow your favourite tours,
while the second ventures further north to or simply dip in and out and be inspired.
T
ES
W
A Week in the South Oost-
Vlieland
0 kilometres 20
See beautiful paintings
Visit the handsome Vlieland
displayed at Haarlems old houses of the 0 miles 20
Frans Hals Museum. Delfshaven, Rotterdams
Learn about the ancient earliest harbour.
culture of the Egyptians
See the superb stained-
at Rijksmuseum van glass windows in
Oudheden in Leiden. Goudas St Janskerk.
Admire the wonderful
Dont miss the Den Oever
blooms of the spectacular sight of
Keukenhof gardens 19 vintage windmills
near Leiden. at Kinderdijk.
NORTH
HOLLAND
North
Sea Hoorn
Alkmaar
Edam
Volendam
Marken
Haarlem
Amsterdam
Keukenhof
Leiden
UTRECHT
The Hague SOUTH
HOLLAND
Gouda
Delft Lek
Rotterdam
Kinderdijk
Harlingen
FRIESLAND
Sneek
Hindeloopen
IJs DRENTHE
se
lm
ee
r De Weerribben
Zuiderzeemuseum Giethoorn
Enkhuizen Vollenhove
Key
Urk
r Staphorst A Week in the South
m ee Schokland
k er Museum
A Week in the North and
ar the Islands
M Kampen
Ve c h t A Circular Tour from
Lelystad Zwolle
Amsterdam
FLEVOLAND Elburg OVERIJSSEL A Cycling Tour of the
I J s se l
River IJssel
e er
em
w
lu
Ve
Sallandse Heuvelrug
Deventer
GELDERLAND
Amersfoort
Krller-Mller
Zutphen A Cycling Tour of the River IJssel
Museum
National Park de Bronkhorst
Hoge Veluwe
Explore the heaths and
Enjoy the small-town
woods of the National charms of Zutphen
er R h i ne Arnhem Park de Hoge Veluwe and the medieval library
Low
by bicycle. at St Walburgskerk.
Wa
al
See the splendid
Wander the streets of
collection of Dutch art Zwolle, one of the
at the Krller-Mller countrys most
Museum near Arnhem. beguiling cities.
12 INTRODUCING THE NETHERLANDS
Two Days in
Amsterdam
Known as home to Anne
Frank and Van Gogh,
Amsterdam is brimming
with sights and beautiful
canals to explore.
Arriving Schiphol Airport
is a 20-minute train journey
from the city centre.
Amsterdam also has good
train connections with the
rest of Europe.
Arriving Start in Haarlem,
easily accessed from
Amsterdams Schiphol
airport.
Transport Most of this
itinerary can be completed
using local trains and buses,
but a car will give added
flexibility. The Kinderdijk
windmills are only accessible
by car or bicycle.
Day 1: Arnhem Cycling trail in the National Park de Hoge Veluwe, Gelderland
Begin the tour with a stroll
through the centre of Arnhem a cluster of immaculate cottages. and very ornate weigh house,
(p344), a lively city that suffered Then, continue to Zutphen the Waag. Dont leave town
terribly during the Battle of (p345), a beguiling country without trying the local
Arnhem in 1944. It now hosts a town with a huddle of ancient speciality, Kruidkoek, a tangy
vibrant restaurant and nightclub buildings and the remnants of spice cake.
scene. Pause to admire the medieval walls. Look out for
imposing edifice of the the Drogenapstoren (p345), a Day 5: Sallandse Heuvelrug
Eusebiuskerk (p344), restored fortified tower dating from From Deventer, travel northeast
after wartime damage as the 15th century, and drop by to the partly wooded, sandy
were the neighbouring Stadhuis St Walburgskerk (p345), a heathlands of the Sallandse
and Duivelshuis (p344), both splendid Gothic church with a Heuvelrug (p324), now
of which are fine examples of medieval library, where the books protected as a national park.
Dutch Renaissance architecture. are still chained to the desks. At the Bezoekscentrum (Visitor
Then, go down to the Rijnkade, Centre), visitors can get their
where there is a walking and Day 4: Deventer bearings and pick up maps of
cycling path along the bank Cycle onwards and relax in the park and its myriad cycling
of the River Rhine. Deventer (p324), a small and routes. While wandering
historic town that nudges up through the park, look out for
Day 2: National Park de against the River IJssel. Watch the black grouse this is its last
Hoge Veluwe the heavily laden barges remaining breeding ground in
Pedal out to the National Park ploughing up and down the the whole of the Netherlands.
de Hoge Veluwe (p343), a chunk river, and then wander along
of mixed woodland, heath, the main square, the Brink, Day 6: Zwolle
marshland and sand dunes that as it curves past the towns Cycle to Zwolle (see p16 for
stretches north of Arnhem. intriguing Historisch Museum details on Zwolle).
Explore the parks maze of (p324), which occupies the old
cycling trails, and be sure to visit Day 7: Kampen
the Museonder (p343), a Approach Kampen (p320) from
subterranean museum that the east across the River IJssel
offers a picture of what the to appreciate the towns fine
natural world looks like below riverside setting and soaring
ground level from how roots spires. Once in town, make a
grow to the animals that burrow beeline for the unusual
there. Afterwards, head for the Ikonenmuseum (p321), with its
parks crowning highlight the substantial collection of Russian
Krller-Mller Museum (p342), and Greek icons, and get the
with its world-famous art low-down on the towns long
collection and open-air history at the intriguing
sculpture garden, Beeldentuin. Stedelijk Museum (p321). Finish
Return to Arnhem for the night. the day by wandering through
the town centre, admiring its
Day 3: Bronkhorst to handsome old buildings, most
Zutphen memorably the Oude Raadhuis
Head out of Arnhem to and the three remaining town
Bronkhorst (p345), a tiny but The Deventer skyline across the gates, which date back to the
immensely pretty little place with River IJssel 14th century.
18 INTRODUCING THE NETHERLANDS
n
The Netherlands has a population of just over 17 million.
e
d
d
a
W
Western Europe N ORWAY
Den Helder
SWEDEN
North
D E N MA R K NOORD
Sea HOLLAND IJsselmeer
REP. OF Enkhuizen
IRELAND UNITED Amsterdam
KINGDOM NETHERLANDS
GERMANY Hoorn
BELGIUM Alkmaar
CZECH Newcastle
REPUBLIC Markermeer
See inset map below
FRANCE AUSTRIA Leylstad
Atlantic SWITZ.
Ocean ITALY
Almere
Haarlem AMSTERDAM
SPAIN
Schiphol
Amersfoort
Leiden
Key ZUID
Den Haag HOLLAND Utrecht
Greater Amsterdam UTRECHT
Gouda
Land below sea level Delft
Rotterdam Le k L ek
Motorway Hoek van
Holland Rotterdam
l
Major road
aa
W
Railway Barendrecht
Hull,
Dordrecht
Harwich National border
's Hertogenbosch
Zeebrugge Turnhout
Ramsgate
Antwerpen
Alb
Oostende ert
K ana
Brugge Antwerpen a l
Norden Bremerhaven
Wilhelmshaven
nal
de Ka
EMS Ju
Emden
GRONINGEN
Leeuwarden Hunte
Groningen
FRIESLAND Friesoythe
Assen
Vechta
Emmen
Lingen G E R M A N Y
Ve
Zwolle OV E R -
FLEVO- al
IJSSEL Nordhorn Kan
LAND elland
Almelo Mitt
Osnabrck
NETHERLANDS Rheine
Hengelo
Em
Deventer
s
Apeldoorn Enschede
Mnster
Berkel
el
GELDERLAND
IJss
0 kilometres 20
Arnhem
0 miles 20
Coesfeld
Nijmegen
Rh
ei
n
Wesel
Amsterdam and Environs
M
aa
s Markermeer
Helmond Heemskerk Purmerend
Haarlem
Zu Mnchengladbach Almere
id Zandvoort AMSTERDAM
W IJmeer
Ka
ille al
Ru Almere
na
msvaa
r Haven
Hoofdoorp Schiphol Weesp
Hillegom
rt
Amstelveen Bussum
Maastricht Mijdrecht
Aachen
INTRODUCING THE NETHERLANDS 21
A PORTRAIT OF
THE NETHERLANDS
From the Frisian Islands in the north to Zeeland in the south, the Netherlands is
a place of contrasts, with fine sandy beaches, picturesque villages and vibrant
towns with multilingual and outward-looking people. The mighty River Rhine
bisects the country, bringing trade and prosperity from far and wide.
Hollands dunes, a natural barrier against the sea and an important water catchment area
At the Hook of Holland the The lowest point At Krimpen the IJssel The Krimpenerwaard
sea is not held back by dunes, in Holland is the discharges into the between the IJssel and the
as it is along the entire coast Zuidplaspolder at Nieuwe Maas. Lek, consists of high-quality
of North Holland and South Gouda, 6.74 m (22 hayfields and pasture.
Holland, but by a dyke. ft) below sea level.
The River
Lek
Merwede
Canal
AMSTERDAM
Sea level
ROTTERDAM
Locator Map
Water table Winter dyke Concrete blocks Water meadows Summer dyke
28 INTRODUCING THE NETHERLANDS
This Drenthe
farmhouse is a
modern version of
The inner yard of the
what has been known Zuid Limburg farmhouse
since the Middle once teemed with
Ages as a los hoes animal life.
(detached house).
Paltrok Mills
Sail
Paltrok, or smock, mills were developed for
use as sawmills around 1600. They were so
called because of their resemblance to the
paltrok, a smock that was commonly worn
at the time. These windmills were mounted
on a circular track, allowing them to rotate Wheels allow the
in their entirety. Generally, smock mills were windmill to rotate
on its axis.
used to saw wagenschot entire oak
trunks that had been split in two.
Ridge post
Underneath the
porch is a crane
for lifting the
tree trunks from The mill house
the water. is divided into
two wings.
Saw floor
Delftware
Although tin-glazed earthenware was also made in other
parts of the Netherlands, Delft came to describe almost all
earthenware made in the Netherlands during this period.
Any piece made after 1650 will always have a workshop
mark. Later, the glazers initials, as well as a code denoting
the year and a serial number, were added.
Tiles
Majolica wall tiles decorated earthenware on a
tinglazed background were made for the first
time in the Netherlands during the 16th century,
with production reaching its peak in the 17th
century. Until 1625, polychrome decoration
predominated, after which the majority of tiles
were painted in blue on white. Major centres were
Makkum where in the 17th century the Tichelaar
family firm, which operates to this day, was
established as well as Harlingen, Delft, Gouda,
Amsterdam, Utrecht and Haarlem. The tiles
depicted here are from Haarlem. (See also p419.)
TAC Colenbrander
One of the biggest names in Art Nouveau
pottery is TAC Colenbrander (18411930).
Originally an architect, he became known for his
fanciful floralbased designs for the Rozenburg
earthenware and porcelain factory in The Hague,
where he was chief designer from 1884 to 1889.
As celebrated as his designs were, the ceramics
had limited commercial success. One reason for
this was their expense, a reflection of the labour
intensive production. In 191213, Colenbrander
worked for the ZuidHolland pottery in Gouda.
In addition to pottery, he designed wallpaper
and carpets, and worked as a graphic and
interior designer.
The lily often features as a
corner motif on Dutch tiles.
The annual
flower
competition
(bloemen
corso) in the
bulb-growing
region is a
grand event
(see p36).
Crocus
bulbs Hyacinth bulbs
should be range in colour from
planted in violet red to white.
September.
Flower Sellers
Flower sellers are part and parcel of the
Netherlands street scene. They can also be
found indoors, in places such as stations or
shopping centres. In most countries, cut flowers
are considered expensive and a luxury. In the
Netherlands, however, they are practically a daily
shopping item and quite cheap. The Netherlands
is indeed the land of flowers par excellence.
THE NETHERLANDS
THROUGH THE YEAR
The Netherlands has much to offer in Rotterdam, are much more modern.
the way of holidays, festivals and other Many of the events are held to honour
events. The choice of cultural events is navigation and fishing, such as Flag
greatest in summer several cities host Day (Vlaggetjesdag), held each May
theatre festivals in June. Some festivals, in Scheveningen. Music, too, plays a
such as Leidens 3-Oktoberfeesten, have prominent role. The world-renowned
deep historical roots, whereas others, such North Sea Jazz festival brings the
as the multicultural Zomercarnaval in genres greats to Rotterdam.
Spring
In March, daffodils and
crocuses burst into bloom
in the countrys towns and
villages. From mid-April
onwards, when the tulips
are in flower, the bulb fields
along the Dutch coast are
a spectacular sight to see.
March
Meezing Matthus (Easter),
Amsterdam and elsewhere.
Concert-goers are welcome
to sing along during many Blossoming fruit tree in the Betuwe
performances of Bachs
St Matthews Passion. of Brielle (Den Briel) recreate in the country are opened
Keukenhof (end Mar to mid- the 1572 recovery of the up to the public.
May), near Lisse. These 32 ha city from the Spaniards. Vlaggetjesdag (Flag Day)
(79 acres) of landscape Foto Binnale (Apr to Jul), (May), Scheveningen. The
gardens demonstrate the Amsterdam and other cities. arrival of the first herring catch
best of all the flowers Holland Biannual international of the season is celebrated
has to offer. This open-air photography exhibition takes with demonstrations of
exhibition was started in place in even-numbered years. traditional fishing-related
1949, and has become Bloemen Corso (Flower crafts, music and a race.
internationally renowned. Competition) (late Apr), Aspergerie Primeur
Bollenstreek. Floats with floral (Ascension Day), Venlo. In
April sculptures travel a 40-km a festive atmosphere on a
First of April Celebrations, (25-mile) route through re-created old-time village
Brielle. Dressed in 16th-century- Haarlem, Hillegom, Lisse green, visitors can tuck into
style clothing, the inhabitants and Noordwijk. deliciously cooked asparagus.
Koningsdag (Kings Day) Keidagen (around Ascension
(27 Apr). The birthday of King Day), Lochem. Five days of
Willem-Alexander sees
festivities throughout the
land; the biggest event is
held in Amsterdam.
May
Landelijke Fietsmaand
(National Cycling Month)
(all month). Cycling activities
throughout the country.
Nationale Moldendag
(National Windmill Day)
A young street musician on Kings Day (second Sat in May). Some Flag Day, the start of the new herring
in Amsterdam 600 of the 1,000 windmills fishing season
THE NETHERLANDS THROUGH THE YEAR 37
Summer
Summer in the Netherlands is
a time of major cultural events.
These include the Holland The increasingly popular boat race to Terschelling
Festival in Amsterdam, the
Theater a/d Werf in Utrecht, Helder. A chance to see frigates, Zomercarnaval (Summer
the Parade (Amsterdam, submarines, torpedo boats Carnival) (last Sat in Jul),
Utrecht, The Hague, Rotterdam), and mine hunters belonging Rotterdam. A lively Caribbean
and the Haagse Zomer in The to the Netherlands Navy, with carnival with exotic music,
Hague. And if theatre is not spectacular shows put on by plenty to eat and drink and
your favourite pastime, there the Netherlands Marines. a swirling procession.
are plenty of other activities
to keep you entertained. July August
Oud Limburgs Schuttersfeest Gay Pride (first weekend in Aug),
June (Marksmans Festival) (first Sun Amsterdam. One of the very
Holland Festival (3 weeks in Jul). The annual tournament best Prides in the world; the
of Jun), venues by the marksmen of highlight is the Canal Parade.
throughout Limburg is a colourful Mosselfeesten (Mussel Festivals)
Amsterdam and major folk event held in the (third Sat in Aug), Yerseke; (last
cities. A varied hometown of the previous weekend in Aug), Philippine.
programme of concerts, years winner. Harvest festival presenting the
plays, opera and ballet. North Sea Jazz (mid-Jul), new crops of Zeeland.
Aaltjesdag (Eel Day) Rotterdam. A three-day Preuvenemint (last weekend in
(second Sat in Jun), spectacle widely acknowl- Aug), Maastricht. Flamboyant
Harderwijk. Major edged as the worlds largest festival of food and drink at
fishing celebration jazz festival, featuring the historical Vrijthof.
in this former harbour performances by the Uitmarkt (last weekend in Aug),
on the Zuider Zee. biggest names in jazz. Amsterdam. Festive opening
Oerol Festival (mid- Herring-eating Tilburgse kermis (Tilburg of the theatre season with
Jun), Terschelling. by hand Fair) (end Jul). One of the performances and information
This alternative biggest and most exuberant booths. There is also a book
cultural festival lasts for ten fairs in Holland, with a special fair, where literary publishers
days, with clowns, street gay Pink Monday. are represented.
theatre, acrobats, pop concerts
and music from around
the world.
Poetry International (mid-Jun),
Rotterdam. Prestigious poetry
festival featuring an inter-
national programme, in
Rotterdams Doelen district.
Pasar Malam Besar (second half
of Jun), The Hague. This festival
of Indonesian music and dance,
shadow puppets, cooking
demonstrations and colourful
eastern market takes place at
Malieveld in The Hague.
Nationale Vlootdagen (Navy
days) (end Jun/early Jul), Den North Sea Jazz, one of the worlds major jazz events
38 INTRODUCING THE NETHERLANDS
NORTH
DEN HELDER HOLLAND
Lelystad
19/66
18/64
C/ F 14/57 14/57 Haarlem FLEVOLAND
13/55
s-Hertogenbosch
Eindhoven
DE BILT BEEK
21/70 22/72
19/66 Average 19/66
17/63 18/64
C/F
maximum C/F
12/54 temperature 13/55
10/50 9/48 10/50
9/48 Average 10/50 9/48
7/45 8/46
5/41
minimum
3/37 4/39
1/34
temperature 2/36
4/39
1/30
Average hours 1/30 Maas-
54 118 214 191 143 53 44 109 202 181 145 53
of sunshine per tricht
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
76 44 43 82 73 55
month
68 45 62 89 81 62
mm mm mm mm mm mm Average mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Jan Mar May Jul Sep Nov
rainfall
month Jan Mar May Jul Sep Nov
per month
THE NETHERLANDS THROUGH THE YEAR 41
GRONINGEN
Groningen
Assen
DRENTHE
Spring
Zwolle
OVERIJSSEL
Enschede
Apeldoorn
GELDERLAND
Summer
Arnhem
EELDE
21/70
18/64
16/61
C/ F
LIMBU RG Autumn
12/54
9/48 8/46
8/46
6/43
4/39
3/37
1/30 0/32
46 104 214 183 142 50
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
72 46 53 95 72 66
mm mm mm mm mm mm
Winter
INTRODUCING THE NETHERLANDS 43
The IJ at Amsterdam, Viewed from the Mussel Quay, painted by Ludolf Backhuysen (16311708)
44 INTRODUCING THE NETHERLANDS
14171433 Jacoba
11521190 Frederik
of Bavaria
c. 685719 Barbarossa (German
Radboud, King king)
of the Frisians 13421364 Jan IV
van Arkel, Bishop
of Utrecht
13121355 Jan III
814840 (Duke of Brabant
Louis the and Limburg)
14041417
Pious 885 Willem VI,
889 Count of
12031222 Willem I,
Gerulf, Holland
Count Count of Holland
of
Holland
11281139
Andries van Kuik
(Bishop of Utrecht)
12561296 Floris V
(Count of Holland)
768814
Charlemagne
THE HISTORY OF THE NETHERLANDS 45
15851625
Maurits
2013
15591567 and 15721584 Willem-Alexander
18061810 Louis
William of Orange, The Silent (king)
Napoleon (French
(stadholder of Holland, Zeeland
viceroy, king of Holland)
and Utrecht, under Philip II
until 1581)
18151840
William I (king)
15671573 Ferdinand,
Duke of Alva (viceroy
under Philip II)
16251647
Frederick-Hendrik
14671477 16471650
Charles the Bold William II
16721702
14771482 Maria William III 18981948
of Burgundy 16871711 Wilhelmina
Johan Willem
Friso, stadholder 18901898 Emma
14821506 Philip the (regent)
Handsome (House of Friesland
of Habsburg) (1696), Prince
of Orange (1702)
17951806 18901948
Batavian Republic Wilhelmina
17511795 19481980
15591567 Margaretha of Parma William V Juliana
(governor under Philip II)
Megaliths
Between 3400 and 3200 BC, the
inhabitants of the Drenthe plateau built
some 100 megaliths. Of these, 54 have
survived into the present (see pp310
11). These impressive tombs were once
concealed beneath a mound of sand.
Urns
These urns
date from
1150800 BC.
The dark rings in this
picture are of the ditches
that originally surrounded
the urn-mounds. The rings
are interrupted at their
southeastern edge, possibly
to represent the symbolic
entrance to the tomb.
34003200 BC
Farmers of the Beaker
Folk build megaliths at
11,000 BC Reindeer hunters of the Drenthe, Overijssel Wheel from
Hamburg Culture inhabit Drenthe and Groningen 2700 BC
THE HISTORY OF THE NETHERLANDS 47
Where to See
Prehistoric and
Roman Holland
In addition to the megaliths
of Drenthe and the Someren
urnfield, prehistoric graves
have been discovered at
Almere, Hilversum, Vaassen,
Lunteren, Goirle and Rolde,
and at Toterfout/Halfmijl
The Simpelveld Sarcophagus
in Brabant, where 16 burial
In the 1930s, a Roman burial urn was excavated at
mounds have been restored
Simpelveld near Limburg. The interior of the urn is
to their original condition,
decorated with reliefs depicting the exterior and
complete with trenches and
the furnishings of a Roman house.
rings of stakes. The urnfield
on the Bosoverheide, a
couple of kilometres west of
The Urnfield the Weert, was, around 800
In 1991, an urnfield dating BC, one of the largest burial
grounds in northwestern
from 600 BC was discovered
Europe. Roman finds can be
at Someren near Brabant. It
seen in places like Oudheden
had been ploughed under in Leiden (see p221) and the
by farmers during the Valkhof museum in Nijmegen
Middle Ages. The dead were (see p347). The Archeon
cremated in southern archaeological theme park
Holland from 1500 BC, and in Alphen a/d Rijn (see p426)
in northern Holland from is highly informative and
1000 BC. The burial mounds entertaining, for adults and
of Someren were arranged children alike.
closely together, and each
contained its own urn.
Fibula from
Dorestad
Relief showing a
295 Constantius Chlorus defeats the Franks at Roman galley
the battle of the Rhine delta, but allows them
to remain in the Betuwe, where they are used 600700 Dorestad becomes an
to defend the frontiers important trading settlement
350400 Romans 500 The territory of the Frisians stretches Frankish denarii
leave the Low from the Zwin in Zeeland Flanders to the
Countries mouth of the Weser in Germany
THE HISTORY OF THE NETHERLANDS 49
T
ECH
FR
TR
ND
U
OM
LL A
nominally under the rule of the German king, but in SD
HO
BI
Utrecht
practice local nobles ran things themselves. In the north, ZEELAND GELRE
BRABANT
the counts of Holland were the most powerful. In the mid- ERE N
Antwerpen
D
AN
14th century, their territory fell into the hands of the House VL
A
EN
UW
NE G O
of Bavaria. Disunity between Margaretha of Bavaria and her HE
son William marked the beginning of the dispute between The Low Countries (1300)
the Hooks and the Cods, which split towns as well as noble German Empire
families for one and a half centuries. France
Minting Coins
Minting rights lay
not only with the Pilgrims who had The sheriff, with his
sovereign. Local visited Santiago de distinctive chain of bells,
rulers, both church Compostela, well was the representative of the
and secular, were established as a place sovereign. Here he is on the
of pilgrimage by the 11th way to pronounce a death
entitled to mint coins. century, wore the scallop sentence, which is shown by
shell of the apostle the red pole, the rod of justice,
St James on their hats. carried by an executioner.
Cruel Punishment
In the Middle Ages, Where to See the Late
barbaric punishments
were often meted out.
Medieval Netherlands
This cask on the wall of Famous monuments from this period are
the Waag in Deventer the Oude Kerk in Amsterdam (14th century,
was once used to see pp845) and the Begijnhof, which has the
immerse counterfeiters citys oldest house (1420, see p91); the Cathedral
in boiling oil. Tower (1382) and the Catharijneconvent (15th
century) in Utrecht (see p206); the Onze-Lieve-
Vrouwebasiliek (11th12th centuries) and
Grain brought by farmers to the towns the St-Servaasbasiliek (11th15th centuries) in
was inspected by officials. Produce in Maastricht (see p381); the 13th-century Ridderzaal
the meat and fish markets was also and the 14th-century Gevangenpoort in The
inspected daily. An excise tax was Hague (see p224); the Pieterskerk (15th century)
charged on the basis of the inspection. and the town walls of the 12th-century castle in
Leiden (see p221); the Lange Jan (14th century,
see p253) and the restored abbey (11th15th
centuries) in Middelburg (see p254); the centre of
Deventer around the Brink and Bergkerk, including
the oldest stone house in Holland (see p324); and
the Martinitoren in Groningen (1469, see p286).
Silver Chalice
As guilds
prospered,
they attached
increasing
importance to
appearances. This
chalice is decorated with
a picture of St George
defending a maiden
against the dragon.
A Medieval Town
Demands of trade and industry meant
that towns were given all kinds of
privileges from the 13th century onwards.
Often important allies for the counts of
Holland against local feudal lords, Dutch The Guild of St George (1533)
towns were more powerful than in other This painting by Cornelis Antonisz shows
countries during this period because of the marksmen at a meal. Originally, each guild was
lack of a powerful central authority. responsible for protecting a part of the city walls;
later, special guilds were set up.
VOC Plaque
The Dutch East India Company
(VOC) obtained sole rights to
trade for the republic in Asia. It The Silver Fleet
had the authority to make In 1628, Piet Hein captured
treaties with other powers and the Silver Fleet of Spain off
even to declare war. the north coast of Cuba.
THE HISTORY OF THE NETHERLANDS 53
Calvinism
From the end of the 1500s, Calvinism took hold in
the Netherlands as Protestant opposition to Spanish
Catholic rule. Amsterdam, which had sided with Spain,
switched loyalties in 1578 to become the fiercely
Protestant capital of an infant Dutch Republic. Reformed
Church doctrine was to have a profound influence on
Dutch history. Strict living and industriousness became
ingrained in the character of Calvinists as well as of
Catholics and agnostics and was instrumental in the
countrys prosperity during the Golden Age.
The leaders of
the Iconoclastic
Riots came from
all classes of the
population. In
addition to
fervent Calvinists,
there were also
paid helpers and
all kinds of
hangers-on
who used the
opportunity
to do some
plundering.
Clandestine Churches
When, in 1597, the Union of Utrecht proclaimed mandatory Calvinist
services throughout the Netherlands and Zeeland, a blind eye in return
for payment was turned to other confessions. Catholics, Remonstrants
and Mennonites held their services in secret churches, which were
unrecognizable as such from the outside. They were generally held in
town houses, although later they were held in secret churches that were
built for the purpose, particularly in Amsterdam, with De Zon and De
Rode Hoed. The St Gertrudiskapel (1645) in Utrecht and Ons Lieve Heer
op Solder (1663, now the Amstelkring Museum) in Amsterdam are the
Ons Lieve Heer op Solder finest surviving early examples of these institutions.
58 INTRODUCING THE NETHERLANDS
William I Landing
at Scheveningen
In 1813, almost 20 years after the House of
Orange had been ousted by the patriots,
Prince William returned to the Netherlands.
He landed on the shore at Scheveningen,
the same place where his father had
departed for England. Two days later, he
was inaugurated as sovereign. In 1815, he
also claimed possession of present-day
Belgium and pronounced himself king of
the Netherlands.
Goejanverwellesluis
In 1785, the patriots took power, and
the stadholder William V and his wife
Wilhelmina of Prussia fled from The Hague.
Wilhelmina attempted to return in 1787
but was stopped at Goejanverwellesluis.
It was at this point that the Prussian king The prince is lowered from the ship in a rowboat, but a
farmers wagon from the beach picks him up to take him
decided to send troops to restore the
ashore through the surf.
power of the stadholder.
The church
of the fishing
village of
Scheveningen
is visible in the
background. Dr Schaepman Dr Kuyper
Child Labour
The Industrial Revolution led to social deprivation in
the towns. In 1875, Van Houtens child law was passed,
prohibiting children under age 12 from working as
paid labourers.
The people of The Hague were overjoyed at the return
of the prince. Celebrations were held throughout the
town. The times during which the House of Orange had
been regarded as a clique of tyrants were definitely over.
Domela
Nieuwenhuis
1830 The Belgian 1848 Revision of
1806 Louis Napoleon, 1888 First socialist,
Revolution. Nine years the constitution
brother of Napoleon I, 1885 Van Gogh paints Domela Nieuwenhuis,
later, the Netherlands and introduction of
becomes king of Holland The Potato Eaters elected to Parliament
and Belgium separate parliamentary system
Colonialism
Dutch colonial history started in the 17th century when trading
settlements were established in Asia, Africa and America. Many
colonies were lost during the course of time, but the Dutch Indies
(Indonesia), Suriname and the Dutch Antilles remained under Dutch
rule until far into the 20th century. In the Indonesian archipelago,
Dutch power was for a long time limited to Java and the Moluccas.
It was only in 1870 that a start was made on subjugating the
remaining islands. Indonesia gained independence in 1949 and
Tortured Slave
Suriname in 1975. The Antilles, Aruba and the Netherlands are now Rebellion was
equal parts of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. cruelly punished.
Slave Market in
Suriname
In total, over 300,000
slaves were shipped to
Session of the Landraad
This landraad, or joint court, is
the Dutch colony of
presided over by the assistant Suriname to work the
resident. The landraad was plantations. The slave
the civil and criminal common- trade was abolished in
law court for native Indonesians 1819, though slavery
and all non-European foreigners itself was not abolished
in the Dutch Indies. The court until 1863, making
could, with government approval, Holland the last Western
inflict the death penalty. European power to do so.
THE HISTORY OF THE NETHERLANDS 61
Multatuli
The writer Multatuli, in his
novel from 1860, Max
Havelaar, condemned
colonial rule in the Dutch
Indies. In the books final
chapter, the author
directly addresses King
William III, in whose name
the people of the Indies
Batavia During the 17th Century were being exploited.
This painting by Andries Beeckman shows
the fish market with the Kasteel in the
background, from which the Dutch ruled
over the strategic Sunda Strait.
1940 On 10 May,
Nazi troops
enter Holland.
Rotterdam
capitulates on
14 May. Despite
this, the city
is bombed
THE HISTORY OF THE NETHERLANDS 63
2004 On 2
1992 Under Dutch
November,
presidency, the
1980 The KVP, ARP controversial
European partners
and CHU combine filmmaker Theo 2013 Willem-Alexander
sign the draft
to form the CDA, Van Gogh is becomes king of the
Maastricht Treaty in
the large Christian murdered by a Netherlands
1991. In 1992, the
Democratic Party radical Islamist,
treaty, under which
spurring a national
the European
debate on
Community
immigration
becomes the
European Union, 2002 Right-wing politician
is ratified Pym Fortuyn is assassinated
on 6 May
2001 The Netherlands is
the first country to legalize
same-sex marriages
Bloemgracht
There is a great variety of
architecture along this lovely,
tree-lined canal in the Jordaan,
including a row of houses
with step gables.
CANAL
RING
Prinsengracht
The best way to see
all the beautiful
buildings along
Amsterdams longest
17th-century canal
is by bicycle.
MUSEUM
QUARTER
Leidsegracht
Relax at a pavement Keizersgracht
caf along the exclusive A view of this canal can
Leidsegracht. be had from any of
its bridges. If frozen in
winter, this canal is
used for ice skating by
many Amsterdammers,
both young and old.
Faades of buildings along the Damrak canal
INTRODUCING AMSTERDAM 67
Singel
The Poezenboot, a boat for stray
cats, is just one of the many
sights to be found along the
Singel, whose distinctive,
curved shape established the
horseshoe contours of the
Canal Ring.
Entrepotdok
The warehouses on the
Entrepotdok (see p138)
were redeveloped in the
1980s. The quayside is now
lined in summer with lively
caf terraces that overlook
an array of houseboats and
pleasure craft.
NIEUWE
ZIJDE
OUDE
ZIJDE
Herengracht
Known as the twin brothers,
these matching neck-gabled
houses at Nos. 409411 are
two of the prettiest houses on
the citys grandest canal.
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Reguliersgracht
Many crooked, brick
buildings line this pretty
canal, which was cut in 1664.
The statue of a stork, located
at No. 92, is symbolic of Amstel
parental responsibility and This river is still a busy thoroughfare,
commemorates a 1571 with barges and, above all, many
bylaw protecting this bird. sightseeing boats.
68 AMSTERDAM
Self-Portrait as
the Apostle Paul (1661)
Rembrandt (see p80) was
one of many artists working
in Amsterdam in the mid-
17th century.
Delft Tiles
Delicate flower paintings were
popular themes on 17th-century
Delft tiles (see pp323), used as
decoration in wealthy households.
INTRODUCING AMSTERDAM 69
VOC
In the
Scheepvaart
Museum (see
pp1367), an
entire room is
dedicated to
the Dutch East
India Company.
Amsterdam Museum
A wealth of historical
information is on display here.
Once an orphanage for boys,
it is depicted in Governesses at
the Burgher Orphanage (1683)
by Adriaen Backer (see pp967).
Rijksmuseum
An extensive collection of
paintings by Dutch masters
can be seen in the
countrys largest national
museum. Jan van Huysums
CANAL
Still Life with Fruit and
RING
Flowers, dating from about
1730, is a fine example
(see pp1269).
MUSEUM
QUARTER
Stedelijk Museum
Gerrit Rietvelds simple Steltman chair
(1963) is one of many exhibits at this
modern art museum (see pp1323).
Koninklijk Paleis
The royal palace on
the Dam, a former
town hall designed
in 1648 by Jacob van
Campen, is still
regularly used today
by the queen on
official occasions
(see pp923).
NEMO Science Museum
This amazing building, designed in
the form of a ship, overhangs the
water by 30 m (99 ft) and houses an
educational centre for science and
technology (see pp14041).
NIEUWE
ZIJDE
Scheepvaart Museum
OUDE This maritime museum is
ZIJDE decorated with reliefs relating to
the citys maritime history. Moored
alongside is a replica of the East
Indiaman, Amsterdam, which is
open to the public (see pp1367).
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Verzetsmuseum
Located in the Plantage, this
museum documents and
Joods Historisch Museum commemorates the activities
Four adjoining synagogues are linked of Dutch Resistance workers
to form this museum (see p81). in World War II (see p145).
72 AMSTERDAM
Caf Chris
This brown caf,
allegedly the oldest
caf in the Jordaan,
is patronized
by regular
customers (artists
and students).
CANAL
Walem RING
This designer eatery, one of
Amsterdams oldest cafs,
has a sunny canal terrace
and is popular with the
international crowd.
MUSEUM
QUARTER
Groot Melkhuis
Originally a farm dating back to
1874, this modern caf is very
popular, especially on warm
summer days.
Hoppe
The dark wooden interior and tang
of cigar smoke in the air are the
essence of this classic brown caf,
situated on the lively Spui.
INTRODUCING AMSTERDAM 73
Karpershoek
This lively caf (the oldest caf in
Amsterdam) is close to the Centraal
Station and is frequented by travellers
looking for a cup of coffee.
Kapitein Zeppos
This caf, frequented by
trendy Amsterdammers,
NIEUWE
often hosts live concerts
ZIJDE on Sunday afternoons.
OUDE
ZIJDE
De Jaren
Popular with students,
0 metres 500 this trendy two-storey
0 yards 500 caf has a superb view of
the Amstel and a wide
selection of newspapers.
0 kilometres 3
0 miles 3
OUDE ZIJDE
The eastern half of Amsterdam became of Jewish refugees from Portugal. The oldest
known as the Oude Zijde (Old Side). of the four synagogues, now containing the
Originally it occupied a narrow strip on Joods Historisch Museum, dates from this
the east bank of the Amstel river, running period. These were central to Jewish life
between Damrak and the Oudezijds in the city for centuries. During the Golden
Voorburgwal. At its heart was built the Oude Age (see pp545), the Oude Zijde was an
Kerk, the oldest church in the city. In the important commercial centre. Boats could
early 15th century the Oude Zijde began an sail up the Geldersekade to Nieuwmarkt,
eastward expansion that continued into the where goods were weighed at the Waag
1600s. This growth was fuelled by an influx before being sold at the market.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Opera Houses t Portugees-Isralitische Synagoge
Monuments q Stadhuis-Muziektheater a Oude Kerk pp845
2 Waag Museums Streets and Markets
5 Agnietenkapel 1 Red Light District
4 Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum
6 Oudemanhuispoort 3 Nieuwmarkt
0 Museum het Rembrandthuis
7 De Waalse Kerk w Waterlooplein
r Joods Historisch Museum
8 Trippenhuis p Zeedijk
y Pintohuis Churches and Synagogues
u Montelbaanstoren 9 Zuiderkerk
i Scheepvaarthuis e Mozes en Aronkerk
o Schreierstoren
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0 metres 250
0 yards 250
The impressive Oude Kerk, Amsterdams oldest building For map symbols see back flap
76 AMSTERDAM
4 Hash Marihuana
Hemp Museum
This museum
showcases
L
L
A
marijuana
W
A
through
G
W
R
the ages.
U
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7 De Waalse Kerk
Built in the early
ZI
5 Agnietenkapel
Like many buildings in this
area, the chapel belongs to
the University of Amsterdam.
6 Oudemanhuispoort
The spectacles carved on the
gateway into this 18th-century
almshouse for elderly men Lift bridge over
symbolize old age. Groenburgwal
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
OUDE ZIJDE 77
3 Nieuwmarkt
8 Trippenhuis Despite redevelopment NIEUWE
Although it appears to southeast of this once- ZUIDE
2 . Waag
RS
9 Zuiderkerk
This prominent city landmark
is now used as a wedding and
conference venue.
RA Key
AM
GR
AC Recommended route
HT
L
AL
W
A
A
W
P L T E
GW
R
RG
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UR
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0 metres 50
EN
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0 yards 50
A
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GR
0 . Museum het
Rembrandthuis
Hundreds of
Rembrandts etchings
are on display in the
artists former home.
78 AMSTERDAM
The 15th-century Waag dominating the Nieuwmarkt, with an antique market on the right
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
OUDE ZIJDE 79
7 De Waalse Kerk
Walenpleintje 157159. Map 2 D5.
Tel 020-6232074. v 4, 9, 14, 16.
q Nieuwmarkt. Open for service
and events only. 5 11am Sun.
8 Trippenhuis
Kloveniersburgwal 29. Map 2 E5.
v 4, 9, 14, 16. q Nieuwmarkt.
Closed to the public.
o Schreierstoren
Prins Hendrikkade 9495. Map 2 E4.
v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 11, 13, 16, 17. q Centraal
Station. Closed to the public.
a Oude Kerk
The origins of the Oude Kerk date from the early 13th century,
when a wooden church was built on a sand bank. The present
Gothic structure is 14th century and has grown from a single-
aisled church into a basilica. As it expanded, the building
became a gathering place for traders and a refuge for the poor.
Paintings and statuary were destroyed after the Alteration in
1578, but the gilded ceiling and stained-glass windows remain.
The Great Organ was added in 1724, and there are two other
fine organs in this lovely church, also home to the tomb of
Rembrandts wife, Saskia.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
OUDE ZIJDE 85
. Lady Chapel
(1552)
The Death of the
Virgin Mary by Dirk
Crabeth is one of
three restored
stained-glass
windows in the
Lady Chapel.
Brocaded Pillars
Decorative pillars
originally formed niches
holding a series of statues
of the Apostles, all
destroyed by the
iconoclasts in 1578.
KEY
NIEUWE ZIJDE
The western side of medieval Amsterdam sprang up. The interesting Amsterdam
was known as the Nieuwe Zijde (New Side). Museum, which is now housed in a
Together with the Oude Zijde it formed splendid former orphanage, has scores
the heart of the early maritime settlement. of maps and paintings charting the
Nieuwendijk, today a busy shopping street, growth of the city from these times to the
was originally one of the earliest sea present day. One room is devoted to the
defences. As Amsterdam grew, it expanded Miracle of Amsterdam, which made the
eastwards, leaving large sections of the city a place of pilgrimage, and brought
Nieuwe Zijde, to the west, neglected and commerce to the Nieuwe Zijde. Nearby lies
in decline. With its many wooden houses, Kalverstraat, Amsterdams main shopping
the city was prone to fires and in 1452 street, and also the secluded Begijnhof.
much of the area was burned down. This pretty courtyard is mostly fringed by
During rebuilding, a broad moat, the narrow 17th-century houses, but it also
Singel, was cut, along which warehouses, contains the citys oldest surviving
rich merchants homes and fine quays wooden house.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings, Monuments
and Bridges D
E
2 Koninklijk Paleis pp923 RU
IJ
4 Nationaal Monument TE
RK
9 Torensluis A
KT D
0 Magna Plaza AR E
OM
w Centraal Station
R
KATTENGAT ST
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Churches LAA PLEIN
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MAGRACH
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1 Nieuwe Kerk
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Museums
RB
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Scenerama
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6 Amsterdam Museum
RA
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N. NIEUWESTR
ST
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pp967
UI
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8 Allard Pierson
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Museum
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maps 1, 2 & 5
NIEUW
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D
Visitors at the Amsterdam Museum on Kalverstraat For map symbols see back flap
88 AMSTERDAM
6 . Amsterdam
Museum
Wall plaques and maps Kalverstraat
showing the walled This busy tourist shopping area
medieval city are on took its name from the livestock
display in this converted market which was regularly held
orphanage that dates here during the 15th century.
from the 16th century.
7 . Begijnhof
Two churches and one of the few ST.
LUC
remaining wooden houses in the IN
city nestle in this secluded, tree- STE
EG
filled courtyard.
IN
K
O
R
S P
U I
Key
Recommended route
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
NIEUWE ZIJDE 89
1 . Nieuwe Kerk
The carved and gilded ceiling above the CANAL RING
choir was one of the few sections to survive NIEUWE
ZUIDE
the great fire of 1645.
OUIDE
ZIJDE
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 1 & 2
K
A
R
PA M
A
LE D
IS
ST
RA
AT DAM St Nicolaas wall
statue, depicting
Amsterdams
patron saint, is
thought to date
from the 15th
century.
T
A
A
R
T
S
R
E
V
L
A
K
4 Nationaal
Monument
Two heraldic stone
lions represent the
Netherlands on
N
this imposing
I
K
memorial to
O
R
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
1 Nieuwe Kerk
Dam. Map 1 C4. Tel 020-6386909.
v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17.
Open during exhibitions only (phone
to check). Closed 27 Apr. & 7 -
nieuwekerk.nl
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
NIEUWE ZIJDE 91
Begijnhof Houses
These are still occupied by
single women.
Spui entrance
Engelse Kerk
Houten House This church was built around
No. 34 is Amsterdams oldest house, 1419 for the Begijntjes. It
dating from around 1420. It is one of was confiscated after the
the citys two wooden-fronted houses; Alteration and rented to a
timber houses were banned in 1521 group of English and Scottish
after a series of catastrophic fires. Most Presbyterians in 1607. The
of the Begijnhof houses were built Pilgrim Fathers may have
after the 16th century. worshipped here.
92 AMSTERDAM
Sculptures
Chamber of the
Thesaurie Ordinaris
Mayors office
. Burgerzaal
The Burgerzaal (citizens hall) has Mayors
an inlaid marble floor depicting chamber
the two hemispheres (western
and eastern). View of the Dam and
the Vierschaar
Court of Justice
. Sculptures
The palace is decorated with
a large number of sculptures
of mainly allegorical figures.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
NIEUWE ZIJDE 93
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Aldermans hall
Dam. Map 1 C4.
Tel 020-6204060.
paleisamsterdam.nl
Open Jul & Aug: daily;
Courtyard SepMay: regularly, check
website for details. & 9 7
8 on request. =
Transport
v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14,
16, 17.
The Newly Built Town Hall on the
River Amstel
This painting by Jan van der Heyden
(16371712) shows the city hall,
with the Nieuwe Kerk (see p90)
in the background.
North gallery
Insolvency
auction room
Bronze Entrance Gates to
Insurance the Burgerzaal
chamber The approach to these
magnificent gates, up a flight
of stairs from street level, made
the entrance to the Burgerzaal
even more imposing.
. Vroedschapszaal
This hall, the Council
Hall of the city
Institution fathers, has two fine
managing fireplaces with
property of mantelpieces by
orphans Govert Flinck and
Han van Bronckhorst.
The grisailles from
1738 are the work
of Jacob de Wit.
2013 Willem-Alexander
1648 1720 1810 Complete refurbishment of the becomes King of the
Construction Interior palace, with galleries divided up into Netherlands and gives
begins decoration rooms with wood partitions; the rooms a speech from the
under Jacob completed are furnished in Empire style palace balcony with
van Campen Princess Beatrix
1600 1700 1800 1900 2000
6 Amsterdam Museum
The convent of St Lucien was turned into a civic orphanage two years
after the Alteration of 1578. The original red-brick convent has been
Lecture
enlarged over the years; new wings were added in the 17th century
room
by Hendrick de Keyser and Jacob van Campen. The present building is
largely as it was in the 18th century. Since 1975 the complex has housed
the citys historical museum, charting Amsterdams development.
Kalverstraat main
entrance (to the
Orphans Relief (1581) Begijnhof)
The crooked relief
above the gateway to
Kalverstraat is a copy
of Joost Bilhamers
original (on display in Goliath (c.1650)
the main entrance hall). This massive statue is
Its inscription asks people one of a trio of biblical
to contribute to the figures dominating the
upkeep of the orphans. museums caf.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
NIEUWE ZIJDE 97
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Kalverstraat 92, NZ Voorburgwal
357, St-Lucinsteeg 27
Map 1 C5.
Tel 020-5231822.
ahm.nl
Open 10am5pm daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec.
&78-0=
Transport
v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14,
16, 17.
. Civic Guard
Gallery
This painting
(1557) shows
17 soldiers of the
Civic Guard who
belonged to Rot F
(F squad).
Ground floor
17th-century red
Entrance in girls
brick faade
courtyard
Entrance on
Nieuwezijds
Voorburgwal
CANAL RING
In the early 1600s, construction of the classes bought land along the Herengracht,
Grachtengordel (canal ring) began and Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht to escape
the marshy area beyond these fashionable the citys squalor. In the 1660s, the richest
canals, later called the Jordaan, was laid out built houses on a stretch known today as
for workers whose industries were prohibited the Golden Bend. The canal ring was also
in the centre. Immigrants fleeing religious extended east to the Amstel. Houses here,
persecution also settled here. Historically a like the Van Loon, convey a sense of life in
poor area, it now has a bohemian air. As the the Golden Age. In 2010, the canal ring was
major canals were extended, the merchant declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Sights at a Glance
0 metres 500 Historic Buildings and
Monuments
0 yards 500
4 Huis met de Hoofden
6 Haarlemmerpoort
WE
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0 American Hotel
STE
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A AT
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IXSTR
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BR RA
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KS
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EM CH
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GO I N D E
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See also Street Finder ER
SK S TA D H
ADE
maps 1, 2, 4 & 5
Row of houses along the banks of one of the citys canals For map symbols see back flap
100 AMSTERDAM
A Guide to Canal
House Architecture
Amsterdam has been called a city of well-mannered architecture
because its charms lie in intimate details rather than in grand effects.
From the 15th century on, planning laws, plot sizes and the instability
of the topsoil dictated that faades were largely uniform in size and
built of lightweight brick or sandstone, with large windows to reduce
the weight. Canal house owners stamped their own individuality on
the buildings, mainly through the use of decorative gables and
cornices, ornate doorcases and varying window shapes.
Ground Plans
Taxes were levied
Bartolotti House (1617) Felix Meritis Building (1778) according to width of
The contrasting brick and stone, The Corinthian columns and faade, so canal houses
flamboyant step gable, with its triangular pediment are influenced were often long and
marble obelisk and scrolls, is typical by Classical architecture. This marks narrow, with an achterhuis
of the Dutch Renaissance style of the building by Jacob Otten Husly (back annexe) used for
Hendrick de Keyser (see p114). as Dutch Classical in style. offices and storage.
Cornices
Decorative top
mouldings, called
cornices, became
popular from 1690
onwards when the
fashion for gables
declined. By the 19th
century, they had Louis XV-style with rococo 19th-century cornice 19th-century dentil
become unadorned. balustrade (1739) with mansard roof (tooth-shaped) cornice
Gables Warehouse-style
spout gable Dutch
The term gable refers Simple Renaissance
to the front apex of a roof. triangular gable style
It disguised the steepness
of the roof under which
goods were stored. In
time, gables became
decorated with scrolls,
crests, and even with No. 34 Begijnhof The style of gable on Step gables like the one
coats of arms. (c.1420) is one of No. 213 Leliegracht on No. 2 Brouwersgracht
the few remaining (c.1620) was used for were in vogue between
timber houses. warehouses. 16001665.
A GUIDE TO CANAL HOUSE ARCHITECTURE 101
Golden Bend
The stretch of the Herengracht between Leidenstraat and Vijzelstraat
was first called the Golden Bend in the 17th century, because of the
great wealth of the ship-builders, merchants and politicians who
originally lived here. The majority of the buildings along this stretch
are faced with imported sandstone, which was more expensive than
brick. An excellent example is house No. 412, which was designed
by Philips Vingboons in 1664. He was also responsible for the design
of the Witte Huis at Herengracht
No. 168 as well as Bijbels Museum
at Herengracht 366. Building
continued into the 18th century,
with the Louis XIV style pre-
dominating. The house at
No. 475, with its ornate window
decoration, is typical of this trend.
Built in 1730, it is often called
Leaning Faades the jewel of canal houses. Two
Canal houses were often built with a sculpted female figures over the
deliberate tilt, allowing goods to be front door adorn its monumental
winched up to the attic without sandstone faade.
crashing against the windows. A law
dating from 1565 restricted this lean Ground plan and faade of the
to 1:25, to limit the risk of buildings building at Herengracht 168
collapsing into the streets.
No. 419 Singel has a No. 119 Oudezijds No. 57 Leliegracht No. 298 Oudezijds
neck gable, a common Voorburgwal has an has a plain bell gable, Voorburgwal has a bell
feature from 1640 to ornate 17th-century popular from the late gable dating from the
around 1840. neck gable. 17th century. 18th century.
102 AMSTERDAM
Singel
No. 239 Singel The double-fronted 17th The step gable at No. 279 Singel
AL Van Gendt designed century canal house at dates from the 19th century
this massive stone office No. 265 Singel has been most along this canal were built
block for trader Julius rebuilt several times since between 16001665.
Carle Bunge. Known it was first constructed.
as the Bungehuis, it was
completed in 1934. The three neck gables on
Nos. 3537 Keizersgracht date Huidenstraat
from the early 18th century.
Directions to
Herengracht
Turn left on to
Leidsestraat, and walk
to Koningsplein, then
take the left bank of the
Herengracht eastwards
towards Thorbeckeplein.
Herengracht
104 AMSTERDAM
Keizersgracht The un
This photograph of the emperors No. 313
canal is taken at dusk, from the corner in 1914
of Leidsegracht. The Westerkerk
(see p114) is in the distance.
Directions To
Keizersgracht
At Raamsteeg, cross
the bridge, take the
Oude Spiegelstraat, cross
Herengracht and walk
along Wolvenstraat to the
left bank of Keizersgracht.
Keizersgracht
Herengracht 489 to
the Amstel H ER EN
KE IZ ER
G RA C
HT
SG RA
REGULIE RSGRAC HT
The second half of the walk takes you along Herengracht, CHT
Herengracht
The house at No. 491 No. 493 Herengracht The Kattenk
Herengracht was built This 17th-century house No. 497 Here
in 1671. The faade, was given a Louis XV-style was created
rebuilt in the 18th faade in 1767 by Anthony B Meijer in 1
century, is decorated van Hemert. devoted to e
with scrolls, vases and featuring the
coats of arms.
Directions to
Reguliersgracht
At Thorbeckeplein,
take the bridge to the
right, which marks
the beginning of
Reguliersgracht.
Follow the left bank.
Reguliersgracht
Restaurant Nel
The Amstelkerk (Amstel
Church) now houses a
restaurant and offices,
while the square is a
popular playground for
children from the
Amstelveld in the 17th Century
surrounding area.
This etching shows the construction of
a wooden church at Amstelveld, with
sheep grazing in front of it.
Directions to
Prinsengracht
Turn left by the church,
take the left bank of
Prinsengracht and walk
to the Amstel river. Prinsengracht
A C ANAL WALK 107
Riots in 1696
Jan Six II No. 507
The faade of No. 495 Herengracht was
Herengracht was rebuilt the home of
mayor Jacob
AMS
by Jean Coulon in
1739 for burgomaster was looted in
and art expert Jan Six. retaliation for the
burial tax he
introduced into
the city.
Vijzelstraat
Herengracht (1790)
Tsar Peter (see p105) stayed
A delicate watercolour
at No. 527 Herengracht,
by J Prins shows the
home of the Russian
gentlemens canal
ambassador, after a night of
from Koningsplein.
drunken revelry at No. 317
Keizersgracht in 1716.
Keizersgracht
My Domestic Companions
Nos. 1059 and 1061 Prinsengracht Society portraitist Thrse van
have tiny basement entrances, rare amid Duyl Schwartze painted this
the splendour of the Canal Ring, where picture in 1916. She owned
the height of the steps was considered Nos. 1087, 1089 and 1091
an indication of wealth. Prinsengracht, a handsome
The sober spout-gabled building row of houses where she lived
at No. 1075 Prinsengracht was built with her extended family.
as a warehouse in 1690.
A C ANAL WALK 109
Herengracht (c.1670)
GA Berckheijdes etching shows one side of
the canal bare of trees. Elms were later
planted, binding the topsoil, to strengthen
the buildings foundations.
Reguliers
Isaac Gosschalk Monastery
The architect designed Nos. 57, This engraving
59 and 63 Reguliersgracht in by J Wagenaar
1879. They have ornate (1760) shows the
stone, brick and monastery that once
woodwork faades. stood on the canal.
The Amstel
Turn left and follow
the broad sweep of
the Amstel river, up
past the Magere Brug,
on up Rokin and back
to the Dam, where the
walk began.
110 AMSTERDAM
T
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The quiet
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Locator Map
See Street Finder map 1
T
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Key
2. Homomonument
Recommended route The pink triangle used
to brand homosexual
men during World War II
influenced the design
of this memorial to
0 metres 75
oppressed gay men and
0 yards 75 women everywhere.
It was unveiled in
September 1987.
112 AMSTERDAM
KEY
1 Bathroom
2 Annes bedroom
3 Frank family bedroom
4 Van Pels familys room
5 Attic
6 The annexe
7 Faade of Prinsengracht 263
8 Main building housing offices
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Prinsengracht 267. Map 1 B4.
Tel 020-5567105.
annefrank.org
Open AprOct: 9am10pm daily;
NovMar: 9am7pm daily (to
9pm Sat). Closed Yom Kippur.
& check website for details.
^8-=
Transport
v 13, 14, 17. @
The Helpers
The people in hiding were wholly
dependent on their helpers, all
of whom were close colleagues
of Annes father, Otto Frank. From
left to right: Miep Gies, Johannes
Kleiman, Otto Frank, Victor
Kugler and Bep Voskuijl.
Museum Guide
The rear annexe is accessible via the reconstructed
offices of Otto Frank. The building beside Anne
Frank Huis holds various exhibitions. It also
houses a caf, shop and information desk.
0 American Hotel
Leidsekade 97. Map 4 E2. Tel 020-
5563000. v 1, 2, 5, 7, 10. 0 -
On the Canals
Though Amsterdams canals were built for moving
goods, today they provide a marvellous means of
viewing the citys sights and its everyday life. There
are many operators in the city offering canal tours
with foreign-language commentaries; boats depart
from an embarkation point, mainly from opposite
Centraal Station, along Prins Hendrikkade, the
Damrak and along the Rokin. Another canal-
sightseeing option is the popular canalbus which
runs along three routes, with 14 stops near the
major museums, shopping areas and other
attractions. If you feel energetic, try a canal bike,
which is really a two- or four-seater pedal-boat that
can be picked up and left at any of the canal-bike
moorings in the city centre.
118 AMSTERDAM
y Rembrandtplein
Map 5 A2. v 4, 9, 14.
u Museum Willet-
Holthuysen
Herengracht 605. Map 5 A2. Tel 020-
5231822. v 4, 9, 14. Open 10am
5pm MonFri, 11am5pm Sat & Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. 8 &
= willetholthuysen.nl Two of the many outdoor cafs on Rembrandtplein
Named after the buildings last Louisa and her art-connoisseur i Magere Brug
residents, the museum now husband, Abraham Willet both
Amstel. Map 5 B3. v 4.
housed here allows visitors a fervent collectors of paintings,
glimpse into the lives of the glass, silver and ceramics. When Of Amsterdams 1,400 or so
merchant class who lived in Louisa died childless in 1895, the bridges, Magere Brug (skinny
luxury along the Grachtengordel house and its many treasures bridge) is the best-known.
(Canal Ring). The house was were left to the city. Room by The original drawbridge was
built in 1685 and became the room, the house is gradually built in about 1670. According
property of coal magnate Pieter being restored to appear as it to legend, it was named after
Holthuysen (17881858) in did during the time when two sisters called Mager,
1855. It passed to his daughter Abraham and Louisa lived here. who lived either side of the
The Blue Room, hung with Amstel. It is more likely that
heavy blue damask and boasting the name comes from its
a chimney piece by Jacob de narrow (mager) design.
Wit, was the exclusive preserve
of the men of the house.
The wallpaper in the dining
room today is a careful copy
of the 18th-century silk original.
The elaborate 275-piece Meissen
dinner service provided up to
24 places.
The 18th-century kitchen
has been restored using items
salvaged from similar houses,
including the sink and pump.
Interior of Willet-Holthuysen museum, on On the second floor is a full- Magere Brug, a traditional double-leaf
the Herengracht canal length portrait of Willet. Dutch drawbridge
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
CANAL RING 119
MUSEUM QUARTER
Until the late 1800s, the Museum Quarter Museumplein has two memorials to the
was little more than an area of farms and victims of World War II. The plein is still used
small-holdings. At this time, the city council today as a site for political demonstrations.
designated it an area of art and culture and To the north and south are late 19th-
plans were conceived for constructing and early 20th-century houses, where
Amsterdams great cultural monuments: the streets are named after artists and
the Rijksmuseum, the Stedelijk Museum intellectuals, such as the 17th-century
and the Concertgebouw. The Van Gogh Dutch poet Roemer Visscher. To the west,
Museum followed in 1973, its striking the Vondelpark offers a pleasant, fresh-air
extension being added in 1999. The break from all the museums.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Workshops Historic Buildings
1 Rijksmuseum pp1269 7 Hollandsche Manege
2 Coster Diamonds 8 Vondelkerk
3 Van Gogh Museum pp13031
Parks
4 Stedelijk Museum pp1323
9 Vondelparkpaviljoen 6 Vondelpark
Concert Halls
5 Concertgebouw
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Rembrandts famous painting, The Night Watch, at the Rijksmuseum For map symbols see back flap
122 AMSTERDAM
HO
NT
Van Baerlestraat
HO
contains exclusive
clothing shops (see p148).
RS
TS
VA
TR
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4 . Stedelijk AT
ES
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Museum ST
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Housing the civic TE
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collection of modern S
LU
art, this museum also U
PA
stages controversial
contemporary art
exhibitions. A sculpture
garden is behind
the building.
VA
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ER
LE
ST
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AT
5 Concertgebouw
Designed by AL van Gendt,
the building has a Classical
faade and a concert hall
with near-perfect acoustics.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
MUSEUM QUARTER 123
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 4
1 . Rijksmuseum
The heavily ornamented
Neo-Gothic Rijksmuseum
holds the magnificent
Dutch national art
collection of some 5,000
paintings, 30,000 pieces of
M E E R S T R A AT
The Rijksmuseum is
surrounded by gardens
The Ravensbrck that contain statuary.
monument commem- This weathered bronze
orates women victims of Mercury, designed
of the Holocaust. by Ferdinand Leenhoff
(18411914), is found
Key 0 metres
in the southeast garden.
50
1 Rijksmuseum
See pp1269.
2 Coster Diamonds
Paulus Potterstraat 28. Map 4 E3.
Tel 020-3055555. v 2, 5. Open
9am5pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
8 - costerdiamonds.com
1 Rijksmuseum
The Rijksmuseum, an Amsterdam landmark, possesses Second floor
an unrivalled collection of Dutch art, begun in the
early 19th century. The huge museum opened in
1885 to bitter criticism from Amsterdams Protestant
community for its Neo-Gothic style. Also worth a visit
are the surrounding gardens, which were redesigned
to match the museums reno-
vation, completed in 2013.
. The Kitchen
Maid (1658)
The light falling through
the window and the First floor
stillness of this scene are
typical of Jan Vermeer.
Gallery Guide
The basement of the museum
houses its Special Collections
and Asian Pavilion. The ground
floor features works from the
18th and 19th centuries, the
first floor has works from the
Golden Age, while the second
floor features works from the
20th century.
Key to Floorplan
Special collections
Medieval and Renaissance art
Golden Age
18th-century art
19th-century art . St Elizabeths Day Flood (1500)
An unknown artist painted this altarpiece,
20th-century art
showing a disastrous flood in 1421. The dykes
Asian Pavilion protecting Dordrecht were breached, and 22
Non-exhibition space villages were swept away by the flood water.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
MUSEUM QUARTER 127
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Museumstraat 1. Map 4 E3.
Tel 020-6747000.
rijksmuseum.nl
Open 9am5pm daily. & ^
789=
Transport
v 2, 3, 5, 7, 10, 16.
4 Stadhouderskade.
Ground
floor
Cuypers
Library
Entrance
Jan Steens Woman at her Toilet was painted in
about 1660
Genre Painting
For the contemporaries of Jan Steen (1625
79), this cosy everyday scene was full of
Basement symbols that are obscure to the modern
viewer. The dog on the pillow may
represent fidelity, and the red stockings
the womans sexuality; she is probably a
prostitute. Such genre paintings were often
raunchy, but nearly always had a moral
twist domestic scenes by artists such
as ter Borch and Honthorst were symbolic
of brothels, while other works illustrated
proverbs. Symbols like candles or skulls
indicated mortality.
Auditorium
128 AMSTERDAM
Stairs
First floor
19th-century art
Museum Guide
Paintings from Van Goghs Dutch period and from his time in Paris Entrance =
and Provence are on the first floor. The study collection, occasional
exhibits of Van Goghs drawings and other temporary exhibitions Ground floor
are on the second floor. Works by other 19th-century artists are
on the third floor and the ground floor, where there is also a
bookshop and caf. The new wing houses temporary exhibitions.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
MUSEUM QUARTER 131
VISITORS CHECKLIST
An Artists Life
Vincent van Gogh (185390), born Practical Information
in Zundert, began painting in 1880. Paulus Potterstraat 7. Map 4 E3.
He worked in the Netherlands for five years Tel 020-5705200.
vangoghmuseum.com
before moving to Paris, later settling in Arles.
Open 10am5pm daily,
After a fierce argument with Gauguin, he cut
10am10pm Fri. Closed 1 Jan.
off part of his own ear; his mental instability &^97-0=
forced him into a psychiatric hospital in
Saint-Rmy. He sought help in Auvers, where Transport
v 2, 3, 5, 12, 16.
he shot himself, dying two days later. Van Gogh in 1871
First floor
Piet
Lift (after Delacroix) (1889)
Van Gogh painted this
work while in the
hospital at Saint-Rmy.
Stairs The figure of Christ
is thought to be a
self-portrait.
Lift
Stairs
Basement
Lift
Stairs
4 Stedelijk Museum
The Stedelijk Museum was built to house a personal
collection bequeathed to the city in 1890 by art connoisseur
Sophia de Bruyn. In 1938, the museum became the national
museum of modern art, displaying works by artists such
as Picasso, Matisse, Mondriaan, Czanne and Monet. The
buildings new wing (nicknamed the bath tub) is an art piece
in itself. The museum also organizes workshops, events and
themed guided tours.
Hendrick de Keyser
(15651621) Jacob Cornelisz van
Oostzaanen (14701533)
The Museum Building
The Neo-Renaissance building was
designed by AW Weissman (1858
1923) in 1895. The faade is adorned
with turrets and gables and with
niches containing statues of artists
and architects. It makes a striking
contrast with the spectacular new
wing by Benthem Crouwel that
houses a restaurant on the ground
floor which is also open for dinner.
Pieter Aertsen (150975) Joost Jansz Bilhamer (154190)
De Stijl Movement
The Dutch artistic movement known as De Stijl (The Style)
produced startlingly simple designs which have become icons of
20th-century abstract art. These include Gerrit Rietvelds famous
Red Blue Chair and Piet Mondriaans Composition in Red, Black,
Blue, Yellow and Grey (1920). The movement was formed in 1917
by a group of artists who espoused clarity in their work, which
embraced the mediums
of painting, architecture,
sculpture, poetry and
furniture design. Many
De Stijl artists, like Theo
van Doesburg, split from
the founding group in
the 1920s; their legacy
can be seen in the work
of the Bauhaus and
Modernist schools
which followed Composition in Red, Black, Blue, Yellow and
Gerrit Rietvelds Red Blue Chair (1918) (see pp2089). Grey by Mondriaan
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
MUSEUM QUARTER 133
Transport
v 2, 3, 5, 12, 16.
. Kazimir Malevich
(18781935)
The Russian visual artist
Kazimir Malevich can be
counted, along with Piet
Mondriaan, as one of the
Man and Animals (1949) founders of abstract art. As
Karel Appel (b. 1921) was a member of the well as paintings, Malevich
short-lived experimental Cobra movement created posters, sculptures,
(see p193). The human figure, dog fish and furniture, interior decoration
mythical creature are painted in the naive and costumes.
style of a child. After studying Futurism
Elaborate and Cubism in Moscow, he
bell tower formulated a new art form
called Suprematism, an
abstract movement known
for its experimentation with
colour. Suprematisms central
element is the theory of
unlimited pre-eminence of
free invention in the artistic
process. Up until his 20s,
Malevich painted abstract
geometric forms. The square
was his supreme element.
The Stedelijk Museum
owns the largest part of the
paintings and sketches from
Malevichs Suprematist period.
Jan van der Heyden One of the most important
Jacob van Campen
(16371712) works, Suprematisme 1920
(15951657)
1927, was defaced by a visitor
to the museum in 1997.
Thomas de Keyser
In 1999, a conflict arose
(15961667) between the Malevich estate
and the Stedelijk Museum over
the ownership of the dozens
of Suprematist works from the
Stedelijks collection.
Untitled (1965)
Jasper Johns (b. 1930) believed viewers should draw their
own conclusions from his work. This huge canvas, with its
bold rainbow (red, blue and yellow streaks and slabs), invites Self-portrait by Malevich
the viewer to think about the symbolism of colour.
AMSTERDAM 135
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Structures Museums and Zoos
2 Entrepotdok 1 Scheepvaart Museum pp1367
3 Java-eiland and KNSM-eiland 6 Werfmuseum t Kromhout
4 Muiderpoort 9 NEMO Science Museum pp14041
5 De Gooyer Windmill 0 ARTIS-Amsterdam Royal Zoo pp1423
7 Koninklijk Theater Carr w Tropenmuseum
Key
8 Amstelsluizen e Hermitage Amsterdam
q Frankendael y Verzetsmuseum Central Amsterdam
r Heineken Experience Motorway
t Huizenblok de Dageraad
Main road
u De Hallen
Minor road
Markets
Railway
i De Pijp/Albert Cuypmarkt
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Amsterdam
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Watergraafsmeer
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Replica of the Amsterdam, an East Indiaman, moored alongside the Scheepvaartmuseum For map symbols see back flap
136 AMSTERDAM
1 Scheepvaart Museum
Once the arsenal of the Dutch Navy, this vast Dutch Classical
building was designed by Danil Stalpaert in 1655. Constructed
around a massive courtyard, it was supported by thousands of
piles driven into the bed of the Oosterdok. The navy occupied
the building until the 20th century, and in 1973 it became the
Netherlands Maritime Museum. After a major renovation it
reopened in 2011; the courtyard, now covered by a vast glass
roof, forms the heart of the new exhibition space.
. Golden Age
Seven characters First
welcome you to this floor
exhibition covering
the golden era of
Dutch exploration
and trade in the 16th
and 17th centuries.
Ajax
This figurehead is from
a ship built in 1832. It
portrays Ajax, a hero of
the Trojan War, who killed
himself in despair when Classical sandstone
Achilles armour was faade
given to Odysseus.
Museum Guide
This museums exhibits reveal Dutch
maritime history. On a Virtual Sea Trip or
aboard the East Indiaman Amsterdam you
can relive the past; other exhibits tell the
stories of whaling, the Golden Age and
the port of Amsterdam. Objects on Stage
showcases the museums superb collection
of nautical paintings, navigation
instruments and antique globes.
Glass Canopy
The compass rose and
navigational lines on old sea
maps were the inspiration for Main
architect Laurent Neys criss- entrance
crossing steel armature
supporting the glass roof.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
OUTSIDE THE CENTRE 137
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Second
floor Practical Information
Kattenburgerplein 1. Map 6 D1
Tel 020-5232222.
hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl
Open 9am5pm daily. &
^70=
Transport
@ 22, 32. 4 Oosterdok,
Kattenburgergracht.
Auditorium
Steps down
to wooden
walkway
Ground
floor
The Amsterdam
Experience life aboard ship on the
Wooden replica of the Amsterdam, one
walkway of the ships that carried and
defended the rich cargoes of the
Dutch East India Company.
7 Koninklijk
Theater Carr
Amstel 115125. Map 5 B3.
Tel 0900-2525255. v 4, 7, 9, 10.
q Weesperplein. Box office:
Open noon6pm daily. See
Entertainment p151. & 8 11am
Sat (phone in advance). ^ 7 -
theatercarre.nl
Bubble-blowing
Can you fit inside a giant
bubble? Experiment with
giant rings and vats of
soapy water.
KEY
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Nemo: the Philosophy
The word nemo is Latin for no one and refers to a world between Practical Information
fantasy and reality. At NEMO visitors can become a scientist or Oosterdok 2. Map 5 C1.
technician for a day. The name has been used by a number of Tel 0205313233
important writers over the centuries to describe events and people (groups 0205313118).
who find themselves on the thin line between reality and fantasy. For nemosciencemuseum.nl
example, Nemo turns up in the Latin translation of Homers Odyssey, Open 10am5:30pm TueSun;
when the protagonist Ulysses adopts the name to deceive the Cyclops. during school holidays: 10am
And Jules Verne, in his 1870 novel 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, enlists 5:30pm daily. Closed 1 Jan,
Nemo as the mystical captain of the underwater Nautilus, which 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7 - 0
journeys in the shadowy world between reality and fantasy. He crops
up again in 1905, when American cartoonist Winsor McCay creates Transport
v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 26.
Little Nemo, a young boy whose dreamland adventures once again
@ 22, 42. q Centraal Station.
suggest a mingling of fact and fiction.
Museum Guide
Level 1 (first floor) gives a glimpse
into how science works. On Levels
2, 3 and 4 you can unravel everyday Phenomena
technology and learn about the Both ordinary and extraordinary
cosmos. The rooftop is home to natural and scientific phenomena
Energetica, an open-air exhibition can be experienced in this
where visitors can explore various interactive exhibition.
forms of energy.
142 AMSTERDAM
. Planetarium
The planetarium
explores the
relationship between
humans and the stars.
The night sky is re-created
on the dome, and interactive
exhibitions show the positions
of the planets. Model spacecraft
are on display in the hall around
the auditorium. The interesting
slide show is specially designed
for youngsters.
0 yards 100
1 The playground, situated next to
the Two Cheetahs restaurant, is
popular with children.
2 The northern side of the zoo
is currently used as a car park, but in
the near future will be added to the
zoo, with parking underground.
Macaws
These birds are a highly endangered
species which Artis helps preserve. The zoo
is renowned for its breeding programmes.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp3967 and pp4069
OUTSIDE THE CENTRE 143
Gorillas
Gorilla Bintis son
Bwana was born as
part of the zoos
breeding programme.
Sea Lions
. Aquarium Feeding time for the
This fine Neo-Classical building from 1882 sea lions is a popular
is home to thousands of marine animals, and daily attraction
also contains fish from Amsterdams canals. at the zoo.
144 AMSTERDAM
q Frankendael
Middenweg 72. Map 6 F5. v 9.
@ 41, 65, 101, 136, 152, 157.
Gardens: Open dawndusk.
- huizefranendael.nl
r Heineken
Experience
Stadhouderskade 78. Map 4 F3. Tel
020-523 9222. v 7, 10, 16. Open
10:30am7:30pm MonThu, 10:30am
9pm FriSun (Jul & Aug: 10:30am
9pm daily). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
7 = Under 18s with parents only.
heinekenexperience.com
HP Berlage (18561934)
Berlage studied at the technical college of
Zurich from 1875 to 1878, where he came into
contact with architects such as Semper
and Viollet-le-Duc. Inspired by their
ideas, he developed his own style,
which incorporated traditional
Dutch materials. It later evolved
into the Amsterdam School style
of architecture. Berlage designed
not only buildings but also
interiors, furniture and graphics. In
1896, he was appointed to design
the Beurs, the new stock exchange
in Amsterdam (see p95).
Completed in 1903, it is an
austere building whose
structure is clearly visible.
Berlage was also active
as a town planner. His
design of Amsterdam-
Zuid (Plan Zuid) consists
of monumental residential
blocks. At its centre stands
JF Staals Wolkenkrabber
(skyscraper).
Detail of a set of windows on the Zaanstraat
OUTSIDE THE CENTRE 147
Interiors and
exteriors are
characterized by
an excess of
expressionist glass An astonishing variety of
ornamentation decoration could be achieved
and details. with this kind of brickwork.
Sculptures
SHOPPING IN AMSTERDAM
Amsterdam has a huge range of shops and specialist shops selling everything
markets. Most of the large clothing and from ethnic fabrics and beads to
department stores are to be found in the unusual games and handmade dolls.
Nieuwe Zijde, especially along Kalverstraat, The best luxury fashion is to be found
but there are many other shopping areas on PC Hooftstraat and Van Baerlestraat.
to discover. The narrow streets crossing However, if you are looking for a bargain,
the Canal Ring, such as Herenstraat and take time to explore the street markets
Hartenstraat, contain a diverse array of and numerous second-hand shops.
Department Stores
and Malls
Amsterdams best-known
department store is De Bijenkorf.
It has a huge perfumery and
stocks a wide range of clothing.
Among the less expensive stores,
Hema is popular for household
goods, childrens clothes and
underwear, while Blokker sells
more basic household and
electrical items. Both have
branches dotted around the
city. The only shopping malls
in central Amsterdam are the
The northern end of the Waterlooplein, home to the famous flea market Kalvertoren (Kalverstraat, near
Singel) and Magna Plaza (see
Opening Hours entitled to a refund. Shops that p94), containing upmarket
Shops are usually open from stock the relevant customs forms boutiques and shops.
9am to 6pm Tuesday to post a Tax free for tourists sign.
Saturday, from 1pm to 6pm
Mondays. Many are open
Sundays. In the city centre most Sales
shops now close at 7pm (9pm Sales occur mainly in January
on Thursdays) and are open and July, but smaller shops and
on Sundays. boutiques may offer discounts
at any time. Uitverkoop describes
anything from a closing-down
How to Pay sale to a clearance sale; korting Kitchen gadgets for sale at a shop
Cash is the most popular method merely indicates that discounts in Amsterdam
of payment. If you intend to use are offered. Towards the end of a
a credit card, ask first if it is sale, further discounts are often Markets
accepted. Cards are becoming calculated at the till. Beware Amsterdammers love of
more widely accepted, but of clothes rails marked, for street trading is best illustrated
department stores may require example, VA 40 or Vanaf 40, as on Koningsdag (see p36),
purchases to be paid for at a this sign means from 40, not when the city centre becomes
special till, and smaller shops exactly 40 euros. the worlds biggest flea
may accept them only for non-
sale items and goods costing
more than 45 euros. Some
tourist shops take foreign
currency but usually offer a
poor rate of exchange.
Vat Exemption
Most Dutch goods are subject
to value added tax (BTW) of
21 per cent for clothes and
other goods, and 6 per cent for
books. Non-EU residents may be Trendy clothing store in De Negen Straatjes (The Nine Streets) neighbourhood
SHOPPING IN AMSTERDAM 149
market as locals sell off their Boerenmarkt. The best prices, Books and Newspapers
unwanted junk. however, are to be found about English-language books are
Each district in Amsterdam 25 km (16 miles) northwest of easily available, particularly at
has its own market. The best- Amsterdam at the weekend The American Book Center,
known is the Albert Beverwijkse Bazaar, one Waterstones and The New
Cuypmarkt (see p145). There of Europes largest indoor English Bookshop. They can also
are also many specialist flea markets. Next be picked up cheaply at second-
markets. Visitors and door you will find hand shops, such as The Book
residents alike are Oriental merchandise. Exchange. Comics collectors
drawn to the array of should not miss Lambiek. Het
seasonal flowers at the Financieel Dagblad has a daily
Bloemenmarkt. Another Specialist Shops business update in English and
market popular with Specialist shops are a weekly English-language
tourists is Waterlooplein dotted throughout edition. For the latest news on
flea market (see p81), the city. The unusual events, parties and exhibitions,
where bargains can be Condomerie Het Gulden visit the citys official tourist
found among the bric- Vlies, located in a website www.iamsterdam.com.
-brac; new and Jenever of former squat, sells
second-hand clothes Amsterdam condoms from all over
are also for sale. the world. Christmas
Browsers will be fascinated Palace sells festive adornments
by the dozens of stalls at the year round, and Party House
Looier Kunst en has a vast collection of paper
Antiekcentrum (see p117), decorations. Capsicum
selling anything from antique Natuurstoffen has a huge
dolls to egg cups. On selection of silks and linens,
Wednesdays and Saturdays while Coppenhagen 1001
on Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal Kralen offers over 1,000 types
there is a stamp and coin of beads. It is also worth
market. Gourmets should head exploring Joes Vliegerwinkel
for the Noordermarkt (see for kites, Simon Levelt for tea
p115), for the Saturday organic and coffee and De Kaaskamer Organic foods displayed at the Saturday
food market, also known as the for cheese. food market, Noordermarkt
DIRECTORY
Department Stores Markets Christmas Palace Simon Levelt
and Malls Singel 508. Prinsengracht 180.
De Beverwijkse Bazaar Map 4 F1. Map 1 B4.
De Bijenkorf Montageweg 35, Tel 020-4210155. Tel 020-6240823.
Beverwijk.
Dam 1. Map 2 D5. Condomerie Het
Tel 0251-262666. Books and
Tel 0900-0919. Gulden Vlies
Boerenmarkt Newspapers
Warmoesstraat 141.
Blokker Noordermarkt. Open Map 2 D5. The American Book
Kalverstraat 41. Map 4 F1. summer: 9am4pm Sat; Tel 020-6274174. Center
Tel 020-6244456. winter: 9am3pm Sat. Spui 12. Map 4 F1.
Ceintuurbaan 109.
Coppenhagen 1001 Tel 020-6255537.
Looier Kunst en Kralen
Map 4 F4. Antiekcentrum The Book Exchange
Rozengracht 54.
Tel 020-6727746. Elandsgracht 109. Kloveniersburgwal 58.
Map 1 B4.
Map 4 D1. Map 2 D5.
Hema Tel 020-6243681.
v 7, 10, 17. Tel 020-6266266.
Kalvertoren, Kalverstraat. Open 11am5pm SatThu. Joes Vliegerwinkel The New English
Map 4 F1. Nieuwe Hoogstraat 19. Bookshop
Noordermarkt
Tel 020-4228988. Map 2 E5. Kalverstraat 223.
Noordermarkt.
Tel 020-6250139. Map 4 F1.
Nieuwendijk 174176. Map 1 C3.
Map 2 D4. v 3, 10, 13, 14, 17. De Kaaskamer Tel 020-6249789.
Tel 020-6234176. Runstraat 7. Lambiek
Specialist Shops Map 4 E1. Kerkstraat 132. Map 4 E1.
Magna Plaza Tel 020-6233483. Tel 020-6267543.
Capsicum
Nieuwezijds Waterstones
Natuurstoffen Party House
Voorburgwal 182. Oude Hoogstraat 1. Rozengracht 92. Kalverstraat 152.
Map 2 D4. Map 2 D5. Map 1 B4. Map 4 F1.
Tel 020-6269199. Tel 020-6231016. Tel 020-6247851. Tel 020-6383821.
150 AMSTERDAM
ENTERTAINMENT IN
AMSTERDAM
Amsterdam offers a diverse array of world- performances are given by a multitude of
class entertainment. A wide variety of street performers and live bands in late-night
performances are staged in hundreds of bars and cafs. The citys hottest annual events
venues throughout the city, ranging from include the Holland Festival and the Uitmarkt
the century-old Concertgebouw (see p124) (see p37). Club-goers are in their element in
to the sleek modern Muziekgebouw on the the canal city, which offers club nights to meet
IJ river. There is a huge choice of plays and most tastes in music and skilled DJs, such as
films throughout the year, and plenty of free Tisto, who are renowned around the globe.
Clubs and Discos The bright lights of Amsterdam ArenA, a premier sporting venue
Amsterdams nightclubs are
famous for their variety and dance palace on the third floor. are available from the Pink Point
high energy. The scene Located in the former building kiosk next to the Westerkerk
throbs hardest in and around of Dutch newspaper De (www.pinkpoint.org).
Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein Volkskrant, Volkshotel is home
and Reguliersdwarsstraat. Most to a restaurant and one of the
clubs open at 11pm and are at citys leading nightclubs, which Spectator Sports
their busiest from around 1am; attracts creative hipsters and The Dutch are a sport-mad
closing time is 4am during students. The college crowd nation, and nothing makes their
the week and 5am on Friday also gravitates to the dancehall pulses race faster than football.
and Saturday. of Hotel Arena, located in a Three teams enjoy international
Jimmy Woo is famous for its former orphanage. standing: Ajax Amsterdam,
tough door policy. Inside, its Clubbing is also at the heart Feyenoord Rotterdam and PSV
Hong-Kong hip, with lots of of Amsterdams gay scene.
black leather and a great sound Crowds are often mixed and
system. Escape draws a young, most gay clubs will rarely turn
trendy crowd to its huge away women or straight men.
split-level complex on Reguliersdwarsstraat is home
Rembrandtplein, and another to a number of gay bars, such
large, popular venue is AIR. On as NYX, a slick bar with three
the opposite side of the square, levels and a balcony for viewing
Rain spins Latin and World beats. the dance scene below. Other
The leading non-house club popular gay bars, such as
in town is Sugar Factory, with Amstel 54 and Queers Caf, are
its diverse menu of soul, funk located on the nearby Amstel.
and jazz-dance. The other discos Prik is a hugely popular bar
around Leidseplein are basically that turns into a small club at
extended bars with small dance night. Young women like Vive
floors, catering to tourists. At La Vie, while Saarein II is a
Odeon near Spui Square, you friendly, relaxed bar tucked
can party your way up from away in a small street in the
the basement restaurant to the Jordaan. Details of other venues Two footballers clashing at an
Ajax game
DIRECTORY
Entertainment Bimhuis Frascati Hotel Arena
Information Muziekgebouw aan t IJ Nes 63. s-Gravesandestraat 51.
Piet Heinkade 3. Map 2 D5. Map 6 D4.
AUB Ticketshop Map 2 F3. Tel 020-6266866. Tel 020-8502400.
Leidseplein 26. Tel 020-7882188. frascati.nl hotelarena.nl
Map 4 E2. bimhuis.nl
Tel 020-7959950. De Kleine Komedie Jimmy Woo
amsterdam Bourbon Street Amstel 5658. Korte Leidsedwarsstraat
suitburo.nl Leidsekruisstraat 68. Map 5 B3. 18. Map 4 E2.
Map 4 E2. Tel 020-6240534. Tel 020-6263150.
Classic Music, Tel 020-6233440. dekleinekomedie.nl jimmywoo.com
Opera and Dance bourbonstreet.nl
Koninklijk Theater NYX
Caf Nol Carr
Beurs van Berlage Reguliersdwarsstraat 42.
Westerstraat 109. Amstel 115125.
Damrak 243. Map 4 F1. clubnyx.nl
Map 1 B3. Map 5 B3.
Map 2 D4.
Tel 020-6245380. Tel 0900 252 5255. Odeon
Tel 020-5304141.
theatercarre.nl Singel 460. Map 4 F1.
beursvanberlage.nl Heineken Music Hall
Tel 020-5218555.
Arena Boulevard 590. Westergasfabriek
Concertgebouw odeon.amsterdam.nl
Tel 0900 687 4242 55. Haarlemmerweg 810.
Concertgebouwplein 26.
heineken-music- Map 1 A1. Prik
Map 4 D4.
hall.nl Tel 020-5860710. Spuistraat 109. Map 1 C5.
Tel 0900 6718345.
westergasfabriek. Tel 020-3200002.
concertgebouw.nl Jazzcaf Alto
com prikamsterdam.nl
Korte Leidsedwarsstraat
De Meervaart 115.
Meer en Vaart 300. Cinema Queers Caf
Map 4 E2. Amstel 60. Map 5 A2.
Tel 020-4107700. Tel 020-6263249.
meervaart.nl
City Theater Tel 06-51421222.
jazz-cafe-alto.nl Kleine Gartmanplantsoen
Muziekgebouw 1519. Rain
Melkweg
Aan t IJ Map 5 C3. Rembrandtplein 44.
Lijnbaansgracht 234a.
Piet Heinkade 1. Tel 0900 1458. Map 5 A2. Tel 020-
Map 4 E2.
Map 2 F3. 6267078.
Tel 020-5318181. Kriterion
Tel 020-7882000. rain-amsterdam.com
melkweg.nl Roetersstraat 170.
muziekgebouw.nl Saarein II
Paradiso Map 5 C3.
Het Muziektheater Weteringschans 68. Tel 020-6231708. Elandstraat 119.
Amstel 3. Map 4 E2. Map 1 B5.
Map 5 B2.
Path de Munt Tel 020-6234901.
Tel 020-6264521. Vijzelstraat 15.
Tel 020-6255455. paradiso.nl saarein.nl
Map 4 F1.
muziektheater.nl
De Twee Zwaantjes Tel 0900 1458. Sugar Factory
Vondelpark Prinsengracht 114. Lijnbaansgracht 238.
Tuschinski
Stadhouderskade. Map 1 C3. Map 4 E2.
Reguliersbreestraat
Map 4 E2. Tel 020-6752729. Tel 020-6270008.
2436. Map 5 A2.
Tel 020-7882000. sugarfactory.nl
Tel 0900 1458.
vondelpark.nl Theatre and Vive La Vie
Cabaret Uitkijk
Jazz, Pop and Amstelstraat 7. Map 5 A2.
Prinsengracht 452.
World Music Bellevue Theater Map 4 E2. Tel 020-6240114.
Leidsekade 90. Tel 020-6237460. vivelavie.net
Akhnaton Map 4 D2.
Volkshotel
Nieuwezijds Kolk 25. Tel 020-5305301. Clubs and Discos Wibautstraat 150.
Map 2 D4. theaterbellevue.nl
Tel 020-624 3396. AIR Map 5 C1.
akhnaton.nl
Boom Chicago Amstelstraat 16. Map 5 A2. Tel 020-2612100.
Rozentheater volkshotel.nl
Tel 020-8200670.
Amsterdam ArenA Rozengracht 117.
air.nl
ArenA Boulevard 1, Tel 0900 BOOM CHICAGO. Spectator Sports
Zuidoost. Map 1 A5. Amstel 54
Tel 020-3111333. boomchicago.nl Amstel 54. Map 5 A2. Ajax Amsterdam
amsterdamarena.nl Tel 06-29557092. Football team
De Brakke Grond english.ajax.nl
De Badcuyp Vlaams Cultureel Escape
Sweelinckstraat 10. Centrum, Nes 45. Rembrandtplein 11. Olympic Stadium
Map 5 A5. Map 2 D5. Map 5 A2. Oud Zuid.
Tel 020-6759669. Tel 020-6266866. Tel 020-6221111. Tel 020-3054400.
badcuyp.nl brakkegrond.nl escape.nl olympischstadion.nl
154 AMSTERDAM
STREET FINDER
The page grid superimposed to be found on the books inside
on the Area by Area map back cover). An index of street
below shows which parts of names and places of interest
Amsterdam are covered in marked on the maps is on
this Street Finder. Map pages 1623. The key below
references given for all indicates the maps scale and
sights, hotels, restaurants, other features marked on them,
shopping and entertainment including transport terminals,
venues described in this emergency services and
guide refer to the maps in information centres. All major
this section (the road map is sights are clearly marked.
E
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PRINS E N G
Place of interest
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162 AMSTERDAM STREET FINDER
Each place name is followed by its arrondissement number and then by its Street Finder reference
WESTERN
NETHERLANDS
The Hague
Delft
Westenschouwen
Zierikzee
Middelburg Goes
Vlissingen
ZEELAND
(See pp24659)
Den Helder
Wieringerwerf
Callantsoog
Enkhuizen
Haarlem
AMSTERDAM
(See pp64163)
Amstelveen
Aalsmeer
Hilversum
Leiden Amersfoort
Alphen aan
den Rijn UTRECHT Gouda (see p243) is one of the
Utrecht (See pp196211)
many commercial towns in
Woerden the Western Netherlands that
Veenendaal also has its prime position on
SOUTH Gouda
HOLLAND the waterways to thank for its
(See pp21245) period of prosperity. The spirit
Rhenen
of liberalism prevalent in Gouda
Rotterdam during the 16th and 17th
centuries protected the
Ridderkerk magnificent St Janskerk from
the Iconoclasm, meaning
that the Gouda stained glass is
Dordecht still here to be enjoyed today.
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 10
Reclaimed Land
The Netherlands is continually increasing in size. Various
methods of reclaiming land have been employed as far back
as the 11th century. One fairly simple method was to build
a dyke around a marshy area. Later, deep lakes were drained
with the help of windmills. The far-reaching IJsselmeer
polders fertile farmlands were created after the Zuiderzee
was closed off using ingenious reclamation methods. Even
To create a polder, a ditch
now, huge efforts are being made to extend areas of
was first dredged. The
reclaimed land hence the new Amsterdam residential dredgings were used to
area of IJburg, which has sprung up from the IJmeer. build up the dyke.
Gradual Drainage
To overcome the height difference Middle
between the polder and the ring windmill
Lower
canal, which is sometimes large,
windmill
the water is continually raised
metre by metre by three windmills
placed in a row, known as a
driegang or row of three.
Land Reclamation
About 3,000 years ago, houses were built on mounds so
that they would not be flooded when the water rose. As far
back as the 4th to 8th centuries, dykes were built around
the houses and land. Land reclamation was carried out on
a large scale from the 11th century, when the population
increased sharply. In the 17th and 18th centuries, deeper
lakes were drained with the help of rows of windmills. The
steam engine meant a new phase of land reclamation: it Many dyke houses are facing a threat
was now finally possible to control the Haarlemmermeer. to their continued existence because
It is thought that, in Leeghwaters time, at least 160 of the raising of the river dykes.
windmills were necessary for this. In 1891, the engineer
C Lely put forward a plan to close off the treacherous
Zuiderzee. This only actually happened in 1932, when the
Afsluitdijk (barrier dam) was completed. Construction of
the IJsselmeer polders then got underway.
The Randstad
It appears that the term Randstad (literally, rim
city) was introduced by Albert Plesman, managing
director of Dutch airline KLM, which was
established in 1919. Apparently he pointed out
to the passengers on one of his airplanes the
horseshoe-shaped band of towns formed by
Utrecht, Amsterdam, Haarlem, Leiden, The
Hague, Rotterdam and Dordrecht. The relatively
undeveloped area in the middle was quickly By 2025 the population in the Randstad is
named the Groene Hart (green heart). set to grow by 700,000.
Groene Hart
The Groene Hart is a man-made landscape formed from an
association with water that has lasted for centuries. It is
characterized by elongated pieces of reclaimed land, peat lakes
and river landscape with marshes and pools. The most important
agrarian activity is dairy-cattle breeding; the cheese produced
here is world-famous. Environmental organizations are dedicated
to developing and protecting natural resources and historical
landscapes. In De Venen, which surrounds the Nieuwkoopse and
Vinkeveense lakes, a project is underway to combine extensive
arable farming, natural development of the environment, and
recreation facilities. It is hoped that this type of project will
provide a balance to urbanization.
IJburg is a new
district, built on the Growth of the Randstad
IJmeer to the east
of Amsterdam. As far back as the end of the 15th
Another plan century, the Western Netherlands was
for municipal one of the most urbanized regions of
expansion into the Europe. It was only during the 20th
water is Nieuw century that the borders between the
Holland, a long, towns became blurred and what is
narrow piece of now known as the Randstad emerged.
land in front of the At present 6.5 million people live here.
coast between
Scheveningen and
Hoek van Holland.
Amsterdam
Rotterdam
Amsterdam
Amsterdam
Dunes
The Dutch coast is famous for its dunes. These
natural sea walls, with a vegetation of their own,
were used in earlier times as common ground
for cattle grazing (the oerol, see p278) in the
absence of sufficient grassland. They now play
an important role in the purification of water.
The dunes are also a particularly popular
recreational area many of the protected dune
areas are open to ramblers and cyclists.
The sea supplies the On the beach, the dry, A sea inlet is formed when
sand from which the white sand drifts and the sea breaks through the
dunes are built. piles up. row of dunes.
Nature Reserves
The dunes are being used less and less as areas for water
collection, meaning that the groundwater level is rising
again and the damp dunes can once again be
established. Protected against such environmentally
damaging influences as industry and land development,
they are becoming important nature reserves where
Water collection is done by way of the
dunes, which retain the fresh water that
there is a great deal for hikers and cyclists to enjoy.
falls inside them in the form of Vegetation includes gorse, spindle trees, creeping willow
precipitation. Drinking water has been and hawthorn. Resident and migratory birds, such as
collected since the 19th century from the curlews, tawny pipits and sometimes ospreys, inhabit
dunes of North and South Holland (such the dunes. During World War II, anti-tank trenches with
as at Meyendel, near Wassenaar, pictured steep banks were built in the Midden-Heeren dunes
above), helping to eliminate diseases like (in Nationaal Park Zuid-Kennemerland). Today, even
cholera from densely populated cities. the rare kingfisher feels at home there.
INTRODUCING THE WESTERN NETHERLANDS 173
Origins
Dunes are created by a process which can be
seen time and time again during a stormy day
on the countrys long, flat beaches. The sand
carried by the sea dries on the surface of the
The Dutch coast seriously damaged by storms beach and is then dragged by the wind like a
white shroud over the beach. Held back by
The first row of dunes, golden The dune valleys
in colour because of the have their own
any obstacles in its way, the sand starts to
overgrowth, has higher summits. particular vegetation. accumulate. If the obstacle is a plant, a dune
begins to form. Plants involved in forming
dunes are called pioneer plants. They must be
able to tolerate being buried by the sand and
also be able to grow back through the sand.
Sand couch grass (Elymus farctus) is renowned
for being one such plant. After the initial dune
formation, marram grass often begins to
stabilize the new dune with its enormous
root system. Dunes along the coast of the
Netherlands can become as high as 10 m
(33 ft). The dunes here new dunes were
formed after 1200. When the sea breaks
through dunes which have collapsed or have
been cut through, it creates a sea inlet, or
channel, around which an entire vegetation
system develops, attracting all types of birds.
NORTH
HOLLAND
Although North Hollands landscape is mainly flat, it is by
no means featureless. Low-lying polders, with windmills
and grazing cows, give way to market gardens and
colourful bulb fields. Around Amsterdam the land is more
built-up, with lively towns and picturesque villages almost cheek by jowl.
North Holland has always been one canals; one connects Zaandam to Den
of the most important areas of the Helder in the north, while the other,
Netherlands economically, due to its the important North Sea Canal, gives
industry, fishing and commerce. The Amsterdams busy port access to the
Zuiderzee ports played a major part North Sea at IJmuiden. Land reclamation,
in the voyages of the Dutch East India at which the Dutch excel, has been
Company (see p52), and their merchants going on since the 14th century, and
became wealthy from the trade in exotic many historical island communities
imports. They built splendid houses and are now surrounded by dry land.
filled them with expensive furniture and Tourism is a major industry in North
fine art, much of which has found its way Holland, with Schiphol, the countrys
into the provinces leading museums. major airport, at its heart. The North Sea
This part of the country has learned coast has a string of delightful resorts and
to live with and profit from water. The sea-front hotels among the dunes, while
province is bordered by it on three sides, in the communities on the IJsselmeer
with the unpredictable North Sea to the such as Edam, famous for its cheese, and
west and the vast IJsselmeer (formerly picturesque Volendam, you can still find
the Zuiderzee) to the east. The flat land villagers wearing traditional costume
in between is bisected by two major and the famous Dutch wooden clogs.
ds
o llan
rdh
Noo
Schoorl
DEN HELDER
Den Oever
aal
Breezand
Kan
Wieringerwerf
Middenmeer
IJsselmeer De Koepoort in Enkhuizen, built in 1649
Schagen
MEDEMBLIK
Andijk
Wervershoof
Abbekerk
D
N ZUIDERZEE MUSEUM
A
E SL ENKHUIZEN
Noord- RI
Scharwoude T F
WES
Hoogkarspel
Wognum
Heerhugowaard
HOORN
Oudorp
Avenhorn Schellinkhout
NOORD-
HOLLAND Oosthuizen
DE BEEMSTER
Markermeer
Middenbeemster
Purmerend
EDAM
JISP
VOLENDAM
ZAANSE SCHANS
MARKEN
MONNICKENDAM Traditional farm in the De Beemster region
Koog aan
den Zaan
Zaanstad BROEK-IN-
K a naal WATERLAND
0 kilometres 10
AMSTERDAM 0 miles 10
Badhoevedorp
Diemen MUIDEN
AMSTELVEEN Key
Huizen
NAARDERMEER NAARDEN Motorway
OUDERKERK Main road
AAN DE AMSTEL Bussum Blaricum
Minor road
AALSMEER LAREN
Scenic route
s-GRAVELAND
HILVERSUM Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp40910
178 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
1 Marken
Road map C3. * 2,000. @ g from
Volendam. vvv-waterland.nl
E Edams Museum
Damplein 8. Tel 0299-372644.
Open AprOct: TueSun. Closed 27
Distinctive 17th-century wooden houses at Marken Apr. & edamsmuseum.nl
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp40910
NORTH HOLLAND 179
E Zaans Museum
Schansend 7, Zaandam. Tel 075-
6810000. Open 10am5pm daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7
zaansmuseum.nl
Environs
At the Molenmuseum (windmill
museum) at Koog on the Zaan,
Typical Dutch windmill on the Zaanse Schans you will learn everything you
need to know about the wind-
5 Jisp tourist office, VVV, has mills of the Zaan region. It is
Road map B3. * 760. @ n 0299-
information about the various located in an 18th-century
472718. laagholland.com excursions offered. wooden house.
Haaldersbroek, opposite the
The old whaling village of Zaanse Schans, was once a boat-
Jisp, on one of the many 6 Zaanse Schans ing village with narrow locks, brick
former Zuiderzee islands, Road map C3. Schansend 7,
paths and typical Zaan houses
has a 17th-century feel. Zaandam. * 50. @ Tel 075- and farmhouses. Here, youll feel as
The stadhuis (town hall) and 6810000. Open 9am5pm daily, some though youve gone back in time.
dorpskerk (village church) buildings closed weekdays in winter.
are worth a visit. The village zaanseschans.nl E Molenmuseum
lies in the middle of the Museumlaan 18, Koog a/d Zaan.
Jisperveld, a nature reserve The Zaanse Schans is the tourist Tel 075-6288968. Open TueSun.
which is home to many heart of the Zaan region. This Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sun, Whitsun.
different birds, such as open-air museum, created in & zaanschemolen.nl
lapwings, black-tailed godwits, 1960, has typical Zaan houses,
redshanks, ruffs and spoonbills. windmills and buildings. When
This is a lovely spot to cycle, its windy, you will be able to see 7 De Beemster
row, fish or, in the summer, the windmills working. The Road map B3. @ n VVV
visit on an excursion. The products (oil, paint, mustard) are Middenbeemster (0299-621826).
beemsterinfo.nl
Czaar-Peterhuisje (Tsar Peters House) The Beemster was once a lake
In 1697, the Russian Peter the Great visited the shipyards of Zaandam that was drained in 1612 by
in order to learn how the local people built ships. He lodged with Jan Adriaansz Leeghwater (see
Gerrit Kist, a tradesman whom he p167). This unusual region has
had employed in St Petersburg. hardly changed since the 17th
The tsar paid another visit to the century, and in 1999 it was
town in 1717. The first mention of named a World Heritage Site by
Tsar Peters house in an official UNESCO. You can see historic
document was in 1780. This led to
objects and period rooms in the
the tiny wooden house being
Museum Betje Wolff.
supplied with a stone casing and
foundations for protection. Every
year, this humble house attracts E Museum Betje Wolff
a great number of tourists. (Krimp Middenweg 178, Middenbeemster.
23, Zaandam, tel. 075-6810000. Tel 0299-681968. Open MaySep:
Peter the Great, who stayed in Open 10am5pm TueSun; 11am5pm TueFri, 2pm onwards
Zaandam twice closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.) SatSun; OctApr: 25pm Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. &
180 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
8 Zuiderzeemuseum
Enkhuizen was one of the towns whose economy was
based on fishing and which was devastated when its access
to the North Sea was blocked in 1932 by the construction
of a barrier dam, the Afsluitdijk (see p168). Enkhuizen is
today enjoying renewed prosperity with the opening of
the Zuiderzeemuseum complex and the restructuring of
the fishing port into a marina. The museum consists of an
open-air section in the form of a museum-park, and an . Houses from Urk
indoor area with a large number of exhibition spaces for Houses from the former island of
permanent displays and temporary presentations. Urk (see p330) have been rebuilt
here. Actors portray life at the
beginning of the 20th century.
Entrance pavilion
to Buitenmuseum
Sailmakers Workshop
At the beginning of the
20th century, most ships
and fishing boats had
. Schepenhal sails. The traditional craft
The Schepenhal (marine of sailmaking is kept
hall) at the Binnenmuseum alive in this workshop.
(indoor museum) features
an exhibition of 14 historic
ships in full regalia. Children Entrance to
can listen to an exciting Buitenmuseum
audio play while sitting
in a boat.
Lime Kilns
Shells dredged from the sea bed were
burned in bottle-shaped lime kilns.
The resulting quicklime was then
used as an ingredient in mortar for
brickwork. These ovens come from
Akersloot in North Holland.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp40910
ENKHUIZEN 181
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Wierdijk 1222, Enkhuizen.
Tel 0228351111.
zuiderzeemuseum.nl
Indoor and open-air museums
Open AprOct: 10am5pm daily;
indoor museum also open Nov
Mar: 10am5pm daily.
Closed 25 Dec. Enkhuizen.
4 from the station. & 7 -
0=
. Contemporary Delft Blue Hugo Kaagmans paintings
juxtapose traditional Delft motifs with present-day designs in
refreshing combinations: windmills, tulips and fisherfolk sit
beside portraits of popular singers.
The Church
The builders of this late-19th-
century church, from the island
of Wieringen, hid the organ in
a cupboard to avoid the
tax levied on church
organs at that time.
KEY
e Den Helder
Road Map B2. * 57,000. @
n Willemsoord 52A (0223-
616100). ( Jul & Aug: Tue.
topvanholland.nl
E Marinemuseum
Hoofdgracht 3. Tel 0223-657534.
Open MayOct: daily; NovApr: Tue
Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 2526 Dec.
Riverside setting of Broek in Waterland & = marinemuseum.nl
NORTH HOLLAND 183
Windmills
Since the 13th century, windmills have been an inseparable
part of the landscape of Holland. They have been used for a
variety of purposes, including milling corn, extracting oil and
sawing wood. One of their most important uses was to pump
away excess water from the polders (see pp1689). Windmills
consist of a fixed tower and a cap which carries the sails. The
cap can be turned so that the sails face the wind. The sails can
be very dangerous when they are turning hence the Dutch
saying, Een klap van de molenwiek hebben (To be struck by a
windmill), that is, to have a screw loose. The Netherlands had Watermill in the Schermer polder
thousands of windmills in earlier times, but since the arrival
of modern machines, their number has dropped to just over Lattice and
1,000. Many of these windmills are still working and are open canvas sail
for visits. (See also pp289.)
Polder mills for draining
became common during
the 17th century.
Standing in groups, they
were each responsible for
part of the pumping,
through the use of an
Archimedes screw.
Rolled-up canvas
Flour Mills
Flour mills were covered
with reeds and looked like
enormous pepper mills. The
millstones were linked to the
sails by the spindle and gear-
wheels and milled wheat,
barley and oats.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp40910
184 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
0 miles 5
Medemblik
Andijk
Twisk
Wervershoof
Abbekerk
Oostwoud
Midwoud
spoorlijn
Toeristische
Enkhuizen
Hoogkarspel
Nibbixwoud
Blokker
Hoorn Oosterleek
Schellinkhout
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp40910
186 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
y Street-by-Street: Haarlem
Haarlem is the commercial capital of North Statue of Laurens Coster
Holland province and the eighth largest city According to local legend,
Haarlem-born Laurens
in the Netherlands. It is the centre of the Jansz Coster (13701440)
Dutch printing, pharmaceutical and bulb- invented printing in
growing industries, but there is little sign of 1423, 16 years before
this in the delightful pedestrianized streets of Gutenberg. The
19th-century statue in
the historic heart of the city. Most of the the Grote Markt
sights of interest are within easy walking celebrates the claim.
distance of the Grote Markt, a lively square
packed with ancient buildings, cafs and
restaurants. Old bookshops, antique dealers
and traditional food shops are all to be
discovered in nearby streets.
AT
SSTR A
SM
Z
L JORI
IJ
ED
L
The Hoofdwacht S
T
R
EST
is a 17th-century A
A
T
BAR TE
former guard
RA
house.
AT
T
A
A
R
T GROTE
R.
S MARK T
TST
G
IN
L E P E L S T R A AT
N
HOU
O
K
Stadhuis
GR.
Lieven de Keys
allegorical figure of
Justice (1622) stands
above the main
entrance. She
. Vleeshal (1603)
carries a sword and
The old meat market is part
the scales of justice.
of the Frans Hals Museum
(see pp19091).
Grote Markt
The tree-lined market square is bordered
with busy pavement restaurants and cafs.
It has been the meeting point for the
townspeople for centuries.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp409410
HAARLEM 187
T
AA
. Teylers Museum
TR
Physical and
ES
W astronomical
JN
IJ
D instruments, like this
BAKE
EA
GI
PP brass electrostatic
BE
EL generator by Pieter
AA
E
RS
TE form part of the
LA
EG
collection in this
ERGR
museum of science,
N S
(see p189).
EE
P LK H
ACHT
ST
LO
R
A
A
K
EL
P
P
EA
W
U
E
ARN
E SPA
KER
DON
E
A R N
S P A
E R
R I V
0 metres 50
Gravestenenbrug
Key 0 yards 50
This lift bridge crosses the river Spaarne.
Located on the south bank is the Recommended route
embarkation point for boat trips along
the river and canals.
188 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
Gabled houses from the 17th and 18th centuries along the river Spaarne in Haarlem
190 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
Key to Floorplan
Works by Frans Hals
Renaissance Gallery
Old Masters
Frans Hals workshop
The Hals Phenomenon
Non-exhibition space
Militia paintings
by Hals
Museum Guide
The best direction to take through the
museum is counter-clockwise, as
exhibitions of the works of Frans Hals,
other portraits, still lifes and pieces of
genre paintings are displayed in roughly
Delft Plate (1662) The Grote chronological order. In the Verweyhal
Markt and Grote Kerk in Haarlem and the Vleeshal (see p188) temporary
(see p186) are depicted on this exhibitions are held of modern and
earthenware plate by M Eems. contemporary art.
192 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
a Stoomgemaal
De Cruquius
Road Map B3. Cruquiusdijk 27. @
Tel 023-5285704. Open MarOct:
daily; NovFeb: Wed, Sat & Sun. &
7 museumdecruquius.nl
E Comeniusmuseum
Kloosterstraat 33. Tel 035- 6943045.
Open TueSun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
25 Dec, 31 Dec. & =
comeniusmuseum.nl
E Nederlands Vestingmuseum
Westwalstraat 6. Tel 035-6945459.
The Muiderslot, built in 1280, a site of many legends Open 10:30am5pm TueFri, from
noon Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
g Muiden then later destroyed and rebuilt 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7 =
around 1350. In the 15th and vestingmuseum.nl
Road Map C3. * 6,700. @
16th centuries, it was occupied
In the Middle Ages, the pretty in turn by the Spanish and the
town of Muiden was an outport French. The first thing you j s-Graveland
for Utrecht but later became notice on arrival is the tower of
Road Map C3. * 9,200. @
part of the defence system of the 14th-century Grote Kerk.
the Stelling van Amsterdam The churchs wooden vaulted s-Graveland is a special
(see p192), together with fort ceiling has been beautifully place in Het Gooi (see p176).
island Pampus. The town is decorated with pictures from In the 17th century, nine
mainly known for its castle, the Old and New Testament. country estates were built
the Muiderslot, which is more Around 400 years ago, Czech here for rich Amsterdammers.
than 700 years old and was priest Comenius fled to the Just across from these lie
built by Floris V. After his death Netherlands, and now lies the modest houses that
it was demolished and rebuilt. buried in the 15th-century belonged to the labourers.
The most famous inhabitant Waalse kapel (Walloon chapel). Businesses now use the
was the 17th-century poet The Spaanse Huis (Spanish country houses, as the upkeep
PC Hooft, who formed the house), which was converted is too expensive for individuals.
Muiderkring (Muiden circle), a into the Waag (weigh house), Five parks are owned by the
circle of friends occupied with is now home to the Vereniging Natuurmonumenten
literature and music. Most of Comeniusmuseum, which and are open to visitors.
the castle rooms are furnished explores the life and ideas of You can learn more at
in 17th- and 18th-century style. the Czech scholar Jan Amos the Bezoekerscentrum
The garden and orchard also Comenius (15921670), who (visitors centre).
retain their former glory. Visitors is buried here. The Nederlands
can take the ferry to Pampus. Vestingmuseum (fortress P Bezoekerscentrum Gooi-en
museum) is in one of the six Vechtstreek
+ Muiderslot bastions of the fortress and has Noordereinde 54b. Tel 035-6563080.
Herengracht 1. Tel 0294-256262. an exhibition of the Hollandse Open TueSun.
Open AprOct: daily; NovMar: Waterlinie, a strip of land natuurmonumenten.nl
Sat & Sun. & 8 muiderslot.nl
+ Pampus
g from Herengracht 33 (AprOct:
TueSun) Tel 0294-262326.
pampus.nl
h Naarden
Road Map C3. * 17,000.
@ ( Sat.
E Museum Hilversum
Kerkbrink 6. Tel 035-5339601.
Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
25 Dec. museumhilversum.nl
l Naardermeer
Road Map C3. n Meerkade 2,
Naarden (035-6990000). 8 7
natuurmonumenten.nl
E Singer Museum
Oude Drift 1. Tel 035-5393939.
De Erfgooiers (1907) by F Hart Nibbrig Open TueSun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
25 Dec. & 7 singerlaren.nl
WESTERN NETHERLANDS 197
UTRECHT
The province of Utrecht, with the lively university city
of the same name at its heart, has a vast range of
attractions for visitors, including farmhouses,
mansions, museums and castles, all set in a varied
and attractive wooded landscape, and with a
fascinating history dating back to Roman times.
The city of Utrecht has its origins in AD 47, In more recent times, the University
when the Romans built a camp by a ford of Utrecht has been a great source of
(trecht) at the river Rhine, which followed economic and artistic development,
a different course in those days. In 695, and the city is home to a modern
Bishop Willibrord established himself here manufacturing industry and major
to promote the spread of Christianity. From Dutch corporations.
the 11th century, the church authorities Visitors will enjoy the pretty country-
enjoyed not only spiritual but also secular side ideal for car or cycle touring the
power in this region, which has seen much country houses and historic buildings,
conflict: over the centuries the counts of the street markets and a great variety
Holland, the dukes of Burgundy, the of attractions ranging from old steam
Spaniards, the French and the Germans locomotives to barrel-organs and
have all tried to make their mark here. Australian Aboriginal art. But in this eco-
The regions proximity to Amsterdam has conscious country, with its awareness of
meant that it has been able to share in the the need for conservation, it may be the
capitals prosperity as wealthy merchants outdoors, with its sparkling lakes and
and landowners built their mansions and possibilities for leisurely country walks,
estates along the river Vecht (see p202). that will appeal the most.
t
ch
Ve
LOENEN
Mijdrecht Vinkeveen
COUNTRY ESTATES
ON THE VECHT Loosdrechtse
Plassen
NIE U
Breukelen W
E
H O
LL
A SLOT
N ZUYLEN
Maarssen D
SE
W Groenekan
A
Vleuten TE
The heksenwaag (witches scales)
RL
in Oudewater IN
IE
WOERDEN UTRECHT
Harmelen
De Meern
Getting Around
Larger towns have railway stations;
smaller ones can be reached easily
by bus. Utrecht, the capital of the Nieuwegein
Montfoort
province, is the biggest railway
junction in the Netherlands and OUDEWATER
IJsselstein
so train connections from this
town are excellent. There is also a Tull en
t Waal
regional bus station. Utrecht has
a highly developed road network
Vianen
and is served by important main
Lopik
roads such as the A2 (northsouth)
and the A12 (eastwest), but there
is also a large number of minor k
roads, tourist routes and cycle Le
paths in the area.
Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Rhenen, with its characteristic Cuneratoren National border
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
BUNSCHOTEN
SPAKENBURG
BAARN
LAGE SOESTDIJK
VUURSCHE
SOEST
Historical centre of Amersfoort, largely
AMERSFOORT still preserved
Bilthoven
Leusden
Soesterberg
De Bilt
Zeist Woudenberg
UTRECHT
Utrecht Heuvelrug
Driebergen
DOORN Veenendaal
Houten
Leersum
AMERONGEN
ijn
rR
DUURSTEDE
RHENEN
Sights at a Glance
1 Vinkeveense Plassen q Bunschoten-Spakenburg
2 Loenen w Utrecht pp2049
3 Slot Zuylen e Amersfoort
4 Woerden r Doorn
5 Oudewater t Wijk bij Duurstede
6 Nieuwe Hollandse Waterlinie y Amerongen
7 Country Estates along the Vecht u Rhenen
8 Baarn/Soest
The Windmill at Wijk by Jacob van 9 Soestdijk
Ruisdael (see p128) 0 Lage Vuursche
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and p410
200 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
1 Vinkeveense
Plassen
Road Map C3. @ s
De Vinkeveense Plassen
(Vinkeveense Lakes) came about
through human intervention
this site was once marsh. The
thick peat layers have been
excavated over the centuries.
The large towns in the surrounding
area needed peat; sales of this
fuel meant that the people here
started to earn a decent living.
The peat was therefore dug up
more and more extensively,
eventually leading to a large
area of lakes.
Today, the Vinkeveense Lakes
attract many watersports lovers,
cyclists and walkers. When its not
the breeding season, you can take
a rowing boat through the nature Stately Slot Zuylen, where Belle van Zuylen lived in the 18th century
reserve of Botshol, which is home
to marsh and grassland birds. summerhouses and boathouses, 3 Slot Zuylen
built over the centuries. It is now Road Map C4. @ 36,120. Castle:
a protected village. Tournooiveld 1, Oud-Zuilen. Tel 030-
2 Loenen Kasteel Loenersloot, built on 2440255. Open AprOct: 11am5pm
the bank of the Angstel, is one TueSun; NovMar: 11am5pm Sat
Road Map C3. * 8,350.
@ ( Tue am.
of Loenens oldest country & Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25, 26 &
estates. The building dates back 31 Dec. & 8 slotzuylen.nl
In the 10th century, this place to the 13th century, though
was called Lona, meaning water only the round defence tower The original U-shaped castle
or mud. Loenen fell under two remains; the rest dates from the was built around 1520 on the
jurisdictions and has two courts 17th and 18th centuries. remains of a medieval residential
dating from the beginning of the tower. At the beginning of the
18th century. Loenen on the Vecht + Kasteel Loenersloot 16th century, a new castle
is famous for its rural atmosphere, Rijksstraatweg 211. 8 AprOct: Thu was built on the foundations
castles and country estates & Sat. utrechtslandschap.nl/ of the old house and the
complete with coach houses, loenersloot gateway was added. Up to
the 18th century, extensive
rebuilding brought the castle
into line with contemporary
architectural style.
The author Belle van Zuylen
(17401805) was one of the
castles most famous inhabi-
tants. She was renowned for her
correspondence at home and
abroad, which she cleverly
used to show her modern
attitude. Several rooms are
furnished as they were when
she resided here.
The serpentine wall that
runs alongside the castle
is interesting because its
unique shape provides so
much protection that even
in this cool sea climate,
subtropical fruits such as
peaches and grapes can
Loenen on the Vecht still boasts an aristocratic appearance flourish here.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and p410
UTRECHT 201
Nijenrode
A university has now
been set up in this
castle formerly
belonging to the
Lords of Nijenrode.
The coat of
arms of the
Huijdecoper
family decorates
the faade.
The entrance
has an impressive
The house contains
flight of
a grand staircase and
stone steps.
rooms furnished with
decorative drapes.
One of the rooms
Between Breukelen and is now used for
Loenen the Vecht resembles wedding ceremonies.
an architectural museum. The
country estates (Vechtvliet is
shown here) are surrounded
by established parks and
ornamental outbuildings.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and p410
UTRECHT 203
8 Baarn/Soest
Roadmap C3. @ * 70,000.
n Van Weedestraat 131, Soest (035-
7400074). ( Baarn Tue, Soest Thu.
0 Lage Vuursche
Road Map C3. * 250. @ n Van
Weedestraat 131, Soest (035-7400074).
w Street-by-Street: Utrecht
The area to the south of the centre gives one
a good idea of how people once lived in Utrecht.
Rich citizens lived in the stately houses on
the Nieuwegracht, with its typical Utrecht
wharves, and built almshouses for their less
fortunate neighbours. No doubt because of the
great number of museums in this area, it came
to be called Museumkwartier (museum district). KORT
E SM ZUILEN
The old city walls gave way to a magnificent EEST
R A AT
park which was designed by landscape
gardener Zocher. GR
AC
HT
DE
VROUW
JUTTENS
T R A AT
LANGE
. Oudegracht
The Oudegracht represented a vital
transport route for the economy of
Utrecht in the 13th century. When the
water level fell, cellars were built along
the wharves. These were used as
warehouses or workshops. Today, some
of them house cafs and restaurants.
Centraal Museum
The rich and varied contents
include works by the 16th-century
artist Jan van Scorel, as well as the
largest collection of Rietveld
furniture in the world.
AGNIETEN
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
Almshouses
The Pallaeskameren (Pallaes rooms) are 12
little almshouses built on the instructions of
Maria van Pallaes in 1651.The inhabitants had
free accommodation and a certain amount
of food and drink annually.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and p410
UTRECHT 205
OF
1288732). ( Wed, Fri &
NH
Sat. _ Liberation festival:
HT
TE
NIEUWE GRAC
UN
Festival: end Sep.
BR
S T R A AT Transport
Stationsplein.
@ Stationsplein.
RK
LWE
SBO
VAA
SER
. Catharijneconvent
GRACHT
A AT
STR
Key
Recommended route
Nederlands
Spoorwegmuseum
(Dutch railway museum)
Old carriages and steam
locomotives can be seen
Sonnenborgh in the former Maliebaan
The 19th-century Station, dating back to the
observatory, now home 19th century. The exhibition
to an astronomy room features the history of
museum, was the Dutch railways.
established on one
of the four bulwarks
along the Singel.
206 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
1 Nationaal Museum ST
JA N
SC
RG
O ED E R
HO
HT TE
M I NR E BR
BU
EN
KR
LI N G .
TR A AT
A AT
A NN AS OM
ST
Vredenburg M
R
E
HOF
3 Aboriginal Art Museum
ST Stadhuis
AD KERK
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D O M ST
HB
A C H TE
T E EG
. W EERDZ I J G
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L A U WE RS
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VI
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ST EE G
SM
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MA
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Domkerk
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National Museum
KER
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STR
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PLA
T
R IA D S
MA WE TR A N
N
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Aboriginal
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R.
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Grac
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CH
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GER
UW
BUR
Rietveld
SP
HAM Schrder-Huis
RIN
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GW
TRAA
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HAV
LAN
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0 metres 200
T
G RA CH
e
GE
E
IJN
AR
Gr
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0 yards 200 TRA CA STE
ANS
ach
Z WA
T
Museum
t
Catharijneconvent
T
NIE
AA
T O LS T
TR Nederlands
NS
I L E Spoorwegmuseum
UW
SPR
ZU
E EG ZI
T
AA
ST R
IN G
STR STR
ND MEE
Key BRA TES
WEG
KOR
.
JD E
Centraal Museum,
T Universiteitsmuseum
R AA
Street-by-street map (pp2045) E EST
E SM
NG
LA
. Sliding Partitions
Using sliding partitions, the top floor
could be divided into separate rooms
for Mrs Schrders children.
Telephone Seat
The house was to reflect the
modern times in which it was
designed, and so functional items
like the telephone and fuse box
were given a prominent location.
De Stijl
This Dutch artistic movement, founded in 1917, aimed to integrate
art further into everyday life. Proponents wanted to bring painting
and architecture closer together in a new way. The use of colour in
the Rietveld Schrderhuis is one expression of this idea. Rietveld
was a member of De Stijl from 1919, though he disagreed with
certain ideas held by others in the group (see p132).
De Stijl member Theo van Doesburg was mainly interested in straight lines and Intercom
primary colours. The geometric surfaces of this painting do not depict reality but The Schrders intercom sign
offer a glimpse of universality. instructed visitors to First ring.
If no answer use mouthpiece.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and p410
UTRECHT 209
Gerrit Rietveld
The architect
VISITORS CHECKLIST
always used scale
The skylight in the Practical Information
models when
roof above the stairs Road Map C4. Prins Hendriklaan
designing houses,
allows additional 50, Utrecht. Tel 030-2362310. Open
but could also
light to reach the for guided tours only. Closed 1 Jan,
draw excellent
top floor. 27 Apr, 25 Dec.& ^ 8 11am
floor plans
5pm TueSun (book through
(contrary to what
website). centraalmuseum.nl
was often said).
Transport
@ 8.
. Rietveld Furniture
In 1918, Rietveld
designed what we now
know as the Red Blue
Chair. It was originally
finished in clear
varnish; only in 1923 did
Rietveld paint it in what
would become classic
De Stijl colours.
. Disappearing Corner
The dining corner has a spectacular
feature: when the windows are opened,
the corner disappears. Formerly the view
from here was panoramic but in 1939,
much to Rietvelds consternation, a road
was built just next to the house.
210 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
e Amersfoort
Road Map C4. * 149,700.
@ n Breestraat 1 (0900-
1122364). ( Thu, Fri & Sat.
vvvamersfoort.nl
E Mondriaanhuis voor
Constructieve en Concrete Kunst
Kortegracht 11. Tel 033-4600170.
Open 11am5pm TueFri, noon5pm
Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
25 Dec. mondriaanhuis.nl
E Kunsthal KAdE
Eemplein 77. Tel 033-4225030.
Open 11am5pm TueFri, noon5pm
SatSun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec.
0 7 = kunsthalkade.nl
E Kamp Amersfoort
Loes van Overeemlaan 13, Leusden.
Onze Lieve Vrouwetoren, a church tower Tel 033-4613129. Open TueSun. Von Gimborn Arboretum, one of the
in Amersfoort kampamersfoort.nl Netherlands largest gardens
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and p410
UTRECHT 211
Y Kasteelpark Duurstede
Langs de Wal 7. Castle: Open AprOct:
TueSun (by appt). Park: Open daily.
y Amerongen
Road Map C4. * 7,000. @
n 0343-412015.
SOUTH
HOLLAND
For tourists, South Holland is pure delight. Although
densely populated, the province still has plenty of open
space and offers a remarkable range of attractions for
visitors of all kinds. The landscape is typically Dutch, with
large areas of reclaimed land dotted with windmills and grazing cattle.
From Roman times on, South Holland was port of Rotterdam, one of the largest in
principally a low-lying swampy delta as the world, and The Hague, home of the
the various courses of the river Rhine Dutch government, the royal family and
reached the sea. The influence of the the International Court of Justice. Delft is
counts of Holland (9th13th centuries), famous for its exquisite hand-painted
who took up residence in The Hague, porcelain and china, while Gouda is
attracted trade with Flanders, Germany renowned for its cheese. The North Sea
and England, and settlements became coast has charming resorts, from busy
towns. Leidens university, the oldest in the Scheveningen, with its attractive pier, to
country, was founded as long ago as 1565. the smaller seaside towns of Katwijk and
Peat extraction for fuel created lakes, Noordwijk, with long sandy beaches. It is
reclaimed land (see pp267) was turned an ideal region for family holidays and for
into productive farmland, and the Dutch children of all ages.
dairy industry flourished. Other products Visitors in spring are in for a treat when
in international demand included beer they tour the north of the province.
and textiles and, in more recent times, Bulb fields erupt in a riot of colour, and
year-round flowers and the famous Dutch the Keukenhofs flower gardens are
bulbs. Overseeing all this activity is the simply unforgettable.
Servants waiting for the queen next to her Golden Coach on the third Tuesday of September (Prinsjesdag)
Sunrise over the windmills at Kinderdijk
214 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
Wassenaar
SCHEVENINGEN
THE HAGUE
Rijswijk
Monster
Wateringen
Europoort
BRIELLE Vlaardingen
Spijkenisse Hoogvliet
O
ud
Goeree e M a as
HELLEVOETSLUIS
GOEDEREEDE Ha Oud-Beijerland
rin
gv
lie
Greenhouses in the Westland
t
MIDDELHARNIS
O verf lak ke e
Getting Around
Oude-Tonge
South Holland has a comprehensive system of roads,
and both big cities and small towns can be reached
equally quickly. However, during the morning and
afternoon rush hours you should watch out for traffic
jams. In the centres of the big cities it is best to leave
your car in a car park, as finding an on-street parking
space can often be a problem. Trains are a fast way of
getting from A to B. As a rule you will find a train for your
particular destination departing every quarter or half
hour. Lisse and the bulbfields, Nieuwpoort and the
towns on South Hollands islands can be reached only
by local bus. VVV and ANWB tourist information offices
provide information on cycling routes. One of the Keukenhofs spectacular flowering fields
For map symbols see back flap
SOUTH HOLLAND 215
Sights at a Glance
2 Lisse q Gouda pp2423
3 Keukenhof w Reeuwijkse Plassen
4 Leiden pp21821 e Nieuwpoort
5 The Hague pp2229 r Gorinchem
6 Scheveningen t Leerdam
S
D
8 Maassluis u Kinderdijk
FI
p Middelharnis
a Goedereede
Roelofarendsveen
Tour
1 Bulb Fields pp21617
LEIDEN Nieuwkoop
Voorschoten
Alphen aan
den Rijn
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
Bodegraven
Boskoop
Zoetermeer
Waddinxveen REEUWIJKSE
PLASSEN
Bleiswijk GOUDA
ZUID-HOLLAND
Schoonhoven
Capelle aan
den IJssel
NIEUWPOORT
Lek
ROTTERDAM Bergambacht
Meerkerk
LEERDAM
Ridderkerk KINDERDIJK
Alblasserdam
Barendrecht
Papendrecht GORINCHEM
Zwijndrecht
Sliedrecht
DORDRECHT
s-Gravendeel
Strijen
Holl ie p
an ds D
Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border The Flemish Gothic Stadhuis in Gouda
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p398 and pp41011
216 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
Amsterdam
1 Cruquiusmuseum
Haarlem
In this former steam-
driven pumping
Zandvoort station, you
can see how
The dunes of North Holland the people
of Holland
0 kilometres 4
managed to
keep the water
Aalsmeer
0 miles 4 in check
(see pp1923).
Amsterdamse
3 Keukenhof Waterleiding- 2 Linnaeushof
er
5 Sassenheim
To the west of the town 4 Lisse
lie the ruins of Burcht Lisses museum
Teylingen, the showcases the bulb-
11th-century castle growing industry; you
where Jacoba of can also take a boat
e
of Holland, died
vaart v
Aalsmeer Route
North Sea
Roads
Kager-
plassen
Rijnsburg Leiden/
The Hague
7 Katwijk 6 Voorhout
An unusual early 17th-century Panorama Tulip Land is a panoramic
lighthouse stands to the north painting of the Bollenstreek. Its
of this coastal town, which lies dimensions are enormous: 63 m
on the estuary of the Oude Rijn. (207 ft) wide and 4 m (13 ft) tall. A tulip field in the Bollenstreek
Flowering Bulbs
Flowers such as gladioli,
lilies, narcissi, hyacinths, irises,
crocuses and dahlias are mainly
grown in the Bollenstreek.
By far the most important,
though, is the tulip, which
originally came from Turkey
and was cultivated by Carolus
Clusius in 1593 for the first time
in the Netherlands.
Aladdin tulips
2 Lisse Environs
Just outside Lisse is Huys Dever,
Map B3. * 20,000. @ 50
(from Leiden & Haarlem) & 90 (from a fortified residential tower which
Noordwijk). n Heereweg 219 (0252- dates from the second half of the
417900). vvvlisse.nl 14th century. The permanent exhi-
China Pink tulips bition at the tower illustrates the
The best time to see Lisse is lives of the families who lived here.
at the end of April, when the
colourful Bloemen Corso P Huys Dever
(flower parade) takes place (see Heereweg 349a. Tel 0252-411430.
p36). A vibrant procession of Open 25pm TueSun. Closed
floats passes from Noordwijk public hols. 8 by arrangement.
to Haarlem, where they are kasteeldever.nl
brightly illuminated at night
and can still be seen the next
Tahiti narcissi day. On the two days before the 3 Keukenhof
parade, you can see close-up Map B3. @ 854 (from Leiden Centraal
how the floats are decorated Station), 858 (from Schiphol airport).
in the Hobaho halls in Lisse. Tel 0252-465555. Open late Marmid-
The Museum De Zwarte Tulp May: daily. & 8am6pm. 7 0
(black tulip museum) covers keukenhof.nl
the history of bulb growing
and illustrates the life cycle of Lying in a wooded park of 32 ha
bulbs. It also touches upon the (79 acres) close to Lisse, the
Minnow narcissi tulipomania in 162037 (see Keukenhof is one of the most
pp345), when investors pushed spectacular public gardens in the
up the demand for rare tulip world. It was set up in 1949 as a
bulbs to such an extent that showcase for bulb-growers and
they were worth their weight currently has around 6 million
in gold. bulbs planted in it. Fields are full
of dazzling narcissi, hyacinths and
Bloemen Corso tulips in bloom from the end of
bloemencorsobollenstreek.nl March to the end of May. You can
E Museum De Zwarte Tulp also see the white blossom of the
Heereweg 219. Tel 0252-417900. Japanese cherry tree in the park
Open MarAug: 11am5pm; Sep early in the season and, later,
Blue Jacket hyacinths Feb: 15pm. Closed public hols. & the bright flowers of the azaleas
7 - museumdezwartetulp.nl and rhododendrons.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3978 and pp41011
218 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
4 Street-by-Street: Leiden
Leiden is a thriving university town which dates from . Rijksmuseum
Roman times. The town developed because of its van Oudheden
This squat statue of a
position on a branch of the Rhine and is still an
kneeling treasury
important trade centre. Some excellent museums scribe is just one of
chart Leidens eventful past, including the Golden the many impressive
Age, when the town was a centre for world trade (see Egyptian artifacts on
display in this fascinating
pp523). Rembrandt van Rijn (see pp3031) was born
museum of antiquities.
here in June 1606 a plaque on the faade of a
Weddesteeg house marks his birthplace. During
term time, the streets of Leiden are busy with
students cycling between lectures or frequenting
the cafs and bookshops. EBRU
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Aristocrats, professors
and textile families all Dutch Classicism can be
contributed to the face seen in the university
of the Leiden canals. buildings on Rapenburg.
Het Gravensteen
Part of the law faculty is now
accommodated in this former
counts prison, built between
the 13th and 17th centuries.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3978 and pp41011
LEIDEN 219
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map B3. * 119,000.
vvvleiden.nl
n Stationsweg 26 (071-
5166000). ( Wed & Sat.
_ Zomerfestival: early Jul; Relief
of Leiden Celebrations: 2 & 3 Oct.
Transport
Stationsplein.
Hoogstraat
The Hoogstraat, where two canals meet,
is popular for its floating terraces and
basement restaurants.
G
G E Korenbeursbrug
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The Stadhuis
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(1596) by Lieven
de Key.
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S TR you will find antique shops,
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Key
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Recommended route
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. Pieterskerk
EG
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Exploring Leiden
Leiden is famous for its university, which is the oldest in the
country. It was founded in 1575, one year after the Beggars of
the Sea (see p245) freed the town from a protracted siege by the
Spanish (see p53). As a reward for their endurance, William of
Orange offered the people of Leiden the choice between a
university and the abolition of taxes. The people made a shrewd
choice and the town went on to become a centre of intellectual
progress and religious freedom. English Puritan dissidents, victims
of persecution in their homeland, were able to settle here in the
17th century before undertaking their journey to the New World.
One of the 35 almshouses in Leiden
E Museum de Lakenhal to be missed is the large bronze
Oude Singel 2832. Tel 071-5165360. cooking pot said to have been Clusius, who introduced the
Closed to the public, renovations left by the Spaniards during tulip to Holland (see pp345),
underway (scheduled to reopen in the relief of Leiden in 1574. The became the first professor of
2018). & 7 8 - lakenhal.nl spicy casserole it contained botany at the University of
In the 17th century, the lakenhal is re-created as a stew cooked Leiden. The Hortus Botanicus
(cloth merchants hall) was the every year on 3 October to features a reconstruction of his
centre of the Leiden textile commemorate Dutch victory walled garden. Also worth a look
industry. Arent van s Gravesande over the Spanish. are the tropical greenhouses, the
designed the building in 1640 in rose garden and the Von Siebold
Dutch Classical style. The munic- Y Hortus Botanicus Leiden Japanese memorial garden.
ipal museum has been here since Rapenburg 73. Tel 071-5275144.
1874. The showpiece of the Open summer: 10am6pm daily; E Museum Boerhaave
collection, which was rescued winter: 10am4pm TueSun. Lange St Agnietenstraat 10. Tel 071-
from the Pieterskerk (St Peters Closed 3 Oct, 24 Dec1 Jan. 8 & 5214224. Closed to the public,
Church) during the religious 7 partial. hortusleiden.nl renovations underway. 8 & 7 -
disputes of 1566 (see pp567) is The botanical garden of Leiden = museumboerhaave.nl
The Last Judgment (15267), a was founded in 1590 as part of Located in the former Caecilia
triptych in Renaissance style by the university. A number of its Hospital in the centre of Leiden,
Lucas van Leyden. Other Leiden trees and shrubs are particularly this is the Netherlands National
artists, from Rembrandt old, such as a laburnum dating Museum of the History of
to Theo van Doesburg, from 1601. In 1593, Carolus Science and Medicine. It is
are also featured. named after the great
The museum has Dutch professor of
displays of silver, medicine Herman
glass, tin and tiles Boerhaave (1668
and explores 1738). The collec-
the history of tion reflects the
Leiden. Not development
Lucas van Leydens triptych of The Last Judgment, in the Museum de Lakenhal
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3978 and pp41011
LEIDEN 221
of mathematics, astronomy,
physics, chemistry and medicine. The Pilgrim Fathers
Exhibits range from a magnificent In the 17th century, the
15thcentury astrolabe and Netherlands was a refuge for
pendulum clocks by Christiaan English Puritans. Minister John
Huygens (162995) to surgeons Robinson (15751625) founded a
equipment of yesteryear and church in Leiden in 1609, where
early electron microscopes. he inspired his congregation with
his dream of the New World. The
E Museum Volkenkunde Pilgrim Fathers set out in 1620 from
Steenstraat 1. Tel 0715168800. Delfshaven aboard the Speedwell,
Open 10am5pm TueSun & public but the ship proved to be unsea
hols. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 3 Oct, worthy. They then crossed the
25 Dec. & 7 - = Atlantic from Plymouth, England,
volkenkunde.nl
on the Mayflower, but Robinson
This excellent ethnological stayed behind, too ill to travel. The Mayflower crossing the
museum, founded in 1837, has He died in Leiden in 1625. Atlantic Ocean
collections which feature non
Western cultures, such as
ethnographic items brought century, stands in the middle of There is a marvellous view of
by the German explorer a shady square that seems Leidens historic centre from
Philipp von Siebold from to be from a different age. the gallery.
Japan in the 19th It is worth a visit for its austere
century. The vast interior and the carefully E Rijksmuseum van
collection focuses restored Van Oudheden
on the interaction Hagerbeer Rapenburg 28. Tel 09006600600.
between various organ (1639 Open 10am5pm TueSun & public
cultures and their 43), one of the worlds hols. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 3 Oct, 25
links with the few meantonetuned Dec. & 7 8 - = rmo.nl
Netherlands; organs. The floor of This museum has one of the
hence Indonesia Heraldic lion at De Burcht the nave is covered top seven Egyptian collections
has a consider with worn stones, in the world, the centrepiece
able amount of floor space. The which mark the graves of famous of which is the 2,000yearold
museum covers practically the 17thcentury intellectuals such as Taffeh Temple. Other civilizations
whole world, from the Arctic Puritan leader John Robinson, from the Near East and from
to Oceania. physician Hermanus Boerhaave Classical Antiquity are also
and Golden Age artist Jan Steen. represented. The section on
E Naturalis Biodiversity archaeology of the Netherlands
Center + De Burcht gives visitors an idea of what
Darwinweg 2. Tel 0715687600. Burgsteeg. Open daily. the Low Countries were like
Open 10am5pm daily. Closed 27 The Burcht is a 12thcentury from prehistoric times to the
Apr, 3 Oct, 25 Dec. & 7 8 - = fortress which features a still Middle Ages. Mummies,
naturalis.nl intact circular wall and textiles and shoes, musical
Opened in 1998, the national crenellated battlements. At the instruments and fragments of
natural history museum, attracted foot of the 12m (39ft) artificial Roman mosaics and frescoes
a record number of visitors. It mound is a wroughtiron gate form just part of the museums
provides a truly fascinating insight covered in heraldic symbols. impressive holdings.
into the evolution of the earth and
its inhabitants with displays of
fossils more than a million years
old, and lifelike replicas of animals,
stones and minerals. The star
exhibit is a complete skeleton of a
Tyrannosaurus rex, discovered in
Montana in 2013. Special exhi
bitions for children are also held.
P Pieterskerk
Pieterskerkhof 1a. Tel 0715124319.
Open 11am6pm daily, except when
church is hired out (check website).
Closed 3 Oct. 7 pieterskerk.com
This impressive Gothic cruciform
church, built mainly in the 15th A drawbridge across the Oude Rijn in Leiden
222 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
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visited in the Paleis Lange Voorhout, N BE
where Queen Emma and Queen E
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Gevangenpoort EU
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The Dutch lion adorns RD
the faade of the IJK
Gevangenpoort
(prison gate), originally
the main gate of the
14th-century castle of
the counts of Holland.
From the 1400s, it was
used as a prison.
Key
Recommended route
0 metres 50
Galerij Prins Willem V
This was the first public art gallery 0 yards 50
in the Netherlands.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3978 and pp41011
THE HAGUE 223
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Jantje, a statue based on
a Dutch nursery rhyme, Practical Information
points to the Binnenhof. Road Map B4. * 497,000.
denhaag.com
n Spui 68 (0900-3403505).
( MonFri. _ Scheveningen
Sand Sculpture Festival: May;
Scheveningen Vlaggetjesdag:
end of May/beg of Jun; Parkpop:
LD
Transport
UR
IN
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L
P
TE
HO
HOFW
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E Museum Bredius
Lange Vijverberg 14. Tel 070-362
0729. @ v Open 11am5pm
TueSun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
& museumbredius.nl
Art historian and art collector
Abraham Bredius was also
director of the Mauritshuis
(see pp2267) from 1895 to
1922. On his death in 1946
he bequeathed his collection
of 17th- and 18th-century
art, including paintings by
Rembrandt and Jan Steen,
to the city of The Hague. The
elegant 18th-century mansion
on the north side of the
Hofvijver which houses the
museum also has fine antique
furniture and porcelain and
Landscape by Fading Light by Albert Cuyp (Museum Bredius) beautifully engraved silver.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp398 and pp41011
THE HAGUE 225
P Vredespaleis
Carnegieplein 2. @ 22 and 24.
v 17. Tel 070-3024242. Open Tue
Sun (Visitors Centre). 8 SatSun.
Closed public hols and when
court is in session. & 7 ^
vredespaleis.nl
In 1899, The Hague hosted the
first international peace
conference. Contributions from
the courts members decorate
the interior of the mock-Gothic
Vredespaleis (peace palace),
designed by the French architect
Louis Cordonnier and completed
The Classical-style Paleis Noordeinde, where King Willem-Alexander has his offices in 1913. The International Court
of the United Nations, formed
E Escher in Het Paleis P Paleis Noordeinde in 1946, is based here.
Lange Voorhout 74. Tel 070-427 7730. Noordeinde. Open only the Paleistuin
@ v Open 11am5pm TueSun. (palace garden) is open to the public. P Passage
Closed 1 Jan, 3rd Tue in Sep, 25 Dec. In 1640, Stadholder Frederik Between the Spuistraat, Hofweg
& escherinhetpaleis.nl Hendrik had his mothers and Buitenhof. @ v
A large proportion of MC Eschers house converted into a grand A visit to The Hague would not
(18981972) work is displayed palace built in the Dutch be complete without a stroll
in the Paleis Lange Voorhout, classical style. The property along the elegant Passage, the
including well-known works of the Princes of Orange since only covered arcade remaining
such as Day and Night, Rising and William V (17481806), this from the 19th century in the
Falling and Belvdre. In addition to is the building where the Netherlands. Unusual specialist
graphic works, there are sketches, present King of the Netherlands, shops can be found here, such
personal documents and Willem-Alexander, has his as the umbrella and fountain
photographs. The museum also offices, and also where he pen shop. The arcade wing that
features the Escher Experience, a leaves from for the state leads to the Hofweg was added
virtual journey through his world. opening of parliament. in 19289.
2 Museum De Gevangenpoort
3 Galerij Prins Willem V Het Paleis
4 Museum Bredius UT T E
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Street-by-street map (pp2223)
Mauritshuis
After he was recalled as captain general of
Brazil, Johan Maurits of Nassau commissioned
this house. It was completed in 1644 by Pieter
Post in the North Dutch Classical style with
influences from the Italian Renaissance and
has a marvellous view of the Hofvijver.
After the death of Maurits in 1679, the house
passed into state hands and, in 1822, became
the home of the royal painting collection.
Though the collection is not large, it contains . The Anatomy Lesson of
Dr Nicolaes Tulp (1632)
almost exclusively superior works by old Rembrandts painting of doctors
masters. This, combined with the exquisite examining a corpse reflects the
presentation in elegant period rooms, makes burgeoning contemporary interest
the Mauritshuis one of the finest galleries in in anatomy and science.
the Netherlands.
Museum Guide
The three floors of this museum are hung with paintings from Ground floor
top to bottom. To feature all aspects of the collection, the
exhibits are constantly changing. The masterpieces are always
on view, although not always hanging in the same location.
Presentation is pleasantly haphazard, but all the paintings
are labelled with the artist, title and year. A new
exhibition wing has been added to the museum,
connected to the historic building by an
underground foyer, which also houses a
brasserie and a well-stocked shop.
Basement
Bordello Scene
(1658) This typical 17th-century
genre painting of a brothel
scene by Frans van Mieris
de Oude (163581) has an Main
unmistakable erotic undertone. staircase
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3978 and pp41011
THE HAGUE 227
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Plein 29, The Hague.
Tel 070-3023456.
mauritshuis.nl
Open 16pm Mon, 10am6pm
TueSun (to 8pm Thu). Closed
1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 8 -=
Transport
From Den Haag CS: @ 22.
v 2, 3, 4, 6, 15. From Den
Haag HS: @ 18. v 1.
Key to Floorplan
Portrait gallery
. Girl with a Pearl Earring (1665) 15th- and early 16th-century works
At the mid-point of his career, 18th-century Flemish paintings
Johannes Vermeer painted this Golden room
haunting portrait of a girl wearing a
pearl earring. Stories about the true 17th-century Dutch paintings
origins of the girl abound. Non-exhibition space
228 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
The Gemeentemuseum
(municipal museum) was the The picturesque Japanese Garden in Park Clingendael
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3978 and pp41011
THE HAGUE 229
World War II, when the Netherlands Kurhaus is Sea Life Scheveningen,
was occupied and the most senior where you can look through trans-
German authorities took up quar- parent tunnels at stingrays, sharks
ters in Huis Clingendael. At the and many other sea creatures.
centre of the park lies the famous Muzee Scheveningen is devoted
Japanese Garden, which was laid to the history of the village and
out in 1903 on the instructions of the spa. Tours of Scheveningen
Baroness Margurite Mary after a lighthouse can also be booked.
trip to Japan. The tea house and Designed by Wim Quist,
all the stones and ornaments in Museum Beelden aan Zee
the garden were brought over (seaside sculpture museum)
from Japan by boat at the time. can be found on the boulevard,
half-hidden by a sand dune.
Madurodam The model city of Madurodam Contemporary sculptures on
George Maduroplein 1. @ 22. v 9. the theme of the human figure
Tel 070-4162400. Open JanMar & are shown in the light rooms,
NovDec: 11am5pm; AprAug: 6 Scheveningen on the terraces and in the garden.
9am8pm; SepOct: 9am7pm; Although the seaside resort
2431 Dec: 10am7pm. & 7 0 Road Map B4. * 52,000. @ 22.
v 1. n Gevers Deynootweg 990-58 has all but swallowed up the
madurodam.nl
(0900-3403505). ( Thu. original fishing village, there is
Madurodam depicts the still a harbour and a large fish
Netherlands in miniature it This pleasant seaside resort is market. Fishing boat trips can
consists of replicas of historical just 15 minutes by tram from be booked on the southern side
buildings such as the Binnenhof the centre of The Hague. Like so of the harbour a fun outing
in The Hague (see p224), canal- many of the North Sea beach for the afternoon.
side houses in Amsterdam and resorts, Scheveningen had its
the Euromast tower in Rotterdam heyday in the 19th century. O Sea Life Scheveningen
(see p236), built to a scale of 1:25. Nowadays it is a mixture of Strandweg 13. Tel 070-3542100.
Other models include Schiphol faded charm and modern Open 10am6pm daily (to 8pm Jul
Airport, windmills, polders, bulb garishness, though it remains a & Aug). Closed 25 Dec. & 7 -
fields and some examples of the popular holiday resort because sealife.nl
countrys modern architecture. At of its long sandy beach and the E Muzee Scheveningen
night, the streets and buildings Pier, which, after years of Neptunusstraat 92. Tel 070-3500830.
are lit up by 50,000 tiny lamps. neglect, has been renovated and Open 10am5pm TueSat, noon
Madurodam was opened in reopened in 2015. There are many 5pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr,
1952 by Queen Juliana. JML restaurants serving seafood. 25 Dec. & - = muzee.nl
Maduro designed the town in The impressive Kurhaus, E Museum Beelden aan Zee
memory of his son George, who designed in the Empire style and Harteveltstraat 1. Tel 070-3585857.
died at Dachau concentration now a luxurious hotel, was built in Open 10am5pm TueSun.
camp in 1945. Profits go to 1885, when Scheveningen was still Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & -
childrens charities. a major spa town. Not far from the = beeldenaanzee.nl
Thsuki-no-hikari (Light of the Moon) by Igor Mitoraj in the dunes of the Museum Beelden aan Zee
230 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
7 Street-by-Street: Delft
Delft dates back to 1075, its prosperity based on the
weaving and brewing industries. In October 1654, however,
an enormous explosion at the national arsenal destroyed
much of the medieval town. The centre was rebuilt at the
end of the 17th century and has remained relatively
unchanged since then houses in Gothic and Renaissance
styles still stand along the tree-lined canals. Town life is
concentrated on the Markt, which has the town hall at one
end and the Nieuwe Kerk at the other. Visitors can dip into
the scores of shops selling expensive, hand-painted
Delftware or take a tour of local factories, the shops . Stedelijk Museum
Het Prinsenhof
of which are often reasonably priced. William of Orange was killed
on this staircase in 1584, the
bullet holes still visible.
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Renaissance style.
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Sint-Hippolytuskapel
This austere red-brick
chapel (1396) was used
Key
as an arsenal during the
Reformation (see pp567). Recommended route
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3978 and pp41011
DELFT 231
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map B4. * 95,000.
delft.nl
n Hippolytusbuurt 4. ( Tue,
Thu, Sat. _ Mooi Weer Spelen
(street theatre): mid-Jun; Delft
Chamber Music Festival: early Aug.
Transport
Stationsplein.
T
AA
S TR . Nieuwe Kerk
R
OO The church was built in several
CH
V phases spread over many
R
O years. This statue of William
U
W of Orange stands in the
J middle of his opulent
U
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Koornbeurs (1650)
The faade of the
old meat hall is
decorated with Stadhuis (1618)
animal heads. After The Renaissance-style town hall was
1871, the building designed by Hendrick de Keyser.
was used as a The building is erected around
corn exchange. a 13th-century Gothic tower.
232 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
Exploring Delft
Attractive Delft is world-famous for its blue-and-white pottery
and is renowned in Holland as being the resting place of
William of Orange (153384), the father of the Netherlands.
William led the resistance against Spanish rule in the 80 Years
War (see p53) from his Delft headquarters; his victory meant
religious freedom and independence for the Dutch. Delft was
the Republics main arsenal in the 17th century; an explosion of
gunpowder destroyed a large part of the town in 1654. Artist
Johannes Vermeer (163275) was born and lived in Delft.
E Stedelijk Museum
Het Prinsenhof
St-Agathaplein 1. Tel 015-2602358.
Open 11am5pm daily & public hols.
Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec. & =
prinsenhof-delft.nl
This peaceful former convent
was the scene of William of
Oranges assassination. It now
houses Delfts history museum,
with pottery, tapestries and
portraits of royalty. In 1572, during
the uprising against the Spanish,
William commandeered the
convent as his headquarters. In
1584, a fanatical Catholic, Balthasar
Geraerts, shot and killed him on
The Nieuwe Kerk overlooking Delft market the instructions of Philip II of Spain.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3978 and pp41011
DELFT 233
Delftware
Delftware (see pp323) stems from majolica,
introduced to the Netherlands in the 16th
century by Italian immigrants who had settled
around Delft and Haarlem and begun producing
wall tiles with Dutch designs, such as birds and
flowers. By the next century, however, Dutch
traders had started to deal in delicate Chinese
porcelain; this eventually led to the collapse
of the market for the less refined Dutch
earthenware. Towards 1650, though, the
Chinese example was adopted in the
Netherlands and craftsmen designed plates,
vases and bowls with pictures of Dutch
landscapes, biblical tableaux and scenes
from everyday life. De Porceleyne
Fles factory, which dates from 1652, is one
of the several Delftware potteries open to
the public for tours. 17th-century hand-painted Delft tiles
E Jenever Museum
Lange Haven 74. Tel 010-2469676.
Open noon5pm TueSun & public
hols. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 & 26
Dec. 7 jenevermuseum.nl
E Stedelijk Museum
Hoogstraat 112. Tel 010-2463666.
Open 10am5pm TueSun.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. 7 - =
Genever and corn brandy, products of the genever capital of Schiedam stedelijkmuseumschiedam.nl
234 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
0 Street-by-Street: Rotterdam
This route takes you through the area to . Schielandhuis
the south of the town centre, which was Built between 1662
and 1665, the
devastated by heavy bombing in May Schielandhuis is one of
1940. On your way you will see the Witte the few surviving
Huis (White House), one of the few buildings from the
buildings spared by the bombs. Further 17th century.
on you will pass by some unusual
modern architecture, such as the cube-
shaped apartments, Het Potlood (the
pencil), and the maritime museum,
devoted to the history of shipping. In
front of this museum is a monument
by Ossip Zadkine, which is one of the
symbols of Rotterdam. The undeveloped
area around Station Blaak was completely
built up before the bombing.
BL
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. De Verwoeste Stad
The statue De Verwoeste Stad (The
GL
ES
MPJ
BOO
De Buffel
The old armoured vessel De Buffel,
Key
now open for visitors, was for many
years a training ship. Recommended route
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3978 and pp410411
ROTTERDAM 235
Erasmusbrug
VISITORS CHECKLIST
(Erasmus Bridge)
The glittering
Practical Information
Erasmusbrug is now
Road Map B4. * 598,500.
one of the symbols
rotterdam.info
of Rotterdam.
n Coolsingel 1957 (010-7900
185). ( TueSun. _ Film
festival: Jan; ROBIN Rotterdam
Unlimited (carnival): Apr;
Metropolis (pop concerts): Jul;
Zomercarnaval: Jul;
Wereldhavendagen: Sep.
Transport
0 metres 150
Station Blaak is an Stationsplein.
0 yards 150 unusual metro and railway @ Stationsplein.
station, designed by
architect HCH Reijnders.
Het Potlood (the pencil), an
unusually shaped apartment
block near Station Blaak, was
designed by P Blom.
. Kubus-Paalwoningen
A bizarre creation (197884) by
architect P Blom, the cube-
shaped apartments are among
the most striking buildings of
VERLENGDE
modern Rotterdam.
WILLEMSBRU
G
Willemswerf
Willemswerf is one of Witte Huis (White House)
Rotterdams highest and most This is one of the few buildings
impressive office blocks. The to survive the World War II
building, which is completely bombing raids. For a long time,
white, was completed in the 45-m (148-ft) building was
1989 and is a design by one of the tallest office blocks
architect WG Quist. in Europe.
236 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
Exploring Rotterdam
Rotterdam is not only a symbol of post-war economic
recovery it has more to offer than endless stretches of
thriving docklands and industrial areas. Rotterdam has
increasingly become one of the most important cultural
centres of the Netherlands. Although the city was a wasteland
immediately after World War II, it quickly recovered and
now boasts one of the countrys largest universities, a park
containing a number of interesting museums and a large zoo.
P Delfshaven
Rotterdam City Tourist Information, Canalside houses in a peaceful corner
Coolsingel 1957 Tel 010-7900185 . q of Delfshaven
Delfshaven, which is outside the
town centre and is mainly famous is the tallest building in the
for being the birthplace of naval town. Before its construction
hero Piet Hein, looks very different began, in 1960, the mayor
from the rest of Rotterdam. This at the time, Van Walsum,
oasis of both history and culture complained that there was
within the modern city consists only enough money to build a
of a few streets with historic 50 m (165 ft) tower. This caused
buildings and a harbour with an uproar, because the mast
A gorilla sitting with her young at old sailing boats. The former was meant to be higher than
Diergaarde Blijdorp warehouses are now shops the Utrecht Domtoren
selling antiques, paintings and (cathedral tower), which was,
O Blijdorp antiquarian books. There are also at 112 m (367 ft), the highest
Blijdorplaan 8. @ 40, 44. Tel 0900- museums and restaurants. building in the country. That
1857. Open 9am6pm daily. & It was from Delfshaven that same evening, the mayor was
h 7 0 = rotterdamzoo.nl the Dutch Pilgrim Fathers left called by rich Rotterdam port
Rotterdam Zoo, often called for America in 1620. barons wanting to contribute
Diergaarde Blijdorp, is in many money to the construction of
ways a unique zoo. Its predec- J Euromast the building. These donations
essor, De Rotterdamsche Parkhaven 20. q Dijkzicht. in part enabled the tower to
Diergaarde (Rotterdam zoo), Tel 010-4364811. Open AprSep: reach 110 m (361 ft). A space
was built in 1857 in the town 9:30am10pm daily; OctMar: tower was later added to the
centre. In 1937, the zoo was 10am10pm daily. & h 0 top of the building for the
moved to Blijdorp polder, euromast.nl Communicatie-70 show in
outside the centre. The architect One of the most famous 1970, bringing the tower to a
Van Ravesteyn designed the symbols of Rotterdam, Euromast total height of 185 m (607 ft).
new zoo and Blijdorp became
one of the first zoos to be
designed by one architect.
Blijdorp is also one of the few
European zoos to have its own
research department. It plays
an important part in breeding
programmes for rare and
endangered species, such as
the black-footed penguin.
For the last few years,
attempts have been made to
convert Blijdorp to the type of
zoo which tries to present the
animals in the most natural
habitat possible. Another
addition at the zoo is the gorilla
island. The huge, extremely The Rotterdam Beurstraverse, or Koopgoot, a bustling shopping mall
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3978 and pp41011
ROTTERDAM 237
Stadhuis
1 Kunsthal N
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CO
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N
n
Three Marys at
the Tomb
(142535) Brothers
Jan and Hubert Van
Eyck collaborated on
this colourful work
depicting the tomb
of the resurrected
Christ. Acquired with
the collection of Ticket desk
D. G. van Beuningen
in 1958.
Library
Ground floor
Courtyard
Exhibition
entrance
Nautilus Cup
(c.1590) The god
Neptune sits on
top of this beautiful
piece from the
Dutch Renaissance.
Key to Floorplan
Entrance to
15th17th centuries temporary
Surrealists exhibitions
Print collection
Applied art and design
Temporary exhibitions Entrance to
Non-exhibition space permanent exhibitions
18th century1945 and Surrealists
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3978 and pp41011
ROTTERDAM 239
La Petite Danseuse
(188081) Impressionist
Stairs Edgar Degas made several
studies in bronze of this
young Belgian dancer.
Auditorium
Basement
Vlaardingen
Schiedam
Delfshaven
Me
Vulca
rw
A4
ehav
Wil
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mi
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Nieu
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en
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A4
Fri
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P r. B n
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a v e n r
Alexanderh Pr ixh
ave
. M n
arg
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tha
A1 ven
5
Pernis
The biggest refinery in the world,
Pernis operates day and night Dry
refining crude oil, which is used to docks
make hundreds of products. Lit up
at night, it looks like something
out of science fiction.
ROTTERDAM 241
Euromast
ave
n Europoort
ash
Ma A total of 29,122 ocean-going vessels and 110,000
inland vessels put in at Rotterdam Port during 2015.
This makes it the busiest port in Europe. The name
Europoort says it all Rotterdam is Europes port.
Rotterdam Port is one of the major employers of the
Netherlands, with more than 300,000 people working
for it either directly or indirectly. Total added value of
the port is more than 28 billion, approximately 10 per
cent of the countrys gross domestic product.
Zuiderpark
0 Kilometres 3
0 miles 3
Key
Bustling Rotterdam port, loading and unloading many millions of
Road containers every year
Railway
242 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
St Janskerk, Gouda
This former Catholic church dating from 1485 was rebuilt in
the Gothic style after it was struck by fire in 1552. The church
received a number of unusual stained-glass windows from
rich Catholic benefactors, such as Philip II of Spain, between
1555 and 1571. After the Reformation (see pp567), the church
became Protestant, but even the fanatical Iconoclasts did
not have the heart to destroy the windows. Prominent
Protestants, including Rotterdam aldermen, donated stained-
glass windows to the church up to 1604. The stained-glass
windows are heavily symbolic of the politics of the time
Bible stories had to be covered after the conflict between
the Catholics and Protestants, which led to the Thirty Years
War between Spain and the Netherlands.
The Nave
Judith Beheading Holofernes At 123 m (404 ft), this nave is the
This is a detail from a window which depicts longest in Holland. The floor is
Judith beheading Holofernes. Dirck Crabeth, inset with memorial stones.
who made the window, shows John the
Baptist holding a lamb. Next to him
kneels Jan de Ligne, the count of
Arenberg, who commissioned
the window.
Visitors
entrance
KEY
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Achter de Kerk.
Tel 0182-512684.
Open MarOct: 9am5pm
MonSat; NovFeb: 10am4pm
MonSat, 11am5pm public hols.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. &
7 8 sintjan.com
r Gorinchem y Dordrecht
Road Map C4. * 35,000. Road Map B4. * 118,600. n
n Grote Markt 17 (0183-631525). Spuiboulevard 99 (0900-4636888). (
( Mon am. vvvgorinchem.nl Tue am, Fri & Sat. vvvdordrecht.nl
A group of windmills at Kinderdijk, for centuries draining water from the Alblasserwaard
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3978 and pp41011
SOUTH HOLLAND 245
u Kinderdijk
Road Map B4. @ 90 from Rotterdam
Lombardijen station; 18 from Dordrecht
Centraal Station. n Nederwaard 1
(078-6912830). 0 kinderdijk.nl
ZEELAND
The tiny province of Zeeland, as its name implies, is
inextricably linked with water and the sea. For hundreds
of years, the power of the North Sea and the flooding
deltas of the Maas and Schelde rivers have shaped the
landscape, encouraging resilience in the inhabitants
and the desire to control the elements.
From earliest times, storms and floods become a haven for wildlife and a
have taken their toll here. In the last playground for lovers of watersports.
century, the devastation of two world Towns such as Middelburg, Zierikzee
wars was followed by the disastrous floods and Veere and villages such as Nisse,
and storm surges of 1953. Although St Anna-ter-Muiden and Dreischor have
there are a number of fine churches and lots of old buildings, some of which
public buildings dating as far back as the have been restored to their 17th-century
14th century, in places near the coast grandeur, with attractive features such
there are very few houses more than as bell towers and frescoes.
50 years old. As a result, determination The close relationship with water and
to keep the waters at bay has spawned the sea is well documented in a variety
massive construction and canal building, of small museums. The tangible benefits
with giant dams and land reclamation are perhaps twofold: an abundance of
schemes offering a level of security seafood for the provinces restaurants, and
that has changed the landscape forever. the aforementioned opportunities for
The storms were not all bad news. Traces watersports. Few regions in Europe offer as
of Roman settlements were uncovered, much scope for sailing, windsurfing, water
and lakes and inland waterways have skiing and diving as does little Zeeland.
The 15th-century Stadhuis (town hall) dominating the historic town of Veere
Aerial view of the beach at low tide, Domburg
248 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
Exploring Zeeland
Touring around Zeeland, you cannot ignore the sea. The journey becomes
a small adventure as you encounter bridges, dams and ferry docks.
Sometimes you will travel along a straight ribbon of a road, sometimes a Renesse
windy lane. The ever-present and often turbulent water is never the same
colour for long: it can quickly change from a grey-green reflecting the Schouwen
vivid blue sky to the white of wave crests beneath leaden skies.
Passing over one of the many dams, you will reach the next HAAMSTEDE
Wester-
island, with its own special character. Tholen, for example, is schouwen
quiet almost morose whereas Walcheren is full of
surprises and has a wonderful atmosphere. Travelling
through Zeeland is a journey of discovery. OOSTERSCHELDE
STORMVLOEDKERING
Getting Around
The best way to visit all the
islands of Zeeland is by car. The Noord-
roads here are excellent the A58 DOMBURG Beveland
or the N57 will quickly bring you
to the centre of the province, VEERE
where you can choose one of the Wa l c h e r e n
WESTKAPELLE
smaller roads to take you to your
destination. The through train will Arnemuiden
take you from Amsterdam to
Middelburg and Vlissingen in just
two and a half hours. If you want MIDDELBURG
to explore other islands, you will Oost-Souburg
Zuid-
need to continue on a regional
bus though this can be quite VLISSINGEN
time-consuming. There are many Borssele
cycle paths and it is great fun We
cycling over the dykes. ste
rs
Breskens ch
eld
CADZAND e
Sights at a Glance Zeeuws
1 Oosterschelde Stormvloed-
kering pp25051
2 Middelburg pp2523 Oostburg IJzendijke
St-Anna-
3 Veere ter-Muiden
4 Domburg SLUIS
5 Vlissingen
6 Westkapelle Aardenburg
7 Zierikzee
8 Haamstede
9 Brouwershaven
0 Bruinisse
q St Annaland
w St Maartensdijk Key
e Tholen
Motorway
r Goes
Main road
t Yerseke
y Nisse Minor road
u Hulst Scenic route
i Terneuzen Minor railway
o Sluis National border
p Cadzand Regional border
BROUWERSHAVEN
Serooskerke Dreischor
Duiveland
Divers at Zeelands inland lakes
BRUINISSE
ZIERIKZEE
Ouwerkerk St Philipsland
Colijnsplaat
O ST ANNALAND
os
te Tholen
Kortgene rs
ch ST MAARTENSDIJK
el
de THOLEN
GOES YERSEKE
Kapelle
Beveland
NISSE
Kruiningen
Krabbendijke
Z E E L A N D
Ellewoutsdijk
Kloosterzande
Zaamslag
Axel HULST
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
1 Oosterschelde
Stormvloedkering
Throughout the centuries, the history of the Netherlands
has been dominated by its peoples struggle against the
sea. After the disastrous floods of 1953, which hit Zeeland
The Windsock
heavily, the battle to remove the danger of the sea once When the windsock is full, a
and for all was undertaken in earnest. Now the Dutch seem warning is sounded, and people
to have minimized the threat of flooding by building are advised to avoid driving over
dykes and dams and closing off tidal inlets, all of which the dams and bridges between
the islands. Vigilance saves lives.
has had a major impact on the landscape.
Storms
Storms are a part of everyday life
in Zeeland: storms on the beach
or over the flat polders, storms
which blow the cobwebs away
and storms which make you fear
for your life.
Concrete Piers
VISITORS CHECKLIST
The piers were
made on the
Practical Information
artificial island of
Road Map A45. Deltapark
Neeltje Jans and
Neeltje Jans, Faelweg 5,
then transported
Vrouwenpolder.
by special barges
Open AprOct: 10am5:30pm
to their destination.
daily; NovMar: 10am5pm Wed,
This mighty task
Sat & Sun. & 7 - 0 =
attracted a great
deal of attention. Transport
@ 133.
KEY
The Terps
Man-made mounds,
such as these near Borssele,
were built in the 11th and 12th
centuries to protect farms and
villages from the water.
252 WESTERN NETHERLANDS
Street-by-Street: Middelburg
Middelburg suffered heavy Nazi bombing in 1940.
A lot of what is to be seen in the town today has been
rebuilt, including the Stadhuis (town hall) and the
abbey. The town is still redolent with the atmosphere
of the Golden Age, an era during which the Dutch East
India Company thrived in the port area along the quay. . St-Jorisdoelen
This doelen, the guardsmens
Middelburg is a pretty town and there is plenty to be guild building, was built in
seen on a walk around the centre. Children will be 1582 and destroyed in 1940;
kept busy by Mini Mundi. the faade was rebuilt in 1969.
R
House on the Hofplen, which has
BALA
A
been given a spectacular new wing.
N
E
G
A
NS
W
Key
Recommended route
IN
E
L
P
F
O
H
KOR TE BURG
0 metres 50
G
0 yards 50 RO
EN
M
A
RK
LANGE
T
NO
OR
DS
TR
AA
T
BU
G
RG
UR
GA
NG
E B
UW
NIE
MARK T
. Stadhuis
The 15th-century town hall was The fish market
completely destroyed by fire in already existed in 1559.
1940 and has been partially rebuilt. The passageway, with
A 20th-century extension can be its Tuscan pillars, dates
seen on the northern side. from 1830.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p398 and pp41112
MIDDELBURG 253
Mini Mundi
This miniature
VISITORS CHECKLIST
town, started in
Practical Information
1954, now contains
Road Map A5. * 47,500.
more than 350
minimundi.nl
buildings, and
uitinmiddelburg.nl
forms part of
n Markt 51. Tel 0118674300.
the Mini Mundi
Open MonSat. & 7
amusement park.
( Thu, Sat. Stadhuis: Markt.
8 from Stadhuis (tickets are
available from Markt 51).
Transport
@
SI
N
T
P
IN
IE
TE
E
L
R
P
S
M
T
R
A
A
D
A
T
. Abbey
Many years of restoration work on
the abbey have finally paid off.
DELFT
N
E
KOR TE
D
R N
E RE
D
N TO
O
Lange Jan
Translated as
Long John, this
91-m (300-ft) high
tower belongs to
the Nieuwe Kerk
in the abbey
complex. It has an
FT
IN
octagonal plan
E
EL
L
D
L
E
W
G
N
A
L
S
IN
T
London Quay
JA
Key to Floorplan
Art and History
Chamber of Wonders
Fashion Costume Collection
The museum has a collection of jewellery, accessories
Temporary Exhibitions and costumes, here displayed with video made for the
Non-Exhibition Space museum by contemporary artists.
ZEELAND 255
3 Veere
Road Map A5. * 1,500. @
n Grote Markt 5 (0118-435858).
vvvzeeland.nl
+ Slot Haamstede
Haamstede, near church.
Open grounds only; castle closed
to public.
Environs
Westerschouwen, 5 km (3 miles)
southwest of Haamstede, has
an impressive landscape and
illustrious past. The dunes lie
on the western edge, barren
with a scattering of gorse in
places, in others covered with
coniferous forest.
The medieval Zuidhavenpoort in Zierikzee You can climb to the top of
Plompetoren, the tower of the
7 Zierikzee against Charles the Bold, is now-submerged Koudekerke,
Road Map A4. * 11,100. @
re-enacted each summer. which rises from the salt marshes.
n Nieuwe Haven 7 (0111-410940). On the edge of the dunes is
( Thu. E Stadhuismuseum Slot Moermond.
Meelstraat 6. Tel 0111-454464. Open
With 568 listed houses, Zierikzee 11am5pm TueSat (JulAug: Mon E Plompe Toren
ranks eighth in the list of Sat), 15pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 27 Apr, Corner of Plompetorenweg & Koudek-
Dutch historic towns. The 25 Dec. stadhuismuseum.nl erkseweg. Open 10am6pm daily.
impressive city gateways can
be seen from afar. The many Environs
terraces on the Havenplein A museum in Ouwerkerk is
offer a marvellous view of the two devoted to the floods of 1953.
harbour entrances and ornate
mansion houses on Oude E Museum Watersnood 1953
Haven (old harbour), and the Weg van de Buitenlandse Pers 5.
trickle of the Gouwe, the Tel 0111-644382. Open AprOct:
creek that brought trading 10am5pm daily; NovMar:
prosperity to Zierikzee. The Gothic noon4pm TueSun. &
Gravensteen (15246), watersnoodmuseum.nl
once the home of the Count of
Holland, now houses a fair- Isolated Plompe Toren of the
trade shop. 8 Haamstede now-submerged Koudekerke
The Zierikzee skyline shows Road Map A4. * 3,800. @ n
the still unfinished Dikke Toren Noordstraat 45a (0111-450524). ( Thu.
(great tower), construction of 9 Brouwershaven
which began in 1454. At 130 m Haamstede is a peaceful town Road Map A4. * 1,400. @ ( Mon.
(425 ft), it must have been the built around a church. The
highest point of the colossal Quiet Brouwershaven combines
12th-century St-Lievenskerk, a historic centre with a modern
which burnt to the ground port. The Havenkanaal to the
in 1832. marina and the Stadhuis date
Strolling through the narrow from 1599. The 14th-century
streets along the new and St-Nicolaaskerk (Church of
old harbours, you will chance St Nicholas) is a monument to
upon passageways that past glory. The town prospered
offer glimpses of old faades, again as an outport to Rotterdam
such as of the 14th-century until the Nieuwe Waterweg (new
De Haene house, or the waterway) was built in 1870.
former Stadhuis (155054),
now the Stadhuismuseum. E Brouws Museum
One of the most famous Haven Zuidzijde 1415. Tel 0111-
historic events in Holland, Slot Haamstede, painstakingly restored 691342. Open 15pm MonFri.
the revolt of Zierikzee in 1472 in the 1960s = & brouwsmuseum.nl
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p398 and pp41112
ZEELAND 257
q St Annaland
Road Map B5. * 3,000. @ n see
St Maartensdijk.
r Goes
Road Map A5. * 24,000. @
n Singelstraat 13 (0113-235990).
( Tue, Sat.
i Terneuzen
Road Map A5. * 24,500. @
n Noordstraat 62 (0115-760122).
( Wed, Fri.
Environs
St-Anna-ter-Muiden, 2 km
(1.5 miles) to the west of Sluis,
is a village beloved by artists.
Once prosperous, the town now
has just a few houses around
the square, with a village pump
and the stump of a tower. To
the south is the oldest town
in Zeeland: Aardenburg. The
Romans built a fort here in the
2nd century to ward off Saxon
pirates. Aardenburg later
became one of the most The broad sandy beaches of Cadzand, always popular in summer
NORTHERN
AND EASTERN
NETHERLANDS
Heerenveen
Lemmer
Emmeloord
Almere Nunspeet
0 metres 20
0 yards 20 Zeewolde
Ermelo
Nijkerk
Uithuizen
Haren Winschoten
Drachten Veendam
Zuidlaren
Oosterwolde Assen
Meppel
Coevorden
Kampen
Ommen
Zwolle
OVERIJSSEL
(see pp31625)
Raalte
Almelo
Nijverdal Giethoorn (see pp3223), a village in
the Kop van Overijssel, consists of
Hengelo
farmhouse-style buildings along the
Deventer canal. The village is surrounded by
Enschede woods and lakes, which is why it has
been called the Green Venice.
Apeldoorn
Lochem Haaksbergen
Zutphen
Paleis Het Loo
GELDERLAND (Het Loo Palace)
(see pp33449) The building now
housing the National
Doesburg
Arnhem Winterswijk
Museum (see pp3389)
was constructed in 1692
as a hunting palace
for the stadtholder
William III. The palaces
chief architect was
Jacob Roman; both the
interior and gardens
were designed by
Danil Marot.
264 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
Environmental Policy
In the 1990s, the Dutch government drew up the Natuurbeleidsplan, a
programme designed to make nature reserves accessible to the public.
This is of great importance to the northern and eastern Netherlands, with
their many lakes, woods and polders. The regions ecosystem has been WEST FRISIAN
divided into core areas, development areas and connecting zones in an ISLANDS
attempt to give permanence to the natural environment. The connecting VLIELAND
zones join the areas together. When the policy is fully implemented, it
will aid in the survival of many plant and animal species.
TEXEL
Key
Core area
Natural development area
Existing or planned
connecting zone
NORTH
Existing or planned connecting
zone to crossborder nature reserve HOLLAND
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10
AMSTERDAM
The Waterleidingduinen (water
supply dunes) are only partly Haarlem
open to the public.
B
Read the Signs! Antwerp E L
G I
Most natural areas (or parts of them) in the U M
northern and eastern Netherlands are freely
The adder is the only
accessible. However, some parts are open only
venomous snake in
from sunrise (zonsopkomst) to sunset
Holland and is very rare
(zonsondergang), and it is therefore important to
here. However, this
read the signs. It goes without saying that you
small, distinctive snake
should not make excessive noise, cause damage or
can still be found in
leave litter in the area. Further information is
sandy regions and peat
available at VVV offices, the ANWB and the
moors. In order to feed
Vereniging Natuurmonumenten (tel. 0356559933).
properly, adders require
an extensive habitat.
NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS 265
SCHIERMONNIKOOG
AMELAND
TERSCHELLING GRONINGEN
FRIESLAND
Groningen
Leeuwarden The otter was extinct in Holland for
many years, but has recently
been reintroduced and is
beginning to flourish.
Assen
The golden
plover, a rare
DRENTHE wading bird which
has been put under
pressure by the
reclamation of peat
Lelystad bogs and
heathland, is the
FLEVO-
OVERIJSSEL object of a special
LAND
Zwolle plan that will
enable it to recover
its numbers in
the Netherlands.
Enschede
GELDERLAND
Connecting
zones in
Flevoland
Arnhem linking various
natural areas are
now being set up for,
among others, the common frog, the
polecat, the European water shrew, the
Y
BRABANT
E
G
Eindhoven
LIMBURG
Distinctive Landscapes
The northeast of the Netherlands has a number of
distinctive landscape types, such as the unique mud
flats, or Waddenzee, where the sand and clay is
exposed at low tide; the peat moors in southeast
Groningen; the enchanting heathland of Drenthe;
the endless polder landscape of Flevoland; the
splendid forests of Gelderland (Hoge Veluwe and
The Oostvaardersplassen (lakes),
Posbank) and the magnificent riverscapes and between Lelystad and Almere, make
seascapes in the northeast of Overijssel. up a unique natural landscape. It is a
breeding ground and feeding area for
hundreds of species of birds.
Glasswort is
a wild plant
which grows
in mud flats
and on silt
deposits. It is
a prized
culinary
delicacy.
Rapeseed
plantations are
used for land
improvements
in new polders.
The yellow
fields seem
to stretch
endlessly to
the horizon.
Bulrushes
were once
common in
the region.
The cigars
Polder Landscape
grow only by
fresh water Forests (het Knarbos), lakes (the Oostvaardersplassen) and
and are now coastal lakes (the Veluwemeer) punctuate the flat polder
protected. landscape of the new province of Flevoland (see pp32633).
INTRODUCING THE NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS 267
Common
polypody
occurs in
juniper brush
and in
woodlands
on poor
sandy soil.
The
cranberry
grows in
sphagnum
moss on
peat moors
and in fens.
Forests
One of the best-known and largest forest areas in the
Common
Netherlands is at Hoge Veluwe in the province of Gelderland
sundew, an
(see pp33449), where a variety of animals, such as wild boar
insect-eating
and red deer, are to be found. plant, grows
on heathland
and in the
fenland of
Groningen
and Drenthe.
Cross-
leaved
heath
thrives on
nutrient-
poor, dry,
sandy soil
and in the
troughs of
dunes.
Heather occurs
mainly in sand
Heathland and peat bogs,
typically
The northeastern Netherlands abounds with poor in
delightful heathland. Some of the most picturesque nutrients.
heathland can be found at Drenthe (see pp30615);
herds of sheep still graze in the region of Ellertsveld.
NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS 269
The West Frisian Islands are the remaining still stand. Later, the islands prospered from
fragments of an ancient sandbank that links with the Dutch East India Company
once stretched from Cap Gris Nez in France and, in the 19th century, from whaling.
to Esbjerg in Denmark, a remnant of the Vlieland and Ameland are quieter islands,
last Ice Age. Since Roman times the sea has good for bird-watching. Schiermonnikoog
been eroding this sandbank, creating the is the most isolated, with rare plant life.
shallow Waddenzee behind and washing Nowadays the islands, reached by ferries
away much of the peat soil that lay beyond from the mainland, have much to offer
the dunes. The islands of Griend and the visitor in search of peace and quiet,
Rottumeroog were threatened to such with nature rambles over dunes and salt
an extent that they were abandoned. marsh, and seal- and bird-watching,
Rottumerplatt, too, is uninhabited. especially in summer. The islands quaint
Monks established the first settlements museums are strong on ecology and
as far back as the 8th century; islanders conservation. The best way to get around
made a living from farming, fishing is by bicycle, and visitors will find a wide
and collecting shellfish. On Texel and range of hotels and guesthouses, excellent
Terschelling, the two largest islands, seafood restaurants, and some of the best
churches dating from the 15th century sunsets anywhere.
Sights at a Glance
1 Noorderhaaks 9 Ameland
2 Den Burg 0 Schiermonnikoog
3 De Koog q Rottumerplaat
4 De Slufter w Rottumeroog
5 Den Hoorn
6 Vlieland
7 Griend
8 Terschelling
Hollum
Hoorn
West Midsland
Oost-Vlieland
Richel
GRIEND
VLIELAND
e
e
De Cocksdorp z Harlingen
n
e
DE SLUFTER
d
d
Te x e l
a
W
DE KOOG
Oosterend
DEN BURG
Oudeschild
DEN HOORN
Getting Around
The West Frisian Islands are reached by ferries from
the mainland. Texel is served by TESO (tel. 0222-
369600). Foot passengers can take a bus to De Koog
or De Cocksdorp via Den Burg, or order a taxi-bus
when buying their ticket. Vlieland is served by
Rederij Doeksen (tel. 0900-3635736); cars not
permitted. On arrival, a bus takes passengers to
Posthuis, where there are taxis. Terschelling is served
by Rederij Doeksen (0900-3635736); reservations
recommended for cars. There is a bus service on the
island, and taxis are available on arrival. Ameland is
served by Rederij Wagenborg (tel. 085-4011008);
reservations recommended. There are bus services
to all villages. Schiermonnikoog is served by Rederij
Wagenborg (tel. 085-4011008); foot passengers only.
Bus service and taxi-buses connect the dock and
village. Bicycles can be hired easily.
ROTTUMERPLAAT
ROTTUMEROOG
SCHIERMONNIKOOG
Schiermonnikoog
AMELAND
Buren
Nes
ee
enz
Lauwersoog
d
W ad
Holwerd
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10
Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Scenic route
Minor railway
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3989 and p412
272 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
Bird-watching
Hide
There are many
hides for bird-
watchers on the
mud flats of the
Waddenzee,
allowing the birds
to be observed
without being
disturbed.
Bird Catchers
Bird catchers, whose interests in the Netherlands have
gone far beyond mere hunting, have become an
important pressure group for the protection of birds
and the natural environment. Their organization is
Vogelbescherming Nederland, based in Zeist.
Beak Shapes
People are often surprised at the many varieties of birds that feed on the mud flats. The different
species, however, have managed to avoid competing with one another. The various shapes and
lengths of their beaks are suitable for the assorted types of food that can be found in the water and
in the sand. Ducks get their food from the surface or dive for it, whereas wading birds get their food
from underground what prey at which depth underground depends on the shape of the beak.
Other birds catch fish (spoonbills, cormorants or terns), shellfish (eider ducks) or even other seabirds
(the white-tailed eagle), or steal their food from other birds.
Arctic Tern
This extremely rare bird,
which breeds in the West
Frisian Islands, spends
the winter in the
Antarctic. This gives Sandwich Tern
it the longest This bird has its largest
migratory path Oystercatcher
breeding colony in The oystercatcher is
of all birds. Holland on Griend. Its characteristic of the
dwindling numbers Waddenzee. It forages for
means it requires careful cockles and mussels.
protection.
Bird Species
The wealth of bird species including diving
birds, petrels, cormorants, spoonbills, ducks,
birds of prey, waders, scavengers, seagulls,
terns, razorbills and songbirds that occur in
the Waddenzee is a good reason to ensure
that the area is carefully protected. For many
of the birds, these are the only breeding
grounds in the Netherlands, as they are the
only wetlands remaining in the Netherlands.
Various parts are closed to visitors, and it is
important to observe the regulations in
order to help preserve the bird population.
Avocet
This
magnificent
wading bird
has an upward-
curving bill and
black and
white plumage.
Large numbers of
oystercatchers can be seen
both in winter and in summer.
Black-Tailed Godwit
This wading bird, with fiery
red-brown plumage, is a Eider Duck
bird of passage but spends Ringed Plover The eider duck has breeding
the winters and summers This is an active bird that rarely colonies on Texel, Vlieland and
in the Waddenzee. breeds here but passes Terschelling. The male is far more
through in large numbers. impressive in appearance than
the brown-coloured female.
Red Knot
This bird of passage
Herring Gull stops over sometimes
The herring gull is in summer and
just one of the many sometimes in winter.
varieties of gull that occur here. It is a robust bird,
At more than half a metre (1.5 ft) one that is always
long, it is an impressive bird. on the move.
274 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
The Waddenzee
The Waddenzee is a tidal area whose sand or mud
flats (wadden) are mainly exposed at low tide and
disappear at high tide. Together with the West Frisian
Islands, the Waddenzee forms the last extensive wild
part of Holland. The entire area has an extremely
rich ecosystem because of the large sources of
nourishment. It is a feeding and breeding ground
for many species of birds. Two species of seal, 30
species of fish, shrimps and crabs live in the
Cockles (Cardium edule), which
Waddenzee or come here to breed.
form the diet for many bird
species, are intensively harvested
using mechanical methods. The
catch is exported.
Sea Lavender
(Limonium vulgare),
along with sea purslane
and sea aster, grows in
the higher parts of the
salt marshes. Fields of
blue-violet sea lavender
flowers make a very
pretty sight.
E Oudheidkamer
Kogerstraat 1, Den Burg.
Tel 0222-313135. Open 1 Apr31 Oct:
11am5pm MonFri, 24pm Sat.
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Whitsun, 25, 26 &
31 Dec, public hols. &
Noorderhaaks, above sea level at high tide for some decades now
4 De Slufter
Road Map B2. * none. g @
Open all year, northern part closed
1 Mar1 Sep. n Emmalaan 66, Den
Burg (0222-314741).
5 Den Hoorn
Road Map B2. * 450. g @
n Emmalaan 66, Den Burg (0222-
314741). ( JulAug: Thu.
E Tromps Huys
Dorpsstraat 99, Oost-Vlieland.
Tel 0562-451600. Open school hols:
10am5pm TueFri, 25pm Sat, 24pm
Sun; outside school hols: 25pm Tue
Thu, 10am1pm Fri, 25pm Sat.
The village hall in Oost-Vlieland Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Pentecost. &
278 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
8 Terschelling
Road Map C1. * 4,900. g @
n Willem Barentszkade 19a, West-
Terschelling (0562-443000).
in the old centre recall the days Balg, Kobbeduinen and the salt metres in height and an
when many islanders made marshes) in particular make for impressive salt marsh are its
their living from whaling. wonderful walking areas, with characteristic features. The
If you want to see the real their varied flora (including many island also belongs to the
Ameland, you must visit Hollum. orchids) and bird life. No cars at seals and birds.
The Zuiderlaan and Oosterlaan all are allowed on the island.
are steeped in the atmosphere
of past times. At the southern w Rottumeroog
end of the village is the church, q Rottumerplaat Road Map D1. * none. 8 very
surrounded by an oval cemetery limited. n Waddenkust Noord-
Road Map D1. * none.
with tombstones where the n Waddenkust Noord-Groningen, Groningen, Uithuizen (0595-434051).
deeply pious inscriptions are Uithuizen (0595-434051).
overgrown with lichen. This most eastern of the West
Beyond Hollum lies the Nature has been left to her Frisian Islands is due to disappear
Reddingsmuseum Abraham own devices with the 900 ha into the mouth of the Ems soon.
Fock, a museum dedicated to (2,225 acre) uninhabited island Since 1991 it has been left in the
life-saving, where the pride of of Rottumerplaat. This protected hands of nature. Attempts over
Ameland, a lifeboat launched by nature reserve is jointly many years to prevent it from
horses, is kept operational. managed by the Ministry of drifting eastwards were
Agriculture, Waterways and unsuccessful. In 1998, the
E Reddingsmuseum Planning, and the Friends of northern dunes collapsed, after
Abraham Fock Rottumeroog and Rottumerplaat which the last traces of human
Oranjeweg 18, Hollum. Tel 0519 Society (SVRR). Outsiders are settlement were removed by the
542737. Open AprNov: 10am5pm rarely admitted to the island. state forestry commission. The
MonFri, 1:305pm Sat & Sun. & 7 This has had a good effect on island is now less than 300 ha
Rottumeroog as well as on (740 acres) in size and shrinks
Rottumerplaat, which has been with each storm. Walkers are
0 Schiermonnikoog expanding quickly. Dunes many prohibited in the area.
Road Map D1. * 900. g @
n Reeweg 5, Schiermonnikoog
(0519-531233).
GRONINGEN
The Netherlands northernmost province is distinguished
by its rich cultural history and unusual landscape, where
you often see terps or small areas of elevated land.
To the north and west it is bounded by the shallow
Waddenzee, and to the east by the Ems river estuary
and the border with Germany.
The terps originated centuries ago, when Bourtange, which is right on the border
the inhabitants of this region needed to with Germany. Conservation areas
protect themselves from high water levels. abound. Close to Lauwersoog, where you
The elevated land is sometimes crowned can catch a ferry to Schiermonnikoog,
by a solitary Romanesque church, visible one of the West Frisian Islands (see p279),
for miles across the fens. Elsewhere in the a vast nature reserve has been estab
province you will see straight roads and lished. Nearby Pieterburen has a
canals, often evidence of reclaimed land. seal sanctuary.
The region grew rich during the Middle Groningen, the provincial capital, is
Ages from agriculture and peat extraction, proud of its glorious past and boasts a
and the medieval port of Appingedam, wealth of worldclass museums, historic
nowadays a little town inland from the buildings and other attractions. A
port of Delfzijl, was once a member of the number of Dutch corporations have their
powerful Hanseatic League. headquarters in this thriving university
Groningen province is also noted for its city, and a further boost to the economy
windmills, castles and moated manor arrived in the 1960s after the discovery in
houses and, in the east, for its restored nearby Slochteren of some of the worlds
fortified towns, such as picturesque largest natural gas deposits.
Exploring Groningen
Some of the countrys most attractive and historically interesting
castles, or borgs, are in the Groningen region: the medieval
Fraeylemaborg in Slochteren, Menkemaborg in Uithuizen and
the charming Verhildersum in Leens. The natural area around the
Lauwersmeer is particularly suitable for rambling. Not far from here,
in Pieterburen, is a famous refuge for seals. Ter Apel, which is on Wensum, one of the prettiest villages
the provinces eastern boundary, is a magnificent in Groningen
medieval monastery. Groningen itself (see pp2849) e
nze
has much to offer, including the peaceful dde
Wa
Prinsenhof, with its beautiful gardens, and the
ultra-modern Groninger Museum (see
pp2889), which houses collections that LAUWERSOOG
PIETERBUREN Warffum
range from archaeology to oriental
Lau w
ee Leens
m
r
ZOUTKAMP
Winsum
Reitdiep
Bedum
Grijpskerk
rghka naal
rkenbo Zuidhorn Zuidwolde
Van Sta
The Lauwersmeer nature reserve, created through the
draining of the Lauwerszee
GRONINGEN
GROOTEGAST
Getting Around Haren
Groningen can be reached from the south Paterswoldse
LEEK Meer
along the A28 motorway; the A7 crosses
the province from Friesland in the west Marum
to Germany in the east. The best way to
see the town of Groningen is on foot.
From Groningen there are rail links to
Roodeschool in the north, Delfzijl in the
northeast and to Nieuweschans in the
east. Most of the countryside is accessible
by regional (interlokal) or local (buurt)
buses. The Groningen region is well suited
to cycling and rambling, especially the
area around the Lauwersmeer, the
mud-flat region (waddengebied) and
Westerwolde, in the south.
Sights at a Glance
1 Groningen pp2849 0 Fraeylemaborg
2 Grootegast q Winschoten
3 Leek w Veendam
4 Zoutkamp e Bourtange
5 Lauwersoog r Oude and Nieuwe Pekela
6 Pieterburen t Ter Apel
7 Uithuizen
8 Appingedam
9 Slochteren Recreation possibilities on the Paterswoldse Meer,
south of Groningen
For map symbols see back flap
GRONINGEN 283
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
UITHUIZEN
Spijk
Loppersum
Delfzijl
APPINGEDAM
Termunten Farmhouse in Beerta, east Groningen
al
na
ka
ms Dollard
Ee
Ten Boer
Nieuwolda
GRONINGEN Siddeburen
FRAEYLEMABORG Midwolda
SLOCHTEREN
Nieuweschans
Scheemda
Hoogezand-Sappemeer Heiligerlee
WINSCHOTEN
Zuidlaardermeer
Bellingwolde
VEENDAM OUDE PEKELA
Westerwolde
St
Onstwedde
ad
Vlagtwedde
sk
an
aa
l
Key Stadskanaal
BOURTANGE
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Scenic route Musselkanaal
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
International border TER APEL
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and pp41213
284 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
1 Street-by-Street: Groningen
The town of Groningen has for centuries been the cultural
and historical capital of the province. Its glory was at its
height in the 15th century, when the town was freed from
the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Utrecht and was able to
extend its influence into the present-day province of TURFSINGEL
T U R F S T R A AT
which was the precursor of the Rijksuniversiteit. Thus, in
addition to being a centre of trade and government, the
town also became an academic centre.
SIN
. Prinsenhof
T W
In the gardens of the
Prinsenhof, where in
ALB
1568 the first Bishop of
Groningen, and later the
UR
stadholder, resided, stands
GS
a magnificent sundial
TR.
from 1730. The garden
is laid out as it was in the
18th century.
MA
RT
INI
. Martinitoren
KE
The 97-m (318-ft) Martinitoren
(St Martin tower) dating from RK
HO
1496 is called The Old Grey by F
the locals because of the colour
of the Bentheim sandstone.
Stadhuis
The Stadhuis on
the Grote Markt is
a monumental Neo-
Classical building,
The Martinikerk (St Martins Church) dates back completed in 1810.
to the 13th century, though only parts of the
original basilica are preserved. The Romanesque
church was extensively remodelled in Gothic
style in the 1400s.
Goudkantoor
This 1635 Renaissance
building on the Waagplein
was known as the
Goudkantoor (gold
depository) in the
19th century, when it
functioned as a treasury.
It now houses an inn.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and pp41213
GRONINGEN 285
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map D1. * 177,000.
n Grote Markt 25 (050-
3139741). ( TueSat.
_ Flower fair: Good Friday;
Bevrijdingsfestival (Liberation
festival): 5 May; funfairs: May;
Groningen holiday: 28 Aug.
Transport
Stationsplein.
@ Stationsplein.
Key
SI Recommended route
NG
EL
AT
ST
RA
A
TR
AT
SS
N
JA
T
N
SI
KER
S
C
H
O
KH
O
L
S
OF
T
R
T
A
A
A
A
I
T
R
IN
T
S
T
N
R
E
A
K
M
P
O
P
T
A
G A
R R
O T
S
T E
E L
M E
O
A P Ome Loeks horse, a statue by Jan de
R
K
T Baat in front of the train station,
illustrates a famous local folksong, Ome
Loeks horse is dead. Pikeur Loeks
(Lucas) van Hemmen (18761955)
The Poelestraat is
wanted to shoo away his horse and so
lined with cafs
stabbed it with his pitchfork. The animal
and restaurants.
got an infection and later died.
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
. St Geertruidshofje
This inn on Peperstraat, founded in
1405 as a hostel for poor pilgrims, has
two courtyards. The first is bounded
by the convent church, refectory and
wardens chambers; guest rooms
surround the second.
286 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
Exploring Groningen
The city of Groningen has a number of interesting
buildings and museums, among them the Noordelijk
Scheepvaartmuseum (northern maritime museum)
which illustrates the history of navigation. The Groninger
Museum (see pp2889) possesses an art collection of
international stature. A visit to one of the gardens of
Groningen will provide peace in the middle of the The distinctive Gasunie building, known locally as
bustling university city. the monkey cliff
E Noordelijk
Scheepvaartmuseum
Brugstraat 2426. Tel 050-3122202.
Open 10am5pm TueSat, 15pm
Sun & hols. Closed public hols. &
This maritime museum,
arranged over two restored
medieval houses, deals with
the history of navigation in the
northern provinces from 1650
to the present. Exhibits are
arranged in chronological
order, from the Utrecht ships,
Hanseatic cogs, West Indies The magnificent Prinsenhof, formerly the stadholders residence
merchantmen, peat barges
and Baltic merchant ships to oasis in the midst of the busy several different greenhouses
Groningen coasters from the city. Its highlights include a dedicated to a wide array of
20th century. A number of herb garden and a rose garden. climatic zones. There is a tropical
historical workshops, such as a There is also a flowerbed that rainforest with a great variety of
carpenters shop and a smithy, is arranged into two coats of exotic flowers. A subtropical
are held in the attic of arms, one with the letter hothouse numbers orange trees
the museum. The W (for William Frederick, among its plants. The various
museum also has the stadholder of climatic areas continue with a
an excellent Friesland), the other desert section. Here, gigantic
programme of with a letter A (for cacti are showcased. Another
temporary Albertine Agnes, greenhouse featuring a mon-
exhibitions, Decorative element from the Williams wife). soon climate contains unusual
featuring all Provinciehuis of Groningen At the side of the carnivorous plants. In the
things marine. entrance is a fine tropical culture greenhouse,
sundial (see p284) which dates you can admire a traditional
Y Prinsenhof and back to 1730. The course of Indonesian sawah (ricefield).
Prinsenhoftuin the old city walls of Groningen The Chinese garden (Het
Martinikerkhof 23. Tel 050-3176555. is still clearly discernible in verborgen rijk van Ming, or The
Open 9amnoon daily. the Prinsenhoftuin. hidden Ming Empire) is well
The Prinsenhof originally worth a visit. It is a faithful recon-
housed the monastic order of E Hortus Haren struction of a real garden owned
the Broeders des Gemenen Kerklaan 34, Haren. Tel 050-5370053. by a 16th-century high-ranking
Levens. It later became the Open 9:30am5pm daily. Chinese official of the Ming
seat of the first Bishop of Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 - 0 Dynasty (13681644). It features
Groningen, Johann Knijff, who Immediately south of the original Chinese pagodas, which
had the entire complex city is the fashionable town have been painstakingly restored
converted into a magnificent of Haren, where an extensive by Chinese craftsmen into fine
bishops palace. Until late into park, Hortus Haren, is situated. pavilions and then beautifully
the 18th century, the building The park was set up in 1642 decorated with carvings of lions
served as the residence of the by Henricus Munting. Its 20 ha and dragons. Het verborgen rijk
stadholder. The Prinsenhoftuin (50 acres) include a large hot- van Ming also has a waterfall and
(Prinsenhof Gardens) is truly an house complex comprising a tea house where visitors can
enjoy Chinese refreshments.
Another interesting theme
garden is the Ogham Gardens,
a Celtic garden whose main
attractions is the Horoscope of
Trees, consisting of an earth-
and-stone circular wall, which
is a replica of the enclosures
the ancient Celts built to live
within. Inside the circle is a
labyrinth representing life; at its
centre is a small garden and the
Well of Wisdom.
In summer, a variety of exhib-
itions and events are held in the
grounds, attracting locals and
The fascinating Hortus Haren, with its innumerable attractions tourists alike.
288 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
Groninger Museum
Between the central station and the
inner city lies the Groninger Museum,
standing on an island in the 19th-
century Verbindingskanaal. Designed
by internationally renowned Italian
architect Alessandro Mendini and
opened in 1994, the museum showcases
archaeology and history, applied arts
(including a remarkable collection of
Chinese and Japanese porcelain), early . Spiral Staircase
The spiral staircase, which visitors have to
art and cutting-edge modern art. descend to see the exhibits, is the museums
main meeting point and a work of art in itself.
Curtains
The applied arts section,
which includes oriental
porcelain, is divided by
winding curtains.
KEY
1 The museum caf features is also a direct connection with 5 This wing of the museum
furniture by various designers the station and the town centre. was designed by Wolfgang Prix
and Helmut Swiczinsky.
and was set up as an addition 3 Temporary exhibitions
to the museum collection. 6 A large concrete staircase
4 The Mendini Pavilion is easily in the spectacular Mendini
2 A cycle and pedestrian distinguished by its apparent Pavilion leads to the upper
bridge connects the museum haphazardness and chaos, and is a pavilion, where some of the
with the station square. There good example of deconstructivism. collection of art is on display.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and pp41213
GRONINGEN 289
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Museumeiland 1.
Tel 050-3666555.
Open 10am5pm TueSun
(also Jul & Aug: 15pm Mon).
Closed Mon, 1 Jan, 5 May, 25 Dec.
& - Open 9:30am4:30pm
TueSun. Closed same as above.
Rembrandt
This ink drawing of Saskia in Bed by Rembrandt
can sometimes be seen in the Mendini Pavilion.
. De Ploeg
The Groningen art
collective De Ploeg has its
own pavilion. In addition
to works by the group, the
section also displays works
by other Expressionists
from northern Europe. The
picture Rotating Door of the
Post Office is by De Ploeg
painter HN Werkman.
Museum Guide
Groninger Museum was designed by
Alessandro Mendini (born 1931). He based the
design around the collections of the museum,
which consisted of archaeology, applied arts
and early and modern pictorial arts. The focus
Bridge in the Coop of the building is the 30-m (98-ft)
Himmelb(l)au Pavilion tower in the middle.
290 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
2 Grootegast
Road Map D1. * 11,500. @ 33,
38, 39, 98, 101, 133. n Nienoord 20,
Leek (0594-512100). ( Fri.
E Abel Tasmankabinet
Kompasstraat 1. Tel 0594-613576.
Open 1:304:30pm TueSat.
3 Leek
Road Map D2. * 18,000. @ 81, 85,
The harbour of the delightful fishing village of Zoutkamp
88, 98, 306, 316. n Nienoord 20
(0594-512100). ( Thu. In 1846, the then owner, 4 Zoutkamp
Ferdinand Folef Kniphausen, Road Map: D1. * 1,200. @ 63, 65,
In the small town of Leek nicknamed the mad squire, 69, 136, 163, 165. n Reitdiepskade 11
stands the castle of Nienoord, burned all the family portraits (0595-401957).
built in approximately 1524 by in a drunken fit. Later, the
Wigbold van Ewsum. During orangery and part of the upper The small fishing village of
the 19th century, things at floor were destroyed by fire. Zoutkamp changed its character
the castle seemed to be In 1950, the municipality dramatically after the damming
taking a turn for the worse. bought the castle. Eight of the Lauwerszee in 1969. By the
years later, the Nationaal waterside (Reitdiepskade) there
Rijtuigmuseum, featuring are still a number of fishermens
horse-drawn vehicles, was cottages retaining the erstwhile
established here. It contains charm of the village.
a unique collection of royal
coaches, gigs, mail coaches
and hackney carriages. 5 Lauwersoog
E Nationaal Rijtuigmuseum Road Map D1. * 350. @ 50, 63, 163.
n Reitdiepskade 11, Zoutkamp
Nienoord 1. Tel 0594-512260.
(0595-401957).
Open AprOct: 11am5pm,
Landgoed Nienoord TueSun. Closed Mon. & 7 At Lauwersoog, from where the
ferry leaves for Schiermonnikoog
(see p279), is the Lauwersmeer,
Abel Tasman (160359) a 2,000-ha (4,940-acre) nature
Abel Janszoon Tasman was born in Lutjegast in 1603 but lived in reserve. When the Lauwerszee
Amsterdam from an early age. In 1633, as a navigating officer for the was drained, the land was
Dutch East India Company (see pp523), he travelled to Asia. In 1642, he designated for four purposes:
sailed on the yacht De Heemskerck and then with agriculture, recreation, a
the cargo ship Zeehaen in search of the nature reserve and an army
legendary southern continent. Tasman charted training area.
some of the coast and later reached New
Zealands South Island. On 13 June 1643, he Environs
arrived in Batavia (now Jakarta), which he Lauwersoog is a good
called home until his death 16 years later. base from which to explore
From 1644 to 1648, he sat on the Batavian the tuff churches that, in
council of justice; during this time he also the Middle Ages, were built
joined trading missions to Sumatra in villages such as Doezum,
(1646) and Siam (1647). Tasman died on Bedum and Zuidwolde.
10 October 1659, having bequeathed They can be recognized
his money to the poor of Lutjegast. by their grey or green
porous stone.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and pp41213
GRONINGEN 291
6 Pieterburen
Road Map D1. * 500. @ 65, 67, 68.
n Waddencentrum, Hoofdstraat 83
(0595-528522).
8 Appingedam
Road Map E1. * 12,400. @ 40, 45,
78, 140, 178. n Oude Kerkstraat 1
(0596-620300). ( Sat.
w Veendam
Road Map E2. * 28,500. @ 71, 73.
n Museumplein 5b (0598-364224).
( Mon am, Thu pm.
FRIESLAND
Friesland, or Frysln as it is officially called, is a remarkable
province perhaps best known outside the Netherlands for
its distinctive Friesian cows. Parts of it are below sea level,
and its size has increased since historic times as a result
of land reclamation schemes on the former Zuiderzee.
Bartlehiem, the junction of the Elfsteden (11 towns) a favourite summer destination for day-trippers
Display showing the position of planets in the solar system, Planetarium Friesland
296 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
Exploring Friesland
Friesland is famous for its vast meadows and its distinctive
farmhouses of the kop-hals-romp and stelp types. It also
boasts a varied landscape. In the southwest are the popular
Friese meren (Frisian lakes), while the north is typified by
undulating dykes, terp villages and church steeples with
pitched roofs. Gaasterland in the south has rolling woodlands
and cliffs, whereas the Friese wouden (Frisian woods) in the The sea dyke at Wierum
provinces southeastern corner, with their forests, heathland
and drifting sands, are more reminiscent of Drenthe.
St. Annaparochie
Sights at a Glance
1 Leeuwarden
2 Dokkum
3 Franeker Sexbierum Menaldum
4 Harlingen
5 Bolsward
FRANEKER Dronrijp
6 Workum
7 Hindeloopen
HARLINGEN
8 Gaasterland
9 Sloten
0 Sneek
q Thialfstadion
Wieuwerd
w Oude Venen Wommels
e Beetsterzwaag
r Appelscha
Makkum
BOLSWARD
SNEEK
WORKUM
HINDELOOPEN ssen
e
Flu
Koudum Sloter
Meer
The Noorderhaven in Harlingen Balk SLOTEN
Stavoren
ND
RLA
Rijsterbos STE
GAA
Getting Around Oudemirdum Lemmer
Friesland is convenient and easy to get to.
It is crossed by the A7 (eastwest) and the
A32 (northsouth) motorways. Rail and
bus links are unproblematic. Most of the
larger villages and towns have a railway
station; those which dont can be reached
by bus. From Harlingen, Holwerd or
Lauwersoog, the islands are only a short
boat ride away. The province also has a
good network of minor roads, walking
routes and cycle tracks.
Lauwersoog
Anjum
Holwerd
Lauwers
Meer
Ferwerd
DOKKUM
Damwoude Kollum
Ee
er
Dokkum
Stiens
The terp of Hogbeintum, west of Dokkum, the
Veenwouden
Buitenpost highest in Friesland
LEEUWARDEN Bergumer-
Meer
Bergum 0 kilometres 10
Surhuisterveen
0 miles 5
a al
an
tK
ie
Earnewld
r
rg
EN
Ma
VEN
DE
es
OU
ns
Drachten
Pri
Grou
FRIESLAND
BEETSTERZWAAG
Akkrum
Donkerbroek
Gorredijk
Oosterwolde
Joure
APPELSCHA
Heerenveen
THIALFSTADION Oldeberkoop
Tjeukemeer Noordwolde
Wolvega Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
(Sneek)
aar
ekv
r Tr
Drylts
me
(Ijlst)
rku
Wo
Warkum
(Workum)
Hylpen
(Hindeloopen)
Franeker in a festive mood
Starum Sleat
(Stavoren) (Sloten)
Dokkum
Ee
er
um All winners
kk
Do
of the
Elfstedentocht
Bartlehiem are national
heroes, but
Evert van
Benthem even
more so. A Two-time winner Evert van Benthem
farmer from
Start Sint-Jansklooster, he managed to cross the finishing
Ljouwert line at the Bonkevaart in Leeuwarden in first place
(Leeuwarden) twice in a row (1985 and 1986). Van Benthems
double victory gave him a legendary status
throughout the Netherlands. The prize itself is
a laurel wreath, both for men and for women.
The names of the winners are engraved on the
Elfstedenrijder monument in Leeuwarden.
Key
Route of the Elfstedentocht
Road Willem-Alexander, alias WA van Buren, in the arms of his
mother, Queen Beatrix, after the 1985 race
300 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
1 Leeuwarden
Road Map D1. * 89,000. @
n Achmeatoren, Sophialaan 4 (0900-
2024060). ( Fri & Sat.
6 Workum
Road Map C2. * 4,000. @
n Merk 4 (0515-541045).
7 Hindeloopen
Road Map C2. * 850. @
n Nieuwstad 26 (0514-851223).
Schuitje Sailing
Schuitje sailing, or sktsjesilen, is a sport which has gained
great popularity in the lakes of Friesland, sktje being the
name of the typical local spritsail barges. Originally
used for the carriage of goods and as
ferries, these boats are raced by
representatives of various towns
and villages. The result is a series
of spectacular events held in July
and August in various places, each
time on a different lake and from a
different base. Every day certain
prizes are won, and on the last
day, in Sneek, the champion of
the year is announced and
fted. The races are held over
the course of 11 racing days and
three rest days.
304 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
r Appelscha
Road Map D2. * 4,500. @
n Boerestreek 23 (0516-431760).
DRENTHE
Drenthe was once a free republic of farmers, and its inhab-
itants have always lived close to the land. Although the region
has no cities and few towns, the rural poverty that once
prevailed is no more, and tourists, especially those
interested in archaeology and nature, are arriving in
increasing numbers.
Drenthe, whose landscape is a product of from the Neolithic era; information about
the last Ice Age, has managed to keep time this period, with archaeological finds, is
at bay by holding on to its character, displayed in the museum at Borger. Other
reputed by the rest of the country to have museums in the region feature glass
been born of peat, gin and suspicion. blowing, artworks, natural history and
Moraines and megaliths dot the paper-cutting. Orvelte boasts a fine
countryside. The extensive woodland, open-air museum with Saxon farmhouses
heathland and peat bogs have a primeval and traditional crafts, while Dwingeloo
atmosphere, although this does not mean looks to the future at the Planetron
that there has been no human intervention. observatory and planetarium.
The top level of peat has been largely Visitors come to Drenthe for peace and
removed, while the traditional esdorps, the quiet after the rigours of city life. But this
local hamlets, have modern outskirts. does not mean there are no facilities
However, peat moors and forests, ancient local centres such as Assen, Emmen and
burial mounds, canals, flocks of sheep and Hoogeveen are urbanized areas that grew
green fields are the principal features here. out of villages, and there is a variety of
There are more than 50 megaliths in hotels, guesthouses and restaurants
Drenthe, the remains of tombs dating throughout the region.
Exploring Drenthe
The finest natural areas of Drenthe are the Sights at a Glance
Hondsrug ridge, between Zuidlaren and Emmen, 2 Assen
and the Ellertsveld region between Assen and 3 Norg
4 Eelde-Paterswolde
Emmen. The areas around Diever, Dwingeloo and
5 Zuidlaren
Norg are a resplendent green (or purple, when the
6 Hondsrug Roden
heather is in bloom). The eastern part of the region,
7 Rolde
with its endless excavated peatlands and the 8 Borger
wilderness of the Amsterdamsche Veld, is relatively 9 Orvelte
unknown. The provincial capital of Assen is also a 0 Westerbork
regional centre, as is Emmen, where Noorder q Dwingeloo
Dierenpark Zoo, in the middle of the town, has w Diever NORG
become one of the most-visited attractions in e Coevorden
r Emmen
Holland. The megaliths are concentrated around
Emmen, along the Hondsrug and at Havelte. Tour
1 The Megalith Route
pp31011
Smilde
a rt
va
ofd
Ho
se
ent
Dr
DIEVER
Vledder
The 14th-century Siepelkerk at Dwingeloo
ijker Aa
nw
ee
DWINGELOO
St
Havelte
Ruinen
Hoogeveen
Meppel
The broad and silent heath
Zuidwolde
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Major railway
Minor railway
Regional border
International border
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
Paterswoldse-
meer
EELDE-
PATERSWOLDE Zuidlaarder-
meer
ZUIDLAREN
Vries The landscape reserve of the Drentse Aa river, an exceptionally
peaceful hiking area near Hondsrug
Hu
nz
e
Anloo
T
H
E
ASSEN Gieten
M
EG
ROLDE Gasselte
A
HO
LI
Nieuw-Buinen
TH
ND
SR
BORGER
Tweede-
UG
O ra n j e
an
k
Exloo
U
aa
Beilen
l
Schoonoord Nieuw-Weerdinge
WESTERBORK
Odoorn
ORVELTE
Emmer-
Compascuum
Zweeloo
EMMEN
Barger-
Oosterhesselen Compascuum
Klazienaveen
Dalen Nieuw-
Amsterdam
Amsterdamsche Veld
Schoonebeek
COEVORDEN
Getting Around
Every year in July, Drenthe is the venue of the Rijwielvierdaagse, a four-day
cycle tour that attracts more than 25,000 participants. There are 500 km
(310 miles) of marked cycle routes in the region. The A28 motorway crosses
the province through Meppel, Hoogeveen and Assen, and the railway
follows the same route. Other motorways include the N371 from Meppel
to Assen along the Drentse Hoofdvaart, the N37 Hoogeveen-Emmen and
the N34 Emmen-Zuidlaren. Emmen is also the last stop on the railway to
Zwolle via Coevorden. Bus service is limited, particularly in the evenings
and on weekends.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp399400 and p413
310 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
Key
Tour route
Other road
Railway
Megalith
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
9 Megalith at Loon
One of the best-preserved megaliths in 7 De Zeven Marken,
Holland is at Loon, northeast of Assen. Before the open-air museum of
1870 it was in even better condition, when Schoonoord, tells you about such
the original top stone was still in place. things as the legend of the giants
Ellert and Brammert.
Typical beakers
after which the Tips for Drivers
Beaker People are
Length: 95 km (60 miles)
named. Pottery
Stopping-off places: All villages
shards of these
on the route offer refreshments
containers are the
and meals. To see most megaliths
most common finds
Beaker Pitcher you will need to leave your car
in the megaliths.
and walk, as only a few are by the
roadside. They are almost
Annen 2 Anloo is one
invariably well sign-posted and
of the most make excellent picnic spots.
picturesque
Anloo Collared flask
Drenthe villages.
Buinen
5 The Exloo Necklace
g
Odoorn
ELLERTSVELD
Valthe
Open-air Flint was the main
Schoonoord museum material used by the
hunter-gatherers of
prehistoric Drenthe
t Haantje to make such items as
knives, axes, scrapers
SLEENERZAND and arrowheads.
Megaliths (hunebedden)
There are no longer any complete
megaliths. Until 1734, when trading in
boulders was forbidden, thousands of megaliths
were hacked up to be used as building material.
There are definite traces of 88 megaliths, 82 of
them in Drenthe. The 54 surviving megaliths are 6 De Papeloze Kerk (the Popeless Church)
all restorations. The most common finds from This megalith is so called because of the Calvinist
excavations are pottery shards. Scrapers, axes, sermons that were held here in the early 16th
arrowheads, and amber and copper jewellery century against the popish (Catholic) faith. In 1959,
all extremely valuable trading goods in Drenthe the megalith was restored to its original state, to
in 3000 BC are much rarer finds. the extent of covering half of the tomb with sand.
312 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
3 Norg
Road Map D2. * 3,500. @ n Brink
1 (0592-613128). ( Wed.
Environs
The area around Norg is
steeped in prehistory.
Three megalithic tombs are
to be found there, while in the
Noorderveld are Bronze Age
tumuli (the Negen Bergen).
Norgerholt is the name
given to the oak woods
where the local people used
to assemble during the
Children Bathing in a Stream (c.1935) by Von Dlmen-Krumpelmann Middle Ages.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp399400 and p413
DRENTHE 313
4 Eelde-
Paterswolde
Road Map D2. * 10,500. @ 52.
n B Boermalaan 4 (0503092136).
( Wed.
E Bebinghehoes
Zuiderhoofdstraat 6. Tel 0591549242.
Open 1 Apr1 May: WedSat; May,
Colourfully decorated Klompenmuseum Gebroeders Wietzes Jun & Sep: TueSat; Jul & Aug: daily.
314 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
7 Rolde 0 Westerbork
Road Map E2. * 6,200. @ Road Map E2. * 8,000. @ 22.
n Onder de Molen, Grote Brink 22 n BG van Wezelplein 10 (0593-
(0592-241502). 331381).
Planetron
Drift 11b. Tel 0521-593535. Open daily
during school hols. Closed 1 Jan, Mon
Farmers at work in the Orvelte open-air museum outside school hols. & 0 -
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp399400 and p413
DRENTHE 315
w Diever
Road Map D2. * 3,700. @ 20.
n Bosweg 2a (0521-591748).
e Coevorden
Road Map E3. * 34,000. @ v
n Kerkstraat 2 (0524-525150).
( Mon.
OVERIJSSEL
Overijssel, a province in the east of Holland, has many areas of
natural beauty and lovely old towns. In a sense it is a province
of two halves, divided by the heathland and woods of the
Sallandse Heuvelrug near Nijverdal, which separate the
eastern district of Twente from the rest of the province.
Exploring Overijssel
The impressive historical monuments Oldemarkt
of Deventer and Kampen recall their Ossenzijl
prosperous pasts as Hanseatic cities. DE Steenwijk
WE
However, Overijssel has plenty to E R RIB
BE N
offer those who are interested in
more than splendid old buildings. GIETHOORN
Those who enjoy peace and natural Blokzijl
surroundings will find some of the
finest spots in Holland. The peaceful Belterwijde
O ve
rijss
els
Heino
IJssel
Wijhe
Raalte
Olst
Diepenveen
DEVENTER
The quiet port of Blokzijl near Vollenhove
Overijssel at a Glance
1 Zwolle
2 Kampen
3 Vollenhove
4 De Weerribben
5 Giethoorn pp3223
6 Staphorst
7 Ommen
8 Deventer
9 Nijverdal
0 Delden
q Enschede
w Ootmarsum
Dedemsvaart Gramsbergen
Hardenberg
ht
c
Ve
OMMEN
OVERIJSSEL
OOTMARSUM
Vriezenveen
Hellendoorn Tubbergen
Denekamp
Wierden
NIJVERDAL Almelo
DELDEN Losser
Hengelo
Goor
Markelo
ENSCHEDE
Haaksbergen
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
1 Zwolle
Road Map D3. * 107,000. v
n Grote Kerkplein 15 (0900-
1122375). ( Fri (cattle market), Sat.
The waterfront of the magnificent, well-preserved Hanseatic city of Kampen on the river IJssel
. Tjaskermolen
This windmill, which
turns an Archimedes
screw, is located in
Giethoorn-Noord.
Another one can be
seen in the Olde Maat
AD
Uus museum.
NP
NE
BIN
Key
Walking route
Boat route
Waterway
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p400 and pp41314
OVERIJSSEL 323
. Punts
Punts were formerly used to
carry peat along the canals of
Giethoorn. They are now used
for tourist trips; you can also
occasionally catch glimpses of
them in the villages old
ditches and channels.
Reeds
The countryside around Giethoorn
abounds with lakes and ponds. The
reeds which grow along their banks
are used to make cane furniture
and to thatch roofs.
Tourist Boats
There are many places in Giethoorn where
you can hire quiet, electrically powered boats.
324 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
8 Deventer
Road Map D3. * 86,000.
n Brink 56 (0570-710120).
( Fri am & Sat.
7 Ommen
Road Map D3. * 17,000.
n Kruisstraat 6 (0900-1122375).
( Tue am.
FLEVOLAND
Flevoland is Hollands youngest province, constructed
by the Dutch entirely out of water, sandbanks and mud
flats, thanks to massive reclamation schemes which
created dykes and polders (reclaimed land, sometimes
below sea level) from the turbulent Zuiderzee
following an Act of Parliament in 1918.
This act provided funds for damming occasional village here and there.
the northeastern part of the Zuiderzee However, as the built-up areas around
and reclaiming the land behind the Amsterdam and Utrecht became
dykes. When the Afsluitdijk was completed increasingly congested, new towns
in 1932, drainage works on the have grown up. The conurbation around
Noordostpolder began and, with the Almere, with its highly impressive
seawater pumped out, the islands of modern architecture, is among these.
Urk and Schokland and the town of Other towns include Lelystad, with its
Emmeloord became by 1942 a part of several modern museums, and Dronten,
the mainland. Further schemes to the where the Walibi World amusement
south and southwest were completed park proves an irresistible magnet for
in 1957 and 1968 respectively, and since younger visitors. Lelystad, whose name
1986 these three new polders have honours Cornelius Lely, the genius
officially constituted the Netherlands behind the massive land creation project
newest province, named Flevoland after (see p330), is the provincial capital. There
Flevo Lacus, the original name given to are many other attractions for visitors
the Zuiderzee by the Roman historian to this compact and attractive region,
Pliny nearly 2,000 years ago. including a number of fascinating
Initially, the idea had been to use museums featuring subjects as varied
the polders as farmland only, with the as archaeology and World War II.
Exploring Flevoland
The Noordoostpolder, which is the northernmost part of
Flevoland, is distinguished by its polder landscape and its
rich farmland, fruit orchards and bulb fields. There are also
many young forests, which are good for walking in. Apart
from the main town of Emmeloord, there are a number of
small new villages, as well as the old fishing village of Urk.
Oostelijk (eastern) and Zuidelijk (southern) Flevoland are
relatively sparsely populated and have a lot of greenery.
Between Almere, the largest town of Flevoland, characterized The picturesque harbour of the fishing
by modern architecture, and Lelystad, the provincial capital, village of Urk
there stretches a fine nature reserve known as the
Oostvaardersplassen, or Oostvaarder lakes. The coastal
lakes have inviting sand beaches and marinas.
Sights at a Glance
1 Emmeloord 8 Bataviawerf
Ma
2 Urk 9 Oostvaardersplassen
rke
rw
3 Nagele 0 Knardijk
aar
4 Schokland
ddij
q Zeewolde
k
5 Swifterbant w Almere
6 Dronten
7 Lelystad
Markermeer
LELYSTAD
BATAVIAWERF
EN
Natuurpark
Lelystad
SS
A
L
SP
R
DE
AR
VA
ST
OO Knarbos
Almere-Buiten
KNARDIJK
ALMERE Zuidelijk-
Flevoland
Almere-Haven
Boats moored at Almere harbour
ZEEWOLDE
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Minor railway
Regional border
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10
Rutten
Bant
Creil
Espel
Marknesse
EMMELOORD
Noordoostpolder
URK
Ketelmeer
Ketelbos
SWIFTERBANT
FLEVOLAND
DRONTEN
Oostelijk-
Flevoland
Biddinghuizen
Getting Around
Flevoland has an efficient road network.
All the municipalities in the region are easily
accessible by car or bus. Long-distance
coaches cover both the Lelystad-Emmeloord
and Lelystad-Dronten routes. Almere and
Lelystad can also be reached by train, and a
ferry links Urk and Enkhuizen during July and
August. The flat, expansive landscape of
Flevoland also makes exploration by bicycle ideal.
Numerous excellent cycling and hiking routes
have been laid out throughout the province. Flat farmland of Flevoland
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p400 and p414
330 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p400 and p414
FLEVOLAND 331
5 Swifterbant Environs
E Nieuw Land Erfgoedcentrum
Oostvaardersdijk 113. Tel 0320-
Road Map C3. * 6,500. @
Around Dronten are many
225900. Open 10am5pm TueFri,
n De Rede 8082, Dronten (0321- pretty woods and recreation 11:30am5pm Sat & Sun.
313802). ( Tue pm. areas that offer opportunities Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
for walking and cycling. &8-07
This young village is known
primarily to archaeologists Y Natuurpark Lelystad
for the flint tools and earthen- 7 Lelystad Vlotgrasweg 11. Tel 0320-286111.
Open sunrisesunset daily.
ware of the Swifterbant
Road Map C3. * 67,000. @ 8 by appt. 0 =
culture that were unearthed n Bataviaplein 60 (0320-292900).
here. The Swifterbant culture ( Sat (Gordiaan), Tue (Lelycentre). Y Nationaal Luchtvaart
inhabited the region in the Themapark Aviodrome
4th millennium BC. Lelystad, a provincial capital, Pelikaanweg 50, Luchthaven Lelystad.
In spring, flower enthusiasts has a modern centre with a Tel 0320-289842. Open 10am5pm
can enjoy the riot of vivid number of outstanding buildings. TueSun (Mon in Jul, Aug & school
colour in the nearby bulbfields. The cylindrical Nieuw Land hols). Closed 25 Dec. & 0 = 7
Erfgoedcentrum has models
Environs and audiovisual materials
The Swifterbos forest nearby is illustrating the history of the 8 Bataviawerf
an excellent spot for recreation. fight against the sea, of the Road Map C3. Oostvaardersdijk 0109,
The Ketelbos is a resting place land reclamation and of the Lelystad. Tel 0320-261409. Open 10am
for migrant bird species. culture of the Zuiderzee. 5pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
On the Airship Plaza is the 8 - = bataviawerf.nl
Zepallon museum of balloon
6 Dronten and airship flight. East of the From 1985 to 1995, a replica of
town is Natuurpark Lelystad, the Dutch East India Company
Road Map D3. * 22,500. @
n De Rede 8082 (0321-313802). where there are animals ship Batavia (see p262) was
( Wed. such as bison and Przewalski built at the Bataviawerf on the
horses. As well as cycling Oostvaardersdiep. The shipyards
Dronten is well-endowed and pedestrian paths, the current project is a replica of
with greenery and recreation park boasts a shipwreck the 17th-century De Zeven
facilities. The Meerpaal Complex and a reconstructed prehistoric Provincin. Visit the sailmaking
here combines a theatre, village. The Nationaal Luchtvaart and woodcarving workshops.
cinema and events venue. Themapark Aviodrome, at The entry ticket is also valid for
Outside the town hall stands Lelystad airport, has historic NISA, the Netherlands Institute
the Airgunnersmonument, aircraft, a cinema and a for Submarine Archaeology,
honouring airmen who lost reconstruction of Schiphol with its fascinating display
their lives in World War II. Station from 1928. on shipwrecks.
The Batavia, which went down off the Australian coast in 1629 with 341 people on board
332 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
Observation huts on the Oostvaardersplassen lakes, situated amid abundant bird populations
q Zeewolde
Road Map C3. * 19,400. @
n Raadhuisstraat 1 (036-5221405).
( Fri.
Landscape Art
In the countryside around Flevoland
you will come across unusual and
distinctive works of landscape art. These
are associated with various features of
the landscape. East of Almere-Haven, for
instance, is the Groene Kathedraal (Green
Cathedral) (top photo), designed by
Marinus Boezem and consisting of 178
Lombardy poplars planted to re-create
the outline and pillars of Reims Cathedral.
The Observatorium Robert Morris (bottom
photo) consists of two round earth
embankments, with three notches in
them from which the sunrise can be
observed when the seasons change.
On the Ketelmeerdijk, you will find Cyriel
Lixenbergs Wachters op de Dijk (Watchmen
on the Dyke), consisting of a circle, a
triangle and a square. Piet Slegers Aardzee
(Earth Sea), situated between Zeewolde and
Lelystad, consists of a series of elongated
artificial ridges resembling waves.
NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS 335
GELDERLAND
Gelderland is the Netherlands largest province. Its name
derives from the 11th-century county of Gelre, which
was linked with the town of Geldern, just over the
border in Germany. The town was the fiefdom of Gerard
de Rossige, whose grandson Gerard II of Wassenberg
pronounced himself Count of Gelre in 1104.
Exploring Gelderland
Gelderland is made up of three distinct regions. In the north
is the Veluwe, an extensive natural area of woodland, heaths
and large tracts of drifting sand, where those looking for
peaceful natural surroundings can find exactly that. To the
east is the Achterhoek. This region, too, is rich in natural
beauty but has a completely different character: it consists
of small fields with wooden fences, old farms, stately homes
and castles. In the southwest of the province, between the
Rhine, the Maas and the Waal rivers, is the river-valley region The Dolphinarium in Harderwijk
of the Betuwe. This area is distinguished by its many small
dykes and river banks, which offer ample opportunities for ELBURG
cycling and walking.
er
me
u we
Vel
NUNSPEET
NATIONAAL PARK DE
HOGE VELUWE
Ede
Bennekom
Renkum
Lek WAGENINGEN
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CULEMBORG Maurik er R
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Kesteren Zetten
Elst
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Leeuwen Beuningen
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
Getting Around
Gelderland has an excellent road network. A
number of major motorways pass through the
province, including the A2 and the A50. Public
transport is also good. Many towns have rail
links, and the bus will even take you deep into
the Nationaal Park De Hoge Veluwe. The
numerous bicycle tracks and footpaths allow
the province to be conveniently explored either
on foot or by bicycle. Cycling routes of varying
lengths are well marked, and there are several
walking routes across the province, including
HATTEM The majestic red deer king of the very scenic Maarten van Rossum route.
Wezep the Veluwe
l
IJsse
Heerde
Epe
Vaassen
Gorssel
APELDOORN Laren
Voorst
LOCHEM Neede
ZUTPHEN
Eerbeek Borculo
VORDEN Eibergen
BRONKHORST Ruurlo
GELDERLAND
Groenlo
Dieren Hengelo
Rheden Zelhem
DOESBURG Lievelde
Velp
Duiven Didam
Varsseveld
MONTFERLAND
Ne
Zevenaar Aalten
de
Beek Terborg
rR
ij n Zeddam
GELDERSE
POORT s-HEERENBERG Dinxperlo
Millingen
aan den Rijn Key
Motorway
Major road
KEY
Vintage Cars
This 1925 Bentley, nicknamed
Minerva, was owned by Prince
Hendrik, husband of Queen
Wilhelmina. It is one of the royal
familys many old cars and carriages
on display in the stables.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp400401 and p414
GELDERLAND 339
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map D3. Koninklijk Park 1
(Amersfoortseweg), Apeldoorn.
Tel 055-5772400.
paleishetloo.nl
Open 10am5pm TueSun &
hols. Closed 1 Jan. &
gardens only. 8 0 7 ^
Transport
Apeldoorn, then bus to
. Dining Hall (1686)
The marble-clad walls are hung with tapestries palace and gardens.
depicting scenes from Ovids poems.
Main entrance
3 Hattem
Road Map D3. * 12,000. @
( Wed pm.
6 Harderwijk
Road Map C3. * 38,500. @
n Academiestraat 5 (085-2733575).
( Sat am.
0 Krller-Mller Museum
This museum owes its existence above all to one
person: Helene Krller-Mller (18691939). In 1908,
with the support of her industrialist husband Anton
Krller, Helene Krller-Mller started to collect
modern art. In 1935, she donated her entire
collection to the state, and a special museum was
built to house it. As well as its large collection of
modern art, which includes 278 works by Vincent
van Gogh, the museum is renowned for its unique
sculpture garden, the Beeldentuin.
. Beeldentuin
Jardin dEmail by Jean Dubuffet is
one of the most distinctive
sculptures in the 25-ha (62-acre)
sculpture garden. The garden
provides a natural backdrop for
works by sculptors such as
Auguste Rodin, Henry
Moore, Barbara Hepworth
and Richard Serra.
Shop
Main entrance
Jachthuis St Hubertus
This hunting lodge, built from
1914 to 1920 by the architect HP
Berlage, was commissioned by
the Krller-Mller family.
Key to Floorplan
Museonder, the worlds first
Exhibition rooms
underground museum
344 NORTHERN AND EASTERN NETHERLANDS
w Arnhem
Road Map D3. * 136,500. @
n Stationsplein 13 (0481-366250).
( Fri, Sat (Kerkplein).
VE
4 Sabelspoort R
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Musis
.
KOREN- TS
LAA
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5 Provinciehuis SP
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Bibliotheek
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0 yards 200 RA
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NB
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Burgers Zoo
John Frost
Brug
p Doesburg
Road Map D4. * 11,000. @ 27/29
Arnhem & 26/28 Dieren.
n Gasthuisstraat 13 (0313-479088).
( Wed am, Sat.
A charming old farmhouse near Winterswijk
Doesburg is a snug Hanseatic
u Winterswijk surrounding it are among the town on the IJssel. Granted its
Road Map E4. * 28,000. v
prettiest corners of Achterhoek. town charter in 1237, this small
n Mevr, Kuipers Rietbergplein 1 The little town, which was towns well-preserved old centre
(0543-512302). ( Wed am, Sat. granted its charter in 1379, has had listed status since 1974.
winterswijk.nl retains its historical centre, with Doesburg contains at least 150
buildings from the 15th and 16th national monuments, including
The 20th century was not kind to centuries. Huis Bergh is one of a Late Gothic town hall, one of
the town of Winterswijk and the Hollands finest castles and the earliest in Holland. The
grand railway station bears houses the art collection of the Grote or Martinuskerk, a Late
witness to better times. There is textile magnate JH van Heek. Gothic basilica with a 97-m
now only a single railway track, (320-ft) tower, is another of the
although it is evident that in the E Kasteel Huis Bergh towns noteworthy buildings,
past the rail traffic was much n Hof Van Bergh 8 (0314-661281). along with the local museum
heavier. The Museum Freriks is Open MayOct: 12:304:30pm Tue De Roode Toren.
interesting, with its exhibits Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. &
relating to the textile industry that E De Roode Toren
flourished here before World War Roggestraat 913. Tel 0313-474265.
II. The museum also has prints o Montferland Open 10amnoon, 1:304:30pm Tue
by Pieter Mondriaan Sr, whose Road Map D4. n Hofstraat 1,
Fri, 1:304:30pm Sat & Sun (NovMar:
famous painter son Piet spent his s-Heerenberg (0316-291391). pm only).
childhood in Winterswijk.
On the outskirts of the town Montferland, one of the few
lies a pleasant sculpture park, De hilly areas in the Netherlands, a Nijmegen
Beeldtuin. Set out in the shady is exceptionally attractive. Road Map D4. * 152,000. v
mature orchards of an old farm, Apart from s-Heerenberg (see n Keizer Karelplein 32 (0481-366250).
there are also meadows and above), there is a number of ( Mon, Sat.
wooded areas. The works of art, by other attractions, such as
contemporary, mainly Dutch Zeddam, Beek and nature Nijmegen is one of the oldest
sculptors, are dotted all over the reserves where you can walk, towns in Holland. Archaeological
grounds, and represent just about cycle, swim or even dive. The remains show that the Batavians
every genre, from Pop Art through natural spring in Beek, het were settled here even before
traditional to highly abstract.
The park also hosts changing
temporary exhibitions of 3D art.
E Museum Freriks
Groenloseweg 86. Tel 0543-533533.
Open 10am5pm TueFri,
25pm Sat & Sun. &
E De Beeldtuin
Steggemansweg 1. Tel 0543-521034.
Open phone ahead.
i s-Heerenberg
Road Map D4. * 18,000.
@ 24. n Hofstraat 1 (0316 -291391).
( Thu.
E Bevrijdingsmuseum 1944
Wylerbaan 4. Tel 024-3974404. Open
10am5pm MonSat, noon5pm Sun
& hols. Closed 25 Dec, 1 Jan. & 7
f Tiel
Beavers introduced to the Gelderse Poort now thrive
Road Map C4. * 36,500. @
n Plein 63 (0344-633030). ( Mon
s Gelderse Poort } Gelderse Poort Visitors Centre
pm, Sat.
Gerard Noodtstraat 121. Tel 024-3297
Road Map D4. n Arnhem
070. Open AprOct: 9am5pm daily. Tiel, situated on the Waal, is an
(0481-366250).
ancient town that flourished
At the point where the Rhine during the Middle Ages
enters the Waal, the IJssel and d Groesbeek because of its strategic location
the Neder-Rijn (Lower Rhine) is on the trading routes to and
Road Map D4. * 19,000. @
the Gelderse Poort. This is a n Dorpsplein 1a (024-3977118).
from Cologne. One of the best-
protected area where the flora preserved monuments from this
and fauna have been allowed Its hilly woodland surroundings time is the Ambtmanshuis,
to grow freely. At the heart of make Groesbeek an attractive dating back to 1525. The town
it is the Millingerwaard, where place for cyclists and hikers. The also has the oldest elm tree in
the currents are particularly route of the four-day annual the country. The local history
strong and where, at high hike (Vierdaagse) follows the museum, De Groote Sociteit
water, the surrounding area Zevenheuvelenweg from on the Plein, is worth a visit. Tiel
regularly floods. The river Groesbeek to Berg and Dal, past is the centre of fruit farming in
banks, woodlands and marshes the Canadian war cemetery. the Betuwe region. On the
provide ideal breeding grounds Groesbeek was subjected to second Saturday in September
for endangered species of heavy bombardment at the of each year, it also becomes
birds such as the corncrake end of World War II. The the centre of the Fruitcorso (see
and the penduline tit. Bevrijdingsmuseum (liberation p38), as a procession of floats
the rivers brought prosperity to the region; dykes were built to Deventer
protect the land from flooding.
Apeldoorn
Arnhem
Culemborg
Rotterdam
Tiel Lower
Lek Rhin
e
Gorinchem W
R h in
e
Dordrecht aa Nijmegen
l
Ma
ss
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp400401 and p414
GELDERLAND 349
Southern Netherlands
at a Glance
South of Hollands great rivers lie the provinces of North
Brabant and Limburg, where industry and countryside
coexist in harmony, though the coal fields are long gone.
As with the rest of the Netherlands, eating and drinking
well are held in high regard here. Visitors to the Southern
Netherlands will also find cities with historical centres, such
as Den Bosch, Breda, Thorn and Maastricht; the beautiful
countryside of Kempen, Peel and the hills of Zuid Limburg;
thriving modern towns; and peaceful rural villages.
s-Hertogenbosch
Oosterhout
Breda
Boxtel
Tilburg
Roosendaal
Bergen
NORTH BRABANT
op Zoom (See pp35869)
Zundert
The Kasteeltuinen,
the gardens of the
17th-century Castle
Arcen (see p374), in the
town of the same
name on the River
Maas, have a lovely
rose garden, as well as
subtropical gardens, a
forest of Scots pines
and a golf course.
Oss
Gennep
Uden
Venray
Nuenen
Helmond The Bonnefantenmuseum
(see pp3789) in Maastricht is housed in a
striking building designed by the Italian
Eindhoven architect Aldo Rossi. The collections of
old works of art and contemporary
Venlo international art are impressive.
Valkenswaard
Tegelen
Weert LIMBURG
(See pp37085)
The Van
Abbemuseum Roermond
Maasbracht
Sittard
Geleen
Heerlen
Maastricht
The route through the Heuvelland
(see pp38485) passes among hills and dales
Eijsden and by meandering rivers, their banks dotted
with old castles. Outstanding examples of
these are the 17th-century Kasteel Eijsden
and Kasteel Schaloen in Valkenburg.
354 SOUTHERN NETHERLANDS
Decorative
carving
Candles
abound
around
images of
St Mary.
St Anna-te-Drien
the trinity of
Anna, her daughter The Basiliek van de HH
Mary and the Agatha en Barbara
infant Jesus is a (Basilica of SS Agatha and
familiar image in Barbara) in Oudenbosch is
religious art. This a copy of St Peter and
statue from St John of the Laterans in
Mechelen Rome. The picture on the
incorporates the right shows the faade.
towns coat The interior of the church
of arms. is richly decorated,
though appearances
Statue of St Mary are deceptive: what
in the Onder de appears to be marble is
Linden Chapel in actually painted wood.
Thorn (Limburg).
The 15th-century
tower of the
Michielskerk is all
that remains of the
North Brabant Sint-
Michielsgestel. The
medieval church
was built in honour
of the archangel
Michael. The village,
also named after the
saint, grew up
around the church.
Neglect and the
elements have
meant that the
church building itself
has been levelled to
the ground, but the
solid tower has
withstood the ages.
Carnival
Every year in February, in the week before Ash Wednesday,
carnival breaks out in the towns south of the great rivers.
While life goes on as usual in the north of the country,
people in the south celebrate this old tradition, which is
also honoured in other parts of the Catholic world. A
festive mood abounds everywhere, with the best-known
celebrations being held in Den Bosch, Bergen op Zoom
and Maastricht. For days on end, there is drinking, singing
and dancing all over Brabant and Limburg. Carnavalsstokken (carnival
rods) are brightly decorated.
They are carried by the Prince of
Music plays an the Carnival when he passes
important role at through the streets on his float.
carnival time. Every year,
the associations choose
the official carnival
anthem that will be
played over and over
again. The Zaate
Herremienekes of
Maastricht (pictured left)
are among the better-
known bands. Dozens
of its members
march through the
streets blaring out
enthusiastically; what
their music may lack in
elegance is made up
for by their verve. On
Shrove Tuesday they
compete in the
Herremienekes
competition.
Carnival Floats
At carnival time, long processions with extravagantly
decorated floats wind their way through the main
streets of towns and villages. Months of preparation
often go into creating the floats, and secrecy prevails
during their preparation. The decoration of the
float is usually on an upbeat and amusing theme,
but current events are sometimes illustrated in
imaginative ways. When leading
politicians are featured, they
are more often than
not caricatured
mercilessly, and
Refreshments both indoors and outdoors at social ills are
carnival time exposed, often
using costumed
participants in
tableaux vivants.
A festive float
NORTH
BRABANT
The Netherlands second-largest province is
distinguished primarily by its natural beauty. In the
south and southeast are the relatively high elevations of
Kempen and the Peel; in the northwest, the watery Biesbosch. Here, arms
of the Waal and Maas rivers converge through a wilderness of sandbanks.
North Brabant has been inhabited by and founded towns such as Breda and
humans since the earliest times. The Celts s-Hertogenbosch. The Duchy flourished
settled here in the 7th century BC and until the 16th century, when the 80 Years
stayed for many centuries. They were War left the south of Brabant under
defeated by Julius Caesar (see pp467), Spanish rule and the north under the
who describes them as the Belgae in his rule of the Netherlands.
writings. The Rhine became the northern Although North Brabant has its fair share
frontier of the Roman Empire and Roman of commerce and industry, and Eindhoven
remains have been found in the area. is a major manufacturing centre, tourism
When the Romans left, the Franks took has become increasingly important. The
charge of Toxandria, as the region was regions colourful history is evident from
known in those days. Under Charlemagne the medieval buildings and bastions in
(see p48), this region grew in importance many of the towns, and the castles dotted
as new towns expanded at points along around the countryside, with a range of
trade routes, and in the 12th century fine exhibits in churches and museums.
became part of the Duchy of Brabant. The For younger visitors the highlight is the
Dukes of Brabant, among them Godfried fairytale theme park De Efteling at
III and Henry I, expanded their territory Kaatsheuvel, northeast of Breda.
Zevenbergen Kaatsheuvel
Oosterhout
Dinteloord Dongen
OUDENBOSCH Rijen
Steenbergen BREDA
Etten-Leur TILBURG
Baarle-Nassau
Hoogerheide
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
Drifting sands and conifers in the Loonse and the International border
Drunense dunes, east of Kaatsheuvel
For map symbols see back flap
NORTH BRABANT 361
Getting Around
North Brabant has an excellent transport
infrastructure. All the larger towns, as well as
many smaller towns and villages, can be
reached easily by train. There is an extensive
network of long-distance buses, which will
take you to even the smallest village. The
province can be explored by car with great
ease thanks to its dense motorway network,
which includes the A2 and the A58, as well as
its many good major roads. Areas of natural
beauty, such as the Peel and Kempen, are
ideal countryside for cycling. The 14th-century Kasteel Heeswijk, rebuilt numerous times
during its lifetime
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10
rgse Maas
Be
Megen
Grave
Oss
Cuijck
HEUSDEN Heesch
Rosmalen
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s-HERTOGENBOSCH Mill
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St-Michielsgestel Boxmeer
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HELMOND
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Bergeyk
Budel
1 Street-by-Street:
s-Hertogenbosch
In 1185, Henry I of Brabant founded the town Stone Plaque with Swan
of s-Hertogenbosch. The strategically Such plaques are a common
sight in the city centre.
positioned town usually called Den Bosch
grew rapidly. From the 16th century,
however, its prosperity waned, when the
States General ignored Brabant and .
R
chose to favour other regions. ST
Its prestige rose again after EN
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1815, when it became the K
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capital of North Brabant. OR
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Today, it is a vibrant, R.
DO
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lively town. BR
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KO
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De Moriaan
The medieval building known
as De Moriaan, with its stepped
gable, is the towns oldest
building. It now houses the 0 metres 100
towns tourist office. 0 yards 100
. Binnen-Dieze
The Binnen-Dieze, the citys inner . Sint Jan
canal, runs partly underground. It is The flying buttresses of the Sint Jan
possible to make a spectacular round Church (see pp3645) are decorated
trip along the restored town walls. with a variety of figures.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and pp41415
S-HERTOGENBOSCH 363
Statue of Jeroen
VISITORS CHECKLIST
(Hieronymus) Bosch The painter
Jeroen Bosch (c.1450/1460
Practical Information
1516), is the citys most
Map C4. * 127,000. n Markt 77
renowned figure.
(0900-1122334). ( 8:30am
Medieval Well 1:30pm Wed & Sat. _ Indoor
Restored to its former glory, Brabant (equestrian competition):
this well is located in the Markt. Feb/Mar; jazz festival: Whitsun.
Transport
.
MARK TSTR
s-Hertogenbosch CS,
s-Hertogenbosh Oost.
@ Stationsplein.
HINTHAME
RSTR AAT
MA
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T
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D HU
TA
V Stadhuis
S E
T R The Neo-Classical town hall, built in 1670,
HE W
stands in the Markt. The figures of horsemen
ER E
R
HT S beneath the tympanum spring to action
AC S
T twice every hour.
R
A
A
T
T
A
A
R
T
S
R
E
T
A
W
Zwanenbroedershuis
The Zwanen brothers (14th
century) did much charity
work but are best known
as gourmands. Their house
is now a museum.
Noordbrabants Museum
The North Brabant museum
Key
is housed in the monumental
former government building. Recommended route
364 SOUTHERN NETHERLANDS
Sint Jan
There was a church of Sint Jan (St John) in Den
Bosch as early as the beginning of the 13th
century, although nothing of the original
Romanesque church exists today. The present-
day Gothic church was built from the late 14th
to the 16th century. The majestic cathedral
survived the Iconoclastic Riots of 1566 (see p56)
and a devastating fire in 1584. The damaged
building is undergoing continuous restoration.
. Organ
The great organ (1617)
was fully refurbished in
1985 and restored to its
original state.
Statue of St Mary
The 13th-century miracle-
working figure of the Zoete
Lieve Vrouw of Den Bosch
(Our Good Lady of Den
Bosch) was for centuries
kept in Brussels, but was
returned to Sint Jan in 1853.
KEY
Baldachin
VISITORS CHECKLIST
The revolving baldachin in
the middle of the cathedral is
Practical Information
ascribed to Alart Duhameel.
Torenstraat 16.
The all-seeing eye looks
Tel 073-6130314.
down from the vaults.
sint-jan.nl
Open 8am5pm daily but
restrictions apply during
church services.
Antoniuskapel
The Chapel of St Anthony
contains a spectacular
Passion altar made by a
studio in Antwerp. The
Church of Sint Jan
managed to buy the
retable in 1901 for
one guilder.
. Stained-Glass Windows
The Church of Sint Jan was restored
in Neo-Gothic style during the 19th
century. A great deal was changed,
including the lively and colourful
stained-glass windows.
. Sanctuary
The sanctuary was built from
1380 to 1425 by Willem van
Kessel. The vaults are painted
with a variety of religious
scenes, among them the
coronation of St Mary.
366 SOUTHERN NETHERLANDS
Exploring s-Hertogenbosch
Along with a large number of historical buildings and interesting
museums, the town of s-Hertogenbosch offers a wide choice
of fine restaurants. The excellent Noordbrabants Museum has
an excellent exhibition of art from the Southern Netherlands
from 1500 to the present. The most striking building in Four putti (1731) by Walter Pompe,
s-Hertogenbosch is the majestic Gothic church of Sint Jan. Noordbrabants Museum
The historic district of Uilenburg offers ample opportunities
to while away the time with a drink or a bite to eat in a caf. E Noordbrabants Museum
Verwersstraat 41. Tel 073-6877877.
The splendid church of Sint Jan most of his life here. In the towns Open 11am5pm TueSun.
(see pp3645) is Den Boschs historical district of Uilenburg, Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 -
crowning glory. In the Markt beyond the Markt, are plenty of The excellent Noordbrabants
stand historical buildings such as good cafs and restaurants. The Museum displays art by
De Moriaan (parts of which date Binnen-Dieze, the citys inner renowned artists such as Pieter
back to the 12th century) and canal, surfaces at this point; Brueghel and Teniers, as well as
the town hall, dating from 1670. houses here stand directly in its modern artists such as Van Gogh,
A statue of the great painter water. Right by Sint Jan is the Mondriaan and Sluyters. The
Hieronymus Bosch (c.1453 majestic Zwanenbroedershuis museum also features exhibits
1516) stands between the (see p363), as well as the Museum on the history of the province of
two grand buildings. Born in Slager, which showcases North Brabant, from prehistoric
s-Hertogenbosch, Bosch spent paintings by the Slager family. times to the present.
2 Heusden here, save for the fact that fair), held each year at the end of
Road Map C4. * 43,000. @ n
motor vehicles are allowed July, is the biggest fair in Holland.
Pelsestraat 17 (0416-662100). ( Thu. into the fortress. The entire town puts all its energy
into the event, and people come
After a thorough refurbishment from far and near to attend.
that started in 1968 and lasted 3 Tilburg
for decades, the picturesque E Nederlands Textielmuseum
Road Map C5. * 213,000. @ Goirkestraat 96. Tel 013-5367475.
ancient fortified town of n Nieuwlandstraat 34 (0900-
Heusden on the River Maas has Open 10am5pm TueFri, noon5pm
2020815). ( TueSat. Sat & Sun. Closed most public hols.
been restored to its former
& 7 8 by appointment.
glory. That Heusden fell victim Tilburg, the sixth-largest town in
-0=
to the redevelopment craze Holland, once had a flourishing
of the 1960s matters little. textile industry. The interesting
Walls, houses, moats, the Nederlands Textielmuseum, Environs
Veerpoort (ferry gate) and which is housed in a former Kaatsheuvel is home to De
the Waterpoort have all been textile mill, illustrates the Efteling, the famous theme
restored in the old style. As history of the countrys textile park where all kinds of fairytale
advertising is banned in industry and explains how personalities come to life
Heusden, it is easy to imagine textiles were produced. (see p427).
that time has stood still The kermis van Tilburg (Tilburg
4 Breda
Road Map B5. * 182,100. @
n Willemstraat 1719 (0900-
5222444). ( Tue & Fri am, Sat.
are a clutch of striking modern was laid out for the team in
buildings, including the 1913. Guided tours allow visitors
Stadhuis, an imposing structure, to enter the players changing
surrounded by a large empty rooms and to walk down the
space, the Stadhuis Plein, and tunnel onto the pitch.
the more appealing train station Eindhovens most important
with its slender tower and sight, however, is the Van
glassy frontage. Abbemuseum, which is
The Philips Museum, in the
city centre, holds a fascinating
collection of electrical objects
dating back to the earliest
days of the company. On
display are dozens of the very
Woman in Green (1909) by Picasso, Van first light bulbs dating from
Abbemuseum (Eindhoven) the 19th century, beautiful
bakelite radios and hulking
8 Eindhoven cabinets from the birth of
Road Map C5. * 224,800. @
broadcasting. Visitors can
n Stationsplein 17 (040-2979115). learn about the history of light-
( Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun. bulb making, from hand-made
to mass-produced, and how
The old market town of the light bulb transformed
Eindhoven was merged with Eindhoven from a small town
the villages of Strijp, Woensel, into an industrial giant.
Tongelre, Stratum and Gestel A rather more surprising find
in the 19th century. The in the centre of this industrial
municipality of Eindhoven grew city is the Eindhoven Museum. Eindhoven Museum, one of the towns
enormously in the last century This open-air museum in the main attractions
when Philips, the electronics middle of the Genneper Park
company, sited its factory there. contains reconstructions of an devoted to modern art. The
Philipss best-known building, Iron Age village, a Viking original building was designed
the distinctive Witte Dame settlement and a medieval in 1936 by AJ Kropholler and
(White Lady) was built in 1922 town. Actors in costume people has been described as a
by architect Dirk Rozenberg; the scene, and are on hand to brick castle. In the 1990s,
it has now been sold and answer questions. Theres also a architect Abel Cahen was
converted into a design college, restaurant where visitors can eat commissioned to expand the
library and centre for artists. meals based on ancient recipes, museum. Cleverly integrating
The former Philips area in Strijp like grain stew and lentil pt. the existing building into a
is also being developed into a Looming over the railway large new wing, he quadrupled
residential area with shops, station is the space-age Philips the exhibition space and added
restaurants and theatres. Stadion, home of the PSV a restaurant and multimedia
The city centre was heavily Eindhoven football team. centre. Queen Beatrix opened
bombed in World War II and as The stadium, although ultra- the museum in January 2003.
a result very few old buildings modern these days, still stands The collection contains works
have survived. In their place on the spot where the first pitch by Chagall, Lissitzky and Beuys,
and is particularly known for
Picassos Woman in Green (1909).
E Philips Museum
Emmasingel 31. Tel 040-2359030.
Open 11am5pm TueSun.
E Eindhoven Museum
Boutenslaan 161b. Tel 040-2522281.
Open AprOct: 11am5pm TueSun.
E Philips Stadion
Frederiklaan 10a. Tel 040-2505505.
8 booking essential.
E Van Abbemuseum
Bilderdijklaan 10. Tel 040-2381000.
Open 11am5pm TueSun. & 7
Philips Stadion, home to the football team PSV Eindhoven - vanabbemuseum.nl
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and pp41415
NORTH BRABANT 369
9 Heeze
Road Map C5. * 15,700. @
n Schoolstraat 2 (040-2260644).
( Thu am.
+ Kasteel Heeze
Kapelstraat 25. Tel 040-2261431.
Open MaySep. & 8 MaySep:
2pm Wed, 2 & 3pm Sun (Jul & Aug: The vast Strabrechtse Heide at Heeze and Geldrop
also 2pm Wed).
E Vincentre w Deurne
Berg 29. Tel 040-2839615.
Road Map D5. * 32,000. @
0 Nuenen Open 10am5pm TueSun (Mon in
n Markt 14 (0493-323655). ( Fri pm.
summer only). & some public hols.
Road Map C5. * 22,700. @ n
Berg 29 (040-2839615). ( Mon pm. The relaxing town of Deurne
is an artistic centre. The house
Nuenen, northeast of Eindhoven, q Helmond (1922) of the extravagant
is the village where Van Gogh Road Map C5. * 90,100 @
doctor and painter Henrik
lived from 1883 to 1885. The n Watermolenwal 11 (0492-522220). Wiedersma, who used to make
Vincentre in Van Gogh Village ( Wed am, Sat am. house calls on his motorcycle,
deals comprehensively with his is now a museum of
time in Nuenen. The most outstanding feature expressionist works by the
of Helmond is the castle doctor and his avant-garde
dating from 1402, today the friends, including Ossip Zadkine,
Gemeentemuseum (local who often stayed with him.
history museum). The museum Poets such as Roland Holst,
has many historical artifacts and Nijhoff and Bloem were also
a fine collection of modern art, regular visitors to the house.
including works by Breitner and
Charley Toorop. E Museum De Wieger
Oude Liesselseweg 29. Tel 0493-322930.
E Gemeentemuseum Open noon5pm WedSun. Closed
Kasteelplein 1. Tel 0492-845980. Mon, Tue & most public hols. & -
The magnificent 17th-century Open 10am5pm TueFri, noon5pm
Kasteel Heeze Sat & Sun. & 7 8 -
e Gemert
Van Gogh in Brabant Road Map C5. * 27,300 (community
of Gemert-Bakel). @ n Ridderplein
Vincent van Gogh was born in 1853 49 (0492-366606). ( Mon pm.
in Zundert, south of Breda. There, in the
Cultureel Centrum, you can learn about Gemert is a town of historical
his childhood. In 1883, he moved to importance; its nickname was
Nuenen, where his father was rector. once Heerlijkheid Gemert
He stayed there until 1885, when he (glorious Gemert). Until 1794
moved on to Antwerp. The Nuenen it was ruled by the Knights of
period was very prolific for Van Gogh. the Teutonic Order: their castle
Rural life in Brabant inspired him, and he still stands and is now used
painted farms, labourers and weavers in
as a monastery.
the blue and brown tones that are so
The Boerenbondmuseum
characteristic of his Nuenen work.
A famous painting dating from this (agricultural museum) is in a
period is The Potato Eaters (1885). farmhouse dating from the
beginning of the 20th century;
Statue of Van Gogh in Nuenen the displays portray what rural
life was like at that time.
SOUTHERN NETHERLANDS 371
LIMBURG
Limburg is the Netherlands southernmost province, squeezed
by the course of history into its present unusual shape its
boundaries defined by Belgium to the south and to the
west and by Germany to the east. Yet its outline is not
the only remarkable thing about this delightful
multilingual province.
From a geological point of view, Limburg is Beaker Folk (see p46). The Romans were
much older than the rest of Holland, sitting here for around 400 years and Maastricht,
on coal deposits that are around 270 which they founded, has much evidence
million years old. In the mining museum of their impressive buildings. Heerlen was
at Kerkrade, east of Maastricht, you can see also an important Roman crossroads and
how coal used to be mined in this region. the bathhouse museum here makes an
The caves that can be seen in many places excellent and informative visit. In the
in South Limburg are also mines, albeit for Middle Ages, Limburg was split up and
the local limestone laid down between 60 fought over at various times by the
and 70 million years ago. The best-known German Empire, Gelder, Lige, Brabant
cave systems, parts of which date from and the Spanish. It acquired its present
the Roman era, are at Valkenburg and at borders in the 19th century. Nowadays
St Pietersberg near Maastricht. it has plenty to offer visitors, from historic
The Maas river valley has been attractive towns with fine architecture, shops and
to settlers since the last Ice Age. There is nightlife to countryside dotted with
evidence of early nomads, followed by the half-timbered houses, farms, water mills
remains of successive sedentary societies in the rivers, and countless castles and
such as the Bandkeramikers and the country houses.
Meijel
Nationaal
Park de
Grote Peel
Nederweert
Getting Around
Stramproy
Limburg is easily reached by rail and by road,
which are also the best ways to explore it. The
THORN
motorways and railways invariably follow the
same routes, that is to say: NijmegenVenlo Maasbracht
RoermondGeleenMaastricht, Weert
l
aa
0 kilometres
ak
10
triangle MaastrichtGeleenHeerlen. For cyclists
an
0 miles 10
Jul
Echt
Julianakanaal and the Zuid-Willemsvaart. The
south of Zuid Limburg in particular is simply Susteren
ideal for cycling (including racing) and rambling.
The tourist railway or environmental line from
Schin near Geul to Kerkrade via Wijlre, Eys and
s
SITTARD
aa
VALKENBURG
MAASTRICHT
Wijlre
H E GULPEN
UV
ELL
EIJSDEN AND
Sights at a Glance
1 Mook
2 Venray
3 Arcen
Gennep
4 Venlo
5 Weert
M
aa 6 Roermond
s
7 De Meinweg
Nieuw-Bergen 8 Maastricht pp37681
9 Thorn
0 Sittard
Well q Hoensbroek
w Heerlen
e Valkenburg
VENRAY
r Gulpen
t Elsloo
y Eijsden
ARCEN
u Vaals
Horst
Tour
Sevenum
i Heuvelland pp3845
Blerick
VENLO Field chapel in Heuvelland
Maasbree
Tegelen
Panningen
s
aa
M
Reuver
BURG
Swalmen Key
Motorway
ROERMOND Major road
Minor road
DE MEINWEG Scenic route
Major railway
Posterholt
Minor railway
Regional border
International border
Brunssum
HOENSBROEK
Landgraaf
HEERLEN
Kerkrade
Simpelveld
VAALS
Kasteel Schaloen at Valkenburg (13th century), rebuilt in the 17th century
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and p415
374 SOUTHERN NETHERLANDS
1 Mook
Road Map D4. * 825. @ 83.
n Witteweg 10, Plasmolen
(024-6961762).
2 Venray
Road Map D5. * 43,000. @ 27, 29,
30, 39. n Passage 4, Venray (0478-
510505). ( Mon pm. The magnificent 16th-century Venlo town hall in the Markt
During World War II, Noord course. You can also take the 4 Venlo
Limburg was the scene of heavy waters at the Thermaalbad Road Map D5. * 100,000. @
fighting. An English and a Arcen spa; its mineral-rich water n Klasstraat 17, Bookstore Koops
German (at Ysselsteyn) military is extracted from 900 m (2,955 ft) (077-3543800). ( Fri pm, Sat.
cemetery lie near the town. underground. Other local delights
Nearby Overloon is home to the include special Arcen beer, The combined city of Venlo/
Oorlogs-en Verzetsmuseum asparagus (with an asparagus Blerick began as a Roman
(War and Resistance Museum). market on Ascension Day), and settlement. In the Middle Ages
In 1944, Venray was largely the drink distilled by the Branderij it grew rich on trade. The
destroyed. The 15th-century De IJsvogel, housed in the 17th- 15th-century St Martinuskerk, a
basilica of St Petrus Banden, century Wijmarsche water mill. Gothic hall-type church, and Ald
with its magnificent interior, Outside Arcen is the Nationaal Weishoes, a Latin school built in
was given a new 80-m (262-ft) Park Landgoed de Hamert. the Gelderland Renaissance style
tower in restoration works. The dating from 1611, are among
Geijsteren estate on the Maas, Y Kasteeltuinen the few historical buildings to
where old Maas terraces are Lingsforterweg 26. Tel 077-4736010. have survived World War II. The
visible in the terrain, is an Open Aprlate Oct: 10am6pm town hall was designed between
outstanding rambling area. daily. Closed rest of the year. & 1597 and 1600 by Willem van
-= Bommel. The local Museum
Van Bommel-Van Dam features
3 Arcen modern art; the Limburgs
Road Map D5. * 9,000. @ 83.
Museum, archaeological finds.
n Klasstraat 17, Bookstore Koops
E Museum Van Bommel-
(077-3543800).
Van Dam
The main attraction of Arcen, Deken van Oppensingel 6. Tel 077-
picturesquely located on the 3513457. Open 11am5pm TueSun.
Maas, is the finely restored Closed Mon, 1 Jan, Carnival, 25 Dec.
17th-century Arcen castle with its E Limburgs Museum
Kasteeltuinen (castle gardens). Keulsepoort 5. Tel 077-3522112.
They incorporate a rose garden, Open 11am5pm TueSun.
subtropical gardens, Eastern Exquisite gardens of the 17th-century Closed 1 Jan, Carnival, 25 Dec.
gardens, a pine forest and a golf Arcen castle limburgsmuseum.nl
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and p415
LIMBURG 375
5 Weert
Road Map C5. * 49,000.
n Markt 11 (0495-534211). ( Sat.
Munsterkerk in Roermond
The 1,600-ha (3,955-acre) De Meinweg national park
376 SOUTHERN NETHERLANDS
8 Street-by-Street: Maastricht
Maastricht emerged in Roman times at a point along the River
Maas which could be crossed on foot (Mosae Traiectum), on
the Roman road that led from Colonia Agrippina (Cologne) to
Bononia (Boulogne). The founder of Christian Maastricht was
St Serviatus, bishop of Tongeren, who died in AD 384 in
Maastricht and was buried in the cemetery then located
outside the town walls. The magnificent basilica of St Servaas
Sculpture of Pieke
was built over his tomb. In addition to the basilica, another This sculpture in
fine church is the Romanesque Onze-Lieve-Vrouwebasiliek. Stokstraat is of Pieke and
his dog, from a book by
Ber Hollewijn.
T
RK
MA
SPI
HT
LST
AC
GR
TE
RAA
O
GR
T
HE
The Generaalshuis
LM
AT
Key
Recommended route VRIJTHOF
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
In den Ouden
Vogelstruys
One of the many
street cafs
flanking the
. Cemetery Vrijthof, this lively,
Now one of the citys main squares, the cemetery popular spot
was located outside the town walls when the serves a small
construction of St Servaas began. selection of meals.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and p415
MAASTRICHT 377
St Servaasbrug
This bridge is a solid yet elegant structure of seven
semicircular arches dating from 1280. Ships can
reach the Wyck side through a modern section.
KL
AT
EI
TA
TE S
N
GRO
E
ST
T
RAA
AA
RU GST
M B
T
MA
LEL
AS
A AT
IEST
BO
R
M SMEDEN ST
W O L F S T R A AT
UL
RAA
EV
AR
T
AT
RA
D
T
LS
MINCKELERST
IE
AT
PL
T
RAA
R A AT
KST
STO
N
PLA
KST
RAA
T
. Onze-Lieve-
Vrouwebasiliek
In one of the
chapels of this The Wall Lizard
Romanesque This animal can
cruciform basilica be seen in parts
is the votive of Maastricht, the
statue of Our Lady only Dutch town
Sterre der Zee. it occurs in.
378 SOUTHERN NETHERLANDS
Bonnefantenmuseum
The Bonnefantenmuseum is one of Maastrichts
most prominent landmarks, situated on the
right bank of the Maas in a distinctive building
designed by the Italian architect Aldo Rossi.
The museums exhibits include old masters,
painting and sculpture from the medieval . Cupola by Aldo Rossi
The tower houses a restaurant
period to 1650, and a celebrated international and an exhibition hall.
collection of modern art.
La Natura lArte
del Numero
This installation, designed by
Mario Merz, consists of tables
covered with glass, branches,
stones, vegetables and
numbers fashioned out of
fluorescent tubes.
KEY
Bonnefantopia
VISITORS CHECKLIST
The Rotterdam
group of artists
Practical Information
Atelier van Lieshout
Avenue Cramique 250.
created this large
Tel 043-3290190.
installation in 2002.
bonnefanten.nl
It features stylized
Open 11am5pm TueSun &
polyester bodies
public hol Mon. Closed 1 Jan,
hanging, squatting
Carnival, 25 Dec. & for temp
and lying down
exhibits. = 0 -
throughout
the structure. Transport
@ 1, 3, 50, 53, 54, 57.
View on a City
from a River
by Jan Brueghel the
Elder (15681625).
Entrance
Museum Guide
The Bonnefantenmuseum
was designed by Aldo Rossi. It has
a permanent collection of early
and contemporary art; in addition,
a range of temporary exhibitions
are organized. The highlight of the
museum is its magnificent collection
of medieval wood carvings.
. Staircase St Stephen
The monumental staircase runs Giovanni del Biondo (135699)
through the middle of the museum painted this work, thought to be
and leads into the different wings part of a triptych, as the panel has
and floors of the museum. signs of being cut with a saw.
380 SOUTHERN NETHERLANDS
Exploring Maastricht
Maastricht is considered to be one of the oldest towns in
Holland. It was the seat of the countrys first bishopric and
an impressive fortress. It has some outstanding historical
monuments, including the Romanesque Onze-Lieve-
Vrouwebasiliek (Basilica of Our Lady); the Romanesque
St Servaas Basilica, with a very old crypt and a carved Gothic
portal (early 13th century); a scattering of Gothic churches;
a Baroque church formerly belonging to the Augustine order
(1661); and a Walloon church from 1733. A great deal remains
of the fortifications, including Roman foundations, part of
the medieval wall, a 17th-century bastion, and 18th- and
19th-century reinforcement works. The medieval Helpoort gate, the oldest city
gate in the country
E Natuurhistorisch the Romans settled in 50 BC
Museum and where the district of P Helpoort
De Bosquetplein 7. Tel 043-3505490. Stokstraat, with its medieval St Bernardusstraat 24b. Tel 043-
Open 11am5pm TueFri, 15pm Sat and Golden Age buildings, now 3212586. Open Easter DayOct, 12:30
& Sun. Closed some public hols. & lies. The pavement of Op de 4:30pm daily. & voluntary donation.
This attractive natural history Thermen, a small and peaceful The Helpoort gate, dating from
museum showcases the natural square in this district where the the early 13th century, also
history of the south of Limburg original Roman fort once was, forms part of the early medieval
through the ages. Highlights has been
of the museum include the marked with
remains of the enormous the outlines of
mosasaur and giant tortoises the old Roman
found in the limestone strata baths. The first
of St Pietersberg. medieval wall
around
P Roman Foundations Maastricht
of the Tower dates from
OL Vrouweplein. Tel 043-3251851. around 1229.
Open timings vary, call to check. Of these, the
In the courtyard of the Onze- Onze-Lieve-
Lieve-Vrouwebasiliek you can Vrouwewal
see the foundations of a Roman which has
tower which was once part of cannons Mosasaurus hofmanni in the natural history museum, known
the Roman castellum. The standing in locally as the terrible Maas lizard
castellum stood on the banks of front of it and
the River Maas, just south of the the Jekertoren tower can town fortifications. It stood at
St Servaasbrug bridge, where still be seen. the southern end of the town
and is the oldest surviving town
gate in Holland, and the only
one still standing in Maastricht.
Other structures from this
period can be seen across the
River Maas in Wyck: the
Waterpoortje gate, the Stenen
Wal (wall) along the river, and
the Maaspunttoren. The second
medieval fortifications, made
necessary by the rapid growth
of the city, were built around
1350. Of these, the Pater
Vinktoren near the Helpoort
gate, and the romantic
embankment wall and the
semicircular towers known
as De Vijf Koppen and Haet
ende Nijt continue to
The impressive Pater Vink tower survive to this day.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and p415
MAASTRICHT 381
E Museum Spaans
Gouvernement
Vrijthof 18. Tel 043-3211327.
Open 10am6pm TueSun.
Closed public hols. &
This museum, housed in a
16th-century chapterhouse,
features period rooms from the
17th and 18th centuries, and
Dutch paintings from that era.
P Centre Cramique
Avenue Cramique 50. Tel 043-350
5600. Open call ahead or check
website. Closed Mon & public hols.
& = centreceramique.nl
This information centre has a
library, archive, cafs and the
European Journalism Centre.
q Hoensbroek
Road Map D6. * 25,500.
n Bongerd 19, Heerlen (0900-
5559798). ( Fri am.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p401 and p415
LIMBURG 383
e Valkenburg
Road map D6. * 5,500. @ 36,
47, 63. n Th. Dorrenplein 5 (0900-
5559798). ( Mon am, Tue am.
u Vaals
Road Map D6. * 9,600. @ 50.
n Landal Maastrichterlaan 73a
(0900-5559798). ( Tue am.
al
as
na
the prettiest parts of Holland.
Ma
aka
Meerssen
ian
Jul
Rothem
Maastricht Cadier
2 The Basilica of the Holy Sacrament
in Meerssen, built in the late 14th century en keer
of limestone in Maasland Gothic style, is
one of the most elegant churches in all of
Holland. The chancel features a lavishly
decorated tabernacle.
Al
be
rtk
an
aa
l
Sint-geertruid
J
Eijsden
as
Ma
Key
Tour route
Other road
Railway
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 2
4 The American War Cemetery at
Margraten contains the graves of 8,300
American soldiers who died in World
War II, marked by plain white crosses.
Valkenburg
Houthem
Schin op
geul
Sibbe
5 In Vijlen is
Hollands tallest
Gulpen church, its steeple
Margraten visible from afar.
J
J
Mechelen
Vijlen
Mheer
J
Epen
J
J
J
WHERE TO STAY
The Netherlands offers a variety of hotels, hostels or B&Bs. Campers, too, will
accommodation to suit every travellers be spoiled for choice here, with numerous
tastes and needs, ranging from inexpensive campsites and caravan parks, often situated
backpacker hostels to pricey chteau in stunning locations. For those who intend
living. Visitors can choose to stay in one to stay in a particular area over a longer
of the luxury chain hotels here, which period of time, camping is an especially
vary from bland to spectacular, but there economical option. Visitors who need more
is also good accommodation to be found spacious or convenient accommodation
in historical castles, convents, prisons, can book one of the 350-odd bungalow
mansions and in one case, a harbour parks in the country, or rent an apartment
crane that have been converted into in one of the many coastal towns.
Gay Hotels
The days of Amsterdam being
The bar of the Hotel Van der Werff (see p398) on Schiermonnikoog the gay capital of Europe may
be gone, according to many
Payment theme; for example, a cycling locals, but the city still has a
Major credit cards are accepted or rambling package may lot to offer to gay and lesbian
at almost every hotel. If you include cycle hire, or a wellness travellers. A number of hotels
provide your credit card details package may include a couples cater exclusively to gay guests,
at the time of booking, it is massage at the hotel spa. Such of which the Amistad, with its
usually used as a guarantee and packages can be an economical fresh interior and smart rooms,
your card will not be actually choice. Packages can be booked and Quentin Golden Bear
charged until checkout. through the hotel booking Hotel, with comfortable rooms
However, advance payment websites mentioned in the (although some with shared
may be required in some cases, directory. Attractive deals can facilities), are great choices.
for example when booking at also be found through group Then there is a choice of
a highly discounted rate or deal websites like Groupon.com hotels that are regarded as
special package, in which case and LivingSocial.com, although gay-friendly by the International
your credit card will be charged you need to be flexible, as the Gay & Lesbian Travel Association
immediately. Most hotels will timeframes for booking and (Iglta.org), including the hip
charge a no-show fee, up to travelling are usually limited. Lloyd and the posh Grand. No
or even extending the full room hotel in Amsterdam would turn
rate, if you do not show up away a same-sex couple, but
without prior cancellation. Travellers with another particularly welcoming
As always, watch out for any Disabilities lodging, that is popular with
hidden charges, especially Many large hotels are fully women, is the Quentin.
when using the express accessible for wheelchairs. At gay tourist information
checkout service that many Smaller hotels may be less centres, such as Gaytic on
hotels offer. accessible, particularly those Spuistraat, visitors can pick
in historic buildings where up a free gay tourist kit and
Discounts
Many hotels and chains offer
early bird discounts for rooms
booked well in advance. Hotels
that cater mainly to business
travellers during the week, will
often offer discounts to leisure
travellers over the weekend
and conversely, hotels that are
usually full with tourists at the
weekends may offer reductions
on weekdays.
Packages
Many hotels offer special
packages of one or two nights,
with breakfast and dinner
included. These packages are
often based on a particular InterContinental Amstel (see p397) in Amsterdam (right), with its picturesque location
W H E R E TO S TAY 391
Recommended Hotels
The hotels listed on pages
396401 vary significantly in
both class and cost, and are
considered the best choice in
terms of price, charm or location.
To help you find accommodation
that suits your personal taste,
we have divided the entries into
six categories: Charming, Hotels
with Character, Historic, Family- Grand Hotel de Kromme Raake (see p399) in Eenrum, with a traditional in-built bed
friendly, Design and Luxury.
Some hotels are better than cube houses or a hotel that also gain a memorable experience.
others and a few stand out for consists of individually decorated These highly recommended
a particular reason, such as a rooms spread out over several hotels are marked as DK Choice.
romantic atmosphere, a fantastic private homes, to a deluxe suite The DK Choice hotels are extra
spa or a stunning location. For in a converted Ilyushin airliner special. These hotels may have
each region we have handpicked or a room with a dazzling view above average standards, or a
one such exceptional lodging, in a dockside crane. Here you breathtaking location, or they
ranging from an inexpensive will not only be guaranteed a may simply have a charm that
hostel in a bunch of peculiar comfortable nights sleep, but sets them apart.
DIRECTORY
Hotel Types Compare prices Gay Hotels Sir Albert
travelsuper Gaytic Information Albert Cuypstraat 2,
Stayokay
stayokay.com market.com Centre De Pijp, 1072 CT
Bungalow Parks
The Netherlands has at least 350 holiday villages
(bungalowparken), with dozens to hundreds of bungalows TERSCHELLING
or cabins, many designed for four to eight persons, together WEST FRISIAN
with numerous facilities such as supermarkets and restaurants. ISLANDS
They also provide many recreation facilities, some open-air and VLIELAND
others indoors for days when the weather is not at its best. SLUFTERVALLEI
KRIM
Rental is by the week, midweek or weekend, with arrival and PARC TEXEL TEXEL
departure on set days. The parks are often situated in areas of CREATIEF BEACH
CALIFORNI
natural beauty and offer plenty to do in the surrounding area. PARK TEXEL
NORTH
HOLLAND
0 kilometres 40
0 miles 40
AMSTERDAM
ZANDVOORT
PARC EFTELING
BURGH-HAAMSTEDE DROOMRIJK
NOORD- B
DE SCHOTSMAN
DE ROSEP
Middelburg DE FLAASBLOEM BRABANTS
Port Zlande HOF VAN ZEELAND BOERDERIJDORP
ZWARTVEN
This Mediterranean-style
CenterParcs Park at Lake ZEEBAD
Grevelingen features numerous PANNENSCHUUR ZEELAND B HET VENNENBOS
De Flaasbloem
The initially (and still
mildly) Christian RCN
recreation parks offer
relatively inexpensive
bungalows and plenty
to do for children.
W H E R E TO S TAY 393
HET STOETENSLAGH
OVERIJSSEL
Lelystad Zwolle CREATIEF VILLAPARK
DE VLEGGE
FLEVOLAND
GERNER
HOOGWOLDE HOGE HEXEL
DE JAGERSTEE
B.C. HELLENDOORN
PARC EPE ZILVERBERK HELLENDOORN
DE EEMHOF
SALLANDSHOEVE
LANDGOED
ZEEWOLDE 'T LOO VAKANTIEPARK
HEIHAAS DE PRINS
TWENHAARSVELD
RABBIT HILL RUIGHENRODE
ELDORADO PARC
MIGGELENBERG BEEKBERGEN 'T STIEN 'N BOER
HEIDEHEUVEL
ARCEN
LOOHORST
M
HET MEERDAL
R
PARC
VLIERDEN
E
DE KEMPERVENNEN G
DE LOMMERBERGEN
WEERTERBERGEN
LIMBURG
HOMMELHEIDE
Maastricht SIMPELVELD
DE MECHELERHOF
HOOG VAALS
Landal Hoog Vaals
In the rolling landscape of Limburg, Landal combines
beautiful countryside with a plethora of activities.
394 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Camping
Many people regard camping as the ideal way to take a holiday.
It is inexpensive, you are out in the open air, often in beautiful
natural locations. Camping comes in many shapes and sizes:
settling in one place for the whole holiday or hopping from one
campsite to the next; you can camp in a tent, a caravan, a tent-
trailer or a camper van; you can camp in nature, on a farm or in
a holiday park. The Netherlands, with its many different types of
campsites, has something for everyone.
accommodation.
The advantage of
renting, of course, is
that you travel lighter.
DIRECTORY
Nature Camping SVR (Stichting Vrije Guides alanrogers.com
Recreatie) europe-camping-
Vereniging Gastvrije ANWB online
svr.nl guide.com/en/list/
Landgoederen booking
netherlands
Tel 0318-578555. Trekkershutten anwbcamping.nl/
eurocampings.eu/
Tel 030-6033701. nederland.html
gastvrije en/europe/netherlands
trekkershutten.nl (Dutch only)
landgoederen.nl
VeKaBo (Vereniging ANWB Voordeel
Karaktervolle Groene
van Kampeerboeren) Campinggids 1 & 2
Campings Both list hundreds
Tel 0900-3336668.
kgc.nl of campsites in the
vekabo.nl
Netherlands, and
Nivon
Family Campsites thousands in the rest
Natuurvrienden
of Europe (Dutch only).
nivon.nl Roompot Parken
Online camping
Stichting Natuur Tel 0113-374297.
guides
kampeerterreinen roompot.nl
Lists over 750 campsites
Tel 030-6033701. Vacansoleil inspected by the ANWB.
natuur Tel 0900-9899. en.camping.info/
kampeerterreinen.nl vacansoleil.nl netherlands
396 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Where to Stay
Western Canal Ring Price Guide
Amsterdam The Times Hotel Prices are based on one nights stay
Waterside Map 1 C4 in high season in a standard double
Oude Zijde Herengracht 135137, 1015 BG room, inclusive of VAT, tourist tax and
service charge.
The Grand Tel (020) 330 6030
up to 100
Luxury Map 5 A1 thetimeshotel.nl
100 to 180
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197, 1012 EX Set in combined canal houses over 180
Tel (020) 555 3111 dating from 1650, this hotel
sofitel.com blends modern comfort with
A World Travel award nominee, old Dutch tradition. three gardens, a restaurant, bar
The Grand has a lush courtyard and wine salon. Guests can take
enclosed by a 17th-century town The Dylan saloon boat tours of the canals.
hall. Rooms have modern decor. Luxury Map 1 B5
Keizersgracht 384, 1016 GB
Tel (020) 530 2010 Eastern Canal Ring
DK Choice dylanamsterdam.com
Htel Droog Refined and tasteful, each room
Hotels with Character Map 5 A2 and suite at The Dylan is unique. DK Choice
Staalstraat 7B, 1011 JJ Michelin-starred restaurant. Banks Mansion
Tel (020) 523 5059 Waterside Map 5 A2
hoteldroog.com The Toren Herengracht 519525, 1017 BV
Htel Droogs designers offer Luxury Map 1 C4 Tel (020) 420 0055
a hospitality experience with a Keizersgracht 164, 1015 CZ carlton.nl/banksmansion
twist. Theres only one room here Tel (020) 622 6352 This monumental former bank-
but with a few extras an art thetoren.nl cum-canal mansion is a Travellers
gallery, beauty salon, fashion This Travellers Choice award Choice award winner. Rooms
boutique, indoor garden, tea winner features garden-side are lovely, with Frank Lloyd
room/caf and design store. suites with two-person Jacuzzis. Wright-inspired decor.
Everything is included in the
price: breakfast, movies, self-
misc eatdrinksleep Central Canal Ring service bar, even iPad loans.
Waterside Map 5 A1 Acostar Hotel
Kloveniersburgwal 20, 1012 CV Charming Map 4 E1
Tel (020) 330 6241 Kerkstraat 4549, 1017 GB
misceatdrinksleep.com Tel (020) 330 0242 Museum Quarter
Six miscellaneously-themed rooms acostarhotel.com Stayokay City
(e.g. Rembrandt, Baroque) offer Located near Leidseplein, this Hostel Vondelpark
amenities such as rain showers, hotel offers 30 rooms on five floors. Family-friendly Map 4 D2
espresso machines or free minibar. Bike hire and laundry service. Zandpad 5, 1054 GA
Tel (020) 589 8996
Hotel Pulitzer stayokay.com/vondelpark
Nieuwe Zijde Luxury Map 1 B5 This sprawling hostel offers great-
Hotel Des Arts Prinsengracht 315, 1016 GZ value rooms ranging from 20-
Family-friendly Map 4 F1 Tel (020) 523 5235 bed dorms to double rooms.
Rokin 154156, 1012 LE pulitzeramsterdam.com
Tel (020) 620 1558 Stay in 17th- and 18th-century Conscious Hotel
hoteldesarts.nl restored canal houses. There are Museum Square
Intimate single, family and group Design Map 4 D4
rooms are on offer here; some De Lairessestraat 7, 1071 NR
with lovely canal views. Tel (020) 671 9596
conscioushotels.com
Hotel Sint Nicolaas An eco-friendly Green Key gold
Hotels with Character Map 2 D4 certificate holder, this modern
Spuistraat 1A, 1012 SP hotel features a gorgeous garden.
Tel (020) 626 1384
hotelnicolaas.nl
Housed in a former harbour DK Choice
office and mattress factory, this Conservatorium
quirky hotel has oddly-shaped en- Luxury Map 4 D3
suite rooms. Breakfast included. Van Baerlestraat 27, 1071 AN
Tel (020) 570 0000
DoubleTree conservatoriumhotel.com
Business Map 2 F4 Housed in a former music
Oosterdoksstraat 4, 1011 DK conservatory, the space has
Tel (020) 530 0800 been imaginatively reused. It has
doubletree3.hilton.com high ceilings and a beautiful
This large hotel with harbour views atrium designed by Piero Lissoni.
features 16 conference halls, free Almost half the rooms are
Wi-Fi, remote printing facilities, Brick exterior of Htel Droog duplexes, with amazing views.
fitness rooms and a DVD library. in Amsterdam
W H E R E TO S TAY 397
HEEMSKERK: Stayokay
DK Choice Historic Map B3
Amsterdam House Tolweg 9, 1967 NG
Family-friendly Map 5 A2 Tel (0251) 232 288
s-Gravelandse Veer 34, 1011 KM stayokay.com
Tel (020) 626 2577 Enjoy the experience of staying Simple, subtle decor at Stempels hotel
amsterdamhouse.com in a medieval castle with turrets, in Haarlem
Enjoy a true Amsterdam on-the- towers, moat and gardens at this
water experience. Stay on a hostel. Shared and private rooms. UTRECHT: Mary K
houseboat with a well-equipped Bike rental service. Charming Map C4
kitchen and bathrooms. Rooms Oudegracht 25, 3511 AB
and apartment are warm, bright, Tel (030) 230 4888
modern, and great for groups. DK Choice marykhotel.com
ZAANDAM: Inntel Located at the quiet end of the
Design Map B3 Oudegracht, the quirky Mary K
InterContinental Amstel Provincialeweg 102, 1506 MD offers rooms of all sizes, each
Amsterdam Tel (075) 631 1711 designed by a local artist.
Luxury Map 5 B4 inntelhotels.nl
Professor Tulpplein 1, 1018 GX The unique building of this
Tel (020) 622 6060 four-star hotel resembles the DK Choice
amsterdam.intercontinental.com famous wooden houses of UTRECHT: Dom
This rock star favourite offers the nearby Zaanse Schans. Design Map C4
great views over the Amstel The contemporary rooms are Domstraat 4, 3512 JB
river. First class service. Michelin- inspired by the towns history Tel (030) 232 4242
starred restaurant. or pay homage to its residents. hoteldom.nl
Contemporary restyling has
transformed this 18th-century
Further Afield ZUIDOOSTBEEMSTER: Fort building into a luxury hotel.
Lloyd Hotel Resort Beemster Stay in one of their state-of-
Hotels with Character Hotels with Character Map C3 the-art rooms with Auping
Oostelijke Handelskade 34, 1019 BN Nekkerweg 24, 1461 LC beds, Nespresso machines
Tel (020) 561 3636 Tel (0299) 682 200 and yoga mats. The hotel also
lloydhotel.com fortresortbeemster.nl has a coveted restaurant and
Rooms vary from simple to luxur- This hotel is housed in a historic a cocktail bar out of a Bond
ious at this industrial-chic hotel building that was once a part of movie. Quite an experience.
located in a former borstal. Unique the Defence Line of Amsterdam,
focus on culture and events. a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Great spa and wellness facilities. ZEIST: Kasteel Kerckebosch
Historic Map C4
Arnhemse Bovenweg 31, 3708 AA
North Holland Tel (030) 692 6666
Utrecht kasteelkerckebosch.nl
BERGEN AAN ZEE: Blooming This castle in the woods has
Design Map B3 AMERONGEN: Buitenlust modern rooms and an excellent
Duinweg 5, 1861 GL Charming Map C4 restaurant. Amenities include bike
Tel (072) 582 0520 Burg Jhr H v d Boschstraat 13, 3958 CA rental and packed lunch boxes.
blooming-hotels.com Tel (0343) 451 692
This hip hotel is set in 11 ha buitenlust-amerongen.nl
(27 acres) of private woodland and Located near Utrechtse Heuvelrug
dunes. Rooms range from tiny National Park, Buitenlust is a great South Holland
singles to bright and airy suites. option to explore the surrounding
area. Cheerful, spacious rooms. DELFT: De Bieslandse
BROEK IN WATERLAND: Inn on Heerlijkheid
the Lake AMERSFOORT: Logies Charming Map B4
Charming Map C3 de Tabaksplant Klein Delfgauw 61, 2616 LC
Kerkplein 11, 1151 AH Historic Map C4 Tel (015) 310 7126
Tel (020) 331 8573 Coninckstraat 15, 3811 WD bieslandseheerlijkheid.nl
innonthelake.nl Tel (033) 472 9797 Surrounded by acres of polderland,
Housed in a former vicarage dating tabaksplant.nl this rustic B&B is set in a converted
back to the 17th century, this B&B Rooms are spread over several farmhouse. The main building
offers four uniquely-styled rooms medieval buildings, with a lovely has four comfortable rooms, plus
with five-star amenities. restaurant and courtyard. a cosy garden house.
For more information on types of hotels see page 391
398 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
DE SCHIPHORST: Chteau De
Havixhorst Flevoland
Luxury Map D3
De Schiphorsterweg 3436, 7966 AC EMMELOORD: Hotel
Tel (0522) 441 487 Emmeloord
dehavixhorst.nl Business Map D2
Stay in lavish suites in a romantic Het Hooiveld 9, 8302 AE
17th-century manor house on Tel (0527) 612 345
an estate with Baroque gardens. hotelemmeloord.nl
This great-value hotel is located
NORG: De Eshof beside a marina, 20 minutes from
Charming Map D2 the national park.
Esweg 25, 9331 AP
Tel 06 2169 0092 LELYSTAD: Waterlodge de
eshofnorg.nl Aalscholver
Three rooms, a sauna and a pool Design Map C3
are on offer at this B&B in a con- Beautifully decorated guest room at Modez Riksweg A6, Parkeerplaats de
verted 18th-century Saxon farm. in Arnhem Aalschover, 8218 PW
Tel (036) 523 9273
HOLTEN: Hoog Holten haje.nu
DK Choice Charming Map D3 Accommodation at this offbeat
VEENHUIZEN: Bitter & Zoet Forthaarsweg 7, 7451 JS roadside restaurant is in rooms in
Historic Map D2 Tel (0548) 361 306 a floating hotel ark on the water.
Hospitaallaan 16, 9341 AH hoogholten.nl
Tel (0592) 385 002 Wonderful hideaway in a former LELYSTAD: De Groene
bitterenzoetveenhuizen.nl hunting lodge, Hoog Holten Watertuinen
Dedication, Obligation and features well-furnished rooms, Luxury Map C3
Bitter & Sweet the three build- a pleasant terrace, wine bar and Groene Velden 154, 8211 BD
ings of a monumental 19th- a restaurant. Tel (0320) 263 310
century hospital complex now groenewatertuinen.nl
make for a boutique hotel with LATTROP: Landgoed de Set in a leafy suburb, this hotel
stylish rooms and apartments, Holtweijde features two suites, plus a pool,
a sauna, restaurant and bakery. Luxury Map E3 jacuzzi and sauna.
Spiekweg 7, 7635 LP
Tel (0541) 229 234
ZEEGSE: De Zeegser Duinen holtweijde.nl DK Choice
Charming Map D2 The tranquil setting adds to the URK: Pension het Anker Wijk
Schipborgerweg 8, 9483 TL charm of this five-star resort. There Charming Map C3
Tel (0592) 530 099 are suites and private cottages, as 413/Prins Hendrikstraat 13,
hoteldezeegserduinen.nl well as a spa, tennis courts and 8321 GC
This four-star hotel is set in a driving range. Tel (0527) 685 307
wooded nature reserve. Check in, overnachteninurk.nl
go cycling and return to unwind. TUBBERGEN: Drostes One of Urks best B&Bs, this snug,
Design Map E3 little place is housed in a former
Uelserweg 95, 7651 KV fishermans cottage in the older
Tel (0546) 621 264 part of the village. Its here that
Overijssel drostes.nl guests can get an experience
A cosy, contemporary inn with of how the fishing village
BLOKZIJL: Kaatjes Rsidence a restaurant, Drostes is set amid traditionally looked.
Design Map D2 rolling meadows. Rooms are
Brouwerstraat 20, 8356 DV comfortable; some feature a
Tel (0527) 291 833 balcony or terrace.
kaatje.nl
Located on a pretty square, this ZWOLLE: Hampshire Gelderland
luxurious B&B has modern rooms Hotel Lumen
and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Design Map D3 ARNHEM: Modez
Stadionplein 20, 8025 CP Design Map D4
Tel (088) 147 1471 Elly Lamakerplantsoen 4, 6822 BZ
DK Choice hotellumen.nl Tel (026) 442 0993
HENGELO: Tuindorphotel t Four-star hotel with an odd hotelmodez.nl
Lansink soccer stadium location, but This striking hotel is decorated by
Hotels with Character Map E3 super stylish lobby, lounge 30 designers under the guidance
C T Storkstraat 18, 7553 AR and restaurant. of fashion illustrator Piet Paris.
Tel (074) 291 0066
hotellansink.com ZWOLLE: De Koperen Hoogte BRUMMEN: Het Oude
Built a century ago as part of a Design Map D3 Postkantoor
garden village for Stork factory Lichtmisweg 51, 8035 PL Charming Map D4
workers, this small-scale grand Tel (0529) 428 428 Zutphensestraat 6, 6971 EM
hotel once hosted famous (and dekoperenhoogte.nl Tel (0575) 566 781
royal) guests. Today, it has heaps Rooms are kitschy, but luxurious hetoudepostkantoor.nl
of character, a fine-dining restau- at this hotel housed in a former The village post office has been
rant and contemporary rooms. water tower. Theres a revolving converted into a small hotel with
restaurant offering great views. authentic details.
Key to Price Guide see page 396
W H E R E TO S TAY 401
DOETINCHEM: Villa Ruimzicht KAATSHEUVEL: Efteling Hotel between four characterful rooms
Charming Map D4 Design Map D5 and two spacious suites. Theres
Ruimzichtlaan 150, 7001 KG Horst 31, 5171 RA also a parlour and a terrace.
Tel (0314) 320 680 Tel (0416) 537 777
hotelvillaruimzicht.nl efteling.com
Adventurous cooking, designer Four-star hotel in a cloud castle
furniture and art come together near a well-known amusement Limburg
at this 19th-century manor. park. Fairytale-themed rooms.
KERKRADE: Abdij Rolduc
HARDERWIJK: Harderwijk Historic Map D6
op de Veluwe DK Choice Heyendallaan 82, 6464 EP
Luxury Map C3 NIEUWENDIJK: Fort Tel (045) 546 6888
Leuvenumseweg 7, 3847 LA Bakkerskil rolduc.com
Tel (0341) 801 010 Historic Map C4 A 900-year-old abbey that now
hotelharderwijk.com Kildijk 143, 4255 TH houses a conference centre,
All smartly furnished rooms have Tel 06 4593 4892 restaurant and hotel.
Jacuzzis and rain showers at this bakkerskil.nl
four-star hotel. Part of the 19th-century New MAASTRICHT: Zenden
Dutch Water Line, this sturdy Design Map C6
NIJMEGEN: Manna fort has now been converted Sint Bernardusstraat 5, 6211 HK
Design Map D4 into a B&B: choose between Tel (043) 321 2211
Oranjesingel 2C, 6511 NS a bed in the sickbay, powder zenden.nl
Tel (024) 365 0990 magazine or explosives storage. Minimalist rooms with Auping
manna-nijmegen.nl beds, Vitra furniture, Alessi baths.
Individually decorated suites and
studios are on offer at this stylish OISTERWIJK: Stille Wilde MAASTRICHT:
boutique hotel. Family-friendly Map C5 Kruisherenhotel
Scheibaan 11, 5062 TM Luxury Map C6
OTTERLO: Sterrenberg Tel (013) 528 2301 Kruisherengang 1923, 6211 NW
Design Map D4 stillewilde.nl Tel (043) 329 2020
Houtkampweg 1, 6731 AV Comfortable rooms with terrace chateauhotels.nl
Tel (0318) 591 228 or balcony are on offer here. Design hotel with individually
sterrenberg.nl Ample recreational opportunities. decorated rooms.
This wonderful hideaway is close
to the Hoge Veluwe national park. OSSENDRECHT: De Volksabdij
Great restaurant, indoor pool, spa. Historic Map B5 DK Choice
Onze Lieve Vrouwe ter Duinenlaan ROERMOND: Het
199, 4641 RM Arresthuis
DK Choice Tel (0164) 672 546 Hotels with Character Map D5
TEUGE: Airplane Suite devolksabdij.nl Pollartstraat 7, 6041 GC
Hotels with Character Map D3 The well-appointed rooms of this Tel (0475) 870 870
De Zanden 61B, 7395 PA heritage hotel occupy a former hetarresthuis.nl
Tel 06 1938 8603 monastery, set in a nature reserve. The cells of this 19th-century
vliegtuighotel.nl prison have been converted
An Ilyushin 18 aircraft that flew S-HERTOGENBOSCH: into comfort cachots. The
Communist Party moguls in the Stadshotel Jeroen wardens office is now a luxury
1960s has been converted into Charming Map C4 suite, the yard has become a
a suite for two with an Auping Jeroen Boschplein 6, 5211 ML patio, and instead of roll calls,
bed, pantry, sauna and jacuzzi. Tel (073) 610 3556 there are six-course dinners.
The cockpit is still fully equipped. stadshoteljeroenbosch.nl
This stylish hotel is named after
painter Hieronymus Bosch. Choose SITTARD: Merici
Historic Map D6
Oude Markt 25, 6131 EN
North Brabant Tel (046) 400 9002
hotelmerici.nl
BREDA: Bliss Merici is a charming four-star
Design Map B5 hotel set inside a 19th-century
Torenstraat 911, 4811 XV Ursuline boarding school.
Tel (076) 533 5980
blisshotel.nl VALKENBURG AAN DE GEUL:
Nine themed suites come with Dieteren
Jacuzzis, fireplaces, workstations Charming Map D6
or terraces. Neerhem 34, 6301 CH
Tel (043) 601 5404
GELDROP: Nijver hoteldieterenvalkenburg.nl
Design Map D5 Located beside the cable car
Heuvel 1A, 5664 HJ in a picture-perfect town,
Tel (040) 286 7000 Dieteren offers comfortable
hotelnijver.nl rooms with balcony or
Nijver is a boutique hotel that pays terrace. Theres also a pool
tribute to the textile industry with Airplane Suite, Teuge, set in a disused and a garden.
its nine stylishly decorated suites. Ilyushin 18 aircraft
For more information on types of hotels see page 391
402 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Travellers with
Disabilities
Many restaurants are accessible
for wheelchairs, but even if they
are, toilet facilities may still pose
a problem, as they are often
reached via stairs and therefore
not easily accessible.
Drinks
All but the most informal
restaurants will have a wine list
offering a range of fine wines
to accompany your meal.
Vibrant interiors at Eetbar Dit (see p415) in s-Hertogenbosch Although French wines are still
the staple, New World wines
majority of restaurants open Etiquette have become increasingly
at 6pm and the kitchens usually The atmosphere at many Dutch popular. Upmarket restaurants
close around 10pm. An increasing restaurants is fairly informal, and will have a sommelier to help
number of restaurants stay open you can generally wear what you with your choice, and many
all day, serving breakfast, lunch you like; smart casual dress is offer a wine package, serving a
and dinner and light meals or suitable almost everywhere. In glass of carefully paired wine
snacks in between. upmarket restaurants, however, with your meal.
In the cities, night restaurants dressing smartly is appropriate. Typically Dutch brown cafs
are on the rise, with kitchens Smoking is banned in all are making way for airy grand
staying open until midnight restaurants. It is considered cafs and sleek cocktail bars,
or later, allowing you to round impolite to use your mobile offering a long list of exotic
off a visit to the theatre or phone while at the table. aperitifs. However, for most
movies with a late dinner. Dutch, beer is still the tipple of
Traditionally, many restaurants choice, with Heineken or any
do not open on Mondays, though Prices other Dutch lager on tap
this is also changing. Restaurants are legally obliged everywhere.
to display their menu outside,
with prices, inclusive of VAT
Reservations Recommended
Anybody wishing to eat in Restaurants
one of the countrys more The restaurants listed on pages
renowned restaurants would 406415 have been selected not
do well to book, and sometimes only for the quality of food served,
booking a few days in advance but also on the basis of value for
or weeks for the most money, atmosphere, location
acclaimed restaurants is and service. Obviously, some
advisable. Eetcafs and other restaurants are better than
informal eateries can get crowded others and a few stand out for
in the evenings, but reservations a particular reason, such as
are usually accepted only for their innovative chef, pleasant
large groups, if at all. A snack bar, ideal for a quick but satisfying waterside terrace or romantic
bite to eat atmosphere. For each region
we have have handpicked
Tipping (BTW) and service. Prices can one such exceptional restaurant,
It is customary to leave a vary markedly, and a restaurant ranging from a yearround
tip of roughly 10 per cent by can be found in each price class: beach club at the quiet end of
rounding up the amount. If you can find many establish Zandvoort beach, via a tiny Italian
you pay by credit card, you can ments where you can eat for trattoria dishing out fantastic king
either add the tip to the bill less than 25; in top restaurants, crab cannelloni, to a Michelin
or leave change on the table. however, you should not be starred restaurant in a fairytale
Leaving no tip at all is usually surprised if your bill exceeds castle, with a terrace that seems
done only when you are 70, excluding wine. The cost to float in the moat. Here you
particularly dissatisfied with of drinks is invariably extra will not only be guaranteed a
the service provided. At and the markup levied by a decent meal, but also gain a
very informal places, such restaurant, especially on house memorable experience. Our
as takeaways or snack bars, wine and table water, can highly recommended restaurants
tipping is not expected. be high. are marked as DK Choice.
404 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Indonesian Legacy
The Dutch began colonizing
Indonesia in the 17th century
and ruled the southeast
Asian archipelago right up
until 1949. Indonesian cuisine
has had a marked influence
on eating habits in the
Netherlands. Ingredients
once regarded as exotic have
crept into Dutch dishes. It is
now commonplace to spice
up apple pies and biscuits
with cinnamon, which is
sometimes even used to
flavour vegetables. Coconut
Baskets of wild mushrooms at an organic market and chillis are very popular
flavourings, too, and sampling
persecution in Portugal and citys favourite late-night snacks. a rijsttafel (see below) is
Antwerp were some of the first Ethiopians, Greeks, Thais, Italians considered one of the
foreigners to make their home in and Japanese are among other highlights of any trip to
the city. Today, Amsterdammers waves of immigrants to make the country.
count as their own such Jewish their culinary mark, and most
specialities as pekelvlees (salt beef), recently traditional British fare THE RIJSTTAFEL
pickled vegetables (often served has become popular.
as salad) and a variety of sticky Dutch colonialists in Indonesia
cakes, now found mostly in the often found that the modest
local portions failed to satisfy
more old-fashioned tea-rooms.
their hunger. To match their
The 20th century saw an
larger appetites, they created the
influx of immigrants from
rijsttafel (literally rice-table). It
Turkey and several North consists of around 20 small spicy
African countries. Large Arab dishes, served up with a shared
and Turkish communities bowl of rice or noodles. Pork or
have become established chicken satay (mini kebabs with
in Amsterdam. As a result, peanut sauce) and kroepoek
restaurants with menus that (prawn crackers) usually arrive
feature Middle-Eastern style first. A selection of curried meat
stuffed vegetables, succulent and vegetable dishes follows,
stews and couscous, are almost with perhaps a plate of fried tofu
everywhere. Falafel (fried and various salads, all more or
chickpea balls) are readily less served together. A sweet
available from road-side take- Gouda on offer in an Amsterdam treat, such as bananas fried in
aways and are now one of the cheese shop batter, rounds it all off.
Shrimp croquettes are shrimps Stamppot is a hearty dish of curly Nasi goreng, an Indonesian-style dish
in a creamy sauce, coated in kale or endive (chicory) and crispy of egg-fried rice with pork and mush-
breadcrumbs and deep-fried. bacon mixed with mashed potato. rooms, is also popular for a rijsttafel.
406 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
DVijff Vlieghen
In de Waag Traditional Map 1 C5
Fusion Map 5 B1 Spuistraat 294302, 1012 VX
Nieuwmarkt 4, 1012 CR Tel (020) 530 4060
Tel (020) 422 7772 Dine surrounded by original
This restaurant is located in a 1488 Rembrandt etchings and 17th-
guildhouse, on the top floor of century furnishings. Try lightly
which Rembrandt once took smoked duck breast, or the
anatomy lessons. Informal interior surprising chefs menu.
lit by 300 candles. Eclectic menu,
divine desserts. Book ahead.
Central Canal Ring
Kilimanjaro Goodies
African Map 5 C1 Mediterranean Map 4 E1
Rapenburgerplein 6, 1011 VB Huidenstraat 9, 1016 ER
Tel (020) 622 3485 Closed Mon Tel (020) 625 6122
Sample West-African antelope Elegant, bistro-style decor at Visrestaurant An informal diner, Goodies serves
stew or Senegalese crocodile Lucius, Amsterdam great food made from organic
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 407
Pancakes!
Bakery Map 1 B5
38 Berenstraat, 1016 GH
Tel (020) 528 9797
Dutch and international pancakes
are served in grand style. The
flour is specially milled from the
Dutch grain mill, de Korenmolen.
Sustainably sourced ingredients.
Balthazars Keuken
International Map 1 B5
Elandsgracht 108, 1016 VA A beautifully laid table at Balthazars Keuken, Amsterdam
Tel (020) 420 2114 Closed SunTue
An open kitchen gives the feeling Eastern Canal Ring De Waaghals
of dining at someones home. Try Kingfisher Vegetarian Map 4 F3
the weekly changing three-course International Map 4 F4 Frans Halsstraat 29, 1072 BK
menu with up to five appetizers Ferdinand Bolstraat 24, 1072 LK Tel (020) 679 9609
and pre-chosen wine. Tel (020) 671 2395 Beautifully prepared creative
Good food, ranging from snacks cuisine featuring organic produce
Portuglia (shrimp croquettes) to lunch attracts diners here. The menu
Portuguese Map 4 E1 (Ploughmans sandwich or grilled changes twice a month and
Kerkstraat 35, 1017 GB pork belly) to a day menu (fish, always features one international
Tel (020) 625 6490 meat or vegetarian) is on offer special of the month.
This family-run restaurant serves here. Free Wi-Fi. Excellent value.
simple cuisine with an emphasis Sluizer
on fish and meat. Try the single- Buffet van Odette International Map 5 A3
pan dishes (Cataplana), like the Brasserie Map 4 F2 Utrechtsestraat 4145, 1017 VH
monkfish, clams, shrimp and Prinsengracht 598, 1017 KS Tel (020) 622 6376
potatoes in a cream sauce. Tel (020) 423 6034 Closed Tue Two restaurants operate under
Light and sunny with a great one roof: Specialties and Fish.
Salmuera terrace, this place serves breakfast, Extensive la carte and changing
International Map 1 A5 lunch and dinner. Ingredients are choice menus, with international
Rozengracht 106, 1016 NH mostly organic and locally sourced. meat, fish and vegetarian options.
Tel (020) 624 5752 Popular choices: the truffle cheese
Taste Latin-inspired international omelette and steak sandwich.
dishes at this popular restaurant. Museum Quarter
Try the classic ceviche or feast John Dory Het Blauwe Theehuis
on the streetfood platter. Seafood Map 5 A3 Fusion Map 3 C3
Prinsengracht 999, 1017 KM Vondelpark 5, 1071 AA
Struisvogel Tel (020) 622 9044 Closed Sun & Mon Tel (020) 662 0254 Closed winter
International Map 1 B5 Housed in a restored warehouse Housed in a 1937 circular building
Keizersgracht 312, 1016 EX dating back to 1860, this comfort- with a huge terrace, the Blue
Tel (020) 423 3817 able restaurant offers three- Teahouse overlooks the charming
In the cellar of a canal house, to seven-course menus. Good Vondelpark. The breakfast and
Struisvogel serves French organic selection of wines. Attentive staff. lunch menus are European,
cuisine. Try the value-for-money French or Mediterranean based.
set menu, accompanied by Roses Cantina
apple-orange crumble with South American Map 4 F1 Caf Toussaint
vanilla ice cream. Reguliersdwarsstraat 3840, 1017 BM International Map 4 D1
Tel (020) 625 9797 Bosboom Toussaintstraat 26, 1054 AS
The menu at this established, Tel (020) 685 0737
DK Choice sprawling South American rest- This small caf with an open
Restaurant Vinkeles aurant focuses on tacos, enchiladas kitchen is an absolute gem. Focus
French Map 1 B5 and quesadilla. Also try Roses is on healthy, international fare:
Keizersgracht 384, 1016 GB house burger. Great cocktails, and soups, sandwiches and tapas.
Tel (020) 530 2010 Closed Sun a tequilla library. DJs on weekend. Good range for vegetarians.
At this world famous, Michelin-
starred restaurant, ask to be Steakhouse Piet de Leeuw Due Napoletani
seated amid 18th-century Traditional Map 4 F2 Italian Map 4 E4
bakery ovens, or dine on a Noorderstraat 11, 1017 TR Hobbemakade 6163, 1071 XL
19th-century salon boat. Be Tel (020) 623 7181 Tel (020) 671 1263 Closed Tue
prepared for the finest of fine- Open since 1949, this eatery is Chic Italian cuisine is served in
dining experiences, featuring famous for its steaks (beef and an informal setting. The pasta
the best in French cuisine. horse) and fish (sole, salmon). al parmigiano is a popular dish.
The anjou duif (pigeon) is Frequented by locals who praise Staff here are so accomodating
particularly recommended. the food as well as the brown that if you call ahead, they will
caf decor. also open for lunch.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 402
408 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
The Seafood Bar they also serve Dutch wild boar dishes and set menus are on offer
Seafood Map 4 D3 and Italian, Indonesian and Indian at this neighbourhood Japanese-
Van Baerlestraat 5II, 1071 AL fare. Credit cards are not accepted. style brasserie. The squid and the
Tel (020) 670 8355 St Jacques sashimi are wonderful.
This sleek and trendy seafood Bloem Credit cards not accepted.
bar is open for lunch and dinner. European Map 6 D2
The menu changes every three Entrepotdok 36, 1018 AD
months, although some favourites Tel (020) 330 0929 DK Choice
remain. Popular dishes include Almost all the bread, fruit, La Rive
fruits de mer and fish and chips. vegetables and meat served here Mediterranean Map 5 B4
are organic, and locally sourced Amstel Hotel, Professor Tulpplein 1,
Srikandi wherever possible. Delicious, as 1018 GX
Indonesian Map 4 E2 well as healthy. Tel (020) 520 3264 Closed Mon,
Stadhouderskade 31, 1071 ZD lunch on Sat
Tel (020) 664 0408 De Pizzabakkers Plantage La Rive offers beautiful, elegant
Art and music create an authentic Italian Map 5 C2 cuisine elevated to the level
atmosphere at this traditional Plantage Kerklaan 2, 1018 TA of art. This Michelin-starred
Indonesian restaurant. Known for Tel (020) 625 0740 restaurant is located in the
its version of a rijsttafel (rice table) Come here for authentic Italian ultra-lux Amstel Hotel, and
with 18 dishes. Good vegetarian pizza, made with locally sourced serves dishes inspired by
options. Book ahead. ingredients, and baked in a wood French and Mediterranean
oven. Good range of antipasti, flavours, created using high-
The College Hotel vegetarian choices and desserts. quality seasonal produce.
Modern Dutch Map 4 E5 Cash not accepted. It also has a selection of
Roelof Hartstraat 1, 1071 VE outstanding wines. Reserve
Tel (020) 571 1511 Paerz the Chefs table.
Housed in a former 1895 school European Map 6 D2
building, this elegant venue Entrepotdok 64, 1018 AD
combines a restaurant, hotel and Tel (020) 623 2206 Closed Mon & Tue
lounge bar. Known for its classic Choose from the chefs menu Western Canal Ring
Dutch cuisine with a modern with three or four courses or the De Bolhoed
twist. Lovely courtyard. la carte menu. Both are inspired International Map 1 B3
by classic French cuisine and Prinsengracht 6062, 1015 DX
Le Garage feature seasonal produce. In Tel (020) 626 1803
International Map 4 E4 summer, the seating beside the Enjoy pleasant views from the
Ruysdaelstraat 5456, 1071 XE water is particularly pleasant. canalside terrace at this popular
Tel (020) 679 7176 Closed Sun; vegetarian restaurant. It serves
Sat lunch De Plantage imaginative international dishes
Le Garage is an elegant bistro International Map 5 C2 (Mexican, Mediterranean, Asian,
with plush red seating, set in a Plantage Kerklaan 36, 1018 CZ African) with a daily vegan choice.
renovated garage. French and Tel (020) 760 6800 Mostly organic and seasonal
international fare on offer, with an This industrial-chic restaurant, next ingredients, along with delicious
emphasis on organic ingredients. to the zoo, offers breakfast, lunch desserts. Book ahead.
and dinner. Try the daily changing
Plats Plantage (mixed plate of Greenwoods
Plantage meats or vegetarian options) Tearoom Map 1 C4
Aguada or the juicy Burgos lamb. Singel 103, 1012 VG
International Map 5 C3 Tel (020) 623 7071
Roetersstraat 10-W, 1018 WC Tempura Opt for a full English breakfast
Tel (020) 620 3782 Japanese Map 5 C2 (served all day) or a more delicate
This tiny, family-run caf-restaurant Plantage Kerklaan 26, 1018 TC high tea at this welcoming
offers home-cooked food in Tel (020) 428 7132 Closed Mon English-style tearoom. Another
an informal atmosphere. Cheese Extensive sushi, yakatori, tempura, branch, on the Keizersgracht 465,
fondue is their speciality, but as well as grilled and vegetarian also serves dinner (fish and chips).
Pancake Bakery
Bakery Map 1 C3
Prinsengracht 191, 1015 DS
Tel (020) 625 1333
This family-run eatery serves a
variety of pancakes. Favourites
include Egyptian (lamb, paprika,
garlic sauce), Caprese (mushrooms,
mozzarella, basil pesto, sundried
tomatoes) and the classic Dutch
(syrup, powdered sugar or bacon).
Piqniq
Caf Map 1 C3
Lindengracht 59,1015 KC
Tel (020) 320 3669 Closed Tue
Piqniq offers a selection of
Elegant interiors at the Michelin-starred La Rive in Amsterdam miniature homemade goodies:
Key to Price Guide see page 406
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 409
HOOFDDORP: Vork en Mes serves sandwiches, soup and relaxed atmosphere prove to be
Creative Map B3 snacks by day, and stone oven a winning combination. Try the
Paviljoenlaan 1, 2131 LZ pizzas, steaks and more lamb with apricots, sesame and
Tel (023) 557 2963 Closed Sun sophisticated dishes at night. seasonal vegetables.
Futuristic pavilion on the lake
provides a unique setting for a MAARSSEN: De Nonnerie
leisurely meal. The chef was trained French Map C4
at Michelin-starred restaurants Utrecht Langegracht 51, 3601 AK
and cooks up a changing five- Tel (0346) 562 201 Closed Sun; lunch
course surprise menu. AMERSFOORT: Hop en Hen Creative cooking guarantees a
International Map C4 great dining experience at this
MONNICKENDAM: Hof 8, 3811 CJ beautifully restored former
Posthoorn Tel (033) 737 0005 Closed Mon nunnery by the Vecht river. The
French Map C3 Chicken and beer feature three- to five-course set menus
Noordeinde 43, 1141 AG prominently on the menu at this are good value for money.
Tel (0299) 654 598 Closed Mon cheerful eatery, where tables at
Delicate French food is served in the back even have their own
two of the prettiest houses in this beer tap. Guests can also opt to DK Choice
fairytale town. The decor meticu- sit on the terrace that overlooks UTRECHT: Badhu
lously matches old-world charm the bustling town square. Arabian Map C4
with modern comforts. One Willem van Noortplein 19, 3514 GK
Michelin star. AMERSFOORT: De Saffraan Tel (030) 272 0444
French Map C4 As befits a restaurant set in a 1920s
OUDERKERK AAN DE Kleine Koppel 3, 3812 PG bathhouse, Badhus interior is
AMSTEL: Lute Tel (033) 448 1753 Closed Sun & inspired by an Arabian hamam.
French Map C3 Mon; SatWed lunch The restaurant is very popular
De Oude Molen 5, 1184 VW A century-old clipper on the Eem and is open all day, serving
Tel (020) 472 2462 Closed Sun; river has been transformed into Arabian breakfast, meze (small
Sat lunch an intimate and stylish restaurant. Arabian dishes to share) for lunch,
Set in an 18th-century gunpowder Alfresco dining on the deck in afternoon chai (high tea Arabian
mill, Lute makes the most of its the summer. style) and evening cocktails in a
location by the Amstel river, with thousand-and-one-nights setting.
sophisticated dishes served in BAARN: Pomodori
the stables, the greenhouse or Italian Map C3
on the terrace. Laandwarsstraat 15, 3743 BS UTRECHT: De Keuken
Tel (035) 541 4013 Closed Sun, van Gastmaal
SANTPOORT: Brasserie DenK MonWed lunch French Map C4
French Map B3 Tiny restaurant in an even tinier Biltstraat 5, 3572 AA
Duin en Kruidbergweg 60, 2071 LE back alley, Klein Fornuis prepares Tel (030) 233 4633 Closed Sun & Mon
Tel (023) 512 1800 classic dishes with an imaginative Just a few tables are centred
This sleek lounge bar and brasserie twist. Weekly changing set around an open kitchen, in
is housed in a Neo-Renaissance menus on offer. which the chef works wonders
castle-like country estate. The bar with sustainable fish, organic
menu offers brasserie food, while HOUTEN: Kasteel meat and regional vegetables.
the brasserie itself has a decent Heemstede Dishes are paired with fine wines.
restaurant menu. French Map C4
Heemsteedseweg 20, 3992 LS VREELAND AAN DE VECHT:
ZANDVOORT: Tijn Akersloot Tel (030) 272 2207 Closed Sun & De Nederlanden
International Map B3 Mon French Map C3
Boulevard Paulus Loot 1B, 2042 AD Housed in a romantic 17th-century Duinkerken 3, 3633 EM
Tel (023) 571 2547 castle, this Michelin-starred restaur- Tel (0294) 232 326 Closed Mon;
At the quiet end of the popular ant has a terrace that seems to Sat lunch
Zandvoort beach, this beach club float in the moat surrounding the Set in a monumental mansion,
castle. Fine dining, great service this boutique hotel and Michelin-
and an excellent wine list. starred restaurant serves refined
French cuisine along with a
LEUSDEN: Bistro Bling 500-bottle wine list. Fantastic
French Map C4 terrace and kitchen garden.
Waarden 25B, 3831 HA
Tel (033) 433 2070 Closed Mon
The interior lives up to the name
with cheap chandeliers, glass South Holland
curtains and baroque mirrors,
but the service is friendly and DELFT: La Tasca
the bistro fare is well done. Mediterranean Map B4
Voldersgracht 13B, 2611 ET
MAARSSEN: Delice Tel (015) 213 8535 Closed Sun
North African Map C4 Dont look for the menu there
Kaatsbaan 25, 3601 EB isnt one. Guests are invited to
Tel (0346) 284 4534 Closed Sun tell the chef what they dont like,
& Mon and then wait as he cooks up
Atmospheric interiors at Badhu, an Arabian North African dishes, great wines, a three- to five-course surprise
restaurant in Utrecht contemporary interiors and a meal for them.
Key to Price Guide see page 406
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 411
LEIDEN: Buddhas
Thai Map B3
Botermarkt 20, 2311 EN
Tel (071) 514 0047
Huge golden Buddha statues line
the walls of this contemporary
restaurant. There is an extensive
menu, and the generous portions
make it good value for money.
DK Choice
NOORDWIJK: Bries
International Map B3
Koningin Astrid Boulevard 102,
2202 BD
Tel (071) 361 7891 Closed winter Tables on the beach at Bries in Noordwijk
Bries is not your average
makeshift beach club, but a Duck, Franois Geurds is now serving equally modern and
well-designed and spacious a master chef in his own right. well-presented food. The
pavilion, fitted out with stylish Vegetarians get their own multi- adjacent bistro is also superb.
furniture. There are loungers course tasting menu. The Chefs
and cabanas, plus massage Table is a coveted spot. THE HAGUE: HanTing Cuisine
and yoga on the beach. The Fusion Map B4
full-fledged menu leans ROTTERDAM: Zeezout Prinsestraat 33, 2513 CA
heavily towards fresh seafood. Seafood Map B4 Tel (070) 362 0828 Closed Mon; lunch
Pick your choice of fish at the Westerkade 11B, 3016 CL Chinese chef Han expertly fuses
Wednesday fish market. Open Tel (010) 436 5049 Closed Mon; traditional French cooking with
in the summer only. Sun lunch oriental flavours, creating dishes
Fabled fish restaurant, Zeezout that please the eye as well as the
is situated in the fishermans palate. The rice-paper lanterns
OOSTVOORNE: Aan Zee quarter of arguably the worlds are pretty too. One Michelin star.
Traditional Map B4 biggest seaport. Fresh fish only,
Strandweg 1, 3233 CW with seasonally changing menus. THE HAGUE: Logisch
Tel (0181) 820 990 Closed Mon & Tue Great in summer, with panoramic Organic Map B4
This striking pavilion in the dunes views over the Maas river. Maliestraat 9, 2514 CA
is truly sustainable: it is built of Tel (070) 363 5259 Closed Sun & Mon
untreated wood, fed by solar and SCHEVENINGEN: At Sea Organic food that is cheerful
wind energy and uses dune water. Mediterranean Map B4 and good value. Choose from
Round off your meal with breath- Heilingweg 138, 2583 DX set menus inspired by the sea,
taking views from the watchtower. Tel (070) 331 7445 Closed Mon & woods or garden. Or opt for
Open for lunch daily from May to Tue; Sat & Sun lunch la carte black Angus steak with
September if the weather is sunny. This sleek restaurant in an old asparagus and mushrooms or
fishing port dishes out delicious steamed sea catfish with herbs.
ROTTERDAM: Bird seafood (but also meat and game)
Italian/Mediterranean Map B4 paired with fine wines. Order THE HAGUE: The Penthouse
Raampoortstraat 26, 3032 AH la carte, go for the five-course International Map B4
Tel (010) 737 1154 Closed Sun & Mon Chefs Choice or choose from Rijswijkseplein 786, 2516 LX
Savour Neapolitan pizza and set menus that change daily. Tel (070) 305 1000
Mediterranean comfort food at the This is probably the poshest spot
restaurant wing of this popular SCHIPLUIDEN: Aan de Zweth in town, although not for those
jazz stage and nightclub. On French Map B4 afraid of heights. Packs a terrace
culinary cinema nights, guests Rotterdamseweg 480, 2636 KB caf, skybar, restaurant and night-
are served exactly what is being Tel (010) 470 4166 Closed Tue; club all in one, with a smashing
eaten on-screen. Set menus only. Sat lunch view from the 42nd floor of
Exclusive restaurant with two a skyscraper.
ROTTERDAM: Snsn Michelin stars and food, prices,
Chinese Map B4 ambience and service to match.
Hang 33, 3011 GG Set in a picturesque house along
Tel (010) 411 5681 Closed Tue the Schie creek. A seat at the Zeeland
A favourite among Chinese locals Chefs Table includes an aperitif
and visitors, Snsn is known aboard the restaurants own sloop. BURGH-HAAMSTEDE:
for the quality of food and Pannekoekenmolen
service. The traditional Sichuan STREEFKERK: De De Graanhalm
fare ranges from delicate lemon Limonadefabriek Bakery Map A4
fish to fiery sizzling beef. Creative Map B4 Burghseweg 53, 4328 LA
Nieuwe Haven 1, 2959 AT Tel (0111) 652 415
ROTTERDAM: FG Restaurant Tel (0184) 689 335 Closed Mon & This pancake house in a working
International Map B4 Tue; OctApr: Sat lunch windmill serves pancakes in
Katoshoek 37b, 3032 AE Despite its name and appearance, 35 sweet and savoury varieties,
Tel (010) 425 0520 Closed Sun & Mon this is not a lemonade factory, such as sugar and syrup, bacon
After years of molecular cooking but a strikingly modern floating and cheese or strawberries and
at Heston Blumenthals The Fat restaurant on the Lek river, whipped cream.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 402
412 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
EINDHOVEN: Smeagol Expect fine dining, a warm, building right on the edge
Argentinian Map C5 intimate atmosphere, friendly of the Maas river. Great looks,
Kerkstraat 10, 5611 GJ service and an excellent wine list. spectacular tastes.
Tel (040) 737 0298
Enjoy juicy steaks straight from MAASBRACHT: Da Vinci SLENAKEN: De La Frontire
the Argentinian pampas. Other French Map D6 South African Map D6
dishes include empanadas and Havenstraat 27, 6051 CS Grensweg 1, 6277 NA
fajitas, garlic gambas and mixed Tel (0475) 465 979 Closed Mon & Tel (043) 457 4302 Closed Mon & Tue
grill. Modern interior. Tue; Sat lunch Experience a slice of South Africa
Not a pizzeria but a French in south Limburg, complete with
EINDHOVEN: Piet Hein Eek restaurant, this place is run by the zebra skins, pottery and colourful
Creative Map C5 only Dutch female chef with two art, Cape wines and dishes like
Halvemaanstraat 28, 5651 BP Michelin stars. Expect fine French biltong pt and Kalahari kudu.
Tel (040) 400 9005 Closed Mon fare with meticulously paired
A beautifully revamped former wines, stiff linen and ditto prices. UBACHSBERG: De Leuf
Philips factory now houses Dutch Creative Map D6
designer Piet Hein Eeks flagship Dalstraat 2, 6367 JS
store, workshop, art gallery and DK Choice Tel (045) 575 0226 Closed Sun &
restaurant. Design lovers paradise. MAASTRICHT: Umami Mon; Sat lunch
Chinese Map D6 This fine-dining restaurant
KAATSHEUVEL: De Molen Stationsstraat 12, 6221 BP with two Michelin stars serves
International Map C4 Tel (043) 351 0006 Closed Mon creatively cooked dishes like sea
Vaartstraat 102, 5171 JG & Tue lunch urchin with avocado, and pigeon
Tel (0416) 530 230 Closed Mon This is one of a small chain of with liquid black pudding.
Expect adventurous Michelin- decidedly modern conceptual
starred cooking at this windmill Chinese eateries (there are six VALKENBURG AAN DE GEUL:
on the edge of a national park. other Umamis around the Tapas BarCelona
The ten-course tasting menu is country), the side project of Spanish Map D6
absolutely amazing. chef Han of Michelin-starred Berkelstraat 6, 6301 CC
restaurant HanTing in The Tel (043) 852 4524 Closed Mon & Tue
NUENEN: Olijf Hague. Michelin-star quality at The menu at this tapas bar ranges
Mediterranean Map C5 bargain prices: choose seven from garlic bread and spicy
Berg 18, 5671 CC dishes in three courses for potatoes to bacon-wrapped dates
Tel (040) 291 3476 Closed Wed; around 20. and pata negra ham. Gaud-
Jul & Aug: also Tue inspired pillars, Andalusian lamps
This restaurant is located in the and a big Osborne bull on the wall.
village where Van Gogh painted MAASTRICHT: SoFa
The Potato Eaters. Serves mostly Mediterranean Map D6 VALKENBURG AAN DE GEUL:
Mediterranean seafood. Affordable Hoge Weerd 6, 6229 AM Aan de Linde
set menus with paired wines. Tel (043) 367 1337 Closed Sun & French Map D6
Mon Jan Deckerstraat 1B, 6301 GX
S-HERTOGENBOSCH: Short for sounds fantastic, SoFa Tel (043) 601 0577
Eetbar Dit is set inside the coach house A brasserie by day and a
International Map C4 of a 15th-century castle on a restaurant in the evening, this
Snellestraat 2426, 5211 EN peninsula in the Maas river. attractive, popular local eatery
Tel (073) 614 1015 Serves sunny Mediterranean food has taken over what was once a
Try a modern take on the old inside and out on the terrace. historic and eclectic casino hotel.
Dutch eetcaf here. Tapas-like
small dishes such as shrimp MAASTRICHT: Beluga WELL: Brienen aan de Maas
croquettes, burgers and rendang Loves You French Map D5
that are meant to be shared. International Map D6 Grotestraat 11, 5855 AK
Plein 1992 12, 6221 JP Tel (0478) 501 967 Closed Mon & Tue
S-HERTOGENBOSCH: De Tel (043) 321 3364 Closed Sun The scenic setting of this Michelin-
Verkadefabriek Visit this star-studded restaurant, starred restaurant along the Maas
International Map C4 both in terms of Michelin stars river is matched by its regionally
Boschdijkstraat 45, 5211 VD (two) and visiting celebrities influenced cooking. The la carte
Tel (073) 681 8170 (many), in a striking modern menu focuses mainly on seafood.
This former cookie factory now
houses a theatre, cinema and
restaurant. Enjoy lunch, tapas and
dinner in an industrial setting.
Limburg
GULPEN: LAtelier
French Map D6
Markt 9, 6271 BD
Tel (043) 450 4490 Closed Tue &
Wed; Sat lunch
LAtelier has to be rated one
of Limburgs best restaurants. Diners at the popular Verkadefabriek in s-Hertogenbosch
For more information on types of restaurants see page 403
416 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
SHOPPING IN THE
NETHERLANDS
Throughout the Netherlands you will find centres are usually on the outskirts of towns
a huge range of shops and markets. Many and sometimes grouped together in retail
towns will have large retail chains, but you parks with parking facilities, child-care
will also find unique independent shops facilities and a cafeteria. Most are open, and
selling clothes, everyday goods and knick- at their busiest, on public holidays. Recent
knacks. Large specialized shops such as fashion items can often be picked up cheaply
furniture stores, factory outlets and garden at street markets and second-hand shops.
Souvenir Dolls
Dutch national costume is hardly worn in the
Netherlands any more, except by souvenir
dolls such as this trio from Volendam.
Miniature Houses
Painted miniature pottery houses (often Delft
blue) are a popular souvenir. Some are Painted Wooden Clogs
designed to be filled with jenever gin, while The traditional wooden clog has come to
others are purely ornamental. symbolize Holland. They can be bought in all
colours and sizes. They can also be ordered
online at www.woodenshoes.com
Dutch
bulbs Red Coral
Necklaces of red
coral are often part
of traditional Gouda
costume in places Pipes
such as Volendam. Long-
However, they also necked clay
add a nice touch pipes from
when worn with Gouda, known
modern clothing. as Grouwenaars
(see p243), have
been made here
since the
beginning of the
17th century and
Flowers make a nice gift for
Bulbs and cut flowers are available all smokers and non-
the year round in the innumerable smokers alike.
flower shops, flower stalls and garden
centres that are easily found
throughout the Netherlands.
SHOPPING IN THE NETHERLANDS 419
Diamonds
Diamonds were cut in
Amsterdam as early as the 16th
century, and the town continues
to be one of the main diamond Diamonds of different colours
Diamond brooch centres of the world. Many
jewellers sell uncut diamonds
and second-hand diamond rings.
Modern Delftware
Modern blue Delftware items decorated with
windmills or other images of Holland are
available in the form of tea sets, sculptures,
vases and even royal Delft ashtrays. When
buying, make sure that there is a certificate of
authenticity (see p32) to go with it.
Delftware mugs
Makkum Pottery
This colourful earthenware,
primarily tiles, plates and
bowls, is still produced
by the Tichelaar factory
(see p33) at Makkum
in Friesland.
420 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Speculaas A distinctive
These biscuits, Edam cheese
flavoured with
cinnamon, cloves
and ginger, are
eaten mainly
around St
Nicholass day.
Edam Cheese
Speculaas The world-famous Edam cheese
(see p178) has an excellent taste
and makes a good souvenir.
Speculaas Board
Mould your own speculaas biscuits Haagse Hopjes
in these biscuit moulds, or use These coffee-flavoured
them for attractive wall ornaments. sweets were first made
at the end of the
Zeeland Butter 18th century at the
Candies inspiration of a Baron
These butter- Hop of The Hague.
flavoured sweets
from Zeeland,
made of glucose
sugar syrup and Hopjes
Butter butter, are
delicious.
candies
Dutch Beer
The Dutch are
renowned beer-
drinkers. In addition
to the three brands
depicted here, there
are countless other
varieties available.
Zaans Mustard
This coarse mustard Jonge grain Sonnema Zwarte Kip
is made at De
jenever herenburg advocaat
Huisman mustard
plant on the Zaanse
Schans (see p179).
Spirits
Gingerbread Renowned Dutch
spirits include jenever, a
kind of gin sold in glass
or stoneware bottles
(there are four basic
kinds, including young
Gingerbread Liquorice Drops and old), berenburg,
This scrumptious bread comes in a The ubiquitous liquorice the Frisian distilled
variety of regional variations, and is drops are sold either herbal drink and
excellent at breakfast or even as a snack salted or sweet. advocaat, made of
especially with a thick layer of butter. brandy and eggs.
SHOPPING IN THE NETHERLANDS 421
DIRECTORY
Antiques Coolsingel 105, Holbein Kunst- en Puccini Bomboni
Rotterdam. Antiekveilingen Staalstraat 17,
Brabanthallen Road Map B4.
Diezekade 2, Jutestraat 31, Rijssen. Amsterdam.
Tel 0800-0818.
s-Hertogenbosch. Road Map D3. Map 5 A2
Sint-Jacobsstraat 1a,
Road Map C4. Tel 0548-541577. Tel 020-6265474.
Utrecht.
Tel 073-6293911. Road Map C4. Singel 184, Amsterdam.
Sothebys
Spring antique fairs. Tel 0800-0818. Map 1 4C
Emmalaan 23,
Le Collectionneur bijenkorf.nl
Amsterdam. Tel 020-4278341.
Damplein 5, Middelburg. Magna Plaza Tel 020-5502200.
Road Map A5. Tea and Coffee
Nieuwez. Voorburgwal
Tel 0118-638595. Veilinghuis de
182, Amsterdam. Droom van Utrecht
Map 1 4C Voorstraat
EH Arins Kappers Schoutenstraat 6, Utrecht.
Tel 020-5703570. Voorstraat 23, Zwolle.
Keizersgracht 208, Road Map C4.
Amsterdam. Road Map D3.
De Passage Tel 030-2316934.
Map 1 B4. Tel 038-4211045.
Passage, The Hague.
Tel 020-6235356. Road Map B4. Geels & Co
(call for appointment) Tel 030-2565165.
Chocolates Koffiebranderij
Emmakade 2 Antiek Huize van Wely Kikkertweg 22, 1521 RG
La Vie
Emmakade 2, Shoppingcentre Beethovenstraat 72, Wormerveer.
Leeuwarden. Lange Viestraat 669, Amsterdam. Road Map B3
Road Map D1. Utrecht. Tel 075-2340747.
Map 4 D5.
Tel 058-2153464. Road Map C4. Tel 020-6622009. Het Klaverblad
Jan de Raad Tel 030-2340088.
Hoofdstraat 88, Hogewoerd 15, Leiden.
Antiquiteiten Noordwijk (ZH).
Hekellaan 10,
Furniture Road Map B3.
Road Map B3. Tel 071-5133655.
s-Hertogenbosch. Studio het Arsenaal Tel 071-3612228.
Road Map C4. Kooltjesbuurt 1, Koffiebrander
Tel 065-3177494. Naarden-Vesting. Leonidas Blanche Dael
TEFAF Maastricht Road Map C3. Stationsplein 34, Wolfstraat 28, Maastricht.
Art and Antiques Fair Tel 035-6941144. Amsterdam. Road Map C6.
(Mar), Maastricht. Van Til Interieur Map 2 E3. Tel 043-3213475.
Road Map D6. Noorderkade 1038, Tel 020-3305261.
tefaf.com Alkmaar. Rembrandthof 55, Simon Levelt koffie-
Road Map B3. Amstelveen. en theehandel
De Tijdspiegel
Nieuwstraat 17, Tel 072-5112760. Road Map B3. Prinsengracht 180,
Middelburg. Villa Arena Tel 026-2320000. Amsterdam.
Road Map A5. Arena Boulevard, Radboudkwartier 4, Map 1 4B
Tel 0118-627799. Amsterdam-Zuidoost. Utrecht. Tel 020-6240823.
Tel 0800-8455227. Road Map C4. Veerstraat 15, Bussum.
Retail Stores and villaarena.nl Road Map C3.
Shopping Centres Tel 030-2110011.
Ds. Jan Scharpstraat Tel 035-6939459.
Auction and Sales
29881, Rotterdam. Zwanestraat 38,
De Bijenkorf Houses
Dam 1, Amsterdam. Road Map B4. Groningen.
Map 2 D3. Christies Tel 010-4048210. Road Map D1.
Tel 0800-0818. Cornelis Schuytstraat 57, Tel 050-3114333.
Gentsestraat 8, Hulst.
Amsterdam.
Ketelstraat 45, Arnhem. Road Map B5. Gierstraat 65, Haarlem.
Map 3 4C
Road Map D4. Tel 0114-321848. Road Map B3.
Tel 020-5755255.
Tel 0800-0818. Oude Kerkstraat 35, Sluis. Tel 023-5311861.
Wagenstraat 32, De Eland De Zon Botermarkt 12, Leiden.
Road Map A5.
The Hague. Loth Gijselman
Tel 0117-760003. Road Map B3.
Road Map B4. Industrieterrein Verrijn
Huevelgalerij 131b, Tel 071-5131159.
Tel 0800-0818. Stuart, Weesperstraat
Piazza 1, Eindhoven. 110112, Diemen. Eindhoven. Vismarkt 21, Utrecht.
Road Map C5. Road Map C3. Road Map C5. Road Map B3.
Tel 0800-0818. Tel 020-6230343. Tel 040-3070000. Tel 030-2314495.
422 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT IN
THE NETHERLANDS
Cultural life in the Netherlands is not confined local VVV (tourist) offices; another option is
to the Randstad. Outside the big cities there the AUB Ticketshop (see p153) in Amsterdam.
is also plenty to do. There is a theatre or a Here you can usually book tickets, or obtain
cultural centre in just about every town, where more information about performances. You
theatre groups, cabaret artists, orchestras and can also get tickets and information via the
rock bands perform. There is also a growing Uitlijn (0900-0191). The major national
number of entertainment complexes, such dailies publish a list of events each week.
as the Miracle Planet Boulevard centre in Most cities publish a weekly uitkrant, or
Enschede. You can find out whats on either by entertainment guide, while the internet
contacting the relevant venue or through the is another source of information.
Dance
The Netherlands is the proud
home of two world-famous
ballet troupes: the Nationale
Ballet and the Nederlands
Dans Theater (NDT). The
Nationale Ballet is based in
the Musiektheater (see p153),
which is commonly known
among Amsterdam theatre-
goers as the Stopera. This
contemporary building can
accommodate 1,600 people
and is a significant centre both
for dance and for opera. The
foyer affords a pleasant view
of the River Amstel.
The Nederlands Dans Dr Anton Philipszaal Music Theater and Lucent Dance Opera Danstheater in The Hague
Theater, based in The
Hague, offers a colourful Film are premiered. The award
programme of modern and Going to the movies continues given to the winning films
contemporary dance and to be a popular pastime in the at this festival is the much-
under the direction of the Netherlands, and you will find coveted Golden Calf statuette.
present choreographers has at least one or more cinemas The IDFA (International
staged sold-out performances in almost every town. Documentary Film Festival
with live music. Introdans of Amsterdam alone has more Amsterdam) is the biggest
Arnhem performs an exciting than 45 cinemas. Foreign- of its kind, held every year in
combination of jazz, flamenco language films are shown in November/December. The
and ethnic dance. The the original language with renowned International Film
countrys biggest choreo- subtitles. The most magnificent Festival in Rotterdam takes
graphers use the Holland cinema in Amsterdam is place each January.
Festival as a platform to Tuschinski, an Art Deco
present their new creations masterpiece built from 1918
to the public. During the 21, with a stylish foyer and Orchestral, Chamber
Internationale Theaterschool generous seating (see and Choral Music
Festival, which also takes place p119). The major premieres The Concertgebouw (see
in June, the proportion of are held here: if you want p124) in Amsterdam is
dance performed is growing. to see famous faces, the traditionally the most
The festival venue is the Nes, best time is Wednesday important venue
one of Amsterdams oldest evenings at the for concert music. The
streets. Julidans is the name cinema entrance. Grote Zaal hall is famous
given to a summer dance There is a list of all films for its acoustics, and
festival in Amsterdam, in which that are showing at the its resident musicians
contemporary dance by box office of every The Golden are the Koninklijk
various international dance cinema, and such lists are Calf statuette Concertgebouworkest.
companies is performed. also displayed in cafs During the summer
and restaurants. Cinema months, the orchestra puts
programmes change every on special concerts.
Thursday, so you will find a list An outstanding orchestra is
of films that are on in the Rotterdams Philharmonisch
Wednesdays evening papers Orkest, whose conductor,
and in Thursdays morning the Czech Jir Belohlvek,
papers. De Filmkrant is a much- was appointed in 2012.
respected movie magazine The orchestra is based in
that is published every De Doelen in Rotterdam.
Monday, which in addition to The Residentie Orkest, whose
the weeks film listings also history goes back almost 100
provides background infor- years, performs regularly at
mation on major films. Major the Zuiderstrandtheater in
film events in the Netherlands The Hague and is not to
are the Nederlands Film be confused with the
Festival, which is held in Muziekcentrum Frits Philips
Noord Nederlands Toneel staging Anton Utrecht in September and in Eindhoven, where the
Chekhovs The Seagull October, where Dutch films Brabants Orkest is based.
424 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
DIRECTORY
Theatres t Spant Orchestra, Westerkerk
Kuyperlaan 3, Bussum. Chamber and Prinsengracht 281,
Appeltheater
Road Map C3.
Choral Music Amsterdam. Map 1 B4.
Duinstraat 68, The Tel 020-624776.
Hague. Road Map B4. Tel 035-6913949. Anton Philipszaal
Tel 070-3502200. Spuiplein 150, The Hague. Opera
Theater aan het Road Map B4.
Arsenaaltheater Vrijthof Tel 070-8800333. Dutch National
Arsenaalplein 1, Vrijthof 47, Maastricht. Opera & Ballet
Concertgebouw
Vlissingen. Road Map A5. Road Map C6. Map 5 B2.
De Vereeniging
Tel 0118-430303. Tel 043-3505555. Keizer Karelplein, Wilminktheater
Bellevue Nijmegen. Road Map D4. Wenninkgaarde 4042,
Toneelschuur Tel 024-3221100. Enschede. Road Map E3.
Leidsekade 90,
Amsterdam. Map 4 D1. Lange Begijnestr 9, Tel 053-4858500.
De Doelen
Tel 020-5305301/02. Haarlem. Road Map B3.
Schouwburgplein 50,
Tel 023-5173910. Rock and Pop
Chass Theater Rotterdam. Road Map B4.
Claudius Prinsenlaan 8, Transformatorhuis Tel 010-2171717. Ahoy
Breda. Road Map B5. Musis Sacrum Ahoyveg 10, Rotterdam.
Klnneplein 2,
Tel 076-5303032. Velperbuitensingel 25, Road Map B4.
Amsterdam. Map 1 A1. Tel 010-2933810.
Arnhem. Road Map D4.
Compagnietheater Tel 020-5860710.
Tel 026-3720720. Heineken Music Hall
Kloveniersburgwal 50,
Arena Boulevard 590,
Amsterdam. Map 2 D5. Musicals and Muziekgebouw Frits
Philips Amsterdam.
Tel 020-5205310. Cabaret Tel 0900-6874242.
Jan van Lieshoutstraat,
Concordia Eindhoven. De Melkweg
AFAS Circustheater
Oude Markt 15, Enschede. Road Map C5. Lijnbaansgracht 234 a,
Circusstraat 4, The Hague.
Road Map E3. Tel 040-2655600. Amsterdam. Map 4 E2.
Tel 053-4300999. Road Map B4.
TivoliVredenburg Tel 020-5318181.
Tel 0900-1353.
De Flint Vredenburgkade 11, Paradiso
Conickstraat 60, Beatrix Theater Utrecht. Road Map C4. Weteringschans 68,
Amersfoort. Jaarbeursplein 6, Utrecht. Tel 030-2314544. Amsterdam. Map 4 3F.
Road Map C4. Road Map C4. Zuiderstrandtheater Tel 020-6264521.
Tel 033-4229229. Houtrustweg 505, The
Tel 0900-1353.
Hague. Road Map B4. Jazz
Frascati
Boom Chicago Tel 070-8800333.
Nes 63, Amsterdam. Alto Jazz Caf
Map 2 D5. Rozengracht 117, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat
Tel 020-6266866. Amsterdam. Map 4 E2. Church Music 115, Amsterdam.
Tel 020-2170400. Domkerk Map 1 B4.
De Harmonie
Domplein, Utrecht. Tel 020-8454380.
Ruiterskwartier 4, Comedy Caf
Road Map C4. Bimhuis
Leeuwarden. IJdok 89, Amsterdam. Tel 030-2310403. Piet Heinkade 3,
Road Map D1. Map 4 E2.
Tel 058-2330233. Engelse Kerk Amsterdam.
Tel 020-7220827. Tel 020-7882188.
Begijnhof 48, Amsterdam.
De Krakeling Map 1 C5.
Nwe Passeerdersstraat 1,
Toomler Bourbon Street
Tel 020-6249665. Leidsekruisstraat 68,
Amsterdam. Map 4 D1. Breitnerstr. 2, Amsterdam.
Map 3 C5. Grote Kerk Amsterdam. Map 4 2E.
Tel 020-6245123.
Van Kinsbergenstraat, Tel 020-6233440.
Tel 020-6707400.
De la Mar Elburg. Road Map D3. Dizzy
Marnixstraat 402, Tel 0525-681520.
Amsterdam. Map 4 D1.
Dance s-Gravendijkwal 127,
Nieuwe Kerk Rotterdam. Road Map B4.
Tel 0900-3352627.
Rotterdamse Dam, Amsterdam. Map 2 Tel 010-4773014.
Orpheus Schouwburg D5. Tel 020-6386909.
De Engelbewaarder
Churchillplein 1, Schouwburgplein 25, Oude Kerk Kloveniersburgwal 59,
Apeldoorn. Rotterdam. Road Map B4. Oudekerksplein 23, Amsterdam. Map 2 5D.
Road Map D3. Amsterdam. Map 2 D4. Tel 020-6253772.
Tel 010-4118110.
Tel 055-5270300. Tel 020-6258284.
De Heeren van
Stadsschouwburg Schouwburg Arnhem
Waalse Kerk Aemstel
Leidseplein 26, Koningsplein 12, Arnhem. Walenplein 157, Thorbeckeplein 5,
Amsterdam. Map 4 E2. Road Map D4. Amsterdam. Amsterdam. Map 5 A2.
Tel 020-6242311. Tel 026-4437343. Tel 020-6232074. Tel 020-6202173.
426 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Duinrell
Nestled in the sandy woodlands
of the Wassenaar region, this
park has rides such as the
Waterspin, toboggan runs,
a frog roller coaster and a
monorail. In summer there are
elaborate shows such as the
Music Laser Light Show. For the
Suspension bridge through the tropical rainforest in Burgers Bush little ones there is a fairytale
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N T H E N E T H E R L A N D S 427
DIRECTORY
Aqua Zoo Friesland Avonturenpark Duinrell Linnaeushof
De Groene Ster 2, 8926 XE Hellendoorn Duinrell 1, 2242 JP Glipperweg 4c, 2104
Leeuwarden. Road Map Luttenbergerweg 22, Wassenaar. Road Map B4. AK Heemstede. Road
D2. Tel 0511-431214. 7447 PB Hellendoorn. Tel 070-5155255. Map B3. Tel 023-5847624.
Open 10am4pm daily Road Map D3. Tel 0548- Open AprSep: 10am
Open Theme park: Apr
(longer in summer). 659159. Open call ahead. 5pm daily (JunAug:
Oct: 10am5pm daily
aquazoo.nl avonturenpark.nl to 6pm).
(mid-JulAug to 6pm). linnaueshof.nl
Archeon Burgers Zoo duinrell.nl
Archeonlaan 1, 2408 ZB Anton van Hooffplein 1, Noordwijk
Alphen a/d Rijn. 6816 SH Arnhem. EcoMare Space Expo
Road Map B4. Road map D4. Tel 026- Ruyslaan 92, 1796 AZ Keplerlaan 3, 2201
Tel 0172-447744. 4424534. Open AprOct: De Koog, Texel. Road AZ Noordwijk.
Open AprOct: 10am 9am7pm daily; Nov Map B2. Tel 0222-317741. Tel 071-3646489.
Open 10am5pm
5pm Mon, Wed & Sat, Mar: 9am5pm daily. Open 9:30am5pm daily.
TueSun (also Mon
10am4pm Tue, Thu & Fri. burgerszoo.nl ecomare.nl
in school hols).
archeon.nl
Dolfinarium De Efteling spaceexpo.nl
Het Arsenaal Harderwijk Europalaan 1, 5171
Arsenaalplein 7, 4381 BL Strandboulevard Oost 1, KW Kaatsheuvel.
Vlissingen. Road Map A5. 3841 AB Harderwijk. Road Map C4. Tel 0416-
Tel 0118-415400. Road Map C3. Tel 0341-
537777. Open AprOct:
467467 Open mid-Feb
Open AprOct: 10am 10am6pm daily (later in
Jun & SepOct: 10am
7pm daily; mid-FebMar: 5pm daily; JulAug: summer). Winter Efteling:
timings vary, call ahead. 10am6pm daily. open around Christmas.
arsenaal.com dolfinarium.nl efteling.com
428 TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Sports Holidays
With its abundance of water, the Netherlands lends itself to all
kinds of watersports such as boating, sailing and canoeing;
however, there are also plenty of opportunities for sporting
activities on dry land, whether you want to kick a ball about
or play golf or tennis, or even go riding. Most VVV-gidsen
(see p432) tell you where there are golf courses and tennis
courts in the locality, and they give the addresses of angling
clubs, stables, boatyards, sailing schools and so on.
Ramblers in the Heuvelrug
in Utrecht
are also used by
many people. Canoeing is another popular
You can obtain watersport in the Netherlands.
information on Dozens of round trips in various
sailing and surfing craft organized in lakes, rivers
organizations at and the sea are also available.
institutions such The local VVV tourist office will
as the Commissie be able to direct you further.
Watersport
Canoeists enjoying themselves on the water Opleidingen
(watersports training Rambling and Cycling
Watersports commission) and the ANWB. Ramblers guides and maps can
The favourite places in the Surfers will find plenty to do on be obtained in many places,
Netherlands for watersports are the North Sea and IJsselmeer including the VVV, ANWB and
the Frisian seas, the coastal coast (surfing beaches, equip bookshops. The VVV also
lakes, the Plassengebied ment hire), and it is also possible provides information on
(lakelands), the southwest river to surf on many inland waters, walking tours and local events.
delta, and the lakes of the including the Reenwijkse The Er op Uit! booklet published
Vechtplassen, the Maasplassen, Plassen, the Randmeren and by the Dutch Railways contains
the IJsselmeer and, of course, the Frisian lakes. For further rambling routes from one
the North Sea. Everywhere there information on sailing, boating station to another. The majority
are abundant marinas and and windsurfing, ask at the of them are 15 to 20 km (9 to 12
watersports centres, often with Koninklijk Nederlands miles), though some twoday
equipment for hire. The ANWB Watersport Verbond (royal hikes are also described. You will
publishes the Wateralmanakken, watersports association). find route maps at the station
available at ANWB and VVV Good places for diving include where the hike begins. Around
offices and in bookshops, the Oosterschelde and 30 longdistance hiking trails
which give details of sailing Grevelingenmeer; for more have been marked out in the
regulations, bridge and lock information apply to the Netherlands. These routes,
opening times, port information Dutch underwatersports which are at least 100 km (62
and so on. The ANWB/VVV association, the Nederlandse miles) in length, follow mainly
waterkaarten (navigation charts) Onderwatersport Bond. unmetalled tracks. A popular
Sailing
Sailing courses suitable for all ages and experience levels are widely available along the Dutch
coast for practically all types of vessel. Taking lessons at a CWO registered sailing school will
give you an internationally recognized CWO sailing certificate. More experienced sailors
can explore the North Sea, the IJsselmeer (watch out for strong winds), the Waddenzee
(where you have to watch the shallows) or the Westerschelde (which has strong
tidal currents). However, you can
also go for a more relaxing
experience on the Vinkeveense
Plassen lakes. Cruises are also
widely available. Hollands
Glorie (tel. 0104156600)
offers cruises on traditional
sailing craft on waterways
such as the IJsselmeer, the
Waddenzee and the Frisian lakes.
Yachting on the Oosterschelde Sailing dinghy
S P O R T S H O L I D AY S 429
DIRECTORY
Watersports
Commissie Watersport
Opleidingen (CWO)
t Breukeleveensemeentje 4,
1231 LM Loosdrecht.
Tel 085-4015966.
Koninklijk Nederlands
Watersport Verbond
Wattbaan 31-49, 3439 ML
Nieuwegein.
Tel 030-7513700.
Nederlandse Onder
Golfers on the Lauswolt Estate in Friesland watersport Bond
Landjuweel 62,
hiking trail is the Pieterpad Fishing 3905 PH Veenendaal.
(LAW 9), stretching 480 km Fishing is a popular sport in Tel 0318-559347.
(300 miles) from Pieterburen the Netherlands. In the inland
in Groningen to the Sint- waterways you can angle for Rambling and Cycling
Pietersberg at Maastricht. bream, carp and pike, while Cycletours
Wandelplatform-LAW flatfish and mackerel can be Gyroscoopweg 104, 1042 AX
publishes guides to the routes, caught along the coast and in Amsterdam.
with and without accommo- the sea. Local angling associ- Tel 020-5218400.
dation details. Many natural areas ations will give you
are criss-crossed by footpaths information on when and Fietsvakantiewinkel
and cycle tracks, among them where to fish. Dont forget to fietsvkantiewinkel.nl
the Nationaal Park De Hoge obtain a fishing permit (which Koninklijke Wandel Bond
Veluwe (see p343). You can find is compulsory for inland Nederland (KWBN)
out about accessibility of various waters). The permits are PO Box 1020, 6501 BA Nijmegen.
areas and about enjoyable available at VVVs or angling Tel 024-3655575.
routes or excursions at VVV or associations. Sometimes you
NTFU
ANWB tourist information offices, also need a permit for a Postbus 326,
at the Staatsbosbeheer (forestry particular lake or river. Along 3900 AH Veenendaal.
commission) (www.staats- the coast, angling trips are Tel 0318-581300.
bosbeheer.nl) or the Vereniging organized on the North Sea
Natuurmonumenten (see p264). and in the Waddenzee. Stichting Landelijk
For details on cycling, see Fietsplatform
pages 4489. Postbus 846, 3800 AV Amersfoort.
Horse Riding Tel 033-4653656.
There are many stables WandelplatformLAW
Golf and Tennis where you can hire ponies Postbus 846, 3800 AV Amersfoort.
The Netherlands has some 160 for pony-trekking. Some Tel 033-4653660.
golfing clubs, all members of stables hire out horses only wandelnet.nl
the Nederlandse Golf Federatie if you have a riding permit or
(NGF). Many clubs also provide if you are on a guided tour Golf
opportunities for (information is
NGF
non-members to available from the
Postbus 8585, 3503 RN Utrecht.
play, although SVR). For some
Tel 030-2426370.
some may require nature reserves
proof of golfing which allow Fishing
proficiency. Many riding you will
of them also offer Riding on Ameland need to get a Sportvisserij Nederland
training courses. riding permit Postbus 162, 3720 AD Bilthoven.
Golf courses from the organization Tel 030-6058400.
in the Netherlands are in managing the area, and sportvisserijnederland.nl
dunelands, woodland you will have to keep to the
and polderland. bridleways. Beach riding is an Horse Riding
In many areas you will find unforgettable experience, SVR
tennis clubs with outdoor and but keep an eye on the signs, De Beek 125, 3852 PL Ermelo.
indoor courts. Most bungalow because some sections of Tel 088-0224399.
parks have tennis courts for beach especially in summer veiligpaardrijden.nl
the use of residents. are closed to horses.
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
The Netherlands is relatively small and has a dykes means that holidaymakers have plenty
dense road and motorway network, with of opportunity to explore the countryside by
good public transport, so getting around is bicycle (see pp4489) or by boat (see p447).
quick and easy. Whether you are going to Another option is to take a trip by steam
Amsterdam, the Veluwe, Maastricht or train. The best place to find out whats
Zandvoort, you can get there from anywhere available in your area and in the
in the country very quickly by car or by train. country as a whole is the local VVV
The flat landscape with its many canals and (tourist information) office.
Entertainment
Many VVV-gidsen guides have
an annual review of events
in a particular region or
province. For up-to-date
information on events,
exhibitions, performances
and films, it is worth looking
in the entertainment
supplements issued by
daily papers, or ask at the
local VVV office. Plays,
concerts, special events
and festivals are usually
advertised on billboards or
VVV and ANWB offices, which often share the same premises in cafs. Special regional and
local entertainment guides
Tourist Information and motoring guides, tickets, are also a good source of
The best source of information camping guides and road information; for example,
for tourists is the local or atlases. ANWB members have the monthly Uitkrant tells
regional VVV office. Many access to specialized you whats on in Amsterdam
towns and places of interest membership information in the way of the performing
have VVV offices where you about various subjects and arts, while the weekly Uitloper
can drop in and ask for advice holiday offers. In many cases is Utrechts entertainment
and brochures about the VVV and the guide. These guides are
places of interest, ANWB share the distributed at many sites
local events, same premises. free of charge.
walks, cycle If you are travel- Tickets for concerts and
routes and ANWB logo ling to the events are available not
excursions in the Netherlands only at the box office of
town or region. In addition, from abroad you can obtain the venue itself but also
they can provide maps and information in advance from via the national Ticket
books about other parts of the the Netherlands Board of Service and at VVV offices.
Netherlands. The VVV-gidsen Tourism (NBT) in your Some towns also have their
series in Dutch is very practical, own country. own booking bureau; for
with information and facts instance, in Amsterdam you
about individual provinces can book your tickets at the
and regions. Language AUB (see p150).
At VVVs you can also book The Dutch have been linguists
domestic excursions, hotels, for centuries, and most students
short breaks and theatre tickets learn English, some German and
anywhere in the country. French. English is certainly very
Annual museum cards and CJPs widely and fluently spoken in
are also on sale here. Smaller Amsterdam. However, its always
VVV outlets, although providing appreciated if you can handle a
comprehensive information few niceties: greeting a Dutch
about their local area, do not person with Dag (good day),
provide other services. for example, before asking
ANWB offices in the whether they speak English. The
Netherlands also have a Phrase Book on pages 4712 is a Revellers at a music festival
selection of cycling, rambling useful place to start. in Amsterdam
The canal with the Old Church Tower of Delft in the background
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 433
DIRECTORY
Tourist Netherland Board VVV Utrecht Travellers with
Information of Tourism Domplein 9. Disabilities
PO Box 63470, 2502 JL Tel 030-2360004. Bureau Assistentie-
ANWB Main Office The Hague.
verlening
Tel 070-370 5705.
Wassenaarseweg 220, Entertainment Gehandicapten
holland.com
2596 EC avg.ns.nl
The Hague. VVV The Hague Ticket Service
Spui 68. Tel 070-3618860. Tel 0900-3001250.
Tel 088-2692222.
VVV Maastricht ticketmaster.nl
I Amsterdam Kleine Staat 1.
Museum Card
Visitor Centre Tel 043-3252121.
Stationsplein 10, 1012 AB
VVV Rotterdam Stichting
Amsterdam. Coolsingel 195. Museumjaarkaart
Tel 020-7026000. Tel 010-7900185. museumkaart.nl
434 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Tipping
Taxi drivers expect a tip of
around 10 per cent. Although
a service charge is included on
restaurant bills, it is customary
to round the bill up slightly
(see p403).
In hotels you may if you
like leave something for the
chambermaid after a longer
stay, even though it is not
generally the rule.
DIRECTORY
Embassies and Germany New Zealand Customs Helpline
Consulates Embassy: Embassy: Eisenhowerlaan
Tel 0800-0143.
Groot Hertoginnelaan 77N, 2517 KK The Hague.
Australia Open 8am8pm Mon
1820, 2517 EG The Hague. Tel 070-3469324.
Embassy: Carnegielaan 4, Thu, 8am5pm Fri.
Tel 070-3420600. Fax 070-3632983.
2517 KH The Hague.
niederlande.diplo.de nzembassy.com/ Travel Safety
Tel 070-3108200.
netherlands.
Consulate: netherlands Advice
Honthorststraat 3638,
embassy.gov.au South Africa Australia
1071 DG Amsterdam.
Embassy: Wassenaarseweg dfat.gov.au
Belgium Tel 020-5747700.
40, 2596 CJ The Hague. smartraveller.gov.au
Embassy: Johan van United Kingdom
Oldenbarneveltlaan 11, Tel 070-3924501. United Kingdom
Embassy:
2582 NE The Hague. zuidafrika.nl gov.uk/foreign-
Lange Voorhout 10,
Tel 070-3123456. travel-advice
2514 ED The Hague. United States
Canada Tel 070-4270427. Embassy: Lange Voorhout United States
ukinnl.fco.gov.uk 102, 2514 EJ The Hague. travel.state.gov
Embassy: Sophialaan 7,
2514 JP The Hague. Consulate General: Tel 070-3102209.
Tel 070-3111600. Koningslaan 44, thehague.
canada.nl 1075 AE Amsterdam. usembassy.gov
Tel 020-6764343. Consulate: Museumplein
France
Embassy: Anna Ireland 19, 1071 DJ Amsterdam.
Paulownastraat 76, Embassy: Tel 020-5755309.
2518 BJ The Hague. Scheveningseweg 112, Fax 020-5755310.
Tel 070-3125800. 2584 AE The Hague. amsterdam.
ambafrance-nl.org Tel 070-3630993/4. usconsulate.gov
436 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
in EU countries. It is also a
good idea to purchase
comprehensive medical
insurance if it is not included
in your travel insurance.
Mosquitoes
Attracted by the canals,
mosquitoes can be a real
irritant. Residents and regular
summer visitors deal with them
in various ways. Burning coils,
ultra-violet tubes, mosquito
nets, repellent sprays and anti-
histamine creams and tablets
are available from large A crowded street festival: a place to be wary of pickpockets
pharmacies and supermarkets.
inform the station first. Small vervoer (public transport) in
stations keep lost property for the Yellow Pages). Schiphol
Lost Property one day. After that they are Airport has a special lost
If you lose any valuables, taken to the nearest main property number.
you can check at the station, and finally to the
police station to see Central Lost Property
whether anyone has Office (Centraal Bureau Drugs
handed them in. Local Gevonden Voorwerpen) in Although the use of soft drugs
police stations usually Utrecht. By filling in a is officially illegal in the
keep articles that have search form (available at Netherlands, the police will not
been handed in before railway stations), you can take action if you have a small
passing them on to describe the items you quantity of hashish or marijuana
the central police Emergency have lost. If you lose in your possession. It is worth
station for the district. room sign something on a bus, remembering that not every
If you lose your passport tram or metro, you restaurant or caf owner will take
you must also inform your should contact the office of the kindly to tourists lighting up on
consulate (see p435) or embassy. local or regional transport the premises. People caught with
If you lose something on a train, organization (look for openbaar hard drugs will be prosecuted.
DIRECTORY
Emergency Hospitals in The Hague: Schiphol Lost
Numbers Major Cities Bronovo Hospital Property
Bronovolaan 5. Tel 0900-0141/020-
Ambulance, Fire Amsterdam: Tel 070-3124141. 7940800.
Brigade, Police Academisch Medisch
MCH Hospital
Tel 112. (for the deaf Centrum Westeinde
Roadside
and hard of hearing) Meibergdreef 9. Lijnbaan 32.
Assistance
Tel 0800-8112. Tel 020-5669111. Tel 070-3302000. ANWB Wegenwacht
OLVG, Locatie West Rotterdam: Erasmus Tel 088-269-2888
Safety
Jan Tooropstraat 164. Medisch Centrum (toll-free).
Police Tel 020-5108911. s-Gravendijkwal 230,
Non-urgent matters: 3015 CE Rotterdam.
Onze Lieve Vrouwe
Tel 0900-8844 Tel 010-7040704
Gasthuis (OLVG)
(you will be connected Utrecht:
Oosterpark 9, 1091 AC
to the nearest police Academisch Hospital
Amsterdam.
station). For the deaf and Utrecht
Tel 020-5999111.
hard of hearing Heidelberglaan 100.
Tel 0900-1844. Slotervaart Tel 088-7555555.
Police Amsterdam- Hospital
Amstelland Louwesweg 6. Lost Property
Tel 020-5129333.
Head office: Central Lost
Elandsgracht 117, VU Medisch Centrum Property Office
1016 TT Amsterdam. De Boelelaan 1117. verlorenof
Tel 0900-8844. Tel 020-4444444. gevonden.nl
438 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Bank Opening Hours These bureaux can still be found card or chipknip/chipper (top-up
Banks are generally open on at the now unguarded border cards available from Dutch
Mondays to Fridays from 9am crossing points, at Amsterdam banks or the Postbank). Most
to 4 or 5pm. Some banks Schiphol Airport and at major payphones (see p440) accept
remain open longer on railway stations. Most GWK credit cards for calls.
koopavond, or shopping bureaux are open daily and All major credit cards
evening, often a Thursday. have extended opening hours. are widely accepted in the
Netherlands and, as elsewhere in
Europe, have superseded many
cash transactions, even though
the Dutch have proved to be a
little reluctant to abandon cash
as compared to, for example, the
British. Almost all hotels and
hostels gladly accept credit card
payments, but the position is
more varied in restaurants. Clarify
the situation before the bill
arrives. It is normal to pay cash in
bars, and taxi drivers would also
not want to receive credit card
payments. One advantage of
using a credit card is that if a
purchase is contested, the credit
GWK (grenswisselkantoor), the Netherlands official exchange bureau card company will usually take
up the matter on your behalf.
Changing Money Bank and Credit Cards Depending on the credit card,
Foreign currency can be You can use your bank card to there are generally some
changed at banks, post offices withdraw money at any Dutch attached insurances as well.
and American Express offices. A bank displaying your cards logo,
small commission is sometimes but usually there is a substantial
charged on these transactions. commission charge. You can The History of
In small bureaux de change also use bank cards to withdraw Dutch Currency
(often open outside business cash at ATMs 24 hours a day. Before the introduction of the
hours), located throughout the These machines usually also guilder, the Dutch national
major cities and in larger towns, accept Eurocard/MasterCard, currency unit before the euro,
you can exchange money from American Express, Diners Club duiten, stuivers, rijders, schellings
non-Eurozone countries, though and Visa cards. When a foreign and ducats made out of various
often at unfavourable rates. card is inserted, most ATMs will metals were used. Until 1847,
The Netherlands official offer a choice of languages, and there was a double standard
bureaux de change, GWK so should be simple to use. where the value of the coin was
(grenswisselkantoor), is a ATMs are plentiful and can be equal to the value of the gold or
privatized state enterprise, found outside post offices, silver in it. Silver coins were
which gives reasonable rates banks and GWK offices, and minted until 1967, when nickel
of exchange and charges within main railway stations. or bronze coins were minted.
relatively low commissions, as Shops, restaurants and hotels Gold and silver coins from
well as providing various other post signs stating whether you earlier centuries are now
services for travellers. can pay by credit card, switch valuable collectors items.
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 439
The Euro members using the euro as sole of architectural structures and
The euro () is the common official currency are known as the monuments. The coins, however,
currency of the European Union Eurozone. A number of EU have one side identical (the value
(EU). It went into general members have opted out of side) and one side with an image
circulation on 1 January 2002, joining this common currency. unique to each country. Both
initially for 12 participating Euro notes are identical notes and coins are exchangeable
countries. The Netherlands was throughout the Eurozone in each of the participating
one of those 12 countries. EU countries, each including designs euro countries.
Bank Notes
Euro bank notes have seven denom
inations. The 5 note (grey in colour) is
the smallest, followed by the 10 note
(pink), 20 note (blue), 50 note
(orange), 100 note (green), 200 note
(yellow) and 500 note (purple).
All notes show the 12 stars of the
European Union. Not all businesses
in the Netherlands accept the 200 5 note
and 500 notes.
10 note
20 note
50 note
100 note
200 note
500 note
2 coin 1 coin
50 cents 20 cents 10 cents
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: 2 and 1;
50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents and
1 cent. The 2 and 1 coins are silver and gold in
colour; cent coins are gold or bronze. Prices are
rounded off to the nearest 5 cents; the 2 and
1cent coins are no longer in use. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
440 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Sending Mail
Most TNT postboxes have
two slots. The right slot is
for local mail (post codes
are given above the slot),
the left one is for other
destinations. A sign on the
Internet access at OBA (Amsterdam Public Library) box indicates when the mail
is collected (a red sign means
Internet in English about cultural 5pm or 6pm, a blue board
Faster than a letter and events in the city, plus useful means 7pm). There is no
cheaper than a phone call, information on things like Saturday mail collection.
sending and receiving email doctors and dentists. It also Postcards and letters
has never been easier or has information for expats weighing less than 20 g
more convenient. As most living in the city. Time Out (1 oz) cost 0.73 (or one
people in the Netherlands Amsterdam is a monthly Nederland 1 stamp) to
have either ADSL or a cable listings magazine, also in send to destinations within
connection at home, the English, aimed at tourists the Netherlands; those
number of internet cafs has and available from newsagents sent to European destinations
decreased. Also, more and in the city centre of the capital. cost 1.25, or one
more hotels offer Wi-Fi for Apart from comprehensive International 1 stamp;
guests with laptops, and listings about whats on, it also these new standard stamps
while this is not always free, offers reviews and features. are widely available in small
rates for internet use have shops, for example those
fallen dramatically over the selling postcards. For heavier
last decade. It is better to Postal Services letters or to post to other
check before using Wi-Fi to Post offices in the Netherlands parts of the world, visit a
avoid ending up paying a can be recognized by the TNT post office but be prepared
heavy bill. logo. In addition to buying for queues. Most post offices
However, in most tourist stamps, sending telegrams are open from 9am to 5pm
areas youll still find plenty of and sending mail, you can also weekdays; some also open
places to read and send email. change money and travellers on Saturdays until 1pm.
Most are bars, cafs and coffee cheques, make phone calls Postcards and letters
(smoking) shops, offering PCs and send faxes. Larger post weighing less than 20 g
with internet services. offices also have photocopy (1 oz) to destinations within
Opening hours vary, but cafs services and sell stationery. Europe are sent by priority
are often open late into the Smaller municipalities some- mail. For other international
night. Not all offer headsets, so times have only a sub post mail which you want to
using Skype or other VoIPs to office (in a supermarket, for send priority, pay extra for
make cheap phone calls is not example), providing basic a priority sticker at the post
always possible. services. There are no longer office. Important documents
A recent development is post offices in most villages. may be sent by insured or
modern and trendy coffee registered mail. Urgent
bar franchises, like Coffee mail can be sent by TNTs
Company and Bagel and Slot for all other courier service.
destinations Slot for
Beans, offering Wi-Fi for
local destinations
customers who bring their DIRECTORY
laptop. You either buy minutes
or go online for a limited TNT
time for each beverage you Tel 0800-1234 (customer
order, using the code on your service for domestic and
receipt to gain access. international deliveries).
Visitors to Amsterdam will tnt.com/express/nl_nl/
find www.iamsterdam.com
site/home.html
worth a look. Financed by
Amsterdam city council, it
offers listings and reviews Dutch TNT postbox
442 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Almost every major European airport has served by international trains, including the
direct flights to Schiphol, but this modern Thalys, the high-speed train from Paris.
international airport southwest of The countrys comprehensive road
Amsterdam also has direct connections network makes the Netherlands ideal for
with other airports around the world, exploring by car or by public transport
including many in the United States. The (see pp4467). Many packages and special-
Netherlands also has efficient rail links with interest holidays are on offer, so its worth
neighbouring countries. Major stations are shopping around.
Schiphol Airport
Schiphol has only one terminal. The airport signs are colour-coded,
with yellow signs indicating transfer desks and gates, green ones
amenities such as coffee bars, restaurants and shops. At Schiphol Plaza
you can find shops, book hotels, hire a car or buy a railway ticket.
See Buy Fly
Beneath it are the platforms of Schiphol railway station. From the car
duty-free shops
park there are transfer buses to take you to the terminal. The long-stay
car park is served by an automatic bus, the Parking Hopper, that takes Bar
F2/F9
you to the transfer bus. Gate E
Lounge Centre
Gate F
Lounge West
Gate G
Departures
Departures Railway tickets
Gate E
To the trains
Arrivals
Gate F
Hotel
reservations Arrivals
Gate G
SCHIPHOL
PLAZA
0 metres 100
Getting to and
from Schiphol
Every major city in the
Netherlands can be reached
by train from Schiphol Station.
The journey to Amsterdam
Centraal Station takes 20
minutes. Schiphol is also on
the night-train network of
the Western Netherlands (see
p446). In addition, the airport
has good bus connections
with many towns. KLM runs a
bus ser vice (the KLM Hotel
Shuttle), linking the airport
Planes at Amsterdam Schiphol Airport with some 20 hotels in central
and south Amsterdam. There
Shopping low See Buy Fly prices; only are also abundant taxis waiting
If you are leaving the country by alcohol and tobacco is sold here at the airport. Ask for a quote
plane, you will find the large See at the same price as in local before getting in, as tourists
Buy Fly shopping centre when shops. Passengers to destinations are often overcharged.
you leave customs control. outside the EU can still purchase
Although travellers to other EU duty-free alcohol and tobacco.
member states are not permitted The centrally located Schiphol
to buy duty-free goods at the Plaza is open to everyone, but
airport (see p434), it is still possible the goods stocked here are not
to find some bargains with the sold at See Buy Fly prices.
Terminal
D42/D57
D62/D87 D12/D31
Entrance
C3/C16
Lounge South
E2/E13
Lounge Center D2/D8
Airline desks
Gate D
Key
Public access areas
By Rail
The Netherlands can easily be
reached by train from most
European countries, although
visitors from further afield may
have to change trains several
times en route. Eurostar runs
from London via the Channel
Tunnel to Brussels, where you
change for Amsterdam.
There are direct trains from a
number of European stations.
For example, Brussels, Paris,
Berlin, Zurich, Vienna and
(seasonally) Milan have direct
rail links to Amsterdam Ferries serve Rotterdam, Hook of Holland and IJmuiden
Centraal Station (CS) and
Utrecht CS. From Brussels and travel on the national rail Seaways serves Newcastle
from Antwerp there are trains networks of any three to five and IJmuiden. Other
to Amsterdam all day, bordering countries out of 18 convenient ferry ports for
stopping at Roosendaal, European nations, including visitors from Great Britain are
Rotterdam, The Hague and the Netherlands. Calais and Boulogne (from
Schiphol, including five Folkestone and Dover) in
journeys daily by the Thalys France. Crossing times by
high-speed train from Paris. By Coach ferry range from 16 hours
Many other towns, For travellers from many (NewcastleIJmuiden) to 7590
particularly those in the border European countries the minutes (DoverCalais). Ticket
regions of Belgium and the cheapest way to reach the prices depend on the speed of
Netherlands, can easily be Netherlands is by coach. Most crossing. In summer it is a good
reached by train. Hook of long-distance coaches have idea to book in advance.
Holland is connected by trains toilets and make regular stops.
which connect with ferries In summer in particular there
from the UK port of Harwich. are large numbers of Motoring in
coaches from Holland
other countries The good
Special Tickets serving a system of
Tourists from other EU whole range of roads in the
countries can purchase towns in the Netherlands
cards in their countries that Netherlands. A Eurolines coach makes all
will entitle them to special Eurolines offers a very parts of the country
reductions. An Interrail card extensive network of coach easy to reach by car. Beware,
for people aged 26 and connections. It has coaches however, in the Randstad
under, along with a slightly running from many European region: you may have to put up
dearer version for the cities to the Netherlands at with traffic jams during the
over-26s, allows travellers to least once per week. Dozens rush hour.
use the entire European rail of points in the Netherlands To drive in the Netherlands
network at a discount. Eurail (depending on the point of you need to have a valid
Selectpass offers unlimited departure and route) are national driving licence. In
served by them. From Brussels addition, if in your own car,
and Antwerp there are coaches you will need to have your
to places such as Breda, vehicle log book and insurance
Rotterdam, The Hague, papers with you.
Utrecht and Amsterdam. Roads in the Netherlands are
divided into three categories.
Provincial roads are designated
Ferries with the letter N before the
A number of ferry companies road number, national
serve routes between Britain motorways are designated
and the Netherlands. These with an A before the number
include P&O Ferries that sail and international highways
between Hull and Rotterdam/ have the letter E before the
Europoort, while Stena Line number. All Dutch motorways
sails between Harwich and are equipped with emergency
The Thalys high-speed train Hook of Holland. DFDS telephones from which
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 445
motorists can call the ANWB way to buses that are leaving Car Hire
road assistance service (see bus stops. To hire a car you need to be at
p436) if their car breaks down. Finding somewhere to least 21 years old and have a
A non-member can pay for park is often a problem in valid driving licence. Some hire
the ANWBs services, or the cities. As clamping is companies also require at least
become a temporary ANWB prevalent and theft rife, it is one years driving experience.
member. Unless otherwise often best to look for a car The main international car-hire
signposted, the park rather than to try to companies such as Avis,
maximum speed for find street parking. When Budget, Europcar and Hertz
cars in Holland is 120 you enter a car park, take have offices at Schiphol and in
km/h (75 mph) on a ticket from the all major cities. Local car-hire
motorways, 100 km/h machine at the barrier, firms are often substantially
(62 mph) on major and pay at the cheaper. When hiring a car
roads, 80 km/h (50 mph) payment machine without a credit card, you may
on secondary roads and before leaving. Avoid have to pay a hefty deposit.
50 km/h (30 mph) in built- out-of-order street
up areas. At unmarked meters as you could get
junctions, give way to fined or your car could
traffic coming from the be clamped. You may not
left, except for trams, which park on yellow lines, and
always have right of way on yellow broken lines
(except when you are you may not park even
driving along a road to load or unload. If you
which has right of way). stop on a blue line, you
In built-up areas will need to have A bike hooked on a car, an easy way of
motorists must give Emergency phone a parking disc. taking your bike along
DIRECTORY
Schiphol Airport Delta Air Lines Bus Companies By Car
Tel 020-7219128. ANWB
Information and Eurolines Nederland
delta-air.com Tel 088-2692222.
services Stationsplein 3
easyJet (Bus station, next to
Tel 0900-0141 Car Hire Firms
Amsterdam-Duivendrecht at Schiphol
schiphol.nl Tel 0900-0401048 (NL).
train station).
easyjet.com AVIS
Tel 0880-761700.
Regional Airports Tel 088-2847620.
KLM & KLM eurolines.nl
Eindhoven Airport Cityhopper Budget
Rokin 38A, 1012 KT
Tel 088-2847620.
Tel 0900-9505. Tel 020-4747747. Amsterdam.
Tel 0880-761700. Europcar
Groningen Airport klm.nl
Tel 020-3164190.
Eelde Transavia Eurolines (UK)
Hertz
Tel 050-3097070 Tel 08717-818177 (UK). Tel 020-5020240.
Tel 0900-0737.
nationalexpress.
Maastricht Aachen transavia.com
co.uk
Airport United Airlines
Tel 043-3589898. Tel 020-3469381.
Ferries
Rotterdam Airport united.com DFDS Seaways
Tel 010-4463444. Tel 0871-5229955.
Railways dfdsseaways.co.uk
Airlines P&O North
NS International
Sea Ferries
Aer Lingus Support
Tel 0800-1300030.
Tel 0900-2658207. Tel 030-2300023.
poferries.com
aerlingus.com
Public transport Stena Line BV
British Airways travel information Stationsweg 10, 3151 HS.
Tel 020-3469389. Tel 0900-9292. Tel 0174-389333.
ba.com 9292.nl stenaline.co.uk
446 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Public Transport
The Netherlands has a comprehensive and efficient
public transport system. Major cities can be easily
reached by train, while towns and villages are served
by local buses as well as a number of trains. The
Randstad in particular gets fairly snarled up in the DierenApeldoorn steam train
morning and evening rush hour. If you need to travel
at that time, the best thing to do is to leave the car Steam Trains
and take the train. There are many places in the
Netherlands where you can
take a ride in a steam train.
the rear door is for boarding There is, for example, the
only. Tram stops are normally 22-km (14-mile) Dieren
announced, but if you arent Apeldoorn line, the 16-km
sure where to get off, you can (10-mile) KerkradeSchin
always ask the driver to call out op Geul, (the million line,
the stop. see p372), the 15.5-km (9.5-
mile) GoesOudelande,
around the Valkenburgse
Long-distance buses cover an expanding By Train Meer lake and through
the Hoogoventerrein at
number of routes The Dutch national railway
IJmuiden (21 km/13 miles,
company, Nederlandse departing from Beverwijk
By Bus Spoorwegen, or simply NS, Station, see p192). A steam
The Netherlands has a good runs a busy network which is train runs the 20 km
network of local buses and considered one of the best in (12 miles) between Hoorn
inter-city coaches. Booklets the world. Trains are clean and and Medemblik in summer
are available giving detailed generally run on time, and (see p182). Check with the VVV,
information on routes, time- tickets are reasonably priced. as schedules vary.
tables and fares, although it is Timetables are displayed on
also possible to get information yellow boards in stations. Rail
from Openbaar Vervoer tickets are available at ticket transport are also available.
Reisinformatie (0900-9292). offices, Wizzl station shops For information it is best to
Operated by a number of and from ticket machines in ask at ticket offices, or
companies, long-distance buses stations, or, with a substantial telephone 0900-9292.
are very comfortable. They supplement, from the Many railways in Friesland,
usually follow direct routes conductor aboard the train. Groningen and the Achterhoek
between places and stop less Dutch Railways has a wide are run by NordNed and Syntus.
frequently than local buses variety of fare discounts on offer, NS cards are also valid on
(streekbussen). In the evenings including Railrunner tickets for these lines. Night trains run on
they do not operate as late as children, and other offers for the Utrecht CS-Amsterdam
the local buses. The timetables people regularly using the same CS-Schiphol-Leiden Centraal-
for buses are based on the route. Combined season tickets The Hague CS-Delft-Rotterdam
railway timetable. Long-distance for the train and local or urban CS lines.
buses are green and have an
information display.
By Tram
There are trams in Amsterdam,
Rotterdam, Utrecht and The
Hague. They generally run from
6am to midnight. On Sundays
they start one or one-and-a-half
hours later. Tram stops display
the name of the stop, the tram
numbers that stop there and
show the other stops on the
route. Tram shelters display
maps of the tram network.
You can board or alight from
any door, unless there is a
conductor on the tram, when An NS double-decker train speeding past tulip fields
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 447
Special Outings
The Canal Bus is an excellent way to get around Amsterdams waterways. They operate on
three circular routes: the green route, the red route and the blue route, which meet at various
points, including the jetty outside Centraal Station
and on the Singelgracht between the Rijksmuseum
and Leidseplein. There are 17 stops in all and
together they provide easy access to most major
sights. During high season, boats leave from
opposite Centraal Station every half an hour
between 9:30am and 6pm. A day ticket for all
three routes, which costs 19 per adult, and
9.50 for children (aged 412 years), allows
you to hop on and off as many times as you
like. Another reasonable offer is the 24-hour
ticket, which costs just 2.50 more. The Canal Bus in Amsterdam
448 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Cycling
The flat landscape of the Netherlands makes it a boon for
cyclists. At least 85 per cent of the population has a bicycle,
and there is no shortage of maps and guidebooks with
interesting cycling routes. You can use the LF-routes (see
p449) to plan your own daytrip or cycling holiday. Another
possibility is to take part in an organized cycle tour, where
you are awarded a souvenir medal at the end.
Guides showing cycling routes
Road Safety some 100 railway stations with can hire bicycles. The VVV and
The large number of cycle paths a Rijwielshop or Fietspoint. Cycle ANWB can also direct you to
and cycle lanes, often equipped hire usually costs around 7.50 cycle hire shops.
with traffic lights for cyclists, per day. Cycle hire shops also
make cycling in the Netherlands offer weekly tariffs that work
a safe and enjoyable activity. out relatively cheaper. Many of Security
However, its worth keeping a them require a deposit, which Even if your bicycle is
look-out for mopeds, which can range from 30 to 145, equipped with a rear-wheel
frequently make use of cycle and often want proof of lock, its a good idea par-
paths. Cycling in the peaceful identity. Tandems are also ticularly in the big cities to
countryside and cycling in sometimes available, though secure your bicycle to a post
the busy city are two quite they cost more, and their lack or a bicycle rack by the front
separate experiences. In of manoeuvrability does not wheel. Cycle hire shops will
Amsterdam particularly, the make them very suitable for often provide you with a lock
traffic is fairly chaotic mostly use in city traffic. for the bike, especially in cities
because of the large number where bicycle theft is a
of cyclists, who tend to ignore problem. At many railway
the traffic regulations. If you stations you can leave your
are unaccustomed to this, its bicycle in a secure bicycle
worth taking extra care. Front park for around 1. Do
and rear lights, a rear reflector Sign for the Rijwiel cycle hire shop, found not leave any luggage on
and reflective strips or reflective at nearly 100 railway stations your bicycle if you park it
circles are compulsory at night. somewhere, not even in a
Many cyclists ride without this If you are planning to make a guarded bicycle park.
equipment, often leaving them train journey and hire a cycle
almost invisible. from your destination, it is
worth buying a huurfietskaartje Bicycles and Public
(cycle hire ticket) when setting Transport
Cycle Hire out. It is a good idea to reserve For an additional payment you
There are plenty of cycle hire the bicycle by telephone in can take your bicycle on the
shops in the Netherlands. You advance. The NS publishes a train, except during rush hours
can either go to private cycle special pamphlet, Fiets en Trein, (SepJun: 6:309am and 4:30
hire places or hire a bike from which lists stations where you 6pm MonFri). To do this, you
need to buy a Dagkaart fiets
(bike ticket) from a train or
metro station in addition to
your ordinary train ticket.
These tickets cost 6 and
are valid for the whole day
regardless of the length of
your journey. Places for bi-
cycles on trains are marked
with stickers on the carriage.
Folding cycles, when folded,
may be taken on trains free
of charge. Bicycles may be
taken on metros and
suburban (fast) trams,
provided that you have a
bike ticket, but they are
not allowed on buses
An organized cycling tour on the Zaanse Schans and city trams.
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 449
Cycling Tours
If you want to get from point
A to point B by the quickest
possible route, just follow the
white-and-red ANWB cycle
route signposts. Maps and
guides for cyclists describing
routes of various lengths are
available from the VVV, the
ANWB and many bookstores.
They often contain a variety of
local background information,
as well as the addresses of cycle
hire shops and places to stay,
such as pensions, camping sites Cyclists on tour stopping to enjoy an ice cream
and hiking huts (see also p395).
Useful examples are the regional 230-km/143-mile Elfstedenroute To take part in an organized
ANWB/VVV Toeristenkaarten, in Friesland) are described in cycle tour, contact organizations
which suggest some particularly guides such as the ANWB/VVV such as Cycletours or the
enjoyable routes, and the Lange Fiestronde. These routes Fietsvakantiewinkel (see
Dwarsstap-fiets-mappen, which are also signposted. Another p429), some of the main
give descriptions of cycle routes, organization, the Stichting VVV offices and the ANWB
often in the area surrounding Landelijk Fiets-platform, or (members only). These
big cities, and also contain national cycling association organizations can arrange
topographical maps. The (see p429), has a network of cycle-tour packages, including
regional ANWB/VVV- some 6,000 km (3,730 miles) accommodation and luggage
fietsgiden have maps and of numbered National transfer. For information on
provide descriptions of Cycle Routes (Landelijke cycling in nature reserve
hundreds of enjoyable Fiestroutes, or LF). areas, see page 429.
cycling trips of around These often follow
25 km (15 miles), from quiet byroads and
the Amelandroute to the cycle tracks and are Cycling Events
Maasdalroute in Limburg. Cycle lane described in two of the Meimaand Fietsmaand is the
Many of these routes are sign LF-basisgidsen. Some are years biggest bicycle event:
marked with hexagonal marked with square a whole month (May) packed
signs. Around 45 railway-based signs, such as LF-15, which is with bicycle rides, meets
routes are also offered under the Boerenlandroute (farmland and races throughout the
the name NS-Fietstocht. Maps route) from Alkmaar to Netherlands. In 2010, about
of the route are on sale at the Enschede. Guides to individual 570,000 cyclists participated.
relevant railway stations. NS routes are also available. The Information on the various
publishes a booklet, entitled Fietsideenkaart, a map available routes and events can be
Er op Uit!, describing these from the VVV and ANWB, also found at the national cycling
routes. Long-distance tours provides brief descriptions of associations website: www.
of at least 200 km (125 miles) LF and other marked cycling fietsplatform.nl. Local
in length (for example, the routes around the country. cycle-touring clubs organize
regular non-competitive
tours through picturesque
or interesting areas, although
you have to pay a fee to join.
For further information, apply
at the Dutch cycle tour
society (Nederlandse Toer
Fiets Unie, or NFTU, see p429).
In addition, dozens of local
tours lasting several days are
organized locally, such as the
Drentse Rijwielvierdaagse in
July. Participants can often
choose between routes of
lengths varying from 30 to
100 km (20 to 60 miles) per
day. You will find an over-
view of these online at www.
The ferry at Wijk near Duurstede, which carries bicycles fiets4daagse.nl.
450 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Amsterdam 22, 64163, 170, 171 Appelscha 305
main entries. Amsterdam and Environs map 19 Appingedam 281, 283, 292
Amsterdams Best: Cafs 723 Aqua Delta (Bruinisse) 257
3-Oktoberfeesten (Leiden) 38 Amsterdams Best: Canals and Aqua Mundo 393
30 Years War 201, 242, 243 Waterways 667 Aqua Zoo Friesland (Leeuwarden) 426,
80 Years War 53, 54, 349, 359 Amsterdams Best: Museums 7071 427
Battle of the Mookerhei (1574) 374 Canal Ring 98119 Aquariums
Peace of Mnster (1648) 55 Canal Walk 1029 Artis Royal Zoo (Amsterdam) 143
surrender of Breda (1625) 367 A Circular Tour from Amsterdam 11, 16 Deltapark Neeltje Jans
William of Orange 232 entertainment 15053 (Vrouwenpolder) 250
festivals 369 Dolfinarium (Harderwijk) 336, 341,
A Golden Age 54, 689 426, 427
Aalsmeer 193 history 51, 54, 56 North Sea Aquarium (Den Holder)
Aaltjesdag (Harderwijk) 37 hotels 3967 182
Aardenburg 259 Museum Quarter 12033 Sea Life Scheveningen 229
Abbekerk 184 Nieuwe Zijde 8697 see also Zoos
Abbeys Oude Zijde 7485 Arcen 353, 374
Abbey Church (Thorn) 382 Outside the Centre 13447 Archaeology 467
Drenthe Abbey cloister 312 public transport 4467 megalith route 31011
Egmond Abbey 192 reclaimed land 171 Archeon (Alphen a/d Rijn) 426, 427
Middelburg Abbey 253, 254 restaurants 4069 Architecture
Aboriginal Art Museum (Utrecht) 206 shopping 1489 Amsterdam School 1467
De Acht en de Opbouw 330 Street Finder 15463 Brabant Gothic and Neo-Gothic style
Achterberg, Gerrit 223 tourist information 150, 433 354
Achterhoek 335, 345, 346 Two Days in Amsterdam 10, 12 Canal House Architecture
Acquoy 349 Amsterdam (East Indiaman) 71, 134, (Amsterdam) 100101
Adrianus VI, Pope 245 136, 137 Farmhouses and Windmills 289
Aduard, restaurants 412 Amsterdam Exchange 54 Arkel, Gerrit van 111
Aertsen, Pieter 128, 132 Amsterdam Museum 70, 86, 88, 967 Arkel, Jan van, Bishop of Utrecht 201
De-Affaire (Nijmegen) 347 Amsterdam School 79, 82, 95, 116, 117, Arnhem 17, 335, 344
Afsluitdijk 167, 168, 180, 327 119, 145, 1467, 228 hotels 400
itineraries 11, 15 Amsterdamsche Veld 315 map 344
Air travel 171, 4423, 445 Amsterdamse Bos (Amstelveen) 193 restaurants 414
Ajax Amsterdam 63, 73, 152, 153 Amsterdamse Poort (Haarlem) 189 Arnhem, Battle of (1944) 344
Albert, Prince Consort 124 Amsterdamse Waterleidingduinen Arsenaal (Vlissingen) 255
Albert Cuypmarkt (Amsterdam) 22, (Zandvoort) 192 Het Arsenaal Amusement Park
145 Amusement and theme parks 4267 (Vlissingen) 255, 426, 427
Albert Heijn (Zaanse Schans) 179 Amusement Park Het Arsenaal Art
Alberts and Van Huut 286, 313 (Vlissingen) 255, 426, 427 The Dutch Masters 3031
Alblasserwaard 244, 245 Avonturenpark Hellendoorn 325, Genre painting 127
Alewijn, Cornelis 115 426, 427 Landscape art 333
Alkmaar 15, 185 Duinrell (Wassenaar) 4267, 427 Pottery and Tiles 323
Allard Pierson Museum (Amsterdam) De Efteling (Kaatsheuvel) 359, 366, 427 Art Deco 32, 116
94 Linnaeushof (Bennebroek) 216, 427 Art Nouveau
Alleb, A, Early to Church 57 Madurodam (The Hague) 229 architecture 111, 116, 189
Almere 327, 328, 333 Mini Mundi (Middelburg) 253 pottery 32, 33
restaurants 414 Verkeerspark Assen 312 Artis Royal Zoo (Amsterdam) 1423
Almshouses see Hofjes The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Jan Deijman Arts, performing 24
The Alteration 79, 80, 90, 91, 128 (Rembrandt) 78, 96 see also Entertainment
and clandestine churches 95 The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Nicolaes Tulp Aspergerie Primeur (Venlo) 36
Oude Kerk (Amsterdam) 80 (Rembrandt) 78, 226 Assen 307, 312
Alva, Ferdinand, Duke of 45, 54, 375 Anloo 311 restaurants 413
Ambtmanshuis (Tiel) 348 Anne Frank Huis (Amsterdam) 12, 70, Atelier van Lieshout, Bonnefantopia
Ambulances 436, 437 110, 11213 379
Ameland 15, 269, 271, 2789 Anninga, Hib 320 ATMs 438
hotels 398 Antiques shops 149, 416, 421 Auctions 417, 421
restaurants 412 Antonisz, Cornelis, The Guild of St Autumn 389
American Hotel (Amsterdam) 116 George 51 Avercamp, Hendrick, Winter Landscape
Amerongen 211 ANWB (Dutch Automobile Club) 432, with Skaters 126
hotels 397 433 Avonturenpark Hellendoorn 317, 325,
Amersfoort 11, 16, 196, 199, 210 campsites 395 426, 427
hotels 397 roadside assistance 436, 437, 445
restaurants 410 Apartments, renting 389 B
Amersfoortse kei 210 Apeldoorn 13, 33840 Baanderheren 345
Amstel, river 67, 73, 109 Apenheul Primate Park (Apeldoorn) 340 Baarn 203
Amstel china 33 Apollo (Quellien) 69 restaurants 410
Amstelsluizen (Amsterdam) 139 Appel, Karel 62 Baat, Jan de, Ome Loeks horse 285
Amstelveen 193 Man and Animals 133 Backer, Adriaen, Governesses at the
Amstelveld (Amsterdam) 106 Women, Children, Animals 193 Burgher Orphanage 70
GENERAL INDEX 451
Backhuyzen, Ludolf, The IJ at Betondorp (Amsterdam) 146 Boats and ships (cont.)
Amsterdam, Viewed from the Mussel Betuwe 26, 27, 335, 3489 Scheepvaart Museum (Amsterdam)
Quay 42 Beukelsz, Willem 51 71, 1367
Balderick, Bishop of Utrecht 44 Beuningen, DG van 238 Schepenhal (Zuiderzeemuseum) 180
Balk 303 Beurs van Berlage (Amsterdam) 95, Werfmuseum t Kromhout
Ballet 150, 153, 423, 425 146, 150, 153 (Amsterdam) 139
Balloo 310 Beurstraverse (Rotterdam) 236 Boerhaave, Hermanus 220, 221
Balloorkuil (Rolde) 314 Beuys, Joseph 368 Boers 61
Bandkeramikers 46, 371 Bezoekerscentrum (Orvelte) 314 Boezem, Marius, Groene Kathedraal 333
Bank notes 439 Bezoekerscentrum De Reidplm 305 Boijmans, FJO 238
Banket van de Officieren van de Bezoekerscentrum Sallandse Bol, Ferdinand 128
St-Jorisdoelen (Hals) 190 Heuvelrug (Nijverdal) 325 Bollard, Sibout 109
Banks 4389 Bicker, Jan 115 Bollenstreek 21617
opening hours 433, 438 Bickerseiland (Amsterdam) 115 festivals 36
Barents, Willem 52, 53, 278 Bicycles see Cycling Bolsward 298, 301
Barneveld 341 Biddinghuizen, restaurants 414 Bommel, Willem van 374
restaurants 414 Biesbosch 51, 359 Boniface, St 489, 300
Bartels, Chris 119 Bijbels Museum (Amsterdam) 117 Bonifatiusbron (Dokkum) 300
Bartje (statue) (Assen) 312 Bilhamer, Joost 85, 82, 96, 132 Bonnefantenmuseum (Maastricht) 353,
Bartlehiem 295, 299 Binnen-Dieze (s-Hertogenbosch) 362, 3789
Bartolotti House (Amsterdam) 100, 110 366 Bonnefantopia (Atelier van Lieshout)
Basilica/Basiliek see Churches Binnenhof (The Hague) 12, 222, 223, 379
Batavia 262, 331 224 Books
Batavian Republic 45, 58 Biondo, Giovanni del, St Stephen 379 Deventer Bocckenmarkt 324
Batavians 47, 346 Birds shops (Amsterdam) 149
Bataviawerf (Lelystad) 16, 331 beak shapes 272 Bordello Scene (van Mieris de Oude)
Bauhaus 132 Botshol 200 226
Bavaria, House of 50 environmental policy 2645 Boreel, Jacob 107
Bazel, KPC de 117 Griend 278 Borger 307, 311, 314
Beaches 1723 Knardijk 332 restaurants 413
Beaker People 46, 263, 31011, 314, 371 Naardermeer 195 Borssele, Floris van 257
Beatrix, Queen 45, 63, 110, 203, 299, Northern and Eastern Netherlands Bosch, Hieronymus 363, 366
368 266 The Pedlar 239
Bed and breakfast 388 Oostvaardersplassen 332 Bosch, Theo 80
Beeckman, Andries 61 Oude Venen 305 Bosschaert, Ambrosius, Vase with
Beek, climate 40 De Slufter (Texel) 277 Flowers 226
Beekbergen, restaurants 414 Waddenzee 2723 Botshol 200
De Beemster 177, 179 West Frisian Islands 269 Bouman, Elias 82
Beer Blaricum, restaurants 409 Bourtange 281, 293
Nationaal Biermuseum De Boom Bleys, AC 95 Braakensiek, Johan, Hunting Day 97
(Alkmaar) 185 Blijdorp (Rotterdam) 236 Brabant, Dukes of 359, 371
shopping for 420 Bloem, JC 369 Brants, Christoffel 105
Us Heit Bierbrouwerij (Bolsward) 301 Bloemaert, Abraham Cornelisz 206 Breakdowns, cars 436, 437
Beerta 283 Bloemen Corso (Bollenstreek) 34, 36, Breda 352, 3667
Beetsterzwaag 305 217 hotels 401
Beggars of the Sea 54, 192, 220, 245 Bloemenveiling Flora Holland restaurants 414
Begijnhof (Amsterdam) 12, 87, 88, 91 (Aalsmeer) 193 Bredius, Abraham 224
t Behouden Huys (Terschelling) 15, Bloemgracht (Amsterdam) 66, 110 Breitner, George Hendrik 129, 228, 369
278 Blokzijl 318 Breukelen 202
Belgian Revolution 59 hotels 400 Bridges
Benthem, Evert van 299 Blom, P 235 Erasmusbrug (Rotterdam) 235
Berckheijde, Gerrit A Boats and ships Korenbeursbrug (Leiden) 14, 219
The Flower Market and Town Hall 97 Batavia 331 Magere Brug (Amsterdam) 66,
The Grote Markt, Haarlem 188, 191 boat show (Amsterdam) 39 11819
Herengracht 109 Canal Bus (Amsterdam) 447 Reguliersgracht (Amsterdam) 108
Berg en Dal, restaurants 414 Dutch Trading Empire 523 St Servaasbrug (Maastricht) 377
Bergen, Adriaen van 367 ferries 444, 445 Torensluis (Amsterdam) 94
Bergen aan Zee, hotels 397 Fries Scheepvaart Museum (Sneek) Brielle 245
Bergen op Zoom 360, 367 303 festivals 36
festivals 356 Kano & Electroboot Waterland (Broek Brienen, Margurite Mary, Baroness
restaurants 414 in Waterland) 182 van 229
Bergen op Zoom, Siege of 59 Noordelijk Scheepvaartmuseum Brinker, Hans 27, 301
Bergen School 185 (Groningen) 287 Broek in Waterland 182
Berlage, HP 145, 146, 244, 342 punts 323 hotels 397
Beurs van Berlage 95, 146 regattas 37 Bronbeek 344
Gemeentemuseum Den Haag 228 Rotterdam: City of Water 24041 Bronckhorst, Han van 93
Bernhard, Prince 125 sailing 428 Bronkhorst 17, 337, 345
Bernold, Bishop of Utrecht 206 Scheepswerf De Schelde (Vlissingen) Bronze Age 46
Besten, Pieter de 119 255 Brouwersgracht (Amsterdam) 66, 115
452 GENERAL INDEX
Delft 14, 213, 23033, 43031 Drentse Aa, river 309, 313 Eisenga, Eise 301
hotels 397 De Drie Fleschjes (Amsterdam) 72 Ekels, Jan, Westerkerk 114
restaurants 410 De Driehoek 332 Elburg 11, 16, 340
street-by-street 23031 Drommedaris (Enkhuizen) 16, 182 Electricity 434
Delftware 323, 191, 228, 230, 233 Dronten 327, 331 Electrische Museumtramlijn
Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 129 Drouwenerzand 313 (Amsterdam-Amstelveen) 193
shopping for 419 Drugs Elfsteden (11 towns) 295
tiles 68, 233 attitudes towards 245, 437 Elfstedentocht 262, 295, 2989, 303
Delfzijl 281 Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum Ellertsveld 267, 313
Delta plan for the large rivers 27 (Amsterdam) 76, 79 Elsloo 383
Delta Works 21, 25051 prescription drugs 436 Email 441
Deltapark Neeltje Jans Dubuffet, Jean, Jardin dmail 342 Embassies 435
(Vrouwenpolder) 250 Dudok, Willem 195 Emergencies 436, 437
Den Bosch see s-Hertogenbosch Duhameel, Alart 365 Emma, Queen 45, 222
Den Burg 276 Duinrell (Wassenaar) 426, 427 Emmeloord 326, 327, 329, 330
Den Haag see The Hague Duivelshuis (Arnhem) 17, 344 hotels 400
Den Ham, hotels 399 Dlmen-Krumpelmann, Bernard von, Emmen 307, 315
Den Helder 175, 182 Children Bathing in a Stream 312 Ems, river 279, 281
climate 40 Dunes 22, 1723 Engelmunduskerk (Velsen) 192
festivals 37 Drer, Albrecht 129 English-Dutch Naval Wars 55
Den Hoorn 277 Dutch East India Company 523, 54, Enkhuizen 15, 16, 175, 177, 182
Deurne 369 137, 175, 269 Enlightenment 55
Deventer 17, 317, 320, 324 Abel Tasman 290 Enschede 317, 325
restaurants 413 abolition of 59 restaurants 414
Dialling codes 440 Bataviawerf (Lelystad) 331 Entertainment 4227
Diamonds 419 Broek in Waterland 182 Amsterdam 15053
Coster Diamonds (Amsterdam) 123, and colonialism 60, 61 amusement and theme parks 4267
124 Entrepotdok Amsterdam) 138 church music 424, 425
The Diary of Anne Frank 112, 113 and Golden Age of Amsterdam 689 cinema 1512, 153
Dibbets, General 376 Middelburg 252 classical music 150, 153
Dietrich, Marlene 119 Montelbaanstoren (Amsterdam) 82 clubs and discos 152, 153
Diever 310, 315 The Batavia 262 dance 150, 151, 423, 425
Dikke Toren (Zierikzee) 256 Dutch masters 3031, 689 film 423
Disabled travellers 433 Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 1269 jazz 424, 425
in hotels 390 Dutch National Ballet 150 listings 150, 432
in restaurants 403 Dutch Reformed Church 23 musicals and cabaret 151, 153, 422,
Discos (Amsterdam) 152, 153 Dutch West India Company 52, 58, 61 425
Discounts Duyl Schwarze, Thrse van, My opera 150, 153, 424, 425
in hotels 390 Domestic Companions 108 orchestral, chamber and choir music
rail travel 444 Dwingelderveld 314 4234, 425
Doctors 436 Dwingeloo 307, 308, 314 rock and pop 15051, 153, 424, 425
Dodge, Mary Mapes 27 Dyck, Floris Claeszoon van, Stilleven spectator sports 152, 153
Doesburg 26061, 346 190 theatre 151, 153, 422, 425
Doesburg, Theo van 62, 132, 208, 220 Dykes 267, 1689, 250 Entrepotdok (Amsterdam) 67, 138
Doetinchem, hotels 401 Environmental policy 2645
Dokkum 15, 298, 299, 300301 E Epen 23
Dolfinarium (Harderwijk) 336, 341, 426, Early to Church (Alleb) 57 Erasmus, Desiderius 79
427 Earnewld 305 Erasmusbrug (Rotterdam) 235
Domburg 246, 255 Ebenhazerhuis (Appingedam) 292 Erfgooiers 195
hotels 398 Ecodrome Park (Zwolle) 317, 320 De Erfgooiers (Hart Nibbrig) 195
restaurants 412 EcoMare (Texel) 271, 427 Ermelo, restaurants 414
Domkerk (Utrecht) 13, 206, 424, 425 Edam 16, 175, 178 Escher, Maurits Cornelius 222, 225
Domtoren (Utrecht) 13, 206 Eelde-Paterswolde 313 Escher in Het Paleis (The Hague) 13,
Doorn 21011 climate 41 222, 225
Dordrecht 14, 22, 23, 170, 244 Eems, M 191 Etiquette, restaurant 403
hotels 398 Eenrum, hotels 399 Euromast (Rotterdam) 14, 236
Dordrecht, Synod of (1618-19) 56 Eerste Friese Schaatsmuseum European Economic Community 62
Dorestad 48, 49 (Hindeloopen) 299, 302 European Union 43, 63
Dortsman, Adriaan 94, 119 Eerste Hollandsche Europoort (Rotterdam) 22, 241
Drainage 1689 Levensverzerkerings Bank Euros 439
Cornelis Lely 330 (Amsterdam) 111 Eurospoor (Utrecht) 38
Drees, Willem Sr 62 Eesteren, Cornelis van 330 Euthanasia 24
Dreischor 247, 257 Eetcafs 402 Ewsum, Wigbold van 290
Drenthe 46, 262, 263, 30615 De Efteling (Kaatsheuvel) 359, 366, 427 Exloo 313
hotels 399400 Efteling Village Bosrijk 392 Exloo necklace 47, 311
landscape 267 Egbert II, Count of Friesland 44 Eyck, Aldo van 330
map 3089 Egelantiersgracht (Amsterdam) 110 Eyck, Jan & Hubert van, Three Marys at
megalith route 31011 Egmond 192 the Open Sepulchre 238
restaurants 413 Eijsden 383, 384
Drents Boomkroonpad (Borger) 314 Eindhoven 352, 359, 368 F
Drents-Friese Woud National Park 295, airport 443, 445 Fabritius, Carel, The Goldfinch 227
305, 315 restaurants 41415 The Family Scene (Steen) 31
GENERAL INDEX 455
De Groote Sociteit (Tiel) 348 t Hart, Lenie 291 Hoek van Holland 26, 171
Grootegast 290 t Hart, Maarten 233 Hoensbroek 382
Grote Kerk see Churches Hart Nibbrig, F, De Erfgooiers 195 Hof (Dordrecht) 244
Grote Markt (Haarlem) 186 Hartgring, WP 33 Hofjes 101, 115
Grote Markt, Haarlem (Berckheijde) 188, Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum Begijnhof (Amsterdam) 87, 88, 91
191 (Amsterdam) 76, 79 Claes Claeszhofje (Amsterdam) 115
Grotten St-Pietersburg (Maastricht) Hattem 340 Heilige Geestgasthuis (Groningen)
381 Havelte 308, 310 286
Grou 305 Havezathe Laarwoud (Zuidlaren) 313 Leiden 220
The Guild of St George (Antonisz) 51 Health care 4367 Pallaeskameren (Utrecht) 204
Guilds 51, 78 Heathland 267 St Elisabeths Gasthuis (Haarlem) 189
Gulpen 383 Heda, Willem 30 St Geertruidshofje (Groningen) 285,
restaurants 415 Heek, JH van 346 286
Heemskerck, Admiral Jacob van 52, 53, Hoge Berg (Texel) 266, 276
H 85 De Hoge Veluwe National Park 11, 17,
Haaldersbroek 179 Heemskerck, Maerten Jacobsz van 192 2667, 337, 343
Haamstede 256 St Luke Painting the Virgin and Child Hogebeintum 297
Haan, Jacob Isral de 114 191 Holiday villages 3923
Haarlem 22, 166, 170, 18691 Heemskerk 192 Holland 22
hotels 397 hotels 397 see also North Holland; South Holland
itineraries 10, 14 Heemstede, restaurants 409 Holland, Counts of 43, 44, 188, 197,
restaurants 409 s-Heerenberg 346 201, 213, 222, 223, 224
street-by-street 1867 Heerenveen 304 Holland Festival 37
Haarlem Station 189 restaurants 413 Hollandse Manege (Amsterdam) 125
Haarlemmermeer 168, 193 Heerlen 371, 382 Hollewijn, Ber 376
Haarlemmerpoort (Amsterdam) 115 Heeswijk-Dinter 361 Hollum (Ameland) 15, 279
Haarzuilens 197 Heeze 369 Holst, Roland 369
Habsburg, House of 44, 45, 51 Heiligerlee, Battle of (1568) 292 Holten, hotels 400
Hagen, Dr Abraham van 119 Hein, Piet 52, 232, 236, 245 Holthuysen, Pieter 118
The Hague (Den Haag) 14, 22, 170, 213, Heine, Heinrich 24 Homer 141
2229 Heineken Experience (Amsterdam) Homomonument (Amsterdam) 111,
festivals 37, 38 145 114
hotels 398 Heksenwaag (Oudewater) 198, 201 Homosexuality 24
map 225 Hellendoorn adventure park 325 Hondsbossche sea wall 173
restaurants 411 Hellevoetsluis 245 Hondsrug 313
street-by-street 2223 Helmond 369 Honthorst, Gerard van 68, 127
tourist information 433 Helpoort (Maastricht) 380 The Matchmaker 206
Two Days in The Hague 10, 1213 Hemert, Anthony van 106 The Merry Fiddler 31
Hague School 129, 228, 243 Hemmen, Pikeur Loeks van 285 Hooch, Pieter de, Portrait of a Family
De Hallen (Amsterdam) 145 Hemony, Franois 85, 119, 286 Making Music 545
De Hallen (Haarlem) 1889 Hemony, Pieter 286 Hoofddorp, restaurants 410
Hals, Frans 188 Hendrik, Prince 338 Hoofdplaat, restaurants 412
Banket van de Officieren van de Hengelo, hotels 400 Hooft, PC 55, 194
St-Jorisdoelen 190 Henry I, Duke of Brabant 359, 362 Hoogersmilde 46
The Fool 30 Hepworth, Barbara 342 Hoogeveen 307
Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem) 10, 14, Herengracht (Amsterdam) 67, 101, Hoogstraat (Leiden) 219
188, 19091 1039 Hooks and Cods dispute 43, 50, 51
The Wedding Portrait 128 Herengracht (Berckheijde) 109 De Hoop wharf (Workum) 302
Hamburg Culture 46 Hermitage Amsterdam 144 Hoorn (North Holland) 15, 182
Hamer, PJ 125 Herrings 36 Hoorn (Terschelling) 278
Hamer, W 125 Hertenhouderij Edelveen (Kampen) Hoppe (Amsterdam) 72
Handel, Georg Friedrich 188 321 Horse market (Zuidlaren) 307, 313
Hanging kitchens (Appingedam) 283, s-Hertogenbosch 352, 3626 Horse riding 429
292 festivals 37, 356 Horsterwold (Zeewolde) 333
Hanseatic League hotels 401 Hortus Botanicus Leiden 14, 218, 220
Appingedam 281, 292 restaurants 415 Hortus Haren (Haren) 287
Deventer 318, 324 street-by-street 3623 Hospitals 436, 437
Gelederland 335 Hessen-Kassel, Maria Louise van 300 Hostels 388
Hattem 340 Heusden 366 Hotel New York (Rotterdam) 241
Kampen 318, 320, 321 Heuvelland 353, 373 Hotel de Wereld (Wageningen) 341
Ommen 324 tour of 3845 Hotels 388401
Zwolle 317, 320 Heyden, Jan van der 133 Amsterdam 3967
Harderwijk 336, 341 The Newly Built Town Hall on the River booking 389
festivals 37 Amstel 93 categories 3889
hotels 401 Hijken 46 disabled travellers 390
Haren 287 Hilversum 195 discounts 390
Harich, hotels 399 restaurants 409 Drenthe 399400
Harinxmastate (Beetsterzwaag) 305 Hindeloopen 11, 15, 298, 302 Flevoland 400
Harlingen 15, 296, 298, 301 History 4263 Friesland 399
festivals 37 Hiswa (Amsterdam) 39 gay hotels 39091
hotels 399 Hobbema, Meindert, Middelharnis Lane Gelderland 400401
restaurants 413 245 Groningen 399
GENERAL INDEX 457
Kuik, Andries van, Bishop of Utrecht 44 Lighthouses (cont.) Magna Plaza (Amsterdam) 94, 149, 421
Kuiperberg (Twente) 325 Het Paard (Marken) 178 Majolica 33, 233
Kunsthal (Rotterdam) 237 Scheveningen 229 Makkum 33
Kurhaus (Scheveningen) 13, 229 Westkapelle 255 restaurants 413
Kurokawa, Kisho 122, 130 Ligne, Jan de 242 Malevich, Kazimir 133
Kuyper, Abraham 59 Limburg 37085 Self-Portrait 133
festivals 37 Man and Animals (Appel) 133
L hotels 401 Manderscheidt-Blankenheim, Clara
Lage Vuursche 203 map 3723 Elisabeth van 355, 382
Lairesse, Gerard de 114 restaurants 415 De Manteling Nature Reserve 255
Het Lammetje (Veere) 255 Lindevallei (Wolvega) 297 Maps
Land reclamation see Reclaimed land Linge, river 244, 349 Amsterdam: Around the Jordaan
Landal Hoog Vaals 393 Lingelbach, Jan, Dam Square in 1656 street-by-street 11011
Landelijke Fietsmaand 36 689 Amsterdam: Cafs 723
Landgoed Anningahof 320 Linnaeus, Carl 341 Amsterdam: Canal Ring 99
Landgoed De Hamert National Park Linnaeushof (Bennebroek) 216, 427 Amsterdam: Canals and Waterways
374 Lisse 214, 216, 217 667
Landscape, Northern and Eastern festivals 36, 217 Amsterdam: Museum Quarter 121
Netherlands 2667 Lissitzky, El 368 Amsterdam: Museum Quarter street-
Landscape art 333 Lixenberg, Cyriel 333 by-street 1223
Landscape by Fading Light (Cuyp) 224 Lochem 345 Amsterdam: Museums 7071
Lange Jan (Middelburg) 253 festivals 36 Amsterdam: Nieuwe Zijde 87
Langgraf op de Schimmer Es (Emmen) Loenen 200, 202 Amsterdam: Nieuwe Zijde street-by-
315 Logteren, Ignatius van 144 street 889
Language 24, 432 London Quay (Middelburg) 253 Amsterdam: Oude Zijde 75
phrase book 4712 Het Loo (Apeldoorn) 13, 263, 3389 Amsterdam: Outside the Centre 135
Laren 195 Looier Kunst en Antiekcentrum Amsterdam: Street Finder 15463
The Last Judgment (van Leyden) 220 (Amsterdam) 117, 149 Amsterdam: University District street-
Laterna Magica (Sloten) 303 Loon 310 by-street 767
Lattrop, hotels 400 Loonse and Drunense dunes 360 Amsterdam and Environs 19
Lauswolt (Beetserzwaag) 305 Lost property 437 Arnhem 344
Lauwersmeer 282, 290 Lothair I, Emperor 48 bulb fields tour 216
Lauwersoog 15, 281, 290 Louis Napoleon, King 45, 59, 93 bungalow parks 3923
Lauwerszee 290 Louis the Pious, King 44 climate 4041
Le Maire, Jacob 52, 53 The Louse Hunt (ter Borch) 227 cross-section of Netherlands 267
Leeghwater, Jan Adriaansz 168, 169, The Love Letter (Vermeer) 68 Delft street-by-street 23031
179 LPF (Lijst Pim Fortuyn) 24 Drenthe 3089
Leek 290 Lubbers, Ruud 63 Dutch Trading Empire 523
Leenhoff, Ferdinand, Mercury 123 Lucent Danstheater (The Hague) 222 Elfstedentocht 2989
Leens 291 Lumey, William de la Marck, Lord van environmental policy 2645
Leerdam 244 245 Flevoland 3289
Leeuwarden 15, 295, 298, 300 Luther, Martin 51 Friesland 2967
Leeuwenhoek, Antonie van 55, 230 Lutjegast 290 Gelderland 3367
Leiden 22, 170, 213, 21821 hotels 399 Giethoorn street-by-street 3223
festivals 38 Luts, river 303 The Great Rivers 348
itineraries 10, 14 Lycklamahuis (Beetsterzwaag) 305 Groningen (province) 2823
restaurants 411 Groningen (town) street-by-street
street-by-street 21819 M 2845
Leiden, Relief of (1603) 242 Maarssen 202 growth of the Randstad 171
Leidse Jazzweek 39 restaurants 410 Haarlem street-by-street 1867
Leidsegracht (Amsterdam) 66, 104, 105 Maas, river 22, 348, 359, 366 The Hague (Den Haag) 225
Leidseplein (Amsterdam) 116 delta 247 The Hague (Den Haag) street-by-
Leisure time 25 Limburg 371, 372, 374 street 2223
Lek, river 26, 349 Maasbracht, restaurants 415 s-Hertogenbosch street-by-street
Lelie, Adriaan de 129 Maasplassen 375 3623
Lely, Cornelis 168, 327, 330 Maassluis 233 Heuvelland 3845
Lelystad 16, 327, 331 Maastricht 371, 37681 Itineraries 1011
hotels 400 airport 443, 445 Leiden street-by-street 21819
Lepelaarsplassen 333 festivals 37, 356 Limburg 3723
Leusden, restaurants 410 hotels 401 Maastricht street-by-street 3767
Leuwarden restaurants 415 megalith route (Drenthe) 31011
hotels 399 street-by-street 3767 Middelburg street-by-street 2523
restaurants 413 tourist information 433 North Brabant 36061
Leyden, Lucas van 128 Maastricht Treaty (1992) 63 North Holland 1767
The Last Judgment 220 McCay, Winsor 141 Northern and Eastern Netherlands
Liberalism 22, 23 Madame Tussauds Scenerama 2623
Librije (Zutphen) 345 (Amsterdam) 89, 90 Overijssel 31819
Lifestyle 245 Maduro, JML 229 Putting the Netherlands on the Map
Light of the Moon (Mitoraj) 229 Madurodam (The Hague) 229 1819
Lighthouses Maes, Nicolaes 128 reclaimed land 169
Brandaris (Terschelling) 278 Magazines 435 Road Map of the Netherlands see
Egmond 192 Magere Brug (Amsterdam) 66, 11819 back endpaper
GENERAL INDEX 459
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Goemanszorg (Bruinisse) 257 Museum Elisabeth Weeshuis Nationaal Luchtvaart Themapark
Grafisch Museum (Zutphen) 345 (Culemborg) 349 Aviodrome (Lelystadt) 331
Groninger Museum (Groningen) 11, Museum Flehite (Amersfoort) 210 Nationaal Museum van Speelklok tot
15, 263, 2889 Museum Freriks (Winterswijk) 346 Pierement (Utrecht) 13, 207
De Groote Sociteit (Tiel) 348 Museum De Gevangenpoort Nationaal Rijtuigmuseum (Leek) 290
Haags Historisch Museum (The (The Hague) 224 Nationaal Tinnen Figuren Museum
Hague) 223 Museum voor Glaskunst (Vledder) 315 (Ommen) 324
De Hallen (Haarlem) 1889 Museum Gouda 243 Naturalis Biodiversity Center (Leiden)
Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum Museum Haarlem 189 221
(Amsterdam) 76, 79 Museum voor Hedendaagse Grafiek Natuurhistorisch Museum
Hermitage Amsterdam 144 (Vledder) 315 (Maastricht) 380
Historisch Museum Apeldoorn 340 Museum Hidde Nijland Stichting Natuurmuseum Dokkum 300, 301
Historisch Museum Den Briel (Brielle) (Hindeloopen) 302 Natuurmuseum Frysln
245 Museum Hilversum 195 (Leeuwarden) 300
Historisch Museum De Waag Museum De Lakenhal (Leiden) 220 Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum
(Deventer) 17, 324 Museum Martena (Franeker) 301 (Utrecht) 205, 207
Huis Simon van Gijn (Dordrecht) Museum Nagele 330 Het Nederlands
244 Museum Ons Lieve Heer Op Solder Stoommachinemuseum
Ikonenmuseum (Kampen) 17, 321 (Amsterdam) 95 (Medemblik) 182
Internationaal Klompenmuseum Museum Het Oude Raadhuis (Urk) Nederlands Textielmuseum (Tilburg)
(Eelde) 313 330 366
Jenever Museum (Schiedam) 233 Museum voor Papierknipkunst Nederlands Vestingmuseum
Joods Historisch Museum (Westerbork) 314 (Naarden) 194
(Amsterdam) 71, 81 Museum het Rembrandthuis NEMO Science Museum
Jopie Huisman Museum (Workum) (Amsterdam) 69, 77, 82 (Amsterdam) 71, 14041
302 Museum Schokland 11, 16, 330 Nieuw Land Erfgoedcentrum
Kaasmuseum (Alkmaar) 185 Museum Simon van Gijn (Dordrecht) (Lelystad) 331
Kaatsmuseum (Franeker) 301 14 Het Nieuwe Instituut (Rotterdam) 237
Kamper Tabaksmuseum (Kampen) Museum Slag bij Heiligerlee 292 NISA (Netherlands Institute for
321 Museum Slager (s-Hertogenbosch) Submarine Archaeology) 331
Kattenkabinet (Amsterdam) 106 366 Noordbrabants Museum
Kinderkunsthal Villa Zebra Museum Spaans Gouvernement (s-Hertogenbosch) 363, 366
(Rotterdam) 237 (Maastricht) 381 Noordelijk Scheepvaartmuseum
Koninklijk Paleis (Amsterdam) 12, 68, Museum Spakenburg (Bunschoten- (Groningen) 287
69, 71, 89, 923 Spakenburg) 203 Olde Maat Uus (Giethoorn) 322
Krller-Mller Museum (Otterlo) 11, Museum Staphorst 324 Oorlogs en Verzetsmuseum
17, 3423 Museum Stedhs Sleat (Sloten) 303 (Overloon) 374
Kunsthal (Rotterdam) 237 Museum Stoomgemaal (Winschoten) Openluchtmuseum (Arnhem) 344
Kunsthal KAdE (Amersfoort) 210 292 Openluchtmuseum Los Hoes
Landgoed Anningahof 320 Museum van der Togt (Amstelveen) (Ootmarsum) 317, 325
Laterna Magica (Sloten) 303 193 Orvelte Open-air Museum 314
Limburgs Museum (Venlo) 374 Museum van de Twintigste Eeuw Oudheidkamer (Bolsward) 301
Maarten van Rossummuseum (Hoorn) 182 Oudheidkamer (Den Burg) 276
(Zaltbommel) 349 Museum Het Valkhof (Nijmegen) 347 Oudheidkamer (Nunspeet) 340
Marinemuseum (Den Helder) 182 Museum voor Valse Kunst (Vledder) Paleis aan de Blijmarkt (Zwolle) 16,
Marker Museum (Marken) 16, 178 315 320
Markiezenhof (Bergen op Zoom) 360, Museum Van Bommel-Van Dam Paleis Het Loo (Apeldoorn) 263,
367 (Venlo) 374 3389
Mauritshuis (The Hague) 12, 166, 223, Museum Van Loon (Amsterdam) 12, Panorama Mesdag (The Hague) 214,
2267 119 228
Mauritshuis (Willemstad) 367 Museum Volkenkunde (Leiden) 221 Pharmacy Museum (Maarssen) 202
Molenmuseum (Koog a/d Zaan) 179 Museum voor de Volkshuisvesting Philips Museum (Eindhoven) 368
Mondriaanhuis voor Constructieve (Amsterdam) 147 Pluimveemuseum (Barneveld) 341
en Concrete Kunst (Amersfoort) 11, Museum Warkums Erfskip (Workum) Polderhuis Dijk en Oorlogsmuseum
16, 210 302 (Westkapelle) 255
Museonder (Otterlo) 17, 343 Museum Watersnood 1953 Het Princessehof (Leeuwarden) 15,
Museum De Baracquen (Bourtange) (Ouwerkerk) 256 300
293 Museum De Wieger (Deurne) 369 Reddingsmuseum Abraham Fock
Museum Beelden aan Zee Museum Willet-Holthuysen (Ameland) 279
(Scheveningen) 13, 229 (Amsterdam) 118 t Regthuys (Abbekerk) 184
Museum t Behouden Huys Museum De Zwarte Tulp (Lisse) 217 Rietveld Schrder-Huis (Utrecht) 13,
(Terschelling) 15, 278 Museum-klooster Ter Apel 293 167, 2089
Museum Betje Wolff 179 Muzee Scheveningen Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 12, 70,
Museum Boerhaave (Leiden) 22021 (Scheveningen) 229 123, 1269
Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen Nairac museum (Barneveld) 341 Rijksmuseum van Oudheden (Leiden)
(Rotterdam) 14, 2389 Nationaal Biermuseum De Boom 10, 14, 218, 221
Museum Bredius (The Hague) 12, 224 (Alkmaar) 185 Rijksmuseum Twenthe (Enschede)
Museum De Buitenplaats (Eelde- Nationaal Brandweermuseum 325
Paterswolde) 313 (Hellevoetsluis) 245 De Roode Toren (Doesburg) 346
Museum Catharijneconvent (Utrecht) Nationaal Glasmuseum (Leerdam) Scheepvaart Museum (Amsterdam)
13, 205, 206 244 69, 71, 1367
GENERAL INDEX 461
Museums and galleries (cont.) Muurhuizen (Amersfoort) 210 Neo-Gothic style 354
De Schippersbeurs (Elsoo) 383 Muziektheater (Amsterdam) 81, 150, Nes (Ameland) 15, 278
Singer Museum (Laren) 195 153 Nes (Amsterdam) 89, 90
Stadhuismuseum (Zierikzee) 256 My Domestic Companions (van Duyl Netherlands Board of Tourism (NBT)
Stedelijk Museum (Alkmaar) 185 Schwartze) 108 432, 433
Stedelijk Museum (Amsterdam) 12, New Years Eve 39
70, 122, 1323 N The Newly Built Town Hall on the River
Stedelijk Museum (Schiedam) 233 Naald van Waterloo 203 Amstel (van der Heyden) 93
Stedelijk Museum (Zutphen) 345 Naarden 194 Newspapers 149, 435
Stedelijk Museum Drenthes Veste Naardermeer 195 Ney, Laurent 136
(Coevorden) 315 Nagele 330 Nicolaas, St 89, 95
Stedelijk Museum Kampen 17, 321 Napoleon I, Emperor 43, 59, 97, 138 Nicolas, Joep 375
Stedelijk Museum Het Prinsenhof Nassau, Count Adolf of 292 Niemann, Gunda 304
(Delft) 14, 230, 232 Nassau, counts of 300 Nieuw Holland 171
Stedelijk Museum Zwolle 16, 320 Nassau, Prince Johan Maurits of 166, The Nieuwe Amsterdammer (magazine)
Stoomgemaal De Cruquius 224, 226 107
(Haarlemmermeer) 1923, 216 Nationaal Hunebedden Nieuwe Bouwen 167, 330
Stoommachinemuseum (Medemblik) Informatiecentrum (Borger) 311, 314 Nieuwe Hollandse Waterlinie 201, 244,
184 Nationaal Luchtvaart Themapark 349
Streekmuseum De Meestoof Aviodrome (Lelystadt) 331 Het Nieuwe Instituut (Rotterdam)
(St Annaland) 257 Nationaal Monument (Amsterdam) 12, 237
Tabaksteelt Museum (Amerongen) 89, 90 Nieuwe Kerk (Amsterdam) 12, 68, 90,
211 Nationaal Museum van Speelklok tot 424, 425
Terra Maris (near Domburg) 255 Pierement (Utrecht) 13, 207 street-by-street map 89
Teylers Museum (Haarlem) 14, 187, 189 National parks Nieuwe Kerk (Delft) 14, 231, 232
Thermenmuseum (Heerlen) 382 Drents-Friese Woud 295, 305, 315 Nieuwe Maas 26
Tromps Huys (Vlieland) 15, 277 Dwingelderveld 314 Nieuwe Pekela 293
Tropenmuseum (Amsterdam) 144 De Grote Peel 359, 372, 375 Nieuwe Waterweg 245, 256
Universiteitsmuseum (Utrecht) 207 De Hoge Veluwe 11, 17, 2667, 337, Nieuwe Zijde (Amsterdam) 8697
Us Heit Bierbrouwerij (Bolsward) 301 343 map 87
Van Abbemuseum (Eindhoven) 352, Landgoed De Hamert 374 street-by-street 889
368 Lauwersmeer 290 Nieuwendijk, hotels 401
Van Gogh Huis (Veenoord) 315 De Meinweg 375 Nieuwenhuis, Domela 59
Van Gogh Museum (Amsterdam) 12, Schiermonnikoog 279 Nieuwjaarsduik (Scheveningen) 39
70, 122, 13031 Zuid-Kennemerland 172 Nieuwkerken, MA and J 144
Veenkoloniaal Museum (Veendam) Nationale Molendag 36 Nieuwkoopse Lake 170
293 Nationale Vlootdagen (Den Helder) 37 Nieuwmarkt (Amsterdam) 77, 79
Veenpark (Barger-Compascuum) 315 NATO 63 Nieuwpoort 243
Velorama National Bicycle Museum La Natura larte del Numero (Merz) The Night Watch (Rembrandt) 55, 120,
(Nijmegen) 347 378 127, 128
Veluws Museum (Harderwijk) 341 Natural gas 275, 281, 292 Nijhoff, Martinus 369
Vermeer Centrum Delft 233 Naturalis Biodiversity Center (Leiden) Nijkerk 341
Verzetsmuseum (Amsterdam) 71, 145 221 Nijmeegse Kermis 38
Verzetsmuseum Friesland Nature camping 3945 Nijmegen 334, 335, 3467
(Leeuwarden) 300 Nature reserves festivals 38, 347, 348
Vincentre (Nuenen) 369 Botshol 200 hotels 401
Voerman Museum (Hattem) 340 dunes 172 restaurants 414
war museum (Fort Veldhuis, environmental policy 2645 Nijsinghuis (Eelde-Paterswolde) 313
Heemskerk) 192 De Manteling 255 Nijverdal 3245
Waterlandsmuseum de Speeltoren Naardermeer 195 NISA (Netherlands Institute for
(Monnickendam) 178 Oostvaardersplassen 332 Submarine Archaeology) 331
Werfmuseum t Kromhout Rottumeroog 279 Nisse 247, 258
(Amsterdam) 139 De Weerribben 16, 321 Noordbrabants Museum
Westfries Museum (Hoorn) 15, 182 Wilgenreservaat (Knardijk) 332 (s-Hertogenbosch) 363, 366
Zaans Museum (Zaanse Schans) 179 Natuuractiviteitcentrum De Weeribben Noordelijk Scheepvaartmuseum
Zeeuws Museum (Middelburg) 254 321 (Groningen) 287
Zepallon (Lelystad) 331 Natuurbeleidsplan 2645 Noorderhaaks 276
De Zeven Marken (Schoonoord) 310 Natuurhistorisch Museum (Maastricht) Noorderhaven (Harlingen) 296, 301
Zoutmuseum (Delden) 325 380 Noorderkerk (Amsterdam) 115
Zuiderzeemuseum (Enkhuizen) 11, Natuurinformatiecentrum Ommen Noordermarkt (Amsterdam) 115, 149
15, 167, 18081 324 Noordersluis (IJmuiden) 192
Music 4225 Neanderthals 46 Noordlaren, restaurants 413
Amsterdam 15051, 153 Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum Noordoostpolder 327, 330
church music 424, 425 (Utrecht) 205, 207 Noordwijk 213
festivals 36, 37, 38, 39 Het Nederlands restaurants 411
jazz 15051, 153, 424, 425 Stoommachinemuseum Noordwijk Space Expo 427
opera 150, 153, 424, 425 (Medemblik) 182 Norg 310, 312
orchestral, chamber and choir music Neeltje Jans 250, 251 hotels 400
4234, 425 Negen Bergen (Norg) 310, 312 North Brabant 35869
rock and pop 424, 425 Nehalennia 254 hotels 401
world music 15051, 153 NEMO Science Museum (Amsterdam) map 36061
Musicals 422, 425 71, 14041 restaurants 41415
462 GENERAL INDEX
Westerbork 314 William VI, Count of Holland 44, 244 World War II (cont.)
Westerkerk (Amsterdam) 12, 110, 114, William Frederick, Prince of Orange Verzetsmuseum Friesland
424, 425 203, 287 (Leeuwarden) 300
Westerkerk (Ekels) 114 William of Orange, Stadholder 45 Worms, Concordat of (1122) 43
Western Islands (Amsterdam) 115 assassination of 54, 230, 232
Western Netherlands 164259 Bourtange 293 Y
dunes 1723 Leiden 220 Yab Yum brothel (Amsterdam) 103
map 1667 mausoleum (Delft) 232 Yerseke 249, 258
North Holland 17495 Middelburg Abbey 254 festivals 37
The Randstad 17071 Ridderzaal (The Hague) 224 Youth hostels 388
reclaimed land 1689 St Janskerk (Gouda) 242, 243
South Holland 21245 statue of 231 Z
Utrecht (province) 196211 Willemstad 367 Zaan region 179
windmills 183 Willibrord, Bishop of Utrecht 43, 49, Zaandam 175, 179
Zeeland 24659 197, 206 hotels 397
Westerschouwen 256 The Windmill at Wijk (Ruisdael) 199 Zaanse Schans 176, 179
Westerwolde 281 Windmills 289, 1689, 183 Zadkine, Ossip 369
Westkapelle 255 Dokkum 301 De Verwoeste Stad 234
Whaling 136, 269, 279 De Gooyer Windmill (Amsterdam) Zak van Zuid-Beveland 258
Wheatfield and Crows (van Gogh) 131 1389 Zaltbommel 349
Wheelchair access see Disabled Kinderdijk 10, 212, 244, 245 Zandvoort 192
travellers Molenmuseum (Koog a/d Zaan) 179 restaurants 410
Widukind 48 National Windmill Day 36 Zeedijk (Amsterdam) 85
Wiedersma, Henrik 369 Schiedam 233 Zeegse, hotels 400
Wieringen 181 Tjaskermolen (Giethoorn) 322 Zeehondencrche (Pieterburen) 15, 291
Wierum 296 Zaanse Schans 176, 179 Zeeland 24659
Wieuwerd 303 Wine floods (1953) 21, 62, 247, 250, 256
Wijk bij Duurstede 211 in restaurants 403 hotels 398
Wijmarsche water mill (Arcen) 374 Zuid Limburg 384 map 2489
Wilde, Jacob de 102 Winschoten 292 restaurants 41112
Wilders, Geert 24, 63 Winter 39 Zeeland-Flanders 48, 259
Wildlife Winter Landscape with Skaters Zeeuws Archief (Middleburg) 252
dunes 173 (Avercamp) 126 Zeeuws Museum (Middelburg) 254
EcoMare (Texel) 427 Winterswijk 335, 346 Zeewolde 333
environmental policy 2645 Wit, Jacob de 93, 103, 118 Zeist, hotels 397
Gelderse Poort 348 Witchcraft 198, 201 De Zeven Provincin (ship) 262, 331
Hertenhouderij Edelveen (Kampen) Witt, Cornelis de 54, 224 Zierikzee 247, 256
321 Witt, Johan de 54 Zocher, JD and LP 124, 199, 203, 204, 211
Noorder Dierenpark (Emmen) 315 Witte Dame (Eindhoven) 368 Zomercarnaval (Rotterdam) 37
Northern and Eastern Netherlands Witte Huis (Rotterdam) 235 Zoos
2667 Witte Wieven 310 Apenheul Primate Park (Apeldoorn) 340
Zeehondencrche (Pieterburen) 15, 291 Woerden 201 Aqua Zoo Friesland (Leeuwarden)
see also Aquariums; Birds; Nature Wolvega 297 426, 427
reserves; Zoos Woman at her Toilet (Steen) 127 Artis Royal Zoo (Amsterdam) 1423
Wilgenreservaat (Knardijk) 332 Woman in Green (Picasso) 368 Blijdorp (Rotterdam) 236
Wilhelm II, Kaiser 62, 210 Women, Children, Animals (Appel) 193 Burgers Zoo (Arnhem) 344, 426, 427
Wilhelmina, Queen 45, 90, 222, 338, Workum 298, 302 Natuurpark Lelystad 331
347 World music 15051, 153 Noorder Dierenpark (Emmen) 315
Wilhelmina of Prussia 58 World Port Days (Rotterdam) 241 Ouwehands Dierenpark (Rhenen) 211
Willem I, Count of Holland 44 World War I 43, 62 Reptielenzoo Iguana (Vlissingen) 255
Willem I, Duke of Gelre and Gulik 44 World War II 25, 43, 62 see also Aquariums; Nature reserves
Willem-Alexander, King 45, 63, 93, 225, Airgunnersmonument (Dronten) 331 Zoutkamp 181, 290
299 American War Cemetery (Margraten) Zoutsloot (Harlingen) 301
birthday 36 385 Zuid Limburg 46, 3845
Willemstad 367 Anne Frank Huis (Amsterdam) 12, 70, farmhouses 28
Willemswerf (Rotterdam) 235 110, 11213 Zuid-Kennemerland National Park 172
Willet, Abraham, Museum Willet- Arnhem 344 Zuiderkerk (Amsterdam) 77, 82
Holthuysen (Amsterdam) 118 De Gedachenisruimte (Putten) 341 Zuiderzee 168, 175, 179, 203, 327, 330
William I, King 43, 45, 589 Groesbeek 348 Zuiderzeemuseum (Enkhuizen) 11, 15,
William II, Count of Holland 44, 50, 224 Groningen 286 16, 167, 18081
William II, King 45, 115, 203 Herinneringscentrum Kamp Zuidlaardermeer 313
William II, Stadholder 45, 55 Westerbork 314 Zuidlaren 307, 313
William III, King 45, 61, 291 Hotel de Wereld (Wageningen) 341 restaurants 413
William III, Stadholder (King of England) Kamp Amersfoort 210 Zuidoostbemster, hotels 397
45, 55, 58 Nationaal Monument (Amsterdam) Zuidplaspolder 26, 169
Paleis Het Loo (Apeldoorn) 263, 338, 340 89, 90 Zutphen 11, 17, 320, 335, 345
Paleis Sostdijk 203 Nijmegen 347 Zuylen, Belle van 200
William IV, Count of Holland 51 Oorlogs en Verzetsmuseum Zwanenbroedershuis
William IV, Stadholder 45, 58 (Overloon) 374 (s-Hertogenbosch) 363, 366
William the Silent see William of Park Clingendael (The Hague) 2289 Zwolle 11, 16, 17, 317, 320
Orange, Stadholder Rotterdam 234, 236 hotels 400
William V, Stadholder 45, 58, 224, 225 Verzetsmuseum (Amsterdam) 71, 145 restaurants 414
468 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following people for Willemien Werkman is a historian and, after studying
their help in preparing this guide: the history of the Vecht estates, has devoted herself to translation
and editing.
For Dorling Kindersley
Translation from Dutch Mark Cole (Linguists for Business) Additional Contributors
Design and Editorial Assistance Jo Cowen, Jacky Jackson, Ian Paul Andrews, Hedda Archbold, Christopher Catling, Jaap
Midson, Conrad van Dyk, Stewart Wild Deinema, Marlene Edmunds, Adam Hopkins, Marten van de
Dtp Designers Jason Little, Conrad van Dyk Kraats, David Lindsey, Fred Mawer, Alison Melvin, Robin Pascoe,
Managing Editor Helen Townsend Catherine Stebbings, Richard Widdows, Stewart Wild. Other
Publishing Manager Jane Ewart contributions were taken from the Eyewitness Travel Guide
Amsterdam by Robin Pascoe and Christopher Catling, which
For International Book Productions
previously appeared in a translated and revised edition (Capitool
Proofreader Maraya Radhua
Reisgids Amsterdam) published by de Redactie, boekverzorgers.
Main Author
Gerard M L Harmans graduated in biology and philosophy Additional Illustrations
at the Vrije Universiteit (Amsterdam), and then chose to work in Peter de Vries, Mark Jurrins, Hilbert Bolland, Gieb van Enckevort,
publishing. He edited an encyclopaedia for Het Spectrum before Armand Haye and Stuart Commercial Artists: Jan Egas and
setting up an independent business with Paul Krijnen in 1989 Khoobie Verwer.
called de Redactie, boekverzorgers.
Additional Photography
Other Contributors Max Alexander, Ian OLeary, John Whittaker.
All contributors were selected from de Redactie, boekverzorgers
Editorial and Design Assistance
in Amsterdam. The team of authors, translators and editors share
Louise Abbot, Willem de Blaauw, Frank Bontekoning, Lucinda
a broad field of expertise. Every member of the team made an
Cooke, Emer FitzGerald, Willem Gerritze, Martine Hauwert, Peter
invaluable contribution.
Koomen, Catherine Palmi, Ron Putto, Sadie Smith, Susana Smith,
Anneliet Bannier graduated in translation studies from
Inge Tijsmans, Sylvia Tombesi-Walton, Pascal Veeger, Erna de Voos,
Amsterdam University. She works as a translator and sub-editor
Willeke Vrij, Gerard van Vuuren, Martine Wiedemeijer.
on travel guides. She lives in Zaanstreek.
Hanneke Bos is an editor and translator in the fields of Picture Research
linguistics, cultural history and travel literature. Harry Bunk; Corine Koolstra; Dick Polman; de Redactie,
Jaap Deinema, from Eindhoven, is an expert on the boekverzorgers; Rachel Barber; Ellen Root.
Netherlands. He has made numerous contributions to travel
guides. He was responsible for the ATO/VVV edition Infopocket Revisions Team
Amsterdam. Tora Agarwala, Madhura Birdi, Willem de Blaauw, Neha Dhingra,
Jrme Gommers, born in Paris, is a freelance author and Sander Groen, Sumita Khatwani, Shikha Kulkarni, Phil Lee, Bhavika
lover of the Dutch landscape and its poetry. Among other things, Mathur, Avijit Sengupta, Azeem Siddiqui, Rituraj Singh, Rachel
he has conducted a comprehensive study of the construction and Thompson, Ajay Verma, Gerard van Vuuren.
development of the Noordoostpolder.
Ron de Heer studied philosophy in Amsterdam. For ten years Special Assistance
John Bekker; Wim ten Brinke; Bert Erwich; Niek Harmans; Frits
he has been working as a translator/editor, primarily of travel
Gommers; Hans Hoogendoorn; Cathelijne Hornstra; Petra van
guides, novels and culinary publications.
Hulsen; Frank Jacobs; Chris de Jong; Nina Krijnen; Mies Kuiper;
Marten van de Kraats writes and translates texts in the
fields of travel and automation. Every year he edits the Dutch Louise Lang; Frank van Lier; Bas de Melker; Miek Reusink; Dick Rog;
edition of the Rough Guide Travels on the internet, the best- Joske Siemons; Erika Teeuwisse; Wout Vuyk, Douglas Amrine.
selling internet book on Holland and Belgium. Picture Credits
Paul Krijnen is a social geographer who has specialized in t = top; tl = top left; tlc = top left centre; tc = top centre; tr = top
medieval mark organizations of the Netherlands, such as the right; trc = top right centre; c = centre; cl = centre left; cla = centre
Erfgooiers. His great passion is the Dutch borderlands. left above; clb = centre left below; ca = centre above; cr = centre
Frans Reusink studied Dutch language. After working as a right; cra = centre right above; crb = centre right below; bc =
copywriter, he has been active as a photographer, written travel bottom centre; b = bottom; bl = bottom left; br = bottom right.
reports for magazines, and edited travel guides. Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders.
Theo Scholten is a Dutch scholar. He has worked on many Dorling Kindersley apologizes for any unintentional omissions and
literary publications but is currently active in non-fiction as an
would be pleased, in such cases, to add an acknowledgment in
editor and translator. He has made previous contributions to travel
future editions.
guides on Belgium and France.
The publishers are grateful to the following museums,
Ernst Schreuder, a Frisian editor, won the Elfsteden Cross for photographers and picture libraries for permission to reproduce
completing the Tocht der Tochten in 1986 and 1997. Travel and
their photographs:
travel guides are his occupation and his hobby.
4corners images: SIME/ Pavan Aldo 151br; VAN Abbemuseum,
Catherine Smit studied Dutch language and literature at
Utrecht and has contributed as editor and translator to many Eindhoven: Pablo Picasso Lady in Green, 1909, 1999 c/o
books, including travel guides. Beeldrecht Amstelveen 364tl; AKG, London: 68bl, 105tr, 126ca,
Jacqueline Toscani graduated in European Studies from 221tr; Alamy Images: Stephen Barnes/Netherlands 447br; Tibor
Amsterdam University. Since 1992 she has been working as an Bognar 74; Bertrand Collet 405tl; Keith Erskine 150br; f1 online
editor and translator of travel guides, including many titles in 10bl; GAUTIER Stephane/SAGAPHOTO.CO 72cl; Hemis 86, 294;
the Capitool and Marco Polo series. In the latest series she was Peter Horree 306, 423tr; Horizons WWP 14tr; Joana Kruse 16br,
co-author of the Vakantieplanner (holiday planner). 196; frans lemmens 17bc, 246, 260-1, 326, 371; LH Images 125bl;
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 469
David Noble 15tr; David Noton Photography 212; Ingolf Pompe 2 357bc, 359b, 362bl, 366tr, 367tr, 368c, 369bc, 375c, 376bl, 380cr,
152bl; PjrTravel 13tr; Peter Scholey 72clb; Paul M Thompson 368bl. 384br, 390tl, 395tr, 402cl, 438cra, 438bl, 440bl; Drents Museum,
Alamy Stock Photo: Mieneke Andeweg-van Rijn 180bl, Assen: 46br, 312bl, Badende kinderen bij stroompje c.1935 von
Timewatch Images 245tr. Algemeen Rijksarchief, The Hague: Duelman-Krumpelmann 315br; Dro-vorm: Mirande
61cra; Amsterdam Tourism & Convention Board: 111br, 114tl, Phernambucq 146cla, 147br.
432br, 447cl; Amsterdams Historisch Museum: 51cra, 51crb,
68-69c, 69bl, 70cla, 96tl, 96cl, 96bc, 97tl, 97crb, 97cr, 97br, 114b, Robert Eckhardt: 292bl, 372c; Eetbar Dit: 402br; Efteling
118bl; AFF/Anne Frank foundation, amsterdam: 112cl, 112b, Village Bosrijk: 392cla; Joop van de Ende Producties: 420br;
113br, 113cr (Miep Gies); ANP: 21b, 76tr, 139tl, 63cra; ANWB Escher in Het Paleis, The Hague: 222cla; Mary Evans Picture
audiovisuele dienst: 27tr, 34clb, 39br, 52bl, 63tl, 142br, 167tr, Library: 44bc.Gert Fopma: 275br, 277bl; Foto Natura: 168bl
170bl, 170br, 171b, 172bl, 173bl, 184bl, 189b, 192tl, 192bl, 195tl, (B van Biezen), 295b (J Vermeer), 313tr and 314tc (F de Nooyer),
211tc, 211br, 214tr, 224c, 228t, 228br, 234tr, 234bl, 236br, 243tr, 332t (J Sleurink); Fotolia: Jenifoto 98; Frans Hals Museum,
249tr, 253br, 255tr, 255c, 255bc, 256bc, 257tl, 283tr, 293br, 319br, Haarlem: 69tc, 190tr, 190cl, 190br, 191tl, 191tr, 191br, 191bl;
336tr, 342clb, 357bl, 364tr, 365cra, 365crb, 381br, 382cr, 394cla,
394b, 432cla, 432clb, 434cr, 434bc, 435tr, 436c, 439c; Gemeentearchief Amsterdam: 103tl, 103cl, 104clb, 105br,
archeologisch instituut vu/f kortlang, amsterdam: 46-47c; 106bl, 107tr, 107cr, 109r, 109tr, 109cr; Gemeentemuseum, The
The Art Archive: Museo del Prado Madrid The Surrender of Breda Hague: Piet Mondrian/Holtzman Trust Victory Boogie-Woogie
(1635) Diego Velazquez 367br; Atlas Van Stolk: 45clb, 51bl, 52br, (unfinished), 1942-44, 1999 c/o Beeldrecht Amstelveen 228cl;
56-57c, 57tl, 57cr, 58cl, 59tl. BADHU: 410bl; Balthazars Keuken: Getty Images: altrendo travel 316 Hans Georg Eiben/The Image
407tr; B&U international picture service: 105bl, 109br, 167br, Bank 386-7; Vincent Jannink 347bl; Frans Lemmens/The Image
216cla; aart de bakker: 353tr, 353br, 374tr, 377tc, 377cra, 380tr, Bank 174; Martin Rose 152cr. Groninger Museum, Groningen:
416cla; bonnefantenmuseum, maastricht: 378tr, 378cl, 378bl, 261tr, 288cl, 288cb, 289tl, 289cr, 289bl.Tom Haartsen, J
Rene Daniels Platte Gronden, 1986, 1999 c/o Beeldrecht Holtkamp collection: 32br, 32-33c; Vanessa Hamilton: 105c;
Amstelveen 378br; 379tl, 379cra, 379bl, 379br; henk brandsen: Harbour Crane: 389tl; Robert Harding Picture Library: age
49bc, 310cla, 311tl, 311tr, 311ca; bridgeman art library: Christies fotostock 14br, 134; Ashley Cooper 171tc; Image Broker 16tr; Ingolf
London, Grote Markt, Haarlem; Private collection Self-portrait Pompe/LOOK 120; Roy Rainford 20; Martine Hauwert: 439tl; Jan
Kazimir Malevitch 133br; Bries Noordwijk: 411tr; Quinta Buma: Den Hengst: 95br; Herberg Onder de Linden: 412tc; Het
38t; Harry Bunk: 37cl, 72tr, 142clb, 143bl, 143br, 147tl, 206b, Arresthuis: 388cr; Hollandse Hoogte: 307b, 420t; P.
Ossip Zadkine De verwoeste stad 1947, 1999 c/o Beeldrecht Babeliowsky 299tl, 299cra; G Dubbelman 300bc; B. van Flymen
Amstelveen 234cl; 235cra, 235crb, 235bc, 241cr, Mari Andriessen 36br, 304cra, 304bl; Vincent van den Hoogen 368cr; Rob Huibers
Cornelius Lely, 1983, 1999 c/o Beeldrecht Amstelveen 330bc, 417bl, 210br; Jaco Klamer 321c; M. Kooren 22bl, 22tl, 39tr, 45cro, 45br,
438cl, 440c; Cees Buys: 27tl, 51ca, 248bc, 284clb, 287c, 291b, 303c, 63bc; M. Pellanders 63br; Berry Stokvis 185bc; Lex Verspeek 182bl;
308cla, 319cr, 321t, 324tl, 325tr, 325bl, 329tr, 329cr, 343br, 371b, G. Wessel 278tl, 298clb, 299br; Hortus Botanicus, Leiden:
385cra, 392clb; George Burggraaff: 22t, 25bl, 32tr, 36cr, 36bl, 46cl, 218cla; Hotel Droog: 396bc; Hotel Modez: 400tc; Hotelsuites.nl:
172tr, 172cla, 193tl, 201ca, 204cla, 220tr, 241tl, 250tr, 250br, 253crb, 401bc; Hulton Getty Collection: 70t.
258tr, 259tr, 259br, 262cr, 264clb, 265cra, 265br, 282br, 301cr, 305cl,
318cl, 321br, 322ca, 322cl, 323cr, 323br, 329br, 337bl, 340br, 347bl, Iconografisch Bureau: 107tl; Internationaal
347tr, 349br, 357tl, 357tr, 362br, 365ca. Bloembollencentrum: 35cr, 216br, 217tr, 217clb, 217cl, 217cla,
Catharijneconvent, Utrecht: 49cra, 54bl, 56tr, 205cra, 355tl; 217bl; Internationaal Instituut Voor Sociale Geschiedenis,
Centraal Museum, Utrecht: Ernst Moritz 206br; 208cla, 208tr, Amsterdam: 59crb. Wim Janszen: 262cl, 266cl, 270cl; Wubbe
209tr, 209br; Cleveland Museum, Cleveland: 54-55c; Cobra de Jong: 63clb, 113tl; Joods Historisch Museum, Amsterdam:
Museum, Amstelveen: Karel Appel Foundation, Karel Appel 71br; De Jopenkerk: 409tr; Jopie Huisman Museum,
Questioning Children 1949, 1999 c/o Beeldrecht Amstelveen Workum: 302cla.
193br. Het Concert Gebouw: Hans Samson 150cla; Corbis:
Arcaid/ Alex Bartel 152tr; Dave Bartruff 404cl; Owen Franken 405c; Hugo Kaagman: Hugo Kaagman Delft blue plane-tail
Frans Lemmens 268; Jean-Pierre Lescourret 64-5, 81bl; Koen Van decoration 1996-1997, 1999 c/o Beeldrecht Amstelveen 33tr;
Weel/epa 350-1. Jan Derwig: 103tr, 145bl; Dreamstime.com: Anne Kalkhoven: 287bl, 315tr, 348tl; Jan Van De Kam: 23b, 41tr,
Ak4masforest 145tr; Gunold Brunbauer 180tr, 180c; Rob Van Esch 41cra, 41crb, 41br, 173tr, 173cb, 173crb, 264cl, 264bc, 265tr, 265cr,
38cr, 358; Patricia Hofmeester 34-5; Peter De Kievith 69cb; 266cla, 266cra, 266br, 266bl, 267tl, 267cla, 267cra, 267tr, 267crb,
Ldambies 164-5; Ber Lybil 2-3; Mauvries 45br; Miv123; Neirfy 430-1; 267cr, 267br, 272tr, 273tl, 273tc, 273tr, 273cr, 273crb, 273bc, 273clb,
Richardt777 12bc; Robertlindeboom 280; Richard Semik 13bl; 273bl, 273br, 273tl, 273tr, 273clb, 273bl, 274br, 275cra, 275cra, 277tr,
Pieter Snijder 334; Teo Stuivenberg 210bl; TasFoto 341tr; Dennis Van 278br, 282cl, 297tr, 318br, 332c, 332br, 346tl, 352br, 354tr, 354cla,
De Water 17tr; Rudmer Zwerver 170tr; Jurjen Drenth: 32cla, 34lb, 354clb, 354br, 354-355c, 355tr, 355crb, 355bl, 362tr, 362cla, 363ca,
39bl, 47crb, 57bl, 71tr, 72cla, 72br, 73cra, 73cr, 73tr, 78b, 90tr, 112tr, 363cr, 369cl, 372cla, 373tr, 375bl, Joep Nicolas, Pieke 1995-1996,
122tr, 390br, 403c, Hildo Krop Berlage, 1999 c/o Beeldrecht 1999 c/o Beeldrecht Amstelveen 376tr; 376cla, 376br, 377br, Mari
Amstelveen 146bl; 148cl, 149cr, 151tr, 164/165, 167 tr, 170cl, 170- Andriessen Maastreechter Gees 1961-1962, 1999 c/o Beeldrecht
171c, 173br, 175b, 177cr, 178bl, 196, 197b, 198clb, 200bl, 201b, Amstelveen 380bl, 381cl, 382bl, 383cr, 384tc, 384cla, 384crb, 385bc;
202cl, 202br, 203br, 204bl, 205bc, 207tl, 213b, 214cla, 214clb, Klompenmusuem: 313bl; S Koninklijke Bibliotheek, The
217clb, 223cr, Peter Struycken Lichtkunstwerk NAI 1994, 1999 Hague: 56cl; Koninklijk Instituut voor de Tropen,
c/o Beeldrecht Amstelveen 237tl; 240tr, 241tr, 241br, 244tc, 247b, Amsterdam: 60tr, 60-61c; Koninklijk Paleis, Amsterdam/RVD:
250bc, 251br, 253tl, 256tl, 256cr, 263crb, 267bl, 270tr, 270br, 271tl, 69cr, 92cla, 92clb, 93crb; Corine Koolstra: Suze Boschma-
271br, 274-275c, 276cra, 279br, 281b, 286b, 288tr, 288clb, 290tr, Berkhout Bartje, 1999 c/o Beeldrecht Amstelveen 312c; Peter
291tr, 296tr, 296br, 301tc, 303tr, 308b, 309cr, 311cra, 314bl, 317b, Koomen: 182cr; Ren Krekels, Nijmegen: 27crb; Krller-
324br, 327b, 328clb, 342cla, 345tl, 349tl, 352cla, 356cl, 356bl, 357cr, mller Museum, Otterlo: Jean Dubuffet Jardin dmail 1973-
470 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
4, 1999 c/o Beeldrecht Amstelveen 342tr; 342br, 343c. 195bl; Sint-jan, Den Bosch:E Van Mackelenbergh 364cla, 364bc,
Andries de la Lande Cremer: 269b, 282tr; Leeuwarder Courant: 365tl; Spaarnestad Fotoarchief: 59tr, 61bc, 62clb, 62br, 63tc,
Niels Westra 298bl; Frans Lemmens: 34c; Claude Lvesque: 356- 103bc, 147bl; Spoorwegmuseum, Utrecht: 205crb; Stedelijk
357c; De Librije: 414tc; Lucius Seafood Restaurant: 406bc. Museum, Amsterdam: Gerrit Rietveld Steltman chair 1963,
1999 c/o Beeldrecht Amstelveen 70bl; 132tr, Marc Chagall
Marker Wadden: 168br; Mauritshuis, The Hague: 8-9, 226tr, Portrait of the Artist with Seven Fingers 1912, 1999 c/o Beeldrecht
226c, 226bl, 227tc, 227crb, 227cra, 227bc, 231tl; Multatuli Museum, Amstelveen 132cla; Gerrit Rietveld Red Blue Chair c.1918, 1999
Amsterdam: 61tr; Muse de la Chartreuse, Douai: 54clb; c/o Beeldrecht Amstelveen 132bl; Piet Mondrian/Holtzman Trust
Museum Boerhaave, Leiden: 54bc, 55tl, 55clb; Museum Composition in Red, Black, Blue, Yellow and Grey 1920, 1999 c/o
Beeldrecht Amstelveen 132br; 133tl, Karel Appel Foundation
Boijmans-van Beuningen, Rotterdam: Hubert van Eyck, Three
Marys at the Tomb, 1425-1435, Acquired with the collection of D.G. Man and Animals 1949, 1999 c/o Beeldrecht Amstelveen 133ca;
van Beuningen 1958, Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen 238cla, Jasper Johns Untitled 1965, 1999 c/o Beeldrecht Amstelveen
133bc; 133br, Tanzende 1911 Ernst Ludwig Kirchner 133tl;
238-9 all; Museum Bredius, The Hague: 224bl; Museum
Stedelijk Museum De Lakenhal, Leiden: 50cl, 108br, 220b;
Lambert van Meerten, Delft: 233bl; Museum de Fundatie,
Paleis a/d Blijmarkt: Gerlinde Schrijver 320bl; Museum Nairac, Stedelijk Museum, Zwolle: 320tr; Stempels: 389bc, 397tc;
Barneveld: 341br; Museum Het Rembrandthuis, Amsterdam: Stichting Leidens Ontzet: 39tl; Stichting
79bc, 82br; Museum Schokland: 330tr, 330cra. Natura Artis Paardenreddingboot Ameland: 279t; Stichting Vesting
Magistra: 143cra; Nederlands Architectuur Instituut: 109cl, 146- Bourtange: 293tr; Stichting4-Stromenland, Tiel: 38bl; Studio
147c; Nederlands Scheepvaartmuseum, Amsterdam: 136bl, Putto, Derijp: 22bl, 24c, 37tr, 45bl, 45crb, 48br, 88tr, 117bl, 177tr,
136cla, 137b, 137crb, 137t; Nemo Science Museum: DigiDaan 177cr; Studiopress: Guy van Grinsven 178tr.
140tr, 140cla, 140clb, 140br; Niederschsische Staats- und
Tony Stone Images: 104tr, 183cla; Sven Torfinn: 363tl, 363br;
Universittsbibliothek, Gttingen: 48-49c; Flip de Nooyer: 272-
TPG Nederland: 440crb, 441bc; Hans Tulleners: 103cr, 104cr,
273c; North Sea Jazz Festival/rob Drexhage: 37br. Onze-lieve-
106c. Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam: 70br, 130cla, 130clb,
vrouwebasiliek, Maastricht: 381tr. Paleis Het Loo, Nationaal
131t, 131tr, 131cr; Gerard op het Veld: 34tr, 146c, 302tr, 340cra,
Museum, Apeldoorn: E. Boeijinga 338tr; A. Meine Jansen 338cla, 345bl, 346br, 360bl, 369tr, 372bl, 373br, 375tr, 383tr, 383bl;
339tl, 338bl; R. Mulder 338cla; Openbare Bibliotheek Amsterdam: Vereniging De Friesche Elf Steden 296br; Govert Vetten: 22tr,
441tl; De Paviljoens, Almere: Robert Morris Observatorium, 73bl, 83br, 124clb, 146-147c, 199br, 200tr, 264cla, 416c, 428br; de
1977, 1999 c/o Beeldrecht Amstelveen 333br; Paul Paris: 28tr, 71bl, Verkadefabriek: 415br; Villa Augustus: 398tl; Volkskrant: Wim
172-173c, 173tl, 194br, 198tr, 249br, 257br, 267cl, 272cla, 283cra, 286tr, Ruigrok 26tr; Sietske de Vries, Amsterdam: 34cl; Willeke Vrij:
290clb, 292tr, 297bc, 303br, 305br, 309tr, 310clb, 311br, 335b, 352bl, 35tr. Wacon-Images/Ronald Dendekker: 151tl; Waalse Kerk:
372tr; Dick Polman: 278c; Robert Poutsma: 24bl, 71tl, 146tr, 146br, 76cl. Pim Westerweel: 166cr, 167cr, 168crb, 199cra, 263cra, 263b,
147tr, 147cr, 148cr, 148br, 166cl, 179tl, 344cr, 416br, 417tl, 418c; 266clb, 333tr, 345cr, 353cr, 366bl; West-Fries Museum, Hoorn:
Prinsenhof: 399bc; Projectbureau Ijburg: 171t; PTT 60cla. Zeeuws Museum, Middelburg: Anda van Riet 254br
254cra; Zuiderzeemuseum, Enkhuizen: 169tr, photo Petra
Range Pictures: 52cla; Herman Reis: 23c, 24c, 25tr, 29cl, 56bl, Stavast Hugo Kaagman The Blue Fishvendor (www.kaagman.nl)
215br, 240b, 241tr, 274cla, 276br, 315cl, 323bl, Rijksmuseum, stencils and spraypaint 181tl.
Amsterdam: 30tr, 30cl, 30bl, 30-31c, 31tr, 31cr, 31bl, 42, 44tr, 57t,
57crb, 61tl, 68cla, 70c, 126cl, 126bc, 127tl, 127c, 127br, 128tr, 128bl, Front endpaper
129tr, 129b, 199bl; Rijksmuseum Muiderslot, Muiden: 55cr; Alamy Images: Hemis Rtc; Peter Horree Rc; Joana Kruse Lcl; frans
Rijksmuseum van Oudheden, Leiden: 46clb, 47tl, 47bc, 48bc, lemmens Rcr, Rbl, Lbl; David Noton Photography Lc. Corbis: Frans
48crb, 218tr; Rijksmuseum voor Volkenkunde, Leiden: 60bl, Lemmens Ltc; Jean-Pierre Lescourret Ltl. Dreamstime.com: Rob
61crb; Rijkswaterstaat: 250clb, 251tl, 251cr, 276tl; La Rive: 408bl. Van Esch Lbr; Robertlindeboom Rtr; Pieter Snijder Rclb. Getty
Images: altrendo travel Rcb; The Image Bank/Frans Lemmens Ltr.
Herman Scholten: 29bl, 176cla, 179bl, 182tl, 184ca, 194tl, 199tr,
203tr, 206cla, 210tr, 235tc, 244b, 250cla, 252tr, 252bl, 253cra, 258c, Cover
258bl, 262b, 284cla, 284b, 285br, 287tr, 296clb, 300tr, 300cl, 328tr, Front and spine - Corbis: SOPA RF / SOPA.
360tr, 361tr; 377bc, 382tl; Schoolmuseum, Rotterdam/Wolters-
noordhoff, Groningen: 50-51c, 53tl, 58-59c; Science Center All other images Dorling Kindersley.
NEMO: 141br, 141cra; Singer Museum: Particuliere Collection For further information see: www.dkimages.com
Phrase Book
In Emergency Making a Telephone Call
Help! Help! Help Id like to place Ik wil graag Ik vhil ghraakh
Stop! Stop! Stop a long-distance call interlokaal inter-loh-kaahl
Call a doctor Haal een dokter Haal uhn dok-tur telefoneren tay-luh-foe-neh-ruh
Call an ambulance Bel een Bell uhn ahm-bew- Id like to call Ik wil collect Ik vhil collect call
ambulance luhns-uh collect call bellen bel-luh
Call the police Roep de politie Roop duh poe-leet- Ill try again later Ik probeer het Ik pro-beer het laater
see later nog wel eens nokh vhel ayns
Call the fire brigade Roep de Roop duh brahnt- Can I leave a Kunt u een Kuhnt ew uhn boat-
brandweer vheer message? boodschap skhahp dohr-ghay-
Where is the Waar is de Vhaar iss duh doorgeven? vuh
nearest telephone? dichtstbijzijnde dikhst-baiy-zaiyn- Could you speak Wilt u wat harder Vhilt ew vhat hahr-
telefoon? duh tay-luh-foan up a little please? praten? der praah-tuh
Where is the Waar is het Vhaar iss het Local call Lokaal gesprek Low-kaahl ghuh-
nearest hospital? dichtstbijzijnde dikhst-baiy-zaiyn- sprek
ziekenhuis? duh zee-kuh-houws
Shopping
Communication Essentials How much does Hoeveel kost dit? Hoo-vayl kost dit
Yes Ja Yaa this cost?
No Nee Nay I would like Ik wil graag Ik vhil ghraakh
Please Alstublieft Ahls-tew-bleeft Do you have? Heeft u? Hayft ew
Thank you Dank u Dahnk-ew Im just looking Ik kijk alleen even Ik kaiyk alleyn ay-
Excuse me Pardon Pahr-don vuh
Hello Hallo Hallo Do you take credit Neemt u credit Naymt ew credit
Goodbye Dag Dahgh cards? cards aan? cards aan
Good night Slaap lekker Slaap lek-kah Do you take Neemt u Naymt ew raiys-
morning Morgen Mor-ghuh travellers cheques? reischeques aan? sheks aan
afternoon Middag Mid-dahgh What time do you Hoe laat gaat u Hoo laat ghaat ew
evening Avond Ah-vohnd open? open? opuh
yesterday Gisteren Ghis-tern What time do you Hoe laat gaat u Hoo laat ghaat ew
today Vandaag Vahn-daagh close? dicht? dikht
tomorrow Morgen Mor-ghuh This one Deze Day-zuh
here Hier Heer That one Die Dee
there Daar Daar expensive duur dewr
What? Wat? Vhat cheap goedkoop ghoot-koap
When? Wanneer? Vhan-eer size maat maat
Why? Waarom? Vhaar-om white wit vhit
Where? Waar? Vhaar black zwart zvhahrt
How? Hoe? Hoo red rood roat
yellow geel ghayl
Useful Phrases green groen ghroon
blue blauw blah-ew
How are you? Hoe gaat het Hoo ghaat het
ermee? er-may
Very well, thank you Heel goed, dank u Hayl ghoot, Types of Shops
dahnk ew antique shop antiekwinkel ahn-teek-vhin-kul
How do you do? Hoe maakt u het? Hoo maakt ew het bakery bakker bah-ker
See you soon Tot ziens Tot zeens bank bank bahnk
Thats fine Prima Pree-mah bookshop boekwinkel book-vhin-kul
Where is/are? Waar is/zijn? Vhaar iss/zayn butcher slager slaakh-er
How far is it to? Hoe ver is Hoo vehr iss cake shop banketbakkerij bahnk-et-bahk-er-aiy
het naar? het naar cheese shop kaaswinkel kaas-vhin-kul
How do I get to? Hoe kom ik naar? Hoo kom ik naar chip shop patatzaak pah-taht-zaak
Do you speak Spreekt u engels? Spraykt ew eng-uhls chemist (dispensing) apotheek ah-poe-taiyk
English? delicatessen delicatessen daylee-kah-tes-suh
I dont understand Ik snap het niet Ik snahp het neet department store warenhuis vhaar-uh-houws
Could you speak Kunt u langzamer Kuhnt ew lahng- fishmonger viswinkel viss-vhin-kul
slowly? praten? zahmer praa-tuh greengrocer groenteboer ghroon-tuh-boor
Im sorry Sorry Sorry hairdresser kapper kah-per
market markt mahrkt
Useful Words newsagent krantenwinkel krahn-tuh-vhin-kul
post office postkantoor pohst-kahn-tor
big groot ghroaht shoe shop schoenenwinkel sghoo-nuh-vhin-kul
small klein klaiyn supermarket supermarkt sew-per-mahrkt
hot warm vharm tobacconist sigarenwinkel see-ghaa-ruh-
cold koud khowt vhin-kul
good goed ghoot travel agent reisburo raiys-bew-roa
bad slecht slekht
enough genoeg ghuh-noohkh
well goed ghoot Sightseeing
open open open art gallery gallerie ghaller-ee
closed gesloten ghuh-slow-tuh bus station busstation buhs-stah-shown
left links links bus ticket strippenkaart strip-puh-kaahrt
right rechts rekhts cathedral kathedraal kah-tuh-draal
straight on rechtdoor rehkht dohr church kerk kehrk
near dichtbij dikht baiy closed on public op feestdagen op fayst-daa-ghuh
far ver weg vehr vhekh holidays gesloten ghuh-slow-tuh
up omhoog om-hoakh day return dagretour dahgh-ruh-tour
down naar beneden naar buh-nay-duh garden tuin touwn
early vroeg vroohkh library bibliotheek bee-bee-yo-tayk
late laat laat museum museum mew-zay-uhm
entrance ingang in-ghahng railway station station stah-shown
exit uitgang ouht-ghang return ticket retourtje ruh-tour-tyuh
toilet wc vhay say single journey enkeltje eng-kuhl-tyuh
occupied bezet buh-zett tourist information VVV fay fay fay
free (unoccupied) vrij vraiy town hall stadhuis staht-houws
free (no charge) gratis ghraah-tiss train trein traiyn
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